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Bristol, Bath & South West | Issue 33 | November 2010

RACHEL ALLEN At home with the Irish cooking Queen

£3 (Where sold)

WIN! Tickets to the BBC Good Food Winter Show!

‘F’ FOR FABULOUS

Ramsay’s visit to Portishead

Beautiful Game Best of British as you’ve never seen it before

www.flavourmagazine.com


Autumn Menu Starters Baked camembert with slow-roasted garlic, oils & baguette (great to share) (V) Bowl of soup of the day with freshly baked baguette Whisky drenched Cornish scallops with creamed spinach & pancetta Pheasant breast with braised baby beetroots & red wine reduction Butter poached tiger prawns on a fondue of leeks with Mrs Kirkham’s cheese

Our Classics West-country beef burger with mozzarella, chips & tomato salsa Pork & Young’s ale bangers with mashed potato, Savoy cabbage & port gravy Beer-battered cod fillet with chips, mushy peas & tartar sauce Gloucester ham, free-range eggs, chips & salad Thai red curry of butternut squash, peppers & beans with jasmine rice (V)

Main Courses Salmon & haddock fishcake with chips, salad, poached egg & tartar sauce Free-range Somerset pork belly & tiger prawns with carrot puree, green beans, mashed potato and Madeira sauce Loin of wild Scottish highland venison with fondant potato, curly kale and port & elderberry sauce Butternut squash, wild mushroom & ale pie with mashed potato and Savoy cabbage (V) Gressingham duck cooked 2-ways (confit leg & pan fried breast) with garden thyme mashed potato, braised red cabbage & red wine jus Classic beef Bourguignon with grain mustard mashed potato & braised red cabbage Cornish “stargazy” pie of prawns, scallops, smoked haddock & cod with Norfolk royal potatoes & seasonal vegetables Breast of free-range chicken wrapped in pancetta with black pudding, pomme anna and creamed Savoy cabbage Slow-braised bath chaps with parsnip mash, fondant potato & curly kale Wild game pie of venison, pheasant & wood pigeon with chips and seasonal vegetables

Side Orders Chips New Potatoes Side Salad Seasonal Vegetables

welcome to the

White Hart Welcome to a picturesque 17th Century farmhouse where the modern British cuisine is matched only by the quality of service. We like to do things we’re passionate about at The White Hart, so whether it’s wine, real ales, meat, game or fish, you can be assured that the greatest of care has been taken in selection and preparation. We think you’ll notice and appreciate the attention to detail, but why not come to find out for yourself this autumn? White Hart | Littleton-on-Severn | Bristol | BS35 1NR tel: 01454 412275 | www.whitehartbristol.com


Editor: Holly Aurelius-Haddock Email: holly@flavourmagazine.com Deputy Editor: Faye Allen Email: faye@flavourmagazine.com

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Art Director: Chris Jones Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising: Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com

welcome

Photography: Misha Gupta, Daniel Hewison, Jeni Meade, James Walker Contributors: Stuart Ash, Martin Blunos, Siân Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nathan Budd, Helen Aurelius-Haddock, Sarah Hurn, Rebecca Gooch, Duncan Shine, Ron Faulkner, Clare Morris and Rebecca Sullivan.

Welcome to the November issue of flavour!

Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 01179 779188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Please send any comments or suggestions to the publisher at the above address. For general enquiries: Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com

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For competition entries: Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2010 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 01179 779188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize. Please recycle this product.

Someone asked me recently whether we struggle to find new and exciting things to talk about every month. Nothing could be further from the truth! In reality, the South West continues to offer us so much new material we struggle to squeeze it all in. As we celebrate our third birthday this month and sign off another jam-packed issue, we hope our long-standing readers will agree. We’ve found a kindred spirit in Better Food Company founder and Bristol food hero Phil Haughton on PAGE 12, who couldn’t be a better advocate for the great producers in the region.

contents 6 In Season Tom Bowles and Stuart Ash cook up the best of the season 20 WIN!  Tickets to the BBC Good Food Winter Show! 34 Beautiful Game Best of British as you’ve never seen it before

Inevitably our thoughts turn this month to the ‘C’ word. If you’re in charge of the menu over the festive season then check out the inspired ideas from Anjum Anand on PAGE 15 and Rachel Allen on PAGE 66. We guarantee you’ll learn a thing or two about easy entertaining! If however, acting the Domestic Goddess (or indeed God) doesn’t fill you with much Christmas cheer and you’d rather others do all the hard work, then our Festive Food & Drink Guide supplement this month is right up your street. We hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed making it. Happy Eating!

59 ‘F’ for fabulous Ramsay’s visit to Portishead 66 Rachel Allen At home with the Irish cooking Queen

Holly Aurelius-Haddock


> flavour news

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@ flavourmagazine.com

HAPPY rd

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BIRTHDAY flavour

To celebrate, we’re giving away 10 pairs of tickets to the Good Food Show Winter – turn to page 20 to find out more...

this month the winds of change The Soil Association has appointed Helen Browning as its new Director. She takes over from Patrick Holden who stood down in September this year following 15 years in the role. Helen Browning runs a tenanted 1,350 acre organic livestock and arable farm in Wiltshire, which supplies organic meat to multiple retailers. She is currently Director of External Affairs at the National Trust and is also Chair of the Food Ethics Council.

Great Western Wine’s Portfolio Tasting Sample over 100 wines at Great Western Wine’s annual Portfolio Tasting this month, where you’ll taste some of the world’s best wines from boutique estates around the globe. To help you find your way round, the wines are set up by style, and a team of enthusiastic wine lovers will be on hand to answer your questions.

Helen said:
“Leading the Soil Association is a compelling, exciting and important challenge. No other role would have drawn me from the National Trust. But it is crucial to reconcile food production with care for the health and vitality of people, wildlife, farm animals and our countryside, and the Soil Association is the best-placed organisation to provide much-needed practical solutions.” Helen will take up the post in early spring.



The event takes place on 11 November in The Assembly Rooms. Tickets cost £20 and are refundable on any purchase of 12+ bottles on the evening.

Green Park Christmas Market Running for a second year in a row, Green Park Station in Bath will be putting on a Christmas Market for all its foodie visitors! Included amongst the fantastic fare on offer is… The Thoughtful Bread Company, whose passion for all things local and delicious sets it head and shoulders above the competition. www.thethoughtfulbreadcompany.com PJ’s Farm rears the rare breed British Lop pig. Selling at the market every Saturday, their pork has been labelled as ‘a revelation.’ www.pjs-farm.co.uk Providing original, personal cakes which taste great is the simple ethos behind the Bath Cake Company. Worth a visit whether you want a cake for a special occasion or a simply delicious brownie on a Saturday morning. www.bathcakecompany.co.uk 2-24 December, 9am – 5pm, late night every Thursday until 7pm.

www.greatwesternwine.co.uk

winners Congratulations to Rachel Brastock from Bradley Stoke who won a selection box from South Devon Chilli Farm! 4

Congratulations to Raymond Rose from North Somerset who won a meal for two at Lusty Glaze in Cornwall!


> flavour news

POETRY IN MOTION Thanks to A.A. Aberhams for sending this poem in which put a smile on everyone’s face here at flavour HQ!

Some folks like a bistro, some like grand hotels. Others prefer a country pub after a stroll in Wells. So, whether you be a “Mendip Man” or live in Portishead, there are a few things which I suggest that you keep tucked away in your head. If you’re looking for a meal for two, when she can wear that new dress, Really push the boat out with that someone to impress, There’s one thing you should do right now and from this you shouldn’t waiver, Before you begin your enterprise – read this month’s copy of flavour.

To sample chocolates served in the country’s top Michelin restaurants, visit www.damianallsop.com

Clifton Village Christmas 


CALORIE CONFUSION Nutritionists are now saying that the calorie content of items in our shopping baskets could be up to 25 per cent out. This is because the texture of the food, its fibre content, and how it is cooked can all affect the amount of energy the body is able to get from food. The UN Food and Agriculture Organization have looked at the issue in the past however and decided that changing the way calories are calculated would need huge upheaval and lots of money – all for what they believe to be a marginal gain.

It’s harvest time at Thatchers

Come to Clifton Village on Saturday 11th December when, in addition to doing your Christmas shopping in the unique atmosphere of the independent shops and bistros in Clifton you can enjoy: Christmas music played by Filton Concert Brass, a hog roast, turkey rolls, mulled wine, face painting, carol singing and traditional fairground sideshows. From boutiques to fine dining, Clifton village is the place to be this Christmas!

A GIFT FOR EVERY SEASON Do you know a garden lover or someone who simply enjoys days out in stunning surroundings? Then treat them to an RHS gift membership this Christmas for just £49 a year. Gardens bursting with colour, oneto-one gardening advice, discounted tickets to RHS shows,The Garden monthly magazine – they’re all part of one ongoing gift that will inspire and delight every day of the year. Membership includes unlimited entry to RHS Garden Rosemoor, an enchanting 65 acre oasis in rural Devon. It’s a tranquil, truly special place to get gardening inspiration, soak up the surroundings or relax with a cream tea, and members can get discounted rates at our holiday cottages. Buy RHS gift membership by 13 December and we’ll treat you to a free gift too – a pack of travel-size Crabtree & Evelyn products, worth £12.50. It’s perfect for spoiling yourself or as a stocking filler! To buy now, visit rhs.org.uk or call 0845 130 4646 quoting PGP135.

www.thatcherscider.co.uk

Pop into the Cidershop and stock up on our delicious orchard fresh cider. Myrtle Farm, Sandford, Somerset BS25 5RA Tel: 01934 822862

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> flavour in season

>Swede Another member of the cabbage family, the swede is more than an adequate replacement to the potato when mashed or roasted. It is very similar to the turnip but often has a round shape with a purple-yellow two-tone skin. The season runs through to February just in time to accompany its most familiar friend, the haggis, on Burns Night in January. Look for swedes with smooth, unblemished skins. Larger swedes can be woody, particularly at the core, so choose smaller ones if possible. When preparing, cut off the root, peel the tougher skin and cut into chunks before deciding their fate. If left in a breathable bag they will keep well in the fridge for a week.

Root vegetables and sage soup Serves 6 Peel 2 carrots, 1 small swede and 1 parsnip and chop into 1 cm dices. Place a large saucepan on a high heat adding a splash of olive oil along with 2oz butter. When melted, add in 2 onions (peeled and sliced), 1 garlic clove (peeled and crushed), and 4 large sage leaves (chopped). Cook for a few minutes then stir in the root vegetables, reduce the heat, cover with a lid and allow to continue cooking for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Now, remove the lid, add 1 bay leaf and 1 litre of vegetable stock and continue to cook the soup until the vegetables soften. Remove the bay leaf, blend the soup and if required add more stock to correct the consistency. Season and serve.

At their best

>Beetroot Beetroot has a sweet, earthy flavour with a beautiful deep red colour. As root veg goes, beetroot is fairly straightforward to grow and is available in lots of different shapes, sizes and colours. Their leaves are also a great source of nutrition but must be used within a day or two. When picking out beets, look for ones that are smooth and firm to the touch. Like parsnips, larger roots maybe a touch woody so try to avoid those. They will keep well in a fridge for couple of weeks but again, watch they don’t wither and turn soft. Their rich red colour makes them a welcome addition to any plate. Shred finely with some other seasonal roots to make an earthy, deep red coleslaw. 6

Beetroot and dill Remoulade Serves 4 Take 2 large, raw beetroots and wash well. Peel, finely grate and place in a sieve to drain. Meanwhile, in a bowl mix together 150g mayonnaise, 1tsp mustard and 1 tbsp anchovy essence, 1oz capers, 1oz of chopped gherkins, 4 chopped anchovies and the beetroot, mix well. When ready to serve fold through 1 small bunch of chopped dill.


> flavour in season

>Cavolo Nero This is a delicious black cabbage originating from Tuscany. This time of year brings us some beautiful brassicas and cavalo nero is no exception. This cabbage does not form a head but grows long, loose leaves with a tough central stalk running through. It is a fairly easy one to grow and matches some warming winter slow cooking recipes and comforting soups perfectly. Like parsnips it is also best picked after the first frost. Look for crisp, unblemished leaves and avoid leaves where the core has dried out or spilt. Remove the core before cooking and discard any damaged leaves. It will keep well in a fridge for a few days but will start to wilt so don’t store it for too long.

Cavolo nero with dried cranberries and pancetta. Serves 4 Peel and finely slice 2 banana shallots and 1 cavolo nero cabbage, remembering to remove the veins from the cabbage leaves. In a large frying pan over a hot heat add a large splash of olive oil and 50g butter. When fully melted add the shallots, 150g pancetta lardons and 10g toasted caraway seeds. Cook until the shallots soften, reduce the heat then add the cabbage and cook for approx 3 minutes, stirring regularly. Add 100g dried cranberries and continue cooking until the cabbage is just cooked leaving a little bite. Season and serve.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes.  Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and Stuart Ash from Woods Restaurant team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

right now >Parsnips A real favourite of mine with the Sunday roast. Historically, parsnips were used to sweeten dishes where sugar was not widely available and so were used a great deal more in cooking. The potato took its place particularly when sugar was imported on a wider scale. It is fairly easy to see the sense in our ancestors as, when roasted, parsnips can be deliciously sweet and a great complement to any Sunday roast. A little tip is to pick parsnips that have already faced a frost as this adds to their sweetness. Try to pick firm, dry parsnips. The bigger they are the more woody the core tends to be particularly later in the season. They can be stored well in a fridge for 2-3 weeks provided they are covered. A parsnip that is no longer at its best will tend to look withered and wrinkled and turns slightly soft. Roasted with a dusting of parmesan, salt and pepper is a simple but delicious way to enjoy them.

Seared rare beef fillet with blue cheese and buttered thyme parsnips Serves 4 Wash, peel and cut 2 parsnips into large batons. Cook in salted water until tender and allow to drain. Season and sear 4 x 6oz middle cut beef fillet steaks on both sides and around the edges in a hot oiled frying pan until browned. Place in a hot oven for 2 minutes, remove and rest. Fry the parsnips in 2oz of hot butter and olive oil along with 2 thyme sprigs, turn regularly and cook until golden brown. To serve, divide 6oz of strong Stilton between the 4 steaks, place back in the hot oven until the cheese starts to melt, remove the thyme sprigs from the parsnips and serve with the steaks.

