Blue Wings Food issue November 2014

ECO KIDSWEAR INNOVATIONS

Food issue

HELSINKI’S ARTISAN CHEESES

EXPLORING OMAN

PORTUGAL’S BEST-KEPT SECRET

Trends, destinations and insights for travellers • November 2014

Your l na perso y cop

THE ASIAN

GOURMET BOOM AT HOME IN

BORNEO’S JUNGLE HOW TO BRAVE

THE COLD

Revamping xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Marimekko xxxxxxx

THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE.

ROYAL OAK DIAMOND SET IN STEEL.

EDITORIAL

BY PEKKA VAURAMO CEO OF FINNAIR WWW.FINNAIR.COM

Award-winning Finnish chefs Matti Wikberg and Tomi Björck have brought Asian fine dining to Helsinki.

PRODUCER Amanda Soila ART DIRECTOR Sirpa Ärmänen SUB-EDITOR Anna-Maria Wasenius

CONTENT MANAGER Kati Heikinheimo ENGLISH EDITING Silja Kudel and Laura Palotie REPROGRAPHICS Anne Lindfors, Tuukka Palmio ENGLISH TRANSLATION Wif Stenger SUBMISSIONS bluewings@sanoma.com EDITORIAL OFFICES Lapinmäentie 1, 00350 Helsinki, Finland, Postal address P.O.Box 100, 00040 Sanoma, Finland, tel. +358 9 1201, fax +358 9 120 5988, e-mail firstname.lastname@headofficefinland.fi ADVERTISING SALES Media Assistant Sirkka Pulkkinen tel. +358 9 120 5921 PUBLISHER Head Office Finland PRINTED BY Hansaprint, Turku, Finland 2014 PAPER UPM Valor 61g Cover paper Stora Enso LumiArt 200g CIRCULATION 60,000 ISSN-0358-7703

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Arja Suominen arja.suominen@finnair.com FINNAIR HEAD OFFICE Tietotie 9 A, Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, 1053 Finnair, Finland, tel. +358 9 81881, Postal address: P. O. Box 15, 01053 Finnair, Finland CUSTOMER FEEDBACK www.finnair.com > Information and services > After the flight or by mail: Customer Relations, SL/08, FI-01053 FINNAIR. www.finnair.com www.finnair.fi www.finnairgroup.com

TOMMI ANTTONEN

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Pia Hytönen

Eat, drink and be merry

W

hether we travel for business or leisure, we always need to find something to eat and drink. No matter where we are, there are different flavours to savour from the treats found in a Krakow bakery to the Asian fusion cuisine served in top restaurants around the world (see our feature starting on p.28).

The theme of this issue is food and wine, which neatly coincides with a number of new culinary developments at Finnair.

We have just announced a new partnership with Finland’s leading restaurants – Nokka, G.W. Sundmans, Savoy and Fishmarket – to design Signature Menus in long-haul Business Class. These meals – served on board from the end of January 2015 – will offer passengers unique tastes and memories of Finland.

In Economy Class on European flights, we are also close to launching Sky Bistro, a wide selection of seasonal, high-quality hot meals – available to buy on board or pre-order at Finnair.com – that replaces the complimentary cold snack service. Customer interest has been strong and we’re looking forward to having fun with some of these items. My personal favourite is the Lapland-inspired “Survival Kit” – a reindeer platter with beer and a take-home pocket compass.

Enjoy your travels and your meals on board, Pekka Vauramo CEO

NOVEMBER 2014

18

28

18

MARIMEKKO MAKEOVER

28

SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT ASIAN FUSION

38

TOP 5 BAKERIES IN KRAKOW

42

LONGHOUSE LODGING IN BORNEO

48

EXPERIENCE OMAN

58

NEW RUSSIAN DESTINATION

62

THE BREAD BASKET OF PORTUGAL

74

HOW TO GEAR UP FOR COLD WEATHER

Top designers are recreating the iconic brand

European chefs look east for inspiration

Where to taste the best Polish treats

Staying with an entire village under one roof

From sandboarding to dolphin watching in the Arabian Gulf

Take an insider tour of the little-known city of Nizhny Novgorod

The best of culture and cuisine flourishes in rustic Alentejo

The right materials can make our frigid winters toasty warm

74 ON THE COVER: TEEMU MUURIMÄKI BY SUSA JUNNOLA

XX

TRAVEL COLUMNS 8

10

12

14

16

NEWS

RESPONSIBILITY

STARTUPS

WINES

HELSINKI

Getting ready for Slush

Buy a piece of wilderness

Organic kids’ clothing boom

Luxury champagne beyond vintages

An artisan micro-cheesery

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NOVEMBER 2014

IN THIS ISSUE

REGULARS

Indonesia, p. 6 Helsinki, p. 16 Tokyo, p. 28 Krakow, p. 38 Borneo, p. 42 Oman, p. 48 Nizhny Novgorod, p. 58 Alentejo, p. 62

6

TRAVEL MOMENT

40

ALEXANDER STUBB

56

TIINA ROSENBERG

69

THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD

80

FINLAND IN FIGURES

42

48

FLYING FINNAIR

62 New border crossings

82

Before and during the flight

83

In-flight entertainment

85

Helsinki Airport

86

Maps and destinations

88

Corporate responsibility

92

Fleet

94

Frequent flyer benefits

95

NOVEMBER 2014

BLUE WINGS

5

TRAVEL MOMENT

BY ANDREW TAYLOR

INDONESIAN STREET FOOD The colourful and friendly streets of Yogyakarta, Indonesia, are ripe with vendors selling tasty and cheap street food. Rice-noodle and meatball soup (bakso), fried chicken (ayam goreng) and

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soya cakes (tempeh) are popular choices.

But the national favourite of grilled chicken satay sticks and rice in banana leaves will likely be the snack you keep coming back for.

NOVEMBER 2014

BLUE WINGS

7

TRAVEL NEWS

COMPILED BY KATJA PANTZAR PHOTOS BY SAMI HEISKANEN AND FINNAIR

AIR-TO-RAIL TO SAINT PETERSBURG

Helsinki’s Slush draws more than 10,000 visitors from the startup world each November.

START-UP FEVER

F

innair is one of the main partners for Slush, the leading international startup event that brings together tech talent, investors, executives and media from around the world to Helsinki.

This year’s speakers include high profile names from Japan such as ecommerce company Rakuten founder Hiroshi Mikitani and online entertainment company GungHo creator and chairman Taizo Son. Finnair is flying some of the participants to Helsinki and also helping Slush embark on an Asian tour.

“We’ve been carrying Finnish knowhow and entrepreneurship to the world for many years,” says Finnair’s chief operating officer Ville Iho. “Slush represents the same kind of positive and fresh challenger attitude that we at Finnair want to uphold.”

According to Slush CEO Miki Kuusi, “this year we’re organising more than 100 local Slush events at start-up hotspots around the world and visiting dozens of international technology conferences. Finnair makes this possible. We’re also flying the most promising start-ups from many cities in Europe and Asia to Slush here in Helsinki,” he adds.

Owing to popular demand, Slush will be held at a larger venue – the Helsinki Exhibition and Convention Centre – this year, as the two-day conference is expected to attract more than 10,000 visitors from 70 countries.

Slush, November 18–19 Helsinki Exhibition and Convention Centre SLUSH.ORG

LOUNGE NEWS The revamped Finnair Lounge in the Schengen Terminal above gates 23 and 26 (the entrance is next to gate 22) is now open daily from 5:30 am to midnight, with final touches to be completed by mid-November. The new, larger space features seating for 288 people, two new shower suites, a small play area for children, and a variety of different areas for work and rest. Designed by Vertti Kivi & Co, the Finnair Lounge is free of charge for all Finnair Plus tier

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members and oneworld Emerald and Sapphire cardholders when departing on a Finnair flight.

At Finnair’s Premium Lounge in the nonSchengen terminal between gates 36 and 37, a new Finnish sauna is now open for Finnair Plus Platinum and Gold members and oneworld Emerald and Sapphire card holders, and other Finnair Lounge guests.

FINNAIR.COM

As of December 1, Finnair and Finnish railway operator VR will be offering combined air-and-rail tickets between Saint Petersburg and international destinations connecting via Helsinki. Combined tickets will enable travellers flying with Finnair’s network in Europe, Asia and North America to connect to and from Saint Petersburg on the high-speed Allegro train, which takes 3 hours and 36 minutes between Helsinki’s Central Railway Station and Saint Petersburg’s Finland Station.

FINNAIR.COM

NEW SUMMER ROUTE TO SPLIT Finnair will fly a new route to the Croatian city of Split on the Dalmatian coast from May 5 to October 3, 2015.

EUROPE’S BEST AIRLINE FINNAIR has been named the Best European Airline for the second year at the annual TTG Travel Awards.

Parhaalle ei ole vaihtoehtoa.

Uusi C-sarja.

C 180, autoveroton hinta alk. 33 250 € + arvioitu autovero 7 454,77 € + toimituskulut 600 € = 41 304,77 €.

Vapaa autoetu alk. 805 €/kk, käyttöetu alk. 625 €/kk. CO2-päästöt 116 g/km, EU-keskikulutus 5,0 l/100 km.

Huolenpitosopimus 3 vuodeksi kiinteällä kk-maksulla alk. 28 €/kk. Kuvan autot lisävarustein.

Verovapaa hinta alk. 26 814,52 € + toimituskulut 600 € = 27 414,52 €. **Verovapaa vientihinta on kotimaan hinnaston autoveroton hinta ilman alv:tä. Lisätietoja osoitteesta www.mercedes-benz.fi/taxfree.

Mercedes-Benz – Suomen myydyin tax free -auto 2013* Uusi C-sarja tax free -hinta alk. 27 415 €** Mikäli olet lähdössä ulkomaille pidemmäksi aikaa tai jo asut siellä, voit hankkia uuden, verovapaan auton Suomesta.

Vehon Tax Free -myyntipalvelu on tässä kohtaa paras kumppani.

Saat verovapaan ja edullisen hinnan lisäksi luotettavan palvelun sekä Suomen varusteet ja vientirekisteröinnin valmiina. *Lähde: Liikenteen Turvallisuusvirasto Trafi/vientirekisteröinnit 2013.

Tax Free and Diplomat sales: Kimmo Liljedahl, p. +358 (0)10 569 3460 Mäkituvantie 3, Koivuhaka, 01510 Vantaa, Finland taxfree@veho.

TRAVEL RESPONSIBILITY

BY FRAN WEAVER PHOTO BY ISTOCKPHOTO

For less than 80 euros per square metre, you can buy a small parcel of land in Finnish Lapland.

EXOTIC WILDERNESS FOR SALE

N

ature-lovers can acquire their very own small plot of arctic, desert or rainforest habitat through a scheme recently launched in Finland.

“We started mainly for fun, to give people personal connections with different parts of the world,” says Geocollectors chairman Jukka Järvinen. “But there’s also a serious crowd-sourcing conservation side, since sharing such areas among so many owners makes it impossible for them to be used for plantations, mines or other development.”

For less than 80 euros per square metre, anyone can buy a small parcel of land acquired by the Geocollectors organi-

sation. Collectors receive a proprietor’s package containing legal deeds, property coordinates and a gift such as a local stone. They may visit their new landholdings, but not use them commercially. Geocollectors are also invited to join social media communities to exchange ideas and view images of their shared natural assets.

“We already own a wild area in Finnish Lapland, and we’re now looking to acquire plots of rainforest in Brazil, the Moroccan Sahara and any other suitable areas around the world,” says Järvinen.

GEOCOLLECTORS.COM

BACK A BUDDING AFRICAN BUSINESS Another way to build a special link with a faraway place is to join Deki, a groundbreaking ethical microloan scheme.

Through this innovative charity you can directly lend small sums of money to hard-working small-scale entrepreneurs to help them start or improve their business.

You could choose to help a Malawian carpenter to buy new tools for his workshop, a single mother in South Sudan to

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set up a street food stall outside her home, or a Ghanaian farmer to buy fertiliser and crop seeds.

The interest-free microloans are typically repaid into lenders’ Deki accounts within a year. You can then withdraw the money, or choose another entrepreneur to support.

DEKI.ORG.UK

VOLUNTOURIST TIPS Volunteer holidays are rapidly gaining popularity among people who want to use their skills or energy to achieve something useful in an exotic destination.

Voluntourists pay handsomely for the chance to work hard, but the experience adds a feel-good factor to their holiday.

1. THE ENVIRONMENTAL CHARITY Earthwatch enlists volunteer scientific research assistants. Spend your holiday observing chimpanzee behaviour in Uganda, protecting sea turtle eggs in Costa Rica, or on an archaeological dig in Mongolia.

EU.EARTHWATCH.ORG

2. THE PROJECTS ABROAD scheme offers volunteer placements around the world in workplaces ranging from children’s homes and clinics to community farms and construction projects.

PROJECTS-ABROAD.FI

3. THE ETHICAL VOLUNTEERING website provides useful tips for wouldbe volunteers keen to assess whether such ventures are truly responsible.

ETHICALVOLUNTEERING.ORG

The Finest Clothing for Men in Finland

TRAVEL STARTUPS

COMPILED BY KATI HEIKINHEIMO PHOTO BY NOSH ORGANICS

WATCH OUT FOR THESE DIGITAL UPCOMERS IN THE FAMILY SECTOR:

Nosh Organics uses certified organic cotton and non-toxic dyes.

DRESSING ORGANIC AN INCREASING NUMBER OF PARENTS WANT TO TREAT THEIR CHILDREN WITH THE MOST COMFORTABLE, TOXIN-FREE CLOTHING AVAILABLE.

M

odern Finnish startups offer more than just tech gadgets for 20-somethings. As strong demand for quality kids wear spans beyond the Nordic countries, brands such as Beibamboo, Melli and Nosh Organics rely on functionality, ecofriendliness and zesty designs.

To Hanna Rannila, creator of Nosh Organics and mother of three, success came as a surprise. “When I founded the company five years ago, I had a hunch that there would be other parents who share my values when it comes to choosing clothes for their kids. But I couldn’t imagine that the business would develop so fast,” she says.

Nosh Organics uses certified organic cotton and non-toxic dyes. Production takes place in Europe and is monitored to ensure social and environmental responsibility. Rannila personally designs all the models and cheerful patterns.

The company now has up to 70 resellers in northern and central Europe and the products are mainly sold through homesale parties and the company webshop.

“The Tupperware-style approach enables customers to feel out the product quality first-hand and discover the principles our activity is based on,” says Rannila.

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TINY ESSENTIALS A niche within a niche is clothing for prematurely born babies. Paper-thin skin, a need for warmth as well as the number of tubes and wires necessary set special needs for preemie wear. One forerunner in this field is Beibamboo, whose award-winning designs are used in homes and hospitals around the world.

Another Finnish player on the preemie sector is Melli EcoDesign. The brand seeks to differentiate itself by investing in a completely Finnish manufacture chain from design to production.

“Even the sewing threads, zippers and packaging materials are locally made,” says CEO Marica Jensen.

In addition to babies, Melli EcoDesign’s target group is children up to school age who have sensitive, atopy-prone skin. As for Nosh Organics products, demand has surpassed targets. The markets in northern and central Europe look particularly promising.

More information: NOSH.FI/ BEIBAMBOO.COM MELLIECODESIGN.COM

CAPTURE MAGIC MOMENTS Why is it so hard to remember to fill out that baby book? Because it’s never at hand when those magic moments take place. KiDMEMO solves this problem with its online service and iPhone application. All family members can conveniently document baby’s first steps, write down comical quotes and upload photos of their little pride and joy.

After the year has passed, it’s possible to print out a high-quality hardcover book of memories. KiDMEMO is available in several languages, including English.

KIDMEMO.COM

LONG-DISTANCE MEDICAL CARE A two-year-old with an acute case of an ear infection and a 50-mile ride to the closest medical centre? Meedoc brings the doctor to your home via video call, offering diagnosis, treatment, and prescriptions sent to your nearest pharmacy.

This award-winning Finnish service is also an alternative for trying out the local healthcare system when a child (or adult) falls ill abroad. Available in English, Finnish and Swedish.

MEEDOC.COM

LADATTAVA HYBRIDI 4WD Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV on maailman ensimmäinen ladattava nelivetoinen hybridimaasturi ja ladattavien hybridien markkinajohtaja Suomessa.

Suomen myydyin ladattava hybridi Sähköajomatka jopa 52 km Tilava ja hyvin varusteltu 5 vuoden takuu Yli 9 000 € energiatuki leasingasiakkaalle

Outlander PHEV-malliston hinnat alkaen: autoveroton hinta 45 839,32 € + arvioitu autovero 4 155,68 € = kokonaishinta 49 995 €. CO2-päästöt 44 g/km, EU-yhdistetty kulutus 1,9 l/100 km. Mitsubishi-henkilöautojen takuu 5 vuotta tai 150 000 kilometriä, kaksi ensimmäistä vuotta ilman kilometrirajaa. Mitsubishin MAP-ajoturvapalvelu 3 vuodeksi veloituksetta. Kuvan auto erikoisvarustein.

TRAVEL WINE

COMPILED BY AMANDA SOILA PHOTOS BY KRUG AND JOUNI HARALA

Krug’s Grande Cuvée is blended from about 120 wines from ten or more years.

Essi Avellan recommends a tulip-shaped champagne glass.

BLENDING

SKIP THE FLUTES

THE BUBBLY

T

he wine world has a preoccupation with vintages, but when it comes to champagne, most producers discard the notion. Many of the best champagnes are “non-vintage,” meaning that they are blended from multiple vintages.

This ensures consistent quality from year to year.

“The advantage of non-vintage champagnes is early enjoyability and steady quality,” says Finnish champagne expert Essi Avellan. “By using a multitude of different base wines from numerous vintages it is possible to craft great harmony and complexity to the champagnes.”

The blends may consist of only one to three varieties, but dozens or even hundreds of individual base wines. In the case of some of the more prestigous champagnes, blending is considered an art form. One of these is Krug, whose Grande Cuvée, sometimes dubbed the king of champagnes, represents a blend of around 120 wines from ten or more years, some of which may reach 15 years of age.

“No crop can offer everything, so we add elements from previous years,” says Olivier Krug, a sixth-generation member of the famous champagne house. He works with a team of cellar masters to cre-

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Krug uses a custom-made glass that is rounder than a flute.

ate blends using Krug’s extensive “library” of reserve wines.

“We don’t work to a rulebook or a formula and we want to celebrate the differences from year to year” says Krug.

