for people who love local food
South West | Issue 61
:V\[O>LZ[+YPURPUN A guide to our local alcoholic drinks producers
Christmas is coming Top local ideas for Christmas meals out, gifts and more
(UV]LYUPNO[Z[H` MVY[^VH[3V^LY :SH\NO[LY4HUVY
+PUULY -VY;^V Our pick of the best romantic dinner venues
Your regular Greenliving edition
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> ﬂavour contents Editor Emily Knight Email: emily#ﬂavourmagazine.com Art Director Farrah Fortnam Email: design#ﬂavourmagazine.com
Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda#ﬂavourmagazine.com Paris Bielby Email: Paris@ﬂavourmagazine.com Contributors Nick Harman, Angela Mount, Sam Donati Editorial Assistant Isabel Nash Email: isabel@ﬂavourmagazine.com Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.ﬂavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter#ﬂavourmagazine.com For competition entries Email: competitions#ﬂavourmagazine.com
© Copyright 2012 ﬂavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of ﬂavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, ﬂavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of ﬂavourmagazine.com ﬂavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, ﬁnancial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter#ﬂavourmagazine.com Visit: www.ﬂavourmagazine.com
Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any speciﬁcally stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the ﬁrst entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notiﬁed by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. ﬂavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is ﬁnal and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspeciﬁed extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from ﬂavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.
welcome As the summer draws to a close, we’re turning our thoughts to all things cosy and warm in preparation for the drop in temperature that we are likely to start seeing! Speaking of cosy, we’ve been doing our research into the top places to enjoy a romantic meal for two (page 45), including a review of the fantastic The Dining Rooms in Bristol.
In Season Tom Bowles brings us the best of the season’s produce
22 Filini Emily Knight enjoys an Italian meal in Bristol’s city centre 25 South West Drinking Exploring the best of the region’s drinks producers
It seems a little wrong to be thinking about Christmas this early… but I’m afraid we are. If you’re looking for somewhere to celebrate your Christmas party, buy Christmas gifts or food and drink for your Christmas dinner table, our ‘Christmas is Coming’ feature (page 33) will help. After our cider feature last month, we decided that we shouldn’t leave out all of the other great drinks producers in the South West, and so put together our South West Drinking Guide (page 25) to help you to ﬁnd some great local companies. All this, alongside our usual reviews, recipes and more…
33 Christmas is Coming… Start to plan your Christmas parties, drinks and more
42 Mezze at The White Lion Sam Donati heads to Portishead for the evening
45 Dinner for Two Ideas for a romantic evening meal in the South West
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If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at ﬂavour then email enquiries'ﬂavourmagazine.com
[OPZTVU[O VALE HOUSE KITCHEN Vale House Kitchen set to work with some of the UK’s top rural talents Tim Maddams, former head chef at River Cottage, Neil Keep, professional European ﬂy ﬁsher, Robin Rea, owner of Rusty Pig and Frank Shellard, a renowed West Country shoot organiser, are just a few of the high-proﬁle names that will be tutoring courses at Vale House Kitchen, a unique country skills and cookery school opening this September near Bath. Set in the village of Timsbury, owners Bod and Annie want Vale House Kitchen to give the unique chance to come and learn not only how to cook local produce, but also how to hunt, forage and ﬁsh for the raw ingredients.
COMPETITION WINNERS Congratulations go to Sally Denning, who wins a day ticket to The Big Feastival and a
To see a list of all the Vale House Kitchen courses please visit the website: www.valehousekitchen.co.uk Vale House Kitchen is due to open in September 2013.
WIN! A ONE-NIGHT STAY PLUS DINNER AT LOWER SLAUGHTER MANOR Win a night away on us, and enjoy a meal to remember at Lower Slaughter Manor. In the heart of one of the prettiest villages in the Cotswolds, Lower Slaughter Manor combines opulent interiors with traditional charm, attentive service and a relaxed ambience in which to enjoy your stay. The prize, worth £580, comprises one night’s dinner, bed and breakfast for two, staying in a deluxe room. Dinner will be a ﬁvecourse meal from the table d’hôte menu. The winner will be able to enjoy their stay on any night from Monday to Thursday, and the prize does not include drinks. Reservations will be taken subject to availability. For your chance to win, email competitions@ﬂavourmagazine.com, with ‘Lower Slaughter’ in the subject line and your full contact details in the email body. Good luck! www.lowerslaughter.co.uk 4
Westons cider hamper
CALLING BATH SECOND ANNUAL YOUR FAVOURITE BETTER FOOD FESTIVAL, RESTAURANT NEEDS YOU!
14TH–21ST SEPTEMBER 2013
Do you have a chosen restaurant, café or deli in Bath that you feel deserves recognition for its excellence? Is there a local food or drink producer who makes you proud? If so, here is your chance to let everyone know. Guide2Bath is launching the Bath Good Food Awards 2013 and inviting all residents to vote for their favourite restaurant to win an award in a number of different categories. Voters are also encouraged to nominate local heroes in the Local Producers awards. After public voting, a panel of judges will independently assess the ﬁve top businesses in each category, made up of some of the most reno wned people in the industry. The hopeful nominees will attend the exclusive awards dinner at Bath Racecourse on 27th October. This year’s judging panel includes Xanthe Clay (Telegraph), Martin Blunos (Great Food Live, Food Uncut, Saturday Kitchen), Richard Bertinet (The Bertinet Kitchen), Dhruv Baker (MasterChef 2010 Winner), Emily Knight (Flavour), Hrishikesh Desai (Lucknam Park), Graham Cox (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) and Jenny Chandler (The Real Taste of Spain).
Bristol’s award-winning organic food stores and café are promoting organic farming and local food this September in a weeklong series of events including farm visits, a panel discussion, a family ‘pub quiz’, a cookery talk and a chance to meet some local producers. Managing Director Phil Haughton says, “We want to celebrate organic food, farmers, nature, weather and the harvest, because we work with some amazing people who frankly deserve to be made a fuss of every now and then. The Better Food Festival is becoming the Bristol alternative to the national Organic Food Festival.” These events are raising money for Avon Wildlife Trust’s Feed Bristol project. The Better Food Company has heralded organic food and farming for some 15 years, under the leadership of Phil Haughton, himself a member of the Soil Association’s Board of Trade. “We’ve always tried to be more than just a shop,” says Phil. “We are proud to be working with the best suppliers and producers around Bristol. We’re well placed to serve the community with information and inspiration, as well as some of the best artisan cheese and organic bread! We want all the people of Bristol to know where to come for food and other goods that support wildlife and are packed with health and vitality.” Details of the week’s events can be found on their website, www.betterfood.co.uk.
To vote online, visit www.bathgoodfood.co.uk/vote.html
DELI OF THE MONTH QUEEN STREET DELICATESSEN, WELLS Based in the picturesque city of Wells, Queen Street Delicatessen is owned and run by Dan Holland: a man whose dreams of a foodie career became a reality when he jumped at the chance to buy the local deli when it was put up for sale. Since then, Dan has worked tirelessly to create a deli that offers a wealth of ﬁne food and local produce, stocking a range of products from both Somerset and further aﬁeld. Expect to ﬁnd local ice cream, soups, sausages, bread, cheeses and more, with local suppliers including companies such as Brown Cow Organics, Ooh! Chocolata, The Sausage Shed, Miles Tea & Coffee, In A Pickle and more. For more information, visit www.queenstreetdeli.co.uk. 5
> ﬂavour news
THE BRISTOL HOME FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL TO TAKE PLACE ON OCTOBER 26TH–27TH The Bristol Home, Food & Drink Festival, now in its third year and organised by Nationwide Exhibitions, will showcase the very best that the West has to offer including a myriad of top local chefs, food and drink producers and beautiful homewares. Visitors will have the opportunity to enjoy live cookery demonstrations by two Michelin-starred TV chef Martin Blunos, and other award-winning local chefs including Josh Eggleton, Chris Wicks and Vincent Castellano.
Gordon Jones is head chef at Bath’s Menu Gordon Jones - a restaurant offering ‘surprise menus’ for lunch and dinner. Flavour caught up with Gordon to see what’s currently on the agenda. The lovely thing about my restaurant is that you get to meet lots of amazing people. We recently had a couple in from Scandinavia, who were commenting on the monkﬁsh liver we had on at the time. It turned out that the gentleman himself used to be a ﬁsh supplier in Norway! As he had never tried monkﬁsh liver before (apparently they only eat cod’s liver which is a completely different ﬂavour), he was very impressed with the taste of it and also surprised about the variety of ﬁsh we have available to us in this country. And this is the best thing about having an open-plan kitchen, when there is time, which isn’t always. I try my hardest to get to know the customers who visit us. It’s a great opportunity to get feedback directly from our guests on any new dishes. Guides aside, it is the customer’s opinion that matters the most to me. I would say that the complexity of the menus is unique to my cooking style and hopefully this is also the thing that our customers appreciate the most. With every dish I aim to challenge people’s palates, without losing sight of how everything must ﬁt together. For example, my most recent creation – chestnuts, cabbage and pumpkin – sounds a little odd as a dessert, but never fear, there is always method to my madness! Let the chef surprise you! www.menugordonjones.co.uk 6
This year a fabulous pop-up restaurant will take place on the evening of October 26 which will see students from City of Bristol College working with top local chefs to cook and serve a fabulous feast with wine paired to each course. Tickets are available from the website. In addition, local producers will be holding an array of contemporary food and drink masterclasses in the demonstration theatres. Exhibitors include food, drink and home brands, such as external security solutions, water puriﬁcation systems and garden gazebos as well as brands such as Robert Welch Knives and Bramley & Gage Liqueurs. Nigel Stevens, Exhibition Organiser for Nationwide Exhibitions, commented: “It is really exciting to be majoring on food this time in a city with such a vibrant local food scene. The festival will provide a unique opportunity for foodies and home lovers to discover new products and ideas in a fun and friendly environment.” Entry to The Bristol Home, Food & Drink Festival is £9. The event takes place on 26th–27th October at the UWE Exhibition and Conference Centre. www.homeandfoodfestival.co.uk
> ﬂavour news
THE BAVARIAN BEERHOUSE OPENS IN BRISTOL The Bavarian Beerhouse is pleased to announce the opening of its ﬁrst restaurant in Bristol. The new venue – the third Bavarian Beerhouse in the UK and the ﬁrst to open outside London – is situated in the city centre on Queen Charlotte Street. The public is welcomed in to experience the restaurant’s authentic, original and unique Bavarian offerings, from the hearty food, ice-cold lagers and ‘oompah-tainment’ through to the waiters and waitresses in traditional costume. A full beer, gastro and entertainment concept, the Bavarian Beerhouse serves traditional Bavarian dishes such as freshly baked pretzels, sausages of all kinds, schnitzels, meatballs and Bavarian cheeses. Guests can also go along just for drinks, and are able to enjoy popular German and Bavarian beers such as Krombacher Pils Bier and Erdinger Wheat Bier, served in traditional glasses like steins. Sabine von Reth, founder and owner, commented, “We are very pleased to be opening our ﬁrst restaurant outside London in Bristol. We feel we have found the perfect marriage of location and venue; Bristol is a buzzing, vibrant city with great links to the surrounding areas. We would like to thank everyone for the warm welcome we’ve already received and we are looking forward to raising a glass and saying ‘Prost!’ to the people of Bristol!” www.bavarian-beerhouse.co.uk
BRISTOL BEER WEEK: OCTOBER 3–9 Bristol Beer Week is a celebration of everything beery in the West Country. A week-long programme of beer festivals, meet-the-brewer events, food and beer tastings, education sessions, brewing demonstrations and anything anyone can think of to do with beer and the West Country. Bristol Beer Week is the brainchild of Lee Williams and Stephen Powell; two Bristol-based beer writers who’ve made it their mission to put the city’s thriving beer scene ﬁrmly onto the national and international beer map. Bristol Beer Week is a collective event. The organisers have pledged to promote the week with a central website, an events calendar and a marketing campaign. In return, Bristol’s beer venues and breweries have agreed to organise their own events across the city to create a week-long beer calendar for city dwellers and beer tourists alike. Participation in Bristol Beer Week is completely free but, like many modern enterprises, Lee and Steve have decided to employ crowd-funding techniques to raise capital to ﬁnance their marketing campaign. Their funding page at Indiegogo (www.indiegogo.com/projects/bristol-beer-week) is the place to go for unique T-shirts and a number of special ‘perks’ that have been kindly donated by Bristol’s beer community. For more information, visit www.bristolbeerweek.co.uk. 7
> ﬂavour in season
)XXTM[ In the UK we are responsible for developing over 2,300 different varieties of apple for eating, cooking and, of course, making cider. Apple growing is something we are among best in the world at so make sure we keep it that way and always buy British when in season. My favourite eating apples are the russet, which is just the epitome of autumn with their golden-brown shades and rough, ‘russeted’ texture. When buying freshly picked British apples you can be sure that they haven’t been maturing for months in cold rooms or polished with wax to make sure they survive the journey across the world, they will be juicy and delicious, just as they should be.