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The Barn at Streamcombe Honing your skills, looking for inspiration or searching for the perfect gift for the foodie in your life? Our relaxed & informal cookery workshops, held in our 300 year old stone barn, are the answer. Three different 1-day courses are currently available:

Bread making Taste Culinary techniques

19 Jan 2011 & 9 Feb 2011 17 Nov 2010 & 2 Feb 2011 5 Jan 2011 & 16 Feb 2011

Plus, in December we have a special addition to give you fresh inspiration for your festive fare:

Christmas treats

1 Dec 2010

& 8 Dec 2010

Small groups allow tailored and individual tuition, and courses are priced from ÂŁ100/person. Participants can also take advantage of a preferential rate for luxury b&b of ÂŁ35 pppn.

email karen@streamcombefarm.co.uk or telephone 01398 323775 Streamcombe Farm, Dulverton, Somerset, TA22 9SA

www.southwestcookery.co.uk


> flavour fab foodie reads

fab foodie reads For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

Tartine Bread Chad Robertson

Abrams and Chronicle Books £24.95 As people have tightened their belts over the last few years, the nation has seen a resurgence of a baking boom. Keeping an eye on the pennies coupled with the fact that people just love the smell of freshly baked bread drifting through the house, has meant that we are digging out Grandma’s tried and tested recipes. For those that want to bring their baking skills up to speed, Chad Robertson’s Tartine Bread is the perfect buy. Dubbed as the bread baker’s handbook, this book contains more than 50 recipes and over 200 step-by-step photographs to help you on your way.

Eat Tweet – A Twitter Cookbook Maureen Evans Artisan Publishing £12.99

Never one to be left behind with the latest foodie trends, flavour is extremely pleased to find Eat Tweet, the first Twitter cookbook for today’s wired, food-loving generation. If you can decode the abbreviations (don’t worry, author Maureen Evans gives you a helping hand with this) then you are in for a multitude of 140 character recipes delights. Part of the fun is seeing Maureen condense the most complicated recipe such as Julia Child’s classic Beef Bourguignon into twitterese, showing that the most delicious and successful recipes only need the very basic ingredients.

Willie’s Chocolate Bible William Harcourt-Cooze

Fork to Fork Monty and Sarah Don

William Harcourt-Cooze, the world’s real life Willy Wonka, has been farming cacao for more than a decade at Hacienda El Tesoro, his farm high in the mountains of Venezuela and producing world class Cacao in his chocolate factory in Devon since 2008. He is the only small cacao grower and producer in the UK. In this new book, Willie brings together all of his expert knowledge with over 150 of his best chocolate recipes to create the ultimate chocolate bible. Enjoy chocolate pannacottas, dark chocolate tarts and homemade ice cream. The book also contains a chapter on cooking with chocolate at Christmas. Get practicing now and we’re sure you will have some very obliging taste testers.

Fork to Fork is your opportunity to keep a record of your own growing and eating adventures. From one of Britain’s best-loved gardening personalities and his dedicated wife comes this beautifully illustrated and informative journal. For Monty and Sarah, the process of preparing a meal begins with thinking about what seeds to buy and this is where you will begin. The instructions are clear and detailed and are packed full of handy hints and tips on how to cultivate and cook a wide range of vegetables, herbs and fruits. You can then enjoy the fruits of your labour with a selection of delicious recipes straight from Monty and Sarah’s kitchen.

Hodder & Stoughton £25

Octopus Publishing £12.99

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> flavour loves

Warming winter menus Wildfire Bar and Bistro in Dartmouth, Devon has rustled up a new winter menu to warm your cockles! From matured beef, exceptional oysters and the essential Wildfire Burger to winter warming pies freshly hand-made each day, seared sirloin steak on griddled homebaked bread, and puddings worthy of a straying spoon, each plate has outstanding ingredients, the light touch of an exceptional chef and superb flavours. With influences from around the world, this menu uses the best of local and seasonal ingredients. It’s hard to imagine a more stunning setting for the Wildfire as you sit back and watch the River Dart glide by, favourite tipple in hand. Tel: 01803 837180 W: www.wildfirebistro.com

flavour This month’s must do, buy & see...

Better Food

Loves Top Table

The Better Food Company knows you love your food. To celebrate the opening of its new food hall on Whiteladies Road and show its commitment to all things local, they’re offering you the chance to receive a free gourmet chef’s bag (worth £4) when you order your first veg box. The produce comes straight from partnering Community Farm, the main grower of local organic veg. Just call 0845 617 1174 and mention flavour during November 2010. T: 01179 466957 W: www.betterfood.co.uk

A taste of Spain! Based in North Dorset, edeli specialises in sourcing and selling the highest quality Spanish foods. The latest product to make its way into the online store is a range of flavoured oils from Barcelona. Olives pressed with fresh ingredients, creating natural oils which are vibrant, fresh and bursting with flavour. Choose from lemon, orange, tangerine, coffee, garlic, rosemary, ginger and chilli – exciting flavours to bring your cooking alive! Edeli also offer a wide range of hampers and Christmas gifts. Enter flavour when ordering to receive an exclusive 5% discount. T: 0845 003 5483 W: www.edelishop.co.uk

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  Jenny Barton Ceramics offer studiomade tableware for the discerning diner in a range of textured, unique designs. Each piece can be designed to your needs, with a colour wash of your choice to complement the ambience of your home or restaurant. Customers include Babington House, Shoreditch House, The Cowsheds at Clarendon Cross and Carnaby Street, London. T: 01373 452079 W: www.enigmapottery.co.uk


> flavour loves

Frozen Delights Getting into the festive spirit, Mendip Moments is launching three limited edition flavours for the Christmas season. Try out their damson and sloe gin and Christmas pudding flavours which, in addition to their popular Amaretto, are the perfect alternative to brandy cream! The ice-cream is handmade on the family dairy farm in Somerset, using milk and cream from the pedigree herd of Holstein cows. The finest quality ingredients result in a luxurious, creamy extravaganza of flavour. 

Sweet like chocolate

T: 01749 679400 W: www.mendipmoments.co.uk

Instant vintage dining!

Cocoa Bee is a unique web based gift and chocolate company. Fun and funky gifts are teamed up with delicious novelty chocolates that reflect the style of the present, which are then presented in beautiful hampers and gift bags. This gardening hamper (£29.99) is a delight for any green-fingered friend. Including a gardening bag with tools, a set of slate plant markers, mug and coaster and two bags of chocolate-coated fruit and coffee beans.

We just can’t get enough of No 21, a beautiful boutique selling eclectic furniture and decorative items from previous eras. The delicate, iridescent champagne set complete with six glasses and two decanters is our favourite from this bespoke collection. Visit the stunning shop in Shepton Mallet to see other unique finds and put a personal touch to your home. No21 are also offering flavour readers two mother of pearl salt dish shells when you buy the complete champagne set (£145).

T: 01242 224810 W: www.cocoa-bee.co.uk

T: 07825 910536 W: www.no21.co.uk

The Game Season! The game season is very much upon us and we can’t get enough of the high quality, local produce available at our fingertips. Owners Gary Say and Phil Rimmer of newly opened café Troughs located in the heart of Avoncliffe, couldn’t agree more and have set up a delicious menu offering the best of the season. Try pot roast pheasant with local honey, cider and cavolo nero to get you in the mood. T; 01225 868123 W: www.troughsatavoncliff.co.uk

Win! To celebrate the opening of the café, Troughs are offering one lucky flavour reader lunch for two with a bottle of local organic wine. To win simply email: competitions@ flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address, phone number and where you got your copy of the magazine. Good luck!

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> flavour better food company

better food company When it comes to advancing the organic food movement in Bristol, founder of the Better Food Company Phil Haughton never stands still, as his latest project reveals… Bristol is such a unique, vibrant city and it’s great to be a part of it. By opening up on Whiteladies Road, we’re joining an ever-growing population of traders offering an alternative to supermarket shopping. People’s shopping habits are going full circle and they’re returning to the high street to do their shopping. We’re trying as much as possible to offer the convenience of a supermarket with high quality organic food, which is why we’re open from 8am ‘til 8pm, six days a week. Our flagship store is in St. Werburghs. We wanted to repeat its success for years but the recession hit and things got delayed. The old veg shop that used to be on Lower Redland Road closed down, making people aware of just how little choice there was for locally grown fruit and veg. Having a presence at the farmers’ market and listening to the positive feedback finally encouraged us into opening a second store. The competition on Whiteladies is healthy for all of us – it encourages people onto the road. There’s Sheepdrove Organic butchers, Mitch Tonks’ fishmongers, a natural food store and a Cook franchise has just opened selling high quality frozen meals. The increased activity is really noticeable and it’s great to see Whiteladies getting back to what it used to be. 12


> flavour better food company

Bristol is alive and buzzing with an entrepreneurial spirit and plenty of get up and go. There are some great people doing great things; that in turn keeps the city on the move, alive and inspirational. We have a lot to be proud of in the South West. We have a huge range of first class organic producers and fantastic agriculture thanks to the rich land that supports so much meat and dairy. Bristol in particular is alive and buzzing with an entrepreneurial spirit and plenty of get up and go. There are some great people doing great things; that in turn keeps the city on the move, alive and inspirational. People here are looking for something that supports the local economy, which is where The Better Food Company comes in. My sister Liz is very much a part of the Bristol food scene as is my brother Barney ­– the three of us work very closely together. Liz runs the Folk House Café on Park Street and Barney set up Bordeaux Quay. Our passion for food was instilled in us from childhood thanks to our

parents whose backgrounds were both in hospitality. Every meal was eaten around a large table and we always found an excuse to celebrate good food and good wine. It doesn’t seem to be a problem to fill my time right now! I’ve been elected to sit on the Soil Association board, which I volunteer for. I also volunteer for the Community Farm in Chew Magna and am currently trying to get that off the ground by raising investment and making it a reality for 2011. It’s a not-for-profit organisation owned by its members and now supplies the Better Food Company with its produce. It encourages people to participate in all aspects of growing and connects them back to the source of their food – watch this space! ■

Better Food Company 94 Whiteladies Road, Clifton Bristol BS8 2QX 01179 466957 www.betterfood.co.uk www.thecommunityfarm.co.uk

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NOW OPEN AT THE MOUNT SOMERSET Book any one hour facial in November & Decmeber and receive free use of the spa facilities. Quote FL11. Terms and conditions apply. Subject to availability.

UNVEILING AT THE MOUNT SOMERSET THIS OCTOBER Book any one hour facial in October & November and receive free use of the facilities. Quote MS01. Terms and conditions apply. Subject to availability.

Facilities will include:

Facilities will include: • A state of the art hydrotherapy pool • A thermal suite which includes a sauna & steam room • Relaxing foot spas • Experience showers • Beautiful treatment rooms offering [comfort zone] treatments • A fitness suite with Technogym equipment • A stunning spa terrace overlooking the gardens • Changing rooms with lockers and complimentary towels

DAY PACKAGES • AMEMBERSHIPS, state of the art hydrotherapy pool • A thermal suite which includes a sauna & steam room • Relaxing foot spas • Experience showers • Beautiful treatment rooms offering [comfort zone] treatments • A fitness suite with Technogym equipment The Mount Somerset • A stunning spa terrace overlooking Lower Henlade the gardens Somerset TA3 5NB • Changing rooms with lockers and Telephone 01823 442500 complimentary towels

AND TREATMENTS AVAILABLE.

For more information call us on 01823 442500 or visit us at www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk

Fax 01823 442900 thespa@themountsomerset.co.uk

MEMBERSHIPS, DAY PACKAGES AND TREATMENTS AVAILABLE.

GOODFELLOWS

For more information call us on 01823 442500 or visit us at www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk The Mount Somerset Lower Henlade Somerset TA3 5NB Telephone 01823 442500 Fax 01823 442900 thespa@themountsomerset.co.uk

GOODFELLOWS @ HASKINS New Opening

christmas EVE menu £49

NEW YEAR’S EVE DINNER £89

Leave Father Christmas to do all the hard work while you sample culinary delights such as...

Celebrate in style at Goodfellows

Warm salad of duck confit with truffle oil Roast loin of venison with confit potato and caramelised fig

Enjoy Champagne, canapés, a sumptuous 5 course menu, then continue the party through to the New Year and beyond!

Sea bass with aubergine and lemon thyme sabayon 5 SADLER STREET, WELLS, SOMERSET BA5 2RR TEL: 01749 673866 | EMAIL: GOODFELLOWS@BTCONNECT.COM

www.goodfellowswells.co.uk

Goodfellows will be opening a new cafe within the Haskins department store in Shepton Mallet. The cafe will open from Monday 22nd November and will offer all the specialities of Goodfellows from breakfast to our famous £10 lunch, award-winning handmade cakes and great coffee.


> flavour anjum anand

The party season might come around every year, but that’s no reason to stick to the usual offerings of sausage rolls and vol-au-vents. With these simple recipes from the nation’s favourite Anjum Anand, why not try something new and inspiring for your guests?

Party Food with Anjum Anand

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W

> flavour anjum anand

Entertaining the Indian way... When Indian people entertain, it is with huge generosity of spirit. Guests are always served the best food their hosts can afford. Punjabis are known for their love of food and people, and my childhood had an abundance of both. My parents entertained large groups of people regularly and my mother always had enough to feed her guests twice over!

Entertaining my way... I have inherited my mother’s entertaining style but have adapted it to be a little simpler and more practical for a modern way of life. My parties are smaller – and I have less time than my mother did – but my menu will still have a wonderful variety of vibrant colours, textures and flavours. There will always be rice and warm breads (some bought in, to achieve a good broad selection) and pickles...if I remember! 

And your way...

Salmon tikka lettuce wraps

Everyone has their own style and you must be true to your own. Don’t overextend yourself with a complicated menu; it will just cause stress, which is not the point of having people over. Entertaining should be a pleasure. It is about showing love for your friends, having a good time and living life according to your own rules.

I think salmon works really well in tandoori-style dishes and this ‘fusion food’ starter is as stunning in colour as it is in taste. The earthy tandoori salmon is lifted by the creamy herb dressing and tart capers. Makes 8–10, can be doubled

For the tandoori marinade 50g plain yogurt 6g fresh root ginger, peeled weight, grated into a paste 2 garlic cloves, grated into a paste 2 tsp gram flour 1 tsp paprika ¾ tsp chilli powder 1½ tbsp vegetable oil ¾ tsp ground cumin ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp light crème fraîche For the wraps 2 small, skinless salmon fillets 8–10 even-sized baby gem lettuce leaves, washed and dried 2 tbsp capers A little finely shredded red cabbage (optional) For the topping 30g Greek yogurt 30g light crème fraîche 10g finely chopped onion 10g finely chopped fresh coriander

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1–2 green chillies, deseeded and finely chopped (optional) Salt, to taste 1 Mix together the ingredients for the marinade until smooth. Season well and taste; it should be slightly overseasoned at this point. Add the salmon, turn to coat and marinate for one hour. 2 Meanwhile, mix together the ingredients for the topping and season with salt and lots of freshly ground pepper. 3 When you are ready to serve, preheat your grill to high (I use the grill setting in my oven and place the baking tray on the top shelf). Place the fish on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper or foil and grill for seven to nine minutes, turning once, or until the fish is just done and charring in places. 4 Meanwhile, lay out the lettuce leaves. When the fish is done, cut each fillet lengthwise into four or five pieces, then break up into large chunks. Place each broken-up piece into a lettuce leaf. Add a teaspoon of the topping and scatter with a few capers. Sprinkle with the cabbage (if using) and serve immediately.


