Expanding the Brand: Brandy Melville

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Expanding the brand:

Repositioning Brandy Melville into a more inclusive high-street market and strengthening the brand equity

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Fashion Marketing

Tutor: Sarah Cooper

TABLE OF CONTENTS 0 2 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 03 INTRODUCTION 03-05 BACKGROUND OF BRANDY MELVILLE 03-04 BRANDY MELVILLE'S RISE TO POPULARITY 04 RATIONALE 05-07 ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT 05-06 LEARNING FROM ABERCROMBIE & FITCH 06 BRAND SICKNESS 07 RECOMMENDATIONS 08-10 BRAND VOICE 08 ONLINE CHANNELS 08 TREATMENT 09-10 CONCLUSION 10 APPENDIX 11-14 BIBLIOGRAPHY 15-19

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

Thebodypositivitymovementhasbecomeamajorsocialchangewhichhasaffectedthe wayconsumersshopwithinthefashionindustry(Cohenetal,2020).Businessesmustadapt theirbrandingtochangingexpectationsintermsofthegrowingneedfordiversityand representation(DeFreitasetal,2017) However,notallbrandsarewillingtodothis BrandyMelvilleisafashionbrandthatfocusesonexclusivityratherthaninclusivitywhich doesnotresonatewithmostmodern-dayconsumers(Armstrong-GibbsandMclaren, 2017).

Therefore,thisreportoffersrecommendationsforexpandingBrandyMelvilleby repositioningitintoaninclusivehigh-streetmarket,whilststrengtheningthebrandequity (Armstrong-GibbsandMclaren,2017) Itwillexploretheideaofbrandhealth(D’Arienzo, 2016)andhowBrandyMelvilleisconsideredasickbrandinneedoftreatmentaswellas howBrandyMelvillecanlearnfromitscompetitorssuchasAbercrombieandFitch.

INTRODUCTION

BACKGROUND OF BRANDY MELVILLE

BrandyMelvillewasfoundedin1970bySilvioMarsanandsonin Italy,butlateremergedintoothermarketsandbecameestablished intheUnitedStates(Fan,2021).Thebrandisknownforitscute basicsthathaveaCalifornianstyleandisnotoriousforitsonesize-fits-mostpolicy(Zhiyi,2021).BrandyMelvillewouldfitinto theexcitementbrandpersonalityasaccordingtoAaker’s(1997) personalitydimensionsitshowsspiritednessbybeingtrendyand youngthroughitsimageryonitsplatforms.ForBrandyMelville UK,itsnetcurrentassetswerejustover£2millionin2021 (Gov.UK,2021).Ithasstoresin97differentlocationswiththe majorityintheUnitedStates(BrandyMelville,n.d.)anditstarget customeristeenagewhitegirlswhohaveanectomorphbodytype (SeeappendixAforconsumerprofile).Thepricesoftheclothes areaffordableforateenagerwithlittletonoincome,asabasic tanktopsellsintheregionof£12.Thisischeaperthanthatofone ofitscompetitorsHollister,whichstocksasimilarstyleoffast fashionclothingforslightlymoremoney.

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Therefore,BrandyMelville’scurrentpositionismassmarketfashionasitsproductsareproducedinmass quantitieswithaquickturnover(Posner,2015).

BrandyMelville’sbrandvaluesarenot communicatedsufficientlytotheconsumereven thoughbrandvaluesareessentialinbuilding customerloyalty(Christopher,1996).Forexample, thereisnomissionstatementonitse-commerce websitewhichH&M,acompetitorofBrandy Melville,isdoingsuccessfully(seeappendixBand C).BrandyMelvilleisalsonotbeingtransparent aboutitsbusinesspracticesasthereisno informationonitsenvironmentalorsocialimpact. Thissuggeststhatitisnotparticipatingin corporatesocialresponsibilitywhich,accordingto theonlinesustainabilityratingsiteGoodonyou (2021),BrandyMelvilleisrated“notgoodenough”

and“weavoid”overall.ThisgoesagainstthebrandidentitymodelassuggestedbyEdwardsandDay(2005), whichadvisesbrandstofocusonfourobjectivestobrandeffectively:ideology,whichincludesbrandvalues; theconsumer;capability,andthecompetitiveenvironmentinwhichthebrandissituated.InBrandy Melville’scase,itisneglectingtheideologyofthebrandasitsethosandvaluesareunclearwhichmakesits brandstrategymisledandunfulfilled(EdwardsandDay,2005).ThisideaissupportedbyBrown(2016)as theysuggestoneofthepurposesofbrandingistolimitconsumersmisunderstandingsothatitiseasierto makeapurchasedecision.

