Blue Wings Cosy issue February 2018

Cosy issue 02 / 2018

BLUE WINGS DON’T BE SHY! HELP YOURSELF TO THIS ISSUE AND SHARE IT WITH A LOVED ONE!

MINDFUL

FLOWER POWER

D I GI TA L L E SS ON S

A SACRED H I K E

How to teach empathy to computers

On the trail of Japan’s enigmatic pilgrimage routes

CO O L CO MFO RTS

Looking for the Nordic secret of happy winters

Where we are going, trees can fly.

Everything that’s made with fossil-based materials now can be made from a tree in the future. Today, the books and magazines we read are made of a tree. Tomorrow, it’s about the solar panels from which we power our houses to the planes on which we arrive.

Join the journey: storaenso.com/renewablefuture

Editorial

Welcome onboard

Pekka Vauramo Chief Executive Officer Finnair

bluewings.finnair.com FOKUS MEDIA FINLAND Managing editor

Art director

Web editor Visual designers

Editorial assistant English editing Reprographics

Amanda Soila Sirpa Ärmänen Shelly Nyqvist Sesilja Lindell Iris Mark Aino Vähälä Silja Kudel Faktor Oy

Cover Kreetta Järvenpää by Laura Iisalo Behind this issue Daniel Allen, Tim Bird, Kuutti Heikkilä, Mark Fletcher, Simon Fry, Laura Iisalo, Silja Kudel, Katja Pantzar, Hernan ­ Patiño, Elina Simonen, and ­ Fran Weaver Submissions and feedback bluewings@fokusmedia.fi Blue Wings online bluewings.finnair.com issuu.com/finnair_bluewings Editorial Offices Hämeentie 153 C, 00560 Helsinki, Finland tel. +358 40 630 8253 firstname.lastname@fokusmedia.fi Advertising Sales Jaana Lindvall-Harki tel. +358 40 582 1416 Publisher Fokus Media Finland Printed by Punamusta, Joensuu, Finland 2018 Paper UPM Valor 61g Cover paper Stora Enso LumiArt 200g Circulation 44,000 ISSN-0358-7703

Editor-in-Chief Arja Suominen arja.suominen@finnair.com Finnair Head Office Tietotie 9 A, Helsinki Airport, 1053 Finnair, Finland, tel. +358 (0)9 818 81, Postal address: P. O. Box 15, 01053 Finnair, Finland Customer feedback finnair.com/feedback or by mail: Customer Relations, SL/403, FI-01053 Finnair finnair.com, finnair.fi, finnairgroup.com

Going for gold

T

he Olympic spirit returns this month as the 2018 Winter Olympics take place in PyeongChang, South Korea, from February 9 to 25. A great celebration of true sportsmanship, determination and hard work, the Olympics draw spectators from around the world.

Finnair is very proud to have partnered with both We are the Finnish and Swedish Olympic committees to expecting serve as both teams’ official airline carrier for the Olympics. thousands of We are also expecting thousands of Olympic Olympic travellers on our flights to South Korea as Finnair flies daily to Seoul, and the PyeongChang venues travellers on can be reached in less than two hours by train our flights. from Incheon International Airport. Seoul and South Korea are captivating destinations and the Winter Games are a fantastic opportunity to visit such a beautiful capital and country.

On behalf of Finnair, I’d like to wish all the organisers, athletes, officials and spectators, a wonderful Olympic experience!

Pekka Vauramo PS: B lue Wings has just launched a new website at bluewings.finnair.com, where you can browse our stories online.

FEBRUARY 2018

BLUE WINGS

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Koe aikaisempaa syvempi, elämyksellisempi ja intensiivisempi ajonautinto, joka inspiroi muillakin elämän osa-alueilla.

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Contents February

Suvi Saloniemi pushes ­boundaries. (p. 26)

The art of ­flowercrafting (p. 46)

Along the ­pilgrimage trail in Japan (p. 38)

A different side of Cuba (p. 30)

Dream

Keep your curiosity alive

NORWAY The perfect climb...................................................................... 12 GLOBAL PULSE Libraries in the making...........................................................14

Explore Think beyond the box

AGENDA Our lovely calendar..................................................................18

PROFILE Katri Saarikivi on empathy in the digi age......................34

WISE CRAFT Romantic calligraphy.............................................................. 20

SMART STUFF From packaging to wasabi....................................................36

NANJING Regional tastes .........................................................................22

JAPAN A visual pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo...................38

PRODUCT INSPIRATION South Korean street style......................................................24

CONVERSATION Meik Wiking on Nordic loan words....................................45

HELSINKI A museum curator’s passion project.................................26

FIELD TRIP Handmade in Helsinki.............................................................46

CUBA Head east for people and culture ..................................... 30

TEHRAN Iranian tea moments................................................................58 FEBRUARY 2018

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Contents February

Fly

The world of Finnair FINNAIR NEWS What’s new.............................................. 80

Create

Celebrate accomplishments CREATIVE CORNER Who’s who in cosy Copenhagen........................................62

FINNAIR SERVICES Fly the Nordic way .......................82 FINNAIR PLUS Frequent flyer rewards ........................83 SHOPPING Wish list from the Finnair Shop .................84 MY FINNAIR Passenger stories......................................... 86 SKY FOOD Culinary options in the air ............................87 WELLNESS Comfortable flying ........................................88

FINLAND A refreshing dip........................................................................ 68

ENTERTAINMENT Stay connected...................................89

INVESTIGATION Beat the winter blues.............................................................. 72

HOLIDAY SAMPLER Winter packages............................91

SHOWROOM Step inside the home of the Lego brick ..........................76 Q&A Blogger Matt Long shares travel insight..........................78

STAFF TIPS Wintry warmers in South Korea.............. 90 SUSTAINABILITY Video for sign language users ......92 FLEET Modern fleet at your service.................................93 MAPS Destination check-list and Helsinki Airport......94 FINLAND FACTS Fascinating figures..............................98

Hardy devotees of ice swimming (p. 68) Underground design in Helsinki (p. 76)

Delhi is a daily ­destination during the winter season (p. 80)

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The Anderson Hotel in Copenhagen scores extra cosy points (p. 62)

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Dream

Keep your curiosity alive

Cuba beyond Havana Step into East Cuba’s haven for music, sun, and motorcycle trips (p. 30).

Coordinates PHOTO KUUTTI HEIKKILÄ

N

orthern Norway is a peak destination for seasoned climbers to test their skills. Not only are the towering icefalls a challenge to tackle, but daytime is limited and the weather can be very unpredictable. Getting to the icefalls of Ørnedalen, in the valley of Kåfjårddalen, is a journey in and of itself – after skiing for about an hour, you reach a narrow, steep canyon rising skyward more than 500 metres. At the end of the canyon awaits the reward: Many world-class icefalls screaming to be climbed.

And when your axe hits the ice for first time, that’s when the real adventure finally begins.

– Kuutti Heikkilä, Finnish photographer living in northern Finland

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A place to be

N 69° 24’48.0” E 20° 55’44.0” Location Ørnedalen, Norway

Free entrance!

The cities of Helsinki and Beijing welcome you to the biggest Chinese New Year event in the heart of Helsinki!

Check out the program: kiinalainenuusivuosi.fi | Thu 15 February 4–8 PM | Keskuskatu & Ice Park Organizers

Partners Finland-China Society

With the support of Embassy of the People’s Republic of China

Global pulse

Inspiration and ideas from across the network

COMPILED BY KATJA PANTZAR

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ANNA PALMROTH

The good list

LITERARY OASES As February marks library lovers month, we showcase three Nordicdesigned bookish masterpieces in the making:

2. Oslo public library’s new main branch Deichman in the Bjørvika harbour area, slated to open this year, will boast a movie theatre, gaming zones, and a restaurant – in a striking building.

3. The new Shanghai Library Pudong, scheduled to open in 2020, will have a Nordic look as Danish design firm Schmidt Hammer Lassen Architects are creating the site that will include two pavilions housing a 1000-seat performance venue and a dedicated children’s library.

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Design speak

KICKY PRINTS

Snowpanda House opens this month.

ONES TO WATCH

CUTENESS OVERLOAD Ä

htäri Zoo in central Finland will be home to two giant pandas, Hua Bao and Jin Baobao, on loan from China.

The exchange, a gesture of friendship and goodwill between the two countries, was agreed upon during P ­ resident Xi Jinping’s official visit to Finland last spring. The zoo’s Snowpanda House opens to the public on February 17, and the two cuties have already been given Finnish names: Lumi (“snow”) and Pyry (“snowfall”). According to the zoo, experts have assessed conditions in Finland and found the zoo’s c­ limatic and ecological conditions to be similar to those of the mountain forests of Sichuan, Gansu, and Sha’anxi provinces – the natural habitats of giant pandas in China.

FEBRUARY 2018

Finnish design house Marimekko has teamed up with Japanese brand Uniqlo to create a collection of travelfriendly tops, dresses, and sneakers along with accessories such as a polka dotted tote and a gym sack – both of which make for a great carry-on.

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1. Opening at the end of this year, Helsinki’s new central library Oodi, located in the city ­centre’s Töölönlahti, will feature a sauna, recording studios, and a host of additional services.

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Global pulse

COMPILED BY KATJA PANTZAR

Inspiration and ideas from across the network

The book nook

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DELIGHTFUL DESIGN Inspire Me! (Cozy Publishing) by Isa Kukkapuro-Enbom and Jutta Ylä-Mononen captures the inspirational stories on the creative process of 25 awardwinning Finnish designers who have been awarded the prestigious Kaj Franck prize. Designers range from Harri Koskinen to Eero Aarnio, Ritva Puotila, and Vuokko Nurmesniemi. This visually stunning book makes for a lovely gift or souvenir.

TRENDING

THE BIG BALTIC PARTY C

entennial celebrations light up 2018 in the Baltics as Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania c­ elebrate their 100th birthdays. The Estonian capital Tallinn, voted Lonely Planet’s best value city for 2018, is a great place to be on February 24, which officially marks 100 years of the Republic of Estonia. But not to worry, if you miss the day’s festivities, Estonia’s centenary celebrations will continue through to 2020.

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New Year wonders

AUSPICIOUS EATS According to Chinese food symbolism, what you eat on Chinese New Year could determine the type of year you have, writes Hong Kong’s South China Morning Post. A good choice is “egg noodles or yi mein, which ­symbolise l­ongevity.” Food is only one part of the ­Chinese New Year celebration, marked throughout the world on February 16 this year. For travellers to Hong Kong, the fireworks display over Victoria Bay is also a must-experience.

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Agenda

Global calendar for curious minds

COMPILED BY SIMON FRY

Lovely Day Cupid’s arrow is flying this month.

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ANIMAL ATTRACTION

Astronomy Couples can enjoy two hours of smoochy stargazing at the Sydney Observatory, taking in the Moon, constellations, the Jewel Box (an open cluster of stars 6,400 light years away), and the Southern Cross. Drink and canapés included.

Feb 14 Sydney, Australia maas.museum/event

Zoology Dublin Zoo will open from 8 am so 100 couples can enjoy a lovefilled date. After a romantic breakfast picnic, lovers will experience the zoo’s earlymorning sights and sounds before its animal care team hosts themed keeper talks on breeding, courtship, and the mating rituals of some of the animals.

Feb 17–18 Dublin, Ireland dublinzoo.ie

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EVENT ATTITUDE

STAR CROSS’D LOVERS

FEBRUARY 2018

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SWINGING SIXTIES Cars Around 300 Volkswagen Beetles old and new will gather at Brussels’ Autoworld museum for the 10th staging of the city’s Love Bugs Parade. The 2018 event continues the Flower Power theme of recent years (expect bandanas and hippy daisies) but will also celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Herbie the Love Bug movie.

Feb 11 Brussels, Belgium autoworld.be

DRINKS D’AMOUR Cocktails & wine Love comes in liquid form over two nights at Via Umbria restaurant. A Share the Love cocktail class will conjure up a Cupid’s Cup, Love Potion, and Valentino while a sparkling wine tasting evening samples and shares the stories behind four northern Italy varietals.