> flavour anjum anand

Chicken kathi rolls One of my favourite starters: delicious chicken, a tangle of onions, tomatoes and chutney all wrapped in lovely pastry. You can substitute the chicken for lamb or even fresh paneer or stir-fried chickpeas. Makes 10 pieces

For the marinade 15g fresh root ginger, peeled weight 4 fat garlic cloves 2½ tbsp lemon juice 1½ tsp ground cumin 2 tbsp vegetable oil ¾–1 tsp chilli powder ¾ tsp garam masala salt, to taste ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper For the rolls 2 chicken breasts (around 160g each), cut into small cubes 400g packet ready-rolled puff pastry plain flour, to dust 2 small eggs, beaten 1 onion, sliced 1 large vine tomato, sliced into strips 1 x jar of chutney, your choice 1 Whizz together all the ingredients for the marinade with 2 tbsp water until smooth. Place the chicken in the marinade and leave for as long as possible (a minimum of one hour, or up to overnight in the fridge). 2 Using a 10cm bowl or saucer as a guide, cut out five circles from the pastry. Take one at a time and roll each out into thinner 15cm circles, using a little flour to help. Heat a non-stick frying pan, place in a pastry round, and cook until golden spots appear on the base (around 20 seconds), then turn over and cook the other side until golden. Meanwhile, spread a good layer of the egg over the upper surface, using a small spoon. Then flip and cook the egg side for 10 seconds. Take out and place on a plate. Repeat with the others. 3 Heat a saucepan, add the chicken and marinade and stir-fry for two or three minutes, or until you can see droplets of oil on the base of the pan. Add a splash of water (to deglaze the base) and the onion and cook for another minute or so until the chicken is done. Add the tomato, stir for 20 seconds, then remove from the heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning. 4 Taking one ‘bread’ at a time, egg side up, spoon a line of the chicken mixture down the centre, then add a rounded tablespoon of chutney. Roll into a log and slice in half. 5 You can make these ahead, wrap the finished rolls in foil and reheat in the oven when you are ready to serve, but they will be a little softer.

Entertaining should be a pleasure. It is about showing love for your friends, having a good time and living life according to your own rules. 17


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> flavour anjum anand

Anjum Anand’s ‘I Love Curry’ is published by Quadrille. RRP £17.99

Reader offer Readers of flavour magazine can buy Anjum Anand’s I Love Curry at the special price of £9.99 (normally £17.99), with free p&p. To order, please call direct on 01256 302699 quoting reference ‘40C’ and your credit card details.

Puchkas These are little taste bombs and I don’t know anyone who doesn’t love them. Small, crisp, hollow balls of semolina pastry are filled with potatoes, chickpeas, yogurt, then both a sweet-and-sour and a herb chutney. They are topped with sev, which looks like fine yellow pieces of thread. This looks complicated, but is really easy and indescribably delicious. Makes 20, enough for 4–5 people

For the sweet-and-sour tamarind chutney 2 good tsp tamarind paste 35–40g jaggery, chopped up, or 3¾ tbsp sugar ¼ tsp salt ¼-¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 rounded tsp roasted cumin powder For the puchkas 200g plain yogurt, not too sour Salt, to taste Scant ¼ tsp chilli powder 100g potato 20 ready-made puris (sold as pani puris) 50g cooked chickpeas, rinsed Half a jar of herb chutney, your choice

1 For the tamarind chutney, place the tamarind, sugar and 6 tbsp water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for three minutes. Add the salt, pepper and ¾ tsp of roasted cumin powder (reserve the rest) and cook until the chutney is syrupy (another minute or two). You should have around 4 tbsp of chutney. If it becomes hard as it sits, loosen it with 1 tbsp boiling water. 2 Whisk the yogurt with a little salt, the chilli powder and reserved roasted cumin powder until smooth. Set aside. 3 Boil the potato in salted water until

tender, then peel and cut into 1cm cubes. 4 Assemble the puchkas when you are ready to eat. You will find that the puris have a thicker, harder side and a thinner side… it might not be so obvious at first, but when you tap both convex sides with your fingernail you will easily spot the thinner side. Break a 2.5cm hole in the thinner side with your finger. Fill each puri with a couple of chickpeas and a piece of potato. Spoon 1 tsp yogurt into each and top with ¼ tsp each of tamarind chutney and herb chutney. Sprinkle generously with the sev (if using) and serve immediately.

You place the puchkas in your mouth whole and bite into an explosion of tastes and textures

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> flavour xxxxxxx

The BBC Good Food Show Winter has everything you need to create the perfect Christmas this year, so why not enjoy a day packed full of entertainment, inspiration and great shopping in the environment of a Good Food Show? The show is packed full of exhibitors, celebrity chefs and live demonstrations dedicated to the festive season so come along to the Show to enjoy a fabulous day out and pick up some tips to impress your guests this Christmas! BBC Good Food Show Winter takes place between 24 – 28 November, NEC Birmingham. Call 0844 581 1360 to book tickets or visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com 20

WIN!

HAPPY rd

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BIRTHDAY flavour

To celebrate flavour’s 3rd birthday, the BBC Good Food Show Winter are giving 10 lucky flavour readers the chance to win a pair of tickets. For your chance to win simply email competitions@ flavourmagazine.com stating your name, address and phone number, or write to us at the usual address!

Terms and Conditions: Competition tickets are general admission only. Excluding Saturdays, they are non transferable and cannot be exchanged for cash.


> flavour turn up the heat

Some Like it Hot

South West to Southwest Voted by Channel 4 as one of the top five American Restaurants in the UK, the Firehouse Rotisserie in Bristol and Bath is one of our favourite foodie hot spots. Combining eclectic flavours from California, the Pacific Rim and the American Southwest, the Firehouse serves food with a delicious twist in a warm and rustic atmosphere. Their barbeque duck quesadilla with tomato chile jam is a must! 01179 157323 / 01225 482070 www.firehouserotisserie.co.uk

The Chilli Pepper Company has been producing award-winning handmade chilli sauces and chutneys for over 10 years using the finest local ingredients. New products for Christmas are Mojo Picon, a traditional Spanish sauce and Harissa, a North African chilli paste full of exotic spices, perfect for spicing up Christmas leftovers. The Chilli Pepper Company is the proud grower of the world’s hottest chilli, the Naga Viper. Visit online for more recipe ideas and take a look at over 200 varieties of chilli seeds! T: 01539 558110 W: www.thechillipeppercompany.co.uk

Turn up ht e Heat

Try these four scorching ideas to spice up any cold winter’s night…

Saucy Stuff

Chilli Chocolate 15 years ago saw the birth of James Chocolates, the first company in the UK to produce and sell chilli chocolate. Hot on the shelves this month are hot and spicy ginger and chilli truffles, a chilli pecan praline bar, sweet Thai chilli discs and the new firecracker bar. This Ecuadorian chocolate bar is made from 70% cocoa and is blended with fruity, slightly smokey ancho chillies and popping candy. The combination of bitter dark chocolate with warming chilli and explosive candy has been a real winner at taste tests!

Rico Mexican kitchen offers a delicious range of salsas, beans and cooking sauces perfect for adding fire and flavour to your dishes. Serve the true taste of Mexico with your favourite foods – try jazzing up your morning eggs or as a cold dip with crunchy crudités. If you like it hot, try the Chipotle Xtra Hot Salsa or for little less fire, the more traditional Mole sauce. Products are available to order online or from Harrods and Selfridges. 01773 880764 www.ricomexicankitchen.co.uk

T: 01749 831330 W: www.jameschocolates.co.uk 21


> flavour chewton glen

Destination: New Forest

Chewton Glen A luxury country house hotel set in 130 acres of Hampshire countryside and just a few minutes’ walk from the sea all seemed too good to be true, so this month flavour set out in search of the jewel in the South Coast’s crown... Driving across the New Forest watching wild ponies graze in the mist of the early morning gives some idea of Hampshire’s captivating charm. Yet in the heart of this pastoral paradise, sits the height of English sophistication. Put simply, Chewton Glen is a very special place. Its stately red brick frame punctuated by creeping ivy and sweeping lawns set the tone for what promises to be an unforgettable stay. Within the 130 acres of grounds there is a 9-hole par 3 golf course, a practice range, two indoor and two outdoor tennis courts, an outdoor swimming pool, a croquet lawn and a putting green. And it doesn’t end there. Walking and jogging trails are dotted throughout the grounds, including one which takes guests to the nearby beach. Mountain bikes are available for guest usage to explore the local area and a range of country pursuits can be arranged for guests within the grounds, including clay pigeon shooting, archery, falconry and apache buggy racing to name but a few. Thankfully, all of this physical exertion can be rewarded by a session in the multi-award winning spa: praise be.

Chewton Glen Hotel & Spa New Milton Hampshire BH25 6QS 01425 275 341 www.chewtonglen.com

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Each of the 58 bedrooms and suites has been decorated individually to provide the ultimate in luxury and comfort. The combination of the hotel’s antique furnishings and sumptuous fabrics is true testament to English savoir faire. As you would expect in a world class hotel, each room is also equipped to the highest standard, and anything which isn’t within arm’s reach is only a phone call to reception away. Most of the bedrooms boast a terrace, balcony or

private garden, allowing guests to look out onto the immaculate grounds and National Park beyond. Dining at Chewton Glen falls Executive Head Chef Luke Matthews and his substantial brigade of 27, all of whom are to take great pride in the fact that every single meal, be it a gastronomic tasting menu, a light post-spa lunch, afternoon tea or room service all come out of one highly organised kitchen. Luke prides himself on his adaptability to his diner’s needs, and often prepares bespoke menus for groups who plan to stay over a number of days. His love of the hotel has clearly not wavered in the last 17 years of working there. Offering a variety of dishes from a selection of menu options, the style of cookery is eclectic, and extensive use is made of fresh Hampshire produce such as wild mushrooms, vegetables and game from the New Forest, and seafood from local Christchurch, Bournemouth and Lymington. As such, the restaurant has been awarded a string of accolades, including three AA Rosettes and a glowing report in the Hardens Restaurant Guide. With a staff-to-guest ratio of two-to-one, it’s impossible not to feel like pampered royalty at this world-renowned boutique hotel in Hampshire. Combining the oldschool elegance of the P.G. Wodehouse era with a style-sharp modern sensibility, this hotel, spa, restaurant and country club has to be seen to be believed. ■


> flavour chewton glen

The combination of the hotel’s antique furnishings and sumptuous fabrics is true testament to English savoir faire

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> flavour green cooks

green cooks This autumn, sustainable Chilean winery Cono Sur is launching its ‘Green Cooks Search’, an online competition to find the UK’s most environmentally-friendly home cook. The competition highlights the affinity between Cono Sur and sustainable cooking by rewarding ‘green cooks’, a term coined by Cono Sur to describe those who produce food that not only matches Cono Sur wines in terms of taste, but also its sustainability ethos by using homegrown, organic or ethically sourced ingredients. The Chilean company has signed up top chefs known for their eco-cooking credentials to be on the judging panel, including Barny Haughton, Bristol’s very own award-winning chef and founder of the Bordeaux Quay restaurant and cookery school, the first restaurant in Europe to apply the principles of sustainable gastronomy throughout every aspect of the business. Barny has prepared his own sustainable recipes to inspire others to try out their eco-cooking skills; this sustainable and seasonal recipe for wild rabbit devised by Barny is delicious, so give it a try and get eco-cooking!

Braised wild rabbit with tagliatelle and an orange and marjoram gremolata Wild rabbit opens a whole new world of culinary possibilities in terms of taste and value for money and it’s also a fantastic source of protein. This particular recipe is wonderfully rich, full of interesting and complementary flavours and is perfect for an autumn dinner party when wild rabbit is most widely available. Serves 6 Ingredients 2 wild rabbits jointed into legs, saddle and shoulders 8 rashers of organic streaky bacon or pancetta, roughly chopped 1 carrot, peeled and chopped 1 celery stick, chopped 1 onion, peeled and chopped 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 400g tin chopped tomatoes Small bunch thyme 2 bay leaves Half bottle (325ml) of red wine Butter Olive oil Salt and pepper 800g fresh tagliatelle For the gremolata 1 small bunch marjoram Zest of an orange 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped

The competition is open from 8th November at www.conosurgreencooks. com and will run for six weeks, with entrants invited to upload recipes, photos and videos of their green cooking exploits. The winner will be treated to a weekend away at The Victoria, an environmentally-friendly gastropub and guesthouse in West London.

Method 1 Season the rabbit pieces. 2 Heat a little oil in a heavy based casserole on the hob and add the rabbit pieces in batches. Cook on a medium heat, turning until browned. Remove and set aside. 3 Add the chopped vegetables and garlic to the casserole and sweat gently until softened and sweet. 4 Return the rabbit pieces, tomatoes, wine, thyme and bay leaves to the casserole and cook very gently until the meat is almost coming off the bone. 5 Remove from the heat and leave to cool in the liquor. 6 Once cool, remove the meat from the liquor, strain well and discard vegetables. 7 Return the strained liquor to a clean pan and cook gently, skimming as you go, until reduced to approximately half a pint. 8 Take the meat off the bone and discard

the bones. Chop the meat into bite-sized pieces. 9 Make the gremolata by chopping the marjoram and garlic together and mixing with the orange zest. To serve 1 Gently re-heat rabbit in reduced broth. Add a knob of butter. 2 Cook the tagliatelle and toss in a large bowl with a little more butter. Toss the pasta through the sauce and serve in pasta bowls with a sprinkling of gremolata but no Parmesan.

Wine match Cono Sur Pinot Noir is the perfect wine match; the light gaminess of the rabbit, hints of orange and buttery sweetness in this sauce are beautifully balanced by the soft red fruits and gentle spice of this deliciously elegant wine.

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> flavour xxxxxxx

Festive Fizz Fizz, glorious fizz! Was there ever a better sound than the popping of a Champagne cork? It would seem many agree. Despite the recession, in 2009 over 30 million bottles were imported into the UK – Champagne’s biggest export market. And whilst this represented a decline on the year before, sales of other sparkling wines continue to grow steadily. Our love affair with the fizzy stuff is far from over.

