Fort De Soto Park
Shake up your next beach vacation in St. Pete/Clearwater.
Start with 35 miles of white sand and warm, emerald waters on America’s Best Beaches. Add eclectic neighborhoods and breathtaking natural areas like Fort De Soto Park. And then top it off with all the world-class art and dining you could ask for. Let’s shine—plan your perfect beach getaway at VisitStPeteClearwater.com
48
PINNACLE OF PALM BEACH
BY NILA DO SIMONFew places represent the apex of luxury and history like The Breakers in Palm Beach—that is unless you’re breathing the rarefied air at the top of the hotel known as Flagler Club, which recently underwent a refresh that made it even more fabulous. Check into the sixth floor with us.
58
MIRACLE UNDER THE OAKS BY
ERIC BARTONWhen a surprise bundle of fur tumbled into this Wauchula orangutan and chimpanzee sanctuary, founder Patti Ragan was reminded of a brighter tomorrow. Meet Cahaya, the youngest resident at the Center for Great Apes and the face of the movement to stop primate captivity.
68
CAN’T KEEP A GOOD TOWN DOWN
BY CARRIE HONAKERAfter the devastation Hurricane Michael brought to downtown Panama City in 2018, the tight-knit community refused to lose sight of its potential. Now, five years later, this underthe-radar destination is unrecognizable and unleashing a cultural awakening.
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AFLOAT:
Cruising on any boat is all about the journey— but especially if that vessel comes with cutting-edge nautical tech, a personal chef and Jet Skis. Shove off with Flamingo and explore three distinct boating itineraries to see which one is right for you.
This page: A historic photo of The Breakers, Henry Flagler’s iconic hotel, which recently turned 128 years old
Cover Photography by SONYA REVELL
On the cover: Model Isabella Gonzalez on the terrace of the fresh-faced Flagler Club at the top of The Breakers in Palm Beach
Clothing and jewelry: Dannijo
Hair and makeup: Jesus Bravo
16
WADING IN
19 /// THE SPREAD: A Tallahassee brewerdistiller’s latest ex-spirit-ments
23 /// MADE IN FLA: Two Jacksonville jewelry dynamos break into fashion
27 /// THE STUDIO: The pioneering legacy of a collective of Fort Pierce artists
31 /// MY FLORIDA: Author Anne Hull takes readers “Through the Groves”
35 /// DIVE BAR: The Sh-Booms define the sound of O-Town.
39 /// JUST HATCHED: Twelve new boutiques, bars and a bowling alley to add to your list of go-to spots
44 COLUMNS
44 /// CAPITAL DAME: Diane Roberts gives a history lesson on our state’s tolerance for rainbows, unveiling a messy trail of legislative policies that persist.
89 /// PANHANDLING: Prissy Elrod goes to Cassadaga, where she has a close encounter with the supernatural and picks up some premonitions of her own.
106 /// FLORIDA WILD: Why the Miccosukee Tribe wants to open the gates of the Everglades
ON THE FLY
95 /// GROVE STAND: A star Filipina chef trades New York City for Miami
100 /// DESIGN DISTRICT: A husband-andwife team redesign Winter Park from the inside out.
104 /// BIRD’S-EYE VIEW: A guide to Dunedin’s darling downtown
109 /// THE TIDE: Where to find the season’s best fetes, festivals and Formula 1
112 /// FLORIDIANA: Designer Kevin Gray’s art deco lamp makes a comeback.
On any given afternoon, the soothing sounds of jazz spilled out of the house and into the street at the end of Avenue C in Fort Pierce. A surreal coalition of Black and white artists, writers and musicians would eventually emerge from inside the home of A.E. “Bean” Backus. It was the 1950s and Jim Crow segregation divided the town at the railroad tracks. Still, this group communed over art regardless of race in one of the oldest communities on Florida’s East Coast.
Backus, a largely self-taught artist, converted his family’s former boat works into a bohemian home and studio where he welcomed people from all walks of life for friendly debates, spirited conversations, jam sessions and, of course, art.
Though he later received accolades such as “Florida’s painter laureate,” and “Dean of Florida’s landscape painters,” it was a conversation with Lincoln Park Academy art teacher Zanobia Jefferson that helped him satisfy the debt he owed to Reginald L. Goodwin, who financed his one summer of art classes in New York City. Uncle Reg, as he liked to be called, insisted Backus pay it forward rather than pay him back. In 1958, Backus took one of Jefferson’s students, Alfred Hair, under his wing, showed him how to stretch canvases and formally trained him in the art of landscape painting.
Word of the white painter in Fort Pierce who ignored segregation’s barriers spread, and in 1955, Harold Newton came knocking on Backus’s door. The young Black artist observed Backus’s work with a palette knife as he captured Florida through a native son’s eye. From Backus’s advice,
Newton left behind the portraits and religious scenes he had focused on and began painting landscapes like Hair.
Armed with a group of friends, Hair and Newton launched a group that would later be known as the Florida Highwaymen. The 26 AfricanAmerican artists painted fiery sunsets framed by swags of Spanish moss, churning storms crashing into windswept beaches and vibrant landscapes dotted with crimson poinciana trees on inexpensive Upson board in their garages at lightning-fast speed. They sold these paintings from the trunks of their cars while traveling up and down Florida’s Atlantic Coast to hotels, offices and individuals.
Zora Neale Hurston. Growing up in Eatonville, she flourished under the freedom African Americans had to govern themselves in her hometown. Hurston, like Backus, had a soft spot for the next generation, and the two became friends. As she worked on her last novel, “Herod the Great,” Hurston entrenched herself in the community, working part time as a reporter and part time as a high school English teacher.
She showed up at Backus’s house to listen to music but often told stories and encouraged neighborhood children to reach for their dreams. Surrounded by a world where Jim Crow lingered, the Ku Klux Klan marched and job opportunities for African Americans were sparse, this gathering of creatives offered an island of acceptance and a legacy of tolerance.
Inducted into the Florida Artists Hall of Fame, the 26 artists can trace their inception back to the mentorship and encouragement Backus gave to Hair, who then shared it with the rest of the group. The A.E. Backus Museum & Gallery in Fort Pierce is a living testament to his legacy. Housing the largest public collection of the painter’s work, it also exhibits and celebrates the art of the Florida Highwaymen.
In 1957, Fort Pierce gained another resident and frequent attendee at Backus’s studio gatherings:
Today, the spirit of honoring artists still fills the streets of Fort Pierce. In 2004, the Zora Neale Hurston Dust Tracks Heritage Trail was established. The driving trail takes you to eight locations including her home, her eponymous library, which houses a collection of writings and photos, as well as her gravesite, which remained unmarked until 1973. Alice Walker, author of “The Color Purple,” located Hurston’s gravesite and donated a gravestone engraved with the words “Zora Neale Hurston: A Genius of the South.” Visitors can also follow the trail virtually, but traveling to each site physically allows you to understand more deeply Hurston’s world.
Fort Pierce, like Backus and Hurston, welcomes everyone to its doorstep as it continues to honor artists and preserve their priceless cultural heritage. To learn more, go to visitstlucie.com
IIslands on our honeymoon, and the 36-foot monohull, Great Expectations, would be our home for the next two weeks. No captain, no crew, just the two of us. It might sound romantic, and it was, but at 27 years old I knew nothing about tying knots, hoisting sails, pulling sheets, dropping anchor, hooking up to a mooring ball or even operating the rubber dinghy tethered to the back of the boat. Thankfully Brian grew up sailing, and he taught me the basics during those first 14 days of our marriage as we island-hopped from Tortola to Jost Van Dyke through the Bitter End Yacht Club at Virgin Gorda and on to remote Anegada.
I still remember the first time a gust of wind filled the mainsail. All the dishes below deck crashed across the galley as the boat heeled over to one side. Brian was elated. “Now we’re cooking,” he shouted, trimming the sheets. I gripped the white fiberglass hull, alarmed at our angle over the water and wondered how the boat was going to stay upright as we sailed along at 6 knots. “Are you sure we’re not going to tip over?” I asked. Brian assured me that the vessel was designed to do this and explained about the massive keel underneath that kept the boat from capsizing. Many sailing trips later, I’ve learned to embrace that heeling feeling.
My maiden voyage aboard Great Expectations held so many experiences that made it magical: exploring new places by water, waking up and going whichever way the wind blew, changing our scenery every day and making friends with fellow sailors we’d meet at our mooring each night. The moments I loved most, however, were the hourslong crossings between islands sitting at the helm next to Brian, wind in our faces,
skin and water lapping against the boat’s hull as the world rolled slowly by. It’s a rare atmosphere of calm and connection that can only be created on a sailboat.
Over the last 18 years, we’ve sailed routes through the Bahamas, Caribbean and Windward Islands, dropping anchor at spots like Mustique, Saint Lucia and the Grenadines. Eventually, the student became the teacher when we began taking our daughters sailing, and I found myself explaining to them the physics of it all and assuring them that the boat wasn’t going to tip over. Our nautical adventures are some of my most treasured memories, and now they’re a source of inspiration for Flamingo. People often ask how we come up with story ideas, and one way is through personal experiences.
the Bahamas in our guide to some of the region’s best on-water experiences. Then, back on dry land, writer Nila Do Simon checks into the ultra-exclusive Flagler Club, perched at the top of The Breakers in Palm Beach, for an inside look at its recent refresh and the storied property’s rich history. Not all travel experiences are measured by their level of luxe, and our next feature takes us to a city rich with heart.
It’s no secret that Florida is a boater’s paradise but figuring out the best way to navigate and enjoy it can be overwhelming. In this Travel Issue of Flamingo, writer Kim Kavin shows us a range of charter styles, from sailing in the Keys to cruising on the Gulf Coast and yachting in luxury through
Writer Carrie Honaker challenges readers to forget what they think they know about her hometown of Panama City, which was torn apart by Hurricane Michael five years ago and is now back and better than ever. And finally, Eric Barton goes off grid in Central Florida to meet some of our state’s most awe-inspiring residents in a feature about a great ape sanctuary and a little-known miracle that took place there. Miracles and magic, after all, are what Florida is all about. But the stories that most define the Sunshine State don’t often come packaged the way readers expect. Flamingo’s mission is to showcase those unexpected and over-the-top tales. From sushi-making musicians to psychic encounters to an Old Florida art revival, the pages of this issue are packed with surprises from every corner of the state. So sail away with us this spring and see where the wind takes you. Your next great adventure may await just beyond the horizon.
Editor in Chief & Publisher
let us know what you think. Email me at jamie@flamingomag.com
LOU COLUMBUS picked up a camera and began his photography career after retiring from the U.S. Air Force in 2007. He found his passion in capturing portraits for the beautiful people of the Panhandle. Columbus’s photographs have appeared in a range of regional magazines, and he loves working with couples and highlighting local businesses. Originally from St. Petersburg, he currently calls Panama City home, along with his wife Freda and their two cats, Link and Z. Catch a glimpse of the reimagined historic Panama City through Columbus’s lens in our feature story on page 68
SONYA REVELL has lived and worked in South Florida for 15 years. She is a regular contributor to numerous magazines and has collaborated with commercial clients such as American Airlines, L’Oréal Paris, Celebrity Cruises, General Motors and Wells Fargo. While Revell still fantasizes about running off to join the circus or perhaps becoming a race car driver, the truth is, nothing tops photography. Revell captures the beauty of The Breakers’s Flagler Club in Palm Beach on Flamingo’s cover, as well as in our feature story, Pinnacle of Palm Beach, on page 48 and in page 23
NILA DO SIMON is an awardwinning journalist and editor whose work has appeared in Condé Nast Traveler, Garden & Gun and The New York Times to name a few. Simon has written for Flamingo since 2017, with profiles on tennis star Sloane Stephens, the unique South Florida community of Stiltsville and the state’s best wellness resorts. In the latest issue of Flamingo, Simon takes readers on a getaway to The Flagler Club, an exclusive boutique hotel at the top of The Breakers, Henry Flagler’s iconic South Florida staple. In our feature Pinnacle of Palm Beach on page 48, Simon shares plenty of history with a hefty dose of luxury.
KIM KAVIN has been writing about boats since 2000, when she was executive editor at Yachting. Her marine journalism has won dozens of national awards, including the Folio: Eddie. She served three terms as president of the professional organization Boating Writers International and regularly contributes to many of America’s leading marine magazines. When Kavin’s not writing about watercraft, she can be found walking trails with her rescue dogs or curled up reading a book for her library’s nonfiction book club. Kavin lends her extensive nautical knowledge to Flamingo in our feature story, Afloat: A Guide to Florida’s Best On-Water Experiences for Beginners + Experts Alike, on page 78
WILL BROWN is a native Floridian and fixture on Jacksonville’s journalism scene in his role as a Report for America Corps Member covering race, poverty and inequality for WJCT Public Media’s Jacksonville Today. Before joining WJCT, Brown worked for many years covering sports across Northeast Florida. He holds journalism degrees from Florida A&M University and the University of South Florida, and his work has appeared in newspapers and digital publications in Florida and Texas since 2007. In this latest issue of Flamingo, Brown chronicles the history of the Florida Highwaymen, roadside artists from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s with a long-standing legacy, in our Studio department on page 27
I can always count on Capital Dame. Roberts’s recent column on FL’s shameful book banning sparked a healthy dialogue in our house.
—Gina Colley HolgateJacksonville, that’s our home! We love this (A.B. Newton map) print so much and have it in our office!
—@fancysociety19
It’s awesome to see Carlton Ward promoting the significance of Ocala National Forest and the Florida scrub jay.
—@nick_conzone_photography
How he forgot to mention The Allman Brothers Band I don’t know, but The Allman Brothers Band started it all with Southern music and in Jacksonville as well. —Edward Shavelson
Just had a visit to Fort Clinch State Park, it is a magical place.
—@barbara.umbel.jewelry
Thank you for sharing Protect Our Paradise and for helping us save wild Florida!
—@conservationflorida
Just celebrated 25 years being Amelia Islanders! It’s a magical place for sure, but it’s truly the people in the community that make it so incredibly special!
—@newbeginningsrealtors
I remember Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey when it came to my hometown in Northern Wisconsin. In those days the circus was in a tent. My dad worked for the newspaper and took me to an afternoon performance. It had rained and the field was full of muck. I remember wearing a pink dress and red rain boots. We walked down a muddy lane beside the tent and came upon a long line of elephants waiting to go on. I was a tiny thing, and I stopped still at the sight of the towering legs, head and trunk above me. The mud splashed up my boots and onto the back of my pink dress. I took a step forward and walked right out of those boots. I still remember the smells, the cold, wet mud on my once-white socks and the feel of a moist trunk checking out this crazy pink mess so tiny beside him. I don’t remember anything else about my first visit to the circus, but I do remember that inquiring nose woofing over my head and face. It was glorious!
—Tickled pink
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Editor in Chief and Founder
JAMIE RICH jamie@flamingomag.com
Assistant Editor
Emilee Perdue emilee@flamingomag.com
Creative Director
Holly Keeperman art@flamingomag.com
Contributing Designer
Ellen Swandiak edit@flamingomag.com
Art Production Manager
Kerri Rak
Senior Writer and Contributing Editor
Eric Barton eric@flamingomag.com
Contributing Writers
Ben Arthur, Will Brown, Steve Dollar, Prissy Elrod, Carrie Honaker, Anne Hull, Kim Kavin, Diane Roberts, Maddy Zollo Rusbosin, Nila Do Simon, Carlton Ward Jr.
Contributing Photographers & Illustrators
Leslie Chalfont, Louis Columbus, Beth Gilbert, Stephen Lomazzo, Jules Ozaeta, Kristen Penoyer, Sonya Revell, Dean Sadler, Carlton Ward Jr.
Copy Editors & Fact-Checkers
Patty Carroll, Amanda Price
Editorial Intern
Sydney Boyd
Publisher JAMIE RICH jamie@flamingomag.com
Advertising Sales Director Janis Kern janis@flamingomag.com
Advertising Sales
Megan Zebouni megan@flamingomag.com
Sales & Marketing Assistant
Kayla Byrd kayla@flamingomag.com
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There’s a time and place for peace and relaxation –– and you’ll always find it in St. Augustine | Ponte Vedra. Whether you’re lounging poolside at one of our historic hotels or kicking your sand-covered feet up on a pristine, remote beach –– you’ll feel it. That magic moment when time stands still. Visit FloridasHistoricCoast.com to learn more.
“One of Florida’s Top 10 Food & Wine Festivals,” according to USA Today, May 8-12, 2024, with local and celebrity guest chefs and all-inclusive food and drink tickets. Enjoy great cuisine, hundreds of wines, beers and spirits, live music, cooking demos and more.
1 World Golf Place, St. Augustine, FL • www.staugustinefoodandwinefestival.com • 904.385.9121
Breathtaking Views | Climb to the Top | Nature Trails | Maritime Discoveries | Shipwrecks | Heritage Boatworks | WWII Museum | Kids Play Area | 1940’s Café | Ghost Tours. To receive 15% off general admission, use online code in advance: FLAMINGO15
100 Red Cox Drive • 904-829-0745 • www.staugustinelighthouse.org
Whiskey, Wine & Wildlife takes place November 7-10, 2024, oceanside in Vilano Beach, St. Augustine, Florida. Tickets are ALL-INCLUSIVE with unlimited beverage and culinary tastings from some of Florida’s best restaurants. Experience “St. Augustine’s Best Block Party!”
Vilano Beach, St. Augustine • 904-385-9121 • www.whiskeywineandwildlife.com
quintessential Key West
a collection of three historic homes, located just one block from Duval Street. Originally built in 1884, the hotel was formerly a rooming house, corner grocery store and haberdashery before becoming the upscale hotel that stands today. While preserving its classic Key West character, the Marquesa Hotel boasts modern amenities such as lush interior gardens, spa access and three pools. Rent a conch cruiser and bike around Old Town for a day of exploration, then make a reservation at the award-winning restaurant, Café Marquesa, on the first floor of the hotel for a night of culinary delights. marquesa.com
2 ounces Ketel One Vodka
1 ounce espresso
1 ounce chai syrup
5 ounces coconut cream
2 dashes orange bitters
1 cinnamon stick for garnish
PREPARATION: Combine ingredients and ice in shaker. Strain into glass, and garnish with cinnamon zest. Read more on page 39
PALM TREE DESTINATIONS West Palm Beachbased travel writer Skye Sherman plans the ultimate paradisiacal jaunts to both well-known and undiscovered destinations in her debut book, “Palm Tree Destinations.” Beautify your space with this handsome hardback, featuring the uncrowded white-sand beaches of Zanzibar, lush jungles in Madagascar and electric green cliffsides of Thailand in 200 pages of this coffee-table read.
WORD OF SOUTH Celebrate the power of words where music and literature merge at Tallahassee’s Word of South, April 26-28. Commemorate nearly 10 years of this storytelling festival with Grammy award-winning headliner and psychedelic rock band The Flaming Lips, accompanied by a diverse range of artists and authors across eight stages. Attend intimate outdoor concerts by bluegrass bands and indie Southern stars (like The Currys pictured left), ask questions in panel discussions with Florida novelists and cookbook authors or shop for a new read from local bookstore booths. Set up camp on the grass knoll at the Flamingo stage and catch performances by musicians like The Sh-Booms (page 35) or riveting talks by author and Pulitzer Prize winner Anne Hull (page 31). wordofsouthfestival.com
With endless miles of sandy beaches, hiking, biking trails, and pristine waterways to explore, followed by fabulous dining and art galleries to indulge in, just steps away from wonderful places to stay, unforgettable relaxing moments seem to go on forever. Find your fun @ VisitNSBFL.com
— Floridians, fare, finds —
Tallahassee friends go from biologists to brewologists.
