FFD March 2024

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Loving spoonfuls

Discover the latest jars with our round-up of jams & preserves

ALSO INSIDE

The Fleetville Larder

How post-Brexit import rules are taking their toll Snacking NPD

March 2024 Volume 25 Issue 2 g .co.uk
MODENA Little Doone
Baked Cod Fillets with Creamed Carrots and Tenderstem® Broccoli Recipe card enclosed for you to keep and share www.LittleDoone.co.uk Sweet, mellow white balsamic dressing – uniquely Little Doone
GOLD OF
My mother-in-law is one of the biggest champions of consumer injustice that I know. If she feels she’s due compensation, nothing will hold her back.

9

The Willow Tree in Norfolk, and how to define a farm shop

17 CHEESEWIRE

Raw cheese hit by postBrexit import rules, Arla Foods looks to sell Tuxford & Tebbutt

23

Camarthenshire’s

Did you know there is a sub-genre of restaurants and diners in America where the sta are purposely rude to customers. It’s part of a schtick that also includes innuendo-laden menus and artery clogging dishes.

There are already some copycats in the UK but I’m not sure the concept will work. Not because it is too crass for our superior British sense of humour, but because I don’t think the jokes will land. Rather than revelling in the gimmickry, the downtrodden British public might just think it was par for the course. Nobody seems to bat an eyelid at terrible service these days, do they?

I certainly don’t. In fact, I actively expect it. There was a time when an incident at a counter or in a restaurant would form the cornerstone of one of my leaders every six months. Now it’s every month. To be honest, I’m beginning to bore myself.

And, just in case, you think I’m imagining this plague of mediocre

service or being overly negative about customer experiences in our country – I can con dently say, I’m not the only one who thinks this.

My mother-in-law is one of the biggest champions of consumer injustice that I know. If she feels she’s due compensation, nothing will hold her back. Although she has been preoccupied recently with battling a giant supermarket for a refund on a pack of sausages that didn’t have a date printed on it, she did nd time to agree with me on this topic. It is now actually more surprising when you get good customer service.

Okay. Anecdote alert. A recent visit, with my kids in tow, to a London pizza chain was utterly miserable because the manager nearly refused our booking on arrival due to the presence of a buggy. He also told us twice before we’d even sat down that the table had to be turned over within 90 minutes. Then, his sta spent our whole hour in the restaurant looking at our baby

EDITOR’S

Spice Blend

Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox, deputy editor editorial@gff.co.uk

Accounts

Editor: Michael Lane

Deputy editor: Tanwen Dawn-Hiscox

Art director:

Windsor Contributors: Nick Baines, Mary Doggett, Patrick McGuigan, Greg Pitcher, Lynda Searby,

Sales

Managing

Special

Operations

Marketing

Jenna

Data

Engagement

Operations

Operations

Operations

Customer

Chairman

like she was an atomic bomb.

Before you ask, it was a 6pm booking, there was plenty of space for our party and my other kids ate adult portions. Frankly, I would rather have visited Crazy Craig’s Coronary Café. And despite all this, I still paid the discretionary-butautomatically-added service charge. How British of me!

The thing is, people like me are part of the problem. Too many of us absorb these incidents at the time, unwilling to challenge them – whereas a certain relative of mine might.

If the way consumers are treated is going to change in this country, then proprietors need to self-regulate. Your customers aren’t going to do it for you.

Even if you do think you’re up to snu (and I know that the majority of you reading this are), make sure you check again. You really don’t want my mother-in-law on your case.

Looking back through my previous editor’s choice selections, I notice a pattern in what I favour in a product, and that is versatility. Michelin-listed Hoppers restaurant’s set of spice blends tick that box, as well as being little flavour bombs.

The Toasted Curry Powder is my favourite. Spice rub? Check. Weeknight curry? Obviously. Porridge? Afraid so. More on p.48.

Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 3 WELCOME
CHOICE
Mark
opportunities@gff.co.uk
director: Sally Coley
sales account managers: Becky Haskett, Jenny Homeshaw
Senior
Bundle Hoppers
NEWS Cottage Delight acquires Fosters
Swerving the January slump
CONTENTS 4
Foods,
VIEWPOINTS
CHARCUTERIE
Moch
27 DRINKS
Whiskey comes into its own 32 CATEGORY FOCUS
and savoury snacks, jams and preserves 35 SHOW PREVIEW IFE at the ExCel 43 FOODSERVICE Beetroot and goats’ cheese tarte fine 45 MEET THE PRODUCER Two Fields Zakros 47 PRODUCTS & MERCHANDISING 51 SHOW PREVIEW Natural & Organic Products Expo
DELI OF THE MONTH The Fleetville Larder 59 ADVICE
Coch
Irish
Sweet
52
assistant: Julie Coates Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Finance director: Ashley Warden
support@gff.co.uk
director:
John Farrand
projects director:
Tortie Farrand
& marketing director:
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& PR officer:
Morice
strategy & insight manager: Lindsay Farrar
& sales support assistant: Nick
Rose
manager: Claire Powell
coordinators: Chris Farrand, Sepi Rowshanaei
& events coordinator
Zara Williams
:
services assistant: Chloë Warren-Wood
: Bob Farrand Published by The Guild of Fine Food Ltd Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £50 p.a. inc P&P. © The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2024. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. Printed by Blackmore, Dorset gff.co.uk +44 (0)1747 825200 Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB United Kingdom

New import rules in ict ‘cost, delays and uncertainty’ on small retailers

Post-Brexit food import rules that came into force at the start of this year are “stupid” and a “disaster”, independent retailers have warned.

Small shops said bringing meat, fruit and vegetables in from mainland Europe had become slower, costlier and more di cult since new documentation was required.

Under the government’s Border Target Operating Model (BTOM), export health and phytosanitary certi cates have been mandated for “mediumrisk” fresh food brought in from EU countries since 31 January (see box).

Ministers say the new system will save traders millions of pounds and improve control of imports but retailers took a di erent view.

David Josephs, chief executive at Panzer’s Delicatessen in London,

said: “We are hearing from small suppliers that the new regulations make them more likely to pull out of the UK market.

“It is the cost, the delays, the uncertainty. The paperwork is ridiculous. For a small producer with volume clients in the EU and a couple of small retailers in London it isn’t economical to continue. This will reduce our range.”

He added: “A h of our shipments get delayed by a day; some fruit and veg is four or ve days late and straight in the dustbin. No one could have dreamed of a more stupid situation.”

Panzer’s in now “actively looking” at forming its own company in the EU to ship all its orders but Josephs said there were “a lot of costs and complications involved”.

Andreas Georghiou, long-time owner of highend grocer Andreas of Chelsea Green described the rule changes as “a disaster”.

Explained: The Border Target Operating Model

Under the new rules, animals, germinal products, produce of animal origin, and animal by-products are categorised as high risk, medium risk, or low risk.

From 31st January 2024 the model has meant:

• The introduction of simplified export health certificates and phytosanitary certificates for medium-risk animal products and phytosanitary goods imported from the EU

• The beginning of documentary

“I have stu stuck in Naples, orders held up in the UK,” he said. “There is more of everything to do now. You need a vet to come to check the meat.

“It takes a day longer to get fruit and veg in, just for the paperwork, which a ects produce such as high-quality berries. You also have less time to sell it.”

One London retailer who spoke anonymously added: “The reality is that the people most able to

deal with this are those with established export routes, who are supplying other markets. Generally these are larger, less interesting companies who can manage the costs through volume.

“You are likely to see a gradual shi in produce: less diversity, less of a rich o ering. Smaller artisan producers that make amazing things won’t have the volume or internal systems to continue supplying London.”

Dimbleby’s VC fund to subsidise sustainable food businesses

IN BRIEF

One of the last familyowned abattoirs in the Yorkshire Dales is set to close after 23 years. McIntyre Meats owners Martin and Lindsey McIntyre said the economic environment had a significant impact on their financial situation.

Sainsbury’s has unveiled a three year plan which will see it increase the number of stores stocking its full food range, a more personalised version of its Nectar loyalty scheme, and around 75 new local stores.

The UK Government is increasing the threshold for immigrants to qualify for a Skilled Worker Visa from £26,200 to £38,700 – a jump of 47.7%, prompting fears that it will cut off a lifeline of staff for the food sector.

checks on medium risk goods from the EU (but no new routine controls at the border)

• The removal of pre-notification requirements for lowrisk plant and plant products from the EU

• The introduction of pre-notification requirements for EU Sanitary and Phytosanitary goods that enter Great Britain via West Coast ports

• The beginning of Certification Logistics Pilots and Accredited Trusted Trader Pilots

Leon co-founder and former government food strategy tsar Henry Dimbleby has set up an investment firm for the sector targeting innovation and healthy outcomes.

Bramble Partners is also led by former Just Eat acquisitions chief Omar Habbal and one-time head of client strategy at employer branding firm Wiser Anya Claxton.

The new entity said on its LinkedIn page that it was “dedicated to supporting innovative food businesses and capturing a share of the value they create”.

Habbal told FFD: “Bramble has three

missions that will drive everything we do: reduce the environmental damage caused by food production systems; improve the health-span of people through better food consumption; and promote food security.

“We want to invest in entrepreneurs and innovations that progress these issues and transition us to a sustainable food system.”

The investor is

looking for models that demonstrate sustainable food production is good for business, he added.

“For fine food retailers, this means Bramble is a friend. We are actively investing in the food system winners of tomorrow and, in doing so, we are promoting new products and services for retailers to stock and share in the value created.

“It seems as though fine food retailers are already conscious of changing customer habits and we welcome any support from the industry as we try to demonstrate why good food, produced well, can change the way we eat.”

CYBER CRIME 4 NEWS March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
Products entering the country have been attributed a classification, and certificates are now mandatory for medium-risk items (see box)

Foodservice and in-house o erings rescue retailers from January slump

A focus on providing meals to eat in and takeaway has helped many independent retailers through a cold, dark start to the year.

A number of ne food purveyors said the thrust of their business had been boosted by o ering breakfast, lunch and dinner options in store.

A er a bumper Christmas, January and February loomed ominously in the calendar, especially when it was declared that the UK economy had entered recession.

But canny indies have been adapting to the economic gloom, political uncertainty and grim weather by tempting customers in for meals.

Laura Roberts, owner of Laura’s Larder in Orpington in South East London, said: “We’ve been propped up by our kitchen. If we didn’t do lunch sales, the shop would have struggled signi cantly.

“People come in for sandwiches, toasties and salads. Plus they pick things up from the deli while they are there.”

Roberts has introduced wine tasting evenings to replicate the lunchtime trade.

“People are sat there for two hours, then when they get to the till they have a pile of stu they have been looking at or enjoyed in the pairing snack.”

Paul Castle, managing director at Flourish foodhall at Glenavon Farm, said the Somerset business had seen a major boost from customers looking for good dining experiences while they trimmed back elsewhere at the start of this year.

“We have had doubledigit growth on last January,” he said. “Butchery has been the strongest area, people are buying steaks and quality lines.

“You can pay £18 for a pizza on the high street.

Flurry of online businesses goes bust as public returns to shops

A desire for in-person experiences and financial pressure have led consumers away from their laptops and back to the high street, experts have said, as stark insolvency figures emerged.

Data collected by accountants Price Bailey showed a record number of virtual shops going bust last year, revealing that 615 online-only retailers became insolvent in 2023, an increase of more than 10% on the previous year. This also represented a three-fold increase in click-and-collapses since 2010.

Price Bailey said online-only retailers

were having to contend with a shift in consumer spending at the same time as cost inflation and increased competition.

Matt Howard, head of insolvency and recovery at the accountancy, said: “Pent-up demand for in-person experiences after the pandemic has brought footfall back into bricks and mortar retail.”

“Stubbornly high food price inflation has made consumers much more cost-conscious when buying groceries online. In many cases bargain-hungry shoppers are heading to the High Street where it is often easier to assess price promotions and discounts than online.”

Farm shops are keener on price and it gives us a competitive advantage. Plus a lunchtime bite to eat at an independent won’t be three courses and alcohol so you can eat out cheaper.

“Overall our customer numbers are up, average spend is up, and half term has been rammed.”

Frankie Dyer, owner of Barbakan Delicatessen, said the South Manchester outlet had put a big onus on

its own produce.

“We are focusing on really expanding our own o erings of what we make in our own bakery and kitchens, more ready-made takeaway options, large salad pots, breakfast pots and so on,” she said.

“We are also expanding avours and products in the bakery, anything we can do to set us apart from the Greggs, Gail’s and Prets of the world.

Waitrose has announced a £100m investment plan which will see it lower prices across 300 of its own brand products, claiming this will allow it to give customers value for money on “everyday favourites”. A third of the reduced items are in its Everyday Essentials range, with prices brought down by 14% on average. The move was announced a week after a study found the retailer is trailing behind M&S in food sales growth (at 3.6% in the 12 weeks leading up to Christmas, compared with 12.1% at M&S). It also follows the news that the retailer’s parent company, John Lewis and Partners, is considering cutting up to 11,000 staff jobs across the group in the next five year, as part of a plan to reduce costs and improve efficiency through technology.

WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT... … WHAT HAS IMPACTED BUSINESS SO FAR IN 2024

“In January no-one was drinking so wine sales were down – we even cancelled our monthly wine tasting. Valentine’s Day falling in the middle of half term meant we had a really bad day. With the recession, people are affected by headlines and buy that one thing less; it is a bit of a worry.”

“The weather has been mild, with no snow or ice, it’s almost been autumnal, which brings people out. It was a buoyant Christmas as people treated themselves and bought food rather than going out so we had less discount product to get rid of and got quicker into the new lines.”

“We’ve been battling a year-long fight with the council as construction work on new cycle lanes has reduced parking and congested roads. Footfall is down. We serve lots of food retail outlets with our wholesale bread and although things have been quiet this January, we are positive about the year to come.”

5 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
LAURA ROBERTS, LAURA’S LARDER PAUL CASTLE, FLOURISH AT GLENAVON FARM FRANKIE DYER, BARBAKAN Customers have relied on indies for a cheaper way of eating out

Cottage Delight promises seamless transition a er Fosters Food acquisition

Cottage Delight has bought Fosters Foods from its current owner, Moguntia Food Group, in a deal that includes Fosters’ own products and third-party brands.

Cottage Delight has expanded its site in Leek, Staffordshire, allowing for Fosters’ production to relocate there from Market Harborough.