ZQOP\ *]\\MZV]\;Y]I[P One of the most versatile vegetables of the season, this squash lends itself beautifully to all sorts of autumnal treats. It is thought to have originated from Central and South America although it is now widely used around the world in curries, pasta and soups. Butternut squash is one of the most popular winter squashes and is often a welcome replacement for some of the summer varieties such as courgette and cucumber, particularly as salads tend to get replaced by more hearty alternatives in the colder months. It is just about ripe and ready when the skin appears very hard and almost impenetrable. When picking one make sure it is free of bruising and cuts as it will rot quickly. A perfectly kept squash will keep for months in a cool, dry and well ventilated spot.
> ﬂavour in season
8MIZ[ The English pear is a real autumnal treat. Our most popular is the tender and juicy Conference variety which is said to take up ninety per cent of pear production in the UK. Other varieties include Williams, Comice, Concorde and Worcester Black. They are usually picked just under ripe to develop after but they must be eaten ripe as that is the only way you can truly enjoy the pear. They do turn to mush very quickly however, so keep a close eye on them! Look for undamaged, slightly ﬁrmer pears with russeting on the surface. When ripe they should be mellow and beautifully scented with a subtly granular texture.
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: #hartleyFarm
,IU[WV[ Damsons are at their best at the end of August and through September. They have a vibrant dark blue to almost indigo colour and are often very juicy. However, damsons are very sour and because of this aren’t really eaten raw but yield a deliciously sweet ﬂavour when cooked. They can be quite versatile and are most commonly associated with jellies, jams, chutneys and also make a great substitute for sloe in a homemade damson gin. When picking look for ﬁrm and juicy fruits and treat like most other soft fruits. They can be kept in a fridge for a couple of days but make sure you give them a good wash before you start to utilise this wonderful ingredient.
INGREDIENTS MARINADE: 1kg chicken ﬁllets, cubed
METHOD Cook the apples in 3 cups of water for 30 minutes, until mushy.
1/2 cup natural yogurt
Use a hand blender to purée, cover and refrigerate for 3 hours.
2 bramley apples, peeled and cored 21/2 tsp fresh ginger and garlic paste 50ml mustard oil 21/2 tsp salt 11/2 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp garam masala 1/2 tsp chilli powder 2 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp sweet paprika powder GARNISH: 11/2 teaspoons chat masala
Blend the yogurt and the apple purée with a whisk, then add the other marinade ingredients. Mix well. Add the chicken ﬁllets and ensure that they are well covered with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Preheat oven to 180°C. Place the chicken ﬁllets on a rack with a drip tray underneath. Cook for 15 minutes. When brown on top heat for 5 minutes on each side. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with chat masala. Serve with chutney. www.meluha.co.uktchen.com
)\[[LYU\[:X\HZO 7HUJL[[H:V\W INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, ﬁnely chopped Pinch of smoked paprika 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 medium red chilli, deseeded and roughly chopped 700g butternut squash (about 11/2 butternut squash), peeled and cut into chunks 400ml/14ﬂoz fresh vegetable stock or (2 tsp vegetable bouillon powder dissolved in water) 150g/51/3oz pancetta, cubed (or chorizo sausage, diced) 125ml/4ﬂoz Greek Style Natural Yeogurt Freshly ground black pepper to season 3 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped
METHOD Heat the oil in a large pan and cook the onion, paprika, garlic and chilli over a low heat for 3-4 minutes until soft. Add the butternut squash and stir for another 2 minutes. Pour in the stock, bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer for 15-20 minutes until the butternut squash is tender. Transfer to a blender or food processor and process in batches until smooth. Chop the pancetta into small dice (remove any skin). Fry the pancetta or chorizo in a pan (without any oil) for 1-2 minutes until lightly golden. Return the soup to a clean pan. Stir in the pancetta or chorizo and Yeogurt. Simmer gently for a couple of minutes until hot. Season to taste. Ladle into bowls and sprinkle over the chopped coriander to serve.
> ﬂavour in season recipes
THE ACORN VEGETARIAN KITCHEN’S
+HTZVU4LTIYPSSV INGREDIENTS 2 kg damsons
METHOD Put the damsons and water into a large pan and simmer gently until completely broken up.
200g water caster sugar (see recipe for quantities)
Push through a colander and weigh the pulp – for every 400g of pulp add 350g caster sugar and return to the pan. Cook until very thick and a line is made when a spoon is drawn through the pan. Pour into a tray lined with baking parchment to set.
7PJRSLK7LHYHUK/HaLSU\[Z^P[O *OPJRWLHZ8\PUVHHUK+H`SLZMVYK)S\L INGREDIENTS 250g chickpeas 250g quinoa 120g toasted hazelnuts 100g sunﬂower seeds, toasted in a dry pan FOR THE PICKLED PEARS: 2 ﬁrm pears, peeled but with stalks left on
METHOD Soak the chickpeas in water overnight, then rinse and drain. Half ﬁll a medium pan with water, add the chickpeas and bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 40 minutes or until tender. Drain and transfer to a large bowl to cool. Boil water in a medium pan and add the quinoa, then turn heat down to simmer. Cook for 5 minutes; remove from heat and leave to stand for 5 minutes. Drain and transfer to separate bowl to cool.
2 tsbp sugar 100ml white wine vinegar Half a red chilli, split and seeds removed
Put the pears into a pan with the sugar, vinegar, chilli and 800ml of water – the liquid should cover the pears. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes until the pears are tender. Leave to cool in the liquid, then remove the stalks, cut in half and remove the cores. Cut each half into 8 lengthways. Toss together the quinoa, chickpeas, pears, nuts, seeds, olive oil, lemon juice and zest, and parsley. Cut the cheese into rough cubes and fold lightly into the salad, and serve. Taken from A Love for Food: Recipes and Notes for Cooking and Eating Well by Daylesford, published by 4th Estate, price £30. 11
> ﬂavour fab foodie reads
MHIMVVKPLYLHKZ For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
PICK OF THE MONTH!
A LOVE FOR FOOD: RECIPES AND NOTES FOR COOKING AND EATING WELL DAYLESFORD WITH SHEILA KEATING, FOURTH ESTATE, £30
This book captures the very essence of Daylesford, which promotes real, quality food. Daylesford Farm is renowned for raising sustainable, ﬂavour-packed produce and creating wonderful healthy dishes. Including recipes for traditionally crafted breads and cakes to delicious dishes of meat and game each carefully crafted and accompanied by beautiful photography of the rustic surroundings in Gloucestershire. A Love for Food heralds the farm’s philosophy and award-winning recipes whilst inspiring you to live healthily and simply throughout the food calendar year.
MICROGREENS: HOW TO GROW NATURE’S OWN SUPERFOOD FIONNA HILL, FRANCES LINCOLN LTD PUBLISHERS, £12.99
Microgreens have become the cuttingedge (hedge? he he) garnish to gourmet dishes, offering a multitude of vibrant hues, textures and distinct ﬂavours, ranging from mild and subtle to spicy, hot or nutty.
Microgreens: How to Grow Nature’s Own Superfood provides detailed information on planting and harvesting for 25 popular vegetables and herbs, along with recipe ideas. As well as this though, the trained ﬂoral designer has added chapters on nutritional values and encouraging children to get green-ﬁngered.
THE SQUARE - THE COOKBOOK, VOLUME 2: SWEET
THE VIETNAMESE MARKET COOKBOOK
PHILIP HOWARD, ABSOLUTE PRESS,
VAN TRAN & ANH VU, SQUARE PEG, £20
BLOOMSBURY PUBLISHING PLC, £30.00
This is the second volume of the extraordinary work from two Michelinstar chef Philip Howard. His lifetime of dedication and creativity has gone into writing this monumental work of gastronomic creativity and technical expertise. The Square: The Cookbook Volume 2: Sweet gives precise instructions on how to create food of top Michelin standard featuring brilliant dishes such as his signature Brillat Savarin cheesecake with passion fruit and lime, and lemon posset with a blueberry compote and warm vanilla beignets. Howard’s incredible second volume features a full repertoire of sweet recipes, each accompanied by beautiful photography.
Street-food entrepreneurs Van and Anh bring you contemporary Vietnamese cooking for modern home kitchens. Inspired by the bustling markets of Vietnam, this easy-to-follow guidebook shows the exotic foodie how to make deliciously authentic dishes. With the freshest of ingredients, exquisite ﬂavours and bright colours, these are recipes for everyday meals, sociable sharing plates and comforting broths for one. This is traditional cooking with a modern edge. Van and Anh began their awardwinning street-food in East London’s Broadway Market, and that bustlingly fresh, creative market vibe typiﬁes the cooking in this book.
> ﬂavour loves
1VL :LWO»Z Joe and Seph’s produce a truly innovative range of ﬂavoured popcorn. From sweet toffee apple and cinnamon to moreish French goat’s cheese and black pepper, the posh popcorn connoisseurs have turned the simple snack into a best-selling epicurean feast. Much of the range is veggie friendly and gluten free, which makes for guilt-free goodies. With gorgeous packaging and festive ﬂavours these gourmet treats are ideal stocking ﬁllers. For online purchases and for the full list of ﬂavours, visit the website: www.joeandsephs.co.uk
ÅH]V\Y Loves Looking to try something a little different? Have a look at our round-up of products we’ve recently tried and loved for inspiration...
In 2011 trained chef and passionate foodie Sarah Churchill set up the Artisan Kitchen.
Schokolat provide an innovative and fun range of novelty chocolate products.
In her Gloucestershire kitchen she creates delicious, homemade, award-winning preserves, marmalades, pickles and chutneys. Using the very best natural and local ingredients of the highest quality, Sarah offers exciting culinary creations to add to your cheeseboard or brighten up your breakfast. You can ﬁnd Artisan Kitchen preserves in some of the country’s ﬁnest delis and farm shops or order online at www.theartisankitchen.co.uk
They offer over 50 authentic-looking chocolate tools and kitchen items, all handmade from ﬁnest Belgian chocolate to a high quality standard. These are ideal for Christmas, birthdays, anniversaries, Mother’s & Father’s Day, corporate gifts and other events. The products are all hand crafted, helping to give them their authentic rustic and aged look. Visit: www.schokolat.co.uk
> ﬂavour loves
;OL;HZ[L <THTP *VSSLJ[PVUHUK)VTIH??? Laura Santtini is among the world’s leading experts in ﬂavour and an award-winning cookbook author. Bomba XXX is the world’s ﬁrst triple-concentrated, extra-strength tomato paste, perfect stirred into soups and stews, or in a Bloody Mary for more depth. The Taste #5 Umami Collection consists of an Umami Paste, a Far Eastern Vegetarian Umami Paste and Umami Dust. All combine incredibly umamirich ingredients such as porcini mushrooms, Parmesan and tomatoes to add greater depth of ﬂavour to all sorts of everyday meals. For more information and recipes, visit www.laurasanttini.com
9VSS`»Z)YV^UPLZ Weymouth-based Rolly’s Cake Company is the brainchild of Helen Rollinson, supplying award-winning brownies to its customers by post. Handmade and baked to order, wrapped and placed in a beautiful presentation box, the brownies are packed in a tube before posting to avoid any damage. Each box contains six pieces, weighing just over 400g. Helen’s brownies are available in caramel, double choc, chilli, orange and peppermint ﬂavours – with all also available as gluten-free options. We tried the gluten-free chocolate and orange brownies and can’t fault them: perfectly gooey in the middle and with a wonderful depth of ﬂavour – far superior to many gluten-free options that we have tried in the past! Visit: www.rollysbrownies.co.uk
@LV=HSSL`)SVVK 6YHUNLHUK*HYHTLS Yeo Valley is introducing Blood Orange and Caramel: their latest 450g limited edition ‘yeogurt’ that will be on shelves from September for a limited time. Inspired by the majestic autumnal tones, the recipe for this thick and creamy whole milk yogurt is a rich blend of juicy blood orange with rich sticky-sweet caramel sauce. Yeo Valley yogurts are made with British organic milk from the Yeo Valley farm and farms from the Somerset-supplier’s cooperative, OMSCo, with whom Yeo Valley ethically trade. Visit: www.yeovalley.co.uk
BUTCHER’S Great Steaks Jon Thorner is the founder of Jon Thorner’s Ltd and is South West Chairman of the Q Guild of Butchers association. The awardwinning businessman has a farm shop near Shepton Mallet, ﬁve butchery counters across the South West and makes fantastic pies...
