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Anno 50 | N°8 del 09.07. 2019 | quindicinale | € 8,00 | www.fashionmagazine.it

Poste Italiane S.P.A. – Spedizione in abbonamento postale – D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 N.46) Art. 1, Comma 1 Lom/Mi/1769

Il magazine di news, business e trend

FULLY ENGLISH INTERNATIONAL EDITION

GENTLE ROAD TO

CONQUEST

Cover photo: Palm Angels


N° 8

9 JULY 2019 www.fashionmagazine.it

SUMMARY

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EDITOR’S NOTE

LEADERS

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LUCA SOLCA/BERNSTEIN

«DIGITAL FITNESS DRIVES CORPORATE VALUE »

12 BUYERS AT PITTI UOMO

AND MILAN FASHION WEEK

TOO MUCH OR TOO LITTLE?

22 WSM’S THIRD EDITION

A CREATIVE HUB

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25 WSM TALKS

ON THE COVER

Palm Angels spring-summer 2020 Photo Imaxtree

PROFITS AND PURPOSE

28 MILANO UNICA FABRICS IN THE BLOCKCHAIN AGE 30 PREMIÈRE VISION

AND TEXWORLD

THE DUO IS BACK

33 PITTI FILATI 85 JUMPING INTO THE FUTURE

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12 22 09_07_2019

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N° 8 9 JULY 2019 www.fashionmagazine.it

SUMMARY

87 91

73 44 GREG LAUREN «MY STYLE? IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT DESTROYED ELEGANCE» 46 MILAN VUKMIROVIC «FROM ONLINE TO OFFLINE ALWAYS AGAINST THE TIDE»

BUSINESS

TREND

73 PITTI 96 SPRING-SUMMER 2020 GEARING MIDNIGHT UP FOR HOUR 81 PITTI 96 OUTERWEAR

SPRING-SUMMER 2020

ADVENTURE ESSENTIALS

50 ROIAN ATWOOD WRANGLER EMBRACES SUSTAINABILITY WITH INDIGOOD

87 WSM SPRING-SUMMER 2020 FOK-US ON GREEN

52 SOFIA CIUCCHI/IL BISONTE «WE COULDN’T HAVE ASKED FOR A BETTER OWNER»

SPRING-SUMMER 2020

ESCAPE ROUTE

54 MARCO PIAZZI/ POLLINI «THERE IS NO INNOVATION WITHOUT TRADITION»

91 MEN’S CATWALKS

124 CAREERS 126 PORTRAITS/STEFANO SACCONE WOOLRICH’S NEW CEO POISED TO TAKE COMPANY GLOBAL 127 Q&A/MAX SIRENA «THE SAILING LOOK? FULL PERFORMANCE, ZERO COMPROMISE» 129 FASHION PEOPLE 130 RED CARPET

SPRING-SUMMER 2020

AUGMENTED INTIMACY 110 RESORT COLLECTIONS 2020 ROCK, RICE & VIDEOSTREAMS

68 BUYERS AT PITTI BIMBO 89 FROM BIG LABELS TO NICHE BRANDS: THE FAIR’S CHALLENGE

115 CHILDRENSWEAR

09_07_2019

PEOPLE

105 MENSWEAR

58 SEPTEMBER 19 TO 22 WHITE MILANO UNVEILS ITS NEXT EDITION

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SPRING-SUMMER 2020

PLAYING IT TOUGH

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SHOWROOM MILANO Via Gabrio Serbelloni, 2 - Milano

LM-stampa-ss19-fashion-international .indd 1

28/06/19 18:03


999 SHOWROOM www.999showroom.com Via Archimede 10 Milano, 20129, Italia Angelo +39 335 7058581 Jenny +39 331 9877716


With the current issue Fashion Magazine is proud to extend its reach way beyond its traditional role of national industry champion. On the eve of our 50th anniversary, we realize that our deep network and thorough knowledge of the Italian fashion sector is not only relevant to our loyal and cherished readership within the boundaries of the Peninsula, who are the country’s leading entrepreneurs, CEOs and businesspeople, but also to everybody who deals with the products of Italy’s dominant creative industry on an international level. We feel it is our duty to inform, analyze and forecast with the interests of a global target group in mind. As a top trader, you certainly have been aware of our role in the past, as we know most of you have consulted our Italian language print edition when on business trips to Italy, or our Italian daily online business newspaper (www.fashionmagazine.it) from your home base, using us for fact checking, trend research, corporate backgrounds or competitive benchmarking. We did try to help you out with translations of key interviews and reports. Now, however, you hold our first fully international edition in your hands. It being entirely written and edited in English, hopefully your task of understanding our country’s leading sector, with its stylish allure and high-quality products, will become a whole lot easier. Our English edition will be published four times a year, right after the four most important events on the global fashion calendar, those being the menswear and womenswear shows and fairs. In this first edition, you will find a complete tour through the top menswear names who very recently have been on display in Florence, Milan and Paris. As always, well-informed buyers’ opinion, collected firsthand through talks with many of the most renowned global experts, has guided us across this universe. You will also find a deep dive into the worlds of fibers and textiles, as these ingredients still do play and always will a key role in making true made in Italy quality possible. Our mission is to enable you to spot key trends first, them being in business or product, and to gain complete oversight and in-depth insight. Now more than ever, with information apparently ubiquitous, an intelligent filter and competent analysis are decisive success factors. Together with you, we will continue to achieve this.

EDITOR’S NOTE

Italy Reaches Out to The World

Alla vigilia dei 50 anni, Fashion si propone quattro volte all’anno completamente in inglese. In seguito a innumerevoli richieste, la nostra missione si estende. Oltre a interloquire con voi, stimati imprenditori del made in Italy, parleremo con il mondo. Far conoscere le eccellenze del made in Italy a tutte le latitudini sarà più che mai la nostra missione.

Marc Sondermann

CEO & Editor-in-Chief

09_07_2019

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INTERVIEW

LUCA SOLCA/BERNSTEIN

«DIGITAL FITNESS DRIVES CORPORATE VALUE» In this interview with Fashion Magazine Bernstein’s Luca Solca, the world’s most influential luxury analyst, underscores the importance of digital for the value of the industry’s key players. His stance is that a company’s digital positioning is an ever more important proxy for its overall competitive fitness 1

BY MARC SONDERMANN

Does a brand’s degree of digital fitness contribute to determine its financial value? I think it does. Digital competences are strongly linked to the overall growth of sales. Moreover, the dynamic part of turnover is the one set in place by young consumers, who buy online in great numbers and are strongly hooked into social media. Financial markets are primarily interested in the top line, as these companies rely heavily on fixed costs. Being able to intercept young clients such as Millennials and the Z generation, therefore, drives revenues and thus becomes decisive in determining a company’s valuation. Those who have been late into this game, like for instance Prada, are presently suffering. Key aspects like having the right product and a top brand remain extremely important, however. As does distribution. How much does distribution policy matter? A lot. Look at the situation of Richemont, the luxury group, for instance. One of the biggest problems you can have today is to depend too much on your wholesale channels. You may choose to acquire a pure player like Yoox Net-a-Porter, but if the consumer finds your watches at a 30% discount on websites like Chrono24.com, where your very distributor puts them up for sale, you will be hard tried

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to perform well on your monobrand e-store. Being ready for the digital world means having clean physical distribution. This is the only way you can govern pricing and avoid that your wholesale customers compete with you online. How important is digital on the communications front? In order to reach very young consumers, glossy magazines are only marginally relevant nowadays. It is much more important to be able to read your data in a correct way. This does not only hold true for merchandising, whose right handling can have a very noteworthy impact, but also for your digital communication channels, of course. In this respect the main danger is that these operations are undertaken with a mass mailing mentality and do in fact become ventures of spamming. It is, on the contrary, quite important to custom-tailor one’s messaging to well defined segments. The main aim has to be to stay relevant every single time you interact with your client base. How will the rise of online marketplaces change the competitive landscape? We are talking about a game of fundamen-

tal strategic importance. If multibrand marketplaces become heavy attractors of traffic, this can pose a serious problem. These players are becoming much more important hubs than their physical counterparts ever were. The likes of Harrods or Galeries Lafayette carry only a relative weight. Digitally speaking, however, there is no limit to concentration. With regards to large swaths of the retail industry, Amazon is acting like a winner who takes it all. Should Farfetch be able to impose itself in a similar manner in the luxury realm, many top brands would not only risk worsened commercial terms, but also the loss of their pricing power. Farfetch’s current conduct in terms of official geopricing guidelines, which it tends to follow only to a certain degree, may be a stark warning of things to come. Is the big luxury groups’ reaction correct? Currently every one of them seems to be striving to build one’s own multibrand website. This is definitely the rationale behind the Yoox Net-a-Porter acquisition by Richemont, even if a pure player of apparel and leather accessories does not have much in common with the realm of hard luxury. But also the other groups’ attempts are currently very modest in their scope.