This was also the vision of Krug’s non-conformist founder Joseph Krug, who wanted to create great champagne every year regardless of annual weather variations.

The process of crafting a bottle of Grande Cuvée lasts more than 20 years.

The resulting bubbly exhibits a distinctive, deep, yellow hue and a fresh, intense taste.

Although the process is complicated, the champagne house always aims for an approachable result. “Champagne is supposed to be about generosity and pleasure.

You don’t need to be an expert to enjoy or understand it,” says Krug.

Tall, slender flutes are the most popular glasses for imbibing bubbly, but champagne expert Essi Avellan recommends opting for a wider alternative.

“With champagne glasses the most important feature is the large size and tulip-like shape, which collects the aromas to the mouth of the glass, allowing you to get more out of the wine,” she says. “I particularly like the Lehmann Grand champagne glass, designed by champagne’s best sommelier, Philippe Jamesse. It’s wonderfully light and thin, and it lets you get more out of any champagne.”

Some of the big champagne houses are also disregarding flutes in favour of bigger glasses that bring out scents and aromas. Krug, for example, uses a custom-made glass called Joseph, after the company’s founder. Designed by Riedel, it is thinner than a red wine glass but rounder than a flute.

ESSI AVELLAN’S FIVE NON-VINTAGE FAVOURITES 1. Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve 2. Louis Roederer Brut Premier 3. Ruinart R 4. Taittinger Brut Réserve 5. Pol Roger Brut

Viivan alle ei jää numeroita.

Sinne jää rahaa.

Haluatko enemmän kannattavia asiakkaita, jotka tekevät isompia keskiostoksia?

Vai oletko ennemminkin kiinnostunut rahankierron nopeuttamisesta, vuolaammasta kassavirrasta ja luottotappioiden pienentämisestä? Kiinnostaako kustannustehokkuus ja pääomien sekä resurssien vapautuminen liiketoimintaan? Vai sykkiikö sydämesi asiakaspalvelun parantamiselle ja asiakastyytyväisyyden kasvattamiselle?

Kyse on sinun rahoistasi

Ota yhteyttä • myynti.fi@lindorff.com • puh. 010 2700 700 • www.lindorff.fi

TRAVEL HELSINKI

COMPILED BY SILJA KUDEL PHOTO BY JARMO ÖSTERMAN

ARTISAN CHEESE ON A ROLL

A CHEESE WITH A GREAT STORY TO TELL IS THE CROWNING GLORY OF ANY GREAT DINNER PARTY. AND THE TALE OF HELSINGIN MEIJERILIIKE IS A TASTY ONE.

R

“

oquefort, Stilton… many cheeses are named after their birthplace.

We’re the only micro-cheesery in Helsinki, so I wanted to name our products after local spots that reflect the personality of each cheese,” says Antti Alavuotunki, founder of Helsingin Meijeriliike. The former engineer fulfilled a long-standing dream to become a cheesemaker while doing postgraduate research on food processes.

With the local food movement gaining groundswell, many foodies are willing to pay a little extra for an artisanal cheese that packs an extra punch. “You certainly don’t get flavours like this anywhere else,” promises Alavuotunki.

Many are raving about Linnunlaulu, a light white-walled cheese with an airy character evoking the nonchalance of the

leafy villa district. Klippan – its “highsociety version” – is a rich, creamy treat taking its name from the posh coastal island. Jätkäsaari is a Port Salut with the robust quality of the ’50s dockyards, and the left-wing district of Hakaniemi lends its name to an earthy, red-walled cheese “that smells like hard work.”

“Our stronger cheeses, Hakaniemi and Jätkäsaari, are perfect with bread and wine.

Linnunlaulu is an ideal picnic cheese, and Klippan tastes superb with rose petal jam,” he says.

Artisanal cheeses from Helsingin Meijeriliike are available at local food markets, Stockmann department stores and selected well-stocked supermarkets – but only in Helsinki.

HELSINGINMEIJERILIIKE.FI/

HELSINKI HIGHLIGHTS THIS MONTH EAT THE STREETS Cupcakes on every corner, pulled pork in the park – if only every day could be Restaurant Day. Helsinki is the birthplace of this global food carnival now celebrated four times a year in hundreds of cities. Sample street eats or open your own eatery for a day. Discover the coolest spots near you using the new online map service.

November 15 RESTAURANTDAY.ORG/FI/

THIS IS NOT A PIPE Don’t be alarmed if you witness unusual people displayed like rare relics in a glass case in Lasipalatsi Square. Dries Verhoeven’s Ceci n’est pas is a highlight of this year’s Baltic Circle International Theatre Festival. The eight-day performing arts laboratory brings progressive theatre to public spaces around the city.

NOVEMBER 9–16 BALTICCIRCLE.FI

The products of Helsingin Meijeriliike are named after local spots that reflect the personality of each cheese.

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TINSEL TOWN Yule be sorry to miss the annual Christmas parade on Helsinki’s high street, Aleksanterinkatu. When Santa switches on the Christmas lights at 4 pm, it’s as good an excuse as any to kick off your Christmas shopping and cork the glögi (mulled wine). The parade coincides with the opening of the Senate Square Christmas market, which runs through to January 6.

November 23

OSLO TEEMA

TEXAS

Our mission is to make the world a more comfortable place by producing long-lasting furniture in an ecologically sound way. Our both collections, Pohjanmaan and Luonto, are handcrafted with respect for Finnish carpentry traditions and the multiplicity of nature. Please, sit down and sense what quality really means.

www.pohjanmaan.com

MIXING UP

MARIMEKKO STILL SENSATIONAL AT 63, MARIMEKKO IS A MASTER OF REGENERATION. WE MEET THREE DESIGNERS WHO KEEP THE TIMELESS TEXTILE LABEL LOOKING BRAND-NEW ALL OVER AGAIN. TEXT BY SILJA KUDEL

PHOTOS BY HELI BLÅFIELD AND SUSA JUNNOLA

T

extile artist Armi Ratia put Finnish style on the world map in 1951. She created a brand with a DNA so strong that its legacy is both a blessing and a curse. Keeping it fresh can be fiddly. Change too much and you alienate the fan base, change too little and they yawn.

Bold and eye-popping was the formula that worked when Jackie Kennedy posed on the cover of Sports Illustrated in 1960. It worked again four decades later when Sarah Jessica Parker decorated her apartment with Marimekko textiles in HBO’s Sex and the City. And the magic was still there in 2011 when Converse and Marimekko unveiled their limited-edition sneaker collections. But will the world still be clamouring for Marimekko tomorrow?

More than ever – if the new creative director Anna Teurnell has anything to say about it.

The Swedish Hennes & Mauritz veteran joined Marimekko in July to revamp the collections for greater global appeal.

Without ditching the whimsy she adores about the brand, Teurnell plans to make it more “relevant, modern and desirable.” Over the next few years, the ready-to-wear category is in for some major changes, with greater emphasis on a more womanly fit and new fabrics.

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POSTER GIRL FOR SÁMI TOURISM The creative director waves the baton, but making the music sound fresh is ultimately down to Marimekko’s team of designers. Clad in embroidered felt moccasins, beaming broadly as she strides cheerfully across the showroom, Sanna Annukka, 31, could well be a poster-girl for Sámi tourism.

Born in Brighton to a Finnish mother and British father, Annukka is a disarming fusion of Nordic earthiness and the bumbling affability of actor Hugh Grant. She spent her childhood summers in northern Finland, which left a permanent mark on her design sensibility.

“I acquired a passion for all things Sámi as a young girl. The sheer sensory feast was a very powerful experience – touching the lichen and sniffing the moss. As an adult, I started researching and found out more about the brilliant folklore,” she says.

Catapulted to acclaim when British band Keane featured one of her prints on the album cover of Under the Iron Sea, Annukka has been designing for Marimekko since 2008. Her highly recognisable style – weaving together folkinspired elements and strong colours – seemed to resonate naturally with the Marimekko DNA. Working from her three-storey Victorian house near the Brighton seafront, she divides her time between designing textiles for Marimekko

Sanna Annukka and her new statement fabric, Saivu, which represents Sรกmi paradise.

NOVEMBER 2014

BLUE WINGS

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WITHOUT DITCHING THE WHIMSY, MARIMEKKO IS WORKING TO BOOST ITS SEX APPEAL.

Highlights include Taivasalla, a stylised representation of the Northern Lights, and Kota, inspired by a traditional Lapp tepee. Printed on cosy bed linen, the designs enfold the sleeper in a so-called cocoon of loveliness.

Having a Finnish mother, Annukka grew up with an ingrained appreciation for Armi Ratia’s “female fierceness.” “Marimekko’s strength comes from marrying contrasts and fusing them naturally. There’s a nod to tradition, but there’s also a very urban element: one foot in the city, one in the forest,” says Annukka.

The legendary Unikko (poppy) print designed by Maija Isola 50 years ago is described by Annukka as “the heart and soul” of the brand. “It’s what we all think of when we say Marimekko, isn’t it? I just love the story behind it – so rebellious! Under no condition was Isola to design a floral print, and then she comes out with something so radical. I want to capture that same spirit and carry it into the new millennium.”

Also available on stationery, Kukkuluuruu (peek-a-boo) celebrates northern wildlife.

Below, Saivu in blue.

20 BLUE WINGS

and working on her own range of silkscreen prints.

ONE FOOT IN THE FOREST All her collections, starting with Kalevala, draw inspiration from Finnish myth and vintage Scandinavian design. Her most recent work includes a holiday collection that again visits the landscapes of Lapland.

NOVEMBER 2014

THINKING OUTSIDE OF THE BOX “Ultra-feminine” is not an epithet commonly linked to Marimekko. But that might change now that Teemu Muurimäki, 40, joined the design team last year. Turning down offers from around the world, Muurimäki chose to return home after 12 years working for top fashion houses such as Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta and Armani.

Patting his pint-sized Prague Ratter, Jasper – a souvenir from Sydney, where he worked with top designer Carla Zampatti – Muurimäki shares why he decided to bring his fashion savvy back to his homeland. “I wanted to be close to my family. And it was always my secret wish to work for Marimekko. Here I’m a bigger fish in a smaller ocean,” he says, with a soft laugh.

Describing “drapey” as his signature style,

DRIVEN BY BIOFORE The Biofore Concept Car challenges conventions in car manufacturing.

The majority of the parts traditionally made from plastic are replaced with advanced biomaterials without compromising quality and safety.

Created by a new generation of talent from Helsinki Metropolia University of Applied Sciences with next generation biomaterials by UPM – The Biofore Company. This is a car that drives real sustainable change. www.bioforeconceptcar.upm.com

UPM BioVerno is a wood-based

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Teemu Muurimäki and his fresh takes on Fandango, a print designed by Maija Isola in 1962.

Muurimäki looks forward to working with Teurnell to renew the Marimekko look, which has sometimes drawn harsh criticism for its unflatteringly boxy cuts.

“I want to celebrate the feminine silhouette with a look that isn’t overtly sexy, but feminine,” he says.

Form-fitting cuts and soft, fluid materials such as silk are hoped to enhance the brand’s sex appeal.

“Next spring you’ll also be seeing a lot of crêpe and new textures.”

When asked whether he ever feels straightjacketed by the Marimekko legacy, Muurimäki demurs.

“Of course I have to express the DNA in my designs, but I find it liberating. It’s more inspiring than the nightmare of staring at a blank page,” he replies.

PROUSTIAN PRINTS Muurimäki’s earliest memory of Marimekko was a striped nightgown he and his twin brother gave

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NOVEMBER 2014

their mother for Mother’s Day. “It’s funny to see all the prints from my childhood at the head office. I think: ‘Hey, mum wore that when I was a kid. It’s a strong emotional connection.”

His first contribution to Marimekko was a minicollection of editorial gowns marking the 50th anniversary of the Unikko. Highlights of his first ‘real’ collection – unveiled this autumn – include textured dresses and jackets featuring Isola’s iconic Fandango in purple, grey and red.

Working in a diva-free environment is a welcome reprieve for Muurimäki, who begins each workday by sharing porridge with his colleagues at the Herttoniemi factory, a tradition started by Armi Ratia.

“My 12 years abroad taught me that that I have to work in a job that I love, with colleagues that greet me with a smile. The bigger the fashion house, the moodier the boss,” he says.

FINNAIR’S POPPY LOVE ON OCTOBER 23 Finnair paid its own special tribute to the 50-year-old Unikko by unveiling a new design livery featuring the ever-peppy poppy in a previously unseen custom colourway designed especially for Finnair. The Airbus A330 is the second aircraft in the fleet to wear the iconic print.

The Anniversary Unikko livery celebrates the poppy’s 50th birthday and marks the continuation of a special design partnership launched in 2012. The signature textiles and tableware aboard all Finnair aircraft feature classic Marimekko patterns.

The inimitable Unikko was created by Maija Isola (1927-2001) in 1964 as an act of rebellion against Marimekko’s founder. Armi Ratia wanted a fresh, contemporary look for her label, declaring that flowers had no place in her collections.

On seeing Isola’s provocative, Pop Art-inspired poppy, however, Ratia fell in love instantly. The pattern rapidly established itself as a firm favourite and remains in production to this day.

UUSI_show_215x140.pdf

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New additions to Louekari’s inimitable Siirtola­ puutarha series.

Like Isola, Louekari pulls off surprising feats with geometrical shapes and offbeat colour combinations.

“I love throwing together colours that don’t match.

A monochrome print becomes a whole new design when you add a splash of mustard and shocking pink.”

Growing up with Marimekko had both a conscious and subconscious impact on her aesthetic. “My parents were architects, so our home was full of classics. I grew up wearing red-and-white striped shirts

by Annika Rimala. I also recall Isola’s Juhannusruusu (Midsummer rose) bed linen. I would fall asleep every night feeling like a princess on a bed of roses.”

“I often blur my eyes on purpose to see the world purely as blobs of colour,” says Maija Louekari.

24 BLUE WINGS

FLOWER POWER Working from her home in a cosy wooden quarter of Helsinki, Maija Louekari, 32, traces a sweeping arc across her sketchpad. She hand-sketches all her designs, just like her style predecessor and namesake, Maija Isola.

Louekari’s graphic floral print Maija is a personal tribute to Isola. “I wanted to pay homage with a powerful flower. I first discovered the Unikko at a flea market when I was 15. I saw these old curtains and thought, ‘Wow, I want these in my room!’ Three years later, the poppy took off in a big way with the retro boom,” she says.

NOVEMBER 2014

DESIGN DÉJÀ VU Louekari was hired by Marimekko at 21 after winning a design competition with her Hetkiä/Moments print.

Ever since, she has been churning out popular home textiles with a distinctly ’60s feel. Her designs elicit an uncanny sense of déjà vu: they look fresh, yet curiously also like vintage classics.

One of her most popular designs is Siirtolapuutarha (allotment garden, 2009), which appears in a new grey-and-purple colourway this autumn. “Every cup and plate features a different motif. When you put them together, you can build your own city,” she says.

As a holiday gift to fans, Louekari has newly unveiled a print called Ajatus on tärkein (It’s the thought that counts). Depicting wrapped gifts, it’s a reminder that “you don’t always have to buy things to show your appreciation.” Also hitting the stores this autumn is Viipuri, a Slavic-inspired, earthy-toned print that syncs with the east-west fusion theme of the winter fashion collection.

Describing Teurnell as “a fantastic trend-sniffer,” Louekari is inspired to be working with the new creative director. “The whole mood of the place is changing. It will be interesting to see where Marimekko goes from here,” she says. l

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It’s Ssam time!

Chef-restaurateur Tomi Björck samples the delights of Korean ssam, dishes where various leafy vegetables are used to wrap a piece of meat or other fillings accompanied by fiery condiments.

FUSION FEASTS 28 BLUE WINGS

NOVEMBER 2014

TOP 3 FAST-FOOD RESTAURANTS IN TOKYO

TANTALISING ASIAN ELEMENTS ARE INFUSING WESTERN HIGH-END CUISINE AS MORE YOUNG CHEFS LOOK EAST FOR INSPIRATION.

“

I

TEXT BY MIKKO TAKALA

PHOTOS TOMMI ANTTONEN

t really is impossible to get bad food here,” says Finnish chef-restaurateur Tomi Björck to a group of fellow chefs in the lobby of nondescript hotel in Minato, Tokyo. True enough, looks can be deceiving: even this somewhat shabby hotel boasts a two-Michelin-star restaurant. Very French and traditional at that.

“Nah, I don’t mean Michelin-type fine dining, which for me is over anyways. What I mean is that Tokyo and Japan in general deliver in every price category. Just let me prove it: we’ll go out now, turn to the right and have lunch at the very first restaurant that we find on our way,” Björck hollers and leads his merry bunch of chefs into street.

Björck and his chefs are in the city searching for new ideas, flavours, concepts and ingredients for their Helsinki restaurants. The modern Thai restaurant Farang, opened by Björck and his business partner Matti Wikberg five years ago, was voted as the best restaurant in Finland and now has a sister restaurant in Stockholm.

Three years ago, Björck and Wikberg opened Gaijin, which combines Japanese, Korean and Northern Chinese cuisines – and takes its name from the Japanese word for “foreigner.”

UOBEI Kaiten sushi restaurants, in which customers sit by a conveyer belt carrying sushi portions and pick dishes as they pass, became common in Europe a couple of decades ago. In Japan, the latest form of speedy sushi is now replacing the slower belts with magnetoperated sliding tracks. They whisk sushi straight from the kitchen to the customer in just a few seconds.

Orders are typed on an iPad-like screen, which understands English as well. The extensive selection is presented by photos and the portions are bafflingly affordable, from one to three euros per plate.

Sushi, from nigiri to sweets, is fresh and well worth the price.

Uobei, 2-29-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku

MORIMOTO This izakaya bar and restaurant, north of the gigantic Shibuya station is atmospheric and always busy.

It specialises in chicken skewers, turned by Mr Morimoto himself, who has more than 40 years of experience.

Morimoto, Hamanoue Building, ground floor, Dogenzaka 2-7-4, Shibuya-ku

MAISEN Maisen serves inch-thick tonkatsu pork cutlets, breaded with panko crumbs and deep fried. The cutlets are sliced into bite-size pieces and served with shredded cabbage and a dressing that resembles Worcestershire sauce.

A tonkatsu meal also includes rice, miso soup and pickled vegetables. Stylish Maisen, located in a former bathhouse, is so popular that you may have to wait for a table. But it’s well worth the trouble.

The cutlets melt in your mouth and the sauce is slightly addictive. Fortunately you can also buy the sauce at the restaurant shop.

