Flamingo Magazine

No.

9

— 6 0 R E ASO N S F LO R I DA I S T H E G R E AT E ST P L AC E O N E A RT H —

THE ICONS ISSUE For Floridians. By Floridians.

BIG BEND BINGE O Y S T E R S H O O T E R S, RUM RUNNERS & G U I TA R P I C K E R S

STILTSVILLE’S RAUCOUS PAST P ROSY FUTURE MAYDAY IN THE EVERGLADES

EASTERN AIRLINES

}

Made in Florida StylesuKeep

Our Oceans healthy

FLIGHT 401 & PRO SURFER * ANASTASIA ASHLEY LIVE d SOUTH BEACH

Uniquely grown in its native forest environment, Guayaki Yerba Mate is cherished as a sacred beverage.

Reach deep into yerba mate culture and you’ll discover people have long gathered to imbibe mate to awaken the mind, perform extraordinary feats and to exchange confidences.

Even Yari, the mythical goddess of mate decrees it the symbol of friendship.

Guayakí’s 2020 mission is to steward and restore 200,000 acres of South American Atlantic rainforest and create over 1,000 living wage jobs.

Co-Founder Alex Pryor hiking through the forest to the yerba mate cultivation

— Sp ri n g 2018 —

CONTENTS F E AT U R E S

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44

56

66

76

THE GREATEST STATE ON EARTH

DOWN IN THE GLADES

SHACKTOPIA

STILTED, JILTED AND RE-BUILTED

B Y K AT I E H E N D R I C K

B Y B O B H . LE E

From Jim Morrison to Jimmy Buffett, from rum runners to running horses and from spring break to spring training, we take stock of the iconic people, places, and traditions that make the Sunshine State the greatest place on earth.

The harrowing tale of Eastern Airlines Flight 401, which crashed into the Everglades 45 years ago, along with the singing flight attendant, the newlywed who lost his wife and the rookie game warden who plucked them from the swamp

A nostalgic culinary journey winds along the Gulf Coast, where old oyster shacks once thrived, overflowing with as much fresh, local personality as bi valves, shrimp and mullet. Tuck in with the families maintaining what’s left of that legacy with their deep-fried seafood platters. And don’t forget the hush puppies!

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B Y S T E V E D O L LA R

B Y N I LA D O S I M O N

Stiltsville, a cluster of structures standing one mile off the coast of Miami, has captivated Floridians for decades, with tales of its wild days as a Prohibition-era outpost. Today, the timeworn cabins have new meaning as a beloved community, a national park and an icon that harks back to simpler times in South Florida.

D E PA R T M E N TS

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41

92

WADING IN

COLUMNS

ON THE FLY

10 /// THE SPREAD: Sticky situations to create at home with your honey

41 /// C APITAL DAME: Diane Roberts spills on some of the state’s messy culinary battles.

17 /// M ADE IN FLA: Active water wear with a conscience and a posh new Palm Beach swim shop 27 /// BIRD’S-EYE VIEW: Our picks for the best eats, drinks and winks in adorably old St. Augustine 28 /// F LEDGLINGS: A young Tallahassean channels Bonnie Bramlett on national festival stages.

89 /// PANHANDLING: Prissy Elrod gets bugged out by Florida’s iconic critters.

96 /// F LORIDA WILD: Photographer Carlton Ward Jr. follows in the footsteps of a black bear for 1,000 miles.

32 /// O NE-ON-ONE: Pro surfer and model Anastasia Ashley on her Miami life in and out of the water 36 /// J UST HATCHED: Notable rooftops, resorts and rail transit popping up around the state

94 /// THE STUDIO: It’s 3 a.m. Gordie Hinds must be painting.

98 /// G ROVE STAND: Chef Kathleen Blake’s Rusty Spoon shines in the Orlando culinary scene.

102 /// F LAMINGLE: The Sunshine State’s boys of spring head home for the Grapefruit League.

104 /// THE ROOST: Jaw-dropping habitats informed by the style of Frank Lloyd Wright 108 /// T HE TIDE: Events worth leaving town for 112 /// F LORIDIANA: Key West’s (sort-of) southernmost point

Cover Photography by MARY BETH KOETH On the cover: Professional surfer, model and social media phenom Anastasia Ashley at Stiltsville’s A-frame house. Styling by: modelcitizen, swimsuit by Fleur Swim and top

by Faithfull; Makeup and Hair: Rachele Fialco

This spread: Ashley paddles near the historic site of Stiltsville, the Miami skyline still beckoning in the distance; Styling by: Gypset and Pearl, swimsuit by Eberjey; Makeup and Hair: Rachele Fialco

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wo years ago, Flamingo’s first issue launched with an ambitious theme, “Iconic Florida,” which captured the spirit of the magazine we wanted to create. Before Flamingo, the only iconic thing Florida lacked was a publication as grand as the state, with an authentic voice and a vision of bringing Floridians together.

Since volume No. 1, we’ve grown tremendously. I think it’s fitting to share our success with readers because it’s all due to you and your passion for Flamingo— for Floridians, by Floridians.

We know, for instance, that Floridians like what they read in our pages. Flamingo sells well— and many times sells out—on newsstands alongside national titles. While readers are buying the magazine in shops across the state, flamingomag.com buzzes with traffic from all over the nation. Flamingo’s social media growth is steady, all-natural and organic. (No paid-for bot followers in our feeds!) Advertising sales have grown 220 percent since that first issue, which we promoted with one bi-fold marketing piece (albeit a really fabulous one). Now we have an all-star sales team blowing up our ad pages and our website.

One of the most important measures of Flamingo’s success

is our subscriber base, which has quadrupled in two years. Every day the phone rings with an excited voice on the other line, explaining how they discovered the magazine from a friend, heard about us on NPR or picked up Flamingo on the newsstand in the Fort Lauderdale airport, a Barnes & Noble in Tampa or Midtown Reader in Tallahassee. People buy back issues—all of them—and collect them like books. No doubt, the momentum is exciting and rewarding.

From day one, Flamingo has been more than a print magazine.

We want you to consume our content however you like, on a screen or in the flesh. But one thing has proved true: Despite the boom in digital media, readers and advertisers both want that irreplaceable print experience.

People still want to touch our pages, peruse beautiful images and page layouts, and most of all, get lost in great stories about our state.

Storytelling is what drives us.

And we’ve had some amazing editorial wins. Flamingo premiered with an exclusive interview with Jeanette Rubio, wife of Senator Marco Rubio, then a candidate for president.

It was Jeanette Rubio’s first time sitting down one-on-one with any media outlet. Flamingo was also among a small group of national

magazines, including Rolling Stone, given an exclusive preview of Gregg Allman’s final album and access to his closest family and friends. Then there was Lilly Pulitzer! Floridians went crazy over our story on the Key West artists behind Pulitzer’s vintage prints, so much so that we only have 20 copies of that edition left. If you want one, it’s going to cost almost as much as one of her dresses! Most recently, we covered legendary Florida angler Flip Pallot whose wife, Diane, called the office to compliment the article. I have to say, that call made my month. The Pallots also passed along a story idea, which came to life in this issue. Can you guess which one?

Volume No. 9 is dedicated once again to “Iconic Florida,” which means so many things to so many people. In the process of bringing you these stories, we indulged in piled-high seafood platters in Florida’s Big Bend, revisited the site of a deadly plane crash in the Everglades, house-hopped through old Stiltsville, sipped rum runners in the Keys and retraced the footsteps of a black bear through 1,000 miles of Florida wilderness. We’ve had a blast. It’s time for you to do the same!

E dit o r in Ch ie f & P u blish e r

let us know what you think. Email me at jamie@flamingomag.com

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S P R I N G 2 0 1 8

PHOTOGR APHY BY LIBBY VOLGYES, INGRID DAMIANI, ST YLING BY ALIX ROBINSON

T

a spring in our step

An unmatched culinary experience Omni Amelia Island is thrilled to host its 5th Annual Fish to Fork weekend offering an unmatched “foodie” experience, including true dock-to-dish specialties in a fun, interactive atmosphere. The resort will welcome back six crowd-favorite chefs for an All Stars chef showdown ultimately tested with a live vote from event guests!

DAVEN WARDYNSKI

SHUAI WANG

Omni Amelia Island Plantation | Amelia Island, FL

Short Grain | Charleston, SC

JOEY WARD

KATHLEEN BLAKE

Gunshow | Atlanta, GA

The Rusty Spoon | Orlando, FL

RICHARD JONES

WAYLON RIVERS

Green Door Gourmet | Nashville, TN

Blacksheep | Jacksonville, FL

packages Available weekend Package may 18-20, 2018

• Luxurious oceanfront accommodations for two nights • Friday Cocktail Reception & Dinner • Saturday Lunch • Saturday Main Event • $1,459 per room based on double occupancy Main event PACKAGE may 19-20, 2018

• Luxurious oceanfront accommodations for one night

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• Saturday Main Event • $599 per room based on double occupancy

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ISSUE

CONTRIBUTORS

9

For Floridians. By Floridians.

• FOUNDED IN 2016 •

NILA DO SIMON is an award-winning journalist and editor. Nila has contributed to Marie Claire, The New York Times, Miami and Venice magazines. She was recognized by the Florida Magazine Association for best feature writing, as well as best feature headline writing, five times. In this issue of Flamingo, Nila spills the secrets of Stiltsville and profiles artist Gordie Hinds. When not writing about Florida’s arts and culture, the native Floridian has been known to throw a few elbows on the basketball court and hit a couple of forehand winners.

KATIE HENDRICK is a fifth-generation Floridian and lives in Tampa. Her work has appeared in national and regional platforms including Floral Management for the Society of American Florists, Popular Mechanics, Paste Travel, The Local Palate and Our State. Her article in Flamingo’s premiere issue, “Where Have All the Oysters Gone?”, was named the best feature at the 2016 Florida Magazine Association Awards. She is an alumna of Wake Forest University and the University of Florida. In this issue of Flamingo, she pens a feature on what she knows best, the icons of her home state.

MADDY ZOLLO RUSBOSIN is an Orlando-based writer and style expert. Having recently returned to the Sunshine State from New York City, she has appreciated trading in her winter coats and boots for sundresses and sandals. Beyond covering Flamingo’s Made in Florida section, the Florida native has written for Cosmopolitan, PeopleStyle, Seventeen, Southern Living, Town & Country, Women’s Health and Orlando magazine.

— s p r i n g 20 1 8 — Editor in Chief, Publisher, Founder JAMIE RICH jamie@flamingomag.com Consulting Creative Director Holly Keeperman holly@flamingomag.com Photo Editor and Senior Designer Ellen Patch ellen@flamingomag.com Contributing Editor Jeanne Craig Cont ributin g Writers Betty Cortina-Weiss, Steve Dollar, Prissy Elrod, Katie Hendrick, Chay Hughes, Morgan Jenkins, Nancy Klingener, Bob H. Lee, Laura Reiley, Diane Roberts, Maddy Zollo Rusbosin, Rob Rushin, Nila Do Simon, Sarah Clarke Stuart, Carlton Ward Jr. Contributing Photographers & Illustrators Leslie Chalfont, Beth Gilbert, Mary Beth Koeth, Stephen Lomazzo, Libby Volgyes, Carlton Ward Jr. Copy Editors & Fact Checkers Brett Greene, Katherine Shy Social Strategy Christina Clifford Marketing & Promotions Annie Lee Global Director Partnership Marketing Neil Strickland neil@globetm.com Global Director Partnership Marketing Claudio Dasilva claudio@globetm.com Advertising Sales Robert Kohn robert@flamingomag.com Intern Emma Jack Contact Us (904) 395-3272 • info@flamingomag.com TO GET A YEARLY SUBSCRIPTION (4 issues) go to flamingomag.com or send a $30 check made out to JSR Media LLC to P.O. Box 3253, Ponte Vedra Beach, FL 32004

BOB H. LEE retired as a lieutenant after 30 years with the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission. As a freelance writer, Bob has

All content in this publication, including but not limited to text, photos and graphics, is the sole property of and copyrighted by JSR Media and Flamingo. Reproduction without permission from the publisher is prohibited. We take no responsibility for images or content provided by our advertisers.

been published in Florida Sportsman, Florida Wildlife, International Game Warden and other publications. He is the author of two books, Backcountry Lawman and Bad Guys, Bullets, and Boat Chases (University Press of Florida).

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S P R I N G 2 0 1 8

JSR MEDIA

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— Flor idians, far e, f inds —

WADING IN — The Spread —

H o n e y, w h a t ’s a l l t h e b u z z a b o u t ?

— Made in Fla —

A swimwear roundup for the sustainably chic

— Bird’s-eye view —

Old faves and new finds in St. Augustine

— Fledglings —

A Ta l l a h a s s e e l a s s i e o n t h e j a m b a n d c i r c u i t

— One-on-one —

A n a s t a s i a A s h l e y ’s M i a m i v i c e

— Just Hatched —

OMNI AMELIA ISL AND PL ANTATION RESORT

The freshest places to see and be seen

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S P R I N G 2 0 1 8

From authentic adventures to one-of-a-kind experiences, Palm Coast and the Flagler Beaches are filled with opportunities to connect with nature.

Come fall in love with the area’s unique personality and unspoiled charm — your vacation is sure to be anything but ordinary.

www.VisitFlagler.com

WADING IN :THE SPREAD FLO R IDA-F R ESH BITES & BEVS B y S a ra h C l a rk e S t u a rt

Liquid GOLD ENTERTAINING INSPIRATION DRIPPING WITH FLORIDA FLAVOR

W

ith the Sunshine State in near-constant bloom, Florida honeybees stay busy almost year-round. Floridians have a long history of beekeeping. Right here in the swamps of Apalachicola, the gold standard of honey—tupelo—has been harvested since the 1800s. And every spring, the University of Florida hosts Bee College, a two-day workshop for both seasoned and aspiring beekeepers.

When chef Daven Wardynski arrived at the Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort five years ago, he brought his own knowledge of beekeeping and onsite food production from his years at the Omni Chicago, where he was executive chef. In Chicago, he incorporated as much hyperlocal produce as possible into his

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FLAMINGOMAG.COM /// S P R I N G 2 0 1 8

menu by maintaining a rooftop garden and to be different from the honey harvested harvesting honey nearby. In Amelia Island, on the north end of the island or the honey he established a large organic garden, an from Cumberland Island,” says Wardynski, aquaponics greenhouse, an who harvests honey two to apiary and The Sprouting three times a year. “The bees Project dinners, where guests will only fly about two miles THE SPROUTING experience the ultimate slowto collect pollen. So whatever PROJECT food, garden-to-table feasts. is in that vicinity is going to — LOCATION — OMNI AMELIA ISLAND The local bees’ liquid gold affect the flavor profile.”

PLANTATION RESORT elevates already popular menu The honey is also imbued — DINNERS — items like house-made ice with different tones every MONTHLY cream, served dripping with season. “Depending on the omnihotels.com honey caramel and honey time of year, you might get toffee atop a honey cake. For gallberry honey—amberlunch or dinner, the peach colored, light, floral—or in salad shines, with its honey vinaigrette and the middle of summer, when the palms Cohen Farm pecans. are blossoming, you might get honey Wardynski considers the local plant life’s as black as motor oil. It’s really buttery, impact on the flavors of his dishes. Honey earthy and rich.” varies not only from region to region, but Together, the chef and the bees create even within a few square miles. a welcome—and sticky—situation for any “The honey collected at the resort is going spring soiree.

Above from left:

Spring greens on the table at a Sprouting Project dinner; bees at work at Omni Amelia Island’s apiary Right: Chef Wardynski’s Florida peach salad

OMNI AMELIA ISL AND PL ANTATION RESORT

Opposite from left: Chef Daven

Wardynski; a honeycomb makes for an impressive dinner display.

Florida Peach Salad

SALAD

S e rv e s 4

8 ounces Sweet Grass Dairy Lil’ Moo cheese 1 head bibb lettuce 2 peaches, pitted and sliced 1 radish, cut into coins 1 bunch Italian parsley 1 ounce fresh chives 8 ounces candied pecans honey vinaigrette

HONEY VINAIGRETTE 1 cup apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup honey 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil PREPARATION: Mix the vinegar, honey and olive oil in a medium bowl. Set aside.

CANDIED PECANS 1 pound pecans 1/3 cup maple syrup 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon pinch of cayenne pepper

PREPARATION: Heat oven to 300 degrees. Toss the nuts, maple syrup, cinnamon and cayenne pepper together in a large mixing bowl, and spread the mixture in a single layer across a large baking sheet.

Bake for 12 minutes. Remove baking sheet from oven and allow to cool. Transfer to a container and set aside.

PREPARATION: Place a spoonful of cheese on each plate and top with lettuce and peaches.

Garnish with the radish coins, herbs and pecans.

Drizzle with honey vinaigrette and serve.

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WADING IN :THE SPREAD FLOR IDA-F R ESH BITES & BEVS B y S a ra h C l a rk e S t u a rt

Honey, I’m Good!

FROM BEEKEEPER TO BARTENDER, A CHEF SHARES HIS INSIGHTS

I

t’s been said that ingesting local honey may have medicinal benefits, such as treating allergy symptoms. But the main reason to reach for it in the kitchen and behind the bar is to soothe the soul with distinctive regional flavors that can be savored and sipped in culinary creations and cocktails.

Chef Daven Wardynski of the Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort is hands-on when it comes to local honey. He oversees the entire beekeeping process, from tending to and splitting hives to making the honey syrup that goes into the Omni’s Honey Old-Fashioned.

The golden hue of the drink and the honeycomb and orange peel garnishes evoke nostalgia while delivering the essence of the coastal Florida landscape in a glass.

Honey Old-Fashioned S e rv e s 1 3 ounces bourbon, such as Woodford Reserve 1 1/2 tablespoons honey syrup 10 dashes orange bitters orange twist

OMNI AMELIA ISL AND PL ANTATION RESORT

honeycomb PREPARATION: Mix bourbon, honey syrup and orange bitters and pour into an icefilled Old-Fashioned glass. Garnish with twist and honeycomb.

Note: To make honey syrup, combine equal parts honey and water.

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A DV E RTO R I A L

AG E D T O PERFECTION THE RELEASE OF BACARDÍ’S NEW BARRELAGED PREMIUM RUMS CELEBRATES QUALIT Y, HERITAGE AND SOPHISTICATED FLAVOR Not shaken, not stirred, BACARDÍ’s® new vibrant, elevated spirits have carved out a place at the modern bar for pedigreed sipping rums that stand all on their own.

BACARDÍ first created the original white rum 156 years ago. Since then, it’s become a global icon and the soul of the familyowned company. But the legendary distiller offers many more glasses worthy of toasting than just its Superior rum, beloved for mixing in cocktails.

“We are known for our white rum exclusively,” says Master of Rums David Cid. “But we craft other rums that are much more elaborate, complex and elegant.”

This spring, the company will unveil two new premium selections, BACARDÍ Añejo Cuatro, barrel-aged a minimum of four years, and BACARDÍ Gran Reserva Diez,

barrel-aged a minimum of 10 years. The new varieties translate into an adventurous drinking experience that will revolutionize the face of rum. Each of the offerings in the premium line were created for aspiring spirits connoisseurs who are looking for heightened sophistication and superior character in their drinking choices. BACARDÍ Añejo Cuatro is perfect for elevated cocktails, while BACARDÍ Gran Reserva Diez makes for a luxurious sipping rum.

An old favorite, BACARDÍ Reserva Ocho, with notes of wood, apricot, nutmeg and butterscotch, has remained a private family blend for more than seven generations but will debut a fresh look along with the release of the new rums. In addition, the extremely limited release BACARDÍ Reserva Limitada, a blend aged up to 16 years, presents excellently

served neat or over ice.

The packaging of each premium rum prominently displays its age, and the fluid architecture of the bottles conveys the warmth and tradition of BACARDÍ.

“Our aim is to ignite the resurgence of rum across the world,” says V.P. Brand Marketing Director of Rums Ned Duggan.

“We see our rum as more than a brand, and that’s why starting a dialogue around the premium rum movement is more than just business—it’s personal.

With our deep history and heritage, BACARDÍ has all the ingredients, product offerings and responsibility to usher in this new wave of premium rums.”

In the BACARDÍ story, the craftsmen play the leading role. The Maestros de Ron (Master Blenders) are the “gatekeepers and the heroes” in the production process because of their careful attention

LIVE PASSIONATELY. DRINK RESPONSIBLY.©2018. BACARDÍ, ITS TRADE DRESS AND THE BAT DEVICE ARE TRADEMARKS OF BACARDI & COMPANY LIMITED. BACARDI U.S.A., INC., CORAL GABLES, FL. RUM - 40% ALC. BY VOL.

A DV E RTO R I A L

to the rum’s maturation, according to Cid. They draw on seven generations of rummaking expertise, but the meticulously distilled liquid still takes time and a little help from Mother Nature to evolve into a finely blended, smooth, drinkable product.

“Maturation happens faster in warmer regions, such as the beautiful Caribbean home of BACARDÍ,” adds Duggan. “Our rums tend to age faster than most whiskies or scotches, which are typically aged in cooler

climates. Often, you’ll find that a rum has the same level of depth and character as a whisky or scotch that is

aged twice or three times as long.”

These mature varieties of rum open the door to a more sophisticated era.

Both BACARDÍ loyalists and spirit enthusiasts just discovering rum will fall in love with these diverse, exciting lines that deliver a bold new experience steeped in Latin heritage.

BACARDÍ’s history is deeply rooted in Cuba and the Caribbean, dating back to 1862, when Don Facundo Bacardí Massó founded the company in Santiago de Cuba. It remains a

family-owned business today, and the owners stay true to the brand’s historic craftsmanship.

Looking to the future, BACARDÍ continues to adapt, distilling its products in Puerto Rico and celebrating the vibrant energy of the Latin Caribbean.

“BACARDÍ is one of the oldest and most respected spirit brands in the world,” says Duggan.

“We’re thrilled to fuel the premium rum movement and launch a new, aged portfolio this spring that will lead the charge.”

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WADING IN :MADE IN FLA CONSE R V E

Science Flare

A Miami company merges science with style to make you care about water This page: Waterlust ambassador Ashleigh Baird swims in a spring in Mermaid Camo leggings.