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What are the odds of Farfetch becoming the world’s dominant luxury marketplace? Farfetch definitely started with a strong advantage. In fact, many brands such as Gucci and Prada are helping them out in this effort of establishing a new giant by making their products available to them. All relevant players of the luxury market must, however, ask themselves how smart of a choice it is to let Farfetch become an unassailable behemoth. It makes sense to go along with someone bigger if you are not able to generate traffic with your own brand. If your brand does however generate traffic in itself, it doesn’t make a lot of sense to nurture a channel that may tomorrow become hegemonic. Chanel’s approach to buy a stake in Farfetch without selling its products there is much smarter: they are in fact financing the rope that the others may, rather sooner than later, use to hang themselves. Can digital native brands be real alternatives to heritage names? They can be really harmful. Being of such recent birth, digital native brands are mostly able, if they don’t become too greedy too soon, to avoid channel conflicts altogether. They also have the strength to stay true to themselves, right from the start, as they use wholesa-

le channels only in a very limited way. Their presence is often circumscribed to department stores only, where they preeminently operate within a concession logic. In the eyewear sector, for instance, brands like Warby Parker are posing a problem for more traditional players. The merger between Luxottica and Essilor has to be viewed as an absolutely defensive move, also because the sunglasses market is way easier to attack than the optical eyewear segment. In numerical terms, the low growth rate we have seen in recent years with players such as Luxottica is surely due to the rapid market entry of digital native brands. What quantitative indicators do you use to evaluate the digital fitness of a given brand? There are not many of them readily available. Mostly, we build them ourselves. Important factors we keep an eye on are Instagram followers, Google search query volumes and, first and foremost, the trends behind these very measures. Inherently, the number of indicators to observe is multiplying, while the relevance of stores for the top line is diminishing. How will the physical point of sale evolve? I believe iconic flagships will become ever more important. Only stores that convey a

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1. Luca Solca, the Bernstein analyst specialized in luxury stocks 2. A recently opened menswear Prada store in Monte Carlo 3. A screenshot of wristwatch ecommerce platform Chrono24 4. A set of Dolce&Gabbana sunglasses, as recently seen on the catwalk for next winter

strong sense of a brand’s positioning will flourish, as will those who will be able to service entertainment, conveniency or information needs. A store will either enable the public to discover something new, or the consumer will shop online, where the experience is more comfortable. This is one of the reasons why luxury brands are recently betting on pop-up stores. Where will multibrand stores stand tomorrow? If they will be able to operate in an omnichannel modality, multibrand stores will continue to fulfill a very important function. They have it within their genes to edit, to scout, and therefore to launch brand new fashion propositions. This is a precious role, but one needs to free oneself from the slavish repetition of already dominant trends, such as the current Gucci frenzy. ■

09_07_2019

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NEWS BY ELISABETTA FABBRI

NIKE MISSES PROFIT PROJECTION Nike’s fourth quarter net profit came in below analysts’ expectations, with a net profit of $989 million, down by 13 percent, compared to the same period a year earlier. Revenues were up 4 percent to $10.2 billion (up 10 percent at constant exchange). In particular, Nike brand revenue totalled $9.7 billion (up 10 percent at constant exchange), while Converse label revenue remained unchanged at $491 million. On an annual basis, total revenues increased by 7 percent to $39.11 billion (up 11 percent at constant exchange). Full year net profit more than doubled from $1.93 to $4.03 billion, thanks to higher margins and a lower tax levy.

H&M BOOKS STRONG FIRST HALF

TEXTILE-FASHION-ACCESSORY

NETCOMM FOCUS FASHON&LIFESTYLE

ITALIAN EXPORTS ACCELERATE IN 1Q

DIGITAL BUZZ AT MILAN’S STOCK EXCHANGE

Textile-fashion-accessory companies continued to expand in foreign markets. Between January and March of 2019, exports rose by 5.6 percent, accelerating versus the first quarter of 2018, which closed with an increase of 2.1 percent. The quarterly data, together with full-year 2018 results, were released at the end of June, at a Confindustria Moda meeting, under the chairmanship of Claudio Marenzi (in 2020 he will be succeeded by vice president Cirillo Marcolin). Confindustria Moda is the Italian federation made up of around 67,000 companies in fashion, textiles and accessories. According to data compiled by the federation, revenues from its associated companies grew by 0.7 percent, to 95.5 billion euros in 2018. Foreign sales totalled 63.4 billion euros (up 2.7 percent). Half of all exports were represented by textiles and clothing, followed by footwear (15.1 percent) and leather goods (12.9 percent). Gold and jewellery weigh 10.2 percent, compared to 6 percent for eyewear and tanned goods, while furs represented one percent of the total. In 2018, the EU absorbed 46.8 percent of exports in value, while non-EU countries purchased 53.2 percent of the Italian textile-fashion-accessory production. The surplus in the sector's trade balance exceeded 28 billion euros. That was 1.5 percent more than the surplus in 2017, confirming textilefashion-accessory sector as the second largest Italian industrial sector for balance of trade surplus.

The Netcomm Focus Fashion&Lifestyle event is back. Slated for July 9, in Milan at Palazzo Mezzanotte, the headquarters of the Italian Stock Exchange, the summit is being organised by Netcomm, the Consortium of Italian digital commerce and Fashion magazine. Major topics include digital transformation and e-commerce as it relates to the fashion, beauty and design sectors. It’s an opportunity to meet and compare relevant and innovative realities of the digital and lifestyle chain and is an occasion to reflect on the evolution of the digital consumer and the competitive scenario. The conference will be presided by Roberto Liscia (president of Netcomm) and Marc Sondermann (editor-in-chief and ceo of Fashion and eBusiness). Key note speakers will include technology experts representing companies like Kantar, Google, Astound Commerce, Adobe and Verizon Media. In the late morning, the round table entitled "Innovation drives experience: companies at the consumer pace" is on the agenda and will welcome speakers from Etro, Euris Group, Startupbootcamp, Contactlab, and Mondadori. In the afternoon, "New retail is now" (with Coin, Openmind, HiPay and Starbucks Italy) and "Capturing global opportunities: new models between digital and tradition" (with speakers from Luxottica, Roberto Cavalli, Reda and Vtex) will be discussed. 10 workshops are also planned, tackling issues ranging from winning conversion to commerce experience, as well as the content challenge.

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Hennes & Mauritz saw its net sales rise 11 percent to 108.5 billion crowns (over 10 billion euros) in the first six months of the year. Operating margins fell by 7.2 percent to 6.9 billion crowns. As a result, the Ebit margin went from 7.3 percent to 6.4 percent, while the halfyear profit fell to 5.4 billion from 6 billion a year earlier, which had benefited from the tax reform in the US. In the second quarter, in particular, sales grew by 11 percent to 57.5 billion crowns (up by 6% in local currencies), while the Ebit fell from 6 to 5.9 billion and profits were almost stabilised at 4,6 billion. Sales of the summer collections started well. The company said year-on-year, June sales will report growth of 12 percent at constant exchange. Meanwhile, the integration between offline and online sales and the development of e-commerce in-tandem with the opening of new stores, continues (photo below, the biggest store in Paris reopend la year). The retail network optimisation project includes 165 closures in 2019.


SUNNEI

MEN’S FASHION WEEK

During Italy’s summer fashion season, namely Pitti Uomo in Florence and Milan fashion week, buyers praised firmly established big designer names and historic locations. However underground brands (and locations) also emerged as potential players

BUYERS AT PITTI UOMO AND MILAN FASHION WEEK

TOO MUCH OR TOO LITTLE? It was a week of uncertainties. Despite the buzz created by buyers who lauded the high quality of Pitti Uomo brands and Milan Fashion Week, it was clear that both major calendar events need refocusing. In Florence, menswear presentations and shows remain a must-see, though an overwhelming roster of appointments actually overshadowed the fair itself.By comparison, Milan men’s fashion week was marked by a record-low number of shows - a sign that organisers are hard-pressed to involve more relevant names BY ANDREA BIGOZZI

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THE ABSENCE OF PRADA IS A LOSS FOR MILAN, HOWEVER I BELIEVE THIS TOO IS A REFLECTION OF A CHANGING WORLD, WHERE EVERYONE IS CONNECTED VIA SOCIAL MEDIA… SO THE CITY IN WHICH A SHOW TAKES PLACE IS ACTUALLY LESS IMPORTANT

Ekaterina Moiseeva Bosco di Ciliegi


MUST HAVE

Sunnei

SPRING-SUMMER 2020

Etro

CARGO PANT

Givenchy

SANDALS

here was something different about the Spring-Summer 2020 edition of Pitti Uomo and Milano Moda Uomo: the air was laden with the uncertainty of the future of these kind of events, or on how things will evolve. Seen from above, with over 1,200 brands, the Florentine trade show remains an almost untouchable tradition, despite the fall in buyer numbers (from 19,100 to 18,500) and some criticism linked to the excessive emphasis organizers have placed on special guest shows to the detriment of stands inside Fortezza da Basso. Fears have been confirmed at Milano Moda Uomo: the absence of big names such as Prada has ta-

ken its toll, to the extent that the President of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, Carlo Capasa, has commented to journalists: “We must fortify Milan. We are working on an important event. The Municipality has made the city available to us, but I can’t say any more at this time.” PITTI UOMO: FASHION WEEK OR TRADE FAIR? MORE TALENT SCOUTING COULD ADD VALUE The problem with both events is not the product. There is consensus among all buyers on the fashion factor: Italian companies and designers confirmed themselves yet

SHORT-SLEEVE SHIRTS PRINTED

Versace

T

M1992

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

LIGHT PARKA

ANIMALIER

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MEN’S FASHION WEEK

MSGM

ANDREA SELVI LUISAVIAROMA Men’s Buyer I GO OUT

EMPORIO ARMANI

PITTI UOMO

top-notch. I hope the organisers again this season as being perSTRUCK A HIGH don’t end up concentrating too fectly capable of expressing NOTE THANKS TO much on the off-fair events and a contemporary menswear THE ORGANISING shows, to the detriment of what vision, which in terms of colTEAM’S PASSION they have always done best: the lections and looks shown on FOR FASHION fair itself. Today everyone says the catwalk and at stands, conAND THE LEVEL that you go to Fortezza to nettinues to be characterised by a OF QUALITY THE work and in my opinion, this is strong element of streetwear EXHIBITION AND a limiting factor. Scouting must (albeit in an array of different EVENTS THEY always remain an indispensaproposals), capable of co-exiACHIEVED. MILAN ble prerogative of a fair, also sting with a return to Italian HAS LOST ITS because this is how you forge sartorial elegance, stripped of APPEAL WITHOUT PRADA. THE BEST buyer loyalty,” Galbiati said. formalism. So why is it that SHOW? EMPORIO Based on our interviews, comdespite an impressive line up ARMANI ments from buyers are almost of special guests, buyer numall limited to the six shows bers have slightly decreased at Hirofumi Kurino featured at the event: SalvatoPitti Uomo? No one seems to United Arrows re Ferragamo, Msgm, Sterling have an explanation, especially Ruby, Marco De Vincenzo, since the 96th edition excited Pronounce and Givenchy, and were by far many buyers: “There was so much to see,” the most appreciated brands by professiosaid Lee Goldup of Browns. “Florence is nals. As for the names that were present the true fashion week,” said Andrea Selvi inside the fair, comments were few and of LuisaViaRoma. Although not everyofar between. Galbiati himself had encoune agrees. Andrea Galbiati, menswear raging words for the I go out section of the buyer for Folli Follie/Fr Boutique/Onefair. Federica Montelli, head of fashion of Off/TheDoubleF.com reflected on how Rinascente, cites the top ten designers of Pitti Uomo was lacking nolveties. “This Guest Nation China. Andra Selvi, men’s edition of Pitti Uomo was less stimulabuyer at LuisaViaRoma, discovered three ting than usual. I’m talking about what new names at Fortezza: Martin Asbjorn, happened at Fortezza da Basso, not about Pier Sicilia and (continued on page 16) external events, which were all absolutely