Fosters Foods makes its own range of ambient products, as well as gifting and personalised ranges via seven third-party brands: Treat Co, Nature’s Store, Langdale’s, The Boulevard, Spinnaker, John Lusty and Home Recipe Foods.

Cottage Delight’s marketing director Sarah Williams told FFD that Fosters’ broad portfolio makes it ”a perfect fit with Cottage Delight”.

Consolidation will come in time to address

Brighton’s Hisbe con rms closure

Brighton’s ethical supermarket group Hisbe will remain closed forever after entering voluntary liquidation in early February.

The social entreprise’s stores on York Place, Brighton, and Portland Road, in Worthing, closed in January after 14 years of trading.

Hisbe, which stands for ‘How It Should Be’ built a reputation for sourcing sustainable products from local providers.

The owners said that they had “done everything in [their] power” to keep going, but that it was carrying too much debt from the last four years and trading through the pandemic.

overlapping lines, she added.

“There are several similar categories sold under the Fosters Brand and Cottage Delight brand. Providing all those products under two brands does not make business sense and would be confusing for the retailer, and distracting from other commercial opportunities that we can work together on.

“Any consolidation needs to be carefully considered and worked through – that will come

in time.”

“Our priority for now is to ensure our supply chain is up and running as quickly as possible, so all of our retail customers can receive their orders on time and in full. We will not achieve this overnight, but it is our primary focus, especially with the important summer months approaching.”

With a view to integrating Fosters’ products into its operations immediately, the new brochure for 2024 is set to launch this month

DOWN ON THE FARM

The Farm Shop opened on the Suffolk Rural College campus in Otley in late January with the view to encouraging students to embrace the “farm to fork” ethos. Plants are grown by the college’s horticultural team, gift cards drawn by art students and poppies made by welders. The shop hopes to expand to include seasonal fruit and vegetables grown on site. suffolk.ac.uk

and the Christmas range is in the pipeline.

Fosters’ five regional sales managers have joined the team, and will be selling both brands across the UK.

“So, as a business we have unbeatable sales coverage,” Williams added. “For the trade, that can only be a good thing.”

Retailers should expect little change in placing orders, she said.

“It is business as usual.”

“One of the real strengths of Fosters has been the way they nurtured relationships with their retail customers, and that has been central pillar to Cottage Delight for 50 years.”

“As well as our team on the road, we have our fantastic customer service team based in Leek who customers can contact via email or telephone.” cottagedelight.co.uk

IN BRIEF

The Labour Party has put forward proposals for sweeping reforms to the UK’s employment laws which could see it scrap zero-hour contracts and giving workers new rights – to enhanced sick pay and unfair dismissal claims.

According to the Office of National Statistics 402,482 shoplifiting offences were recorded in the 12 months to September 2023, the first time the number surpassed 400,000 since records started in 2002.

UK-based OMGTea has sold a majority stake to the world’s largest supplier of premium Japanese Matcha tea, Aiya, which it says will allow it to build a bigger presence on the market. OMGTea was founded by Katherine Swift in 2014.

The new restaurant owned and operated by Devon’s celebrated retailer Darts Farm was awarded two AA Rosettes last month, for achieving high quality food and culinary excellence. The Farm Table opened last summer, and recently received Food Magazine’s Reader Award for Best Newcomer, too. dartsfarm.co.uk

Cowdray Farm Shop has appointed ex-Waitrose branch manager Richard Main as the managing director of the store, café & lifestyle. Main worked for the John Lewis partnership for 16 years, most recently heading up Waitrose branches across

Sussex, Kent and Surrey. cowdray.co.uk/cowdrayfarm-shop

On the A34 from Birmingham to Stratfordupon-Avon is a new farm shop in Henley-in-Arden: Field to Fork opened at the end of 2023 and includes a grocery, bakery, butchery and a restaurant. fieldtofork.online

The redevelopment of the now-closed Beales department store in Kendal will include a farm shop. The third branch of A Day’s Walk Farm Shop will stock meats, cheeses and artisan beers with everything produced locally. The refurbishment will be known as Spinning Jennies and will also house a Champagne bar, food hall and a host of local retailers. spinningjennies.co.uk

6 CYBER CRIME NEWS March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
The company said the acquisition would allow it to to maximise its recent investment at its headquarters,and drive growth
The latest from farm shops across the country In association with Fabulous Farm Shops fabulousfarmshops.co.uk

GUIDE TO INVENTIONS

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ELECTRIC CAR

New electric car owners suffer from range anxiety: a worry that their battery will not last the journey. Miller’s Toast Cranberry & Raisin is so good that you must live with an equal fear of running low.

SMARTPHONE

There are worries that phone overuse is turning us all stupid! But you can be sure of making the smart choice once you have dialled into Miller’s Toast Fig & Sultana.

FIRE HYDRANT

The Mother of all Invention

Nobody knows who invented the fire hydrant, as the patent was destroyed in a fire! What can be confirmed is that Miller’s Toast Plum & Date will leave you feeling fired up, not watered down.

Vol.25 Issue 2 | 2
THE
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IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW...

I moved to Norfolk over 30 years ago. For nearly 20 of those, I worked in the management of visitor attractions, which ignited my passion for Norfolk and its produce. When the delicatessen at Wroxham Barns became available in 2022, it seemed the perfect opportunity to champion the fantastic products and people I had worked with over the years – while running my own business.

75% of everything I sell is produced within a 40-mile radius of the shop. Norfolk and Suffolk cheeses fill the cheese counter and, with Marsh Pig on my doorstep, I don’t need to stock Continental charcuterie.

My strongest area is alcohol. I sell 45 ranges, all sourced locally. These include over 50 beers from breweries such as Woodforde’s and Wildcraft, wines from the Burn Valley and Winbirri vineyards, ciders from Norfolk Raider, Drove Orchards and Sandringham Apple Farm, and spirits from Black Shuck, Sunfire Spirits and English Whisky Distillery. The shelf space I dedicate to these products is justified through high margins; I have to sell a lot of cheese to match the margin I get from one £40 bottle. When it comes to pricing strategy, I usually stick to the RRP, as long as it is not too high for the local market. I don’t want to be seen as expensive. I always check whether products can be bought elsewhere and cross-reference pricing.

Fresh produce has proved more challenging. Last summer I offered fruit and veg but it wasn’t turning over quickly enough and generated too much waste. I still sell milk, eggs and bread, but they have become loss leaders.

Seasonality is another major challenge but fortunately one I am used to from years of running attractions that tend to make a loss in winter. It is about anticipating this and generating enough cashflow during the summer months to get the business through the winter.

Being in an artisan shopping village has been a huge advantage for my brand and my customer base. However, it is also a limiting factor - local cafés prevent me from extending my offer. Along with the size of the shop (30sq m), this effectively caps profitability. I open six days a week (seven during holiday season), which is just enough to make the business viable. This is also the reason why it is just me working in the business – I can’t support another member of staff.

Fortunately, I enjoy my own company and I love the flexibility of running my own business. Having the freedom to share my passion is what I enjoy. I can’t imagine ever tiring of that. willowtreedeli.co.uk

9 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 VIEWPOINTS

View from HQ

FFD’s publisher and Guild of Fine Food managing director John Farrand has his say

WE’VE GIVEN AWAY plenty of column inches in Fine Food Digest to the welcome news that Mrs Kirkham’s cheese production has restarted. I’ve seen the same sort of coverage in The Grocer but interestingly less coverage in the consumer press, in print or online. And that ticks me o .

Why? Just before Christmas the pages of the Mail Online and its naïve media chums were posting headlines exclaiming that not only would Mrs Kirkham’s cheese harm you, but all unpasteurised cheese would. And you shouldn’t buy artisan cheese from a deli, as that was almost certainly poison. One headline

JOIN THE GUILD’S TEAM

The Guild of Fine Food is recruiting a PR & partnerships officer to join our growing marketing & communications team. Responsible for planning and executing all PR initiatives (with an initial focus on Great Taste and World Cheese Awards), the new hire will ideally be an experienced PR professional.

If this sounds like you, or someone you know, head to  gff.co.uk/pr-job

Don’t forget to explore our new website to find out more about how the Guild can help your business. Find out more about becoming a member, joining our training courses taking place across the UK, and making use of the online directory, where you will find recommendations for awardwinning products, suppliers, and retailers. gff.co.uk

pushed it too far by including the words ‘person died’ with absolutely no evidence, proof, or connection to food, let alone the cheese under investigation.

None of those media channels have the decency to cover the story to its conclusion, with the outcome being that Kirkham’s cheese is safe, well-made (tastes bloody good too) and had nothing to do with any illness or death. The only accurate words were ‘Cheese scare’. That’s all it was: stirring up the ‘thank God my cheese is made by a robot’ brigade using scare-tactics to increase online ad sales.

For the sake of balance there was a more positive turophileled story on the same site last month. It was gentle relief to absorb some good old-fashioned PR by Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi, who claimed that his restaurant cheeseboards are now 50% British, the other half being French and Italian. Read the piece online.

The timing couldn’t have been better given my plea last month to improve the cheese courses o ered at restaurants countrywide. The course that is o en the poor relation on most menus, plagued with wastage issues and scant training for those serving it.

Monsieur Bosi praises our homegrown cheese, although that

is not a surprise to those of us already invested in the British artisan cheese scene. But the ripe pear I was consuming with a chunk of Westcombe, caught in my throat as I read his declaration that Davidstow cheddar was better than a 48-month-old Comté. Excuse the clumsy Breaking Bad analogy, but at best Davidstow is a “gateway cheddar”, on an essential journey to more complicated, avoursome and ful lling things: just like my piece of Tom Calver’s best.

None of those media channels have the decency to cover the story to its conclusion

Nonetheless, the sentiment behind this slightly sensationalist piece is laudable. Join our movement to improve cheese in foodservice. Retailers: why not approach your local pub, restaurant or hotel and work with them on supply & wastage, how to serve, and cheese chat to educate the diner. You’ll be sure to let them know that unpasteurised cheese and cheese made by the little people will most likely knock ‘em dead.

The Word on Westminster

THE UK OFFICIALLY fell into recession in the second half of 2023, with a contraction in the economy of 0.1% in Q3 and 0.3% in Q4 2023.

For a Prime Minister trying to establish a positive legacy in a limited timeframe, with growing the economy one of his five key pledges, the phrase ‘Rishi’s Recession’ echoing through the halls of Westminster is hardly ideal.

With the UK election now predicted to be in October to avoid clashing with the US election, the Government has one last big opportunity to pivot towards growth before campaigning starts and manifestos are published.

All eyes are on the Spring Budget to see what fiscal headroom Jeremy Hunt has to work with, and whether he’ll be looking at long term decisions or a short

term play for votes.

One of the areas that retailers have been looking at for several years is the outdated business rates system. Since the pandemic, retail and hospitality businesses have been shielded from the burden of rates, but this remains a sticking plaster for a system that isn’t fit for purpose. The challenge of devising a new system from scratch that is fair to everyone has thus far proven too difficult despite multiple reviews. But an intention to rebalance the system so that online businesses pay their share should be high on the list of priorities.

The National Living Wage is another area where the Government has to strike a difficult balance. Consecutive aboveinflation increases have led to it achieving its target for this year, but from here on, the path is unclear. Increases cannot continue at the rate that they have been going. While it may be tempting to use hikes in minimum wage rates as a

vote-winner, the long-term impact may yet be problematic.

While the Chancellor will be hoping to find ways for retailers and other businesses to invest in sustainability measures and do their part to grow the economy, this will come as new regulations (and new costs) on the horizon. The introduction of a deposit return scheme, the implementation of rules on checking imports of food, restrictions on the vaping category, a generational smoking ban and additional recycling requirements are all interventions that retailers are going to have to spend money on, leaving less to invest in other areas.

With all of this to juggle, Jeremy Hunt may need to pull more than one rabbit out of the hat in March to conjure up a sustainable growth plan for the UK.

Edward Woodall is government relations director at the ACS edward.woodall@acs.org.uk

10 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2

CONFESSIONS OF A DELI OWNER

ANONYMOUS TALES FROM BEHIND THE COUNTER

DO YOU SELL wine? I sell wine. I sell wine badly.

It has been one of the great failures of my deli career. At least once a year I resolve to discount my existing range, get in a new wine supplier, jazz up my blackboards and write owery things on shelf labels. In a full display of hope over experience I re-do my (very short) café wine list believing the next day the customers will swap their lattes for chardonnays. It’s never happened.

A customer might idly cast an eye over my bottles with the air of someone who knows what they’re talking. They might ask a couple of questions. But o en they won’t buy because I don’t o er the range, the value or the weird and wonderful to capture their attention. I don’t think I’m alone.

In general, I think independent food retailers are rubbish at selling wine. There are two kinds of retailers who do seem to nail it,

though.

The rst are large farm shops with a small display of popular brands that customers drop into the basket as they pick up their rump steak. Secondly, there are the shops that stock a good range of local beers, ciders and wines.

In the rst group, the customer is reassured by names they recognise at price points that comfort them. The second group unlocks the

customer’s trust because they are prepared to pay the “local” premium.

In my deli, I can’t buy recognised brands competitively. And contrary to what many people will tell you I don’t think people buy wine for cheese. They buy wine for the meal – but they expect it to go with the cheese.

If a customer is not going to make a special trip to a wine shop, they’re probably happier buying from the supermarket rather than me.

Frankly, the supermarket has more choice of better priced wine than I will ever have. If I were to invite in some nice over-educated wine rep to choose me some good-value-yet-obscure bottles of Zinfandel, Soave or Tokaji, it just wouldn’t work.

In general, I think independent food retailers are rubbish at selling wine.

But I won’t give up! And I have decided to train up. Having done my WSET Level 2, I’m booked to start my Level 3 this week. My theory is that my cheese chat is world class hence I sell lots of cheese. I have been blindly assuming I can be that wine person without putting in the hours in.

So, wish me luck. I’ll be talking jammy black fruits, wet pebble minerality and new American oak in no time. I am sure the customers will come ooding in.

4% Was the inflation rate in the twelve months leading up to January 2024. Meanwhile, prices of food and non-alcoholic beverages rose by 7%

Source: Office for National Statistics (ONS)

Retail eye

RETAIL ASSOCIATION CHAIR EMMA

What do you imagine when you think of a farm shop? Aisles of fresh produce, the smell of fresh bread and sausage rolls baked on site, jars of local jams and chutneys…

According to research conducted for the FRA by Harper Adams University, there are an estimated 1,581 farm retailers in the UK, employing 25,000 people, with sales of £1.4bn. But how do we de ne what a farm shop really is, and why is this important?

