for people who love local food
South West | Issue 47 | March 2012
WIN!
An overnight stay for two at Bovey Castle
INSIDE
Greenliving embraces the great outdoors
Spring into Easter Our guide to the best seasonal treats
Goat on the menu? Often ignored, but rarely forgotten
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Walk, Shop and Eat Take in the delights of Frome and the surrounding villages www.flavourmagazine.com
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Editor Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com Art Director Bruce Mytton Email: design@flavourmagazine.com
welcome
39
Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Helen Kembery, Account Manager Email: helen@flavourmagazine.com Photography James Walker
Welcome to March’s edition of flavour, an issue that sees the beginning of spring, the clocks going forward, Easter, bank holidays, the lot!
Contributors Sian Blunos, Martin Blunos, Tom Bowles, Peter Swanepoel, Nick Harman, Clare Morris, Duncan Shine, Louis Labron-Johnson, Max Drake, James Underdown, Catherine Hannah, Megan Owen, Emily Conradi, Taylor Smith, Frome Town Council, Elizabeth Mytton, Jack Stein Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.
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Inside... 04 WIN! A luxury overnight break for two at Bovey Castle 10 In Season Tom Bowles and Peter Swanepoel cook up the best of the season’s produce 39 Flavour’s Cup of Tea We take a look at some exciting venues and products that give our nation of tea drinkers a boost 49 Walk, Shop and Eat A browse around Frome and the surrounding villages 66 Got your Goat? The often over-looked animal has plenty to offer
This is my favourite time of the year, with six or seven months of expectation ahead. It’s away with the warming soups, the casseroles, hot pots, heavy roasts, cooked puddings and coffee, and instead it’s the welcoming in of salads, new potatoes, barbecues, cups of tea and beer gardens. It’s like getting out of a refreshing shower with the promise of an invigorating day ahead. That’s how I see it anyway! With that in mind, we champion Easter and spring on page 20, we bring you all the reasons to ‘sup a cuppa’ on page 38 and look at earth’s treasures on page 66. My home town of Frome gets a going over on page 49, where we look at some of the great places to eat and drink, as well venturing out into the surrounding villages. I hope for all of our sakes (save those allergic to sunlight) the weather delivers what we always hope for and this can be the beginning of a wonderful few months of embracing the outdoors. Well done!
N ick Nick Gregory
08/03/2012 23:47
If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com
this month
FARMERS’ MARKET WITH A SPRING IN ITS STEP! Bristol’s newest farmers’ market situated in the beautiful courtyard of Ashton Court mansion house returns on Sunday, March 18 from 10.30am – 2.30pm. This vibrant monthly market has quickly become one of Bristol’s jewels in the crown when it comes to providing locally-sourced food and drink located on one of Bristol’s finest estates. The market is proving increasingly popular and came third behind St Nicholas and Tobacco Factory markets in a recent poll by Bristol Markets asking people to vote for their favourite local market. www.ashtoncourtestate.co.uk
WIN ONE OF THREE PUKKA TEA PACKS!
COMPETITION WINNER Congratulations go to Claire Rawlings, who wins an overnight spa break for two at Homewood Park, and Victor Windt, who wins dinner for two at The Muset, Bristol. Well done!
To celebrate our My Cup of Tea feature (P.38), Pukka Herbs, the Bristol-based producer of delicious award-winning organic herbal teas is offering one lucky reader the chance to win one of three packs comprising each of their 23 blends. Simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with Pukka Herbs in the subject line and include your full contact details. Good luck… Terms and conditions apply. www.pukkaherbs.com
BOVEY CASTLE
WIN!
Win an overnight stay for two at Bovey Castle, a beautiful hotel steeped in history, excitement, glamour and adventure. Where else can you wear your Hunter wellies at 8am, golf spikes at 3pm and Manolo Blahniks for dinner? But while they offer guests luxury and indulgence, this is not a stuffy hotel where you can’t sit on the furniture or let your kids enjoy themselves. Bovey Castle is a place where you can live out your dreams, then put your feet up! One lucky winner will receive an overnight stay in a Superior Castle room, to include a full English breakfast and dinner in the Edwardian Grill restaurant, with chilled Champagne in your room on arrival. To enter, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with Bovey Castle in the subject line and your full details in the email body copy. Good luck! Bovey Castle, North Bovey, Dartmoor National Park, Devon TQ13 8RE 01647 445000 www.boveycastle.com TERMS & CONDITIONS: Prize is based on two people sharing a Superior Castle room. Subject to availability. Excludes bank holidays, school holidays, Christmas and New Year. Dinner to be booked prior to arrival. Any additional purchases and services taken during the stay will be charged for on departure. Prize must be taken by 30/09/2012.
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GRAB THOSE GOLDEN TICKETS! The Garden Spa at the country Cotswold hotel Barnsley House has teamed up with the luxury chocolatier Lick the Spoon to bring some Roald Dahl excitement to Easter. In a Charlie and the Chocolate Factory style promotion, ‘Golden Tickets’ are being randomly placed in Easter eggs available from Lick the Spoon’s Cirencester and Bath shops and other outlets in Wiltshire and Oxfordshire. Those who find a ‘Golden Ticket’ will receive one of 10 prizes of spa experiences and treatments at The Garden Spa, nestled in the grounds of the hotel just outside Cirencester in Gloucestershire.
WINE OF THE
MONTH
www.barnsleyhouse.com
CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL LAUNCHES IN BRISTOL!
FUN DAY AT HARTLEY FARM
The popular festival announces its debut in Bristol’s Harbourside
Easter Saturday (April 7th) will go down as the latest exciting chapter in the story of Winsley’s Hartley Farm. As part of their first ever Easter Family Fun Day celebration, Hartley Farm Shop & Café is hosting a children’s book launch by celebrity local author Tim Lerwill.
This Easter weekend, Bristol’s Harbourside will be transformed into a chocolate lover’s paradise, with a selection of stands selling and showcasing chocolate in all its forms, an Easter Egg Trail, family-friendly activities, live acoustic music and special chocolatey offers at many of the harbour’s wellknown businesses and attractions. The Chocolate Festival, already a local favourite in London, Brighton and Oxford, will be located at the top of the Cascade Steps, on the Centre Promenade in the city centre, the main gateway to the Harbourside. Visitors can expect an array of chocolate and chocolate products - from warming hot chocolate to artisan truffles, chocolate cakes to chocolate fudge, churros with chocolate and even Mexican chocolate chilli! It is the perfect place to stock up on delicious Easter gifts for family, friends, and even yourself! www.festivalchocolate.co.uk
Best known for his ‘Farmer Tim’ adventure stories – aimed at three to eight-year-olds – Tim will be giving readings from his new book Market Day in Hartley Farm’s garden marquee at 11.30am and 3pm. These events are free to anyone visiting Hartley Farm’s Family Fun Day and children will be able to get into the spirit of farm adventures as they listen to Tim’s tales in a real farm setting. Hartley Farm Café will also be open all day for full English breakfast, brunch, lunch, snacks, cream teas, cakey treats including hot cross buns, and the best coffee for miles around. 01225 864948 www.hartley-farm.co.uk
Tim McLaughlin-Green, sommelier and wine consultant of Sommelier’s Choice, was shortlisted for the Harpers & Queen Sommelier of the Year award. His philosophy is tosearch for and work with family-owned wineries, producing highquality wines in small quantities, aiming for something really special. March, yummy the first Jersey Royal potatoes arrive and spring lamb, rosemary, garlic and anchovies are all beginning to feature on the menu. The choice of wine for this month is Clos de la Cure 2008, St-Emilion Grand Cru. Clos de la Cure is a blend of 75 per cent Merlot and 25 per cent Cabernet Franc. A wine for the Claret lovers, St Emilion is a favourite that offers some excellent quality wines. Clos de la Cure has a silkiness to the palate with notes of oak, tight tannins and packed with fruit. This is an extremely rewarding wine. Allow it to breathe for 30 minutes or longer. The joy with wine is to marry it with the right food. Try new season lamb and Jersey Royals with butter and mint – the fat of the lamb will allow the tannins in the wine to mellow. Available from Q Wines, Bristol, Redfield Wine Merchants, Paignton, Palmers Wine Store, Bridport, Fine Wine Sellers www.finewinesellers.co.uk. Priced from £17.95 to £22.68
www.sommelierschoice.com
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> flavour news
RAJPOOT SUCCESS
FINE DINING READY MEALS TO TAKE AWAY
Rajpoot, the celebrated restaurant in Bath has further reason to be cheerful as owner and local entrepreneur Ahmed Chowdhury was named as The Most Influential Media Person, and one of the Nine Most Influential British Persons of Bangladeshi Origin at an event held at the House of Commons recently. More information on this can be found at the following website:
Word of mouth has spread in the foodie enclaves of Bath that Cavendish Cooks are serving fine dining at £9 a plate. Do not dream of coming here without booking a table because, sadly, they will have to turn you away, they are so popular...
www.bbpower100.com www.rajpoot.com 01225 466833
www.cavendishcooks.co.uk
But, fear not, as Cavendish Cooks provide a well-needed cooking experience for Bath and beyond, producing fine dining ready meals at an affordable price to take away and enjoy in your own home with a small, select wine list too…
GERALDINE’S HOME GROWN – WHEN ONLY THE BEST IS GOOD ENOUGH! Geraldine’s Home Grown is the new name for premium quality, locally-sourced and ethically-produced, food. Geraldine’s Home Grown is now marketing pork & lamb, from its home-reared British Saddleback pigs and Welsh Black Sheep. Based at Easton-in-Gordano, their meat is finding its way into many local homes. Try out their produce which includes homemade Scotch eggs, with herbs from the garden, free-range duck or chicken eggs and of course the Saddleback sausage meat. They plan to add gourmet ready meals such as pork and mushroom casserole, Lancashire hot pot and lamb curry to their repertoire.
MEZÉ FROM THE MED
White Lodge, Martcombe Road Easton-in-Gordano, Bristol BS20 0QE
112 Emerson Way Emerson’s Green Bristol BS16 7AS
01275 373873
Avenue Café Emerson’s Green will soon be opening on weekend evenings offering a selection of Mediterranean food cooked on real charcoal. An assortment of mezé dishes including halloumi cheese and ‘souvlaki’ cooked on the charcoal accompanied by various dips, kalamata olives and traditional fayre will all be available. A great start to the spring – fresh food, good wine and great company!
01173 050505 www.avenue-cafe.com
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> flavour news
TART CAFÉ AND FOODSTORE NAMED AMONG UK RESTAURANTS CONSIDERED BEST VALUE FOR MONEY Bristol’s very own Tart Café and Foodstore on the Gloucester Road has been named one of The 50 Best Cheap Eats in the Independent’s essential guide to eating out. Tart’s owners, mother and daughter team Jennie and Ellen Bashforth, are thrilled with the accolade. “It is great to see the café acknowledged in this way,” says Jennie. “We work really hard to try to give our customers a bigger experience than a slice of cake and cup of tea without it costing them the earth.” The Promenade Gloucester Road Horfield Bristol BS7 8AE 0117 924 7628 www.lovelytart.com
FONDUE RENAISSANCE Whatley Manor has extended its menu for spring and launched a series of authentic Swiss Cheese Fondue evenings in the cosy atmosphere of the hotel’s Swiss-style brasserie,‘Le Mazot’. The brasserie, which evokes the warmth and relaxed ease of a Swiss chalet, will be holding a series of traditional ‘Fondue Plausch’ evenings on Tuesday 13th and 27th March as well as the 10th and 24th April. 01666 822 888 www.whatleymanor.com
CARLUCCIO’S COMING TO BATH Carluccio’s has appointed The Nash Partnership to submit a planning application and change of use for empty units off the north courtyard in Milsom Place. The planned cafe and deli will be an all-day operation with table service extending onto the courtyard. Carluccio’s was established in the UK in 1991 by Antonio Carluccio to offer quality Italian food at reasonable prices. The name of Carluccio’s is a terrific addition to the wonderful range of places that people can eat and drink in the centre of Bath. It is a quality brand which will fit perfectly into the city. www.carluccios.com
TASTY TEMPTER
WIN!
Indulge in the ultimate foodie weekend at the Exeter Festival of South West Food and Drink, 13th–15th April 2012. The event attracts crowds of up to 15,000 hungry revellers as well as chef demonstrations from 30 top chefs, over a hundred regional exhibitors, workshops and masterclasses for all the family, live music and a great atmosphere. To celebrate the Exeter Festival of South West England Food & Drink we are offering one lucky reader and a friend the chance to win weekend passes to the festival plus one night’s bed and breakfast stay at the Jurys Inn – one of Exeter’s finest hotels – and a signed copy of Bread Revolution by Duncan Glendinning and Patrick Ryan, from Bath-based eco-artisan bakery The Thoughtful Bread Company. For your chance to win, email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with your full contact details and write Exeter Food & Drink in the subject header. Good luck!
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AskChef:Layout 1 08/03/2012 18:18 Page 8
> flavour ask a chef
Christophe Lacroix
askachef:
Q
How do I make a standout traditional tomato sauce? Peter Richards, Malmesbury
o-owner and head chef at One Beaufort, Christophe Lacroix has been classically trained in France under Chef Jacques Le Devillec. He has worked in restaurants throughout Europe before coming to Bath and opening The Pinch of Salt and Le Petit Cochon. Christophe’s love of English food with a classic French twist makes for a memorable combination.
C
My favourite tomato sauce and one of the first I learnt to make is ‘Escoffier’s recipe’. Blanch 100g of diced bacon then crisp in hot butter. Add 100g of diced carrots, 100g of diced onions. Continue cooking slowly for 12 minutes then add 60g of plain flour and let it colour. Then add 2kg of peeled and seeded fresh tomatoes or 200g tomato purée and two crushed garlic gloves. Put in 150g of roasted ham, a litre of white chicken stock and 20g of sugar and one bouquet garnish (parsley, bay leaves, celery rolled and tied in leek leaves). Cover and simmer for two hours and then pass the sauce through a fine sieve. Delicious!
Q Q
How DO I make my Soufflé rise? It just does not happen! Sarah Harptree, Bath Soufflés are a very difficult dish to get just right, but worth the effort when they work. You need an oven that cooks evenly (always blame the tools!). Not enough flour on the inside of the ramekin will cause them to slump and it's very important that when the egg whites are whisked to ‘en neige’ – just to the peak – add a third at a time of the rest of your ingredients and finally make sure the oven is piping hot for the first ten minutes of cooking.
Q
I want to liven up my scrambled eggs in the morning – any tips? Rowena Hillier, Shoscombe It wasn't until I came to England that I had scrambled eggs for breakfast, it was always omelettes growing up, but I think one of my favorite recipes would work perfectly well as scrambled. Add a pinch of salt and stir through some goat’s curd at the very end with a knob of butter, then garnish with the spice of your choice; mine is nutmeg.
Q
I hear a lot about new season lamb, but how does that differ to lamb eaten later in the year? Rob Smith, Frome The first lambs of the season tend to be sweeter and more succulent because they mainly feed on milk, whereas later in the year they are weaned off milk and on to a diet of grass and nuts.
One Beaufort - London Road - Bath - BA1 6QB 8
Q
Can you recommend a great-tasting white wine that can accompany red meat? Dave Black, Cirencester White wine is no different than red, but certain types work better with different meats. A full-bodied Viognier works very well with beef and I recently had a wonderful South African Gewurztraminer that complemented a slow-roasted belly of pork perfectly.
01225 334050
www.onebeaufort.com
> flavour fab foodie reads
For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
fab foodie reads THE BAREFOOT CONTESSA COOKBOOK INA GARTEN Bantam Press, £20
PICK OF THE MONTH!