Maisen, 4-8-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku

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Tokyo’s famed fish market has always been a magnet for chefs around the world. Next year the market will move to more modern premises.

“For us gaijins who interpret Asian cuisine, Tokyo serves as a source of never-ending inspiration and a treasure trove of ideas, and I’m not only talking about sushi meals costing hundreds of euros. On the contrary, you can manage in Tokyo even on a low budget, and you quite often make the most interesting discoveries at modest little cafés,” he says.

We follow our plan and pop into the first restaurant we come across.

It is small but extremely tidy. The owner-chef calls out a greeting and soon there are steaming bowls of ramen noodle soup in front of us, fortified with a few slices of pork flank and boiled eggs. The broth is profoundly spicy and the noodles still have some substance to them. The side snacks, gyōza dumplings and pickled vegetables, are so delicious that we order another round of them. The whole feast costs a few euros per head.

BJÖRCK AND WIKBERG HAVE WORKED IN ASIA’S FINEST RESTAURANTS.

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NOVEMBER 2014

“Got it?” Björck asks with a beaming smile and yes, indeed I do.

FIRE AND ENTHUSIASM Through the decades, many young Japanese chefs have come to Europe to train. While this is still the case, the flow has switched from West to East over the past few years. However, there are immense differences in food cultures, and not everyone who goes to Asia to learn is able to adjust to the often hierarchical local systems.

“It hurts to say this out loud, but the young Japanese are something else when it comes to their work morale and dedication. You rarely see the same fire and enthusiasm in young Europeans,” says Catalonian champion chef Carme Ruscalleda, who has earned three Michelin stars and hosts a restaurant in Tokyo as well.

Björck and Wikberg both worked in some of the finest restaurants in Asia and Australia before opening their own in Helsinki.

“Our background is in European fine dining and we’ve worked at several Michelin-starred restaurants. Asian cuisine opened a whole new world for

Probably the best fast food in the world. Chef preparing yakitori, chicken skewers grilled over charcoal. Every part of the chicken is used from heart to cartilages.

us, though. It felt liberating, fascinating and naturally so different from the repetitious Western food,” says Wikberg.

Nordic chefs are by no means the only ones who have a background in fine dining and gain inspiration from Asian cuisine. Asia can be seen and tasted more prominently than ever on the menus of the most interesting restaurants in Europe and the United States. Japanese influences in particular have spread widely into high-end Western cooking.

In Germany, the most recent restaurant to score three Michelin stars, Kevin Fehling’s La Belle Epoque in Lübeck, seasons its dishes in the Japanese style, and Tim Raue’s namesake restaurant in Berlin also has strong Asian influences. From a culinary point of view, the most exciting Asia-inspired fine dining restaurant is probably David Munoz’s DiverXO in Madrid. DiverXO criss-crosses effortlessly between Japanese, Chinese, Thai and Spanish flavour worlds.

NOVEMBER 2014

BLUE WINGS

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There are four main categories of ramen noodles and countless sub-categories. But no matter the style, ramen is guaranteed to be cheap, cheerful and satisfying.

From Tokyo to Seoul.

Chefs Matti Wikberg and Tomi Björck hunt for genuine gochugaru, Korean red pepper powder.

“AN INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE” No wonder European fine dining is now borrowing Japanese techniques and flavours. In a way, Japanese fine dining, the kaiseki-ryōri style which developed from the 16th-century tea ceremony, is the forefather of the modern Western tasting menus. In kaisekiryōri, a series of small portions is served in carefully-considered order: appetisers (zensai), clear soup (suimono), raw fish (sashimi), a grilled dish (yakimono), a steamed dish (mushimono), a simmered dish (nimono), a deep-fried dish (agemono), a vinegary dish (sunomono) and boiled vegetables or a salad (aemono).

“Kaiseki-ryōri is an incredible experience: techniques, aesthetics and only the best possible ingredients. However, we’re more interested in democratic eating, the daily street food which is the best in the world here, without the slightest exaggeration. I’m inspired by the enthusiasm and precision with which people focus on the food here. We must be capable of the same,” Björck says.

In these days, chefs in the West carefully avoid using terms such as authentic, traditional or genuine when describing their own restaurants which serve Asian food.

“Authentic and traditional are words that somehow imply there is one true Thai or Japanese cuisine, but of course that’s not the case. Ask ten Japanese cooks to

make a perfect bowl of ramen noodles and you’ll get ten different ramens,” Wikberg says.

“I think the focus should be on preserving ingredients, techniques and traditions. These are what define cultures, not recipes,” says American chef Max Levy, who runs Okra, one of the best Japanese restaurants in Beijing.

Levy trained for many years at Sushi Yasuda, both in Tokyo and New York, before setting up shop in the Chinese capital. He became interested in Japanese cuisine as a youngster through the fish market trade of tuna being shipped from his home state of Louisiana to Japan.

“Do I use ingredients that are not native to Japan in my food? Yes, of course. Is that fusion? Yes. Do I put ingredients in places where they don’t naturally serve some purpose, just to have something unique on my menu? No. The challenge is to define authentic cuisine. Whenever I hear someone discussing an ‘authentic recipe,’ I immediately lose interest, as there are always too many unanswered questions. Is there an authentic hamburger? It’s different in every home, restaurant and fast food chain,” he asserts. l FINNAIR FLIES nonstop daily to Tokyo.

Tokyo sushi beauties: one piece stuffed with salmon roe and another with uni (Sea Urchin’s Gonads).

MUST-VISIT ASIAN RESTAURANTS IN THE US MISSION CHINESE FOOD The US food media has been desperately searching for a new messiah to fill the boots of the Momofuku restaurants’ chef and founder David Chang. The most talked-about and celebrated candidate is Danny Bowien, an eccentric chef and the uncrowned king of hipster cuisine.

However, Bowien’s restaurant, Mission Chinese Food, may come as a shock for those accustomed to polished spaces and service. This restaurant creates daring Chinese cuisine by bending the rules – but it looks like the worst possible generic Chinese dive.

The consciously shabby chic is unintentionally comical, but the food is at its best incredibly delicious, at times odd and even affordable. Try the caraway lamb and kung pao pastrami at least.

The restaurant does not accept reservations.

Bowien now also operates on a pop-up basis in New York, where he plans to open a new restaurant soon on the Lower East Side.

Pok Pok Portland

Momofuku Noodle Bar, 171 First Avenue (E. 11th Street), New York MOMOFUKU.COM

Mission Chinese Food / Lung Shan, 2234 Mission Street, San Francisco MISSIONCHINESEFOOD.COM

POK POK Andy Ricker owner-chef of Pok Pok spent several years travelling and eating his way through roadside stands and restaurants across Thailand before opening his first restaurant in Portland, Oregon. Nine years later, he runs several restaurants in Portland and New York.

Inspired by his travels, Ricker serves street food that copies genuine Thai flavours as faithfully as possible in very casual surroundings. The must-have dish on the menu? Definitely garlicky chicken wings, washed down with Pok Pok’s own “drinking vinegars.”

WWW.POKPOKPDX.COM

MOMOFUKU NOODLE BAR “I don’t care about authenticity. I just want to make something delicious,” says David Chang.

Chang, a New Yorker who was listed as one of the 100 most influential people by Time magazine, is a superstar in the US. His Momofuku Ssäm Noodle Bar, which launched his winning streak a decade ago, is still the best restaurant by this cherub-faced chef-theologian whose favourite words begin with the letter F. Noodle Bar’s menu is a combination of European, Asian and American cuisine. The interior is minimalist, the benches hard and the waiters

follow the standard model of a trendy restaurant: tattooed, angsty and rude. The music is entertaining: sugary easy-listening is interspersed with all kinds of fun stuff from Bob Dylan to Slayer.

For an appetiser, try fried duck liver with pineapple and a bit celery and chilli on the side. Momofuku’s classic, a steamed dough roll with greasy pork flank, hoisin sauce, spring onion and cucumber, is velvety. Every bite tastes indecently awesome.

Noodle Bar’s chicken meal for six – a legend with good reason – includes two whole birds, one prepared Southern US style, the other Korean style.

These gourmet fowl are served with extravagant side dishes. The idea is to scrape off meat from the chicken and wrap it inside a lettuce leaf or a mu shu pancake. Garnish the concoction with chilli, carrot, radishes and fresh herbs.

FINNAIR FLIES daily to New York and offers daily oneworld codeshare flights to San Francisco and daily connections to Portland.

Mission Chinese Food Pok Pok New York

KYSY APTEEKISTA

Mission Chinese Food: Brilliant food, bad décor.

Momofuku: A winning combination of European, Asian and American cuisine.

Hyvää yötä ja hyvää huomenta

Hammasystävällinen ja kätevä suussa hajoava tabletti.

9/2014

Melatoniini Orion lyhentää nukahtamisaikaa ja lievittää aikaeron yksilöllisiä vaikutuksia. Nopeasti suussa hajoava ja hammasystävällinen tabletti voidaan ottaa myös ilman nestettä. Pakkauskoot 30 ja 100 tabl.

Crowds still line up for Momofuku Noodle Bar, ten years after it opened.

Lisätietoja numerosta 010 426 2928 ark. klo 8–16 8–16.

Orion on suomalainen avainlippuyritys.

EUROPE’S BEST ASIAN-INSPIRED RESTAURANTS DIVERXO DiverXO, led by 34-year-old David Muñoz, combines boldly Asian influences with traditional Spanish flavours. In 2014, the restaurant became one of the select few to earn three Michelin stars. Muñoz, who worked for more than three years as the first non-Asian chef at Nobu and Hakkasan in London, opened his own restaurant in 2007.

Although the young master uses all the techniques of an avant-garde kitchen – experiments, concepts and challenging diners – they are not self-serving gimmicks here.

“Flavour, flavour and flavour: above all, the food must taste good,” Muñoz stresses.

The 13-dish tasting menu is an incredible rollercoaster of flavours: sea urchins lurk in the depths of a coconut-based soup, enriched by shrimp and small mussels.

Even though Muñoz believes in fusion, he is emblematically Spanish and does not try to copy Asian flavours with orthodox authenticity. There is a lot of stuff on the plates, but the chef knows how to make the most of the characteristic flavour of each main ingredient, which is naturally always of prime quality.

Muñoz is opening his first restaurant outside of Spain in London’s Mayfair in December.

Madrid’s DiverXO combines Asian influences with traditional Spanish flavours.

Chef of the year Tim Raue in the kitchen of his eponymous restaurant in Berlin.

DiverXO, Calle Padre Damián 23, Madrid StreetXO, 15 Old Burlington Street, London, DIVERXO.COM

FINNAIR FLIES nonstop up to six times daily to London.

Pakta serves up Peruvian-Japanese cuisine in Barcelona.

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NOVEMBER 2014

TIM RAUE Tim Raue, selected as the chef of the year by the food magazine Feinschmecker, is chasing his third Michelin star near Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin. He draws influence and inspiration from the Asian palette of flavours in a contemporary, trendy style. The dining hall’s formal atmosphere fortunately does not carry over onto the plate: Raue open-mindedly combines Chinese, Japanese and Thai flavours, without shying away from luxurious Western ingredients.

In addition to his flagship restaurant, Raue hosts the Asian restaurant Sra Bue next to the classic hotel Adlon.

Tim Raue, Rudi-Dutschke-Strasse 26, Berlin TIMRAUE.COM

Berlin.

PAKTA Peruvian-Japanese Nikkei restaurant Pakta, run by Albert Adrià, once second in command of the legendary elBulli, is still the hottest restaurant in Barcelona. In the 1980s, the term “Nikkei” still meant all Japanese food prepared with foreign ingredients outside of Japan. Today it refers to Japanese-Peruvian “fusion kitchen,” which combines ingredients and cooking techniques from both countries.

Nobu Matsuhisa, the creator of the Nobu chain, could be called Nikkei food’s bestknown representative. The sushi chef created his style while living in Peru, using ingredients typical of the local cuisine such as olive oil, chilli, garlic and cilantro.

FINNAIR FLIES nonstop twice daily to

Pakta is located on a quiet side street near the busy Paral·lel thoroughfare. Inside, the place resembles a traditional Japanese sushi restaurant. The Peruvian influence shows through here in a series of wooden frames, resembling handlooms, with colourful pieces of rope woven into them.

There are two menus to choose from, the 25-dish Fujiyama menu or 32-dish Machu-Picchu menu. At Pakta, delicate Japanese flavours entwine with strong, acidic South American ones into a seamless symphony.

Pakta, C/ Lleida 5, Barcelona EN.BCN50.ORG

FINNAIR FLIES daily to Barcelona.

A MEMBER OF THE ADDTECH GROUP

KRAKOW BAKERIES

1

FRENCH CONNECTION Since opening in 2012, Charlotte has become a Krakow institution, and with good reason.

Exuding an air of laid-back Parisian elegance, the bakery-cumcafé serves up some of the best baked goods in the country. With ovens downstairs in the cellar, Charlotte’s macaroons, tartelettes, croissants and breads come to the table always piping fresh. The breakfast bread basket – available all day – is served with homemade jams and chocolate spreads.

Charlotte Plac Szczepański BISTROCHARLOTTE.COM

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NOVEMBER 2014

TOP

KRAKOW BAKERIES

MEATY TREATS MIGHT BE ITS BRAVADO, BUT IT IS THE LOCAL PATISSERIE CULTURE THAT TRULY SHOWS OFF THE FINESSE OF THE POLISH KITCHEN. TEXT BY HELEN KORPAK

PHOTOS BY JUSSI SÄRKILAHTI

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FIT FOR KING ARTHUR Café Camelot boasts outdoor seating on one of the loveliest streets in the Old Town as well as atmospheric interiors decorated with folk art. The real pièce de résistance, though, is the array of lovely cakes on display inside, all baked fresh on the premises.

Sample the stunning berrytopped summer cakes, but also expect to be wooed by the chocolate gâteau and szarlotka, Poland’s answer to Austria’s beloved apple strudel.

4

MERINGUE CATHEDRAL Originally founded as an ice cream parlour in 1946, Starowicz is famed for its award-winning signature pastry, Dzwon Zygmunta. Named after the 500-year-old Sigismund Bell of Krakow’s Wawel Cathedral, the spire-like confection is the creation of Andrzej Starowicz, who has been running the bakery for almost 35 years The prized pastry consists of honey meringue, chocolate, cream, almonds and – “the beating heart”– liquorsoaked cherries.

Cukiernia Starowicz, Świętego Wawrzyńca 32 CUKIERNIASTAROWICZ.PL

Café Camelot Świętego Tomasza 17

3

DOUGHNUT DOYEN Every year on Fat Thursday before Lent, the street outside tiny Michałek fills with people queueing to buy a traditional treat, pączki. The sugar-glazed doughnuts filled with fragrant rose marmalade have been known in Poland since medieval times, and are nowadays found year-round in most bakeries. At Michałek the pączkis are the culmination of centuries of tradition: cooked to perfection and fluffy as summer clouds.

Cukiernia Michałek Krupnicza 6

5

THE YEAST WE CAN DO Turning 70 next year, Buczek is one of Krakow’s biggest bakery chains, with shops all over the city. Renowned for its fresh take on Polish classics such as kremówka (cream-filled puff pastry) and drożdżówki (sweet buns stuffed with fruits or berries), Buczek also draws salivating crowds with fancy modern confectionaries such as berry-topped yoghurt mousse pastry and fruity cheesecakes. Come early before everything is sold out!

Buczek, Multiple locations around the city PIECZYWO-BUCZEK.PL

FINNAIR FLIES to Krakow via Warsaw and from April 2015 offers several weekly non-stop flights.

NOVEMBER 2014

BLUE WINGS

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EUROPEAN VOICES

BY ALEXANDER STUBB

Why common sense doesn’t always make sense

I

n my heart of hearts I am an acaargues, when we start trying to apply comdemic. I am curious, I want to mon sense to more complex issues. understand the world and learn The application of common sense to new things every day. Yet the business, markets, politics or international more I learn, the more I underrelations rarely works. This is relevant stand that I will never know even because a lot of big decisions are made on a fraction of it all. the basis of assumed common sense.

My late grandfather, Kai Setälä, was a professor of medicine. His science POLITICIANS THINK THEY KNOW how was always more natural than mine. Mine to deal with poverty – and prepare poliwas always more social than his. He was a cies accordingly. Advertising agencies base scientist, I am a political scientist. their marketing plans on assumptions I remember about what the consumer the talks we used wants. to have about the Some things seem obviEVERYTHING IS methodology of ous in hindsight. Watts OBVIOUS ONCE YOU science. His theis correct in arguing that KNOW THE ANSWER. ories had to be “the paradox of common clear, presense...is that even as it cise and helps to make sense of the quantified. My social science world, it can actively undermine our abilwas always a bit more flimsy. ity to understand it.”

He had clear answers; I was This is the problem. We look at sometrying to find clarity with my thing retrospectively and believe that we questions. have an answer for the future, that we Against this background know how it is all going to work the next I enjoyed reading Duncan time around. This is where I think we go J. Watts’ book Everything Is wrong. The world is complex. Every probObvious *Once You Know the lem is different, thus solutions must vary.

Answer: How Common Sense I think my grandfather and Watts are Fails Us. He argues that “the right. In our daily lives it is absolutely fine outcomes we observe in life – to try to find common sense answers to explanations that seem obvious simple questions. But when it comes to once we know the answer – are more complex questions, common sense is less useful than they seem.” often an impediment to a solution.

Watts, a principal researcher Questioning your own beliefs is not at Microsoft, makes the simple easy, but it is a good start to finding an observation that we should not try answer. The worst type of politician is the to apply the same rules to social one who thinks that he knows it all. And and natural sciences. Rocket scithen when something goes wrong he says ence is difficult, but we are actu- that it came as no surprise. Well, Watts’ ally better at planning the flight book surprised me – it made sense. l path of a rocket than we are at managing the economy.

Arguing against common Alexander Stubb, the Prime Minister of sense is not easy, because Finland, tries to make sense of this wonderful in our day-to-day lives it is world of ours. indeed a good thing. The Twitter: @alexstubb problem arises, Watts

40 BLUE WINGS

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LONGHOUSE LIFE

IN THE BORNEO JUNGLE THE TRADITIONAL LONGHOUSE OF THE MALAYSIAN STATE OF SARAWAK IN BORNEO ACCOMMODATES AN ENTIRE VILLAGE UNDER A SINGLE ROOF.