BRANDY MELVILLE'S RISE TO POPULARITY

BrandyMelvillerosetopopularitythroughitsuniqueresponsetomarketingsegmentation,wherethe consumers(D’Arienzo,2016)whoarenotspecificallytargeted,feelthedesireandmotivationtobecomethe targetconsumer(Yan,2019).Thismaybeduetotheconsumerself-identifying(Comunale,2009)andaspiring totheBrandyGirlmodelsastheyaredepictedascoolanddistinctiveforbeingabletowearBrandyMelville clothes.Therefore,theconsumerwantstoreplicatethisfeelingbystrivingtobelikethem(Hao,2021).Another waythatBrandyMelvilledifferentiatestootherfashionbrandsisthatitdoesnotadvertiseconventionallyasit onlyusessocialmediatoconnectwithconsumers(Mansikka,2019).ItsmainchannelisInstagramwhichisa suitableplatformconsideringtheirtargetdemographicisteenagers,notonlythat,butInstagramisalso consideredasanimportantaspectoffashionmarketing(BOF,2017).ThisisbecauseInstagramallows businessestohavemoreuserengagementtobuildbrandawareness(Tuten,2020).However,therearemissed opportunitieswithBrandyMelville’sonlineonlymarketingstrategyastraditionalcommunicationscouldhelp tobroadenthereachtoexpandthebrand(Rathetal,2015;Todor,2016).

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ROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT

BrandyMelville’sbrandvoiceshouldbestrengthenedasthebrandvoicecancontributetothe developmentofbrandpersonalitieswhich,inturn,increasesbrandawareness.Forexample,Brandy Melvillecurrentlysitsintheexcitementpersonalityasitiscool,youngandtrendy(Aaker,1997). Although,duetotheissueswithtransparencyandvaguebrandvalues,itsuggeststhatBrandyMelville lackssincerity.Therefore,inordertoestablishemotionalconnectionswithconsumersandgetintouch withtheconsumer’sself-identity(Comunale,2009;Rodriguez-Moran,2019),thebrandvoicecouldbe reinforcedthroughthetoneofvoicethatiscommunicatedthroughcopywriting.BrandyMelvilledoes nothaveastrongbrandvoiceasthereisalackoftextualcommunicationonitswebsiteandsocialmedia platforms(seeappendixD).Forthatreason,thisisafactorthatshouldbeconsideredfor recommendationsofexpandingthebrand.However,brandpersonalities(Aaker,1997)maynotbe applicabletoallbrandsasitlacksgeneralisability(Austinetal,2003),also,certainbrandsmightnotfit intooneboxwhenitcomestopersonality,suggestingtherecouldbemoreoptions.Ontheotherhand, thereisevidencetosuggestthatbrandpersonalitiescanstrengthenbrandequity(FrelingandForbes, 2005)whichwouldbepositiveintermsofexpandingandrepositioningBrandyMelville.

Anotherareathatcouldbeimprovedfor BrandyMelville’sbrandingisthecontent distributiononitssocialmediachannels.A solutionforthisiscreatinganomnichannel, whichiswhereeachconsumertouchpoint offersthesamefunctionsacrosschannelsand bydoingthisitcouldbenefittheconsumer’s experiencewiththebrand(Schaefer,2021). BrandyMelvillehasawiderangeofsocial media,itsmainonesareInstagram,TikTok, TwitterandPinterest.However,itssocialmediaplatformscouldbeoptimisedtoimprove userengagementandimprovethe communicationfrombusinesstoconsumer (Molina-Pradosetal,2021).Forexample,even thoughBrandyMelvillegainedpopularity throughInstagram,theInstagramshopfeature isnotinaction.Thisisamissedopportunityas havingtheoptiontolookatandpurchase productsoneveryplatformwouldincreasethe conveniencefortheconsumers(Molina-

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Therefore,ifthereisalackofinformationsuchashowtopurchasetheitem,thenitcould affecttheconsumerdecisionmakingprocessandcausetheconsumertoreconsiderthe purchaseasitcanbedifficulttoretaincustomer’sattention(Kimetal,2009).Also,Brandy MelvillehasaseparateInstagramaccountforeachcountrywhichalldistributesimilar contentthatignoresculturaldifferencesasthemodelcastingremainspredominantlywhite Caucasian.Forthatreason,itisevidentthatBrandyMelvillehasaglobalpresencewhere theexperienceisthesameinalllocationsandonlineplatformsacrosstheworld.Therefore, thebrandculturecouldbereinforcedtoencouragethedevelopmentofastrongerbrand image(Schroeder,2009).