For more than 20 years, Barefoot Contessa, the acclaimed speciality food store, cooked and baked extraordinary dishes for enthusiastic customers in the Hamptons. For many of those years, people tried to get the exuberant owner, Ina Garten, to share the secrets of her store. Finally, the energy and style that made Barefoot Contessa such a special place are shown here, with dozens of recipes and more than 160 breathtaking photographs, in The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook. Ina Garten teaches us how to entertain with style, simplicity and a relaxed sense of fun. There are notes throughout the book for giving cocktail parties, lunches and dinner parties where everything is done before the guests arrive. And there are easy instructions for creating gorgeous party platters that don’t even require you to cook!
BREAD REVOLUTION DUNCAN GLENDINNING & PATRICK RYAN Murdoch Books, £17.99
Award-winning bakers Duncan Glendinning and Patrick Ryan, from Bathbased eco-artisan bakery The Thoughtful Bread Company, are challenging the food establishment and showing you don’t need to be an expert baker to serve up fantastic loaves! Bread Revolution is a call to arms, encouraging us to rethink our ideas about baking and show us just how easy and cost-effective baking at home can be. From cider and apple bread to cinnamon swirls, potato and rosemary loaves to crusty sourdough, Bread Revolution demystifies the bread-making process with more than 65 easy-to-follow recipes for everyday breads, deliciousflavoured loaves, sweet treats and accompaniments. With simple and affordable recipes, including summer gazpacho and winter-warming bread and butter pudding, this is real crust-to-crust eating for anyone and any budget.
PIES & TARTS MARTHA STEWART
THE MEAT FIX JOHN NICHOLSON
Bantam Press, £16.99
Biteback, £12.99
From the Queen of American cookery comes this tantalising, delicious and beautifully illustrated baking book complete with 150 irresistible recipes for sweet and savoury pies and tarts. Yum! Filled with seasonal fruit, piled high with billowy meringue, or topped with buttery streusel, pies and tarts are comforting and foolproof. In Martha Stewart’s Pies and Tarts you’ll find 150 recipes – some are savoury, some sweet; some simple enough for a weeknight, while others are fancy enough for special events. There are individual pies, savoury classics like quiche, holiday desserts for nearly every occasion, and much more besides. The book is a feast for the eyes and the palate, as well as a practical teaching tool. Fully illustrated throughout and packed with clever tips, bakers of all levels will look again and again to Martha Stewart’s Pies and Tarts for inspiration and perfect results!
For 26 years John Nicholson was a vegetarian, following a seriously healthy diet that included no cholesterol or animal fats but plenty of brown rice and lentils. However, for 26 years John Nicholson was ill – tormented year after year by apparently untreatable IBS. The Meat Fix details his remarkable transformation with the characteristic wit and humour that saw his We Ate All The Pies long listed for the 2010 William Hill Sports Book of the Year Award. It is the story of how eating meat again after 26 vegetarian years changed his life powerfully for the better, and of his quest to understand why the supposedly healthy diet he had existed on was actually damaging him. This is a fascinating, surprising, often hilarious and shocking journey of discovery. 9
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> flavour in season
At their best
right
Leeks The mighty leek is a superfood in its own right. Packed with antioxidants and vitamins, a good dose of leek will help stave off any winter cold. Leeks are part of the same family as onion and garlic but generally have a sweeter and more subtle flavour. Early, baby leeks are sweeter than their older, woodier versions and can be eaten simply on their own as a starter. The later varieties are hardier and have bags of flavour to form the base of any stock or winter soup. Always pick firm stalks with bright green tips. Avoid dehydrated, brownish looking tips.
LEEK SOUFFLÉ Finely chop 500g of leeks and wash under cold running water. Lightly sweat down the leeks in some butter until just soft and allow to cool. In a medium pan, melt 75g salted butter, stir in 75g of flour and 250ml warm milk. Cook until the mixture thickens then cool and add the softenend leeks. Brush ramekins with softened butter and line with grated Parmesan. Whisk three egg whites to soft peaks and fold through the mixture. Fill the ramekins to the top and run your finger around the edge. Cook in a pre-heated oven for 13 minutes. Serve straight from the oven.
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> flavour in season
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm and our resident South African chef Peter Swanepoel team up to bring you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
now
Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: @hartleyFarm Peter Swanepoel has been cooking-up delights in the West Country for several years and continues to inspire with original, heartfelt and stunning recipes. Follow Peter on Twitter: @chefpeter31
Spring Green Cabbage
SPRING CABBAGE CROQUETTES Finely slice a large cabbage and sweat down in a pan with some chopped garlic and thyme. Boil two large potatoes in salted water until soft and strain. Allow the mixture to cool before adding the cabbage, some chopped chervil and two egg yolks. Adjust the seasoning. Pipe the mixture into cylinders approx 5cms wide and place in the fridge to firm up. Remove when firm and roll in flour, then egg and breadcrumbs. Repeat this twice. Cook in a deep fryer at 175ºC for four minutes until golden.
This variety of cabbage gives us an insight into what’s to come as the first buds of spring arrive. They are more tolerable of colder temperatures than many of their cousins and so are available immediately after the cold winter has done its best. They are usually picked early before they form hearts and so have many loose outer leaves. Look for firm brightly-coloured green leaves with no wilting. Treat as any other cabbage and shred before cooking.
Radishes One of the earliest signs of life in the veggie patch in the British growing year. As part of the mustard family these small bulbs can pack a real peppery punch which makes a great addition sure to spice up any salad, sandwich or stir-fry. If you have decided not to grow them look for plump, firm bulbs that are bright in colour and unblemished, never wilted. They will store in a fridge for a few days but trim the leaves beforehand and plunge them into icy water before serving to reinvigorate them. My favourite way to eat them is very thinly sliced and served with lots of coriander as a garnish to a simple stir fry.
PICKLED RADISH Quickly blanch two bunches of radishes in boiling salted water and refresh! Transfer to a kilner jar. In a medium pan, bring to a simmer two chopped shallots, one clove of garlic, a sprig of thyme and rosemary, one bay leaf, 100ml white wine vinegar, 75ml rosé’, 20g castor sugar and six pink peppercorns. Infuse for three minutes and pour over the radishes. Allow to cool and place in the fridge. Great as a addition to salad.
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loving the leek! Entertain at Easter with tantalising and traditional British leek recipes
I
f you’re entertaining this Easter, tantalise your taste buds and celebrate the beginning of spring with a host of seasonal recipes from British Leeks. From a warming braised mutton with creamy leek and mint sauce to a light, leek and watercress layered vegetable terrine, the smooth sweet flavour of leeks is the perfect complement to traditional Easter ingredients. The British Leek Growers Association advises people to look for leeks with a firm, unblemished white lower part with
Leek Braised Mutton with Creamy Leek and Mint Sauce
INGREDIENTS 2 leeks, trimmed and cut into 4 rounds
Gentle braising with leeks, aromatic cinnamon, cloves and orange gives full-flavoured tender meat – use the juices for the accompanying leek sauce.
1 cinnamon stick
Serves 8
300ml braising juices, skimmed off fat
1 orange, quartered 2 sprigs rosemary 1 carrot, halved Sprinkling of sea salt and ground black pepper 1ltr full cream milk 75g butter 75g plain flour 8 fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped METHOD 1 Make 20 regular-spaced small slits in the skin of the mutton and insert cloves. Weigh joint and calculate cooking time at 90 minutes per kilo. Place mutton in a deep roasting pan and surround with
bright green leaves and a crisp texture. Smaller leeks tend to be sweeter and more tender. Like all vegetables, leeks should be washed thoroughly to ensure all grit is removed. Try out these three, easy to prepare, classic leek recipes for all the family this Easter or visit the British Leek website for seasonal British leek recipes for every occasion. www.british-leeks.co.uk
all braising ingredients and pour boiling water to come halfway up the side of the meat. Tuck a piece of wetted baking parchment over the meat and braising ingredients and cover with foil. Oven braise, adding more water if required. 2 Once cooked, remove from oven and save 300ml of the juices for the sauce, skimming off fat before measuring the liquid. Allow the meat to rest for 30 minutes before carving into thin slices. Meanwhile prepare the sauce. 3 Simmer the prepared leeks for 3-4 minutes until just tender. Drain. Melt the butter and stir in the flour. Gradually add the reserved braising juices and milk, stirring continuously over a gentle heat until the sauce is simmering. Season and add the mint and leeks. 4 Pour the sauce over the carved mutton slices and accompany with crispy oast potatoes, carrots and braised red cabbage.
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> flavour loving the leek
Leek and Watercress Layered Vegetable Terrine
INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp light and mild olive oil
Serves 6
4 cloves
25g butter 2 oranges, grated, zest and juice 300g tender young leeks, finely chopped 75g watercress, stems removed and roughly chopped 5 sheets of leaf gelatine Generous sprinkling ground black pepper 150g reduced fat creme fraiche 1 medium red pepper, seeds removed and quartered 1 tsp olive oil 200ml tomato juice Pinch of chilli pepper METHOD 1 Lightly sauté the leeks with the oil and butter, orange zest and cloves to soften.
Leek and Potato Rösti with Monkfish Kebab Perfect for entertaining, the rösti mix can be made in advance, chilled and then cooked to order. Likewise prepare the kebabs and leave in the marinade for up to 24 hours before cooking. Serves 4
INGREDIENTS 750g old potatoes such as Maris Piper, peeled and coarsely grated 450g leeks, trimmed and finely shredded in food processor 1 clove garlic, crushed 40g butter 1 medium egg Sprinkling of ground sea salt and black pepper 1 tbsp light and mild olive oil for frying 8 sticks of lemongrass 500g monkfish tail, skinned and boned 2 red peppers, cut into pieces 8 bay leaves 2 lemons, grated zest and juice 1 tbsp light and mild olive oil
Reserve 15ml of the orange juice and add remainder to the pan along with the watercress. Cook briefly until the watercress has wilted. Season well and remove the cloves. 2 Cut and soak the gelatine leaves with the reserved orange juice and follow pack instructions to melt. Whiz leek and watercress mixture with the melted gelatine and creme fraiche until smooth. Spoon between six mini Hovis-style sins or individual ramekins lined with cling film. Chill until set. 3 Prepare tomato layer. Preheat oven to 220°c and roast the red pepper drizzled with the oil until soft. Peel away skin. Cut and soak the gelatine leaves with 15ml of tomato juice and melt as above. Combine with the remaining tomato juice, roasted pepper and seasonings. 4 Whiz until smooth and pour over the set leek layer. Chill terrines until set. Turn out onto individual plates and peel away cling film just before serving.
METHOD 1 Pat grated potato with kitchen paper to remove excess moisture. Microwave for five minutes with the butter in a covered bowl. Add the shredded leek and garlic and cook for a further three minutes. Season well and bind together with the egg. Chill until ready to cook. 2 Cut the monkfish into large cubes and thread onto the lemongrass skewers along with the bay leaf and red pepper. Place in a container and drizzle with the lemon juice and olive oil. Cover and chill until ready to cook. 3 To cook rösti shape into 8 x 8cm rounds using a pastry cutter and shallow fry over a very gentle heat for ten minutes on each side until crisp and golden, turning carefully with a fish slice. Grill marinated kebabs for 6-8 minutes under a hot grill turning halfway through cooking. Serve kebabs on top of the rosti along with a mixed leaf salad.
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> flavour fork to fork
fork to fork I
f you love food you’re probably interested in where it comes from and how it’s grown. Cooking at home from ingredients grown locally and picked freshly is a joy and a pleasure and what better way to spend a Sunday afternoon that sitting down with friends to a meal focused on what is really in season? This is the first of a short quarterly column keeping you in touch with what is being sown, harvested, picked or slaughtered here at White Row Farm with a recipe inspired from those ingredients. We hope it makes you want to pick up your fork – garden or kitchen version! March is the big month for planting. As the soil starts to warm and the days start to grow longer it is time to get out and start planting in earnest. Many of the seeds have been sprouting already, having been planted in January in the poly tunnels where they can remain protected from the late frosts and strong
winds that threaten their survival. We’ll plant them out this month but will have to keep them covered in fleece to keep the most persistent bugs away and stop the winds from beating them to a pulp. In will go the carrots, parsnips, cabbages, cauliflowers, calabrese, lettuces, beetroot, broad beans and potatoes. We’ve already planted out an early potato variety called Maris Baird. New season’s lamb becomes available from around now. Slightly less flavoursome than later season, it is still a joy to have and perfect for roasting with garlic and rosemary and serving outdoors. Coming out of the fields in plenty at the moment are purple sprouting and white sprouting, kale, leeks and parsnips. Try the recipe (right) to really add a ‘wow’ factor to that most ubiquitous of vegetables, the leek.
Steve Tucker is farmer and owner at White Row Farm, Beckington www.whiterowcountryfoods.com
Rolled breast of new season lamb with braised leeks SERVES 2 INGREDIENTS 1 breast of lamb (pretty cheap from most butchers) 1 stick of black pudding, peeled 1 bulb of garlic Sprig of rosemary 1 carrot, roughly chopped 1 onion 2 leeks, trimmed and washed Glass of white wine 20g butter Sprig of thyme Salt & pepper to taste METHOD 1 Pre heat the oven to 140°C. Place the black pudding in the centre of the breast of lamb and roll it up so the pudding stays in the centre. Tie it up with string three or four times so it looks like a roasting joint. 2 Place the carrot, onion, garlic and rosemary into a roasting tray and season well. Cover with tin foil and roast for about 45 minutes. Meanwhile cut the leeks in half lengthways. Melt the butter and thyme in a pan and add the leeks and white wine. Cover the pan and allow to simmer for half an hour. 3 Take out the lamb and add a pint of water, then re-cover with foil and cook for another two hours. Take out and then rest for a further 20 minutes. Slice into thick wedges and serve with leeks and some of the cooking juices. That whole dish should not cost more than about £6.
©James Griffith, Head Chef, White Row Farm www.whiterowcountryfoods.com
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JON THORNER’S
the
BUTCHER’S
tip
Jon Thorner is the founder of Jon Thorner’s Ltd and is South West Chairman of the Q Guild of Butchers association. The awardwinning businessman has a farm shop near Shepton Mallet, five butchery counters across the South West and makes fantastic pies... Jon Thorner’s Bridge Farm Shop Pylle Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA 01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk Twitter: @JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorner’s
Leg of Lamb
British lamb is acknowledged as some of the best in the world and new-season lamb is a true herald of spring. At this time of year the flavour is at its most delicate and as the season progresses, the flavour gradually develops. When choosing lamb look for firm, pinkish meat with creamy white fat. There has also been a resurgence of hogget and mutton over recent years – lambs kept on farms beyond a year old become ‘hogget’ and over two years become ‘mutton’. The meat from both of these has a more pronounced flavour and requires slower cooking to ensure tenderness. Sourcing local lamb from your butcher or farmers’ market allows you to ask questions about its provenance and if you like it, you know you’ll be able to get the same quality product again and again – most supermarkets will just source lamb wherever they can, including New Zealand. New Zealand and British lamb are actually both exceptional quality – our similar climates and pastures are what makes such great lamb – but why buy your lamb from 10,000 miles away, when quality lamb is produced on your doorstep? We source our lamb from farms based between Taunton and Tiverton, and also from Tom Wheeler in Beckington. Spring lamb will be available at all Jon Thorner’s butchery counters from mid-March.
Rack of Lamb
One of my favourite cuts of lamb is rack of lamb, and this is my tried and tested recipe. SERVES 2 INGREDIENTS 600g rack of lamb, fully trimmed (ask your butcher to do this) Dijon mustard 100g breadcrumbs Fresh rosemary METHOD 1 Pre-heat your oven to 200°C. In a hot pan, sear the meat on all sides. Leave it aside to cool slightly, mix the breadcrumbs with finely-chopped rosemary and season with salt and pepper. 2 Cover the meat with a generous layer of Dijon mustard. Gently press the breadcrumb mix on top of the mustard, until you have a decent crust. Place in the oven for 20 minutes to serve the lamb pink or up to 30 minutes for well done.