A

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY TIM BIRD

couple of degrees north of the Equator the humidity has retreated with nightfall. I crawl under the mosquito net and collapse on my mattress.

This is the heart of the Borneo jungle in the Malaysian state of Sarawak, close to the border with Indonesian Kalimantan, an hour by boat from the nearest road. The accommodation is a longhouse, in essence a single village contained under one roof

40 BLUE WINGS

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and the traditional housing for members of the Iban tribe. The rambling wooden construction runs about 70 metres from end to end and occupies a slope above a bend in the jungle river. My indoor “tent” has been pitched outside the door of my host, the chief or headman. Female guests are honoured with invitations to sleep inside the dwelling, but male visitors sleep on the veranda.

Getting here entailed a 250-kilometre drive from Sarawak’s capital, Kuching, followed by the boat trip across a lake and then up-river to the

Borneo

The Sarawak Longhouse veranda is a communal meeting place for a village under a single roof.

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PLANET BORNEO TOURS can arrange trips to the Longhouse for more adventurous individuals and small groups.

Planet Borneo also has a popular lodge in central Kuching, the Sarawak capital.

The most remote Longhouses are far from any road.

WWW.PLANETBORNEOTOURS.COM

THE SARAWAK TOURIST BOARD is also very helpful for adventure travellers visiting this part of Borneo.

WWW.SARAWAKTOURISM.COM

edge of the Batang Ai National Park. Inhabitants of the forest include a number of orang-utans, although they are rarely spotted. “They’re safe here,” says guide Tiyon Juna, an Iban tribesman himself. “There are two animals the Iban do not hunt, the orang-utan and the crocodile. That’s because we believe that we can be reincarnated as either creature.”

HEADS YOU WIN Two other cultural features distinguish the Iban: a special style of tattoo – and headhunting. Tattoos are still popular with men of all ages, although the traditional motifs tend to be borne mostly by the elders. Headhunting, a way of assertively marking territory won by battles, is consigned to tribal history. “When I was a boy, 30 years ago or so, we used to have old skulls as toys,” says Juna. “We never went out without them!

But even then, headhunting was a thing of the past.”

It’s reassuring to hear this as one of the headman’s neighbours emerges with a flat basket he wants to show. It holds two skulls, secured by strands of bamboo and accompanied by an egg and a bowl of popcorn. “Now we have got them out we will need to renew the offerings,” says the man, while someone else tips drops of rice wine into each skull mouth. The skulls have been in the family for a century or so, and nobody remembers their exact origin, although everyone agrees they are probably the remains of Indonesian “enemies.”

The Iban, a branch of Borneo’s Dayak people, themselves originated in Kalimantan, across the mountains that divide Borneo in what is now Indonesia and are believed to have been the first inhabitants of the island. They migrated into Sarawak in the 15th

century, bringing with them codes of animistic belief that still hold strong, although mixed with elements of Christianity, in a predominantly Muslim nation.

“Traditionally we count everything in units of seven,” says Juna. “According to the older generation it’s because we have seven gods – of the sky, of fire, of water, of rice, of other plants and nature, of earth and of the wind. These beliefs still influence our lives a lot.

I practice the traditions in the longhouse, but when I’m in the city it’s different.”

Juna rubs his eye, explaining that he has been working in the north of Sarawak, where some of the world’s most impressive caves are found. He acquired an infection in one of these caves. “I was treated in the city but my mum will still want me to go to the shaman. He’ll give me some charmed oil.

Shamans are appointed by the spirits and through dreams, but most people don’t want the job any more.”

THE LONGHOUSE LIFESTYLE IS HIGHLY SOCIABLE WITH CHAT CIRCLES OUTSIDE EACH DOOR

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RICE WINE, GRILLED FISH The lifestyle in the longhouse appears highly sociable, with chat circles forming spontaneously near doorways on the long veranda. Traditionally the structure of the community under one roof had a practical security function; these days it’s a platform for sharing. As I stroll along the veranda, I am beckoned into different circles to share rice wine and grilled fish.

Nobody seems to be surprised at the presence of a lone foreigner.

Over a meal of chilli, jungle plants and chicken steamed over a fire in hollowed-out bamboo tubes by his wife, the headman, Nyingdang Ak Belayong

Traditional tattoo designs are still worn by the elders.

Technology encroaches on an uncomplicated lifestyle.

Fish caught from the river is grilled for dinner.

Head hunting is a thing of the past, but old skulls remain revered.

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The more authentic Longhouses are built on foundations of wooden stilts.

Mending fishing nets on the Longhouse veranda.

recounts in quiet but good English that he was born in another longhouse not far from here. “A dam was built to turn the river valley into a reservoir and a hydro-electric plant, now the lake that you cross to get here, in 1984. We moved up-river to this house the next year.”

“The idea of building a dam on our little river seemed ridiculous back in the 1980s,” says Juna. “We laughed at them – go on, man, build your dam! Then the bulldozers came along and we realised it was happening. We had no choice. My father worked on the construction, my brother too, millionaires for a few years. I remember seeing my father with half a million Malaysian ringgit in a plastic bag.

Many guys drank beer, changed cars, changed wives, it happened to many families. Now all the money has gone. The land was flooded and the longhouses were moved up river.”

Currently, the longhouse is accommodated by some 50 people, although the young people only come back from the city for celebrations and festivals.

Ak Belayong points at the sacks of rice piled high in his home that, like those of his neighbours, appears to have evolved organically in a series of descending terraces, finishing in the kitchen and dining area at the bottom level farthest from the veranda. The longhouse occupants have chosen to live this way, far from the wifi and smart cars of their capital, and the Sarawak government allows them to use their land as they wish.

Seated contemplatively or quietly mending their fishing nets in the squares of light pouring through the hatchways, their dogs and cats patrolling along the long outdoor terrace, the villagers live a simple life, but are not immune to the temptations of the modern world. At dusk someone pulls away the cover from a TV set and the young boys compare computer games on a tiny laptop.

EASY-GOING SPONTANEITY Juna works for Planet Borneo, an agency that provides access to authentic experiences in Sarawak with a view to responsible tourism, including visits to the Longhouse. He 46 BLUE WINGS

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Traditional clothes are worn during festivals and special events.

confirms that this kind of adventure trip is more popular with culturally aware travellers, although the expedition does not lend itself to group travel – for either hosts or guests.

“At first the people here loved mass tourism, but in the end they actually get fed up with the disruption, and it spoils the economic balance. So with these trips we are aiming for eco-tourism, controlling the number of visitors so it can be sustained.”

He encourages visitors to bring useful gifts like schoolbooks and pens for the children, not whisky, sweets and money. No fixed itinerary is planned for the duration of the visit, so visitors can sample the easy-going spontaneity of longhouse life.

“My mother doesn’t like my wife to clean the home – if our house is clean and tidy, it makes us look poor,” Juna says. “She likes it to look messy, full of stuff that makes us look richer! That is how material wealth is measured in our community. Not with cars, not with fancy TVs, but with other stuff. My mother is 80-plus, she still goes to the farm, it’s a matter of pride. I tell her to stay at home, I can get the rice, but she says we will look lazy.” l

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BETWEEN

SAND SEA AND

TEXT BY ANTTI HELIN

48 BLUE WINGS

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PHOTOS BY VILLE PALONEN

ONE OF THE MOST ENCHANTING COUNTRIES IN THE ARABIAN GULF, BLESSED WITH STUNNING SEAS AND OTHER­WORLDLY DESERT LAND­SCAPES, THE SULTANATE OF OMAN IS BEING HAILED BY TRAVEL AFICIONADOS AS A FUTURE HUB OF GULF TOURISM.

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I

t looks almost as if the water were boiling.

A frisky pod of spinner dolphins surrounds our boat as we rock on the waves just off the coast of Muscat, Oman’s capital. Making the sea bubble and splash incessantly, the dolphins race up next to us, performing wonderful jumps into the air, disappearing into the depths of the water and re-emerging again, one moment far away, the next by our boat.

There seem to be hundreds of them within view at any given moment. The show goes on for a couple of hours, until it’s time for us to turn back to shore.

“There were more than 1,000 dolphins out there today,” says our boatman.

This kind of spectacle is something you expect to see only in nature documentaries, not real life. But, that said, Oman is no ordinary country. It’s one of the most captivating of the Gulf countries, its very name evoking the romance of Arabia.

Until very recently, the country has remained hidden beneath the average traveller’s radar, but now tourism is booming. One after another, international travel magazines have named Oman as the most promising up-and-coming travel destination of the Gulf region.

“The travel industry has grown 15 to 17 per cent annually over the last few years,” says Naseem Amir Shah from Universal Travels, as he takes us sailing the next day on a traditional dhow boat near Muscat.

You may try out sandboarding in the Wahiba Sand desert.

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The Omani people used similar boats to build their naval empire, which extended all the way from Arabia to the African coast. One of the capitals of the sultanate was Zanzibar in what is today Tanzania.

The coastal scenery of Muscat looks like a fantasy backdrop fashioned by ancient gods, with walls of black and brown spiky mountains punctuated by incredible cliff formations and quiet beach coves.

“Most visitors first take a weeklong trip into the desert and the mountains, and after that prefer to spend their last three or four days relaxing on the beach,” says Shah.

“THERE WERE MORE THAN 1,000 DOLPHINS OUT THERE TODAY.”

HIGH-END HOTSPOT Few capitals can offer a quiet and luxurious beach holiday as Muscat can. The surrounding coast is a chain of wonderful, empty beaches tucked away in secluded coves. So far only a small handful of palatial hotels have appeared on these glorious shores. One of them is the Al Bustan Palace, known for its gigantic lobby, which is spacious enough to fit a jumbo jet.

Another is the Shangri-La Barr al Jissah, famed for its beach, which serves as a nesting ground for green tur-

tles during the hot summer months of the main nesting season.

Protected by majestic cliffs, the Shangri-La beach feels far removed from everything, though the capital is only a 20-minute taxi ride away.

The growing tourism industry has attracted a massive influx of new investment. Shah points to deserted beaches: “A new hotel will be built there, and there….”

Muscat currently has only five luxury hotels, but the number is set to double by 2016. Oman is clearly targeting high-end tourism.

Other ongoing building projects include a brand new National Museum, an impressive convention centre and a large amusement park close to Muscat.

But Oman would not presume to compete with neighbouring Dubai on large-scale building projects – far from it: regulations prohibit the construction of any structures taller than 12 storeys. Oman adheres loyally to the traditional architectural style.

“Dubai is a totally unique destination,” says Shah.

“But here we have it all: a strong culture, natural beauty, 2,000 kilometres of coastline, beautiful mountains, untouched dive sites, cultural itineraries and off-road adventures.”

BEDOUIN COUNTRY “Hey, careful with the doors!” says Salaam, our Bedouin driver. “Don’t bang them hard, okay?”

That’s odd. We are about to go dune bashing in the Wahiba Sands desert, and our driver is worried about his car doors of all things.

As it turns out, “dune bashing” in Oman is nothing like the sport of the same name in Dubai, where fourwheel drives defy the laws of gravity driving full speed up and down the desert dunes.

Here it’s more like dune sightseeing. Slowly and cautiously we skirt along the sandy landscape. The dunes are undoubtedly beautiful to behold, but don’t expect an adrenaline rush.

And that’s probably a good thing. The country’s wide, deserted and mountainous interior has so much more to offer than cheap thrills.

Wahiba Sands, around 250 kilometres from Muscat, is the ultimate desert experience – a picture-perfect landscape of golden, silky-smooth dunes.

Between the huge dunes there are flat valleys covered in thorny bushes where Bedouins herd their goats and camels amidst tourist tent camps. This is where almost all the tourists overnight to enjoy the clear starry skies and the great emptiness.

Lying 40 kilometres from the desert’s edge is one of the more upmarket camps, 1000 Nights Camp, which opened in 2004. Even the Spanish king enjoyed a stay here in 2012.

“At first there wasn’t much here, just a handful of tents. But the tourists want more and more convenience,” says the camp receptionist, Govin Babu Koirala.

Today the camp boasts designer tents with reflecting front windows and luxurious two-floor villas. There’s a children’s playground – and amazingly, even a swimming pool, which is filled with water from the well.

But back to the dune sightseeing. Towards the end

Shangri-La Barr al Jissah hotel near Muscat has a stunning beach.

Omani food being prepared at a heritage museum in Al-Hamra’s old town.

The traditional cattle market is the best place to meet locals.

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OMAN MUST-SEES • The sights of the capital Muscat can be covered in two days. Most city tours include the handsome Sultan Qaboos Mosque, the striking new opera house and the Mutrah fish market with its huge tunas and marlins. Save the next day for a dolphin watching boat tour.

• Despite the rich marine life and well-preserved corals, there are still only a handful of diving operators in Oman. Diving trips are best organised from Muscat.

• Ras al-Jinz, 250 kilometres from Muscat, is one of the most important turtle nesting sites in the world. On average 50 to 100 turtles a day lay their eggs on the beach in the months of June, July and August, but you are almost guaranteed to spot at least a few turtles any night of the year.

• The best hotels for a beach holiday are found in secluded coves close to Muscat.

The most impressive is family-friendly Shangri-La, which even has its own turtle nesting beach.

• A colourful animal market is held every Friday morning in the town of Nizwa, where you can see Omanis in a very traditional setting bargaining over live cattle.

• The 500 castles throughout the sultanate are reminders of a time when Oman was a wild and violent frontier land. Some of the most impressive castles worth visiting are the well-managed Jabrin Castle, and the huge Bahla Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is again finally open to the public after 25 years of renovation.

• Fancy an off-road adventure? You’ll need a 4WD drive to reach the most remote and beautiful mountain terrain. The most legendary route winds through Wadi Bani Awf. You can either organise a trip with a driver or join a one-day off-road course and hit the rugged roads yourself.

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52 BLUE WINGS

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of our ride, we stop by a Bedouin tent and Salaam rubs noses – a traditional Arabic greeting – with a desert dweller as she welcomes us inside and serves us some authentic Arabic coffee flavoured with cardamom.

“She’s a good friend of mine. She has seven children,” Salaam says.

ROMANCING THE SANDS After a short but memorable visit in the unfurnished Bedouin tent, Salaam leaves us to enjoy the sunset.

As the rusty red orb dips behind the dunes, we wonder: What is the magic of the desert that fascinates us so?

Is it the round, feminine shapes of the dunes, or the silky softness of the sand, burnished by the ruthless winds? Is it the vastness and the eerie emptiness?

Is it the hilarious, alien-like appearance of the camels? Is it our image of the Bedouins, who have chosen the hardships of the wilderness over modern conveniences for the sake of freedom?

Which is it? Maybe all of the above.

The beach of Ras-al-Jinz is ideal for spotting green sea turtles.

An answer comes next day from Salaam, as we drive out of Wahiba Sands.

Salaam says he spends the hot summers in town, on the edge of Wahiba Sands, in the comfort of his air-conditioned home. During the winters he lives in a tent in the desert, the traditional way.

“The desert is so much better than the town. There are no people. It’s quiet, easy to sleep. All you hear is the occasional camel braying,” he says.

GHOST TOWNS It is exactly what you might expect of a traditional town on the outskirts of a desert. The houses are built of mud tiles and packed so closely together that the alleys stay cool and shady even at midday.

But not a soul is in sight. Most of the dilapidated houses are on the verge of collapse. Wooden supporting beams, made of date palms, stick out like ribs from the tumble-down roofs and walls.

This is the scene greeting you in most of the historic town centres of Oman. The townspeople have

BURGERS AND BIRYANI DON’T EXPECT a mind-blowing culinary experience in Oman. For lunch you will most likely find only cheap hamburgers and Indian-style biryani rice dishes in restaurants called “coffee shops” − even though they serve no coffee. The orange juice is always fresh and delicious, though.

Authentic Omani food is seldom found even in good hotels. An invitation to a local’s home is the only way to enjoy real Omani cuisine.

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The fort of Bahla is amongst the most magnificent forts in Oman.

Khanjar daggers are an important part of a traditional costume.

moved to new, concrete houses that circle the old towns.

One of the biggest and most atmospheric ghost towns is Al-Hamra.

A Bollywood film group shot a dancing scene here for the Indian action crime thriller Gunday released last February that went onto become a blockbuster.

Call it a sign of the times. It’s not only tourists, but even Bollywood studios have discovered Oman as a perfect backdrop for their romantic dreams of forgotten times.

Only a couple of old houses still stand fully intact in Al-Hamra. One of them is the Bait al Safah Museum, a handsome three-tiered mansion. Inside there are displays of traditional ware and old ladies cooking crispy waffle-like Omani bread in the kitchen.

“This house was built 400 years ago. It belonged to the chief of the town,” says museum guide Salaam al-Labri.

“Traditional mud brick houses withstand time well as long as they’re lived in. You just need some basic maintenance. But as soon as the people move out, the houses crumble in a few years,” he says.

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To the casual observer, Oman might seem like a country steeped in tradition, but rapid modernisation over the last 40 years, thanks mostly to the oil money, has left its mark.

SOUQ UP THE ACTION Omanis certainly cling to their traditions – but only when it is convenient. You won’t actually meet many Omani people on the streets, since they prefer the creature comforts of their modern houses and airconditioned cars.

Most of the people you meet around Oman will be migrant workers from India, Bangladesh, Nepal and the Philippines working in the hotels and restaurants.

Luckily there’s at least one place where you are guaranteed to see Omani everyday culture at its liveliest: the souqs, or traditional markets.

Not yet unrivalled by modern shopping malls, every souq offers stalls selling vegetables, goat carcasses, fish, old-world perfumes and souvenirs, as well as a shop or two selling vintage muskets and curved daggers called khanjar, still a proud part of traditional Omani dress.

Some of the old muskets were once used in tribal wars that continued until 1959, when the country was finally united under one sultan. The price tag on antique daggers can be as high as 8,000 euros.

Seeing how passionately the Omani people hold these precious rifles and khanjars in the market stalls, you cannot help but feel that perhaps they too – and not just tourists – still long for the charm of the wild and mysterious Arabia of yesteryear. l FINNAIR OFFERS up to five weekly departures to Dubai and convenient connections from there to Oman.