Feb 13–14 Washington DC, U.S. viaumbria.com

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THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF FINLAND

ROCK CHURCH Temppeliaukion Church

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FORUM

Wise craft

TEXT AND PHOTO AMANDA SOILA

Local talents to watch

Maria Vilenius specialises in romantic calligraphy.

The art of love letters F

or centuries, handwritten epistles were the ultimate expression of romantic love, but amid today’s instant messaging channels, chats, and dating apps, love letters are becoming a rapidly disappearing art form. Yet, there is something powerfully romantic and touching about an actual, physical love letter. So believe Maria Vilenius and Léa Faytre, whose Paris-based Le Mot d’Amour service specialises in creating beautifully handwritten letters and cards for customers to send to their loved ones.

“Handwriting is a vanishing art form, yet a beautifully handcrafted piece of text is often a much warmer, personal, and precious way of expressing your true feelings than just typing,” says

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Vilenius, the company’s calligraphy expert.

Vilenius herself discovered calligraphy by accident. Originally from Finland, she had studied graphic design in France when she was recruited by a company that creates invitations and greeting cards for luxury brands for fashion weeks or other special events.

Vilenius and Faytre started their love letter company two years ago, and business has really taken off. Unsurprisingly, Valentine’s Day is the busiest time of year, with Vilenius scribing hundreds of love letters in the lead-up week.

“Most of the time people simply want to express how much they care about somebody. We’re just the middleman in the romance,” says Vilenius. 

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Up close

TEXT AND PHOTOS DANIEL ALLEN

Off the beaten path

Many of Nanjing’s best restaurants overlook the city’s pictureseque network of canals.

NANJING:

TRENDING TASTES P

eking duck, that most famous of Chinese dishes, is well known the world over. What far fewer people realise is that China’s capital of duck cuisine is not Beijing at all, but a city situated over 1,000 kilometres further south.

Welcome to Nanjing.

Nanjing was once the imperial capital of China. With emperors holding duck in high culinary esteem, the popularity of these feathered fowl soon spread from the royal courts to the man on the street. Today the city’s cornucopia of duck dishes is still said to reflect the more refined palette of Chinese southerners.

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FINNAIR FLIES TO Nanjing

(NKG) three times a week starting May 13.

If the rich, saucy and altogether theatrical Peking duck typifies northern China’s heavy gastronomy, then Nanjing’s duck dishes are light and piquant, with local chefs incorporating it into everything from soups, snacks, and pastries to hors d’oeuvres, main courses, and dim sum. As the local Nanjing saying goes: “Without duck, there is no feast.”

The most famous duck dish is undoubtedly yanshuiya - or salted duck. This is marinated in a special brine, and generally served cold, with the finest examples boasting pale skin, pink meat and a delicate, mildly spiced flavour.

A top spot to sample the famed yanshuiya is Jinling Hotel Plum Garden located in the business district of Xinjiekou.

Duck aside, currently making its way in the Nanjing culinary stakes is xiaolongxia (crayfish), which is usually served up in a hot and spicy chili sauce. Possibly not imperial fare, but a great way to warm up on a springtime evening. The atmospheric restaurant of Nanjing Impressions is one of the best venues to bite into the spicy crayfish trend. 

Culture swap Destination inspiration

COMPILED BY LAURA IISALO

Style stars of Seoul

FINNAIR FLIES TO Seoul

(ICN) daily from where you can catch a high-speed train to PyeongChang to watch the 2018 Winter Olympics.

Korean street style is world-famous for being fun and fabulous – with colour and ­eye-catching details.

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1 — EYE CANDY Noir Cat specs by Gentle Monster have yellow-tinted lenses and plenty of attitude. €181.50 2 — HIGH AMBITIONS Tasselled leather platform shoes by Acrobat put a spring in your step. €310 3 — BOLD AND BRIGHT Unisex canvas laptop bag by Leftfield is the perfect companion for a day in the city. €47 4 — FOOD FOR THOUGHT Prepare the tastiest street food dishes with recipes from Da-Hae West, author of K Food. €8.40 5 — HEAD FIRST Top off your look with a dose of street cred with a blue Dreamers beanie by Korean streetwear label General Idea. €19 6 — STYLE STATEMENT Graphic sweatshirt by Korean label Supercomma B won’t go unnoticed. €155 7 — GOOD SPORT Gear Sport smart watch by Samsung keeps you on a healthy track. €349

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Food Walk card offers a choice of 10 restaurants.

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Tourist Information: Aurakatu 2, 20100 Turku Tel: +358 (0)2 262 7444 www.visitturku.fi

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“I love my office, but Helsinki really deserves a larger museum dedicated to design,” says Suvi Saloniemi.

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Passion project

Anatomy of a curator An eye for beauty, a nose for relevance, and an ear for future rumblings create a hunger for pushing boundaries in Suvi Saloniemi.

TEXT SILJA KUDEL PHOTOS ELINA SIMONEN

T

hese days almost anyone can call themselves a “curator” – we “curate” websites, tweets, and Facebook pages. But curating professionally requires a special talent for contextualisation.

This gift comes naturally to Suvi Saloniemi, chief curator at Helsinki’s Design Museum, who describes herself as “insatiably curious and passionate about all things visual.”

Now in her sixth year as chief curator, she regards her career as a “lifelong learning process.”

Her proudest achievement to date is a recent retrospective celebrating the career of Finnish design legend Eero Aarnio. A smaller version of the show is featuring at the prestigious Hyundai Design Library in Seoul until May 13.

“Every exhibition gives me a chance to become an expert on something new. With Aarnio, I learnt a lot about plastic! But to tell the truth, at every new opening, I’m already thinking about the next show.”

Each new exhibition project begins with weeks of intensive research.

B EYOND CUPS AND CUTLERY With an academic background in art history – along with fine arts training and a colourful career including detours as a DJ, journalist, and director of a fashion institute – Saloniemi is uniquely equipped to pick up “weak signals” and engage wide audiences.

“Museums create their exhibition calendars many years in advance, but it’s difficult to predict what will be hot four years from now. Staying ahead of the curve is a challenge for curators,” she says.

“My philosophy is to stretch the boundaries of what design can be and what designers can do, going beyond cups and cutlery. I play a supportive, > FEBRUARY 2018

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Lemmetti Gallery is a new Helsinki space specialising in Finnish design collectibles.

advisory role encouraging designers to be the best they can be.”

The Helsinki Design Museum’s recent Enter and Encounter exhibition is a good example: “We wanted visitors to discover something they didn’t traditionally think of as design. I am proud to have discovered a new name for this show, Kozeen Shiwan, a chef who does amazing things with food and design, which is a big new trend.”

CONCEPTUAL CROSSOVERS Another of Saloniemi’s current passions is limited-edition design, which she promotes as a member of the advisory board of CHART Design, a new section at Copenhagen’s CHART Art Fair held every August.

“Finland has a long tradition of democratic, utilitarian design. With many young designers opting out of mass production in favour of greater creativity, the collectibles trend is really taking off in the Nordic region,” says Saloniemi.

One of her favourite designers is Tuomas Markunpoika, whose “torched” rococo chairs, a tribute to his grandmother, are like skeletons mirroring the tragedy of Alzheimer’s disease, where memory loss and cognitive impairment can lead to personality changes. “I am intrigued by this conceptualism,” states Saloniemi.

With resources growing scarce, she sees limited-edition design as a potential antidote to throwaway consumerism. “Call me a dreamer, but maybe if more people invested in collectibles, they would treasure their possessions longer.” 

SUVI SALONIEMI, 37 Who Chief Curator, Helsinki Design Museum Mantra “Curiosity is a superpower. It will keep you forever young.”

Secret talent “A strict timetable is not a problem – it is an asset: it makes you trust your intuition and push ahead.”

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“The Savoy restaurant designed by Alvar Aalto in 1937 is a perfect authentic setting for a special dinner,� recommends Saloniemi.

FEBRUARY 2018

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Smile of the crocodile If Cuba is shaped like a swimming crocodile, its eastern mouth smiles to travellers looking for the proverbial something different.

TEXT AND PHOTOS SILJA KUDEL

BARACOA BEATS Nowhere are the locals warmer than in Baracoa, Cuba’s most isolated town hidden beyond dense tropical jungles near the eastern tip of Guantánamo Province. Charmingly dishevelled in a time warp, the town is a tourist-free haven for music lovers. The Casa de la Trova is perfect for afternoon mojitos, with different bands playing every night.

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PLANTATION GLAMPING Guide Juan Sanamé Rivero raises his machete (“the baby”) and chops open a ripe cocoa pod, lifting out the soft seeds used in the artisanal production of cocoa at Finca Duaba, a lush farm five kilometres from Baracoa, where Rivero hosts tours of the cocoa trail. After sampling “the drink of the gods,” guests can stay on site in colourful riverside bungalows.

LA TUMBA FRANCESA One of Cuba’s rarest musical gifts is La Tumba Francesa, an Afro-Cuban style of straightbacked dancing, conga-style drumming, and call-andresponse singing introduced by slaves from Haiti. Travellers lucky enough to witness a rare live performance are privileged, as the UNESCO heritage-listed art form is endangered.

Inside track Cuba beyond Havana

Gibara is a diamond in the rough just waiting to be discovered.

ERNESTO GUEVARA’S TOP 3 BIKER DISCOVERIES 1. The jungles of Topes de Collantes 2. The revolutionary city of Santa Clara 3. Viñales, heartland of Cuban tobacco

FOLLOWING FIDEL The turquoise waters of Holguín attract both resort vacationers as well as pilgrims following in the footsteps of Fidel Castro, who was born to a wealthy sugar farmer in the village of Birán. His wellpreserved childhood home is open to visitors, many of whom are surprised to find that El Comandante grew up amidst wealth, not poverty.

The best time to visit Holguín is May for the Romarías de Mayo festivities.

THE WILD EAST Among the scenic eastern towns nearly wiped out by Hurricane Ike in 2008 is Gibara, a coastal fishing village that is bouncing back thanks to recent government investment.

Off the beaten tourist trail, the town has few hotels, but homestays (casa particular) are a comfy option. Gibara hosts the Festival Internacional de Cine Pobre (festival of lowbudget cinema) every April.

FINNAIR FLIES TO Havana (HVN) twice a week during the winter season.

MOTORCYCLE DIARIES The most romantic way to explore Cuba is on the back of a vintage Harley Davidson. “It gives you a sense of freedom.

Thanks to the climate, you can ride all year long and enter deep into the countryside,” says Ernesto Guevara, youngest son of the fabled revolutionary Che Guevara.

Biker trips are offered by his company La Poderosa Tours, named after the Norton 500cc immortalised in Che’s famed book The Motorcycle Diaries. 

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Explore

Think beyond the box

Happy handcrafts Floral design and calligraphy workshops are the latest mindfulness trend (p. 46).

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Think again

Flipping the perspective

Enter the era of digital empathy We meet a woman whose mission is to improve interaction technology by teaching empathy to computers.

TEXT AND PHOTO LAURA IISALO

R

apidly evolving technology has led to a growing concern that direct human interaction has been replaced by computers – and with this comes worrying results. As we spend more time communicating online, it has already become evident that emotions are often poorly transmitted via computers, resulting in misunderstandings and poor online communication. This is because, unlike humans, machines lack the ability to understand and convey emotions.

What would happen if computers and smart phones learned to exhibit empathy?

As a cognitive neuroscientist Katri Saarikivi devotes a considerable portion of her waking hours to researching the subject. She is not against the on-going digital development – quite the opposite.

It is her belief that the best results stem from combining human and artificial intelligence. What Saarikivi wants to do is improve interaction technologies so that computers enrich rather than impoverish communication.