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Elizabeth Mytton discovers a gem on the edge of Bath, offering relaxed, modern dining with a warm atmosphere...
one beaufort W
ith an abundance of cafes, bistros and formal restaurants, serving a wide variety of English and international menus, Bath is an easy place to dine in. Tourists flock to popular landmarks, eating their own body weight in traditional fare such as Cornish pasties and fish and chips, while mingling with locals who frequent the many dining bars and eateries within a relatively small district. Which is why One Beaufort, just off London Road in the Grosvenor district of Bath, is a welcome departure from what some regard as a saturated city centre. The simple exterior of One Beaufort betrays the warmth within, and not just from the delightful modern décor, complete with Beatles images from a local artist and what seemed like a hundred candles. The welcome from Kevin Walters, the co-owner, along with Bridgette, who was to be our waitress for the evening, was genuine and disarming. There was a sense of homeliness, an ambience helped by the low lighting (“We like to use the dimmers – we find it helps atmosphere!” quipped Kevin) but really carried by the great customer service that ensures that all customers, whether dining or simply taking a drink in the bar, feel valued and at ease. We were seated in the rear of the restaurant, next to the fireplace, which gave us a great open view of the dining room and bar, which was full of customers from the local area. This sense of being invested in the community is something the owners are proud of – when Kevin along with his business partner, chef Christophe Lacroix, took ownership
of the restaurant 16 months ago, they were aware of the venue’s positional qualities. “We attract a wide clientele from London Road, and some of the nearby communities,” commented Kevin, reflecting on their customer base. “We find that people like the fact that there is a quality venue in their own neighbourhood, so they don’t have to go into town for a decent meal, where it can be overrun with drinkers and party-goers on a weekend. We have regular diners, but also those who come for that special occasion or treat. Others treat our bar as their local pub. All are welcome.” On perusing the menu, I decided to start with the Koledake beef with noodle salad. This delicately-flavoured dish was small and perfectly formed, in contrast to the huge starter enjoyed by my partner – his plate of scallops with bacon and chorizo, served on a piece of grey slate was sumptuous, spicy and something else! We were both pleased with our choices, and rubbed our hands as we waited on course number two. As a fan of simple food, I went for the chicken stuffed with thyme and pork, from the wide selection of specials on offer. This came beautifully presented with a side of parsnip mash, garnished with a battered onion ring. I took my time – this dish had to be savoured slowly. It was beyond delicious. My partner opted for the rump of beef, with peppercorn sauce. This was another simple dish given the One Beaufort treatment – the beef (supplied by Ruby and White in Bristol) was flavoursome and tender, complemented by house
chips and salad. The portion was very generous and served rare as requested. This was followed by the pear tart tatin, with chocolate sauce and sorbet. Sweet and light, it was the perfect end to an ample supper. As for me, I choose the profiteroles. Is it clichéd to talk of chocolate heaven? This was one of the best desserts I’ve had in a very long time. When we first arrived, the restaurant had a couple of customers enjoying a drink, and a few others taking advantage of the “calm before the storm” for an early evening meal. By the end of the night, the restaurant was buzzing with couples and small parties, made up of 30, 40 and 50 somethings, and a couple raucous elderly diners! The air was jovial, buoyed by the lively soundrack playing in the background. We managed to speak to Christophe before leaving, to complement him on his restaurant and creative menu. He thanked us for our custom and asked if we would return. Through my chocolate-induced high, I managed to smile and say that we most certainly would. We left the restaurant well-fed and satisfied, extremely pleased with both the food and the service. One Beaufort is worth a trip out of town.
One Beaufort London Road Bath BA1 6QB 01225 334050 www.onebeaufort.com
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I choose the profiteroles. Is it clichÊd to talk of chocolate heaven? This was one of the best desserts I’ve had in a very long time.
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Flav_47_SW_Chef Profile_Jack in The Green.indd 18
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> flavour chef profile
chef profile Name: Matt Mason Age: 40... just Where from: Devon born and bred Head chefs at: The Jack in The Green
Like most teenage boys I wanted to be a professional football player and had reasonable success at county level but simply wasn’t good enough to earn a living from it, so off to catering college I went. That led me to begin work under the tutorage of Shaun Hill at Gidleigh Park, where I worked my way around the kitchen until, in June of 1995, I started here at The Jack in the Green and the rest, well is history... Running a busy kitchen is always throwing new challenges our way, so providing we have surrounded ourselves with the right type of people then our enthusiasm and desire to do the best job we can will always shine through, even on the toughest of long days. We spent over 300k on a major refurbishment three years ago and with that we built a bespoke, brand new kitchen, kitted out with some great equipment that has given us a platform to evolve and to continue to push the perimeters in which we work and plan menus.
The Jack In The Green Rockbeare Nr Exeter Devon EX5 2EE 01404 822240 www.jackinthegreen.uk.com
The single most important thing that we never underestimate the value of is experiencing what other restaurants are doing, whether it be a fine dining restaurant in London or a quiet country pub in Devon. However, we rely heavily on our suppliers to provide us with the very best produce – that, of course, is paramount to what we do. There simply isn’t time for complacency. If a customer
tells you they don’t like something you have to respond immediately. If we aren’t reaching targets then the boss is in no uncertain terms going to let us know about it. Being such a big pub we have to be a lot of different things to a lot of people, and juggling all those hats can sometimes be a challenge. But we have great kitchen staff and we are in the best part of the world for produce – second-to-none I believe. I love working with the fine seafood that our region has to offer, with some truly fabulous and unique suppliers. I love to prep it as much as I like to cook it. Having been here for 16 years, The Jack in the Green is very much part of my soul and we will continue to strive to be the best we can, along the way making it as truly memorable and enjoyable a dining experience for as many diners as possible. As for wine matching, I know from experience how much food can benefit from an appropriate accompanying wine flight. I have been known to splash out on a white burgundy or two!
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Spring into
EASTER Delve into our Easter feature where you will find chocolate, cakes, recipes, great places to eat and, most importantly, flavours to inspire as we launch into spring...
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Flavour – Spring into Easter
James Chocolates James Hutchins, owner of James Chocolates, began hand-making chocolates in 1995 when he was working at a deli in Bristol where in the evenings he began to blend his own creations at home. He’d previously studied biology and worked as a DJ, so this was a chance to use his experimenting and mixing skills to the full! As well as traditional varieties such as mint, Champagne and caramel sit alongside strawberry and pepper, vanilla and sea salt and orange and cardamom James Chocolates have an abundance of Easter treats for you to feast on. And the one to try has to be the ‘Easter Firecracker Egg!’ Ecuadorian dark chocolate with ancho chilli and popping candy combine spectacularly with a hand-topped explosion of pink peppercorns, white chocolate and edible glitter for a unique adult gift. Having already made 3kg white chocolate sheep for John Lewis, James Chocolates are at the cutting edge of design, taste and more than anything, fun. From truffles, bars and discs to miniature piglets, cows and fish, James Chocolates’ range is as appealing to the eye as it is to the taste buds.
James Chocolates Leighton Lane, Evercreech Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6LQ 01749 831330 www.jameschocolates.co .uk
20% OFF
FOR FLAVOUR READERS! Use code FLV0212 at online checkout (Valid until end of April)
They were also one of the first companies in England to develop chilli chocolate, and now have lots of variations like sweet Thai chilli, chilli honeycomb and chilli firecracker! James Chocolates are available from good delis, farm shops and food stores nationwide.
WIN! A collection of James’ Easter goodies worth £75, including a selection of eggs and chocolate treats to appeal to the whole family. The draw will take place on March 30 and one winner will be sent the prize in time for Easter. To enter, email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with James Chocolates in the subject header and full contact details in the body of the email. Good luck!
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Flavour – Spring into Easter
The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy Barbora Stiess, from The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy, Clifton, has teamed-up with flavour to bring you a couple of simple, yet truly delicious recipes to brighten up your entry into spring... Easter is a great time to cook for your friends and family. Try either a Czech dish that makes a fabulous starter (or even an accompaniment), or eggs and soldiers – with a twist!
The Devilled Egg Latchford House 8 Downfield Road, Clifto n Bristol BS8 2TH 0117 9732 823 www.thedevilledegg.com
Eggs and soldiers INGREDIENTS 2 medium organic eggs per person, at room temperature (so they don’t crack in the hot water) Bunch of asparagus A few slices of Parma ham METHOD Boil the eggs for exactly 4 minutes. Pour a little oil onto a hot pan and add the asparagus with a pinch of salt and fry for 4-5 minutes. Wrap a few of the asparagus spears in the Parma ham. Serve with the eggs for dipping (for extra indulgence, drizzle the asparagus with a little truffle oil).
My Mum’s Spring Terrine INGREDIENTS 1 small baguette
A pinch of grated nutmeg Salt and pepper
2 eggs, separated Milk 200g ham hock, cooked and cut into 1cm cubes A large bunch of chopped nettles, parsley and leek 2 tbsps of finely-chopped gherkins and shallots 1 tbsp of Dijon mustard
METHOD Tear the baguette into bite-sized pieces and moisten with a few tablespoons of milk. Add the egg yolks. Mix in the herbs, leeks, nutmeg, mustard, gherkins and shallots and season. Whisk the egg whites into stiff peaks and gently fold in. Bake at 170°C in a greased terrine ramekin until golden brown (approximately 40 minutes).
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Flavour – Spring into Easter
Clifton Cakes
The Foxham Inn
Indulge your passion for chocolate on one of Clifton Cakes’ unique chocolate workshops with Frances Cooley, herself trained in the art of truffle making and chocolate sculpture.
The Foxham Inn has been creating a great deal of excitement with their newly-extended and refurbished restaurant, with open kitchen and two new en-suite bedrooms.
The courses will help you create your own gorgeous rich chocolates, truffles, shoes and many more novelties. No matter who you need to buy for this Easter, you’ll find the perfect gift for them in an exciting array of chocolate Easter gifts; discover the striking new eggs for those who like theirs wildly stylish!
Since opening the Restaurant in November, the open kitchen has created a great atmosphere and focal point for customers to enjoy from the light, airy and spacious dining area. It’s a great place to enjoy top-quality food and drink in a relaxed atmosphere. As well as lunch and dinner, the restaurant is also a fantastic venue for gourmet dinners, conferences and meetings as well as weddings and other family get together.
01249 740665 www.thefoxhaminn.co.uk
0117 9277 693 www.cliftoncakes.co.uk
The Smoking Dog With spring arriving and the weather warming, The Smoking Dog is the perfect place to spend the lighter evenings. Hidden away to the rear of this charming pub is a delightful 54-seat enclosed garden with heaters and lighting.
The Smoking Dog 62 High Street Malmesbury SN16 9AT 01666 825823
Conveniently situated along Malmesbury high street, this dog- and family-friendly pub serves home-cooked food from noon every day of the week using the freshest ingredients you can choose, from pan-fried cockles and bacon or garlic wild mushrooms to start. Monkfish tail wrapped in prosciutto ham, slow roasted belly of pork or the popular sausage and mash as a main are further tasty selections – you won’t be disappointed with your choice. The Smoking Dog is holding its famous Beer and Sausage Festival from Thursday 31st May to Tuesday 5th June. Everyone is welcome to come and enjoy 35 different real ales, five traditional scrumpy ciders and over 15 different flavoured sausages!
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Flavour – Spring into Easter
Cocoa Bee This Easter why not treat your loved ones with something different than the usual Easter eggs? The Cocoa Bee range of Easter chocolates are made with the highest quality Belgian chocolate and are almost too adorable to eat. In addition to the scrumptious chocolates, the Cocoa Bee range of fabulous gifts offers fun, longer-lasting gifts! Who could not fall in love with the ever so soft and cuddly
www.cocoa-bee.co.uk
Clarence Chicken, who comes complete with delicious foiled mini eggs! Flavour readers can benefit from an exclusive 10 per cent discount on all orders as well as a free gift of foiled mini eggs with every order. Simply enter EAST01 at checkout to receive this discount. Visit the website for all your Easter gifts!
Meg Rivers Meg Rivers Simnel Treats! These top-tasting Simnel Cakes from Meg Rivers Artisan Bakery are the perfect offerings for your Easter get-togethers or send them as Easter gifts for friends and family! For all orders placed by flavour readers before April 3, you’ll also receive a free pack of original Meg Rivers Shortbreads worth £6!
Maison Loulou Chocolates Maison Loulou produce handmade, scrumptious chocolates from just outside Bristol. Made with organic Somerset cream and natural infusions, experience a variety of flavours including ginger and fennel, sea salted caramel and jasmine flower. Each month there is a special flavour to keep your taste buds tantalised! You can find Maison Loulou at Bristol’s Tobacco Factory market, Harbourside market, online and also Radford Mill Farm Shop. They will also be at Bristol’s Chocolate Festival Easter weekend.
Choose from large (£22), standard (£12) or new six mini Simnel pack (£15) plus £6 P&P. Order online at www.megrivers.co.uk or by phone on 01608 682858 quoting ‘FLAVOUREASTER’.
www.megrivers.co.uk Last order date for Easter Tues 3rd April, last delivery date Thursday 5th April
MULU Chocolate www.muluchocolate.co.uk
Maison Loulou Chocolates 07840 357773 www.maisonloulouchocolates.co.uk
If you dare to be a little different this Easter, why not give MULU Raw Chocolate Buttons a whirl for the little people in your life? Handcrafted in Dartington, Devon, MULU Raw Chocolate Buttons are created with organic, ethically traded ingredients. And, with the health and happiness of children in mind, they are free from potential allergens such as soya, gluten and dairy and all packaging is recycled, recyclable or biodegradable, to protect the planet for future generations!
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Flavour – Spring into Easter
In the Pink Cookery School Kerry Evans, from In the Pink Cookery School, Bath, has provided flavour with one of her favourite recipes, ideal for those on the go during Easter…
In the Pink Cookery Sc hool 01225 743386 www.inthepinkcookery .co.uk
Carrot and ginger muffins This cake is deliciously moist and packed full of flavour Using quinoa flour, this is a high-protein snack that keeps you fuller for longer, with the nuts adding extra protein. The carrots add essential fibre to make this all-in-all a scrummy cake that will leave you licking your lips but totally satisfied. INGREDIENTS 225g quinoa flour (available from whole food stores) 1 level tsp bicarbonate of soda 2 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground cinnamon 2 large carrots, grated
150ml light olive oil 80ml maple syrup 100g stem ginger in syrup, drained and finely chopped 100g walnuts, roughly chopped 2 large free-range eggs
METHOD Pre heat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2. Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda, ginger and cinnamon into a mixing bowl. Add the grated carrot, stem ginger and nuts. Measure out the oil and maple syrup then beat in the eggs. Add this to the dried ingredients and mix well. Poor mixture into a lined cake tin and cook for 25-30 minutes or until the cake no longer wobbles (or a knife tip placed in the centre of the cake comes out clean). Leave to cool on a wire rack then store in an airtight container.
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Flavour – Spring into Easter
The Olive Tree
The Olive Tree Russel Street Bath BA1 2QF
Part of The Queensberry Hotel, Bath, The Olive Tree Restaurant uses the beautiful surrounding area to source its fresh fruit and vegetables and creates a frequently changing menu of beautiful, fresh, seasonal dishes.
01225 447928 www.olivetreebath.co.uk
Sample them at a thrillingly-priced lunch, or linger longer over dinner. But do sample them. The Olive Tree has provided flavour with a breathtaking early-spring dish that combines crunch and sizzles with spicy heat and fuller, smokey flavours, and it’s as healthy as it is delicious.