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What emerges clearly from this week dedicated to men’s fashion is that there has been a shift in the balance between both cities. At this rate, we are likely to hear talk of a Florence fashion week. Givenchy was one of the shows which left its mark at Pitti Uomo. In Milan my favourite show was Dsquared2, with extremely fresh looks and contemporary silhouettes. Canali is doing an excellent job, Sunnei remains interesting for menswear. Etro is undergoing an interesting metamorphosis. Versace is doing well, increasingly connected to music, as is the case with other brands in Milan.


www.artioli.com

by appointment - Via Bigli 15 Milano - info@artioli.com


MEN’S FASHION WEEK

Arys, while Erik Danielson of Nitty Gritty was one of those showcases that could not be overshadowed by headline events. Brands at the top of Selvi’s list were Nanamica for coats, Begg & Co for scarves, and Anderson e Drake’s for belts. There have also been worries from exhibitors, some of them fear that the artistic/cultural focus thrust upon the event by its organisers, coupled with an abundance of external fashion shows, did little in the way of boosting sales campaigns for small to medium-sized companies in Fortezza. However, Pitti Immagine ceo Raffaello Napoleone was keen to reassure guests: “Pitti Uomo is an event in-sync with great changes to communication, consumption and distribution,” Napoleone said. PRADA’S ABSENCE LEFT A VOID IN MILAN, THOUGH YOUNG TALENT WAS THRUST INTO THE SPOTLIGHT As Florence grappled with an over-abundance of extra content, Milan is experiencing the exact opposite: men’s fashion week has turned into a long weekend, with a lacklustre roster of shows. The absence of iconic brands like Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Missoni, which combined men’s and women’s fashion in a single show during women’s week, left a void. Prada, which has yet to clarify how it will showcase its mens’wear in the future, also left a ga- (continued on page 18)

FENDI

TYLER FRANCH HUDSON’S BAY Fashion director

The shows in Milan were strong this season. A clear point of view we know of is streetwear is on the decline and a new form of sartorialism is back. Each designer has a unique take but the message is clear – it’s time for the men to smarten up again. I loved Marni, Versace, Fendi and Zegna. The novelty accessories at Fendi inspired by the chicest version of a gardener were fantastic. Versace showed a collection paying part tribute to prodigy’s front man Keith Flint, who died in March. The show was full of fashion forward ideas and high energy prints and colour. I’m sure we will see a lot of our streetstyle favourites

in the acid wash jackets and pants, tie-dye tees and leopard tailoring come spring. I also respect what Sunnei has been doing. I love to see emerging designers who stay true to their DNA but can evolve each season into what is now for them a brand that has a wide breadth of offering. The dynamic locations of the runways are always very special in Milan. From Fendi’s poetic show at the lush gardens at Milan’s Villa Reale to the underground location of Sunnei’s show set way out of town to the far East end of the city centre beneath a long stretch of the Tangenziale freeway that encircles the city. Each setting brought you the emotion and fantasy you yearn to get from a fashion show.

FIONA FIRTH MR PORTER Buying Director

Both Fendi and Brioni were a particular highlight for me as the collections introduced a more grown up and elegant silhouette whilst using the best fabrics imaginable. I also liked Tom Ford and Massimo Alba’s relaxed casualwear in an amazing colour palette. At Pitti Uomo my favourite collections were from Altea, Drakes and Brunello Cucinelli as they showed pieces that will resonate well with our customers. But I really like also Original Madras for its madras checks and Pineider for its sophisticated writing instruments. I think soft, unconstructed jackets will be key and very wearable next Spring. ALTEA

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LEE GOLDUP BROWNS Menswear Buyer

HARRY WANG DEMIR ASLANOĞLU BEYMEN Chief buyer-Men Merchandise Group

Milan was an edition full of fresh ideas. After a couple of seasons focused on sportswear, a return to elegance and ready-to-wear, like in footwear was palpable. There were more moccasins and less sneakers, lots of jackets, shirts and ties. There’s a desire to return to a more refined fashion sense, because people have grown tired of logos, all-out sportswear and nineties style vintage. I liked the Dolce&Gabbana show, with lots of beautiful silhouettes of trousers and jackets with a classier twist. Neil Barrett also hit the nail on the head, with a proposal aimed at a younger target audience. Zegna selected wintry yet superlatively elegant colours and held a show in a fantastic location.

TMALL LUXURY DIVISION Merchandising VP

I really enjoyed Pitti this season as there was so much to see; at the trade fair the ‘I Go Out’ area was by far my favourite and the shows that really stood out were Pronounce, Givenchy and Sterling Ruby. I saw a lot there that I think will really excite the Browns customer for the season ahead which is always great. The trends that have caught my eye this season are cargo pants, oversized bags and silky fabrics. In terms of colour mint green, yellow and brown have been very prominent on the runway. Although the show was not in Milan, I loved the Prada collection at the presentation, it’s been my favourite I’ve seen so far. I think the musthave item of the next season will be nylon parka’s at Prada, pink suits at Bed. JW. Ford and cargo pants at Sunnei. For the accessories have no doubt: FPM luggage was fantastic. Suitcases are really relevant again with the rise of collaborations such as Rimowa x Supreme so it’s always great to see this offering have a real presence in terms of accessories.

SS20 Milan Fashion week was the testament that the concept of streetwear continues challenging established menswear houses to respond to younger clients taking on a structured way, with nods to iconic workwear elements such as cargo pants and revisited suiting. MFW has proposed a casual approach for the new generation of male luxury customers how to dress up with a relaxed and sporty attitude, joyful colour palettes, and light layering. On my opinion the winning brands of the season are Fendi, Marni, Givenchy, Sunnei, Neil Barrett standing for neo-tailoring in a more relaxed form and exemplifying how men can pair iconic jackets and tailored pants with youthful knits featuring bold yet chic prints. Msgm however undertook a more grown-up approach to revisit their signature streetwear silhouettes proposing multiple ways to mix sport elements with daily essential wardrobes.

TAKADA KIYOHIKO

ISETAN-MITSUKOSHI Men’s & Sports Dept./Special Projects

Among my favourites were the denim proposals by Emporio Armani. What I appreciated about Dolce&Gabbana was how both designers focused on imagination rather than the logo. Zegna is evolving with Alessandro Sartori and his exploration. However the soul of the brand, linked to tailoring, needs to stay in place. Currently Japanese men are looking for a sophisticated style, with handmade contents. NEIL BARRETT

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MEN’S FASHION WEEK

MARIO GRAUSO ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

RICCARDO TORTATO TSUM Men’s fashion director

Starting from Florence, I found this edition of Pitti Uomo more interesting than usual. Also greater attention was paid to Italian excellence, compared to the past. The events made the most impact were the Brunello Cucinelli dinner and the Givenchy mens wear fashion show. If I were to give the organisers some advice, I’d emphasise the trade show exhibitors even more. Milan was a long weekend rather than a full of fashion week. I liked Fendi, it was ultra chic, Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, the only design show and Kiton, the highest expression of Italian quality.

ping gap in the calendar of events. “If I were to organise Milano Moda Uomo, I’d ask all Italian brands not to do coeds, and to hold shows in Milan. Menswear is a crucial part of our business, the area which is showing the most growth, and therefore it deserves its very own special moment,” commented Riccardo Tortato, men’s fashion director of Tsum. On the flip side, the calendar created an opportunity for young talents eager to emerge onto the fashion stage. Indeed professionals and buyers were forced to take recognition of brands like Palm Angels and Sunnei. “Both are generating good sell-outs in boutiques, thanks to strong stylistic contents and value for money,” said Claudio Betti from the multi-brand Spinnaker in Sanremo and Alassio. “I have immense respect for the work of Sunnei. It’s always nice to see emerging

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brands stay faithful to their essence while also evolving their commercial offerings,” said Tyler French, fashion director of Hudson’s Bay. M1992 (British style), Magliano (Italian style) and Danilo Paura (urban style) also achieved considerable visibility during their fashion shows. “All three brands are already a part of our selection, but it’s still great to see how their collections are going from strength to strength with the passing of each season,” said Montelli, who confirmed that Giorgio di Salvo’s United Standard is also a part of the Italian new wave of fresh names and for this season it even designed the third chapter of Archive+Now for Trussardi. Its underground fashion was welcomed by top foreign buyers, as well as Italian companies, including globally recognised names like Luisa ViaRoma and FolliFollie. Buyers were quick to point

HOLT RENFREW President

Although Milan was a little light on runway shows this season, a few made a strong impact - Zegna’s show in an abandoned factory featuring clothes with sustainable materials, Fendi’s poetic garden collection, and as always, Giorgio Armani delivering a strong show of sartorial offerings which closed Milan. Definitely Fendi’s natural setting was the perfect backdrop for a poetic collection with relaxed tailoring, abstract botanical prints, and a paired back utility that felt fresh. Highlights were the logo garden tools! I love the accessories too - the lattice totes, PVC printed botanicals, and the branded garden tools were an unexpected surprise. In Florence the Givenchy show was a real standout. Held in the historical Villa Palmieri in Florence, the show featured bold floral prints on men’s tailoring and some interesting paper-fine parkas, paired with minimal suiting. Sterling Ruby showed a strong first collection in Pitti with bold print mixings. This is definitely a brand to watch. Outdoor inspired utility was a big trend across many brands in Milan, whether it was the nylon anoraks with oversized pockets at Prada, or Fendi’s paired back, workwear-material utility jackets with detachable pockets. There were great walking or hiking shorts from every brand, and pops of florals, bright colours, and embellishments added a great deal of texture to the collections. This season Milan was all about the great outdoors. Prada also had many must-haves this season, most notable of which were the anoraks.