Sisterhood of the statement necklaces and silk dresses
the studio
A proper home for the works of the Florida Highwaymen
My Florida
An author takes a wild ride through the citrus groves.
Dive Bar
From Motown to O-Town funk with The Sh-Booms
Just Hatched
The scoop on spaghetti ice cream and lobster donuts
Adecorated knight raises his lance, wearing a menacing look under his panache and iron helmet. Across from him, a gallant musketeer tilts back his plumed cavalier hat and brandishes his weapon. The adversaries stare one another down, violent tension building as they rear their mighty steeds—their bright blue and neon pink mighty steeds—that bear an uncanny resemblance to My Little Ponies from the 1980s. They are squared off on either side of the Lamb of God, which is sacrificially bleeding into small, medium and large Big Gulp cups from 7-Eleven. Central Florida-based artist Gary Bolding’s triptych, “Big Gulp Altarpiece,” doesn’t look like most altarpieces, but it does capture the satire—and alarming truth—of modern society’s biggest religion: consumerism.
“Transformations: Spirituality, Ritual, and Society” at the Rollins Museum of Art takes gallerygoers through the relationship of art and religion, one of the unique constants in the history of humanity. Taking pieces from the 21st century and comparing them to historic works of art dating back to the 14th century, the RMA creates a beautiful and compelling visual story of artists from different time periods who have expressed spirituality through their work. Walk through four thematic sections of the exhibition: rituals, worship, anthropomorphism, popular culture and politics to gain a new sense of enlightenment and a stronger connection to the world.
The exhibition isn’t all golden Mickeys and braided neon nylon fibers. Tobi Kahn, a sculptor based in New York City, created a wooden box that appears as if it was woven from shiny red fabric. Titled “Patuach Sagur Patuach,” it represents the traditional Jewish New Year celebration of Rosh Hashanah, where people cast their sins away into a flowing body of water. Kahn’s creation is both stunning and functional—as its sapphire center represents the open water to accept the previous year’s shortcomings, allowing those
Top: Gary Bolding (American, b. 1952)
Big Gulp Altarpiece - Triptych, 2003
Oil on panel. Museum purchased from the Cornell Anniversary Acquisitions Fund, 2003.9 © Gary Bolding
Left: Camille Henrot (French, b. 1978)
The Man Who Understands Animal Speech
without access to rivers or oceans to practice this religious ritual. Camille Henrot’s bronze and marble sculpture, “The Man Who Understands Animal Speech Will Be Pope,” was inspired by Pope Francis’s 2015 visit to the United States, which spurred a flurry of canine pope memes. Photos of dogs dressed as the highly esteemed Catholic official covered the internet, creating a domino effect and eventually influencing Henrot’s iconography. Playing off the lighthearted fun, Henrot creates a discourse about the peace animals carry, their historical symbolism in world religions and the divide that separates creatures and humans. “The element of humor really helps us think about the works in a different way,” says Ena Heller, Ph.D., the museum’s director. “Humor is a good door opener. It makes the (art) more accessible.” The exhibition incorporates the old with the new, presenting contemporary along with prized pieces from historical eras, such as Hendrick van Steenwijck’s 17th-century Flemish “Interior of a Cathedral.” The oil painting depicts a detailed scene of a Gothic church, with courtiers, priests and images of Jesus Christ. Though Bolding’s triptych features Andy Warhol’s Madonna instead of the Virgin Mary, the invisible thread of spiritual importance bleeds through every work.
Will Be Pope, 2016. Bronze, Marmo Giallo Siena marble, and Egyptian Yellow marble.
The Alfond Collection of Contemporary Art, Rollins Museum of Art. Gift of Barbara ’68 and Theodore ’68 Alfond. 2016.3.8
Image courtesy of the artist and Metro Pictures, New York.
Below: Tobi Kahn (American, b. 1952)
Patuach Sagur Patuach, 2012
Acrylic on wood. A Gift from the Acorn Foundation, funded by Barbara and Theodore Alfond, in honor of Bruce A. Beal Director Ena Heller. 2015.8.1 © Tobi Kahn
“The tight connection between belief and art is not relegated to just one historic period or one place in the world,” says Heller. “It continues to be important in artistic expression, even if today it looks very different than it did 500 years ago.”
“Transformations: Spirituality, Ritual, and Society” will be open until May 12, 2024, at the Rollins Museum of Art. rollins.edu/rma.
Whether it’s hiking a trail, biking a path, or checking out our famous Wings of the West trail, it’s time to Spring breakaway to West Volusia. Right now, our Cool Craft Beverage Trail is in full swing. Explore unique downtowns as you enjoy artisan coffees and smoothies to award-winning local craft beers, wines and mead. It’s time to let the “spirits” move you to West Volusia.
Tallahassee’s Ology harnesses the art of taste, smell and brewing to pour passion and precision into every glass.
The Ology Bicentennial
MAKES ONE COCKTAIL
1 1/4 ounces Ology royal lavender gin
1/4 ounce lemon juice
1/4 ounce simple syrup
Splash Champagne Lavender garnish (optional)
PREPARATION: Add gin, lemon juice and simple syrup to a shaker with ice. Shake well and strain into a glass. Top off with Champagne and garnish with a sprig of lavender, if using.
Nick Walker was raised in a laboratory. His father was a psychobiologist who studied the sense of smell, and his grandfather was a physiologist who studied the sense of taste (and was appointed as the Science Coordinator at the Seattle World’s Fair in 1961). Both left Walker a big white coat to fill and a scientific legacy to uphold. Once he graduated from Florida State University with a bachelor’s degree in biology, he tried it on. But it never seemed to fit quite right.
Instead of a lab, Walker’s mind whirred inside a fermentation room, surrounded by stainless steel tanks and endless combinations of hops, yeast and barley to craft the perfect beer—and a constant need to make it better.
After years of home beer brewing, Walker and two friends decided to open Ology Brewing Co., an experimental brewery, in Tallahassee in 2017. Ology, meaning a subject of study, combines the traditional
techniques. By leaning on the Walker family foundation, they create ales, stouts, lagers and IPAs—you name it, they brew it—that visually, tastefully and olfactorily satisfy the senses. Ology brings the scientific method to each pint, questioning how minute changes in the process can create a new beverage.
“This is where my love is. We try to get
and in our processes,” Walker explained. In their taprooms, located in Tallahassee and now Tampa, Walker aims to release at least one new beer each week, playing with different flavors, changes in temperature and strains of hops. In one year alone, they produced 105 different beers, not counting fan-favorite repeats, each with its own cartoon label created by Stephen Leacock. Ology's flagship beers include Sensory Overload, a 6.5% IPA made with Citra dry hops, and Rainbow Colored Glasses, a melted sherbet-inspired Berliner with raspberry, blood orange and lime flavors.
Then, in January 2020, three years after brewing their first beer, Ology’s creations spilled over into the world of spirits with
the launch of their vodka— an effort that was cut short by the COVID-19 pandemic. To serve the state of Florida and keep their business afloat, they quickly found a new purpose in manufacturing hand sanitizer, taking a slight detour from their original plan.
When July rolled around, Walker poured his efforts into relaunching the distillery, beginning with small batches of vodka, and eventually adding gin, bourbon, rye whiskey, rum and a celebratory birthday cake creme liqueur. A community favorite is the Ology Distilling Co. small batch white rum, first released in 2021, with single-origin Guatemalan molasses and notes of overripe pineapple, passionfruit and tobacco, giving it a funky tropical finish.
Tallahassee turns 200 this year, and as a born-and-bred capital city brewery, Ology is celebrating the milestone by launching the Ology Bicentennial cocktail using their locally sourced spirit, the royal lavender gin. Toast to the big 2-0-0 by ordering a sparkling violet glass at any of their Tallahassee locations, served with a splash of Champagne or sparkling wine and a sprig of lavender. For a more classic cocktail, the brewer recommends an Ology old fashioned. Made with their small batch bourbon, in which each batch of whiskey takes on slightly different notes, it creates an unexpected flavor profile with every sip.
When not distilling bourbon, pulling taps and crafting brews, the team at Ology always has a new project waiting in a barrel—or brewing in Walker’s brain. His current
Walker puts it. “It’s 100% barley, which is mostly what beer is made of. And then we ferment it like a beer for five, eight, 10 years? We’ll find out,” he said, his eyes alight. You can find Ology’s beers and spirits at one of their three Tallahassee locations, at the brewery in Tampa or on shelves throughout the state.
Walker may have swapped his family’s white coat and laboratory for a T-shirt and a still, but the legacy lives on. He’s constantly asking questions, coming up with new ideas and always studying the science of alcohol. “Every time we touch that beer, we can impact the end result,” Walker said. “That’s kind of the fun part. It’s kind of magical.”
PREPARATION:
Ology small batch bourbon, simple syrup and Angostura bitters to a glass. Add ice to chill, mix, then strain over a large rock in a rocks glass. Express an orange peel over the glass, then garnish with the peel.
Wthey were a little more creative with their father’s medical tools: they used his forceps and other items to make jewelry.
“My sister did the wire work because when you’d put beads on the wire to make earrings, you had to wrap it very tight and finely,” Jodie recalls of how she and Danielle, her younger sister of three years, first got into jewelry making. “We were self-taught, and it was something the two of us loved doing together. It was a creative outlet.”
Born and raised in Jacksonville, the girls always had a penchant for fashion, thanks to their mother’s cool vintage jewelry collection and frequent visits to see family in New York City. “I was mesmerized by the fashion industry and knew it was something I wanted to do in the future,” says Jodie. In high school, she began working at local boutiques, and while she was at one in Ponte Vedra, she and Danielle began making jewelry to complement the clothing.
“At the time, fashion jewelry wasn’t that popular, and stores didn’t carry it that much,” she explains, but her boss let them sell their styles alongside the other merchandise. The duo continued designing when Jodie attended the University of Florida, where she’d even set up jewelry pop-ups in her
sorority house. Due to the excitement around the pieces, she and Danielle initially founded Dannijo in 2003 and then opened their standalone shop in Jacksonville.
Danielle went on to attend Vanderbilt, and their brick-and-mortar enterprise continued to thrive until they closed its doors when Jodie graduated and then subsequently moved to New York City, working in sales for fashion companies like Sam Edelman. Danielle eventually followed her to the Big Apple, also working in the style realm, but when the 2008 recession hit, both sisters lost their jobs. “We decided we wanted to restart Dannijo again, so we began making jewelry out of our apartment in the East Village,” explains Jodie.
there: a month later, Beyoncé bought one of their necklaces. The statement design was called Ruth Celia and was the opposite of dainty, with layers and layers of gold chains, and it didn’t hurt that she wore it everywhere, including on tour with Jay-Z in New York.
From day one, they had a website—even before the advent of social media—a move that was relatively unheard of at the time. As the brand continued to get press, including a segment on the “Today” show, their name recognition snowballed. It didn’t hurt either that their pieces kept getting scooped up by celebrities and were a favorite among the wave of rising style bloggers who were reinventing how people shopped. Dannijo also built buzz with fun partnerships, including a capsule collection with actress Rashida Jones and a collab with Man Repeller.
While the sisters continued designing together, Jodie organically fell into handling the business side of the brand, now serving as CEO, whereas Danielle became the creative director and is known for making their big ideas and concepts come to fruition.
Realizing they needed sales, they coldcalled Bergdorf Goodman, and with a little serendipity, landed a meeting with an assistant buyer. While she loved the collection, she told the sisters it was a bit too edgy and suggested a few changes. Within days they presented new pieces, leading Dannijo to be picked up on consignment. And their luck didn’t stop
“The brand has evolved with us and is so much our personal story of what we want, what we love and what we are inspired by,” says Jodie. When the company first started, its focus was statement jewelry, but over time, it’s grown to include clothes, other accessories and even bridal dresses and jewelry. The foray into apparel came organically when they realized customers wanted to see how to style their pieces—so Dannijo began to sell silk slip dresses to serve as the canvas for the jewelry. Now, they are a cornerstone of the business, coming in a variety of colors, prints, appliques and cuts.
“It’s about having the right pieces that are more timeless.” However, they still know how to have fun, too. Be on the lookout for their new venture inspired by their love of sports— where fashion meets fandom—later this year.
Their designs and styles have shifted over time to reflect Jodie’s and Danielle’s life experiences. In its formative years, Dannijo’s essence exuded the excitement of being young
“I feel like we got into fashion because you kind of create the world you want to live in,” she adds, which is a fitting reminder to all Floridians to have fun with fashion and that it’s OK to exude a little extra pop of sunshine.
We were self-taught, and it was something the two of us loved doing together. It was a creative outlet.
Remembering the legacy of THE FLORIDA HIGHWAYMEN, their place in the art world and preserving the landscapes of Old Florida.
Doretha Hair Truesdell knows she has more days behind her than ahead of her. But before she leaves this Earth, she will see the Florida Highwaymen recognized in a standalone museum.
The South Carolina native has spent the last half-century spreading the gospel of the Florida Highwaymen—a collection of Black artists whose oil-based landscapes, seascapes and paintings of Old Florida were sold alongside Florida’s East coast highways in the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s.
“I wanted to finish yesterday,” says Truesdell, who is retired and in her 80s, of the museum. “Time is not on our side—at all. People say, ‘You need to take time for yourself.’ There is no
time. It’s now.”
Truesdell is not conjuring a physical memorial alone.
The City of Fort Pierce and the Florida Department of State, through
their African-American Cultural and Historical Grant program, have helped fund the renovation of the Jackie L. Canyon Sr. Building in the city’s Lincoln Park neighborhood, which will transform it into a museum celebrating all 26 Highwaymen and is slated to open later this year. The museum’s location is a short walk from the home Truesdell and her husband Alfred Hair, a founding member of the Highwaymen, shared before his death in 1970.
Hair was influenced by Fort Pierce-based landscape artist A.E. Backus, whom he met as a teenager in 1958. Backus was a well-known artist who illuminated Florida fauna and waterways with vibrant colors and thick oil for nearly 30 years when he
met and tutored Hair.
Hair emulated Backus’s landscapes and then imparted the knowledge on other artists across the state. Outside of Hair and Harold Newton, another Fort Pierce-based artist whom he advised, Backus did not have a direct relationship with the Highwaymen artists.
scenes and a lot of inland scenes. He loved water. He loved going to the beach. Naturally, it was segregated. Our beach was Frederick Douglass Park. Alfred painted a lot of those scenes from the water.”
Reagan is one of six Highwaymen still living. His daughter, Joy Gaillard, says it is vital that the legacy of the Highwaymen survives. Once the museum opens, it will expose a new generation to the vibrance and the artistry of the 26 influential painters who chronicled a uniquely Florida style.
While Hair was alive, the group of artists weren’t known by a clever moniker, only by their reputation for selling fine art paintings of natural Florida out of the trunks of their cars. The young men sold their works in volume to make a living. Today, these coveted paintings sell for thousands of dollars at auction and in galleries in Vero Beach.
Truesdell recalls Hair sold his art from the back of a Cadillac Fleetwood.
“I think future generations will paint what they see. I know Alfred painted a lot of what he saw,” Truesdell says of her late husband, who died in a bar fight at the age of 29. “He has a lot of ocean
Most of the palmettos and poincianas that the Highwaymen are known for painting have been plucked from paradise and paved over by development. The springs and saltwater marshes that inspired men like Hair and Willie C. Reagan are part of an Old Florida that no longer exists and a legacy of Black artists who captured a rare moment in time.
And in the two decades since the Highwaymen were inducted into the Florida Artists Hall of Fame, these men—along with Mary Ann Carroll, the only female artist in the group—are rapidly becoming ancestors.
“They don’t understand that it was here,” Gaillard says of the natural habitats that inspired the artists’ work. “That’s part of that history of showing them and opening up their eyes to what (Florida) used to look like.”
The surviving Highwaymen are all approaching their sunset. Reagan continues to paint, but not every does.
“It’s very, very important to make sure their legacy stays alive,” says Gaillard, whose father sold his art out of the back of a Volvo station wagon. “To make sure people understand what they stood for, the value of it, understand their hard work, their creativity. That’s the thing that’s important to ensure their legacy stays alive.”
Adirt road took us there. When we reached the grove, the Ford hesitated, as if sizing up the chances of a square metal machine penetrating the round world of oranges.
“Hold on, sister,” my father said, shifting gear.
His CB radio antenna whipped in the air like a 9-foot machete. It caught in the tree branches and bent backward, then THWACK. Leaves and busted twigs rained down on us inside the car. Pesticide dust exploded off the trees. And oranges—big heavy oranges— dropped through the windows like bombs.
“Look out for Bouncing Betties!” Dad yelled when one hit the front seat.
Slats of raw sunlight bore down through the shade of the trees as the dirty beige Ford moved through the flickering movie. My father studied each tree we rolled past, glaring at it with suspicion, looking for all the ways it might be trying to trick him.
“The variables out to defeat a man are many,” my father said, exhaling smoke. “Bugs, drought, freezes, aphids, red mites, canker, labor problems.”
Sweat trickled down the side of his face as he brooded. He was 6 feet and lanky, loose-limbed, with one hand draped over the steering wheel and perspiration coming through his white Oxford shirt.
It was the summer of 1967 and he had just started his new job as a fruit buyer for HP Hood, the juice processor. He was supposed to make sure Hood got the best quality oranges and grapefruit for juice production. After he bought the citrus from growers, he had to keep the trees healthy until the fruit was ready to be picked, and then he had to ensure that the truckloads of citrus arrived at Hood’s juice house on time.
“Stay in the car,” he said, stalking off with his magnifying glass. I kept an eye on him as I unwrapped the bacon sandwich my mother made for me. He held his magnifying glass over some leaves, Sherlock Holmes–style.
My mother had given me lots of instruction. Don’t talk too much. Don’t pester the man with questions. Drink plenty of water. Speak up if I need to use the bathroom.
“How old are you, anyway?” I asked. I had just turned 6.
“Your old daddy is 28,” he said. His attention was out his window, on the Valencia orange trees.
Valencias were juicers and soon to be in cartons in grocery stores if the variables didn’t defeat Hood’s new man in the field. We crept along at 3 mph. All of a sudden, he hit the brakes.
A bathroom! Of all the misinformed advice. So far that day, the closest I saw to a bathroom was a tar paper shack next to an irrigation ditch. When I had to go, Dad reached under his seat for a roll of toilet paper. “Take this,” he said. Two rows over, I squatted in the sand, holding a stick for snake protection.
“Best not to shatter all your mama’s illusions by telling her every detail,” Dad said when I got back in the car.
I’d noticed the box of test tubes rattling on his back seat. I asked him why he needed test tubes with stoppers. He said Hood required him to test juice samples for sugars and acids.
I could see the test tubes were unused. None of the seals were broken. That didn’t seem right. “Are you going to get in trouble for not testing the juice?” I asked.
He said he preferred what he called the oldfashioned taste test. I would watch him do it a hundred times that summer.
He stood by a tree with his pocket knife,
cut a hole into the orange and sucked the juice out. He held it in his mouth for a few seconds, calculating the juice into yields, pallets and truckloads, then spat into the dirt. He had his answers.
MY FATHER’S territory was the citrus-growing region of Central Florida known as the Ridge. It ran a hundred miles from north to south, from up around Clermont straight down to Lake Placid. It wasn’t a large area, but in the 1960s the Ridge had the heaviest concentration of citrus groves in the world. One botanical grid after another, dark green regiments of trees marching up and down the middle of the state. We lived at the bottom of the Ridge in a town called Sebring.