Farm shops are popular. When looking for local produce or an interesting, wholesome day out, consumers Google ‘farm shops’. Many garden centres and even supermarkets have got wind of this, and are opening ‘farm shops’ instead of ‘food halls’. There are no farm credentials here, but should people care?

The issue is that some of these new ‘farm shops’ are essentially gi shops with a few jars of chutney chucked in, sourced nationally rather than locally. Farm shops should be the gold standard of fresh produce, sourcing from

the farm where they began or as locally as possible. If farm shops become glori ed gi emporiums, where is the UK’s food culture?

Real farm shops are the bastion of UK food. They o er what we grow in our elds directly to consumers in an interactive, enjoyable shopping experience. Like other specialist food retailers, we still do things properly. No farm-fresh supermarket fakery here. We are the real deal. We grow, bake, cook and source real produce from our local areas. We employ local people, and give back to our local communities and economies.

In order to protect what we do, we need a clear de nition of what a farm shop is. Once we de ne the criteria – such as farming beginnings, or a certain proportion of suppliers coming from within a certain radius of the farm – we can work together with retailers large and small to grow to our potential and o er more to the customer.

No farm-fresh supermarket fakery here. We are the real deal.

ARE YOU LOOKING FOR MORE?

Whether it’s staff training, business advice, event space, making industry connections or opportunities to meet trade buyers and food lovers, the Guild of Fine Food does far more than publish FFD. The Guild has been championing independent food & drink for over 30 years. Join us today and find out what we can do for your business.

Support & ideas: support@gff.co.uk

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gff.co.uk/join

11 VIEWPOINTS March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
EMMA

This is Food and Drink. This is Wales.

When nature begins to awaken from its deep winter slumber, and the days grow longer, springtime promises of warmer times ahead. Our Welsh farmers, fishers and growers have worked tirelessly during the winter months to bring us fresh, delicious produce. Isn’t it time your taste buds came out of hibernation?

March 2024
f FoodDrinkWales @FoodDrinkWales Food_Drink_Wales l Bwyd a Diod Cymru | Food and Drink Wales
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Our one-day course for anyone sourcing or selling cheese, delivered by industry and retail experts. Understand how cheese is made, how it should be stored and sold, gain skills to help communicate with customers and sell more cheese from a position of knowledge.

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To nd out more and book a place on our 2024 courses, visit www.g .co.uk/training

March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 26
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THE TASTE OF
AMERICA IN A JAR CHIMILOVE

New Brexit controls already deterring raw milk cheesemakers from Europe

Raw milk cheesemakers in Europe are giving up on exports to the UK because of the extra costs and bureaucracy of new post-Brexit controls.

That’s the message from importers, who say new border requirements brought in by the UK Government on 31st January are creating signi cant barriers for cheesemakers in the EU, while plans to bring in physical checks on 30th April are likely to make the situation worse.

Under the Border Target Operating Model (BTOM), raw milk cheeses are classi ed as ‘medium risk’ and require costly health certi cates from a vet to enter the UK. They

will also be subject to physical checks at UK ports from the end of April.

Pasteurised cheeses are classi ed as ‘low risk’ so are not subject to the same scrutiny, however consignments of either type of cheese must carry commercial paperwork and be pre-registered on a new IT system.

“The extra time and costs involved in getting vet’s certi cates and booking noti cations is a big deal for tiny producers, especially those making raw milk cheeses”, said Jose Bueno, cheese buyer at Spanish food importer Brindisa.“The danger is they decide the UK is just not worth the hassle and there is less diversity on British shelves.”

NEWS IN BRIEF

Cheesemongers have celebrated the return of Kirkham’s Lancashire, after food authorities cleared the cheese for sale. It was linked to an E.coli outbreak and subject to a precautionary recall, but rigorous testing found no trace of the strain.

Production of the Dales-style cheese Cotherstone has stopped because cheesemaker Joan Cross has retired. The crumbly cheese was made for more than 30 years.

Buchanans Cheesemonger has taken over the unit next to its current shop near Hyde Park and plans to double in size. The space will feature a cheese counter, wine shop and tasting room, plus more maturing rooms in the cellar.

He added: “The new requirements favour bigger businesses making pasteurised cheeses because the costs are proportionally much smaller if you are exporting tonnes of cheese. Some of our cheesemakers used to send a couple of boxes at a time. Now raw milk producers have to get a vet’s certi cate and send a sealed pallet, which means maybe changing their transport company.”

Italian food importer La Credenza director Nick Clinton described the new requirements as “drastic and tragic”.

“We work with tiny rural businesses and they are o en several hours drive from the nearest vet, so it’s just not feasible for them. We have already lost four raw milk cheesemakers from our range and are having to deal with big cost increases.”

In County Clare, Ireland, raw goats’ cheesemaker St Tola said the country’s Department of Agriculture did not have enough resources for a vet to visit each cheesemaker, so a centralised inspection system had been set up with shipments checked at distributors’ premises.

“All of this creates extra work, cost and inconvenience for everyone concerned,” said owner Siobhán Ni Ghairbhith.

Village Maid Dairy has taken over production of Barkham Blue from Two Hoots in a deal that keeps the popular Guernsey milk blue in the family. Sandy and Andy Rose, who set up Two Hoots near Wokingham 20 years ago, have sold the business to Sandy’s cousin, Anne Wigmore, founder of Village Maid. The Wigmores will continue to make the distinctive ammonite-shaped blue at their dairy in Berkshire.

CHEESE

THREE WAYS WITH...

Goat Gouda

A young goat Gouda is the cheese for people who don’t like goats’ cheese. Sweet and floral with none of the goaty tang that some people find challenging, it’s a real crowd pleaser. Wyngaard from Woerden, in The Netherlands, is a good example. Aged for four months until it it is sweet and pliable with just a few crystals, it’s an easy cheese to love.

Amber ale

There’s a caramel richness to goat Gouda that veers into white chocolate and condensed milk notes. These flavours are backed up beautifully by an amber ale, which has its own malty sweetness. Try Sugarloaf Dark Ale from Tudor Brewery in Monmouthshire, which has a copper hue and dried fruit notes.

Fennel seeds

Adding spices to Gouda is a centuries-old tradition in the Netherlands. Cumin, chilli flakes and fenugreek are all commonly used in flavoured Goudas, but a sprinkle of spices can also be served on the side with unflavoured cheeses. Fennel seeds are a particularity nice accompaniment for goat Gouda. The crunchy seeds contrast with the fudgey texture of the cheese, and the aniseed flavour highlights subtle floral notes.

Cherry jam

A condiment with a sugary tartness is a good idea with Gouda, matching up to its sweetness, but also adding a contrasting acidity. The perfumed sweetness of cherry jam is a great choice for the aromatic notes found in a goat Gouda, while the sourness provides structure. Somerset-based The Cherry Tree makes a Cherry & Amaretto Extra Jam, which won a 2-star at last year’s Great Taste.

17
March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
New border requirements have made selling into the UK much tougher for raw milk producers from Continental Europe
©pexels.com
Aan Amrin

Tuxford & Tebbutt’s future in the balance as Stilton sales fall

The future of one of Britain’s oldest Stilton makers is at risk as sales of the iconic blue continue to crumble.

Arla Foods has launched a strategic review of Tuxford & Tebbutt and is looking at selling the business, which has made Stilton in Melton Mowbray since 1780 and employs 60 people. It said the review would conclude in April and was necessary due to falling sales.

Tuxford & Tebbutt is one of just six dairies that still make Stilton. The historic cheese, which is protected by a PDO, has struggled in recent years as milder blues have become more popular and sales were hit badly during Covid.

The 150-year-old Stilton maker Webster’s Dairy in Leicestershire was forced to close in 2020 due to the impact of the pandemic.

According to farming body AHDB, quoting research from NIQ Homescan Panel, volumes of Stilton and British

CHEESE IN PROFILE with

Flower Marie

What’s the story?

Kevin and Alison Blunt have been making cheese for over 30 years, though neither comes from farming stock. The couple met at university, where Kevin studied Biochemistry and Alison completed a degree in Human Biology. They found themselves drawn to the land and following a trip to Alison’s parents in Eastbourne in the early ‘80s, they came across, and subsequently bought, Greenacres Farm, a six-acre smallholding

blues fell by 3.4% in the year to 27th January 2024, while 122,000 fewer households purchased the cheese during the same time. This was partly explained by shoppers being put o by big price increases due to in ation. Prices went up 17.4% in the period, said the AHDB, equating to an extra £1.89 per kg, on average.

“While food price in ation is slowing on the highs seen

in Golden Cross, East Sussex. For five years, they lived in a mobile home and reared pigs, chickens and goats – selling milk to a local cheesemaker. When said maker retired, they bought the business and developed their first cheese, Golden Cross. Kevin and Alison were also given the recipe for Flower Marie, a ewes’ milk, soft mould-ripened cheese, by the late James Aldridge. He created it in the early nineties, naming it after the late Ann-Marie Dyas, founder of The Fine Cheese Co. Matthew Blunt, one of Kevin and Alison’s three sons, now runs the farm with his parents and the help of three part-time staff.

How is it made?

Three evenings a week, starter culture, vegetarian rennet and Penicillium candidum are added to warm unpasteurised

last year, shoppers are still very aware of their budgets,” said AHDB analyst Charlotte Forkes-Rees. “We are seeing consumers changing their shopping habits to mitigate rising costs, with purchasing less, trading down tiers, switching more expensive cheeses for cheaper ones and switching retailers all being utilised as a means of saving money.”

BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE

Katherine Gershon, owner of Gershon & Sons, Bucks

Wine, beer and cider are classic matches for cheese, but Katherine Gershon has developed a profitable line in cheese and spirits pairings at her shop in Amersham.

The cheesemonger’s small-but-perfectlyformed spirits range has been picked partly for its ability to go well with cheese.

“We have a whisky from the Tobermory distillery because it goes so well with Isle of Mull Cheddar, which is made nearby,” she says. “They are so easy to cross-sell because it’s a case of ‘what grows together goes together’.”

Likewise, the shop’s Glendronach whisky is matured in sherry casks and works well with aged sheep and goat’s milk cheeses in a similar way to sherry and Manchego. Gin is also a big focus, which Gershon recommends in a gin and tonic for cutting through soft, gooey cheeses, such as Brie and goat’s cheese.

“It’s so easy to put a bottle of gin in hamper with a tin of olives and a couple of cheeses as a Martini and cheese gift,” she adds. “We’re also looking at running cheese and gin pairing tasting events later this year.” gershonandsons.com

milk from a single herd of Friesland-Dorset sheep from Wayfield Dairy in Stratford-upon-Avon. This is left in a warm room for 14-16 hours to form a curd. The next day, it is hand ladled into square moulds and left to drain.

The cheeses are turned, brined and eventually moved to a drying room for at least two days until they are firm enough to go into the maturing room.

The cheeses are aged for

around a month, during which time a bloomy rind forms.

Appearance & texture:

The pillowy squares of snow-white cheese are firm when young, with delicate grass and citrus notes. As they mature, the paste becomes softer and gooier

from the rind inwards, with more intense, mushroom flavours and an underlying sweetness.

Variations: Made in individual 200g and 600g cutting sizes.

Cheesemonger tip: A great alternative to offer instead of brie, served on a Toast for Cheese cracker with pickled figs. .

Chef’s recommendation: Tawny Ports work well with Flower Marie –the sweet, nutty wine matching the flavours in the cheese. Or try a crisp, white wine, which refreshes the palate between bites of the rich and indulgent, creamy cheese.

18 CHEESE March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
Parent company Arla is conducting a review of the Melton Mowbray Stilton-maker Flower Marie is one of the 200 cheeses studied as part of the Academy of Cheese Level Three Certification. For more information on this and all of their courses, head to: academyofcheese.org
March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 16
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Covid was bloody tough. We lost 90% of our orders overnight. It was sink or swim.

Making the most of the goat

Norfolk’s Fielding Cottage is a shining example of how cheesemakers can diversify on site

THE ANSWER MACHINE message for Fielding Cottage in Norfolk shows just how far cheesemakers can diversify when they need to. Instead of “leave a message a er the tone”, callers are invited to choose from options including its farm shop, the kitchen restaurant, holiday cottages, and awardwinning goats’ cheeses.

When I nally get through to founder Sam Steggles, who runs the business with his wife Caroline, he reveals there are plenty of other enterprises that haven’t yet made it on to the voicemail, including goats’ milk skin-care products, cheesemaking classes and even a ‘goat spa’, where the public pay to spend time brushing and cuddling the farm’s goats.

“It is a bit di erent,” he says. “People love interaction with animals. It’s part of that desire for well-being and better mental health. It’s good for public relations and good for sales.”

Goat cuddling was not part of the plan when Fielding Cottage was set up in 2009. Back then Steggles was still working full-time for a poultry equipment company, making crumbly Norfolk Mardler, the brie-style Wensum White and goats’ curd in his spare time to sell at farmers’ markets. But the Honingham-based business changed gears in 2015 when wholesaler Bradburys approached about becoming a supply partner.

“It was just a er Wensum had won Super Gold at the World Cheese Awards,” says Steggles. “We had a real desire to grow but weren’t set up for talking to big retailers and foodservice operators, so it was a good t.”

The deal, which has seen the cheeses served on airline cheeseboards and listed by

Sainsbury’s, gave the company the security to invest in a 5,000-litre vat and pasteuriser. Steggles le his job in 2018 and production grew to 22 tonnes as other wholesalers, including Carron Lodge and Hamish Johnson, started listing their cheeses.

Steggles was keen to develop sales further, successfully applying for a Nu eld Scholarship for a research trip to see how other farm-based food manufacturers around the world have managed to grow sustainably. But just a few days into the trip in 2020, Covid struck and orders fell o a cli . He was forced to y home and work out how to grow the business by himself, during a pandemic.

“I le for Australia on a Sunday and was back the following Sunday with nothing to show for it except a new haircut,” he says. “Covid was bloody tough. We lost 90% of our orders overnight and 100% of the income from our holiday cottages. It was sink or swim.”