For those who partake in a glass at every opportunity, Christmas is a great excuse to indulge even more. And for others who keep themselves in a tight ration for fear of overindulgence, surely at Christmas we should all toast one another’s good health with a glass of the good stuff? But why does Champagne have the reputation – and price tag – that it does? There are many reasons for this. For a start, it’s a marketer’s dream. Champagne ‘the brand’ is a worldwide success – synonymous with luxury, wealth and unashamed excess. For a (relatively) small price tag, the average consumer gets a glimpse into the lives of the rich and famous. So, demand starts to outstrip supply – which in turn pushes the price up further. The Champagne region in North East France is one of the most northerly wine growing regions in the world. The harsh winter conditions add to the quality of the wines but also add to the cost of production. To add to this, the grapes in Champagne must be hand harvested which is labour intensive and costly. And to top it all off, the minimum ageing time allowed for Champagne is three years – which ties up an enormous amount of cash flow. It’s a good job the liquid itself is pretty amazing stuff after all this. What’s more amazing still is the diversity of flavours in different styles of Champagne. Let’s go on a whistle-stop tour with a few seriously good examples.

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> flavour festive fizz

Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School. We start with Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV – a gorgeous, richly flavoured Champagne. Non vintage Champagnes are made from a blend of two or more vintages and they are deliberately made to be consistent from year to year. The wine makers add a large percentage of older ‘reserve’ wines, plus four years ageing, to contribute to the flavour. Charles Heidsieck was voted ‘best value Champagne producer’ in 2008 and I couldn’t agree more. Try it at the Hare Restaurant in Lambourn Woodlands near Hungerford – a lovely match for scallops or salmon fillet. And check out their Christmas party menu – it looks divine. www.theharerestaurant.co.uk Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut is perhaps the most iconic of Rosé Champagnes. This is partly due to the method used in making the wine. LaurentPerrier choose to honour the traditional method of rosé production by allowing the skins of the red grapes to come into contact with the wine for a brief period of 3 days (most rosé Champagnes are made by adding a little red wine to the finished white wine). This saignee method means the colour changes in each and every batch produced. A great match for poultry, the new season grouse at the Lakeside Park Hotel on the Isle of Wight would be a great choice. Personally though, I would hold out for the strawberry parfait with basil foam and balsamic sorbet. LaurentPerrier Rosé is an extraordinary match for red fruit desserts. Enjoy while looking out across the view in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. www.lakesideparkhotel.com Vintage Champagnes are only made in exceptional years, and all of the grapes that go into the Champagne must come from that year. Supply is therefore limited which pushes up prices. It’s worth paying extra for though, as you are guaranteed a more intense and diverse taste experience. Piper-Heidsieck Vintage 2000 gets my vote in this category. If you like the biscuity

flavours of Champagne you’ll find them in abundance here. Wonderful with food but for sheer indulgence enjoy it on its own at Prive, a plush new style bar in the centre of Bristol, decorated in an opulent purple and gold. For extra decadence, try the Piper from one of the limited edition Christian Louboutin crystal stilettos – part of the Piper ‘Le Ritual’ – a traditional gallant ritual involving drinking Champagne from the shoe of one’s favourite courtesan. www.privebristol.com Blanc de Blancs Champagne translates as ‘white from white’ and refers to a white wine being produced solely from white grapes – Chardonnay. This creates a light bodied Champagne, with real finesse. Ruinart describes it as their hardest wine to make due to the austerity of the grape itself. By using exceptional premier cru site vineyards and taking time to capture the essence of chardonnay, its richness and roundness, it is then aged and sold in its traditional 18th century flacon Champenois shaped bottle. At Cadbury House Hotel in Congresbury you’ll be able to sit back and enjoy a few in the newly refurbished Marco Pierre White restaurant – perhaps as a partner to the dressed crab. www.cadburyhotelbristol.co.uk We couldn’t have a review of the Champagne category without a peek at the top end of the range. Krug Grand Cuvée Brut is from one of the most famous Champagne houses, although you would probably never guess this from its relatively humble offices in the back streets of Reims. A very different style to the Ruinart, this is a Pinot dominated blend, and aged for six years is ‘almost certainly the finest nonvintage sparkling wine in the world’. At Guy Ritchie’s pub The Punchbowl in

London, Krug have been running a ‘Thank Krug it’s Friday’ promotion throughout the summer, celebrating the exquisite food matching of Krug with fish and chips. Experience the taste sensation for yourself at the Fish House in Chilgrove, or experiment with one of their fantastic creations from the crustacean counter and oyster bar. www.thefishhouse.co.uk

With all the extra cost factors in making Champagne, it’s not always possible to reach for a prestige cuvée on a Tuesday night. Thankfully, there are some great quality alternatives to Champagne from around the world. Probably the most famous of all New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, Cloudy Bay’s Pelorus NV (a sparkling Chardonnay/Pinot Noir) is also worth writing home about. With all the biscuity flavours you would associate with Champagne, it’s a suitably indulgent experience that’s good value enough to perhaps tempt you for a second. Try at the Victoria Hotel in Sidmouth, in between a programme of spa treatments – as an aperitif either alone or with some wafer-light canapés. www.brend-hotels.co.uk/ thevictoria/luxurydining Our last wine is one that’s bang on trend – Fantinel’s Prosecco Extra Dry NV. Strangely the ‘Extra Dry’ description tells us that the wine is slightly less dry than its ‘Brut’ counterparts. This is one of my favourite ‘Tuesday night’ wines – enjoy a spot of great value indulgence with some good comfort food. Try it at the Ship & Castle in Congresbury, just down the road from Cadbury House Hotel, with either the Mezze platter or King Prawn Thai Curry. Sit down in a high-backed armchair and relax. www.shipandcastle.com

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> flavour xxxxxxx

Welcome to the new look Chequers!

* UnDeR new OwneRShip * from the people who brought you The Marlborough Tavern

Whether you’re after a simple bite to eat, fine dining, or just a drink, you’ll find it all served up with a warm welcome here. Downstairs you’ll find a menu of great tasting, quality gastro pub food, served in a friendly pub atmosphere. Upstairs our new restaurant serves a dinner menu of the highest quality modern British cooking.

£10 lunch offer - any starter & main from our bar menu for just £10.

Early diner offer - 25% off - when you eat in the restaurant before 7pm. The small print: both offers valid until Nov 30th 2010 & not valid with any other promotion. Lunch offer runs Mon - Fri. Early diner promotion runs Weds - Fri in the restaurant only. Only valid when mentioned with advance reservation, and with maximum seating time of 90mins.

Haven’t tried us yet? Here’s what you’re missing... “The Chequers in Bath is a real gem. The intimate upstairs restaurant is welcoming; the staff are friendly; but the food blows all of that out of the water. Good sized portions, reasonably priced, at Michelin Star quality. I’m taking my parents there.” - Customer review, TopTable.com “One of those rare cooks who know the difference between just right and too much: his food is interesting, punchy and full of flavour” - Bath Magazine “experience and - most notably imagination were evident throughout our super supper from start to finish” - Folio

The Chequers | 50 Rivers St | Bath | BA1 2QA T 01225 360017 W thechequersbath.com E reservations@thechequersbath.com Open 7 days / week. Lunch: Mon-Sun, Dinner: Mon-Sat 28Sunday lunch served till 4pm

... find us How to


> flavour columnist martin blunos

see here! The new project that I am involved with in Cardiff is well under way and seems to be taking up the bulk of my time. The more I put in now the easier it should be come the re-opening day in January. All a tad hush-hush at the mo’ but will keep you informed as and when. I managed to squeeze in a week of demonstrations at the NEC’s recent ‘International Caravan and Motor Home Exhibition’, cooking one pot outdoorsy stuff. I’ve never seen so many caravans, it was like driving down to Porlock on a Saturday in July! The show saw an amazing turnout of people defying the recession – in the first three days alone I heard that three juggernaut – like motor homes were sold at a cost of £28,300 each.      Closer to home in Bath, I was asked by the lovely people at Specsavers to be part of their birthday celebrations and cut the cake with them. And a jolly good cake it was too. I’ve been a customer for a while now as it’s glasses for work and contacts for TV – vanity or what? Before the contacts it was all a blur and I used to try to fumble my way through the gigs. Enough was enough however when after criss-cross scoring some squid with an ultra sharp Japanese knife, I noticed the tips of my fingers change to a rich claret and felt a searing pain. This month’s recipe is a tasty one pot wonder that can be cooked through and served and reheated the following day to save time – and we all know how the caravan needs as long as possible to get from A to B! ■

He might be a chef with a keen eye for detail, but this month Martin Blunos confesses to a secret kitchen aid...

BEEF POT STEW Ingredients 1 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 2 tbsp plain flour 1kg stewing steak, diced 1tbsp tomato ketchup 2 tbsp tomato purée 4 carrots, peeled and cut in large dice 4 parsnips, peeled and cut in large dice 200ml red wine 300ml beef stock, can be from a cube 1 bay leaf 1 small orange, zest only no pith Salt Milled black pepper

Method 1 Preheat the oven to 150ºC. Heat the oil in a large flameproof casserole then gently fry the onion and garlic for a couple of minutes, or until softened. 2 Place the flour in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper, add the meat and toss around to coat. Tip into the casserole with all the remaining ingredients. Stir, bring to the boil then cover. Place in the oven for 4 hours, stirring once. Season to taste, then serve with chunks of crusty bread.

One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 29


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The Doom Bar, Rock, Cornwall

Quality beer from Sharp’s Brewery – the perfect Christmas gift! Visit our brewery shop in Rock or online at www.sharpsbrewery.co.uk to buy award winning bottled beer, poly boxes, mini kegs, clothing and gifts. Sharp’s beers are brewed using just four natural ingredients Cornish water, British malted barley, whole hop flowers and yeast.

WWW.SHARPSBREWERY.CO.UK | 01208 862121


> flavour ask a chef

Ask a chef R

Ronnie Faulkner

onnie Faulkner is the owner-chef of Ronnie’s Restaurant in Thornbury. Ronnie has had a distinguished career working in some of the most prestigious kitchens in the UK and Europe, for celebrated chefs such as Anton Mosimann and Ed Baines. Cooking for national and foreign royalty and dignitaries honed Ronnie’s skill and further reinforced his lifelong commitment to food. His menus showcase the best local produce, earning the restaurant its title as the Good Food Guide’s ‘Restaurant of the Year’. Ronnie’s is based in Thornbury and is open Tuesday-Sunday. Lunches and coffees are available from 10am-3pm and evening meals are available from 6.30pm-11pm. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.

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Q. I love chestnuts at this time of year, what can I pair them with? Julie Dixon, Bristol A. Chestnut season starts from late September and goes through to the end of December. I enjoy them freshly roasted from a street vendor with a glass of mulled wine, but they work fantastically well with most of our autumnal meats or baked with chocolate into a gateaux. I have them on the menu with roasted rump of lamb garnished with spiced red cabbage, apples poached in mulled wine and confit shallots. 

Q. One pot dinners are my favourite type of cooking but my new girlfriend is a vegetarian. What can I make that’s just as satisfying to impress her? Charles Randall, Frome A. As well as being in season, butternut squash is one of my favourite vegetables and makes a beautiful risotto. The only drawback is the risotto should be constantly stirred on top of the stove, rather than cooking it in the oven like traditional stews and casserole. Finish the risotto with loads of Parmesan and drizzle a sage butter over the top.

Q. Can you suggest a delicious sauce I can cook mussels with? James Gale, Chipping Sodbury A. It’s the classics that have stood the test of time and there is no finer example than the moules marinière. The sauce is made from the essence of the mussel, wine and cream. Add finely diced shallots to a pan with a knob of butter and sweat. Once the shallots are soft, add the mussels, a generous glass of wine and a clove or two of crushed garlic, cover with a lid and steam for about 3-6 minutes. The mussels are cooked when they’ve opened. To finish add ½ cup of double cream and some chopped parsley. I recommend cooking with a bottle of Gavi di Tassarolo – spare a little for the pan and enjoy the rest!

If you have a culinary query for Ronnie, write to us at the usual address or email info@flavourmagazine.com

Q. I’m having a bonfire night party and need to feed a crowd on a budget – please help! Nathaniel Brawn, Clevedon A. Bonfire nights are traditionally cold and the fare needs to be warming, comforting and hearty. I would suggest a braised shin of beef with butter beans. Beef shin is a relatively cheaper cut, you should pay no more than £6.25 a kilo. Simply season the meat and colour it in a hot pan. Pop it into a casserole dish with carrots, onions, celery, a splash of red wine, garlic and thyme, cover it with water and bake it for a few hours on a moderate heat until tender. Soak the butter beans over night and add them to the casserole two hours into the cooking. Serve it with crusty bread or mashed potatoes

Ronnie’s – Tel: 0800 849 4455 www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk 31


> flavour xxxxxxx

  

AT THE BRASSERIE

For contemporary and stylish dining this Christmas season. Special 3 course festive menu available for lunch and dinner - ÂŁ33 per person to include coffee and mince pies. For reservations please call The Brasserie on 01225 740575.

Menu available from Wednesday 1st December to Monday 3rd January.

www.lucknampark.co.uk

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> flavour hartley farm

hartley farm Hartley Farm Shop will be kicking off Christmas in style once again with its third Christmas Fayre on Saturday 27 November from 10am to 4pm. The farm shop, based in Winsley just outside of Bath, will be showcasing some of its fantastic local suppliers by inviting them to the farm for the day to show and sample their wares. The Christmas Fayre provides a great opportunity for everyone to come together and meet some of the finest local producers and quiz them on their food as well as hopefully providing some inspiration for all cooks with this year’s festive season, which is fast approaching. The event promises to be a real treat with lots to eat and drink on offer, activities for the kids and a chance to meet some local food heroes such as Ivy House Farm, local charity Jamie’s Farm, Quoins Organic Vineyard and Marshfield Ice Cream to name but a few.

Receive

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Christmas order forms will also be available from the shop from midNovember. From the butchery this year will be free-range bronze turkeys from the Cotswolds, free range pork, beef and lamb all sourced from the farm or within a few miles. There will also be a fantastic selection of locally made artisan cheeses as well as a few classics from further afield for a truly indulgent Christmas. The café serves freshly ground seasonal coffees throughout the day as well as mouth-watering

cakes and treats and a warming winter lunch menu to provide some retreat and help you recharge those batteries.   Hartley Farm Winsley Bradford on Avon Wiltshire BA15 2JB 01225 864948 www.hartley-farm.co.uk

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Food will never become mundane as long as those with a flair for reinvention keep up the good work. That’s why we love Andrew Pern’s refreshing take on game just as much as the exalted Michel Roux Senior – modern British at its best...