Below: Waterlust partners Patrick Rynne and Fiona Graham aboard their self-made 17-foot sailing canoe

WATERLUST

AFTER HIS FIRST YEAR IN

a doctoral program at the University of Miami’s Rosenstiel School of Marine & Atmospheric Science, Patrick Rynne was looking for exciting ways to help others engage with science.

Deciding to merge his love of marine studies with his passion for video and social media, he filmed an experiment on riptides and posted it on YouTube. Soon after, Waterlust, a Miami-based content company, was born.

Relying on film and photography, Waterlust sheds

light on issues affecting Florida’s waters and wildlife.

“A big part of it has to do with how Floridians embrace the marine environment as part of everyday life and in education systems,” Rynne says of the brand’s mission.

To further its reach, Waterlust produces sustainable gear out of recycled plastic bottles. The leggings, shorts, sun masks and T-shirts, many of which have a 50-plus ultraviolet protection factor, are designed for wet adventures like diving, swimming, paddling and surfing. They’re printed

with patterns like tiger shark, whale shark and coral. Each print originated as photography taken on a research outing to the springs or the ocean, and a portion of the proceeds from all sales benefits scientific organizations.

“Very rarely do people digest content more than once,

so it has limited impact.

Whereas with the clothing, if you order a certain pair of leggings with a certain print, every time you wear that you’re going to think about the issue,” says Rynne.

“We find that our audience really becomes advocates to the issue.” waterlust.com —Maddy Zollo Rusbosin

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WADING IN :MADE IN FLA SUSTAI N

Bottle Service A sustainable apparel company turns trash into trunks

with his girlfriend, Isabella Cisneros, Ramiro Carranza had trouble finding a swimsuit. If the fit was right, the pattern was wrong, and vice versa.

Over margaritas during their stay, Carranza decided to solve this problem.

Inspired by their hotel’s sustainability and the experience of seeing local pelicans getting hold of plastic bags

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Above: The Seaboard trunks are made from 11 recycled plastic bottles.

Right: The Roo trunks’ pelican print speaks to the fact that seabirds ingest discarded plastic.

THE TROPIC S

BEFORE A TRIP TO TULUM, MEXICO,

and bottles from the ocean, the duo had an idea: to create their own line of swim trunks that would not only have the right fit and design but also help the environment.

“If we are going to manufacture something, we want it to be as sustainable as possible,” explains Cisneros of their thought process. “We wanted to be a part of the solution.”

More than a year later, in July 2017, they officially launched The Tropics.

With Carranza creating the designs and Cisneros handling operations, the company has rolled out 10 swim trunk designs along with T-shirts made from plastic bottles. To further their mission, the brand holds monthly beach cleanups throughout Miami.

Afterward, they ship the collected bottles off to a factory where the plastic is turned into a fiber that’s used for their suits. What’s next?

They want to become a hub for recycling in Miami.

“We want to be the wave of change for the pollution problem. The more we talk about it, the better chance we have of doing it,” says Cisneros. thetropics.co —MZR

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WADING IN :MADE IN FLA B y M a d d y Z o l l o R u sb o si n

Above: Newly opened Beach boutique located at The Royal Poinciana Plaza in Palm Beach

well-suited

E

verything But Water isn’t like most Florida swimsuit shops. Gone are the cheesy Hawaiian-print sarongs, Sunshine State–themed apparel and brightly colored plastic flip-flops. Instead, fashionforward beachwear, swimsuits, resort wear and accessories abound, proving that looking chic in the sand and surf is possible.

The decades-old company has come a long way from its humble beginnings. The first store, designed to attract savvy shoppers in

need of on-trend suits, was opened in a Central Florida outlet mall in 1985. Today, Everything But Water has surpassed typical swim retailers and transformed into a brand that represents the entire resort lifestyle. The company’s success is attributed to the husband-and-wife team of Randall Blumenthal and Sabra Krock, who took the helm eight years ago to reinvent the business and make it the vacation-apparel brand. With 100 locations across the country, including 23 in Florida, the retailer outfits

THE CONSCIOUS IMAGE/ THE ROYAL POINCIANA PL AZA , AMANDA PR AT T PHOTOGR APHY, DEVON JARVIS

Make waves at the beach club, pool and beyond in resort-ready swimwear from this Orlando company

stylish beachgoers from coast to coast. head to toe without leaving the store.

“We live and breathe this lifestyle 12 months What makes their approach stand out is of the year,” which is what sets Everything But the degree of thought that goes into each and Water apart from its competitors, explains every location. “We treat each store as a local Krock. “We not only have a 30-year history business with an eye toward that particular of in-depth understanding of what market, from how we staff it to fits and flatters in the swimwear the build of the store and every category, but also an amazing team other detail that goes into it,” BEACH that canvasses the market for the says Krock.

— LOCATION — most exciting new offerings.” From A fresh-faced example of how THE ROYAL POINCIANA PLAZA suits and Everything But Water tailors its 340 ROYAL POINCIANA WAY PALM BEACH cover-ups to boutiques is Beach, a store that — HOURS — accessories opened this past fall in The Royal MON–SAT 10 A.M.—6 P.M., SUN 12­—5 P.M. like hats, Poinciana Plaza in Palm Beach. everythingbutwater.com sunglasses “Beach is an offering catered to and the Palm Beach lifestyle. We have sandals, brands in the store that were the retailer’s deep bought uniquely for the location and one-ofinventory allows a-kind pieces,” says Krock. customers to style The shop’s modern white interior is themselves from flooded with natural light and lined with

Left: Everything But Water

co-owner Sabra Krock

Right: Miguelina kimono Below: Large tote,

pineapple straw clutch, Josephine Baker halter top with banana charms, Kaanas laser cut sandals and accessories

racks of bikinis, one-piece suits and wraps better suited for a posh Palm Beach beach club party than a day at the family pool. They have designer merchandise from labels like Roberta Roller Rabbit, known for its patterned designs, and Temptation Positano, an Italian label with luxe handmade pieces. For the discerning shopper who wants something special that she won’t see her friends wearing, Beach carries Two’s caftans and Nicole Schumann Designs’ jewelry. This is why the brand is so aptly named: It truly does have everything but water. everythingbutwater.com

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F L O R I D A ’ S O N LY S T A T E W I D E F E A T U R E M A G A Z I N E

For Floridians. By Floridians.

DON’t MISS the Boat!

SUBSCRIBE

For an annual subscription (4 issues) visit flamingomag.com for details or send a $30 check to JSR Media LLC, P.O. Box 3253 Ponte Vedra Beach, FL 32004 Questions? Call or email us: (904) 395-3272, admin@flamingomag.com.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JMAR BETH KOETH

flamingomag.com/subscribe

P RO M O T I O N

Above: The Bridge of Lions connects Anastasia Island to the Old City, both

brimming with new energy from local artists, chefs and business owners.

FEW PLACES IN THE WORLD ARE AS ICONIC AS ST. AUGUSTINE , from its marshy outposts to its beautiful beaches and deep into the city’s historic cobblestone village. Ancient landmarks like the Castillo de San Marcos, the St. Augustine lighthouse and Flagler College provide an irresistible destination for modern-day explorers. The Old City brims with quaint cafes, craft distilleries, eclectic bars, fine restaurants, food trucks and chic boutiques, as well as a thriving arts and culture scene with live music venues, museums and theaters at nearly every turn. A bounty of old and new treasures placed by legendary barons and contemporary tastemakers glitter like seashells on nearby Anastasia Island. Flamingo’s Spring 2018 City Guide highlights our favorite hangouts, haunts and historical places.

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P RO M O T I O N

St. Augustine ESTABLISHED: Over 450 years ago HIGHLIGHTS: St. Augustine and

nearby Ponte Vedra have attracted explorers from around the world since 1513. More than 42 miles of white sand beaches, crowned with swaying sea oats, beckon travelers to enjoy recreation and relaxation both on and off the water. Quaint bed-and-breakfasts offer old-town charm while luxurious seaside resorts provide an upscale beach retreat.

Meander through the historic quarter of St. Augustine to find cozy wine bars, contemporary art galleries and locally-sourced restaurants along centuries-old brick streets. Or walk along the scenic Bay Front, anchored by the city’s iconic Castillo de San Marcos, with gorgeous views of the Intracoastal Waterway and the Bridge of Lions.

MOTTO: Our history is not the same

old story.

NOTE: “We’ve lived in Ponte Vedra

for 19 years, but my family discovers something new with each visit to St. Augustine.” — Richard Goldman

LOCATION: Midway between Daytona and Jacksonville

FloridasHistoricCoast.com

Clockwise from top:

Anastasia State Park, Castillo de San Marcos, Ice Plant Bar

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P RO M O T I O N

Crème de la Cocoa OPENED:

June 2015

OWNERS:

Rowland

Bailey and Nils

Jenna Alexander Studio OPENED:

November 2013

OWNER:

Jenna Alexander

Inspired by Salt Run oysters harvested by her husband, Jenna paints the beautifully organic shaped shells because of her lifelong memories of sharing oyster roasts with friends, neighbors and family.

The Salt Run Series represents a life well-lived in community with one another.

SPECIALTIES:

SPECIALTIES:

LOCATION: 299 San Marco Ave., 904-466-9499

LOCATION: Gray 1908 at 73 San Marco Ave., (850) 384-3084

The luxe confectionary shop creates jaw-dropping cakes along with a plethora of homemade delights available for walk-ins.

Among the most popular treats: salted caramel or banana curry truffles; the Southern Belle, a riff on pecan pie; and the Florida Native, a twist on Key lime pie with pound cake, strawberry and orange.

cremedelacocoa.com

jenna-alexander.com

Declaration & Co. OPENED:

August 2010

OWNERS:

Kocerka

Lara and Steven

Lara makes, designs or curates every item in the store.

Her signature whimsical style shines through in her work, whether she’s creating candle scents and packaging from scratch or sketching a design for a T-shirt or note card. Find the perfect gift for that girl with a classic heart in this charming shop.

SPECIALTIES:

NOTE: “St.

Augustine offers so many wonderful places to eat, drink and shop. We are just happy to be a small part of it.” — Steven Kocerka LOCATION: 63 San Marco Ave., (904) 295-2476 declarationco.com

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P RO M O T I O N

Embassy Suites OPENING:

August 2018

Expect stylish design, high-quality finishings and refined comfort throughout the brand’s new property. It’s the closest beachfront resort to the historic district, with complimentary made-toorder breakfast, nightly receptions, a fitness facility, a splash park, an infinity pool, beach services and a signature seafood restaurant Harvest & Reel.

SPECIALTIES:

LOCATION: 300 A1A Beach Blvd., (904) 461-900

EmbassyStAugustine.com

The Floridian OPENED:

September 2010

OWNERS: Genie

McNally

and Jeff

SPECIALTIES: Old

Southern charm meets nautical vibes at this outstanding eatery reminiscent of your hip grandma’s house. Modern art, murals, and a signature giant crocodile pencil sketch adorn the walls. Locals crave the Shrimp (or fish or tofu) and Grits made with locally sourced everything and Pork & Waffles so good they’ve nearly incited riots.

LOCATION: 72 Spanish St. (904) 829-0655

thefloridianstaug.com

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The Rosy Cheek Beauty Bar & Apothecary OPENED:

July 2016

OWNER:

Jennifer M. Comee

Jennifer’s work as a professional makeup artist developed into a passion for smallbatch, vegan, organic or medicinal-grade beauty products. Her chic beauty bar, located inside the Anchor Boutique, carries lines like Ilia, RMS Beauty and Grown Alchemist.

SPECIALTIES:

LOCATION: 77 San Marco Ave. (904) 826-0965

therosy-cheek.com

ON THE FLY:BIRD’S EYE VIEW

A WA L K I N G G U I D E TO O U R FAVO R I T E N E I G H B O R H O O DS

The coolest City in old FLA

Meander through one of our favorite small towns with big style and flavor 1. PRESERVED

7. THE FLORIDIAN

2. THE COLLECTOR LUXURY INN & GARDENS The house

8. HYPPO POPS

Chef Brian Whittington combines European and Southern cuisine, serving bouillabaisse alongside shrimp and grits at the restored Jefferson House.

102 Bridge St.

12. an S o arc M

dates back to 1790, but the renovation in 2017 maintained its original art and history in every nook. 149 Cordova St.

d. lv B

3. BRIDGE OF LIONS 11.

10.

9.

1.

8.

. e St rlott Cha

ILLUSTR ATION: LESLIE CHALFONT

6.

St. King

3.

4.

2.

1.

t. ova S Cord

9. CATCH 27

Local fresh-caught seafood is served inside a quaint house or on the patio under twinkling lights.

40 Charlotte St.

4. CASA MONICA RESORT & SPA

10. ODD BIRDS BAR

5. KOOKABURRA COFFEE SHOP

5.

Perfectly fresh ingredients are mixed and frozen into pops like strawberry rose, melon and cracked pepper, and prickly pear. 48 Charlotte St.

The iconic drawbridge connects the Old City to Anastasia Island.

2010 A1A Scenic and Historic Coastal Byway

Built in 1888 and restored in 1999, the luxe hotel stands in the heart of the city.

95 Cordova St.

7.

At this Southern-divemeets-tiki-bar, Chef Genie McNally creates Florida-inspired dishes like B.L.T. pork belly caprese and pickled pepper shrimp.

72 Spanish St.

Calling all Kooks! Stop by the Aussie-inspired coffee shop for your espresso fix with a side of brekkie pie.

24 Cathedral Place

6. FLAGLER COLLEGE A liberal

arts college, with its main building built by Henry Flagler in 1888, anchors the historic district. 74 King St.

Enjoy a Capri Fun cocktail or an Old City Fashioned at the odd but awesome pop-up bar. 33 Charlotte St.

11. CASTILLO DE SAN MARCOS

The must-see original fort dating back to 1672 symbolizes the history that gives St. Augustine its Old City moniker.

1 South Castillo Drive

12. SHOPS OF SAN MARCO Don’t miss

this hive of indie shops: Declaration & Co., Cool & Collected, Juniper Market and Anchor Boutique. 73 San Marco Ave.

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WADING IN :FLEDGLINGS FLO RIDA MUSICIANS ON THE R ISE B y R o b R u sh i n

SOULSHINE A young Floridian inspired by the music of Bonnie Bramlett, Eric Clapton and Susan Tedeschi rocks festivals across the nation

T

allahassee-bred Katie Skene, 24, is a singersongwriter and guitarist making her mark on the blues and jam band scene. She couples stellar guitar chops with a rich voice that ranges from a throaty blues sound to clear high notes that ring like bells. With one superb solo record under her belt, From the River, Katie also plays with the recently minted jam band supergroup California Kind.

YOU’RE BASED IN LOS ANGELES. THAT’S A LONG WAY FROM TALLAHASSEE.

XXXXXXX

ks: I went out to go to University of Southern California. They have an amazing popular music performance program. I ended up doing that four-year program and decided to stay. My plan was to move to Atlanta because I didn’t think LA was the right fit for a blues background. Then I was like, I’m here, I really want to give it a chance and give it my best shot.

So I recorded From the River, and it ended up in the hands of the California Kind guys. It’s just been incredible. The timing was perfect and I got really lucky. But I’m hoping in April I can come home and go to the Wanee Music Festival and maybe set something up at the Bradfordville Blues Club.

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SPRING FEVER? YOUR VOCAL STYLE COVERS A LOT OF GROUND, FROM JANIS JOPLIN TO BONNIE RAITT AND BONNIE BRAMLETT. WHO ARE SOME OTHER HEROES YOU DRAW INSPIRATION FROM?

WE HAVE MANY CURES!

ks: Oh, thank you for the Bonnie Bramlett. My brother and I loved Delaney & Bonnie, and not enough people know about them. I really loved Clapton and B.B. King, and I was really into The Allman Brothers Band. Then I heard Susan Tedeschi, and I was like, I can do this, too. I started playing electric guitar pretty much because of her.

A little later, I found Bessie Smith, and she just knocked my boots off. I couldn’t believe her voice.

She was really the one, her and Otis Redding.

YOU TAKE YOUR HISTORY SERIOUSLY. I’VE HEARD YOU PLAY MISSISSIPPI FRED MCDOWELL, JOHN HURT AND NINA SIMONE. YOU DIDN’T HEAR THAT STUFF ON TOP 40 RADIO.

PHOTOGR APHY BY NELL TOMALIN SHERMAN, ST YLING BY SILKEN WEINBERG

ks: I was taking lessons from Mississippi James Stanton, who taught a lot of folks around Tallahassee. I’d bring him a song I wanted to learn, and he’d say, “Well, who wrote this? Who did it first, and who did it before that?” He really turned it into musicology. You don’t play something unless you know where it came from. You have to serve it.

FROM THE RIVER WAS A SERIOUS OPENING SALVO. WHAT DO YOU HAVE ON TAP AS A FOLLOW-UP?

ks: California Kind has recorded five songs. Two are being mixed right now. We’re probably going to release those as singles. We’ve got three more, new stuff I wrote that we really want to record. We have dates in March in Northern California and then out to Alaska to do a run up there. We’ll record between those dates. We’re going to do an album. I don’t know exactly how we’ll put it out. And then, well, we’ll just see where the road takes us.

Two championship courses offer 365 days of play at our luxurious oceanfront resort. The beach beckons with the quest to find shark’s teeth, a bike ride along its shore, or a kayak paddle in the sea. Har-Tru tennis courts, a fitness center, children’s programs, and ocean view pools are perfect spring break remedies.

Dining and lounge options abound. Our luxurious spa rejuvenates the soul. Beware, the rhythm of the sea, the ocean air, and the sand between your toes may keep spring fever in full bloom.

For more info visit: katieskene.com

PONTE VEDRA BEACH, FL 32082 | PONTEVEDRA.COM | (844) 648-8833

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2/2/18 10:58 AM

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A DV E RTO R I A L

your vacation vibe?

What’s

From adventure to romance and family fun to natural escapes, Panama City Beach has it all.

-FOR THE-

THRILL-SEEKER Jumpstart the morning flying through the air at

BEACHFRONT ADVENTURES

on a zipline, 60-feet off the ground, featuring gorgeous views of the Gulf of Mexico.

Want something steeper?

Head to SHIPWRECK ISLAND WATERPARK , home to rapids, a lazy river and the TREE TOP DROP, a set of two slides that stand 65 feet high, one coiling in circles and the other with a straight plummet to the finish.

For a well-earned lunch, head to BILLY’S OYSTER BAR & CRAB HOUSE and enjoy some fresh local seafood at this beloved classic.

-FOR THE-

FAMILY

Shake off the sand and head to the M.B. MILLER COUNTY PIER for a stroll on the boardwalk or fishing off the pier.

SCHOONERS, situated right on the beach, is the locals’ choice for relaxing with a cup of house-made gumbo or a good old-fashioned burger. Afterward, grab an ice cream at PIER PARK, a large outdoor shopping and entertainment center with a wide variety of fun.

Take the family fun indoors at RIPLEY’S BELIEVE IT OR NOT, the famous museum of oddities, or WONDERWORKS kid’s science museum.

-FOR THE-

ECOTOURIST

Panama City Beach has some of the best SCUBA DIVING in the region, with five super reefs teeming with marine life. AIRBOAT ADVENTURES tour of the area’s backwaters and marshlands makes the perfect perch for spotting all kinds of wild life from bald eagles to dolphins.

For lunch, picnic at CAMP HELEN STATE PARK among 185 acres of ecological wonder. Bicycle through scenic CONSERVATION PARK and take in the sunset at SHERATON BAY POINT RESORT, recently renovated to perfection.

-FOR THE-

ROMANTIC

Start off right by reserving a room at the beautiful CARILLON BEACH RESORT INN.­Ask for one of the resort’s king suites, which feature a fireplace and private hot tub on the balcony. Cruise over to SHELL ISLAND, an unspoiled barrier island, or unwind at the PANAMA CITY BEACH WINERY, where more than 30 specialty wines are made from local Florida fruits. Top off the evening at the awardwinning FIREFLY with a plate of baked oysters at a table for two under a grand oak tree wrapped in twinkling lights.

MAKE IT MEMORABLE MAKE IT EXHILARATING MAKE IT ROMANTIC MAKE IT fun MAKE IT YOURS!

Panama City Beach has so much family fun, heart-pounding action, ecoadventure and romance, the memories you make here will last a lifetime.

Come make Panama City Beach your REAL. FUN. BEACH. Plan your fun getaway today.

VisitPanamaCityBeach.com

WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE CO N VE RSATIONS, INTERVIEWS, STOR IES

By J am i e R i ch • P h o t o g ra p h y b y M a ry B et h K o et h H a i r a n d m a k e u p b y R a c h e l e F i a l co / S t ylin g b y mod elcit izen / Jew elry b y Crest a Bled soe F in e Jew elry

MIAMI SWELL B Pro surfer and social media star Anastasia Ashley on surfing South Beach, owning 1,500 bikinis and catching waves with Florida icon Kelly Slater

Below: Ashley shares her

passion for surfing wth her 1.1 million social media followers.

Swimsuit by Fleur Swim

y the age of 6, Anastasia Ashley had taught herself to surf with a beat-up board she’d found tossed away as trash. It helps that she grew up with her mom near two iconic surf breaks in Hawaii, while her dad lived in the other surfing mecca, Southern California—she split her time between both. The young surfing prodigy has racked up more than a few impressive awards in her career so far, including the 2003 Triple Crown rookie of the year (at age 16), the 2005 Professional Surfing Tour of America Championship and the 2010 Pipeline Women’s Pro, shortboard division, in which she is the athlete with the most finalist appearances overall.

Last spring, the professional athlete, model and social media force—who has more than 1.1 million Instagram followers—packed up her surfboards and (just a few) bikinis and left Orange County, California, for the warmer waters of Miami Beach. Flamingo recently spent an afternoon buzzing around Biscayne Bay with Anastasia, soaking up sun on a boat and chatting about her life in the Sunshine State.

SO WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO FLORIDA?

AA: I’ve always loved Florida. In the last 10 years, I’ve almost moved here quite a few times. It’s such a beach culture in the sense that everyone walks around in their bikinis and flip-flops, and that’s what I’m all about.

WHERE DO YOU SURF IN MIAMI?

AA: The surfing spot is basically on First Street and the south end of South Beach.

It’s a pretty cool view, looking back and seeing classic Miami Beach. And everyone so far is pretty friendly in the line-up, and welcoming.