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Tea time with Chekhov

F

ood is more than nutrition; whether to drink tea or to hang myself,” it is also a cultural experiapplies to his descriptions of the frivolous ence and something eveRussian upper class that senses upheaval ryone can relate to. While is going on somewhere, but continue to thinking about the conpour both cups of tea and vodka at their nection between food and dilapidated mansions. In a way, Chekhov’s art, my immediate associa- incessant tea drinking was foreboding tion is linked to stilleben social change. It mirrors our own Euroas a genre literally overflowing with food. pean presence in the face of large ecoHistorically, stilleben paintings emerged nomic uncertainty on our continent. in a time marked by economic growth and The interplay between food and art in the end of feudal society. Food became a the context of contemporary live perforpopular motif in 16th-cenmance is blurring boundatury painting and indicated ries between the culinary a new economic context world and the arts. From NOWADAYS, for Europe. Intense agriF.T. Marinetti’s Futurist GASTRO CHIC cultural development and Cookbook to Lady Gaga’s SEEMS TO BE increasing transcontimeat dress, food has pronental trade intersected; vided a tool for creating THE THING. food became a symbol time-based projects that for this change. make their audiences to Artists were compause and think, to remissioned to paint stilleben with examine everyday situations. Nowadays, food motifs, and presumably docugastro chic seems to be the thing: being menting the new wealth. As is today, aware of what you eat and how you look they were also circulating images to when doing it. One thing about Baroque stimulate consumption. The paintstilleben paintings and tea-drinking Chekings, however, had a deeper meaning hovian characters in linen summer suits is as depictions of fish, meat, fruit and that there was no need for them to be gasvegetable arrangements were often tro chic. They already had and lost it all. l connected with vanitas motifs, indicating the impermanence of human life and wealth.

The vanitas motif has Tiina Rosenberg is the rector of the reemerged in this autumn’s ChekUniversity of the Arts in Helsinki for the hov repertoire showcasing in Finn- 2013–2017 term, and currently on leave of ish theaters. Uncle Vanya preabsence from her professorship at the miered at the Finnish National University of Stockholm. Her research has Theatre and Helsinki City Theafocused on feminist theatre, performance tre the same week in September. A studies, feminist theory, gender and sexuality, well-known Chekhov quote: “What and critical theory. a fine weather today! Can’t choose

56 BLUE WINGS

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The fast connection between Asia and Europe

HEL

#MATCH MADE IN

PRESENTS

T H E A R T O S A A R I I N V I TAT I O N A L

WELCOME TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD Finnair and Finavia organized the world’s most unique event at Helsinki Airport, where East and West are equally close.

Learn more about the event and see how Arto and other skaters got together to test the fast connection between East and West at matchmadeinhel.com.

FEELING

THE NIZHNY BEAT

WE TAKE AN INSIDER GLIMPSE INTO THE VIBRANT MUSIC SCENE OF THE RUSSIAN CITY OF NIZHNY NOVGOROD THAT IS SLOWLY BUT SURELY OPENING UP TO VISITORS AFTER YEARS IN OBSCURITY. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY KAI JAUHIAINEN

Evgeni Gurin is often dubbed as “the voice of Nizhny Novgorod”.

A path around Kremlin offers best view along massive Oka and Volga rivers, which meet in Nizhny Novgorod.

Anna Kuratova loves her hometown – so much is obvious to anyone.

“I have lived here all my life. This city just gives me so much,” says Kuratova, an English teacher who is studying to become a barista.

So far, Nizhny Novgorod has seen very few tourists, in fact so few that there are no local guidebooks available in English. Closed to foreigners during the Soviet era due to the military industry, the city is now slowly opening up to international tourism. Compared with Moscow, the pace of life is unhurried and the cost of living much more affordable. It is a city of many faces, from the elegant historical centre to the bleak Soviet-era suburbs, with old wooden houses in between, desperately fighting the ravages of time and mould.

Kuratova is proud of the local music scene. Every touring Russian band and artist stops here, but the city has an active scene of its own bubbling just under the surface. We join Kuratova on a whistle-stop tour of Nizhny Novgorod’s musical streets.

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THE MODERN BARD Following in the footsteps of the legendary Soviet singer-songwriter Vladimir Vysotsky, 43-year-old Evgeni Gurin is a proud upholder of the Russian bard tradition. “You should see him on stage. He is really charismatic,” says Kuratova. Your chances of catching “the voice of Nizhny Novgorod” are good, as Gurin gives 160 concerts a year.

Gurin first heard Western rock while serving in the Soviet army in East Germany in 1987-88. Music by The Doors, Bob Marley and Frank Zappa made a lasting impression, inspiring a budding career as one of Nizhny Novgorod’s first buskers in the early ’90s.

“I think we street musicians helped educate people and refine their taste in music,” says Gurin, who has released five albums with a band called Corsar. Although lyrics are important to Gurin, his songs speak equally to listeners without any knowledge of Russian. And his heart will always belong to the banks of the Volga. “I love Nizhny Novgorod. This city is like a magnet.”

Evgeni Gurin EGURIN.RU/CONERT

VAULT THE VOLGA

Dancing on Bolshoi Pokrovskaja street

FOURTEEN YEARS A BUSKER Gregori Smirnoff starts a new song. He is not the only busker on the Bolshoi Pokrovskaya, Nizhny’s main pedestrian street – but he is surely the most ambitious.

“Nobody collects money by whipping their hat around. I keep mine on the ground. I have my artistic pride,” he says.

Smirnoff has been playing the streets for 14 years, even as far afield as Amsterdam and Paris.

“In Amsterdam a rich Russian threw 50 euros into my hat, showing off and competing with generosity,” he says.

Big money is not Smirnoff ’s motivation for playing, however. In fact, he prefers to play in Nizhny Novgorod even though he could make a better living elsewhere. “The Russian language is so important to me.

Here I can communicate with people better,” he says.

Crowded with buskers and lined by cosy restaurants, the Bolshoi Pokrovskaya runs through the old historical centre.

“Most buskers play in summertime from afternoon till late evening. It’s better to come after five,” advises Kuratova.

APART FROM its lively music scene, Nizhny Novgorod offers a wide range of other attractions, the most unique of which is the 3,700 metre cablecar ride from Nizhny Novgorod to Bor on the opposite bank of the Volga.

The station is hard to find, but if you walk along the Volga east from the Kremlin, you can see the cables spanning the river. The station is hidden behind some newly constructed buildings. Maintenance breaks may occur, but it’s worth the wait.

Nab. Kazanskaya 8 NNKD.RU

Violinist Sergei Brodehoi and pianist Ksenija Blinyovskaja are a familiar sight at Fonoteka.

Crossing the Volga by a cable car is a breathtaking experience.

BLUE NOTES IN FONOTEKA “This is a very nice place to play. Clubs like Fonoteka give us local jazz musicians excellent opportunities,” says violin player Sergei Brodehoi as he starts another song accompanied by skilful pianist Xenia Blinyovskaya.

Nizhny Novgorod is no New Orleans, but there are some fine jazz clubs such as the diminutive Fonoteka located along the Bolshoi Pokrovskaya. Finding it is no easy task, as the entrance is hidden in a small alley that is easy to overlook. Just look for the small, yellow oval-shaped neon light

on your right as you walk towards the Kremlin.

The music usually starts around 9 or 10 pm, and as Fonoteka is small, advance booking is a good idea. The kitchen is excellent and most of the staff speak English. It’s worth noting that musicians play near the entrance.

Fonoteka, Bolshoi Pokrovskaya 46 FONOTECA-NN.RU Phone bookings: (7)-831-4301582

GORKY REVISITED THE MAXIM GORKY MuseumHouse is a large, multi-roomed wooden house preserving the atmosphere of the famous Russian writer’s era. The old babushkas serving as guides are warm and friendly – but speak only Russian.

Maxim Gorky Museum-House museums.unn.ru/danco (in Russian) 19 Semashko Street

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DETROIT OF RUSSIA

NIZHNY NOVGOROD has carried this nickname ever since Henry Ford established the first modern Soviet car factory in the city in the 1920s. The GAZ History Museum displays vehicles from military cars to the glorious Volgas of the 1950s.

History museum of Russian car producer GAZ 95 Lenina st

Historic military equipment on display at the entrance of the Kremlin.

Enjoy Mussorgsky’s Boris Godunov at the State Academic Opera and Ballet.

A NIGHT AT THE OPERA Founded in 1935, the Nizhny Novgorod State Academic Opera and Ballet enjoys a great reputation as one of the most professional operas in Russia. Unfortunately for travellers, the opera publishes its programme only one month in advance. It is uploaded to the opera’s website on (approximately) the 10th of each month. Tickets can be purchased at the ticket office daily between 9 am and 3 pm, and seats are usually available. The season calendar offers

CREATURES OF THE NIGHT

INSIDE THE KREMLIN

THE KREMLIN compound contains a church, war monument and eternal flame, as well as an art museum featuring avant-garde works from the 1920s. The views along the Rivers Volga and Oka are incredible.

State art museum (inside the Kremlin) RUSSIANMUSEUMS.INFO/M1558

FINNAIR FLIES to Nizhny Novgorod three times weekly, and offers daily codeshare flights via Moscow.

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A taxi brings us to the lower banks of the Volga, which flows somewhere behind us while the Kremlin looms large like a huge shadow in the darkness. It is midnight and punk guitar riffs echo from the Shizgara, a club populated by tattooed rockers, blacklipstick wearing women and bold bouncers. The crowd looks wild, but the atmosphere could not be friendlier. “Hey, my friend is getting married tomorrow. Your vodka shot is on me,” calls somebody.

The Shizgara is surprisingly international, but Westerners are in the minority.

I am greeted by another sociable soul proffering vodka: “Hello, we are punks from Kazakhstan.” Take care – you could end up drinking more than you planned.

The band starts to play. Altamira is a cover-only band from Nizhy Novgorod, but nobody cares. After the last strains of Nirvana trail off, the crowd continues to sing “Smells Like Teen Spirit” as if they were at a karaoke bar. It may not be the trendiest club, but the fun continues till six in the morning. Fans of rock music also

classics such as Verdi’s Aida and Othello, Mussorgsky’s Boris Godunov, Tchaikovsky’s Eugene Onegin or Bizet’s Carmen.

More adventurous listeners can also choose from semi-unknown Russian operas on the season calendar – with a very good chance of going home satisfied after a great night at the opera.

State Academic Opera and Ballet Pushkin OPERANN.RU

Rock´n roll in Shizgara.

gravitate to another more centrally located rock club called – with disarming simplicity – Rock Bar. l Shizgara, Rozhdestvenskaya ulitsa, 20 WWW.SHIZGARACLUB.RY Rock Bar, 11 PISKUNOVA STREET

NIZHNY NOVGOROD STATE ACADEMIC OPERA AND BALLET PUSHKIN

An old luxury Volga from the ’50s at the GAZ museum.

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IPC I/O Motion Automation

Automation Software PLC Software NC/CNC Safety

Quiet, intimate locations abound at Imani Country House.

RUSTIC RELAXATION IN ALENTEJO

MOST HOLIDAYMAKERS ARE FAMILIAR WITH PORTUGAL’S WHITE-SAND BEACHES AND SUNNY RESORTS OF THE ALGARVE, OR THE SOPHISTICATED, FADO-INFUSED STREETS OF THE CAPITAL LISBON. BUT THE TRUE HEART OF PORTUGAL — WHERE THE BEST OF CULTURE AND CUISINE STILL FLOURISHES UNFETTERED — LIES IN RUSTIC ALENTEJO.

O

TEXT BY PETE BALDING

PHOTOS BY HERNAN PATIÑO

ften called the bread basket of Portugal, Alentejo is the country’s most sparsely populated region where agriculture is still king. Its bucolic scenery of quiet country roads and tiny farming villages remains unspoiled by tourism.

In addition to the rolling hills of cork oak and fields

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of waving grain, the region has a stunning, rugged coastline, granite-lined mountains, and ancient fortified towns and villages that have retained their Roman and medieval mystique.

CELTS, ROMANS AND MOORS Évora, with less than 60,000 inhabitants, is Alentejo’s largest city and its capital. It encapsulates the colour-

The views of ancient Monsaraz have changed little over the centuries.

ful history of the region. Originally settled by the Celts more than two millennia ago, it became an important crossroads of the Roman Empire. Parts of the city walls date from this time, and the surprisingly pristine Corinthian temple erected in the first century to honour Caesar Augustus stands resplendent in the town centre.

After the fall of Rome, the barbarian Visigoths ruled until they, too, were replaced by the Moors who ruled the area for over 400 years and restored the city to its former splendour. It became an important centre for Islamic art and learning. The Moors left an indelible mark, but they in turn were eventually expelled by the Portuguese king Alfonso I in 1166. Évora is also rich in Gothic and Renaissance art and architecture and is rightfully so a UNESCO World Heritage Site. “Èvora is where a unique combination of architectural marks from different periods and cultures

of the last 2,000 years is well preserved,” says local historian, guide, and University of Évora lecturer Libâneo Reis.

All the major sites of this rather small city are concentrated in less than a couple square kilometres easily covered on foot. “Évora may not be the biggest city in Portugal, but we certainly have the best place to live,” Reis adds.

MOUNTAINTOP FORTRESSES As old as Évora is, it’s a relative youngster compared to the nearby Cromlech of the Almendres megalithic complex, the biggest Neolithic construction in Iberia and one of the biggest in Europe. The first menhirs were erected at least 6,000 years ago. Several of the 100-plus carefully arranged granite boulders have faint undecipherable etchings in strange circular forms.

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WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Wine from Touriga Nacional grapes accompany farm-to-fork food at Encostas de Estromoz winery.

RESTAURANTE O ZÉ: This charming third-generation family-run restaurant in the Comporta village centre on the Sado Estuary is in the ricegrowing region of Alentejo. It’s not surprising that they specialise in delicious rice and seafood dishes.

RESTAURANTEOZE.COM/PT

RESTAURANTE A ESCOLA: Near Comporta, this popular restaurant serves traditional Portuguese dishes in an old, renovated schoolhouse. Loyal customers return to this out-of-the-way spot to enjoy the high quality slow-food cuisine, friendly service, and field hand-sized portions.

RESTAURANTEAESCOLA.PAI.PT

TASCA DO CELSO: With an extensive wine cellar specialised in the best wines of Alentejo and Portugal, this restaurant in the seaside town of Vila Nova de Milfontes is a local favourite and also has the distinctive atmosphere to accompany the fine food.

WONDERFULLAND.COM/WONDER2006/EAT/ CELSO

RESTAURANTE DOM JOAQUIM: Perhaps the most famous restaurant in Évora with an awardwinning menu, it comes highly recommended by the locals. It specialises in traditional Alentejo dishes like Arroz de Lebre (hare with rice), Borrego Assado (roast lamb), and some of the best Bacalhau (salted cod) in Portugal.

RESTAURANTEDOMJOAQUIM.PAI.PT

HERDADE DA MOLHADINHA NOVA: This family-owned winery estate with its own vineyards, olive groves, hotel, and gourmet restaurant has it all. They also raise the famous Alentejo Dop cattle and free-range black pigs that root among the olive and cork oak trees.

MALHADINHANOVA.PT

ENCOSTAS DE ESTREMOZ: A premier winery featuring vintages from Alentejo, they specialise in reds from Touriga Nacional grapes, and whites from Roupeiro, Fernão Pires, and Perrum. Tastings daily.

VINHOSDOALENTEJO.PT

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“IN MANY WAYS THIS IS STILL A PIECE OF PARADISE.” Alentejo’s historical riches abound. Two medieval mountaintop fortresses, Monsaraz in central Alentejo and Marvão in upper Alentejo are amazingly well preserved. Walking the quiet cobblestone streets of Monsaraz in the early morning before the shops and restaurants open, it’s easy to imagine what life may have been like so many hundreds of years ago.

Marvão, perched precariously on top a narrow mountain ridge with a commanding view of neighbouring Spain, has recently undergone extensive renovation. It’s a fairy-tale town. All that’s missing is the fair damsel dressed in diaphanous robes and tall pointed hat peering from the castle turret.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Besides the abundance of historical wonders and pastoral ambiance, Alentejo is also filled with natural beauty. The jagged cliffs of the Atlantic coastline interspersed with secluded beaches and the rugged granite mountains on the Spanish border entice the eager walker.

“In many ways this is still a piece of paradise,” says Antønio Falcão, an enthusiastic supporter of the

Hillsides of wildflowers dotted with mighty oaks cover much of central Alentejo.

Portugal

Atlantic Ocean MARVÃO

ÉVORA

LISBOA COMPORTA

ALCÁCER DO SAL

MONSARAZ

GRANDOLA VILA NOVA DES MILFONTES

350-kilometre-long network of marked hiking trails that form the Rota Vicentina. According to Antønio, who is also an officer in the related association, Casas Brancas, the concept is to bring together the rural aspects of the region’s historical, agricultural and fishing traditions and the unspoiled nature that flourishes here.

“It’s creative rural tourism promoting a whole set of experiences including gastronomy, music, the sea, and traditional handicrafts. As for the flora and fauna, we can still spot some slices of virgin nature where the environment is still untouched,” Falcão says. “And anything we plan will have all the concerns of sustainability purposes upfront,” he adds.

To be able to walk from one rural accommodation to the next along well-marked traffic-free paths and unpaved roads creates an intimate experience that’s hard to come by in today’s busy world. Their websites (rotavicentina.com and casasbrancas.pt) have extensive information and advice on how to plan hikes and lists of the dozens of partners offering food, accommodation, tours, taxis, and baggage transfer to help the happy wanderer.

Falcão warns, though, that in July and August high temperatures can easily exceed a scorching 30 degrees Celsius.

Alentejo might be the hidden pearl of Portugal, but in reality its rustic natural beauty is easily accessible even on foot, and when you add high quality affordable accommodation, top class restaurants with honest farm-to-fork food, and local wineries producing excel-

ODEMIRA

lent wines you have the ideal destination for the discerning traveller in search of rustic relaxation off the beaten track. l FINNAIR OFFERS up to five weekly non-stop codeshare departures to Lisbon.

The outgoing tides strand fishing boats on the Sado Estuary.

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TIPS FOR HOTELS AND RETREATS

Play chess with a chorus of songbirds at Imani Country House.

TURISMO RURAL BREJO DA AMADA: Zen and the art of relaxation are on offer at this rural retreat in Grândola. Yoga and meditation come easy in such tranquil surroundings. The Dalai Lama is a former guest.

HORTA DA MOURA: This park-like hotel complex lies just outside the ancient stone walls of Monsaraz. The only things older than the fortress are the 2000-year-old olive trees that dot the hotel grounds.

BREJODAMADA.COM

HORTADAMOURA.PT

QUINTA DO CHOCALHINHO: This rural accommodation nestled in the olive groves near the town of Odemira is on the Rota Vicentina walking route. Experience Portuguese hospitality at this rustically luxurious farmhouse that has been in the Freitas family for three generations.