Nothing beats a great steak, but sometimes you need to be a butcher to know which steak is which! The price differs greatly too, driven by availability and popularity. Here are some of the more well-known steaks you will ﬁnd at your butchers. RIB-EYE STEAKS From the whole rib of beef, the blade bone is removed along with the ﬁnger bones, creating a boneless rib of beef. The fat is removed and trimmed, leaving the eye of the fore rib to cut a beautiful thick steak from. Rib-eye steaks are large and slightly rounded carrying a little more fat than other types of steak but are the most ﬂavoursome and very tender.
Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop Pylle, Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA 01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk
SIRLOIN STEAKS Sirloin comes from the wing end of the rump and loin. Firstly the bone needs removing, before trimming any excess fat. A line of gristle runs along the back of the joint which needs removing. At this stage you can either keep it whole as a roasting joint or cut nice thick steaks. Sirloin steaks are lean, tender and boneless, with a thin layer of fat running along one edge. Suitable for all methods of quick cooking and has a great ﬂavour.
Twitter: #JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorner’s
remove these cuts separately or keep whole to produce a T-bone steak. These steaks are tender and ﬂavoursome. RUMP STEAKS Rump steaks come from the hind quarter. The ﬁllet is the muscle on the inside and the sirloin is on the outside with the rump. The ﬁllet is removed ﬁrst, then the joint is deboned and the rump tail removed. The top muscle is removed as it has a large piece of gristle in it. We cut the ﬁrst steak from this joint for dicing because of the gristle, after which you can cut lovely, large steaks. It is my personal favourite for full ﬂavour. How you have your steak cooked is, of course, an individual preference, but I would always advise a steak to be cooked rare to maximise the tenderness and ﬂavour, as an overcooked steak can end up tough and dry. There are many more different types of steak which come in and out of fashion and from new butchery methods, but these four are traditionally the most common and favoured. Check out our YouTube Channel which will show you how all these steaks are cut.
T-BONE STEAKS T-bones come from the middle section of the rump and loin. A T-bone is actually a ﬁllet on one side of the bone and sirloin on the other. You either RIB-EYE
SIRLOIN RUMP 16
> ﬂavour romy’s kitchen
Romy Gill is a chef, businesswoman, writer, wife, mother and runner! She focuses on the nutrition and healthy aspects of Indian cooking. I’m opening my ﬁrst restaurant… As a working mum, I’ve been striving since the birth of my daughters to build a business that works around my family. I launched Romy’s Kitchen in 2008, offering catering, private dining and cookery classes, along with a range of homemade sauces, pickles and chutneys that those who are based in Thornbury may well recognise from the stalls I’ve held at local markets and food festivals. Since then, my passion for healthy Indian
food seems to have been infectious. I’ve been lucky enough to be able to demonstrate at events such as The Ideal Home Show, Grand Designs, Bristol’s Love Food Festival, the Cheese & Wine Festival and the Dorchester Foodie Show in Dorset. I’ve also been able to travel and take part in New York’s Varli Food Festival and the Date Palm Festival in Abu Dhabi! Opening a restaurant was the next natural step for me: I’m aiming to create a familyoriented restaurant that offers nutritious, well-styled and genuine Indian food.
It’s not been an easy journey. I applied to a huge number of banks for a business loan, but was turned down: it’s a shame that so many banks make it so difﬁcult for small, independent businesses to get off the ground. I even appeared on BBC News to talk about the problems I’d faced! Eventually, NatWest came to my rescue, and I’m working hard with my team to make sure that everything’s in place for August. The restaurant will create a number of local job openings, and will also include a shop area selling my own products and the more unusual Indian ingredients, so that people can make their own authentic Indian dishes at home. It’s a huge step for me, especially as I’m in the ﬁnal stages of putting together my ﬁrst cookbook and creating a pilot for my own TV show! I really want to put Thornbury on the map with my restaurant: ambitious, I know, but there’s such a vibrant, friendly community here that it deserves recognition. I’ll be keeping you updated with progress via the blog as we get closer to the opening date, so keep checking back!
Follow Romy Follow Romy on Twitter @romyskitchen Find Romy on Facebook under Romy’s Kitchen
Visit Romy’s site at: V
> ﬂavour fork to fork
MVYR[VMVYR Steve Tucker is farmer and owner at White Row Farm, Beckington www.whiterowfarm.co.uk With the hot weather we have to make sure there are wallows for the pigs to cool off in: they like to keep the mud on them to keep them cool, like an elephant does, and a shallow wallow does the trick. With this recent burst of unusually hot weather we need to keep a close eye on the livestock. Farrowing goes on as usual as there is no season for this, so it keeps us pretty busy all year round. Most of this year’s planting is now done and again we need to keep soil wellirrigated when plants are at their most vulnerable and just growing. The last things planted are the winter veg, planted at the beginning of August, including our favourite cabbages, Savoys and January Kings. Hard to think about winter veg for most of us right now but they need quite a long time in the ground! Harvest time is coming up and we’ll be harvesting our main cereal crops of wheat, barley and rapeseed. There is a lot of veg and salad about too – abundant
in fact! We’ve got carrots, runner beans, calabrese, cauliﬂowers, beetroot, cabbages, kohlrabi, fennel, tomatoes, cucumbers, spring onions, salad leaves for our own salad bags, herbs and lots more. The less-common veg eg we do is kohlrabi and coloured cauliﬂowers which are red, green and yellow – they alwayss look beautiful and almost unreal sitting alongside de all the greens.. Right now two perfectly in season ason veg for Augustt are runner beans ans and calabrese.. Everything we grow w is sold in the farm arm shop or used in n the restaurant which ich we w are very proud d of. Enjoy the heat while it
lasts, and remember to wallow if you need to cool down!
Steve Tucker is farmer and owner at White Row Farm, Beckington www.whiterowfa www.whiterowfarm.co.uk
:LHYLK:JHSSVWZ^P[O7LHZ*HSHIYLZL)LL[YVV[HUK*HYYV[ This is a lovely recipe and simple: it makes use of the vegetables all being grown here at White Row Farm. You can use whatever veg you have growing or is in season at the time. A really nice seasonal summery dish that can be eaten hot or cold, as long as your veggies are fresh, and prepared properly: it is a really fresh-tasting dish. INGREDIENTS 3 good quality scallops – we get ours from the Scallop Shell here at White Row Calabrese, picked ﬁnely and blanched in boiling water for 2 mins Carrot, peeled into strips blanched in boiling water for 2 mins Beetroot, peeled into strips left raw for texture Peas, blanched in the pod A scattering of pumpkin seeds A few herbs A little oil
METHOD Sear your scallops in a hot pan with a little oil for no more than 2 minutes on each side, serve on the bed of vegetables and enjoy! It really is that easy!
©James Grifﬁth – Head Chef, White Row Farm Restaurant and Café www.whiterowfarm.co.uk
> ﬂavour bertinet
JOLYY`ZV\W Richard Bertinet gives us a different idea for using the summer fruit www.thebertinetkitchen.com It’s that perfect time in the summer when the shops are laden with wonderful soft and stone fruit. This year’s cherry harvest has been fantastic – the hot weather in July giving us enormous sweet cherries just bursting with juice and ﬂavour. Prices are pretty keen too which enables you to use them for cooking with a good conscience, and a particular favourite of mine is cherry soup. I picked up this recipe from a chef, Gerard Konning at La Ferme de la Huppe (www. lafermedelahuppe.com) in the Luberon region of Provence, one summer. We were staying there for a wedding and had this pudding one evening at dinner outside in the gardens. It is served at room temperature with vanilla ice cream melting into it, and is the perfect way to string out the feeling of summer, even as the weather turns.
:V\WLKL*LYPZLZ INGREDIENTS 1kg good quality ripe cherries 400g sugar 500ml water 1 cinnamon stick 2 tbsp maizena (corn ﬂour) 200ml strong Côtes du Rhône Good quality vanilla ice cream to serve
METHOD Remove the stalks and stones from the cherries. The best way to de-stone cherries is using a paper clip (yes really!!). Use the small end of the slightly larger size paper clips. Open the clip out to leave just the small loop and push it into the hole left by the stalk. Carefully push the U of the paperclip under the stone and pull it back up the other side. The stone will pop out with it. Place the water, cinnamon stick and sugar into a pan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, add the cherries and cook gently for 30 minutes skimming the surface continuously.
Dissolve the corn ﬂour in a little water and add to the cherries. Cook for a further 5 minutes. Leave to cool for at least 3 hours then add the wine before serving. To serve, place a scoop of ice cream into a large brandy or wine glass. Carefully cover with some of the cherries and soup and serve immediately. The Bertinet Kitchen, 12 St Andrews Terrace, Bath BA1 2QR Call: 01225 445531 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Visit: www.thebertinetkitchen.com
> ﬂavour chef proﬁle
JOLMWYVMPSL Flavour catches up with Michelin starred chef Rob Clayton, Head Chef at Clayton’s Kitchen at the Porter, Bath
Name: Rob Clayton Age: 43 Where from: Cleethorpes, Lincolnshire Where is home: Bath Head Chef at: Clayton’s Kitchen at the Porter, Bath
My great grandfather was a baker and had two bakeries in Lincolnshire. My granddad would tell me great stories about him, and this inspired me to get into the catering industry. I started in a local pub in Waltham, Grimsby, then went to London to work at Antony Worrall Thompson’s Ménage à Trois. I then discovered the world of Michelin stars, and went to work for Nico Ladenis who became my mentor. I left London and came to live in Bath where I became head chef at Hunstrete House, and was awarded my ﬁrst Michelin star at 25 years of age. I then became Executive Chef at the Bath Priory to try to gain them a Michelin star and was awarded one in 2000. I left the ﬁne dining scene and became executive chef for Merchant Inns, where we set up six food-led country inns and an outside catering business. For the last three years I have been executive chef for First Sight Estates where I have set up the kitchens for Kinross House Scotland. I have always wanted to set my own restaurant up but never quite managed it. I am now looking forward to working with the team at the Porter and the opening of Clayton’s Kitchen. My main inspirations are Britain’s wonderful seasonal produce, books, magazines, and eating out. I love to work with ﬁsh and shellﬁsh, scallops being one of my favourite ingredients. I have always enjoyed cooking so it doesn’t feel like a job but just something I love to do. I also try to run every day so I can enjoy my food! Putting my name to something is very exciting and cooking back in this most beautiful city is something quite special (and a bit scary too) as my dream becomes reality. I am looking forward to cooking for the people of Bath again. My advice for young chefs who are just starting out in the industry? Work hard, learn all that you can, enjoy the journey and have a bit of a plan. CLAYTON’S KITCHEN The Porter, 15a George Street, Bath BA1 2EN Call: 01225 585100 Visit: www.theporter.co.uk
> ﬂavour stoberry house
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A winding drive through the picturesque Stoberry Park with its 26 acres of stunning parkland, spectacular panoramic views over Wells and the Vale of Avalon and a tranquil setting dotted with grazing sheep will take you to a stunning Somerset B&B experience in the form of Stoberry House and Garden. The luxury, award-winning country house offers a welcoming and relaxing place to stay, set within six acres of beautiful artistically created gardens, an experience for both garden lovers and wandering couples alike. The family garden, planted sympathetically within its landscape, provides a stunning combination of vistas accented with wildlife ponds, water features, sculpture, 11/2 acre walled garden, sunken garden, gazebo, potager, lime walk and more. Stoberry House is recommended as a place to stay in 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, Hudson’s Heritage and the Lonely Planet guide. Whatever time of year you decide to visit this extraordinary garden, take the time to
really explore the dramatic views and the wonderful sense of space: you won’t be disappointed, for this is one of Somerset’s most unforgettable viewing points.
requirements. Stoberry gift vouchers are beautifully presented with a picture of Stoberry House or Garden at the appropriate time of year in a card.
Stoberry Monetary Gift Vouchers For those looking for a special treat, Stoberry offers a range of gift vouchers for both overnight visitors and day visitors alike.
Special offer for ﬂavour readers! All gift vouchers for a night’s stay at Stoberry booked by ﬂavour readers will include the following extras on arrival: • a beautiful Clarins Gift set • complimentary tea, coffee or glass of wine, with sweet or savoury nibbles Please quote reference number: FLSTB2013 when booking.