HAVE YOU TRAVELED MUCH OUTSIDE OF MIAMI?

AA: Yeah, I go up to Palm Beach, Lantana,

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This page: Ashley, a resident

of South Beach, has more appearances than any athlete in the Pipeline Women’s Pro’s shortboard division, which she won in 2010.

Suit by Fleur Swim

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WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE CO N VE RSATIONS, INTERVIEWS, STOR IES

Jupiter. I feel like there’s actually a lot of really cool surf towns in Florida the more north you go.

YOU’RE NOT COMPETING RIGHT NOW. HAVE YOU RETIRED FROM SURFING?

AA: No, I haven’t said that.

I don’t want to be one of those people who say they are retired and then come back and surf another event. I would still love to do some events. My schedule in the last couple of years, it’s been pretty crazy. If I compete, I want to focus 100 percent on it and do my best. It takes a lot of work and training. In my career, I’ve been very happy with the things I’ve done, and it’s hard to go back and try to do better if you’re not 100 percent in it.

WHAT’S ON THE HORIZON FOR YOU PROFESSIONALLY?

AA: My goal is first and foremost to be a good role model and to inspire people of any age to be more active. I really enjoy working on more projects that give back. I would love to do a surf camp.

WHAT WAS IT LIKE SHOOTING FOR THE SPORTS ILLUSTRATED SWIMSUIT EDITION IN 2014?

Above: Ashley’s

favorite swimsuit brands are Mikoh and Montce.

Swimsuit by Fleur Swim, Top by Faithfull

AA: They’re such a great company to work for. To be a part of the swimsuit issue was such an honor.

They do a really good job, especially now, at showcasing different women and different body types. It’s definitely one of my favorite shoots of all time.

DO YOU HAVE ANY MUST-HAVES WHEN IT COMES TO BIKINI FIT? AA: Definitely. Having bikinis that are well-fitted

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and tight, I think, is the number one thing. All the bikinis I wear have to be sport-proof because I’m someone who will throw on a bikini in the morning, and whether I go swimming, hop in the water or go to the gym, I usually don’t take that thing off until the evening. At one time, I probably had over 1,500 bikinis. But I would wear probably the same five.

WHO ARE YOUR ROLE MODELS?

AA: Definitely Kelly Slater. He’s been a longtime influence on me. He’s arguably the best surfer in the world.

He’s very smart and business savvy and really has done a lot for the sport overall—both from a performance level and making the sport bigger.

And Lisa Anderson was one of the first female surfers to draw a lot of attention and really was an innovator. They’re both Florida people.

HAVE YOU HAD A CHANCE TO SURF WITH KELLY SLATER?

AA: Yeah, it’s great to surf with him. It’s always pretty easy just to be in awe and not even get waves yourself. Just to watch him is such an honor. Usually, when the waves are good in any given place or time, whether it be in California or Hawaii or anywhere in the world, he will be there. He has a great sense of where the best waves are anywhere in the world.

YOU MUST HAVE SLATER’S SAME SENSE, IF YOU’RE WHERE THE BEST WAVES ARE, TOO. AA: I try to be.

t h Annu al 5 5

PIRATES • ANTIQUES • FIREWORKS FOOD • ARTS & CRAFTS • KIDS FUN ZONE ENTERTAINMENT • CONTESTS AND MORE!

Fernandina Beach, FL • May 4–6, 2018

PIRATES PARADE • THURSDAY, MAY 3 • 6:00PM @SHRIMPFESTIVAL

shrimpfestival.com SPRING 2018

/// FLAMINGOMAG.COM

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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (NORTH) DEFINE BODY & MIND JACKSONVILLE BEACH

Businesswomen and fitness enthusiasts Kelly Kuntz and Julianne Klempf have brought one of America’s most successful exercise studio concepts to the Sunshine State.

Their enterprise is the new Define Body & Mind, whose Jacksonville Beach location is the 18th shop to open in the United States (there’s also one in Dubai). Members experience the brand’s holistic approach to physical and mental wellbeing. The studio focuses on five areas, with yoga, highintensity cycling sessions, a meditative mind-hammock class (think: yoga using a fabric swing), a multidisciplinary body sculpting class and the cardio-boosting “bounce” regimen (aka trampolines). jacksonville.definebody.com

DOG ROSE BREWING CO. SAINT AUGUSTINE

Craft beer auteur Doug Murr has been a force in St. Augustine since 2001, when he started running the A1A Ale Works brewery.

36

When the business phased out its brewing operation last year, Murr decided to launch his own brewery and bought all of his former employer’s equipment for the new enterprise. Dog Rose, an elegantly appointed 5,000-square-foot brewery and taproom that abuts St. Augustine’s historic downtown and the vibrant Lincolnville community, is a showcase for Murr’s signature beers.

Murr’s got lots on tap for the adventurous—Stout de Mole, a beer made with poblano peppers and cocoa and a gin-inspired jenever lager—but likes to focus on classic styles.

“Fun is fun,” he says, “but sometimes it’s nice to just get a beer.” facebook.com/DogRose-Brewing-Co

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THE HAWTHORN TA L LA H A S S E E

Many Tallahassee natives remember the old Jitney Jungle grocery store from the 1960s.

The store’s site has enjoyed a 21st-century renaissance as a food-and-beverage hub,

home to Fuma Cigar Social, Liberty Bar & Restaurant and local java franchise Lucky Goat Coffee. Seven Hills Hospitality Group, which owns the Liberty and nearby tacos-and-tequila restaurant El Cocinero, has added a new

RIVER & POST, DEFINE BODY & MIND, ZENO’S WORLD’S FAMOUS TAFF Y FAC TORY

Above: Panoramic views from River & Post’s rooftop in Jacksonville Below right: A peek inside with River & Post owner Jeff McCusker Below left: Clients enjoy some hang-time in a mind-hammock class at Define Body & Mind in Jacksonville

refined dining restaurant next door to its flagship pub. The Hawthorn offers a creative spin on Southern cuisine with a dedication to locally sourced produce and quality meats.

Entrees include Gulf Coast grouper poached sous vide, while the array of small plates features a lamb crepe and butternut squash toast. hawthorntlh.com

RIVER & POST JACKSONVILLE

Sweeping rooftop vistas of downtown Jacksonville and the St. Johns River are only part of the appeal at restaurant and bar River & Post, which takes its name from its location at the corner of Riverside Avenue and Post Street. Nine floors up, a rooftop lounge offers patrons that captivating civic panorama. And the restaurant on the first floor backs up the scenery with a satisfying and traditional surf-and-turf menu, along with flavorful treats such as curried coconut conch chowder (say that three times real fast), cola-braised pork belly sliders and truffled steak tartare. riverandpostjax.com

(C E N T RA L ) IMAGINE MUSEUM ST. PETERSBURG

The brainchild of Bay Area glass artist Trish Duggan, this 35,000-square-foot exhibition center, located on St. Petersburg’s Central Avenue, is a permanent showcase for 550 works of American studio glass. That collection, which dates back to the early 1960s and the pioneering efforts of artists like Dominick Labino and Harvey K. Littleton, will be

Explore everything from unique wildlife to exciting nightlife.

Above: Taffy time at Zeno’s World’s

Most Famous Taffy Factory

joined by traveling exhibits of glass works from international artists. Duggan’s cohorts include the museum’s executive director Nate Jessup and senior consultant Joanna Sikes, a longtime associate of master glass sculptor Dale Chihuly—the signature focus of the Chihuly Collection at the nearby Morean Arts Center. imaginemuseum.com

ZENO’S WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS TAFFY FACTORY D AY T O N A B E A C H

Purveyor of the iconic “World’s Most Famous Taffy,” Zeno’s was named in homage to owner Johnny Louize’s father, who ran a boardwalk gift shop under the same slogan. (It’s also the name of Louize’s son.) The family tradition, dating from 1948, shines in candy-colored confections of all kinds, from cashew brittle to the crunchy, melty caramel delight of sea foam made from an heirloom recipe.

The celebrated taffy comes in what’s practically a crayon box of hues, a treat for the eyes as well as the sweet tooth. Zeno’s World’s Most Famous Taffy Factory was recently expanded to the sugary boardwalk empire, sharing the wonderment of candy making through tours, a retail store and even parties. worldsmostfamoustaffy.com

Download our Visitors Guide at VisitWestVolusia.com

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-

WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (C E N T RA L ) CELINE

O R LA N D O

Above: Orlando’s Celine attracts a vibrant crowd with nightly live music, a speakeasy and a rooftop terrace.

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On the scene since its big New Year’s Eve launch, Celine is the latest project from the Team Market Group, which has also brought Tier, Ono and Mathers Social Gathering to Orlando.

The downtown nightspot flaunts four different spaces, each with its own vibe. The ballroom hosts an array of concerts by country, rock, EDM and hip-hop artists, which you can watch from the mezzanine’s private bar. A speakeasy lounge charms with Prohibition-era decor and themed cocktails. And a rooftop deck is designed to host private

WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (SOUTH) events as well as weekly parties. celineorlando.com

RH ROOFTOP RESTAURANT W E S T PA L M B E A C H

CELINE, COURTESY OF RH, HUTCHINSON SHORES RESORT & SPA , BRIGHTLINE

All right, all right, all right.

Cultural icon Matthew McConaughey was on site to celebrate the opening of RH West Palm, The Gallery at City Place—Restoration Hardware’s sprawling 80,000-square-foot luxury home furnishings gallery— when it launched late last year.

High above its immersive retail showroom, the $26-million development is crowned by the rooftop restaurant, a leafy atrium decked out with olive trees, a courtyard fountain and bluestone herringbone floors.

After perusing the glittering store, diners can kick back and nibble a selection of cheeses, dig into a lobster roll or just sip an RH Bellini. The elegance comes via RH Hospitality’s founding president Brendan Sodikoff, whose restaurants include Chicago’s Doughnut Vault and New York’s 4 Charles Prime Rib. Tell ’em Mac sent ya. rh.com

HUTCHINSON SHORES RESORT & SPA JENSEN BEACH

Taking their cue from the ocean just outside their doors, the

Above: The stunning RH Rooftop Restaurant in West Palm Beach Below left: The lobby in the Hutchinson Shores Resort & Spa has two dancing blue marlins. Below right: The new Brightline train eases the morning commute.

178 guest rooms in this lavish getaway reflect aquatic nature’s own array of colors in shades of blue, green and pearl. The resort, occupying a sweet spot on Florida’s Treasure Coast, is the first of its kind to open in 20 years on Jensen Beach, an often overlooked oasis that has been acclaimed as one of the top spots for beach volleyball. It’s also famous by another name, “Sea Turtle Beach,” thanks to all the loggerheads that flock there to lay their eggs. If turtlewatching gets too slow, there’s plenty on tap at the resort, including endless beachside frolics, spa sessions, two pools, and the Drift Kitchen + Bar, an American bistro specializing in fresh seafood. hutchinsonshores.com

BRIGHTLINE

W E S T PA L M B E A C H T O F T . LA U D E R D A L E MIAMI (COMING SOON)

stations also serve as fun gathering points for travelers.

MiamiCentral, for example, will host a food hall with more

The Brightline train service plans to simplify transit through South Florida. Each centrally located station in downtown West Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale and Miami is built to service both commuters and day trippers. The service boasts 60-minute trips from West Palm Beach to downtown Miami and 30-minute trips between Fort Lauderdale and Miami.

While the modern rail cars offer welcome respite from congested highways and nightmarish traffic jams, the Brightline

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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (SOUTH) than 20 vendors, including an 800 Degrees Pizzeria and Rosetta, an authentic Italian bakery. As befits its South Florida route, the Brightline trains aim to be as fashionable as they are functional. gobrightline.com

GET KEY-ZEE

Beloved resorts and hot-spots in the Keys are back in business and more beautiful than ever

STUBBORN SEED MIAMI BEACH

Above: Chef Jeremy Ford ups the culinary ante in Miami Beach with Stubborn Seed.

include Jojo tea–cured cobia (with sorrel, celery, clementine and hearts of palm) and, for dessert, corn pavlova (corn custard with white meringue).

The cozy dining space seats 74 in a building designed in Miami’s art deco tradition. stubbornseed.com Left: Wahoo appetizer

at Stubborn Seed

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Above: It doesn’t get better than the oceanside porch at The Moorings Village.

— ISLAMORADA —

— BIG PINE KEY —

The Moorings Village Reopened January 2018 themooringsvillage.com

Big Pine Key Fishing Lodge Reopened November 2017 bpkfl.com

Pelican Cove Resort Reopened February 2018 pelicancovehotel.com

No Name Pub Reopened October 2017 nonamepubestore.com

Amara Cay Resort Reopened December 2017 amaracayresort.com

— KEY LARGO —

La Siesta Resort & Marina Reopening in March 2018 lasiestaresort.com

Ocean Pointe Suites Reopening March 2018 providentresorts.com/oceanpointe-suites

Postcard Inn Beach Resort Reopening in March 2018 holidayisle.com

Jules’ Undersea Lodge Reopened December 2017 jul.com

ChEEca Lodge & Spa Reopening in March 2018 cheeca.com

Dolphin Point Villas Opened December 2017 dolphinpointvillas.com

GROVE BAY HOSPITALIT Y, THE MOORINGS VILL AGE

Jeremy Ford, season 13 winner of Top Chef, applies his culinary celebrity and gustatory skills to his first signature kitchen, the latest foodie hot-spot to hit Washington Avenue, Miami Beach’s restaurant row.

Stubborn Seed is the fruition of an 18-year love affair with cooking, which began when the Jacksonville native was only 14. The menu offers a chef’s tasting selection of eight courses or a la carte dining, with dishes that

— Unf ilter ed Fodder —

Capital Dame

By Di ane R o b ert s • I l l u st ra t i o n b y S t ep h en L o m a zzo

FOOD FIGHT

The historic culinary battles stirred up by Florida lawmakers over Key lime pie, mullet pizza and Apalachicola Bay oysters IN FLORIDA, FOOD IS PERSONAL. And political. If I’m in a seafood place and oysters are on the menu, I ask where they’re from. There’s only one right answer: Apalachicola. No Apalachicola, no eat. I feel kind of bad for the server, who thinks she’s got a demented customer at table six, but no Floridian should ever be reduced

to consuming oysters from Texas or Louisiana when the best bivalves on this planet come from the sunny, shallow Gulf water fed by the Apalachicola River.

I guess it’s obvious that Floridians can be pretty intense about our grub. Perhaps you recall the scandal in 2006 when investigative reporters from the St. Petersburg Times went undercover

to reveal that much of the “grouper” served in restaurants around the state was actually Asian catfish. Or hake. Or some no-name mystery fish entirely lacking proper immigration documents. Fingers were pointed. Hissy fits were pitched. Grouper (and “grouper”) disappeared from menus for months afterward.

And what about the epic 18-year struggle

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Capital Dame UNF ILTER ED FODDER

in the legislature to choose an official only for poor folks, a bottom feeder best smoked state pie? Back in 1988, lawmakers from or fried up immediately and served with hush South Florida insisted that Key lime was puppies. No one has ever posed for a the obvious choice. Lawmakers from the triumphant dockside photo northern counties, however, countered that with his trophy mullet. pecan pie would be more representative But mullet has been of Florida as a whole. A few legislators, the subject of surreal largely from the environs of Plant City, zoological disputes pressed for strawberry, but they were and ambitious attempts quickly outmaneuvered by the nut and citrus at rebranding. In 1919, six factions. Things got so bitter that legislators young men were arrested for fishing postponed the important state pie decision. out of season in Tampa Bay. They didn’t have Then, in 1994, citrus agitators blindsided the any money, but a young lawyer named Pat nut people and pushed through a resolution Whitaker offered to take their case for free. declaring Key lime pie “an important Whitaker read up on mullet and hit on the symbol of Florida,” escalating the pie fight. perfect legal theory: Those boys couldn’t be Outraged, the Florida Pecan Growers arrested for catching fish because mullet aren’t Association retired to lick their wounds. fish. Mullet are, in fact, chickens.

The pie fight heated up again in 2006, Whitaker produced a pile of scientific but the Pecanistas lost once again to the literature in court. Unlike all other fish, mullet Key Limers. Pecans, with their Old South have gizzards. Poultry have gizzards. Ergo, plantation associations and disputed mullet are actually birds. Who knows if the pronunciation (“pee-can” or “pick-ahn”?), judge was dazzled by Whitaker’s argument or just couldn’t compete. The pale gold laughing too hard to fool with procedure— confection topped with blowtorch-browned anyway, he dismissed the case. meringue triumphed; it was celebrated as Claude Kirk, the first Republican governor representative of Florida’s sun and fun, of Florida since Reconstruction and a the perfect accompaniment to a self-described “tree-shaking son cocktail with a parasol stuck in it. of a bitch,” decided the state The citrus lobby cited the fruit’s was missing out on a great heritage: Like all Florida citrus, the economic opportunity. In the Key lime was brought late 1960s, he tried to over by the Spanish make canned mullet Pecans, with their almost 500 years ago. a thing. I mean, why Old South plantation They relied on it to should tuna get all the associations and stave off scurvy. You love? Kirk rebranded disputed pronunciation can, too. mullet as “lisa,” the (“pee-can” or “pick-ahn”?), The Key lime pie Spanish word for the just couldn’t compete. is now on the official fish. He descended on roster of state stuff, along with the state my school in Tallahassee at lunchtime one day freshwater fish (largemouth bass), saltwater and, in front of a group of photographers, made fish (sailfish), fruit (orange), beverage (orange a great show of eating a dish the cafeteria called juice), flower (orange blossom), soil (Myakka “lisa pizza.” My fifth grade comrades and I were fine sand), and shell (horse conch). appalled. Lisa pizza tasted like the inside of a Florida’s got a long history of food fights. garbage can and smelled like a week-old pile of Consider the mullet, long seen as a fish fit fish heads.

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Needless to say, canned mullet did not become a “Fresh From Florida” product. But that doesn’t mean we hate mullet.

We love mullet—to catch, to eat, especially to throw.

At the Flora-Bama Lounge and Package Store on Perdido Key, people get liquored up and try to chuck dead mullet over the Alabama state line. Billed as the “Interstate Mullet Toss & Gulf Coast’s Greatest Beach Party,” anyone, from toddlers to seniors, can compete. Bikini-clad young women vie for the coveted title of “Miss Mullet Toss.” Oceans of beer are consumed. Tons of fish are thrown.

If you’re lucky, you will see guys with mullets hurling mullets. Peak Florida.

At the other end of the state, fancy restaurants are getting famous for nouvelle Cuban and Salvadoran-Filipino-Haitian fusion, while beach joints now concoct sushi out of items Old Salts would call “bait.” We’re not just catfish and cheese grits any more. Yet despite the everelevated haute-ness of Florida cuisine, some of our most iconic foods are barely food at all. I speak specifically of the orange bubble gum that used to be sold at the Citrus Tower in Clermont.

The pieces came in the form of tangerinecolored balls in a mesh bag and smelled every bit as natural as strong detergent. But they were so shiny! So pretty! The coconut patties— plain or pina colada flavor, made by Anastasia Confections, a proud Florida company—were also delish, to say nothing of the Choc-O-Gators.

You can still find these tasty, if not particularly nutritious, items in certain emporiums off Interstate 75. But I cherish the orange gum as a true Florida atrocity, sweet yet delivering a note of aluminum foil on the tongue. We’d buy a bag, ride the elevator to the top of the Citrus Tower and gaze out over acres and acres of groves, chewing manically to keep our ears from popping at the mighty 226-foot height.

Now the groves have turned to theme parks and subdivisions, the orange bubble gum is a

pale imitation of its chemically dubious former Thanks to the water hogs of Georgia and self, and much of the cheerful tackiness of Old the Army Corps of Engineers’ reluctance Florida has given way to tasteful restraint and to do anything about the problem, the flow culinary “authenticity.” of fresh water through the ApalachicolaNot that I have anything against authentic Chattahoochee-Flint river system down food (though restraint is a different matter to the Apalachicola keeps decreasing. The entirely). Indeed, the most Florida of Florida oysters—to say nothing of all the other life foods, the most exquisite and voluptuous, is in this fantastically diverse ecosystem—need also the most authentic: the Apalachicola Bay fresh water to live. The sweet water from the oyster. Nothing—not Key lime pie or smoked Apalachicola River mixes with the salt water mullet dip, conch fritters or stone crabs, pink from the Gulf to make a magical cocktail, shrimp or even a fresh Cubano made at a little perfect for oysters. If the water gets too place on Calle Ocho—compares with saline, oyster predators thrive and the pride of the Gulf of Mexico, oysters die. the wild, hand-harvested oyster The fate of the oysters found in the 208 square miles is now in the hands of the of warm sea between Indian United States Supreme Pass and Yent Court. That’s Bayou. There are how important despite the ever-elevated nice oysters from this critter is. haute-ness of Florida cuisine, other places in the Florida has some of our most iconic foods world: Denmark, sued Georgia are barely food at all.

Galway, the Pacific over the Northwest, Maine. upstream water.

I have nothing against them. It’s just that the A special master ruled in Georgia’s favor, but oysters from that little bay at the bottom of Apalachicola has one last shot in front of the that great river are the bomb. The top. The ne highest court in the land. In the meantime, plus ultra. If oysters ate oysters, Apalachicolas I’m going to take every opportunity to get would be the ones they’d choose. my hands on a dozen raw ones and consume Floridians have been eating these oysters them the way God intended them to be for a good 10,000 years. Paleo-Indians not consumed, tasting of the sea and the sunlight, only ate them but also used the shells in thousands of years of history and epicurean middens. Spanish conquistadors ate them; joy in one handsome bivalve. Forget the state the Seminoles and runaway slaves who pie, the state fruit, the state fish and all that found refuge from Alabama and Georgia nonsense: We should make the Apalachicola plantations on the Apalachicola River ate Bay oyster the state icon. them; rich planters in Florida’s cotton belt would send someone in a wagon to buy them Diane Roberts is an eighthby the bushel. I grew up eating them the way generation Floridian and other people would eat popcorn. They were was educated at Florida numerous and cheap, big, fat and sweet. And State University and Oxford University. A longtime NPR they were ours—our own product, beloved commentator, her work has all over the world, but special to North appeared in The New York Times, The Floridians. If you can get your hands on some Guardian and the Tampa Bay Times. She has also authored four books, including Dream State, a Apalachicola oysters, eat them. You may not historical memoir of Florida, and Tribal: College get another chance.