IMANI COUNTRY HOUSE: Popular with honeymooners and those romantically inclined, this rural hotel near the city of Évora gives one the feeling of being in a beautifully photographed art film especially when watching the sunrise over the nearby Neolithic menhirs of the Almendres Cromlech megalithic complex.

QUINTADOCHOCALHINHO.COM

Luís Graça of Naturarte Campo offers riding lessons with Lusitanos, Portugal’s national horse.

IMANI.PT

QUINTA DO BARRANCO DA ESTRADA: Nature abounds at this quiet lakeside lodging in lower Alentejo. Popular with nature photographers and birders hoping to catch sight of a rare Iberian bird, expat owner Frank McClintock offers guided tours to help them do just that.

BOUTIQUE HOTEL O POEJO: Cosy, friendly, and unique, the boutique hotel of O Poejo is also an ideal base for exploring the nearby fortress town of Marvão and the Natural Park of Serra de S. Mamede.

PARADISE-IN-PORTUGAL.COM

A-OPOEJO.COM

Jo 40 vuotta yksilöllisiä kivitaloja.

vuotta 1974-2014

www.jamera.fi

N I T S E V IN A L O V U KO

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THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO DO AND SEE COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY MIRVA LEMPIÄINEN

The camel fair

OCTOBER 30-NOVEMBER 6 PUSHKAR-CAMEL-FAIR.COM

Sailing challenge

Galloping glamour

American bacon

The 10th Route du Rhum race will see 90 European seafarers competing over who can cross the Atlantic the fastest with a monoor multihull sailboat. The contest has taken place every four years since 1978. Spectators can observe the start of the race in Saint-Malo, France and greet the sailors before the Nov. 2 departure. The contest ends a few weeks later in Pointe-à-Pitre, Guadeloupe.

Titled “the race that stops the nation,” the Emirates Melbourne Cup is Australia’s most important thoroughbred horse race – and a major reason to party. Some 100,000 spectators don their most fashionable outfits with flamboyant hats at the Flemington Racecourse, while 700 million people watch the race on TV. The Cup, now held for the 154th time, is a public holiday in Melbourne.

Pennsylvania’s Bacon Fest serves the popular breakfast meat in myriad forms: the more unusual treats include bacon jam, baconstuffed pretzels and bacon cupcakes. The young festival has grown exponentially from 9,000 visitors in 2012 to 17,000 last year. Live bands, bacon-eating contests, cooking lessons and roller skaters dressed as bacon slices accompany food vendors.

OCTOBER 31-NOVEMBER 15 ROUTEDURHUM.COM

NOVEMBER 4 MELBOURNECUP.COM

OCTOBER 4 PENNSYLVANIABACONFESTIVAL.COM

ISTOCKPHOTO

ISTOCKPHOTO

Over 200,000 people are expected to gather in Pushkar, India during an annual camel fair that dates back to the early 1900s. Musicians, acrobats, and bazaars compete for attention with some 50,000 camels that participate in races and parade in beauty contests. Thousands of visitors bathe in the holy Pushkar Lake during the religious full-moon festival of Kartik Purnima, which falls on the last day of the camel fair.

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Wrestling in Japan

An 11-day family festival brings the famous movie Pirates of the Caribbean to life in the Cayman Islands. Jack Sparrow look-a-likes wander around George Town during the country’s largest celebration that consists of seven Heritage Days, street parades, fireworks and pirate-themed activities. Invented in 1977, the festival attracts 40,000 visitors annually.

A tradition since 1958, Japan’s final Grand Sumo Tournament of the year takes place in the city of Fukuoka. Each tournament day starts and ends with the beating of taiko drums. The juniors face off in the mornings, leaving the afternoons for top-division wrestlers whose contests are televised. The night finishes with a bow-twirling ceremony.

NOVEMBER 6-16 PIRATESWEEKFESTIVAL.COM

NOVEMBER 9-23 SUMO.OR.JP/EN/INDEX

MICHIEL LANDEWEERD

Pirates week

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ISTOCKPHOTO

THIS MONTH AROUND THE WORLD

Dutch flicks

Inspirational talks

Film buffs gather in the Netherlands to watch the more than 300 films featured in the 27th International Documentary Festival Amsterdam. The movies include thought-provoking premieres, many on political issues.

Discussions continue at debates, workshops and master classes.

The IDFA opens with Heddy Honigmann’s documentary Around the World in 50 Concerts.

Since its inception in 2009, more than 10,000 TEDx events have been held in 167 countries. Modelled after the big TED conferences focusing on technology, entertainment and design, TEDx brings “ideas worth spreading” to a local level and online. This November the event will be held in Johannesburg where South Africans discuss the country’s digital revolution.

NOVEMBER 19-30 IDFA.NL/INDUSTRY.ASPX

NOVEMBER 22 TED.COM/TEDX/EVENTS/11892

be rewarded. be one.

The oneworld alliance just got even bigger.

SriLankan Airlines, TAM Airlines and US Airways are now all part of oneworld, giving you 4,000 more daily departures to choose from across the globe. And for frequent flyers, oneworld offers more ways than ever for Finnair Plus members to earn and redeem Finnair Plus points. Learn more at oneworld.com

member of

be connected Welcome to oneworld, an alliance of the world’s leading airlines committed to providing the highest level of service and convenience across almost 1,000 destinations worldwide. Whenever Finnair can’t take you to your final destination, we encourage you to travel with our oneworld partner airlines.

Enjoy an array of special privileges and rewards — which include earning and redeeming Finnair Plus points on all oneworld airlines and, for Finnair Plus Platinum and Gold members, access to over 600 premium airport lounges.

oneworld alliance members

be recognised As a oneworld traveller, satisfaction awaits you around the globe. Your Finnair Plus status is recognised across all member airlines. And you are entitled to a range of benefits, which are provided according to the following oneworld tier levels, no matter which cabin class you are flying in:

*Access to preferred or pre-reserved seating is in accordance with the individual policy of the oneworld member airline operating the flight. First and business class check-in desks and lounges are not available at all airports. Fast track is not available at all airports. oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). airberlin, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LAN, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines, TAM Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies.

TAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld. Some limitations and exceptions may apply. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/benefits.

be global Round-the-world travel is easy, flexible and affordable with oneworld Explorer. Fares are based on the number of continents you visit or pass through, and class of travel. Select your route, plan your stopovers, even adjust your itinerary. oneworld Explorer means ultimate flexibility and value.

To book, or to discover more multi-continent and single-continent options, visit www.oneworld.com/flights

Scandinavians are known for being masters of the great outdoors, but they’ve only managed to get there by learning to dress the part.

THE COLD PLAY WHAT GOES INTO MAKING GREAT COLD WEATHER GEAR? WE EXPLORE THE PHYSICS OF INSULATION WITH A FEW NORDIC COMPANIES WHOSE BUSINESS IT IS TO MAKE OUR FRIGID WINTERS TOASTY WARM.

BY ROGER NORUM PHOTOS BY ISTOCKPHOTO AND MANUFACTURERS

W

hen I was a young boy, staying warm come wintertime meant donning an ill-fitting, hand-me-down jacket, grabbing an itchy woolen cap and scarf, and heading outside to grin and bear it. How times have changed. A gaggle of fancy cold-weather technologies has been edging their way into our closets in recent years, from charcoal-fuelled handwarmers and heat-warming pads to futurist technofibres such as Dermizax, Gore-Tex and Thinsulate. There is even one German company today that intricately weaves silver threads into its fabrics to generate a warm electric current when hooked up to a battery pack!

It turns out, however, that there is much more to staying warm than just inserting a fancy-sounding technology into a jacket liner. In fact, in the Nordic countries, where it’s been cold for longer than humans have been alive, the best local outfitters often stay close to the basics, adding a dash of modern textile know-how and a touch of Scandi design flair to give

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form to function, adding some good looks for good measure. Clothing companies up north are now developing outerwear and innerwear that blend natural with synthetic to get the best of both worlds.

SHOULDA COULDA WOOLDA The human body most often experiences heat loss in several situations: when idle; when insufficiently covered; and when in contact with water. In ideal circumstances, then, cold weather clothing should maintain body’s heat balance under physical duress and in varying environmental conditions. There are thus five key elements that ensure solid winter clothing design: thickness, dryness, wind resistance, consistency and flexibility. Many people often choose cotton because it is a “natural” fabric, but what they forget is that cotton is a highly absorbent material, a property that makes it very bad for the cold. As Oxford-based haberdasher Guy Alexander explains, cotton “will soak up moisture, holding it until it gets the right conditions to let it dry.

Wool, however,” he says, “now that’s a different story.”

Humans’ use of wool began thousands of years ago when our forefathers donned woolly skins of the wild sheep they killed for food in order to stay warm. This durable textile provided instant protection from heat, cold, wind and rain, keeping its wearers cool during the daytime and warm at night, while absorbing moisture without getting wet. While wool remains resistant to water and keeps the skin dry, it is also something of a “self-cleaning fibre,” meaning that wool garments don’t smell of sweat. Today, wool is used in many more products than you might think: astronauts don wool for comfort in spaceships, polar scientists wear it when things get well below zero; sailors put it on to navigate the high seas. And this fabric is in no danger of going anywhere: there are roughly one billion sheep on the planet.

Torbjörn Ryman of the aptly-named Swedish outfitter Woolpower, sums up the value of the fabric. “Wool transports away moisture and traps a lot of air inside the fibre,” Ryman says, “and it’s this air that provides its insulating function.” He recommends dressing in layers of material that won’t trap moisture – using wool on wool until the last layer of shell is best. And he should know: Woolpower teamed up with scientists half a century ago to produce tubularknit thermals for the Swedish military. Today, their functional, thin and multi-layerable clothing keeps the annual builders of the Jukkasjärvi Ice Hotel very warm.

The key to the best protection against the cold, however, is combining the natural and the synthetic.

Woolpower’s gear, for example, melds Merino wool with a polyamide fabric that results in a strong, elastic, moisture-resistant and quick-drying blend, which they term Ullfrotte Original. As Ryman explains, “Ullfrotte is an optimal blend – wool for warm and moist wicking properties and synthetic for shape and durability, knitted with terry loops on the inside that maximise the trapping of air and get really good insulation.”

Other Nordic clothing companies have similarly relied on wool and wool blends from day one, integrating both the natural and the man-made. Devold, a Norwegian group that has outfitted fishermen working along Norway’s harsh coastline since 1853, has developed a range of technologies that work to trap heat and show off fashion, though the fabric used in much of their gear is long-fibred Merino wool. Another Norwegian outfitter, Bergans of Norway, took its gear to the masses after pioneering the first anatomical rucksack in 1908 and outfitting Sir Edmund Hillary’s ascent of Everest. The company’s patented Tecnowool textile combines traditional organic wool with modern fabrics, reinforcing the excellent heat-preserving qualities of wool, better regulating body temperature and transporting moisture away, thereby increasing thermal insulation.

WIND POWER In addition to moisture, there is one primary threat to your warmth when in the great outdoors: wind.

“Wind does away with that warm boundary hovering around our bodies, which makes it a good deal colder,” explains Guy Alexander. This causes the moisture on your skin to evaporate, which quickly cools the body.

COLD GEAR PICKS 1.

THESE TOP-OF-THE-LINE NORDIC GARMENTS PAIR DESIGN FLAIR WITH DEFINITIVE WINTER FUNCTIONALITY.

2.

3.

1. Bergans of Norway Trolltind Jacket: A waterproof and windproof Dermizax NX shell will trap in warmth and give you freedom of movement.

4.

2. Bergans of Norway Storen Pants: Multiple layers in the legs allow for several levels of insulation as well as breathability and durability.

3. Devold Expedition Hoodie: A merino wool hoodie will keep you warm and dry; a touch of synthetic fibre adds aqueducts which transport moisture.

5.

4. Haglöf Magi II Down Hood: Some windproof 800-fill power goose down jackets are so lightweight, they can pack down to a ball the size of a farmer’s hand. Great for skiing and après drinks.

5. Haglöf Actives Warm II Hood: Melding merino and polyester means improved warmth-to-weight ratio, while elasticated bindings seal in warmth. This hoodie is perfect for a brisk morning run.

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THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS BAD WEATHER, ONLY BAD CLOTHING.

When outside and active, the key to staying warm and dry is to layer up.

Your base layer should remain irritation free while your outer shell should have windproof and waterproof properties.

To work against this, Alexander advises having a shell that forms a tight seal around your neck, wrists and pants hem; otherwise wind will enter and force out warmer air.

Synthetics are a good bet when it comes to wind resistance. Polyester, used across much outdoor gear such as Nike’s Dri-Fit and Uniqlo’s HeatTech technologies, uses tightly woven fibres to keep moisture from getting through the fabric and a chemical coating deflecting water often helps with this. But be careful: Alexander cautions that nylon, while often chosen by some people as a slim under layer, is a definite no-no.

“With nylon you will freeze your you-know-whatsits off,” he advises. “It has a very high thermal conductivity and will drain your body heat and remain wet for hours.”

When it comes to windproof shells, Nordic companies are doing interesting things with integrating advanced fabric technologies. Haglöfs, based out of Avesta, Sweden, has made its own innovations with Gore-Tex, the waterproof, breathable form of Teflon

PANIIKKI?

PUNASTUTKO? SYMPAATTINEN SALPAUS,

that makes fabrics impenetrable to liquid while still allowing water vapour molecules to pass through.

The company’s best-selling jackets – the revolutionary Couloir Pro and Roc Fiction jackets – mix a waterproof soft shell fabric with the properties of a hard shell and a ski jacket, utilising its multi-layer ripstop and elastane takes on Gore-Tex. The garments then integrate a hybrid brushed mesh and flannel lining, with a durable water-repellent treatment that further improves water shedding. What’s more, some 35 per cent of all of Haglöfs’ OEKO-TEX certified fabrics are made of recycled or recyclable materials. Across the border, Bergans of Norway integrates its trendy outdoor products with Dermizax technology, a waterproof, windproof and highly stretchable laminate whose doubled perspiration wicking allows moisture through with minimal condensation.

FUNCTION AND FORM What else can we do to stave off the cold? This one may sound obvious, but it’s often best that everything fits just right, too: snug clothes that hug your skin will enable wicking away from the body, which means that excess sweat will be transferred to the garment, after which it can evaporate. Most important of all, though, is layering. Putting on an outer shell, an insulating middle layer and a wicking base layer should keep even the most cold-blooded of us warm.

Whatever brand you fancy, it is essential to learn about the quality – and the qualities – of what you’re wearing. Name brands and stylish gear are great, but be certain that they use fabrics that serve the Nordic tenets of both function and form. As that well-known Scandinavian proverb puts it: “There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing." l

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BLUSHING?

SYMPATHETIC BLOCK,

apu ilman lääkkeitä

help without drugs

Täytä lomake netissä, saat palautteen pikaisesti!

Fill up the questionnaire in the net, you’ll get feedback right away!

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Tampereen Teatterissa Komedia, joka lumosi Broadwayn

VILLIKALKKUNA Ohjelmistossa myös:

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Mamban 30-vuotisjuhla ja levynjulkaisukonsertti la 25.10. klo 19 Helsingin Kulttuuritalolla Liput 20-34 €

Kulttuurimyymälä APLODI p. 010 346 2000

Liput 39,50 e www.viihdeorkesteri.fi

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more than 3000 families across the world have dream homes created and manufactured by hirsiset. create your new home with hirsiset, an established high quality home designer and manufacturer.

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Tunturinlaita -loma-asunnot rakennetaan Levitunturin laitaan latujen, rinteiden sekä keskustan palveluiden välittömään läheisyyteen.

A -talo valmistuu 06/15 Myynti: www.westhouse.fi www.kiinteistomaailma.fi/levi Kohteen showroom: Torikuja 5, 99130 Levi

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www.ylikraka.fi

IHMISEN KOKOINEN ASIANAJOTOIMISTO Annankatu 1, Helsinki www.hotelanna.fi info@hotelanna.fi Tel. +358 9 616 621

Helsinki | Jyväskylä | Keuruu | Mikkeli | Salo | Tampere

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ECONOMIC STRUCTURE Employed persons by industry, 2nd quarter 2014

FINLAND IN FIGURES

MANUFACTURING Food prod. and textiles 14%

Construction and energy Miscellaneous services

FOREIGN TRADE 2013 EXPORTS BY PRODUCTS

BY ACTIVITY: 55,903 MEUR (per cent of total)

14%

34%

20%

Forest industry prod

Other manufactured goods 22%

8%

25%

Chemical ind prod

11%

Electric and electronics

Agriculture

4%

16%

Other industries

IMPORTS BY USE IN 2013: 58,168 MEUR (per cent of total)

Energy Capital goods

Metal and engineering products 48%

Trade and hotel

Transport and communications

MONTHLY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL IN HELSINKI 2013 MEAN MAX MIN RAINFALL AVERAGE 1981-2010

Intermediate goods

Financial and business services

16%

10%

13%

Machinery and equipment

Forest products 15%

14%

14%

Metals and metal products

Manufacturing

0

C 0 C 0 C mm

I

II

III

IV

V

VI

VII VIII

IX

X

XI

XII

52

36

38

32

37

57

63

56

76

70

58

-4,9 -1,8 -5,2 3,1 12,6 17,5 18,1 17,2 12,6 7,5 4,7 2,3 3,3 6,0 4,3 12,9 22,6 28,6 25,6 25,5 20,3 14,4 9,4 7,8 -22,6 -9,4 -18,4 -5,9 2,1 9,0 11,3 8,6 0,3 -3,1 -7,0 -10,3 80

Non-durable goods Durable consumer goods 0%

5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35%

EXPORTS AND IMPORTS (MEUR) TOTAL 2013 SWEDEN GERMANY RUSSIA USA NETHERLANDS CHINA GREAT BRITTAIN FRANCE

EXPORTS

55,903 6,477 5,411 5,354 3,559 3,463 3,170 2,898 1,767

IMPORTS

58,168 6,656 7,323 10,519 1,959 3,348 3,737 1,836 1,915

POPULATION 5.5 mil­lion, giv­ing an av­er­age den­sity of 18 people per sq. km of land area; an­nu­al ­growth ­rate 0.5%­ Life ex­pec­tan­cy: men 77.8 and women 83.8 years. As in most oth­er in­dus­tri­al coun­tries, t­ he middle-aged ­groups predominate.