Sunnei and Palm Angels: the Best-loved Italian New Wave for Buyers At the closing event of Milano Moda Uomo which was staged at Casa degli Atellani di Milano, entitled “It’s all about creativity and business”, Francesco Tombolini and Beppe Angiolini (respectively chairman and honorary chairman of CBI - Camera Buyer Italia) awarded two new fastgrowing Italian brands which have won over the press, buyers and end consumers alike. Sunnei emerged victorious, the brand created by

PALM ANGELS

IF YOU’RE NOT A BIG BRAND THEN THERE’S ONLY ONE WAY FOR YOU TO BE NOTICED: STRONG STYLISTIC CONTENT MIXED WITH A FAVOURABLE PRICE POINT. THIS IS HOW PALM ANGELS AND SUNNEI ACHIEVE EXCELLENT STORE SELLOUT

out that there was a lack of inin Milan was the right one, ternational names, despite the but we could have done with a introduction of promising local few more brands,” Selvi said. talent. Some lamented that the Many hope that Carlo Capasa’s calendar is still too provincial plan to strengthen Milan men’s and pales in comparison to Pafashion week also includes the ris and Florence. Some comaddition of new and internatiomented that Milan should levenal names. For the future it will rage international personalities be important to understand if in order to transcend barriers. the co-ed formula will become Case in point: Stella McCartless generalised, leaving more ney’s event, for example, helroom for new acts in men’s Claudio Betti ped create the kind of hype Mifashion week in Milano. Etro Spinnaker lano Moda Uomo so desperaset a good example reverting to tely needs. Lesser known interits traditional practise of shownational names like Japanese act Bed J.W. ing menswear autonomously, a move Ford, which according to Lee Goldup of which was appreciated by buyers, incluBrowns, generated next season’s mustding Ekaterina Moiseeva, fashion director have (a pink dress), and South Korean of Bosco di Ciliegi. (contributors: Alesact Youser, with its first Milan show also sandra Bigotta, Elisabetta Fabbri, Carla stood out. “The decision to let him show Mercurio, Angela Tovazzi) ■

the duo Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, as did Palm Angels, designed by Francesco Ragazzi. “Names which represent the new wave of made in Italy”, in the words of Carlo Capasa, number one of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. From the viewpoint of the retailers Sunnei and Palm Angels, they are a valid selling point, as they blend distinctive creativity with a strong sales potential.

Thanks to all the fashion buyers met at PITTI UOMO and MILAN FASHION WEEK for their support Beppe Angiolini Sugar • Demir Aslanoğlu Beymen • Claudio Betti Spinnaker • Erik Danielson Nitty Gritty • Rinaldo di Falco Bongénie Grieder • Fiona Firth Mr Porter • Tyler Franch Hudson’s Bay• Lee Goldup Browns • Andrea Galbiati Folli Follie • Mario Grauso Holt Renfrew • Takada Kiyohiko Isetan Mitsukoshi Institute-Division of Isetan Mituskoshi Co. • Hirofumi Kurino United Arrows • Federica Montelli Rinascente • Ekaterina Moiseeva Bosco di Ciliegi • Gennady Nesterov Metro Premium • Cesare Tadolini L’Incontro • Andrea Selvi Luisaviaroma.com • Yoshihiro Shibata Hankyu Hanshin Department Stores • Riccardo Tortato Tsum • Harry Wang Tmall

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TOP BUYERS

SIX NEW MEMBERS IN THE ASSOCIATION

Camera Buyer Refreshes Name And Strategy The association will open up to new product categories and international players. «We will be a community»said the president Tombolini

A new name, for a new mission. With a new president at the helm, Camera Italiana Buyer Moda is now Camera Buyer Italia or simply, CBI. The consortium will also be known as Community Based Identity whilst sharing the same acronym. The decision was made by the association’s annual meeting, the first to be chaired by its newly elected president Francesco Tombolini. The association also welcomed new shareholders: One Block Down, Tredicimetriquadri, Slam Jam and Gibot. The re-naming was selected by all 105 members to reflect the conversion into a community. “We don’t want to be a closed organisation. Instead, we want to be a place open to institutions, trade fair organisers, brands, showrooms and international buyers. We also aim to involve

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1. Camera Buyer Italia’s president Francesco Tombolini and Beppe Angiolini, the owner of multibrand store Sugar 2. The closing party of Mfw held at Casa degli Atellani

emerging forms of retail and other product categories like home, jewellery, eyewear, flowers and travel, in addition to our active collaboration with Camera Nazionale Moda Italiana and Sistema Moda Italia,” Tombolini said. The meeting held June 18thin Milan culminated with the presentation of Dream, a new project focused on the introdution to a large scale optimization strategy. “The idea is to build an associative consortium by 2021, aimed at all suppliers and part-ners of Italian retailers, to favour the optimisation of costs and digital integration across the board,” Tombolini said. The first steps towards this new strategy are: the launch

of the aggregate CBI site and the presentation of a new app to aid its management of services. Relations with Farfetch and supplier brands are also crucial to this effect, which as of now, will be directly managed by CBI in an attempt to leverage its role and more than 2.2 billion of sales generated by associates. The association also issued this statement: “Following recent feedback on selective distribution, geopricing and quality standards, we wish to present ourselves as a single reference point, inspired by a desire to create a work method that protects retailer investments while at the same time promotes Italian brands abroad.” (an.bi.)

NEW OPENING IN MARSEILLES

Vinicio Joins Rush Abroad, Opens First International Store Vinicio’s seventh store and first international point of sale has now opened on luxury shopping promenade Boulevard Longchamp in Marseille. The store is spread over three levels, covering a total area of 900 square meters, and contains a basement reserved for accessories, while the two upper floors are respectively dedicated to the women’s and men’s collections.“We had considered opening a store abroad for some time. We finally took this important, strategic step with the opening in Marseille, ” said owner Vinicio Ravagnani, who said he decided to look beyond Italy for its seventh store. Spread throughout three floors (accessories, menswear and womenswear), the new boutique mixes the corner formula with the multi-brand approach. Brands on sale include Dior, Balenciaga and new entry Burberry. “The intention,” explains Ravagnani, “was not to stray too far from Northern Italy, where our other stores are concentrated, at least to start with. The Italian market is now saturated, while in Europe there is still room for multi-brand retailers and we are not excluding the possibility of other such operations in the future.” For the Marseille store, the buyer decided to focus on a concept of luxury, encompassing both traditional brands and newer, streetwear brands that are popular among younger generations. Each floor has dedicated spaces for a number of companies, but there is also an area with a multi-brand selection. At the entrance there are shops-in-

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1. and 3. The new boutique in Blvd Longchamps unites fashion for men and women as well as accessories 2. Vinicio Ravagnani owns seven multibrand store

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shops with accessories designed by brands such as Dior (for men and women), Celine, Balenciaga and Balmain. The shop windows in Boulevard Longchamp are nothing new to people familiar with Marseille. For thirty years, the building was occupied by a clothing boutique managed by a French buyer. The building was revamped under Ravagnani’s direction. “We have revitalised it. Eliminating certain brands that we do not consider particularly interesting and adding new brands. Chloé and Burberry were among the first new additions and others will arrive next season, although the selection is not yet complete,” Ravagnani said. (an.bi.)


ITALIAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK

WSM’S THIRD EDITION

A CREATIVE HUB The new business&consumer format launched by White is attracting major streetwear brands and niche labels that believe in responsible fashion. Organisers work towards establishing a highlight of Milan fashion week. Buyers and the UN agree DI ELISABETTA FABBRI

«W

e are at the start of a journey that will lead to the rejuvenation of men’s fashion week,” commented Massimiliano Bizzi, founder of White, referring to the third edition of White Street MarketWSM, the business&consumer event devoted to fashion and street cultures, which was held from June 15 to 17 at Superstudio Più in Milan. Conditioned by the African heat, the event received slightly fewer visitors compared to the January event. However, many are willing to bet that this experimental project, which places a strong emphasis on responsible fashion, is the right path, starting with supporters such as MISE, ICE and Confartigianato and partners such as the UNECE (United Nations Economic Commission for Europe) and Fashion Revolution, a non-profit movement aiming to make the fashion industry ethical and sustainable. The WSM opening conference, moderated by Fashion’s director Marc Sondermann, was an opportunity for Maria Teresa Pisani of the UNECE to announce the Commission willingness to start a multi-stakeholder discussion group (fashion industry chain, consumers, cultural representatives, academies and foundations) focused on concrete sustainability initiatives, seen as “as an ethical choice and a business opportunity.” Looking ahead, Pisani said within two years, she sees the creation of a United Nations standard for the traceability of the supply chain and the use of blockchains, giving consumers access to correct information. Designer Marina Spadafora, who coordinates Fashion Revolution in Italy, revealed that the movement is preparing to create a map for consumers who want to dress sustainably. The movement also has plans to recycle clothing companies’ stocks, “so that they are not sold off cheaply or incinerated, but enhanced.” The fair/event,

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organized by White in collaboration with Milanese communication agencies Probeat Agency and Nss factory, also involves buyers. “It is a project open to everyone, where you can see and think, and I hope that it will increasingly grow with the involvement of other fairs,” remarked Francesco Tombolini, President of Camera Buyer Italia-CBI. “WSM is able to create a wonderful creative synergy,” commented Rosy Biffi, owner of Biffi Boutiques in Milan and Bergamo, as well as the Milanese stores Banner and Biffi BContemporary. “I always find the concept and the set-up appealing.” The buyer views the focus on sustainability as an excellent choice: “They have managed to come up with a creative hub that is able to attract attention to the subject, exploring various possibilities, with brands that combine a sustainable appearance with aesthetic and stylistic elements, which are essential for making a product attractive to consumers”. Biffi also expressed her approval of sustainable fashion brand Wråd, one of the WSM exhibitors. “We love its taste and youthful, very sophisticated creativity,” she said. “I think Massimiliano Bizzi is a courageous precursor of a trend that has just begun, but that will definitely guide many future brand policies,” Claudio Betti, owner of the Spinnaker boutiques in Liguria and Tuscany, said, referring to the WSM fair/event mix and the business&consumer option. “Unfortunately, consumers do not currently recognise the true added value of a sustainable product, but it is a task for the whole supply chain, particularly retailers who have

ARTIST RED, PERFORMER FOR CONVERSE BRAND

Give A Fok-Us Makes A Splash At WSM WSM unveiled the second edition of its sustainble hub Give a Fok-us (first debuted at White Milano in February 2019) envisaged by artistic director Matteo Ward, founder of Wråd brand. This time the spotlight was on the conservation of water and involved a collaboration with the collective of artists DrawLight.Visitors were invited to immerse themselves into the depths of the marine world, in order to understand the damage mankind has inflicted on the oceans. One of the company’s chosen by Ward to participate in give a Fok-us Water was yarn makers Aquafil collects fish nets and transforms them into up cycled nylon called Econyl.