Football and the Secret Heart of America.

Roasted in Jacksonville, FL. Shipped to your Door.

15% off coffee orders with code: BOLDFLAMINGO www.boldbeancoffee.com Jax Beach 2400 South 3rd St.

Riverside 869 Stockton St.

San Marco 1905 Hendricks Ave.

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FLORIDA STATE VMIND It’s impossible to point to one single icon that lays bare the diverse, rooted, complicated, beautiful, wacky soul of the Sunshine State. In our annual homage to those forces, past and present, that conjure the true spirit of our home—from Jim Morrison to Jimmy Buffett, from rum runners to running horses, from hurricanes to home runs and from natural springs to spring break—we take stock of the people, places and traditions that make Florida the greatest state on earth.

By KATIE HENDRICK

PHOTOGR APHY BY KEITH NOVOSEL

Surfing Eleven-time world champion surfer Kelly Slater hails from Cocoa Beach, so it comes as no surprise that his hometown ranks among Florida’s most revered surf spots. To find it, just follow the billboards for Ron Jon Surf Shop that dot I-95 in both directions.

Buffered by Cape Canaveral, Cocoa’s waves roll in small and gentle—perfect for groms ready to get their feet wet.

More seasoned shredders line up south of the Ponce de Leon Inlet at N E W S MYR N A B E A C H , which consistently sees waves in the two- to three-foot range, or up at Jacksonville’s N O RTH J E T T Y AT H U G U E N OT PA R K , where longboarders like Justin Quintal can ride long, peeling right-handers. “On a big hurricane swell, the jetties can have a really epic wave for shortboarding too,” says Evan Thompson, a former member of the USA Surf Team and owner of Thompson Surf School in Jacksonville Beach, bragging on his alltime favorite surf spot. For an exceptional view, visit P L AYA L I N D A B E A C H , situated in the Canaveral National Seashore, with a clear line of sight to NASA’s launch pad. Want to watch the sport’s all-stars and up-and-comers in action?

Check out S E B A STI A N I N L E T , a favorite break for professional and amateur competitions alike. Honorable mentions go to F I R ST STR E E T in Miami’s South Beach and R E E F R O A D in Palm Beach.

This page: Surfer

Evan Thompson rides an epic barrel at Jacksonville beach

Spring! Spring!

Spring!

Tales of Old Florida

The Greatest Show on Earth John Ringling’s decision in 1927 to move his circus’s winter headquarters from Bridgeport, Connecticut, to Sarasota brought the once-sleepy Gulf Coast community national acclaim, economic prosperity and the most fascinating snowbirds the state has ever known.

Tightrope walkers, trapeze artists, fire-eaters, swordswallowers, giants, midgets, contortionists, strongmen and exotic animals galore drew hundreds of thousands of visitors, many of whom fell in love with the area in the process. “Sarasota’s growth has everything to do with having housed this huge entertainment center in our backyard,” says Deborah Walk, a circus curator for the John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art. Cecil B. DeMille Above: immortalized A vintage the town and Ringling its unique Brothers poster from 1901 institution

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with The Greatest Show on Earth, the winner of the 1952 Academy Award for best picture, starring Charlton Heston, James Stewart and dozens of actual circus performers, including Emmett Kelly the clown and aerialist Antoinette Concello. In 1959, the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus moved to nearby Venice, where it stayed until 1992, when it was relocated to Tampa. The 146-year-old company ended its run in May 2017, but its legacy lives on. In addition to a 23,000-square-foot circus exhibition space and a 3,800-square-foot miniature circus at The Ringling, Sarasota is home to Big Cat Habitat, a sanctuary that provides a home for retired circus lions and tigers; the Circus Ring of Fame at the St. Armands Circle; and the Circus Arts Conservatory, which presents one-ring, five-star performances a few weeks a year, trains young gymnasts and provides humor therapy for the elderly and the infirmed. There’s also Bob’s Train, a cafe built in an old Ringling railcar, a favorite breakfast spot of old performers. Says Walk, “The death of the circus has been greatly exaggerated.”

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Anyone nostalgic for a Florida before theme parks, timeshares and traffic took over must read A L A N D R E M E M B E R E D (Pineapple Press, 1984).

Patrick Smith’s bestseller—available this spring as a graphic novel adapted by Andre Frattino—follows three generations of ranchers from the Civil War to the civil rights movement as they battle myriad adversaries including alligators, mosquitoes, hurricanes, freezes, rustlers and developers.

MORE MUST-READS

TH E YE A R L I N G ( 1938 )

Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings

O R A N G E S ( 1975 ) John McPhee

TO U R I ST S E A S O N ( 1986 ) Carl Hiaasen

S H A D O W C O U NTRY ( 2008 ) Peter Matthiessen

Spring Training

Each February, the 15 Major League Baseball teams belonging to the Grapefruit League, named for the state’s beloved citrus crops, set up camp in various Florida cities to work out the kinks in warm, sunny environs before opening day. The first instance of S P R I N G TR A I N I N G in Florida occurred in Jacksonville in 1888, when Cornelius Alexander McGillicuddy, record holder for career wins as a manager (and grandfather of former Senator from Florida Connie Mack III), was just a reserve catcher for the Washington Nationals.

It took nearly 30 years, however, for team owners to recognize the Sunshine State’s marketable appeal and cement a tradition of play that now draws 1.5 million spectators over the course of just 37 days.

The teams’ adopted cities pull out all the stops to make visitors feel at home. Some stadiums even offer local delicacies at concession stands—think lobster rolls for the Red Sox, cheesesteak for the Phillies and poutine for the Blue Jays.

Spring Break

An annual college swim camp in the 1930s introduced students to the allure of Fort Lauderdale’s balmy respite in the middle of the semester, but it was the performances of a hunky George Hamilton and coquettish Dolores Hart in 1960’s Where the Boys Are that really Below: catapulted the collegiate Tampa rite of S P R I N G B R E A K . The year Bay’s Kevin following the movie’s release, Kiermaier 50,000 coeds descended signing autographs on the South Florida city,

TIBBALS CIRCUS COLLEC TION, SKIP MILOS, ISTOCK , MGM PIC TURES

a phenomenon that initially delighted locals appreciative of the economic boost. In the ensuing decades, however, enthusiasm waned as students’ behavior devolved. Fed up with beach brawls, trashed hotels and binge drinking, Fort Lauderdale’s mayor chased the young ’uns north in an appearance on national television in 1986 (about the time Revenge of the Nerds II: Nerds in Paradise wrapped up filming) alongside Daytona’s mayor, who promised to welcome revelers with open arms. Fueled by the attention of a partnership with MTV, Daytona’s version of spring break grew even bigger, badder and more publicized. But Daytona too soon tired of Above: gridlock and grisly alcoholCollege fueled accidents. It severed students ties with the network in 1993 on Fort Lauderdale and cracked down on drinking Beach laws. The party subsequently moved to the Panhandle, where Center: Actor Connie Panama City Beach officials Francis in a and residents now contend beach scene with the same frustrations as from the their predecessors. The 2016 movie Where the Boys Are documentary Spring Broke

captures the story in salacious detail. In response to the boozing coeds, Panama City Beach banned drinking on the sandy beach throughout last March. For now, it seems Spring Breakers still have Key West—until they don’t.

Natural Springs

Florida has 43 official natural springs sites across its northern and central regions, where tepid water temperatures hover around 70

degrees year round, more than any other state in the nation. The crystal-clear, turquoise waters of Florida’s springs have graced the silver screen for decades, appearing in several installments of the James Bond and Tarzan franchises, as well as 1954’s Creature From the Black Lagoon. The latter was filmed in part at Wakulla Springs, 14 miles south of Tallahassee, which boasts one of the state’s most storied hotels on its premises. In 1937, millionaire businessman Edward Ball developed the W A K U L L A S P R I N G S L O D G E , a retreat replete with opulent details such as an art deco–style walnut-walled elevator, a hand-painted ceiling depicting local wildlife and a marble soda fountain counter that stretches more than 70 feet.

The inn features 27 spacious rooms with vintage furniture, the grandest of which overlook the springs. It also pays homage to a former neighbor Old Joe. More than 50 years after his death in 1966, the 11-foot, 650-pound alligator now rests stuffed and mounted in a glass coffin in the lobby.

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Cattle Ranchers Cattle arrived in St. Augustine in the 1500s, imported by Spanish conquistadors who then abandoned their herds as they traveled the state.

The Seminole tribe began domesticating and breeding them, followed by pioneer settlers. At first a means of survival, ranching has grown into an $847 million industry and a gratifying way of life for its stewards. “It develops deep bonds, with the land and within families,” says Doyle Carlton III, a fifth-generation rancher in Wauchula, whose earliest memories involve tottering behind his father and grandfather as they worked their herds deep in Central Florida. His experience has come full circle, as his children and grandchildren have embraced the vocation, too. Says Carlton, “It’s our love.”

Center from left: Doyle and Dale Carlton and Brian Alexy in DeSoto County on their Horse Creek Ranch, moving cattle from creek swamp to higher, drier pasture

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FLA 101 Don’t get caught not knowing the state stuff, like our song, “Swanee River.”

Here’s our cheat sheet of the official state symbols you forgot you learned in school.

STATE A N I M A L:

Florida Panther

STATE F L O W E R:

Orange Blossom

STATE B I R D:

CARLTON WARD JR ., ADOBE STOCK

Mockingbird

STATE TR E E:

Sabal Palm

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Below:

These two have taken their limit for Osceola turkeys.

Right:

Rum runners were first made in Florida.

Horse Heaven While developing Florida’s road system in the early 1900s, a contractor discovered a wealth of limestone (an element that often underlies rich grasslands) beneath Ocala, recognized the region’s potential as an equestrian haven and established the first thoroughbred farm in Florida. Today, 431 farms

cover more than 70,000 acres in the Ocala area. Needles was the first Florida-bred racehorse to win a race of this caliber, and his 1956 Kentucky Derby victory propelled the North Florida city, population 59,000, to the upper echelon of horse racing.

Since then, it has produced 50 national champions, 26 Breeders’ Cup winners and American Pharaoh, the last Triple Crown winner. It’s also served as the winter training ground

for countless others.

“That’s just the tip of the iceberg,” says local breeder Wendy Christ, who helps rehome retired racers.

“Here, you’ll find every type of horse doing every discipline, from dressage to barrel racing. They even play a therapeutic role with our prison inmates. They’re versatile animals with so much heart.”

Above:

Ocala horse farms have produced 50 national champions.

Life on the peninsula is not always as idyllic as the postcards suggest.

Though millions of residents dodged the utter devastation Irma inflicted on the Keys in 2017, Floridians acknowledge the destructive power of H U R R I C A N E S and spend six months a year in fear of the next Donna, Andrew or Charley. Storms form to offset exceptionally warm water, explains Dave Osterberg, a meteorologist for Tampa’s Fox 13. “Ultimately, they want to go to the poles. However, Florida—like North Carolina’s Outer Banks— juts out into their path, so we get hit a lot,” he says. Another unsettling concern: the chance that the earth could open up and swallow whole neighborhoods. Both natural phenomena (torrential rain) and human activity (spraying crops, showering, drinking water) can trigger S I N K H O L E S .

When the aquifer beneath us gets low, empty space is created between rocks beneath the surface, and the heavy ground on the surface collapses.

The most prevalent danger in the state, however, is L I G HTN I N G . Florida is narrow enough that sea breezes from the Gulf and the Atlantic meet in violent collisions that can release up to one billion volts Left: NASA’s of electricity. “We lead the nation in lightning strikes and, satellite unfortunately, deaths [from lightning strikes] because footage of people don’t take warning signs seriously,” Osterberg says.

Hurricane “If thunder roars, get indoors.”

Irma

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ADOBE STOCK , BRET T SENG

Acts of God

Osceola Turkey Found only in Florida—south of the Suwannee River, specifically—the Osceola turkey is the ultimate challenge for hunters in pursuit of the elusive grand slam of turkey hunting. “Of the country’s four subspecies, it’s by far the hardest one to get,” says John Nash, a Bradenton resident and retired banker who’s hunted the birds for 50 years. That’s largely because the birds tend to roost on private land.

The wary gobblers are also very alert to movement, and fast—flying at speeds of 55 mph—so hitting one “requires the patience of a chess master,” Nash says. To find them, he recommends consulting an outfitter, such as F L O R I D A O UTD O O R E X P E R I E N C E in Chiefland, which has five turkey farms and specializes in upscale hunting experiences.

The Rum Runner In 1972, the owner of the Holiday Isle Tiki Bar in Islamorada noticed an overstock of liquor and challenged his manager to concoct something special to purge it. Enter: the rum runner. Named for the bootleggers who carted booze from the Caribbean to Florida during Prohibition, this sweet but potent libation features light and dark rum, banana and blackberry liqueurs, orange and pineapple juices, and a splash of grenadine. More than 45 years later, it endures as a quintessential tropical treat. Martin Kucera, head bartender at the nearby Morada Bay Beach Cafe & Bar, fields rum runner requests constantly. “Travelers from across the globe always ask whether we know how to make a real one,” he says. Among them: a man who previously smuggled Gosling’s rum between Bermuda and various locales along the East Coast. “While those days are long behind him, he still visits us every few years requesting a rum runner,” Kucera says. “We consider this the highest form of flattery—to have a stamp of approval from a true rumrunner himself.”

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Treasures Untold A poorly timed departure put the Nuestra Señora de Atocha in the path of a hurricane on its voyage home from Cuba to Spain. The doomed galleon, loaded with gold, silver and jewels from South America, made it only as far as the Marquesas atoll, where it remained undisturbed, 55 feet below the surface, from Sept. 5, 1622, until July 20, 1985, when the late treasure hunter/eternal optimist Mel Fisher’s mantra—“Today’s the day!”—came true, big time.

Relying on vague 17th-century documents from Spaniards who located the Santa Margarita, the Atocha’s sister ship, Fisher and his crew found the wreck after 16 years spent doggedly searching. (He’d previously salvaged the 1715 Fleet, which sank near Vero Beach and earned the area the moniker “Florida’s Treasure Coast.”) Today, Fisher’s son, Kim, and daughter, Taffi, carry the torch as leaders of the Mel Fisher Family Enterprises, overseeing a conservation center, two museums (the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum in Key West and Mel Fisher’s Treasure Museum in Sebastian), stores in both cities (authentic Atocha coin jewelry retails at anywhere from $1,200 to $32,850) and two 90-foot vessels that take investors on salvage dives at wrecks. “There’s still a lot left to be recovered,” says Megan McDowell, marketing director for Mel Fisher’s Treasures. “Between the Atocha and the Margarita, there’s at least $300 million worth of treasure that we know of.”

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The Sunshine Sound Few musicians could be more iconic to Florida than our adopted musical sailor, J I M MY B U F F E T T , with his songs about flipflops and pop-tops. Buffett took to the stage in Key West in 1971 to chase his dreams of becoming a musician. The 71-year-old passed out, rallied, sprung a few leaks and, oh yeah, created a billion-dollar brand out of Margaritaville along the way.

Anyone who’s attended a movie, major sporting event or wedding in the past 43 years has heard K C A N D TH E S U N S H I N E B A N D . To many, the Grammy-winning group, best known for “Get Down Tonight,” “That’s The Way (I Like It)” and “Boogie Shoes,” personifies the lively rhythm of the disco era. But to founder Harry Casey, the music embodies South Florida’s multiethnic culture. Growing up in Hialeah exposed him to various musical genres, Above: Florida is a breeding including pop, reggae ground for and Latin, which he musicians. commingled into his Left: Ancient legendary “sunshine treasures still await divers on sound.” Grateful for his roots, he’s never the seafloor. moved farther than 10 Below: The miles away from his Merritt 43 is a game-fishing hometown. Another sunny icon, G L O R I A weapon.

E STE FA N , fluent in Spanish, English and French, started out as a translator in the customs department at Miami International Airport, where CIA officials once approached her, suggesting a career in espionage.

Instead, she became a celebrated chanteuse whose many accolades include three Grammy Awards, the Presidential Medal of Freedom, membership in the Songwriters Hall of Fame and Kennedy Center Honors. J I M M O R R I S O N , born in Melbourne, briefly attended Florida State University before honing his psychedelic blues style in California. The front man for the Doors caused a stir back in his home state during a 1969 concert at the Dinner Key Auditorium in Miami, where he allegedly exposed himself and shouted various obscenities at the audience, leading to his arrest. The troubled troubadour died two years later at age 27; in 2010, Governor Charlie Crist granted him a posthumous pardon.

A day trip to Ocala in 1961 set in motion an illustrious career for TO M P E T T Y . There, the 11-year-old Gainesville native saw Elvis Presley filming Follow That Dream and vowed to become a star himself. With four friends, he formed a band called

Mudcrutch (the precursor to the Heartbreakers), which played regular gigs at Dub’s, a local topless bar.

The Rock & Roll Hall of Famer died last October, just 18 days shy of his 67th birthday. Since then, University of Florida fans have memorialized their hometown hero by singing one of his hits, “I Won’t Back Down,” at sporting events. And then there’s RAY CHARLES, whose most famous song often leads people to believe he lived his whole life in Georgia. But he moved to Florida as an infant and grew up there, attending the Florida School for the Deaf and the Blind in St. Augustine. At the school, Charles learned to read, write and compose music in braille.

MEL FISHER’S TREASURES, ADOBE STOCK , MERRIT T BOAT & ENGINE WORKS

Merritt 43 Though only 12 of its kind were ever built, the Merritt 43 made quite a splash when it debuted in 1968. Named for its length, the custom design from Merritt’s Boat & Engine Works in Pompano Beach has helped anglers achieve numerous records, including the men’s all-tackle Atlantic and Pacific blue marlin records, the women’s alltackle Atlantic blue marlin record, and the record for most giant bluefin tuna caught in one day. “It was the right boat at the right time—bigger than most, yet light and nimble,” says CEO Roy Merritt, a third-generation builder in the family business. Salt Water Sportsman declared it a “game-fishing weapon” and “the top sport fishing boat of all time,” while Power & Motor Yacht praised its clean aesthetics, even going so far as to call it “prettiest.”

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Publix Floridians (and grocery shoppers across the Southeast) love TH E STATE’S I C O N I C S U P E R M A R K E T C H A I N . Lakeland-based Publix, which operates more than 1,000 stores, owes its sterling reputation to founder George Jenkins. Nearly nine decades ago, Jenkins envisioned a store “where shopping is a pleasure,” and the company’s 188,000 associates are invested in upholding his standards today. Publix is one of the largest employee-owned companies in the world. A generous employee stock ownership plan has created a loyal workforce of people who stick with the company for decades, developing rich, first-name relationships with customers along the way, explains spokesperson Maria Brous. “Food is at the center of so many occasions, Above: which means we get to Publix was celebrate countless milestones founded with people,” she says. “It’s a in Winter Haven. privilege we cherish.”

Events That Changed the World In the last decade, waves of national news have poured out of Florida—including the trials of C A S E Y A NTH O NY , accused of murdering her two-year-old daughter, and G E O R G E Z I M M E R M A N , the neighborhood watch member who fatally shot an unarmed Trayvon Martin, as well as the P U L S E S H O OTI N G, in which 49 Orlando nightclub patrons perished. Despite these tragedies, Floridians found a way to gain strength, resolve and voice, whether rallying around victims Left: Apollo 11 or protesting injustices. blasting off on But there’s no denying July 16, 1969

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that the Sunshine State has been ground zero for several watershed moments (bad and good) in U.S. history. Families huddled around television sets on July 16, 1969, to watch Neil Armstrong, Michael Collins and Buzz Aldrin board A P O L L O 11 in Cape Canaveral. Flash-forward to Feb. 6, 2018 when spaceflight took another leap with SpaceX’s rocket, FA L C O N H E A V Y , which launched from the same launch pad as Apollo 11.

The image of an armed U.S. immigration agent confronting terrified 6-year-old E L IÁN G O N ZÁL E Z tugged at the nation’s heartstrings, earned Miami photographer Alan Diaz a Pulitzer Prize, paved the way to normalizing relations with Cuba and, some scholars speculate, influenced Floridians’ votes a few months later during the 2000 P R E S I D E NTI A L E L E CTI O N I M B R O G L I O —arguably the state’s brightest turn in the spotlight. Who can forget those 36 angst-filled days of

Club Paradise Tourists (more than 100 million in 2017) pose a challenge for locals who want to enjoy Florida’s stunning scenery and some personal space. However, there remain a few places around the state where you can luxuriate in peace. Private enclaves, such as the J U P ITE R I S L A N D C L U B in Jupiter, O C E A N R E E F C L U B in Key Largo and Bokeelia’s U S E P PA I S L A N D C L U B , provide sanctuaries from the crowds and preserve the Old Florida lifestyle. Useppa, formerly home to Chicago streetcar magnate John Roach and then advertising-executive-turned-behemothdeveloper Barron Collier, can only be accessed by boat, seaplane or helicopter, keeping the island free of combustion from vehicles. Its 700 members—100 of them residential—have plenty of recreational options at their disposal, including fishing, boating, shelling, golfing, shopping, kayaking, paddleboarding, croquet and tennis.

Below: The “Useppians can be as active or carefree as they please,” says Sales Manager exclusive Rogan White. “The art of the ‘Florida nap’ may have been perfected Useppa Island Club underneath one of our island’s many royal palms or heritage oaks.”

manual recounts, legal battles and special legislative sessions?

Florida has changed the world in so many ways. We had the F I R ST N ATI V E

NICK ADAMS, PUBLIX SUPERMARKETS, USEPPA ISL AND CLUB

A M E R I C A N C A S I N O, F I R ST N ATI O N A L W I L D L I F E R E F U G E

and a court case (G I D E O N V. W A I N W R I G HT ) that established a defendant’s constitutional right to an attorney. In addition, it was

M A RTI N L UTH E R K I N G J R.’S V I S IT TO ST. A U G U STI N E

that finally shamed Congress into passing the C I V I L R I G HTS A CT O F 19 64 . For requesting a meal at the Monson Motor Lodge, King was handcuffed and hauled off to jail.

Days later, a group of black and white protesters held a “swim-in” by jumping into the Monson’s pool, prompting its enraged owner to pour muriatic acid in the water—an act captured by network and wire service photographers. The story blew up, and two weeks later, President Lyndon Johnson signed the bill into law.

