Worship and weave : towards Filipino liturgical vestments

Page 296

too uncommon nowadays to see a woman wearing a yellow

malong even if she does not belong to the 42 or so royal houses. We have also seen some rna long a landap in solid red called landap a mariga, or yellow color called landap a

benaning , with the tapestry-woven joinery bands providing the additional colors. As Ombawera Lawi explained to me earlier, the rna long a

landap which I wanted to buy from her was extra expensive because the adjacent colors of wide silk bands were woven together with the tobiran , and not just stitched together. This was considered a must for a good-quality landap. Even when one orders just the langkit by the yard, like the one I wanted to use as orphreys for a chasuble , the cost of the narrow tapestry weave fabric could still be quite high because the making of the langkit is considered a very advanced skill among the Maranao. Then , there is the third highly valued type , the rna long a

bagadat , which is an old style preferred by elderly datus for its dignified look. It consists of similar broad bands in contrasting colors separated by narrow bands of balud or warp ikat . Bagadat means "wave" and it refers to the banded structure of the design. An assortment of patterns is sometimes combined with ikat or tie-dye patterns. These include plaids , stripes, and checks . When mixed with tie-dye type patterns , they are called babalodan (from the root word balud) . It is interesting to note here that the use of the word balud for "ikat-dyeing" distinguishes the Maranao from their neighbors who use be-bed. Pastor-Roces who notes that the word bebed is also used as far north as the Ifugao area where binudbudan is "tie -dyed," states that be路 bed is the older word. 62

Pandi is a malang in stripes distinguished by narrow lines of usually black and white balud and is a style prefe rred by men . I was personally a bit surprised to see rna longs they call ampik which has harmonious multicolored narrow stripes and checks resembling the color scheme of the Scottish kilt. On our way back to where the car was parked, I noticed a group of men , some yo ung and two elder ly, sitti ng at leisure


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