In spring, when the orange blossoms opened, it was like God had knocked over a bottle of Ladies of Gardenia. The smell was so strong it burned into my hair and clothes, and the dog’s fur. The blossoms heaved and sighed for three weeks straight, and just as they started to fade, the cooking houses started processing fruit for juice. For 10 hours a day, the cook houses pumped caramelized smoke into the air that smelled of spun brown sugar.
Once, we’d gone to Jacksonville, three hours north of the Ridge, a paper mill town on the St. Johns River. When that rotten-egg breeze came rolling off the river, it left me gasping in the back seat, dazed by the realization that the world could stink. I was glad we weren’t in paper. I was glad we were in oranges.
IF THE history of Central Florida were charted out on a graph, it would start with primordial sludge and then curve toward the Paleo-Indians, the Calusa Indians, the
Tocobaga Indians, Ponce de León, runaway slaves, snuff-dipping white settlers, the U.S. Army, Osceola, the great Seminole warrior, malaria, cattle, citrus and a dull heat that left it undesirable for much besides oranges until the early 1960s, when Walt Disney took a plane ride over the vast emptiness, looked down, and said, “There.”
The interior of Central Florida was so desolate that my father kept a gallon of water and a box of Saltines in his car.
He said you could eat all the oranges you wanted, but good luck if you needed a flush toilet or a pay phone. He also said it was no place for a child, though Disney was betting otherwise.
Florida’s other citrus-growing region was much smaller, east of the Ridge, along the coast, and it was called Indian River.
The Indian River people did a better job marketing their fruit, rhapsodizing about tidal Indian
My father studied each tree we rolled past, glaring at it with suspicion, looking for all the ways it might be trying to trick him.
breezes that rang like poetry in the Yankee ear. Their fruit was prettier to look at because each piece of fruit was buffed out to the shine of a Cadillac. On the Ridge, we
didn’t mind if an orange left your hands dirty as long as juice dripped down your chin. Plus, we had more groves, wall-to-wall.
The competition was from California, though it was hardly a contest. The unremitting heat and humidity on the Ridge made our citrus exceptional juice bombs.
What had started to pose a threat was a variety coming out of California called the seedless clementine. It was a no-fuss version of the Florida tangerine, which was loaded with seeds. Dad said it might ruin us for good.
Excerpted from “Through the Groves: A Memoir” by Anne Hull. Published by Henry Holt and Company. Copyright © 2023
On the tip of a barrier island in Northeast Florida, Omni Amelia Island Resort welcomes guests to a serene location overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. With endless recreational options, cuisine to please every palate, shops and a full-service spa, you’ll never want to leave this island paradise. Make the most of your stay with a special offer or package.
How this Orlando group evolved from Motown muse to
Driven by rhythm, funky horns and the powerhouse vocals of frontwoman Brenda Radney, Orlando’s The Sh-Booms brings hurricane force to its repertoire of original garage-soul tunes. Although tracks like “Drop ‘em Dead” and “Detox to Retox,” from their 2019 album “The Blurred Odyssey” punch up perfectly on an imaginary jukebox alongside kindred rockers like The Black Keys, Amy Winehouse and Sharon Jones & the Dap-Kings, Radney and founder Al Ruiz have worked hard to dial in a distinct identity for the group. “The point of joining or starting a band,” said Ruiz, “is you want to eventually carve your own lane.” The two performers hopped on a Zoom session with Flamingo recently to talk about the band’s exciting evolution
HOW DID YOU LAND ON THE BAND’S NAME?
Al Ruiz: It’s really dumb. There’s just a funny scene in (the HBO hit television series) “Eastbound & Down.” At the time, we were doing Motown, and it made sense. You can look at a band name and immediately know what style of music it is. I don’t know if that’s true anymore for what we’re doing.
WHAT MUSIC FIRST MADE AN IMPACT ON YOU?
AR: The band was kind of an homage to my parents. My mom used to dance on “Connecticut Bandstand,” and then she would go to record hops every day after school. It was always soul music … Motown records and
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a lot of Latin music, too. Hispanics like that rhythm. Rhythmic stuff has been instilled in me since I was a child. That’s why I play bass.
Brenda Radney: I always joke and say that music is my first language and English is my second. When I was much younger, I had a speech impediment. And so in order to communicate, I would hum all the time and sing all the time. My dad was a musician and really encouraged me to know how to play piano. And from there I was just in. I wanted to know how to play everything, so I just started playing all the time. I didn’t grow up on soul music. My father was the biggest Police fan, and he loved Sting. He loved gospel music, too. So that’s also where you can probably hear the soul influences, because I grew up in a Baptist church. But my dad was into Genesis and U2. You would never know that his CD changer is full of a ton of Caucasian artists. One of my favorite songs was “I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For” by U2. I was really into Peter Gabriel.
BRENDA, BEFORE YOU JOINED THE GROUP, YOU HAD A SOLO DEAL WITH JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE’S LABEL. WHAT WAS THAT TRANSITION LIKE?
BR: My biggest thing is that I always wanted a band. When I was signed to Justin, I was crying about how I was not the kind of artist that does the choreography. I’m not a Britney. It’s just not my jam. Because I’m a musician myself, naturally I’d want a band.
THE BAND HAS BEEN TOGETHER, IN ONE FORM OR ANOTHER, FOR MORE THAN A DECADE. HOW HAVE YOUR FLORIDA ROOTS SHAPED THINGS?
AR: I’m just going to say something stupid. I feel like we’re a big group of “Florida Men,” right?
BR: I was thinking it. When I first joined the band, I was a little crazier than I am now because I’m a mom.
AR: We were just wild, you know? You’re traveling with pretty much some of your best friends, and you’re playing bars and clubs. You get kind of … involved. I remember we came back from tour and my buddy told me, “Man, it’s 5 p.m. My body’s telling me I need a sound check and a Miller Lite.” That wraps up into our passion for the music we write—it’s supposed to get your heart pumping.
WHAT’S HAPPENING WITH THE BAND RIGHT NOW?
BR: We have music that we’re looking to drop. I’m not going to say it’s a departure from what our last records were, but it’s definitely an evolution sonically. We had another changeup of (band) players, so they all bring something different to the table. I always joke when we’re rehearsing, I’m like, “Now we sound like a real band.” But seriously, there’s just something there now that was missing before. I think we’re all doing our own thing this time.
AL, WHEN YOU’RE NOT PLAYING MUSIC, YOU’RE A SUSHI CHEF. WHEN DID THAT START?
AR: I’ve been making sushi since I was in my early 20s. When Brenda and I met, I owned a food truck. I morphed from a kid that worked for somebody who found a way to work for himself to now having a restaurant. It’s called Sushi & Seoul, like Seoul, Korea. We partnered with a craft bar called Celery City Craft, in historic downtown Sanford, Florida.
WHAT’S YOUR SIGNATURE BITE?
AR: The avocado tower has been paying my rent for 12 years!
Know a band with Florida roots?
SCAN THE CODE AND TELL FLAMINGO!
This year marks the 200th anniversary of Florida’s Capital City! Ambitious from the beginning, come explore our fascinating past, enjoy festive events and be a part of history while celebrating Tallahassee’s Bicentennial.
Learn more at TallahasseeLeonCounty200.com.
Photo Credit: Erich Martin
Ambitious from the Beginning
ST. AUGUSTINE
Chef Barry Honan cooked in the fabled kitchen of 3-Star-Michelin restaurant Le Bernardin, but it was his off-shift meals that inspired St. Augustine’s hottest new restaurant: Lotus Noodle Bar. Classically trained in French technique, Honan honed his skills under Eric Ripert, while slurping his way through the noodle bars of New York City, finding comfort in the warm bowls and even staging at ramen restaurants to learn how to build depth in the broth. Now he’s brought that love of Japanese flavor grounded in French technique to Lotus where dishes like Garlic Noodle Mazemen marry local blue crab with umami-rich koji-butter in a visually stunning bowl of steaming broth inspired by autumn in Japan. A thoughtful selection of Japanese beer, global wines and sake pair with the inventive menu. lotusnoodlebar.com
JACKSONVILLE
For the first time in 20 years, a welcoming LGBTQ+ bar opened its doors on East Adams Street. Operator Tim Hoal and business partners Elias Hionides and Tod Knudson fell in love with the Mediterranean Revival-style architecture of the 1926 historic building. Inside Hardwick’s Bar, named after beloved North Florida architect Taylor Hardwick, bold colors mingle with a stunning solid ash bar, splashes of pop art and a lineup of regional DJs spinning dance-floor bops to create a sophisticated yet spunky space. The beauty and execution of classic cocktails like the Negroni
crafted with Hardshore gin, Campari and Dolin Rouge vermouth are a point of pride. Hardwick’s Hotspot Heroines, their wildly entertaining drag show, happens every Thursday night featuring performers from Hamburger Mary’s. A commitment to fostering community makes this a mustdo on the First Coast. hardwicksbarjax.com
FERNANDINA BEACH
Between the sumptuous hand-stitched, soft cotton chambray quilts by John Robshaw Textiles, the aromatic scents from Erbario Toscano in Italy, the coastal bits and bobs by Amanda Lindroth and so much more, the Isola Home showroom brims with elevated home decor and gifts. Located in a beautifully renovated
Victorian home in Fernandina Beach’s downtown historic district, founder Lori Lecker offers interior design services, gifts, lighting, tableware, art, furniture, home accessories, candles, fragrances and more. Lecker partners with the Bridge e-commerce family to offer a free, one-of-a-kind registry for weddings, birthdays, Mother’s Day, bridal showers and baby showers—they make it easy to shop by designer, department, price or occasion to ensure you’ll find the perfect present. isolahome.net
TALLAHASSEE
Their journey to craft brewing began on hiking trails, in state parks, pitching tents in campgrounds, building sandcastles on the beach
and gathering together at the breweries connecting those places. Four families recently banded together to open Tallahassee’s latest craft beer establishment, Amicus Brewing, in the historic Old City Waterworks Building. “One of our favorite pastimes while trekking the families around was visiting the local breweries in the area. It’s a time of joy to relax in great conversation with your friends over beer while your kids can explore a safe space,” says co-owner Shaun York. The family-friendly taproom pours a variety of craft beers, like the Cascades American pale ale and the Sermon on the Stout coffeebased brew, plus a curated wine list and nonalcoholic beverages to pair with the rotating food trucks on site most evenings. amicusbrewingventures.com
ORLANDO
Led by Michelin-starred chef Freddy Money, Nami infuses traditional Japanese cuisine with European favorites to create a genre-bending, taste bud-tantalizing menu of hybrid dishes like tuna pizza with anchovy aioli and lobster donuts, miniature sweet dough sandwiches with lobster salad in the middle. Located on the west side of the Lake Nona Wave Hotel, the funky yet refined eatery offers a late-night menu of childlike indulgences such as their Nami nuggets—a new take on chicken nuggets with
Immerse yourself in the 19th-century lives that once thrived here through our captivating Guided and Self-Guided Audio Tours. With specialty events and ever-evolving exhibits, there's always something going on at the Ximenez-Fatio House! From March 6- May 14th join us for a special exhibit of “Dressing Louisa” featuring fashions from the lifetime of our final boarding house owner, Miss Louisa Fatio, spanning from 1797 to 1885. Enjoy our wonderful collection of clothes and accessories from the Greek Revival to the Gilded Age and Victorian times! We hope to see you there!
www.ximenezfatiohouse.org
an homage to the historic 1959 Colonial Lanes bowling alley that once stood in its place, salvaged materials from the original lanes adorn the bar, walls and tabletops. Only eight lanes remain, but with the chefdriven menu featuring elevated American classics like their viral house-made hot dog and an atmosphere that features a sleek midcentury design, you don’t have to sacrifice luxury for a night of fun at Primrose. Slide into a booth overlooking the lanes and sip on a French bowler tequila cocktail or keep things classic with a root beer float. Perfect for families or groups of friends, grab a bite at
the restaurant, stick around for happy hour and aim for a strike on the lanes. primroselanes.com
TAMPA
Home is where the hearth is, according to restaurant group Next Level Brands’s latest establishment. Centering the menu around their live-fire hearth, Union New American offers a diverse range of dishes, such as the sea bass satay with miso glaze and the smoked eggplant enchilada. The gorgeous two-story restaurant seats up to 180 people and includes an additional intimate
dining room and outdoor area. White chaise lounges beckon Sunday brunchers to relax in the porch’s airy ambiance with hanging florals, while the warm hearth and light wood paneling invites guests indoors. Order the wildly popular Parker House milk bread, served with cultured butter and honey that melts softly in your mouth, or the hearth roasted platter of king crab legs, oysters, shrimp, clams and lobster for the entire table. Top it all off by toasting with Union’s twist on the tropic thunder, a tequila-based cocktail with ancho chilies, pineapple and a blue salted rim. uniontampa.com
Above: Order the Kojo’s rainbow sushi roll from Union New American.
MIAMI BEACH
Don’t let the name fool you: Rum Room is about more than just imbibing, it’s about creating a vibrant community steeped in local history. Opened in the spring of 2023, Rum Room takes residence inside the historic Carl Fisher Clubhouse on the Miami Beach Convention Center campus. The 80-seat restaurant hearkens to 1920s Florida, where tropical style was rampant and a desire to impress was at the forefront. Led by culinary veteran Ismael Lasalle, Rum Room’s upscale menu along with its extensive rum list draws on Florida’s history and Miami’s Haitian, Latin and Central American influences. “I’m honored to
of the oldest public buildings on Miami Beach, Rum Room holds a very special spot in my heart,” says Lasalle. “While I have an opportunity to flex my creative muscles for largescale events at the convention center, at Rum Room, the approach is more intimate. This is where I meld my Puerto Rican culture with a melting pot of inspirations that are authentically Miami.” rumroommiamibeach.com
CAPE CORAL
Like most ideas, it started as a joke. When Dario Fontanella invented spaghetti ice cream in the 1960s, the Italian-German inventor only wanted to delight his kids. Little did he know
Holy Moly Ice Cream founders Stefan and Sonja Raab have taken the original idea and transplanted it to Cape Coral, where the German natives opened their storefront off Del Prado Boulevard last summer. Through the open kitchen, dessert lovers can witness Holy Moly’s spaghetti ice cream—which is more gelato than ice cream—come to life. Popular menu items include the chocolaty Choco Loco and the Classic, with vanilla gelato and homemade strawberry sauce. Oh, how sweet it is! holymolyice.com
Equal parts chill and chic, The House is everything
October 2023, this eatery anchors the newly opened 18-hole golf course called The Park, a fresh face in the typically staid country club culture. The menu features many inventive dishes such as the spiny lobster corn dog and the clam and chorizo pizza. Led by West Palm Beach native Jason Van Bomel, whose pedigree includes the Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach, creating The House has been a labor of love: “The House will be a special spot, not only for The Park’s golfers but also the greater community that appreciates a quality hospitality experience in a relaxed atmosphere.”
thehousewestpalm.com
Penelope T owners Manne White and Nickie Smith dream in living color … and premium denim and sequins. The friends and fashion lovers are bringing their collection of curated contemporary styles to Fort Lauderdale’s River Market plaza, where the duo will open their third boutique this spring. Designed with texture, feminine curves and vintage-inspired accents, the new store will have as much personality as the owners. “One of our favorite decor purchases so far is a giant brass palm tree from the ’60s,” Smith says. Featuring apparel and accessories from brands such as Simkhai, Saylor and Xirena, Penelope T’s founders are infusing the same concept that has garnered a loyal following at their Jacksonville and Tampa locations into their South Florida store: experiential shopping. Shop with attendants who become friends—and won’t allow you to walk out without looking spectacular.
penelopetboutique.com
fla-keys.com/arts-culture
305-664-9737
divingmuseum.com
305-292-9800
MargaritavilleBeachHouseKeyWest.com
Despite Florida’s dark history of attacking LGTBQ+ communities, its queer authors shine a light on their experiences and refuse to let their voices be silenced.
BEING GAY IN FLORIDA has never been easy. Even defiantly tolerant Key West, where artists and writers like Elizabeth Bishop, Truman Capote and Edmund White could escape America’s debilitating homophobia, had its bad moments. In 1979, a bunch of teenage boys terrorized playwright Tennessee
Williams by throwing beer cans and firecrackers at his Key West house on Duncan Street while hollering slurs. However, the rest of the state has generally been far worse. Before the U.S. Supreme Court decriminalized sex between people of the same gender in 2003, what were called unnatural and
lascivious acts could get you fired, expelled or sent to jail.
In the 1950s and 1960s, Florida’s government dedicated a department to terrorizing LGBTQ+ people. You may have never heard of the Florida Legislative Investigation Committee. In fact, I took several
Florida history classes in which it was not even mentioned. The FLIC was a state-funded group of powerful conservative Dixiecrats spreading fear, hate and paranoia. Organized in 1956, the FLIC made it its mission to root out social, political and racial deviants. First, they tried to prove that the NAACP was a communist front. When they failed to unmask any Marxists among Florida’s civil rights leaders, committee chairman and Sen. Charley Johns decided to expand his inquisition to the state education system. He reckoned he could uncover radical integrationists who were also gay. In 1958, Johns’s son Jerome, then a student at the University of Florida, told his daddy that “effeminate instructors had perverted the curriculum.” Sen. Johns and his henchmen were convinced a cabal of queer academics were luring innocent undergraduates into “man love.” Their evidence included observing male professors having lunch together or wearing Bermuda shorts on campus. I haven’t looked up how many female professors taught at UF in the 1950s and 1960s, but I’ll bet you it was hard to find a female academic to hang out with.
The committee wielded law enforcement like a cudgel. Uniformed cops invaded campuses across the state, hauling students and professors out of their classrooms midlecture and taking them away for interrogation. More than 100 faculty and public school teachers were fired or forced to resign; at least one attempted suicide. More than 400 students were forced to drop out of college on suspicion of gayness or support for racial justice, including UF’s Rita Mae Brown, who would go on to write the groundbreaking novel “Rubyfruit Jungle.”
The FLIC came to a screeching halt in 1964 when it published a report called “Homosexuality and Citizenship in Florida.” This taxpayer-funded screed, better known as the “Purple Pamphlet” for its lurid violet cover of two shirtless men kissing, was supposed to
alert Floridians that gays wanted to “subvert the American way of life by controlling academic institutions and by corrupting the nation’s moral fiber.” It backfired. Citizens recoiled; the state attorney general warned the legislature to stop distributing their “obscene and pornographic” pamphlet. The FLIC was forced to disband.
It’s true things are better today in many ways. Same-sex couples can marry and adopt children. LGBTQ+ people can join the
Uniformed cops invaded campuses across the state, hauling students and professors out of their classrooms.
military. They can become teachers. It’s against the law to discriminate against them in medical care or public accommodations. There are gay members of Florida’s legislature, including Sen. Shevrin D. Jones of Miami-Dade County and St. Petersburg’s Rep. Michele Rayner. While cities across Florida, from Pensacola to Miami, hold Pride parades, that doesn’t mean it’s easy being gay—or queer or transgender. Florida now has statutes forbidding discussion of sexual orientation or gender identity in schools. So-called warriors against woke have transformed New College of Florida, the once highly regarded honors school which traditionally welcomed gay and trans students, into a place actively hostile to anyone who
doesn’t fit their new conservative model. Half the faculty have left, academic standards have been lowered and a weirdly large number of scholarship athletes admitted.