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d o w n in the

GLADES

The harrowing tale of three survivors of the 1972 crash of Eastern Airlines flight 401 into the Everglades

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by BOB H. LEE

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This page:

Ground crew with Eastern Airlines Flight 401 before its fateful flight

Eastern Airlines Flight 401 on the tarmac before takeoff on Dec. 29, 1972 Opposite:

Game warden Gray Leonhard in the ’70s

F

orty-five years ago, when Officer Gray Leonhard of the Florida Game and Fresh Water Fish Commission began a solo night patrol in the Everglades, he was on the lookout for poachers, drug smugglers and maybe even a bullet-riddled corpse.

Instead, he would witness the first jumbo jet crash in U.S. history.

On the clear, moonless night of Dec. 29, 1972, a young rookie game warden sat behind the steering wheel of a light-green 1969 Plymouth four-door sedan with a blue “gumball” emergency light mounted on the rooftop. His foot pressed lightly against the accelerator pedal as he inched down the south levee on the L-28 canal with his headlights off. Loose chunks of lime rock cracked and popped under the tires as he crawled ahead.

At the time, it was one of the worst civil aviation disasters the country had ever seen. In the days and weeks following the

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crash of Eastern Airlines Flight 401, recovery efforts captivated the nation, and perhaps because of its iconic, unforgiving, alligator-riddled crash site, the event has remained seared in the memories of Floridians for decades. From his vantage point atop the levee, Florida Game and Fresh Water Fish Commission Officer Gray Leonhard, then 24 years old, had a commanding view across the vast darkened marsh. An elevation of only eight feet felt like being on a hilltop in the Everglades. The night was a balmy 72 degrees, the mosquitoes surprisingly sparse. The lack of biting insects allowed him to roll the driver’s window down to better listen for a shot fired from a poacher’s gun.

Leonhard put the car in park, cut the motor and stepped out.

Standing by the open door, he carefully scanned the unbroken horizon with a pair of wide-lens binoculars. He felt a sense of mission as he looked out into the black swamp, knowing that his job required cunning and stealth.

The warden noted nothing of interest. No flicker from an air boater’s headlamp. No roar of unmuffled high-horsepower

JON PROC TOR

Above:

hairpiece and teased her hair up into a bouffant to make herself look taller.

Raposa smiled cheerfully while she collected empty drink cups and dishes from the passengers. The only thing she was looking forward to on arrival in Miami was going to bed. She was whipped.

Sometime in midflight, passenger Ron Infantino switched seats with his wife, Lilly, after she returned from the bathroom.

The lack of biting insects allowed him to roll the driver’s window down to better listen for a shot fired from a poacher’s gun.

They’d been married only 20 days and were returning from their honeymoon. They were both 26 years old. At the time, the decision to change seats carried no meaning.

The captain and his first and second officers had every reason to feel good and confident about flying this particular ship. The Lockheed L-1011-1 Tristar was the latest generation of widebody commercial aircraft and had been put into service only four months before.

engines. No gunshots. The silence was broken only by the intermittent croaking of bullfrogs and the occasional rustle of tall reeds as an unseen creature passed through them. A pale glow lightened the sky above Miami more than 40 miles away.

Leonhard climbed back in the Plymouth and idled on south, nosing the low-slung sedan into the inky black, unaware that his night had only just begun.

Meanwhile, 1,100 miles to the north, an Eastern Airlines jumbo jet lifted off in bitter cold weather from New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport. The time was 9:20 p.m.

Flight 401 was a short-haul flight to Miami.

Stewardess Beverly Raposa, then 25, noticed nothing unusual as the flight passed high over the Atlantic Ocean en route to Miami International Airport. The petite brunette stood just 5 feet 1.5 inches tall. She had been turned down by Trans World Airlines for a job because she was a half inch under the 5-foot2-inch minimum height required for all stewardesses. Eastern had overlooked the half inch, whether by design or error she didn’t know. But, to play it safe, she always wore an add-on

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NATIONAL AIRLINES FLIGHT 193 L O C ATI O N: E S C A M B I A B AY, P E N S A C O L A DATE: MAY 8, 1978 CAUSE: Operator error.

The captain and crew insufficiently monitored the descent rate and altitude.

FATALITIES : 3 SURVIVORS: 55

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In its first three hours aloft, Flight 401 had been uneventful.

A trio of newly minted Rolls-Royce turbofan jet engines made a rumble that could barely be heard by the 163 passengers and 13 crew members seated inside the spacious cabin and reconfigured cockpit.

As the plane descended on its final landing approach to Miami International Airport, a cheerful voice boomed over the cabin’s loudspeaker address system: “Welcome to sunny Miami,” the captain announced. “The temperature is in the low 70s, and it’s beautiful out there tonight.”

The Infantinos were exhausted from celebrating Christmas with Ron’s parents in New York. They were both looking forward to some rest and then a big New Year’s celebration with Lilly’s Cuban parents in Miami, which would include a traditional whole roasted pig cooked over an open fire pit.

Ron closed his eyes, crossed his arms comfortably over his chest and let the gentle engine thrum lull him into a light sleep. Lilly leaned back in her seat, resting quietly.

At 11:32 p.m., Capt. Robert A. Loft, then 55 years old, with 30 years’ experience and 29,700 flight hours under his belt, attempted to lower the landing gear. A light on the instrument panel the first officer was monitoring failed to illuminate green to confirm that the nose landing gear was extended and locked.

Two minutes later, Flight 401 called the air traffic control tower. “Tower, this is Eastern … 401, it looks like we’re going to have to circle. We don’t have a light on our nose gear yet.”

“Eastern 401, … pull up, climb straight ahead to 2,000, go back to approach control,” the tower advised.

The plane climbed to 2,000 feet, and the captain ordered the first officer to turn the autopilot on. He hoped the circling delay would give them time to fix the problem.

Flight 401 soared above a primordial swampland filled with poisonous snakes and alligators crawling through razor-sharp sawgrass and open-water sloughs. With almost twice the area of Rhode Island, the largest subtropical wilderness in the United States has some of the most formidable terrain on Earth.

Inside the plane’s cockpit, the crew was trying to slide in a replacement bulb, a roughly two-square-inch all-in-one light

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assembly unit covered by a translucent green plastic lens, valued at $12 altogether. But it kept jamming. At some point the captain inadvertently bumped the control wheel, knocking the autopilot partially off. The unintentional jar apparently caused the plane’s nose to tilt down a few degrees.

The altimeter showed a decrease in altitude, but none of the crew noticed. The plane was dropping from the sky at a rate of 200 feet each minute. Then an alarm chimed, signaling a 250foot drop.

The crew members, however, were focused on fixing the wheel-light indicator. The problem had consumed all their mental energy. And now, no one was flying the plane.

At 11:42 p.m., the first officer said, “We did something to the altitude.”

“What?” asked the captain.

“We’re still at 2,000, right?” the first officer asked.

“Hey, what’s happening here?” the captain shouted.

A SMALL MISTAKE Raposa sensed a different tone in the engines. It didn’t sound like they were in midair anymore.

Ron’s eyes blinked open upon hearing the engines roar to full power. Startled, and now fully awake, he wondered, “What’s going on here?” A former crew chief on a B-52 in Vietnam, he had a keener sense than most passengers about a plane in trouble. Then a sudden jolt rattled the aircraft. His last complete thought before losing consciousness was, “This is going to be one hell of a rough landing.”

In the cockpit, the first of six radio altimeter warnings began, signaling an impending crash.

It was too late to do anything.

The left wingtip banked into the marsh at 227 miles per hour. Huge gouts of mud and aquatic vegetation shot high into the air as 185 tons of screeching metal ripped into the muck and grass. A fireball rushed through the fuselage, and the plane began pinwheeling like a giant Ferris wheel spun loose from its mount.

To those who survived, the scene must have had an eerie end-of-the-earth feel, with wisps of gray mist swirling, a baby wailing, the groans from the injured and the dying. The sounds

COURTESY RON INFANTINO

F ATA L F L A C R A S H E S

of unknown critters moving through the water lent a disturbing backdrop to the cacophony of misery.

Beverly Raposa stumbled out of the nightmarish apocalypse, hurt, disheveled and covered in clumps of dripping swamp grasses. She choked on the acrid fumes from the 43,000 pounds of aviation gas that had spilled from the plane and screamed, “Don’t light any matches!”

FROM AIRBOAT TO AIRPLANE Leonhard happened to be looking southeast across the glades.

“An orange glow suddenly lit up out in the marsh toward Miami,” he recalled. “It looked like someone had poured gasoline on a campfire, and poof, up it went.” Curiously, Leonhard never heard the impact. He was more than 25 miles away.

A few minutes later Leonhard’s radio crackled. “A jumbo jet crashed in the Everglades north of the Tamiami Trial,” his sergeant said. “Pick up your airboat and meet me at the Twenty Mile Boat Ramp. We’ll launch from there.”

Leonhard hit the gas as he toggled on the blue light and siren.

He had to make a detour of some 50 miles before he would arrive at the boat ramp on the north side of the Tamami Trail.

By 1 a.m., the rookie warden had launched his airboat. Riding with him were two Federal Aviation Administration officials. “The area I was about to go in was uncharted territory for me,” Leonhard said. “We were in Dade County, and my patrol zone was Broward County to the north.”

During his airboat training, senior wardens of the Game and Fresh Water Fish Commission had told Leonhard, “Never stop

It looked like someone had poured gasoline on a camp fire, and poof, up it went.

COURTESY RON INFANTINO

— Gray Leonhard

or slow an airboat down in rank grass because you may not be able to power out of it. Once you become stuck in the glades, you could be there for a long, long, time.”

Those words guided Leonhard as his 14-foot patrol airboat bulldozed through dense walls of water-anchored grass. High in the distant black sky, beyond the harsh glare cast by his headlamp, was a circling star: the searchlight of a Coast Guard helicopter hovering over the crash site eight miles away. It became his navigation beacon.

Thirty minutes later, Leonhard and his passengers suddenly burst out of a thick patch of 12-foot-high sawgrass. The hull

Above: Beverly Raposa with her Eastern Airlines stewardess class in the ’60s Opposite:

Ron Infantino and his late wife, Lilly, on their wedding day

slingshot forward as it dropped a couple of feet down into an open-water slough.

Ten feet in front of them were what looked like two mannequins to Leonhard—a partially clothed woman lying faceup in the mud and a naked man lying facedown. She wore panty hose and looked like she’d been scalped with a razor. He was left wearing nothing but a necktie and belt pushed up under his armpits. The FAA guy sitting closest to Leonhard yelled, “Holy shit!”

“An airboat doesn’t have brakes,” Leonhard explained. “And before I had time to even let off the throttle or do anything else, I ran over those two people, who I knew were both dead. But we idled back around to double-check on them just in case.”

Though Leonhard was only a rookie, the sight of death was not unfamiliar to him. Two tours in Southeast Asia had hardened him.

Leonhard pulled his eyes away from the painful scene, lifted his head and slowly swung the stark-white beam of his helmet-mounted lamp across a massive trench carved in the marsh. More than a quarter mile long, the cone-shaped debris field was filled with an apocalyptic jumble of human carnage, personal belongings and aircraft wreckage. “This

F ATA L F L A C R A S H E S DELTA AIRLINES FLIGHT 1288 L O C ATI O N: P E N S A C O L A DATE: J U LY 6, 19 9 6 CAUSE: An undetected fatigue crack in the engine’s front compressor hub FATALITIES : 3 SURVIVORS: 140

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The landing gear from Flight 401 at the crash site; an aerial view of the crash site; a swath of the Everglades Opposite from top:

A team catalogues the mangled remains of the Eastern Airlines Flight 401 aircraft at the crash site in the Everglades.

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feet above the swamp. The middle engine and tail section had was one of those moments when there aren’t enough words broken away from the main fuselage, coming to a rest on their in the dictionary to describe the devastation. Dead bodies sides in a remote area far from the main crash site, which was hung, lay and floated everywhere I looked. But we knew our located 18.7 miles northwest of Miami International Airport. job was to rescue the survivors first. There would be plenty After the horrendous of time for body recovery,” ear-splitting roar of the crash Leonhard said. moments before, the sudden Leonhard killed the engine The rescuers are picking people up silence was unnerving. She so that they could listen for from the nose section of the plane screamed for help, but no the calls of survivors. During a first.

They’ll find us eventually. one answered, and she wonrare moment of calm after the —beverly raposa dered whether she was the rescue helicopter had departed only one left alive. for Miami, he heard the faint Raposa popped the release tune of a Christmas carol. buckle and fell into the marsh, landing on her hands and knees.

Leonhard doesn’t remember which one. Later, a Coast GuardsHer face burned from the jet fuel. She dug down into the black man told him they’d found a determined flight attendant standmuck, cupped a double handful to her face and smeared it all ing atop a large section of cabin wreckage, leading a half dozen over the affected areas. It seemed to help. of the fortunate in song.

She looked into the distance, saw the dim lights of Miami SURVIVORS’ SONG framed against a coal-black horizon and noticed how far The last thing Raposa remembered seeing before she was away it was. She was very scared, having never been in the knocked out was a waterfall of colors. When she came to, she Everglades before. With an injured back and a cut foot, she was still belted into her seat, tipped to one side, hanging six slogged through sucking muck, shredded saw grass and plane

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ADOBE STOCK , COURTESY RON INFANTINO

Above from left:

COURTESY RON INFANTINO

wreckage. She found a section of the cabin with a stewardess still strapped into her seat-belt harness. The flight attendant, Mercy Ruiz, was badly injured, with a broken pelvis and a severe laceration on her forehead.

Raposa did not have any blankets. She had no first-aid kit. She had nothing. But the passengers were her people—her responsibility—and it was still her job to help them. Serving coffee, tea and soda was all very nice, but this was what counted. With determination born of her Portuguese grandparents’ work ethic and her work on a 160-acre dairy farm as a young girl growing up in Rhode Island, the former Girl Scout troop leader shouted, “I’m a stewardess. If you hear my voice, come toward me. Follow my voice.” Within minutes, six to eight passengers crawled out of the dark and were seated on the scrap of flooring, shivering, afraid and in shock. In a weak voice, one of them asked, “What about the alligators?”

Raposa didn’t hesitate: “We made such a loud noise when we hit. I’m sure they all ran away.” She spit the words out quickly, doing her best to sound convincing. Ever the good Catholic, she crossed herself in the dark and silently prayed, “Oh God, please let that be true.”

A Coast Guard helicopter flew toward them, sweeping the

marsh with a bright searchlight, and then turned away. Raposa’s survivors became upset. “They’re not going to find us,” an anxious passenger whispered.

“Yes, they are,” Raposa assured them. “The rescuers are picking people up from the nose section of the plane first.

They’ll find us eventually.”

Raposa had the survivors scoot together, sitting back to back so they could stay warm. In a calm, soothing voice, she said, “Now close your eyes and pretend you have a cup of coffee, hot chocolate or tea in your hands. Picture that in your mind. That’s what you’re going to get when we get out of here. Now take a sip. Feel the warmth going down.”

The hours passed, and still no rescuers had arrived. Raposa was struggling for ideas to keep her group occupied. “Why don’t we sing to help warm ourselves up?” she suggested.

“What songs will we sing?” one passenger asked.

“Let’s sing Christmas carols,” Raposa replied. “How about we start with ‘Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer’?”

F ATA L F L A C R A S H E S NORTHWEST AIRLINES FLIGHT 705 L O C ATI O N: EVERGLADES DATE: FE B R UARY 12, 19 63 CAUSE: Severe vertical gusts of air upset the plane’s position, and it could not recover.

FATALITIES : 43 SURVIVORS: 0

DARK DISCOVERY Ron Infantino woke up in a chill, heart pounding, breath erratic. In every direction, there was nothing but dead silence

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L O C ATI O N: EVERGLADES DATE: MAY 11,19 9 6 CAUSE: Fire started by improperly stored cargo in the hold FATALITIES : 110 SURVIVORS: 0

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and incredible darkness. The cloak of black was made all But Infantino couldn’t follow the voice. He was trapped the more intense by the surreal stillness. “My God, what beneath the water. Unable to move and weak from severe do we do now? Am I the only one left alive?” he wondered. loss of blood, his body hung suspended in the watery muck, Buried up to his neck in freezing water and muck, comstill bent in the sitting position. His right arm was three-quarpletely naked except for ters severed and barely the elastic rims of his attached by tendons, skin socks, severely injured, and strings of muscle. His Don’t anyone light a match!

If you shivering and in shock, left knee was dislocated, can hear my voice, come to me.

Infantino feebly called into wrenched sideways at a Follow my voice! the night: “Lilly, where are vicious right angle. you? Help.”

Oddly, he felt no pain.

—beverly raposa Quiet.

Shock had taken over.

Then a big, bold female An hour or so later, a voice reverberated somewhere out of the gloom, “Don’t Christmas carol floated through the air, reassuring Infananyone light a match!” A few minutes later, “If you can hear tino he was not alone. my voice, come to me! Follow my voice!”

Five hours after the crash, the welcome sounds of voices

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COURTESY RON INFANTINO

F ATA L F L A C R A S H E S VALUJET FLIGHT 592

and legs sloshing through water, labored breathing and flashlight beams probing the dark broke the silence. They were heading his way. “Please don’t leave me!” Infantino yelled.

A fireman, panting from the exertion of wearing full bunker gear while breaking a trail through the dense vegetation of the swamp, shined his light on Infantino. “Sir, don’t worry,” he said. “We’re not going to leave you.”

Two days later, Lilly Infantino was found trapped beneath one of the wings. Sadly, she did not survive.

SAFE AND SOUND By about 3:15 a.m., Raposa’s flock of survivors had all been rescued. Now it was her turn. Retired Air Force Col. Frank Borman—a former astronaut, vice president of Eastern Airlines and now a first responder—came to

Opposite:

Wreckage from Eastern Airlines Flight 401 in the Everglades Below:

First responders arrived on the scene of the crash in fanboats.

escort her into a helicopter hovering at ground level a short distance away. He put his arm around her, and they began slogging through knee-deep muck and water. Suddenly, he stopped. “Wait a minute,” he said. “I lost my boot.”

“Well,” Raposa said, “I’ll help you find it.”

“No, I’m supposed to be helping you.”

“That’s okay,” Raposa said. “I’m a tough Portuguese girl from Rhode Island.”

HUMAN CANNON BALL Around 4:30 a.m., Leonhard waded up to a willow head—a thick tangle of weepy trees with brittle limbs draping into the water. Leonhard discovered a hole in the bushes, roughly circular in shape and a little larger than the mouth of a culvert pipe. He probed it with his flashlight beam.

Branches had been recently snapped off all the way around the opening, all pointing inward.

“I called out to a Coast Guardsman who was working nearby to come and help me out,” Leonhard said. “It looked like a piece of the wreckage, or something, had been propelled on a near horizontal trajectory, traveling just a foot or two above the water’s surface, and rocketed into the willows with tremendous force.”

Bent at the waist, the two men waded into the hole, following a ragged debris trail of damaged vegetation. “We went deeper and deeper, until we’d gone about 50 yards.

Incredibly, we found a man sitting alone on a small tussock. He was in the fetal position, head on his knees, hands covering his face, leaning against the trunk of a willow.

He had a broken arm and some cuts and scrapes, but no other visible wounds,” Leonhard said. “This guy had been hurled from the plane like a human cannonball. I wouldn’t be a bit surprised if the speed he’d been traveling was well over a hundred miles an hour.”

Leonhard added, “The guy weighed around 160, but it still took eight of us carrying a stretcher filled with his dead weight to carry him out. What made it so hard was trying to manhandle him up and over the broken willows.

We had him out by 5:30 in the morning. I don’t know this for sure, but I seem to remember he was the last survivor rescued.”

Of the 176 passengers and crew members aboard Flight 401, 77 survived the initial crash. Two later died, leaving 75 survivors and 101 fatalities. Leonhard, Raposa, and Infantino never connected during the rescue operation, except for one tenuous bond that drew them together in spirit: the sound of a distant Christmas carol drifting through the night.

ADAPTED FROM BAD GUYS, BULLETS, AND BOAT CHASES BY BOB H. LEE. COPYRIGHT © 2017 BY THE AUTHOR AND REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF THE UNIVERSITY PRESS OF FLORIDA.

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A culinary trip around Florida’s Big Bend reveals the near-forgotten flavors and culture of the once vibrant oyster route along U.S. 98 and the iconic familyowned joints still shucking to keep the memories cooking.

SHACKTOPIA

By STEVE DOLLAR • Photography by LIBBY VOLGYES

Above: Wade Paterson of Lynn’s Quality Oysters, prepares his net.

Opposite:

Piles of oyster shells outside of Lynn’s Quality Oysters

When I think about Florida, the state where I was born and raised, images from my childhood leap forward, flickering in my memory like a sun-streaked Super 8 home movie.

Brawny, gnarled oak trees dripping with Spanish moss. A family road trip to witness an Apollo launch from Kennedy Space Center, made complete with a tour of that ultimate Sunshine State 1960s status symbol: our cousin’s bomb shelter, a souvenir from the Cuban missile crisis. Screaming plunges into sinkholes, water ice-cube cold and crystalline. Watermelons straight from the field. And always, always, going to the coast.

Everyone went to the beach, of course. For the day, for the weekend, for the week, everywhere along the Panhandle. The sand and surf, rental houses christened with names like “Divine Porpoise” and “A Shore Thing” perched high on stilts like sandpipers on their bandy legs, splashed in pastels of blue and yellow. That was a big part of it, but it wasn’t all of it, because “going to the coast” also meant seafood and stomach-rumbling pilgrimages to grease-

soaked fish houses, tin-roofed oyster shacks and occasionally a more refined establishment.

They were scattered like driftwood along U.S. Route 98, the coastal road that stretches past St. Marks and Panacea along the Apalachee Bay, past Alligator Point, Carabelle, Eastpoint, St. George Island, Dog Island and Apalachicola, close by Indian Pass, St. Vincent Island and Cape San Blas, onto Port St. Joe, Mexico Beach and Panama City.