Hot smoked tofu with morels, spring greens and toasted pumpkin seeds INGREDIENTS 250g home-smoked tofu (firm) Rice flour for dusting Oil for frying Large knob of root ginger sliced into
fine strips
1 red chilli, finely shredded 2 spring onions, finely sliced 2 shallots, sliced into fine rings 150g purple sprouting broccoli
For the dressin g
2 tbsp sesame oil
5 fresh morel mushrooms, well clean
INGREDIENT S 2 tbsps Miso pa ste (3 teaspoons miso paste + 3 teasp oons hot water) 1 tsp soy sauce
Spring greens
1 tbsp water
2 tbsp mirin 1 tbsp toasted pumpkin seeds ed
METHOD in a wok 1. Dust the tofu in flour. Heat 2cm oil and lift out. crisp until tofu the fry hot, until very ginger, the add and Tip out all but 1/2 tbsp oil ns and onio g sprin and ts shallo , chilli s, mushroom stir-fry quickly, with a splash 2. Add the spring greens and broccoli rice vinegar, of water to help steam. Then add the tofu. the with mix and mirin and oil sesame and serve 3. Finish with toasted pumpkin seeds
1/2 tsp sesame
oil
1/2 tsp sugar 1 tbsp grapesee
d oil METHOD Mix the miso, soy sauce, ging er, water, sesame oi l and sugar. Slow ly dr izzle in the oi l while whiskin g to finish the dressin g.
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Flavour – Spring into Easter
Farrells
A David
IRISH ITALIAN RESTAURANT
A David & Co Ltd is a foodservice company that has been supplying the catering industry in and around Bristol, Bath and the South West for over 50 years. Essentially, this a family-run business with a passion for providing the highest levels of customer service. Customers include two Michelin star restaurants and 5-star country hotels and, whether you are a hospital, school, fine dining restaurant, care home or a public house, A David have have something to suit your needs.
Just off the main high street in Keynsham, Farrells Irish Italian Restaurant is a hidden gem that sources its produce from the town and the surrounding area. Spring is in the air and, with Easter coming, local lamb is sure to be on the menu, along with locally sourced vegetables from the Severn Project. Farrells also have an excellent lunch menu with a main course priced at just £7.50 and, as the milder weather arrives, why not dine outside on the terrace.
www.adavid.co.uk
SUNDAY
www.farrellsrestaurant.co.uk
LUNCH Enjoy Sunday Lunch at The Park this Spring. The Park, the Michelin Star restaurant at Lucknam Park. Have a stroll through our stunning 500 acres estate, unwind with a drink in our library, savour our award winning cuisine. Memories to dine out on. 3 courses £39 including VAT, menu choice and of course the traditional roast. To make your reservation please call Tel: 01225 742 777 Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, Colerne, Chippenham, Wiltshire SN14 8AZ Tel +44 (0)1225 742777 reservations@lucknampark.co.uk www.lucknampark.co.uk
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Flavour’s latest columnist Jack Stein brings us the best from the sea...
Jack Stein was born in Cornwall and is the middle son of three boys to celebrated chef Rick Stein. He began his career as a kitchen porter during school holidays in The Seafood Restaurant kitchen. At 16 he moved to front of house where he remained throughout his education. Jack completed a BSc in Psychology and an MA in Ancient History at Cardiff University. In 2003, he returned to The Seafood Restaurant as commis chef then after two years, took up the position of sous chef at Rick Stein’s Café for another year. Following this, Jack then went on to Paris to do a stage at La Régalade, which ignited a passion for travel and a period of stage work all over the world. During this time, Jack travelled to Australia for an extended stay at Tetsuya’s in Sydney, before exploring the Far East and Japan. On his return to Padstow, he re-entered The Seafood Restaurant as sous chef before moving on to a tournant role across the whole company. He is currently the head of development for the company, leading the installation and introduction of a development kitchen for the business, where new recipes and ingredients will be tested. Follow Jack on Twitter @Jackstein 28
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Image ©David Griffen.
Recipe ©Jack Stein
08/03/2012 18:07
> flavour out of the ocean
Jack on herring Growing up, herring always had a place on our Sunday breakfast table as the ‘ubiquitous’ kipper. I regard this as one of the finest fish caught off the British Isles and in the winter and early spring Cornish herring are at their best. What I love is the appearance; they exude beauty with their sleek silvery dart-like profile. This seems something that a lot of oily fish have, from the striped mackerel to the sardine. Secondly, I love their taste. The oily flesh and soft skin provide a perfect base ingredient to build on. Finally and very importantly, they are plentiful
around the Cornish coast and, as a result, relatively inexpensive.
online and a great ingredient for adding depth to a variety of dishes.
Oily fish always pair well with acidity; the two balance themselves leaving a well-rounded flavour. This acidity also helps to preserve the fish, which is why you commonly see them pickled in Scandinavian dishes such as rollmops. With this dish, I have made a pickling liquor which has a hint of savoury smokiness from the Japanese dashi granules – a tip of the hat to the kipper. These are not essential, but relatively easy to find in good supermarkets or
The fish is briefly salted and pickled to add flavour and firm up the flesh and the liquor is reserved, flavoured, heated and used for the slaw. The balance works really well and is very simple, a nice finishing touch are the fried capers for textural contrast. It’s popular to speak of herring’s health benefits, I grew up eating them and I seem to be fairly well adjusted, so take from that what you will!
Pan fried herring fillets, hot pickled slaw and fried capers Serves 2 as a starter Ingredients
Method
4 herring fillets 100ml rice wine or white wine vinegar 25ml water ½ tsp dashi granules (optional) 1 tbsp vegetable oil 50g carrot, finely sliced 25g shallot, finely sliced 2 juniper berries 2 black peppercorns 1 star anise A sprig of thyme Small pinch of chilli Knob of butter 1 tsp capers A few springs of chervil Salt to taste
1 Salt the flesh side of the herring and leave for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, create the pickling liquid by combining the vinegar, water and dashi granules in a pan and warm gently over a low heat. 2 Wash the salt off the herring and lay it on a plate, skin side up and pour over the pickling liquid, so that it covers the flesh side. Leave to pickle for 10 minutes, then remove from the pickling liquid and pat dry, reserving the liquid. 3 Heat the vegetable oil in a pan and fry the capers until crispy. Leave to dry on kitchen paper.
4 For the slaw, cut the carrot and shallot into thin strips and place in a pan with the juniper berries, peppercorns, star anise, thyme, chilli and a good pinch of salt. Pour the reserved pickling liquid over the slaw, bring to the boil and take off the heat. 5 Take the herring fillets and fry them skin side down on a moderate heat for 1½–2 minutes, add a knob of butter to finish. 6 Once cooked, assemble with some of the warm pickled slaw, the fillets of herring, capers and a few sprigs of chervil. Deglaze the pan with some of the pickling liquor, reduce briefly and use to sauce the plate.
Image ©Robert Sroga
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08/03/2012 18:07
got your goat?
BY MEGAN OWEN
GOAT MEAT CONSUMPTION IS ON THE RISE – AND WE’RE NOT KIDDING...
W
hen you hear about goats, they tend to be a feature of jokes, puns or petting zoos rather than a regular addition to our dinner plates. As a more common feature at farmers’ markets in the UK however, the demand for goat meat on a local and regional scale is in fact outweighing supply.
textures of goat to beef and lamb. What’s more, goat meat also offers a number of excellent health benefits when compared to other meats, for as well as being very high in protein and a fantastic source of iron, goat meat also contains less saturated fat and lower cholesterol levels than beef, pork, lamb and even chicken – fantastic, eh?
As a staple food for Muslim diets and a number of countries in Africa, Asia and South America, goat actually makes up more than 60 per cent of the world’s red meat consumption. Despite the increasing demand however, many UK consumers may need convincing to feel comfortable about eating the animal on a regular basis, as although other goat produce, including wool, milk and cheese, is readily available, it seems a stigma continues to surround the consumption of goat meat.
If you are now feeling inspired to give goat a try (which may also be sold as chevon or cabrito to sound more appealing), why don’t you start by subtly substituting your normal mince in bolognese for goat mince? If you are more daring, you could try a goat stew, or take inspiration from Indo-Caribbean cuisine and make a goat curry. Whatever you choose, treat the meat kindly. For best results you should cook it at a low temperature to prevent the meat from drying out and toughening, and where possible add moisture in the form of a marinade for a succulent result. In terms of flavour, opt for ingredients you confidently use with lamb, such as mint – although herbs such as rosemary, thyme, basil or oregano beautifully enhance the flavour of the meat too.
Whatever the deterrent, the barrier identified is not unique to the UK, and producers worldwide are battling to overcome the perception of goat meat. In general, however, the reluctance to try goat meat should be easily overcome by the assimilations people make with the flavour and
ENJOY!
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08/03/2012 21:57
Capra Products Capra Products is one of the UK’s few producers of goat meat. All the animals are naturally reared and no chemicals or pesticides are used on the pastures. For a long time now it has been known to people that goat meat is one of the healthiest meats out there. Goat is classified as a red meat, but is leaner and contains less cholesterol and fat than both lamb and beef. It therefore requires a low heat and slow cooking to preserve its beautiful tenderness and moisture.
Riverside Goats Cheese Delicious Cheese From Deepest Devon! Riverside Goats Cheese is an organically-managed Mid-Devon smallholding where the goats browse freely over eight acres of south-facing pasture. The cheeses are made with unpasteurised milk and are suitable for vegetarians. They have a mature, hard cheese with a complex lingering flavour and a milder, hard cheese with a lighter, zesty flavour. The white, soft cheeses are freshly flavoured either with herbs, garlic or come plain.
Call us: 01363 866 434 www.capraproducts.co.uk
Caprine Capers Luxury handmade chocolates and fudges Devilishly good... Caprine Capers have a small herd of milking goats and, with the surplus milk, they started producing cream, butter and eventually sweets for their own enjoyment and then tried it out on their friends. The reaction was so good they decided to let the public try it as well.
They now have their own website to offer chocolates to people who are unable to see them around Devon, offering a mail order service.
Caprine Capers was formed to benefit from the natural products of the Yonderwood goat herd. The confectionery is handmade from their goats’ milk, which has many benefits, especially for those people who are lactose intolerant.
www.riversidegoatscheese.co.uk
Nibbles Cheese Shop is Bath’s Oldest Cheesemongers Established for over 25 Years, supplying the public and trade
Traditional British & Continental Cheeses
As a partnership, Stephane and Paul offer a friendly, informative and relaxed atmosphere in which to buy over 90 different varieties of cheese from locally-sourced Cheddars, continental and homegrown favourites. Top this all off with English bacon sliced on the premises, Sandridge Farm sausages, local ciders, organic fruit wines, chutneys and a French section which includes confit de canard, cassoulet, pâté, fish soup and terrines. We also have many special offers, lots of them half price.
COMING IN EARLY 2012 Cheese delivered direct from our online cheese shop
Call us: 01805 622924 www.caprinecapers.talktalk.net
Flav_47_SW_Goat_Need iStock.indd 31
53 Guildhall Market, Bath BA2 4AW 01225 460213 contact@nibblescheese.com Opening Hours: 8.30am – 5.00pm Mon-Fri and 8.30am – 5.30pm Sat
08/03/2012 21:58
Pak Butchers Pak Butchers, the South West’s premier halal meat provider and champion purveyor of goat meat, deliver cuts full of flavour and great to use as a roast or as a quick meal – particularly the chops – or as a warming casserole, but best of all, in a curry!
Pak Butchers Goat Korma METHOD
INGREDIENTS ½ tsp saffron
½ tsp cumin seeds
3-4 tbsp boiling water
300ml/10fl.oz. water
50g/2oz unsalted cashew nuts
1 large onion, sliced
3 green chillies
1 tsp salt
25g/1oz fresh ginger, chopped
300ml/10 fl.oz. natural yoghurt
2.5cm/1 inch cinnamon stick ½ tsp cardamom seeds
450g/1lb lean goat meat (leg or shoulder) cut into 2.5cm/1 inch cubes
6 cloves, lightly crushed
1 tbsp freshly chopped coriander
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tsp lemon juice
2 tsp ground coriander
Fresh coriander to garnish
Call us: 01179 518057 Visit us: www.pakbutchers.co.uk
1 Place the saffron in a small bowl and pour the boiling water over it. Allow to infuse for 10 minutes. 2 Place the cashew nuts, chilies, ginger, cinnamon, cardamoms, cloves, garlic, coriander and cumin seeds in a food processor or liquidiser together with 300ml/10fl. oz of water and blend for two minutes until you have a smooth purée. 3 Heat the oil in a large pan, add the onions and fry until golden brown. Add the purée mixture, salt and yogurt and cook gently for five minutes, stirring frequently. 4 Raise the heat, then add the goat meat, stirring well to ensure the pieces are well coated. Now add the saffron together with the water in which it has been soaking, stir well then partially cover and continue to cook for 30 minutes stirring from time to time. 5 Add one tablespoon of freshly-chopped coriander, mix well, re-cover and cook for a further 10 minutes, until the goat meat is tender. 6 To serve – transfer to a warmed serving dish, sprinkle the lemon juice over the meat and garnish with freshly chopped coriander. Serve hot.
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08/03/2012 22:31
Supper made ‘bags’ easier for you Supperlicious is an exciting new cooking concept that aims to take the stress and worry out of meal times. The knowledgeable team plan your weekly suppers in their kitchen and take the hassle out of shopping for ingredients that can make planning and preparing suppers a real headache. Supperlicious supply easy-to-follow chef-designed recipes along with a bag of ingredients to cook. They deliver bi-weekly supper bags that are based on two or four adult portions and can be taken as a three- or five-day bag option. Additional homemade cake bags and fruit bags can also be added. Their approach is to follow a seasonal buying pattern with an emphasis on reducing waste, while ingredients are sourced from a wealth of fantastic local suppliers in Somerset. Customers are particularly impressed with the quality of the meat, fish and poultry compared with what they can buy at their local supermarkets. Co-founders Emma Osborne and Sam Oliphant have seven children between them and know firsthand the challenges of feeding families. Supperlicious is the next best thing to having your own personal chef with easy-to-follow recipes. ‘Chef tips’ and ‘kids tips’ tailor your recipes to suit your requirements. Supperlicious’ own research has shown that most families tend to cook the same meals on rotation week in
Flav_47_SW_Supperlicious.indd 33
and week out, so they have made it a mission to introduce more variety into the weekly menu to ensure everyone is eating a wider variety of healthy foods. With more women working and juggling their families, Supperlicious is here to help you! Based in Portishead, they will deliver right to your front door or office in Bristol and Bath and are looking to expand to cover a wider area very soon.
Supperlicious Unit 2 Kestrel Court Harbour Road Portishead Bristol BS20 7AN 01275 390686 kitchen@supperlicious.co.uk www.supperlicious.co.uk
EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER* 25% OFF A SUPPERLICIOUS SUPPER BAG flavour magazine has teamed up with Supperlicious to offer readers 25 per cent off their first Supperlicious Supper Bag. To order, visit www.supperlicious.co.uk and quote FLAV312 at the checkout. Terms and conditions apply. *Orders must be received before 31st March 2012 for the offer to apply. Offer applies to new customers only and only valid for one purchase.
08/03/2012 18:27
le M A Z O T brasserie
at Whatley Manor introduces ‘Fondue Plausch’ a series of authentic Swiss Cheese Fondue evenings £25 per person includes a traditional Swiss cheese fondue made with a blend of emmental, gruyère and vacherin cheese, a dessert of choice and a glass of wine.
Tuesday 13th March and Tuesday 27th March Tuesday 10th April and Tuesday 24th April Call 01666 822 888 or email reservations@whatleymanor.com to make a reservation. The Swiss Cheese Fondue evening must be pre-booked.
Whatley Manor Hotel & Spa Easton Grey Malmesbury Wiltshire SN16 0RB www.whatleymanor.com
Flav_47_SW_Adverts.indd 4
08/03/2012 19:02
AN EVENING WITH BY NICK GREGORY
Although up in Clifton in a ‘work capacity’, the evening at The Muset by Ronnie, with a wine tasting hosted by Kirsty Armstrong of Bibendum and followed by a meal cooked by Ron himself, never felt like ‘work’. And this is the beauty of The Muset by Ronnie and by the same token Ronnie’s of Thornbury. The food, which is wellregarded and with due reason, was fantastic – The Coq au Vin, normally a dish I’d pass over for other favourites, a culinary delight – and a pre-sampled Bibendum South African De Trafford Cabernet Sauvignon made it a meal to remember.