Beautiful Game The sight of roe deer, pheasants and partridge feeding together on a crisp carpet of virgin snow beside our pond at Bank House instantly grabbed my imagination as a child and has stayed with me ever since. At that moment, my love affair with loose birds and game began. Loose Birds & Game delivers a fresh approach to the often dark and dismal autumnal and winter dishes normally associated with game. Ruddy cheeks and red noses are replaced with the virtues of low traceable fat in venison, the rarity of being able to eat grouse as a stew, salads that will be the envy of every Knightsbridge restaurant, with ladies that lunch, to snacks that the kids will devour and, to keep everyone happy, there’s even a tipple for granddad. I’ve always wanted to showcase the heritage and versatility of game as part of what defines my idea of British-ness, but in a light and informative way.  It’s amazing how easy it is to find local game and even some loose birds, if you are prepared to look in the right places; try your local butchers, farmers’ markets or the ‘ye olde country-type shoppe’ and take advantage of searching online. It’s like anything in life, if you don’t ask, you don’t get!

Andrew Pern is owner and Head Chef of the remarkable Star Inn at Harome, one of the very first pubs to achieve Michelin Star status and is still one of only ten pubs in the UK ever to receive a Michelin Star. Andrew is pictured here with Michel Roux Senior, who has also written the foreword for his latest book. 34


> flavour beautiful game

Smoked pheasant, savoy cabbage and beetroot terrine with walnut and quince dressing For me, the rich colours and textures of this terrine are autumn on a plate. The terrine ingredients are first cooked to perfection, then it is set and pressed in a gelatinous game stock. It’s a complex recipe, but well worth all the hassle. Serves 4 Ingredients For the terrine 6 cold-smoked pheasant breasts 6 large savoy cabbage leaves, blanched 2 large beetroot, cooked and peeled and cut into 1cm discs 2 gelatine leaves 200ml duck fat 250g butter For the dressing 75g walnuts, chopped 1 quince, diced into small pieces 2 tsp grain mustard 50ml walnut oil 10g caster sugar

15ml white wine vinegar seasoning To garnish Fresh garden herbs Method 1 Line a buttered terrine mould with clingfilm. Place cabbage leaves into the mould to create a second ‘lining’. Heat the duck fat in a heavy-bottomed pan, keeping at a temperature of 100-130°C. Place the pheasant breast into the fat and cook for 1 hour. Slice each breast into 3 and keep warm. 2 Soak the leaf gelatine in cold water. Heat the butter and add the soaked gelatine, whisking until the mixture emulsifies.  Dip the pheasant breast pieces into the butter/gelatine mixture and place a layer into the terrine. Repeat the process with the beetroot, then with the pheasant breast again, the beetroot, and so on. Place another layer of clingfilm over the terrine and press overnight. 

To make the dressing Mix the white wine vinegar with the sugar, until the sugar dissolves, add the mustard and whisk in the oil. Add the walnuts and chopped quince. When ready to serve, slice the terrine and place a slice in the centre of the plate, drizzle the dressing around and garnish with fresh garden herbs. 

Andrew Pern’s ‘Loose Birds & Game’ is published by Face Publications. Available from 8 December. RRP £39.99 35


> flavour xxxxxxx

Head gardener Charlie O’ Reilly

kitchen garden When we took over Combe House, we inherited a “wild child” garden – all flowers, shrubs and lawns (well, long grass and moss really.) Included were some spectacular specimen trees, a couple of very broken greenhouses and a Victorian collection of potting sheds... and gardener Charlie O’Reilly, a left wing, slightly anarchic man of letters with twinkling eyes and a very ready sense of vicious Scottish humour.

The greenhouses have been rebuilt and are now the crucible for all the seed trays and summer soft herbs and salads. Potting sheds have been restored and are the store for tools, seeds, coats and boots, and the scene of frantic potting and tea making in spring. The walled garden has been cleared of wild cherry, oak, ash and understorey and today the original raised beds and cold frames have been double dug and manured.

The gardens today are a reflection of Combe House as a Hotel and our collective thoughts about life. There are now four of us working in the gardens with Charlie being here 26 out of the 944 years that Combe has been a dwelling.

We don’t garden in straight lines or have monogamous beds, rather, we work out what we will need of a particular fruit or vegetable, sow or plant it and surround the “plot” with marigolds, tagetese, parsley, nicotiniana or dwarf sunflowers. This gives colour, definition, and some pest relief.

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This month Ken Hunt, owner of Combe House in Devon offers his seasonal tips for harvesting and growing in November. We end up with a wonderful patchwork of colour and shades that feeds the soul as well as the body. Everything is in a three year rotation, we use no artificial “stuff”, only manure, compost and our own natural pesticides. We have good years and not so good years, like everyone. But we have great fun and feel very privileged to be able to work so close to nature. Our aim is to provide the kitchens and our guests with the best possible quality of seasonal fruit and vegetables. We get a little better at it each year, but we don’t want to get there too quickly, after all, we are still very young. ■ T: 01404 540400 W: www.combehousedevon.com


> flavour kitchen garden

What to sow now

Recently restored Victorian Kitchen Gardens at Combe House Devon.

The secret of our success with the kitchen gardens at Combe House Devon is to sow very little in November. We have learnt through sweet experience that garlic and broad beans can go very wrong if the weather is really inclement. Rather, we plan the next year – clean everything, dig in as much manure and compost as we can, lime and ash the beds, make cuttings, sow green manure, save seeds, and dry pulses from summer plantings.

Ron Hutchinson with a red cabbage to feed the five thousand.

What to pick now

In 2008 Combe House planted orchards and soft fruit gardens and re-introduced the famous Tom Putt apple – formerly a staple product of the West Country cider industry.

We are now pulling swedes, parsnips and red cabbages. We are also still cutting spinach and lettuce. Slowcooked red cabbage flavoured with apples, tart apple cider and caraway seeds makes a zesty side dish to rich meats, especially pork and game. The last eight (and very late) globe artichokes are about to be offered to a deserving guest – each leaf being dipped into melted whey butter and savoured.

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> flavour reader review

Divine Cafe

Reader

Review

by Jill Jesshope, Wiltshire My absolute favourite place to eat during the day is Divine Cafe, a Wiltshire roadside eatery par excellence! Situated on the A4 just west of Avebury, it nestles beneath rolling down land and the White Horse at Cherhill. The cafe is the family run business of Mark and Jane Slingo, whose aim is to provide an alternative to the standard roadside fare by offering home cooked, healthy food with mouthwatering and freshly baked cakes. Jane is a cook with no formal training, just a passion for cooking and sharing food, passed down in the tradition of her family. The sign outside the cafe which reads “Probably the best coffee and cakes in Wiltshire” should read “Definitely” for I’ve certainly had no better. Just thinking about Jane’s Lemon Mascarpone Cake with a cup of smooth, freshly ground pure Arabica coffee lifts my spirits! Approaching the cafe, especially at weekends, the various modes of transport outside reflect the eclectic clientele. In the light, cosy interior I can find myself sitting next to cyclists, bikers or walkers, or other locals like myself who have come for the warmth of the welcome, the consistently good service and the deliciousness of the food. 38

The cafe and its menu (which is very flexible) have a distinct Continental flavour. For example Croque Monsieur; a Parisienne-style ham and cheese melt with Dijon mustard, salad and coleslaw. Another personal favourite to get the taste buds tickled is Bruscetta; available with various toppings drizzled with garlic infused oil on sour dough bread. What choices! For the more traditional palete there is a variety of delicious, freshly prepared sandwich platters or a choice of colourfully presented dishes using Wiltshire’s famous ham with accompanying locally sourced salads. For the sugar lover, there are the cakes often fresh from the oven, or the well crafted desserts. On sunny, warm enough days, there is ample seating outside under the pleasant pergola. On cooler weekends, there can be a wait for inside seating but it’s certainly worth waiting for. My one dissatisfaction is that this very special cafe is not open seven days a week! However I think Divine Cafe speaks for itself and is one of the very best around. For the discerning traveller, I heartily recommend it. ■

Divine Cafe The White Horse Cherhill, Wiltshire 01249 817348 07922 661 201 enquiries@divinecafe.biz

Tell us about your favourite place to eat by writing to us at the usual address or emailing faye@flavourmagazine.com We’ll even give you one year’s free subscription for your troubles!


Nature Nature & Nurture Nurture As the Christmas mayhem begins, we think there’s no better time of year to seek out a little calm before the storm with our selection of treatments from the region’s top spas. Treat yourself, you deserve it...

The Garden Spa at Barnsley House 39


> flavour nature & nurture

Mount Somerset This month Faye Allen takes a trip to Taunton for some relaxation time in a Regency country house that’s recently undergone a face-lift‌

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> flavour nature & nurture

B

uilt by an Italian architect in the early 19th century, this Regency country house has secured a reputation for both its elegant touch and country comfort, placing it as Taunton’s best-kept secret. For the last 20 years von Essen, one of the most successful independent hotel chains in the world, has been running this country gem with a focus on keeping tradition at its heart. Last year however saw the beginning of a huge internal refurbishment for Mount Somerset with an addition of eight new rooms to their modest collection of 11 and a brand new spa with treatment rooms. The responsibility of the re-design fell to Kerry Chapman, von Essen’s chief British designer. Her approach was modern elegance with a touch of the majestic, coupled with gentle, calming colour schemes. A midweek stay meant that we practically had the place to ourselves. This was excellent news when it came to exploring the newly built Garden Spa. All well mannered English reserve could be abandoned in order for every button to be pressed and chamber explored. Before I could let my inner child run riot, I laid back to enjoy the Mount Somerset’s signature treatment collection, a Peaceful Earth Facial and the Peaceful Earth Body Cocoon. Exclusive to the hotel, these treatments promise to deliver one on a peaceful journey to calm the mind and nurture the body. The body cocoon began with a full body exfoliation, followed by an antioxidant warm oil massage. The treatment was a welcomed experience and indeed my skin felt nourished and supple for a couple of days afterwards. The facial was intended for ‘peace of mind and joy of skin’. For a shortterm relaxation fix, this is a treatment you may very well enjoy. Afterwards my skin was glowing and any stress from the day had literally been massaged away. An indulgent treat to be enjoyed for what it is but don’t expect a week’s worth of skin benefits. All products were taken from the comfort zone, sacred nature range. The spa space itself is intimate, with every neatly designed facility in place. Contained within is a sauna, jacuzzi, foot spa, steam room, plunge bucket and my favourite, the Experience Shower. Here you can

surround yourself with monkeys, parrots or grasshoppers, multiple lights and even a couple of temperatures. The spa opens up to the sun terrace where you can relax with your robes on and enjoy a drink and a moment on the sun loungers. Seeing as my stay fell on a night where the essential ingredient to a sun terrace was missing however, I opted for the room instead. We stayed in the Pitminster Garden Deluxe, a newly built room near the back of the hotel. This would be a perfect choice for a sunnier time as it boasts its own private terrace accompanied with hot tub, sun loungers and table and chairs and is also home to the hotel’s resident peacock. The room itself can be enjoyed for its autumnal colours, super King Size bed, roll top bath, power shower and thick and soft bathrobes. Combining comfort and practicality, this room offered a very pleasant stay, despite some very confusing light switches! The hotel’s restaurant boasts two rosettes and Head Chef Stephen Walker has shown a real determination to bring the restaurant’s

food back to what is local and fresh, making regular seasonal changes almost on a daily basis. The fillet of aged English beef with confit potato, spinach and baby carrots, Dorset Blue Vinney beignet and red wine reduction was the high point of the dining experience. Rich and full of flavour, this fillet was cooked to rare perfection, narrowly pipping my dinner guest’s sweet and juicy scallops to the post. We left the Mount Somerset feeling reassured that while von Essen is an increasingly influential collection of hotels, Mount Somerset offers a truly unique experience that would make its Italian forbearer proud.

The Mount Somerset Lower Henlade Taunton Somerset TA3 5NB T: 01823 442500 W: www.mountsomersethotel.co.uk

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> flavour nature & nurture

Barnsley House

Tatler Spa Awards 2010 Winner!

Take the winding pathway through the wilderness garden, descend the steps to the Garden Spa, and from your first step inside you’ll start to unwind. The spa is fully equipped with five treatment rooms, a steam room, sauna, relaxation room and heated outside hydrotherapy pool. Lunch Lunch at Barnsley House is also a real treat. The Garden menu incorporates fruit and vegetables grown in the kitchen gardens at Barnsley House. Dishes include Cara potato soup with fried porcini mushroom; duck terrine with quince jelly and granary toast; whole roasted partridge, baked russet apple, truffle potato & bacon; pumpkin crème brûlée with sable biscuits and marmalade.

Signature treatment The ‘Garden Spa Signature Treatment’ provides a hint of what to expect from The Garden Spa and leading essential oils specials, Aromatherapy Associates, at full tilt together. Designed to reflect the stunning grounds at Barnsley and ‘bring the outside in’, the treatment includes a full body polish, aromatherapy massage and facial with scalp massage. This allencompassing therapy works on all aspects of stress within the body and encourages complete relaxation, easing away tension using the power of pure essential oils. The Garden Spa experience gives you the opportunity to enjoy a morning, afternoon or evening in the spa.

Barnsley House Barnsley Cirencester GL7 5EE

Details Garden Spa Signature Treatment 115 mins, £140.00. Spa Experience, £110.00

T: 01285 740900 W: www.barnsleyhouse.com

Bath Priory The Bath Priory’s Garden Spa is befitting of a luxury country house hotel. The indoor heated pool is beautiful and a poolside sauna and elliptical steam pod complete the picture. As the name suggests, French doors open onto the immaculate gardens, allowing the sunlight to wash over this dreamy space.
 Signature treatment The Garden Spa offers a diverse range of relaxing therapies, performed in one of four serene treatment rooms, including a dual treatment room, perfect for couples or friends. In October 2010 the Garden Spa became the first hotel spa in the UK to launch glotherapeutics, a new line of facial exfoliation treatments. The signature treatment in this exciting range, developed by the spa’s experienced Head Therapist, is

‘The Renewal’, a treatment dedicated purely to delivering amazing results first time and every time. Experience a tailormade exfoliation for the face and hands, followed by a blend of plant extracts and essential vitamins to nurture the skin. To complete the treatment enjoy an Indian face and scalp massage, accompanied by a mini hand peel and massage. This is an invigorating therapy for those who wish to entirely rejuvenate their skin and wind back the years. Lunch Following the tranquility of the Garden Spa, enjoy superb dining in The Priory Restaurant. The seasonal menus offer dishes including pan-fried fillet of Cornish line cod with saffron noodles and passion fruit soufflé with yoghurt sorbet.