It’s almost as if Florida’s government is trying to erase gayness from the public sphere.
The “Parental Rights in Education” legislation, better known as the “Don’t Say Gay” bill, forbids teachers to say anything about gender and sexuality in their kindergarten through 12th grade classrooms unless it’s part of a health class. A kid who is proud to talk about their two dads? A kid struggling with their sexuality? A kid whose birth certificate says “Edward” but whose parents call her “Anna” and know she identifies as a girl? Verboten.
And it’s not just the LGBTQ+ community being forced back into the closet. The state of Florida now has a law forbidding instruction which might cause “guilt, anguish or other forms of psychological distress.” This law forbids teachers from discussing the ethnic cleansing of Florida’s native peoples, for example, or teaching students how Florida’s government fought tooth and nail to preserve white supremacy. I recall that my ninth grade history teacher assigned newspaper accounts from 1964 when civil rights activists came to St. Augustine. We read about riots started by the KKK and an incident where a white motel owner dumped acid into a motel swimming pool to force out protesters attempting to desegregate the pool. These days, a Florida teacher could get fired for assigning this type of material in their classroom. If they support a child scared to come out to their family or if they mention being gay themselves, they could be accused of promoting the homosexual lifestyle. A sixth grade teacher in Orlando faced parental complaints after he married a man. A fourth grade teacher in Miami-Dade County was driven out of her job by hostile colleagues who felt that same-sex relationships were “not right in God’s eyes.”
Just as that St. Augustine motel owner feared Black skin could contaminate his pool in 1964, some parents, aided and abetted by the state of Florida, think a gay teacher can turn their kids gay—or worse. Responding to criticism of the ban on teachers discussing sexual orientation or gender identity in the classroom, Gov. DeSantis’s spokeswoman once said anyone who objected to the bill was “probably a groomer.”
The state seems most frightened of education, desperate to suppress any materials that could offer validation to gay or trans children, or, for that matter, children of color. Last May, the Hernando County School Board investigated a teacher who showed the Disney movie “Strange World” to her fifth grade class. One parent (who also happens to be a school board member) reported the teacher for showing a movie featuring an openly gay character and accused the teacher of “stripping the innocence of (her)10-year-old.” In Leon County, a mother complained about
the availability of the picture book “I am Billie Jean King” in the school library, claiming that it harmed her child by mentioning that the great tennis champion is gay. Conservative group Moms for Liberty have made it their mission to ban books by prominent Black authors such as Toni Morrison, Angie Thomas and Zora Neale Hurston—one of Florida’s greatest writers.
Literature is subversive; it helps us question authority. It’s no wonder Florida leads the nation in banned books. But you can’t keep a good writer down, even (maybe especially) in Florida. Kristen Arnett’s 2019 bestseller “Mostly Dead Things” is a wry, poignant, funny novel about a lesbian taxidermist in Central Florida. Other Florida-inflected writers include Elias Rodriques, whose 2021 novel “All the Water I’ve Seen Is Running” captures a group of Florida teenagers confronting sexuality, race and death, and poet Richard Blanco, whose work explores his tangled identity as a Cuban exile and a gay man. Anne Hull’s beautiful 2023 memoir “Through the Groves” recounts her coming of
age and coming out in the hot green kingdom of orange and grapefruit trees, dusty little roads and families connected to the land for generations. Hull, a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist who worked at the Tampa Bay Times and The Washington Post, is gay, and the Florida of her youth wasn’t entirely welcoming. But her book is about more than her insisting that the world make room for her. It’s also a kind of elegy for the lost wild Florida that has been bulldozed and drained to build strip malls and beige retirement communities. For a deeper look into Hull’s story, read an excerpt of her recent memoir on page 31.
I wish I could say that incidents like a preacher praying for Hull to be delivered from her gayness no longer happen, but they do. Still, books like “Through the Groves,” teachers like those just trying to be who they are and young people who don’t understand why they cannot love who they love, insist that we hear their voices no matter how much the state tries to stifle them. In an essay about preparations for her wedding to fellow writer Kayla Kumari Upadhyaya, Arnett says, “The Florida in me wants you to know that I’m not giving up.” She adds, “We’re here, we’re queer and we’re not leaving.”
Diane Roberts is an eighthgeneration Floridian, educated at Florida State University and Oxford University. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, The Guardian and the Tampa Bay Times. She has also authored four books, including “Dream State,” a historical memoir of Florida.
The Breakers remains a timeless icon in its 128th year while continuing to reinvent itself in a modern era, including the most recent revival of its exclusive Flagler Club, a boutique hotel inside the hotel. By
Today, on The Breakers’s 128th birthday, the grand dame at the center of Palm Beach feels more regal and alive than ever. Gusts from the Atlantic Ocean conform into gentle breezes as they collide with the oceanfront property on this Tuesday morning, filling the Italian Renaissancestyle hotel with effervescent breaths as guests and club members mill around the 200-foot-long lobby. A young couple enters the lobby and stares in awe at what envelops them: a dramatic arched ceiling hand-painted by 75 Italian artisans and the 161-by-25-foot carpet with a colorful botanical motif. They ask a passerby to take a picture of them next to the enormous hexagonal floral arrangement that anchors the lobby, a familiar scene which has been played out by guests for decades.
The feeling is unified on this special birthday: The Breakers may be 128 years old, but it’s just getting started.
Opposite: Model Isabella Gonzalez has a lot to unpack in her room at the exclusive Flagler Club, which is a boutique hotel occupying the top two private floors of The Breakers.
Below: Enjoy panoramic views of the city from the Flagler Club’s iconic terrace, which was recently infused with comfortable modern seating, bright textiles and plush pillows.
Though today’s birthday is a momentous occasion by all accounts, only a quiet celebration is taking place behind closed doors among a handful of team members and with minimal fanfare. It’s a fitting birthday tribute to the iconic hotel and its leadership team, who believe that a hat tip to the past is vital, but find it just as rewarding to look to the future.
Tricia Taylor, The Breakers’s newly installed president, is one of the few employees who might grab a slice of birthday cake, or not. She hasn’t decided yet. But she will sing “Happy Birthday” with her colleagues, she insists. A soft-spoken hospitality veteran who has worked at The Breakers for 28 years, Taylor arrived to the property as a 24-year-old graduate of Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration. Despite her education, which includes a stop at New York City’s Waldorf Astoria, nothing could have prepared Taylor for what she was about to experience: a 140-acre property with a palatial main building emerging from the center of its oceanfront
My family and I wanted to escape to The Breakers during a few open days in January—and to check out the immaculate Flagler Club, the recently renovated 21-room boutique hotel located on two private floors of the main hotel building. Closed for nearly one year for a full-scale renovation, Flagler Club’s much-anticipated reopening proved to be worth the wait. Like all visitors of The Breakers, there was no shortage of decadent treats awaiting us, otherwise known in the hospitality industry as surprise and delights. Kids are often gifted with stuffed animals either upon arrival or as a parting present from the valet attendant (a shark and flamingo, in my kids’ cases). Gourmet chocolate bonbons from Norman Love Confections are left on nightstands during turndown service (mysteriously disappearing from my nightstand and later appearing on my husband’s nightstand). Staff members greet you by name. The list goes on and on.
lot, two 18-hole golf courses, a beach club that would eventually house four pools and a premier food and beverage program that would soon recruit one of the world’s few female master sommeliers. Though she admits her knowledge of The Breakers at that time was limited, “I did know it was the grand dame of hotels,” says Taylor, a native of the Pacific Northwest.
To become acquainted with The Breakers is to become familiar with its founder, groundbreaking industrialist Henry M. Flagler. On the business side, Flagler made his extreme fortune in oil. The Flagler Museum, located steps from The Breakers in Palm Beach and which serves to preserve the magnate’s impact, writes on their website that “By the time of his death in 1913, Henry Flagler had accumulated almost unimaginable wealth from his business ventures. Flagler’s estate was worth an estimated $100 million, equivalent to more than $12.5 billion today.”
Henry Flagler was unrelenting in his pursuit of improving.
—TRICIA TAYLOR
And who wouldn’t agree with Taylor? From ballrooms with ceilings painted in gold diagonal patterns and adorned with 260 hand-carved cherubs to a domed event space with oval frescos depicting Renaissance landscapes, The Breakers is nothing less than spectacular.
A resident of New York and then Ohio, Flagler saw potential in Florida where others had not. Then considered an undeveloped, too-tropical part of the country, Florida was unattractive
JESUS BRAVO
by most standards. Except to Flagler. He helped develop St. Augustine by building the 540-room Hotel Ponce de Leon in 1888 at the age of 58. Realizing that the area needed an improved transportation system to carry hotel guests, Flagler began buying railroad tracks in Northeast Florida, laying the groundwork for what would eventually become the Florida East Coast Railway.
He went on to construct a winter resort for wealthy tourists in Palm Beach. In 1894, Royal Poinciana Hotel opened and two years later, the Palm Beach Inn (what is now called The Breakers) opened. The hotel was so renamed because the ocean waves would crash and break against the property’s sand. Back then, The Breakers’s room rates started at $4 a night and included three meals a day.
BY SONYA(including the Vanderbilts, Carnegies and Astors), America’s Riviera that supplanted the South of France as the destination of choice around the time of World War I.
“He just opened up the entire state of Florida in 25 years,” Rose says of Flagler.
“He was the Elon Musk of that era,” says Rick Rose, a former hotelier and Palm Beach’s premier historian. “Building up Florida and Palm Beach at that time was literally akin to Musk saying that he’s going to take a rocket to the moon.”
The risky move paid off for the visionary. During the Gilded Age, Palm Beach became a playground for the wealthy
The Breakers as we know it today, a 534-room property that’s an ode to iconic Mediterranean villas, is actually the third iteration of the hotel, with two separate fires taking down the first two buildings (needless to say, the third structure was very much focused on incorporating nonflammable building materials). Flagler himself has never seen this version of his groundbreaking hotel, but somehow he has immortalized himself within these walls.
A walk in any of the hotel’s halls brings us closer to Flagler and his legend. His framed portrait, white mustache and hair parted down the center, is hung in a hallway just off the lobby, watching over guests as they admire his vision. Now both a hotel and club, with memberships available at The Breakers Ocean Club and the nearby Breakers West Country Club, The Breakers has ballooned into a luxurious aspirational lifestyle.
The property is still a family-owned business, bequeathed to Flagler’s third wife, Mary Lily Kenan, and later her family, the Kenans, when she died. It is one of the few family-owned, independent hotels in the world—a rarity in today’s world of mergers and acquisitions. The Kenan family prefer to stay out of the media (through their representative, they politely declined an interview for this story, and I couldn’t find one recent quote by a Kenan member about the resort), but their touch on the hotel is what speaks volumes. They invest an average of $30 million annually into maintaining the property—restoring or improving the guest experience—with notable changes including the 2012 addition HMF, a vibey lounge that stays open late into the evening, and Henry’s Palm Beach, a bistro where American comfort food with a Palm Beach twist is served.
“They are constantly asking, ‘How can we make improvements and better the property?’”
says Taylor, who works directly with the family and the board of directors to determine its revitalization plans. “Every part of a guest’s touchpoint is looked at to analyze how it can be improved.”
At the pinnacle of The Breakers’s elite guest-experience ethos, literally and figuratively, is the Flagler Club. Taylor oversaw the renovation of this “hotel within a hotel” that is marketed as an ultra-exclusive boutique experience noted for its privacy and dedicated staff, including a chauffeur for the club’s Tesla reserved only for guests. Reopened in November 2023, the 13-room, eight-suite space is located on the sixth and seventh floors at the top of The Breakers, with restricted access for Flagler Club guests. Guests also have entry to the private lounge and sixth-floor terrace overlooking the hotel’s iconic palm-lined driveway, Lake Worth Lagoon and West Palm Beach (“with incredible sunsets,” Taylor adds).
The refreshed space “reflects today’s travelers,” says Jessica Regen, the general manager of Flagler Club, while sitting at the club lounge, which has hosted private events with beauty brand Guerlain and famed fine-art photographer Gray Malin.
To reimagine the boutique hotel, The Breakers enlisted
The guest appearances alone are a who’s who in culinary excellence at the Palm Beach Food & Wine Festival. And if you’re lucky enough to be in the area in the winter, be sure to snag a ticket to meet chefs and taste divine dishes from the likes of Daniel Boulud, Robert Irvine, Stephanie Izard and Alon Shaya as they make their way throughout the island and county to share recipes that are dear to their hearts. pbfoodwinefest.com
There’s shopping, and then there’s shopping. Against manicured lawns, serene fountains and myriad high-end brands and retailers, the outdoor shopping at The Royal Poinciana Plaza is an experience unto itself. theroyalpoincianaplaza.com
Henry Flagler’s opulent 75-room winter residence, Whitehall, has been transformed into the Flagler Museum, a national historic landmark that’s home to Flagler’s favorite items, including his famed Railcar No. 91. flaglermuseum.us
If you’re looking to leave The Breakers’s property, but not stray away from its incredible service, then take a quick drive or bike ride to Henry’s Palm Beach, an American-inspired bistro that serves a Mississippi mud pie big enough to share (but we wouldn’t fault you if you didn’t want to). thebreakers.com
Small plates with big flavors are the vibe at Buccan, where chef Clay Conley has been recognized by none other than the James Beard Foundation for his mouthwatering creations. buccanpalmbeach.com
Tihany Design, their aesthetics partner since 2012, and whose hospitality portfolio includes designing The Beverly Hills Hotel, Mandarin Oriental, Geneva and Casa Manni Roma. Managing partner Alessia Genova and her team were tasked with keeping an elegant, Palm-Beach look, but ensuring a light and airy vibe, almost “homey experience” Genova says. That is, if your home was designed by a New York City-based firm with a namesake who is an inductee of the Interior Design Hall of Fame. Gone are the brown and bulky furnishings, and in are the classic Palm Beachinspired motifs and finishes, such as seafoam green architectural chairs, coral-pink accent pillows and off-white sofas with undulating backs that mimic the soft waves breaking outdoors. Guest rooms are equipped with Dyson Supersonic hair dryers, L’Occitane en Provence products and luxurious Frette robes and slippers, all
exclusive to Flagler Club guests.
“The history informed, in the sense that it is there. You have to acknowledge it and embrace it,” Genova says. “We were ready to continue that story with this renovation, something that fits Palm Beach, a sunny place with palm trees and
Building up Florida at that time was akin to Musk saying he’s going to take a rocket to the moon .
—RICK ROSE
the beach, but with sophistication.” Escorting me to Flagler Club today is Bernard Nicole, who personally met me downstairs at the lobby to welcome me to the property. If you ask the French-born Nicole what his role at Flagler Club is, he
Fashion highlights:
would simply reply, “I am Flagler Club.” And, to be honest, he’s not wrong. Nicole helped open Flagler Club 28 years ago, and then transitioned it from the typical club-level space found at most hotels to its current status as a luxury boutique hotel. With his charismatic, old-school hospitality, Nicole epitomizes the tradition set by The Breakers’s owners from day one. The text messages that I received earlier in the day alerting me that my suite was ready, showcase the bridge from yesteryear’s personal touch to today’s modern luxury. Not to mention the decadent food and beverage offerings that are available four times a day at the Flagler Club lounge, including a rotating menu of chef-made bites (when I was there, it was hand-rolled sushi, fresh caviar and toast points, and lobster rolls topped with edible flowers) while the dedicated chef also creates made-to-order omelets during breakfast hours and a bartender mixes handcrafted cocktails and pours Champagne during the evening. And the desserts. Let’s just say gorgeous displays of macarons, bonbons, fresh-baked cookies and mini fruit tarts seem to be the norm—and we haven’t even talked about the freezer drawer filled with Häagen-Dazs ice cream mini cups.
When asked if Flagler Club encapsulates Henry Flagler’s vision, one that dates back over a century, Taylor does not hesitate with her answer. “I believe it does. It’s one of the reasons why we call it Flagler Club. Henry Flagler was unrelenting in his pursuit of improving, and Flagler Club is just that.”
The sunny locale that quickly became a preferred destination for America’s wealthiest just before the turn of the 20th century hasn’t released its grip yet on its place
as one of Florida’s most revered hotels. It has hauled in a moving truck’s worth of awards, including recognition as a AAA Five Diamond property. However, its most impressive honor is one that a guest might overlook but is beyond important to the executive team and family owners. In 2023, the property was named one of the 2023 Fortune 100 Best Companies to Work For, the first and only independent hotel to receive this distinction. Of the nearly 2,300 employees, 97% voluntarily filled out the survey, with 94% responding that The Breakers is a great place to work, compared to 57% of employees at a typical U.S.-based company. Historically, The Breakers has been noted for its staff diversity and abundance of women in leadership.
“That’s one of the reasons I have stayed here for 28 years,” Taylor says. “From the moment I interviewed here, I was told that the team comes first and that you are important.”
Back at the hotel lobby, Taylor walks me to my car, gifting me with two generous portions of The Breakers’s famous chocolate chip cookies. It’s a homey, familial gesture that somehow simultaneously feels luxurious, thanks to their presentation inside a clear cube box tied up with a navy blue silk bow. As the sun sets on our conversation and we walk past the massive Florentine-inspired fountain at the resort’s main driveway, I look back at the palace on the sea, admiring its vastness. I’m reminded of what historian Rick Rose told me earlier, about how “we would never have had a population here without Flagler” and that “this hotel is perhaps his living legacy.”
“He’s often heralded as a visionary,” Taylor says of Flagler. “And I’d have to think that today’s Breakers would have exceeded his imagination and expectations. He would have been surprised.” What a vision that would have been.
Employees at a Central Florida sanctuary for great apes never expected what they found one morning in the hands of an orangutan.
By ERIC BARTONPhotography by JOSH LETCHWORTH // Illustrations by JULES OZAETA
Patti Ragan misplaces her radio a lot. Usually, it’s wherever she left her phone.
It’s not that she’s a forgetful person exactly. It’s that her head swims in the swirling pool of the big picture. As founder, director and chief fundraiser for a great ape sanctuary, Ragan has 68 rescued chimpanzees and orangutans in her care at a facility in Central Florida.
But that morning in her office four years ago, Ragan had her radio right next to her. It revealed the voice of one of the keepers who cares for the apes like a doting parent. “Can you come right now?” the radio blared. The tone said urgency. Maybe not an emergency, not yet, but important.
Then the woman yelled again, “I mean right now!”
Ragan ran from her office, jumped in a golf cart and sped toward one of the enclosures that held three orangutans.
You think the worst in those situations. Maybe a fight. Maybe fatal. It happens among apes, as it does with humans. Inexplicable violence. One of the rescued orangutans in Ragan’s care, Mari, is a testament to that. For reasons nobody understands, her young mother bit both of Mari’s arms off when she was just a baby.
When Ragan got to the enclosure, she found her employees huddled together. Things looked solemn. Ragan maintains a memorial garden on the outskirts of the property for the apes who have died there, mostly of old age or cancer or heart disease, the same things that come for us. She wondered if she’d be making a new cross for the garden.
An intern wheeled around as Ragan walked up. He was smiling. Why is he smiling? He mouthed words she couldn’t believe. Impossible. There’s no way. “She had a baby.”
Since the beginning, Ragan has used birth control to make
Ragan got lost in this forest the first time she went to visit in the late 1990s. Unlike the farmland and phosphate mines nearby, it’s a patch of Florida as the Seminoles knew it, with oak trees and cabbage palms and a stream through the center. With the dense canopy and gray sky that morning making it impossible to tell north from south, it’s easy to see how anybody could lose their bearings without the pathways that cut through it now. When I met Ragan on one of the crushed-shell pathways, she told me, “I marvel at the beauty of this sanctuary.”