Steggles paddled hard, diversifying in multiple ways helped by grants and bank loans. A pop-up farm shop – the Goat Shed – was so successful it became a permanent 8,000sq xture, while the 200-cover restaurant was added in 2021, along with cheesemaking courses and the goat spa. Turnover is now at £4m and the business is investing in a butchery and bakery, while looking to grow cheese volumes by working with Bradburys to create unique products for retailers and foodservice operators.

“Covid taught us you can’t have all your eggs in one basket,” he says. “We live in the most beautiful place – we hear the birds singing and feel the wind on our face every morning – but it’s easy to take it for granted. We’ve realised that people want to come and experience it for themselves.”

Expect plenty more love for the goats at Fielding Cottage in the future. fieldingcottage.co.uk

Wensum White

First launched in 2014, Wensum White is a brie-style cheese named after a local river. It is made in 140g oblongs using pasteurised milk and vegetarian rennet.

Steggles started the business with 10 goats, building the herd to 800 at one point, but sold most of the animals around eight years ago. “My heart was always in farming, but farming and cheesemaking are two very different businesses,” says Steggles. The five-acre farm still has 12 Boer goats, which are used in the spa, plus a growing herd of Simmental cows.

The bright white mould-ripened soft cheese has a mild goaty flavour with grassy, herbaceous notes. The texture changes as it matures, ranging from semi-soft when young to runny at 5-6 weeks.

21 CHEESE March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
1
3
CROSS SECTION 2

Time to step out

Moch Coch began on the kitchen table of a Carmarthenshire farm. Now its founder wants to move from market stalls to retail shelves.

MOST SMALL PRODUCERS can be elusive but decent charcutiers seem particularly adept at it. So, when Bethan Morgan calls 5 minutes before our interview is due to start to ask to reschedule because of an urgent batch of sausages, it is reassuring to FFD rather than annoying. By this metric, and a few others, the founder of Moch Coch (Welsh for “red pig”, a reference to her freeroaming Tamworths on her farm) in certainly on the right track a er a whirlwind journey into charcuterie.

She’s gone from being a full-time acupuncturist to a farmer, butcher and charcutier in the space of a few years, producing a range of salami and whole muscle cuts on her hillside homestead in Carmarthenshire. And now she’s looking to graduate from selling charcuterie and the aforementioned fresh items to consumers on farmers’ markets to supplying retailers and restaurants.

Morgan and her partner were already producing their own food on their small farm but Covid and lockdown gave her the push she needed to sell her acupuncture business make a go of farming full-time.

Over the course of two years she has gone from maturing some salamis in a fridge in an old car workshop to tting out a butchery unit and separate drying room and packing area (all with top ratings from her EHO) on site.

“It’s been very much a year of getting each step right,” says Morgan, referencing the last 12 months of adding fans, humidi ers and cooling systems to adjust conditions in her drying room.

“Now I’ve got solid products and solid recipes in a room where I know they’re going to dry nicely.”

Despite the fact that she was experimenting during this period, Morgan still managed to pick up two Great Taste 1-star awards last year – for her Coppa and Chorizo.

The practical skills from her previous career might explain how Morgan has taken to butchery and making charcuterie, with little more than a one-day course, Youtube tutorials and some advice from her culture supplier Westcombe Charcuterie. But her background in natural health remedies has also informed her approach to rearing her Tamworth pigs.

“My vision starts with the health of the animals, the gut of the animals and how much wild forage they’re eating,” she says, adding that she takes a homeopathic approach to the entire farm. While they get a “full ration” of nonmedicated pig feed, the Tamworths supplement this themselves by foraging for anything from acorns and sorrel leaves to thistle roots and grass.

Whether they are digging up pasture or exploring wooded hillsides, Morgan’s sows are truly free-range.

“You go out to try and nd them and it takes 10 minutes because they’ve found an oak tree and they’ve been eating acorns all night, then they just dig a hollow in the ground and sleep outside in a food coma.”

While the environment contributes to the end product, Morgan has also speci cally chosen her breed.

“You get this fantastic avour but Tamworths are slow-growing so the price of raising the meat is quite high, you’re feeding them for longer. For a commercial breed they’re nishing them at ve months whereas my charcuterie girls I’ll be nishing them at 9 months to a year.”

Given the amount of fat marbling and avour in the meat, Morgan keeps her seasonings and cures fairly simple across her range.

The Moch Coch range

Whole Farmhouse Salami  230g (trade £8.40)

Chorizo 80g (trade £6.30)

Beef & Juniper

Salami  80g (trade £6.86)

Fennel & Green Peppercorn Salami 80g (£6.16)

Sliced packs

Coppa  80g (£6.86)

Air dried Welsh beef 80g (£10.36)

Prosciutto  80g (£6.86)

Her personal favourite and best-seller, the Farmhouse Salami is only augmented with black peppercorns and her prosciutto features a “really simple” embellishment of black pepper and sea salt. The treatment for her award-winning Coppa is comparatively outlandish, deploying juniper berries taken from the stills at nearby Jin Talog. The range also features an Air-dried Welsh Beef made with organic meat from a neighbouring farm.

With the range now set, plenty of space in the drying room and some highly impressive bi-lingual, plastic-free packaging already in use, Moch Coch is ready to move into the B2B sphere. Morgan has set her rst target at a modest 12 regular retail/foodservice listings, alongside doubling her weekly processing volume from four to eight pigs and increasing the hours of a parttime butcher she gets in every week.

“One year from now, I really hope not to be standing on farmers’ markets, apart from my local one. It’s much more e cient to say, ‘Right I’m doing deliveries today to 5 or 6 shops’.”

And with that, she may no longer need to make those disruptive sausages. mochcoch.wales

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Whiskey an opportunity for indies as Northern Ireland’s production surges

Whiskey producers in Northern Ireland are looking to be the next big thing in spirits, as rapid growth and investment in the category has led to major leaps in variety and quality in recent years.

At an event hosted by the trade organisation Invest NI, a number of Irish whiskey distilleries and blending operations hailed the shi that has happened in the past 10 years.

From 30 distilleries before the prohibition in the 1930s, the number of producers making the 12th century Irish spirit dropped down to three in the 1990s, and is now back up to an estimated 40. It is thought the market for Irish whiskey has almost quadrupled in the past 12 years.

“There was the rebirth of an interest with a lot of it due to the gin resurgence that happened in the early 2000s, when our smaller distilleries started to

open up producing gin,” explained Terry McCartan, brand ambassador for whiskey producer, Hinch.

The company's Co. Down distillery was built in 2019 by entrepreneur and owner of a vineyard in Bordeaux, Dr Terry Cross OBE, and produces both gin and Irish whiskey.

As well as brand new distilleries, a number of former ones are being revived – like Belfast’s historical McConnell’s, which was originally founded in 1776 before

WHAT THEY ARE SAYING ABOUT...

...WHAT’S POPULAR IN

FRENCH WINE RIGHT

NOW

“Juicy, fresh, light reds. Anything that’s easy to drink, with or without food. They’re approachable and low in alcohol which is important because of the new duty system, which taxes wine according to its ABV.

Loire Valley reds like Chinon (Cabernet Franc) are a good example. Customers will thank you for stocking a good Fleurie. Gamay tends to be floral and fruity on the nose, and delivers notes of tart, red fruits.”

closing down in the 1930s. It relaunched the brand in 2020 and reopened its own distillery on the site of the former Crumlin Road Gaol prison in 2023.

“If all of these brands are emerging, it’s because people are clearly buying it,” said McCartan.

And as many budding industries, it would seem that there is solidarity between producers – the idea of giving others a leg up is very much on the cards for McConnell’s, as explained by brand ambassador Séan Rocks.

“We’re o ering barrel programs where people can buy their own barrels of whiskey. We’re also going to be selling our new make or aged spirits to other brands getting o the ground,” he said.

For McCartan, the opportunity in selling Irish whiskey from a retailer’s perspective is that it is a familiar product in some ways –because most people know brands like Bushmills and Jameson – but di erent in that producers are experimenting with grain combinations and nishes.

“If they’re in the game

“People either buy into Champagne or they don’t. Until recently, when the occasion called for a glass of fizz, people who would pay the price of Champagne opted for Prosecco instead, but the tide is turning and they’re looking for alternatives, like Blanquette de Limoux, or Crémants. They’re made according to the same method as Champagne so you get the expression of fruit and the time on lees for a fraction of the price.”

DID YOU KNOW...?

Irish whiskey is different to Scotch in how it is produced. Whereas Scottish whisky must spend three years in oak barrels, Irish whiskey can be stored in any wood and can be finished in other barrels, such as ex-sherry, wine, bourbon or amarone casks. Irish whiskey can be made with any combination of grains – often using corn as its base – whereas Scottish whisky must be made with malted barley.

Though the practice is more common than it used to be, Irish whiskey is rarely peated, so tends to be less smokey than Scottish whiskey, and it is usually triple distilled.

to kind of o er people a diversity of products and things that are a little bit out of the box, then that’s something they can explore that will be new on their shelves,” said McCartan. “People have been into their cra drinks for quite a while now, so there’s space for other types of spirit to come in.”

“Orange wine is here to stay. Examples from the Loire Valley deliver fruit and minerality, and pair exceptionally well with food.

Côtes de Provence rosé is continuing its glorious ascension, but look out for good whites from the region, too. Languedoc-Roussillon is increasingly making use of Vermentino, usually made into whites in Sardinia and Tuscany. You’ll get bright citrus, ripe fruit, a touch of grapefruit skin, and a slight salinity. Fine examples are excellent value for money.”

27 Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 DRINKS
CECILE LAVAUDWHITE, LES PRODUCTEURS & VIGNERONS DE FRANCE DANIEL LAMBERT, DANIEL LAMBERT WINES

Can I mature my hard cheeses on wooden shelves?

Can I display and store some hard cheeses and cured meats at ambient?

How can I prove that I have not exceeded a given use-by date when the outer packaging has been discarded?

Can I cut cheese and meats with the same equipment?

Can I display olives at ambient temperature?

Do I need to know about Natasha’s Law?

Do I have to mature or ripen cheese under refrigerated conditions?

Developed by the Guild of Fine Food and food experts at Cornwall Council, the Deli Retailing Code of Practice is split into three main sections – Food Safety Essentials, Good Hygiene Practices and Trading Standards – the Code is intended as a one-stop reference guide for deli teams, providing the guidance to ensure that both compliance and best practice standards can be achieved in all areas of retail.

The Deli Retailing Code of Practice is available in PDF format and can be requested by emailing support@g . co.uk. The Code is free to Guild of Fine Food members and can be purchased by non-members for £250+VAT.

March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 26
Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing g .co.uk | +44 (0)1747 825200 | @guildo nefood
Is it safe to cook and freeze a previously frozen raw product?
You have questions our Code of Practice
answers JOY ON A PLATE For generations now, our family has been making a real commitment to taste and excellence, hoping to help you add a bit of magic to every mealtime. www.jameswhelanbutchers.com | info@jameswhelanbutchers.com
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March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 30 WINNERS OF TWENTY FOUR GREAT TASTE AWARDS 01264 319980 | www.cambrookfoods.co.uk FIND US AT HRC/IFE – Stand No. 5349 Specialists at baking, seasoning and caramelising the best grades of nuts Extraordinary Nuts FIND US AT HRC/IFE Stand no. 5349 NEW PRODUCTS FOR 2024 #83-FFD-100x141mm.indd 1 14/02/2024 07:15 Shop now at: www.8foods.co.uk Nutrient packed & great taste to boot! Award winning and handmade in Devon, our delicious range of traditional ‘Proper’ and more adventurous ‘Improper’ marmalades are not just for breakfast! See our full range and place an order at www.thepropermarmaladecompany.co.uk Visit The Proper Marmalade Shop in North Devon at 9 Belgrave Promenade, Wilder Road, Ilfracombe, EX34 9AS For wholesale enquiries, please email info@thepropermarmaldecompany.co.uk Introducing the savoury cracker that is honestly good for you and tastes even better.
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CATEGORY FOCUS

sweet & savoury snacks

When it comes to the crunch…

Snacking is an area that’s always full of NPD and our look at the latest developments features all kinds of innovation. We also li the lid on another key category, jams & preserves (starting on page 34).

White corn tortilla chips

Tipperary-based tortilleria Blanco Niño has launched two new tortilla chip lines – Creamy Jalapeño and Smoky Chipotle – under its retail snack label. Both varieties are made using an ancient Aztec method known as nixtamalisation that takes three days from start to finish. Whole corn is cooked then steeped overnight, before being ground into a dough (masa) using hand-carved Mexican volcanic stones. This masa is shaped and baked into tortillas which are left to rest overnight, before being hand-cut and fried into tortilla chips. RRP £2.90 for 170g. blanco-nino.com

What A Date has filled sun-dried handpicked khidri dates with honeyed pistachio and dressed them up in stylish livery that has caught the attention of buyers at Daylesford Organic and Partridges. RRP £3.50 for 50g; £9.95 for 180g. whatadate.com

Buck’n’Bird, a newcomer on the meat snack scene, has its sights set firmly on beer enthusiasts as the target audience for its Salami Crisps. The startup, whose name stems from the rugby allegiances (South Africa and New Zealand) of its founders, is also hoping the snacks’ high protein content will drive their popularity as a keto-friendly option. Trade price £1.48; RRP £3. bucknbird.com

Francophiles will embrace Brets’ new Tartiflette potato crisp variety, which is modelled on the classic mountain dish. Available from Victus Emporium in the UK, Brets champions French cuisine, provenance and produce through its flavours and its supply chains: the crisps are made from potatoes grown by Breton farmers and feature quintessentially French ingredients like Camembert and Goats’ Cheese. RRP £2.75 for 125g. victusemporium.co.uk

Those who exclude meat from their diets no longer have to miss out on crackling following the launch of Perfectly Vegan’s Lentil Crackling Curls. Said to contain 70% less fat than standard crisps, they also boast a high protein and fibre content. Trade price £0.80 for 80g; RRP £1.35-1.45. perfectlyvegan.co.uk

With the help of pulsing technology, New Forest Fruit is turning misshapen strawberries from its farm into a fruity lunchbox snack. Pulsing is a process that pierces the cells of the strawberry and pushes out any excess water. In combination with freezedrying, this produces a meringue-like snack. Pulsed Dried Strawberries come in compostable 10g bags. Trade price £1.25; RRP £1.95.

newforestfruit.com

Salted Pretzels and Giant Chilli Corn are both proving popular as cocktail bar snacks with Cambrook Nuts’ hotel customers, prompting the Hampshire nut producer to add them to its premium jar range for retailers and hampers. Giant Chilli Corn uses extra large corn kernels from Cusco in Peru, which are roasted and chilliseasoned. RRP £2.30 for 52g.

cambrookfoods.co.uk

At Popcorn Shed, NPD has taken a crazy, colourful and sweet turn with the launch of Classic Caramel, Unicorn Candy Floss, Millionaire’s Shortbread & Chocolate Trio popcorn. All three new flavours are available in signature 80g sheds (RRP £4.50) and 24g portion packs (RRP £1.70).

popcornshed.com

32 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2

With olive oil on a seemingly unstoppable upwards price trajectory due to successive poor olive harvests, Olives Et Al has had a think about how it can bring jarred olives to consumers without passing on the hike in costs. This has led to the development of a new range of brine cured olives, which launched in February.