Ph. Marco Pistolesi

BGBL

VENIVIDIVICI

contact with end customers, to support its principles through proper communication. Made in EU could acquire more strength and identity, resulting in a renewed level of competitiveness,” Betti said. Among the brands, Betti singled out MYAR, which recycles military clothing (see page 26). In terms of exhibitors, the third edition of WSM attracted brands such as Vivienne Westwood, which presented stands and tshirts with slogans such as “stop climate change” and “buy less, choose well”, as well as a collaboration with eco-friendly fashion brand 24Bottles. Converse involved young Ethiopian street artist Red (pseudonum of Riet Longo) in a project involving the reuse of canvas scraps from old Chuck Taylor shoes. Venetian bag brand BGBL, launched by Elisabetta Viola in 2018, recycles basketballs and buys new ones for local teams with some of the proceeds from the sales. “We expected a higher turnout because the event is great. We saw more buyers on Saturday, including from Japan and Korea, while on Sunday there were more ordinary visitors,” a BGBL spokeswoman said. “We observed fewer developments than in January and retailers are interested in responsible fashion, while young people are poorly informed,” said others in the space curated by Fondazione Pistoletto-Cittadellarte, which gives visibility to brands on the Fashion B.E.S.T. platform, dedicated to the development of bioethical sustainability in the textile world. “There were more people in January and we met more buyers, while at this edition there was a higher turnout of ordinary people looking around, but

SIMON CRACKER

RBRSL VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

they struggle to buy,” commented a RBRSL spokesman, a Made in Italy sneaker label whose footwear is priced at over 300 euros (not really suitable for an impulse purchase at a trade show). Their unique feature is their use of rubber: more than just a sole, it is a fluid material fused with leather, creating an indistinguishable product. There was similar feedback from the international 3Rd Eye concept showroom, which presented several products by the Venividivici, Enclave Monarchy and Simon Cracker labels. “Ordinary people and buyers passed by, including from Asia: they stop, but it is not easy to approach them,” said a representative of Vanta Design Studio, which creates almost unique garments reusing pieces of traceable denim or cotton. Vanta Design Studio, like other niche green brands that attended WSM, was looking for a distributor for Italy in order to raise its profile and expand its business. What makes the difference compared to an ordinary fashion brand is hearing these words: “It’s not just an economic issue. There is really a lot of materials that can be recycled and not wasted.” ■

Italian Fashion Talent Awards: Winners On Show In anticipation of the IV edition of the Italian Fashion Talents Awards, slated for November 22 to 23 in Salerno, WSM showcased pieces designed by the winners of the 2018 edition and their respective books. The event was made possible thanks to the collaboration of Confartigianato Imprese and Fabio Pietrella, president of the fashion section. The upcoming theme of the 2019 competition will be “Timeless.’ The list of candidates can be found on iftawards.com.

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PESERICO.IT


WSM TALKS

ETHICAL FASHION

PROFITS AND PURPOSE The last edition of WSM was animated by a series of talks on responsible fashion. Different case histories of young visionary Italian and foreign entrepreneurs have provided a series of points for reflection and dialogue with visitors, starting from a common denominator: business must be created and nurtured with good intentions BY ELISABETTA FABBRI

A Gumshoe sneaker with soles made from recycled chewing gum and the campaign to collect chewing gums and win a pair of it

T

he story behind the Dutch brand Gumshoe begs the question: “Why has no one ever thought of this before?”. It all started, one day in Amsterdam, where the municipality started thinking about how used chewing gum could actually be re-used, as each year 1.5 million kilos of the stuff builds up on the streets of the capital (the most common type of waste after cigarette butts). It is expensive to clean up and biodegradation takes 25 years. The municipal authorities appealed to creative minds, expert recyclers and retailers. This was how the idea of a sustainable sneaker came about. Approximately 100 gums are needed to make the soles for a pair of lace-ups and incentivising collection was child’s play. Signs inviting pedestrians to stick on their used gum were posted on walls. People were then asked to take a photo, share it on Instagram and if were lucky, they’d win a pair of Gumshoes. Ad hoc collectors were also installed at schools. Children actively contributed towards the initiative. “Many weren’t even aware that gum is extracted from a tree, but they learned not to throw chewing gum away on the street and that’s what really counts,” explained Mischa Schreuder, creative director of Publicis One (one of the project’s curators) on the talk

show “Re-Fashion 1: it’s not waste until it’s wasted.” The show was one of many events dedicated to responsible fashion at last WSM, the Milanese trade fair/event that unfolded during menswear fashion week, opened to fashion professionals and to the general public. As the Dutch brand ponders the potential of flip flops for its next project, in Switzerland, re-use and recycle veteran brand Fraitag has moved on from its trademark material - old truck canvasses, which it has been turning into bags and accessories since 1993 - for a lighter, softer and more flexible material. The business development manager Guido Fantuzzi explained the new Top (Tarp on Pet) Freitag line uses a recycled, Pfc-free, pastedyed Pet fabric (paste dyeing requires less water, chemical substances and energy). Andrea Rosso - son of OTB’s founder Renzo Rosso and creative director of Diesel licences - is the creator of label MYAR, born out of his passion for vintage military garments which he buys at markets, fashion events or from collectors and reinvents respecting their past. “Each garment has been used by someone, it has its own story, which can be changed by giving it a new lease of life, with a modern vision of the past. I set out without actually knowing what I need to do:

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Ph. Marco Pistolesi

WSM TALKS

which encourages wearers not to throw them away,” La Rocca said, adding that in the beginning, New Life fibre was the primary material (nylon obtained from recovered plastic, editor’s note) and was available in only black and white. “This wasn’t limiting, on the contrary it inspired me to push myself beyond,” La Rocca added. Designer Tiziano Guardini conveyed a message which spoke of the importance of reconnecting oneself with nature, through haute couture. “I wanted to listen to myself, I didn’t start off with the idea of creating a commercial product,” he said. Just to give you an idea, his first project 1. A Tiziano Guardini skirt made of peace silk and Econyl was a fur coat made with pine needles. Guaryarn 2. One of the talks at the last WSM 3. An ARMY dini then went on to dabble in hemp and crude parka 4. The Vanta Design Studio boot at WSM raffia, before getting to grips with non-violent silk (where worms actually complete their life 3 4 cycle) and the regenerated nylon Econyl. While on the topic of primary materials, Alisea Recycled and Reused Objects Design founded by Susanna Martucci is placing its bets on the potential of recycled graphite powder. It all first started with the launch of the Perpetua pencil then developed with eyewear opportunities (eyewear frames in “writing” material), labelling and, given that the Ancient Romans used it for dyeing, the sustainable fashion brand Wråd created t-shirts called Graphi-tee, in fabric dyed using recycled graphite. Jeroen Muijsers, with his company Flocus has created a yarn from a plant, kapok, widespread in South America, I start creating prototypes at my laboratory, the know-how comes from West Africa and Asia, which does not have any harmful effects on hands. But in truth everyone can do it. We all need to recover a certain the environment as it does not require fertilisers or human action degree of craftsmanship, to limit waste so as to ultimately not waste at (apart from the shipment of plants to the factory). It has a silky hand, all,” Rosso said at the fair. Fab Consoli from the brand Blue of a Kind anti-mite and anti-moth properties, with a thermal isolation capacity is also passionate about vintage, revisiting jeans by adding a touch of equivalent to that of goose down. So there is no lack of ideas for young Italian sartoriality and contemporary design.“It‘s a new fashion, based entrepreneurs in the eco and smart fashion industry, but doing busion the assumption that today the market doesn‘t actually need anyness, according to exhibitors and designers at WSM, means honing thing more and there‘s no need for other fashion, you can simply tweak in on the skills that are not always available and having capital. In this existing things,” Consoli said. Vanta Design Studio presented casual regard, professionals like Giusy Cannone come to the rescue, investing wear featuring near-unique items created by the recovery of scrap in startups that have an impact on the theme of sustainability through denim pieces which would otherwise be burned. “In one year we saved Fashion Technology Accelerator. “We want to create synergies for a approximately 300 kilos of material,” the founder Carlotta Robbe Di common utility,” she said. “But be careful to focus on sustainability if Lorenzo said. The headquarters are in Rome and the raw material supyou don’t really believe in it: only those who have a true story emerge,” plier is based in Perugia. “Sustainability is also about having a short she added. Instead, Giusy Bettoni promotes sustainable premium maand traceable Made in Italy supply chain,” she said. The project is run terials and advises through the C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and be three individuals. “Going it alone is complicated, but it’s better: the Sustainable Synergy) hub, which was founded in 2007. “Today the more collaborators you have, the more your lose sight of the concept new generations of creatives have clear ideas and start from differyou are looking to develop,” Carlotta observed. Case histories preent points of view than in the past, when sustainable meant ‘ugly, sented at WSM talks certainly did not end there. Flavia La Rocca, for not perfect and expensive’,” she said. Now with C.L.A.S.S. Educaexample, launched her brand of modular fashion in sustainable materition she dialogues with designers who do not have the raw materials als back in 2013, after professional experiences in PR. “I thought about and through e-commerce provides small sizes (from 1 to 50 meters) those who needed to change during the day, for different occasions of sustainable fabrics. To upcoming designers she recommended: and so I started to create three items which could be combined in eight “Think about where you want to go, ask yourself questions and redifferent ways. In this way product life cycle is lengthened. Modules late to the producers. Then communicate to the consumer: if he is not from new collections can also be combined with those from the past, informed, he struggles to buy responsible fashion .” ■ 1