LEARNING FROM ABERCROMBIE & FITCH

ThereisanopportunityforBrandyMelvilletolearnfromitscompetitorssuchasAbercrombie&Fitch. Abercrombie&Fitchwasonceabranddedicatedtooutdoorandsportingapparelbutturnedintoan exclusivefashionbrandinthe90stargetedtoteenagers(Hancocketal,2018).Thenewmodernimagewas ledbyMichaelJeffrieswhofocusedonmarketingtoconventionallyattractivepeoplewhichcanbe comparedtoBrandyMelville,asithasaspecifictargetconsumerthatexcludesmostconsumers.However, Abercrombie&Fitchhadtoresolvevariouspublicrelationissuesregardingtheethicsofthebrandsuchas hiringemployeesbasedonappearanceandonlystockingsmallerclothingsizes(Walters,2016)which resultedintherebrandofAbercrombie&Fitch.Therebrandhadtheinitiativeoftransformingitsbrand valuestoembraceinclusivityanddiversity.Thiswasshownthroughprojectssuchastheequityproject whichinvolvedvideosofconversationsaboutitsvalues.Therefore,thislinkstotheself-identity (Comunale,2009)oftheconsumersasthevaluesresonate(Armstrong-GibbsandMclaren,2017).This suggeststhatBrandyMelvillecouldlearnfromAbercrombie&Fitch’srebrandtocreateanewbrandimage thatispositionedintoamoreinclusivemarket.

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EXPERIENTIAL BRANDING

Experientialbrandingengagesconsumersthroughinteractivitythat stimulatesthesensestocreateamoretangibleexperience(Schmitt, 1999).BrandyMelvilleismostprominentonlinebutdoeshavebricks andmortarstorestoo.However,itdoesnothaveanoticeableflagship storethatcanshowcasethebrand’sauthenticimageandstrengthen brandequity(DolbecandChebat,2013).Thisisbecauseaflagship storecancreatevalueforthebrand,allowingconsumerstoforman attachmenttothebrand(DolbecandChebat,2013).Someconsumers haveanincreasedneedfortouch(PeckandChilders2003),which suggeststhatbricksandmortarareimportanttosatisfythem.Also,the musicchoiceinstorecanaffecthowthecustomerperceivesthebrand (Vida,2008)suggestingthatitwouldbesomethingtoconsiderina flagshipstoreforBrandyMelville.ThereisanopportunityforBrandy MelvilletoattachacafétoitsflagshipstoreasBrandyMelvilleis associatedwithacafécalledChillSince93andanoliveoilbrand.This wouldfulfilthetasteandsmellsensestoprovideafullexperiencefor theconsumers.Therefore,aflagshipstorecouldsolidifytheimagethat BrandyMelvillewantstoportrayasitwouldbeafullrepresentationof thebrand.

BRAND SICKNESS

TosumuptherationaleforrepositioningBrandyMelville,D’arienzo’s (2016)brandhealthcanbeusedtoidentifywhereBrandyMelvilleissick toprescribetreatment.Forexample,BrandyMelvillehasunclearvalues whichcontributestouncertaintyregardingtheperceptionofthebrand. BrandyMelvilleisproduct-centricmeaningthefocusisonselling,not thecustomer’sneeds(GuptaandRamachandran,2021).Toillustrate, BrandyMelvillesellsoliveoilonitse-commercewebsitewhichdoesnot matchthelifestyleofthetargetdemographicmeaningthatconsumersdo notknowwhatisbeingpromised(D’Arienzo,2016).Thatbeingthecase, BrandyMelvillecouldbedescribedashavingmyopia(Levitt,2004) becausethereisnobackgroundstorytotheproduct,ithasjustbeenlisted onthewebsitetomakeaprofit.Notonlythat,butbecauseBrandy Melvillelackssincerity(Aaker,1997),thebrandisseenasuntrustworthy (D’Arienzo,2016).Consumersarecomplainingabouttheethics,quality oftheclothesandcustomerservice(SeeappendixE)whichcausesthemto choosecompetitorsinstead.Therefore,BrandyMelvilleneedstoconnect withitsconsumerstogainbacktheirtrust(D’Arienzo,2016).