The leisurely 125-mile ramble is a familiar path to almost anyone who grew up in the Big Bend, the pathway to a kind of birthright that was once abundant. There were all of those family-owned joints serving up fried mullet and grouper, shrimp and oysters—batter-fried, raw on the half shell, steamed, plopped in a milky stew—assembled like the last meal anyone would ever need to eat, ever could eat, in heaping captain’s platters, with hush puppies piled up on the lip of a plastic plate for good measure. Sides of cheese grits and fat slices of raw onion. Sometimes you got a bowl of dill pickles, cozied up to a miniature shrimp boat loaded with garlic butter and crackers.

Above: Port St. Joe’s “There were five big main street is lined with local shops. fish houses here, mullet Left: A dozen boats, 200 to 300 shrimp raw oysters from Indian Pass Raw Bar boats here at all times, Opposite: probably 80 grouper boats Wade carefully and eight oyster houses. shucks for Lynn’s Quality Oysters.

There were seafood trucks going everywhere. It was

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amazing,” says William Millender, reflecting on a kind of golden era for North Florida’s seafood industry, when the go-to restaurants were homey places christened with the first and middle names of the head cook and proprietor: Julia Mae’s, Martha Ann’s, Terry Lynn’s—mullet meccas whose proprietors had a folksy touch that wasn’t the same anywhere else.

Millender grew up in Carabelle and began fishing professionally when he was 11 years old. At 16, he was running a 166-foot boat on his own, fishing the Atlantic, from Cape Canaveral to Key West and all the way to Texas on two-month runs. Now a Franklin County commissioner, Millender hails from one of the handful of families that have been synonymous with the shellfish business around Apalachee Bay going back to 1941.

“I guess it was in my blood,” he says. “It’s been in my family for years and years. Five generations.”

Those days are long gone. A statewide net ban referendum, approved by 72 percent of Florida voters and instituted in 1995, forbid the use of entanglement nets. This was a terrible blow to the state’s prosperous commercial fishing industry, and a boon for sport fishermen. Meanwhile, recent years have seen the Apalachicola oyster, once so plentiful it could account for one out of every 10 oysters consumed in the United States, become scarce. The widely cherished bivalve sustained the Native American tribes that flourished in the local forests for millennia, and in modern times was considered one of the region’s prime exports. It was the best oyster you could swallow, known for its distinctive, subtle balance of brine and sweetness, liquid spilling in a clean, bracing rush as teeth sank into the meaty flesh.

Although there are multiple contributing factors to the demise of the Apalachicola oyster— hurricanes, red tide, overharvesting—the biggest culprit is the so-called Above: The “water war” between Florida Apalachicola and Georgia. Advocates for Bay’s oysters diminished the two states stood before have from changes in the ecosystem. the United States Supreme

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There were five big fish houses here, mullet boats, 200 to 300 shrimp boats here at all times, probably 80 grouper boats and eight oyster houses. There were seafood trucks going everywhere. It was amazing —William Millender

Court in January 2018 to settle a dispute that has been heating up since the 1950s. That’s when the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers began building a series of five dams that restricted the flow of water into Apalachicola Bay from the Apalachicola-Chattahoochee-Flint River Basin.

What was good for the ever-expanding metropolis of Atlanta was death for one of the most identifiably Floridian industries beyond orange groves and spaceships. Dan Tonsmeire, the Apalachicola riverkeeper, told USA Today that a dozen or so boats now oystering on the bay each bring in a mere two bags a day. A report published by the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, and cited by the foodie website Eater, showed a drastic reduction in estimated end-of-season oyster populations in the two main reefs for oyster production in Apalachicola Bay. It plunged from near 180,000 in 2007 to around 20,000 in 2012.

The Supreme Court decision could take months to arrive, but it will be critical to any future for the Apalachicola oyster. “The oysters got to have some fresh water to live on,” Millender says. “If we don’t get no water down the Apalachicola from up north, the oysters won’t ever get no better.”

None of that means visitors can’t have a classic oyster shack experience. They’ll just be extremely lucky if their oysters come from the bay. More likely, their raw platter will brim with pelecypods from Texas or Louisiana, or, perhaps, some of the farmed versions that are becoming more available. One of the most popular stops is Indian Pass Raw Bar, on County Road 30A outside Apalachicola. The large, rustic restaurant—or “trading post” in the historical parlance its owners, the McNeil family, likes to use—hugs the side of the road across from a lagoon that will begin yielding an oyster harvest someday soon. A stage rises a few feet above a dirt parking lot, the site of frequent live concerts. Inside, dining tables share space with a long bar and shelves boasting an encyclopedic array of hot sauces such as Boss Man, Ed’s Red, and Texas Pete. Orders are placed via a checklist. Customers draw their own draft beers

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Clockwise from top: A cup of

seafood gumbo at Indian Pass Raw Bar; The chalkboard says it all at Indian Pass; There’s a spirit of community in these old fishing towns; Oysters and cold beer make the perfect pair.

ORDER UP!

Real-deal seafood shacks in Florida’s Big Bend Indian Pass Raw Bar

A little bit of Florida history, some rockin’ country music and a lot of fresh oysters, any way you like ’em. There’s even a couple of craft beers on draft.

8391 County Road 30A, Port St. Joe (850) 227-1670

Lynn’s Quality Oysters

Find raw oysters, cold beer, an iced-down display of fresh catches to take home and lots of U.S. 98 character. Owner Lynn Martina has been working in the family oyster business since she was 9 years old.

402 U.S. 98, Eastpoint (850) 670-8796.

right from the tap and pay for them by the honor system. Best not cheat, the sheet warns. “Dishonorable friends will be prosecuted.”

The business was first launched in 1903 as a commissary serving the local turpentine workers.

The current site was established in 1929 with the construction of the highway, and has passed through various identities over the decades, but the McNeil’s really only got deep into the shucking game after the one-two punch of hurricanes Elaine and Kate shut down the oyster industry in 1985, for a little over a year. The oysters came back for awhile, but for the family it made more sense to run a raw bar than to continue as wholesalers.

If Indian Pass Raw Bar, as beloved by New York designers on beach holidays as by Tallahassee state workers on a Lost Coast day trip, caters to broader tastes, Lynn’s Quality Oysters,

off Highway 98 in Eastpoint, is a more fundamental experience. A handful of tables Below: Indian Pass and a tiny oyster bar with Raw bar owner a few stools make things Jim McNeil, his son Austin, right, and cozy, and a display counter grandson Chris stocked with fish and shrimp for retail sale adds a distinctive aroma. A sign tacked to the counter advertises “Home Boys Homie Juice,” a bug repellent, with a cartoon illustration of a pie-eyed fish and a grinning show-biz worm doffing a top hat. Behind the counter, a burly, bearded shucker works his oyster knife with diligent focus, while carrying on a running dialogue with the customers and cracking jokes punctuated by his own robust laughter. Before you’ve finished your first dozen, the order goes in for another round of frosty Bud longnecks. This is a kind of heaven.

Like pretty much every oyster joint along this stretch, Lynn’s looks like a found object, an accidental artwork fashioned from the pearly gray mounds of discarded oyster shells that cluster alongside the building. There’s corny-comical signage (“Guarded 3 Nights Each Week, You Guess Which Ones,”), and the zesty vernacular branding of homegrown hot sauce labels. You may even find an actual art Above: Indian Pass Raw Bar, is one of the last bastions of oyster-shacktopia

The Fisherman’s Wife

U.S. 98’s reigning fish house. The fried shrimp basket is highly addictive.

201 8th St. W, Carabelle (850) 697-4533

Spring Creek Restaurant

Revered by locals, the family-managed restaurant with homey, country-lodge decor offers an “Ah, this is it!” vibe from the moment you walk in the door.

The portions are generous, but you’re also feasting on a spirit of tradition, surrounded by North Florida wilderness.

33 Ben Willis Road, Crawfordville (850) 926-3751

Fathom’s Steam Room and Raw Bar

Suck down oysters and beer, with the added attraction of an outside deck and a bandstand that hosts everything from Nashville songwriter weekends to willing, if off-key, cover bands.

102 Ave. A N., Carabelle (850) 697-9712

Ouzts’ Too Oyster Bar and Grill

The original Ouzts’ was legendary for its smoked mullet, fresh-off the boat oysters and chickens that nested in the trees outside a building that looked as if it wouldn’t survive a hurricane.

The more recent version, close by the George Nesmith Bridge over the St. Marks River, is beloved by bikers, rowdy karaoke singers and mullet heads who can’t get enough.

7968 Coastal Highway, Newport (850) 925-6448

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It’s a good sound to wake up to, that heavy ‘thump’ on the deck.

Then the staccato, short drumming that you know is a big grouper slamming his tail up and down, making you jump outta your bunk and run to your bandit.

—Leo Lovel piece or two, like the one nailed up by the outside entrance: an American flag, crafted from part of a wooden crate, some red, white and blue paint, and a few oyster shells for stars.

Truthfully, the atmosphere and personalities in what I might call Shacktopia are as much a part of the appeal as the seafood. Even the extraordinary—and blissfully indulgent—dining at the long-abiding Spring Creek Restaurant isn’t complete without an introduction to the establishment’s paterfamilias, Leo Lovel. Lovel, who has overseen operations at Spring Creek since 1977, is a congenial repository of North Florida Gulf Coast lore, a business-minded outdoorsman whose fried-mullet paradise has weathered the decades of ups and downs suffered by the coast’s signature industry.

Lovel is the author of two volumes of short stories, including Spring Creek Chronicles, published in 2000, a book full of scenery-rich anecdotes, with titles like “Georgia Redneck Sunday Afternoon” and “He Gobbled Himself to Death,” about hunting and fishing in the “old Florida.” In “Grouper,” he captures the excitement of rising to an aquatic alarm clock on a fishing boat.

“It’s a good sound to wake up to, that heavy ‘thump’ on the deck.

Then the staccato, short drumming that you know is a big grouper slamming his tail up and down, making you jump outta your bunk and run to your bandit.”

Lovel also writes in dramatic, unflinching terms of the economic devas-

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tation caused by the net ban a quarter-century ago: “Genocide. The elimination of a culture. No bullets in the head. No mass graves. No artillery fire or jets bombing, but genocide nonetheless. Proud, independent, historical, hard-working families and communities, hung out to whither, die and disappear from the loss of their livelihood.”

The Lovels stuck around. Their restaurant, which sits near the end of a forested road by the titular creek, is a few minutes from Panacea and Wakulla Springs. The spacious interior has the feel of a homey lodge, the portions are ridiculously abundant, and the catfish, mullet and grouper are fried light and fluffy.

Spring Creek Restaurant is not the backwoods grease palace more common to these parts, a visit to which usually requires a post-prandial shampoo to get the slick out of your hair. The parking lot once teemed with stray felines, an inspiration for the song “Cat City,” by 1980s Tallahassee band Persian Gulf, but the frisky critters seem to have found elsewhere to prowl.

They’re missing out. To join friends here—to dig into a triple heap of oysters, shrimp, mullet, cheese grits, iceberg lettuce wedges and the sort of hand-cut French fries that should be a mandatory menu option but only ever seem to show up at places like Spring Creek—may be one of the region’s greatest pleasures. The coastal bounty is not what it once was, and nearby towns are slowly turning into ghosts of themselves, and yet this is not a flicker. It’s the flavor of something stronger than memory and eternally Florida.

Opposite page from top:

Blackened shrimp platter; artisan wooden flag at Indian Pass Raw Bar. This page: Baked oyster platter

at Indian Pass Raw Bar.

Stilted, Jilted & ReBuilted

STILTSVILLE, an outcropping of brightly painted stilt homes standing one mile off the coast of Miami, has captivated the imaginations and the hearts of Floridians for decades, from urban legends about its wild days as an outpost for Prohibition-era gambling and drinking to treasured memories from the actual caretakers who have fought to preserve the area, now a national park, for generations.

By NILA DO SIMON // Photography by MARY BETH KOETH model ANASTASIA ASHLEY // makeup and hair by RACHELE FIALCO styling by MODELCITIZEN and GYPSET & PEARL

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T

he seven wooden structures piercing through the turquoise-blue waters of Miami’s Biscayne Bay make for one of the world’s most majestic—if rarely visited—destinations.

For the few who’ve traveled to the water-enriched community of Stiltsville, these seven structures represent an antidote to the hustle of Miami’s big-city scene. And for the even fewer who’ve set foot in these rustic, primitively equipped cabins, the site is a chance to relax and enjoy the 360-degree views of water typically offered by private islands while actually barely being on land at all.

About a mile from Key Biscayne’s southern tip, Stiltsville’s pastel-colored houses seem to hover above the bay’s glistening water, resting atop tall, stilt-like pilings that stand on seagrass flats. Boaters who stumble upon the structures have said they come out of nowhere, without preamble, a subdivision of seven homes with no entrance or exit signs.

The houses, a waypoint for hundreds of seagulls, have no electricity. Cross winds provide air conditioning. Drinking water and ice, highly coveted commodities, are imported from the mainland. Rustic bunks line the walls of bed-

rooms, and wooden window shutters are all that protect each elevated bungalow’s inhabitants from the elements should an afternoon storm roll in.

To the uninitiated, Stiltsville is the maritime equivalent of Neverland, a fairy-tale-like venue where boys and girls never grow up and can escape from mainland monontony. It’s been that way since the 1930s, when Eddie “Crawfish” Walker and a following of fishermen would congregate in the first shack in the middle of the bay, embracing Old Florida’s bucolic values. The idea of Stiltsville was then born, a concept of a Neverland of sorts that has stood the test of time against all odds—including threats from Mother Nature and mankind—for nearly 90 years.

“Once you reach this part of the bay, Miami is over,” says Julian Siegel, a Fort Lauderdale resident who has escorted his two sons, Ashton, 15, and Hudson, 13, to Stiltsville with their troop of nautical Sea Scouts. “There are no skyscrapers, no high-rises, and you’re in at the edge of the world. It’s the most amazing sensation to be out there in the middle of the water. It makes you wonder what type of craziness took place during the rum-runners’ time.”

Lore has it that Crawfish Walker built a stopping point for fishermen going in and out of the bay, where he’d sell bait, beer and chowder.

As more and more fishermen stopped by, more structures were built, including vacation homes for families looking for their own oasis in the bay.

Far enough away from authorities on dry land, yet a close jaunt from the city, it also proved an ideal Previous spread: Three, two, one, location for Miami’s playjump! An early boys, who operated under morning plunge after sleeping on the premise that whatthe flats ever happened in StiltsAbove: Anastasia ville stayed in Stiltsville. In Ashley perched on the porch 1938, a social space called of the iconic the Calvert Club opened, A-frame house inviting the elite to take Right: The seven remaining their revelry onto the water. houses are like camp Two years later, another cabins, with no social venue—the multielectricity or running water. story Quarterdeck Club—

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opened. If those walls could talk, they might describe a rocking scene with gambling, drinking and exotic dancers.

The good times rolled well into the 1960s and 1970s, when the famed Bikini Club opened with—you guessed it—bikini-clad women blanketing the area. Miami Dolphins part-owner Earl Smalley had created a see-and-be-seen party-like atmosphere at his Stiltsville home. It’s even been rumored that the late Sen. Ted Kennedy held his bachelor party at one of the homes there.

Over the last decade, the watery enclave has evolved into a tamer destination, where families, groups of friends, nature lovers and even corporations congregate for good old-fashioned campouts over the water and under the stars. But stories of the old days have been passed down

through generations like treasured heirlooms.

At its height, Stiltsville was home to 27 structures, mostly owned by well-to-do individuals who had the means to care for the uninsured buildings. Most of these homes succumbed to hurricane damage or fires, leaving the seven remaining buildings to carry on the commuAbove: Anastasia Ashley on the dock nity’s storied legacy. in a suit by Fleur Swim, shorts by J Though its location in an Brand, and tote by oasis in the middle of a Sensi Studio. bay might seem perfect, Right: The construction of ironically, Stiltsville is the A-frame house nearly defenseless before uses remnant wood from a the ravages of powerful church in Miami storms, including Septemand from the old Quarterdeck Club. ber’s Hurricane Irma. At

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one point a category 5 hurricane, Irma’s tropical-storm-strength winds hit Stiltsville with enough impact to damage nearly all of the structures’ docks and railings, as well as the roof of one bungalow. As of this writing, only one of the seven structures has been repaired enough for public use.

FORCES OF NATURE, AND MANKIND As a teenager growing up in Miami in the 1980s, Kevin Mase remembers thinking how fun it would be to own a Stiltsville home. His friend’s uncle owned the house called Bay Chateau and would often invite Mase to come by to provide, in Mase’s words, “some free labor” by pressure washing the home and tidying up. Despite the incessant upkeep needed to maintain an overthe-water property that regularly took heavy beatings from the salt water and whirling winds, even as a teenager Mase saw the upside to owning a Stiltsville cabin.

“Going out there on the weekends formed an impression on me when I was young,” Mase says.

“As much as I like progress and new things, I also like how things used to be, and Stiltsville rep-

resents that. You can appreciate the environment, you can appreciate the clarity of the water and jumping in, swimming back to the structure. You feel like you’re a million miles away from civilization.”

An opportunity to buy a place came nearly a decade later, and Mase and three high school friends pooled their money to purchase Bay Chateau. Built in the 1960s, it’s a two-bedroom, two-bathroom home with a small kitchen and sunken-floor living room and dining area. On a clear day, its bright yellow exterior and sea-foamgreen roof can be spotted miles away.

As the friends’ interest in the structure waxed and waned over the years, Mase’s commitment has remained so steadfast that five years ago he became the chairman of the Stiltsville Trust, a nonprofit organization created to care for and maintain each of the remaining seven buildings and uphold their legacies.

The trust was founded in the early 2000s out of what the homeowners and some politicians felt was a necessity: They wanted to keep Stiltsville away from the destructive hands not of Mother Nature, but of mankind. The story

This page:

Ashley bonds with a Stiltsville pup.

Lots of repairs (and TLC) are still needed five months after Hurricane Irma ripped through Biscayne Bay. The day’s catch on display on ice in a clawfoot bathtub at Stiltsville Fish Bar; chefs Jeff McInnis and Janine Booth named their latest venture after Stiltsville, the location of their first date; a fish bar crowd favorite, sweet corn spoon bread with poached lobster

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GROVE BAY HOSPITALIT Y GROUP, MICHAEL PISARRI

Opposite from left:

THE OTHER STILTSVILLE stiltsville fish bar opened (on dry land) in Miami earlier this year As chefs Jeff McInnis and Janine Booth see it, their newest dining concept shouldn’t be revolutionary, at least not in Florida.

Both McInnis, a Florida native, and the Australianborn Booth longed to celebrate the coastal traditions of fishing and eating responsibly caught fish; they were raised to think this way. What’s more, the two Top Chef alumni wanted to revive the dying art of the independently owned, locally

sourced fish market, something McInnis grew up with in Florida’s Panhandle.

“The area has been screaming for a good, locally focused fish house for some time,” McInnis says of Miami Beach. “We have some great seafood places around us, but they tend to serve tuna, hamachi and other flown-in fishes, and they’re done in Japanese style.

We wanted to bring back the idea of serving local fish that’s simple but beautifully prepared,

whether by us or the consumer.”

The result is Stiltsville Fish Bar, a seafood restaurant and fish market under one roof that opened last September in Miami.

The pair named the restaurant after Stiltsville, the iconic village of seven houses built on stilts in Biscayne Bay, because it was the location of their first date and a place that Booth describes as “magical.” The 4,000-square-foot space has a dining room, complete with

a bar and lounge, as well as indoor and outdoor seating. (A rooftop expansion is also in the works.)

In addition, there’s a fish market where shoppers can drop in to purchase daily catches, along with the same sauces and accoutrements that the chefs use to prepare meals from the restaurant’s menu.

McInnis and Booth are no strangers to the chef-driven restaurant concept.

Their Southerninspired Root & Bone restaurant opened in 2014 in

New York City’s hip East Village. But this time, instead of their much-lauded fried chicken, the pair are hedging their bets on the fresh catches of the day.

They work with eight different fishing fleets, from Stuart to Key West and the Gulf of Mexico, for the seafood, which is either line-caught or caught with a net smaller than 10 feet by 10 feet.

Each night, the menu includes what was hauled in by the fleet that day; sometimes, that involves a species the chefs have never heard of.

“The other day, the fishermen brought in kingklip, which is an eel-like fish that swims thousands of feet under the sea,” McInnis says. “I’ve never worked

with it before, but we were able to prepare a beautiful presentation.”

“You will never see salmon or tuna, or anything that comes out of Japan or the Mediterranean, in our restaurant,” Booth adds. “We really want to help the local fishermen that we’re working with. People know their salmons and their tunas, so it’s amazing for us to promote the fish that we love, but aren’t known to locals.”

Booth and McInnis say nothing is ever frozen in their restaurant.

Well, except for one thing. They explain that the restaurant only has one freezer, measuring about 2 feet by 2 feet. After all, they have to keep the ice cream somewhere.

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goes that sometime in the early 1970s authorities began to consider some type of regulation of the otherwise lawless Stiltsville. In 1976, the Florida Department of Natural Resources recommended letting all Stiltsville leases expire on July 1, 1999, essentially shutting down the community when the clock struck midnight on July 1 and prepar-

When people get introduced to Stiltsville for the first time, when you open the structure to them, it’s meaningful.

They remember that moment forever.

—kevin mase

ing for its eventual demolition. To compound matters, owners were instructed to remove the homes at their own expense, forced to pay for a demolition that they didn’t even want. Adding the proverbial salt to the wound, in 1985 the National Park Service acquired the land at the bottom of the bay, which meant that each lease was now in their hands. Residents had to pay $1,000 each year to “rent” their own homes.

For Stiltsville families who had seen their homes pass through generations of hands, the idea that only one more generation could enjoy Neverland didn’t sit well. From the perspective of the National Park Service, private use of park property could not go on. After several more years of squabbling between homeowners and government officials—which gave way to lease extensions, eviction notices and several sides pitted against one another, including an emergent Save Old Stiltsville rallying support group— the two parties eventually reached an agreement. Since the mid-2000s, the structures have belonged to the National Park Service, the former homeowners maintain the responsibility of caring for their buildings, and the structures are available for public use via permits approved by the Stiltsville Trust.

To most people, relinquishing ownership of a home to become caretaker of a space shared with the public is the equivalent of having your resThis page: idence ripped from you Ashely paddles between Stiltsville while strangers meander structures in Biscayne Bay. through it every so often.