Treat a friend, colleague or family member to a Stoberry Garden Afternoon Cream Tea for £14.95: a delectable selection of scones, cakes, ﬁnger sandwiches and a choice of teas or coffee – perfect for enjoying in the stunning garden in warmer months. Other gift vouchers include overnight stays or vouchers with a monetary value, with the option of adding a special breakfast, a bottle of champagne, a picnic hamper, ﬂowers or hand-crafted chocolates, providing a wide range of gift options for any occasion. You can even choose a gift voucher for a tailored experience based on your
Stoberry House Wells, Somerset BA5 3LD Call: 01749 672 906 Visit: www.stoberry-park.co.uk 21
> ﬂavour ﬁlini
Filini Bristol Emily Knight enjoys an Italian meal at the Bristol city centre restaurant
Dining at the restaurant of a hotel that is part of a large chain may not be the ﬁrst choice that springs to mind when organising an evening out, but Filini at the Radisson Blu is a little different. The Italian restaurant is just one of seven Filini-branded restaurants that can be found at Radisson Blu hotels all over the UK – and you’ll also ﬁnd them in countries such as Egypt, Italy, Germany… and even Zambia. All Filini restaurants aim to provide simple yet tasty Italian food with ﬂourish and ﬂair in an unpretentious environment. It’s an aim that is certainly achieved at the Bristol restaurant, which sits on the ﬁrst ﬂoor of the Radisson Blu Hotel on Broad Quay: an environment that features simple, uncluttered tables, white linen and expansive windows that look out onto the hustle and bustle of Bristol’s city centre. The menu offers a great range of courses and dishes to suit all tastes and diets, with vegetarian options clearly labelled. Bristol head chef Dean Milburn is in charge of a predominantly Italian menu, but also includes a nod to Sardinia in his choice of dishes, giving diners a range of options that aren’t available as widely as the standard Italian fare. Antipasti options include platters to 22
share alongside a large selection of individual dishes, while mains can be taken from the risotto and pasta, secondi or pizza menus. Filini also offer a pre-theatre menu between 12pm and 6pm, where diners can enjoy two courses from a set menu for just £7.50. On the day of our visit, we were also presented with the ‘starter specials’ menu, from which my partner chose his ﬁrst course of a fritto misto: a portion of crispy, deep-fried squid (including tentacles rather than just squid rings, which he was glad to see), prawns and white ﬁsh. This was served with a lovely tangy lemon and anchovy mayonnaise and a slice of lemon: the whole thing was cooked to perfection and beautifully presented in a smart black box. I chose from the standard menu, having been recommended to try the squid salad by one of the waiters. One of the lighter starter options on Filini’s menu, I was presented with a large bowl of mixed leaves, sliced tomato and chunks of Jerusalem artichoke, mixed with large slices of gently cooked squid. While the squid could have done with a little more seasoning, it was perfectly cooked and a lovely lighter option before the mammoth pizza that made up my main course…
> ﬂavour ﬁlini
I’m a sucker for anything on a menu that gives tasters of a range of different dishes, and so it was not difﬁcult to choose the Filini taster pizza as my main. I’d already spied the thin crust pizzas being delivered to other diners, and the sight and smell was too hard to resist. The Filini taster pizza offers a base with a different topping on every quarter: margherita on one, peperoni on another, quattro formaggi on the third and, on the fourth, the Filini pizza, comprising tomato, mozzarella, pecorino, prosciutto and rocket. As a main course for one (certainly as part of a three-course meal) the size of the pizza was incredibly generous, with a crispy-edged, thin base that was the perfect support to very high-quality and again, generous, toppings. The pizza was so lavish in its proportions, in fact, that I had to plead for my leftovers to be packaged up to take home… For my partner, it was the swordﬁsh linguine that stood out from the pasta menu, as a ﬁsh that he doesn’t often have the opportunity to enjoy. Meaty chunks of swordﬁsh had been twirled with the linguine, whole pistachios and an anchovy dressing before being plated and sprinkled with crushed pistachio nuts: not a dish that you’d ﬁnd on the
menu in many Italian restaurants, but a dish that certainly satisﬁed. Although by now getting rather full, we had spied the Filini tiramisu on the menu and couldn’t resist. A wise decision! The dessert was attractively presented in a tall glass, the traditional ﬂavours of the cream, sponge, coffee and chocolate all perfectly combined to make a dessert that we polished off in no time at all. Service throughout our meal was attentive, with our waiting staff knowledgeable about the menu and incredibly helpful throughout. The quality of the ingredients is high, and although the restaurant does have a bit of a hotel restaurant feel to it, it’s a relaxed environment in which to enjoy a good quality Italian meal – and if you get a spot by the window, it’s great for people watching too. If you’ve been on the hunt for a decent Italian in Bristol, Filini is deﬁnitely worth a visit.
Filini Bar & Restaurant Radisson Blu Hotel Broad Quay Bristol BS1 4BY Call: 0117 945 8605 Visit: www.ﬁlinirestaurant. com/restaurantbristol 23
COTLEIGH BREWERY Cotleigh Brewery started trading in 1979, and has been producing award-winning beers for the West Country for more than three decades. Cotleigh Brewery is committed to brewing traditional beers of the highest quality. All the beers are brewed with the best quality natural ingredients. Locally grown West Country malted barley, English hops and a unique strain of â€˜Cotleigh yeastâ€™ combine to produce distinctive Somerset cask-conditioned beers with character. Cotleigh Brewery products are available in some 350 freehouses in the West Country. Cotleigh bottled beers are stocked by most licensed retailers, but if you have problems visit our website or call direct. Next Cotleigh Open Day Saturday 7th December 2013! We will be celebrating the opening of our new Brew Pub! Come and see local craft producers and bring the children for a ride on the Brewery Dray with the very rare Suffolk Punch horses. We have just been awarded a Silver Medal for our Honey Buzzard in the South West CAMRA Champion Beer of Britain Competition.
The South West is home to a plethora of drinks companies, with businesses across the region producing the very ﬁnest English wines, ciders, beers and spirits. Our South West Drinking feature aims to give you just a small taste of what the area has to offer…
LɄɤɜȣ\Ȑɕɜ DUNCAN SHINE PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE SOUTH WEST’S PLETHORA OF DRINKS PRODUCERS
o much is cider the main drink associated with the South West that drinkers will often adopt a West Country accent just to say the word, while steadfastly refusing to adopt a French timbre for ‘champagne’ or a Spanish inﬂection for ‘sherry’. But cider is just one example of a wide range of drinks created and produced in the West Country, and it is well worth seeking out some hidden gems. Not far from Kingsbury Episcopi, for example, the Somerset Cider Brandy Company has expanded the remit of the Burrow Hill Orchard’s apples and distils some ﬁne oak-matured brandies. Products range from threeyear-old Somerset Royal Brandy to the delightfully soft and mellow ‘Alchemy’, which has the beneﬁt of 15 years in which to absorb the ﬂavours of the oak casks. The digestif and aperitif offerings blend the brandy with apple juice to give a delightful alternative to port. Down in Dorset, Black Cow produce a vodka made entirely from the whey of milk from local cows. The milk sugar
is fermented, distilled, blended and ﬁltered on site to produce a beautifully smooth and unique drink which lacks the harsh edge of many traditional vodkas. Up in Gloucestershire, Bramley & Gage produce a colourful range of fruit liqueurs made exclusively from whole fruit – no concentrates or purées. Originally all the fruit was grown on their own farm in South Devon, but even these days it is always sourced as locally as possible. Organic sloe gin, cherry brandy and blackberry, quince and strawberry liqueurs work beautifully as drinks in their own right, but also lend themselves readily to locally-produced food recipes too. Of course the region boasts a large number of cask ale breweries as the real ale renaissance continues apace. The Gloucester Brewery, for example, is
a micro-brewery housed at the docks. Only local ingredients are used, and the decadently chocolatey ‘Dockside Dark’ is a particular favourite for the autumn months, while the ﬂagship ‘Mariner’ is renamed ‘Cherry & White Ale’ for the rugby season. There are many, many more innovative and exciting local drinks producers in the South West and, with sustainability and food miles so important, it is well worth considering eschewing some global and national brands for a taste of something a little closer to home.
GRAPE & GRIND Grape & Grind offers a selection of exceptional wine, cider, beer and spirits from around the world, together with some of the best producers in the South West. Alongside outstanding local beers, one of the shop’s best sellers is 6 O’Clock Gin. Distilled in Thornbury, it won the gold award at the International Wine and Spirit Competition and for good reason; this clean, smooth and richly ﬂavoured gin is an instant hit. Open seven days a week, the shop holds regular tastings, offers a wine club and delivers nationwide. Grape & Grind 101 Gloucester Road Bristol BS7 8AT T: 0117 924 8718 www.grapeandgrind.co.uk
TEIGNWORTHY BREWERY Teignworthy Brewery was established in 1994 and distributes directly thought the Devon and Somerset area – including delivery to Bristol/Bath once a month – but their beers are also available throughout the UK via wholesalers, distributors and other breweries. All Teignworthy ales are full-bodied beers, brewed to 200-year-old recipes on the historic site of Tuckers Maltings. Tuckers’ own West Country malted barley, water from Dartmoor, English aromatic hops and yeast from a secret supply all provide Teignworthy with the ingredients required to blend these fine ales! TEIGNWORTHY BREWERY, The Maltings, Teign Road, Newton Abbot TQ12 4AA
ENJOY A TRIP TO THE WESTONS CIDER MILL, OFFERING TOURS, A VISITOR CENTRE AND MORE
s cider becomes the staple drink of the British summer, more and more people want to know what goes on behind the scenes. The demand for cider has risen considerably in the past few years, with consumer demand resulting in a 32 per cent sales increase, reaching £2.7bn in 2012. Those ﬁgures are on the rise for 2013, with cider increasingly becoming a drink for the whole year, rather than just a hazy summer day beverage. Westons Cider Mill, nestled amongst the acres of apple and perry pear orchards in Much Marcle, Herefordshire, offers a truly unique backstage pass to the traditional art of cider-making by one of the UK’s emerging cider producers.
Westons visitor centre is open seven days a week, with tours running four times a day. You will be able to follow the journey of the apple, from a bud in the orchards, to the apple press, to the moment it is poured for adults in the tasting session at the end of the tour. The tour will take up to an hour, with knowledgeable tour guides taking you back in time to experience the fully working site, including the fragrant vat shed housing historic oak vats, some up to 200 years old and still being used today. You will be able to chart the journey of the cider mill, from using dray horses to crush apples with a stone press, right up to the pressing machines that are used today. The site boasts over
50 tanks that hold up to 200,000 litres of cider in each, with more plans for expansion. After an extensive tour of the site that fully explores the creation and production of cider, as well as delving deeper into the rich heritage Westons has to offer, adults will be able to sample a selection of ciders and perrys. This is a chance to get to know the products better and to sip some new varieties. It’s a real ‘try before you buy’ experience. To keep the little ones happy, the visitor centre also has a farm park and play park. After visiting the animals, children are able to play on the John Deere pedal tractors in the play farm house. Fresh apple juice is also
GET BETTER ACQUAINTED WITH WESTONS’ MOST POPULAR CIDERS: Henry Westons Vintage 8.2% Made using only the very best Herefordshire cider apples from a single year’s harvest. Traditionally crafted and slowly aged in 200-year-old oak vats to deliver a fullbodied cider with a long, lingering ﬁnish. Stowford Press 4.5% Stowford Press is a sparkling medium dry cider which has built its popularity on its premium taste and quality. Despite being enjoyed worldwide, Stowford Press proudly maintains its Herefordshire roots. Stowford Press was recently described by Pete Brown as “the best of the mainstream ciders,” at the International Cider Challenge Awards, where it won a bronze medal. Old Rosie Scrumpy 7.3% Old Rosie captures the heart of Herefordshire, therefore underpinning the rural provenance of cloudy cider and traditional ‘scrumpy’. Mid-golden and straw-like in colour, Old Rosie is a cloudy, mediumbodied fruity cider that has a wonderful aroma of wild berry fruits, honey and vintage cider barrels.
available to tantalise young taste buds. During the spring, the education centre will open its doors to younger pupils, encouraging them to put on their wellies and head to the farm on a tractor and trailer. Pupils will experience how modern farming works in an enjoyable and safe environment. As well as cider mill tours, you will be able to enjoy a delicious lunch in their onsite restaurant, the Scrumpy House. If a larger lunch doesn’t take your fancy, a selection of light bites is
available from the tea rooms, which houses one of the largest bottle collections in the world. Booking is recommended as the Scrumpy House is an extremely popular eatery in its own right. All details needed for booking can be found on Westons’ website.
Wyld Wood Organic Cider 6.0% This traditional premium cider, produced from fruit sourced in Herefordshire’s organic orchards is fully matured in old oak vats. Westons Wyld Wood cider has a truly appley, fresh and full-bodied taste with a ripe aroma.