Av­er­age house­hold s­ ize: 2.1 persons. 54% of the households ­live in single-family hous­es; 44% in apart­ment b ­ locks. 85% are urban-dwellers, ­with 1 mil­lion in the Hel­sin­ki Area, which includes Es­poo and Vantaa.

Oth­er ma­jor cit­ies in Finland in­clude Tam­pere, Tur­ku, Ou­lu and Jyväskylä.

Languages: 89.3% ­speak Finn­ish; 5.3% Swedish.

Religion: 75% are Lu­ther­an; 1% Orthodox.

Education: 81% of the pop­ul­a­ tion aged 25 to 64 ­have com­ plet­ed upper secondary or tertiary ed­u­ca­tion and 37% (the highest percentage in the EU countries) ­have uni­ver­sity or other tertiary qualifications.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON CURRENT TRENDS IN FINLAND, SEE:

80 BLUE WINGS

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AREA 390,920 sq. kil­o­me­tres or 150,900 sq. m ­ iles, of ­which 9% is fresh water; land area is 303, 909 ­sq. kil­o­me­tres or 117,337 sq. miles. There are 188,000 lakes.

6% of the l­and is ­under cul­ti­va­tion, ­with bar­ley and ­oats the ­main crops. Fo­rests (main­ly ­pine and ­spruce) cov­er 68% of the country.

GOVERNMENT Sove­reign par­lia­men­tary re­pub­lic ­since 1917. From 1809– 1917, au­ton­om ­ ous G ­ rand D ­ uchy with­in the Rus­sian Em­pire; be­fore ­that ­part of the King­dom of Swe­den for centuries.

The pres­i­dent is elect­ed eve­r y six years. The new president of Finland, Sauli Niinistö took office in March 2012. The 200 mem­bers of Par­lia­ment are elect­ed for fouryear terms.

Finland has been a member of the European Union since January 1995.

WORKING LIFE 80% of wom­en aged 25–54 are employed outside the home.

Av­er­age month­ly earn­ings, 1st

quarter 2014: men 3,593 euros; women 2,976 euros. Un­em­ploy­ment ­rate 9.2%, in June 2014 according to Labour Force Survey.

ECONOMY GDP 2013: 193 billion euros, the annual change in volume -1.4%.

Annual inflation rate as of February 2014: 0.9%.

Currency: Euro.

GROSS DOMESTIC PRODUCT PER CAPITA 2013* (EUR)

Nominal

Adjusted for Purchasing Power Standard

NORWAY 75,900 49,200 DENMARK 44,400 32,100 SWEDEN 43,800 32,700 USA 40,000 39,900 FINLAND 35,600 28,700 GERMANY 33,300 32,000 FRANCE 31,300 27,800 UK 29,600 27,200 EU27 25,900 25,800

Eurostat

Source: Statistics Finland

This is Finland at WWW.FINLAND.FI (English, Russian, Chinese, French, German, Spanish and Portuguese) News by Finnfacts at WWW.GOODNEWSFROMFINLAND.COM Findicator: WWW.FINDICATOR.FI

Tervetuloa / Välkommen/ Welcome / Bienvenue / Willkommen / Добро пожаловать / Tere tulemast / ようこそ / Bienvenido / 欢迎 / Benvenuti / Velkommen / 환영 / Witamy /

www.finnair.fi www.finnair.se www.finnair.com

www.finnair.fr

www.finnair.de

www.finnair.com/ru

www.finnair.ee www.finnair.com/jp

www.finnair.es

www.finnair.dk

www.finnair.com/cn

www.finnair.kr

www.finnair.it

www.finnair.fi/pl

Flying Finnair AUTOMATED BORDER CONTROL

82

BEFORE AND DURING THE FLIGHT

83

INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

85

HELSINKI AIRPORT

86

MAPS

88

CORPORATE AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY

92

FLEET

94

FREQUENT FLYER BENEFITS

95

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FINNAIR INFO HOW TO USE THE AUTOMATED BORDER CONTROL GATES

Place your passport with the info page face down on the reader. Please wait while your passport is being read for biographical and biometric data. When the scan is complete, the gate will open.

日本人で、ICパスポート（※）をお持ちの方 は、2012年5月から試験的に、出入国審査場において 自動化ゲートをご利用頂けます。 ヘルシンキ空港のシェンゲンエリアから、日本に向 けて出国される際にお使い頂くことが可能です。 まず、パスポートの顔写真ページを読み取ります。 該当ページを開き、読み取り機に向けて置いてくだ さい。 こちらで個人情報と生体認証データを読み取ります。

Enter through the gate and turn right. Please remove your possible backpack and stand on the footprints on the floor. Remove your glasses and hat. Stand still and look directly at the screen keeping your face visible. The camera will compare your facial image with the biometric feature scanned from your passport. Wait until the second gate opens.

The border check for EU, EEA, and Swiss nationals is completed when the gate opens. Third country nationals must now move towards the border guard, who will check your entry stamp and mark your passport with an exit stamp.

Smooth crossings

82 BLUE WINGS

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二番目のゲートが開いたら、出入国審査官のカウン ターにお進み下さい。パスポートの入国スタンプを 確認した後、出国スタンプを押印致します。 ご協力頂きまして有難うございます。 ※ ICパスポートとは、2006年3月20日から申請受付 を開始したIC旅券、つまり冊子中央にICチップ及び 通信を行うための。 アンテナを格納したカードが組み込まれているバイ オメトリック・パスポートのことです。

www.finnair.com/jp

대한민국 전자여권을 소지한 승객께서는 유럽에서 한국으로 입국 시, 헬싱키 공항에서 자동출국심사 서비스를 이용 하실 수 있습니다.

Have a nice journey!

ARRIVING AND DEPARTING passengers at Helsinki Airport can use the 30 automated border control gates. Fifteen of these are located in the departure hall. The Finnish Border Guard’s automated border control helps serve growing passenger volumes at Helsinki Airport.

EU, EEA and Swiss nationals with biometric passports can take advantage of the automated border control gates. Third country nationals, who are exempt from the visa require-

ゲートが開いたら中に入り、右を向いてください。 カメラで顔認証を行い、パスポートの顔写真と照 合します。

ment and hold a biometric passport, may also use the automated border control upon departure. The service is available for Australian, Canadian, Japanese, New Zealand, South Korean and U.S. citizens. The automated border control is monitored by a border guard ensuring secure border crossings.

Please note that passengers travelling with an infant, baggage trolley or wheelchair must use the manual border control line.

우선, 전자여권의 사진 페이지를 인식장치에 올려주시기를 바랍니다. 이 과정에서 여권정보가 시스템에 자동 인식됩니다. 첫 번째 게이트가 열리면 안으로 들어가 오른쪽에 위치한 카메라로 안면인증을 거치게 됩니다. 이후 마지막 게이트에서 출입국관리 직원의 출국확인도장을 받으시면 됩니다. 보다 간편하고 빠른 본 자동시스템의 많은 이용 바랍니다. 대한민국 전자여권은?

2008년 8월 25일 이후 발급된 여권으로 표지 하단부에 전자칩과 안테나가 내장 되어 있는 여권입니다.

www.finnair.com/KR

FINNAIR INFO BEFORE THE FLIGHT

BEFORE DEPARTURE

Speed up your takeoff!

CHECKING IN TO your Finnair flight is quick and easy. You can save time and reduce hassle by checking in at a self-service kiosk at the airport, online 36 hours before departure or by text message.

Find out more about our check-in services at WWW.FINNAIR.COM. IN CASE A FLIGHT IS DELAYED OR CANCELLED, Finnair will make every effort to keep you informed via SMS or e-mail.

Please make sure that you have provided Finnair with up-to-date contact details. Find out more information on flight disruptions at FINNAIR.COM/FLIGHTINFO.

Finnair in a nutshell • FINNAIR IS NUMBER ONE in air traffic between Northern Europe and Asia.

• IN 2013, Finnair carried 9.3 million passengers.

Sky Bistro replaces complimentary cold snack service on European flights On short-haul flights in Economy Class, Finnair will introduce Sky Bistro in November, a wider mix-and-match selection of seasonal, high-quality foods and beverages combining the best tastes of Europe and Asia.

Sky Bistro, which will be available on nearly all European flights, replaces the complimentary cold snack service that had been offered on some European flights lasting longer than two hours. On all flights in all classes, coffee and tea and water remain complimentary – as does Finnair’s signature refreshment, blueberry juice.

In Business Class, meals remain inclusive in the ticket price.

• CLOSE TO ONE AND A HALF MILLION passengers fly between Asia and Europe via Helsinki each year.

• IN 2013, THE NUMBER OF PASSENGERS on scheduled flights totalled 8.5 million.

Domestic travel accounted for 1.6 million passengers. Passenger total on leisure flights was nearly 768,000.

• IN 2013, FINNAIR TRANSPORTED more than 146,000 tonnes of cargo.

• ESTABLISHED IN 1923, Finnair is one of the world’s oldest operating airlines.

• FINNAIR’S ROUTE NETWORK includes more than 50 international destinations.

NOVEMBER 2014

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FINNAIR INFO DURING THE FLIGHT

IN THE AIR

Welcome aboard!

SAFETY

PERKS FOR KIDS

• Safety information is presented by the cabin crew at the start of each flight. This information is also listed on the safety instruction card in your seat pocket.

• Children are offered puzzles or colouring books on intercontinental scheduled flights and leisure flights.

• Safety belts must remain fastened when the “Fasten safety belt” sign is on. For safety reasons we recommend keeping them fastened even when the sign has been switched off.

• Passengers may use MP3, CD or DVD players as well as laptop computers when the “Fasten safety belt” sign is off.

• Music and video entertainment is available on intercontinental scheduled flights and leisure flights.

• On the Airbus A340-300 and Airbus A330-300 aircraft, games are available as part of the personal entertainment system.

MEALS • Meals or snacks are served on most international flights. Pre-order meals are available for Economy Class passengers on most European flights.

• Complimentary non-alcoholic beverages are available on scheduled flights.

ENTERTAINMENT • Inflight entertainment on intercontinental scheduled flights and leisure flights includes music, movies and an Airshow programme, which allows passengers to track their flight on a map.

• On scheduled flights, headphones are available free of charge. On leisure flights, the entertainment fee includes headphones.

• Alcoholic drinks are for sale in Economy Class on European scheduled flights, except on routes to and from Riga, St. Petersburg, Stockholm and Tallinn.

• In Economy Class on intercontinental scheduled flights we serve a hot meal with complimentary wine and beer.

• On European and intercontinental scheduled flights, coffee, tea, juice and soft drinks are complimentary.

• In Business Class all drinks are free of charge. On leisure flights, there is a charge for all beverages.

• On flights to and from northern Finland, alcoholic beverages are sold after 9 am.

84 BLUE WINGS

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Inflight shopping • You may order products in advance from our large and affordable pre-order assortment at www.finnairshop.com. On most flights we also have onboard sales items. The selection varies by route.

• Tax-free products, alcohol and tobacco are sold on aircraft flying to and from destinations outside the European Union. These include all intercontinental flights, as well as Ekaterinburg, Geneva, Moscow and Zurich. On flights within the EU, products are affordable but not tax-free.

• Due to limited space onboard, alcohol and tobacco products are not for sale on flights operated with Embraer aircraft, but these products may be ordered through the pre-order service.

• Gift items, cosmetics, fragrances and confectionary are sold on scheduled flights to and from the following destinations: Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Brussels, Budapest, Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf, Ekaterinburg, Frankfurt, Geneva, Hamburg, Ljubljana, London, Madrid, Manchester, Malaga, Milan, Moscow, Munich, Nice, Paris, Prague, Rome, Venice, Vienna and Zurich.

• SHOP WITH POINTS Pamper yourself with Finnair Plus points at www.finnairplusshop.com

FINNAIR INFO INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

This month´s inflight picks Movies

Movies, TV, music and games onboard SIT BACK, RELAX AND ENJOY your flight with your personal entertainment system. Use your handset or touchscreen to choose from 72 movies, 150 TV shows, 24 music channels, up to 200 CD albums and 15 games.

From films to news and sports, there’s always something for you to enjoy, including programs from Hollywood, Asia and around the globe.

Available language tracks include English, Japanese, Korean, Thai, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Swedish and Finnish, depending on the program, as well as Finnish and Chinese subtitles.

We also offer family films and cartoons on all international and leisure flights.

Selection may vary by aircraft type.

You can also create a music playlist from up to 200 CDs (on select aircraft).

Most entertainment systems also include a satellite phone for texting and emails, and a power outlet so you can use your own laptop computer or personal entertainment device. The system also offers an Airshow moving map that displays the progress of your flight.

Personal entertainment systems are available on Airbus A330 and Airbus A340 aircraft.

Headphones are free of charge on intercontinental scheduled flights. On leisure flights (AY1000 series) there is an entertainment fee including headphone rental (on Boeing 757, €5.00 per person including return flight; on Airbus A330 and A340 aircraft, €8.00 per person per flight). Most Airbus A340 aircraft and all Airbus A330 aircraft are equipped with an electricity socket, telephone and the option to send SMS & email messages via the Inflight Entertainment System (not available for inbound SMS to the US or Canada). Messages cost $2.00 each. Calls cost $7.00/first minute and $3.50/ every 30 secs thereafter.

Entertainment/communication systems may vary by aircraft.

Begin Again Greta is an aspiring song writer who finds her world takes a turn for the better when a disgraced record-label exec stumbles upon her performing on an East Village stage. (Chinese subtitles, rating R)

Boyhood A ground-breaking story about growing up, as seen through the eyes of a child who literally grows up on screen. The film charts the rocky terrain of childhood, giving snapshots of adolescence. (Chinese subtitles, rating R)

More Latest Movies

Personal entertainment system

Guardians of the Galaxy A band of misfits become the object of a bounty hunt after stealing an orb coveted by Ronan, a powerful villain. (Chinese Subtitles, rating PG-13) The Other Woman After discovering her boyfriend is married, Carly soon meets the wife he’s been cheating on. And when yet another affair is discovered, all three women team up to plot mutual revenge. (Finnish Subtitles, Rating R)

NEW IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM Finnair has introduced a new easy-touse in-flight entertainment system for the wide body fleet. Aircraft will have the new system gradually during the Autumn 2014.

TV-series Two And A Half Men Grab a Feather and Get..in Line. Walden and Alan visit Kate’s fashion show in New York so Walden can reveal the truth about his identity.

What’s revealed, however, is a Broadway-style song and dance performance.

Two Broke Girls/ Strokes of Goodwill RMax introduces Caroline to the art of thrift store shopping, which takes a dangerous turn when a battle erupts over a T-shirt.

Entertainment content is easy to discover and access by only one click.

Radio

All the different type of entertainment (movies, music and games) can be found from the top row navigation icons.

A Taste of India Explore the music of India and discover great artists including Maahi Ve, Gulcharrey, Kamli, Sunny Sunny and more. Powered by Nokia MixRadio. Enjoy more music at music.nokia.com.

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FINNAIR INFO BEFORE AND AFTER THE FLIGHT HELSINKI AIRPORT

TRANSFER SERVICE

34

33

32

32a

31x 31

31a-e 30

HOW TO TRANSFER • Check your gate and departure time on the airport monitors.

35

• If your baggage has not been checked through to your final destination, collect it from the baggage claim area and go to check-in and security control.

SHOP

Security control

LONG-HAUL AREA NON-SCHENGEN

• If you don’t have a boarding pass for your connecting flight, please contact the transfer service desk.

• Most passengers transferring from nonEU countries to EU countries have to go through security and passport control.

Please note that liquids are restricted in carry-on baggage.

SHOP

FINNAIR LOUNGE FINNAIR PREMIUM LOUNGE 37

FINNAIR TRANSFER SERVICE

desks in Helsinki Airport T2 terminal are ready to help you with any inquiries related to your connection flights.

2ND FLOOR

37a-d

GROUND FLOOR

AUTOMATED BORDER CHECKS are available to passengers with biometric EU, EEA or Swiss passports.

Place your passport on the reader with the photo page down, then pass through the first gate, turn towards the monitor, and wait for the second gate to open.

NON-SMOKING Smoking at Helsinki Airport is prohibited outside of designated smoking rooms.

SHOPPING Receive special offers for airport services when you show your Finnair Plus card. You will recognise our partners by the Finnair Plus symbol.

Helsinki Airport features more than 30 shops and boutiques and various restaurants and cafés.

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Borde contro

36

Border control

SHOP

SHOP

2ND FLOOR

38

CHILDREN Children’s playrooms offer videos, microwave ovens and baby care facilities.

SHOP

Transfer Service 3

• All Finnair and Flybe departures are located in the same terminal.

WIRELESS INTERNET is available free of charge. An eService Bar is located across from gate 21.