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Details 1hr and 20 mins, £100. Lunch is £25.50 for two courses, three courses are £32.00 The Bath Priory Hotel, Restaurant & Spa Weston Road Bath BA1 2XT T: 01225 478395 W: www.thebathpriory.co.uk gardenspa@thebathpriory.co.uk


> flavour nature & nurture

Thermae Bath Spa In the heart of Bath, Thermae Bath Spa is an award-winning Spa where you can bathe in the UK’s only naturally warm, mineralrich waters, just as the Celts and Romans did over 2,000 years ago. Choose from over 50 Spa treatments and packages and 2 or 4 hour sessions including full use of the open air rooftop pool. Signature treatment Thermae Harmony is one of the many new spa package on offer for 2011. It includes a 4 hour spa session, complimentary use of towel, robe and slippers, a two course meal in the Springs Restaurant and then a choice of either the signature treatment; Watsu, a Balinese Flotation and foot massage or a Hot Stones Vichy treatment. The packages and spa sessions are available as gift vouchers and make a great present for friends, family or yourself!

Details £80, 2-4 hours lunch included in price.

Lunch If you want to keep things healthy then why not unwind in our restaurant and enjoy steamed fillet of black bream stuffed with ginger, lemon and crispy vegetables with lemon balm beurre blanc and matchstick potatoes, or a pink grapefruit and rocket salad with Granny Smith apple, locally sourced Bath blue cheese and toasted pine nuts.

Thermae Bath Spa
 Hot Bath Street Bath
 BA1 1SJ T: 0844 888 0844 W: www.thermaebathspa.com

Charlton House The Bannatyne Spa at Charlton House is a unique and luxurious place to visit for those who wish to soothe their mind and soul, relax and recuperate and leave feeling rejuvenated. Whether it’s to relax and unwind, celebrate with friends or simply indulge in some me time, there’s a Bannatyne Pamper Spa Day for you.
 Signature treatment Our New Dry Flotation Spa Day is something not to be missed. The ultimate in personal pampering – an hour in the dry flotation tank will leave you completely relaxed and is the equivalent to three hours’ deep sleep. This luxurious indulgence consists of dry skin brushing, followed by your own choice of one of four wraps. Choose from the Tahitian Bloom which offers deep cleansing and an invigorating exotic lime and ginger salt glow. With the Tropical Milk Treat you can choose between a nourishing foot or hand treatment.For complete muscle relaxation then choose the seaweed wrap, or to detox the system opt for the Cellutox Aroma Spa Ocean Float. As part of the package you will also have access to the Hydrotherapy Pool,

Crystal Steam Room, Experience Showers, Finnish Sauna, Laconium, Ice Fountain and Fitness Studio! Lunch Once having relaxed in the spa, why not take lunch in the conservatory. The newly appointed Executive Head Chef, Duncan McKay and his brigade expertly create menus that change seasonally, prepared with the best locally sourced produce. Enjoy oak smoked salmon, orange and fennel salad, a trio of Bixham market Details Cost £99, Time: 1hr 15 mins 2 courses- £11.95, 3 courses- £15.95

fish with roast vine tomatoes and lemon dressing and finish off with coconut tart and passion fruit syrup.

Bannatyne’s Charlton House Shepton Mallet nr Glastonbury Somerset BA4 4PR T: 01749 342008 W: www.bannatyne.co.uk

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> flavour nature & nurture

Whatley Manor Aquarias the award-winning spa at Whatley Manor offers a tempting and luxurious selection of spa experiences with the aim of restoring both body and mind to new levels of relaxation. The European-style spa is arranged into a series of thermal cabins, treatment rooms and VIP Suite, as well as having a gym, work-out studio complete with a Power Plate and a stylish hydrotherapy pool. Signature treatment The Iyashi Dôme Ritual starts and ends with gentle relaxation in ‘The Tepidarium’ and the ‘Wave Dream Sensory Room’. Following an initial consultation and body composition, lay back and relax cocooned in ‘The Iyashi Dôme’ which begins with a deep cleansing session. Without any aggressive effect on the body, this 30 minute programme eliminates toxins. The Dôme purifies and re-balances the body to its natural state of equilibrium, can aid with slimming and is a perfect post work-out treatment. Lunch Light lunch options include a selection of freshly made paninis served with French

Details £55 for an initial consultation and 30 minute session. A recommended course of ten sessions may be booked at £500. fries (£10.00), warming soups (£8.00) and salads like the salt water prawns bound with mayonnaise scented with tarragon and served with warm blinis and crème fraiche (£18.00). Alternatively a Greek salad with green olives, green beans, feta cheese, tomato and romaine lettuce bound with olive oil (£10.50). Freshly churned icecreams, cakes and Wiltshire cream tea’s are available too.

Whatley Manor Easton Grey Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0RB  T: 01666 822 888 W: www.whatleymanor.com

The Spa at Malvern The award-winning spa at The Malvern harnesses the natural Malvern spring waters to provide a relaxing indoor and outdoor hydrotherapy bathing experience along with a wide range of the latest results driven treatments. This stylish, contemporary spa also offers a choice of heat experiences, a lounge complete with 100-year-old olive trees and a quiet relaxation room where guests can de-stress and relax. Signature treatment The ultimate in non-surgical solutions has arrived in Malvern! Look forward to visible and corrective results in muscle tone, sun damage, acne and lines (both face and body) – without surgery or invasive procedures! No wonder the CACI system is popular in over 6,000 of the world’s leading aesthetic clinics, spas, hotels and health clubs, has gained a big celebrity following and featured on Channel 4’s ‘10 Years Younger’. Now you can choose technology over surgery thanks to the inspired spa team at The Malvern. Sessions are already being booked up – so phone now to make your appointment. Lunch Menu Eating at The Malvern is very much part of the spa experience. The lunchtime menu devised by head chef, Steve Rimmer 44

organic ingredients from local suppliers wherever possible.

includes a healthy selection of exciting salads, sandwiches, freshly cooked hot dishes and homemade desserts. The Malvern sources the highest quality Details Book 5 sessions get the 6th free, or book 10 sessions and get the next two free

Healthy Lunch Menu Samples Sprouted chickpea salad, carrot shavings, mint, winter leaves, chilli & garlic dressing £6.25 Warmed smoked mackerel, beetroot, watercress, toasted seeds, lemon & black pepper dressing £7.95 Organic salmon & watercress fishcakes, soft herb crème fraiche, fresh lime £9.50 Winter Fresh Fruit Platter £5.75

The Malvern Grovewood Road Malvern, WR14 1GD T: 01684 898 290 W: www.themalvernspa.com


> flavour nature & nurture

The Relaxation Centre Whether it is the detoxifying delights of a session in the sauna or steam room, de-stressing with one of their extensive range of treatments, taking it easy in the hot tub or the spa pool, or finding inner peace in the floatation room, everything you need for tranquillity is hidden in a quiet street in Clifton at The Relaxation Centre. Signature treatment The most popular treatment on offer is the Holistic Massage. Holistic’ means ‘whole’, so holistic massage is a massage that treats the whole person from the physical and mental to the emotional and spiritual. By taking a person centered approach, in which they use a range of techniques, our practitioners are able to adapt the treatment to meet the need of each client whether that is a gentle, firm or deep tissue treatment. A massage can help you to feel relaxed and revitalised; or alternatively

you may prefer the focus to be on easing injured, tense or aching muscles. If you have any special requirements for your treatment please let us know at the time of booking. Details Cost: £45 Length: 1 hour

T: 01179 706616 W: www.relaxationcentre.co.uk

Lucknam Park Lucknam Park Hotel and Spa is one of the UKs’ leading country house hotels located in a 500 acres estate just 6 miles east of Bath. The Spa’s contemporary design, wood, marble and glass reflect the stunning setting of Lucknam Park Hotel. Signature treatment This December, admire the frosty Wiltshire landscape from the warm cocooning haven of The Spa at Lucknam Park. Whether for an escape from Christmas shopping, an early Christmas treat, or a welcome alternative to a Christmas party, the Festive Spa Day

package at Lucknam Park is the perfect antidote to the manic month of December. Relax with a coffee and mince pie on arrival, then experience the stunning spa facilities; the 20 metre swimming pool, hydrotherapy pool, experience showers, and thermal cabins. The luxurious hour long treatment that follows is your choice of an Anne Semonin Phyto-Aromatic Facial, a Made-to-Measure Massage, a Carita Radiance Facial or a De-Stress Botanical and Herbal Back Therapy. Lunch Your day also includes a two course festive lunch from the seasonal menu created by award-winning Chef Hrishikesh Desai in the contemporary and stylish Brasserie adjoining The Spa. And we give you a glass of wine!

Details £125 per person, available 1-23 Dec, Mon-Fri. Lunch is included in the price

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa Colerne Chippenham Wiltshire SN14 8AZ T: 01225 740 570 W: www.lucknampark.co.uk

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from the

> flavour xxxxxxx

earth...

but it doesn’t cost it

Introducing our warming new winter menu at The Living Room Bristol Our new winter menu perfectly captures the flavours of the season... ...it’s the quality and value that's preserved

Join us on Sunday - Thursday from 12pm - 7pm and enjoy an introductory 30% off your total food bill! Simply fill in your details below and hand to a member of staff.

name email

telephone house number

postcode

If you'd rather not be the first to hear about other exclusive offers, up and coming events and brand new menus then let us know by ticking the box.

t: 01179 253 993 e: bristol@thelivingroom.co.uk

Explore Lane, Harbourside, Bristol BS1 5TY

www.thelivingroom.co.uk Introductory offer,offer, validvalid until 30th 2010. Valid at Living The Living Roomonly. Bristol Sunday - Thursday 12pm - 7pm only. Valid in conjunction with the main a la carte menu Introductory until 30thNovember November 2010. Valid at The Room Bristol Valid only. SundayValid - Thursday from 12pm - 7pmfrom only.Valid in conjunction with the main a la carte menuonly. 46 essential and subject to availability. Maximum booking size of four people.Voucher must be submitted to redeem this offer. 30% off the total food bill only. Booking only. Booking essential and subject to availability. Maximum booking size of four people. Voucher must be submitted to redeem this offer. 30% off the total food bill only. Cannot be used in Cannot be used inconjunction with any other offer. Cannot be used on any special events. Not valid for Christmas Party bookings. Photocopied, damaged or defaced vouchers cannot be accepted. conjunction with any other offer. Cannot be used on any special events. Not valid for Christmas Party bookings. Photocopied, damaged or defaced vouchers cannot be accepted.


The Three Horseshoes

Three Horseshoes ken

Christmas bookings now being ta

The Three Horseshoes is a 400-year-old country pub tucked away in the beautiful Somerset village of Batcombe, with easy access to Bruton, The Royal Bath and West Showground and only 40 minutes from Bath and Bristol. Open to all, we welcome drinkers, foodies, walkers, dogs and children. Whether it be a quick pint and a pork pie in the bar or a three course dinner in our stunning dining room, you can be sure of a friendly welcome. Attentive service and knowledgeable staff will ensure you have the best possible time, regardless of how long you stay.

The Three Horseshoes Inn, Batcombe, Somerset, BA4 6HE 01749 850 359 www.thethreehorseshoesinn.co.uk info@thethreehorseshoesinn.com

le M A Z O T brasserie

at Whatley Manor Pre-Festive A La Carte Menu Served from 1st – 24th December. Starters from £7.50. Mains from £16.50. Desserts from £8.50 Festive Menu for Christmas Parties £36 includes three-course à la carte menu with crackers and coffee Christmas Eve Dinner – £79 Champagne and canapé reception, four-course candlelit dinner with coffee and Florentine Christmas Day Lunch – £98 Glass of Champagne with savoury pastries served at the table and followed by a traditional five-course lunch with Christmas crackers and coffee New Years Eve Dinner – £140 Champagne and canapé reception, six-course gala dinner and live jazz 26th December and 1st January 2011 £36 includes three-course table d’hote menu and coffee 3rd January 2011 £26 includes three-course ‘Bank Holiday’ lunch menu Call Events on 01666 834 026 or email events@whatleymanor.com to make your Christmas reservations. Early booking is recommended

Le Mazot at Whatley Manor Easton Grey Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0RB T 01666 822 888 E lemazot@whatleymanor.com


> flavour bath christmas markets

BathChristmas Market It’s that time of year again. In the heart of Bath’s main shopping district, 123 traditional wooden chalets full of everything you’ll need to prepare for the perfect Christmas, will adorn the cobbled streets. To celebrate its tenth anniversary, the market will be held for an extra week ensuring you have a bit more time to find the perfect gift for your loved ones. And, what a choice you will have. If you are looking for something extra special to make your Christmas perfect, Bath Christmas Market is the place you’ll find it. All of the retailers sell unique, handcrafted items, many of which are made in the local area. The sound of choirs singing carols drifting through the market, colourful decorations brightening the streets and aromas of mulled wine and cinnamon in the air all create a magical atmosphere and will help to get you in the festive spirit!

Stalls for the Christmas Cook

crepe from Suzette’s Pancakes will satisfy your sweet or your savoury tooth. Fairtrade coffees and teas, mulled cider and flavoured coffees can be sampled as well as a mouth-watering selection of cheeses, chocolates and much, much more.

If you’re a firm believer that food always tastes better outdoors and never more so than on a crisp winter’s day, then you will be able to satisfy your taste buds and give yourself an extra boost of shopping energy with the delicious fare on offer.

A full programme of entertainment will be taking place including carol singers, children’s entertainers and musicians. To accommodate the high demand, there will be three performance areas where you can take a break from the bustling crowds to soak up the atmosphere.

Pick up a hot dog made from British pork and speciality sausages all wrapped up in a freshly made bread roll at Supreme Sausages or perhaps a freshly cooked

Fast becoming known as the Christmas city, let Bath’s well-loved market do all of the hard work, making your Christmas the best and most effortless yet. ■

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Absolutely Cupcakes Chandos Deli Chocolate on Chocolate Condessa Welsh Liqueurs Dorset Sweet Company Fussels Fine Foods Georgie Porgie’s Puddings Nibbles Cheese The Orchard Pig The Punch Brew Company Snowdonia Cheese Company Spencerfield Spirit Company The Spicery Supreme Sausages Trethowan’s Dairy Shop William Baber Wines

Bath Christmas Market takes place between 25 November – 12 December, visit www.bathchristmasmarket.co.uk for more information.


> flavour bath christmas markets

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> flavour swallow bakery

For the last two months, Jennie Clark has been anticipating the opening of The Swallow Bakery in Cheltenham. With pale pink signs and floor-to-ceiling windows all round, it looks like the perfect destination for a mid-morning stop or afternoon tea…

the swallow bakery The setting is a rather bleak 1960s building at the end of the Promenade, but the starkly designed cafe makes the most of the stripped concrete ceilings and bare piping – the theme is urban bakery. The cakes adorning the great glass counters are cheery and fascinating, and the lists of temptations in milkshakes, ice-creams and pastries are endless. We were heartened to see a breakfast and lunch menu in addition to the stacks of colourful cakes – it’s good to know there’s at least the opportunity to be virtuous. Andrew Thomas, the entrepreneur behind the bakery, says he’s been inspired by boutique bakeries in New York and Australia. ‘People have said to me, “well isn’t it just a fad?”, but it’s been a fad in America for the last twenty years! They’re affordable treats – even in tough times like a recession, to go out for a nice cup of coffee and a cupcake doesn’t cost too much.’ He opened the first bakery in Chichester, bringing together local ingredients and seasonal recipes with expert staff trained in French patisserie. Don’t expect a French style though, Andrew is keen to emphasise the lack of ‘pastiche’ – the bakery is cleverly branded, but with the finest homebaked products, it doesn’t need to rely on gimmicks.