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TRABALDO TOGNA 1840 – presenta

N AT O P E R VO L A R E A D R I A N C L A Y, N E W Y O R K C I T Y B A L L E T

A D R I A N C L AY D A N Z A I N U N A B I T O R E A L I Z Z ATO C O N T E S S U TO E ST R ATO C U C I TO A M A N O D A S A N T ’A N D R E A


TEXTILE WORLD

AT FIERAMILANO RHO

MILANO UNICA: FABRICS IN THE BLOCKCHAIN AGE Milano Unica will showcase Autumn-winter 2020-2021 textile collections from 600 exhibitors from July 9 to 11. At the fair, the spotlight is on sustainable innovation and the official launch of the e-milanounica.it platform BY ALESSANDRA BIGOTTA

S

ustainability, digitalisation, industry 4.0 will all be key themes at the next edition of Milano Unica, which will open its doors at Milan’s Rho Fieramilano tradegrounds from July 9 to 11. Visitor numbers are expected to be stable year on year. In terms of exhibitors, overall more than 600 are expected, with 465 companies, 93 from abroad, and members of delegations like the Korea and Japan Observatories (with 20 and 30 exhibitors, respectively), Origin Passion and Beliefs trade show (82), the Milano Unica Vintage consortium (4) and a selected group of Milano Unica Designers (4). Looking at the Italian textile sector, it is not surprising that hard times have hit the small and medium-sized companies that make up the backbone of the industry yet again, especially in light of the current macroeconomic climate. According to the business lobby Confindustria Moda and Italian statistics office Istat, exports during the first three months of the year fell on weakening demand from top trading partners and a select number of product categories. For example, exports from top trading partner Germany plunged 18 percent in value terms, offset by double-digit growth from the USA (+15.5 percent), Spain (+11.1 percent) and the United Kingdom (+13.7 percent). In terms of products January to March 2019, the sector was dragged down by a drop in knitted fabrics and cotton textiles in particular, with a 4.2% drop in value. Combed woollen fabrics and fine animal hair were down by 4.7%. Linen fabrics bucked the trend rising 9.5 percent, while carded wool and fine animal hair rose 4.1 percent. Exports of silk was more or less stable, inching up a mere 0.8 percent. In total, during the first three months of the year sales of Italian textile

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1. A buyer at the last edition of Milano Unica 2. Sustainability is one of the hot topics of the exhibition

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DIGITAL INSTRUMENTS SUCH AS BLOCKCHAIN CAN BE CRUCIAL FOR TRANSPARENCY IN TEXTILE

Ercole Botto Poala

exports dropped 2.3 percent to 806.3 million euros, with a trade balance of almost 424 million euros against the former 433,4 million. Imports inched down 2.4 percent, totalling 382.3 million, with the value of Chinese imports rising 2.8 percent to 104 million, though the quantity plummeted 7 percent. “This is a bitter-sweet situation, in which menswear has suffered more than womenswear, especially across sectors like shirting fabrics, which have felt the

pressure from alternative garments, like t-shirts,” Milano Unica president Ercole Botto Poala said. Italian fashion chamber president Carlo Capasa, Sistema Moda Italia chair Marino Vago, as well as other speakers will discuss the state of the Italian sector in a conference kicking off the fair July 9. As worries over the eco crisis continue, Milano Unica will turn the focus to its sustainability showcase, Area Sostenibilità, with the new FancyGreen, EverGreen


FIVE WAYS TO SAY

platform is a service included in the membership fee. The portal is the tip of a digitalisation iceberg, with a considerable ripple effect from the supply chain onwards: “All periods of change bring suffering, but they also bring growth. Digitalisation is an immense opportunity for the textile sector, because it has an effect on several fronts: transparency through instruments such as blockchain, increased productivity thanks to the internet, machinery, and innovation within the collections. But we’re lagging behind. Fashion, which has always been exclusive, must become inclusive and learn to embrace novelty. The Italian system is lacklustre and Europe is no better. In the EU, investments in technology are approximately six times lower than in China and this affects everything, our sector is no exception.” ■

F/W 2020/2021

Around the value of made in Italy, the new collections presented at Milano Unica show a new commitment to innovation, to enrich fabrics with high level performances and with sustainable contents. The goal is to conquer consumers of every generation at any latitude

TOLLEGNO 1900

BOTTO GIUSEPPE

MARZOTTO

The Rainmaker line for a modern outwear: classic style with a high-tech soul

A particular surface gives this fabric in stone washed flanelled wool a contemporary twist

A fabric in 100% bi-stretch wool from the B-Dynamic new collection

REGGIANI

VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO

Traditional and natural fabrics in wool, mohair wool, cotton and wool/viscose are enhanced by stretch and special finishings

H.O.P.E. means How to Optimize People and Environment: the name of a sustainable collection by the iconic Italian wool mill

Ph. Erdna

concept. The project, which was first introduced in 2017, continues highlight the progress made by the fair’s participants. “It is meant to underscore its strategic purpose, instead of it just being a marketing tool,” Botto Poala said, noting sweeping changes to ensure an eco-sustainabile industry needs to take place within the supply chain. Expectations are also running high for developments of e-milanounica. it, the platform born from a strategic partnership with Pitti Immagine. The pilot of the digital fair debut in February, and has since been completed.”The trial period went well. 150 companies have already joined e-milanounica.it, a key instrument, especially for capturing potential international customers who aren’t able to make it to Milan,” Botto Poala said, adding that showcasing on the info commerce

MILANO UNICA’S FORECAST

THIS IS SET TO BE AN “ECOROTIC” SEASON Stefano Fadda, artistic director of Milano Unica, has coined the term “ecorotic” to describe the Autumnwinter 2020/2021 season, featuring cross-contaminations typical of the social network age with increasing attention towards anything worthy of an “eco” suffix. Fadda has identified the following macro-themes: Ecorotic Drama, Ecorotic Circus and Ecorotic Eden. Sources of inspiration in Ecorotic Drama include emotions evoked by usettling films by David Lynch or Ridley Scott, blended with the sensuality of portraits of Man Ray and the allure of silent cinema from the Twenties. Luxurious and natural materials reign supreme: cashmere, silk and alpaca, all sourced from an ecological supply chain. Ecorotic Circus is characterised by vibrant atmospheres, reminiscent of Tim Burton and Luc Besson with colours ranging from “mad red” to midnight blue, with an array of finishings ranging from engravings, quilt effects, houndstooth and macro ottoman on linen and silk bases. Lastly, Ecorotic Eden celebrates the power of nature and its wildest side, evoking Hayao Miyazaki, Steven Spielberg as well as images of Solve Sunsbe. Inspired by gnarled roots, jacquard fabrics rub shoulders with faux furs, lurex, embroidery, gauzing, whereas patterns are organic and abstract.(a.b.)

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TEXTILE WORLD

NEXT SEPTEMBER IN PARIS

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PREMIÈRE VISION AND TEXWORLD: THE DUO IS BACK About 2,000 exhibitors at Première Vision and 1,000 at Texworld: different fairs, but both focused on hot topics like responsible production. In the meanwhile, Première Vision is ready to launch a fair in the United States BY ALESSANDRA BIGOTTA

Y

arns, fabrics, leather, designs, accessories and clothing are the six fields of expertise that give life to Première Vision Paris, which will unfold September 17 to 19 at Paris’ Nord Villepinte. About 2,000 exhibitors are expected at the fairs, in-line with the number of exhibitors recorded at the September 2018 edition. Italy remains the most prominent exhibiting country, with around 650/700 exhibitors, more than 30 percent of the total. Among the main strategic developments of this edition is the Smart Creation Area. Formerly known as The Smart Square, the area was first launched in 2015. Since its inception, the section now spans 1,200 square metres bringing together 50 exhibitors dedicated to responsible production, up 80 percent (30 companies) compared to 2018. “Committing to responsible design and eco-design is an investment in the future, because consumers view it as a fundamental buying value,” Chantal Mallingrey, the fair’s marketing director and smart creation program manager said. The importance of a new “eco-conception” will be also at the center of Première Vision Leather, with over 300 hand-selected exhibitors slated to showcase in Hall 3. The fair has partnered with the very first Sustainable Leather Forum, which will take place September 16 and has been organised by the Conseil National du Cuir at the FNTP House in Paris. Another highlight will involve sportswear fabrics, inside the reinforced Sport & Tech area. Hall 6 will bring together 80 weavers, including eight new entries. According to a recent study, French consumers wear sports wear one day out of five and 25 percent of them say sportswear is “trendy,”

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1. A fabric at Texworld Paris 2. Buyers at Première Vision

adding that they seek the same functionality in their everyday clothing as they do in their sportswear apparel. As the focus turns to the world of sportswear and functionality, Première Vision will launch a trade show dedicated to this growing trend, in the United States. The first edition of Première Vision Sport will be held in Portland, the capital of sportswear and footwear, on August 14-15. In Paris, the fair will expand its online offerings through the B2B e-commerce platform Première Vision Marketplace that was launched last February. Emerging creativity will be again at the centre of the Pv Awards. The winners will be announced September 17. In September Texworld will also take the spotlight. Organized by Messe Frankfurt France, it will unfold, as usual at the Le Bourget fairground, September 16 to 19, attracting thousands of professional international visitors. Less than 30,000 visitors from 110 countries are expected in this