Empathy is a word that repeatedly pops up in Saarikivi’s speech. “Empathy is often seen as this soft thing, an emotion, or as a weakness, while it is actually an assortment of cognitive skills that help us to understand how and what other people are thinking and feeling,” she explains. To learn what happens in the brain during human interaction, Saarikivi has spent the past two years engaged in researching “two-brain neuroscience” with colleagues Valtteri

Wikström and Tommi Makkonen. “If you want to understand an individual, you must look at what happens in interaction – other people define at great length what comes out of us,” she says.

To take things further, Saarikivi and her team have embarked on another t­woyear research project funded by Business Finland and ten partner companies. This time they are investigating empathy in real working situations and online interaction environments, such as virtual reality. Their goal is to understand how computers can better transmit human emotions leading to improved communication and collective intelligence.

Saarikivi is the first to admit that empathy doesn’t automatically lead to good deeds, but the fact that humans have advanced empathy skills means that this quality has probably been useful throughout history. In a business context, empathy can help companies create successful products and services by helping them better understand their customers. Yet nobody knows for sure exactly where the emergence of online empathy and emotional artificial intelligence will lead.

“I believe that empathy is the right way forward and I can present logical reasoning for why that is – but I have no guarantees. I do think that it’s an interesting new area that we should look into. We humans are curious creatures,” she concludes. 

KATRI SAARIKIVI, 34

What I do Cognitive neuroscientist What I think “I try to find ways of doing significant things with good people. Curiosity and perseverance keep my thinking relevant and my mind open.”

What I have learned “Shit happens. Some of it is good, some not. Fortunately you can also make shit happen.”

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Smart stuff

COMPILED BY MARK FLETCHER

Discoveries for a clever life

WHEELSTRÖM

JURT HYDROPHONICS

KATRI KAPANEN

BLUESMART

GOODBYE PLASTIC! Cosmetics companies can now benefit from one of the world’s most sustainable packaging solutions for their products.

Sulapac® combines wood chips and natural binders to create fully biodegradable packaging that is as pleasing to the eye as it is kind to the environment.

Co-founder Suvi Haimi adds: “We are proud to be Nordic and share our message that every package makes a difference.”

POP AN E-WHEELIE The electric bike trend in Finland is shifting up a gear courtesy of Wheelström and their three models designed for stylish, lowemission mobility.

Kompis and Kaveri are the more traditional models while Gran Amigo takes on the popular cargo-bike look. All models have a 250-watt electric motor with a range of 50 kilometres.

NORDIC WASABI J

urt Hydroponics have created “a perfect day in Japan” in Iceland by developing a high-tech greenhouse to produce the notoriously hard-to-grow wasabi plant. Their aim is to supply fresh produce to high-end Nordic and fusion cuisine restaurants to replace the more common wasabi, which is actually horseradish, mustard, and green food colouring.

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LUGGAGE WITH SMARTS Bluesmart have recently released series 2 of their smart luggage range.

And smart it truly is. In addition to storing belongings, it offers clever features such as GPS geo-tracking, self-weighing, and phone recharging, as well as the ability to sync up with your travel itinerary and device.

Miller & Lean Presents:

Innovations for a better tommorrow

#1 Pineapplepig They make beef in the lab, so this should not be a challenge.

You’re welcome, pizza industry of Finland.

The Lean Advertising Agency

Escape Japan

A pilgrimage to paradise

The pilgrimage network of Kumano Kodo in Japan blurs the borders between the material and the spiritual.

PHOTOS AND TEXT TIM BIRD

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In Japan, the land of lightning-fast trains and gadgetry, a genuine connection with nature remains profound. On the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail on the Kii Peninsular, linking three Shinto Grand Shrines and passing through a variety of

fabulous scenery, the traditional aim is to absorb the nourishment of being one with nature and pay respect to the many shrines, large and small, along the way.

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“Many Japanese rituals are connected with planting and harvesting,� says Brad Towle, a Canadian who has made his home in Kumano. Festivals and processions across the country coincide with the planting of rice in spring, for example.

Colourful but solemn fire rituals, symbolising spiritual purification, take place on the pilgrimage trail, such as the one in April at the climax of the Kumano Hongu Taisha festival.

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Many pilgrimage shrines are located at or symbolised by large rocks or waterfalls. Kumano Kodo trekkers typically start their journey at Kumano Hongu Taisha, marked by the magnificent Oyunohara Torii or gateway into “spiritual territory.”

At the Kumano Hongu Taisha spring festival, young boys are carried on their fathers’ shoulders in ceremonial procession from shrine to shrine in a Shinto rite of passage.

>

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A hilltop tea shop above Hongu Taisha overlooks tea plantations, orange trees, and patches of late spring blossom, before the trail heads down towards Oyunohara Torii.

Shinto priests, known as kannushi or shinshoku, help to maintain the shrines as well as lead processions and ceremonies paying tribute to the spirit or kami housed in the shrine.

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The Grand Shrine at Kumano Nachi Taisha, set on a mountainside with the backdrop of forest and a revered waterfall, is an important and popular landmark on the pilgrimage trail.

The thick rope draped over the entrance of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine shows that a kami or spirit is housed here.

Shrines are designed to be in harmony with nature, not to dominate it.

>

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Increasing numbers of “wellness pilgrims� flock to the Kumano Kodo area. The popularity of the pilgrim network has been boosted by their UNESCO World Heritage status, shared by only one other similar spiritual route, Camino de Santiago, in Spain.

FINNAIR FLIES TO Osaka (KIX) and

to Nagoya (NGO) five times a week during the winter season. Kumano Kodo can be reached from both destinations by train and/or bus.

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Regular contributor Tim Bird loved the chance to concentrate on imagery to tell the pilgrimage story.

Conversation

Guest writer Meik Wiking

What’s in a name?

H

ygge, lagom, sisu: These days Nordic piegnartoq for snow suitable for sledding. loan words seem to have become our Following these discoveries, the Sapirfastest-growing export since crime fiction Whorf hypothesis in the 1940s stated that a and new Nordic cuisine. But what are the culture’s language both reflects how people magic ingredients behind these concepts experience their world and affects their that have made the rest of the world fall in actions in it. In today’s context, just consider love with them? for a moment how words like “fake news” Danish hygge has been described as or “climate change” reflect our view of the “conscious cosiness” while Swedish lagom world and affect how we navigate in it. is shorthand for balance or moderation.

Shakespeare famously wrote in Romeo Finnish sisu, on the other hand, translates and Juliet “What’s in a name? That which as strength, determination, and guts. we call a rose. By any other name would It all started a couple of years smell as sweet.” By naming things, ago when hygge began making we recognise their value. waves in the international Obviously, before the spread The word hygge media. Since then, it has of the word hygge, Danes has helped us grown into a global lifestyle were not the only ones able trend, with more than 500 to enjoy the pleasure that remove guilt titles dedicated to the topic comes from sitting by a fire from life’s simple and sipping a steaming mug of available through Amazon’s UK site – one of which is mulled wine in good company. pleasures. authored by me. My book has However, while Danish pastries been translated into more than 35 enjoyed in front of an open fire may languages and it has sold more than one taste just as sweet by any other name, million copies. Some of the numerous reader Danes see hygge as a precious part of their letters I have received from around the world culture: as something of value, something can help us understand exactly what makes we should strive for, enjoy, and celebrate. this trend so attractive. Many are variations of Perhaps that is the real power of the little “I’ve been doing hygge all my life; I just didn’t word hygge – the removal of guilt from life’s know there was a word for it.” simple pleasures. Or, as a woman from Our words reflect our world. We give the France, wrote me: things we see – things that matter – names.

“Earlier I would spend afternoons with In the 1880s, the anthropologist Franz my two kids doing nothing except cuddle Boas, while living with the Inuit people up in blankets, drink tea, and eat biscuits. of Northern Canada, became intrigued Previously, I would have felt guilty about it by the Inuit language, which had words and called it a lazy afternoon. Now I call it a such as aqilokoq, “softly falling snow” and hygge afternoon.” 

FEBRUARY 2018

Meik Wiking is CEO of The Happiness Research Institute in Copenhagen and the author of The Little Book of Lykke: The Danish Search for the World’s Happiest People.

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Of hand and mind Pottery, floral design, and calligraphy workshops are just a few examples of a rising happiness trend: mindfulness through handcrafting.

TEXT AND PHOTOS LAURA IISALO

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Love of art and flowers led photographer Kreetta Järvenpää towards a new career.

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Järvenpää finds it ­therapeutic to work with flowers.

Ironically it is the digital revolution that has allowed the handcrafting trend to flourish.

F

rom beautiful handmade ceramic cups to lovingly arranged flower bouquets, handcrafting skills are on trend now.

Workshops sell out fast in London and New York, and thanks to Instagram and Pinterest, the craze is spreading like wildfire globally.

Aleksi Neuvonen, trend researcher and co-founder of the Demos Helsinki think tank, believes that making things by hand is a great contrast to the increasing time we spend tapping away at our laptops and smartphones. Ironically it is the digital revolution that has allowed the handcrafting trend to flourish. “YouTube, blogs, and social media platforms are full of videos in which people share their tips and know-how, making it easier to learn at home. People also have more time and money to spare these days, which further fuels the trend,” Neuvonen notes.

ADDICTIVE ART OF FLORA It was the desire to escape her computer that sparked Kreetta Järvenpää’s interest in devoting more time to arts and crafts. “As a photographer I’m a heavy user of technology and it can be

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tiring. But when I just have a bunch of flowers, some chicken wire, and a vase in front of me, it’s very relaxing and therapeutic,” she says.

Järvenpää resides in a beautiful, light-filled studio in a converted factory building in northern Helsinki. After eight years of working as a resident photographer in a publishing house, she decided to go freelance in 2014 – and that’s when everything changed. “I suddenly had much more time on my hands. Before, when I was working full-time, I never had the chance or energy to focus on art and do what I wanted to do,” she explains.

Järvenpää made the most of her newly found freedom by starting to paint and make pottery, motivated by the simple desire to learn new skills.

“Life would be boring if I couldn’t try out new things all the time. Whenever I get interested in something new, it also benefits my photography, making it much more enjoyable,” she says. Aleksi Neuvonen of Demos understands precisely what Järvenpää is saying. He believes that the process of learning itself can be addictive: practicing new skills improves coordination between the imagination, the eye, and the hands, which can be very satisfying.

A few years ago Järvenpää decided that she wanted to learn more about working with flowers – a natural choice as she already enjoyed photographing flowers and was an avid home gardener. Having attended many photography workshops around Europe, she looked for similar courses in floral design, but finding there was no one organising them in Finland, she >

KREETTA JÄRVENPÄÄ runs

floral design workshops in her airy studio in northern Helsinki. instagram.com/kreettakreetta

Everything changed when Järvenpää went freelance and found an inspiring studio space. >

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Graphic designer Aleksi Pehmuste finds working with clay meditating.

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Potter Mia Pitkänen has seen a surge of younger people joining after-work courses.

SEPTARIA holds an open

workshop from Monday to Friday and organises evening and weekend pottery courses. septaria.fi

decided to take matters into her own hands. “I teamed up with experienced floral designers and started running courses in my studio. I taught photography and helped the students take pictures of their final assembly. Other than that, I learned by watching and used the leftover flowers to make my own bouquets,” she says.

After plenty of practicing and sharing her creations in her blog and Instagram feed, Järvenpää finally feels experienced enough to teach floral design herself, in which she plans to collaborate with Merituuli Väntsi, a chef who will create delicious dishes for the students.

Järvenpää knows from experience that the hardest part is getting started. “We often have plenty of ideas, yet taking the first step can be tough because we are held back by some sort of ‘I can’t do this’ attitude. That happened to me with painting; I thought I couldn’t do it because I wasn’t an artist. People easily pigeonhole themselves and each other, but once you take the first step and start doing something, it always gets easier,” says Järvenpää.

HANDS DEEP IN CLAY At the Cable Factory, a large cultural centre in Helsinki, Mia Pitkänen and Riitu Uosukainen have been running pottery workshops at Septaria for 17 years. Owned by clay and pottery equipment retailer Kerasil, the studio is usually filled by regulars who often come in daily, but lately there has been a surge of younger people who join an after-work class to learn the art of hand building or wheel throwing. “People come in to make plates, bowls, spoons, and mugs that they’ve perhaps seen online or in Instagram.