Call: 0117 973 7248 Visit: www.ronnies-restaurant.co.uk
Ronnie’s French onion soup to start playfully served from a tea pot, had flavour in bounds and , while the cassoulet that followed (set neatly within a preserving jar) set the taste buds flowing and was the red carpet leading into the main event – that Coq au Vin! Maybe I have just had a lifelong of poor experience when tucking into this French champion, I don’t know, but what’s certain is that from now on it will be
etched into the conscious as one to order. Ron allows the chicken to cook without boiling it to within a whisker of being vapourised, allowing the succulent meat to retain its texture and, more importantly, its taste. It really was a triumph! The tarte tatin to finish oozed finesse and rounded off an excellent evening at The Muset, the wine tasting making it informative, fun and creatively fresh – teaming-up perfectly with Ronnie’s gastronomic offerings. Ronnie is not stopping there, however, and his event evenings keep on coming. On Wednesday, April 11 at Ronnie’s of Thornbury and Thursday, April 12 at the Muset by Ronnie in Clifton, Rollo Gabb will be presenting wines from Journey’s End in Stellenboch, which will be matched and served with the dinner menu following the theme Cookery by Ronnie – The Elegance of Hearty British Cooking. This will be another evening not to miss…
WIN – DINNER FOR TWO For your chance to win dinner for two at the event, please email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with an ‘Evening with Ronnie’ in the subject header and your full contact details in the email body. Good luck!
Flav_47_SW_Ronnies.indd 35
08/03/2012 18:58
the
teen chef James Underdown – flavour’s 15-year-old budding chef – has been back in the kitchen this month to serve up another one of his mouthwatering treats.
So another month has passed and not much has really happened to me. Oh, but it was my birthday (I’ll be checking to see if the editor has changed my age in my intro) and I got to spend the night in London. While I was there I got treated to a lovely meal at Simpson’s, where of course, I had the roast beef. I finished off my catering term by preparing mille feuille in a cream tea-style with cucumber sandwiches and a cuppa. This month I’m going back to desserts with bread and butter pudding. I was actually taught to make this by the dinner ladies – as part of GCSE catering you get to go and work in the school canteen for a day. Anyway, this is one my mum always does when we have loads of people around as it is easy to do and can be prepared in advance. This is also one of my personal favourites as it’s very heartwarming on a cold winter’s night.
Bread and Butter Pudding INGREDIENTS Small fruit loaf 25g sugar 2 eggs 400ml cream/milk. I use more cream Grated lemon rind Nutmeg A sprinkling of raisins METHOD 1 Lightly grease an ovenproof dish. Butter the bread and layer. Sprinkle about ½ the sugar between each layer. 2 Beat eggs and mix in the remainder of the sugar. Bring cream to the boil and add the egg mixture and mix well. 3 Pour custard mix over the bread about 1 hour before cooking. Grate nutmeg on top. Cook at 170ºC for about 45 minutes.
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08/03/2012 22:24
the herb doctor
Max Drake is a practising medical herbalist at the Urban Fringe Dispensary, where he runs courses and workshops teaching how to use herbs safely and effectively, treat common ailments and stay healthy.
THIS H T MON
Vervain
V
ervain (Verbena officinalis) is a ragged little herb that often appears in dampish places near rivers and boggy meadows. It has been used since time immemorial for treating any number of nerve-related ailments, and its key signature is in recovery from illness or general exhaustion.
herbs, such as Chaste Berry (Vitex agnus castus) which seem to have an effect on hormone regulation. Vervain is used to help normalise thyroid hormones in some cases of both under- and overactive conditions. It is thought to affect the amount of TSH (Thyroid Stimulating Hormone) secreted by the pituitary gland.
Vervain was known by Germanic and Celtic tribes as being something of a cure-all. Although not so fashionable on these shores, it’s still widely used in France as an infusion, particularly as a digestif, where it is very good for problems associated with nerves and tension, such as cramping and constipation.
In general though, for most people, vervain can be used to help you wind down. It’s particularly good for people who think too much or work too hard, and who find it difficult to switch off. A cup of vervain tea or a teaspoon of the tincture in the evening will help you to relax into a trouble-free state of mind, allowing for a good night’s sleep. If you find yourself lying in bed at night with your brain still buzzing, and the same thoughts repeating
The plant is a member of the Verbenaceae family, which includes a few other popular
and repeating themselves, then this could be the one for you. It’s a very easy herb to cultivate from seed sown in spring – around about now. You can get the seeds from many online suppliers. If you’re into growing some more specific and adventurous herbs, then this is a great one to start with. You don’t need a particularly big patch to grow it on, but you would need to grow quite a few plants, densely planted together to get a worthwhile crop, as it is such a scrawny little herb. Harvest it when it flowers in June or July, collecting the whole plant, cutting it with scissors at the base and leaving the roots firmly in the ground and it will come back year after year. Tie the cut stems together with string and hang upside down in bunches to dry. 37
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08/03/2012 18:24
Flav_47_SW_Adverts.indd 3
08/03/2012 19:07
tea
flavour’s CUP OF
Flav_47_SW_Tea Feature.indd 39
08/03/2012 22:16
fflavour’ lavour’s
CUP OF
TEA FOR TWO?
tetea ea
Clipper have searched the world’s finest tea producers and handpicked an exclusive range of speciality teas, each one typical of its region. Beautifully presented in a delightfully-designed caddy, these superb teas will prove to be the ultimate discovery for fine tea lovers. Each region and estate bestows a unique flavour profile for the teas it produces and each one of Clipper’s Boutique teas comes with tasting notes and the story of the tea estate or region. The teas are either loose leaf or are packed in silky tea tents to let the teas perfectly infuse. These teas are limited as the leaves have all been handpicked at a certain moment in time.
www.clipper-teas.com
THE BATH PRIORY Few things can compare to a traditional afternoon tea served in elegant surroundings at a leisurely pace, just unwinding and savouring the moment. The Bath Priory is the perfect place to enjoy this quintessential English treat. Having recently won two Gold Awards from South West Tourism – Small Hotel of the Year and Taste of the West – you know this is going to be a very special indulgence, incorporating cakes created by the hotel’s pastry chefs, local produce and excellent teas.
The Bath Priory ♦ Weston Road Bath BA1 2XT ♦ 01225 331922 www.thebathpriory.co.uk
Flav_47_SW_Tea Feature.indd 40
ROSCOFF DELI Roscoff Deli is an Independent Italian owned cafe by Rosario Bavetta. Located centrally in one of Bath`s oldest streets, you can leave the hustle and bustle of Bath`s busy thoroughfares and retreat into one of the city`s most individual cafes. The tea supplier is DJ Miles from Minehead, and the café’s tea tasters taste dozens of teas every day, only selecting the very best they find. All the tea estates selected are members of the Ethical Tea Partnership, which ensures they have been sourced responsibly.
Roscoff Deli 18 Northumberland Place ♦ Bath ♦ BA1 5AR 01225 469590 ♦ www.roscoff.co.uk
08/03/2012 22:16
fflavour’ lavour’s
CUP OF
tetea ea
ENJOY A CUP OF PUKKA Cool, fresh spearmint, zesty, uplifting lemongrass and sumptuous, calming chamomile; these are just three of the incredible organic herbs you’ll find filling the brim of a cup of Pukka. For years, herbal teas have had the reputation of being insipid, wishy-washy hot drinks. They sometimes look good or smell good, but somehow they’re missing what matters the most: great taste. Translated from Hindi to mean ‘authentic’ and ‘top quality’, Pukka specialises in herbal teas blended with the finest organic herbs packed full of natural flavour. What’s more, each of Pukka’s 23 teas contains herbs specially selected for their therapeutic properties. From soothing marshmallow root to invigorating red ginseng, these are teas that naturally leave you feeling as incredible as they taste.
up to Morning Time, a zingy blend of rooibos, red ginseng and maca root and wind down with Night Time, oatstraw, lavender and chamomile or take time out with Love, a unique heartwarming infusion of rose, chamomile and lavender.
Whether you need to rev up, relax or simply reflect, there’s a Pukka tea for your every mood and moment. Wake
Bristol-based and now celebrating 10 years, Pukka teas have won a spectrum of awards including the coveted three Gold Star at
the Great Taste Awards in 2011 – the Oscars of the foodie world – and accolades from the Soil Association and Taste of the West. Where the herbal tea world was once monochrome, Pukka has brought it to life in glorious technicolour. Give yourself a break, put the kettle on and indulge your senses with a cuppa you know will be Pukka.
www.pukkaherbs.com
Flav_47_SW_Tea Feature.indd 41
08/03/2012 22:17
fflavour’ lavour’s
CUP OF
tetea ea
Teapigs’ Matcha contains two special amino acids that work together with matcha’s natural caffeine to give our bodies a gentle and sustained energy boost lasting four-six hours – no more afternoon slumps! This dynamic combination also reduces stress and helps you remain calm and focused – that’s why Buddhist monks have drunk matcha for centuries – just what you need when you’re about to meditate for many hours! When you drink regular green tea, once brewed, you throw away the leaves so it’s a bit like boiling spinach, throwing away the spinach and just drinking the water – you get some of the nutrients but you’re throwing away most of the goodness. Matcha is drunk as a fine powder diffused in liquid so you actually ingest the whole leaf, consuming every last bit of goodness.
To order online or to find out your nearest retailer visit www.teapigs.co.uk Use promotion code FLAV12 to receive 20% off online orders (excludes cheeky deals and gift packs, code valid until 30th April 2012)
DUCHY OF CORNWALL
CORDIAL & GRACE
With views overlooking the splendid Restomel Castle and set in the Duchy of Cornwall Garden Nursery, this café just outside Lostwithiel in Cornwall is ideal for an afternoon cream tea, made with fresh, locally-sourced ingredients and a charm that is unmatched. Tregothnan tea is the speciality here and goes perfectly with Trewithen Farm clotted cream and Boddington’s Berries strawberry conserve. An absolute joy...
Cordial & Grace, a modern tea rooms and sewing café located on The Mall in Clifton village, offers a bright and colourful take on a traditional tea room.You will be warmly welcomed in to enjoy loose leaf tea served in vintage china teacups and afternoon tea – from toasted teacakes, scones and homemade cakes to the full three-tier afternoon tea experience.You can also hire a sewing machine in the downstairs parlour or sign up to sewing workshops.
Duchy of Cornwall Nursery Café ♦ Cott Road Lostwithiel ♦ Cornwall ♦ PL22 OHW 01208 872668 ♦ www.duchyofcornwallnursery.co.uk
Flav_47_SW_Tea Feature.indd 42
Cordial & Grace ♦ 9 The Mall Clifton ♦ Bristol ♦ BS8 4DP www.cordial-and-grace.co.uk
08/03/2012 22:17
fflavour’ lavour’s
CUP OF
tetea ea
HR HIGGINS READER OFFER Enter flavour on the website to receive a 10% discount on any tea ordered online up until 31 May
HR Higgins (Coffee-man) Ltd is a third generation family business founded in 1942. Their aim has always been to offer the best quality and to guide customers to find the tea which suits them best. They source some of the world’s finest loose leaf teas, also available in specially designed gift boxes, sold in their London shop in Mayfair’s Duke Street and online. Choose from rare teas like Darjeeling Makaibari 1st Flush Grand Reserve, Nepalese Himalayan Imperial, Indian Meghalaya Lakyrsiew and Mannong Ancient White Buds, to classic Assam Belseri Malt Ceylon Orange Pekoe St Clair, and our own blends Higgins Mayfair Blend, Duke Street Blend, and Higgins Afternoon Blend.
www.hrhiggins.co.uk
Flav_47_SW_Tea Feature.indd 43
08/03/2012 22:17
we go over the top Quartz-Lite innovative work surfaces offer an affordable alternative to solid granite worktops. Quartz-Lite fits on top and around your existing kitchen worktop, or it can be specified as part of a new installation. Quartz Lite provide granite, stone and quartz worktops for your kitchens and bathrooms in the Bristol, Bath and throughout the south west region.
Heat Resistant
Enjoy stylish and practical work surfaces that are heat, stain and scratch resistant.
Scratch Resistant
If you want to transform your kitchen then call 0117 937 3361 or email sales@quartz-lite.com
www.quartz-lite.com Stain Resistant
to transform your kitchen
Flav_47_SW_Adverts.indd 6
08/03/2012 19:09
> flavour martin blunos
DUCK LEG CONFIT INGREDIENTS 4 duck legs, raw 150g/5½oz coarse sea salt, plus extra for serving
SIXTH YEAR AND COUNTING It’s a tough life for Martin Blunos as he judges the best the West has to offer… Chef v Chef, which recently took place in the newly-refurbished kitchens at the City of Bath College, was another resounding success. Chefs of all levels from the area compete using a basket of chosen ingredients and a few of their own brought in for the day’s cooking. Now in its sixth year, Steve Benison et al have done a sterling job to organise and run the event. Year on year more chefs apply, and the judges, one of whom I am honoured to be, have the rather easy task of rocking up on the day to drink coffee, eat and eat some more. When cooking time is up the dishes come thick and fast so tasting rather than eating helps – a couple of Gaviscon don’t go amiss either! The dining scene here in the West Country is vibrant and it’s the chefs and cooks that keep it that way. Away from their day job,
Chef v Chef allows these guys to shine and be seen. This year one of the star ingredients was duck, a restaurant staple that is fast becoming a favourite in the home and is much like chicken to prepare: the slow cooked legs – unctuous and moist; the pan seared breasts – crisp skinned and succulent; the fat that renders – transforming humble roast spuds. Us judges tasted dishes using the said duck, some good some not so, but all created and cooked with va va voom! This month my recipe uses just the duck’s legs. You can readily buy these from supermarkets and butchers as you can the fat (jars or tins). Worth a try – served with a simple salad or on a bed of braised lentils.
Follow me on Twitter: @martinblunos1
Freshly-ground black pepper 1 head garlic, separated into cloves 8 sprigs fresh thyme 2 dried bay leaves, crumbled or fresh chopped 4 tbsp brandy 700g/11lb 8oz duck or goose fat METHOD 1 Rub the duck legs with the coarse sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, one crushed garlic clove, four sprigs of thyme and the bay leaves. Pack tightly into a ceramic dish, skin side down, then drizzle over the brandy, cover the dish with cling film and leave to marinate in the fridge for 24 hours. 2 Preheat the oven to 150˚C/300˚F/ Gas mark 2. 3 Scrape the marinade off the duck pieces. Heat the duck or goose fat in a heavy ovenproof casserole dish then add the duck, the remaining garlic cloves and the remaining thyme. Make sure that the duck is completely submerged in the melted fat. 4 Transfer the dish to the oven and bake for 3½-4 hours, or until the meat is tender. Allow to cool – then set –store in fridge till needed. 5 Preheat the oven to 200˚C/390˚F/ Gas mark 6. Scrape off the fat from the duck legs, then place into a roasting tray. Sprinkle over the coarse sea salt and roast in the oven for 40 minutes, or until the skin is crisp and golden-brown.
