Flavour south west issue 62

Page 1

for people who love local food

South West | Issue 62

www.flavourmagazine.com

0[»Z )LNPUUPUN ;V 3VVR ( 3V[ 3PRL *OYPZ[THZ¯ All you need to prepare a great Christmas feast

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)YPZ[VS»Z /HYIV\YZPKL Our pick of the area’s eating and drinking options

.I\ 7N <PM 4IVL Christmas doesn’t necessarily need to mean turkey…

INSIDE

Your regular Greenliving edition

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All our delicious ciders under one roof! Pop in or order online ne today!

Bottled cider

Branded goods

Draught cider

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Order online at:

ww w.thatcherscider.co.uk Thatchers Cider Company Ltd, Myrtle Farm, Sandford, Somerset BS25 5RA Tel: 01934 822862


> flavour contents Editor Emily Knight Email: emily#flavourmagazine.com Art Director Farrah Fortnam Email: design#flavourmagazine.com

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Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda#flavourmagazine.com Paris Bielby Email: Paris@flavourmagazine.com Contributors Angela Mount and Duncan Shine Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter#flavourmagazine.com For competition entries Email: competitions#flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com

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flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter#flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

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Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

In Season Tom Bowles brings us the best of the season’s produce

25 Fat Of The Land Rounding up the best butchers and farm shops 33 Christmas Helping with your festive food and drink plans 48 Goodfellows Seafood Restaurant, Wells Emily Knight samples the chef’s table tasting menu 53 Bristol’s Harbourside Enjoy some of the area’s food and drink venues 61 Back To School Helping you to find the perfect school

welcome We’re feeling quite autumnal here at flavour this month, with thoughts turning to ingredients such as blackberries and sloes in our In Season Recipes (page 10) and an increased focus on Christmas… after all, it’s only a few months away! Our Christmas guide (page 33) gives some useful suggestions to aid in your festive food and drink planning – whether at home or dining out – and our Fat of the Land feature (page 25) highlights some fantastic local farm shops and butchers who can provide you with top-quality meat and poultry. If you’re Bristol-based or just fancy a visit, take a look at our guide to the city’s Harbourside area (page 53), where you’ll find a round-up of the area’s great eating and drinking options – or turn to page 50 where you’ll find out all about the great changes taking place at restaurant and bar Goldbrick House. We’ll help you to celebrate National Chocolate Week on page 44, encourage you to visit one of Elite Hotels’ venues on page 58 and you’ll find our regular Green Living feature on page 67: a jam-packed issue that we hope you’ll enjoy reading as much as we enjoyed putting it together! Happy reading!

Emily EMILY KNIGHT

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If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries'flavourmagazine.com

[OPZ TVU[O BRISTOL’S BETTER FOOD COMPANY WINS SOIL ASSOCIATION’S 2013 BEST INDEPENDENT RETAILER AWARD COMPETITION WINNERS

Bristol’s organic shops and café won a coveted award on Thursday 19 September – Soil Association’s 2013 Best Independent Retailer award. The award, in its 27th year, is the most prestigious and widely respected in the organic sector.

Congratulations go to Tom Hayes, who wins

What is unique about The Better Food Company is that they are outward facing and drive the organic message regarding bees, environment, health and community as much as driving the retail business.

an overnight stay for two with dinner at Lower Slaughter Manor

Our judges said, “With two thriving stores in Bristol and a customer base growing every year, The Better Food Company offers the best example of independent retailing of organic that extends well beyond the product range and stores. For The Better Food Company, it is a ‘way of life’ and core to their business objectives.

WELL DONE!

“The Better Food Company showed great examples of embracing every opportunity for pulling in more customers, innovating on ranges, communicating through newsletters and staging unusual events to grab the attention of the public.” www.betterfood.co.uk

WIN! A ONE-NIGHT STAY PLUS DINNER AT THE CASTLE AT TAUNTON The Castle at Taunton is a four-star, historic castle hotel located in Taunton town centre. e. Each of its 44 luxurious bedrooms offers its own distinct personality, offering a home away from home. “Everything was superb,” quoted The Good Food Guide 2014, of the hotel’s Castle Bow Bar & Grill where head chef Liam Finnegan uses only the best local ingredients to highlight the West Country at its finest. One lucky flavour reader will win an overnight stay for two in a Garden Room, with a three course dinner in The Castle’s Art Deco restaurant and English breakfast, worth in the region of £325. To enter, email competitions@flavourmagazine.com, with “The Castle” in the subject line and your full contact details in the email body. Good luck! Terms and conditions: The prize can be enjoyed from Thursday to Saturday before the end of December 2013 (subject to availability). No drinks are included and there is no cash alternative.

www.the-castle-hotel.com/flavour 4

WIN!


WINE OF THE

MONTH AN EVENING WITH THE CHEFS Four of Bristol’s best-loved eateries are switching kitchens during October and November for four evenings of fine dining, sure to warm the cockles of the city’s food-loving hearts.

The first evening is hosted by organising venue The Star & Dove, Totterdown, on Tuesday 8th October 2013 where Josh Eggleton (Pony & Trap), James Wilkins (Wilks Restaurant) and Toby Gritten (The Pump House), will spend the evening cooking for the Star and Dove customers. With all four venues hosting an ‘Evening With The Chefs’ event, each chef will depart from their usual kitchens to spend an evening cooking with one another in the other three restaurants.

jumped at it, so why not? It’s a great opportunity for us and the customers as well as great fun, we’re looking forward to cooking up a storm in each other’s kitchens.” Bristol’s foodies are reaping the rewards this autumn, as the respect and camaraderie among the city’s awardwinning chefs continues to boost the city’s burgeoning status as a culinary ‘place to be’. An Evening With The Chefs - Schedule

All four chefs will cook each night with the host restaurant cooking the main course, canapés and amuse bouche. Guest chefs will present the first course, fish course and dessert. Tim Denny from The Star & Dove arranged the event and said:

IjZhYVn -i] DXidWZg ,eb " The Star & Dove IjZhYVn ''cY DXidWZg ,eb " L^a`h LZYcZhYVn +i] CdkZbWZg ,eb " The Pony & Trap IjZhYVn &.i] CdkZbWZg ,eb " The Pump House

“This isn’t the first time this event has taken place in Bristol; it was such a great success a couple of years ago that we wanted to do it again and the other chefs

For more information, visit www. staranddove.co.uk/index.php/events/ coming-soon or call The Star & Dove on 0117 933 2892.

In July I started to look for some new wines to sell this autumn and a dear friend suggested to the owner of Vignalta, a winery in the Veneto region, that he should contact me. Well, some samples arrived at the end of July and while I had an idea of what to expect, I was not fully certain. There was one wine that took me by complete surprise; it was a wine called Gemola from Colli Euganei. Gemola is a wonderful blend of 70 per cent Merlot and 30 per cent Cabernet Franc. My thought was that the wine would not be rich enough but how wrong I was! There are times when you open wines and they are in a time of their life cycle when everything is in harmony; well this was one of those occasions. Gemola has a very special vineyard and microclimate, the soil in the vineyard is volcanic which helps to produce wines with lovely elegance. The 2007 vintage has harmonious elements of blackberry jam and liquorice; it has sweet notes and dark chocolate. Gemola coats your palate; it is silky smooth with no harsh edges at all. It is balanced and delightful. This will certainly be a wine to enjoy through the autumn and winter months with venison and rib of beef.

Available through Sommelier’s Choice £37.50 - £40.00

All wines available from:

www.sommelierschoice.com 5


> flavour news

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Gordon Jones is head chef at Bath’s Menu Gordon Jones - a restaurant offering ‘surprise menus’ for lunch and dinner. Flavour caught up with Gordon to see what’s currently on the agenda. This month’s diary is all about taking from the past and bringing into the future. Very philosophical you may think, but it’s actually just a way for us to celebrate our milestones: For this year’s Bath October Feast we are holding a special ‘MGJ taste of 2013’ event. We are putting together a nine-course menu that’s going to comprise of the best dishes so far this year, and it is starting to prove harder than I first thought due to the simple fact that I have forgotten most of the things we cooked last month never mind eight months ago! Note to myself: Start writing things down, Gordon. So MGJ a taste of 2013 is going to be running for three days only; Tuesday 29 until Thursday 31. For the price of £99 guests will enjoy a nine-course menu and a six-glass wine flight. And if all goes well it might be a permanent feature at MGJ next year! To tickle your taste buds, the one dish from the past year that I’m definitely going to be incorporating into MGJ Taste of 2013 is chocolate, banana and foie gras. It’s a sure favourite, meltin-your-mouth dish that will be fun to recreate! Now I just have to remember the rest! But I’m sure I will do, so we hope you’ll come and try it and, as this is our last diary, I just wanted to say thank you to the readers and flavour magazine for putting up with my cheeky write ups! www.menugordonjones.co.uk 6

MENDIP MOMENTS ICE CREAM WINS BEST FOOD PRODUCER IN TASTE OF SOMERSET AWARDS Mendip Moments has been voted the Best Food Producer in the Taste of Somerset Awards, a celebration of the best of Somerset food and drink. The winners were announced at a glittering reception hosted by celebrity chef Peter Gorton. On being presented with a certificate and commemorative plate, Jayne Lunnon, Director of Mendip Moments, said: “It is fantastic to receive this kind of recognition. We started the company in 2006, making ice cream on the family farm as a way of keeping our cows in the fields. We have worked so hard over the years to build up

the business whilst maintaining the premium quality that our customers have come to expect. We are incredibly proud of our ice cream and delighted that the judges seem to agree with us!” Mendip Moments is available from independent retailers, delicatessens and farm shops, as well as a selection of restaurants and cafes. It retails from £4.69 for 500ml. For further information on Mendip Moments and for a full list of flavours, please visit www.mendipmoments.co.uk

2013 BATH GOOD FOOD AWARDS SHORTLIST ANNOUNCED The shortlist for this year’s Awards has been announced. Now in its third year, the Bath Good Food Awards – sponsored by Nicholas Wylde Goldsmith and Jeweller, Waitrose, The Wine & Spirit Education Trust and Workbrands - are voted for by the city’s food lovers, residents and visitors, with this year’s votes totalling over 14,000. The top five restaurants, cafés and delis in each category, together with the top 10 from the Best Chef and Best Restaurant categories, will now go forward to the final judging by a panel of nationally and locally recognised food and wine experts.

The Bath Good Food Awards Gala evening will be held at the Bath Racecourse on Sunday 17th November with a menu devised by Sam Moody, Executive Chef at the Bath Priory, and wines supplied by Enotria Winecellars. There are 18 categories in the Local Producers section covering food and drink, and 27 in the Restaurant section, including the prestigious titles of Best Chef, Best Restaurant and Best Ambassador for Bath Food. To view the shortlist, please visit: www.bathgoodfood.co.uk


> flavour news

CHEF STEPHEN J GOMES NAMED ENGLISH CURRY CHEF OF THE YEAR Already Cobra Good Curry Chef of the Year 2013, Stephen Gomes has now been named Chef of the Year at the prestigious English Curry Awards. The prestigious English Curry Awards is an opportunity for the Asian cuisine industry to gather and celebrate the very best of England’s restaurants, caterers, chefs and those who have dedicated themselves to their craft. Chef Stephen Gomes won the highly coveted award of Chef of the Year. Having only opened his first English restaurant Meluha in Bristol in April, this accolade was especially flattering. Nominated anonymously by customers, the award was judged by mystery diners who are Indian food experts and looking for perfection. The award recognises Stephen’s dedication to the future of Indian food, from his

perspective of taking dishes routed firmly in authenticity and adding a twist of modernity such as his beautiful, delicately flavoured Lamb Railway Curry, originally served to the Raj on the first railways and still popular to this day, now served at Meluha in Kilner jars with the moreish and perfectly matched chilli, chocolate and honey naan. Speaking on the opening of Meluha he commented: “I have always wanted to evolve my commitment to Indian cuisine and felt that it was time to move this to the future. When using food science alongside authentic Indian dishes it is a little more difficult as there are a lot of spices and it’s all about balance. I wanted to ensure the result was as delicious as it was visually enchanting, after all that’s the beauty of India itself!” www.meluha.co.uk

A TASTE OF THE MED IN THE HEART OF PORTISHEAD

Portishead locals and wine enthusiasts Mike Yeatman and his wife Chris are opening a new tapas restaurant in Portishead on 4 October. The opening of Venga will be the culmination of months of hard work transforming the former cafe at 24 High Street, previously empty for nearly two years.

months ago with the refurbishment and guest accommodation now open above the tapas bar, comprising boutique bed and breakfast accommodation and a spacious, self-catering two-bedroom loft apartment.

The project started at the beginning of the year and really started to take shape five

The opening of Venga is the realisation of a dream that Mike and Chris have been

considering for a number of years. The idea was first conceived during the couple’s travels and they have drawn on many influences for the menu; from Barcelona, Madrid and Granada. Venga will offer informal dining for the authentic Mediterranean experience; the simply cooked menu will be freshly prepared sourcing ingredients as locally as possible; even the authentic charcuterie comes from Castellano’s in Downend. “By supporting local business where possible, we are aiming to bring the taste of the Mediterranean with the best the South West has to offer, both in reducing food miles and helping local economies,” Mike said, describing the ethos behind Venga. Reservations are now being taken and can be made by telephoning 01275 814391 or 07730 337480. For more information visit www.vengauk.co.uk 7


> flavour in season

3ITM Kale is a descendant of the cabbage family. It is also a very hardy winter vegetable (despite its appearance) and partners very well in dishes with winter game. It has a much richer flavour than some cabbage varieties and, like all good greens, is packed with goodness. Small kale leaves are often younger and can be sweeter but avoid discoloured leaves as these may be past their best. Large leaves often come with thicker stalks which require more cooking than the leaves so be careful. It is also best as soon as it has been picked as it doesn’t store too well.