The result doesn’t have to be perfect; a rough, handmade look is in right now,” says Pitkänen.

Aleksi Neuvonen of Demos has an explanation for this growing trend: he believes that the endless supply of material goods available these days has lost its appeal and made people appreciate objects that have special meaning. “Knowing who made the object gives it greater value, and even more so when we make it ourselves. The pleasure of doing something with our hands, combined with the process of learning, is especially satisfying,” he says. Perhaps this is why people often report that working with clay makes them feel more centred, just like meditation or mindfulness does. >

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“For many people everyday life is very busy and handcrafting is a chance to stop and be fully present. Clay is a very concrete material; you make something and you see the finished result, unlike when you’re working on a computer, which is immaterial,” Uosukainen explains.

The feeling is certainly familiar to Aleksi Pehmuste and Erika Haavisto, who are regulars at Septaria and hooked on working with clay.

Both creatives – Pehmuste is a graphic designer and coder while Haavisto is a documentarian – describe the enjoyable sense of calm they experience when they concentrate on crafting ceramic vases and plates by hand. Haavisto started her hobby while living in San Francisco, where pottery is an increasingly popular pastime for busy Silicon Valley residents. “I started my hobby to balance out my work and ended up

spending eight hours a day and five days a week at the pottery studio. San Francisco is a very hectic city and I wanted to do things differently.

Working with clay is just the best way to meditate,” says Haavisto.

MODERN TAKE ON CALLIGRAPHY The power of handcrafting is also a source of strength for Aini Mäensivu. After graduating in event management and working as a wedding planner in London for a couple of years, she discovered a new passion for modern calligraphy, a freer form of the traditional copperplate technique born in England in the 16th century.

“I’ve always been interested in typography and design; I am one of those people who puts a lot of effort into making envelopes and Christmas cards look pretty. When I stumbled on modern calligraphy I realised that the thing I loved had a name, and I was instantly hooked,” she recalls.

Mäensivu started learning new techniques by browsing through inspiring blogs and online tutorials. To motivate herself further she took part in a charity project by working on calligraphy commissions and raising 6,000 euros for a charity in Nepal along the way. “Working intensively really improved my skills. When the project >

“When I have my paper and pen in front of me, I instantly feel at peace.”

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AINI MÄENSIVU teaches

modern calligraphy in the centre of Helsinki and sells starter kits through her website. scriptcreative.fi

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Modern calligraphy is a freer form of the traditional copperplate technique.

finished I knew I wanted to keep on doing it because I loved it so much.” Mäensivu set up her company Script Creative and started providing her clients with hand lettered products and event services. In 2017 she held her first modern calligraphy workshop during Helsinki Design Week, which quickly sold out. This doesn’t surprise Neuvonen. “People enjoy the feeling of handwriting. In calligraphy the symbolic movement of the hand connects verbal and visual expression very tangibly and enhances creativity,” he says.

Encouraged by her success, Mäensivu has continued with monthly courses and is developing her concept by offering more advanced workshops. She is also planning the launch of a new online shop selling calligraphy equipment and starter kits. It is clear to her why her hobby has proved so popular. “Most people that come to the workshop share a love of beautiful, handmade things, but they also come because this is a great way to balance the busy pace of everyday life. My own lifestyle is super hectic but when I have my paper and pen in front of me, I instantly feel at peace.” 

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Laura Iisalo is a ­Helsinki-based ­freelance writer and photographer who is drawn towards art, crafts, and local culture.

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*Access to preferred or pre-reserved seating is in accordance with the individual policy of the ONEworld member airline operating the flight. First and business class check-in desks and lounges are not available at all airports. Fast track is not available at all airports. Priority baggage handling is not available on flights operated by British Airways. Extra baggage allowance benefits differ for Sapphire and Emerald level members. ONEworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a ONEworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a ONEworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and ONEworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of ONEworld. Some limitations and exceptions may apply. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/benefits.

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Snapshot Tehran

Tea time in Tehran B

ig, busy, and polluted are usually the first few words that travellers use to describe the bustling capital of Iran. Yet despite its vast size, Tehran offers many oases of calm and inspiration, especially in its traditional teahouses and beautiful cafés.

Chaikhanehs, or teahouses, grew popular after the 15th century, when tea leaves became easy to procure through the booming Chinese Silk Road. Even today, one item is found in every teahouse and home in ­Tehran: a Russian samovar, or tea boiler, which has been an essential part of daily life for at least two centuries.

Coffee has also been part of Persian and Middle Eastern culture since long before western civilization.

In recent years, Tehran has seen a coffee renaissance, with hundreds of beautiful, modern cafés popping up all around the city. Combining a laid-back, cosmopolitan atmosphere with more traditional architectural ­elements, cafés offer young city dwellers an important daily meeting place for open discussion and creative collaboration.

GARDEN OF HEAVEN When the hassle of the megalopolis becomes too much, the people of Tehran take a short trip north to Darband, a recreational area at the foot of the majestic Alborz Mountains, which overlooks the city. There are many hiking paths lined with traditional teahouses and restaurants, the most beautiful

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ART IN THE PARK In the centre of Honarmandan Park is an artists’ forum known as “the house of the artists,” an art hub that hosts monthly exhibitions in its eight galleries spread over two floors. The many cafés in the area are kept under close watch by the hungry and stylishly lounging Persian cats residing in the park. The most famous restaurant is in the artists’ forum itself, and it is one of the very few restaurants in town that serves quality vegetarian food: Their take on traditional kebab skewers is a Persian vegan feast. The restaurant is also a great place to enjoy a decent cup of coffee in a beautiful downtown garden.

Park-e Honar, Baroroushan street off Iranshahr Avenue, ­district 6, near Taleqani metro station.

among them being Bagh E Behesht, or “Garden of Heaven,” a multi-level terraced restaurant built directly into a steep hill – the perfect place to enjoy the cool mountain air with some tea and a local water pipe, or hookah.

Take the metro to Tajrish ­station followed by a 20-­minute taxi ride to Darband.

DIZZI AND DOOGH Housed in a beautifully restored covered courtyard, Azari Traditional Teahouse across the street from the main railway station is the place to head for a special evening out in Tehran. Guests remove their shoes and sit crosslegged in the carpeted dining area.

The teahouse serves only three dishes: traditional dizzi lamb stew, chicken kebabs, and steamed freshwater fish. All meals are served with robust chunks of oven-fresh sangak flatbread. The drinks menu is equally simple and traditional: Start with a doogh yoghurt drink and finish the meal with endless cups of piping hot tea served with biscuits.

Southern end of Vali-e Asr Avenue near the central Railway Station. ďƒź

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Uusi ikkuna maailmaan Tilaa omasi fokusmedia.fi/tilaa-lehti

LUONTO • MATKAT JA SEIKKAILUT • HISTORIA • KANSAT JA KULTTUURIT • TIEDE

Create

Celebrate accomplishments

Copenhagen comforts A new wave of creative businesses redefine the Danish capital of cosy (p. 62).

Maya Langeland and Jesper Stengade at the door of CMYK kld.

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Creative corner Copenhagen

Capital of cosy cool With a mix of cool bars and cafés, innovative restaurants and boutique hotels, Copenhagen is reconfirming its status as “cosy capital” of Europe.

TEXT AND PHOTOS TIM BIRD

New kids on an old block The opening of Restaurant Relae by two “graduates” from Copenhagen’s renowned and Michelin-garlanded Noma in 2010 marked the confirmation of Jægersborggade neighbourhood on the Danish capital’s trendy scene. In its previous, mostly residential incarnation, this street in the city’s Nørrebro district was better known for its shady drug deals and biker gangs.

These days it’s lined with colourful modish boutiques, organic stores, and snug cafés.

Among the earliest arrivals in Jægersborggade’s more recent community were Maya Langeland and Jesper Stengade, whose background as illustration design students inspired the CMYK kld art poster shop at number 51. The shop consists of two tiny converted bicycle storage cellars connected by a back office, one of which doubles as a print factory and gallery, with the second holding a fabulously well-stocked selection of framed pictures.

The shop is full of little details that reveal themselves suddenly. You look at the wall and wonder why those grey-painted wooden chairs are fixed to it, before it dawns on you that they

serve as shelves. Customers can browse through boxes of laminated prints, choosing pictures for A4 prints that are delivered through a laser printer housed in an old washing machine.

“There were only five or six shops on the street to start with,” says Langeland. “It’s still pretty cosy and we meet our neighbours every day.

Everyone is trying to do their best to make their living in their own little shops, and there are 40 or 50 shops here now. It was like starting school together, but now we are the old class because we’ve been here since the beginning. People are hopeful when they come here but it’s difficult to make it work.”

Even so, a constant trickle of customers drop into the shop soon after its midday opening. “We want the kind of feeling of a small bookshop or a record store, with a big selection and an atmosphere – just a great place to spend some time,” says Stengade. “We wanted to have a place that everyone could be involved in, where you could buy affordable things from artists that you wouldn’t see anywhere else, who were not big names or famous.”

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Called to the bar

Mikkeller’s Jesper Ternsøe: Serving beer for everyone, not just the snobs.

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Jesper Ternsøe, manager at the Mikkeller Bar Viktoriagade in Copenhagen’s Vesterbro district, is pouring a glass of Vesterbro Pils, selecting it from an on-tap range that also includes Warpigs War Canoe and Beergeek Breakfast. Quirky names for characterful beers are part of what distinguish the Mikkeller brand. Founded in 2006 with no particular business plan by physics teacher Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, still the owner, and journalist Kristian Keller as a homebrew experiment, the company now has bars across Denmark, Europe, the US, and Asia, from Aarhus to Bangkok.

“I think this bar and the other Mikkeller craft beer bars encapsulate the Copenhagen spirit. The concept of hygge isn’t incorporated or mentioned in the business model, but it’s the comfortable feeling you get when you are enjoying time with a few people, drinking fine beer. Our beers are part of that feeling of being relaxed and safe," says Ternsøe.

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BEER AND BREAD

Aquavit and Smørrebrød – open rye-bread sandwich – are two Danish essentials, and Mikkeller has its own intimate dining venue specialising in both, Øl & Brød, next door to the Viktoriagade bar.

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Part of the brilliance of the enterprise is that each bar has a unique character and ambience, while maintaining a brand association. As you walk down the short flight of steps to the original Mikkeller Bar in Viktoriagade, set up before all the others as a showroom, you don’t get the sense that you are entering the heart of a brew empire. The wooden furniture is homely but basic and the counter is surprisingly compact. There are no machines or TVs, just a tasteful and almost imperceptible musical backbeat.

In mid-afternoon just a few punters are sipping in quiet corners and the atmosphere is perfect for cosy conversation. Later that evening the bar is full and bustling with locals as well as tourists on bar tours, but there’s still a sense of intimacy.

“We try to strike a balance between having really exclusive beers and easy, approachable beers. It’s for everyone, not just the beer snobs and their aristocrat brews,” says Ternsøe. “We don’t want to be exclusive. Managers have leeway in choosing the selection and we serve local beers you might not see in other places.”

Contrary to what many customers expect, Mikkeller is not a microbrewery. “We’re a ‘gypsy’ or cuckoo brewery,” Ternsøe explains. “A year ago we bought a brewery in San Diego while most of our beers are brewed in Belgium and also in Norway. Our War Pigs bar in the Meatpacking District is an exception and brews its own beer. The beer culture in Denmark has always been pragmatic but Mikkeller has helped people realise you can drink it for its own sake, like wine.”

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p. 09 855 62 10

BIKES YOU’LL LIKE

How to work off the calories of all those delicious kanelsnegle pastries? Like many Copenhagen hotels, The Andersen has bikes to rent. Hop on and head across the Langebro bridge to explore the suburbs of Amager island.

Karen Nedergaard: Finding a niche in the boutique hotel market.