Ragan stands nearly 5-foot tall, the kind of person people say is a bundle of energy. Always moving, always narrating. As she drove me around in the golf cart, she recited family trees of the apes like she was tracing back her own people. Stopping
sure her apes don’t reproduce. That’s the point of the place, to help end the captivity of great apes, to give the rescues a pleasant place under shady oak trees to live out their days.
But sometimes birth control doesn’t work. Sometimes there’s a miracle.
To reach the Center for Great Apes, I made a three-hour drive northwest from Miami, through sugar fields that sent up smoke signals as workers burned spent cane. Then it was orange groves, with netting hanging over saplings like ghosts floating through the rows. There were cattle ranches with herds spread out on fields of scrub and then a dirt road that ends at a chain-link fence. No sign, no indication of what lives under the trees.
at enclosures, she spoke with her apes in a motherly tone, with a level of understanding that’s hard to believe—Ragan translating their sounds or body language, and the apes comprehending complex sentences. I watched her predict the aggressive posture of an ape new to the center just before he warned us away by spitting water. Minutes later, at the enclosure that holds Noelle, a kind-faced chimpanzee, Ragan told her to move to the center of her enclosure for a photo. And she did. Like she understood every word.
This wasn’t anything Ragan had planned to do. Ragan grew up in the Shenandoah area of Miami, raised by a single mom bound to a wheelchair after a bout with polio. Her mom took correspondence courses to become a bookkeeper and eventually bought a candy store where all the kids would go after school. It had a soda fountain and cotton candy machine. After graduating from Florida State University, Ragan took a job teaching on a Miccosukee reservation. She’d tromp in the swamps with the students to photograph birds and orchids, and it was then that she learned to appreciate the order and chaos of nature. “I think it shaped my
life,” she says, “even doing what I’m doing now.” She traveled through her 20s, living in Boston, Seattle, Honolulu and San Francisco. She volunteered on a killer whale project in Puget Sound and then in ’84 headed to Borneo to track wild orangutans for a research project. She lived in a primitive rainforest shelter and collected feces to better understand the ape’s diet. “I wanted to live there for
Pongo home at night. “I just thought I’d take care of this baby, and he would go on to a good zoo,” she says.
Ragan eventually took on the responsibility of caring for all the apes at the tourist attraction—two orangutans and three chimpanzees. But their captivity nagged at her, the fact that these creatures that Ragan was more and more starting to see as her family would be kept in cages so they could be gawked at all day. Slowly, over three years, she convinced the owner that the apes needed to go to a sanctuary.
Using the money she had made selling the business, Ragan set up a nonprofit and began looking for land. Miami was too expensive, so Ragan started looking west and north— farther north every time, until finally, she found substantial acreage near Wauchula, the self-proclaimed cucumber capital of the world, with just shy of 5,000 residents and an
The Center for Great Apes was founded in 1993 and moved to its current location in 1997. It’s accredited now by the Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaries, which involves an inspection every three years and a promise that there will
say, a phosphate mine cranking away next door, the center purchased nearby plots of land and now owns 150 acres. Construction over the years has exceeded $17 million, and today it costs over $25,000 a year for each ape’s care. Ragan gets no help from government sources, mostly collecting operating expenses from people who have seen the occasional news report about the center. A $75 donation enrolls you in a membership program that includes special events like a recent unveiling of a collaboration with Miamibased Tripping Animals Brewing. They commemorated the 30th anniversary of the center by creating three custom beers featuring one-of-a-kind labels. There’s an adopt-an-ape program that, for $25 a month or a one-time fee of $300, gets you perks like a private tour of the center for four people.
It would be hard to imagine a better setup for the apes. Inside the enclosures are trees and thick fire hoses and ropes
for climbing and swinging. Chimpanzees that weigh about 100 pounds move quickly through the space, while the orangutans, sometimes hitting 300 pounds, often saunter more slowly, their long hair hanging down like frilly coats. They eat fresh fruit and vegetables, supplemented by a primate chow, and they get regular medical care from a vet. They move them between enclosures regularly, the change of place cutting the monotony. Caregivers have what they call enrichment activities—there are even TVs in the night houses, with the movie “Frozen” being a favorite. If she could, Ragan would release them all. These are apes raised by humans, and none of them would make it in the wild. “It’s still a captivity,” she says. “I never lose sight of that.”
Mostly, the apes came with backstories of jobs they’d done or worse. But that morning when she rushed from her office, she had something new: her first baby born at the center.
could see something in one of their hands. Like a package. A little bundle of orange fur.
By the time Ragan approached, Chorman had moved beyond the first question—what happened? —and on to something more important: Is the baby alive?
Chorman knew one of the main problems they’d have that morning was one of trust. The mother, Sunshine, had given birth three times in captivity before coming to the center. All of her babies had been taken away soon after birth. Orangutans, they say, have the mental capacity of a 5-year-old human, and she’d likely assume her keepers would take this one too.
People would laugh back then when she said she’d work with primates when she grew up. However, after college, she moved to Wauchula to work with Ragan. That was eight years ago. Chorman was putting together breakfast for the apes when she spotted the blood. Chorman approached the apes. She
Sunshine had worked doing live stage shows at a Los Angeles theme park. Most of Ragan’s apes worked on movie and TV show sets. In recent years, production companies have agreed to stop using apes in productions, relying on CGI instead. Some of the rescued apes here are famous: there’s
It’s still a captivity. I never lose sight of that.
— Patti Ragan
orangutan deemed to have “non-human personhood” status by a Buenos Aires court. The 2015 ruling meant Sandra had to be sent to a sanctuary instead of the zoo that had housed her alone for years until she arrived at the center in 2019.
As Hollywood ended the practice of using apes in produc tions, so largely did the circus industry stopping the inclusion of live animals in their shows altogether. In Florida, it’s generally illegal to own an ape as a pet ficult-to-acquire license is required. In recent years, Congress has failed to pass a federal ban on owning apes as pets
Also living under the Wauchula oak trees are rescues from invasive animal testing labs. Some arrived here after being tortured in cages barely bigger than they are. Linus, rescued in 2006, had never left a basement and was barely able to walk with pounds of feces matted in his hair. Seeing rain for the first time at his new home, he stood there and let it soak him.
New arrivals still come to the center. The newest is Larry, born in Missouri and then sent to a Hollywood trainer who couldn’t find work as the industry shifted away from using live animals. Larry spent a decade at an Arkansas zoo, most recently by himself—a social animal like us, alone. He arrived last November. The day I was there, Larry was in a smaller enclosure with no other chimps as he got acclimated. He was restless and unruly, spitting mouthfuls of water at us. I kept thinking of Maslow’s hierarchy of needs, how humans struggle when the basic things we desire from life aren’t fulfilled. At 25 years old, Larry may have finally found love and belonging, safety and security, water and shelter. Ragan explained that once he’s gotten used to the place, any day now, they’ll move him in with a group of chimps that will become his family, and they’ll teach him how to behave around humans, how we’re not his enemy.
pandemic, they had something exciting to turn to. The staff all submitted names. They picked Cahaya, which means “radiant light” in Malay.
Cahaya turned 4 years old this February. She’s being raised by Sunshine, her father, Archie, and her aunt, Keagan. Cahaya’s hair has remained brighter than the others, the orange glow of the sun right before it sets, and it sticks straight up on the crown of her head. She’s got big eyes, dark pupils filling them, which reminded me of a Beanie Baby. Her thin lips curl upward, a perpetual smile. On the morning I visited, Chorman and Ragan fed Cahaya Craisins through the bars of the enclosure. Cahaya is gangly, all arms and legs that pull her across the bars of the enclosure like a dexterous kid on a jungle gym.
So, you could see why Chorman thought Sunshine wouldn’t trust her with her baby. As Chorman stood just beyond the enclosure a few days later, Sunshine cradled the baby. Then she held it forward, for Chorman to see. Was the ape offering it to her because she knew the humans would take it? Or proudly showing it off?
“That’s your baby,” Chorman told her. “You get to keep her.”
For the 40 people who work at the center and another 50 volunteers, this was a miracle. A fuzzy orange baby that wasn’t supposed to be. It was February 2020, and in the lockdown that followed, with all that stress and pain that came with the
There’s a moment that Ragan and Chorman like to reflect on when Cahaya was born. With Chorman worried by the blood and Ragan rushing there in the golf cart, the chimpanzees nearby screamed out, jumping up and down, clapping, eyes wide. These are species that don’t live together in the wild, chimps from Africa and orangutans from Asia. And yet they celebrated the baby together.
There is one complication though to having a newborn. Cahaya could live into her 50s, and her arrival could extend the need for the sanctuary by a decade.
By then, the graveyard on the edge of the property will have expanded with new crosses for apes that lived out their days here. And maybe, someday a half-century from now, there will be just one ape left under the oak trees.
Five years after Hurricane Michael devastated the once sleepy historic Panama City , a reimagined and reinvigorated version emerges.
By CARRIE HONAKER // Photography by LOU COLUMBUS This spread from left: The Martin Theatre and historic downtown Panama City after Hurricane Michael tore through; Patrick Harris performing tricks on the same main street, now revitalized by passionate locals, five years after the stormHurricane Michael tore through Florida’s Panhandle on Oct. 10, 2018, making landfall as a Category 5 storm near Panama City. The violent tempest, with wind speeds up to 161 mph, brought total devastation, ripping off roofs, tossing boats onto shore like toys, unleashing a torrential storm surge and displacing centuries-old live oak trees into once cozy living rooms.
And that was just the landscape. Hospitals shuttered. Grocery stores and gas stations were wiped off the map. A loss of cell service, electricity and municipal water for basic necessities left friends and families isolated and desperate. Survival mode set in, and it stayed for months.
They say only the strong survive, but not even the strong can withstand a Category 5 hurricane. The strong do, however, rebuild, reimagine and restore. And in historic Panama City, a strong few have turned the insurmountable loss into a thriving livelihood that has brought the Panhandle city back—and better than ever.
Kevin Elliott, co-founder and director of Redfish Film Fest, is one of those visionaries. The eye of the storm passed directly over Elliott’s house. “Five houses in my neighborhood just got bulldozed and pushed out to the road,” he said. Allan Branch, co-owner of History Class Brewing Company (once the town appliance store), remembers seeing a local boat dealership owner driving through downtown with chainsaws and generators two months after the storm. Branch added, “He spent a year cutting trees on people’s houses that they couldn’t afford to take down. He did it for free.”
Amid the rubble and devastation, a new energy started building. Before the storm, change had already begun to percolate in the city’s historic downtown with Branch, Tim Whaler
and Dan Magner preparing to open a brewery. Jayson Kretzer, newly appointed Bay Arts Alliance executive director, planned Art on Every Corner initiatives, and Will Thompson was in the throes of setting up Panama City’s Songwriters Festival. Then Hurricane Michael barreled through and put everything on hold, but the people and the grand plans were unshaken.
Elliott said, “The storm’s aftermath accelerated everything by probably 10 years because people got insurance money to renovate the buildings. Some people who owned these buildings forever didn’t want to fix them, so they sold them to local entrepreneurs, making it easier to start all these plans. The storm also invigorated people in their early 40s to early 50s, like me. We grew up here. We’ve seen the rundown downtown for so long, and now we are in decision-making positions. We’re doing the things we’ve always wanted to see in our town. It helped people reevaluate their lives and decide to do something big.”
jacket, yearbook pages from Rutherford and all manner of post-Hurricane Michael memorabilia—tell the story of the town’s resilience. Magner’s 6-foot-2-inch frame is dwarfed by his deep, full-belly laugh as he pours a perfectly headed pint of Belle Booth Blonde, an ale named after Panama City’s first female postmaster. Also on tap is SeaLab Exp. 638, an IPA that
The storm invigorated people in their early 40s to early 50s, like me. We’ve seen the rundown downtown for so long, and now we are in decision-making positions.
Kevin Elliott
On Oct. 10, 2023, a crowd gathered around the century-old downtown clock to watch the ribbon cutting for its restoration. Wagons full of children, pups on leashes and throngs of people lined the street to witness the moment that the clock Hurricane Michael stopped, five years to the day, began to keep time again.
Just across the street from the clock, History Class Brewing Company’s tasting room buzzes with conversation and laughter. The wall coverings—a Bay High School letterman
honors the world’s first underwater living facility developed for the Navy at the U.S. Navy Mine Defense Laboratory in Panama City in the 1960s. Another on rotation is Officer Wilson’s Amber, an ale named after Officer “JC” Wilson, who was Bay County’s first Black police officer. Wilson was not allowed to arrest white people and was assigned a car that only drove forward and not in reverse. And now, thanks to History Class, these people and places live on with every pour.
Branch added, “Every town is founded by and cultivated by people who care. Every bridge is named after somebody who cared. Every school, every stadium, every road that has a name is a story of someone who cared about the area, large or small … and the stories get forgotten.” Branch, Whaler and Magner are helping to forge a new version of Panama City on the legends who came before, big and small.
Kitty-corner from the brewery, the 1936 art deco-styled Martin Theatre beckons with some new shine. Two decades ago, the Martin was the only reason to go downtown. Empty storefronts and broken windows revealed the abandonment of Panama City well before the Category 5 beast gutted its tattered remains.
Panama City has long been known as a dying downtown not worth saving, but Hurricane Michael changed that. “There’s not some magic group that makes things happen—that is us. And we realized if we keep waiting, it will never happen. If you want to start a business, you better start it now. If you want to
see this downtown thrive, you better start it now,” Branch said. Kretzer answered that latent siren call. “After the storm, we checked on the Center for the Arts and found the building damaged, but mostly intact,” Kretzer said. “We looked around, and the landscape was scary. I thought to myself, this is a perfect opportunity to beautify this place with some art.”
The first brushstrokes revealed the “Flutter By” mural on the Center for the Arts, a historic building dating back to 1925 (and was once the city hall). It’s the perfect canvas for the first mural on Panama City’s Mural Trail. Kretzer added, “We chose butterflies as the theme to symbolize the metamorphosis here,
coming out on the other side of the storm, transformed.”
But not all was lost. In fact, some old things were found. Another mural, unmasked during the renovation of another building, joins the artistic landscape. A historic Coca-Cola painting honors the city’s past, while the monarch butterflies erupt from their chrysalises, telegraphing a tale of modern-day resiliency.
The newest addition to downtown’s facades includes the vision of local artist Jen Honeycutt, whose 10,925 squarefoot-wide painting of bright flowers sprouting from a dying blossom, titled “Growing the Seeds of Change,” captures the essence of the town’s rebirth. Kretzer described the ongoing project, “The murals tell a story about who we are right now. We are passionate and resilient in this community.”
Just across the intersection, the first wall you see behind the historic downtown sign blazes with eight works of art, each painted by a different longtime local artist, including Kretzer, who created the “Ninja Bear” as not only a welcome figure but a protecting force for downtown. And Kretzer has big plans for the future. The small parking lot at the Center for the Arts is now a pocket park, and will host concerts, yoga and projection art installations in the heart of downtown. “We want to bring 3D sculptures, more public art and digital art to enhance the nightlife around town,” he said.
A grant from St. Joe Community Foundation helped Kretzer acquire the equipment to set up an immersive gallery where visitors come check out local art and where the next generation of projection artists can learn the craft. Kretzer also dipped his hand in business ownership in 2023. He opened The Portal, a board game cafe modeled after the wildly popular ones in Europe—customers pay $5 and can play games all day. He has nearly 300 games, signature sodas, candy and even a createyour-own soda bar.
For Elliott, it’s hard to explain the excitement of what’s going on in the historic district. “I look around and go, ‘Oh my god, this is happening. This is really happening,’” he said. A lifelong artist and film festival founder, he needed a charming downtown with big buildings in which to show films and house coffee shops, restaurants and bars for attendees to patronize when not watching films and a nice hotel where people from out of town could stay. He also needed walkability so people didn’t have to drive to enjoy the festival.
“When St. Joe opened Hotel Indigo, that was the last piece I needed, besides years of making friends with downtown businesses to help throw the party,” he said.
With the latest addition, Panama Pedal Tours, which pairs transportation with libations, festival attendees can sip and cycle their way from location to location on a 12-passenger megacycle that doubles as a bar. Beth Klein, co-owner of Panama Pedal Tours, worked in radio for Pell Broadcasting before the hurricane but lost her job when the business was blown away. She returned to her hometown of Dayton, Ohio, to regroup, but Panama City kept calling. Two years after the storm, she returned.
“I couldn’t live in a more beautiful, accessible place. Being here before and then coming back after, seeing how much it’s growing, and being a part of something exciting and fresh, makes me want to stay here. There’s a cohesiveness that wasn’t here before the hurricane,” she said.
Beyond collaborating with local entrepreneurs like Elliott, Klein curates tours that focus on everything from the Mural Trail to historic locations and coffee explorations, and each tour is hosted by local drivers who can explain the route and the nuances of each site.
The renaissance isn’t only about what’s new. Concrete survivors like Ferrucci still serve the same authentic Italian food they have been dishing up for decades while Tally-Ho Drive In, a carhop-service, pumps out juicy burgers and thick shakes the way it has since 1949. And just down the way, Dan-D-Donuts & Deli, a fixture since 1965, still amasses a line that snakes 35 feet to its walk-up window every day.
“Great towns remember their stories and protect their buildings. They provide the patina everybody loves,” Branch said.
Local musician Will Thompson, founder of Panama City Songwriters Festival and Emerald Coast native, witnessed the town’s ebbs and flows firsthand over the years. A fifth-generation musician, his lineage stretches back through a series of band directors to a relative who played in a 19th-century ensemble. His respect for songwriting led to his founding of the festival in 2018, right before Hurricane Michael stopped the music. He finds talent across the southeast that focuses on telling stories rooted in the region. Tip-bucket proceeds from the festival go to Thompson’s nonprofit, Bay Youth Music Association, where “the long-term goal is to build a YMCA for musicians, a place you can go after school and practice an instrument you couldn’t afford otherwise,” Thompson said.
The first festival was canceled, but it has grown every year
A new breed of entrepreneurs have infused historic Panama City with a whimsical character all their own by introducing new concepts and giving a shine to some old favorites. If you go, here are some must-see stops that capture a real sense of place.
The brand-new property anchoring the end of Harrison Avenue offers sweeping views of St. Andrews Bay with interiors inspired by the area, pet-friendly rooms and a walkable location convenient to restaurants, bars and businesses in historic downtown. Visit Tarpon’s for their signature snapper served with smoky maque choux or head up stairs to the Steam on 5, the only rooftop bar in Panama City, for a St. Andrew Bay Punch and a view of a fiery Gulf Coast sunset. ihg.com
Once a busy food truck in the alley behind History Class Brewing Company, this brickand-mortar spot for popular taco slingers, also created by Branch, Whaler and Magner, includes its own brewpub with a slightly different flavor than the flagship location. With more than $100,000 invested in the art alone, El Weirdo is a true showcase of the artists of Panama City. Come for the art, stay for the veggie tacos with Brussels sprouts and add a side of queso dip so good you’ll want to drink it. elweirdodowntown.com
No downtown is complete without a cozy coffee shop, and owner Kevin Mitchell along with wife Erica recognized the need while walking around after Hurricane Michael. Today, the exposed brick walls, roomy areas with comfortable seating and the smell of freshly roasted coffee beans fills the bustling space. Congregate, relax and enjoy a house flight of coffees (four signature brews) and a Riding With the King crepe (Nutella, banana, peanut butter: “Thank you, thank you very much”).
thepressdowntown.com
Down the street from Hunt’s Oyster Bar in St. Andrews, this off-the-beaten-path waterfront enclave houses a collection of indie shops and eateries like Finns Island Style Grub, a boho boutique specializing in local crafts, a wine bar that also sells pies and a barista bar. The palm-leaf palapa features a back deck with a rotation of live music and a sign that reads, “Welcome to Little Village. No Strangers. Only Friends We Haven’t Met Yet.” littlevillagepc.com
people just stubborn enough to do it.”