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;TWM[ Sloes can be found in abundance in many hedgerows throughout October and are often thought of as the last fruit of autumn. They are small, inky skinned fruits with a green flesh and are another seasonal delight that is best after the first frost. They have a very sharp – acidic taste to them when raw and so are best used in jams and liqueurs. When preparing them for the latter, the alcohol needs to permeate the skin which helps if the fruits have faced a frost or you could simply prick with a needle. Pick unblemished berries that are slightly yielding to the touch.

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> flavour in season

+MTMZQIK An unusual looking root veg, celeriac is knobbly and round and smells distinctly like celery. It is the root of some celery varieties and has similar flavour although a bit milder and sweeter. Pick out roots that are medium in size as if they are too large they can be quite woody. They should also be firm to the touch with fresh leaves at the top if still attached and will keep well in the fridge for a good week. Be prepared for a bit of wastage when you prepare them as they need to be peeled. Try them thinly sliced and mixed with potatoes in a gratin.

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.

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Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: #hartleyFarm

*TIKSJMZZQM[ Wonderfully juicy, blackberries should be a firm favourite in your kitchen throughout the autumn. They are a purple-black berry with a flavour ranging from the sweet and juicy larger berries to the more tart and firm smaller berries. One of my favourite childhood recipes was that of blackberry and apple crumble which makes use of two abundant fruits at the time of year. If possible, pick them rather than buy them as they do not store that well. If you are buying in punnets make sure the berries are plump and shiny and not squashed. If you have picked them place them on kitchen paper on a plate in the fridge so that they don’t get crushed. However, they are best eaten right away!

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1V ;MI[WV :MKQXM[ ALLIUM BRASSERIE’S

;\ZJHU :V\W VM )SHJR 2HSL :TVRLK 7HUJL[[H HUK >OP[L )LHUZ INGREDIENTS 500g black kale, stalks removed and washed 100g smoked pancetta, diced into small lardons 1 onion 2 carrots

METHOD Bring a pan of salted water to the boil – just enough to cover the kale. Add the kale and boil for 5 minutes until tender and cooked through – not just wilted. Drain the kale, reserving the cooking liquor. Peel and finely chop the onion, celery, carrots, garlic, chilli, celeriac and turnips into 1cm dice.

2 sticks celery Half a celeriac

In a deep pot, put 75ml of the olive oil and place on a medium heat. Add the pancetta and gently fry till golden and the fats are released.

2 turnips 3 cloves garlic 1 red chilli, seeds removed 100ml olive oil

Add the chopped vegetables and sweat till tender. Add the beans, cooked kale, reserved cooking liquor and all herbs bar the parsley, season and simmer for 20 minutes.

Sherry vinegar 250g cooked white beans or good-quality tinned beans 10 sprigs thyme

Check the seasoning and add a splash of sherry vinegar, the parsley and the remaining olive oil.

2 bay leaves

Serve with crusty bread.

1 sprig rosemary 1 bunch flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

www.abbeyhotelbath.co.uk/allium-brasserie

THE GREAT BRITISH MEAT COMPANY’S

/H` )HRLK 3LN VM 3HTI ^P[O *LSLYPHJ .YH[PU SERVES 6 INGREDIENTS 1.8kg British leg of lamb 3 large handfuls of hay

METHOD Line the bottom of a deep roasting tin with parchment paper and add 2 large handfuls of hay. You want the hay to form a nest so it needs to be 4-5cm deep. Mix the garlic with 3 tablespoons of olive oil, the mixed herbs and salt and pepper to taste. Pour this evenly over the lamb and place in the middle of the hay nest. Put the remaining hay on top of the lamb, cover and double wrap in parchment paper and foil. Ensure everything is wrapped, as the hay can catch fire.

100ml olive oil Couple of sprigs of fresh herbs

Bake in a moderately hot oven (200°C/Gas Mark 6) for 2 hours.

5 garlic cloves, crushed

Put the celeriac in a large bowl with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, cream, three crushed garlic cloves and chilli flakes. Toss until the celeriac slices are well coated and everything is evenly mixed. Pour into a medium ovenproof dish and arrange so the majority are lying fairly flat.

1kg celeriac, peeled and thinly sliced

Place in the oven when the lamb has 30 minutes cooking time remaining.

1 teaspoon dried chilli flakes 250ml single cream Salt and pepper

Remove the lamb, and leave for at least 20 minutes. Roast the gratin for a further 20 minutes, and if you like it crispy, pop it under the grill to brown for a couple of minutes. Take the parchment paper and foil off the lamb, and scrape away any blackened hay. Carve into thick slices, and serve with the gratin.

www.yeovalley.co.uk 10


> flavour in season recipes

SQUARE FOOD FOUNDATION – COMMUNITY COOKERY SCHOOL’S

:SVL (WWSL 1LSS` INGREDIENTS 600g sloes, washed 600g of cooking apples Sugar METHOD Wash the apples, without peeling or coring. Roughly chop and remove any bad bits. Pick through sloes, removing any squidgy ones and place them in a heavy bottomed saucepan along with the apple.

over a bowl. Cover with a saucepan lid or tea towel, and leave to drip overnight The next day measure the juice. This will determine how much sugar to add. Add 400g of sugar per 500ml of liquid (1lb per pint).

Add enough water to cover half the fruit. Bring slowly to the boil and then turn down to simmer very gently until all the fruit is squishy.

Pour the juice into a heavy bottomed saucepan and add your sugar. Heat gently, stirring from time to time, making sure that the sugar has dissolved before bringing slowly to the boil.

Pour the cooked fruit through muslin or a jelly bag and leave the mixture to drip

You’ll need a rolling boil for about 10 minutes before testing for a set

(put a blob on a cold plate, leave for a minute and then push with your finger – if it wrinkles it is done). Pop a knob of butter in to reduce the scum on top. When jelly has reached setting point carefully pour into warm sterilised jars. This will be super-hot, so use a ladle and a funnel to avoid burns. Cover immediately with lids. When cold you can label them, and store in a cool, dark place – ready for Christmas.

www.squarefoodfoundation.co.uk

THE KILTED CHEF’S

)SHJRILYY` 9VHZ[LK 3VPU VM =LUPZVU HUK 3HUNV\Z[PULZ PU H =HUPSSH 1\Z >P[O ILL[YVV[ HUK HY[PJOVRL KH\WOPUVPZL SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 4x 4oz venison loin 4 slices of pancetta 12 langoustine tails 1 leek 1 punnet of blackberries 1 small bag of spinach 4 chopped shallots 1/3 vanilla pod 1 tbs chopped tarragon 1/4 pint double cream Small glass of white wine Small glass of red wine Herbs to garnish 1 tbs butter

FOR THE BEETROOT AND ARTICHOKE DAUPHINOISE: 1 lb beetroot 1 sliced red onion 1/2 pint double cream 6 roughly chopped artichoke hearts 4 eggs 1/2 pint full fat milk

METHOD Place the sliced beetroot, onion and artichokes in a deep, buttered, metal tray. Mix the eggs and cream together with the garlic purée, salt, pepper and chopped tarragon and pour over sliced vegetables. Add grated Parmesan and bake in the oven at Gas mark 4 for 15-20 minutes until soft and golden brown. Seal the venison in the hot pan with blackberries, and add salt and pepper, until brown all over. Transfer to the oven at Gas mark 4 for 5 minutes to keep the meat pink. Chop the spinach, leek and shallots and sauté in butter until wilted. Add the langoustines, tarragon, white wine and cream and cook the mixture slowly until it thickens.

Grated Parmesan 1/2 tbs garlic purée 1/2 tbs chopped tarragon Salt and pepper

Please see website for instructions on how to make the Vanilla Jus

Take the venison out of the oven (and remove to rest) and pour the red wine and shallots into the pan to let the venison juices reduce. Place the venison on the top of the dauphinoise, drizzle the red wine sauce over the top and finish with grilled pancetta. Serve with the langoustines mixture in a small cup on the side.

www.thekiltedchef.com

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> flavour fab foodie reads

MHI MVVKPL YLHKZ For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

PICK OF THE MONTH!

PULSE

JENNY CHANDLER, PAVILION, £25 In her latest book, Bristol-based food writer Jenny Chandler proves that pulses really are back in fashion.

Pulse features over 160 beautifully photographed recipes for starters, dips, mains and even desserts such as chocolate and black bean brownies – along with all you need to know about different types of pulses, from purchase to preparation. Chandler’s book is aimed at meat eaters and non-meat eaters alike: the perfect guide to the versatility of the humble pulse.

SUN BREAD AND STICKY TOFFEE SARAH AL-HAMAD, INTERLINK PUBLISHING,

COOKING WITH BEER & CIDER IAN SALISBURY & BUTCOMBE BREWERY, SALISBURY ASSOCIATES, £9.95

£17.99

Dates are one of the oldest cultivated foods, with over 600 varieties grown around the world today. Sarah al-Hamad’s latest book focuses on this sweet and sticky ingredient, giving us a book packed with delicious natural and healthy recipes that demonstrate the versatility of dates and date syrup. Stunning photography and interesting facts about dateproducing regions sit alongside a wealth of recipes, from cranberry and date muffins to coconut and date-stuffed naans, from date ice cream to desert date fudge. 12

THE GREAT CORNISH FOOD BOOK CORNWALL FOOD & DRINK, MUSE MEDIA, £17.99

Cooking With Beer & Cider is the perfect local book for those who enjoy experimenting with beer and cider in their dishes, featuring 19 recipes using Butcombe Beer or Ashton Press Cider.

Subtitled A collection of recipes, tales and morsels from the ocean, fields and clifftops of Cornwall, this is a book packed with a wealth of information from the exciting food hub that is Cornwall.

The beautifully photographed recipes include starters, mains and desserts, with recipes including a Somerset Cheddar and Butcombe soup, tarragon chicken in cider with linguine, and Brunel’s chocolate cake. A great local gift idea, available in Bristol’s Tesco stores, Butcombe pubs and the brewery’s online shop.

Filled with new recipes, images, hints and tips, ‘how-tos’ and insight from some of Cornwall’s biggest names in food and drink, this book is a must-have for anyone with an appetite for Cornwall and its fastgrowing gastro culture.


Advertise with Flavour Want to reach thousands of food lovers in the South West? Flavour offers competitive rates to local food and drink businesses. For more information, call Miranda on 0117 230 0235 or Paris on 0117 977 9188. www.avourmagazine.com


> flavour loves

ÅH]V\Y Loves Looking to try something a little different? Have a look at our round-up of products we’ve recently tried and loved for inspiration...

)H[O /HY]LZ[ 9HWLZLLK 6PS Double award-winning, cold pressed Bath Harvest Rapeseed Oil has a delightful light, nutty flavour and a glorious golden colour. It is simply cold pressed, filtered and bottled from seed grown at Wilmington Farm on the doorstep of Bath and can be used for everything in the kitchen from salads to stir-frying. Look out for their infused oils complementing the original range with classic flavours available such as garlic, lemon, chilli and rosemary. For stockists visit website: www.bathharvestoils.co.uk

7VY[SLIH` 7VWJVYU Portlebay Popcorn launched its brand new Kracklecorn range in January. Kracklecorn is very different to ordinary popcorn: the kernels are hand-popped in Devon with a splash of rapeseed oil and a touch of raw cane sugar to give Kracklecorn a delicious crunchy and brittle texture. Sea salt is then sprinkled or specially developed 100% natural Kracklecorn seasonings. Choose from Classic, Bacon & Maple Syrup, Wasabi & Sweet Ginger, Chilli & Lime or Applewood Smoked Cheddar variants, available in supermarkets, delis, farmers’ markets and selected cinemas nationwide. www.portlebaypopcorn.com

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> flavour loves

2PU[HYV :LLKZ For authentic Japanese-style snacks, try Kintaro, whose range of flavoured pumpkin seeds provide a snack that is both healthy and bursting with flavour. Offering you all the benefits of pumpkin seeds, this super-flavoured superfood provides high levels of zinc and omega 3 and will give you a healthy dose of fibre and the antioxidant vitamin E. Choose from their Wasabi, Spicy, BBQ or Vanilla flavours: the perfect healthy option for your lunch box. ww.kintaro.co.uk

-\ZZLSZ -PUL -VVKZ Fussels extra virgin cold pressed oil is made by Andy on his Somerset farm. With half the saturated fat, 10 times the omega 3 of olive oil and a higher burning point, it’s the ideal choice for anyone who wants a better, more versatile answer to their cooking requirements. Now the new spray bottle (developed with the Lesley Waters cookery school) gives you even more control over how much oil you use, whatever you use it for in the kitchen. Available in selected Tesco stores for £2.49, or online at: www.fusselsfinefoods.co.uk.

)YPZ[VS )S\L .SHZZ If you haven’t already been mesmerised by the glorious displays of glass, the vibrant colours and shapes on show in the NEW Original Bristol Blue Glass Studio and Shop, you must visit soon!! Free entry to watch the glass blowers at work and the opportunity to blow your very own piece of Bristol Blue Glass for just £12.50 if you so desire. As well as the Classic Bristol Blue and Ruby Glass collections, the shop is bursting with colour. Beautiful glass baubles, stunning jewellery and unique freestyle pieces. The Original Bristol Blue Glass Team are sure to give you a very warm welcome, or of course take a look at the new website – you’ll be glad you did!! Call: 0117 972 0818 Email: bristolblueglass@bristol-glass.co.uk Visit: www.bristol-glass.co.uk

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JON THORNER’S

the

BUTCHER’S How to bone and roll a whole chicken Instead of just roasting your whole chicken, try something a bit different and create a delicious stuffed boneless joint.

4. Cut through the thigh and drumstick joint. Make an incision into the thigh meat, cut away the thigh bone and do the same with the drumstick.

tip

streaky bacon before cooking.

All good butchers will bone and roll a whole chicken for you if you ask, but if you fancy having a go yourself, follow our step-by-step guide: 1. Source a good-quality, whole chicken, ideally free range, from a reputable butcher. TIP: Don’t discard the carcass, use it to make a stock or chicken soup. 5. Remove the wing joint by cutting the bone away from the meat.

Watch the video in full on YouTube on the Jon Thorner channel or scan this code on your smartphone.