Westons Cider, The Bounds,Much Marcle, Ledbury, Herefordshire HR8 2NQ Call: 01531 660108 Visit: www.westons-cider.co.uk
Westons Visitor Centre is open seven days a week. For exclusive tour offers, quote ‘Flavour Magazine’ when calling to book on 01531 660108. For more details check their website www.westons-cider.co.uk 29
> ﬂavour wine school
KEN FORRESTER ON WINES, SOUTH AFRICA AND LIFE Angela Mount catches up with Ken Forrester on a recent visit to Bath
W Angela Mount is a wine expert, writer and presenter. Probably best known for having her taste buds insured for £10m by her former employers Somerﬁeld, she is passionate about helping wine drinkers discover new and exciting wines. She also writes and presents events about wine and food matching, judges at all the major UK wine competitions and chairs the judging panels for the Bristol and also the Bath Good Food Awards.
hen it comes to characters in the wine industry, there are few with bigger personalities than Ken Forrester, the undisputed king of Chenin Blanc, and champion of this often undervalued grape variety. Ken is undoubtedly one of the most charismatic and passionate winemakers in South Africa, and a true advocate and champion of the potential, not just of this grape variety, but of the wealth and richness of grapes and wines with which South Africa is blessed. Ken Forrester began his wine dream 20 years ago, when he purchased 120 hectares of land in Stellenbosch, in the year that Nelson Mandela was released from prison, causing a seismic change to the entire future – politically, economically
and commercially – of South Africa. At the time, the stability of the country was in doubt, with much insecurity across the land, but Ken held fast to his belief that the best for South Africa was yet to come, and purchased a derelict farm which he set about transforming and renovating. The vineyards were already there, but needed care, with Chenin Blanc, Semillon, Syrah and Cinsault the main grapes planted. Previously a restaurateur, his dream was always to own a vineyard. 20 years on, he is one of the iconic, leading ﬁgures of the South African wine industry, and has almost single handedly pioneered the revitalisation of the Chenin Blanc grape variety. This is a grape that he believes in passionately, and by which he sets out
> ﬂavour wine school
his stall. “It’s a much maligned grape,” he states, “and it was a big risk, planting more of it. But there was never a moment when I felt it wouldn’t work. The reputation of Chenin Blanc has suffered, and it’s still often viewed as an entry level style of wine.” He’s right; Chenin Blanc makes some of the greatest white wines in the Loire Valley, from Vouvray to Savennieres and the lusciously sweet Bonnezeaux. Ken’s mission is to create that reputation for South African Chenin. He feels the same about Pinotage, South Africa’s native grape, which he reckons is largely misunderstood, and often neglected today; again, it’s down to what you do with the grape that matters, and his unwooded, juicy, fruity Petit Pinotage dispels the myth that this grape is tough, unwieldy and an acquired taste. A passionate lover of Rhone-style wines, Ken’s wildly spiced, and edgy, Renegade, is testament to his belief in the Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre mix – his desert island wine would be a magnum, or preferably an imperial, of top-notch Chateauneuf du Pape. Following his ﬁrst vintage in 1994, Ken is riding high on the crest of a wave that is driving the success of high-quality South African wines, and is determined to see them up there, in terms of recognition and accolades, with France. Matching his hand-crafted wines with food is another passion, as he believes wholeheartedly in the philosophy of the right wine enhancing the right dish. He counts as one of his ‘matches made in heaven’, the Scottish Michelin star chef Andrew Fairlie’s lobster with smoked lime butter, with his own Forrester FMC. Ken is a larger-than-life personality, with presence, character and charm. Yet there is a humility to him, an engaging sense of values, and a passionate belief in the power of nature. “Nature keeps you humble; you have to work with it, not ﬁght it, and recognise that, as a winemaker, you are never in control. Not a day goes by when nature doesn’t teach you something you didn’t know.” By the taste of his wine, it looks as though Ken and nature have a pretty good understanding of each other.
HERE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVOURITES: Ken Forrester Reserve Chenin Blanc 2011 Ken’s Chenin Blanc reserve is big, bold, complex and creamy, yet possessing a racy, structured elegance and verve. It has a lovely, zesty minerality, which lifts the warm, nectarine and peach fruit character, with a whack of fresh lime juice on the ﬁnish. Chenin Blanc is a great food wine, and this would be perfect with Moroccan spiced marinades, fruity couscous and Sunday’s roast pork and apple stufﬁng! Ken Forrester FMC 2011 The FMC is Ken’s ﬂagship Chenin Blanc, a wine of incredible depth and texture, which will last for up to 10 years. There is much speculation about what the letters stand for, but effectively the wine is a collaboration between Forrester and fellow winemaker and friend Martin Meinert. Elegant, restrained, with a plethora of intensely rich, peach and apricot fruit, layers of cream, toasted hazelnuts and soft butter, the edgy ﬂick of citrus on the ﬁnish adds to its complexity. It’s a perfect foil for grown-up, mildly spiced dishes, and rich seafood. I last tried it with Chris Staines’ from Allium’s dish of crab, sesame oil spice, avocado cream, pickled turnips and peanut brittle – it was a sublime match! Ken Forrester Petit Pinotage 2012 Proving that Pinotage can be approachable and easy drinking, this deliciously vibrant, cheerful and juicily fruity red is just the job for a good weekday red, and works perfectly with tomatobased pasta sauces, pizza, and chilli con carne. Ken uses techniques to extract the maximum juicy fruit from the grapes, and makes this wine, almost as he would a white – grape maceration, cool fermentation and strictly no oak. Ken Forrester The Renegade 2008 My personal favourite from the range, this is Ken’s take on the classic Rhone blend of Grenache Syrah and Mourvedre. The name comes from the fact that there are no rules when making up this blend and the mix may vary from year to year. Ken ‘doesn’t do rules’, and this wild, spicy, heady red is testament to the individuality and character that he manages to transmit into all of his wines. Aged in old barrels for two years to ‘grow up and ﬁnish school’ as he puts, it, The Renegade is a gloriously rich mix of dark, cinnamon-spiced berries, framboise, wild herbs and dark chocolate, with a velvety, sweet spice edge, and a voluptuous texture. I can’t think of a more perfect match than lamb with this, cooked in all manner of guises. Ken Forrester The Gypsy 2009 Ken’s iconic red, made, once again, from his much-loved Rhone trilogy of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. As the name implies, this is a wild, bohemian, dense, full-bodied red with unique power and character. The 2009 will have been aged for at least two years before being released; brooding, sultry and dark, it will last a good 10 years in the cellar, but for those who can’t wait, it’s a rich, intense, still restrained red, just waiting to kick out – aromas and ﬂavours are still tightly reined-in, but the promise is all there. Wild herbs, dense black cherries, smoke, licorice, dried ﬁgs and cinnamon-spiced blackberries, with a brush of sweet, ripe oak – it’s all there. Incredible depth, power, texture and structure. Open up for indulgent roast beef, garlic and rosemary spiked lamb, or rich, mature cheeses. All wines are available from Great Western Wine Shop, Wells Road, Bath Call 01225 322810 Visit www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Tickets to the Wine School; www.greatwesternwine.co.uk/wine-school 31
',9,1(,1',$1&8,6,1( Immerse yourself in an interactive chef experience, taking you on a journey through the sub continent - a delicious, visual, intriguing 12 course menu created live by Chef Stephen J Gomes Cobra Good Curry Chef of the Year 2007 â€“ 2013. Available for private hire by groups of 6+ - perfect for Christmas parties, special events or just because... $/D&DUWH&KHIV7DEOH3ULYDWH'LQLQJ(YHQW&DWHULQJ 0HOXKD%ULVWRO
t may seem like Christmas is still ages away, but we at ﬂavour certainly know how quickly the festive season can creep up! This is the ﬁrst in our series of Christmas features for the year, providing you with suggestions for Christmas party venues, gift ideas, food for the Christmas dinner table and more…
The Catherine Wheel, Marshfield The Catherine Wheel is an impressive building, much of it dating back to the 17th century. Simple, sympathetic décor complements the exposed stone walls and large open ﬁreplaces. Today we are highly regarded for our home-cooked food and real ales served in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. We use local produce when available and all our food is freshly prepared by fully-trained chefs. The Catherine Wheel The High Street Marshﬁeld SN14 8LR Call: 01225 892220 Email: email@example.com Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk
&KULVWPDV0HQX Starters Brussels sprout & chestnut soup with sage & garlic croutons (v) Pheasant & duck pate, apple & grape chutney, with warm toast Smoked salmon parcel ﬁlled with prawns & cream cheese, served with a lemon & dill dressing Toasted bruschetta topped with a feta & olive salad Breaded mushrooms ﬁlled with brie, served with orange & apricot jelly Main Courses Turkey breast with a cranberry & thyme stufﬁng Game stew, marinated in red wine, slow cooked with shallots & herb dumplings Pot-roasted loin of pork stuffed with apricots & thyme served with crispy crackling & apple sauce Festive lentil & nut roast (v) Sea bass ﬁllet with a caper & rocket salad, served with hollandaise Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding Puddings Traditional Christmas pudding with brandy sauce Chocolate bread & butter pudding with double cream Lemon posset & mixed berry coulis with shortbread biscuits Bakewell tart with vanilla ice cream West Country cheeses with chutney & savoury biscuits Marshﬁeld Farm ice cream selection £20.00 for three courses, £16.00 for two courses pre-booked – crackers included! Available from Friday 29 November to 30 December (excl. 25 & 26 Dec). January 2014 bookings available on request Price includes VAT. Service charge is not included. A non-refundable deposit of £5 per person is required on booking. Please complete a menu pre-order form and return within ﬁve days of your reservation date. If you have any allergies or requests please do not hesitate to talk to us. Bed & breakfast – Conference facilities
Goodman’s Geese Goodman’s Geese is part of Goodman Brothers, who farm at Walsgrove Farm, Great Witley and in the surrounding area. They farm arable and asparagus, as well as having 4,500 free-range geese and 4,500 free-range bronze turkeys. They also have Longhorn beef animals grazing the hillside. The poultry business was started as a hobby in 1982 and has grown into a large, nationwide supplier of free-range, oven-ready geese and bronze turkeys. Goodman’s have been featured on the top Christmas Specials on TV over the past years including Delia’s Christmas Special 1990, The Two Fat Ladies in 1997, Rick Stein’s Christmas Special Food Heroes 2005 and Jamie Oliver’s Christmas at Home in 2007. Free Range Bronze Turkeys Bronze turkeys are produced to the highest welfare standards and are fed on natural foods containing no additives or growth promoters and are matured for seven to 10 days to enhance the ﬂavour. The black feather stubs are one sure way to recognise a real turkey – there can be no imitations because a bronze turkey can only be traditionally reared on the farm. The stubs shrivel during cooking. Free Range Geese All of Goodman’s geese are hatched between April and July, and are reared on an extensive free-range system. The geese graze over large grass paddocks and are fed on allnatural foods – grass, corn, straw and a specially prepared ration containing no additives or growth promoters. Availability Geese are available from September 26th onwards, and are perfect for dinner parties and Christmas dinners. In the months of September, October and November, Goodman’s Geese charge slightly less for their geese, making them ideal for freezing in preparation for Christmas time. Pre-ordered turkeys are available for collection from Thanksgiving (November 28th) until December 15th. Goodman’s Geese also offers a delivery service – please get in touch for more information. Goodmans Geese Walsgrove Farm Great Witley Worcestershire WR6 6JJ Call: 01299 896272 Visit: www.goodmansgeese.co.uk
COOK At COOK we make remarkable food for your freezer, using exactly the same ingredients and techniques you use at home. This means our food looks and tastes homemade. Give yourself something special this Christmas… time to enjoy it! We have starters, main courses and puddings for every occasion, which make entertaining effortless. Why not try the stuffed crown of turkey, beef or venison Wellington for 6–8 or our stuffed chicken cushion, which makes the perfect lunch for two. Your gourmet Christmas lunch can be ready in less than three hours, so relax and let us COOK for you this festive season and we will even deliver it to your door! COOK Clifton Unit 3 St John’s Court Whiteladies Road Clifton, Bristol BS8 2QY Call: 0117 317 9748 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
COOK Wells 13 Broad Street Wells BA5 2DJ Call: 01749 677726 Email: email@example.com Visit: www.cookfood.net
The Queens Arms, Corton Denham Christmas at The Queens Arms Corton Denham is a special time of the year and there are a number of offers available throughout December. Christmas meals, from December 2nd to 24th, priced at £22.50 for two courses or £27.95 for three. Or enjoy a Christmas party evening with three -course meal, entertainment, crackers and party poppers for £32.50 available 6th December – 20th December shared or individual parties max 80 people. Stay the night of your party at a special discounted rate - £75.00 for a single room £90.00 for a standard double or £100.00 for an executive double. £10.00 per person non-refundable deposit secures bookings. Full details of Christmas packages, including information available at www.thequeensarms.com. Alternatively, enjoy a three-night stay,24th -27th December, including breakfast, dinner and accommodation. Packages from £600 for a classic room, prices based on two people sharing on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis. For more information, please visit The Queens Arms’ website. Finally, New Years Eve Wild West Party £70.00 per person, tickets on sale September 1st.