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BRAND VOICE

BrandyMelvilleshouldestablishabrandvoiceusingmoreconsideredcopywriteinitsproductdescriptions andInstagramcaptions(SeeappendixFforanexample).Foritsproductdescriptionsitwouldbebeneficialto getintouchwiththelifestyle(Hameide,2011)oftheconsumertocreateastorysotheconsumercanimagine themselvesinthenarrative.Takingthisapproachwouldincreasesincerityasthiswouldhelpstrengthenthe emotionalconnectiontotheconsumer(Comunale,2009),ratherthanbeingproductcentric.Intheexample,a summerpicnicissuggestedasitfitsthestyleofdress,anditbecameatrendonTikToktohavepicnicswith friendsandtheaverageTikTokdemographicmatchesBrandyMelvillesotheconsumermightidentifywith thescenario(Comunale,2009).Also,stylingtipsaresuggestedtogiveinspirationandthereisapossibilityto haveasectiononthewebsitewherecustomerscanuploadpicturesofthemselveswearingtheitemof clothing.Thiswouldcreateacommunityfeelandgivestheopportunityforimageryoftheclothingona diverserangeofpeoplewhichconsumersmayresonate(Armstrong-GibbsandMclaren,2017)withthese imagesmorethantheBrandyGirlmodels.IntermsofInstagramcaptions,thehashtagthatBrandyMelville usescanstillbeincorporatedintothecaption,however,itcouldhaveaddedsubstance(SeeappendixG).This exampleincludesthesaying“wheninRome”asitreferencestheItalianrootsofthebrandaswellasthe contextoftheshootsetting.ItisshortandsimplewhichgivesalaidbackfeelasifitistheInstagramaccount ofoneoftheBrandyGirlswhichfitsthecoolpersonality(Aaker,1997).

ONLINE CHANNELS

Arecommendationtodirectthebrandingtothe consumerwouldbetoimproveBrandyMelville’s onlinechannelsbymakinganomnichannel.Todo this,alltheonlinechannelsshouldhaveashopfeature enabled(SeeappendixH)wherepossible.However, Instagramshouldbeapriority,asitisthemainchannel fromwhichBrandyMelvilleoriginatedfrom.Another recommendationregardingBrandyMelville’sonline channelsisbringinginmoreculturalnuances.Even thoughBrandyMelvillehasanInstagramaccountfor everycountryitissituatedin,theimagerydoesnot reflecttheculturaldifferenceswhichcontributeto consumers’ideaofthebrandidentity(Vazirietal, 2021).Thismeansthatconsumersmightnotresonate (Hameide,2011)withtheimageryasitdoesnot representtheirownculture.Therefore,eithercut downtheamountofInstagramaccountsandhavejust onethatrepresentsBrandyMelvillewhichincludesa diverserangeofmodels.

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RECOMMENDATIONS

OrtheotheroptionwouldbetoshapetheInstagramaccountstothecountrythatitis representingbyadaptingthemodelcastingandbecomingmoreculturallysensitive (Schroeder,2009).Thechangessuggestedwouldassistthedevelopmentofbrand valuesforBrandyMelvilleasitwouldshowthattheconsumerisattheheartofthe branding.

TREATMENTS

ThereareafewoptionsfortreatingBrandyMelville’sbrandsicknesstorepositionintoamore inclusivehigh-streetmarket.Firstly,aflagshipstorecanbeasymbolofwhatBrandyMelvillestands fortocreateconsumervalueandstrengthenbrandequity(JinandCedrola,2017).Thelocationofthe flagshipwouldbeinLondononRegentStreetasitiseasilyaccessibleandBrandyMelville’s competitorssuchasHollisterandAbercrombie&Fitcharealsolocatedthere.Thereasonforthis locationisbecauseRegentStreethastubeaccessandbeingclosetocompetitorsgivesproximitytothe targetmarket(Arrigo,2015).Attachedtotheflagshipwouldbeacaféthatcouldsellfoodandcoffee thatisfuellingforadayofshoppingthatfeaturesMarsan’soliveoilandItalian-inspiredantipastithat goesbacktoBrandyMelville’sroots.Thefoodwouldbeaestheticallypleasingtoencouragethe consumertotakephotosandpostitonsocialmedia,butitwouldalsobesuitableforthe complementaryconsumers(D’arienzo,2016)whoarethemothersorcarersoftheteenagegirls.Thisis becausethetargetdemographicisyoungandstillneedssupervision.Thecaféwouldrepresentthenew imageforBrandyMelvilleas,inanidealworld,thesizerangeoftheclotheswouldbeexpandedwith theopeningoftheflagship.Themarketingofthecaféwouldspreadthemessageoffoodbeinghealthy fuelsothattheconsumerscanparticipateintheactivitiesthattheyenjoy(SeeappendixA).Therefore, movingBrandyMelvillefromexclusivetoinclusivebyprovidingclarityinbrandvalues.