2. Using a sharp knife, cut along the breastbone and start to cut the breast meat away from the carcass. Be very careful to not cut through the skin.

6. You will now have a completely boneless whole chicken. At this stage you could add a stuffing of your choice between the breast meat and wrap the legs and wings over the middle.

3. Repeat on the other side and remove the chicken carcass.

Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop Pylle, Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA

7. The stuffed, boned and rolled whole chicken is ready for roasting. For extra flavour you could cover the breasts with rashers of smoked 16

Jon Thorner is the founder of Jon Thorner’s Ltd and is South West Chairman of the Q Guild of Butchers association. The awardwinning businessman has a farm shop near Shepton Mallet, five butchery counters across the South West and makes fantastic pies...

01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk Twitter: #JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorner’s


> flavour romy’s kitchen

Romy Gill is a chef, businesswoman, writer, wife, mother and runner! She focuses on the nutrition and healthy aspects of Indian cooking. At the time of writing, my first-ever restaurant has been open for almost a month, and what a journey it’s been! It’s been great to hear feedback from customers – both local and from further afield.

Others are recipes that I’ve developed and adapted since I’ve been in the UK. Gurnard and monkfish, for example, are fish that I had never heard of when I was in India, and are proving to be popular dishes.

dining, as that’s something that I am passionate about. The hot Parsee chicken is a fantastic sweet and sour option, cooked with lots of Kashmiri chillies, vinegar, tamarind, onions and spices.

The dishes on my menu all mean something special to me – many are recipes that I have been eating since I was a child back in India, passed down through the family from generation to generation. I learned how to cook from my mother, absorbing recipes and styles of cooking from all over India through the multicultural cultur cul t al community tur commun com mu ity in which mun w which ch she she grew grew ew up up.

The best-selling dishes on the menu at the moment are both chicken dishes – the chicken in pomegranate paste, and the hot Parsee chicken. The former is very popular amongst children with its combination of fresh pomegranate and desiccated coconut. I wanted to make sure there were options for family

At lunchtime I offer a range of snacks such as samosas, pakoras and spicy crab cakes, along with both a meat and a vegetarian thali. A thali is essentially a selection of small portions of different dishes; a great way of introducing customers to a variety of options that they may not normally have ordered. I’m also keeping my prices low, as I want people to be able to experience authentic, healthy Indian food whenever they want, and not just as a special treat. Although the restaurant life can be hard work, it’s something that I’ve been aiming to achieve for years, and I’m so grateful to finally be there. Thank you to all who have supported me on this journey! Romy’s Kitchen 2 Castle Street, Thornbury, Bristol BS35 1HB Call: 01454 416728

Follow Romy Follow Romy on Twitter @romyskitchen Find Romy on Facebook under Romy’s Kitchen

Visit Romy’s site at: V

www.romyskitchen.co.uk

17


> flavour bertinet

[HY[L UVYTHUKL Richard Bertinet cooks up a beautiful autumnal recipe www.thebertinetkitchen.com October in Bath is all about the Great Bath Feast. The Feast is unusual as a food festival in that it is a groundup, grassroots festival, which draws its strength from the fabulous small producers in and around the area. Some parts of this recipe require preparing ahead , so read it through before you roll up your sleeves. I was browsing through the programme as I came to put pen to paper and was drawn to the events that celebrate this: the celebration of local game at The

;HY[L 5VYTHUKL FOR THE SWEET PASTRY: 350g flour 125g butter 125g sugar 2 eggs plus 1 egg yolk Pinch of salt METHOD Put the flour and salt into a bowl. Put the butter between 2 pieces of greaseproof paper, and bash it firmly with a rolling pin until it is 1cm thick and pliable. Put the butter into the bowl with the flour and tear it into pieces. Try and keep the butter completely coated with flour at all times so it doesn’t stick. Gently flake the butter into the flour as if you are dealing a pack of cards, and stop when the pieces of butter are the size of your little fingernail. Tip the eggs and yolk into the flour and mix everything together. Work the dough in the bowl by pressing down with both thumbs, turning the bowl a quarter turn and repeating a few times. Turn the dough out and work and turn it a few more times. Fold the dough over onto itself and press it down with your fingertips. Repeat this process until the dough is like plasticine and looks homogeneous. Shape the dough into a square by tapping the edges 18

on the work surface so you start with a neat shape rather than rough edges. Rest the pastry in the fridge for at least 1 hour, preferably more. FOR THE ALMOND CREAM: 3250g unsalted butter 250g caster sugar 250g ground almonds 50g flour 3 eggs 2 tbsp cider brandy Beat the butter until very soft. Still mixing, add the sugar and ground almonds and mix some more. Now mix in the flour, then the eggs, and finally the alcohol. Transfer to a small bowl and put in the fridge for 15 minutes. TO MAKE THE TART: 1 batch sweet pastry 50ml rum 2ltr Somerset cider 50ml Somerset cider brandy 6 heaped tbsp brown sugar 6 eating apples Butter for greasing the tins 1 quantity almond cream made with cider brandy Pour the alcohol into a pan, add the sugar and warm up on the hob – the alcohol shouldn’t even bubble.

Marlborough Tavern (9 Oct), a cheesemaking masterclass with Tom Calver from Westcombe Dairy (26 Oct) and the wonderful Jenny Chandler’s look at cooking with local produce (18 October). With local in mind, I thought that in this issue I would share with you a beautiful autumnal recipe using some of this great local produce. This recipe is for tarte Normande – though perhaps on this occasion we should re-name it tart Somerset. Delicious local apples soaked in cider and cider brandy.

Add the apples, unpeeled and quartered, and let them sit in the punch over the lowest heat for several hours. Turn off the heat, put a lid on and leave the apples to steep overnight so that they soften and soak up the flavours. Lightly grease 8 10cm loose-bottomed tart tins (2cm deep). Skim a fine film of flour over your work surface, roll the pastry 2-3mm thick and use to line the tins. Place in the fridge to rest for at least 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180ºC /Gas 4. Fill the pastry cases with the almond cream. Lift the apples from the punch, halve and core them, and slice thinly. Arrange the slices in a circular fashion on top. Bake on trays for 20-25 minutes, until the almond cream is golden brown. Remove from the oven, and after 15 minutes, lift out and cool on a rack to room temperature before eating. Photo by Jean Cazals from Pastry by Richard Bertinet (Ebury)

The Bertinet Kitchen, 12 St Andrews Terrace, Bath BA1 2QR Call: 01225 445531 Email: info@thebertinetkitchen.com Visit: www.thebertinetkitchen.com


> flavour mitch tonks

/LYL»Z [OL JH JO With sustainable fishing top of the agenda, flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol and a restaurant in Plymouth. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

© Mitch Tonks. RockFish Grill & Seafood Market Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill

-VVK MVY [OL ZVSL Sole: Dover, lemon, slip, megrim, witch, sand, Torbay, there are plenty of them and believe it or not our fisheries around the South Coast land some of the finest in the world. At the auctions in my home town of Brixham, buyers crowd the boxes of Dover soles which are in such demand all over Europe that the price regularly reaches over £20 per kilo. Further down the coast at Newlyn the buyers do the same for the Megrim sole, a fish that 15 years ago, when I first got into the fish game, would have a job to fetch £1 a kilo but now follows the fortune of the Dover sole, and the effect has been to increase their price and this equally magnificent fish now reaches over £10 per kilo on the market. It’s a fish that never seems to have gone out of fashion in the UK and appears regularly on restaurant menus. So what can you expect from a Dover sole? The flesh is wonderfully firm and slips easily from the bone and the favour is very delicate; it’s a universal fish and one that everyone enjoys – hence its place at the top

of the sole tree. But what about the other soles? For my money the next in line is the sand sole; a pretty rare fish that we only see for a few months of the year but so closely related to the Dover that an untrained eye would have a job to tell. If you ever visit South Devon you may find it described on menus as Torbay sole, and a good choice it is with white, juicy flesh that is hard to beat. Lemon sole is so called because it has a slightly yellow skin – the name doesn’t relate at all to flavour. The flakes are bigger and softer on the lemon sole and the flavour even more delicate; it is certainly a fish that likes to be fried or roasted on the bone and as the skin is so thin it is best left on to crisp up in the pan or the oven. In any case, after the Dover and sand sole the quality is pretty close for the other types of sole, so enjoy them and, most of all, when in comes to cooking them – keep it simple.

3LTVU ZVSL IHRLK ^P[O I\[[LY SLTVU HUK WHYZSL` INGREDIENTS 1 lemon sole weighing about 600g 100 g butter Handful of parsley, chopped 1/2 lemon for squeezing

METHOD Pre-heat your oven to 200˚C.

SERVES 2

Take an oval roasting dish, rub the bottom with softened butter, lay the fish on top and then spread butter over the top of the fish. Place the pan in the oven and bake for 6-7 minutes. Pull the fish out of the oven, tilt the dish and, with a spoon, baste the back of the fish with the melted butter. Replace and cook for a further 2-3 minutes, then repeat the basting process. The fish will be cooked after about 15 minutes and the fins will be crisp and golden. On removal from the oven and just before serving, add some parsley and the lemon juice to the buttery juices and serve. 19


> flavour drops by

ÅH]V\Y

drops by...

*662 Emily Knight chats to Bristol and Wells franchise owner Brett Haigh For most lovers of good food, the words ‘ready meal’ will incite shudders, conjuring up images of TV dinners and poor quality, additive-filled, massproduced supermarket offerings. COOK, however, is a brand that produces ready meals with a difference, with an ethos and values that will appeal to any foodie. COOK is a brand that was founded over 15 years ago by friends Edward Perry and Dale Penfold, who were disillusioned with the ready meals offered by supermarkets. Their whole ethos was – and still is – to cook good food with the same ingredients that you would use at home, with no preservatives and no additives; essentially creating ready meals that don’t taste like ready meals. Although at its core a family-run business, COOK began to franchise their shops around five or six years ago, allowing a wider range of customers across the country to enjoy their food. They now have over 60 shops all over the country, and offer home delivery – both from the family-run shops and some of the local franchises. Brett Haigh owns two of COOK’s franchised shops in the South West: on Broad Street in Wells and on Whiteladies Road in Bristol. He opened the Wells shop in 2010, after he returned from running a hotel in the Serengeti National Park and didn’t know what to do next. “I didn’t want to go back into the hotel industry,” says Brett. “I actually found out about COOK through my brother. He had enjoyed some of their range at a friend’s house and raved about it, so I googled COOK and liked what I saw. I ordered some food and applied for a franchise at the same time.” In June this year, Brett also took on the franchise on

20

the shop on Bristol’s Whiteladies Road. “We’re complete advocates of the COOK brand,” says Brett. “We eat meals from the shops two or three times a week: we have a four-year-old son, so after a long day at work, we just want to spend time as a family. Our son’s christening buffet and canapés were from the COOK range, and our Christmas meals are all done from the shop. It really has become part of our lives.” With every element of every batch of every dish both prepared and made by hand, it’s easy to see the difference between COOK and supermarket ready meals. Whole joints of meat are trimmed in house, vegetables are chopped by hand, and pastry is all handmade. “That’s why COOK is so different,” says Brett. “That level of attention to detail throughout the whole process; the best quality ingredients; the fact that we only cook in small batches by hand… it’s a company with an amazing ethos and values that I’m truly proud to be a part of.”

COOK Clifton Unit 3 St John’s Court Whiteladies Road Clifton Bristol BS8 2QY Call: 0117 317 9748 Email: clifton@cookfood.net COOK Wells 13 Broad Street Wells BA5 2DJ Call: 01749 677726 Email: wells@cookfood.net www.cookfood.net


Déjeuner

one?

Gourmet Cruise to St Malo 2 night cruise, dinner and lunch from just £95pp Treat yourself with this 2 night mini-cruise from Portsmouth where you’ll enjoy a sumptuous 4 course meal on board, lunch at a top restaurant in St Malo and breakfast prior to arriving back into Portsmouth. In between you can stroll around the beautiful walled town of St Malo. Depart from Portsmouth any Monday until 28 October inclusive.

Your cruise includes: ✓ Overnight cruise from Portsmouth to St Malo with en suite cabin ✓ 4 course buffet dinner on outward sailing ✓ Lunch at your chosen restaurant ✓ Return overnight cruise from St Malo plus continental breakfast before arriving in Portsmouth

Find out more at brittanyferries.com/gourmet95 or call 0871 244 0353 Calls cost 10p per minute plus network extras. Price shown is per person based on 2 sharing standard 2 berth cabin and travelling without car. New bookings only, subject to availability. Conditions and exclusions apply - see website for full details.


> flavour dining cruises

Bateaux London Stunning river views, exciting menus from fresh ingredients and live, unfolding entertainment combine to make Bateaux London the leading Thames Dining Cruise Experience. Bateaux London is the capital’s leading provider of restaurant dining cruises on the river Thames, and their repertoire of cruises has something for everyone and every occasion. Guests can choose from a scheduled Lunch, Sunday Lunch Jazz, Afternoon Tea or Dinner cruise, dine in a private room or exclusively charter a vessel. Children are welcomed 22

on board for the lunch and afternoon tea cruises, but must be over the age of 12 years to join a dinner cruise. Specialising in Classic British cuisine, guests on board a Bateaux cruise experience the energy and enthusiasm of the team, from the taste and presentation of the food to the professional and friendly service. Menus are changed seasonally with a focus on fresh and sustainable produce which is sourced from suppliers who place emphasis on quality and uniqueness. These tasty ingredients along with the chefs’

precise attention to detail, ensures the best possible dining experience. The finest package includes all the elements to make your dinner cruise an unforgettable experience, with champagne on arrival, a window table affording spectacular views, fivecourse menu with wines from an elite selection and an after-dinner liqueur. A musical blend of jazz is performed during the cruise by the resident band, which comprises of some of London’s finest musicians. The


> flavour dining cruises

and later dancing, under the stars. In addition to Bateaux London’s already extensive portfolio of experiences, guests can be at the centre of London’s exciting celebrations with a New Year’s Eve 2013 cruise. Enjoying the last hours of the year with a spectacular evening cruise including freshly prepared food, great wine and live entertainment, everyone is invited to welcome in the new year at midnight with a celebratory glass of champagne from one of the best vantage points on the river, right underneath the EDF Energy London Eye! Couples can also dine on board on one of the most romantic nights of the year and celebrate Valentine’s Day with an indulgent menu and stunning views, allowing them to fall in love all over again. New for this year, decorated chef proprietor Simon Hulstone of Michelinstar restaurant The Elephant in Torquay, has partnered with Bateaux London for two unique culinary evenings on board the Harmony this October.

highlight of a Thames river dinner cruise is the after-dinner dancing with a repertoire spanning five decades.

experience, from a reclining glass roof to an all-glass structure and the largest observation deck on the Thames.