“fairytale land of fashion,” as organisers describe it. The fair will welcome around 1,000 exhibitors from all over the world. Out of the total 10 percent of them tout a commitment to sustainability. Particularly appreciated by buyers is the Small Order Itinerary, a roster of exhibitors who are poised to satisfy small quantities or order requests to designers, particularly small brands and collections. Texworld will showcase six sections under its umbrella: Texworld Paris, Texworld Denim, Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, Leatherworld and Shawls & Scarves Paris. As usual, during the September session, a conference program will take place. Divided in two rounds the meetings will unfold between the Agora Hall 4, where conferences about innovation in its broadest sense will be held, and the Agora Hall 2, a space that will offer an informative program to pinpoint market trends, new consumption patterns and the social impact of fashion. ■


UPCOMING EDITION WILL TAKE PLACE SEPTEMBER 25 AND 26

Filo: FiloFlow Project Exceeds Expectations “With this project we demonstrate our belief in sustainability as a commitment for the entire supply chain,” said Filo trade show director Paolo Monfermoso

The Filo yarn and fibers B2B fair slated for September 25 and 26 at Milan’s Palazzo delle Stelline is investing in sustainability with FiloFlow, a new supply chain tracking project which aims to enhance and highlight the exhibitors’ production processes and sustainable products. “The participating companies have welcomed this initiative with enthusiasm,” stressed the fair’s director, Paolo Monfermoso. “As a result, many more are taking part than we expected.” FiloFlow is divided into a specific trends areas and higlights the top companies in the sector though its catalogue. Interested participants are required to certify their participation by answering a questionnaire. “Sustainability must be achieved from a supply chain perspective,” Monfermoso emphasized. “We deeply believe this, as evidenced by our collaborations with Sistema Moda Italia and Milano Unica. We will be present at Milano Unica’s Trends Area during its July 9 to 11

Munich Fabric Start To Launch THE ITALIAN   INDUSTRY   A NewYARN   Sourcing Area IN  2018-­‐2019    

will be news at the next edition Notes by  There Confindustria   Moda  -­‐  Centro  Studi  for                                                   of Munich Fabric Start, the textile fair in

Munich, which is returning to the limelight from September 3 to 5 at the MOC centre. A Sourcing Area will be created inside the Business Club Munich, rightfacross the street 1. The industry   balance   sheet   or  2018   from the MOC: a hub showcasing around garment manufacturers specialized After   some  70years   in   a   minor   key,   the   2018   balance   sheet   for   the   Italian   in menswear, womenswear, accessories, couture and tailoring products. “This will and   linen   yarns)   was   s (understood   as   comprising   production   of   wool,   cotton,   be a completely innovative format,” said edition.” Filo has also been working withanticipated  Sebastian in   the   preliminary   balance   sheet   published   in   January   on   occasi Klinder, managing director of ACIMIT, the association of Italian textile Munich Fabric Start. “The Sourcing Area will machinery manufacturers. As a first step,edition  of  Pamaze itti  Filati,   the  industry  closed  the  year  2018  with  a  positive  evolutio both in terms of exhibitors, as well Filo was present at the association’s press as visitors,” added. The tlocation and  a  Klinder total  that   had  risen   o  above  2.9  billion  euro.               conference during ITMA in Barcelona. Thea  +3.2%  increase,   “is worth while in itself. It is a high-quality main theme of the September edition will listed factory building dated 1926, reviving Differently  from  the  most  recent  past,  over  the  course  of  2018  the  foreign   be Metamorphosis: “The mirror of a phase the industrial Bauhaus style after highthat is not a period of change, but a changefavorable  tquality o  Italian  refurbishment: yarns,  and  to  wthe ools  perfect and  linens   in  pfor articular,  with  a  resultin venue of period,” revealed Filo’s director of creathis new project”. a.b.)

tivity and style, Gianni Bologna.

(a.b.)increase in  exports.        

THE 2018 BALANCE SHEET

million euros (+2,9 percent) vs 884 Italian Yarn Industry: million euros (-0,2 percent) of imports. One must not forget, however, how Exports Return To the results for the various segments An Upward Cline and the average yarn prices can be influenced by increases in raw material During the recent edition of the Pitti prices. Last year Italian spinning as a Filati trade exhibition in Florence, whole experienced an inversion of the ended with an attendance of 5.350 previous trend, with exports returning international buyers, Confindustria to an upward cline. The industry, as Moda and Istat published facts & Confindustria Moda underlines, had figures regarding the Italian yarn not shown an increase in foreign sales industry in 2018. After some years since 2011, to the exclusion of 2015, in a minor key, the balance sheet for a year in which exports settled at the sector (comprising production of wool, cotton and linen yarns) was quite 2014 levels. The Italian yarn industry trade balance again showed a deficit satisfactory. The year was closed with but to the tune of only 36 million a positive evolution in sales, which euros, gaining almost 26 million euros grew by +3.2 percent, for a total in in a single year. Wool spinning was excess of 2.9 billion euros. Differently from the recent past, over the course of once again the preponderant segment, 2018 foreign markets were favorable to accounting for 83.3 percent of Italian yarns (and to wools and linens in industry turnover, followed by cotton particular), with a resulting considerable yarns with almost 14 percent and linen yarns with 2.8 percent. (a.b.) increase in exports, totalling 848

The Italian (2015-2018 Table 1  –  The  IYarn talian  YIndustry arn  Industry  (2015-­‐2018  ) )    (1)

Figure 1  –  Italian  S

Millions euro current Millions euro   at  cat urrent   value   value

2015 Sales

-­‐2,7

2017

871

   Var.  %

0,0

13,9

3,2

-­‐3,3

-­‐0,2

2,7

828

824

848

-­‐4,9

-­‐0,4

2,9

Imports

849

881

886

884

   Var.  %

1,9

3,8

0,6

-­‐0,2

-­‐54

-­‐62

-­‐36

Trade Balance Apparent  Consumption

2,8

2018

1 820 1  759 1  755 1  803

   Var.  % Exports

2016

2 917 2  837 2  837 2  928

   Var.  % Value  of  Production

(% share  by  segmen

1 798 1  813 1  817 1  839

   Var.  %

0,8

0,2

1,2

29,2

29,1

29,0

Structural Indicators  (%) Exports/Sales

29,8

Imports/Apparent Consumption 47,2 48,6 48,8 48,1 Source:  ISTAT  and  internal  survey  data  processed  by  Confindustria Wool,  cotton  and  linen  yarns  

Wool Yarns

   

         

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Co


FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

PITTI FILATI 85

Jumping: Into The Future Sustainability and innovation are the keywords of the Pitti Filati world. The recent edition in Florence confirmed its megatrend marked by collections capable of combining a green outlook with high performance. The colour palette varied widely and was in-harmony with futuristic materials, special designs, weights and shapes, while new styles set the fall-winter 2020/2021 collections apart from the rest.

FILPUCCI

Research, style and fashion for the internationally renowned Tuscan company, which on the occasion of Pitti Filati reveals its increasingly responsible approach, with an expansion of its product range through a whole host of new items with a strong DNA. Among the new season’s products are Re.Verso™ Baby Camel, RWS certified extrafine organic merino wool, Re.Verso™ cashmere, organic linens and FSC certified viscose.

BY ALBERTO CORRADO

ZEGNA BARUFFA LANE BORGOSESIA

The aspirational mood of this collection starts with the most authentic and recognisable fall and winter colours in the city. A universe of colours starting from grey and blue with all the nuances in between, up to yellow gold and white, with reflections of endless crystals.

LANIFICIO DELL’OLIVO

The company is known for its Going Green programme, which takes it to the forefront of sustainability and corporate social responsibility. The new collection offers innovative and unique yarns that not only provide a great effect but are also crafted with a particular hand, focusing on multicolour patterns and soft and comfortable cloths and voiles. The materials used are the traditional noble fibres: alpaca, mohair and wool, along with cashmere and silk.

MIROGLIO TESSILE

The leitmotif of the new winter season is Mother Nature and the consequent need to become more aware and protective of our planet. A concept of humility closely linked to that of nature in its colours, raw materials and final mixtures. The dominant palette revolves around infinite variations of brown and pastel colours, both sophisticated and luminous.

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FALL-WINTER 2020/2021

TOLLEGNO

1900

For Tollegno 1900 being innovative and sustainable means investing in research and technology, respecting the environment and people. For this edition the company presents a new technology that combines innovation and a green approach. These are the Sergio Sala’s

FILMAR

Product quality and sustainability are at the heart of Filmar’s advanced technologies and processes.Starting from the company’s core business, five leading products are introduced, the result of cutting-edge research combining the natural essence of 100 percent Egyptian compact organic cotton with the nobility of cashmere and silk. That’s not all, though: this year, Filmar has a section dedicated to athletics, with technical and highperformance yarns, where compact cotton is blended with fibres with a strong tech imprinting, first and foremost nylon and recycled polyester.

MANIFATTURA SESIA

Excellence is the main thing you see when you look at this company’s yarns, produced and manufactured entirely in Italy. Among the ingredients of the fall-winter 2020/2021 collection are superfine merino wool, top quality cashmere, warm natural alpaca and bio wool, for garments that nod to the world of athletics. Washingballs and Brushing Balls, which ensures zero impact washing and finishing. The two methods will be applied to a large part of the Tollegno 1900 collection, which pays particular attention to the yarns in the Harmony family.

CARIAGGI

Once again, Cariaggi translated the codes of our time, offering new, never before seen combinations of cashmere. Among the new introductions to the collection, a carded Super Feather yarn particularly stands out (100 percent cashmere NM 1,100). This yarn has the special quality of being asymmetric and wavy, for a unique, soft and voluminous effect. The colour chart focuses on a palette divided between whites and pastels, between the lightest and brightest neutrals and a mix of delicate mineral and natural shades to best enhance the cashmere fibres.