Olives Et Al says it has “dusted off” an age-old technique of ‘cool’ brining which has allowed it to inject “huge amounts” of citrus and spice flavour into the olives without the need for olive oil. Using this preservation technique, which eliminates the need for pasteurisation or heat treatment, it has created seven recipes using a mix of stoned and whole olives.

The company has also delisted its products from wholesalers and is now dealing directly with the trade – a decision which it says will enable it to keep its prices down. Trade price is £19.74 for a case of 6 x 270g, with a MOQ of £75 for free delivery. RRP £5.50. olivesetal.co.uk

Seedy Thyme, the snack brand founded by two sisters on a mission to redefine snacking, has rebranded as Seedy Snacks and is sporting a new look and new packaging as it gears up to break into the retail trade.

Seeds are trending in the snacking space, owing to their ability to help bridge the gap between health and indulgence. Seedy Snacks is looking to do exactly this, with grain-free, gluten-free, plant-based seeded crackers that are said to be “meticulously crafted to satisfy both taste buds and health goals” and feature globally inspired flavours such as Rosemary & Za’atar and Chilli & Lime in 100g ambient pouches.

The producer says the revamp comes at a time when it is looking to transition from being a product that is just sold at weekend markets and festivals to one that is on shelf in delis, food halls and farm shops. Wholesale price £3.50; RRP £5.25. seedysnacks.co.uk

The Oink Company has elevated the pork scratching to luxury status with a new hand-cooked truffle flavoured pork crackling. The Lincoln producer describes the flavour as a fusion of truffle essence, subtle garlic and aromatic rosemary. Each piece is double-cooked for maximum crispness and flavour. Stockists include John Lewis, where the 180g tub retails at £9.95. Trade price is £5.90.

theoinkcompany.co.uk

Clearspring’s Organic Seaveg Crispies have gone trayless, a move that the company says will eliminate almost five million plastic trays each year, the equivalent of nearly 18 tonnes of waste. The toasted nori snacks have also been treated to a design refresh that will make the individual flavours – Original, Chilli, Ginger and Turmeric –easier to spot on shop shelves.

clearspring.co.uk

Joe & Seph drew inspiration from the cake counter for its latest limited edition launch. The four flavours are Peanut Butter Blondie, Chocolate Fudge Cake, Millionaire’s Shortbread and Birthday Cake. RRP £4 for 70g. joeandsephs.co.uk

Bouillon brand Marigold Health Foods has entered the snacking space with a yeast-enriched popcorn that promises to bring a “new healthy twist to snacking”. Popcorn Plus is coated with Marigold’s Engevita nutritional yeast (nooch), which not only gives it a cheesy flavour but also delivers a healthy dose of vitamins B12 and D. It is also vegan-friendly, glutenfree and high in fibre. marigoldhealthfoods. co.uk

Protermars is using novel air-drying technology to produce meat crisps with an 85% protein content. Chicken breasts, pork loin and beef topside are dried and seasoned, resulting in a crispy meat snack that will appeal to those on low carb, keto and glutenfree diets as well as active consumers looking to up their protein intake. Trade price £1.50 for 25g. RRP £2.70-3.20. protermars-snacks.co.uk

Forest Feast has chosen a timeless combination for its latest creation: Valencia Orange Milk Chocolate Dipped Almonds. Roasted almonds are coated with Belgian milk chocolate and a squeeze of orange, producing a “creamy, zesty treat”. RRP £3.20 for 120g. forestfeast.com

Made For Drink has built on Spanish ties forged during the creation of its Chorizo Thins to develop its own take on the pork scratching. Designed to pair with a light-bodied Cerveza lager, Pork Chicharrones are made from Iberian pork rind that is cooked twice, the second time at a higher temperature to produce an airy, melty texture. madefordrink.com

The Protein Ball Co is rolling out two new vegan flavours. Salted Caramel combines roasted nut butter, dates, pink Himalayan salt and a dusting of almond nibs, while Choc Chip Muffin is a blend of cacao nibs, peanut butter and glutenfree oats. Each 45g bag contains six protein balls, with added vitamins B12, C and D3. RRP £1.99 a bag.

theproteinballco.com

Mindful eating is trending and Heartfull’s indulgent nut snacks are on the money. The Smoked Rosemary Almonds are flavoured with cold-pressed, oak-smoked rapeseed oil and dried rosemary. RRP £2.75 for 40g. heartfull.london

33 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
>>

>> jams & preserves

Frutteto Italia is bringing a healthier marmalade option to the breakfast table, with a recipe that harnesses the natural sweetness of fruit rather than relying on the addition of refined sugar.

According to the company’s owner, Rebecca Ravera, a 60:40 sugar-to-fruit ratio is commonplace for marmalades.

“Most marmalades are made with more sugar than fruit, despite ever-increasing rates of diabetes and growing awareness of the need to reduce the level of sugar in our diets,” she says.

Each jar of Sicilian Orange & Mango organic fruit spread is made with 100g of orange and mango per 100g of product. Ravera says this is double the amount of most marmalades, which are made from 40g of orange per 100g.

Unusually, the oranges are cooked whole, resulting in a brightly coloured thick texture and zesty taste. As mango is naturally sweet, only a dash of grape juice is added. RRP is £4.25 for 250g. fruttetoitalia.com

Thursday Cottage is seeking new listings for its new Toffee Apple Curd, which it launched in November and is so far mainly being sold via the producer’s website and its jam shop in Essex.

Inspired by old fashioned sweet and sticky bonfire toffee apples, this Great Taste 3-star winning curd is made from apple concentrate, sugar, fresh pasteurised free-range eggs and country butter. The ingredients are slowly mixed in curd kettles, producing a smooth curd that can be spooned into the filling of fruit crumbles, tarts and pies or swirled through ice cream or yoghurt.

RRP is £4.10 for 310g; trade price is £18.50 for a case of six jars. Minimum order quantity for buying direct is £300 – split across the producer’s jams, marmalades, curds and spreads. thursday-cottage.com

Christine Marshall has only been beekeeping since 2020 but already has ambitions for her business, Marshall Beekeeping, to become Northern Ireland’s largest honey provider. The producer’s lightly filtered Northern Irish Honey, which is collected from bees that forage on flowers in Northern Ireland, is said to lock in all the natural goodness of honey. RRP is £8 for 227g; trade price £5. marshallbeekeeping. squarespace.com

Oxfordshire producer Winnie’s Original says its new Pineapple Jam will transport the tastebuds to a tropical paradise, with its intensely sweet pineapple flavour and hints of nutmeg. Inspired by founder Don Martin’s Caribbean heritage, this small-batch jam can brighten up morning toast, soft cheese or rice pudding. Wholesale price is £3.38; RRP £6.50-7.50. winniesoriginal.co.uk

ManiLife has ventured beyond peanut butter with the launch of two almond butter lines. The company says it tasted over 15 almond varieties from four different countries before finding the best one in Portugal. The almonds are roasted “low and slow” to deliver a “smooth, sweet and intensely nutty” experience. Both the Smooth and Sweet varieties have a trade price of £3.95 for 160g. mani-life.com

A belief in the importance of making healthier choices without sacrificing taste is the driving principle behind all of Daily Bites’ granolas and jams, and its latest introduction, Sour Cherry Jam, is no exception. The jam, which is said to capture the essence of sour cherries, uses organic fruit from Turkey to deliver tangy-sweet flavour without the addition of sugar. Trade price is £3; RRP is £4.85. dailybitess.com

Slather on sesame bagels

Following customer protests about Everything Bagel Peanut Butter only being available as a limited edition, Devon-based Butter Bike has made this variety a permanent fixture in its core range. Naturally sweet hi-oleic peanuts are seasoned with flaked salt, cracked black pepper, toasted seeds, onion and garlic, producing an “adventurous but uncomplicated” butter designed to be slathered on sesame bagels and topped with bacon, eggs or smashed avocado. Case price £23.70 for 6 x 285g jars. RRP £6.25. butterbike.co.uk

in

With an RRP of £3.95, the jam is stocked by the likes of Hodgehill Farm Shop, Hopley’s Farm Shop and Crowle Community Shop. bewdston.com

34 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
Co Louth producer Tastees predicts its new Cranberry & Orange Jam will prove popular around Easter. Recommended as a toast topper or cheese board accompaniment, the jam is made from locally sourced cranberries and has an RRP of £3.95 for a 190g jar and a wholesale price of £2.95. tasteeshandmade.com Bristol producer GingerBeard’s Preserves has captured the flavours of autumn in its Blackberry & Apple Jam. Packed full of seasonal fruit, it’s great for spreading on buttered toast. Released the autumn, the jam is still available wholesale for £2.25 a jar; RRP £4. gingerbeardspreserves. co.uk Chuckleberry – a hybrid of redcurrant, gooseberry and jostaberry – is the flavour of Worcestershire producer Bewdston Preserves’ latest release.
Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 35 Embe ish wi Relish WWW.HAWKSHEADRELISH.COM tel: 01722 580166 sales@naturally-spanish.com www.naturally-spanish.com Contact Daniel for catalogue and prices. UK distributors of the must-have Torres Crisps and more. C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Naturally Spanish Half page ad OUTPUT.pdf 1 28/05/2021 09:36

jams & preserves

A sweet journey through time and tradition

Created by Brightonbased chef and burlesque fan Romi Alford, Lulu’s Black Market is a new brand paying homage to tradition while embracing contemporary flavours. Inspired by 1940s recipes, its preserves champion the wartime ‘dig for victory’, ‘make do and mend’ ethos through sustainable production processes.

Captain Manwaring’s Marmalade is a tribute to the valiant WW2 fighter pilot, with a timeless blend of mandarin oranges, sugar and lemons. Trade price £2.97 for 190ml; RRP £4.95.

lulusblackmarket.com

Mary Wilkinson (aka Mary’s Marmalade) has created a new Scotch Whisky Seville Marmalade that has gone down well with her customers. Mary makes Seville marmalade from oranges, lemon juice and sugar in her London kitchen. Wholesale price is £2.85 for 284g and stockists include Panzer’s Delicatessen, Earth Natural Foods, MacFarlane’s Deli and Two Peas in a Pod. marysmarmalade.co.uk

Orieshock is a new Slovakian brand of spreads that caters for vegans and those following lactose- and gluten-free diets. Products include Hazelnut Orieshock with Dark Belgian Chocolate, 100% Pistachio Orieshock and Pistachio Orieshock with White Belgian Chocolate. They are stocked by Yeme and have RRPs in the region of €12-15. Trade prices range from €6-9. orieshock.eu

The Artisan Kitchen has announced two additions to its line-up for 2024.

The first is Negroni Marmalade – a fusion of Seville oranges and the classic cocktail. The second is Pink Grapefruit Marmalade, said to be brimming with fruity citrus flavour. Both artisancrafted marmalades are available for wholesale purchase in cases of 6 x 200g directly from the Gloucester producer. theartisankitchen.co.uk

My Vegan Dulce de Leche de Coconut is now available in gift boxes in two or three jar sets. The two-pack has a trade price of £13.90 (RRP £19.50) and the threepack has a trade price of £19.50 (RRP £26.50). My Vegan Dulce de Leche de Coconut is a plant-based alternative to the popular Argentinian caramel spread traditionally made with dairy. myvegandulcedeleche. com

Few jams are as versatile as Ouse Valley Foods’ new Stem Ginger Jam, which is just as at home on toast as it is glazing pork and poultry. This “unusual conserve with crisp chunks of warming stem ginger” has a trade price of £3.45 per jar and an RRP of £4.95. It is available to order direct as well as via Infinity Foods and Love 4 Local. ousevalleyfoods.com

Ewelina’s Home Pantry, a preserves start-up located in the New Forest, has developed three new marmalades that offer a creative twist on straight citrus. Lemon & Rosemary Marmalade, Lemon & Green Tea Marmalade and Sweet Orange & Spicy Chai Tea Marmalade all have a wholesale price of £3.80 and an RRP of £5 per 260g jar. At present they are only listed locally. ehp.webador.com

Since taking over The Proper Marmalade Company, Alex McWilliam-Brice has re-introduced several unusual recipes that hadn’t been made for a while. These include Blood Orange & Espresso and Blood Orange & Black Pepper ‘Improper’ Marmalades. thepropermarmalade company.co.uk

Word of the chuckleberry has spread to Hertfordshire and Essex, where Chuckleberry Jam made by Stanhope Preserves is on sale in delis, farm shops and garden centres. Great Taste judges awarded the deep flavoured jam two stars, praising its ruby red colour, refreshing “zippy” acidity and vibrant rich fruitiness. Wholesale price £11.70 for a case of six. RRP £5.50.

stanhopegifts.co.uk

Forest Fresh Honey from Western Australia is set to launch a brand-new range, available to UK buyers. The Jarrah honey infused range combines quality Jarrah honey with natural superfoods to create a line-up that delivers both taste and health benefits. Varieties include Truffle, Ginseng and Cinnamon & Kakadu Plum.

forestfreshhoney.com.au

ingredient in Essence Botanicals’ new conserve. The Norfolk producer, who takes inspiration from botanicals says that with 32% added sugar, the recipe strikes a pleasing balance of sweet and sour. Trade price, £2.70; RRP £3.90. essencefoods.co.uk

36 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
Navarino Icons Organic Fig Marmalade is made according to a Messinian recipe using organic fresh figs gathered by hand in August and September. Preservative-free and produced in small batches, it can be enjoyed with soft white cheese, Greek yogurt and ice cream. RRP is 12.70€ for 330g. grekaicons.gr Tastes of the Mediterranean has put its own twist on a classic strawberry jam with the addition of rosewater. It says Strawberry & Rosewater Jam is the perfect addition to a cream tea, Victoria sandwich or morning toast. Trade price is £3.15 for a 200g jar; RRP £4.20. tastesofthemed.co.uk Hertfordshire producer Saucy Sisters has added a touch of opulence to everyday marmalade with a limited edition Marc de Champagne flavour. Against a zesty backdrop of tangerine, this is said to create a “harmonious fusion of fruitiness and elegance”. RRP £6 for 230g. saucysisters.co.uk UK-grown sour cherries are the star
Vol.25 Issue 2 Stock Burts today 0800 023 7404 DISCOVER BURTS

Northern Ireland. Bringing our world-class food and drink to your table.