The Queens Arms, Corton Denham, Sherborne, Somerset DT9 4LR Call: 01963 220317 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Visit: www.thequeensarms.com
Allington Farm Shop At Christmas Allington Farm Shop is packed full of delicious Christmas goodies, premium Christmas trees and some unusual present ideas including fabulous hampers tailor-made to your requirements; choose from our selection of hamper baskets, ﬁll it to the brim with the goodies of your choice and we will do the rest! We have an extensive range of locally produced goods on sale, any of which can be included. From local cheese, chutneys and biscuits, local preserves, cakes and chocolates to an entire Christmas dinner! Our in-house butchery offers all cuts of pork, beef and lamb as well as local free-range chickens, local seasonal game, dry cured bacon and gammon joints and homemade sausages and faggots. Orders are now being taken for Christmas, as well as our home-reared turkeys, we specialise in local free-range cockerels, chickens, geese, ducks and home-cooked hams. Our home-reared turkeys are naturally matured in large open-fronted barns on deep straw bedding. Turkeys are dry plucked, hand-ﬁnished and then hung for at least seven days in cold rooms. This process preserves the natural texture and enhances the superior ﬂavour of the bird. Allington Farm Shop, Allington Bar Farm, Chippenham SN14 6LJ Call: 01249 658112 Visit: www.allingtonfarmshop.co.uk
We are a small, family run deli with a strong ethos of selling local, handmade and homemade products bringing simple but top-quality products s to the local community of Cheddar and the surrounding area. a.
David Schroetter gives his top tips for Christmas wines, all of which are available from his shop in Wells…
We hope the awardwinning preserves of Hogs Bottom and the fabulous awardwinning ice cream of Granny Gothards, along with our other amazing produce, excite our customerss as much as they do us.
The White Lirac is the white to have with your turkey. Made just outside Châteauneuf-du-Pape this is a full-bodied white wine that will take on any roast white meat or roast pork.
Highnams Deli Tweentown Cheddar Somerset BS27 3JB Call: 01934 742212 Visit: www.highnams-deli.co.uk
With your Christmas rib of beef, enjoy the Lirac red. For your Christmas pudding, try the Vin de Grenier: grapes are handpicked in November and left to dry for six to eight weeks before being crushed. Santé Wine 56 High Street Wells BA5 2NS Call: 01749 679431 Visit: www.santewineimports.com 37
Charingworth Manor The perfect manor house in warm Cotswold stone, Charingworth has commanded views over idyllic rural Gloucestershire countryside for 700 years. Charingworth Manor is one of the prettiest houses in this part of the Cotswolds, with superb views over rolling Cotswold countryside. With roaring log ﬁres, cosy sitting rooms, and 26 luxurious bedrooms, it is the perfect spot for a traditional Christmas or New Year escape. To celebrate the festive season, Charingworth have put together a programme for you to enjoy with family, friends or work colleagues. If you’re planning a party, let them organise it for you, including a rosetted festive menu put together by their head chef, party novelties and, if you wish, they can arrange a DJ to get things going. All you need to do is to bring the party spirit! Private Parties Charingworth Manor have two function rooms where you can host your own party. The Upper Conservatory has capacity for 22 for dinner and the Long Room can accommodate 50. For more information and to book, visit Charingworth Manor’s website, or contact them directly. Charingworth Manor Charingworth Nr. Chipping Campden Gloucestershire GL55 6NS Call: 01386 593555 Visit: www.classiclodges.co.uk
)HVWLYH3DUWLHVDW&KDULQJZRUWK The team has put together a festive party menu which you can enjoy at lunch, dinner or as part of your festive party. Available from Friday, 30th November throughout December until Sunday 23rd.
*Roast parsnip and apple soup, watercress infusion *Smooth chicken liver and smoked bacon parfait, crisp olive oil crostini and homemade chutney *Feathers of seasonal melon, mango and papaya salsa and orange coulis *Roast breast of turkey, apple, sage and shallot stufﬁng, bacon-wrapped chipolatas and rich pan gravy *Baked salmon ﬁllet, prawn and chervil cream sauce *Braised feather blade of beef, rich baby onion and smoked bacon jus *Sweet roasted root vegetable, chestnut and local blue cheese tart, peppery rocket pesto Traditional Christmas pudding, brandy sauce *Winter berry cheesecake, spiced fruit compote *Rich milk chocolate mousse with dark chocolate orange sauce Selection of teas or coffee and mince pies Lunch: £23.50 per person;dinner: £32.50 per person
Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen Head chef Richard Buckley offers up a vegetarian starter option for Christmas Day. Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen serves high-quality, innovative vegetarian food in a relaxed and friendly style. We are looking to redeﬁne what it means to eat vegetables in the 21st century. This is thoughtful, delicious and celebratory food made using the ﬁnest ingredients from the South West.
Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen 2 North Passage Parade Bath BA1 1NX Call: 01225 446059 www.demuths.co.uk Visit: www.demu
Christmas is one of my favourite times of the year. I love slow roasting all those winter vegetables and the sense of rest that comes from sharing a bottle of wine with friends over a great meal, shielded from the weather outside. People often wonder what you eat for Christmas if you can’t have turkey… I wonder how boring it must be to only eat turkey! At Acorn we will be serving a special Christmas menu made up of comforting celebratory food with a few twists to keep things fresh. We have a special menu for groups and an equally special menu for everyone else.
Truffled calabrese broccoli with cauliflower panna cotta and pickled kohlrabi This dish has become by far our most popular starter. This is all the more satisfying as it started off as a bit of a challenge and a joke. The idea was to try and create a dish out of only cabbage. Every part of this dish is made from a variety or part of the cabbage family. Who would have thought that cabbage could be so popular, decadent or delicious? The panna cotta and pickle can be made in the morning, while the broccoli should be prepared when you are ready to serve. SERVES 4
Cauliﬂower Panna Cotta 225g cauliﬂower 30g butter 225g double cream 150g milk 2g agar 4g iota (or 2g agar if not available) Salt Nutmeg Line a tray with non-stick baking paper and arrange six 8cm ring moulds on top, making sure there is a tight seal on the paper. Cut cauliﬂower into 1cm slices and place in a large saucepan. Cover with water and add the butter. Boil until all the water has evaporated and you have a broken down mess of cauliﬂower. Add the cream, milk, agar and iota. Bring to the boil and simmer for two minutes. Blend until very smooth and pass through a ﬁne sieve. Season with salt and pour into moulds. Store chilled until needed.
Pickled Kohlrabi 2 kohlrabi 75g sugar 150g vinegar 225g water 5g salt Peel the kohlrabi and cut into 1cm dice. Put the sugar, vinegar, water and salt together in a pan and bring to the boil. As soon as it reaches the boil, add the kohlrabi and remove from heat. Pour into a sterilised container and store in the fridge until needed.
Trufﬂed Calabrese Broccoli 20 medium ﬂorets of broccoli 20g unsalted butter Rapeseed oil Maldon salt Good quality trufﬂe oil to serve Using two frying pans (or sauté pans) heat a little rapeseed oil until very, very hot. Add half the broccoli to each pan and a generous pinch of salt. Put a lid on each pan and give a good shake. Cook on a high heat shaking every 20 seconds until the broccoli has taken on colour with bits that are quite dark. Add 10g of butter to each pan and toss until the butter is absorbed. Return the lid to pan and leave off the heat to steam for 4 minutes. Place one panna cotta onto each plate. Scatter nine pieces of kohlrabi over the plate. Place ﬁve pieces of broccoli on each plate. Drizzle a little trufﬂe oil into the ﬂower end of each broccoli and serve.
The Fox at Broughton Gifford There is nowhere better to enjoy fabulous food than at The Fox at Broughton Gifford. Widely regarded as one of the county’s premier dining pubs, included in The Good Pub Guide, The Michelin Guide and Alistair Sawday’s Pubs and Inns, The Fox sources locally and also grows an extensive amount of their own produce, including rearing rare breed English pigs, chickens and ducks – younger members of the family will love it. You are even able to wander around the smallholding, which is situated behind their beer garden. The Fox really goes that extra mile in searching for excellent ingredients, and the quality of their weekly changing menus reﬂect the commitment the young team has to keeping to their high standards. And this Christmas is no different. Join them for a wonderful lunch or dinner over the festive period. Check out the fabulous menu below...
Starters Seared king scallops, artichoke and trufﬂe purée, bacon crisp, sauce vierge. £10.95 £2.00 sup Pigeon breast, caramelised pistachios, potato rosti, celeriac and apple. £7.95 Selection of home-cured salami, toasted sourdough and pickles. £7.95 Chicken liver and foie gras parfait, Tokaji jelly. £10.95 £2.00 sup Spiced parsnip soup, caramelised parsnip, thyme croutons. V £6.50 Beetroot, poached pear, chicory and goat’s cheese salad. £6.50 Main courses Roasted crown of free-range turkey, with all the trimmings. £17.95 Seared local venison, fondant potato, pickled beetroot, candied walnuts, cavolo nero. £21.95 Roasted partridge, parsnip purée with cabbage, bacon and chestnut parcels, game chips. £18.95 Fish of the day, with a broth of leek, spinach, wild mushrooms and clams. £19.95 Pan-fried gnocchi, chestnuts, wild mushrooms and blue cheese. £13.95 6oz ﬁllet steak, hand-cut chips, sautéed winter vegetables, Béarnaise sauce. £23.95 £2.00 sup Desserts Christmas pudding with brandy cream and stem ginger ice cream. £6.50 Chocolate and chestnut tart, salted caramel, toffee nuts, vanilla ice cream. £6.50 “Toffee apple” crème brûlée with cinnamon biscuits. £6.50 Selection of cheeses, with homemade chutney and biscuits. £7.95 Selection of ice creams and sorbets. £5.95 Coffee and petit fours included with set menu. 2 courses for £25.00, 3 courses for £30.00 Some dishes subject to a supplementary charge on the set menu.
The Fox Broughton Gifford Melksham SN12 8PW Call: 01225 7894 Visit: www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk Twitter: @thefoxbroughton
The Star And Dove
Dining with William Shakespeare - The Twelfth Night Feast
We are extremely excited d to announce that this Christmas we shall be championing one of our most decorated and golden den eras of English history.
The Star and Dove welcomes you to Elizabethan England “Give me some wine, ﬁll full. I drink to the whole table.” William Shakespeare 1564 –1616
Master cooks Tim Denny, Leigh Pascoe and Matthew Duggan will be delivering a 13-course menu using original methods and ingredients, inspired by the twelfth night feast. ‘Dining with William Shakespeare’ diners will get to experience such dishes as oysters stewed in white wine, roast pigeons with a marrow and liver dressing, and an almond pudding with a salad of lemons. Every table will be laid in the tradional fashion, with wine and ale on arrival for all guests along with a selection of historic breads such as the Meslin rye and Manchet. h F Feast as the nobility once did to experience a unique historical jjourney through a remarkable period of our heritage. • 13 courses • Wine and ale included • £34.95 • Running from November 26th – December 21st (Monday to Saturday only) T Star And Dove The 75–78 St Luke’s Road, Totterdown, Bristol BS3 4RY 7 Call: 0117 933 2892 C Visit: www.staranddove.co.uk V
Queen Street Delicatessen At Queen Street Deli, offering you the ﬁnest choice of local produce, continental goods and exotic delicacies is at the heart eart of what we do. Whether you’re looking ng for a lovely selection of cheese and biscuits, ts, a bespoke hamper of sweet treats, or something truly personal and unique, we’ll tailor our range to your wishes – pop in and see us!
Queen Street Delicatessen n 14 Queen Street Wells Somerset BA5 2DP Call: 01749 679803 Visit: www.queenstreetdeli.co.uk
> ﬂavour mezzé at the white lion
4LaatH[[OL >OP[L3PVU 7VY[PZOLHK Sam Donati heads to Mezzé’s sixth restaurant for dinner All of the Mezzé restaurants share menus combining a frankly bewildering array of tapas with a strongly Mediterraneaninspired à la carte menu. My dining partner and I chose the latter, since I am renowned as being someone with a penchant for painfully lengthy decision-making when presented with so much delicious choice. Anna started with the carpaccio of venison ﬁllet, with an egg salad and caesar dressing. I went for the loundza and halloumi: slices of cypriot pork loin with slices of halloumi. Anna enjoyed her venison, although commented that it was rather thick. In my case also, generosity slightly outweighed delicacy; whilst the pork loin was lovely, the halloumi would deﬁnitely have beneﬁted from being rather thinner, or alternatively grilled for longer.