Now, one weekend a year, a half-square-mile section of downtown—which includes a sweaty Downtown Boxing Club, the courtyard between Millies and the Craft Beer Empourium, Elevation hair salon, The Light Room learning space, the Center for the Arts and the street outside History Class Brewing Company—transforms into a regional songwriter’s showcase. Audiences gather shoulder to shoulder, under a blanket of humidity, roaring with applause as musicians keep them rapt hour after hour.
Other festivals and events are adding to the cultural zeitgeist. The Flluxe Arts Festival draws local and national artists who take over downtown to create unique street art. For those looking to escape the crowded French Quarter in New Orleans but still wanting to experience Mardi Gras, the Krewe of St. Andrews Mardi Gras parade and festival just celebrated its 27th anniversary with more than 14 Krewes, 30 brightly colored floats, festive music and tens of thousands of beads and doubloons tossed to a crowd of more than 50,000 people. For the first time since the hurricane, Panama City’s Boat Parade of
Lights returned in 2023 with some 24 boats decked out in hol iday decor navigating the waters from St. Andrews Bay Yacht Club to downtown and the Hathaway Bridge.
These festivals, and the businesses downtown, will benefit from the newly passed sip-and-stroll Social District. This designated area of downtown is a place, “where you can buy a beer from History Class, walk out the front door with your beer and go shop at one of the retail stores. It’s one more way to enhance the walkability of downtown. Now you don’t have to stay in one spot; you can bring your beverage and check out the murals or go shopping on Friday and Saturday evenings,” Kretzer explained.
He also pointed out, “St. Andrews is the first local Panama City neighborhood you encounter coming from the beach. In a lot of ways, they are a welcome sign to what the real Panama City feels like. There’s Hunt’s Oyster Bar, Uncle Ernie’s on the bay, Sunjammers and all these cool, locally owned places in one of the oldest neighborhoods in town.”
Great towns remember their stories and protect their buildings. They provide the patina everybody loves.
When you come to town, you quickly realize Panama City has two distinct downtowns: the Harrison Avenue historic district and historic St. Andrews. Both neighborhoods suffered equal devastation five years ago and are now vibrant hubs of Panama City. They each have bustling Saturday farmers markets and main streets dotted with antique stores, coffee shops and restaurants. Elliott likens it to having two scoops of ice cream on the same cone—each has a distinct flavor but shares the same foundation.
— Allan Branch
As Elliott says, people want to visit a place where locals like to live. The storm, though tragic, unleashed a surprise surge, one of creativity and culture that continues to inspire residents like Branch, Thompson and himself to build the once small town into the big-idea incubator they’ve dreamed about since they were children. Now younger generations, like Elliott’s daughter, want to settle down here. Branch’s teenagers frequent places like The Portal to enjoy a day of gaming, and young families walk their dogs, meet for coffee and stroll the streets.
“I want to live here for the rest of my life. I want this to be a town my daughter is proud to live in, and I want this to be a town I’m proud to show my friends around. And we’re building toward that every day,” Elliott said.
Barb Hansen has owned boats, sold boats, chartered boats, been frustrated by boats and deeply loved boats alongside her husband, Vic, pretty much every day for the past four decades. She has spent more time than most people thinking about why a private boating experience can make such a memorable impression. As the owner of Southwest Florida Yachts just inside Glover Bight in Cape Coral, Hansen has seen countless people learn to sail, operate a powerboat or just head out with a captain for a long weekend of relaxation on the water. The unbridled joy that so many of these people describe, she says, boils down to the authenticity that a boating experience offers: “It’s like Disney, but it’s cheaper, and it’s the real world. It’s not trained dolphins. It’s the real thing.”
Travel adventures aboard all types of vessels in Florida and the neighboring islands of the Bahamas are endless, and the possible itineraries to explore are as varied as the styles of the boats themselves, from luxurious and fast to simple and slow. In some cases, no prior boating experience is required. In other cases, a boating resume is a must—with quite a few qualified educators around the Sunshine State ready to help anyone who wants to learn. The Chapman School of Seamanship in Stuart offers recreational classes for everything from boating essentials and powerboat handling to Bahamas crossing insights. The American Sailing Association lists more than three dozen locations where people can learn to handle a helm all around the state.
And, in many cases, Florida’s boating adventures can be booked in some of the most pristine waters on the planet.
It’s private. It’s quiet. It’s peaceful under the stars. It’s no noise, no nothing.
Kimber Tracy
“All the waters of the Florida Keys are national marine sanctuaries,” says Kimber Tracy, owner of Florida Yachts Charters in Key West. “Most Americans don’t have a clue that this is in their backyard, and they don’t even need a passport.”
Here’s a look at a few of the best on-water experiences that are available aboard different kinds of boats at varying price points in Florida and the Bahamas.
The Florida Keys, at the far south of the state, are home to the third-largest barrier reef in the world. All of that coral makes for great fishing, snorkeling and some truly outstanding boat-
Nestled between the reef and the islands of the Florida Keys is Hawk Channel, which runs from Biscayne National Park all the way south to Key West. This channel creates an oasis where boaters can cruise in calm, protected waters, even if Mother Nature is kicking things up to a steady spin cycle out beyond the reef in less-protected waters.
chartered yacht.
“The difference between the BVI is that it has 1,500 charter boats, and you have to fight for a mooring ball and be up at 6 a.m. to get it. Here, there might be two or three other boats, maybe. It’s private. It’s quiet. It’s peaceful under the stars. It’s no noise, no nothing.”
Tracy was born and raised on Oahu, Hawaii, where her sailor parents had her on boats at age 7. Surfing and scuba diving followed, along with sailing expeditions in faraway places like the Baltic Sea, the Seychelles and Alaska’s Inside Passage. As the owner of Florida Yachts Charters, Tracy is a franchise partner of The Moorings, a global boat-charter company that uses her business to fulfill its bookings for bareboats out of Key West. The term bareboat can be confusing to people thinking about booking a nautical vacation for the first time because the word sounds like it means a stripped-down vessel, but that’s not the case. The boat itself can be filled with flashy amenities, but the difference is a bareboat has no crew or captain. The opposite is called a captained boat or fully crewed boat. In short, you are your own captain, crew and chef when you book a bareboat.
Island in the Florida Keys, is home to 38- and 44-foot Jeanneau monohull sailboats that offer classic sailing experiences such as raising the mainsail and feeling the boat heel over when it picks up a brisk breeze, as well as 40-, 42- and 46-foot sailing catamarans built by Fountaine Pajot, Lagoon, Leopard and Bali that stay flatter to the water (no heeling over for the more timid sailors) while letting guests spread out and relax across bigger outdoor deck areas.
Aboard those boats, guests can watch the sun set from a cozy settee as the captain drops anchor in a private cove. Or charterers can stand at the helm themselves, check the weather report and charts and then set a waypoint for whatever destination they please just over the horizon. Kids can get in on the fun, too, learning the basics of tying off lines to a cleat at the dock or figuring out how to peer through the water to spot coral heads and shoals.
Florida Yachts Charters offers bareboat, captained and crewed charters, as well as private liveaboard educational courses. The base is an American Sailing Association school,
which means the certifications students earn will be accepted at most other boating locations worldwide.
“Usually, people who want to learn to sail are doing it because they want to start bareboat chartering,” Tracy says.
Sailors who want to try their hand manning a bareboat without a captain need to meet a high standard of experience in the Florida Keys, she adds, because the destination necessitates a lot of anchoring out. It’s different from locations where boaters can tie up at a marina slip or hook up a line to a pre-positioned mooring ball in most of the harbors. In the Florida Keys, you have to be able to anchor in conditions that can be challenging. Even people who have owned boats their entire lives, or who have chartered extensively in other locations, can still lack the requisite experience to book a bareboat in the Keys.
“Probably 50% of the people who apply for bareboat charter captain are not qualified,” she says. “The general qualifications are that you have sailing certifications from a known body: ASA, US Sailing, RYA (the Royal Yachting Association in the United Kingdom). We want to see that you have learned to sail. We would also like to see previous bareboat charter experience. You have to have sufficient and up-to-date experience on boats of a similar size and type. If you’ve only sailed monohulls, we’re not going to give you a catamaran.”
Pricing for a week of bareboating starts at about $5,900 a week for the monohull sailboats and about $5,450 a week for the sailing catamarans. “If somebody wants to do a captained charter for just the weekend, we do that, too,” she says.
This page: Cruise the Florida Keys on the Moorings’s 4000 Catamaran.Where can they go? She says to the west of Key West is the region’s wild side with no services of any kind: no fuel, no water, no restaurants, just uninhabited, nature-preserve islands. “It’s beautiful with the beaches, the turtle preserves and the bird preserves,” Tracy says. “You anchor out and take the dinghy to the beach and just enjoy being in nature. Just a six-hour sail
to uncrowded spots that are the antithesis of prepackaged typical tourist experiences.
“These are wild beaches,” Tracy says. “There’s not some machine out there cleaning up the seaweed on the sand every day. This is nature. That’s the thing that’s so beautiful about it—and it’s not all covered with people.”
It opens up a whole other world of vacation options versus the same old thing.
Barb Hansen
from Key West, you’re off the grid with no cell service. The stars are outrageous because there’s no ambient light.”
To the east of Key West, she says, is more civilized, with cell service, restaurants and cities such as Marathon, which has The Turtle Hospital and the Dolphin Research Center as available activities ashore.
“You have Looe Key and Sombrero Key, and they’re arguably the best snorkeling sites in the Keys. Woman Key is probably one of the best beaches in the Caribbean. There’s a dolphin playground, and you can snorkel,” Tracy says.
The team at Florida Yachts Charters prides itself on being able to direct boaters to places the locals like to go, especially
Hurricane Ian’s cleanup continues in Southwest Florida, where the Category 5 storm wrecked an enormous number of boats and waterfront businesses. Southwest Florida Yachts was among them; Hansen says the 15-foot storm surge at the marina left all the charter and instructional boats from her fleet in a snarling pile of destruction.
But it’s hard to keep a good charter company down. While Southwest Florida Yachts has been accepting reservations
This page clockwise: No need to sacrifice comfort in the salon to enjoy panoramic views on Golden Ours; No Matter What, Sanlorenzo SX88 superyacht is stocked with Jet Skis, paddleboards, tubes and a 27-foot tender; enjoy the spoils with a full crew and personal chef aboard No Matter What.
since October 2023, the business won’t fully reopen with charters and classes until March 2024. It’s restarting with three motor yachts available for bookings—a Fountaine Pajot MY4.S, a Fairline Phantom 46 and a Silverton 43, which are considered midrange motor yachts in the wide, wide world of boats. These motor yachts, more like cozy floating cottages, are not as glamorous as bigger luxury yachts, but offer a surprising amount of creature comforts and certainly far more comforts than the smaller, open powerboats that most people grow up messing about on. Midrange motor yachts have enclosed spaces with seating and dining out of the weather, true beds and bathrooms for a good night’s sleep and galleys with the kind of appliances you’d find in just about any well-appointed Airbnb ashore with a kitchen. Hansen says she plans to start with these three motor yachts, and then add more boats of various kinds back into the fleet as they become available for cruising around Sanibel, Captiva, Useppa Island, Cabbage Key and Boca Grande.
“Everything is open again,” Hansen says. “Fort Myers Beach, the Pink Shell is open, Useppa, ’Tween Waters.”
Southwest Florida Yachts offers instructional classes as well as captained and bareboat charters. The charter boating experiences are limited to six people. “It’s not a tour boat,” Hansen says. “This is a private cruise where you can spend a few days to a week with a captain and dine out at the restaurants while island-hopping.”
In general, she says, it’s often a husband’s idea to book a charter. “He wants to buy a boat, and he wants to get his wife interested, so he wants it to be a really, really nice time. If that’s your goal, we can do that,” Hansen says. “It’s also a great area for families. Kids can fish, learn about history and learn about boats. The captain will teach them as much as they want to learn if they’re little sponges. They can put down the video games and be in the real world.”
Depending on the boat, Hansen says, she estimates that it costs about $4,000 to $8,000 per week for all six people, not including meals, gratuity or the $250-per-day fee for a captain.
“Our thing is that we’re very personal,” she says. “We have a cruising concierge service. We ask what they like, what do they not like. Do they want to be at the beach, go to upscale
restaurants, go to casual restaurants? We can tailor the float plans around what they want to do.”
A float plan is another way of describing a boat’s itinerary. It can be a two-day plan, a two-week plan, a two-month plan or more, and it can be changed along the way.
For instance, perhaps the initial idea is to stay at marinas with only one or two nights anchored out on the hook. If the clients decide they love the privacy of anchoring out and want to do it every night, then the float plan can be changed to add more of that experience. By contrast, maybe the clients realize they love to be out having fun in the sun all day, but prefer to relax on shore at night at casual restaurants with live music and dancing. That client would want a completely different float plan than the privacy-seekers who point the bow toward quiet anchorages. Whatever the preferences are, the float plan can be built to accommodate them.
And with the instructional charters, Hansen adds, the bonus at the end is that graduates can learn about all kinds of destina tions that are available to boaters. Often, charters are available in places that people cannot access any other way, in regions of
Southwest Florida Yachts want to learn more about a particular type of boat than they can figure out just walking through it at a boat show. She also sees more than a few boat owners signing up for classes so they can develop better skills behind their own helm.
“The first thing they do when they get to Florida is buy a house on the water, and then they buy a boat. They think it’s like driving a car, but it’s not,” she says. “We take people from knowing nothing to being cruisers. This doesn’t teach you everything you need to know about boating; this is your first step. This gets you moving toward that goal.”
If you have a bit more cash in the vacation fund—OK, maybe more than a bit—then another option is a crewed luxury yacht charter. This segment of the marine marketplace starts with yachts around 80 feet long and weekly base rates around $55,000 for eight guests, and it goes all the way up to billionaires’ superyachts that charter for more than $1 million per week.
Yes, it’s a big jump in price from some other options for a boating vacation, but a charter party of guests can be couples or families who share the cost, making this kind of top-level
he offers are providing top-notch amenities and services that can compete on a global scale. “The crew is looking after your needs. It’s not just a for-hire captain. They’re going to pay attention to the tiniest details. You have a culinary-trained chef preparing your meals. The captain has knowledge of the cruising areas and local contacts to enhance your experience.”
A few of the offerings in Shaffer’s fleet are considered entrylevel luxury charter yachts. While they may get regular maintenance in South Florida, the base for charters in the Bahamas. It’s much easier and more comfortable for clients to fly to meet the yacht in Nassau or Bimini, and begin a charter there, instead of cruising with the crew across the Gulf Stream, which can get rough.
This approach is particularly advantageous when considering vessels in Shaffer’s fleet like the 86-foot Golden Ours, a Sunseeker motor yacht that charters with eight guests and three crew members. Its weekly base rate is $55,000. In the luxury crewed marketplace, the term base rate means only the yacht and crew. Food, drinks, fuel, gratuity and other expenses can add 25% or more to the listed base rate, depending on how the charter party chooses to use the yacht.
Guests fill out what’s known as preference sheets prior to the charter, and the chef stocks the galley with exactly the types of foods and drinks the clients want. Menus are prepared in keeping with everyone’s personal tastes and dietetic needs. Everything from spa cuisine to vegan and classic French are among the options. Pretty much anything goes as long as the chefs have advance notice so they can provision the galley accordingly.
You’re getting a $150,000 crew experience on an 86-foot yacht.Jeff Shaffer
experience achievable for a larger number of people.
And, there’s the proverbial reality that you do get what you pay for. On many of these yachts, the crew are liveaboard teams who have honed the guest experience in ways that rival fivestar, big-city hotels.
“This is a luxury yacht,” says Jeff Shaffer, charter management director at Superyacht Sales and Charter in Fort Lauderdale. Shaffer has spent years traveling the world to see and inspect yachts in the Mediterranean, the Caribbean and more, all with an eye toward making sure the boat and crew
What else do charter clients get for this kind of coin? Amenities such as king- and queen-size beds, ensuite bathrooms, luxe woods, marbles and fabrics in the decor, high-tech audiovisual systems, and all kinds of tenders and toys that the crew can teach guests of all ages to use. Fishing? Sure. Snorkeling? Absolutely. Want to give stand-up paddleboarding a try? No problem at all. The board will be in the water and waiting off the yacht’s swim platform with a member of the crew standing by to help.
“One thing that’s really great about Golden Ours is that Capt. Jamie and his wife, Sarah, she’s our chef, come from a larger-yacht mentality,” Shaffer says. “They’ve worked on yachts over
Right: The No Matter What, Sanlorenzo SX88 accommodates up to eight guests.
150 feet long, but they wanted to be on a yacht the size of Golden Ours. They take things up a notch. You’re getting a $150,000 crew experience on an 86-foot yacht.”
The yachts that Sunseeker builds are known not only for their high-quality amenities but also for their impressive speed. Golden Ours lists a cruising speed of 20 knots, which gets the charter guests from point A to point B much faster than, say, a sailboat that can only hit about 8 to 10 knots in a stiff breeze.
Other luxury yachts are best known for their design. As an example, two of the yachts in Shaffer’s fleet are newer models from Ocean Alexander, which has been making a push toward building yachts with enormous windows in the primary guest areas. In some of the onboard spaces with yachts like the 88-foot Almost Done (weekly base rate: $85,000 for 10 guests with four crew members including a chef), the windows go almost from the floor to the ceiling in spaces like the main salon.
Imagine that view when the yacht is anchored all by itself in a harbor with pristine aquamarine waters, sandy white beaches and wildlife all around.
“It’s like bringing the whole outside in,” Shaffer says, “and they have balconies.”
He means foldout balconies, as in a piece of the yacht’s side folds right out of the hull and creates a platform with a safety rail where guests can sit and have a cocktail, read a book or simply enjoy the view. These balconies allow for such a unique and private experience, they have become staples aboard much larger yachts that A-list celebrities and titans of industry charter from St. Bart’s to St. Tropez.
The indulgent ways to pass the time onboard are endless. Relax with a glass of champagne in the sundeck hot tub. Enjoy an ocean breeze while lounging on a sun pad up front at the yacht’s bow. Or choose from an armada of water toys at your disposal off the swim platform back aft. In Shaffer’s fleet, one toybox extraordinaire is aboard the 88-foot No Matter What (weekly base rate: $85,000 for eight guests with four crew members). It’s a yacht that charters with a 27-foot tender plus a smaller jet tender, a surfboard, tow toys such as floats and wakeboards, stand-up personal watercraft, sit-down personal watercraft, bicycles and more.
“That boat’s loaded with water toys,” Shaffer says of the superyacht. “It’s insane.”
When asked how he sums up a luxury crewed charter for anyone new to this type of vacation, Shaffer offered just two words that say it all: “Pamper yourself.”
EXPLORE THE BOUNTY OF CENTR AL FLORIDA
grown 10 minutes away.
Traveled 150 miles to enjoy this meal.
LOCAL FLAVOR LIVES HERE.