The cupcake specialities include ‘Red Velvet’ with deep burgundy ice-cream and summertime strawberries and cream. The chefs also create huge meringues with fruit and chocolate, whoopie pies and special seasonal items – the Hallowe’en pumpkin pie proved a revelation to the bakery’s recent customers. On our breakfast trip, we opted for tea and toast – a pot of leaf tea for two, with handcut fresh bread and homemade preserves. Alas! Cold toast! Neglected for

Cupcake specialities include ‘Red Velvet’ with deep burgundy ice-cream and summertime strawberries and cream. The chefs also create huge meringues with fruit and chocolate, whoopie pies and special seasonal items too long! Once we’d flagged up the error, the second round was perfect, but it was a little disappointing, with so much magical detail on display. As it was marginally early in the day for cake (I hear your objection) we each chose one to take home. For me, blueberry – for him, sticky toffee. My mum – a seasoned Christmas fête baker – was recently

horrified by the price of a cupcake in a trendy Cardiff café. I assured her these days, £1.50 for anything is a bargain! The Swallow Bakery ones start at £1.80, which I still think is more than fair – my blueberry one was no less than magnificent, with gooey fruit at the bottom, the lightest sponge and a swirl of dreamy icing. Good news for us, Andrew says he is looking to expand into the West Country – but he doesn’t want to get carried away: ‘I’m trying to make sure it doesn’t become a big chain – I want to keep the personal relationship with my staff and my customers.’ It wouldn’t take much for The Swallow Bakery to become a country-wide phenomenon, but we’re definitely happy to keep it our delicious secret! ■ Swallow Bakery 81 North Street Chichester West Sussex PO19 1LQ 01243 533008 www.swallowbakery.com

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> flavour xxxxxxx

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> flavour chef profile

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> flavour chef profile

chef profile Name: Laurent Couvreur Head chef and owner of: Casanis Originally from: Nice, South of France Casanis is really down to my wife Jill. She ended up having to do all the hard work to make the business happen and I just turned up to do the cooking! When we moved from London to Bath, we wanted to have a more relaxed family life and I was happy to chef locally for a while – until a fire where I worked made us bring forward our plans to open our own place. Since I was a teenager at culinary school in Nice, I have always dreamed of having my own restaurant. Being able to recreate dishes from my childhood and early experiences in the South of France is what Casanis is all about. Working with Michelin Chef Jacques Chibois in Cannes helped me refine the Provençal style I learned from my mother who cooked wonderful fresh, regional dishes for us. After many years experience working along the Côte d’Azur at haute cuisine restaurants like La Mère Germaine and Rampoldi, I moved to New York, the place where a chef has to go to understand the importance of being customer focused!

Casanis 4 Saville Row Bath BA1 2QP 01225 780055 www.casanis.co.uk

delicious pan bagnat (Niçoise salad in a bap) on the beach in Nice. Having said all that, I love living in Bath. We are privileged to have such an abundance of wonderful produce in the South West and the spring lamb I get from Terry’s family butchers in Bath would definitely give the Sisteron lamb from Provence a run for its money! My fridge at home contains des choses à picorer (nibbles) as that’s all I have time for! There’s a selection of cheeses from Comté to Roquefort, along with saucisson, salad and olives – all of which complement a lovely glass of red wine to help wind down. I’d be lying though if I didn’t own up to enjoying the occasional baked beans on toast between shifts! The kitchen is a unique environment. I still remember trying to hold up a collapsed shelf containing six heavy pans with my left hand, whilst cooking four medium rare steaks with the other. I still don’t know why the kitchen team found it so funny! I’ve cooked for film stars, musicians and even royalty but I always treat the food the same way and do my very best to make people really enjoy their meals.

I try to modernise traditional Provençale recipes by taking the best local ingredients then mixing and matching them with new ideas and customer favourites. When people think of Casanis, I want people to think of honest, hearty food with a touch of quality and finesse and a friendly ambience of unobtrusive efficiency.

I love being a chef and believe you have to have an absolute passion and respect for food to be successful. We have students from a Parisian culinary school in our kitchens every year and I always say that if you love working with food it’s a wonderful career, but if you think you’re working long hours in a restaurant now, then think long and hard before opening your own place.

I miss daily visits to wonderful fresh product markets in France; nibbling on warm fresh Pissaladière on the way home from artisan bakers and enjoying their

My future is one that is still very much centred on food, but the vision also involves sunshine, blue skies, motorbikes and relaxation… ■ 53


> flavour xxxxxxx

Do you need extra staff?

The right staff ensure the success of any event, so for the times when you need a helping hand, Plush Staff is at your service. We offer a fresh approach to our client’s staffing requirements and customer satisfaction is paramount to us. It’s that simple. General Enquiries: 0845 5678 980 Damian: 07505807326 Naomi : 07505734313

www.plushstaff.co.uk info@plushstaff.co.uk 54


> flavour chef for all seasons

Chef For All Seasons This month we catch up with owner of Chef For All Seasons Ray Brizell in the run-up to his busiest time of year… This must be your busiest time of year, how do you prepare? We prepare simply by listening to our clients and making sure that they get the chefs they want, as that gives them the consistency and continuity that’s so crucial during a busy period, it’s important they know that whatever the situation, we’re on hand to try and solve their potential problems.

How did Chef For All Seasons come about? I spent some time working the relief circuit finding out what customers were paying for the chefs compared to what the high street agencies were paying; I concluded that there had to be a fairer system where the chef got a better deal and the client didn’t have to pay through the nose. Do you ever miss being in the kitchen? Honestly, no! I love doing what I do and I don’t really get much time to think about the kitchen. I do the odd shift here and there so I have the best of both worlds – I can pick up my knives as and when I want to. What makes you different from other catering agencies? We don’t really see ourselves as an agency – we prefer to call ourselves freelance chef specialists. Our philosophy is to take a small piece of the cake and ensure we get the best deal for the client and the chef. The fact we only deal with chefs means that we can concentrate fully on both parties’ needs.

Do you manage to find time to have a Christmas of your own? Yes and no. Because we’re a 24/7 service I never switch off, especially as we have clients that hire chefs to cook Christmas dinner for them and their families. I always like to give the chef a call and make sure everything is OK, but I do try to relax when I can. What does 2011 hold for C.F.A.S? This has been a fantastic year for us and we haven’t been affected by the recession (touch wood!) I’m very optimistic that 2011 will bring much more of the same. We’ve built up a credible reputation by proving to clients that they don’t have to incur over inflated prices and that there are other options out there. Our chefs know that they can rely on us to provide them with a decent hourly rate and a steady amount of work too. We’re all about finding solutions. What advice would you give for people planning a large-scale festive bash? Hire a chef from us to help do it for you!

T: 0845 475 0145 W: www.chefforallseasons.co.uk

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Celebrate Christmas at Stanton House Hotel Welcome to Stanton House Hotel where you can enjoy great food and relax with friends, no cooking,no washing-up, just a stress-free celebration.

• Christmas Parties • Sunday Lunch • Mince Pies & Mulled Wine • Christmas Day • Seasonal Lunches • All you can eat buffets Also, special festive accommodation rates Following your festive celebration, why not leave the car and stay the night.

The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, Swindon SN6 7SD Tel: 0870 084 1388 Fax: 01793 861857 email: restaurant@stantonhouse.co.uk

www.stantonhouse.co.uk


> flavour drops by

Since 1851 the Dike family in Stalbridge have played a huge part in the community by providing green groceries and bakery goods to one and all. Five generations later, the baton has been passed on to Andrew Dike, whose father William founded the plans for the superstore. “William was such an inspirational figure. His hard work and passion for bringing an independent supermarket to the area was contagious,” says store manager Adam Vincent. “It took five years of sorting out the legal stuff before we could start work in August 2006. The family then took a blow with the news that he had terminal cancer and wouldn’t see his dream become a reality. Sadly he died August 2007.”

drops by... flavour

Losing William made the Dike family and their loyal team all the more determined to see his dream become a reality. Today, a bench sits in the entrance of the supermarket commemorating the man behind the vision and celebrating his success. A bottle of ale has also been brewed in his memory and can be bought from the store. It’s not only the Dorset community who appreciate the work of this independent supermarket but the industry itself; awarding Dikes with ‘Best Independent Retailer’ and ‘Best Independent Alcohol Retailer’ in the UK. A café serving hot delicious food and fresh coffee often means locals dropping in for a pint of milk have seen whole afternoons disappear in a cloud of cake and chatter. All of the produce is sourced within a 45-mile radius from local producers and those that aren’t mobile any longer to shop at the store can have their shopping delivered free of charge. Dike and Son have maintained their success with consistently high service, a recipe they wouldn’t want to replicate. “The success of this store is down to the community and the team that work in it,” Andrew concludes, “That’s not something you can find just anywhere.” Dike & Son Ring Street Stalbridge Dorset DT10 2NB 01963 362204 www.dikes-direct.co.uk

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Everything you want for Christmas! At Neston Park Farm Shop we’ve got all you need for Christmas under one roof... • Home reared organic meat, free-range turkeys, geese and hams • Farm fresh, locally grown fruit and vegetables • Wonderful selection of cheeses and delicious deli treats • Gifts, wines, beers and luxury chocolate • Enjoy our festive Christmas lunch party menu While you’re here, why not relax and have coffee or lunch at our lovely café? Neston Park Farm Shop Ltd, Bath Road, Atworth, Wiltshire SN12 8HP Telephone: 01225 700881

www.nestonparkfarmshop.com


> flavour the lockhouse

‘f’ for fabulous This month flavour speaks to the Lockhouse on the Portishead Marina who are still reeling from some rather special praise... When so much of today’s food industry can seem mass produced and dull, never before has it been so crucial to support those who champion good food and fight with determination and pride to protect our dining experiences away from low quality convenience. The Lockhouse in Portishead, owned by husband and wife team Martin and Deborah Barnett, is one such venture worthy of recognition. The Lockhouse began two years ago when Martin and Deborah grew tired of being unable to source consistently good restaurants outside of the city centre. When a picturesque venue became available on the emerging Portishead Marina, the duo decided to put Deborah’s front of house experience at Anthony Worrall Thompson’s Kew Grill, to good practice. Martin says: “Deborah really is the figurehead of the business, she works hard and is dedicated to making this place stand out from the competition.” Fortunately, her magic touch seems to be working. The restaurant’s 22-year-old Head Chef

Peter Yarrow is a credit to his age. The awarded rosette – with another one on its way before the year is out – plus the loyal customer base and mouthwatering modern Anglo French menu, is testament enough to this young man’s achievements. And, it seems as if we aren’t the only ones who think so. Gordon Ramsay and the production team behind Gordon’s Best Restaurant have also agreed that Lockhouse is one of the region’s leading lights by choosing to feature them on the show in September. Martin enthuses: “Gordon’s visit made for an exceptional day. The boys in the kitchen were starstruck by him, he is like a god to them so it was a really inspirational experience.” Mr Ramsay was so taken by Lockhouse’s achievements to date that he promised to return on a personal visit with his family and without the cameras in the next couple of months. “Everyone felt excited and privileged,” Martin continues, “It was a boost at a time when the effects of the recession can be felt, and proves that we really are on to something special here.” ■

Upcoming events at The Lockhouse Wine Tasting Evening, 25 November A very special evening with world exclusive wines. £39.95 a head. Festive Party Menu, 1 November – 31 January Enjoy the best of the season with a very special menu. £30 a head.

The Lockhouse Lockside Portishead North Somerset BS20 7AF 01275 397272 www.thelockhouseportishead.co.uk 59


> flavour the art of sushi

Take one for the team: Luke Narroway demonstrates he’s a man of many talents

The art of

sushi

Blurring the boundaries between food and an art form, sushi is a food phenomenon that has spread well beyond its native Japan across the globe, building up a following of even the most unlikely enthusiasts along the way...  Known for being a super healthy and delicious meal option, sushi has a long and impressive heritage. It’s been eaten for centuries by the Japanese and began to filter through the western channels in the mid 19th century as a form of elegant and healthy fast food. It’s also a delicate cuisine that demands dedication and specialist skills; a fully trained sushi chef can take anywhere up to 12 years to master the art of this increasingly popular food. Consequently, sushi making courses have sprung up across the country to accommodate those with a desire to tap into their expertise.

The heart of the Cotswolds might be a far cry from the bright lights of Tokyo, but Foodworks Cookery School is proud to champion the art of sushi with regular courses for the inquisitive and health conscious. The latest students to put their sushi skills to the test was in fact the English rugby team, a band of men who know all too well about the importance of a healthy diet. The team promoted the benefits of preparing sushi from scratch with sushi master Mitsuhiro Karino, Executive Head Chef of Stanton House Hotel in Swindon, offering an evening of entertainment for all those involved.

Team shot: The popularity of sushi reaches far and wide 60

Born in Japan, Mitsuhiro spent 12 years training at a Kaiseki restaurant in Tokyo before moving on to prepare meals for VIP guests at the Honda head offices. Now at Stanton House he shares his expertise with other UK based chefs as well as any enthusiastic rugby player. “Having to explain how delicate you must be with the rice to a burly group of players made me smile,” Karino says, “Making sushi is fun, it’s great to see new people enjoying it, especially the team.” Keeping the nutritionist happy is a staple part of the team’s job, though guilty pleasures of burgers and beers were admitted to after the season finishes. England Saxons player Luke Narraway was quick to get stuck in and revel in his efforts: “Sushi is a great food for us to eat, it’s full of protein, omega-3 and vitamins which improve energy levels. It also looks great on the plate!” The healthy eating concept of Japanese cuisine has always been intriguing to the west, but with a wide selection of sushi bars and restaurants to chose from, diners often encounter westernised versions of the real thing. For those with a taste for the truly authentic, Karino’s efforts can be sampled at Stanton’s Mt Fuji restaurant.


> flavour the art of sushi

How to make sushi Invite your friends over for an evening of guilt-free fun by following these simple steps from sushi master Mitsuhiro Karino…

When serving sushi make sure that you display them in pairs: this represents peace

Ingredients Japanese rice Sushi vinegar Wasabi Gari (pickled ginger) Soya sauce Fresh fish   Method 1 Cook rice as per packet instructions. 2 Add vinegar – the sushi rice will mould best when slightly warm. 3 Slice fresh fish into rectangles about 5cm by 4cm (keep sliced fish the same way up).

