opinion
What’s new this month:
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hang on them. “It’s about using t’s November 25, press day on this our proud British heritage to boost edition of FFD and the day George our economy and bring greater Osborne is delivering his Autumn investment, jobs and tourism to local Statement. Between checking proofs communities”. and shoveling down a sarnie, I’m There’s nothing wrong with reading real-time reports of the wanting to grow businesses and Chancellor’s speech. And I’m thinking, create jobs, but that’s really not what since he’s managed to find enough the EU PFN scheme was meant to be cash under the mattress to reverse about. “Using” our heritage...? £4bn of tax credit cuts maybe he PFNs are supposed to maintain could rustle up some to give our small the diversity of Europe’s food culture food producers a decent leg-up? and protect the names of farm As you’ll read in this issue, both products, traditionally tied to their the Welsh Government (p5) and locality. They were never primarily Scottish Government (p11) – or its about exploiting those products to agency in the Highlands & Islands, at maximise growth. least – are making a priority of helping The PFN system is, of course, small food firms, recognising their tailored to the kind contribution to of protectionism maintaining jobs I’ve always been in which our Euro in far-flung parts. pals like to indulge. While seeking out dubious about PFNs. Everything about them But one reason the potential highFrench, Italians and growth businesses, bears the dead hand Spanish have so both devolved of bureaucracy. many more PFNs governments seem is that they have a lot more genuine, to see how small-but-steady firms can traditional regional specialities that help keep rural areas alive. represent part of their culture. It’s a lot less clear to me how I’ve always been very dubious well the Westminster government about PFNs. Everything about them, understands our sector. This month from the logos to the language that (p4) we report on Defra’s drive to see describes them, bears the dead hand the number of UK Protected Food of bureaucracy. But the alarm bells Names rise from the current 64 to really rang for me when products nearer the French and like ‘Orkney Scottish Island Cheddar’ Italian tallies of well started getting legal protection – a over 200. Sounds product that differs from other laudable, but look traditional cheddars due to a “unique at the language dry stir technique.... developed food secretary Liz in 1984”. Doesn’t quite have the Truss uses about romance of Roquefort, does it? PFNs and the British consumers don’t recognise promotions PFNs now, and using the scheme to Defra promote foods with no true heritage hopes is no way to give the scheme more to credibility – or to help the wider speciality food community. .
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MICK WHITWORTH Editor
EDITORIAL
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Editor: Mick Whitworth Deputy editor: Michael Lane Reporter: Arabella Mileham Art director: Mark Windsor Editorial production: Richard Charnley Contributors: Clare Hargreaves, Patrick McGuigan, Lynda Searby
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Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB United Kingdom Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £45pa inclusive of post and packing. Printed by: Blackmore, Dorset, UK © Great Taste Publications Ltd and The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2015. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations.
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Editor’s choice
Selected by MICHAEL LANE Deputy editor
Herpac Gourmet Atún al Pedro Ximenez (Brindisa) www.brindisa.com
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Over the last few months, this slot has been filled with off-the-wall products and eye-catching packaging designs, so it’s about time we had a more ‘traditional’ deli product. On the face of it, that’s exactly what this Spanish jarred yellowfin tuna is. Imported by Brindisa, the 250g jar has the demure-yet-luxury look that you would associate with a quality Continental item and the price tag to match (RRP £8.75). But, at that price, you’d expect a bit more than some good tuna in oil. Devised by producer Herpac, the combination of sherry (albeit a Pedro Ximenez wine), pine nuts, raisins and fish works perfectly despite sounding unpromising. The sweetness enhances the dense, meaty fish rather than masking its flavour and there is no trace of the alcohol burn you would expect. It’s actually very moreish. While it’s not for everyone, this proves that ‘traditional’ doesn’t have to mean ‘boring’.
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Vol.16 Issue 10 · November-December 2015
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