Over 100 years ago Northern Ireland introduced whiskey to the world and now our distillers and craft brewers are in the midst of a vibrant renaissance. Over the last decade, our drinks sector has become one of the region’s most dynamic, innovative and export-driven industries. Our drinks producers are winning awards across the globe, driving buoyant sales at home and abroad and our buzzing visitor centres and tap rooms are enticing tourists into cities, towns and villages across the four corners of our beautiful country.

Northern Ireland is now home to over 20 distilleries and breweries producing single malt, pot still and blended Irish whiskeys, gin, poitin, vodka, rum, craft beer, cider and hard seltzers. From Old Bushmills Distillery, the world’s oldest licensed distillery, to innovative newcomers including Hinch, Echlinville, McConnells, Rademon, Killowen, Copeland and Boatyard you can be sure of Pure, Natural, Quality drinks and a warm welcome. Slainte!

For more information on Northern Ireland’s wide range of quality and innovative food and drink products, contact Michelle Charrington, T: 07817 173 514 E: michelle.charrington@investni.com

Northern Ireland. Altogether more.

Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 35
Image courtesy of the Irish Whiskey Association

Raise a Glass to Northern Ireland

Echlinville Distillery

The Echlinville Distillery is Ireland’s first field-toglass distillery and the first new distillery in Northern Ireland for more than 125 years. An independent family-run distillery, Echlinville has established itself at the forefront of Ireland’s burgeoning spirits industry and is home to some of the country’s best known and respected brands including Dunville’s Irish Whiskey, Echlinville Single Estate Irish Pot Still Gin, Weavers Gin, Bán Poitín, Old Comber Whiskey and Matt D’Arcy Whiskey. A genuine farm distillery, all Echlinville’s new make spirit is distilled from barley grown, harvested and floor malted on the distillery farm. Echlinville has gained global recognition for its Dunville’s Irish Whiskey portfolio – a range of premium and ultrapremium single malts, blends and limited edition single cask whiskeys. Known as The Spirit of Belfast, Dunville’s has received worldwide acclaim for its exceptional sherry cask finishes. Winner of around 50 global awards, Dunville’s was recently named Ireland’s Best Whiskey, receiving the coveted Whiskey of The Year title at the Irish Whiskey Awards. Situated on the historic Echlinville Estate in a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Echlinville’s tours, tastings and visitor experiences attract visitors from across Ireland and the world. Contact: Stephen Magennis 62 Gransha Road, Kircubbin, Co. Down, BT22 1AJ Northern Ireland E: info@echlinville.com T: +44 (0)28 4273 8597 W: echlinville.com

McConnell’s Irish Whiskey

McConnell’s Irish Whisky is a brand that dates back to 1776 and thanks to its relaunch by Belfast Distillery Company, it is once again finding great success across the city of Belfast and across Northern Ireland.

McConnell’s 5-Year-Old

Irish Whisky and McConnell’s Sherry Cask Finish are winning international awards and building the profile of their portfolio in global spirits markets. McConnell’s Distillery & Visitor Experience Crumlin Road Gaol is one of Belfast’s most historic buildings, dating back to the mid 1800’s and their plan is to build a fully operational distillery and visitor experience within this listed building. When opened the new distillery will extend over three floors o ering 1,000 sq. m. of distilling floor-space and 1,700 sq. m. for the visitor experience. They will have capacity to distil 500,000 litres of pure alcohol every year and welcome over 100,000 visitors. J&J McConnell’s Distillery and Visitor Experience will be a unique destination for visitors from near and far, providing a state-of-the-art distillery with an unbelievable whisky experience and becoming the home of McConnell’s Irish Whisky – almost 250 years after the brand was first born in Belfast. Contact: Sarah Kennedy 385 Springfield Road, Forthriver Business Park, Belfast, Co. Antrim, BT12 7DG Northern Ireland

E: info@belfastdistillery.com T: +44 (0)28 9590 2929

W: mcconnellsirishwhisky.com

Titanic Distillers

Titanic Distillers Premium Irish Whiskey launched into the market in 2021 winning distribution in key influencer accounts such as Bittles Bar, The Duke of York, The Dark Horse and The Hasting’s Hotel Group, before announcing an all-Ireland distribution deal with United Wines which has driven further distribution for the brand across the entire Island of Ireland. Following on from that success, this year promises to be huge for Titanic Distillers. Not only has the company secured one of the most globally recognised brand names, but it is also based in the famous Titanic Quarter of Belfast and has converted the historic Thompson Graving Dock and Pumphouse into a new distillery. A listed building in the heart of Belfast’s Titanic Quarter, the Pumphouse, along with its neighbouring Thompson Graving Dry Dock, first opened in 1911, was designed to accommodate the mammoth White Star Liner, RMS Titanic. Now over one hundred years later, Titanic Distillers have converted the site into a working distillery and world-class visitor attraction. Titanic Distillers is inspired by the people who worked in Belfast’s shipyard more than a century ago - and now tourists will be able to walk in their footsteps in the very pump-house and dry dock that represent such an authentic part of the Titanic story and indeed the history of Belfast. Contact: Stephen Symington Titanic Distillers at Thompson’s Dock, Queen’s Road, Belfast, Co. Antrim, BT3 9DT Northern Ireland

E: stephen.symington@titanicdistillers.com W: titanicdistillers.com

Two Stacks

Blending the very best of contemporary Irish flavour with real distilling heritage, Two Stacks is at the forefront of Ireland’s Whiskey revival. Founded in 2020 by Shane McCarthy, Liam Brogan & Donal McLynn, Two Stacks was inspired by age-old traditions and contemporary brands. Two Stacks opened one of Ireland’s only independent bonding & blending facilities in 2022. Their unique approach to working with some of Ireland’s leading distilleries; selecting the finest spirit distilled across the Island allows them to create incredible expressions of whiskey never crafted nor tasted before. The Two Stacks Polaris Collection connects with loyal followers at home and abroad. As a bi-annual release, it is the only expression sold exclusively from the Two Stacks website. Crafted with great care, and attention to detail with each bottle hand numbered, labelled and wax dipped. They encourage every Polaris collector to open, enjoy and explore the wonders of Two Stacks whiskey. Limited Releases include Two Stacks Sauternes

Cask: Their unique 5 part blended whiskey packed full of rich oils, soft spice, and mouthcoating texture is given a further 90 days in a 225L French Oak ex-sauternes cask. Contact: Shane McCarthy 59 Chancellors Road, Newry, Co. Down, BT35 8PX Northern Ireland

E: whiskey@twostackswhiskey.com T: +44 (0)28 9544 2212

W: www.twostackswhisky.com

Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 35
Brought to you by Invest Northern Ireland. www.buynifood.com
Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 35 Meet over 40 leading Australian food and beverage companies showcasing a wide range of uniquely Australian products at IFE 2024. Try some of our premium wines, spirits and no/low alcohol varieties, sustainably sourced meat, native Australian honeys, innovative packaged food, and wild-caught Australian seafood. www.austrade.gov.au london@austrade.gov.au Australia is overflowing with premium food & beverages We want to share it with you! IFE 2024 STAND 3611 & 3631

IFE, part of Food, Drink & Hospitality Week, returns to ExCeL London on 25th-27th March, with a host of new products, industry insights and networking opportunities

Six reasons to visit… ...IFE 2024

1

Decades at the forefront

For more than 45 years, IFE has been trusted by retailers, wholesalers and hospitality professionals to showcase the products and trends that will de ne the future of food & drink. With over 1,500 suppliers taking part and more than 27,000 industry professionals expected to attend, why wouldn’t you join them?

4

Insightful debates

The Future Food Stage at IFE will feature industry leaders discussing the most important topics in food & drink, including sustainability, emerging trends, and retail strategies. Plus, this year’s event will include a full day of content curated by the team at IGD.

Discover innovation

The Startup Market and New Products Tasting Theatre are central to IFE, highlighting emerging start-up brands and plenty of the latest innovations in food & drink.

2 5

A global showcase

With exhibitors from over 50 countries, IFE 2024 is a global marketplace. It provides an unparalleled opportunity to explore international avours and forge worldwide connections.

Diversity on show

This year’s edition of IFE will include 14 distinct food & drink zones, with 2024 additions including the Cheese Pavilion, the Hot Beverages Pavilion and the Fresh Produce Section, in partnership with the Fresh Produce Consortium.

3 6

Experience hospitality

In case one show wasn’t enough, IFE takes place alongside IFE Manufacturing, The Pub Show, HRC and historic chef competition International Salon Culinaire as part of Food, Drink & Hospitality Week.

Register for your complimentary trade ticket at ife.co.uk

Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 41
SHOW PREVIEW
March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 42 Informing, inspiring and connecting the industry Where the specialist retail sector meets Farm Shop & Deli Show will return to the NEC, Birmingham from the 29 April - 01 May 2024, as part of the UK Food & Drink Shows. The must-attend event unites Farm Shop & Deli Show, Food & Drink Expo, National Convenience Show, The Forecourt Show and The Restaurant Show under one roof, giving food and drink professionals 2024’s most comprehensive snapshot of the latest products, key insights and developments across multiple industries. This is a trade event. No under 18s will be admitted. Register free at: farmshopanddelishow.co.uk DOORS OPEN NEXT MONTH 29/01/2024 11:12 Organic Range! new Come try our range! Stand L30 always organic family-run since 1992 500+ products winner of 32 Great Taste Awards Visit us at www.biona.co.uk

TARTE FINE OF BEETROOT & GOATS’ CHEESE FROM THE DELI KITCHEN

Beetroot and goats’ cheese are a match made in heaven. A tarte like this not only tastes really good, it also looks great. Serve with a simple green salad for lunch or in smaller, snack-sized squares.

Makes 4 portions, multiply as required

Ingredients:

300g puff pastry, rolled into a rectangle

800g raw beetroot

150g goats’ cheese, such as Kidderton Ash

1 onion, peeled and diced

1 tbsp olive oil, plus more for cooking and drizzling

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

Salt and pepper

1 egg, beaten for glazing

Method:

• Preheat the oven to 200°C | 180°C (fan) | gas mark 6.

• Rub the beetroot with olive oil, season well with salt and pepper, wrap tightly in foil and bake until tender. Timing will depend on the size of the beetroot but 200g beetroots will take at least 50 minutes.

• Set aside to rest until just warm, unwrap, trim the top and bottom, peel and cut into rough 1cm dice. This should yield about 750g.

• Add a tablespoon of olive oil to a heavy based pan and cook the onion over a medium heat for 5 minutes, seasoning well. Remove from the heat, add the balsamic vinegar and set aside to cool. Mix in the beetroot.

• Prick all but a 1cm band around the age of the puff pastry with a fork to prevent it from rising leaving.

• Egg-wash the pastry with a brush and blind bake for 7 minutes. Let it cool slightly before layering the beets and onion on top, leaving the 1cm around the edge clear.

• Brush the edge with eggwash again and bake for 20-25 minutes.

• Dice the cheese and add to the tart after 10 minutes. Check after a further 10 minutes and if it requires a little more cooking, that shouldn’t be more than 5 minutes.

• When cooked, remove from the oven, leave to cool for 5 minutes, drizzle with a little olive oil and serve.

FOODSERVICE

PACKAGING & INGREDIENTS

Addressing concerns over the sustainability of singleuse plastics, Wrapmaster has introduced two new products: The Compostable Cling Film and PE Recyclable Cling Film. The former is biodegradable, meaning it can be disposed of in a food waste composter, in a home composting environment or collected for industrial composting. Both are fridge and freezer safe; and plasticizer, BPA, phthalate and PVC Free. The recyclable cling film is also microwave safe. wrapmaster.global/en

Bling Ingredients has expanded its range of ‘bake from frozen’ cookie dough chunks with a new choc chip vegan option. Available in a range of flavours, the chunks can be baked straight from the freezer, microwaved or even eaten raw. 18kg bulk catering packs produce around 180 desserts.  blingingredients.com

Foodservice operators can now buy renewable and compostable items from Tri-Star Packaging

The Sustain range of cups, takeaway boxes and plates is EN13432 certified, commercially compostable and home compostable in 12 weeks. Cutlery, stirrers, paper straws and wooden boats are made from FSC certified materials. tri-star.co.uk

43
March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 44 Stands 3651 & 3671 at IFE 2024 Taste France at IFE SINCE 2007 GLASS JARS & BOTTLES CLOSURES WORLDWIDE GLASS SUPPLIER We are a leading global distributor of glass packaging, providing a range of innovative solutions for the food, drink, and cosmetics industries. EVER EXPANDING RANGE WITH STANDARD & BESPOKE SOLUTIONS With over 200 unique jars and bottles available, our carefully crafted range will help match your product with the right glass container no matter the industry. TWIST OFF CAPS & CORK STOPPERS Every container deserves the right closure, and our selection of standard caps can offer just that, from cork stoppers to crown caps, twist off, ROPP and GPI. Our in-house design team can help offer a fully customised option for all closures. GRIMSBY +44 (0)1472 340005 www.pattesonsglass.co.uk sales@pattesonsglass.co.uk ENQUIRE TODAY & JOIN OUR STORY Stand Q290

MEET THE PRODUCER

One olive at a time

Two Fields co-founder Will Rolph never imagined that he and his brother Harry would become olive farmers, let alone start an organic and regenerative farming movement on the Eastern coast of Crete. And yet, they have.

What’s the story behind Two Fields, how did it come about?

In 2013 we went on a family holiday to a tiny village called Zakros in Eastern Crete; it has about 500 inhabitants, it’s a beautiful, small, rural farming community.