4 First dip your hands into a bowl of water and clap off excess water. 5 Place a strip of fish in your left palm. 6 Smear a pinch of wasabi on to the fish. 7 In your right hand pick up a ball of rice and place on to the fish. 8 Flip the Nigiri over. 9 Lightly squeeze with two fingers on the top. 10 Turn top to tail and lightly squeeze again with two fingers on top. 11 Turn top to tail and lightly squeeze the sides. 12 Serve with soya sauce and gari.

A helping hand Sushi courses will start again at Foodworks Cookery School in the New Year, the perfect way to kick start a healthy 2011. In the meantime, book a course with internationally renowned master baker Maurice Chaplais or brush up your Christmas gourmet skills with a wide selection of courses to help prepare you for the festive season. T: 01242 870538 www.foodworkscookeryschool.co.uk

Stanton House Hotel The Avenue Stanton Fitzwarren Swindon SN6 7SD T: 08700 841388 W: www.stantonhouse.co.uk 61


Lovejoys Wholesale

THE LOVELIEST fISH &cHIpS In THE SOUTH WEST!

papa’s fish restaurant a n D t a K e aW aY

Independently voted by Daily Mirror readers as the Best Fish & Chips in the South West!

~

Recent winners of The Regeneration Partners hip and Weston Mercury and Star FM’s Business of the Year Award

Papa’s Fish Restaurant and Takeaway ~ 20 Waterloo Street ~ Weston-Super-Mare ~ BS23 1LN Telephone: 01934 626565 ~ Visit: www.papasukltd.com

• Fruit • Dairy

• Vegetables • Bread

Quality ingredients for restaurant kitchens in the West Wilts and Bath area. Local produce grown exclusively for us including specialist crops.

‘If you are passionate about your food we’d like to talk to you’

01225 708838 www.lovejoyswholesale.com

The Blue Bowl Inn Country Pub & Restaurant Good food, well kept ales and a warm welcome!

off the beaten track but well worth finding Winner - Silver Taste of the West Award 2010 for 2nd year running for its committment to local food Book your Christmas party now! Tel 01278 662629 www.clavelshaybarn.co.uk

The Blue Bowl Inn, Bristol Rd, West Harptree BS40 6HJ

Tel. 01761 221269 www.thebluebowl.co.uk w fo

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> flavour siân blunos

Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.

know your

fruit FRUIT

“An apple a day will keep the doctor away.” Whilst it will certainly take more than a daily apple to keep you healthy, apples are delicious, easy to carry for snacking, low in calories, a natural mouth freshener and are still very inexpensive.There are hundreds of varieties of apples on the market today in all shapes and sizes. They can be sweet, tart, soft and smooth or crisp and crunchy, catering for almost every taste bud out there.

The insoluble fibres hold water in the intestinal tract so cleanse and move the food faster through the digestive tract whilst the phytonutrients in apples can help regulate your blood sugar, making apples an ideal energy booster for your little ones on the go!

It’s a good idea to eat apples with their skin as almost half of the vitamin C content is just underneath the surface of the skin. Most of an apple’s fragrance cells are also concentrated in the skin and as they ripen, the skin cells develop more aroma and flavour.

Cooking for Coco Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious.

To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com

Apples are a source of soluble and insoluble fibre that helps improve bowel function. The pectin and other acids present in apples also aids in digestion.

Apple PURÉE and Fruity Cinnamon Puffs Here is another family favourite and fun for the kids to make too! Be careful and don’t be tempted to tuck into them when they come straight out of the oven – the filling is extremely hot! Serve the puffs on their own, or with thick cream or custard.

remove from the heat. Remove the cinnamon stick. 2 Purée the apple mixture in a food processor or with a hand held blender. Leave to cool, then divide into portions and serve or freeze.

For the Purée: Makes 6-8 portions 225g peeled and cored apple, sliced Juice of ½ lemon 50g sultanas ½ cinnamon stick or ½ teaspoon of dried ground cinnamon

For the Puffs: Makes 8-10 puffs 225g Puff pastry, homemade or bought 225g apple, sultana and cinnamon puree 1 medium egg, beaten A little caster sugar

1 Combine the apple, lemon juice, sultanas and cinnamon in a non-reactive saucepan. Cover with a tight fitting lid and bring to a simmer. Cook slowly, stirring from time to time. After 8–10 minutes, or when the fruit is tender,

1 On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry to a thickness of about 3mm. Then using a 10cm round cutter, cut out as many discs as you can (you should get about 8-10). 2 Place a heaped teaspoon of apple purée in the centre of each pastry dish. Brush

the edges with the beaten egg, fold the disks in half and seal well by crimping with your fingers or using the tines of a fork with the remaining beaten egg and sprinkle with a little caster sugar. 3 At this point, you can either bake or freeze the puffs. If you are not going to freeze them, you need to let the puffs rest in the fridge for at least 1 hour because they will burst open if you bake them straight away. Bake in a preheated oven at 190 °C, 375 °F for 10-15 minutes or until golden brown. 4 To freeze, place them on a tray and put in the freezer. Bake from frozen by placing the tray in a preheated oven at 190 °C, 375 °F. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown. 5 Remove the puffs from the oven and allow to cool on the tray before you serve them.

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> flavour black horse

the black horse A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider. He’s also editor of the website britishpubguide.com

If I drive over the Avon Bridge during holiday season, it always makes me smile to see all the cars parked up at Eastonin-Gordano services. Hordes of people queuing up for service station food at service station prices. If only they knew that, little more than two miles away, lies an absolute gem of a pub in beautiful surroundings offering good value food and, for the passengers at least, a cracking pint to make the remainder of the journey less of a chore. Nestled in Somerset’s Gordano Valley is the hamlet of Clapton-in-Gordano, an ancient farming village which, for a time, was boosted by a thriving local coal mining industry, but which now represents a rural idyll whose slow-paced tranquility remains undisturbed despite its proximity to the West Country’s arterial motorway. And, since around the time of the Battle of Crecy, villagers and visitors alike have sought refreshment in The Black Horse. Although most of the current building dates from the 17th century, it is thought there has been an inn on this site since the 14th century.

The Black Horse Clevedon Lane Clapton-in-Gordano Avon BS20 7RH 01275 842 105 64

Inside is a predominantly flagstoned floor, but with some functional red tiling added. Around the walls are benches that are actually built-in to the interior of the building. Dominating is a big old log fire, with shiny equestriana on the beam across the mantel. This part of the pub cries out for a slightly wheezy Labrador to lie stretched out in front of the fire, looking up only when it hears a packet of pork scratchings being opened. Said dog would be very welcome – to the pub, not the scratchings. The narrow darkwood benches seem to echo with the thump of pewter ale jugs being slammed down by raucous locals through the centuries. Old photos of the pub on the walls only strengthen the sense of history. Your drink is served from a small hatch, and the real ale list reads like a roll of honour of the best-known West Country ales. With famous old names such as Courage Best Bitter and Wadworth 6X complemented by the relative newcomers Butcombe Bitter and Bath Gem. These four residents are joined by a couple of guest ales, perhaps from the Exmoor Brewery in Wiveliscombe, Cornwall’s Sharp’s or St Austell Breweries or Wickwar in Gloucestershire. A particular delight is that two of the beers (usually Butcombe and one of the guests) are tapped straight from the cask behind the bar. Although modern pipe cleaning


> flavour black horse

Raise a glass to... Courage Best Bitter (4%) Originally from Bermondsey, and for a while brewed in Bristol, this is now brewed by Wells & Young’s in Bedford. This much maligned brew actually has a good mix of malt, hops and fruit in its flavour, though the fruit isn’t apparent in its aroma. Really quite dry too, so a good session bitter. Butcombe Bitter (4%) Brewed in Somerset since 1978, this is a bitter whose taste lives up to the name: a truly bitter bitter. There’s a faint hint of lemon in there too, plus a good old whack of malt. And tastes so fresh straight from the barrel. Wadworth 6X (4.3%) Brewed since 1885 in Devizes in Wiltshire. A copper ale which I always think tastes stronger than it is. There’s an autumnal fruity tang to it, but with the malt still very much in evidence, and there’s a pleasant malty aftertaste. Less bitter than the Courage and Butcombe beers, and quite moreish.

methods and hygiene standards mean that real ale served through a hand pump is usually perfectly good, there is a genuinely intoxicating purity about a beer that is served straight from the barrel in which it has been fermenting. You really do get the beer, the whole beer and nothing but the beer, and consequently a much more natural flavour. Beyond the main bar area is a snug, with ornate high-back seating and, on one window, a set of bars that bear testament to the room’s previous use as the village lock-up for drunks and other miscreants.

History does not relate whether the bar and gaol operated at the same time, but it would seem a very efficient system if they did. Food is kept very simple, but very well prepared and presented. Expect a variety of baguettes, baps and soups, a ploughman’s lunch or perhaps simple chicken or vegetarian meals. This is restricted to lunchtimes so evening visitors should eat first or be prepared to fight off that Labrador for the leftovers! ■

Bath Gem (4.1%) From Warmley in Bristol. Caramel is the first word that springs to mind. It’s that mid-brown, almost amber colouring and malty aroma. It’s a really clever brew too, because as you drink it it’s all fruit and hops and full of flavour, but then as you drain the last drop and utter a satisfied ‘aaah’, you sense a dryness in the mouth that sends you back for another. Mole’s Black Rat Cider (6%) Made in Sandford, Somerset. A traditional, unpasteurised cider that, unlike many sparkling ones, actually smells of apples. It looks bright and welcoming, and the flavour has none of that eye-twitching bite that some traditional ciders have. This means it drinks very easily but treat it with respect, as the strength will sneak up and trip you over on the walk home.

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> flavour rachel allen

This month we talk to the woman affectionately known as the ‘Irish cooking Queen’ about her hometown, easy entertaining and making baking sexy… Why did you choose to attend the Ballymaloe Cookery School at the age if 18? One summer holiday I helped out a friend with some outside catering and I loved it. I concluded that even if I went on to do something else, I should know how to cook. Ballymaloe has always been very well known in Ireland so I applied there. I didn’t know very much about their ethos at the time, other than it was an organic farm, but the little I did know I intrigued me.

10 questions with...

Rachel Allen What style of cooking did it instil in you? When you go to do a course at Ballymaloe you go right back to basics and you learn all the techniques from scratch. I thought we would be making quite elaborate dishes but instead we learned to make things like a simple potato and fresh herb soup, bread, pastries – I loved every minute. How has Irish cuisine developed do you think? Compared to a lot of countries we don’t have a cuisine as such, though Irish food tends to be more about the produce now, it’s what chefs seem to rave about as well as our long-standing use of offal which has become more popular again. What kind of local produce do you enjoy from County Cork where you live? We’ve got fantastic seafood so I love cooking with our fish and shellfish. We also have some great salami makers, beef farmers, vegetables growers and a huge choice of amazing cheeses. The region’s dairy and the seafood are the definitely some of the best around. 66


> flavour rachel allen

Where would you recommend to tourists on the hunt for good food? I am a little biased but I would definitely say to visit the restaurant at Ballymaloe House followed by a stroll around their lovely gardens where a lot of the produce comes from. There’s a great farmers’ market in Middleton on Saturday mornings and another fabulous new one in Douglas on the same day. The old English market in Cork is supposed to be one of the largest covered markets in Europe, and that’s quite an experience too. Finally, there’s a great vegetarian restaurant in Cork called Café Parisien, it’s a great stopoff once you’ve been round the market. You’re portrayed as a home cook, have you spent time in a restaurant environment? I did years ago after I first trained, but then I moved into teaching and now I consider myself to be more of a cookery teacher, which is really my calling I think. When I’m teaching I always try to remember how I felt when I was enrolled there, so if I’m talking about an ingredient, I’ll try to put it in context by talking about the great places I’ve eaten it in and what flavours you can combine it with – a big part of it is inspiring people. Your new book, Entertaining at Home seems to be about taking the pressure out of being a good host; is that a problem a lot of people suffer with? Definitely – our lives are just so hectic now aren’t they? The thought of coming home to children who haven’t done their homework, a house that needs tidying, a meal that needs cooking then guests that need entertaining can be a bit daunting and terrifying. The mistake a lot of people make is thinking they have to cook a restaurant worthy meal, when if you invite friends round for a ‘casual supper’, then expectations are readjusted from all sides. Try cooking something like a lamb tagine or a warming chicken casserole and the evening can be just cosy and lovely. What store cupboard ingredients couldn’t you live without? Extra virgin olive oil, Maldon sea salt, various types of tinned beans, chorizo and garlic, am I allowed more? Baking is enjoying a real renaissance at the moment, why do think that is? I’d put it down to a few things actually. I think Nigella Lawson is a person who can take a lot of the credit for making baking sexy. The economic downturn has also

Tiramisu This classic Italian dessert is very straightforward to prepare yet looks impressive layered up in individual glasses. Serves 6 Vegetarian Ingredients 1 egg yolk 1 tbsp caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 x 250g tub of mascarpone 200ml (7fl oz) double or regular cream 200ml (7fl oz) strong black coffee, such as espresso 2 tbsp brandy 10–12 boudoir biscuits (sponge fingers), each broken into 3 pieces 1–2 tbsp cocoa powder, for dusting Six medium glasses Method 1 Place the egg, sugar and vanilla extract in a large bowl and whisk to a creamy consistency. Add the mascarpone and cream and continue to whisk until smooth and creamy.

played its part because it’s comforting, cheap and makes a great gift. I often meet people who say that they have a ‘Baking Friday’ in work where everyone brings in their favourite cake – I love that! What’s the easiest show stopper in the book? There’s a recipe for duck legs with a white bean and rosemary purée and wilted

2 In a separate bowl, mix together the coffee and brandy. Dip 2–3 pieces of the boudoir biscuits into the coffee and brandy (just long enough to absorb the liquid, but not so long that they fall apart) and put into the bottom of one of the six glasses. Repeat for the remaining glasses. 3 Add 1 tablespoon of the mascarpone and cream mixture to cover the biscuits in each glass. Follow this with another layer of 2–3 biscuit pieces, dipped again in the coffee and brandy, finishing with another layer of mascarpone and cream. 4 Dust each glass with cocoa powder and place in the fridge to chill for at least 1 hour (or up to 24 hours). Take out of the fridge 10 minutes or so before serving (so they aren’t too chilled) and dust with a little more cocoa powder to serve.

greens with garlic and anchovy crumbs – that’s so seasonal and trust me, so simple too! ■

Catch Rachel Allen at this year’s BBC Good Food Winter Show, packed full of exhibitors, celebrity chefs and live demonstrations dedicated to the festive season. The show takes place at NEC Birmingham, 24-28 November. 67


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Flavour Magazine November 2010