One of the South West’s most talented chefs, Martin Blunos was born and brought up near Bath, his parents having come to England from Latvia just after the Second World War. He has held two Michelin stars for more than 15 years and appears regularly on television and radio with regular slots as guest chef on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen with James Martin, BBC Market Kitchen, ITV Daily Cooks and ITV’s Saturday Cooks. 45
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08/03/2012 18:22
Flav_47_SW_Chef Profile_The Devilled Egg.indd 46
08/03/2012 18:10
> flavour chef profile
chef profile Name: Barbora Stiess Where from: Prague, Czech Republic Where is home: Bristol, UK Chefs at: The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy
Brief history? I moved to the UK to study when I was 16, studied at Bristol University and then worked briefly in the financial sector in London. It was at this point that cooking really hit me as another possibility. I applied to study at Leith’s School of Food and Wine – a very long, but absolutely wonderful year for me. After this I spent some years working in various Michelinstarred restaurants, cafes, bakeries and butchers – you learn very different skills in each environment. What gets you up in the morning? How do you maintain your enthusiasm? I am very lucky to have a job that makes me incredibly happy – experimenting with cooking, eating and sampling wine. I also avoid running the same classes for long and am always creating new courses, tastings, retreats, recipes and even blog entries. There’s not much of a routine so I don’t get bored very easily. Strengths and weaknesses? The Devilled Egg’s weakness is perhaps the difficulty in getting people to understand everything that we do. People are used to cookery schools doing things a certain way, so explaining that we do bespoke sessions on everything from tastings, advanced tutorials, retreats and even hen parties can be tricky. On the plus side, once people do realise this they tend to react very favourably. Repeat business has definitely been a strength so far. What foods do you most enjoy working with? I love working with simple ingredients in a way that really shows them off in their pure form. For example: Jerusalem artichokes are undeniably delicious but often ignored – most of my students have no idea what to do with them. Another
example would be quail’s eggs – superbly rich and flavoured, and much more delicate in appearance than a hen’s egg. Also things like cabbage, apples and so on – everyday products that are neglected by popular cooking culture. Is the matching of foods to wine/beer/ Champagne really that important to the everyday diner? I certainly think so. I’m not suggesting you buy every bottle with a dish in mind, or vice versa, but getting to grips with the basics of what matches what makes a huge difference. Both wine and food taste better as a result. Is cooking at home now a bit of a busman’s Holiday? Not really. Although I cook at work, actually planning, preparing and presenting a meal from start to finish is something I only really do at home. It was more of a problem when I worked in restaurants, where creativity is generally not encouraged and cooking becomes very repetitive – the last thing I wanted to do when I got home was pick up a pan! How do your tailor your classes? Do you choose what you want to do or take feedback from your aspiring chefs? Set classes are very much inspired by what students have enjoyed, as well as what’s in season. Bespoke classes are entirely built according to clients’ specifications and objectives. Has food hit its peak or do you see scope for it to get even bigger? What will be the next big thing? There are a number of things – personally I would like to see an increase in people doing more with their own kitchens. A lot of restaurant food could be easily beaten by any competent cook at home
– especially when you consider the relative cost. Sustainability must also be addressed at some point. People are relying on other entities to dictate how their food is sourced and prepared, and are used to buying things pre-packed or even ready-made. Hopefully more restaurants and supermarkets will feel compelled to avoid products and methods that are unsustainable. Easier said than done I think… If you can have anyone prepare you a three-course meal for the first night back at home what would it be and who would you most like to cook it for you? My mum! She always cooked for us and always with love – rabbit leg in black bean sauce. It is essentially her fault that I associate lovely food with social occasions – something I still enjoy to this day. What is your guilty pleasure? Chocolate and prosecco in the bathtub – total relaxation! Any interesting things about you that not a lot of people know? I’m a Trekkie. Any other business? It’s not just about food for me, I love the direct contact with people and their views on food. When people come to the Academy, I want them to have a wonderful time. The Devilled Egg Latchford House 8 Downfield Road Clifton Bristol BS8 2TH 0117 9732 823 www.thedevilledegg.com 47
Flav_47_SW_Chef Profile_The Devilled Egg.indd 47
08/03/2012 18:10
RARE VINEYARDS I
was at a trade fair the other day, chatting to a wine agent who told me he had studied for his wine diploma back in the ‘70s, when New World wines barely existed and didn’t form part of the course. Imagine wine lists without Australia, Chile, New Zealand, California and South Africa. Impossible! Now, imagine being a French winemaker, for example, and watching with horror over the last 30 years as those countries’ wineries have grown in quality, confidence and reputation. It’s tough being in that position knowing how much competition you face, and it’s not helped by the complicated French wine labelling and classification systems that are harder to influence than the weather. It’s no wonder people are a bit scared of French wine at this point. Unpronounceable names and often no evidence of grape varieties on the label don’t help. They’re also often high priced and unavailable by the glass, which makes the purchasing decision an even bigger risk. So, I’m delighted to be able to talk about a range of wines that does the opposite. Rare Vineyards from Languedoc does exactly what it says on the tin. The collection brings together unconventional wines from familiar regions, packaged with a simple, easy-to-read label – including the grape variety. Here’s two venues to find them in.
stanwell house in Lymington is a boutique hotel positioned just minutes from the quay, and it has to be in my top 10 for destinations in the South West, especially if you’re after a bit of luxury. Whether you want seafood, cocktails, a chartered yacht or a great night’s sleep in a four-poster bed, Stanwell has it all. And of course it’s set in the charming town of Lymington, in the undeniably beautiful New Forest. They also stock the velvety Pinot Noir which is full of blueberry and cherry, great value for money and delicious whether you want to enjoy with dinner or afterwards, late into the night. www.stanwellhousehotel.co.uk
In a totally different setting, the george inn at Andover is one of those wonderful British pubs that American tourists go crazy for – low beams, statement fireplaces and wonky doorways. There’s also some interesting events – a French-themed night and sloe gin competition topped the bill in February. Talking of French themes, they stock two Rare Vineyards. Carignan for the red, unusual in itself as a single varietal wine (it’s often blended). Made from grapes grown on 40-year-old vines, this shows in the rich fruit and depth of flavour with herbaceous hints. For white wine lovers, the Marsanne Viognier is just as good. Fresh citrus and a floral hint of peach blossom make this a great wine to go with the Parma ham, fig and melon starter. www.thegeorgeatvernhamdean.co.uk
Wine columnist Clare Morris has over 10 years’ experience in the drinks industry, consulting with hotels, restaurants, pubs and bars across the UK. She is currently studying for a Diploma at the WSET London Wine and Spirit School. 48
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frome
walk, shop & eat around...
and surrounding areas
Frome is the fourth largest town in Somerset and has plenty to offer within its walls and the surrounding area. There’s a charming historic centre with a wealth of architectural interest, alongside a thriving contemporary and performing arts scene. It is now home to a thriving variety of independent and specialist shops, cafes, restaurants, pubs and the ever-popular twice-weekly market... IMAGE COURTESY OF FROME TOWN COUNCIL
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Catherine Hannah saves money on the taxi fare and discovers there’s more to her local pub than meets the eye...
The Cornerhouse T
his is an unusual article for me to write given that The Cornerhouse just happens to be my local pub. Not only is it a convenient stumble from my abode but it’s also undoubtedly (in my humble opinion) the best place in Frome to go for an evening out. I already knew it was a lovely place to while away an evening with a bottle of wine and some good company, but I was about to find out that The Cornerhouse had much more to offer than that.
favourites making a sneaky appearance in among the Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs, both of which my partner and I enjoyed as an accompaniment to our meal, both at a pocket-friendly £14 a bottle.
Since it’s re-opening a year ago The Cornerhouse has established itself as a popular watering-hole in Frome, always buzzing, busy and friendly with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. It’s hard to define this place as it covers so many bases; it’s a great place for early evening or late-night drinks at the bar, the perfect choice for a Sunday lunch with the kids in the upstairs family area, good for both a sociable dinner with a group or a romantic meal à deux.The Cornerhouse also offers accommodation, functions, breakfast, brunch and a popular (and very reasonable) traditional roast lunch. Jack-of-all-trades but master of none? I don’t think so.
We decided to fully embrace la cuisine Française in our food choices for the evening so I started with the coquilles St Jacques, which arrived served in contemporary little white bowls on black slate; I liked the modern twist on presentation of a classic dish and it tasted as good as it looked, the lightly-seasoned creamy sauce complemented the gentle sweetness of the scallops absolutely, without overpowering their subtle delicacy. My partner chose a generous bowl of succulent moules marinières, a dish that wouldn’t have been out of place in a back-street bistro in St Malo, reminiscent of a sunny afternoon au bord de la mer and testament to the quality of the local produce used here.
The restaurant area is quieter and more intimate than the bustling bar but it still retains a convivial atmosphere, largely created by the cheery and ebullient staff whose friendly laid-back approach was the right side of attentive. It has bigger tables for groups and cosy corners for couples, and dimmed lighting and artwork gives it a French feel.This Gallic influence continues in the wine list, with a few New World
The changing dinner menu has been carefully put together by new owner Martin Earley and head chef James Draper, who has moved to Frome to bring his creative flair to The Cornerhouse. It has a distinctly bistro feel and features a number of rustic French classics.
For my main, I chose the weekly fish special, the tempting-sounding “fruits de mer”, a selection of gurnard, lemon sole, sea bass, mussels, clams and scallops served with a garlicky, creamy sauce, – all my favourite things in a bowl. I found the dish a little salty for my taste but the crispy skin and delicate flesh of the sea bass and plump, flavoursome mussels showed off
what The Cornerhouse does so well; fresh, local produce cooked simply and skilfully. The accompanying portions of roasted new potatoes and salad were so generous I almost didn’t have room for dessert. My partner can never resist a steak and didn’t make an exception this time. It was well-cooked and furthermore fulfilled his marginally fussy request for rare-medium. The béarnaise sauce was equally expertly executed and was a lovely addition to a great plate of food. In a town that prides itself on having lots going on,The Cornerhouse has wasted no time in getting involved in Frome’s busy cultural and social life; it’s separate function room plays host to a range of entertainment from quizzes to comedy nights, folk music to open mike nights; the regularly-updated “what’s on” board means there’s never a dull moment in these parts. A highlight of my Christmas drinks was an impromptu serenade from the local ukelele band – not an average sight in most pubs around, but that’s what makes this place different! There’s no question that I’ll be back at The Cornerhouse, I will continue to champion my local and enjoy everything it has to offer – a warm welcome, good food and, above all, great value for money. I hope to see you there.
The Cornerhouse 1 Christchurch Street East Frome BA11 1QA Call: 01373 472042 Visit: www.thecornerhousefrome.co.uk
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The Cornerhouse has wasted no time in getting involved in Frome’s busy cultural and social life
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The Inn at Freshford to Sunday 12, and features Frome’s own Sgt Peppers Lonely Dartboard Band headlining the Saturday evening!
A vibrant and lively country pub, The Inn at Freshford offers the best of English pubs in a truly gorgeous setting. Set in the beautiful Limpley Stoke Valley and overlooking farmland and woodland slopes, it is nestled comfortably on the River Frome. The Inn supports many live music events throughout the year. Kevin Brown (slide guitar) and guests play on the first Friday of the month, while The Deryck Oldroyde Trio have returned to jazz up each Thursday evening. The Beatles & Beer Festival this year runs from Friday August 10
Set among some of the county’s most beautiful walks,The Inn welcomes walkers of two and four-legged varieties with equal enthusiasm! Award-winning Box Steam Brewery beers and guest ales, excellent choice of wines and simply good food, all served with timeless hospitality and charm, make The Inn a must on your list to visit.
The Inn at Freshford The Hill, Freshford, Bath BA2 7WG Call: 01225 722250 Visit: www.theinnatfreshford.co.uk
The Garden Café Situated in the centre of town and open seven days a week, the fully-licensed Garden Café produces delicious meals and snacks using the best natural and organic ingredients.There is also a beautiful walled garden with a covered area for those who prefer to take their food al fresco!
The shop has a great range of organic fruit and vegetables, organic breads and a selection of superb ingredients for you to take home, while if you are looking for a late bite,The Garden Café is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings serving delicious organic pizzas and tapas.
The Bell Inn The Bell at Buckland Dinham is the pub you wish was in your village. Not only is this 16th-century pub full of unique artefacts, customers and books, it offers a fantastic range of proper country food cooked with love and passion. All the real ales and ciders are local and there are Somerset snacks available until midnight every night.There is even a basic old-fashioned campsite where you can eat your food round the campfire followed by a game of boule and a visit to see the chickens and ducks.
private dinner parties, elegant celebrations and film nights.Yes the Bell is really the pub you wish was next door! Cider and Chocolate Festival: Sat 7th April Jubilee Cider and Tobacco Festival: Sat 2nd June Buckfest: Sat 18th and Sun 19th August
And you can get married in the barn too, which also hosts The Garden Café 16 Stony St, Frome BA11 1BU
The Bell Inn Buckland Dinham, Frome BA11 2QT
Call: 01373 454178 Visit: www.gardencafefrome.co.uk
Call: 01373 462956 Visit: www.bellatbuckland.co.uk
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The Grange Restaurant at The Grange is the newer sibling of the world-renowned cookery school, Cookery at The Grange, nestling just outside Frome in the rolling Somerset countryside. It’s set in beautiful grounds, with its own walled garden that grows produce for the restaurant.The open kitchen, with its log-fired oven is a hive of activity, cooking dishes with contemporary and classic flavours from around the world, with fresh, natural ingredients. With a warm, friendly atmosphere, the restaurant is a relaxed environment for family and friends to enjoy great food – in summer sitting on the sun-drenched terrace. With a large lawn for a marquee for weddings, and its own holiday cottage and bed and breakfast accommodation,The Grange is the perfect haven for food lovers! The Grange Whatley, Frome BA11 3JU Call: 01373 836579 Visit: www.cookeryatthegrange.co.uk
Café La Strada Café La Strada provides a warm, professional welcome offering an eclectic mix of bistro-style food and beverages. Serving all the best coffees from the Illy grind the café is also fully licensed. Families are very welcome. The artisan Italian-style ‘Senso’ ice cream is made using local organic milk and cream, creating such flavours as Elderberry Ripple, Stem Ginger, Snap Crackle Toffee, Classic Vanilla Pod, Jasmine & Honey and many more. Fine loose chocolates from around Europe and the UK are boxed and ribboned beautifully for all those special occasions. The café also boasts an art gallery showing local artists. Open Monday-Saturday 8.30am-6pm Sundays and Bank Holidays 10am-5pm
Café La Strada 13 Cheap St, Frome BA11 1BN Call: 01373 474374 Visit: www.cafelastrada.co.uk 53
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La Bisalta La Bisalta is an unexpected find in Frome. A warm welcome is always extended before dining in elegant surroundings by the warmth of a crackling log fire. An extensive range of regional Italian wines complement the tastiest of dishes cooked to
perfection by owner and chef Luigi, all from the large à la carte menu and daily specials board. With thoughts of summer, lovers of al fresco dining can look forward to taking meals on the pretty garden terrace.
The George at Nunney Under new ownership since August 2008, The George at Nunney has quickly established itself as a firm favourite with locals, regulars and travellers alike. Enjoy drinks by an open fire before a gastronomic threecourse dinner in the restaurant, or sample the bar menu of salads and other hot and cold options. They are renowned for their savoury ice creams.
pork with sage and apple, roast Aberdeen Angus beef, Corsley lamb, goats’ cheese salad, homemade beef and ale pies, dark chocolate mousse and fine Somerset cheeses.
Head chef Wayne Carnegie and his team focus on seasonal, often locallysourced ingredients, including favourites such as milk-fed La Bisalta 6 Vicarage St, Frome BA11 1PX
The George at Nunney Nunney, Frome BA11 4LW
Call: 01373 464238 Visit: www.labisalta.co.uk
Call: 01373 836458 Visit: www.thegeorgeatnunney.co.uk
Ston Easton Park
Come dine with us – a destination of distinction. Ston Easton Park, in the heart of Somerset and only ten miles from Bath and Frome, your countryside destination for fine dining, celebrations and events – all year round. As spring flowers and blossoms, unveil the magic of Ston Easton. The estate and gardens are open to visitors, not only wishing to experience the famously designed landscape by Humphrey Repton in the 18th century, but also to book for luncheons and the 6-9 April: Easter fun for all the family 19 April: Homes & Antiques – Champagne cream tea
ever-popular afternoon teas and history tours. Events are highlighted on the website and this summer there is something really exciting for you to enjoy with the Covent Garden Dance Company as they take part in “Ballet in the Park” in July. This will be another breathtaking performance in the grounds with a Champagne black tie dinner – what a sensation for your summer diary.Why not bring a party!