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But if that’s the compromise Stiltsville caretakers needed to make to save the homesites, then they would do it a thousand times over.

“These structures are the identity of this community,” Mase says. “There’s a sense of community out there. The houses are all unique and different, but yet they are all the same because they represent Stiltsville. It’s my identity to Miami.”

In fact, Mase and the other former owners seem happy to share their love of this slice of paradise with others who would normally never have the chance to set foot in one of the wooden bungalows. To date, the structures have hosted boy scout troops, school groups, burials at sea and at-risk kids from Miami who had never seen the ocean before.

“You have a sense of pride, a sense of duty to introduce people to Stiltsville,” Mase says.

“When people see Stiltsville for the first time, when you open the structure to them, it’s meaningful. They remember that moment forever.”

FIGHTING FOR ITS FUTURE

from Florida: the boating lifestyle and Stiltsville.

Raised in Miami, Davis had heard of this mythical place, where one’s troubles melt away alongside the undulating bay current, as a child. But it wasn’t until he retired after 25 years with the Coral Gables Fire Department that he started visiting Stiltsville.

“A friend had said that now that I was retired, I needed to buy a boat,” Davis says. “And if you buy a boat, you need to go to Stiltsville. To put it in perspective, in Miami, there’s bound to be someone who just cut you off in the middle of I-95 or someone who just had a bad day at work.

And guess where I’m at? I’m on the dock listening to a bird chirp. It’s a very tranquil place where you can be removed from the rest of the world.”

Davis joined the Miami Springs Power Boat Club, a group of 75 boat Above: Stiltsvillians enthusiasts, many of feel a deep sense them firefighters, teachof community and responsibility ers and police officers, to maintain the who socialize both on dry structures. land and on the water.

Left: No more bootlegging, but The Miami Springs the good times still roll out on the flats.

Power Boat Club takes

PHOTO CREDIT ISTOCK; BIKINI BY MODELCITIZEN

For retired firefighter Charles Davis, there are two obstacles keeping him from moving away

care of Stiltsville structure No. 7. Prior to last year’s devasation by Hurricane Irma, the Club had sprawling dock space for about 15 boats— quite expansive when compared with the other structures, which accommodate one or two boats. The club hosted epic get-togethers for up to 200 guests, including fishing tournaments for kids and civic groups.

“One year, a [mentally disabled] girl reeled in a fish with some help, and she earned herself a trophy,” says Davis, who has served as the group’s commodore on and off for the past 12 years.

“Later, we received a letter telling us how the tournament made her year and how she was showing off her trophy to everyone. Stories don’t get much better than that.”

The narrative has changed tremendously since Hurricane Irma blew through Florida. Davis says the club’s structure isn’t ready for the public. The house and the docks received several hundred

thousand dollars’ worth of damage. Along with other caretakers, Davis believes another rallying call to save old Stiltsville is in order. This time he hopes that donors will contribute to the Stiltsville Trust to salvage these structures from the latest chapter of destruction.

It’s something that Siegel hopes comes to

party, but they love it. In turn, they receive the rare experience of truly living the salt life: fishing, snorkeling and jumping off the docks into the crystal-blue waters.

To be sure, because Stiltsville is part of the National Parks Service, caretakers emphasize that nothing natural can be disturbed by people or taken from the area. After last year’s storm, the troop was devastated to hear of the damages to the structures—so much so that they sent a boat full of scouts to clean up the debris around Stiltsville. For Siegel, it’s the least they could do to help preserve Neverland, where his boys can still be boys for a while longer.

“To know that you have this treasure that so many people love and care about, and at a whim Mother Nature can erase, it’s devastating,” Siegel says. “Once it’s erased, it belongs to Biscayne Bay. So we need to treasure it for as long as we can.”

In Miami, there’s bound to be someone who just cut you off in the middle of I-95 or someone who just had a bad day at work.

And guess where I’m at?

— Charles davis

fruition. The Fort Lauderdale dad’s two sons, Ashton and Hudson, look forward to going out to Stiltsville with their troop to perform service projects on the Miami Springs Power Boat Club’s structure, like repairing rotted wood, cleaning seagull poo and other jobs. It’s a work

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— sunny dispatches from NW FLA —

Panhandling B y P ri ssy E l ro d

what really bugs me

How the Sunshine State’s tiniest icons cause the biggest fuss

I

OK, “for busy ladies” is nicer, although busy and lazy are both ridiculous reasons to pay someone to wash my hair. But I don’t care. Call me a busy, lazy author.

I was sitting in the chair with my hair squeaky clean, feeling so happy. It takes so little to get me there. According to Gary Chapman’s book

The 5 Love Languages, my language is “acts of service.”

“How do you want it styled today?” she asked.

“Big, real big. That way it’ll last a few days.”

“No problem, I can make it big.” And she did. She teased it high with long, dangling curls, sprayed stiff. It would last for days, if not weeks.

I climbed out of her chair and bounced myself right on out of there, wearing my new prom do. It was dark, almost 6:00 p.m., when I pulled into my neighborhood. I drove the winding road with my bright lights shining. I stopped at the end of our driveway to grab the mail. I never retrieve mail at night, but decided to make an exception.

I’d been waiting for Flamingo’s winter issue.

GARRET T ROBINSON

t was hump day, a Wednesday. I’d been out of town Monday and Tuesday and was leaving the next day for the rest of the week. I had one day to do what women do.

Which, by the way, is everything for everyone.

I left Whole Foods with a carload of groceries. My busy brain was making a mental list of what I still needed to do. I calculated it would take an hour to blow out my long hair. I was dreading the whole ordeal: washing, drying, curling the frizzy strands. A time stealer, that’s what that was. Not to mention the unpacking, repacking, blah, blah, blah.

I was heading north on Thomasville Road when I passed Haute Headz, a local hair salon. A lightbulb went off. I made an unlawful U-turn and drove back to the salon. A shampoo bar, the trend for lazy gals, is what I needed.

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Panhandling

Without street lights, it was darker than dark.

We have an extra-large mailbox built inside a six-foot column covered with fig ivy. I jumped from my car and looked inside the galvanized steel box, but it was too dark to see if there was any mail. I reached far inside with both arms outstretched and my head halfway in, felt for the stack and pulled it out. With the mail and my five bags of groceries, I pulled inside the garage, and the unloading began.

I’d been home about an hour. My groceries were put away, and it was already after 7 o’clock. It was time to cook dinner. Remember, women do everything. I pulled our entree—a frozen pizza—from the freezer and doctored it up with eggplant, arugula, tomatoes and garlic.

I was chopping eggplant, sipping wine and listening to Alexa play Ed Sheeran when I felt a whisk above my hair.

I looked up toward my pot rack. I saw nothing and was still chopping when Dale, my husband, walked into the kitchen.

He was hungry, and his cook was slow.

“Hey, can you see if there’s something in my hair?” He walked around the island to where I stood and looked over his reading glasses. I lowered my head. He brushed the top of my tease. “Nope, I don’t see anything.”

“Look again, do it better than that, please.”

Men! I swear. He pulled and parted my hair with his oversized fingers. “Nope, still nothing there.”

“You’re positive? I swear I felt something.”

“There’s nothing there, Prissy.” He was hungry.

“Do you see any cobwebs?” I pointed to the pot rack above me.

“Nope, I don’t see anything up there either.”

He walked out, heading back to his study. I went back to chopping, sipping and singing along with Ed. My oven beeped that it had reached 425 degrees, and I grabbed my pizza. When I bent down to put it in the oven, the unthinkable happened. A cockroach crawled out of my coiffure and down my face. Then it fell from my

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face to the arugula stacked atop the pizza crust and from there to my right foot. It was then that Dale heard curdling screams and a crashing pan.

Bang! Shriek! Oh, s---! I ran to the shower to undo my updo.

I spent 40 minutes in the shower, scrubbing hair, scalp and body. And Dale, that poor man.

I blamed him for not finding the roach when he examined my hair.

“I told you before, never get the mail at night.

They live in that fig ivy and crawl in our mailbox at night.”

“You never told me that. I don’t remember you telling me that,” I kept saying. “It burrowed in my hair for over an hour. What if she was pregnant and laid eggs?”

“That’s crazy, not even possible, Prissy.”

“Okay, it’s unlikely, but it could happen. An egg capsule can be inside from 12 hours to five days.

The incubation is 42 to 81 days.

An ootheca can contain up to 50 eggs.

An egg becomes an adult roach in 103 days. A pregnant roach can form from six to 90 ootheca. One female roach can produce 90 to 1,350 babies and they hatch in 24 to 38 days.”

“Have you been on Wikipedia again?” he asked.

“Yes, I have. Don’t forget about that damn spider.”

The spider saga happened to me on a cold winter night a few years back. I was minding my own business, soaking in a tub full of Epsom salts and lavender bubbles, with a scented candle burning next to my head. The ambiance was magazine-perfect until I spotted a spider on the white limestone tile. I was sure it was a brown recluse. After all, it was brown. I watched as it ran across my slippers next to the tub.

“Dale!” I screamed.

He ran from his office lickety-quick. By the way, I’ve learned that, if you yell for a man, not at them, well, they just do better. Period.

“You scared me to death. What?” He could see my eyes above the bubbles and salt. “God, I thought you’d fallen.”

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“Look, it’s a recluse!” I screamed, as though it were his fault.

“Where? That’s no recluse. It’s a baby wolf.” The man is calm, not to mention smart.

“I don’t care what it is. Get it out. Look how big he is.”

He grabbed a tissue to scoop him up. But the moment he placed the tissue over the spider, it exploded. Like fireworks. There were hundreds—if not thousands—of tiny spiders dispersing from that one speck.

It wasn’t a he, but a she. I was a crazed, screaming, naked lunatic. Days later, I searched Wiki-know-everything and learned that a mama spider can haul up to 1,500 babies. Having remembered the spider incident, I checked to see if the roach that crawled around my head might be pregnant.

Hello, who wouldn’t?

It was then, while doing research online about roaches and reproduction, that I learned that some states have an official insect. I had no idea. Florida picked the zebra longwing butterfly. It’s such a pretty specimen for our state. It is. But, from my experiences, the most iconic Florida insect is not a butterfly but rather the cockroach.

We can dress up that nasty-ass creepy crawler with a fancy name, but it’s still a cockroach. I would rather wake up to an alligator spooning me than even see one of those things. And that spooning alligator could be wearing a moccasin around his fat neck. Gators and snakes don’t scare me. But a roach! God made them by mistake.

Back in the kitchen, Dale was tired of listening to my reflective roach story. But I didn’t care, and just kept on keeping on.

During my talkfest, I brought up another experience that contributed to my insect phobia. It occurred decades ago, when I was three months into my newest career— motherhood. I had decided to pack up my new baby girl, Garrett, for a drive to my hometown, Lake City. My sister lived in the country a few miles away. I went to visit and

COURTESY OF PRISSY ELROD

sunny dispatches from NW FLA

see her farmhouse. When my baby started fussing, I laid her in their crib, which was located in a guest room.

We were 30 minutes into our chitchat when I heard a piercing scream coming from the crib room. Because I had recently read that it’s okay to let a crying baby cry itself back to sleep, I ignored her sweet little self and let her fuss a few minutes longer. But the screams got louder. I decided to ignore my mommy manual and check on Garrett.

I cracked the door for a peek. I can’t even describe the horror. Termites were swarming the room, crawling on the ceiling, crib and walls. There were hundreds of them, dropping by the gallon into the crib, onto my pile of pink. My captive child was on her back, eyes wide open, scared to death. She was thrashing with her little arms and legs. I can’t even …

Dale interrupted me in the middle of telling the termite story for the thousandth time.

“I’ll spray the mailbox.”

“No, you can’t spray toxic chemicals.”

I’m an off-the-chart organic snob. As an alternative, he armed our mailbox with a bag of mothballs. Now the whole mailbox—and all the mail—smells mothy and stinky. Plus, I remain suspicious of everything inside, including envelopes and catalogs. I’m now spraying the mail with Lysol.

I know what you may be thinking. She needs therapy. And yes, I probably do.

Dr. Phil would probably say, “It’s not about the insects, Prissy. Let’s talk about what’s really troubling you.”

And I’d say, “Buzz off, Dr. Phil!”

Equal treatment should include your paycheck, too. Call Kelly.

ChanfrauLaw.com 386.258.7313 ATTORNEYS | OFFICES IN DAYTONA BEACH & PALM COAST

Bird is the word.

Like us on Facebook @facebook.com/ flamingomag Follow us on Instagram @TheFlamingoMag and Twitter @TheFlamingoMag

Join the chatter.

Prissy Elrod is a professional speaker, artist and humorist and the author of Far Outside the Ordinary. She was born and raised in Lake City and now lives in Tallahassee with her husband, Dale. Chasing Ordinary, the sequel to Far Outside the Ordinary, will be released in 2018.

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[ — fin e arts, favor ites, f lings —

ON THE FLY — THE STUDIO —

Panhandle artist Gordie Hinds is the ultimate outsider

— FLORIDA WILD —

Following the black bear through the F l o r i d a Wi l d l i f e C o r r i d o r

— GROVE STAND —

A f o r m i d a b l e f e m a l e c h e f t i l l s O r l a n d o ’s c u l i n a r y s o i l

— FLAMINGLE —

At home with the boys of spring (training, that is)

— THE ROOST —

Organic abodes that channel the late, great F r a n k L l o y d Wr i g h t

— THE TIDE —

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ON THE FLY:THE STUDIO FLOR IDA ARTIST PR OF ILES

By Nila Do Simon

GONE PAINTIN’

Avid outdoorsman Gordie Hinds’s

on canvas

T

he business stationery at Gordie Hinds Santa Rosa Beach studio is imprinted with the words “Artist. Angler. Misanthrope.”

To try and understand Hinds is to appreciate how those three words relate to him. First, nothing about the 61-year-old’s past suggests that he’s an artistic savant.

After all, the self-taught painter, whose artwork has graced the multimillion-dollar homes of everyone from automobile industry executives to Florida retirees, didn’t set out to become an artist until he was in his late forties. Now Hinds work—which mainly depicts coastal scenes, fishing moments and beloved dogs—has become synonymous with

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the laid-back yet upscale lifestyle of the northwest quadrant of Florida’s Gulf Coast.

The son of a career Navy man, Hinds rarely called a place home for more than

two years in a row as a child, something that helped shape his work ethic. “When you move around all your life, you sort of have a

tendency to go big, because you never know how long you’re going to be in one place,” Hinds says. “And I think that sticks with you as an adult. With my painting, I figured if I’m going to do it, I’ll go hard at it.”

The angler, hunter and charter boat captain attacks everything he does with a similar zeal.

He had successful ventures as a designer and merchandiser at Columbia Sportswear and the fly-fishing gear manufacturer Orvis before switching careers to raise performance horses in Portland, Oregon. In 1997, he sold his horse farm and moved to Florida to settle into a property he had purchased years before.

After a while, he started painting. As Hinds tells it, he mindlessly picked up a paintbrush after a visit to his ex-wife’s art gallery, where,

COURTESY GORDIE HINDS

Above from left: Beach Point, Lab Dip, and Laundry Day by artist Gordie Hinds Below: Hinds casting a line into the Gulf of Mexico, perhaps thinking of his next painting. Opposite from top: More pieces from Hinds’s studio: untitled and Memphis Blues

seeing the artwork, he thought he could paint just as well as the artists exhibiting there. And, to his own surprise, he did.

Since then, Hinds has turned his artistry into a successful business, painting 60 or so commissioned pieces each year. His wife, Susan, describes his work as “Hemingwayesque,” a term she applies to the work of “a man with a large life—who’s lived large.”

Which brings us to the stationery’s last term: misanthrope. Cautious not to take himself too seriously, Hinds lets slip not-so-subtle hints of deprecation and wry realism that could easily have him mistaken for a swashbuckling sailor instead of a highly soughtafter artist. When asked if he enjoys painting, Hinds responds, “I enjoy it, but am I impassioned about doing it?

Occasionally. It pays me enough to allow me to do what I want to do, which is to screw off and fish.”

Still, if actions speak louder than words, then Hinds’ daily activities belie any cynical persona he presents. He clocks into his studio at around 2 a.m. (3 a.m. at the latest) and paints all day, every day. He sketches constantly, even when he’s not in the studio. One of the pieces he’s working on today—a painting commissioned by a son who wanted to honor his father, portraying a sailboat the two had been building together before his father’s death—has gotten even the normally misanthropic Hinds emotional.

“Yeah, that story got me,” Hinds says.

“I say no to doing a lot of paintings, but I couldn’t say no to a story like that one.”

IN THE GARDEN FEBRUARY 2 THROUGH APRIL 22 From famous public spaces to the simplest home vegetable garden, and from worlds imagined by artists to food production recorded by journalists, this exhibition broadens our understanding of how photography has been used to record gardens and document humans’ relationship to nature.

Organized by the George Eastman Museum For more information, visit cummermuseum.org.

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ON THE FLY: FLORIDA WILD P H OTOGR APHS & F IELD NOTES B y C ar lton War d Jr.

OLD Iron Hide

I

met my first Florida black bear up close in 2006 while photographing a cattle ranch in Highlands County near Archbold Biological Station, halfway between Lake Placid and Palmdale. A biologist named Joe Guthrie was catching bears and using GPS collars to study their movements. I knew Florida had bears in big protected areas like Ocala National Forest and Big Cypress National Preserve, but I did not know about the smaller bear populations in between, such as those in Highlands and Glades counties that survived on private ranchlands.

Guthrie’s GPS collars revealed the statewide importance of this little-known bear population and the lands they inhabit. Black bears once thrived coast to coast throughout Florida. But as the human population has grown, bears have been squeezed into inland forests. An unintended consequence of our buildings and roads has been the breaking apart of their natural habitat into shrinking and increasingly disconnected fragments.

The black bear can show us how to save wild Florida. These bears live in seven distinct subpopulations, whose homes range from Panhandle pine forests to the cypress swamps of the Everglades. If we protect wildlife corridors, the land needed to keep Florida’s seven bear populations

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connected, we will ultimately save the green infrastructure needed to sustain the health of other wildlife species and ourselves. The bears inspired a group of conservationists, including me, to found the Florida Wildlife Corridor campaign.

We then followed in the footsteps of black bears for two 1,000-mile expeditions to show that the statewide Florida Wildlife Corridor still exists and can be saved.

I named the bear pictured here, “Iron Hide.” When I captured this frame in December 2009, I had been working dawn to dusk from a tree stand on a Highlands County ranch. Guthrie came by one morning with his dart rifle and placed a perfect shot to a bear’s rear haunches from 15 yards away. Somehow, the dart bounced off. This large male bear, with his distinctive chest blaze, evaded being collared but appeared the next day in front of my camera trap. Another bear Guthrie collared that month ended up going on a 500-mile walk the following summer, connecting the outskirts of Orlando to the edges of Fort Myers and just about everywhere in between: cattle ranch, orange grove, tree farm, bombing range, state park, national wildlife refuge—different zones, but all connected common ground. Hopefully, the story of the bear can help us keep it that way.

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ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND SEASON’S EATINGS

By Laur a R ei l ey • P h o t o g ra p h y b y L i b b y Vo l g y es

YES, Chef!

Kathleen Blake has built a loyal following and sterling reputation with her farm-to-table restaurant the Rusty Spoon in downtown Orlando.

W

hen Kathleen Blake worked in the kitchen of the celebrated Square One in San Francisco, she was chef and owner Joyce Goldstein’s first pregnant employee. The men in the kitchen were concerned. How would it work? Could Blake carry her weight in this fast-paced pressure cooker? Goldstein asked Blake, “You got this?” “Yup” was the answer. End of discussion.

Blake has been mentored by a series of female chefs throughout her life.

Now at the helm of her award-winning restaurant, The Rusty Spoon in Orlando, she is a mentor to young female chefs.

At 51, she has been a James Beard Award semifinalist for the best chef in the South in 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2017.

Blake, who ran the scholarship program for Women Chefs & Restaurateurs for 13 years, credits chefs like Goldstein and Melissa Kelly of Primo in Rockland, Maine, and the JW Marriott Grande Lakes in Orlando, for their teaching and toughness, but her exposure to strong women in the kitchen goes back much further than that.

Blake grew up in Dyersville, Iowa, a small town, population 4,058, about 45 miles northeast of Cedar Rapids. She had

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four siblings, and her mother fed the family culinary apprenticeship program, did food rib-sticking meatloaves and pot roasts. It was prep for a food stylist at Sunset magazine her paternal grandmother, Stacia Osterhaus, and worked in the cafeteria at the Park who sparked her interest in food. Her Hyatt. She got the chance to stage—a sort grandmother, who lived a block away, was old of culinary internship—at Masa under school and proud of her German heritage; she notoriously exacting chef Julian Serrano. made her own sausage and had a big garden.

“I stuck it out six months. There was Blake owns her butcher saw to only one woman on the hot this day. line. [Serrano] offered me a “She had 18 grandkids, 15 job in pastry—this after I’d THE of whom were weekly visitors julienned thousands of pounds RUSTY SPOON for Sunday supper,” Blake says, of potatoes. I let ego get the — LOCATION — sitting in her dining room before better of me. My regret is I 55 W. CHURCH ST. ORLANDO the dinner rush. “She had a turned it down.”

— HOURS — whole fruit cellar filled with She married William Blake MON.–FRI. 11 A.M.–3 P.M. crocks. She would be brining in 1990. They moved 17 NIGHTLY 5 P.M.–10 P.M. and pickling every which way. times in seven years while therustyspoon.com I would stay with her Saturday he worked for Hyatt Hotels

night and prep, and we’d Corporation. They had four make a huge breakfast the next children together, so they morning. My uncle says I was playing with a worked opposite shifts to ensure there was cardboard kitchen in the basement when I was always coverage at home. It wasn’t easy three. I think I always wanted to cook.” being a female chef in the 1980s, she says, She moved to San Francisco as a young adult but the early 1990s were heady times in the to attend the City College of San Francisco’s San Francisco Bay Area. There were larger-

Top: Blake’s Lake

Meadow “red devil” stuffed eggs Above: Find recipe for Jamison Farm lamb shank at flamingomag.com Opposite: Blake’s charred squid and octopus

Lake Meadow “Red Devil” Stuffed Eggs S e rv e s 1 2 2 dozen farm fresh eggs 2 tablespoons freshly chopped dill, plus additional for garnish 2 tablespoons freshly chopped chives, plus additional for garnish 2 tablespoons finely chopped cornichons with some of the juice 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon regular paprika 1 medium lemon, zested and juiced 1 1/2 cups good quality mayonnaise Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper Splash of Tabasco sauce PREPARATION: Add eggs to a large pot.