What’s more “local” than enjoying a meal made with ingredients sourced from just up the road? We welcome hungry people from anywhere and everywhere to pull up a seat and find out just how delicious Central Florida truly is. Because at our table, everyone is a local! Learn more about the local food scene at VisitCentralFlorida.com
Though I’ve lived in Florida my entire life, it wasn’t until I read a Flamingo article in Fall 2020 that I learned of the Cassadaga Spiritualist Camp, a century-old community in Cassadaga, Florida. It’s recognized as the Psychic Capital of the World. I yearned to see a place with intrigue, mystique and spirituality of an otherworldly flavor, which is my favorite taste.
I was about 10 when I realized I viewed the world differently than others. I had no idea how to verbalize my unusual visions and premonitions, not to mention the moment I realized one of my premonitions came true.
At the parochial school I attended, the word clairvoyant was not in my vocabulary and was never discussed between the Irish Catholic nuns and me. Purgatory was their
favorite word. And they were mighty convincing that’s where I’d go if I neglected The Lord’s Prayer, Hail Mary (times 10) and my Act of Contrition before bedtime. Purgatory clung to me evermore.
When I married Boone, my late husband, he was a full-throttle Episcopalian. So I left the Catholic Church and joined his faith. When he died, I left that faith and became
a Methodist. Seeing it now in writing seems like I switched hair salons, not religions. In my defense, I had good reasons. It was always to make another person happy.
To this day, I have no way of knowing if Sister Conception was right. So to be safe, my prayer rituals have continued, minus the rosary beads. I don’t want to take a chance and end up anywhere near purgatory.
It was after I read the story of Cassadaga that I decided to take my friend Gayle to the community for her birthday. Gayle, who had been married to her late husband Spider Webb (I swear that was his real name) for almost 50 years, longed to reconnect with him. He had passed away three years earlier.
“He doesn’t ever come to me. Why can’t I see him?” she asked.
“Well, I think he’s ghosted you. Maybe because your vessel for connection is closed,” I said with authority.
“How ‘bout we go to Cassadaga so you can connect—a birthday gift from me.” I beamed with pride. Seriously, what better gift could a friend give than a date with their departed loved one, even if it was only spiritually? Grief is a bully, and I hate bullies. I felt psyched to intervene on her behalf and she’d been my best friend for over 50 years. Plus, I knew all about burying a husband.
Gayle’s son refers to us as Grace and Frankie—from the television sitcom. Make no mistake, I’m Frankie, with my bohemian flair and unfiltered tongue. She is a spit-shined Grace, with her penchant for Methodist pragmatism.
“Will you do it with me?” she asked.
“Heck yeah, are you kidding?” I said. And that was that … except it wasn’t.
I’d done my research and collected a fivestar testimonial from a friend who’d had a life-changing session at the Cassadaga camp with Margarita, a renowned medium. So,
with a twinkle in my eye and skepticism in hers, Gayle and I embarked on our journey to the other side of not only the state, but also the ethereal realm where mediums, tarot readers and spiritual enthusiasts congregated. I signed each of us up for a 45-minute session, a cash-only transaction that would be payable when we arrived.
We adopted pseudonyms so Margarita wouldn’t know anything about us in advance. I would be Charlotte and Gayle would be Sharon.
I don’t worry about purgatory so much anymore. My premonitions just don’t show me going there.
I’ve faced my fair share of challenges and delights, but nothing could prepare me for what awaited in Cassadaga, a secluded town which sprawls with streets bearing names like Mediumship Way and Spiritualist Street.
The Hotel Cassadaga was front and center. The windows appeared to have seen better days with their faded lace curtains hinting at a forgotten elegance. Locals whispered tales of ghostly apparitions and unexplained phenomena, daring only the bravest guests to stay the night. That wasn’t us—there was no way we were staying there.
I volunteered to speak with the medium first lest Gayle back out. I left her in the hotel lobby and walked the sidewalk along
Mediumship Way toward the house with the purple door. I was early and found a bench on the front lawn of the dated house and waited. The afternoon sun shone down from the cerulean blue skies as I pondered my thoughts and fears. I heard the front door open five minutes later.
“Charlotte, please come in,” she said. I momentarily forgot I’d made up the name and climbed the front steps to greet her. Inside revealed encased jalousie windows that surrounded the enclosed porch, like my own childhood home.
To be honest, she looked nothing like I expected. There was no flowing robe or feathered scarf. Instead, she wore a navy pantsuit and silk blouse. A pearl necklace hung loosely around the wrinkled neck of the mid-70-year-old woman.
“I see books,” she said as she walked toward a chair, her back to me. I was Charlotte with no last name, how could she know about my books. Stupefied, I sat opposite of her in a well-worn chair. “So, what brings you?” she asked.
“Umm … a friend,” I stammered.
“I see. Shall we start?” She looked upward. I squirmed in my chair and willed myself to be quiet, which is not easy for me.
She opened her eyes and investigated mine. “I sense a presence in the room, someone close to you, a man.” I was thinking she was off to a predictably vague start. But then, with a sudden intensity, she continued, “He’s meticulously dressed and handsome, blondish, organizing and straightening something in front of him … would that be someone you know?” I almost fainted … literally.
“B-B-Boone, my h-h-husband,” I stuttered. She was eerily specific, as Boone was OCD and liked everything in order. He dressed in Brooks Brothers-type clothing as an environmental attorney.
“He wants you to know he’s so proud of you,” she whispered. I stared at her,
speechless. She revealed more details, each sending a shiver down my spine.
“A colonel. Do you know one?”
“No,” I replied. She missed! I thought. She closed her eyes again, looked up and back down at me.
“Someone with a big grin and white, white teeth is repeating the word colonel, saluting. Could that mean anything?”
I was in “The Twilight Zone,” I had to be. “Is he a man of color?” I asked. She nodded yes. “It’s Duhart, my husband’s caregiver. He lived with us until the end. He called Boone ‘colonel,’ after he learned that my daughters’ friends created that nickname from his strict fathering.”
“Well, he is standing next to your husband, saluting.” I wiped away my tear.
She barely inhaled and continued. “A woman is coming through who looks much like you but with darker hair and is saying you are doing too much.”
“No way!” I said way too loud. As God is my witness, those were my mother’s exact words every time we talked. In a mixture of awe and disbelief, I questioned her, “How on Earth can you know this? And don’t tell me it’s the spirits. This is uncanny!”
Margarita smiled mysteriously. “Spirits have a way of revealing what needs to be known.” Her eyes took on a distant gaze. “I see a larger woman with an oversized heart holding a bible.” Margarita lifted both hands and figuratively made the shape of a large heart in front of her chest. “She says she misses you so much.”
“It’s Mazel, who always had her bible nearby and was in my life since my birth. I cared for her until her death at 98.”
“Well, she’s there now with your mother.”
I felt spent, but Margarita didn’t notice and kept on keeping on. She mentioned a tall man wearing a white coat with a stethoscope. That was my surgeon father,
who was 6 feet 4 inches, and deceased for over three decades. Frankly, the woman had me at Boone, but the other loved souls she mentioned sealed the deal. Margarita had saved the best for last. Or, maybe the worst, depending on how you look at it.
“You do know you have a gift, a connection to the unseen,” she said. “You’ve never massaged your uniqueness, and you must unlock the mysteries within you.”
I listened with a mix of shock and amusement at my attempt at anonymity with my fake name. I decided to share my real self and recounted what happened with my granddaughter years earlier.
I’d had a haunting vision in a dream, a premonition something was wrong with the 1-year-old’s heart. I reached out to my daughter, who listened to my goings-on reluctantly since I wouldn’t back down.
Determined to put my concerns to rest, she had her baby checked by the local pediatric cardiologist. He diagnosed a harmless heart murmur and said she would outgrow it. Time passed, but I never shook the feeling that my premonition held more weight than anyone believed. It would be months later when her symptoms—absent during the first examinations—called for further testing. They revealed a small opening in her heart, a congenital defect. The cardiologist recommended they repair the small hole, and open-heart surgery followed.
During the procedure, they discovered she had not just one, but three holes in her heart. Her surgery was successful, and she is now 17 years old and perfectly healthy.
The experience transformed my thinking from doubtful to an unwavering conviction to pay attention to the premonitions, even the weirdest of them. I told Margarita about other events, equally extraordinary. When I finished running my mouth, it was bone-dry and my 45 minutes were up.
Margarita leaned forward and, in a strained whisper, said, “I’ve been doing this
for over 30 years and have never met anyone like you. You’re a rare soul, with a direct line to the spirits, a channeler with past lives. You should take channeling and embrace your unique gift.”
I pictured myself telling my husband, daughters and friends I wanted to be a channeler or medium. Nope, no can do! Margarita interrupted my thoughts. “I see you have grown wings from tragedy.” I swallowed her unfathomable statement of truth and tried to digest it.
After that, I bid her goodbye. Spider didn’t show up for Gayle that day, despite being the very reason we went to Cassadaga.
“I just know he will come next time. Maybe he was just too busy,” I said to console her. Spider was always busy, so I hoped my rationale soothed her.
Let’s just say I don’t worry about purgatory so much anymore. My premonitions just don’t show me going there. I should be safer than safe in my final resting place, what with the myriad of religions I’ve collected all these years: a Catholic roux, with a dash of Episcopalian, a dollop of Methodist, a sprinkle of Buddhism and heavily (or is it heavenly) finished off with a huge gob of spiritualism.
As I tread the winding path of spirituality, I’ve learned that spirituality is like a fine recipe with a wide assortment of flavors, and the taste is as unique as the one savoring it. As Buddha wisely noted, “In the end, only three things matter: how much you loved, how gently you lived and how gracefully you let go of things not meant for you.”
Prissy Elrod is a professional speaker, artist and humorist, and the author of “Far Outside the Ordinary.” She was born and raised in Lake City and now lives in Tallahassee with her husband, Dale. She has authored two nonfiction books: “Far Outside the Ordinary” and “Chasing Ordinary,” the sequel.
— favorites, flings & Finer things —
grove stand
A star Filipina chef goes undercover in Miami.
— DESIGN DISTRICT —
The power couple putting their mark on Winter Park
—
BIRD’S-EYE VIEW —
Blue Jays and lovebirds find the perfect place to roost.
—
FLORIDA WILD —
Why it’s time to go with the flow in the Everglades
— THE TIDE —
Race on over to discover fine festivals and fresh food
— FLORIDIANA — The Orbit Lamp comes back around.
This page: A modern take on Mayfield Ave. in Winter Park, designed by Z Properties
New York restaurant darling Nicole Ponseca left the City and her culinary career behind. Now, the Filipina chef is surprising palates in South Florida.
Nicole Ponseca walks in looking very much like a rock star, wearing an oversized army surplus jacket cinched at the waist with a belt and a pair of oversized sunglasses. Every single employee in the restaurant knows her. They hug,
exchanging air kisses, hellos and miss yous.
What an entrance. Like Ponseca, the restaurant, Pastis, is an expatriate from New York. Like Ponseca, it’s glamorous, a French bistro in the middle of Miami’s trendy Wynwood neighborhood. It’s the hottest thing at the moment.
ANDREA GRIECO This page: Steam rolls off a hot skillet of pork belly sisig, a traditional Filipino dish.Ponseca joins me at a courtyard table, and I ask how everybody knows her. She looks ner vous. “I have a secret,” she says.
Ponseca was, and maybe we should say still is, a celebrity chef. She’s never had a TV show or a documentary film crew following her around. Instead, she became famous for running two successful Filipino restaurants in New York City, writing an acclaimed cook book and attempting to make Filipino food as popular as any other. Recently, she stepped off that track. You could say she blew up her life. She moved to Miami … and then there’s that secret.
Ponseca grew up a military brat in San Diego. Her parents emigrated from the Philippines and her father became a cook in the Navy. He’d be deployed for months at a time, and when he’d come back, Ponseca would glue herself to him, watching him shave or tag along on errands, anything just to be close. Often, they’d cook together. Not just three meals a day but they’d also create elab orate snacks, too. Ponseca liked to indulge in a steak sandwich with bacon and horseradish mayonnaise on a baguette. She’d have that at 3 in the afternoon most days. “Our together time was so valued to me,” she says.
Then came the teen age years, and Ponseca remembers pleading with her father to just be normal. Like most Filipinos, her father would eat with his hands, bring ing a bowl just below his chin to scoop up rice with his cupped fingers. When her friends would come over, she’d beg him to order pizza or fried chicken, “anything that made sense” to be eaten She hated the idea that her American friends at school would think she was different. “The way to process that was to cover it up, shame,
dismiss it, disassociate,” she says.
After receiving a business management degree from the University of San Francisco, she dreamed of working on Madison Avenue. She had $75 when she got to the city in 1998, living at first in a room in a Harlem convent, just her and the nuns.
Ponseca spent nine years in advertising, even rising to a VP position, all the while knowing that it wasn’t right for her. What drove that home was realizing the underlying racism that existed in ads: white models for the mainstream publications, Black models for the Black publications—and Asian models in none of them. “I would lie in bed at night listening to Mariah Carey, bawling my eyes out and knowing I was supposed to be doing something with purpose,” she says.
Wondering if that something else was the restaurant industry, she took a job at night washing dishes. By day, she was an advertising exec. By night, she was scraping pots. She quit advertising in 2007 and, figuring she had found her new career, took a job as a restaurant GM at Juliette in Brooklyn.
About then, she started to think about how Filipino food is underrepresented in America, even in the melting pot of New York City. Ponseca knew that the dishes were approachable, deeply flavored, ideal for the same mass appeal as say Chinese or Indian. Perhaps the best example of that is the country’s unofficial dish of adobo: chicken and pork reverse seared in a sauce consisting of soy, jam and garlic (her take). And yet Ponseca would notice how Filipino restaurants in America so often failed. She started taking stock of them, keeping notebooks filled with observations of why: lame ambience, most often, or failing to help newcomers understand the cuisine. For the next four years, her days off were spent testing Filipino recipes. And crafting a plan.
At first, she considered dumbing down recipes
ANDREA GRIECO, DEAN SADLERThis page:
Serves 2
1 pound raw tiger shrimp, peeled and deveined and cut in half lengthwise
3/4 cup white sugarcane vinegar
2 tablespoons minced shallot
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1/4 cup peeled and diced cucumber
1 thinly sliced bird’s-eye chile
3/4 cup coconut milk
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon calamansi juice (lime juice in a pinch)
2 pinches of ground white pepper
2 tablespoons torn fresh cilantro leaves
PREPARATION: Add the shrimp to a bowl, cover with vinegar and let it sit at room temperature for 20 minutes. In a bowl, combine the shallot, ginger, cucumber, chile and coconut milk. Remove the shrimp from its marinade with a slotted spoon. Add the coconut milk mixture to the marinade and mix until it forms a rough emulsion. Return the shrimp back to the bowl. Add the fish sauce, calamansi juice and white pepper and toss together. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Garnish with cilantro, and serve immediately or within an hour.
to appeal to a wider audience. “I would think, ‘Are white people going to like it?’ It was little microaggressions against myself,” she says. Instead, she decided that her place would be traditional, right down to serving balut, a Filipino dish consisting of a fertilized bird egg that’s partially developed. A challenge for Westerners? Yeah, and she embraced it.
It started as a pop-up in 2011 with Maharlika, and by the third weekend, she had three-hour waits for a table. Nine months later, she added a second restaurant, Jeepney, and then a fast-casual Filipino noodles and barbecue concept called Tita Baby’s Panciteria, in Brooklyn.
At Jeepney, her employees would yell “Balut!” any time someone ordered one, which was often. She called it Jeepney after the colorful repurposed army jeeps used as public transport
in the Philippines. Reservations soon filled up months in advance. Fame followed, with articles in The New York Times and Washington Post. And she co-wrote a book, “I Am a Filipino: And This Is How We Cook,” which was a 2019 James Beard Award finalist.
It all lasted 10 years. Then there was a moment, as she struggled through COVID-19 restrictions, when she realized running a restaurant these days is about building an online persona, about pleasing DoorDash, about dishes being Instagramworthy, about everything but cooking. She says, “I didn’t want to follow rules that I didn’t make.”
“Hello! A couple of days? I had never mourned before. I had no idea. I was on the floor sobbing.” She found someone to run the food hall stand for a year while she figured out what was next. And then comes the secret life she’s been living.
— LOCATION — 1-800-LUCKY FOOD HALL
143 N.W. 23RD ST., MIAMI
— HOURS —
MON.–WED. 12 P.M.–1 A.M.
THURS.–SUN. 12 P.M.–3 A.M. 305- 768-9826
She walked away from it all in 2021, eventually closing her New York restaurants and renting an apartment in Wynwood. She ended up opening a Jeepney stall in the 1-800-Lucky food hall as a starting point for her new city. Then she got a call. Her dad was being rushed to the hospital. He couldn’t breathe. It was COVID. He was 77.
1800lucky.com
Wondering if she was still interested in the restaurant industry, she applied for a job at Pastis. Not as a chef, not as a GM, but as the receptionist, handling phone calls for hard-to-get reservations. Nobody knew who she was, this famous restaurant owner and author from New York. In the hierarchy of the restaurant, she was now at the bottom—until a coworker recognized her one day. He brought in a copy of her book and asked her to sign it. One of the managers asked incredulously, “Who are you?”
By then, nine months into her undercover life as a receptionist, Ponseca had already been thinking about getting back on track. She quit Pastis and took back her food hall spot. At that point, Jeepney was just limping along.
who’d never had Filipino food. She’d stop by tables and offer to refund anything they didn’t like and replace it with something else. She brought in a new management team and hired a crew to help scale it up. The day we met, about a year since taking it back over, she had solidly turned the business around. These days, she’s looking for what’s next. It’ll be Filipino. Traditional but also casual and fun. Maybe the first of many. Maybe the start of putting one everywhere, of finally making Filipino food famous.
First, she’ll be doing a series of kamayan pop-up dinners around Miami, served family style on banana leaves. There will be no silverware. Like Ponseca’s father, everyone will be eating with their hands.
Overall, though, she’s looking for how she can influence everything—and she doesn’t mean the internet. Ponseca says, “I know there’s something out there for me to capsize. As a woman, an entrepreneur and a person of color. That’s. Fucking. Dope.”
Ponseca called the food hall and said she’d need a couple of days to mourn. She says,
She spent months working on the recipes, adding and subtracting things and making sure her staff was explaining the dishes to people
Recipes are excerpted from “I Am a Filipino: And This Is How We Cook” by Nicole Ponseca and Miguel Trinidad (Artisan Books, 2018).
While driving around Winter Park or the surrounding Central Florida neighborhoods, you might encounter a bright orange Z staked in front of a house or an empty lot with no other words accompanying it, just a phone number underneath. If you know Zane or Emily Williams, the team behind Z Properties, there couldn’t be a more appropriate sign for their company: their work, like the orange Z, is meant to catch your attention.
“If you’re looking for someone who wants to do things a little bit differently and push the envelope—and maybe not give you exactly what you’re certain you want—we’re your people,” Emily explains of their slightly unorthodox approach to design. After all, how many people would imagine building and designing a home with no halls or extra space?
Let’s actually design a space that you’re going to use and is going to grow with you.
—EMILY WILLIAMS
others were doing.”
Both Zane and Emily hail from Winter Park, and they actually knew each other growing up. However, it wasn’t until 2008 that they reconnected, later married and then had their son. In 2012, while Zane was busy as an independent contractor and Emily was opening The Grove, a local women’s boutique, the couple renovated their condo along with another one in the same building.