Boutique beauty Karen Nedergaard, owner-manager of The Andersen Hotel on the edge of Copenhagen’s Vesterbro district, is lighting tea candles on the tables in the lobby lounge. A basket full of coloured wools and knitting needles rests on a shelf in the corner, with a sign inviting guests to have a go. An “honesty bar” is at one end of the lounge, from which guests can mix their own drinks and sign a book to pay later.

Soon it will be early-evening Happy Hour, when wine is served free and guests congregate in the lounge, sipping, conversing, reading papers, or swiping on their iPads. The eager front-desk staff are offering advice to new arrivals about where to dine in the nearby Meatpacking District.

Shall it be tapas-type dining at Paté Paté, seafood at Fiskebaren, or cheap-and-cheerful chicken and fries at Chicky Grill-Bar? “I’ve seen this district change over the years from being fairly down-to-earth, even seedy, to the trendy place it is today,” says Nedergaard, whose family have owned the hotel since 1977, as well as its sister property, the Absalon just across the road,

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since 1938. “My MBA strategy project looked at the best way to run and develop the hotel in this district. I concluded that it needed a niche or something special.”

The upgrades that followed resulted in the rebirth of the hotel as a 69-room design boutique hotel. In line with Denmark’s design traditions and creative climate, this is a boom time for self-proclaimed design and boutique hotels in Copenhagen, vying for originality and environmental ultra-friendliness.

The Andersen has these qualities, but scores extra “cosy points” on account of its motivated, friendly, well-informed staff – the hotel won third spot in its category in Denmark’s Great Place to Work survey – and for its imaginative attention to detail.

Each floor is colour-themed with the UK’s Designer Guild wallpaper, and treats such as cookies and toffees are thoughtfully placed on each stair flight, little rewards for neglecting the elevator. “We’ve gone for very cosy, bright but warm colours,” says Nedergaard. “And we have florists arranging fresh flowers in the lobby area daily.” 

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ICY IMMERSION Come winter, some 150,000 swimmers brave the icy waters around Finland.

Niina Uronen, from Savonlinna, takes an icy dip by a friend’s lakeside sauna.

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Sidesteps Finland

AS FRIGID as it may seem, swimming or dipping in icy water regularly through the winter is actually good for the soul.

The cold shock of an icy dip increases endorphin production in the brain, which can give swimmers a euphoric sense of achievement. Some say that this rewarding feeling makes the sport strangely addictive.

Research shows that keen winter swimmers also enjoy many health benefits, ranging from lower blood pressure and enhanced blood circulation to better cold tolerance. “In surveys, swimmers have also reported that they feel less stress, sleep better, and suffer much less from colds, flus, and rheumatic or arthritic problems,” says Hanna Okkonen of the Outdoor Association of Finland.

With more than 150,000 hardy devotees, ice swimming in Finland is nothing to balk at.

“There are more than 200 registered winter swimming venues around Finland, including many maintained by popular local clubs,” says Okkonen. “Since 1989, the Outdoor Association of Finland has coordinated national championships, including 25-metre and 50-metre

breaststroke and freestyle events as well as popular 4 X 25-metre relay races.

The 2017 event in Tanhuvaara attracted about 800 participants, aged 13 to 84, in addition to several hundred non-swimming onlookers. According to Okkonen, most people swim mainly for fun, or for their health, but organised events also attract swimmers who have competed at high level in more conventional indoor events. When clubs compete in relay races the swimmers and the fans can get surprisingly heated up, considering the cold temperatures.

The next national championships will be held at Ähtäri Zoo Resort in central Finland on February 3–5, 2018, where visitors might also have a chance to see the zoo’s eagerly awaited new residents – two giant pandas.

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Participants in the breaststroke event during the 2017 Finnish Winter Swimming Championships in Savonlinna.

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Many winter swimmers wear woolly hats to reduce heat loss.

4x PUBLIC DIPS

There are several places in and around Helsinki where anyone can go for an icy dip through the winter.

1. Löyly is a stylish seaside restaurant with its own quayside sauna complex where swimmers brave the chilly waters of the Baltic in all seasons.

Hernesaarenranta 4 xxx

PROPER GEAR In winter swimming events, headwear is compulsory to help prevent heat loss.

Some people don bathing caps, but others wear a colourful and eccentric range of woolly hats.

Many seasoned swimmers wear neoprene gloves and water shoes to protect their extremities, and it’s worth wearing flip-flops or crocs to help you stay on your feet as you slither between the icy water and a warm refuge. Many winter swimmers also wear dressing gowns while scurrying between the sauna and the ice hole, since air temperatures may be much colder than the water, which typically remains just above the freezing point.

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HOLE SWEET HOLE In addition to winter swimming facilities run by local clubs, many Finnish families carve out smaller ice holes by their homes or waterside saunas, using a spade or chainsaw. Niina Uronen, from Savonlinna, dips in icy water by a friend’s lakeside sauna about once a week through the winter. “I know it seems a bit crazy, but it actually feels really good!” she says. “I’m also convinced that what people say about all the health benefits is true, because I certainly feel wide awake after a dip, but then sleep very well at night.”

FEBRUARY 2018

2. Just under the SkyWheel and a snowball’s throw from Market Square, Allas Sea Pool has a heated pool and a seawater pool as well as a café.

Katajanokanlaituri 2 3. For a quintessential Finnish sauna and swimming experience, head out to Kuusijärvi, not far from Helsinki Airport, where you can try a traditional smoke sauna and dip in an ice hole cut into a small lake surrounded by scenic snow-clad forests.

Kuusijärventie 3, Vantaa 4. The island of Uunisaari, linked by bridge or ferry to Helsinki’s Kaivopuisto Park, boasts a sauna that is open to visitors on Sundays throughout the year – with a bathing beach and a cosy café for chilling out after a chilly dip.

ARCTIC MAGIC IN KEMI SEA LAPLAND

EXPERIENCE THE SEA, SNOW AND ICE WITH ICEBREAKER SAMPO CRUISE AND THE KEMI SNOWCASTLE.

All-year-round SnowCastle opens in Kemi in December 2018!

World Luxury Hotel Winners SnowHotel and Seaside Glass Villas introduce adventurous accommodation.

SnowRestaurant offers arctic delicacies by the ice tables and frozen sea numerous unique adventures from ice driving to snowmobile safaris to the Arctic Adventure Island.

www.visitkemi.fi sales@visitkemi.fi +358 16 258 878

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Investigation

Cold comforts Looking for the Nordic secret to beating the wintertime blues? Search no more.

TEXT SILJA KUDEL ILLUSTRATION OUTI KAINIEMI

IT’S THAT TIME of year again when the mercury

plunges below zero, the sun rises after 9 am, and sets around 3 pm in the Nordic capitals. Further north, at latitudes of 69°N, the sun doesn’t rise at all from November to January.

But while weeks of darkness might seem depressing to denizens of warmer climes, rates of seasonal depression are remarkably low in the far north – and this, argues Stanford PhD psychology student Kari Leibowitz, has to do with mindset.

“How we talk about winter really influences how we feel about it,” says Leibowitz, who recently spent a year in Tromsø, Norway, 400 kilometres north of the Arctic Circle. Curious about how northerners avoid wintertime woes paradoxically more common in the south, Leibowitz surveyed 238 Norwegians and discovered that many of them welcome winter as something to be relished rather than dreaded.

“The most surprising result of my study was how overwhelmingly positively many Norwegians viewed the extreme winter, while many people in the US, even those in milder climates, hate it!” notes Leibowitz.

NORWEGIAN KOSELIG While Americans bond by bellyaching about bad weather, Leibowitz found that Norwegians spread positive mindset by speaking cheerfully about winter

and celebrating the magic of the polar nights.

They make the most of winter by getting outdoors, socialising, enjoying festivals, and by making the season special in every possible way, with candles, steaming beverages, fuzzy blankets, and crackling bonfires.

“They make life koselig, which roughly translates as “cosy contentment,” but almost anything can be koselig, from a restaurant to a business meeting. It comes from the joy of being with people you care about in an intimate setting, and from embracing the soft, peaceful parts of winter that come with darkness and soft light,” explains Leibowitz.

“Whether by being koselig indoors or staying active outside, skiing and hiking and playing in the snow, Norwegians find many things they look forward to that they can only do in the winter. The rest of the world can learn something from this mindset.”

SWEDISH LAGOM Koselig is closely related to the Swedish concept of lagom and the subject of a new book by Malmö-based lifestyle blogger Niki Brantmark, entitled Lagom, Not Too Little, Not Too Much: The Swedish Art of Living a Balanced, Happy Life (HarperCollins, 2017).

Since leaving London and moving to Sweden 13 years ago, Brantmark has whole-heartedly embraced

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“There’s no such thing as bad weather; only bad clothing.”

the Swedish philosophy of lagom to achieve balance and serenity in her life. “Lagom is very much ingrained in the Swedish lifestyle. It’s about finding equilibrium and slowing things down to a comfortable pace.”

One of Sweden’s serenity secrets is an institution known as fika. “This basically means ‘coffee break with a treat,' but it implies a great deal more. It’s a moment to slow down and appreciate the good things in life, whether at home or at work. It can mean spontaneously inviting friends for mulled wine and gingersnaps, or going out with a thermos and enjoying cinnamon buns with the kids,” explains Brantmark.

Along with fika, cocooning amid peaceful décor keeps the Swedes smiling through the dark season. “Swedes are great at making things mysig (cosy) with natural fibres, sheepskin throws, and rolled-up blankets, or simple things like keeping a basket of woolly socks by the door for visitors to keep their feet toasty warm. Simple white décor and candlelight are also ideal for brightening up the home and creating a cosy atmosphere in the winter.”

Undaunted by grim weather, Swedes also enjoy winter’s pleasures by bundling up and getting outside. “There are so many activities to enjoy in the snow! Our family skates when the ice freezes over, and we love to go out in the woods to barbecue sausages over an open fire. After a walk in the woods and an injection of nice fresh air, home feels even cosier. It’s all a matter of wearing the right clothing,” adds Brantmark.

FINNISH SNOW-HOW But is there a point when it is literally “too cold” to go outside? “With proper clothing, sufficient

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physical activity, and correct planning, it’s safe to stay outdoors even in extreme conditions. There’s an old Finnish saying that there’s no such thing as bad weather; only bad clothing,” says specialist research scientist Kirsi Jussila, author of The Winter Traveller’s Guide (Finnish Institute of Occupational Health, 2013).

Layered clothing is ideal, as the inner layer keeps skin dry when perspiring, the middle layer seals in warmth, while the outer layer provides protection against wind and moisture. Warm gloves and boots are essential, as fingers and toes are the first to cool. And never leave home without a beanie: an uncovered head leads to the greatest heat loss.

Overdressing is just as potentially harmful as underdressing, notes Jussila: “Too heavy clothing during exercise can cause discomfort if garments get wet due to sweating or from snow and sleet, as moisture greatly decreases thermal insulation.”

Failure to protect the face and ears is a health risk, especially when bare skin is exposed to wind. Always check your companion’s face for white spots – a warning sign of frostbite.

Foreign travellers visiting arctic locations should always check the weather forecast and pack along a warm, dry change of clothing, Jussila advises. “And remember that clean garments are warmer than dirty ones. Keep your phone and a spare battery in a warm pocket in case of an emergency. And when travelling alone, make sure you tell somebody your route and estimated time of arrival. Arctic winters are best enjoyed the safe way.” 

AMAZING NANJING AWAITS YOU T H E N O R D I C WAY

EXPERIENCE ONE OF THE HISTORICAL CAPITALS OF CHINA.

Nanjing holds some breathtaking historical sites that should definitely be added on your travel bucket list. Enjoy Ming Dynasty artwork, admire the Gate of China and taste unique local delicacies. When the day is over, discover vibrant nightlife as this gorgeous city comes to life. Finnair flies several weekly direct flights from Helsinki to Nanjing from May to October 2018. Book your flights at finnair.com

Showroom

COMPILED BY SILJA KUDEL

Celebrating creative outcomes

Creative clicks

PERSONAL NOTE These notebooks help organise your life and unleash your creativity in 2018.

