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long shelf life
As part of a new series, Helen Aurelius-Haddock takes a closer look at the culinary classics that should be adorning every cook’s bookshelf...
LONG SHELF LIFE... It was not too long ago that the very title of this book would have brought on sniggers and howls of derision from the inner junta of the foodie world. ‘English’ was never an adjective to entice a discerning diner through a restaurant door, and Jane Grigson knew that. In writing this book she was swimming against the tide as post-war British food was greatly overlooked in international eating circles up to that point in time. There were some amongst us that felt that British food had no true identity other than that adhering to the image of an overcooked roast and two veg dinner followed up by a glutinous stodgy pudding laced with school dinner custard. Although not a book dealing with the British Isles as an entity, Jane Grigson has attempted to encapsulate the essence of our national cooking identity in this no-nonsense book. In her introduction, she seems to get to the nub of the identity issue very early on by saying "English cooking,both historically and in the mouth,is a great deal more varied and delectable than our masochistic temper in this matter allows" fighting talk indeed for the sceptics. She defends the assertion by adding that English food is distinct, as its cooking has its roots in the domestic kitchens of the nation, and not in the fine dining establishments as seen for example in France. It is therefore different from the usual restaurant fare.
Her format follows the traditional route: Recipes classified into the usual categories, meat, poultry, game, bread, cakes, biscuits, so no real departure from the recipe book gold standard of its era. It’s unlikely to produce any true inspiration for an elegant dinner party, a crown roast of lamb is as classy as it gets. However, if you are puzzling over boiling a ham for a special occasion or wanting to make a Yorkshire pud that rises sky-high,
It may be that this book may not appeal to the multi-cultural tastes of many younger, modern cooks, but if you want conclusive proof that we did have a culinary identity before hand dived scallops, gastropub steak and ale pie and chicken tikka masala, then buy this book and cook your way through it. It's a revelation, albeit a very understated one.
English cooking, both historically and in the mouth, is a great deal more varied and delectable than our masochistic temper in this matter allows. Jane Grigson this is the book to have by your side. It has a wealth of recipes that have been handed down in domestic kitchens for centuries and they have been faithfully reproduced by their author to reflect our nation's core dishes. Only a few weeks ago I had a hankering to make Lardy cake and it was here that I found how to do it, it was delicious and it will be made again and again. Summer pudding, so often a front-page item on the myriad of food magazines when in season is here, as are Bakewell tart, oxtail soup and shepherd's pie.
A student of Bristol University back in the ‘70s, Helen has since exchanged her life in the West Country for the sunnier climes of Western France. You can follow her culinary musings across the Channel on her blog: www.haddockinthekitchen.wordpress.com
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