Bateaux London’s cruises are a wonderful backdrop to any celebration with family, friends and colleagues and offer the chance to get dressed up – something quite rare these days!

Unique to the Thames, the Scandinaviandesigned Harmony features flexible layout for dining and private dining spaces, ideal for an intimate event in a unique setting as each area benefits from large, picture frame windows affording spectacular views. A truly enchanting experience by day or by night, this is a fantastic way to enjoy London as you glide past the city’s famous landmarks. The Symphony’s all-glass structure enables guests to enjoy the magnificent views of London without interruption. Her wide expanse of glass, dark wooden flooring and sleek furniture bestow a bright and spacious atmosphere, complemented by extensive exterior viewing platforms. The traditional Naticia, with her mirrored and wooden interior maintains classic charm, and a partial glass roof which retracts, offers guests the unique experience of dining,

With daily cruise departures from Embankment Pier, which has easy access from London Waterloo, Charing Cross main line and Embankment underground stations, guests are taken on a journey of the Thames, past sights both old and new, such as the Houses of Parliament, St Paul’s Cathedral, The Tower of London and The EDF Energy London Eye. Complementing the spectacular views onboard the lunch cruise is GPS-led commentary, offering insights into London’s liquid history. The fleet includes three vessels, each offering a different dimension to your

For the first time ever, guests can enjoy a menu of Michelin-star quality whilst cruising past some of London’s most famous landmarks and enjoying spectacular views of the river by night. Simon has created a sumptuous menu inspired by his passion for local and sustainable produce to create memorable flavours. Sampling tasty British ingredients such as Brixham crab and Exmoor venison, Simon works green apple mustard, yuzu oil and wild garlic capers in to the dishes to create a truly exquisite taste sensation. A refreshing lemon verbena panna cotta with tonka bean meringue complements the final indulgent course of Kikkoman soy and apple tart tatin. All of Bateaux London’s cruises are available to purchase as gift vouchers and are suitable for all ages. For more information on the cruises and different packages please visit www.bateauxlondon.com or call or email on 0207 695 1800, reservations@bateauxlondon.com 23



FATof the

LAND

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25


> flavour fat of the land

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> flavour fat of the land

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Allington Farm Shop

The Ploughman’s Farm Shop

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27


> flavour fat of the land

Wild Beef West Country Farm Shop <PQ[ NM[\Q^M [MI[WV \PM ?QTL *MMN ?M[\ +W]V\Za .IZU ;PWX Q[ JZQUUQVO _Q\P M`KMX\QWVIT IZ\Q[IV XZWL]KM NZWU \PM ;W]\P ?M[\ WN -VOTIVL

Tortworth Estate Shop <WZ\_WZ\P -[\I\M ;PWX Q[ I ZMIT »NWWLQM[¼ TIZLMZ WN OZMI\ TWKIT IVL [XMKQITQ\a NWWL[ \]KSML I_Ia QV \PM JMI]\QN]T PIUTM\ WN <WZ\_WZ\P IVL Z]V Ja ;QUWV *ITT IVL NIUQTa 7NNMZQVO I ^I[\ [MTMK\QWV WN NZM[PTa XZMXIZML UMI\[ IVL OIUM U]KP WN _PQKP Q[ PWUM XZWL]KML WZ TWKITTa KI]OP\ \PMZM Q[ [WUM\PQVO NWZ M^MZa WKKI[QWV ?M KWUXTMUMV\ \PQ[ _Q\P XTMV\a WN ZMOQWVIT [MI[WVIT NZ]Q\ IVL ^MOM\IJTM[ IVL []XXWZ\ W^MZ TWKIT []XXTQMZ[ _PW XZWL]KM I TIZOM IVL ^IZQML ZIVOM WN XZWL]K\[ QVKT]LQVO JISMZa LIQZa XZM[MZ^M[ IVL KWV[MZ^M[ +WUM IVL MVRWa I \I[\MZ WN \PM KPMM[M[ _M [\WKS WV W]Z LMTQ KW]V\MZ WZ MVRWa I ZMTI`QVO NZM[PTa JZM_ML KWNNMM IVL PWUMUILM KISM QV W]Z VM_ ZM[\I]ZIV\ _PQKP PI[ TW^MTa ^QM_[ WN \PM +W\[_WTL M[KIZXUMV\ 2WQV ][ WV I [\MIS VQOP\ IVL QVL]TOM QV \PM NI\ WN \PM TIVL _Q\P W]Z NIUW][ PWUM ZMIZML [\MIS[ IVL UW\PMZ¼[ W_V LM[[MZ\[

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.WTTW_ ][ WV \_Q\\MZ (\WZ\_WZ\P WZ Ã…VL ][ WV .IKMJWWS

28

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> ямВavour fat of the land

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C.W. Butchery

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> flavour fat of the land

Great British Meat Co.

Goodman’s Geese

.ZWU NIZU \W NWZS NWZ aMIZ[

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Otter Vale Products 7\\MZ >ITM 8ZWL]K\[ IZM I [UITT ,M^WV JI[ML NIUQTa J][QVM[[ _PW UIV]NIK\]ZM IVL LQ[\ZQJ]\M \PMQZ W_V ]VQY]M ZIVOM WN PIVL UILM KP]\VMa[ [I^W]Za RMTTQM[ IVL W\PMZ \ZILQ\QWVIT NWWL IKKWUXIVQUMV\[ NZWU \PMQZ SQ\KPMV[ QV *]LTMQOP ;IT\MZ\WV )XXTM +P]\VMa _Q\P ?M[\ +W]V\Za +QLMZ ) _QVVMZ WN I OWTL [\IZ I\ \PQ[ aMIZ¼[ /ZMI\ <I[\M )_IZL[ \PQ[ KP]\VMa UISM[ I []XMZJ IKKWUXIVQUMV\ \W XWZS

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___ W\\MZ^ITMXZWL]K\[ KW ]S 30

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Farleigh Road Farm Shop & Café

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Rother Valley Organics

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The culinary home of The Porter’s resident double Michelin-starred chef Rob Clayton. Drop by for breakfast, stay for lunch or book for dinner. Rob will be serving modern British food in the casual kitchen surrounds of Bath’s newest food haven.

NOW OPEN

CLAYTON’S KITCHEN AT THE PORTER 15A George St, Bath BA1 2EN T +44 (0)1225 585 100 F +44 (0)1225 585 200 info@theporter.co.uk www.theporter.co.uk @PorterBath


It’s Beginning To Look A Lot Like

With only a few months until Christmas Day, we at flavour are starting to think about our festive food and drink plans. We’ve selected some of our favourite companies in the South West from whom to buy your Christmas dinner ingredients – along with providing you with some festive menus for Christmas party planning.

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> flavour christmas food

Dike & Son Superstore and Cafe A Truly Local Independent Store If you are passionate about local produce look no further than Dike & Son, a multi award-winning deli and supermarket in North Dorset that ‘welcomes more than 100 local growers, bakers and makers’ on to its shelves. Family run (by the same family since 1851), the shop in Stalbridge has grown over the years to become the largest independent supermarket in the West Country. It now stocks a vast array of local cheeses, pies, cured meats, chutneys, jams and preserves, biscuits, cakes and chocolates as well as dozens of local ciders, ales and other more unusual tipples. Great for gifts for foodies (they also do hampers) and all your Christmas food shopping, the store also has a friendly café serving farmhouse breakfasts, home-cooked lunches and Dorset cream teas, so you can make a day of it.

Dike & Son Superstore Deli and Café, Ring Street, Stalbridge, Dorset DT10 2NB Call: 01963 362204 Visit: www.welovedorsetfood.co.uk or www.facebook.com/dikeandson

Edington Farm Shop

Christmas at Reg The Veg

We have an extensive range of fine locally sourced products including local meat, cheese, bread, chutneys and local crafts, and even our very own ales from our onsite microbrewery, alongside our finest Priory Farm fruit, veg and flowers. We aim to create local convenience at its best alongside something special for the weekend.

Organic potatoes, sprout stalks, leeks, bunched carrots, parsnips and broccoli, delivered fresh from our local farmers, harvested daily and so fresh the early morning dew glistens on our sprout tops.

Christmas Offer Over the festive season we will be creating a Christmas vegetable box containing a seasonal range of our fantastic Priory Farm vegetables, including the Christmas classics: a great grab-and-go for a busy time of year. Beautiful locally grown vegetables will make Christmas dinner that little more special. Edington Farm Shop Westbury Road, Edington, Wiltshire BA13 4PG Call: 01380 830 940 Visit: www.edingtonfarmshop.com

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Madjool dates, fresh figs, satsumas, cranberries and chestnuts for roasting on an open fire. Christmas trees, mistletoe, holly wreaths and decorations for your home. Sage, thyme, rosemary; all the herbs you need for the flavour of Christmas!

Reg the Veg 6 Boyces Avenue, Clifton Bristol BS8 4AA Call: 0117 970 6777 Visit: www.regtheveg.co.uk


> flavour christmas food ood

Langsfords Preserves Langsfords Preserves produce handmade and homemade quality jams and preserves with no artificial additives, made in small batches using traditional methods. Langsfords recipes use locally sourced and seasonal produce where possible, and they offer a range of hampers and gift packs, ideal for Christmas. The range includes jams, jellies, chutneys, pickles, condiments, vinegars and more. The Jumbleberry Jam has a Taste of the West Gold Award, and the Gooseberry and Star Anise Vinegar has a Silver Award. Jumbleberry Jam: A jumble of local strawberries, raspberries and blackcurrants mixed together to create a beautifully fruity jam. Gooseberry and Star Anise Vinegar: Cider vinegar infused with gooseberries and star anise and sweetened to create a lovely salad dressing or to add a splash of flavour to sauces and marinades.

You will find Langsfords at regular farmers’ markets, including: Devizes (first Saturday of the month) Frome Supermarket (first Sunday of the month) Wells (second Wednesday of the month) Corsham (third Saturday of the month) Bradford on Avon (last Sunday of the month) Glastonbury (fourth Saturday of the month) Other events in 2013 include the Somerset Food & Drink Festival and the Winter Fayre, Mells 24th Nov: see the website or Facebook page for details. Langsfords Preserves Pendragon House, Claverton, Bath BA2 7BL Call: 07738 535960 Visit: www.langsfords-preserves.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/ langsfordspreserves Twitter: @LPreserves

Rich’s Fresh Produce

Locally grown vegetables delivered to your home. Gerald Rich has been market gardening in Bath for over 40 years, and with the help of his son Luke he now runs a thriving veg box delivery service. As well as homegrown vegetables and salads, they source English fruit when it’s in season. You can pick one of their lovely veg boxes or choose your produce to suit your taste. Free delivery in Bath and Box. Visit: www.bathboxes.co.uk

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> flavour christmas food

The Well Hung Meat Company The Well Hung Meat Company deliver all over the UK twice a week, every Thursday and Friday, and already deliver to over 100 Bristol postcodes every week. This Christmas they are offering a fantastic selection of festive meat for your entertaining and family meals. They will have organic Pekin duck, rare-breed Heritage turkey and awardwinning Emden goose in addition to their multi award-winning beef, lamb, pork and chicken. If you have not yet tasted their delicious, organic, grass-fed, artisan meat, then here is a great opportunity to give them a try. They have come up with a ‘Flavour of Well Hung Meat’ box that gives you an example of their different award-winning meats at an affordable price. For just £25 you can try their Taste of

the West Silver Award chicken, Taste of the West Gold Award beef, lamb and pork and compare it to the meat you are already buying. The box contains one pack of each of the following: Three-week, dry aged organic Aberdeen Angus mince 400g Three-week, dry aged organic Aberdeen Angus Feather steak 300g One-week, dry aged organic Duroc cross pork belly strips 500g One-week, dry aged organic Poll Dorset lamb dice 400g Two-day, dry aged Devonshire Red chicken thighs 400g

Try this ‘Flavour of Well Hung Meat’ box for just £25 with FREE delivery! Visit: wellhungmeat.com/flavour to find out more.

Fefant Rosted (Roasted Pheasant) An alternative Christmas dish from The Star & Dove Ingredients: 1 plump pheasant 50g of melted dripping or lard Muslin cloth

Method: Rub the bird all over with coarse sea salt and leave for 24 hours in a fridge. Rinse off the excess salt and soak in several changes of water for 4 to 6 hours. Pat the skin dry and season with coarse salt and pepper, Preheat the oven to 180˚C/Gas mark 4. Take a piece of muslin large enough to cover the bird and soak in melted dripping or lard. Lay over the pheasant and place in a roasting tray upon a trivet of roughly chopped vegetables (in order to keep it slightly elevated) and roast between 35 and 45 minutes depending on size. 36

To check the bird, insert a skewer into the thickest part of the thigh; the juices should run clear. Leave to rest somewhere warm for at least 20 minutes and baste several times throughout. Be vigilant as a few minutes too far can transform this beautiful quintessential British bird into the rather dull and pedestrian. ORIGINAL RECIPE: (Taken from the Harleian Manuscript) Lete a ffesaunte blode in the mouthe as a crane, And lete him blede to dethe; pull him dry, kutte awey his hede and the necke by the body, and the legges by the kne, and putte the kneys in at the vente, and roste him. The Star & Dove 75-78 St Luke’s Road Totterdown Bristol BS3 4RY Call: 0117 933 2892 Visit: www.staranddove.co.uk


> flavour christmas menu

The Montague Inn Hidden away amongst the Somerset country lanes is the Montague Inn; a traditional 18th-century local where everyone receives a warm welcome. The cosy bar guarantees a warm and friendly atmosphere for that quiet chat or the simple enjoyment of the local ales and ciders. The tastefully furnished restaurant leaves you breathless with its space and huge picture windows opening onto the terrace and garden with wide-reaching rural views. Noted and awarded for local sourcing of food and drink, whether it be a homemade pie or an à la carte dining extravaganza, owners Sean and Suzy O’Callaghan with Head Chef Matt Dean deliver a seasonal menu from the very best of the South West.