One day we went to the only restaurant in the village, and my brother Harry [pictured right] fell in love with the waitress. So he moved to Zakros to be with her, and got involved in olive growing, because that’s the industry there.

I was at university at the time, so I spent my summers with them. We fell for this place that has had an olive cra that’s been passed down generations. And then we tasted the oil, which was incredible.

But as we became part of the community, we saw the tough reality – the fact that the price of oil uctuates on the commodity market, in a system that was answering all questions with chemicals and conventional farming. We saw what that was doing to the land, and to the people.

We learned a lot from my brother’s fatherin-law, Jiannis, and by 2015 we’d also started learning about the soil, microbiology and what would now be called regenerative farming. We saved our money and we became apprentices to local farmers. We bought two elds, 200 olive trees, two acres. We started learning the cra and the idea of reconnecting it to nature, learning from the organic community and then self-teaching regenerative practices.

We try and run our business on the simple premise that we want to work with people we really connect with.

How did you go from there to selling olive oil in the UK?

When I was still at uni, we brought a thousand bottles over to the UK. They sold out. The year a er we brought over two pallets and they sold out. The year a er we brought three pallets. We were building this little business and things were going well, then very unexpectedly, three years ago, Jiannis passed away. It came out of the blue and it was a very di cult time. It made us re ect on a lot of things.

We realised we had created this little system that worked and that we needed to give other people the chance to be part of it. So we started a community collective, which is a system to allow farmers to buy into organic practices.

How we do it is we make sure we give farmers fair, secure livelihoods, we help them transition away from conventional to organic, then build regenerative on top. We’ll say, “if you meet the standards of how we want to farm, then we guarantee you that we’ll buy your oil every year”.

Has it been a difficult year, in light of the issues affecting olives crops around the world?

This year and last year have been incredibly di cult. There’s global olive oil shortages. Europe is in crisis. Yields are down 50% in Spain, 60% in Greece in some areas. And we’ve felt that. We were in wild re risk, we had about 50% of the rainfall we would have hoped for, so it’s very di cult to grow olives. That chaos also changes the market. Organic and regenerative is not valued as much because oil is in such demand and short supply, any oil will do for most people. But that’s just not how we operate.

Aside from your flagship olive oil, are you working on any other projects at the moment?

We have other projects: we harvest, hand-pick and forage wild oregano; we made soap last year; if you have 1000 litres of olive oil in a tank, as sediment settles, the last 3% can’t be used, so we’ve been taking that waste and turning it into soap. We’re trying to explore

how we diversify a little bit as a business, but also how we do creative projects. We have some exciting collaborations in the pipeline which we can’t wait to share.

But to be completely honest, we’re still deep in the post-harvest phase right now, and it’s been the hardest year we’ve ever had, so that’s being delayed. We have to get through this and then we’ll breathe and we have these other things bubbling along.

Can indie retailers get their hands on some of your products?

Yes, we’re just about to launch our new batch. We did an early harvest, which is where you pick your olives early and get a more bitter, more peppery, greener, ery oil.

The last couple of years have been really chef-focused and that’s been really amazing – we work with The Pig Hotel, Manteca, Rochelle Cantine, Spring in Somerset House, Toklas. We have direct relationships with chefs who really want to champion producers. We’ve also got a couple of amazing events coming up.

But we really want to nd some more amazing independent retailers who champion producers and really curate products.

We try and run our business on the simple premise that we want to work with people we really connect with. The kind you can have a co ee or a beer with and build a friendship with. A lot of my job is about nurturing relationships and that gives me great joy. twofieldszakros.com

45 Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024
March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 46 #JOINTHEREGENREVOLUTION firstmilk.co.uk goldenhooves.co.uk NEW Award-winning, 100% regenerative cheeses 2022 Supreme Champion, Global Cheese Awards, 2023 WINNER - New Product of the Year, Speciality & Fine Food Fair 2024 ‘Top 200 Ethical Brands’ - The Good Shopping Guide That’s got our stomp of approval! Our full range of cheeses are available in 200g & 2.5kg packs. Mature, Vintage, Red Leicester* & Smoked Cheddar* Available through Blas ar Fwyd, Castell Howell, Caws Cymru, Cress Co, Curd & Cure, Longman’s and Rowcliffe. *available from 22/4/24 Delivering ambient, chilled and frozen products to retailers across the UK ambient, chilled and frozen across By partnering with us, you are making a di erence to people’s lives and having a positive impact on the planet. Visit our website to find new products, latest o ers and lowest prices: www.cotswold-fayre.co.uk lives UK

PRODUCTS & MERCHANDISING

Fieldfare broadens o ering with sweet and savoury additions

Fieldfare has introduced a ra of new products to kick o the year, consisting of three desserts and three savoury dishes.

The rst sweet item is a classic French Apple Tart, which consists of 14cm-wide layered caramelised apple slices on a pu pastry base, retailing at £3.99 apiece. Joining it are lightly battered Golden Apple Fritters (RRP 55p apiece), which managing director MattWhelan told FFD “are fantastic with a sprinkle of cinnamon or a little sugar”, to be eaten at breakfast, brunch or as a dessert.

Meanwhile, 160g portions of Fruits of the Forest Strudel – joining their apple-based counterpart – encase blueberries, redcurrants, blackberries, raspberries, sour cherries and apple in a thin, all-butter pastry (RRP £2.49).

On the savoury side, the rst addition is Crispy Calamari Rings (pictured right) –classically prepared squid rings coated in panko breadcrumbs, given an RRP of £2.20 per 100g. Then comes the Fieldfare Chicken Schnitzel, a take on the Viennese classic with chicken breast instead of pork, for £3.49 apiece. This is also coated in panko breadcrumbs, “so both this and the calamari get really crispy in the oven, in contrast with the delicate, tender chicken or calamari”, Whelan said.

Finally, Herby Parmentier potatoes are back a er a brief hiatus due to a supplier change. Whelan said the cubes of potato, coated with garlic, basil and parsley, make an excellent side in the warmer months – for example, paired with a

Nojō has given its sauces a refreshed look, which it says will enhance the product’s shelf presence and align with evolving consumer preferences for striking, informative packaging. The range includes White Miso Cooking Sauce; Teriyaki Stir Fry Sauce; Sesame Stir Fry Sauce; Yuzu Ponzu Dressing and Orange Poké Dressing. All are gluten free, vegan, with no additives or artificial flavours. They are made with what the producer says are the highest quality, sustainably sourced ingredients.

nojolondon.co.uk

salad and a tart, or with a barbecue. The potatoes have an RRP of 58p per 100g.

This was the rst of several rounds of NPD planned by the frozen food supplier this year. The next should come in the second half of 2024. Whelan told FFD that by diversifying its portfolio, the company hopes to appeal to consumers indulging at home rather than eating out, by giving them more choice.

“Our o er is really useful for those people that just want fewer than a pack of four. We’ve been very aware of that in our target market,” he said. The amount of e ort to prepare dishes is also a factor, he added, as “you just wouldn’t get around to making certain things for one”. field-fare.com

WHAT’S TRENDING

1 Big reusable cups

You might have seen the recent hoo-ha over in the US about the oversized Quencher cup from tool brand Stanley. From new colour releases selling on eBay for thousands to large scale theft, the hype around

WHAT’S NEW

Coldpress is taking orders for its 750ml Mandarin juice bottles, introduced by the company to counteract the effects of orange shortages and supply chain pressures. The juice, as well as its natural Vitamin C and antioxidant phytochemicals, has added B, D and E Vitamins to boost the drink’s baseline nutritional value. coldpress.co.uk

Australia’s first certified organic, carbon neutral spirits producer Antipodes Gin is seeking distribution partners in the UK. The gin, available in its neutral form or flavoured with espresso, watermelon, or ‘pink’, is distilled using native plants, which the company says will help maintain indigenous plant species designed to grow in Australia’s harsh climate. antipodesgin.com

Cacto’s new West Coast-inspired RTD cans are the first of a series of new products to be released this year. Made with 70% puréed prickly pear juice and natural strawberry and watermelon flavours, California Dream has no added sugar, and is said to be a source of Magnesium, Potassium, Vitamin C and Fibre. £15 RRP for 6 cans and £27.30 for 12. cactodrinks.com

this cup is unheard of in the category. Forbes reports that Stanley’s annual sales jumped from $75m to $750m in 2023. The cups usually retail for around £45 and have been joined by other high performance insulated drink vessels from brands like Yeti and Hydroflask, both now available in the UK.

2 Tamarind

The sweet and sour rewards of tamarind are worth paying attention to this year. US spice and seasoning brand McCormick will be partnering with an American food chain to put it on menus – in milkshakes, burgers and on fries. Closer to home, London’s Fatt Pundit has garnered a lot of attention for its tamarind glazed potatoes.

3 Boosted coffee Coffee has long been a dynamic and flexible mainstay for foodservice. As consumers move away from the simple espresso / black coffee /white coffee orders, there’s a whole plethora of options to choose from, whether it’s stirring in seasonal spice syrups, or frappa-ing them up.

The latest trend is boosting your coffee with healthy additives. At Starbucks, you can order an Oleato, a coffee that’s been enriched with a hit of olive oil, while across London you can have your latte supplemented with anything from chickpeas to ashwaganda or mushrooms. It comes with the continued rise in appreciation for socalled ‘functional’ foods, with brands like Dirtea, London Nootropics and Form leading the charge.

47
March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
3 2 1

WHAT’S NEW

Soho’s Sri Lankan and South Indian restaurant, Hoppers, has introduced a retail range of spice blends. The Curry Powder, the Unroasted Curry Powder and the Jaffna Curry Powder can be used as rubs, in marinades or in curries, and form the basis of recipes served at the celebrated restaurant. RRP £15 for three 60g jars. hoppers.co.uk

My magic ingredient

Santa Catarina –Tuna Fillets with Chimichurri

Following on the introduction of its legume mash and pasta products, Japanese plantbased producer ZenB is looking for stockists for its new yellow pea noodles. The producer says the gluten-free, allergen-free riff on classic thin noodles are nutritionally dense and don’t compromise on texture or flavour. The 240g packs four 80g portions) retail at £5. zenb.co.uk

These have earned a prime spot on my shelves and in my kitchen cupboards. Tinned fish is all the rage these days, and this particular product ticks all the boxes. It’s environmentally friendly, it saves me time on cooking, and it’s incredibly tasty.

Coco Chocolatier’s 2024 catalogue showcases a new host of artists including Peruvian designer and illustrator, Blumoo, featured namely on a Sweet Mint dark chocolate bar; a Salt & Pepper Caramel bar; and Salted Caramel Chickpeas. Limited edition bars celebrate Emma Stone’s lead character in the Yorgos Lanthimos film Poor Thing. cocochocolatier.com

These premium tuna fillets marinated in a zesty chimichurri sauce are really versatile, they’re great as an ingredient or as a quick snack. For a quick nutritious meal, I dollop some onto a slice of toasted sourdough with a scattering of something crunchy like cucumber, quick-pickled onions or a seed mix, and voilà. It’s my go-to when time is of the essence, with the added benefit that it doesn’t feel like a compromise on flavour, or health.

Plus, sustainability is so important when it comes to fish. These have a much lower environmental impact than fresh or frozen does, and they’re responsibly sourced, which aligns with our customers’ values, and explains why we’re happy to stock them. atumsantacatarina.com

Booja-Booja unveils new Easter gi ing ranges

Vegan chocolate and ice cream producer BoojaBooja has introduced two new gi ing ranges: a limited edition for Easter celebrations, and another for retailers to stock year-round, both in ornately decorated packaging.

The Easter Special chocolates are Chocolate Tru e Loglets like the ones introduced by the Norfolk producer in the autumn (in Hazelnut Crunch, Salted Caramel Mocha and Chocolate Orange avours), with two new avours: Raspberry Scrunch and Chocolate Salted Caramel.

The boxes for these especially long tru es are decorated by Norfolk artist Pippa Mulvany.

The Heart Shaped boxes, meanwhile, are

handmade in Kashmir, India, by the same community of artists the producer has been working for more than 20 years.

The boxes come lled with 12 heart-shaped tru es, in either Chocolate Salted Caramel or Fine de Champagne Flavours.

The Easter Loglets are given an RRP of £9.99, and are sold in cases of 8 for £49.92 (or £6.24 each).

The Heart Gi Boxes are £27.99 RRP. They are sold in cases of 3 with a case cost of £52.47 (or £17.49 a unit).

boojabooja.com

Great as an ingredient or as a quick snack

Celebrating its 10th year in business, specialist Italian food supplier Tenuta Marmorelle has introduced a range of ownlabel products: ZERO Extra Virgin Olive Oil; a seven SKU range of Flavoured Multicoloured Farfalle; three shapes of Naturally Multicoloured Pasta; five flavours of Naturally Infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil; four flavours of Taralli; four new cannoli flavours; Wholegrain Grissini; Red Onion Flatbreads; three shapes of Hexagonal Slow Dried Bronze Drawn Pasta and Gluten Free Slow Dried, Bronze Drawn Pasta. tenutamarmorelle.com

48 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2

For

www.bellota.co.uk

Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 49
Award-Winning Cooking Chorizo
Additive Free
Free
Gluten
Natural casing
Available in 2kg catering bags or retail packs of 4 (250g)
Bellota importers of fine foods from Spain Original Biltong Signature Biltong Bloody Mary Bites www.biltongemporium.com Creators of quality handcrafted Biltong in a variety of delicious avours
more information please call: 01981 500258 or email: bellota@bellota.co.uk
March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 50 SCOTTISH WILD VENISON CHARCUTERIE
Available in retail packs and whole to slice in store enquiries 01397 712121 or info@greatglencharcuterie.com
Stand P20 on the Soil Association Pavilion at Natural & Organic Products Europe Now Available in a 1 Kg Tub for deli service and caterers Meridian Sea Limited are specialist seafood importers offering quality products, great value and a friendly service. www.meridiansea.com 01392 979251
salami - chorizo - pepperoni - smoked venison - bresaola
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SHOW PREVIEW

The long-running trade event returns to ExCeL London on 14th and 15th April, with all things healthy and wholesome on show.

Six reasons to visit… ...Natural & Organic Products Expo

1

Good health to you

Since 1997, Natural & Organic Products Expo has been the place for independent retail buyers to source the best natural, organic, plant-based, free-from and sustainable products from more than 500 di erent exhibitors.