STEPPING ON Lego bricks brings

LEGO

®

no pain at the new Lego House in Billund, Denmark. Designed by Bjarke Ingels of BIG architects, the immersive visitor centre consists of 21 scaled-up Lego bricks and coloured patios invisible from street level, with white tiled façades creating the illusion that the entire building is made of Lego blocks. Filled with 25 million bricks, the 12,000-squaremetre building contains four colourcoded exhibition and play zones bringing to life the Lego philosophy that “learning by play promotes creativity and innovation,” says Lego House CEO Jesper Vilstrup.

TUOMAS UUSHEIMO

SHINING UNDERGROUND

SASHA KRETOVA is a Helsinki-based illustrator whose minimalistic notebooks are an “it” item loved by bloggers. €9.50 from Weecos

FOR THE MERE cost of a metro ticket

fare, art spotters in southern Finland are going underground to see Light Weave, a LED tube ceiling installation by Tommi Grönlund and Petteri Nisunen at the new Keilaniemi metro station in Espoo. The station was designed by award-winning ALA Architects together with Esa Piironen Architects.

KATI-MARIKA raises a smile with her whimsical images of cheeky birds and imaginative flora in an irresistible range of pastel hues. €7.00 from Weecos

STONE-AGE BEAUTY “PREHISTORIC” candleholders by young

NOORA HUUMO

ceramic artist Saija Halko are the latest addition to the Finnish National Museum’s collection of design items reinterpreting historic artefacts. “I wanted to pay homage to the museum’s prehistoric collection by transforming primitive stone tools into something fresh and contemporary,” says the designer. €49 and €59

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DESIGN LETTERS

notebooks feature Vintage ABC typography designed by Arne Jacobsen in 1937; available in A-Z with hardback cover. €16.00 from Katoko

ANDY LIFFNER

Reborn at six A 2.5-METRE-TALL marble bust

by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa is the dramatic centrepiece of At Six, a design hotel opened last year on Stockholm’s Brunkebergstorg Square.

Home to one of Europe’s most ambitious hotel art collections, the 343-room hotel is housed in a formerly derelict bank converted by London-based Universal Design Studio.

The brutalist architecture is softened by artwork carefully selected by curator Sune Nordgren, featuring drawings

by Julian Opie and works by land artist Richard Long.

At Six recently won two AHEAD design awards in the “Guestrooms” and “Urban Hotel Conversion” categories and was runner-up in the “Hotel of the Year” category.

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Globetrotter

On the road with a travel blogger

Looking down at Prague’s city centre from the Old Town Hall.

The serene fishing community of Greenspond in Newfoundland, Canada.

A surrealist’s ice cream along the waterfront in Nice, France.

The Rockies soar above Moraine Lake in Banff National Park, Canada.

Beyond comfort zone A former cubicle-dweller turned his love of travel into a profession.

How did you get into travel blogging? My passion has always been seeing the world, but I was stuck in a job I hated. I started writing on the weekends as an outlet and thankfully have since been able to make this my full-time job.

What is your all-time favourite destination and why? If I could only visit one foreign country again it would be Australia. The continent has it all from the dusty Outback to vibrant cities.

What is your secret weapon for capturing stunning images? Composition is key in ­creating a great photo as is storytelling. Instead of only capturing a nice scene, try to make sure that the image communicates something – be it an ­emotion, idea, or entire story.

Do you have a travel philosophy? Travel is about personal growth and I think it’s important to do at least one thing that makes you somewhat uncomfortable on every trip. It can be something simple like trying a new food or more adventurous like bungee jumping, as long as it pushes you out of your comfort zone.

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An experiential luxury traveller at heart, Matt Long shares his adventures through his awardwinning site. landlopers.com

Fly

The world of Finnair

Inspiring journeys The world is your playground with Finnair’s extensive network.

World of Finnair Destination of the month

DEL

Delhi, India

COLOURS OF DELHI

In the heart of the Indian metropolis, calm and beauty can be found inside the Jama Masjid mosque. Located in Old Delhi, the mosque is one of the largest in the country, accommodating a whopping 25,000 people.

The red sandstone gives the arched interiors its gentle reddish hue while the view from the top of the minaret offers a breathtaking view over the city. The “Friday Mosque� is just one of the majestic highlights of a trip to this historic, colourful, and sprawling megacity. Finnair increases frequencies to Delhi, making it a daily destination during the winter season.

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World of Finnair Highlights of the month

Cabin cues Olympics here we come The second Asian country after Japan to host the Winter Games, South Korea sets the stage this month on which the world’s best athletes compete.

The 2018 PyeongChang Winter Games consists of 102 events in 15 different sports. Located in Gangwon-do Province, PyeongChang is easily accessible from Seoul’s Incheon International

Airport in some two hours by high-speed KTX train.

As the official airline of both the Swedish and Finnish Olympic teams, Finnair is proud to help the athletes complete their Olympic journey by flying them to the 2018 Winter Games. Finnair will carry approximately 400 athletes, coaches, and support staff.

Iconic Finnish design house Marimekko and Finnair extend their collaboration with a renewed range of cabin textiles and amenities, including stylish seat covers, p ­ illows, blankets, and chinaware.

Marimekko patterns will be featured in all cabin classes on all Finnair A350 aircraft. David Kondo, head of cabin interior development at F ­ innair says, “with Nordic-inspired design throughout the entire cabin, our aim is for guests to be treated to a travel experience that soothes the senses and clears the mind.”

The new interior elements will be rolled out in phases during 2018.

FINNAIR ON SOCIAL MEDIA

Finnair Our Operations Control Center Duty Manager Jukka Huhtala retired after 40 years of a career in various positions. #feelfinnair

feelfinnair A stroll through #yuzawashrine in #nozawaonsen.

Photo by Juha Laine. #japan #ski #myoko

Finnair Our Winter 18/19 new destination is Lyon! We’re adding more long-haul frequencies to Osaka, Hong Kong, Delhi, and Phuket. #growth

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World of Finnair Services

STAY CONNECTED

Fly the Nordic way

FINNAIR CHAT Finnair Live chat is available on weekdays 7 am to 10 pm, on Saturdays 9 am to 6 pm, and on Sundays 10 am to 10 pm (Finnish time).

MEET FINNAIR’S chatbot, affectionately known as Finn, who is ready to help plan your journey via Finnair’s global Facebook Messenger account.

FINNAIR APP Tap your way through your journey. Log in with your last name and booking reference or your Finnair Plus username and password.

SKY HIGH WI-FI All Finnair

WITH A MODERN FLEET, extensive route network, and world-class service, Finnair offers a comfortable and convenient way to travel.

A330 and A350 aircraft offer Wi-Fi connections.

WECHAT

E

stablished in 1923, Finnair is one of the world’s oldest airlines. Since then, the company has grown from a small carrier to one that is a respected member of the international airline industry.

With over 100 destinations in Finland, Europe, Asia, and North America, Finnair’s route network includes 17 destinations in Asia, 4

in North America, and some 70 in Europe. In 2016, Finnair carried more than 10.8 million passengers, with more than 1.6 million passengers flying between Asia and Helsinki every year.

Finnair’s modern and ­ecofriendly fleet consists of over 60 aircraft, most of which are Airbuses.

Scan and follow Finnair’s official WeChat account.

SMART PACKING

TIPS FOR A SMOOTH TAKEOFF

Pack too much?

Off-peak lounging

Celebrate Friend’s Day

Ski holiday prep

Use Finnair Plus points for a reduced price Finnair Lounge voucher at Helsinki Airport or buy access in advance for €39 via finnair.com.

Pamper yourself or surprise a friend by ­pre-ordering a bottle of ­champagne and a box of chocolates to be served onboard.

A snowboard or ski bag is considered one piece of baggage.

Pay your excess­ ­baggage fee at prepaid prices via ­ finnair.com.

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Avoid excess baggage fees by paying in advance for extra allowance at special pre-paid prices directly from finnair.com.

Liquids rule Liquids are allowed through security in containers (max 100ml) packed in a transparent resealable 1-litre plastic bag.

World of Finnair Frequent flyer program

FI N LU T A /P M IN O JO R.C I A

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Finnair Plus membership THE FINNAIR PLUS program allows you to earn both tier points and award points when travelling with Finnair or a oneworld airline and award points from services provided by Finnair Plus partners.

A WORLD OF BENEFITS

WHAT’S NEW THIS MONTH?

Book with Kaligo

J

oin Finnair Plus for free by filling in the form attached to this magazine or online at finnair.com/plus.

As a Finnair Plus member, you get access to valuable benefits and rewards.

Earn points for flights and services and use them both at home and abroad.

You can use your Finnair Plus award points for additional Finnair services such as seat selection, meals, and extra baggage payments. The number of points you pay depends on your flight and the chosen service. You can pay for travel extras at the time you book your reservation or later through the Manage Booking tab.

Go to finnairshop.com to find Finnair gift cards, partner services, and award vouchers.

BEST FROM PARTNERS

Use your Finnair Plus points when booking a hotel or earn 5-15 points for every euro you spend. Choose from over 550,000 properties worldwide. kaligo.finnair.com

As of March 31, your Finnair Plus award points will not expire when you remain active at least once every 18 months. Every time you earn or use points, the expiration date for your Finnair Plus award points will be pushed forward 18 months. This way you can collect enough points for the rewards you want! finnair.com/plus

Shop at Stockmann Don’t forget that you can earn and use Finnair Plus points for purchases at Stockmann department stores and on their web shop. Just activate your Stockmann loyal customer card and start enjoying the benefits! finnairshop.com

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World of Finnair Deals of the month

7 reasons to love finnairshop.com

LAPUAN KANKURIT Eskimo hot water bottle, several colour options Available from finnairshop.com for seat and home delivery

SHOPPING ALERT! The Finnair Shop is your one-stop shopping site to pre-order products before your flight, use your Finnair Plus points to buy Nordic design items delivered directly to your home, and use your Finnair Plus points for various Finnair Plus partner services.

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€32.70

Various skincare products. Available from finnairshop.com for seat and home delivery.

EEVA ATTLING

€16–48

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€276 and €228

!

Harmony jewelry set Available from finnairshop.com for seat and home delivery

GEORG JENSEN Henning Koppel Pitcher, 0.75L. Available from finnairshop.com for home delivery only.

€215

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FEBRUARY 2018

RETAIL THERAPY

SHOPPING MADE EASY! Now you can use your Finnair Plus points to pay for your pre-order products and ­onboard purchases!

Go to the complimentary Nordic Sky portal onboard – the ­pre-order webshop is always open on Wi-Fi connected Finnair flights. Find the best deals on ­tax-free products and enjoy special Finnair Plus offers.

World of Finnair Deals of the month

1, O 00 FF 0 ER P

FEBRUARY DEAL

NEW AT THE FINNAIR SHOP

MARIMEKKO

This month choose from an even wider selection of products delivered either to your seat or directly to your home when you use Finnair Plus points.

Pieni Letto duvet cover & pillow cases. Available from finnairshop.com for home delivery.

€59 + 1,000 p

4X WAYS TO SHOP IITTALA Essence beer glass 8cl, 4pcs. Available from finnairshop.com for home delivery.

ONBOARD Shop online via your own mobile device during the flight using the complimentary Nordic Sky portal.

1, O 00 FF 0 ER P

€49 + 1,000 p

P 0 0 R 0 E 3, FF O

PRE-ORDER Pre-order online before any Finnair flight. finnairshop.com

NAANTALI SPA VOUCHER A one-night accommodation, pool and sauna included. Available at finnairshop.com.

€130 + 3,000 p

HOME DELIVERY Use Finnair Plus points to shop for products delivered directly to your home.

VOUCHERS Use Finnair Plus points to redeem a voucher for restaurants, hotel stays, car rentals, and much more.