Christmas Party Menu £22.50 per head Starters Potted Wild Mushroom Fricassee with a Keen’s Cheddar and Herb Crumb Free Range Duck Liver Parfait, Crisp Bread and Spiced Onion Jam Home Made Hot and Sour Crab Rolls, Shredded Iceberg Lettuce and Lime Dressing Local Wild Game Terrine, Mulled Pear Chutney and Crusty Bread Main Courses Ballotine of our own Turkeys with a Thyme and Cranberry Stuffing. Served with all the trimmings Individual Lamb and Rosemary Suet Pudding. Sautéed Brussel Sprouts, Potatoes and Chestnuts Salmon, Spinach and Cream Cheese Plait. Creamed Saffron Potatoes and Parsley Sauce Local Winter Vegetable Cobbler. Mini Roast Potatoes Desserts Our Own Christmas Pudding with Brandy Sauce Three Tier Chocolate Mousse, Cointreau Sauce and Orange Biscuit Steamed Treacle and Ginger Pudding, Lemon Infused Custard Cheese Plate of Local Cheeses As our dishes are freshly prepared we are able within reason to cater for most food intolerances, however, we cannot guarantee that our food is totally nut free. Please bring any dietary requirements or allergies to the attention of our staff who will be happy to discuss the menu with you. We are not aware that any of our ingredients contain GM foods. All prices are inclusive of 20% VAT. The Montague Inn Shepton Montague, Near Wincanton BA9 8JW Call: 01749 813213 Visit: www.themontagueinn.co.uk

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> flavour christmas menu

The Catherine Wheel, Marshfield The Catherine Wheel is highly regarded for its home-cooked food and real ales served in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. The team use local produce when available, and all of their food is prepared by fully trained chefs. Enjoy a Christmas meal at The Catherine Wheel, available from November 29 to December 30 (excl. 25 & 26 Dec). January 2014 bookings are also available on request.

Starters Brussels sprout and chestnut soup with sage and garlic croutons (v) Pheasant and duck pâté, apple and grape chutney, with warm toast Smoked salmon parcel filled with prawns and cream cheese, served with a lemon and dill dressing Toasted bruschetta topped with a feta and olive salad Breaded mushrooms filled with brie, served with orange and apricot jelly Main Courses Turkey breast with a cranberry and thyme stuffing Game stew, marinated in red wine, slow cooked with shallots and herb dumplings Pot-roasted loin of pork stuffed with apricots and thyme served with crispy crackling and apple sauce Festive lentil and nut roast (v) Sea bass fillet with a caper and rocket salad, served with hollandaise Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding

Puddings Traditional Christmas pudding with brandy sauce Chocolate bread and butter pudding with double cream Lemon posset and mixed berry coulis with shortbread biscuits Bakewell tart with vanilla ice cream West Country cheeses with chutney and savoury biscuits Marshfield Farm ice cream selection £20.00 for three courses, £16.00 for two courses pre-booked – crackers included!

The Catherine Wheel The High Street Marshfield SN14 8LR Call: 01225 892220 Email: roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk

The Natterjack Inn The Natterjack Inn is a truly traditional pub, offering a wide choice of locally sourced, home-cooked food, real ales and fine wines. Its warm and friendly atmosphere lends itself to all occasions – including your Christmas meal. The Natterjack Inn’s Christmas menu was created by their team of chefs to help you enjoy their culinary delights over the festive period in 2013. Running from December 1 to 24, you will be able to enjoy a three-course menu for £23, or a two-course lunchtime menu for £18. Booking and preordering are required, along with a £5 deposit per head.

Starters Roast Tomato Soup with Melting Mozzarella Salt Cod Brandade with Toast Pork and Cognac Pate with Apple and Cider Chutney Beetroot, Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Tart Roasted Fig and Gorgonzola Salad with Balsamic Dressing Main Courses Traditional Roast Turkey with all the Trimmings Pan Fried Sea Trout with Horseradish Cream and Crushed New Potatoes Braised Shin of Beef with Champ Mash, Cabbage with Bacon and Stout Gravy Squash, Feta and Pine Nut Filo Pie with Roast Potatoes and Redcurrant Jus Duck Leg Cassoulet with Warm Crusty Bread Puddings Figgy Pudding with Custard English Raspberry Trifle

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Cranberry and Clementine Crumble with Cointreau Ice Cream Warm Chocolate Fudge Cake with Clotted Cream Ice Cream Selection of Local Cheeses £2 Supplement Coffee and Petit Fours The Natterjack Inn Nr Evercreech Junction Evercreech Somerset BA4 6NA Call: 01749 860253 Visit: www.thenatterjackinn.co.uk


> flavour christmas menu

The Old Station Inn & Carriage Restaurant Nestled equidistant between Bath, Bristol and Wells lays The Old Station Inn and Carriage Restaurant. With obvious links to the railways it also features an old Pullman carriage as its restaurant, which has been lovingly restored to all its former glory. This was modelled on the iconic Royal Scotsman’s dining car and is both elegant and welcoming.

Starters Prawn, crab and smoked salmon timbale with mini

The Old Station is now taking Christmas bookings, with the following menu on offer…

Main Courses Stuffed breast of Norfolk black turkey filled with

greens and Marie Rose sauce

Orange and grapefruit segments with champagne sorbet (v) Caesar salad with shaved Parmesan cheese and ciabatta croutons (v) Roasted butternut squash soup with chestnuts and pancetta bacon Wild mushroom risotto with thyme and roasted Parmesan (v) Goat’s cheese tart with tomato balsamic chutney (v)

ham and chestnut stuffing, cranberry demi-glaze, roast potatoes, winter greens and roasted root vegetables Vegetarian Christmas meal served with a homemade veggie loaf instead of the meat Fresh Cornish monkfish wrapped in Parma ham, lemon, garlic and parsley mashed potatoes, fresh vegetables Confit of duck leg, braised red cabbage, horseradish crushed potatoes Sautéed jumbo prawns and scallops skewered with spicy chorizo sausage, dressed salad and fat chips 10oz rump steak, wild mushroom sauté, fat chips, rocket and onion tangles

Puddings Christmas pudding with brandy butter Ice cream sundae with chocolate brownie, chocolate sauce and whipped cream

Lemon tart with fresh berries Caramel crème brulee White, milk and dark chocolate mousse Extras Cheese board £4.50 per person Sorbet between starter and main course £2.50 per person

Coffee or tea £1.50 per person Cappuccino, latte, hot chocolate £1.75 per person

£24.95 Gratuity not included Price includes Christmas crackers, mince pies and after-dinner chocolates

The Old Station Inn & Carriage Restaurant Wells Road Hallatrow Somerset BS39 6EN Call: 01761 452228 Visit: www.theoldstationandcarriage.co.uk

The Fox at Broughton Gifford Nestling in the heart of this popular and picturesque village, The Fox at Broughton Gifford is an important addition to the Wiltshire dining scene. The Fox, in conjunction with Broughton Gifford’s very own Church Farm Meats, ensures the highest quality and most locally sourced meat as is possible. Celebrate your Christmas party at The Fox at Broughton Gifford with the following menu…

Starters Seared king scallops, artichoke and truffle purée, bacon crisp, sauce vierge.* Pigeon breast, caramelised pistachios, potato rosti, celeriac and apple. Selection of home-cured salami, toasted sourdough and pickles. Chicken liver and foie gras parfait, Tokaji jelly.* Spiced parsnip soup, caramelised parsnip, thyme croutons. v

Beetroot, poached pear, chicory and goat’s cheese salad. v Main Courses Roasted crown of turkey, with all the trimmings. Seared local venison, fondant potato, pickled beetroot, candied walnuts, cavolo nero. Roasted partridge, parsnip purée, with cabbage, bacon and chestnut parcels, game chips. Fish of the day, with a broth of leek, spinach, wild mushrooms and clams. Pan fried gnocchi, chestnuts, wild mushrooms and blue cheese. 8oz fillet steak, hand-cut chips, sautéed winter vegetables, Béarnaise sauce.* Desserts Christmas pudding with brandy cream and stem ginger ice cream. Chocolate and chestnut tart, salted caramel, toffee nuts, vanilla ice cream. ‘Toffee apple’ crème brûlée with cinnamon biscuits.

Selection of cheeses, with homemade chutney and biscuits. Selection of ice creams and sorbets. Coffee and petit fours. Two courses for £25, three courses for £30 Dishes marked * subject to a £2 supplement

The Fox at Broughton Gifford Broughton Gifford Melksham, SN12 8PN Call: 01225 782949 www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk

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> flavour the porter

*SH`[VU»Z 2P[JOLU

DW 7KH 3RUWHU Emily Knight enjoys a meal at one of Bath’s latest hotspots Say the words ‘double Michelin-starred chef’ to most people, and they’ll assume two things of a restaurant: that it’s pretentious, and that it’s overly expensive. A meal at one of Bath’s newest restaurants, Clayton’s Kitchen at The Porter, revealed that this isn’t always the case. Firstly, Rob Clayton – the double Michelin-starred chef in question – is a genuinely nice guy, full of enthusiasm and cooking unpretentious dishes which diners enjoy in a beautifully relaxed environment. Secondly, a meal at Clayton’s Kitchen really does offer an affordable yet highly enjoyable night out. Clayton’s Kitchen can be found on the ground floor of The Porter, an imposing four-storey building on Bath’s George Street that offers a different experience on every floor. Head down to the basement for more of a bar/club feel, or enjoy a hot drink during the day or a boozy alternative in the evening in the first floor bar and lounge. The second floor library and study offer two rooms that can be hired out for anything from private dining to office space, corporate events and more. The restaurant itself offers a fantastic environment in which to eat, split into two separate dining areas looking out onto the hustle and bustle of George Street. With an exposed painted brick wall, dimmed lighting, alternating black and white dining chairs, a mixture of both wooden and metal tables with no cloths and a beautiful fireplace, Clayton’s Kitchen is the epitome of relaxed dining

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> flavour the porter

– although maybe a little too warm for our liking on the evening of our visit. Diners are able to choose from a selection of mains from two menus – the restaurant menu and the kitchen classics – offering a choice of restaurant- or brasserie-style dishes at a range of prices, starting at £11 and with the top end at £24. A list of seven starters includes two vegetarian options, and the descriptions of the puddings make choosing very difficult… The roasted scallops which formed my starter were beautifully cooked and seasoned, and served with a creamy butternut squash purée and crispy half moons of chorizo: a classic combination and wonderful autumnal flavours, drizzled to finish with chorizo oil and balsamic. My partner’s Brixham crab was again perfectly seasoned, with a suitably al dente fine green pasta, a

rich and creamy crab sauce and lemon oil that finished the dish perfectly. This was followed by an amazingly tender fillet steak for my main, with duck fat chips that I’m reminiscing over even a few days later. Finished with a sweet shallot and thyme purée, it was a dish that more than justified its £24 price tag. My partner wasn’t asked how he wanted his cannon of lamb cooked, but medium rare was just fine by him and the stack of crushed potatoes and slivers of chargrilled courgettes on which it was carefully placed were the perfect complement to the meat. After two such great courses, it would have been rude to pass on dessert, especially with such a tempting menu in front of us. Between us we demolished a light and sweet hazelnut parfait, flecked with crunchy praline and paired with a fantastic salted caramel sauce and

apple sorbet that was almost puréelike in its consistency. We also highly recommend the salted caramel chocolate mousse, with a stickier-than-normal consistency and intriguingly plated with slices of poached citrus pear, popcorn and a fantastic blood orange sorbet. It’s always good to see a new restaurant so busy, and on the Saturday night of our visit it wasn’t just the restaurant but the whole building that was packed to the rafters. With each floor appealing to a different audience, it is already clear that The Porter is going to be a huge success story for Bath. Clayton’s Kitchen at The Porter 15a George Street Bath BA1 2EN Call: 01225 585100 Visit: www.theporter.co.uk 41


> flavour wine school

THE TOAST OF TUSCANY Introducing The ‘Philip’, The New Jewel in Castello Di Fonterutoli’s Crown

Angela Mount dines out and explores the range of awardwinning Tuscan wines from the Mazzei family estates

I

t’s so far a rather well kept secret, but Bath’s Great Western Wine shop has snatched up the only UK stock of Castello di Fonterutoli’s new and iconic wine, the ‘Philip’, which was launched this summer at award-winning restaurant, the Olive Tree at the Queensberry Hotel.

Angela Mount is a wine expert, writer and presenter. Probably best known for having her taste buds insured for £10m by her former employers Somerfield, she is passionate about helping wine drinkers discover new and exciting wines. She also writes and presents events about wine and food matching, judges at all the major UK wine competitions and chairs the judging panels for the Bristol and also the Bath Good Food Awards.