4

Discover the newest

Many producers wait until the show to launch their new products to the market (o en via the Innovation Awards), meaning buyers will be able to discover a host of new lines for their shelves. New Launchpad zones will also allow visitors to easily nd the freshest startups.

2

Three shows in one

Previously, health & nutrition, natural & organic food and natural beauty were separate sections under one show umbrella but they are now clearly branded as Natural Food Expo, Natural Beauty Expo and Natural & Organic Products Expo.

5

Rewarding Innovation

The show will once again be looking to nd the very best new product launches via the Natural & Organic Innovation Awards. Visitors will be able to sample and vote for their favourite entrants to decide the best items in a number of categories.

3

Talking a good game

Natural & Organic Products Expo has announced that renowned retail expert Mary Portas will headline the show’s programme of speakers by delivering the keynote speech. In addition, the will also be a number of talks and discussions across the show delivered in seminar areas.

6

Festival atmosphere

Organisers Diversi ed Communications have unveiled new fresh branding for each section of the Expo, which it says will translate into a more vibrant look and feel on the oor.

Register for a free trade ticket at naturalproducts.co.uk

Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 51
Since opening in 2017, The Fleetville Larder has been going from strength to strength. This St Albans delicafé is a testament to owner Ed Bevin’s ability to strike a balance between retail and foodservice.

How to keep busy

WHENEVER THE FFD team sets o to interview a retailer, the aim is usually to avoid busier periods so the owner is free to talk and there’s space to take photos. But when I arrived at Fleetville Larder, I barely knew where to stand for the volume of customers milling around.

Not that it is a small space, spanning the ground oor of a two-level terraced house on the road to St Albans City train station. It has plenty of room for customers to peruse the shelves in the retail area, or to sit down in the café, or even on the sunny front terrace.

But for the duration of my mid-Thursday

morning visit, people come and go non-stop. Most pick up a co ee, some sit and enjoy a slice of cake, and almost no-one leaves without a hunk of cheese, a loaf of bread or a jar of something to take home.

While it may be the very picture of success, owning a bustling deli-café wasn’t what founder Ed Bevin had in mind when he set up shop in 2017.

Having worked in nance in London for 20 years, and witnessed the wine bar trend emerge, “I had the idea of a cheese shop where you could drink wine,” Bevin tells FFD, “where customers could come and pick a bottle o the shelf and enjoy it with a

charcuterie platter or a cheeseboard.”

He adds that the lack of a specialist cheesemonger in St Albans also encouraged him to pursue his retailing ambitions.

But while cheese accounts for a lot of sales at The Fleetville Larder, Bevin says it’s not enough to keep the operation a oat on its own.

“We very quickly realised that co ee and café is fundamental, because it keeps people coming in all day, every day.”

Soon a er opening, Bevin started to imagine the operation’s business model as it is today, supported by but not revolving around the café – with cheese, deli items

Number of staff: 5 part-time

Floor space: 50 square metres

Annual turnover: £250,000

Average basket spend: £25

Average margin (retail sales):

Cheese + deli: 33%

Alcohol: 27%

52 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
VITAL STATISTICS

and wine sales making up a good proportion of turnover. He also stayed open on Friday nights to make the most of the shop’s alcohol license and additional evenings for the occasional tasting or lm screening.

Three years went by without much change, but then came 2020. And, like all businesses, The Fleetville Larder evolved during the pandemic. Bevin used the temporary pause of on-site foodservice to his advantage, increasing the retail side of things.

“We went from a 75-25 café-deli split to 60-40,” he says. “It was a conscious decision. I got into this because I wanted to open a deli, not a café, and Covid was a natural chance to reduce the café slightly.”

Seizing on the opportunity of a Government grant, Bevin redesigned the shop’s website and began delivering food locally. This isn’t something he wanted to continue, though. “I’m not in a position to be doing lots of deliveries and sending items around the country. It’s quite clear [on our website] that if you order online, I deliver it.”

“I’d rather get people in. We don’t take payment over the Internet, which gives me a chance to say, ‘submit your order online’ and then I’ll call and have a dialog. So, if I haven’t got something we can replace it, etc.”

However, a divider set up between the retail area and the café stayed a er restrictions were li ed, giving extra shelf space – complemented by new oor-toceiling shelves.

“This way, you can get to the cheese counter and browse it a bit more rather than

squeeze between tables,” says Bevin.

Because it’s a commuter town, St Albans has always provided a customer base of stay-at-home parents. But now it also gets the working-from-home footfall. As a result, sandwiches and salads are a strong moneymaker.

And the café-deli divider can still be removed to make way for wine or gin tastings, or PTA meetings for the local school, or lm nights. As a general rule, “it makes things more exciting to have stu going on,” says Bevin.

They can be decent earners, too – wine tastings coordinated with local wine shop (and Bevin’s supplier) Be Vinters get people through the door for £25 a pop, and usually lead to return custom.

Being an integral part of the local community buoys the retail side of the business, not least in the product selection. There’s Camp re Gin, Farr Brewery Beer and Tiki Tonga Co ee – roasted by Bevin’s friend, and former captain of the Saracens rugby union team, Brad Barritt. Jam from Stanhope Preserves is made one street away, and The Saucy Sisters’ hot sauce selection is an ex-employee's endeavour. There are candles made by Bevin’s friend at Modern Botanicals, Hannah Sessions’ ‘Pubs of St Albans’ calendars, and copies of the Hertfordshire Cookbook.

“I’m not obsessive about everything being local as long as our stu is good”, Bevin adds.

MUST-STOCKS

White Mausu Peanut Rayu

Tracklements Sticky Fig Relish

Hawkshead Relish Raspberry & Vanilla Jam

Peter’s Yard Fig & Spelt Crackers

Snowdonia Red Storm

Cropwell Bishop Beauvale

Perello Olives

Rabitos Royale Dark Chocolate Figs

Campfire Gin

Saucy Sister Chilli Jam

Mad Squirrel beers

Tiki Tonga Coffee

Torres Black Truffle Crisps

DELI OF THE MONTH 53 Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 CONTINUED ON PAGE 54

Wholesalers supply the bulk of the stock – most comes from Cotswold Fayre, The Cress Co., and country-speci c wholesalers like Salvini and Brindisa, while cheese is from Rowcli e and Carron Lodge – but local deli items are usually delivered direct, as are baked goods and wine.

Not least because it is the only shop in town selling a wide selection of British and Continentals, cheese helps in di erent ways. Traditional o ers of hampers, Christmas pre-orders and a Cheese Cake service are supplemented by more creative ways of supplying dairy products to the locals.

The nearby school, where Bevin's kids used to go, teaches pupils about cheese with a selection made at The Fleetville Larder, for instance. And Bevin works in collaboration with St Albans Times wine writer Darren McCabe, providing him with pairings for his column.

“It costs you a cheese and a bottle of wine, but it works for everyone; he’s getting

more experience tasting wines and it works for us because we get a local write-up once a month.”

This is just part of the story, however, and Bevin says The Fleetville Larder’s success over the past seven years has also been down to its location.

“Everything has been going up [in price] in town, like parking spaces. O ces are emptier and it’s just making a lot harder to run a business,” he says. Bevin’s rent is lower than in the centre, the business is small enough to fall under the rates threshold, and, thanks to a loyal customer base, footfall has remained steady.

Having done so well so far, there’s little Bevin would change in the future. He does as much social media as he needs to, and has been named in some local awards, but with word of mouth, time and e ort, The Fleetville Larder has earned its place within the community. The business has consistently recorded good

year-on-year turnover since it opened, so it would be a gamble to rock the boat.

“I could open a second shop, but I don’t know why I would want to,” he says. “You have to invest a lot of yourself – it takes a certain amount of time to get a return on your investment and it might go wrong, you might not ever make a return.”

“I could always do more here. I could open every Friday night like I used to, or push more online,” he says, “But I spent a lot of life getting up at six in the morning to get on a train and work all day and get stressed then come back to sleep and start all over again.”

“Being here doesn’t really feel like work, I have to say. I come here and serve all my old neighbours and friends.”

And as we weave between the regulars at The Fleetville Larder, it’s plain to see that it’s not just Bevin’s happy place, but theirs, too. fleetvillelarder.com

I got into this because I wanted to open a deli, not a café, and Covid was a natural chance to reduce the café slightly
54 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2
DELI OF THE MONTH
Yep Kitchen are really heating things up in 2024!

Chilli oil, the condiment the UK can’t seem to get enough of is filling cupboards across the country. Yep Kitchen bring something really special to this booming category.

Yep’s products are favourites amongst every foodie. On a mission to showcase regional Chinese food, Yep focus on creating flavours from the Southwest provinces of Sichuan and Hunan, delivering products rarely seen in the UK. After winning multiple awards in their first year, I think it’s fair to say Yep are one to watch in 2024!

Crowdfund live until March 22 www.yepkitchen.com

Vol.25 Issue 2 | March 2024 55
Discover the taste of Skye. Our iconic Pure Sea Salt, Now with Seaweed and Smoked in March 2024 info@isleofskyeseasalt.co.uk - http://www.isleofskyeseasalt.co.uk

Since 1952 Rachel’s family pioneered in organic, using only natural methods on their farm which became the first organic dairy farm in the UK. Today Rachel’s Organic continues to be proudly made in West Wales, with local British organic milk and never any artificial ingredients. made in West with local British milk and never any artificial

March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 56 07714 493 375 | sales@angusalchemy.com Woodhill, by Carnoustie DD7 7SD WWW.ANGUSALCHEMY.COM VISIT OUR WEBSITE EXPERIENCE THE BOLD AND ADVENTUROUS FLAVOURS OF ANGUS ALCHEMY’S AWARD WINNING MOONSHINE AND GIN. CRAFTED WITH THE FINEST LOCAL INGREDIENTS AND DISTILLED TO PERFECTION IN SMALL BATCHES WITH A UNIQUE BLEND OF SCOTTISH TRADITION AND MODERN INNOVATION. AWARD WINNING SPIRITS
Great Tasting
Grow organic with
Yogurts!
Serving suggestion RACH223 Half page Fine food digest Magazine.indd 1 21/02/2024 10:23

Our offerings include the most exotic foods in the world and probably the best cakes and biscuits in the country, all freshly produced in our very own bakery. We also supply a huge range of prepacked own-label products!

Discover an exceptional array of local, national, and international
to
of the
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OF OUr IcONiC aND PReMIeR bRAnDS:
OUr IcONiC aND PReMIeR bRAnDS: 01366 381250 sales@sfea.co.uk www.sfea.co.uk
JuST A sMAlL sELeCTiON
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We provide creative solutions that optimise your supply chain, whether you’re looking for transit, shelf ready, postal or ecommerce packaging we can help.

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Expert View

Expert View

• Send press samples in for the goodie bags and press o ce

During the show,

It’s show season so here are some tips on how to make the most of these opportunities and get o to a good start to 2024. Shows can be expensive, so you need them to work hard for you to drive your sales, create a pipeline, and build your brand.

Securing your stand at a food show is an exciting step to get your brand recognised. Once the booking is made, it takes a lot or prep work and co-ordinate to ensure you make the most of the opportunities available before, during and a er the show!

With three months to go, make sure the following are planned:

• Book hotel accommodation if required

• Enter any show-speci c awards

• Start pushing out PR about any news or new launches at the show

With one month to go,

• Book drop-o and pick-up slots at the venue

• Print o exhibitor passes

With one week to go,

• Send your contacts a personal email inviting them to meet up

MODEL RETAILING

Unexpected item in the bagging area. I would advise against purchasing blue cheese and tomato chutney at the same time!

• Have fun

• Keep smiling

• Network, connect and chat with other exhibitors to share tips and advice

• Each evening, email the contacts that came to see you that day. Thank them for visiting. Share information about your o ering and how they can engage with you commercially.

A er the show,

• Follow up 1 week later, 3 weeks later, 6 weeks later, 3 months later – this is so important. Sales take time and relationships require building and nurturing.

The Ultimate Guide to Attending a Food Show is jam-packed with tips that will help your brand stand out and get noticed and it also includes a handy packing checklist, just so you don’t forget anything.

To read it in full, visit www.thefoodmarketingexperts.co.uk/areyou-show-ready

Shows can be expensive, so you need them to work hard for you to drive your sales

Setting up shop for good hygiene

Destroying bio hazards via temperature control

Applying heat to food will destroy most biological hazards. Rapid cooling of cooked food followed by refrigerated storage at 8˚C or below helps slow the growth of any remaining organisms.

A temperature of 70˚C for 2 minutes will destroy most active bacteria, viruses and parasites.

However, some bacteria can protect themselves from attack when heat is applied, by forming heat resistant spores.

Products to be stored chilled for more than 10 days must receive a heat treatment of 90˚C for 10 minutes and if ambient storage is intended, then the product must be heated to 121˚C for 3 minutes.

Any foods likely to be contaminated by parasites and intended to be served raw or lightly cooked must be frozen at -20˚C for 24 hours prior to consumption unless they come from a guaranteed parasite free source.

Other foods, such as pasteurised milk, may require refrigeration to ensure that harmful microorganisms do not grow in the product.

This advice is an excerpt from the Guild of Fine Food’s Assured Code of Practice for Deli Retailing. The guide is available in PDF format (free for Guild Members, £250+VAT for nonmembers). To request a copy of the Code, email support@gff.co.uk

SOLVING EVERYDAY SHOPKEEPING DILEMMAS. IN MINIATURE.

With

How embarrassing!

It’s “Buy two, get the third free” on these highgrade tins of anchovies. That’ll be £22, please.

What a bargain… not!

Did you know that we price-match all our items against Madame Deli’s shop round the corner?

That’s punchy!

FFD says: There are many reasons that people come to delis and farm shops. One of them is because you’re not like the supermarkets – even though they’ll compare you to them ad infinitum. Focus on customer service, driven by good old-fashioned human contact, and visitors will love you for being a space that’s free of cheap tricks and gadgets.

59 March 2024 | Vol.25 Issue 2 ADVICE
kind permission of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, Germany. PLAYMOBIL is a registered trademark of Geobra Brandstätter Stiftung & Co. KG, for which also the displayed PLAYMOBIL toy figures are protected.
56
you ’ ve got ...shows you’ve got Great
Family’s
A
Tea
...shows
Taste Taste A
Passion for Tea
Passion for
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