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World of Finnair Flying stories

Every seat has a story

3X #FEELFINNAIR Share your Finnair moments on Instagram using @feelfinnair. If you want to be featured, use #feelfinnair.

IT’S THE CUSTOMERS who make Finnair and that’s why we’ve dedicated this page to your travel stories.

MEET THE FREQUENT FLYER

kaksipaksuapoikaa The compulsory stop before flying out.️ #helsinkivantaa #airportlounge #travelblog

wanha_raatesalmi Amazing adventure in a snow covered forest. #rukafinland #icelandichorse #visitfinland #lapland Esa Harju Finnair Plus ­member since 1992 Finnair Plus tier Lifetime Gold Average flights per year 50 + Next destination Los Angeles

What items could you never travel without? On long-haul flights, my phone and noisecancelling headphones.

What is your all-time favourite ­destination? San Francisco.

What is the most impressive airport? Helsinki ranks high on efficiency, comfort, and throughput speed; Singapore on overall breadth of services; Bangkok on friendly service!

Which Finnair Plus benefit do you use most? I use points for flights and travel class upgrades.

Share one tip to combat jetlag.

I find melatonin helps as well as getting in some exercise.

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miuhukka Beautiful beach surrounded by the jungle. #higuerablanca #nayarit #mexico #pacific

World of Finnair Sky Food

Eat well FANCY A SNACK ONBOARD? Finnair offers a wide selection of seasonal and healthy options that combine the best of the Nordics, Europe, and Asia.

3 WAYS TO A TASTY MEAL SIGNATURE MENU. Business Class passengers on Finnair long-haul flights can enjoy Signature Menus prepared by chefs from top restaurants.

Complimentary beverages Complimentary coffee, tea, water, and Finnair’s signature blueberry juice are always served on Finnair flights.

Pick of the month Long-haul Economy Class passengers can upgrade their first complimentary meal to a delicious Nordic Bistro meal on selected intercontinental routes. Pre-order at least 24 hours in advance.

SKY BISTRO. Passengers on Finnair flights within Europe and the Middle East can mix and match favourite tastes from the onboard Sky Bistro menu.

FINNA

SKY BISTRIR O

PRE-ORDER. Passengers on Finnair flights within Europe and the Middle East can choose sandwiches, salads, breakfast, or dinner in advance from the Nordic Bistro menu.

CHEF OF THE SEASON STARTING FEBRUARY 7, a taste sensation awaits long-haul Business Class passengers flying from Tokyo to Helsinki when chef Rika Maezawa, Finnair’s first Japanese Signature Chef, creates her four seasons menu.

Maezawa serves up vegetable-centric meals that stretch beyond the conventional boundaries of Japanese cuisine.

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World of Finnair Wellness & comfort

3X TIPS FOR CABIN COMFORT

Onboard wellness

STAY HYDRATED It is recommended to drink 250 ml (8 oz.) of water every hour. If possible, minimise the amount of tea, coffee, and alcohol you drink.

HEALTHIER AIRCRAFT The Finnair A350 combines the latest technology with advanced passenger comfort features to help you rediscover the thrill of flying.

An advanced HEPA filtering system changes the cabin air every two to three minutes ensuring comfort and health for all passengers. Large

windows let natural light flow into the cabin and LED technology emits lighting and colours that are customised to fit the time of day, destination, or season. The noise level is 16 decibels below the standard requirement, so resting and relaxing while onboard is easy.

GET SOME SLEEP The best way to tune out is to wear an eye mask and ear plugs. Keep warm, too – have a jacket or blanket handy in case you need it.

2X COMFORTABLE UPGRADES NORDIC BUSINESS CLASS

ECONOMY COMFORT

Finnair’s Business Class seats let you fully recline on your intercontinental flight. The seats transform into a 200 cm (6’6”) horizontal bed, so you can enjoy a good night’s sleep.

Finnair’s Economy Comfort seating in the front of the Economy Class cabin makes intercontinental travel even more pleasurable with 8–13 cm (3–5 inches) more legroom.

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GENERAL WELLBEING Try to bring something to snack on.

Fruit and veggies are always a great healthy option. And remember to wear comfortable clothing.

World of Finnair Flight mode

Stay connected THE NORDIC SKY Wi-Fi portal is available on all intercontinental flights and gives you access to news, destination information, and Finnair services. You can use the portal to connect your own devices to the internet.

HOW TO GET STARTED

1

FINNAIR APP – YOUR TRAVEL COMPANION Get boarding passes, book flights and travel extras, view your Finnair Plus balance, and much more with the Finnair app. The app supports your Finnair journey all the way from home to your destination and back!

urn your T device to flight mode and ­enable Wi-Fi

2

Join the Wi-Fi ­network Nordic Sky

3

Open the browser of your choice

4

Start exploring at nordic-sky. finnair.com

1 HOUR

3 HOURS

12 HOURS

7.95€

11.95€

19.95€

You can purchase or redeem internet access directly from the portal.

WHAT’S PLAYING BLADE RUNNER 2049 Thirty years after the events of the first film, a new blade runner, LAPD Officer K, unearths a long-buried secret.

THREE BILLBOARDS OUTSIDE EBBING, MISSOURI Mildred Hayes goes to war against the local police force, believing them too inept to solve a murder.

WONDERSTRUCK The story of a young boy in the Midwest is told simultaneously with a tale about a young girl in New York fifty years ago.

THE MIDDLE Sitcom starring Emmywinning actress Patricia Heaton as Frankie, the frazzled matriarch of the dysfunctional Heck clan.

GOOD TIME Constantine embarks on a twisted odyssey through New York City’s underworld in a desperate attempt to get his brother out of jail.

NEW GIRL Quirky comedy focusing on the offbeat, adorable Jess Day, who moves in with three single guys following a bad break-up.

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World of Finnair Staff tips

Korean barbeque is the ideal comfort food.

XXXXX

Warm up Korean style

Korean sauna has numerous health-boosting effects.

BLUE WINGS editor Amanda Soila shares her winter favourites with travellers heading to South Korea for the Winter Olympics.

KOREAN BBQ

TEA TIME

Choice cuts of meat and plentiful sides make Korean barbeque (gogi-jip) the ultimate comfort food on a cold day. Tender slices of beef and pork are grilled at the table and dipped in rock salt, accompanied by tasty sides. Ultra-popular Maple Tree House in Seoul combines culinary excellence with a visual feast.

Offering heated floors and an array of warm pick-me-ups, traditional Korean teahouses are a toasty way to warm up after a stroll around town. Seoul’s Cha Masineun Tteul is touted as one of the city’s best spots for an authentic teahouse experience. Located in the historical Bukchon neighbourhood, it’s housed in a renewed Hanok building with large windows offering views of the mountain scenery.

LOCAL STEAM

Korean sauna, Jjimjilbang, is a great way to shake off the winter chill. Typically comprising several steam rooms, all with different health boosting effects, Jimjbang helps fight stress and eases muscle pains. The best-equipped saunas are located in the larger cities, but smaller bathhouses can be found around the Olympic venues. Ask your hotel for recommendations.

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TOP TASTES ONBOARD

When flying long-haul, maximise travel comfort by eating well. Finnair’s selection of seasonal food and beverage options combine the best of Europe and Asia. If you have a special dietary requirement, remember to submit your order no later than 24 hours before departure.

Amanda Soila, Managing ­Editor of Blue Wings, fell in love with Korean culture while visiting the country on a ski holiday.

World of Finnair Holiday sampler

Experience more with Finnair

TOP 3 ASIA BREAKS Take a look at these three relaxing vacation packages from aurinkomatkat.fi.

Krabi. The lush Thai island offers something for everyone from climbing to kayaking or simply taking a break, surrounded by stunning scenery.

EXPLORE FINNAIR HOLIDAYS FINNAIR HOLIDAYS is a completely new way to travel. You’ll get flights, hotels, unique experieces, and triple the amount of Finnair Plus points – all from one place. Find your story at finnair.fi/holidays.

Intriguing destinations

Triple Finnair Plus points

Finnair Holidays opens the door to the most intriguing places in the world. Choose a theme for a unique holiday experience.

You can earn three Finnair Plus tier and award points for every euro used on your Finnair Holidays experience.

Phan Thiet. Relax on the beach under bamboo tree shade or pamper yourself with a spa treatment. Crown the day with dinner on the beach.

Flights, hotel, and a holiday experience Finnair Holidays is an easy way to find flights, hotels, and unique experiences all in one place.

Koh Lanta. This is the place to be for diving and snorkelling aficionados.

Those preferring dry land can explore the rugged hills of the national park.

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World of Finnair Sustainability

BRENDAN DELANY

Good signs for the future V

ideo material for deaf and sign language user passengers on Finnair flights is available on A330 and A350 aircraft. The videos are accessed via the inflight entertainment menu and provide information related to inflight service on longhaul flights and landing in Helsinki presented in international sign language by Finland’s star deaf rapper, Signmark.

“I contacted Finnair after I had seen similar videos in sign language,” says Signmark, aka Marko Vuoriheimo. “Finnair didn’t have any services in my native language, which is sign language, so I suggested they set an example like this to other airlines.”

Signmark relished the chance to cooperate with Finnair. “I’m glad that I can serve the sign languageusing community internationally as the video is made using international sign. It’s good to know that Finnair respects our language. We can see the motions and animation of information videos, but part of the information is always missing if there is nothing to explain what you see.”

According to Kati Ihamäki, Finnair’s director of corporate sustainability, the development is part of Finnair’s “Design for All” practice. “We would like to take these kinds of considerations into account whenever we start designing services, not introduce them later as add-ons,” she says.

BETTER PLANET Finnair’s sustainability strategy is built on three principles – cleaner, caring, and collaborative.

DO GOOD Finnair Plus members can make point donations via finnairshop.com to • The Finnish Association for Nature Conservation • Crisis Management Initiative (CMI) • The Association of Friends of the University Children’s Hospitals • The Cancer Society of Finland • The Finnish Red Cross • UNICEF Finland • Hope • UN Women

90+ YEARS AND COUNTING 1923

1924

1947

1952

1968

1969

1980

1992

Finnair, known as Aero, was founded

Finnair receives its first aircraft: Junkers F 13

Finnair air hostesses take to the skies

Helsinki Airport opens

Finnair reveals its new logo and name change

First Finnair trans-Atlantic flight to New York City

Blue Wings launches

The Finnair Plus program is introduced

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World of Finnair Fleet

AIRBUS A350-900 Number 11 + 8 on order Seating capacity 297 Length 66.8 m Wingspan 64.75 m Cruising speed 903 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 13,000 m AIRBUS A330-300 Number 8 Seating capacity 289/263 Length 63.6 m Wingspan 60.3 m Cruising speed 870 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,600 m AIRBUS A321 (ER) Number 18 Seating capacity 196–209 Length 44.5 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A320 Number 10 Seating capacity 165 Length 37.6 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A319 Number 8 Seating capacity 138 Length 33.8 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m EMBRAER 190 Operated by Norra Number 12 Seating capacity 100 Length 36.2 m Wingspan 28.7 m Cruising speed 850 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,300 m

1995

1997

1999

2004

2013

2014

2015

2017

Finnair’s website launches

Finnair joins oneworld alliance

Arrival of ­ irbus A320 A

Online check-in opens

Launch of Marimekko for Finnair collection

Finnair celebrates its 90th anniversary

Arrival of ­ irbus A350 A

Finnair celebrates Finland’s centenary UNDER THE

NORT HER N SKIES – 100 STORIES CELEBRATING

FLYING –

| VIEW FROM THE COCKPIT | KING | STYLE IN THE CRAB FLIES CARGO SKIES | DISCOVERIES | WELCOME TO WITH | FINNISH SNOW-HOW NOBEL LAUREATE BENGT HOLMSTRÖM HEL | | BEHIND THE SCENES | LOVE IN THE AIR | AT THE AIRPORT |