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‘Philip’ Mazzei 2008, is a unique wine from one of Tuscany’s oldest and most highly acclaimed wineries, created to honour one of the family’s most famous ancestors, and celebrate his close ties with the United States, and past presidents. With only 2,500 bottles produced, and only a tiny percentage of those allocated to the UK, Great Western Wine has snapped up the lot, and is the only stockist in the UK. This flagship wine was launched on 4 July, American Independence Day, with the official worldwide launch being held at the Jefferson Foundation, in Virginia, USA. The stylish decor of the Olive Tree restaurant was the perfect setting for an evening to celebrate the launch, make friends with a full range of Mazzei

wines, and also enjoy some perfectly picked dishes from the Olive Tree’s menu, which complemented the delights of the seven Mazzei wines that were shown. Hosted by Antonia Caserta, of Marchesi Mazzei, and Great Western Wine’s Edward Mercer, it was a feast of sublime wine and food to be relished. Guests were greeted with canapés and a glass of Belguardo Vermentino 2011, a crisply fresh, white peach and ripe apple-scented white from the family’s Maremma estate, close to the coast. Lively, yet ripe, with full on flavours and a delightful seam of zesty crispness on the finish (GWW £13.75). With owner Laurence Beere at the helm in the kitchen, the beautiful array of starters appeared, vibrant with colour and texture – delicate little morsels of roast quail, served with a bright pea purée, broad beans, a quivering quail’s egg and potato crisp – perfectly matched to the introductory red of the evening, Tenuta di Belguardo Bronzone, Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2009, a divine, soft, black cherry-infused red, with a


> flavour wine school

savoury, smokey edge and bold, wild herb, tobacco and black fruit flavours tripping across the palate (GWW £20). The main course was a sumptuous treat and a worthy partner to showcase three of the classic Chiantis from this age-old estate – loin and shoulder of lamb, cooked to perfection, with toasted quinoa, parsley purée and artichoke. The natural sweetness of the glistening, tender lamb, combined with the savoury, edgy flavours of parsley and artichoke, all enhanced by the toasty smokiness of the crunchy quinoa, made for a perfect partnership with wines which are by nature inherently complex, with fresh, herbaceous, yet sweet, ripe fruit flavours. First up, Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2011 is a bright, fresh and savoury red; absolutely textbook Chianti Classico with its morello cherry aromas and vibrant, herbaceous edge and texture (GWW £16.75). Ser Lapo, Chianti Classico Riserva 2009, and a long-time personal favourite, was gloriously rich, in its ripe plum, fig and mocha intensity – as elegant, and stylish as ever (GWW £17.75). The third of the trio was the structured, haughty aristocrat Castello Fonterutoli,

Chianti Classico 2008 – a wine produced only from the very best parcels on the estate. Rich, intense and brooding, it has a power and intensity which is beguiling, yet maintains poise and elegance through the edgy savouriness, which complements the chewy, black fruit and truffle character of the wine (GWW £36.00). Despite the stellar line-up of wines so far, this was only the pre-cursor to the main event, the launch of ‘Philip’. To herald the arrival, guests were treated to a truly unique wine from the Mazzei stable, the iconic Siepi Rosso di Toscana 2007 – made from a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, and only produced from old vines on a single estate in the very best of years. It is a uniquely complex wine, full of dense, inky yet velvety black fruit, rich mocha, prunes, figs and all manner of glorious flavours – this is a wine which is still in its infancy and will grow up, very happily, over the next 15 years or so. (GWW £68) This was accompanied by the best dish of the night, in my opinion– a tonguetingling, enchanting cheese dish, with a glorious medley of both textures and flavours. An unctuous purée of sweetly salty Gorgonzola, with a lick of creamy, tangy Dolcelatte, balanced by honeyed, candied walnuts, the sharpness of pickled pear and the bitter crunch of chicory.

And with that, the star of the show appeared – Philip Mazzei 2008, in all its aristocratic glory – a wine produced entirely from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape, but a blend from the two estates: Fonterutoli in Chianti Classico and Belguardo in Maremma, picked separately, fermented separately, aged separately in small oak barrels for 24 months, and only then carefully blended and crafted into this intense, powerful, yet voluptuous wine. Dense and brooding, it’s a youthful thoroughbred held in tight at the reins, and just showing a little of the promise to come – richness, opulence, silkiness and a strong vein of sweet spices, bitter chocolate and violet scented dark fruits (GWW £32.50). Mazzei will only make this wine in tiny quantities in the very best of years, so it’s one to watch, and nurture. This was an evening to remember, with the perfect menu to showcase this marvellous collection. All wines are available from Great Western Wine Shop Wells Road, Bath Call 01225 322810 Visit www.greatwesternwine.co.uk 43


> flavour chocolate week

chocolate week

Chocolate Week, which this year takes place between October 14 and 20, promotes the very best in chocolate, celebrating the work of top chocolatiers and chocolate-related companies. We don’t need an excuse to enjoy a cacao-based treat, but here are some suggestions to help you to celebrate the week in style…

Seed & Bean

The UK’s only 100% ethically accredited chocolate company, Seed & Bean strive to produce chocolate ‘with a conscience’. All bars are organic, mostly Fairtrade and Soil Association approved, ensuring cocoa farmers are getting a fair deal and the environment is being respected. They are all handmade in England in very small batches for full and daring flavour! Choose from a range of bars in varieties such as Cornish Sea Salt, Mandarin & Ginger, Lemon & Cardamom and more. Seed & Bean also offer four bar gift boxes or their range of chocolate hampers: the ideal gift for the chocoholic in your life. SPECIAL OFFER FOR FLAVOUR READERS! Simply quote flavour20 when ordering online, and receive 20% off your order. www.seedandbean.co.uk

Revolution Chocolates

Take cover! Ration bars from Revolution Chocolates are the perfect treat for during the blackout, in the shelter, or any time! Handmade in Somerset, using only the finest tip-top quality ingredients, they are ideal for gifts or for yourself. A ‘gas mask’ gift box is also available with a four-bar purchase. Available to buy in person at Bath Vintage & Antiques Market, Bath Artisan Market (at Green Park Station) and online at www.revolutionchocolates.co.uk

Miss Wallflower

Unable to eat chocolate, or just looking for a healthier snack? Miss Wallflower have the answer with their range of snacks, nutritionally formulated to provide real functional benefits. As a chocolate substitute, try their Refresh candy: a cool mint bar that combines both the fresh, clear taste of peppermint and the intense taste of pure raw chocolate. 100% raw and containing just almonds, coconut, cacao, agave and fresh mint, it offers a raw, wholesome alternative to traditional snacking. The Refresh candy and more are available from Planet Organic, Real Foods and online at www.misswallflower.org 44


> flavour chocolate week

James Chocolates

James Chocolates has been creating award-winning chocolates by hand since 1995. Based in the Somerset village of Evercreech, the company’s creations feature big flavour combinations, bold packaging and nifty design; they’re perfect to lift the autumnal gloom and to make you smile. New to the James Chocolates range this season are a trio of tasting boxes; choose from Luxury Truffle, Salted Caramel or Chilli Chocolate. The company’s famous range of chocolate animals has been boosted by the addition of Sea Salty Milk Chocolate Penguins and their cousins Cool Minty Dark Chocolate Penguins while new Popcorn Chocolate Bites are fast becoming the team’s latest favourite. They are made from sweet and salty caramel milk chocolate rippled with classic popcorn.

Competition!

To win the first prize of a selection from the James Chocolates range worth £50.00, answer the following question. There is also a Salted Caramel Tasting Box each for two runners-up: Marc de Champagne Chocolate Truffles are so named because: A. They were the favourite of the Marquis de Champagne in France B. They are made using a Champagne liqueur C. They appear on the regional flag of the Champagne region To enter, email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with JAMES CHOCOLATES in thesubject line and your full contact details in the email body. Good luck! www.jameschocolates.co.uk

Green & Black’s Organic

Introduces Two New Citrus Inspired Flavours This September, Green & Black’s Organic have unveiled two new varieties bursting with flavour; Lemon with Dark Chocolate and Orange with Milk Chocolate. The new bars, which have been eighteen months in the making, have been inspired by the flavours of summer. Green & Black’s Organic go to the ends of the earth to find the best organic and fair-trade ingredients for all of their bars and these two new additions are no different. When developing the Green & Black’s Organic Orange bar, they decided to use blood oranges blended with Green & Black’s Organic milk chocolate to create a fuller flavour chocolate with a slightly sweeter taste and more intense impact. The brand new Green & Black’s Organic Lemon bar infuses 60% Dark Chocolate with a zesty lemon flavour striking a balance between a fresh citrusy hit and enticing rich dark chocolate. The subtle lemon tang of the bar will transport you back to those long hot summer days of years gone by. The whole range is available from stores nationwide and via the Green & Black’s Organic online store at www.greenandblacksdirect.com. 45


> flavour my chef

The key to dinner party success Most people love entertaining. Nothing beats having friends or family over for a special occasion or get-together; anything from a celebratory dinner party or a long, leisurely lunch to a sumptuous Christmas dinner. But do you ever feel you are missing out? The pleasure of feeding one’s guests a selection of fine food can be very rewarding, but for the host or hostess this can be at the expense of half heard anecdotes, missed punch lines and misunderstood points of politics or gossip, as one dashes between kitchen and dining room. Not to mention the frantic search for that last exotic ingredient and hours of preparation over a hot oven.

If you love delicious food, lovingly prepared and exquisitely presented, but do not want to do the cooking yourself, then the new My Chef service could be for you. Hiring a private chef or cook has never been easier – you can simply relax and enjoy your dinner party and let My Chef impress your dinner party guests. My Chef is the latest service from Greycoat Lumleys – a trusted name in household recruitment for over 15 years, so we know a thing or two about good service. The inspiration for the new My Chef service came from a real gap in the market to provide an innovative, easy way of dining at home. For some time now, the popularity of dining at home has been increasing, equalled by a growing discernment among the food-loving public. The demand for great food is fuelled by a continuous bombardment of beautiful images of exquisite food in magazines and on cookery programmes, in addition to a booming desire for high-end dining. My Chef fills a gap because it offers stress-free dining at home and makes the experience of high-end dining accessible, without the interminable wait for a high-end restaurant table booking. Clients simply have to choose a chef or cook from one of four levels, which are priced according to expertise – Michelin or rosette experienced chef, personal chef, family cook or cookery school graduate. All the chefs and cooks working with My Chef have been interviewed face to face and been subject to a minimum of two verbal reference checks. They have prior experience working in private households and bespoke environments and are used to working to the highest standards. My Chef has a wide database of thoroughly checked chefs and cooks at all levels. The service encompasses all the needs of the client, from menu planning to shopping, cooking, serving and clearing up, all through one booking and within a budget to suit them. Clients can benefit from all the personal contact and attention to detail associated with having a personal chef or cook. So if you are looking for something more exclusive and bespoke than the food offered by run-of-the-mill catering companies, then hiring through My Chef could be the answer.

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> flavour my chef

Michelin and rosette experienced chefs For anyone with a love of food, who demands elegance, sophistication and a perfectly executed menu, booking a Michelin or rosette experienced chef cannot fail to impress.

Personal chefs Personal chefs are dedicated to their craft and offer a professional experience for clients who want a special occasion to be made truly memorable with perfectly executed dishes, beautifully presented.

Family cooks My Chef offers a huge variety of family cooks, with equally varied experience. My Chef’s family cooks are happy to cater for dinner parties, holidays and shooting parties, whether they are formal or informal events.

Cookery school graduates Our cookery school graduates have recently undertaken a cookery course at a reputable school; they will possess good, basic cookery skills and are often flexible and happy to muck in with other household responsibilities.

Visit the website www.mychefonline.co.uk or call us on 020 7976 6000 for more details on how the service works. We will be delighted to help you find your ideal My Chef.

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> flavour goodfellows

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Emily Knight enjoys chef/owner Adam Fellows’ tasting menu

It’s very rare that I’ll go out for a meal where I can’t find a single fault – one of the downsides of writing about food for a living, I guess. Every element is carefully scrutinised, which does sometimes take the enjoyment out of going out for dinner. Goodfellows, on the other hand, was an entirely different experience; and one where every single thing was no less than perfect. Adam Fellows and his wife Martine opened Goodfellows in Wells in 2004. Chef Adam has a great deal of experience under his belt; a Michelin-starred stint at Charlton House, and employment in the kitchens of two fish restaurants before opening 48

Goodfellows. The premises is set over two buildings: on one side, a brasserie offering breakfasts, coffee and lunch, and on the other side the award-winning seafood restaurant where we dined. Diners can choose to enjoy a more private and quiet dining experience upstairs, or opt for the hustle and bustle of the downstairs dining room where our memorable evening took place. Tables are clustered round an open-plan kitchen where diners can watch Adam and his team at work – and if you’re sitting with your back to him, handily located screens on the wall in front of you will show you what’s going on at the pass.

While you can choose from the Market Menu, priced at £42 for three courses, or the À La Carte which is roughly £40 per head, we enjoyed Adam’s Chef’s Table seven-course tasting menu. At £65 per head, it’s not cheap – especially if you choose to add the wine flight at £30 for glasses to accompany five of the courses. However, it’s a great way to experience a wide range of dishes, and the portion sizes have been judged just right. From a beautifully fresh gazpacho with chunks of cucumber and flaked Brixham crab we progressed to one of my favourite courses – thick and meaty slices of tuna sashimi, which were served with cubes of soy jelly, pickled mooli


> flavour goodfellows

¹) XMZNMK\Ta KWWSML ÅTTM\ WN [MIJI[[ _I[ XMZKPML WV I JML WN LQKML 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV ^MOM\IJTM[ IVL I [TQKM WN [INNZWV JZIQ[ML NMVVMTº and a wonderful wasabi crème fraiche to bring a fairly standard Japanese dish up to fine dining standards. A perfectly cooked fillet of seabass was perched on a bed of diced Mediterranean vegetables and a slice of saffron braised fennel, and topped with a chunky tapenade that added just the right amount of salt to the dish. This was followed by one of the most novel scallop dishes I’ve ever eaten: two meaty little blighters served in a retro scallop shell, surrounded by a richly spiced curry sauce and an apple and vanilla pastry which, perhaps surprisingly, worked. The end of our savoury courses was heralded with a

well-presented slate starring a chunky fillet of turbot served with a carrot and star anise purée and a wonderfully autumnal slow gin reduction, with a bundle of pancetta and truffle-stuffed cabbage also signalling the progression into colder months. Two desserts made up courses six and seven, starting with a vanilla-flecked panna cotta surrounded by berries and a berry jus, and topped with a quenelle of a seriously strong but sweet grappa sorbet. A great fresh and light touch before a rich dessert to end our meal – Adam’s take on Black Forest gateau. His rich chocolate and cherry cake was enclosed by two sheets of milk chocolate, with both fresh and marinated

cherries, cherry purée and the freshest of cherry sorbets lightening the whole dish. With the combination of a fantastically put-together meal, attentive service and the theatre of the chef’s table experience, I can honestly say that this is one of the best meals I’ve recently had the pleasure of enjoying. And, for someone who eats for a living, that really is saying something.