Border control

LOST AND FOUND INQUIRIES Lentäjäntie 1 (next to terminal T2, street level) Open Mon-Fri 09:00-17:00 and Sat 09:00-15:00 Tel 0600 41006 (1,97€/min +local network charge) WWW.LOYTOTAVARA.NET

SHOP

WALKING TIME GATE 24-30: 7 MIN

T2 29

28

Restaurant & Deli Fly Inn

27

26

SHOP SCHENGEN AREA

24

25 Transfer Service 2

23

GATE AREA

Security check

er ol

CHECK-IN 240–270

CHECK-IN 201–232 SHOP

SHOP

FINNAIR LOUNGE

Security check

3RD FLOOR

22

Finnair Service Desk

GROCERY

21

SH

OP

20

1ST FLOOR

SHOP 19

Tourist info

18

Pharmacy

17 16

Transfer Service 1

15

CHECK-IN 101–114

14

Security check

Baggage storage

T1

GROUND FLOOR

13

GATE AREA 12

2ND FLOOR

11

SHOP BUS CONNECTIONS The Finnair City Bus to the Helsinki railway station leaves from Terminal 2 every 20 minutes, stopping also at Terminal 1. Travel time is about 30 minutes. Price: €6,30

1ST FLOOR

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INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS FROM HELSINKI

Great Circle Estimated Distances Flight km Times

AGADIR 4193 05:35 ALGHERO 2473 03:35

AMSTERDAM 1525 02:35 ALANYA/GAZIPASA 2722 03:45 ARRECIFE 4518 05:55 ATHENS 2490 03:40 BANGKOK 7912 09:45 BARCELONA 2632 03:55 BEIJING 6325 07:55 BERGEN 1112 03:30 BERLIN 1123 02:00 BIARRITZ 2581 03:45 BILLUND 1060 01:50 BODRUM 2572 03:55 BRUSSELS 1651 02:40 BUDAPEST 1481 02:20 BURGAS 1982 03:00 CATANIA 2636 03:45 CHANIA 2756 03:50 CHONGQING 6736 08:40 COPENHAGEN 895 01:40 DALAMAN 2639 03:40 DELHI 5229 06:50 DUBAI 4537 05:55 DUBLIN 2030 03:10 DUBROVNIK 2027 03:00 DÜSSELDORF 1512 02:25 EKATERINBURG 2098 03:05 FARO 3480 04:45 FRANKFURT 1543 02:35 FUERTEVENTURA 4578 06:05 FUNCHAL 4310 05:45 GENEVA 1994 03:00 GOA via Sharjah 6739 10:15 GOTHENBURG 785 01:25 HAMBURG 1172 02:00 HÔ CHI MINH CITY (Saigon) 8510 10:50 HONG KONG 7821 09:35 INNSBRUCK 1701 02:35 IRÁKLION 2777 03:55 KAZAN 1521 02:30 KAVALA 2159 03:15 KERKYRA 2331 03:25 KIEV 1171 01:55 KOS 2620 03:45 KRABI 8350 10:20 KRAKOW 1186 02:00 LANGKAWI 8560 10:25 LAS PALMAS 4700 06:10 LISBON 3369 04:50 LJUBLJANA 1713 02:40 LONDON 1863 03:10 MADRID 2950 04:25 MALAGA 3357 04:35 MALTA 2822 04:15 MANCHESTER 1817 03:00 MIAMI 8342 11:10 MILAN 1953 03:05 MINSK 740 01:25 MOSCOW 876 01:40 MUNICH 1577 02:30 NAGOYA 7780 09:40 NAPLES 2283 03:25 NEW YORK 6626 08:45 NICE 2202 03:25 NIZHNIY NOVGOROD 1189 02:10 NORRKÖPING 530 01:30 OSAKA 7751 09:30 OSLO 766 01:30 PALMA DE MALLORCA 2777 04:00 PAPHOS 2898 04:00 PARIS 1900 03:05

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Great Circle Estimated Distances Flight km Times PHUKET PISA PONTA DELGADA PRAGUE PREVEZA PUERTO PLATA RHODES RIGA RIMINI ROME SAMARA SANTORINI SEOUL SHANGHAI SINGAPORE SKIATHOS SPLIT ST. PETERSBURG STOCKHOLM TALLINN TARTU TEL AVIV TENERIFE NORTE TENERIFE SUR TOKYO TORONTO TROMSØ VARADERO VARNA VENICE VERONA VIENNA VILNIUS WARSAW XIAN ZAKYNTHOS ZÜRICH

8312 10:05

2093 03:20 4316 05:50 1322 02:10 2397 03:25 8417 11:15 2668 03:45 382 00:55 1993 03:00 2235 03:25 1698 02:35 2660 03:40 7050 08:40 7410 09:05 9272 11:30 2353 03:30 1956 02:55 301 01:00 400 01:00 101 00:30 245 00:50 3230 04:25 4691 06:10 4745 06:10 7849 09:45 6619 08:50 1081 02:00 8665 11:40 1911 02:55 1847 02:55 1903 02:55 1462 02:30 633 01:15 940 01:40 6421 07:50 2526 03:55 1781 02:45

SCHEDULED DESTINATIONS LEISURE DESTINATIONS PARTNER-OPERATED CODE-SHARE OR MARKETING DESTINATIONS SEASONAL ROUTE EW SCHEDULED N SEASONAL ROUTE NEW SCHEDULED DESTINATION IN 2014

Atl Oc antic ean

New

quay

DOMESTIC FLIGHTS FROM HELSINKI IVALO JOENSUU JYVÄSKYLÄ KAJAANI MARIEHAMN KEMI/TORNIO KITTILÄ KOKKOLA/PIETARSAARI KUOPIO KUUSAMO OULU PORI ROVANIEMI TAMPERE TURKU VAASA

931 01:35 360 01:00 235 00:45

464 01:00 282 00:55 609 01:30 823 01:25 391 01:05 335 01:00 667 01:15 514 01:05 214 00:40 697 01:20 143 00:35 150 00:35 348 00:55

Bay of B isca ya

Arct ic

Ocea n

Nor weg ian S ea

Nort

h Sea

Rostov-on-Don

Medit erranea n Sea NOVEMBER 2014

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Arctic Ocean FINNAIR-INFO WORLD MAP

Finnair Plus members earn Plus points from travelling on any scheduled flight with a oneworld airline.

Atlantic Ocean

Agadir

Pacific Ocean

Ocea n Atlantic Ocean

oneworld: almost 1000 destinations.

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Arctic Ocean

Nizhniy Novgorod

Agadir

Taiwan

Pacific Ocean

Indian Ocean

NOVEMBER 2014

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FINNAIR INFO CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY

Society and the environment Finnair wants to be the number one choice for quality- and environmentally-conscious travellers.

The airline collaborates with many environmental and humanitarian organisations, and invites its frequent flyers to participate in these efforts by donating Finnair Plus points.

Here are a few other examples of Finnair’s societal involvement in a changing world:

• From 1999 to 2009, Finnair cut its carbon dioxide emissions per seat by 22 per cent.

By 2017, it intends to reduce this number by another 24 per cent; total reductions per seat from 1999 to 2017 will equal as much as 41 per cent.

Finnair supports the International Air Transport Association’s (IATA) goal of zeroemissions air travel by 2050, as well as a global emissions trading scheme.

• Finnair flies one of the youngest fleets in the business.

The average aircraft age is 9.9 years. Operating with new aircraft cuts back on fuel consumption and emissions by 20 to 30 per cent.

The airline also flies the shortest routes between Europe and Asia via Helsinki, reducing fuel consumption. Passengers and cargo are carried on the same flights.

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• HOTT (House of Travel and Transportation), which houses Finnair’s headquarters near Helsinki, has received the esteemed LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Platinum international environmental certification.

The system ensures that a construction project meets the strictest requirements for environmental efficiency.

HOTT is owned by pension insurance company Ilmarinen, and Finnair is the primary tenant.

• Finnair employees are offered continuous training and development opportunities.

The company also conducts an annual employee wellbeing survey, participates in campaigns promoting equal treatment at the workplace, and places a strong focus on occupational safety.

NOVEMBER 2014

TRAVEL FOR A BETTER WORLD THIS AUTUMN HAS marked notable leaps forward for Finnair in the realm of corporate and environmental responsibility. On September 23rd, in conjunction with the United Nations’ Climate Summit, the airline operated a flight from Helsinki to New York using a biofuel that was made up in part of used cooking oil. Finnair flew its first biofuel flight in 2011, and is currently investigating the possibility of opening a biofuel hub at Helsinki Airport in collaboration with several partners.

Switching to a more sustainable fuel can reduce an airline’s carbon dioxide emissions by at least 50 per cent.

“Our aim is to help further the development of the biofuel supply chain. Biofuel costs should also be lowered so that these cleaner fuels can be put into wider use in aviation,” says Kati Ihamäki, Finnair’s vice president of sustainable development.

Next month Finnair is also taking a new step in its collaboration with UNICEF, which spans two decades. Travellers now have the opportunity to make an online donation to support the education of children in 11 Asian countries while booking flights at Finnair.com. Donations to UNICEF’s Schools for Asia programme can be made in sums of one, five or ten euros. Since 1994 Finnair travellers have donated more than 1.2 million euros to UNICEF. The new initiative is enabled by Amadeus, an IT solutions provider for the travel industry.

Last month Finnair was named the best airline in Europe at the annual TTG Travel Awards, for the second year in a row.

FINNAIR INFO ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY

DID YOU KNOW? Finnair is a member of the Nordic Initiative for Sustainable Aviation (NISA), a collaboration between airlines, airport operators and ministries that works to accelerate the development of biofuels in the aviation industry.

HOW YOU CAN HELP At pointshop.finnair.com, members of Finnair’s frequent flyer programme can donate points to the following organisations: ☛ The Finnish Association for Nature Conservation

• Finnair prioritises recycling: assess and improve an airline’s for example, the airline has environmental management. donated cabin crew uniforms, Strongly believing that, as with blankets and other textiles to safety, the whole sector would Uusix and GlobeHope, compabenefit from a more systematic nies that turn used materials approach to environmental into design items. management, Finnair is part of • Finnair Group collaborates a pilot group of IATA member with environmental manageairlines participating in the ment company Ekokem on programme. waste management, including • Finnair is a member of United waste sorting, recycling and Nations Global Compact, a reuse. Materials such as cardcorporate responsibility initiaboard, paper, plastic and metal tive that comprises more than are recycled at Finnair, while 8,000 businesses. Participating hazardous waste is properly companies agree to make huprocessed. Material not suitman rights, fair labour standable for reuse is transported ards, environmental responsito Ekokem’s facilities for bility and anti-corruption core energy production. parts of their operations.

• The recycling process begins • In 2011 Finnair signed the United onboard, where cabin attendNations Women’s Empowerants sort the waste generated ment Principles that encourage during the flight. companies to promote gender • In 2013 Finnair was certified equality and women’s empoweras a Stage 1 operator in IATA’s ment. The principles are the reEnvironmental Assessment sult of a collaboration between Program (IEnvA), a new envithe United Nations Development ronmental management sysFund for Women and the United tem designed to independently Nations Global Compact.

☛ The Association of Friends of the University Children’s Hospitals ☛ The Cancer Society of Finland ☛ The Finnish Red Cross ☛ UNICEF ☛ The Baltic Sea Action Group ☛ Hope

FIND OUT MORE Finnair has published an annual overview of its sustainability efforts since 1997. The 2013 Annual Report – Finnair’s first to integrate sustainability indicators with financial reporting – measures and accounts for Finnair’s financial, economic, social and environmental performance and explains its impact on business results.

www.finnairgroup.com/ annualreport2013 BLOGS.FINNAIR.COM

NOVEMBER 2014

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FINNAIR INFO FLEET

AIRBUS A350-900 (NEW IN 2015) Number 11 in order Seating capacity 297 Length 66.8 m Wingspan 64.75 m Cruising speed 903 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 13,000 m AIRBUS A340-300 Number 7 Seating capacity 270/269/261 Length 63.6 m Wingspan 60.3 m Cruising speed 870 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,500 m AIRBUS A330-300 Number 8 Seating capacity 297/271/263 Length 63.6 m Wingspan 60.3 m Cruising speed 870 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,600 m AIRBUS A321 (ER) Number 11 Seating capacity 136–209 Length 44.5 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A320 Number 10 Seating capacity 110–165 Length 37.6 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m AIRBUS A319 Number 9 Seating capacity 105–138 Length 33.8 m Wingspan 34.1 m Cruising speed 840 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 11,900 m EMBRAER 190/170 Operated by Flybe Number 12/2 Seating capacity 100/76 Length 36.2/29.9 m Wingspan 28.7/26 m Cruising speed 850 km/h Maximum cruising altitude 12,300 m

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FINNAIR PLUS PARTNER BENEFITS FOR FREQUENT FLYERS

Finnair Plus Partner Benefits this month: COLLECT POINTS DAILY You can earn Finnair Plus award points on your everyday purchases: just apply for the Finnair Plus Diners Club or MasterCard credit card. Both credit cards also double as your Finnair Plus membership card − all of your benefits are available on this one card. The Finnair Plus Diners Club and MasterCard are available for Finnair Plus members in Finland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark.

COUNTLESS BENEFITS FOR MEMBERS!

ISTOCK

Find out more and apply at www.finnair.com/plus

POINTS WITH JAPAN FLIGHTS Finnair Plus Platinum, Gold and Silver members can now earn extra Finnair Plus award points for flights between Europe and Japan when flying with Finnair, British Airways or Japan Airlines until November 30, 2014.

EUROPCAR Use Finnair Plus points online to pay for a car rental with Europcar. You can use points only or any combination of money and points for your rental.

ACCOR HOTELS You can use your Finnair Plus points by converting them into Le Club Accorhotels points to pay for your stay in one of the 2,700 Accor participating hotels worldwide.

finnair.com/GB/GB/ japan-tier-bonus

drivemymiles.com/ finnairplus/

finnair.com/pluspartners

Airlines Travel Credit Card Insurance Restaurants Shopping Wellness Golf Entertainment Charity Leisure time

MORE THAN 300 PARTNERS!

Not yet a member?

Find out how to join on the next page ➝

More Finnair Plus offers: finnair.com/plus NOVEMBER 2014 BLUE WINGS 95

FINNAIR PLUS FREQUENT FLYER BENEFITS

Our Frequent Flyer Program

Join now and receive points for this flight!

GET THESE BENEFITS • A head start on special flight sales • Exclusive members’ prices on offers • Earn and use points on Finnair, oneworld and partner airline flights • Earn and use points on numerous worldwide partner services EARN POINTS from both Finnair scheduled and leisure flights. Points can be used to purchase award flights, pay for additional baggage and upgrade Finnair flights from Economy to Business Class. Points can also be earned and used for oneworld scheduled flights.

AS A FINNAIR PLUS MEMBER YOU EARN points when purchasing products and services from any one of our Finnair Plus partners.

The extensive partner network makes it possible for you to earn and use points even when you are not travelling. Products and services range from hotels, restaurants and car rentals to products purchased in the Finnair PlusShop, where you can place orders online.

JOIN FINNAIR PLUS for free at finnair.com/plus or by filling out an application found as an insert in this magazine.

Join using this QR code and get 500 extra points from your next Finnair flight. ➝

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS 1. I've lost my Finnair Plus card – what should I do?

You can order a new Finnair Plus card by logging in to your Finnair Plus account.

Before ordering, please make sure that your address details are up to date in your profile.

You’ll receive your replacement card by post in approximately three weeks. In the meantime, you can continue to use your membership number – your number will stay the same in the new card.

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DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION? SEND IT TO US: PLUS.NEWS@FINNAIR.FI

2. What is the difference between tier points and award points?

You earn award points when you take scheduled flights operated by Finnair and the other oneworld airlines, or use services from Finnair Plus partners.

You earn tier points when you take Finnair flights or scheduled international flights operated by oneworld airlines.

Collecting tier points allows you to move up through the Finnair Plus membership tiers to even more varied and valuable benefits.

FINNAIR PLUS FREQUENT FLYER BENEFITS

Finnair Plus Tier benefits There are four Finnair Plus tiers: Basic, Silver, Gold and Platinum.

Move to higher tiers by collecting tier points on Finnair or oneworld flights.

BASIC BENEFITS

SILVER BENEFITS RUBY

• C lassic and Any Seat flight awards • T ext message check-in for Finnair flights •P ayment for excess baggage charges with points •W aiting list priority based on tier •P lusShop and partner service purchases with points •D iscounts and points for partner services •P oints for credit card purchases

• All Basic level benefits • 10% points bonus on Finnair flights • Business Class check-in with Finnair • Priority Lane* security checks • One extra piece of baggage free of charge • Finnair lounge access when flying with Finnair • 10% discount on normally priced tax – free purchases made on Finnair flights outside of the EU.

GOLD SAPPHIRE

Ch aged 2ildren join th −17 can e Plus JuFinnair progranior m!

PLATINUM EMERALD

• All Basic and Silver level benefits

• A ll Basic, Silver and Gold level benefits

• 1 5% points bonus on Finnair flights • C onfirmed seat 48 hours before Finnair flights (European or intercontinental for Business Class, intercontinental for Economy Class)

• 2 5% points bonus on Finnair flights

MOVE TO HIGHER TIERS 40,000 tier points or 24 scheduled flights*

•N o expiration of points during tracking period • Oneworld First Class check-in and lounge access

•D • Priority Lane* security iscounted travel checks upgrades for family members • T ravel class upgrades for Finnair flights • Special baggage free of charge on Finnair flights • Oneworld Business Class and Frequent Flyer lounge access + 1 guest

90,000 tier points or 54 scheduled flights*

150,000 tier points or 92 scheduled flights* * Finnair and other oneworld scheduled flights

* For example: Helsinki, Stockholm-Arlanda

More Finnair Plus information: finnair.com/plus

Did you know?

THE ECONOMY COMFORT SEATS make travelling even more comfortable than usual. The new seats form the five first rows in the Economy Class on Finnair long-haul flights.

The Economy Comfort package includes extra space for your feet, headphones, personal amenity kit, and the option to board and depart the aircraft amongst the first passengers. The seats are available on all Finnair long-haul flights from December 15. Economy Comfort upgrade price per one way starts from 45 euros. Finnair Plus Platinum and Gold members can book the seats free of charge. Book your seat at FINNAIR.COM

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FINNAIR PLUS PLUSSHOP

Finnair PlusShop offers BUY A PIECE OF LAPLAND'S WILDERNESS

AND A VIRTUAL TRAVEL EXPERIENCE Geocollectors is a new virtual landowner’s community which allows you to buy a square-metre plot of land. The first collection site is in Finnish Lapland, and new areas are on the way.

Plot owners receive an Owner’s Collection Package. It contains an owner’s certificate, a piece of marble stone from Lapland, as well as a code that allows you to monitor your own plot and the whole area on the Geocollectors website.

Join like-minded explorers, together we can preserve large land areas and ensure they remain in their natural state. At the same time we’ll enjoy being part of a community of ownership and experience a new form of virtual tourism.

GEOCOLLECTORS PROPRIETORS’ PACKAGE, FINNISH LAPLAND

€79 Member offer €49 + 1,000 points

PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

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FINNAIR PLUS PLUSSHOP

Finnair PlusShop offers

The online Finnair PlusShop stocks more than 3,000 items and delivers around the world. Pay with Finnair Plus points, money or a combination of both.

Items are shipped to your home or to your nearest post office.

ALL HACKMAN ROTISSER POTS & PANS –20%

VIINISTÄ VIINIIN 2014 BOOK FOR FREE WITH ANY RIEDEL GLASS SET

ARABIA MOOMIN MUG & BOWL, SKIING WITH MR BRISK

PEUGEOT PARIS SALT AND PEPPER MILL SET, 30 CM

€48,20 Member offer €39 + 1,000 points

€103,80 Member offer €59 + 1,000 points

VILLEROY & BOCH NEW WAVE COFFEE SET, 12 PC

€243,20, white Member offer €149 + 1,000 points

PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE.

MARIMEKKO UNIKKO SEASONAL COLOR LILAC/ BROWN PRODUCTS WITH SPECIAL PRICES

Shop online: www.finnairplusshop.com NOVEMBER 2014 BLUE WINGS 99