25 April: History Tour of the House and Gardens with luncheon and afternoon tea
20 & 21 July: Ballet in the Park with Covent Garden Dance Company Tickets £115.00 Tables seat 10
Ston Easton Park Nr Bath, Somerset BA3 4DF Call: 01761 241631 Visit: www.stoneaston.co.uk 54
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Charlton House The Spa at Charlton House is a unique and luxurious place to visit for those who wish to soothe the mind and soul, relax, recuperate and leave feeling rejuvenated. It promises to be a decadent experience for a quiet contemplative visit, a get-together with friends or a romantic getaway. The superb Moroccan-themed thermal spa facilities include a massaging hydrotherapy pool, an aroma-infused Laconium, an invigorating Finnish sauna, Experience showers, ice fountain, and a relaxing outdoor Jacuzzi.These will help you clear your mind and put a spring back into your step. Charlton House Hotel & spa are welcoming guests to join as members. On joining you will be part of a very exclusive establishment with its unique ambience, personal service & our range of very special membership benefits. Join today and discover pure bliss...
Charlton House Shepton Mallet, Nr Glastonbury BA4 4PR Call: 01749 342008 Visit: www.bannatyne.co.uk/hotel/charltonhouse
Archangel The Archangel, dating back to 1311, was recently renovated and is now under new ownership. Inside you will be welcomed by log fires and sitting room bars, while outside there is a walled garden with bags of
charm. Enjoy a pint of local ale and a choice of homemade bar snacks or be tempted by the serious offerings of locally-sourced produce in the restaurant. Stay overnight and soak in the luxurious roll-top baths in the renaissancemuralled bedrooms.
Archangel 1 King Street, Frome BA11 1BH Call: 01373 456111 Visit: www.archangelfrome.com
Yumble Crumble Yumble Crumble produce a range of sweet and savoury crumbles, made by hand using local and seasonal produce. They have kept what’s best about the traditional British crumble but given it a gentle makeover by using a more imaginative range of ingredients.The savoury crumbles, however, are something completely new – delicious meat, fish or vegetarian fillings with a crispy cheese and breadcrumb topping.
Yumble Crumble Call: 01373 300792 Visit: www.yumblecrumble.co.uk 55
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The Griffin Inn F
rome is a pretty little place, with its eponymous river running through the town, its cobbled walkway with central watercourse, and a selection of quaint and interesting shops – especially the multi-flavoured bags of jelly beans! But a perhaps lesser-known joy of a visit to this ancient part of Somerset lies just a way up the steep hill out of the town. There, in Milk Street, sits the Griffin Inn. It’s in the oldest part of the town, and this is clear from the lovely stone-built construction and an exterior marked by slightly uneven lines that give the pub an air of genteel antiquity. In fact, it is thought there was an inn here as far back as the 14th or 15th century. The current building was built around the end of the 16th century, when the first Queen Elizabeth was on the throne. For years it was an Usher’s pub, and apart from the sheer age and architectural beauty of the building, was a pretty unremarkable boozer. But, fast-forward to the very end of the 20th century, and the Griffin began a new lease of life as the ‘brewery tap’ of the newly-founded Milk Street Brewery. This was the birth of the charming and characterful pub we visited in March 2012. As you enter the pub, your eye is first drawn to an utterly beautiful stained glass griffin that sits behind the bar. It was created by local artist Tamasine Pritchard in 2009 to mark the pub’s 10th anniversary, and is a rare example of modern art that enhances a very old pub. There’s just the one bar, and the ceiling
beams have been refurbished as part of an elaborate metal cable system that seems to keep the ceiling up where it ought to be. The floor is bare wood, as are the majority of tables and chairs. One thing is certain, this furniture was certainly not all bought as a batch. Tables and chairs of different sizes and shapes give the place an endearing and strangely comforting sense of chaos. There is a TV in one corner, which is pressed into service for rugby or occasional major sports events, but for the most part sits dozing quietly on the wall. Another thing that will strike you is the lack of piped music, no Radio-2-esque easy listening or jukebox boybandery here. There is the promise of regular live music though, as if to eschew anything that is plasticised and overly packaged. Around the walls there are works of art for sale, including a colourful parrot wearing a pair of Jonathan King circa 1978 glasses; and a patriotic frieze of the current Duke and Duchess of Cambridge set against the Union flag and partaking of an alcoholic tipple that is unlikely ever to be sold here. Behind a rickety door is a pool table, and there are smaller, more portable games such as shove ha’penny in the bar. Photocopies of crosswords on the wall are there for the wandering traveller to exercise the cryptic part of their brain while refreshing their palate. There is a secluded beer garden too, but the thing that really sets this beer lover’s pub
A regular contributor to CAMRA magazine Pints West, Duncan Shine champions the virtues of real ale and traditional cider.
apart (no draught lager at all, by the way) is the brewhouse at the rear of the property. There is real pride in the quality of beer they produce here. To test this theory, if Carl is not rushed off his feet, start the sentence ‘Can I have a look round...’, and before you can finish the sentence you’ll be off out the back being regaled with tales of how the brewhouse was once an ‘adult’ movie theatre. Carl is also more than happy to discuss and provide samples of the beer so you get exactly the pint that suits you. He’ll talk you through the brewing process, the importance of ingredients and how they came to name each of the beers (most of these tales involve the consumption of copious quantities of said ales). Carl’s enthusiasm and passion for the beer is infectious, and it is all too easy to while away far too long in his company. This is definitely a beer pub rather than a food outlet, although hot food is available on Sundays. Please don’t visit on a weekday lunchtime however, as the Griffin is only open for the late afternoon and evening trade. But, if a top notch pint of real ale served in convivial surroundings by a truly committed craftsman is your idea of a good time, then the Griffin is well worth a visit. The Griffin Inn 25 Milk Street Frome BA11 3DB Call: 01373 467766 Visit: www.milkstreetbrewery.co.uk
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Raise a glass to... Milk Street Funky Monkey (4%). Not sure if this is more traditional best bitter or a ‘first time out in the garden’ spring ale. It’s a dark copper colour, but the smell and taste is fruit, fruit, fruit. There’s a dry finish to it, leaving the palate eager for more. Milk Street Mermaid (4.1%). A lighter, old-fashioned barley fruit colouring conceals a really very hoppy brew, but with that undercurrent of citrus fruit that seems to characterise most brews from Milk Street. Quite bitter too, but you never lose the hops from first waft to last gulp. Milk Street Zig Zag (4.5%). So named because that’s how you tend to walk home after too much of this delightful chocolately stout. A tip, ask Carl to put a couple of logs on the fire as you savour the roasted flavour. I think there’s even a hint of citrus in this darkest of beers, but it’s none the worse for that. Milk Street Beer (5%). Something very satisfying about saying ‘I’ll have a pint of beer please’ and the bar staff knowing exactly what you mean. It’s the palest of the brews we tried, but deceptively strong. There’s a late sweetness to the taste that complements the early bitterness nicely. The hops are very noticeable in the aroma too. 57
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FLAVOUR’S STORE CUPBOARD
Mint and lamb, beef and horseradish, apple and pork... Says who? Con.di.ment
ISH SAUCE
HORSERAD
WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE or Worcester Worcestershire sauce id condiment; liqu d nte me fer a sauce is meat or fish our primarily used to flav ad Street, Bro 60 at de ma st Fir dishes. pensing dis two by d, Worcester, Englan and William Lea ey eel Wh n Joh chemists, & Perrins brand Henry Perrins, the Lea 7 and has been 183 in d lise rcia was comme lands Road Mid t ren produced in the cur 7. It was 189 ce sin r ste rce Wo in factory y in 2005 pan Com inz purchased by H.J. He it as Lea & ure act nuf ma to e tinu who con sauce is often an Perrins. Worcestershire t, Caesar salad, ebi rar lsh We in t ingredien etimes added som and Oysters Kirkpatrick, o used to als It’s ne. car con li to chi as our h suc ils flavour cockta favoured Bloody Mary.
No Sunday roast beef dinner is complete without a good dollop of horseradish sauce on the side. Ironically the horseradish plant was used for medicinal purposes first and it wasn’t until 1860 that the horseradish was first used as a condiment, when the root was grated and vinegar and cream added to make it the favourite it is today. Its use has spread from traditional roasts to sandwiches and salads, delivering that unique (and sometimes fiery) taste to a meal. Great in a Bloody Mary too!
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> flavour flavour’s store cupboard
E CRANBERRY SAUC Commonly associated with Thanksgiving dinner ‘stateside’ and Christmas dinner in the UK, the most basic cranberry sauce consists of cranberries boiled in sugar water until the berries pop and the mixture thickens. Some recipes include other ingredients such as slivered almonds, orange juice, zest, ginger, maple syrup, port or cinnamon. We believe this wonderful sauce can be eaten with pretty much anything…
MUSTARD
PICALLI
GENTLEMAN’S
RELISH
MINT SAUCE
ovy h is a type of anch Gentleman’s Relis n ma sh 1828 by Engli paste, created in lty sa ry ve g, on str sa John Osborn. It ha taste, and contains and slightly fishy s. It is r, herbs and spice anchovies, butte slices on thinly spread traditionally eaten on its r he eit st, toa -bread of buttered white and d tar us mber, or “m own, or with cucu as an ted pic de en be has cress” sprouts. It ent, class accompanim upper- or middle... us eo rg go it’s but get stuck in,
Traditionally made from finelychopped spearmint leaves, which are then soaked in vinegar and added to a small amount of sugar, mint sauce has a long history in British tradition. Although largely associated with lamb, it also has pedigree with Indian dishes such as ‘raita’ or more weirdly, mushy peas!
BREAD SAUCE
APPLE SAUCE A staple with roast pork, apple sauce is a purée that often incorporates a number of spices such as cinnamon and allspice. In the US and France, the sauce is served as a popular dessert (a compote) which is served with whole pieces of fruit mixed with the sauce to create a sweet, fruity dish, while in The Netherlands they like it on their fries. Each to their own!
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Essential Oils Bath Harvest RAPESEED OIL
Deliciously smooth and mild, Bath Harvest Rapeseed Oil is an essential addition to your kitchen cupboard. Containing half the saturated fat of olive oil, it’s rich in Omega 3 and a natural source of vitamin E. They traditionally cold press Bath Harvest from seed grown and harvested on their family farm, a Duchy of Cornwall estate in the heart of Bath. Extra Virgin Rapeseed Oil wonderfully complements and enhances the fresh flavours of food and is perfect for everyday cooking from dressings to stir-frying.
Make your dish look and taste sumptuous with our ‘Essential Oil’ selections...
Rupert Blamire CERAMICS FOR COOKS AND KITCHENS A Bristol-based ceramics studio designing and creating handmade bespoke ceramicson the potter’s wheel. They use only the finest materials, a Staffordshire terracotta, with all of their ceramics being twice-fired to a temperature of 1120°C. Great pride is taken in their designs and unique glazes which combine to make the perfect gift for foodies everywhere.
Quite simply it’s a natural drop of Somerset... For local stockists or for more information visit:
www.bathharvestoils.co.uk Twitter: @BathHarvest
Danilo Manco EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OILS AND BALSAMIC VINEGARS OF DISTINCTION
Call: 0117 939 3914 Email: info@oliveoildecanters.com
www.oliveoildecanters.com
L’amore nella selezione ORDERING ONLINE: Retail: www.theoliveoilmill.co.uk
Specialising in Extra Virgin Olive Oils and Balsamic Vinegars, Danilo Manco is a family-run business and purveyors of the finest personally-sourced produce selected directly from small growers from Italy.
Wholesale: www.theoliveoilco.com
Found at Borough Market every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, Danilo Manco taste, bottle and fulfil orders for London’s best restaurants and shops. Call: 0207 740 1717
A MEMBER OF
www.danilomanco.com
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fusion confusion Fusion cuisine has been touted by critics either as a revolutionary way of looking at cooking or a flash-in-the-pan fad – but is it that black and white? Louis Labron-Johnson investigates...
T
he term ‘fusion’ when applied to cooking is certainly a loaded one. There is a sort of (partially-justified) wariness around hybrid foods. Even as many restaurants seek to liberate themselves from ‘traditional’ cuisine, by pairing nationalities – for example Latino-Indian – they often only end up pigeonholing themselves yet further as every dish becomes restricted to trying to make a successful ‘fusion’. Some diners will wax lyrical on their Pan-Asian or Tex-Mex experiences, while others will ruefully recall the time they were press-ganged into trying bangers and mash pizza or foie gras sushi. The thing is, trendy though it may be, fusion cooking is hardly a new thing – we’ve been doing it for centuries. People have always mixed cuisines, whether by accident or through necessity, for example due to invasion, immigration or emigration.
Many dishes we take for granted would have at one time seemed revolutionary. Pineapple on a pizza? Hoi sin duck wrapped in tortilla with iceberg lettuce? That’s three cultures in one Sainsbury’s wrap. We fuse food ourselves, every day. When you splash Tabasco sauce on your shepherd’s pie, that’s – albeit in a small way – fusion cooking. The citizens of Alicante are up in arms at the award of ‘best paella’ going to Valencia, since the dish originated in the mountains near Alicante. “But they use seafood!” they shriek, “It’s not pure!” Valencians shrug and say that their paella is just better – and perhaps it is. Like language, cuisine is constantly evolving; like language, much is taken from neighbouring cultures; and like language, there will always be those who mourn for a loss of tradition, however inevitable it might be. Evidence suggests that pasta probably originated in China, so however far back in time you go,
it is unlikely that you will find a truly ‘traditional’ cuisine. Much better perhaps to focus on the indelible fact that some flavours go together, and some, simply, do not. Indian coriander can be partnered with Belgian mussels, and taste delicious. The nationality of the produce needn’t enter into it. Conversely, despite the best efforts, no doubt, of somebody somewhere, chocolate lobster will probably never take off (I await Heston or Ferran Adrià to now prove me wrong)! Restaurants that set out their stall as ‘such-and-such with a twist’ are infinitely more flexible than those that limit themselves to specific food cultures, as they can draw from the best combinations all over the world. Fusion food need not be a byword for on-trend, hit-or-miss cooking, but ought to be embraced and accepted as a natural culinary progression. 61
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Yum Yum Thai Yum Yum Thai is a family-owned restaurant that has been trading in Bath for 11 years now. They are proud to be the only Thai restaurant to offer super Thai food using only free-range chicken and English bred/reared beef and pork. All their wines are organic and they also offer a large choice of vegetarian options. The restaurant is friendly, light and informal and takeaway is also available.
Yum Yum Thai 17 Kingsmead Square Bath BA1 2AE 01225 445253 www.yumyumthai.com
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Panasia Panasia’s menu takes you on a whistle-stop tour of the East, from Bangkok to Tokyo. True to their historical influences, traditional seasonings based on the use of fresh herbs, roots and dried toasted spices provide dishes with authentic textures and will excite your taste buds with bold flavours, while the contemporary menu mirrors the captivating restaurant décor. Panasia’s tempting cocktail menu has no usual suspects, just sublime drinks using Asian ingredients, including Thai rum and Japanese saké, shochu and umeshu. Excite your palate with a smooth saké mojito, explosive Mauy Thai or a seductive geisha blush. Complete your tasting journey with an Oriental Champagne cocktail.
Let this experience together with the contemporary menu and friendly, gracious service come together to provide a relaxing yet lively ambience.