That’s exactly what they did on Winter Park’s Sylvan Drive in 2017, and it was thanks to that build that Z Properties evolved into one of the buzziest firms in the area. The over 3,500-square-
foot house was anything but traditional: Its Mediterranean-meets-modern feel paired with an efficient floor plan (every space in it is a room) along with two detached guest houses and a sprawling courtyard stood out from other Winter Park homes.
“The symmetry of it is something that caught people’s attention,” says Emily. “Plus, the interiors were really fantastic and colorful, which was very different from what
“We entered them both into the Parade of Homes (showcase). That was a very pivotal moment—it was the first thing we ever put out there,” says Emily. Without losing old architectural features like the original fireplace and curved ceilings, the space had a striking color palette and a reformatted layout which took full advantage of its lake views, making it one of the highlights of the showcase. Soon after, the Williamses officially launched Z Properties as a full-service design-build firm with Zane helming the construction and design aspect and Emily handling the interiors. “At the time, we were still doing smaller things, and we were still a little scrappy,” says Emily. Then, once the house on Sylvan Drive debuted five years later, along with
a handful of other homes, their project list ramped up. “People really started to come to us saying, ‘I love what you guys are putting out there. I want to recreate this,’” she continues.
Don’t expect Z Properties to just cycle through similar floor plans or a Rolodex of tried-andtrue light fixtures; every one of their builds is completely unique, whether it’s a renovation or new construction.
with you,’” Emily explains of the couple’s design ethos.
—LOCATION—
—PHONE—
zpropertiesinc.com
“Our clients come to us saying, ‘I need this’ or ‘I need that.’ We like to sit people down and say, ‘I think those are things that you want, but let’s actually design a space that
For example, they recently worked with a couple moving from Atlanta to Florida who told them they were bringing all their furniture with them and didn’t need interior design help. Emily presented a few ideas, and before long, Z Properties reimagined almost every room in the house from scratch. “It was just such a delight to see them be like, ‘Oh my God, we do have to start over.’ They didn’t have to, but they were so excited to realize that since they were building this house in Florida, it should feel
“We want everyone to feel good in every space of their home,” she continues. “That’s what makes our approach special versus doing the same thing over and over again.”
Focusing on unexpected moments, like disguising doorways as beautifully molded wall panels to tiling a bathroom counter bright pink, is what the Williams’s ethos is all about. They also lean into their Florida surroundings by embracing natural light, utilizing outdoor space and greenery in innovative ways and with playful interiors, whether it’s blue kitchen cabinets, pink tile counters or punchy floral wallpaper.
“It’s always interesting to me that a lot of people will come in and say, ‘No, No, No, I don’t like color,’” Emily says. “But then I’ll say, ‘But look at what you have on, you’re not dressed in beige and gray.’ I always think of a home as an extension of yourself because people tend to wear things that make them feel good.”
And at the end of the day, that’s the Williams’s goal for Z Properties: to create a space where you’ll walk into each room, love it and, of course, feel good.
We want everyone to feel good in every space of their home.
—EMILY WILLIAMS
Find Baseball, biking and black pearls in This seaside town (pronounced Dun-Eden).
Shop small and score big at this womanowned boutique. Find customizable handmade beaded tote bags, upcycled designer wallets or a prosecco pong set, beer pong’s classier cousin.
966 Douglas Ave.
Jazz echoes through the halls of the Grand Lady of Dunedin. Once Pinellas County’s first radio station in the 1920s, this Mediterranean Revival-style boutique hotel has 83 rooms, a rooftop bar and complimentary bikes.
453 Edgewater Drive
Though this four-mile stretch of barrier island is no longer a vacation destination for lovebirds, it’s now a hot spot for winged creatures like godwits, terns and flamingos, making it a birdwatcher’s dream.
1 Causeway Blvd.
Grab a beer at Florida’s oldest microbrewery. Tapping their first keg in 1996, these homebrewers-turned-hops-history-makers offer signature pours like the Razzbeery wheat ale and Beach Tale brown ale.
937 Douglas Ave.
Welcome to Dogedin, where pups are pampered and tails wag on every street. Outside of Skip’s Bar, more than 1,000 pets were painted to raise money for a local animal welfare nonprofit, making for a great photo-op with your furry friends.
371 Main St.
Spanning 46 miles from Trinity to St. Petersburg and cutting straight through Main Street, this paved trail is a must for joggers, walkers and bicyclists looking for a dose of fresh air and sunshine. 351 Main St.
Come in and pull up a seat at this comfy and eclectic eatery. The menu appeals to a range of palates with items like birria tacos and peanut ginger vegan stir fry, served in the coziness of what feels like your living room. But please, keep your feet off the table. 487 Main St.
Find your next read at downtown’s indie bookstore. Meander through shelves overflowing with bestsellers, collectibles and rare books or shop for literary T-shirts, socks and novelty puzzles. 355 Main St.
Every year, the Toronto Blue Jays flock to Florida for spring training, finding their roost in the Tampa Bay area. Catch a training game at Grant Field or cheer on the Dunedin Blue Jays minor league team in the summer.
373 Douglas Ave.
Sip on a cup of Krö Joe on the front porch, and wave hello to neighbors walking by. This intimate coffee house serves specialty pastries and artisan blends like the Love Dunedin Latte, a surprising combination of chocolate and orange. 472 Wood St.
11. LUCKY LOBSTER CO.
Wanting to bring the taste of New England to the sunny South, the Moran family opened this seafood staple in 2016. Using only the freshest ingredients, they craft plates like prosciutto-wrapped scallops, lobster pot pie and a classic lobster roll. 941 Huntley Ave.
12. KAFE RACER
Owned by a former Belgian race car driver turned cycling enthusiast, this Pinellas Trail staple is part coffee house, part pub and part bicycle shop, making it the perfect place to slow down with friends or speed up for a long-haul ride. 998 Douglas Ave.
Pack your produce bags for Pioneer Park’s farmers market, open every Friday (Nov.–May) and Saturday (year round). Peruse the stalls offering locally grown succulents, fruits and vegetables, handmade goods, a buildyour-own-bouquet flower cart and more. 420 Main St.
14.
Booking a seat at this award-winning French-American restaurant is as rare as its namesake. Just one bite of their cutslike-butter pork belly or Chilean sea bass lyonnaise will explain why their 12 tables are so heavily sought after. 315 Main St.
15.
A short ferry ride away from Honeymoon Island lies a small patch of mangrove forests and beach, inviting guests for an unplugged day of remote relaxation. Paddle, hike or just sunbathe on the sand. 1 Causeway Blvd.
Saunter over to this swanky cocktail bar for an afternoon sip and snack. Start with the Adam Would You Like a Pear?, a fruity concoction with coconut cartel and pear liqueur, and finish with a slice of warm brown butter cake. 966 Douglas Ave. Unit 101
17.
This gallery turned interactive art hub has spread beauty and culture throughout the city for almost 50 years. Learn woodworking, stone carving, welding and more at their Industrial Arts Campus, located on the edge of downtown. 958 Douglas Ave.
18.
Perfect your putt at one of the most historic golf courses in the state. Originally opened in 1927, this club was once home to the PGA of America. Now, everyday players can score a birdie on the 18-hole course designed by Donald Ross. 1050 Palm Blvd.
Ifirst met Betty Osceola in 2020 when making the film “Saving the Florida Wildlife Corridor.” Instantly I was in awe of her deep, ancestral connection to her Everglades home. Osceola is a member of the Miccosukee Tribe of Indians and an airboat captain with profound perspective. I am grateful for her willingness to share her native lands and voice with me and the world, including serving as a lead character in the National Geographic film “Path of the Panther,” now streaming on Disney+ and Hulu. The Seminole and Miccosukee are the last Native Americans living in Florida. Osceola is a name that descends from the great warrior chief Osceola, who defied colonial rule and led to the Seminoles being called “America’s only unconquered Tribe.”
— HABITAT— FLORIDA EVERGLADES
— SEASON — FALL
— TIME OF DAY — 12 P.M.
— SUBJECT — EVERGLADES RESTORATION
The day of this photo, Osceola was hosting my family on an airboat tour of Miccosukee lands and waters just north of Everglades National Park. It was a personal trip, motivated by wanting my children to experience the Everglades and meet a hero of mine. Osceola took us to visit several teardrop-shaped tree islands—patches of hardwoods that layer like steppingstones across the River of Grass. These islands once provided homes for the Miccosukee people and refuges for wildlife, from deer to panthers. While other parts of the Everglades have been drained, much of the land surrounding the tree islands has flooded. Roads, drainage canals and development have blocked and diverted the flow of Everglades water for the past century. One road in particular, the Tamiami Trail, has served as a dam blocking the flow. South of the road, Everglades National Park has been deprived of the water that once flowed seamlessly. North of the road, tribal lands have been drowning under too much water artificially held back by the road and water management practices that have prioritized flood control for densely populated areas closer to the coast. As a result, 70% of the tree islands that Osceola and her people have relied upon have been lost, along with a steep decline in available habitat for terrestrial wildlife.
The islands that remain serve as vital Miccosukee cultural sites for ceremonies and burials. After showing us one of her favorite tree islands entirely covered over by high water, Osceola pulled this cardboard sign from the bow of her airboat and waded out into the water for a portrait. A couple weeks before, she had been in the news holding up the same sign, crying out for more equitable management of Everglades water. She was asking the Army Corps of Engineers to open all the floodgates along the Tamiami Trail that were then holding back water and drowning Osceola’s ancestral lands.
Through new Everglades restoration efforts, several miles of the Tamiami Trail have been elevated into bridges to help rebalance the flow of water. But the work is not complete. More steps of the multiyear restoration plan need to be achieved, with continued investment from the United States and Florida governments, for Everglades water to flow more naturally and the ecosystem to be more restored.
ST. AUGUSTINE
Now–March 30
Troll North Florida waters for two days in search of a prize catch for a chance to win a cash prize or a 21-foot Yellowfin bay boat at the world’s largest wahoo fishing tournament. wahooshootout.com
DRESSING LOUISA
ST. AUGUSTINE
March 6–May 14
Explore the nuances of fashion through each decade of the 1800s by taking a closer look at famous boarding room proprietor Louisa Fatio’s iconic styles at the Ximenez-Fatio House Museum. ximenezfatiohouse.org
WORD OF SOUTH: A FESTIVAL OF LITERATURE & MUSIC TALLAHASSEE
April 26–28
Springtime in the capital city kicks off with this annual festival dedicated to all things books and music, including an opening-night performance by The Flaming Lips. Stop by the Flamingo stage to hear from voices and musicians straight from our pages.
May 9-12
Fish and dish at this interactive culinary weekend that brings together sport fishing and the art of cooking at the Omni Amelia Island Resort. The event kicks off with a chef’s welcome dinner to fuel guests for their turn with a rod and reel on the following day’s excursion. At sunrise, the charter boats depart from Fernandina Harbor Marina, helmed by some of the South’s most notable chefs and headed for peaceful jetties and backwaters. Everything that’s caught, from grouper and sea bass to skate and flounder, will be served on Saturday during the individual cooking competition on Magnolia Lawn. The individual contest encourages the chefs to create signature dishes out of the fresh catches they reeled in. Then the seafood stakes culminate in a Chef Showdown, an hourlong competition where chefs are divided into teams and must incorporate into their dishes a last-minute secret ingredient, which is only revealed minutes before the contest begins. The result is a gourmet, on-thefly menu for guests to feast and vote on. Arguably the freshest way to sample North Florida’s bounty, this five-star experience will leave attendees happy as clams and ready to book their spots for 2025. omnihotels.com
ALYS BEACH
May 17-18
The signature white buildings of Alys Beach transform into an explosion of movement and color as local artists project their short films and generative art across the city’s architecture. digitalgraffiti.com
May 18
This Panhandle festival is dedicated to one of the region’s biggest exports: tupelo honey. Come for the sweet delicacies, and stay for the car show, food and live entertainment. tupelohoneyfestival.com
ST. AUGUSTINE
May 25–26
Jacksonville’s JJ Grey and Mofro produce and headline this twoday music fest with artists such as Lucero, The Allman Betts Band and Anders Osborne. theamp.com
SEBRING
April 6–7
Find your next fizzy favorite from among the best in bubbly beverages. Thousands of carbonation connoisseurs gather to sample the more than 200 craft sodas, ranging from Oak Creek Blonde Root Beer to Mr. Q. Cumber. sebringsodafest.com
ORLANDO
May 18
Salute Uncle Sam for American Craft Beer Week with more than 100 different craft brews, seltzers and more in Gaston Edwards Park. Dress in your best red, white and blue for a chance to win a one-year supply of your favorite beer.
beermericaorlando.com
ORLANDO
Feb. 28–May 27
Witness the world come into bloom this spring at this three-month-long horticultural exhibition unfolding throughout the park. On top of Epcot’s typical allure, stop and smell the flowers, topiaries and botanical displays sprinkled with a little bit of Disney magic. Wander the butterfly garden, which captures the insect’s life cycle and pollination habits, and snap selfies with the meticulous recreations of Disney characters, fashioned out of shrubs, flowers and moss. The topiary sculptures this year include Bambi, Groot, a dragon and more, all created by a team of Imagineers, welders, gardeners and Disney’s in-house horticulturists. Throughout this visual feast, eat your way through Epcot’s 11 countries, sampling seasonal dishes such as spicy chicken gumbo, muffuletta paninis and chocolate whiskey cake. The long-running Garden Rocks Concert Series sets the soundtrack—with performances by the Plain White T’s, Crowder and The Pointer Sisters—to channel your inner flower power. disneyworld.disney.go.com
WINTER PARK
March 15–17
Wander through downtown at one of the nation’s largest juried art competitions. Hundreds of artists will vie for 64 awards totaling $76,500 with paintings, sculptures and mixed-media art. wpsaf.org
TAVARES
March 22–24
Walk the docks at the country’s largest wooden and antique boat show and cheer on the competitors in the Festival of Speed, showcasing more than 60 classic cars. acbs-sunnyland.org
CEDAR KEY
April 6–7
Recognized as one of the top small-town arts fairs in the nation, this festival has been bringing color to the community since 1964. See creations from over 100 artists in this idyllic small town.
cedarkeyartsfestival.com
YBOR CITY
May 26
Decide who has the best Cubano from vendors across the historic Tampa neighborhood of Ybor City at this 13th annual competition. Watch the culinary community attempt to construct a 350-foot-long Cuban sandwich. cubansandwichfestival.com
HALLANDALE BEACH
March 30
Don your frilliest hat and place your smartest bets at this iconic horse race—with a $1 million purse—that has taken place at Gulfstream Park since 1952 and marks the run-up to the Kentucky Derby. floridaderby.com
FT. LAUDERDALE
April 5–7
This signature beachfront festival dedicated to ocean conservation features Lainey Wilson, Hardy, Ashley McBryde and other country music stars. tortugamusicfestival.com
POMPANO BEACH
April 20–21
Eat yourself silly while sampling some of the best crawfish, shrimp and fish in South Florida while listening to local blues and reggae bands. All proceeds benefit Pompano Beach’s Boy Scout troops and local schools.
pompanobeachseafood festival.com
MIAMI GARDENS
May 3-5
Verstappen, Hamilton and Perez bring the g-forces to the Miami International Autodrome, as the Hard Rock Stadium complex transforms into a high-stakes Formula 1 track in this third annual race to take place in South Florida. Throughout the three-day event, international drivers (and the sole American Logan Sargeant) fly 57 laps around the 3.36-mile track at speeds of up to 200 miles per hour for a chance to claim the W on day three. The course snakes around the stadium and features experiential seating areas for fans, like an artificial marina with real glittering yachts. Watch from the grandstands to feel the energy of the cars flashing by or stay a few floors down in the air-conditioned villas for up-close views. Off-the-track action is nearly as exciting as the race itself with some of the biggest names in sports and entertainment mingling among the fans (think David Beckham, Tom Cruise, and Venus and Serena Williams). Art installations, live music from the likes of the Jonas Brothers and DJ sets keep the party vibes hitting on all cylinders throughout the weekend. f1miamigp.com
MIAMI
April 20–Oct. 13
In this Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, exhibition, Cuban-based painter Zilia Sánchez’s abstract forms are surveyed across her 60-year career. Icamiami.org
MIAMI
April 25–June 30
With Lionel Messi’s arrival to Inter Miami came a tsunami of excitement. Now, futbol fans can experience his life through a new lens, with exhibits on his rise to soccer stardom and interactive drills. themessiexperience.com
KEY WEST SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL
KEY WEST
May 1–5
For five days, venues and stages across Key West come alive with the music of the best songwriters and soon-to-be stars from across the United States, featuring country music headliner Cole Swindell. keywestsongwritersfestival.com
Kevin Gray was a habitue of the city’s myriad museums, while as a student at the Parsons School of Design in Paris. He became fascinated with the work of one artist in particular. “I was always amazed at these Calder sculptures,” Gray says, alluding to the American sculptor Alexander Calder. Famous for his colorful mobiles, the graceful lines and fluid motion of Calder’s aesthetic inspired a young Gray. He thought, “Oh, yeah. Why couldn’t we do lighting?”
This sparked the Orbit Lamp. The design classic features a long sloping arm with a circular metal shade on one end and a round metal ball on the other—a concept rooted in the idea of “orbiting the Earth,” says Gray. The lamp was introduced in 1981 and became a hit. “Miami Vice,” the defining TV show of the era, stocked up on the lamps to use as props. “They used to order them in turquoise, blue, orange and like crazy colors,” Gray recalls. “I said, ‘What’s going on with my lamps?’”
Decades later, the internationally celebrated interior and lighting designer, who is based in Miami and New York, has put the Orbit back in orbit. A 40th-anniversary edition, manufactured by Lumen Center Italia in Milan, is on the market. “The originals are collectibles,” Gray says. “Somebody would send me something on eBay, and the lamps were selling for $475, which sold originally for $75.”
Besides its minimalist visual elegance, the lamp’s magic is its mobility, as it swivels 360
Art
degrees atop its spine. “It was probably the only lamp that had movement through it, like a sculpture,” says Gray, who was also inspired by the work of French designer Serge Mouille, whose pieces in the 1950s articulated peak midcentury modern style.
It appears that the return of the Orbit Lamp is only the beginning. Gray also relaunched the Zandt Lamp, named after his Dutch grandfather Emilio Van Zandt. This limited-edition version will be signed, numbered and available in three sizes. Also on the horizon are some new variations of the Orbit Lamp, including a reading lamp and a chandelier.
“I think the Orbit Lamp, the rebirth of
By Steve Dollar MICHAEL BROSNAN, EMMA ENSTEIthe new versions, is what’s going to take off,” Gray says. “To have a floor lamp that pivots 360 degrees … and I think the chandeliers are what might be really good now, because lighting is becoming really, really big—especially (for) dining rooms, staircases and lobbies.”
Design-wise, Gray is going back to the future, and he couldn’t be more thrilled.
“I’m taking the lamp that I did 40 years ago, and I’m relating it to today,” he says. “That’s really going to bring new life to it.”
The Orbit Lamp, priced at $750, is available from the Wolfsonian Design Store in Miami Beach. wolfsonian.org
SEE ART IN THE MAKING MAY 18 & 19 | 12 - 5 P.M.
Explore 75+ art studios across the county! Meet artists where they work to learn more about their creative process and purchase original artwork.
F ind more details and plan your tour at OPENSTUDIOSPBC.COM
Experience more art & culture in Palm Beach County during the Month of Shows, Arts, Ideas & Culture (MOSAICPBC.COM)