IntheBrandyMelvilleflagshipstore,allthesenseswillbeaccountedfor.Forexample,forsight,an installationofobjectslikesurfboards,carnumberplatesandrecordscanbeputonawallasastatement. ThisisbecauseBrandyMelvillehassimilarobjectsinitsnormalstoressothiswouldmaintain consistencyinbrandimage(Hameide,2011).Intermsofauditorysenses,localindiebandscouldbe invitedtoperformperiodically,asonBrandyMelville’sInstagramreelstherearemanyvideosof BrandyGirlsplayingtheguitaranditwouldalsodrawinteenstothestoretoenjoythemusic.The caféwouldstimulatetasteandsmellandwouldprovideasocialhangoutspottoencouragethe consumerstostaylongerinthestore.Also,inthecafétostimulatethetouchsense,awarmsea-like breezecouldbeblowntorecreatethefeelingofbeingonthebeach,whichmatchestheactivitiesthat thetargetconsumerenjoys.Therefore,allthesefactorswouldcreateanexperientialflagshipstorethat stimulatesthesenses.

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AwaytotreatBrandyMelville’sproblemofbeingpercievedtobeuntrustworthyistodoacollaboration withatrustedbrand.Forexample,Glossierisamakeupandskincarebrandwiththemissionofgiving voicethroughbeautyandencouragingconversationabouttheideaofnaturalbeauty(Glossier,n.d.). InclusivityisasignificantbrandvalueforGlossierwhichmeansifBrandyMelvillecollaboratedwith Glossier,thiswouldshowthatitsvaluesalignwiththosethatGlossierhas.Notonlythat,butitwould expandBrandyMelville’sreachintheattemptstogainbacksalience(Hameide,2011).Thecollaboration couldinvolveanexclusivelipshadenamedBrandythatmatchesallskintonestoembracediversityandso thattheconsumercanachievetheaspirationofbeingaGlossierandBrandygirlcombined.Thismight increasethehypeforBrandyMelvilleandassociateitwithstrongerandmorepositivebrandvalues. Therefore,strengtheningthetrustthatconsumershaveforthebrand.

CONCLUSION

Tosumupthisreport,BrandyMelville’sbrandinghasbeeninvestigatedforthepurposeof providingsuggestionsonrepositioningintoamoreinclusivehigh-streetmarketand strengtheningbrandequity.ThemainproblemthatarosewasBrandyMelville’sabilityto establishmeaningfulconnectionswithitsconsumersasithasalackofsincerityand trustworthiness.Therefore,thesuggestionsincludedimprovingthebrandvoiceand copywritingaswellasdevelopingclearbrandvaluesfortheconsumertoidentifywith.It wasalsoevidentthattheproductisbeingputbeforethecustomerwhichisthereasonthat experientialbrandingwiththeintroductionofaflagshipstorewouldbebeneficialasitputs theconsumerbackintofocus.Inadditiontothat,anomnichannelcanbemadetofurther establishtheconnectiontotheconsumer’sneedsbycreatingaconvenientenvironmentfor purchasing.Also,abrandcollaborationwithGlossiercanhelptoexpandBrandyMelville byreachinganewmarketandconsolidatethebrandvaluesasitwouldalignBrandy MelvillewithGlossier'spositivebrandvalues.Bytakingontherecommendationswithin thisreport,BrandyMelvillecanexpandwithpurposeofmaintainingresponsibilityofits consumerswhilststillmakingtheall-importantprofit.

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APPENDIX A B
1 2 C D
1 3 E F
4 G H
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