Goodfellows Seafood Restaurant 5-5b Sadler Street Wells BA5 2RR Call: 01749 673866 Visit: www.goodfellowswells.co.uk 49


> flavour goldbrick house

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?gd\Zja[c @gmk] It’s all change at Bristol’s Goldbrick House, with a brand new dining room, a new head chef and a new à la carte menu too. Flavour catches up with Goldbrick House to find out more…

?gd\Zja[c @gmk] o]d[ge]k f]o @]Y\ ;`]^ ;`jaklaYf OjY__ Goldbrick House is pleased to welcome a brand new head chef to the team. Christian Wragg joined Goldbrick in August from The Royal Oak in Leighterton, Gloucestershire – with a local career history that includes a sous chef role at Bristol’s City Inn and a head chef role at Bon Viveur. Christian’s arrival heralds the arrival of a new à la carte menu, with sample dishes listed on the right. Goldbrick House posed a few questions to Christian to get to know him better…

L]dd mk YZgml qgmj hj]nagmk ogjc ]ph]ja]f[] I have been privileged to work all over the world, from Africa to America and a few places in-between. I once spent two weeks working in a Michelin Star restaurant in a town called Hardenberg in Holland. The head chef was a much laid back, jolly man who constantly had a big cigar in his mouth, even in the kitchen! He did however teach me how to make the best game terrine I’ve ever tasted…. Keep your eye on future menus for that!

L]dd mk Y dalld] YZgml qgmj klqd] g^ [ggcaf_7 Asking a chef about his favourite ingredients or style of cooking is like asking an artist what his favourite colour is; it’s almost impossible to answer. I can tell you I love the satisfaction I get from making an amazing loaf of bread, or the bliss of eating a fresh ripe Great British strawberry, or the heart-warming feeling of tucking into a homemade steak and ale pie and the excitement of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs with champagne on Christmas morning. I enjoy all these sensations and if I can make others feel the same way using the medium of cooking then my job is done.

KlYjl]jk Honey cured sea trout with oat and thyme pancakes and fig mousse: £6.75 Pulled duck leg with homemade walnut muffin, pickled celery and a sultana and juniper berry dressing: £6.95

EYafk Lightly smoked monkfish with a carrot and coriander pakora and a kale, runner bean and curried clam sauce: £17.50 Pot roasted leg of chicken served honey glazed with mashed butterbeans and blue cheese and braised leeks: £13.95

<]kk]jlk Mint and white chocolate truffle with dark chocolate biscuit chunks and blackberry compote: £6.75 Gooseberry and honeycomb fool with raisin shortcake: £5.95

Goldbrick House, 69 Park Street, Bristol BS1 5PB Call: 0117 945 1950 Visit: www.goldbrickhouse.co.uk

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For the full menu, visit the Goldbrick House website.


> flavour goldbrick house

L`] GjYf_]jq2 :jYf\ f]o \afaf_ jgge ^gj ?gd\Zja[c Goldbrick House has recently opened a brand new 45-cover dining area, which now brings their total capacity to 520 across a range of different rooms. The Orangery has replaced the little-used roof terrace at Goldbrick to provide the venue with a beautiful rooftop dining option. With views across Bristol, the bi-fold windows give an al fresco feel during warmer weather, and can be closed off during the colder months for a cosy and naturally day-lit dining room. The Orangery is a striking room, with warm orange blinds, purple seating and rustic, reclaimed floorboards on the ceiling giving a bright Mediterranean feel. Two ornate ‘Skygarden’ lights by Italian designer lighting firm FLOS provide a stunning centrepiece, alongside a beautiful hanging feature composed of grapes and oranges. While rooms on lower floors tend to be darker and cooler, The Orangery provides Goldbrick House with a room with a lighter and airier feel. While generally open for public dining, this new room can also be sectioned off for private dining, and hired out for occasions such as Christmas parties, weddings and even corporate lunches and meetings, complete with free Wi-Fi and the use of a projector. Says Goldbrick House director Ben Paxton, “We’re excited to be extending an already thriving business. We have a range of cosy rooms all over the building, but have never had a rooftop feel to an inside dining area before – it’s great to have something new and different!”

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+LHU 4PSI\YU

HZRHJOLM! Do you have any exciting ideas for using burrata? Liz Fox

Dean Milburn is head chef at Filini at Bristol’s Radisson Blu Hotel, a restaurant offering a taste of authentic Italy with speciality dishes based on Sardinian cuisine.

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What do you think of the current Italian food offering in the UK that is created by non-Italians? Christina Robino, Bristol

What’s the best way to stop pasta from sticking together while it’s being cooked? David Childs, Wells

My personal favourite way to eat burrata is to simply let it come to room temperature and drizzle with some good extra virgin olive oil and fresh cracked black pepper, served with some crisp grilled focaccia. Not very exciting I know but this cheese is SO good on its own, trying to do too much can actually take away from the avour. Try it as a mixed up cross between a salad and an antipasti platter by serving it on top of a few slices of bresaola (salt cured beef, another of my favorite ingredients), or high-quality prosciutto, along with fresh ďŹ gs, a little rocket and pine nuts.

8

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I think the stereotype of ethnic cuisine only being good from someone from that ethnic background is changing for the better. Of course growing up with food will usually give you an appreciation and understanding of it more than someone only lightly exposed to it, but like any type food to a good chef, you can immerse yourself in a culinary culture; learn all you can, experiment, travel, dine out at all types of different restaurants, to truly grasp the CONCEPT of an ethnic cuisine instead of just rehashing recipes. That being said, I would rather judge food on the food, and not someone’s ethnicity, and like most things in life, there is great and not so great Italian food from both Italians and non-Italians. There is also a stigma attached to Italian cuisine, because at its very core, it’s great simple cooking, relying on showcasing the quality of ingredients above complicated techniques, so some people can misinterpret that as meaning that it is EASY to do, when in fact it is just easy to do BADLY. I have been fortunate to work under some great chefs growing up, notably two wonderful Italians, and have spent much time cooking, eating, learning and loving Italian food, and as a non-Italian am quite proud of what I can offer.

The best way to keep it from sticking while cooking is to make sure your water is well salted, it should taste mildly like seawater, and is at a rolling boil (the salt will help to raise the boiling point of the water as well as season the pasta). Separate the pasta as you’re dropping it into the water, and give it a good stir every once in a while, to keep the water circulating, moving the pasta with it. Contrary to myth, adding oil does nothing for it – it simply oats on top and is the ďŹ rst thing drained off so it never actually touches the pasta.

I sometimes struggle to ďŹ nd pecorino, is it okay to use Parmesan or Grana Padano instead, or are different cheeses better for different things? Michael Tanner, Weymouth

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Pecorino is from ewe’s milk, while Parmesan and Grana Padano are made from raw cow’s milk which gives them a different avour. I personally prefer the nuttier, saltier, stronger taste of a good pecorino, but honestly, as crumbly textured, hard, aged cheeses, they can be interchanged in recipes as long as you taste and are happy with the ďŹ nal product, and realise the resulting avour will be different. What I say is go for it if you want to experiment with different cheeses in your recipes; there are so many great ones to try.

-PSPUP )YPZ[VS )YVHK 8\H` )YPZ[VS ): )@ ^^^ MPSPUPYLZ[H\YHU[ JVT YLZ[H\YHU[IYPZ[VS 52


*ZQ[\WT¼[ 0IZJW]Z[QLM Bristol’s Harbourside is a truly vibrant part of the city; an area that provides a great place to live, work and relax. In addition to attractions in the form of museums, art galleries and walks along the water, the Harbourside features a range of festivals throughout the year. It is also filled with a plethora of eating and drinking options; the perfect place to enjoy a meal or drink with friends at any time of day. From Mud Dock and Mud Dock Deli to the Arnolfini, The Olive Shed, Lockside and more, there’s something for all tastes and budgets. Here we’ve rounded up some of the area’s top food and drink hotspots for you to enjoy…

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> avour bristol’s harbourside

8]J[ IVL *IZ[ Duncan Shine explores the city’s waterfront drinking options Few cities have seen as much change over the past 15-20 years as Bristol has. And nowhere is that change more visible than along the Harbourside. In the 1990s the area was largely run down, with largely disused warehouses and sheds spread out in front of wasteland used as a makeshift car park. With ArnolďŹ ni having been the ďŹ rst to change the face of the area, the Harbourside is now awash with bar after pub, eaterie after restaurant. Here are a few worth a visit. The ďŹ rst bar along the covered waterside walkway is 6W 0IZJW]Z[QLM, a very informal bar with bare oorboards, roughhewn wooden tables and the constant buzz of conversation. Often there is live music to accompany a good selection of local

beers and ciders. ‘Acer’ from The Bristol Beer Factory was in particularly good form when I visited, a really good fruity session bitter. For the peckish, steak, venison burgers, pork belly and risotto promise a substantial meal.

Next along is the ‘old lady’ of the Harbourside, the ?I\MZ[PML )Z\[ +QVMUI has been around since 1982, and the cafĂŠ bar upstairs is worth a visit even if you’re not taking in a movie. Bath Ales provide the exclusive ‘Watershed Pale Ale’, alongside beers from local breweries such as Arbor Ales. The Watershed is particularly renowned for its ‘plot to plate’ policy in only serving food from local, sustainable sources. A new addition for 2013 is <PM ;\IJTM. A specialist pizza and cider bar with long banquet-style tables as well as some more intimate seating around the sides. A great place for cider novices and connoisseurs alike, the cider tasting board offers a goodvalue sample of ďŹ ve different varieties, while boxes of a myriad local ciders behind the bar await the more adventurous. The pizzas are imaginatively created and titled so it’s not just four seasons, Hawaiians and meat feasts. Beyond Pero’s Bridge is one of the better ‘branded’ bars in the area; the 8Q\KPMZ 8QIVW is one of about 20 in the country, and offers Marston’s beers and simple food in stylish and wellappointed surroundings. There are plenty of other restaurants and bars in this thriving tourist district, so whether you are drinking, eating, partying or all three, you are spoilt for choice on the Harbourside. 54


)ZVWTÅVQ +INu *IZ

<PM 7TQ^M ;PML

Arnolfini Café Bar is welcoming the change of season with candlelight, cocktails, an extended all-day brunch menu and a new tapas menu.

Just a stone’s throw from the water’s edge, serving great food for all occasions

We are now taking bookings for Christmas, please go to arnolfini.org.uk or contact us for a menu. Present this ad to receive a complimentary glass of house wine when you order a selection of three tapas (available Tuesday–Saturday, not valid with any other offer). Arnolfini Café Bar, 16 Narrow Quay, Bristol BS1 4QA Call: 01179 172305 Email: cafebar@arnolfini.org.uk Visit: arnolfini.org.uk Twitter: @ArnolfiniCafe

2 Courses for £10* Organic Wines Mediterranean tapas Lunch, dinner, Sunday roasts Cut out this offer and get a free glass of wine** *Terms & conditions apply, ** valid til 31st Nov 2013.

The Olive Shed, Floating Harbour, Princes Wharf, Bristol BS1 4RN Call: 0117 929 1960 Visit: www.theoliveshed.com

4WKS[QLM Lockside is Bristol’s waterfront cafe offering casual dining on the edge of the Avon Gorge, with great views of the Clifton Suspension Bridge, an ideal meeting place providing relaxed waterfront eating for customers in the Bristol area. The site is famous for being Sid’s Cafe in Only Fools and Horses, with a menu that is simple but up-to-the-minute, with lots of comfort appeal. Quality is of paramount importance at Lockside, and they aim to cook the best, fresh, quality produce to exacting standards. Their menus are diverse offering a wide range of hearty breakfasts, served all day, and contemporary lunches. Lockside is available for private functions to suit a wide range of events and can be tailored to suit your specific requirements. Well-known for creating a great Christmas atmosphere, Lockside is now taking bookings for breakfast, lunch and dinner parties. Contact Coral on 07971 812 540 to discuss further. The atmosphere at Lockside is relaxed, friendly and informal, while the overall impression is of a restaurant which is comfortable, light and open. Outside, there are seating areas with views over the river. It is their attention to detail and high level of service that ensures your whole dining experience will be truly memorable. Lockside, No.1 Brunel Lock Road, Cumberland Basin, Bristol BS1 6XS

Call: 0117 9255 800 Visit: www.lockside.net

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> flavour elite hotels

Emily Knight visits all four of the group’s country house hotels in a day Distinctive hotels, distinctive experiences and distinctive locations are how Elite Hotels market their four properties, all to be found in the South East of England. And they’re right. Their aim is to exceed your expectations of a country house hotel, creating unique experiences for their guests in properties that have been chosen for their charm and character, and which have been lovingly restored to produce luxury hotels that are full of character but have a relaxed and friendly environment.