Now, I’m generally somewhat Bristolcentric when it comes to dining out, and indeed rather spoilt due to living in close proximity to so many great restaurants. But sometimes one needs to spread one’s wings and venture out... Therefore I found myself heading to Portishead to sample the offerings of Mezzé Restaurants’ recent acquisition, the White Lion. Portishead itself has changed beyond recognition in recent years, with the development of Port Marine, and the White Lion has also undergone a remarkable change from its previous incarnation as a rather mundane town centre pub. It’s now 42
a bright, family friendly establishment with a range of areas to eat, drink and be merry, including plenty of outdoor seating. The attention to detail shines through, with a stylish Mediterranean theme evident throughout, from the menu to the tasteful interior design. One aspect I particularly liked was that the upper dining areas were all accessible via a stairlift; it’s good to see restaurateurs paying attention to a diverse customer base. There’s also a large, free car park, which is a boon. I’m pleased to report that, unlike a previous fateful outing to Chew Magna, my car remained damage-free at the end of the evening.
On to mains, and Anna chose the monkﬁsh, whilst I, possibly rather unwisely for my waistline, chose the mixed grill. I was certainly impressed with the former. The monkﬁsh was delicately cooked, and fell apart on the fork. Too many restaurants manage to murder white ﬁsh with excessively lengthy cooking. It was served with a creamy sauce, which was rich and well-executed. My mixed grill was superb, a veritable meat feast with more than a nod to the Mediterranean. My favourite element was the chicken souvlaki, beautifully tender but with just enough ‘char’ and spice. I
> ﬂavour mezzé at the white lion
do always ponder why mixed grills seem to be disproportionately expensive when compared to the rest of the menu however. And so to dessert. I plumped for the ginger baklava with Turkish delight ice cream, Anna chose the cheeseboard. The baklava was nothing short of historic: richly ﬂavoured little squares with the right balance of spice and sweetness, and perfectly offset by the delicate Turkish delight ice cream. When it came to the cheeseboard, the selection of cheeses and presentation was good, but the mango chutney with it just did not seem to suit the dish.
Overall though, I’d describe my impressions of Mezzé as being overwhelmingly positive. I think as a quality, value-for-money proposition it’s difﬁcult to complain. I like the consistency of pricing across the menu, with the mains, starters and desserts all sharing common prices.
¸4`TP_LKNYPSS^HZ Z\WLYIH]LYP[HISLTLH[ MLHZ[^P[OTVYL[OHUH UVK[V[OL4LKP[LYYHULHU¹ Starters and mains come in at a reasonable £5.50 and £13 respectively, with the desserts also £5.50. Whilst I appreciated the symmetry, I imagine that this will be also thoroughly popular with the infernal group diners who insist on withdrawing the calculator at the end of an enjoyable meal in order to calculate precisely their share. The wine list also reﬂects Mezzé’s good value, down-to-earth approach with a solid range of well-priced wines. Beers from across the Med are well represented too, with pleasantly surprising prices. I’d certainly recommend the White Lion. For me, one of the key points of its appeal is consistency and a broad appeal. A good, varied menu with a strong theme, fair pricing and a really pleasant dining environment. I’ll be back... Mezzé at the White Lion 1 High Street Portishead BS20 6AF Call: 01275 848136 Visit: www.mezzerestaurants.com 43
ith obvious links to the railway, The Old Station features an old Pullman carriage as its restaurant, which has been lovingly restored to all its former glory. Al Fresco dining with a woodburning stove and barbecue is available in the warmer months and dining under the stars on our deck is a must for the romantic. We are open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner â€“ all day on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
Wells Road, Bristol Avon BS39 6EN T: 01761 452228
DINNER for t wo WHETHER YOU’RE LOOKING FOR SOMEWHERE TO CELEBRATE AN ANNIVERSARY, A SPECIAL OCCASION OR JUST A SPUR-OF-THE-MOMENT MEAL FOR TWO, THE SOUTH WEST IS FULL OF VENUES THAT PROVIDE THE PERFECT COMBINATION OF ATMOSPHERE, FOOD AND SERVICE TO CREATE A ROMANTIC MEAL THAT YOU ARE SURE NEVER TO FORGET…
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A high, open beam ceiling and exposed stone walls in the restaurant display the original space, while the gentle lighting contributes to an intimate feel. We consider our food to be truly great, honouring many different cooking traditions and interpreting them with our original vision to create a ﬁne modern menu with classical French disciplines. We boast a selection of comfortable guest rooms, all of which have been furnished to a high standard and are offered at competitive rates.
With a Michelin star already under his career belt, Chris has made the Abbey Hotel’s restaurant one of the top eateries in the South West. Bespoke and luxurious, this restful retreat in the heart of Bath is the perfect location to experience some wonderful food. From the seasonal set menu, light lunchtime dishes and scrumptious dinner menu, you’ll discover combinations of ﬂavours to surprise and delight.
The Oak House The Square, Axbridge, Somerset, BS26 2AP Call: 01934 732444
Abbey Hotel North Parade, Bath BA1 1LF Call: 01225 461603
Visit: www.abbeyhotelbath.co.uk/allium-brasserie y
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The Oak House offers a casual ﬁne-dining restaurant in a rustic historical building.
Nestled in the heart of Somerset, one of the UK’s most beautiful counties, the 17th-century Crossways Inn offers sumptuous comfort, excellent service, extensive facilities and easy access to the area’s varied attractions. Situated among some of the country’s most stunning scenery, popular landmarks, ‘must-visit’ destinations/attractions, we offer more than just a place to rest your head. The Crossways Stocks Lane North Wootton Nr Wells Somerset BA4 4EU Call: 01749 899000 Call: www.thecrossways.co.uk 46
Bath’s Allium Brasserie is the domain of renowned chef, Chris Staines.
In the heart of Taunton this hidden treasure of a restaurant can be found nestled under the archway in Castle Bow. Aptly named Castle Bow Bar & Grill, when you enter you’ll ﬁnd a sophisticated, well stocked bar serving local beers, champagnes and cocktails. Wander through to the intimate restaurant and you’ll be delighted not only by the décor but the delicious dishes on offer. Three courses cost £34 – a snip for a romantic night out. Whilst you’re there why not stay overnight? Castle Bow Bar & Grill Castle Bow, Taunton Somerset TA1 1NF Call: 01823 328328 Visit: www.castlebow.com www.the-castle-hotel.com
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Canapés ***** Gazpacho, Brixham crab, basil ***** Tuna sashimi, soy jelly, wasabi, nori seaweed ***** Lettuce and oyster veloute ***** Turbot, trufﬂe crust, smoked ham hock, celeriac ***** Goat’s curd, beetroot, pain d’epice ***** Autumn berries, pistachio tuille panna cotta, grappa sorbet
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If you’re looking for a romantic meal then take a visit to Wells, the smallest city in England. Goodfellows Seafood Restaurant, owned by Adam and Martine Fellows, offers a modern take on ﬁne dining whilst still providing an intimate restaurant setting. Why not try Adam’s exciting new ‘Chef’s Table’ dining experience. The seven-course tasting menu provides the opportunity to taste Adam’s speciality ﬁsh dishes, while offering diners the chance to enjoy all the kitchen action captured on camera and viewed on ﬂatscreen TV. “Here at Goodfellows, our kitchen has always been the heart of the restaurant. Our ‘Chef’s Table’ concept creates a truly interactive experience for all our diners.” Adam Fellows, owner and Head Chef at Goodfellows Restaurants. Goodfellows Seafood Restaurant 5 Sadler Street, Wells, Somerset, BA5 2RR Call: 01749 673866 Visit: www.goodfellowswells.co.uk
7 + ($ 5 8 1 ' ( / /$ 5 0 6 +27 ( / Fine-dining, brasserie-style, or hearty pub classics, ﬁnd delicious food to suit every occasion from the different restaurant areas at the Arundell Arms. Our main restaurant is always popular with ﬁnedining dishes and attentive, friendly service which makes this an ideal restaurant for any event. We are really proud of our reputation for reliably good food. We have held two AA rosettes since 1987. The Arundell Arms Hotel Lifton, Devon, PL16 0AA Call: 01566 784666 Visit: www.arundellarms.com
The Kilted Chef Enjoy a memorable romantic dinner for two in the intimate, relaxing surroundings of The Kilted Chef, where ﬁne dining is at its best. Sensational, contemporary British food freshly prepared by supreme chef Douglas Bonar using high quality seasonal ingredients. Opening Times: Tuesday – Saturday 12pm – 2.30pm and 5pm – 10pm . Sunday 12pm – 4pm À La Carte and Table D’Hôte menus available. Savour a complimentary glass of Prosecco when booking dinner for two and mentioning Flavour Magazine. Offer ends 21.12.13. To reserve a table please call 01225 466688 or email email@example.com
The Kilted Chef, 7a Kingsmead Square, Bath BA1 2AB
5 ( 1'(=92 86 :, 1( % $5 5( 67$ 8 5 $ 1 7 This hidden gem in the heart of Exeter’s Southernhay quarter has been a ﬁrm favourite for discerning diners and wine lovers alike since 2006. Enjoy the warm, friendly welcome from Jemma and the team and the delicious daily menus of fantastic local produce prepared by Isaac and his chefs. Snuggle up on the comfy sofas and share a bottle from our extensive wine list with yummy suggestions to tempt every palate. Soak up the deliciously romantic atmosphere over a leisurely lunch or decadent dinner, amongst the open brick walls, low-beamed ceilings and rustic furniture, lit up by candles at night. And when the sun shines, relax in the alfresco paradise of the beautiful walled gardens at the back! Open Mon–Sat, 12 noon till late. Lunch served 12–2pm and dinner 6.30pm–9pm. 48
Rendezvous Wine Bar & Restaurant 38-40 Southernhay East, Exeter EX1 1PE Call: 01392 270 222 Visit: www.rendezvous-winebar.co.uk
7 + ( .,1 *6 $5 0 6 / , 7 721 The Kings Arms, Litton, is a place every couple should visit for a romantic meal or weekend getaway.
Its 14th-century charm is blended seamlessly with a contemporary low-lit restaurant. During the evening this homely pub is candlelit throughout, enhanced by open ďŹ res during the winter, with a team of elegant staff waiting on your every need. The cosy B&B rooms are well-equipped, comfortable and decorated with charm. Romantics can choose strawberries and champagne to be brought to your room or sit by the bubbling stream with an antipasti board or the sumptuous Litton surprise dessert to share. The pub is passionate about locally sourced produce and everything is organic and as fresh as it gets. One ďŹ nal tip: donâ€™t miss the afternoon teas! The Kings Arms is not to be missed and is the ideal country retreat for couples looking for a break. The Kings Arms Litton, Radstock, Somerset BA3 4PW Call: 01761 241301 or 01761 348097 Visit: www.kingsarmslitton.co.uk
Any restaurant that employs a ‘mystery chef’ in the kitchen is bound to intrigue and excite! This is the case at The Dining Rooms, housed in the ground ﬂoor of Clifton’s Regency Hotel, whose apparently well-known chef remains nameless. We tried to catch a glimpse of him or her during our meal, but remain none the wiser… Having opened in early 2013, The Dining Rooms offers its dining experience in two small rooms that have the intimacy of somebody’s front room rather than a bustling restaurant. Dimmed lighting and soft music, along with artwork from the local View Art Gallery, add to the atmosphere – and attentive and friendly service paired with an innovative and delicious menu made for a fantastic evening à deux. The menu, which changes seasonally, pays homage to both British and modern European cuisines, and offers a selection of dishes that will appeal to carnivores, vegetarians and pescetarians alike. I began my meal with the duck raviolo: a single large shell of perfectly al dente pasta encasing a generous amount of rich and meaty shredded duck. This was served on top of what the menu described as a fettuccine of vegetables, which turned out to be a generous nest of thinly sliced ribbons of carrot and courgette. The raviolo was accompanied by a small jug of a delicate and aromatic duck broth, which not only
lifted the ﬂavours of the dish but also served the purpose of keeping the pasta and vegetables warm while I was eating. For Chris, a wonderfully coarse pork and rabbit terrine with an amazing depth of ﬂavour, studded with large chunks of pistachio. It was a generous portion that was beautifully presented, the disc of terrine served on top of a ‘rocket grass’, which turned out to be a slightly larger disc of a vibrant green rocket jelly. Slices of tomato added a freshness to counter the richness of the terrine, and an incredibly sour olive and lemon conﬁt added a further new dimension. On to the mains, and my choice, according to our incredibly enthusiastic and charming waiter, has been one of the most popular of the current menu to date. An incredibly juicy corn-fed chicken breast came with the liberally seasoned and crispy skin still attached, alongside a scattering of peas and pea shoots and a thin but very tasty pea purée. The cheese and leek croquette that ﬁnished the dish was a great alternative to the more usual potato-based suspects, and a lovely contrast to the freshness of the pea accompaniments. My partner’s sirloin steak was served medium rare as requested, and it was evident that the meat had been well rested and seasoned before serving. The lack of steak knife was not a problem in the end, as the meat was so beautifully tender.