Cover with water and add a generous amount of salt. Bring to a hard boil. Turn off the heat and cover. Let eggs stand for 11 minutes. In a large mixing bowl, make a salted ice bath large enough to cover the cooked eggs. Transfer eggs to the ice bath. Let stand until eggs completely cool. Carefully peel eggs and cut in half.

Separate the yolks from the whites.

Carefully rinse the whites so that no yellow residue remains. Pulse yolks and any cracked whites in a food processor or in the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Stop pulsing when the mixture reaches a pebble-like texture. You don’t want the consistency to be creamy at this point. Add the herbs, chopped cornichons, spices and lemon. Fold in the mayonnaise, and add the cornichon juice to loosen the mixture. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the Tabasco sauce. Fill a pastry bag with the mixture and stuff the halved egg whites. Garnish with dill and chives. Recipe notes: Be creative with the garnishes.

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ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND SEASON’S EATINGS

than-life personalities like Elka Gilmore of Elka, Barbara Tropp of China Moon, Nancy Oakes of Boulevard, Judy Rodgers of Zuni Cafe and then, of course, the grande dame, Alice Waters of Chez Panisse.

By the early 2000s, the family had moved from San Antonio to Pittsburgh and then Washington, D.C., where she began working at Restaurant Nora, the country’s first certified organic restaurant, presided over by Nora Pouillon. Her first day was Sept. 11, 2001. Driving to work that morning, she didn’t know about the planes that had crashed into the twin towers and the Pentagon. But she would play a role in the healing.

“We cooked for everyone in the neighborhood those first days [after 9/11],” she says. “I worked for [Nora] for two years. She had great relationships with farmers. The food was intensely seasonal and simply prepared with no waste.”

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She met Kelly, the chef and owner of Primo, at a Women Chefs & Restaurateurs event. They bonded while rolling ravioli. Blake ended up becoming Kelly’s chef de cuisine at Primo Orlando and worked there for five years. Eventually, she and her husband were ready to do something on their own. She had a good network of farmers in Florida and knew people in the community.

In 2011, she took the plunge and built The Rusty Spoon in Orlando’s Church Street Historical District downtown, an area just beginning to generate buzz. The restaurant is now the area’s upscale dining anchor, cultivating a seasonal, farm-to-table approach

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that has won her a slew of regional awards.

Accolades don’t matter, however, when she’s on the line.

“Hammock Hollow delivered 22 boxes today, and I don’t know what it all is,” Blake says before returning to her kitchen, which is populated with strong women.

“Probably red thumb fingerlings and purple daikon and broccolini. It’s about being resourceful, not letting things end up in the bin. I like that challenge.”

Right: Executive

Chef and owner Kathleen Blake

Opposite:

Remodeled cobbler

Remodeled Cobbler S e rv e s 6

MACERATED STRAWBERRIES: 1 pound Florida strawberries, hulled and sliced into rounds 2 tablespoons sugar PREPARATION: Mix fruit and sugar in a large bowl. Let mixture rest for 30 minutes.

BISCUIT TOPPING: 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar, divided 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 4 tablespoons cold butter, cubed 2 tablespoons buttermilk 2 tablespoons heavy cream 1/4 cup dark chocolate chips powdered sugar for garnish PREPARATION: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk together flour, 1/4 cup sugar, baking powder, salt and baking soda. Work butter into dry mixture.

Add liquids, mixing until dough looks a little raggy. Add the chocolate chips.

Crumble onto a parchment-lined baking

pan. Sprinkle with remaining sugar. Bake 10 minutes until lightly golden and just starting to get firm.

LEMON CURD: 4 Meyer lemons, zested and juiced 1/2 cup sugar 2 large eggs 1 stick unsalted butter PREPARATION: Bring a double boiler full of water to a simmer and reduce heat to low. In a heat-proof bowl, beat the eggs.

Add sugar and butter. Set the bowl over the double boiler. Cook, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, until the mixture begins to warm and thicken. Once the mixture reaches 160 degrees, remove from heat. Place bowl into a larger bowl filled with ice and stir until cool. Refrigerate.

COBBLER

Add the lemon curd to a mixing bowl.

Gently fold in 1 1/2 cups of the whipped cream.

PREPARATION: To assemble, dollop a large spoonful of the lemon cream into serving bowls. Add a spoonful of the macerated berries on top. Top with the warm biscuit crumbles and dust with powdered sugar. Finish each dessert with a dollop of the remaining whipped cream.

WHIPPED CREAM: 1 cup heavy whipping cream 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract PREPARATION: Whip cream in a chilled bowl with the mixer on low speed. Once the cream gets to the soft peak stage, add the sugar and vanilla extract. Whip until it just holds a peak. You should have 2 cups of whipped cream. Keep refrigerated.

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WADING IN :FLAMINGLE A FLO C K OF FASCINATING F LOR IDIANS

BATTER UP

In the dugout with the Sunshine State’s top MLB players Catch them getting into the swing of things this spring JOSH DONALDSON

The Bringer of the Rain

Forever Floridian

ANDREW MCCUTCHEN

DANIEL MURPHY

Most Valuable Proposer

Dad of the Year

Baseball runs in the blood of the Castellanos boys.

For Nick, 25, who’s played right field and third base for the Detroit Tigers since 2013, growing up in sunny Davie meant he had plenty of time to play ball with his brother, Ryan.

The stars nearly aligned for the two in 2015 when the Tigers selected Ryan, two years Nick’s junior, during the 25th round of the draft. Nick was even asked to announce his brother’s name. “I know my mom is really excited,” Nick told reporters after calling in Ryan. Their reunion was short-lived, as the Tigers moved Ryan to the minor leagues the next day. See Nick make a basket catch at Publix Field in Lakeland.

New York Mets starting pitcher Jacob deGrom, 29, might shy away from publicity, but the cameras love his flowing locks. His big hair and personality have inspired memes like “the deGrominator” and #HairWeGo. When it comes to likability, deGrom scores a home run with fans, who like his on-field demeanor, the hometown love story he shares with his wife, Stacey, and his pet Morkie, Pixie. Despite the support of their fans, the young family reportedly isn’t quite taken with the Big Apple. They live in his hometown of DeLand during the off-season. See the ace throw heat this spring at First Data Field in Port St. Lucie.

Few players are as wellrounded as Fort Meade’s Andrew McCutchen, who was traded by the Pittsburgh Pirates to the San Fransisco Giants this year.

Not only has the right fielder excelled in professional sports but he’s also a hopeless romantic. In 2013, after winning the league’s MVP award, he proposed to his then-girlfriend Maria on The Ellen DeGeneres Show with a speech no sane person could refuse.

“I’ve always envisioned that I would be on the highest mountain in the world,” he said, “and that my voice would be as loud as a lion’s roar, times a billion, so that the whole world could hear me just tell you how much I love you.” He now trains in the Cactus League.

March 31, 2014, was a milestone for second baseman and Jacksonville native Daniel Murphy.

Sure, it was the Opening Day game between his then-employer the New York Mets and the Washington Nationals, but it was also the day his son, Noah, was born. Murphy, 32, who now plays for the Nationals, took flak from a few radio commentators on his decision to take three days off for his son’s birth. He never retreated.

Instead, he used his voice to highlight issues around paternal rights, even speaking at the White House Summit on Working Families. See him hit homers at The Ballpark of the Palm Beaches in West Palm Beach.

JACOB DEGROM

ILLUSTR ATION BY STEPHEN LOMAZZO

Winning the league’s MVP award would be the pinnacle of many professional baseball players’ careers. For Josh Donaldson, 32, a Pensacola native and third baseman for the Toronto Blue Jays, the 2015 distinction was quickly eclipsed by the experience of having a guest appearance on the History Channel series Vikings. “This is something that I’ve always wanted to do,” Donaldson told cameras while filming on the set of season four. After the “Bringer of Rain,” as his Twitter handle identifies him transformed into Viking warrior Hoskuld, Donaldson said the experience made him feel closer to his ancestors. See him round the bases at Dunedin Stadium in Dunedin.

Baseball Brother

NICK CASTELLANOS

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ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE B y B et t y C o rt i n a -Wei ss

The Wright Stuff

Frank Lloyd Wright’s organic designs made an everlasting mark on America’s architectural identity. These four homes pay homage to his legacy.

Jupiter

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ONE SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALT Y

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right’s belief that buildings should grow naturally from their surroundings influenced most of his work, and it’s this principle that inspired this magnificent, one-of-akind 7,300-square-foot home with wide water views of the Loxahatchee River. It features four bedrooms and a two-story master suite that includes two private patios, a terrace, an office, a hot tub and an adjacent putting green. With impactresistant glass windows, doors designed to stand up to wind and a whole-house generator, the property is ready for anything nature might throw its way.

5511 River Cove, Jupiter List Price: $11,800,000

ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE

F

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BOCA RATON

rank Lloyd Wright was famous for his use of organic materials and his insistence that they be treated with care. This stunner of a home in Boca Raton’s historic Old Floresta neighborhood embodies that philosophy beautifully with its tongue-and-groove wood ceilings and coral stone wood-burning fireplace. The one-story, 3,400-square-foot house has four bedrooms and two bathrooms, with an open layout and floor-toceiling windows that blur the line between what’s indoors and what’s outside—another Wright trademark feature. In the garden, an elegant patio, a pool and lush landscaping create the perfect respite.

800 Aurelia St., Boca Raton List Price: $1,593,500

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MIAMI BEACH

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DOUGL AS ELLIMAN

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right saw each of his buildings as an artistic creation, every individual part designed to compose a coherent whole, a principle on glorious display in this elegant estate on Miami Beach’s exclusive Pine Tree Drive, home to some of the city’s most fabulous residences.

With nine bedrooms and 10 baths, the limestone structure features curmaru wood overhangs, mahogany windows and doors, and furnishings by Holly Hunt and Christian Liaigre. An expansive courtyard and a two-story gazebo with a full kitchen, bathroom, outdoor shower and fireplace make the home as opulent as it is organic.

4609 Pine Tree Drive, Miami Beach List Price: $29,500,000

ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE

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his 3,100-square-foot masterpiece, designed by the late Robert Broward, a Jacksonville legend and student of Wright, sits on a 7-acre lot lined with oak trees. Greatly influenced by his mentor, who famously insisted homes should seamlessly integrate into their geography and landscape, Broward was known for honoring Florida’s tropical elements. Here, he used cedar and glass to create a floor plan that offers views of the outdoors from every room. In addition to the main structure, the property includes a three-bedroom waterfront guest house, a fenced pasture with room for four horses, a barn and a private dock.

1335 Windsor Harbor Drive, Jacksonville List Price: $7,500,000

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ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROAD TR IP–WORTHY EVENTS (NORTH) TALLAHASSEE FILM FESTIVAL TA L LA H A S S E E

March 23–25

Above: When and If is an 83’ Alden schooner, commissioned by General George S. Patton in 1939. Below left: Tallahassee Film Festival organizers in character on the red carpet Below right: The anticipated oyster roast at Fish to Fork in Amelia Island

Oxford American editor Eliza Borné. Tedeschi Trucks Band headlines this year’s musical lineup. Eateries, rare booksellers and artisans populate the festival grounds in the heart of town. wordofsouthfestival.com

crafts on a Sail Away tour or splurge on VIP Viewing Party tickets, featuring after-hours access, coastal bites from top local chefs, complimentary libations and live entertainment. tallshipspensacola.com

TALL SHIPS CHALLENGE GULF COAST RACE SERIES

A M E L I A I S LA N D

P E N S A C O LA

WORD OF SOUTH TA L LA H A S S E E

April 13–15

This three-day celebration of words—written, spoken and belted out in song—unfurls on the state’s capital in an annual festival of music and literature rooted in the South. Cascades Park, a grassy knoll punctuated by the Tallahassee skyline, blossoms with national and local talent, with readings by such notable word smiths as songwriter Loudon Wainwright III, culinary penman John T. Edge, author and Flamingo columnist Diane Roberts, and

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April 12–15 Take a trip to an era in which iron-hulled giants owned the seas and much of the modern world remained unconquered.

Four ancient ships sail from Galveston to New Orleans and finally into Pensacola as part of the first-ever Tall Ships Challenge Gulf Coast Series, a series of races and port festivals in the Gulf of Mexico.

Walk the decks of six massive, seafaring ships, including the tripled-masted Elissa, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Take a trip on one of these magnificent

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FISH TO FORK May 17–20

Six of the south’s best chefs battle on the water and on the grill for the right to boast the top toque at Fish to Fork, a weekend of outdoor pursuits and feasts hosted

by Omni Amelia Island Plantation and Resort.

Culinary masters like Waylon Rivers of Jacksonville’s Black Sheep and Joey Ward of Atlanta’s Gunshow duke it out to see who can turn the day’s catch

into the most talked about dish.

Adventurous foodies head out to sea with the chefs on Friday morning for an angling excursion in search of the evening’s main course: indigenous fish like flounder, snapper or black drum.

The signature dinner unfolds Saturday night under the stars with an elaborate spread of Florida-inspired fare, culminating in a vote for the guests’ favorite creation. omnihotels.com

UNWINED

PA N A M A C I T Y BEACH

March 23–24

Some of the Panhandle’s top tastemakers gather for a weekend of refined eats and entertainment.

The festival begins with the Biscuits & Jam kickoff party, promising comfort food like Southern-style lionfish bites from celebrity chef

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Play the film critic and brush shoulders with top movie industry professionals at exclusive screenings during the Tallahassee Film Festival, back for its 10th year with better movies, celebrity guests and more talent than ever.

Previous attendees include Barry Jenkins, director of the Oscar-winning film Moonlight, and Joe Swanburg, director of the indie-acclaimed Drinking Buddies. Enjoy premieres from rising filmmakers, Q&A sessions and fare from Tally food trucks.

Following Friday’s opening night presentation, mingle with fellow moviegoers and entertainment insiders at the after-party at Proof Brewing Co. tallahasseefilmfestival.com

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(C E N T RA L ) Matt Moore, a self-proclaimed “cast-iron enthusiast.” Then sway to a blend of ballads and up-tempo tunes by country crooner Cale Tyson. From there, grab a sunhat and roll into Saturday afternoon’s Grand Tasting to sample a prime selection of regional and international wines, spirits and aperitifs. Between bites, groove to pop-rock legends Los Colognes and the soulful St. Paul & The Broken Bones as they perform at Aaron Bessant Park’s palm tree–framed amphitheater. pcbeach.org

SPRING TRAINING S TAT E W I D E

T&C Pet Photography

February and March For baseball fans, springtime embodies the promise of a new season, as Major League Baseball’s Grapefruit League takes up temporary residence at training facilities throughout the Sunshine State. Get up close and personal with MLB veterans and newcomers alike, from the World Series– winning Houston Astros to Florida’s own Tampa Bay Rays and the team everyone either loves or hates: the New York Yankees.

The smaller regional stadiums provide a more intimate setting with unparalleled access to players as they engage in a month of practices and exhibition games.

Cheer for high-profile Florida natives like Tim Tebow, who will train for a position with the New York Mets in Port St. Lucie. floridagrapefruitleague.com

MELBOURNE AIR & SPACE SHOW MELBOURNE

March 24–25 Park a chair on the Orlando Melbourne International Airport lawn and take in the aeronautical acrobats at the Melbourne Air & Space Show. Hold your breath as the United States Special Operations Command “Para-Commandos” Parachute Team free-falls from the skies, demonstrating military techniques typically deployed during infiltration into enemy territory.

The patriotism is palpable as the U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds blaze across the sky in Sunday’s grand finale. Pop in your ear plugs while the four-jet squad of A-10 Thunderbolts race in perfect formation for a routine composed of more than 40 breakneck maneuvers. airandspaceshow.com

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ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROAD TR IP–WORTHY EVENTS (C E N T RA L ) WEEKI WACHEE SWAMP FEST SPRING HILL

March 2–4

WINTER PARK SIDEWALK ART FESTIVAL W I N T E R PA R K

March 16–18 Satisfy your creative side at one of the largest and most revered

Above: The Palm Beach International Boat Show features hundreds of yachts and megayachts. Below: Fresh lobster dinner at Marathon Seafood Festival Opposite: A conversation with actress and director Aisha Tyler at Sarasota Film Festival

juried outdoor art shows in the United States. Get lost in rows upon rows of paintings, sculptures and other creations, ranging from the decorative to the disturbing, by more than 200 artists from across the globe.

Explore an open-air gallery with the shops and restaurants of Winter Park’s charming cobblestone Park Avenue as the backdrop. Check out Lakeland ceramicist Beth Garcia’s brightly colored, carnivorous plant– inspired pottery, or painter Brian Murphy’s serene oil landscapes.

Peruse works ranging from mixed media to metalworking to watercolor and everything in between. wpsaf.org

THE BACARDI CUP INVITATIONAL REGATTA MIAMI

March 4–10 Every spring, hundreds of the world’s best small-boat sailors hit the waters of Miami’s Biscayne Bay for a week of

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racing and revelry. More than 100 Stars-class vessels (23foot racing keelboats for two people) vie for the prestigious Bacardi Cup. The invitational portion of the event brings about 40 J/70s (another class of small sailboats) on the water in an atmosphere that fuses cutthroat competition with unmatched skill and precision.

The Bacardi family began the regatta in Cuba with Stars boats in 1927, and it has become one of the most coveted prizes in sailing. After the finish, toast the evening with a signature Bacardi cocktail as the sun sets and the boats fill the harbor at the iconic Coral Reef Yacht Club. bacardiinvitational.com

MARATHON SEAFOOD FESTIVAL

Meander through the culinary fair and pile up your plate with freshly caught morsels of butter-soaked Florida lobster, sweet stone crab, deep-fried mahi-mahi and more. Then grab a cold beer and drift through the village of more than 150 vendors from hammock makers to fishing outfitters to Key Largo painter Jessica Hessing, who specializes in coastal scenes. Top off the weekend with this year’s special Hurricane Irma Relief Concert, featuring Billboard Music Award–winning Latin artist Tito Puente Jr., and dance the balmy, breezy night away. marathonseafoodfestival.com

PALM BEACH INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW W E S T PA L M B E A C H

M A R AT H O N , F L O R I D A K E Y S

March 22–25

Some of the best seafood in the world comes from the bluegreen waters of the Florida Keys.

Attention, boat lovers: Head to the docks for a weekend of nautical eye candy sprawled throughout Palm Beach’s

March 10–11

FOREST JOHNSON , MAR ATHON SEAFOOD FESTIVAL, SAR ASOTA FILM FESTIVAL

Amidst the canopied trails and rolling waterways of Linda Pedersen Park, Swamp Fest fuses the rustic history of old Florida with the whimsical spirit of traditional folklore, making for one awesomely unconventional event. Ramble among attendees dressed as kelp-clad swamp creatures, wander through stalls of locally made goods and sink your teeth into edible novelties like “gator on a stick”—all in one eclectic place. Pick up homemade jams or an intricately carved cypress knee sculpture from the more than 100 local artisans on-site. Then head to the food trucks for carnival-style snacks.

All the while, channel your best creature from the Black Lagoon, as the annual swamp monster costume contest is as cutthroat as they come. swampfestweekiwachee.com

luxurious harbor. Wind through the maze of more than $1.2 billion worth of boats, gadgets and accessories. Get up close with everything from Hell’s Bay skiffs to Rybovich sport fishers, Hinckley picnic boats and 200-foot megayachts. Get off the docks and on the water in boat handling classes taught by a U.S. Coast Guard–licensed captain or veer slightly off course to take in the shops and restaurants of nearby Worth Avenue. showmanagement.com

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SARASOTA FILM FESTIVAL S A R A S O TA

April 13–22 This 10-day celebration presents an exclusive opportunity for indie film fans to mingle with top and rising filmmakers, actors, and industry professionals alike.

Don your cocktail best and kick off the

ARRIVE AND DRIVE local rotax club cart racing series

CORPORATE & PRIVATE EVENTS week with the annual opening night film and party, hosted by the Sarasota Opera House. Mingle with a slew of Hollywood’s elite while walking down the red carpet.

Past guests have included A-listers such as Diane Lane, Stanley Tucci, Elisabeth Moss and Jason Momoa. Hobnob at the 20th anniversary celebration, and, between parties, head to the cinema for exclusive local film screenings, starstudded conversation series, and more. sarasotafilmfestival.com

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FLORIDIANA ALL THINGS VINTAGE B y N a n cy K l i n g en er

THE BUOY’S BACK

The origins of this iconic (albeit off the point) Key West landmark and its recent facelift its size, the sign was repeatedly stolen, so in the early 1980s the city put up a painted concrete buoy.

The buoy became a tourist attraction; now, in the selfie/Instagram age, it’s popularity has really taken off. It’s common to see lines of people waiting in subtropical heat to take photos with the marker. And some crazy things happen here. There was the time a row of sorority sisters dropped their pants and posed facing the marker at 3 a.m. (The girls became a local media sensation, thanks to the webcam that

Above: Danny Acosta, one of the original artists

who painted the buoy, puts finishing touches on the restored marker after Hurricane Irma.

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captured the moment.) And then there was the group of Cuban emigres who crossed the Florida Straits and tied up there in the middle of the night (when the “wet-foot, dry-foot” policy was still in effect).

The buoy has never been dislodged by a hurricane, but its paint job was damaged

by Hurricane Irma. Its restoration and repainting by Danny Acosta, the same artist who painted it in 1983, was an occasion of celebration and a sign of return to normality after the storm.

ROB O’NEAL /FLORIDA KE YS NEW BUREAU, ADOBE STOCK

K

ey West loves to identify itself as the southernmost everything. Naturally there’s a Southernmost Point Buoy (at least, a southernmost point that’s publicly accessible). If you look at a map you can see that the corner of Whitehead and South streets clearly isn’t the southernmost point on the island, but rather the southernmost point outside of a secured naval facility.

Since at least the 1950s, that site has been a tourist attraction, with a sign and a local family selling Conch shells. Despite

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