I

was lucky enough to enjoy a whistlestop tour of all four hotels in one day, beginning with an overnight stay at the Luton Hoo Hotel just outside Luton Airport. L You’d never know that the M1 was just a stone’s throw away: with 1,065 acres of land, Elite Hotels have been working for the last 10 years using old plans, maps and paintings of Luton Hoo to piece together the history and layout of the mansion and its grounds; a history which is so impressive that there has even been a book published about the estate. Luton Hoo features 228 bedrooms and suites, split between the Mansion, the Parkland Wing and the Flower Garden Wing. A short drive (or longer walk!) through the estate from the main house is the Robert Adam building: a Grade II listed stable building which features a spa, 18-metre pool, a brasserie and a bar;

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Warren Weir – a purpose-built five star meeting and conferencing space; plus a golf course, tennis courts and more. We enjoyed an overnight stay in a room that looked out onto the beautiful fountains in the garden behind the Mansion: a stunning room that offered a comfortable night’s sleep and an enormous bathroom with complimentary Molton Brown toiletries. The following morning, we enjoyed breakfast in the Grinling Gibbons room – part of the hotel’s Wernher Restaurant, which also includes an incredibly grand State Dining Room with opulent marble walls and beautiful chandeliers. Executive Chef Kevin Clark combines adventurous dishes with traditional British classics in his menus, producing the likes of Gloucester Old Spot pork cutlet with braised cabbage and apple compote

alongside a pressed terrine of potato, rabbit and Cumbrian ham with Champagneinfused raisin and shallot vinaigrette on n his menu. Local produce and seasonal game me feature on Luton Hoo’s menus, with fish h also sourced from sustainable fish stocks. cks. After breakfast and a tour of Luton Hoo, o, we departed for our lunch stop, Tylneyy Hall Hotel, situated just outside Hook, in Hampshire: a stunning Grade II listed mansion house within 66 acres. We were lucky enough with the weather to enjoy a drink on the terrace before lunch, before heading inside to The Oak Room Restaurant for lunch: a wonderful panelled room that I imagine would be very cosy in winter. Head Chef Stephen Hine’s menu changes seasonally, depending heavily on local produce. My smoked duck and walnut salad, followed by a beautifully


> flavour elite hotels

poached fillet of smoked haddock with a poached egg and chive butter sauce, showcased the talents of the kitchen team perfectly, and was followed by some amazing sorbets. Delicious! Lunch was followed by a tour of the gardens, stopping by the picturesque lake to take in the scenery, and learning about how the garden team are working to restore areas of the land to its former glory, as documented in the history of the building. For afternoon tea, a trip to the seaside and The Grand G Hotel in Eastbourne: the only five-star five-s rated seaside hotel in England. The 152-bedroom 1 hotel is a grand Victorian

in 186 acres of countryside which includes a par 3, 18-hole golf course, various jogging routes, an on-site country club and a beautiful converted chapel which features original stained glass windows, and is available to hire for all manner of events. All of Ashdown Park’s 106 bedrooms and suites are completely different: some with stained glass windows and wooden beams, some with great views of the gardens, lakes and forest. Our room for the night was very well appointed, with great views of the gardens, a comfortable seating area and a sizeable bathroom with Jacuzzi bath, separate shower and plenty of Molton Brown toiletries. We enjoyed a beautiful dinner courtesy of Executive Head Chef Andrew Wilson in one of the hotel’s private dining rooms, including a perfectly cooked

building at the western end of Eastbourne’s promenade, a stone’s throw from the sea. Most rooms overlook either the seafront or the South Downs and, nicknamed the ‘White Palace’, The Grand is an imposing landmark that often welcomes back several generations year after year. The whole building is imposing but with a relaxed feel, designed to appeal to leisure visitors who wish to explore the seafront or the South Downs, and also business visitors who can take advantage of their wide range of business facilities. In addition to an outdoor swimming pool, The Grand has its own spa facilities, open to both hotel residents and the public.

lamb dish with caramelised sweetbread, a truffled carrot purée and a potato raviolo, before settling down to an incredibly comfortable night’s sleep. Although all very different in terms of style and surroundings, Elite’s four hotels do share something in common: their ability to blend luxurious surroundings and top-notch service with a truly relaxed feel. The perfect choice for a break from the stresses of everyday life.

Luton Hoo Hotel, Golf & Spa The Mansion House Luton Hoo Luton Bedfordshire LU1 3TQ Call: 01582 734437 Visit: www.lutonhoo.com

We enjoyed a beautiful afternoon tea in The Grand’s Presidential Suite, taking advantage of the sun on its large balcony overlooking the sea. We were truly spoilt with a range of finger sandwiches, scones and cakes (the chocolate and cherry slice being a highlight): a treat that gave an indication of the quality to expect in the hotel’s two restaurants. Our final stop was the Ashdown Park Hotel el & Country Club in the heart of the Ashdown wn Forest in East Sussex, reportedly the forest st that inspired A.A. Milne’s Winnie The Pooh h stories, with the Pooh Sticks Bridge a popular attraction. Ashdown Park is one of the smallest of the Elite Hotels group, set

Tylney Hall Hotel Rotherwick Hook Hampshire RG27 9AZ Call: 01256 764881 Visit: www.tylneyhall.com The Grand Hotel King Edwards Parade Eastbourne East Sussex BN21 4EQ Call: 01323 412345 Visit: www.grandeastbourne.com Ashdown Park Hotel & Country Club Wych Cross, Nr Forest Row East Sussex RH18 5JR Call: 01342 824988 Visit: www.ashdownpark.com 59



Back

To School If you’re starting to think about choosing a school for your children, then our guide should help you to make an informed decision. With details of schools themselves, as well as of the Independent Schools Show, finding the perfect school couldn’t be easier…

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> flavour back to school

w The Independent Scho o ls Sho N o vember 9 and 10, 2013 SAVE THE DATE: AN ESS ENTI

AL FORUM FOR PARENTS AN D SCHOOLS

On the weekend of 9 and 10 November 2013 013,, The Independent Schools Show will take place in the Evolution Centre, Battersea Park , London SW11 4NJ.

Now in its seventh year, the show has helped thousands of parents select the ideal school for their child. By bringing Britain’s top independent schools together under one roof, this unmissable event enables visiting parents to approach many schools in a single day and make informed choices, based on their child’s particular needs. For the exhibiting schools, the show represents a vital networking platform where they can forge relationships and discuss the latest issues surrounding the sector. In 2013, 170 schools from across the country will be exhibiting at the show, making it the biggest yet. The list includes some of the most famous names in education – Eton, Harrow, Cheltenham Ladies College, Marlborough and Wellington, as well as many others from around the country and represents the very best in British schooling. Education theatre and discussion area: free expert advice As well as the wide variety of pre-prep, prep and secondary schools on show, we offer various talks to parents from expert speakers in our Education Theatre, showcasing the many advantages of British education and highlighting its deserved reputation the world over. Speakers for 2013 include the former ambassador to Saudi Arabia, Sir Sherard Cowper-Coles, on the increasing global competition between schools and Yale graduate Dr Donald Billingsley Ph. D on the rising popularity of US universities.

case, the show is the chance for them to explore the wide variety of options the independent sector offers. With this in mind, we want to keep children happily occupied so that their parents can make the most of their time with exhibitors at the show. As well as a champagne bar and organic café there is a bouncy castle, a crèche and face painting for kids.

Guiding parents to the perfect school for their child This year, around 3,500 parents are expected to visit the show. They may have been privately educated or are new to the system and seek this opportunity for the first time for their children. Whatever the

New for 2013: brand new website & online schools selection tool Helping parents find the right school is our priority and has been at the core of the show’s ethos for the past seven years. We can now help visiting parents to shortlist schools online before they visit the show.

We have made a unique online selection tool available, specifically designed to help parents tailor their search through the schools database using a range of criteria. This should mean that everyone’s time is well spent over the two days. For more information, visit www.schoolsshow.co.uk.

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>flavour flavourchristmas back to school > dinner

Hanford Scho o l

The children who come to Hanford come because they want to enjoy a country life in a relaxed family atmosphere and at the same time maintain a standard of work that will enable them to fulfil their own potential. They may enter the school in any year and may be of any age with entirely different standards of previous schooling and with varying abilities and requirements. Their first year is a general introduction to a boarding school. Although there are local day girls, every effort is made to see that they mix with the boarders from the beginning. They must become accustomed to living with each other and to observe the needs of others. During this period they begin to understand the ways of Hanford and the teachers begin to assess them, their problems and their capabilities. Every afternoon the children use the grounds for free play and games with their friends. During the afternoon period many activities take place: organised games, team training, cross country running over the hills, swimming, music lessons, choir practices and back up lessons in the 64

Learning Support department. But always, a child must have some time of free play, whatever she might like to use it for – sometimes just sitting in a corner reading a book. Day girls are treated with as little differentiation as possible and usually they stay in some nights a week with their friends and only leave after prep or supper on ordinary days. They take part in everything that goes on and can be elected into any of the self-elected committees in the Sixth Form which help run the school.

are self-elected by the children from the Sixth Form, have specific duties and have fortnightly meetings in the drawing room in which they discuss problems, air their own ideas for improvements and anything that might be going wrong. Our ultimate aim by the time the child leaves is to have developed her confidence in her own ability so that every girl can achieve the academic entry she requires for her next school without undue pressure. Learning should remain fun and individual talents must be recognised. Common entrance or specific scholarships should never be the be-all and end-all for the intelligent child, but she must, in her last year, be encouraged to widen the scope of her learning to expand her interest and to be given the opportunity to do this.

There are many committees, which help different departments and keep the children actively involved in their own particular interests. There is a music committee, an art committee, a food committee, an entertainments committee (when needed), a games committee, a chicken committee, and the large riding committee which catches the ponies in the early morning and helps with the inexperienced small riders.

Hanford School Hanford School, Child Okeford, Blandford Forum, Dorset DT11 8HN

The four committees that help to run the school are very prestigious. They

Call: 01258 860 219 Visit: www.hanford.dorset.sch.uk


> flavour back to school

Badminton Scho ol her helps every girl achieve

full potential

Badminton School is a thriving independent day and boarding school for girls aged three-18, which has remained at the forefront of girls’ education for well over 150 years. Set within a campus of beautiful buildings and pleasant gardens in the city of Bristol, the School has an enviable sense of community which is felt the moment you step inside the gates. With a consistently outstanding academic record coupled with excellent pastoral care, Badminton’s approach to the holistic education it provides is to broaden the girls’ skills, knowledge and attitudes to ensure they are curious and confident. Badminton girls are characteristically thoughtful individuals who are understanding of the viewpoints of others and who leave school ready to face the changing and challenging wider world. The best way to understand the school and to enjoy its atmosphere is to come and visit. Please do get in touch to register for one of our forthcoming open events

Blazer Bear

detailed below, or to arrange an individual visit and we will look forward to welcoming you and your daughter to Badminton. Junior, Senior and Sixth Form Open Morning – Wednesday 9 October Badminton School Westbury Road, Westbury On Trym, Bristol, BS9 3BA Call: 0117 905 5271 Visit: www.badmintonschool.co.uk Email: admissions@badmintonschool.co.uk Twitter: @AcorntoOakBristol

The Blazer Bear is a fantastic keepsake, made from school uniform items or any other special item of clothing such as kilts, summer dresses or even rugby tops. Each bear is bespoke and handmade by Pru and Kathy, and can incorporate other items of clothing including ties, sports kits, scarves and more. The Blazer Bear story began with four bears made from four neglected blazers, and were created as a wonderful memento of the owners’ school days. Since then, Blazer Bears have been made from a wide variety of school clothing – and even a 1940s RAF jacket and an ex-Lions player’s rugby shirt. Bears can be further personalised by including additional colours. Achievement badges can be added to the front or back, and a nametag is stitched behind the ear. A unique and special gift for both children and adults alike!

Blazer Bear gift vouchers are also available.

Call: 01892 860307 / 07876 741817 Visit: www.blazerbear.co.uk Email: info@blazerbear.co.uk

65



Your lifestyle guide to all things eco...

Autumn events from the National Trust Yeo Valley help to promote two great campaigns

Share a ride this October Find out about car sharing, and win a travel mug from TravelWest

Gardening for schools Almondsbury Garden Centre helps local schools get green ďŹ ngered

www.greenlivingmagazine.co.uk


greenliving

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To register your interest please visit www.parkgardencentres.co.uk/group/grow-at-schoolapplication.php, email richard.truscott@almondsburygardencentre.co.uk or call the Grow at School team on 01454 457331.


greenliving

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For more information about Yeo Valley, product information and recipe ideas, please visit www.yeovalley.co.uk


greenliving

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This project is part of the Strand 3 element of Unlocking of our Heritage project. For more information, visit www.southwestcoastpath.com/RDPE


greenliving

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greenliving

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> flavour sign off

+V Z[HYZ YLHSS` LX\HS Z[\MM`& Enjoy Michelin-starred dining at a lower price than you may think, says Emily Knight Coveted by a huge number of chefs, Michelin stars have become the byword for unsurpassed quality in many circles – perhaps a little odd, with Michelin being a tyre company... Nevertheless, the brand brought out its first guide book in 1900 to encourage road tripping in France, and in 1926 started its now well-known restaurant rating system – beginning with just one star, and by 1931 expanding to a hierarchical system featuring three different levels. The unveiling of the stars each year has, historically been subject to a great deal of controversy and criticism. Some disbelievers state that popular restaurants are passed over by Michelin inspectors, while others claim that stars are more likely to be awarded to restaurants that serve French cuisine. Complaints have

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been made about the delay between the inspector’s visit and the awarding of a star, with quality sometimes dropping between the two dates. In France in 2003, chef Bernard Loiseau committed suicide, reportedly after newspapers hinted that he was about to lose his third star. Don’t get me wrong: if I were a chef, I’d probably be trying my damnedest to earn one (at least) of those coveted awards, and full credit to those who do. Here in Bristol, Wilks Restaurant achieved their first Michelin star in 2013, just over a year after opening, and that’s something for which they are definitely to be commended. James Wilkins and Christine Vayssade of Wilks prove that Michelin-star dining doesn’t need to be pretentious, extortionately priced or the domain of chefs who are known the world over.

That’s what Michelin-star dining means to a lot of people. Stars – to some, I hasten to add – signify restaurants whose owners and chefs look down their noses at customers, and who charge the same for one meal of miniature proportions as the average Joe would spend on groceries in a month. That’s not always the case. If you want to dine at a Michelin-starred restaurant without the exorbitant price tag, go for lunch instead of dinner. Two Michelinstarred The Ledbury offers a three-course set lunch for £35, while The Hand & Flowers in Marlow offers theirs for just £19.50. Closer to home, lunch at Wilks in Bristol is £19, and at The Bath Priory you’ll pay just £25 for three courses – a bit of a bargain, you’ll have to agree. Proof that Michelin dining doesn’t have to be pricey and pretentious – make a lunch booking and see for yourself…




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