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U.S. C A NA DA

UNI TED STATES

Miami

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Plata Santo Domingo

BR AZIL

Finnair Destinations New Finnair Destinations 2018

FLIGHTS WITHIN EUROPE Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km AMSTERDAM 1525 02:35 ALANYA/GAZIPASA 2722 03:45 ALICANTE 3034 04:25 ARRECIFE 4518 05:55 ATHENS 2490 03:40 BARCELONA 2632 03:55 BERGEN 1112 03:30 BERLIN 1123 02:00 BIARRITZ 2581 03:45 BILLUND 1060 01:50 BRUSSELS 1651 02:40 BUDAPEST 1481 02:20 CATANIA 2636 03:45 CHANIA 2756 03:50 COPENHAGEN 895 01:40 CORFU 2329 03:25 DALAMAN 2639 03:40 DUBLIN 2030 03:10 DUBROVNIK 2027 03:00 DÜSSELDORF 1512 02:25 EDINBURGH 1717 02:40 EILAT 3457 04:45 EKATERINBURG 2098 03:05 FRANKFURT 1543 02:35 FUERTEVENTURA 4578 06:05 FUNCHAL 4310 05:45 GDANSK 768 02:00

FROM HELSINKI

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Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km GENEVA 1994 03:00 GOTHENBURG 785 01:25 HAMBURG 1172 02:00 HERAKLION 2777 03:55 IBIZA 2897 04:00 INNSBRUCK 1701 02:35 KAZAN 1521 02:30 KOS 2620 03:45 KRAKOW 1186 02:00 LAS PALMAS 4700 06:10 LISBON 3369 04:50 LJUBLJANA 1713 02:40 LONDON 1863 03:10 MADRID 2950 04:25 MALAGA 3357 04:35 MALTA 2822 04:15 MANCHESTER 1817 03:00 MENORCA 2688 04:05 MILAN 1953 03:05 MOSCOW 876 01:40 MUNICH 1577 02:30 MYTILENE 1471 03:35 NAPLES 2283 03:25 NICE 2202 03:25 OSLO 766 01:30 PALMA DE MALLORCA 2777 04:00 PAPHOS 2898 04:00

FROM HELSINKI

FEBRUARY 2018

Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km PARIS 1900 03:05 PISA 2093 03:20 PRAGUE 1322 02:10 PREVEZA 2397 03:25 PULA 1865 02:55 REYKJAVIK 2429 03:50 RHODES 2668 03:45 RIGA 382 00:55 RIMINI 1993 03:00 ROME 2235 03:25 SALZBURG 1592 02:30 SAMARA 1698 02:35 SANTORINI 2660 03:40 SKIATHOS 2353 03:30 SPLIT 1956 02:55 STOCKHOLM 400 01:00 ST. PETERSBURG 301 01:00 STUTTGART 1637 02:45 TALLINN 101 00:30 TARTU 245 00:50 TEL AVIV 3230 04:25 TENERIFE NORTE 4691 06:10 TENERIFE SUR 4745 06:10 TROMSØ 1078 01:55 VARNA 1911 02:55 VENICE 1847 02:55 VERONA 1903 02:55

FROM HELSINKI

Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km VIENNA 1462 02:30 VILNIUS 633 01:15 VISBY 481 01:25 WARSAW 940 01:40 ZAKYNTHOS 2526 03:55 ZÜRICH 1781 02:45

FROM HELSINKI

Tromsø Ivalo Kittilä Rovaniemi Ivalo Kuusamo Kemi Oulu Kittilä Kajaani Rovaniemi Kokkola Kuusamo Vaasa Kuopio Kemi Jyväskylä Joensuu Oulu Tampere MarieKajaani Kokkola hamn Turku Kuopio Bergen Vaasa Jyväskylä Joensuu Saint Petersburg Tartu Tampere Gothenburg Turku Visby Mariehamn Bergen Billund Edinburgh Tartu Manchester Minsk Gothenburg Visby Gdansk Billund Hamburg Edinburgh Kazan Düsseldorf Minsk Gdansk Frankfurt Manchester Hamburg Krakow Tromsø

RU S S I A Ekaterinburg

Kazan Ekaterinburg

Stuttgart Salzburg Zürich Düsseldorf Innsbruck Frankfurt Geneve Krakow Verona Ljubljana Stuttgart Venice Salzburg Rimini Pula Zürich Innsbruck Nice Pisa Biarritz Split Ljubljana Dubrovnik Geneve Venice Verona Pula Nice Naples Rimini Biarritz Pisa Ibiza Split Menorca Corfu Dubrovnik Skiathos Preveza Palma de Mytilene Alicante Mallorca Zakynthos Kos Dalaman Naples Catania Menorca Santorini Rhodes Alanya Corfu Ibiza Valletta Skiathos Chania Preveza Palma de Heraklion Mytilene Paphos Alicante Zakynthos Mallorca Kos Dalaman Catania Santorini Funchal Rhodes Alanya Chania Heraklion Paphos Eilat Arrecife

Tenerif Norte Fuerteventura Tenerif Sur Las Palmas Arrecife Norte f Sur Fuerteventura Las Palmas

chal

RUSSI A

UZBEKISTAN

C HI NA CH I N A

Nagoya

Xian Nagoya Nanjing

Xian Nanjing

Chongqing Fukuoka

Fukuoka

Osaka

Osaka

Thimphu Chongqing

Eilat

Dubai Dubai

Vientiane

Goa Goa

Addis Ababa

Phuket

Krabi

Krabi Phuket

AUSTR ALIA AU S TR ALIA

DOMESTIC FLIGHTS Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km IVALO 931 01:35 JOENSUU 360 01:00 JYVÄSKYLÄ 235 00:50 KAJAANI 464 01:20 MARIEHAMN 282 00:55 KEMI/TORNIO 609 01:35 KITTILÄ 823 01:25 KOKKOLA/PIETARSAARI 391 01:10 KUOPIO 335 01:00 KUUSAMO 667 01:15 OULU 514 01:05 ROVANIEMI 697 01:20 TAMPERE 143 00:35 TURKU 150 00:35 VAASA 348 00:55

FROM HELSINKI

INTERCONTINENTAL FLIGHTS WINTER SEASON 2017–2018: FINNAIR ADDS FLIGHTS TO POPULAR WINTER DESTINATIONS IN LAPLAND, INCLUDING NEW NON-STOP FLIGHTS FROM LONDON, PARIS, AND ZÜRICH LONDON GATWICK – IVALO 2 WEEKLY FLIGHTS LONDON GATWICK – KITTILÄ 1 WEEKLY FLIGHT PARIS – KITTILÄ 1 WEEKLY FLIGHT ZÜRICH – KITTILÄ 1 WEEKLY FLIGHT

Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km BANGKOK 7912 09:45 BEIJING 6325 07:55 CHICAGO 7139 09:15 CHONGQING 6736 08:40 DELHI 5229 06:50 DUBAI 4537 05:55 FUKUOKA 8060 09:30 GOA 6328 08:50 GUANGZHOU 7693 09:30 HAVANA 8703 11:15 HÔ CHI MINH CITY (Saigon) 8510 10:50 HONG KONG 7821 09:35 KRABI 8350 10:20 MIAMI 8342 11:10 NAGOYA 7780 09:40

FROM HELSINKI

Great Circle Estimated Flight Distances Times km NANJING 7165 09:35 NEW YORK 6626 08:45 OSAKA 7751 09:30 PHUKET 8312 10:05 PUERTO VALLARTA 9960 12:30 PUERTO PLATA 8410 11:15 SAN FRANCISCO 8724 10:45 SEOUL 7050 08:40 SHANGHAI 7410 09:05 SINGAPORE 9272 11:30 TOKYO 7849 09:45 XIAN 6421 07:50

FROM HELSINKI

FEBRUARY 2018

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NEW ROUTE TO LYON T H E N O R D I C WAY

A FASCINATING MIX OF FOOD AND CULTURE IS WAITING FOR YOU.

Experience the true French art of living in Lyon next summer. This beautiful city has everything that makes life worthwhile: amazing food, high-quality wines, vibrant culture and interesting people. Finnair offers two direct flights from Helsinki to Lyon every week starting on 11 December 2018. Book your flights at finnair.com

World of Finnair Airport info

55

53

54

52 SOUTH PIER GATES 54–55

2ND FLOOR

BUS GATES 51 A–D

34

NONSCHENGEN AREA

FINNAIR LOUNGE FINNAIR PREMIUM LOUNGE

T2

33 GROUND FLOOR

BUS GATES 50 A–M

Security control

NONSCHENGEN AREA

32 32a

Welcome to Helsinki Airport

2ND FLOOR

31x 31

TRANSFER SERVICE 3

Border control

31a-e 30

SCHENGEN AREA

Border control

Security check

CHECK YOUR GATE and departure time on the airport monitors. All Finnair and Nordic Regional Airlines (Norra) departures are located in the same terminal. If you do not have a boarding pass for your connecting flight, please contact the transfer service desks in T2.

CHECK IN 101–114

GATE AREA

29

1ST FLOOR

28

T2

CHECK-IN 240–270

27 GATE AREA

FINNAIR CHECK IN/ SERVICE DESKS 201–229

2ND FLOOR

HAPPY LANDINGS

26 TRANSFER SERVICE 2

Security check

TRANSFER SERVICE 1

HELSINKI AIRPORT has 35 automated border control gates for travellers flying to or from destinations outside of the Schengen area. Fifteen are located in the departure hall; 15 are located in the upstairs arrival hall; another five are available in the downstairs arrival hall (for EU/EEA/CH citizens only).

Passengers from the EU, EEA, CH, Japan, and South Korea with biometric passports can use the automated border control gates. Australian, Canadian, New Zealand, and U.S. citizens with biometric passports may use the automated border control upon departure only. All other nationalities must use the manned border control booths in the departure and arrival halls.

Those passengers travelling with infants, baggage trolleys, or wheelchairs must use the manual control lane.

25

Security check

11

24 12

13

14

15

16 17 18 19

20

21

22

23

PHARMACY

T1

TOURIST INFO BAGGAGE STORAGE

GROUND FLOOR

THE FINNAIR CITY BUS to the Helsinki Railway Station leaves from T2 every 20 minutes, stopping also at T1.

Travel time is approx. 30 minutes. €6.30

FINNAIR LOUNGE 3RD FLOOR

1ST FLOOR

WIRELESS INTERNET Helsinki Airport offers free Wi-Fi throughout the airport.

PLAYROOM Children’s playrooms offer toys, videos, and baby care facilities.

NON-SMOKING Smoking is prohibited outside of designated smoking rooms.

THE RING RAIL LINE connects Helsinki Airport to downtown Helsinki via train. There is direct access from the corridor between T1 and T2.

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FINLAND FACTS Nature

75%

land covered by forests

188,000 lakes

Government

1917

Sovereign parliamentary republic

1995 Monthly temperatures in Helsinki (2016):

area

390,908km2

Member of EU since January 1995

200 members

elected for four-year terms

Parliament

land used for agriculture

Population

Languages SÁ

5.5

million

SE

FI

whooper swan

Economy

elected every six years; current president is Sauli Niinistö who took office in March 2012

Education

Universities

GDP

(2016*)

€216 billion

the annual change in volume 1.9% *preliminary

88% speak Finnish 5.3% speak Swedish 0.04% speak Sámi

President

Currency

EURO

71% of students

who have ­studied beyond basic ­education

Consumption of coffee per capita

Fun facts

9.9kg

12.3 l

356,000*

National food: rye bread 98

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Ice cream consumed per capita

FEBRUARY 2018

2,000,000* saunas *estimate

overnight stays by foreign travellers (Oct 2017) *preliminary

Source: Statistics Finland Illustration: Angelina Luzhina

7%

National bird:

LOMATEEMANA

RANTALEIKIT SUOMEN KIELELLÄ Parasta perheelle -lomateemamme tarjoaa lapsellesi iloista tekemistä ja uusia ystäviä suomenkielisessä Aurinkoklubissa sekä vaivattomat Finnairin suorat lennot.

PARASTA PERHEELLE

Löydä sinulle sopivin loma uusista Lomateemoistamme aurinkomatkat.fi