Panasia 2 George Street Bath BA1 2EH
Panasia is open from 11.30am Monday to Sunday and open all day Saturday and Sunday with last orders at 11pm on weekends. There are daily specials and the excellent three-course set lunch for £8.95 is available every day.
01225 481001
The restaurant has two seating areas. The ground floor seats 40 and the basement seats 35. The basement is very popular to hire out for private functions such as cocktail parties, birthday parties or private events and has its own bar area.
Try the crunchy soft shell deep fried crab, served with a mango edamame salsa; the freshly rolled Vietnamese spring roll with fresh herbs and crunchy vegetables, served with a sweet chili sauce or the marvellous Panang Pak – fried bean curd with fresh vegetables cooked in a traditional Thai red curry.
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08/03/2012 18:40
PORTVCALE As an unabashed American glutton, Rob Magnuson Smith doesn’t like observing hunger, let alone sobriety. So on the first Friday of Lent he headed to Portvcale...
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his little Portuguese gem should be at the top of your list if you like food and drink. Portvcale – the Roman Latin term for Portugal – opened a couple of months ago in the space previously inhabited by The Lounge. It’s a relaxed environment, with low lighting and friendly staff. I took along my friend Ian, who can be so dour he makes everyone else in England seem upbeat. Even Ian liked the place. Antonio, joint owner with his mother Ines, met us at the door. Antonio is a barrel-chested satyr of a man, with a wiry beard and is busy running around with plates of food. He took one look at my mug and fixed me a drink. It was a vodka expresso and amaretto martini, layered with Kahlua and Baileys and garnished with cracked espresso beans – a sweet and foamy little number, and a tad girlish, but this didn’t stop me from enjoying the hell out of it. Ian and I almost ordered another when Antonio appeared at our table with a bottle of 2008 Cartuxa Evora. I like red wine. I like it so much, I drink it to breathe properly. But this Cartuxa made my lungs open up. It had depth, balance, and an elegant mineral body. It also made me want to visit Alentejo, in Southern Portugal, where this wine’s grapes are produced. I don’t know much about Portugal (see definition of American), but when I sipped this Cartuxa, with its earthy, gravelly aroma and its hints of black pepper and tobacco, I felt like I was on a mountain surrounded by goats, or by a harbour watching sailboats, or chatting to a philosopher smoking a pipe. Except I wasn’t doing any of these things – I was just having dinner with Ian. I was already on my second glass when the food started coming. First up – octopus. Generously sprinkled with lime and fresh parsley, the tentacles had a fresh, briny chewiness and went nicely with white bread. Next came mussels. These bivalves were fat
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and meaty, with cute little necks poking out from under their black shells, smothered in white wine sauce. Antonio’s fried chorizo was my favourite. I ate more than my share but these fatty and crispy salt bombs were too tasty for manners. After that we tried the delicious pimientos con quijo dos Acores, “peppers stuffed with peppers,” layered with Azores cheese and seasoned with basil. We finished with the carne de porco a alentejana, an aromatic, succulent ‘surf and turf’ of pork and clams that came out in a steaming copper pot. I asked Antonio if I could meet the chef. “You mean my mother Ines,” he said. She soon appeared in a white smock, smiling awkwardly. “It’s my first time as chef,” Ines said. “I used to just cook at home.” I wish I had a mother like Ines. I love my mother, but if she had cooked like Ines, I don’t believe I would have left America. In lieu of dessert, Ian and I opted for caipirinhas. Built by hand, with fresh lime and cascades of crushed ice, the caipirinhas put me in mind of Brazilian dancers, with strong kicks of sugar cane rum. I wanted to take a couple of them home. Portvcale’s clientele was a combination of party girls, locals and lost tourists. One of the tables was chronically sticky, even after Antonio scrubbed it clean, and the men’s lavatory is painted an obnoxious cherry red. Thankfully for Antonio, his food and drink is so good, you won’t care about these annoyances – you’ll just eat and drink until you can’t see straight, dream of Portugal, and thank your lucky stars you’re not into self-deprivation. Portvcale 43 St James’s Parade Bath BA1 1UQ 01225 424321
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earth’s treasure Maitreya Social
The Garden Café
Sweetcorn Relish
The Garden Café produces delicious food for you to enjoy in a relaxed environment and in a way that reflects their belief that looking after personal health and well-being as harmoniously as possible has a direct influence on the day-to-day care and future of planet Earth. What we all eat and who we trade with plays a hugely important role in positive living.
This is a firm favourite with the staff and customers here at Maitreya Social. We serve it with the delicious veggie Maitreya burger on the lunch menu, but really it can be eaten with anything. I like this relish with quesadillas or burritos, bhajis or pakoras, or with a good old-fashioned cheese sandwich. MAKES TWO JARS INGREDIENTS 500g sweetcorn kernels (if using fresh, lightly blanched and removed from the cob) 2 red peppers 6 cloves garlic (minced) 500ml cider vinegar 325g golden caster sugar 1 large onion Fine sea salt 1 tbsp brown mustard seeds 1 tbsp turmeric 2 tbsps cornflour METHOD 1 Dice the onion and peppers as finely as possible and place in a colander with the sweetcorn
and garlic. Sprinkle the veg liberally with salt and allow to sit for an hour. 2 Mix the vinegar and the sugar in a large pan and place on a low heat to allow the sugar to dissolve. 3 Rinse the excess salt off the veg and add them to the vinegar and sugar. Toast the mustard seeds in a dry pan until they begin to pop then add them to the pot with the turmeric. Turn up the heat and allow the relish to come lightly to the boil. 4 Mix the cornflour with a touch of water to a paste and add this to the pot stirring thoroughly. 5 Leave on a low heat for a couple of minutes until thickened a little. Place in two sterilised jars to cool and keep.
With this ethos in mind, all their meals are created in the kitchen using the best ingredients available, incorporating organic, free-range, Fairtrade and locallysourced to provide delicious food seven days a week.
The ever-increasing number of regulars and new customers appreciate the food is produced based on the now recognised fact that one of the biggest and easiest steps in reducing our personal carbon footprint is by not eating a diet that is primarily based on animal farming, so at The Garden Café all the food is vegetarian with many vegan options available.
Maitreya Social is a cosy bar, veggie restaurant and arts space. Now open for breakfast and lunch Tuesday to Sunday as well as dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Continuing the excellent vegetarian menus celebrated by its many awards, Maitreya is beginning a new phase. Bringing a friendly bar to Easton, they are pleased to showcase some of the city’s thriving artistic talent through live music events, performances, and exhibitions of local art and illustration. 100 per cent vegetarian, their menus are contemporary, hearty, simple and inspiring. They are committed to using seasonal, local, fairtrade and where possible organic produce.
www.maitreyasocial.co.uk
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www.gardencafefrome.co.uk
08/03/2012 19:18
As more and more of us look for a healthier lifestyle, what better place to start than at the grassroots…
Linda McCartney
Demuths
If you are vegetarian, or simply want to cut back on your meat consumption for health, environmental or ethical reasons during Vegetarian Month, Linda McCartney Foods has the perfect products for you. With a wide range of products suitable for vegetarians, vegans and meat reducers alike, look no further than Linda McCartney Foods this March.
The Vegetarian Cookery School is based in the centre of Bath in a beautiful Georgian building and is run by Rachel Demuth, owner of award-winning Demuths Restaurant.
The mouthwatering range includes Rosemary & Red Onion Sausages, Sausage Rolls, Mozzarella Burgers and the UK’s number one selling vegetarian sausage. And with Easter on the horizon, the delectable Vegetarian Roast will make the perfect veggie centrepiece for your veggie Easter lunch.
Choose from a variety of courses suitable for all abilities from beginner to the accomplished cook. One of the most popular courses is Fast and Delicious, a course ideal for people in a hurry. Or, you could try Flavours of Italy, where you will learn how to make fresh pasta. For the more adventurous cook, there Thai and Vietnamese or Southern Indian Thali courses. Come for a whole day, half a day, a taster short workshop or an evening. Cookery School vouchers make great presents for foodie friends and family.
www.lindamccartneyfoods.co.uk
MULU Chocolate MULU Raw Chocolate is handcrafted in Devon using ethically-traded ingredients, at low temperatures, with unique, allergen-free recipes designed to optimise the high concentration of antioxidants and multiple nutrient compounds found in raw cacao. All chocolate products within the MULU range are Vegetarian Society approved, newly-certified Organic and absolutely delicious!
Planning a group outing? The cookery school is perfect for birthday treats, leaving do’s, anniversaries, reunions, works outings, hen and stag parties with a difference – cooking, eating and drinking together is great fun especially with your friends and colleagues!
MULU Raw Chocolate is available in four varieties; Silk block 74g, Dark block 74g, Dark with Raw Cacao Nibs block 68g and Raw Chocolate Buttons 22g.
www.muluchocolate.co.uk
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www.vegetariancookeryschool.com
08/03/2012 19:18
...a memorable experience at Britain’s premier Indian Restaurant
Connoisseurs choice for over three decades Open Daily
4 Argyle Street, Bath, BA2 4BA Tel: 01225 466833 or 464758 www.rajpoot.com
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08/03/2012 19:05
> flavour sian blunos
Chef, food writer, author and mother Siân Blunos is passionate about children’s health and their eating habits, and believes that expanding your knowledge of food can only help benefit your child.
Over the past 50 years, lifestyles in the UK have changed in ways that tend to promote obesity. The rapid rise suggests that environmental factors rather than gene defects are the cause. These may include the reliance on fast, high-fat, energy-dense foods, lack of cooking skills, larger portion sizes and lack of physical activity. Technology and labour saving devices could also play a part in increasing a sedentary lifestyle. Childhood obesity is a significant social, medical and economic problem and its prevalence has escalated over the last two decades and has been described as an obesity epidemic. The Labour government introduced a number of
KNOW YOUR
LIMITS
policies aimed at tackling obesity, their initial focus was on children and the ambition was to be the first major nation to reverse the rising tide of obesity and in the population by ensuring everyone is able to achieve and maintain healthy weight children: by 2020, the aim is to reduce the proportion of overweight and obese children to 2000 levels. An obese child can often be bullied and discriminated against by their peers; this can lead to low self-esteem and poor academic performance. As parents we can influence what our children eat, getting it right at an early age will hopefully encourage them to make healthy choices as they grow.
OVEN–BAKED CHICKEN WITH LEMON AND ROSEMARY Makes 6-8 portions INGREDIENTS 3 medium potatoes for the mash 1 medium carrot, diced 2 chicken legs 1 sprig of rosemary 1 small onion, chopped 275ml unsalted chicken stock Juice of ½ small lemon METHOD 1 Prepare the potato mash. In a saucepan, cook the carrot for about 12 minutes until tender and drain in a colander.
COOKING FOR COCO Like most busy mothers, Siân wanted to feed her baby well, but didn’t have a lot of free time on her hands. Her solution was to develop recipes using a wide variety of fresh, available foods, which could be batch-cooked and used to stock the freezer. Now, she always has a range of delicious dishes on hand, and you can too. With a little care and planning you can give even the youngest of children the experience of good, fresh food, which is tasty and nutritious. To order a personally signed copy of Cooking for Coco for only £8.50 (including postage), RRP £9.99, email sian@blunos.com
2 Preheat the oven to 170°C. Put the chicken in an ovenproof pan with the rosemary and onion. Add the stock, bring to the boil and cover. Transfer to the oven and cook for about 40 minutes or until the chicken is tender. Leave to cool in the pan, then strain the chicken over a bowl, reserving the cooking liquid. 3 Take the meat off the bone and put into a food processor with the lemon juice and add the onions and carrots. Blend, leaving it chunkier for older children. Put with the mash, adding more stock if necessary. Divide into portions, then serve or freeze.
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08/03/2012 21:43
The return of the mac
Will 2012 see a retreat to comfort food and easy eating? Nick Harman sticks his fork in…
‘The best macaroni cheese in London?’ asks a recent wide-eyed Tweet, to which the instinctive answer must be ‘who cares?’ I’m not knocking The Mac. Back when I was a student a macaroni cheese supper saw me through many an empty larder night. There was always macaroni in the house and once you’d sliced the green bits off the cheap cheddar, and wrung out the last sour drops from the milk carton, you were all set. Anyone can make macaroni cheese and at some point everyone probably has. My mother used to make it, her culinary quirk being to thoroughly blacken the top under the grill before serving. As a result whenever I now taste burnt cheese I get an immediate Proustian flashback to visions of striking miners.
Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writer’s Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.
Apart from being cheap food macaroni cheese is also baby food, or invalid food, soft stuff for people who aren’t up to eating ‘proper’ meals, either because their taste buds are still in their infancy or their dentures aren’t too reliable. And like last year’s easy-eating fad of burgers, it’s now being championed on social media. It’s not quite finger food but it is simple and already other easy-eating, student grub is doubtless being eyed up for its 15 minutes of
fame. Perhaps fried chicken (not the Colonel’s though, obviously, as it’s far too working class) and maybe even doner kebabs? People will eat the classic elephant’s leg with relish, or more likely artisan chili sauce (aymaaaayzin!), and they will actually say they enjoy scoffing it while perched precariously on a cold concrete bollard somewhere in the city centre. The reason has to be the recession. Online foodies are mostly under 30 and the economic climate means that instead of growing up, finding a partner and getting a home, many have been forced to continue to live in shared houses. Others have even gone back to living with their parents. They have the spare cash to go out to eat but they don’t want to spend too much or be too challenged. They want to eat as a group, be on trend at all times, eat the same things and eat things that are comforting. So stuck in post-grad limbo they are beginning to coddle themselves with the food from their earlier youth. We won’t be seeing macaroni cheese, or mac’n’cheese as it’s being tiresomely called, everywhere thank goodness, but if Twitter has its way expect to see it on many a cool new pop-up restaurant’s handwritten menu. It costs nothing to make, it’s almost impossible to muck up and hardly anyone dislikes it. The mac is coming back.
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08/03/2012 22:26
THE POTAGER
DIVINE FOOD, HEAVENLY SETTING The Potager restaurant at Barnsley House is a haven of good food, beautiful surroundings and remarkable value. Underpinning the revitalised, cosier decor and new menu is a whole-hearted embrace of Rosemary Verey’s internationally-acclaimed gardens, harnessed daily to create tasty menus, which at lunchtime start from £23.50. THE POTAGER Barnsley, Cirencester Gloucestershire GL7 5EE T 01285 740 000 info@barnsleyhouse.com www.barnsleyhouse.com Potager Full Pg Ad.indd 2
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Halmark_BCAd:Layout 1 07/03/2012 20:45 Page 1
b o u t i q u e s t y l e & c o n t e m p o r a r y ★★★★
Hallmark Hotel Gloucester Matson Lane Robinswood Hill Gloucester GL4 6EA 01452 525653
Hallmark Health Club & Beauty More than just a club... Relax and unwind at the Hallmark Health Club with swimming pool, sauna, steam room, gym and treatment rooms. Spa Days available from only £49pp. Escape and relax with lunch in the Hallmark Brasserie Bar and enjoy one of 50 treatments the hotel offers.
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ocated in the heart of the Cotswolds, the Hallmark Hotel is a boutique style, contemporary 4-star hotel. With an emphasis on comfort and service you will enjoy one of 95 stylish bedrooms, alongside delicious food and wine served in the relaxed atmosphere of the lounge bar and Brasserie, plus use of the extensive leisure facilities including swimming pool and treatment rooms.
Hallmark Brasserie Bar Open All Day, Everyday - Perfect for day, evening meetings - Free parking - Free wifi - relaxed atmosphere; Join the Hallmark Coffee Club (ask at the bar during your visit) - Enjoy ‘Tapas’ from 5.30pm-7.30pm served in the bar everyday from only £4.75 a plate
The Hallmark Hotel is the perfect base for exploring the Cotswolds with Cheltenham, Gloucester and the Cotswold villages situated close by...
www.hallmarkhotels.co.uk