This was served with a parsley purée that certainly packed a punch; a soft and tender potato terrine with wonderfully crispy edges, and wild mushrooms dotted around the edge of the plate. An accompaniment of a wild mushroom fricassee nestled beneath the meat, caused controversy between us - adding a lovely earthy ﬂavour for me, but too overpowering for him. The chocolate bar that was chosen by my partner for dessert had been described to us as “incredibly rich, as a good chocolate brownie is,” and didn’t disappoint. A generous slab of a smooth chocolate terrine was plated side by side with a marsala espuma: a mound of boozy whipped cream that cut through the richness. Topped with small pearls of coffee caviar, it was reminiscent of a tiramisu in its ﬂavours, but with a far more modern and sophisticated approach. My choice of dessert, I’d been told, had divided opinion amongst previous diners after seeing it on the menu, some being intrigued, some simply a little scared. In all fairness, it’s not often that you see black olive caramel as part of a dessert… but it really did work. Paired with a strawberry gazpacho and beautiful mini macaroons, the caramel toned down the sweetness of the dessert, which could otherwise have been a little overwhelming. My favourite part, however, was the raspberry sorbet – made in-house and seriously intense in ﬂavour.
The Dining Rooms Regency Hotel, 40-44 St Paul’s Road Clifton, Bristol BS8 1LR Call: 0117 923 8788 Visit: www.thediningroomsclifton.co.uk
The Dining Rooms is the perfect place for those looking for an intimate dining environment in Bristol. Well-cooked, innovative food, attentive service and a relaxed environment combine to create the perfect blend of elements for a romantic evening. Highly recommended.
Christmas Tobacco Dock, London, 21 â€“ 24 November
Taste of Christmas returns for the sixth edition with a relaunch speciﬁcally designed to highlight the very best seasonal food and drink that London has to offer.
Taste of Christmas is making an exciting move to Tobacco Dock, a distinct Victorian venue ﬁlled with character and intrigue, at a slightly earlier date of 21-24 November. The venue delivers a stunning backdrop to create an event that really does champion ‘A Christmas Less Ordinary.’
New Sessions Taste of Christmas will now feature two sessions per day on weekdays, and extended sessions on Saturday and Sunday, allowing you to either enjoy a fantastic afternoon or make an unforgettable evening of the experience.
New Venue Taste of Christmas is moving to Tobacco Dock, which boasts a picturesque combination of indoor and outdoor space that will be transformed to provide a wintery Christmas backdrop. Tobacco Dock is in a central London location with easy access to ensure Taste of Christmas remains at the centre of the incredible food and drink scene that the capital has created, and even boasts 500 free car parking spaces. London’s Greatest Restaurants With so many spectacular London restaurants to shout about you can now create your own perfect menu from 12 of London’s hottest restaurants. Taste is about celebrating the best in food and drink and more of the capitals greatest restaurants allow you to experience as much of that as possible.
The unique design of Tobacco Dock allows for Taste of Christmas to introduce new features as well as develop already existing features so they are more engaging and interactive, more details of which will be announced on www.tasteofchristmas.com. Of course the heart of Taste of Christmas is ﬁrmly based within ﬁrst-class food and drink, so once again the ﬁnest chefs from across the globe will join forces in the Electrolux Taste Theatre to mark Taste’s discovery and indulgence-themed year, celebrating both established and new talents thinking outside the box to truly create a Christmas less ordinary. Another major element that will be returning this year is the Electrolux Chefs’ Secrets Feature, where visitors will have the opportunity to get hands-on and learn new cooking techniques from culinary
legends, all whilst trying out the latest kitchen technology from Electrolux. Taste favourites Molson Coors will also be returning for 2013 with their Explore World Beer Feature, allowing visitors to sample a selection of beers from around the world including Cobra from India, Singha from Thailand, Paciﬁco Clara, Modelo Especial and many, many more. Alongside Molson Coors at Tobacco Docks will be Taylors of Harrogate, and for a seasonal treat, Green & Blacks will be on hand to truly get the chocoholics in the seasonal spirit. On top of all this Taste of Christmas will also boast an incredible range of artisan producers, top-notch ingredients and boutique suppliers showcasing their ﬁnest wares. 180 premium brands are lined up to take part, providing a onestop shop for cheese and wine for your Christmas table, and gastronomic gifts for the foodie who has everything. For an unforgettable festive day out visit www.tasteofchristmas.com or call 0871 230 7132, and take advantage of a special ticket offer for ﬂavour magazine readers. Quote Flavour34 when booking and get two standard weekday tickets for £34.
Celebrating British Food Fortnight! Our delicious yogurt is made with 100% British milk right here in Somerset. When you buy our dairy, you're supporting British family farms. HAVE A PEEP INSIDE THE PACK FOR MORE DETAILS OR GO TO: WWW.YEOVALLEY.CO.UK
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Win tickets to The National Home Improvement Show Taking place on September 27–29 at Olympia London
The New Kitchen Garden With Mark Diacono Event at Yeo Valley on October 4th
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Tickets are Â£12 if booked in advance and Â£16 on the door. Visit www.improveyourhomeshow.co.uk.
The New Kitchen Garden with Mark Diacono .HYKLU[HSRH[@LV=HSSL`VU6J[VILY[O 6U6J[VILY[OQVPU4HYR+PHJVUV MVYTLYOLHKNHYKLULYH[/\NO -LHYUSL`>OP[[PUNZ[HSSÂ»Z9P]LY*V[[HNL MVYHUPUZWPYLK[HSRHIV\[NYV^PUN `V\YV^U ([6[[LY-HYTPU+L]VU4HYRNYV^Z ]PY[\HSS`UV[OPUN[OH[`V\JHUI\`PU [OLZ\WLYTHYRL[HUKOLYL]LHSZ[OH[PZ P[UVOHYKLY[VNYV^[OL\U\Z\HSHUK \[[LYS`KLSPJPV\Z[OHUP[PZ[OLLU[PYLS` VYKPUHY`4HYR^PSSNP]LWYHJ[PJHS HK]PJLVUNYV^PUNNV\YTL[KLSPNO[Z PUJS\KPUNZHSZPM`*OPSLHUN\H]HHUK :aLJO\HUWLWWLYHUK^PSSPUZWPYL`V\ [VIYPUNUL^Ã…H]V\YZHUKL_WLYPLUJLZ PU[V`V\YNHYKLUHUKRP[JOLU
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For more information visit www.yeovalley.co.uk To book and buy tickets, please visit www.ssit.org.uk or call 07429 140 918
An invitation to view Stoberry Garden lit up in the evening on Friday November 8th from 5pmâ€“8pm (ZKHYRULZZMHSSZ:[VILYY`.HYKLUPZSP[[VLUOHUJLL]LY`WHY["ZJ\SW[\YLZ ZLH[PUNHYLHZLUJSVZLK^P[OPU[PTH[LWSHU[PUN[OLYVUKH]LSTH[\YL[YLLZHUK ZOY\IZM\SSVM[L_[\YLHUKKL[HPSHUHI\UKHUJLVMH\[\TUILH\[` (ZH\[\TUNYHK\HSS`[\YUZ[V^PU[LY [OLZ[Y\J[\YLVM[OLNHYKLUPZYL]LHSLK 0SS\TPUH[PUN[OLNHYKLUNP]LZ\Z[OL VWWVY[\UP[`[VVIZLY]L[OLMHTPSPHYPUHUL^ ^H`0U[OL^HSSLKNHYKLU[OLSPNO[Z^PSS PSS\TPUH[LILH\[PM\SZJ\SW[\YLZTH[\YL[YLLZ HUK[OLZ[Y\J[\YLVMOLYIHJLV\ZIVYKLYZ 0UJVU[YHZ[[OLSV^LYNHYKLUVMMLYZHUVWLU HZWLJ[SHYNLVYUHTLU[HSNYHZZLZY\Z[SPUN PU[OLL]LUPUNIYLLaLNHYKLUZJ\SW[\YLZ ILH\[PM\SYLÃ…LJ[PVUZPU[OLWVUKHUK[OLMHPY` SPNO[ZVM>LSSZZWYLHKV\[ILMVYL`V\ 6U-YPKH`[O5V]LTILYPUZ[LHKVM[OL \Z\HSIVUÃ„YL^O`UV[LUQV`HUL]LUPUNV\[ ^P[OMYPLUKZHUKMHTPS`PU[OLYLSH_PUNWLHJL VM:[VILYY`.HYKLUH[UPNO[&9LMYLZOTLU[Z ^PSSILH]HPSHISLHSVUN^P[OZWHYRSLYZMVY[OL JOPSKYLU (Z[OLSHZ[5.:6WLU.HYKLUVM KVUÂ»[TPZZ`V\YJOHUJL[VLUQV`H]LY` ZWLJPHSL]LUPUN;PJRL[ZHYLÂ‰MVYHK\S[Z HUKMYLLMVYJOPSKYLU^P[OHSSWYVJLLKZ NVPUN[V[OL5.:)YPUN`V\Y^VVSS`Q\TWLY HUKH[VYJO;OLYLPZHTWSLWHYRPUNPU[OL Ã„LSKUL_[[V[OLNHYKLU>LSVVRMVY^HYK [V^LSJVTPUN`V\WSLHZLYPUN-YHUJLZMVY KL[HPSZVU
Stoberry Park Garden, Stoberry Park, Wells, Somerset BA5 3LD Call 01749 672 906 or visit www.stoberry-park.co.uk
> ﬂavour nick harman
;HZ[`IPYKZVY[HIVV& Nick Harman muses on what not to eat.
News that a swan had apparently been found barbecued on the banks of the river Thames sent shockwaves around the capital. There were those who rather predictably said it was the work of Eastern European immigrants and those who suspected it was the work of young food bloggers, whose obsession with anything grilled is legendary. All were united in their condemnation of the act however, and so my comments to the effect that I wondered what it tasted like and that I rather wished I had been invited to the ‘pop up’, made people edge away from me nervously and ﬁnd someone else to express their horror to. We are a bit odd in this country about what meat we eat. We have made our choice not on grounds of availability, if we did then rats would surely be the most eaten meat in the country, but on what animals
we ﬁnd it morally repugnant to eat. For many people the line blurs around rabbits. Cute, cuddly pets they may be but we also eat them and generally feel no qualms. I am prepared to try most things given a chance. We must assume that someone, almost certainly French, has already tried things like rats and, swearing horrible French oaths each time, found them inedible whatever cooking method was used. It was a brave person who ﬁrst ate an oyster or a snail and we are lucky they did or we would never have known how delicious they were. I have often wondered what giant panda tastes like, or koala bear. The latter might possibly taste rather too strongly of eucalyptus, but the panda, with its diet of bamboo, could prove to be very tasty indeed which might
Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk 66
explain its rarity – the Chinese are keeping this delicacy to themselves. But swans actually have a history of being eaten. In Tudor and Elizabethan times no feast was complete without a swan on the table, often stuffed with other birds to create a dish of stomachbusting proportions, so we have to assume swan tastes rather good. Today swans are protected of course under the 1981 Countryside and Wildlife act and killing one was once a treasonable offence punishable by hanging; all swans are Crown property and owned by the Queen. We may never know what really happened to the swan found dead last week. I only hope that if someone did eat it that they did so with due respect and didn’t shove it in a bun with a lettuce leaf and cover it in ketchup. That would really have been a crime.
The culinary home of The Porter’s resident double Michelin-starred chef Rob Clayton. Drop by for breakfast, stay for lunch or book for dinner. Rob will be serving modern British food in the casual kitchen surrounds of Bath’s newest food haven.
CLAYTON’S KITCHEN AT THE PORTER 15A George St, Bath BA1 2EN T +44 (0)1225 585 100 F +44 (0)1225 585 200 email@example.com www.theporter.co.uk @PorterBath
For people who love local food.