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MARCHI E FILDI

A virtuous combination of elements culminating in the creation of a collection of pure contemporary luxury, embodying a new level of innovation linked to production that is certified sustainable. The development of technical and performance products in natural, synthetic and artificial fibres is particularly important. This expertise is strengthening the ambitious development of the textile group at an international level.

BOTTO GIUSEPPE

Luxury is at the heart of of Botto Giuseppe, which uses the finest raw materials such as cashmere, superfine wools and fine silk blends. The brand’s style research focuses on the sustainability of fibres and the production process. Innovation is a constant, but always with an eye towards low environmental impact. From a chromatic point of view, two directions were proposed: the first is inspired by shades of nature, brought to life by metallic reflections, and the second offers artificial colours, with contemporary reinterpretations of traditional combinations and processes.

IAFIL

LINEAPIÙ

The Tuscan yarn maker unfurled two new innovations: Giselle Fluo and Genius. The first is a viscose treated with a fluorescent effect, available in yellow and green and was made using the “solid fluo” dyeing technique, with the use of fluorescent pigments. The second was

crafted using a new metal fibre which incorporates holographic effects, generating a kaleidoscope of colours for the eye to behold.

Iafil Industria Ambrosiana Filati presents Perino by Woolyarns, the innovative yarn produced in New Zealand and distributed by the company exclusively for Italy and Europe, thanks to a recently signed commercial

ARMAN AVETIKAN

Monsieur Arman

True luxury is made with artisanship and uniqueness. with Arman Avetikyan, the creative mind behind Froy and the winner of the Lineapiù Talent competition BY ALBERTO CORRADO

Arman Avetikyan won the third edition of the Lineapiù Talents competition, just over a year ago. Though it wasn’t that long ago, it was enough to leave his mark. The young Armenian designer, who graduated in dashion design from Moscow’s State University of Design and Technology has also worked in the design department of with Giorgio Armani. Avetikyan has forged a path inspired by a multi-faceted and poetic style. Now the time has come for his brand Froy to embrace a new direction. What are the building blocks of your creative approach? Where do you start from? The entire collection made for Talents Lineapiù gravitated around a sort of polis, in which people of different backgrounds, origins and professions meet and interact. Classic knitwear items are revisited like a pictorial puzzle, through plays on clear colours like white, black and Persian Blue. From my architectural studies in Moscow up to today I have acquired a very clear and precise vision of creativity. When I design I think of different worlds, different cities, different cultures, I capture the connections between apparently different aesthetics. What is the biggest challenge for you? There are many, but perhaps the greatest has ben opening up even more to what stimulates me in everyday life. I’m 30 and art, architecture and fashion are, after all, a part of my day-to-day life. This is why I could define my vision of fashion as a mix of sophistication and urbanity. With the collection presented at Pitti Filati you launched a new concept of knitwear. How did you work on this first capsule? It was not easy and a lot of study was required. I wanted the capsule to be something innovative on the existing scene. This is difficult for knitwear, which seems to have done it all. This is why I thought about combining the yarn transformation process into a physical and three-dimensional object, through traditional and innovative techniques which materialise forms, finishings and details.

cooperation agreement. Perino by Woolyarns combines the high-quality fibres of brushtail possum with cashmere, silk and fine merino to create yarns with infinite possibilities.

What plans does the future have in store? Undoubtedly to make Froy grow and travel continuously, physically and mentally, exploring original solutions, using knit as though it were a fabric, reconciling tradition and innovation, using materials and processes to obtain hybrid and versatile surfaces which actually communicate.

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XHULJANO MALAJ

PIETRO FADDA

CHIARA DE NIGRIS

MILANO MODA GRADUATE for

Milano Moda Graduate: The Winners Of The Fifth Edition ORGANIZED BY CAMERA NAZIONALE DELLA MODA ITALIANA, MILANO MODA GRADUATE BRINGS THE BEST TALENTS FROM ITALIAN FASHION SCHOOLS TO THE CATWALK. THE FINAL ACT OF THE FIFTH EDITION TOOK PLACE AT BASE IN MILAN ON 14TH JUNE, INAUGURATING MILANO MODA UOMO Francesco Murano, John Lloyd Palomares and Ottavia Molinari: these were the talents awarded on the catwalk of Milano Moda Graduate, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana project launched in 2015 with the aim of raising the profile of outstanding students at Italian fashion schools, accelerating and supporting their inclusion in the fashion industry. The eight finalists, which each paraded six outfits at BASE in Milan, included Francesco Murano from Campania, born in 1997, from IED Milano, who won the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana Award, consisting of a monetary prize of 10,000 euros to support

his professional development. YKK Italia, a leading company in luxury fastening accessories and a main partner of Milano Moda Graduate, selected John Lloyd Palomares (NABA Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti) as the winner of the YKK Prize. The Filipino designer, who has created looks focused on the use of fastening accessories, was awarded with a cash prize and the opportunity to participate in a seminar organized by YKK Group at its headquarters in Japan. The Vogue Talents award went to twenty-one-year-old Ottavia Molinari from Milan, a student at the Istituto Marangoni, securing her an exclusive editorial in Vogue

Italia. The winners were chosen by an eminent international jury chaired by Angela Missoni and composed of Carlo Capasa (CNMI, Chairman), Giuseppe Angiolini (Camera Italiana Buyer Moda, Honorary President), Gianluca Cantaro (Nowfashion, Editor-In-Chief), Alessandra Carra (Agnona, CEO), Michele Ciavarella (Style Magazine Corriere della Sera, Deputy Editor), Jacopo Etro (Etro, Creative Director Textile and Home), Tyler Franch (Hudson Bay, Canada, Fashion Director), Caroline Issa (Tank, CEO), David Martin (Odda, EditorIn-Chief), Christopher Morency (Highsnobiety, Editor-At-Large), Michael Philouze


rella, President of Confartigianato. Milano Moda Graduate involves, in addition to the collective fashion shows and static exhibitions, a series of tutoring activities with individuals and companies that are established in the industry. At this edition, the participants in the initiative visited important textile companies such as Albini, Taroni, Clerici and Limonta; had exclusive access to the Giorgio Armani couture line, Armani Privé; implemented their knowledge of social networks, thanks to a workshop with Laura Milani, Head of Luxury at Instagram and Facebook, Milano Moda Graduate’s social media partner; put their

ENRICO VETTORAZZO

CINZIA CERRI

JESSICA DI LUPO

(Vogue, Menswear Editor), Sara Sozzani Maino (CNMI International Brand Ambassador, Deputy Editor-In-Chief Vogue Italia and Head of Vogue Talents), Ted Stafford (Hearst Group, Men’s Health US, Fashion Director), Tomaso Trussardi (Trussardi, Chairman), Roberta Valentini (Penelope, Buyer) and Hitoshi Yamaguchi (YKK Italia, President). The CNMI event also included an exhibition of special projects developed by students of fashion schools involved in the initiative. One of the most notable projects was created by Veronica Cascella, a student at IUAD Accademia della Moda, which was awarded by Giuseppe Mazza-

pictorial creativity to the test at the Castello Sforzesco Scuola Superiore d’Arte Applicata, where a special meeting was held with fashion icon Anna Dello Russo. The discovery of the YKK Italia world was fundamental, providing the new talents with its precious fastening accessories and mentoring activities through workshops designed to show how zips and buttons can be expressive and not only functional means of a sartorial creation. YKK can provide a custom-made service, responding to the needs of brands and designers with accessories that come in an extensive range of materials, designs and colors.

www.cameramoda.it


NEWS

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO MUSEUM

Sustainability Exhibit Unveiled Through the Salvatore Ferragamo brand’s own exploration and experimentation with eco-friendly materials and cuttingedge eco fabrics, sustainability takes the spotlight at Palazzo Spini Feroni in Florence, during Pitti Uomo

The “Sustainable Thinking” exhibition at the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum (Palazzo Spini Feroni) in Florence runs until 8 March 2020. Conceived by Stefania Ricci (director of the Museum and the Ferragamo Foundation) was made possible through the contribution of C.L.A.S.S. Hub founder Giusy Bettoni, art historian and scientific director of Florence’s Museo degli Innocenti Arabella S. Natalini, Vogue Italia editor Sara Maino and sustainable designer Marina Spadafora. The exhibit highlights the family-run company’s pioneering research and use of recycled, innovative and a natural fabrics like hemp, cellophane and fish skin. The showcase also shined a light on the brand’s more recent strides in becoming a more sustainable brand as well as the innovations that are chanigng the market as a whole. Organizers showcased the traceable cotton linter fibres and Bemberg a rayon yarn made by Japanese yarn manufacturer Asahi Kasei, as well as Amni Soul Eco by Rodia-Solvay, the first 6.6 polyamide in the world with improved biodegradability, able to decompose within around five years in controlled landfills. Also on display was Q-Nova, made by elastic manufacturer

With Linificio E Canapificio Nazionale Italy Begins Producing Linen Again Fulgar. Q-Nova is a fibre obtained from regenerated raw materials, via a mechanical process, which was used in an ensemble created by eco-designer Tiziano Guardini. Also on show, was the work of Re.VerSo a a brand with an advanced, integrated, traceable and entirely Italian-based supply chain that recycles pre-consumer wool, cashmere and camel hair waste, which can be transformed into yarns and fabrics, epitomized that purpose of this exhibition. The Portuguese Tintex Textile was selected for its innovative dyeing and finishing techniques and for its sustainable jersey. Sustainable Thinking even the dummies are green (see photo). Such as those of Bonaveri which, with B Natural, has created the first biodegradable dummy in the world, made from B Plast, a bio-plastic derived from sugar cane, and finished with B Paint, a natural paint made exclusively from renewable organic substances.(e.f.)

CASHMERE AND CAMEL HAIR MANUFACTURERS INSTITUTE

Transparency Is The Priority

The CCMI, the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, which represents the interests of the textiles sector specialising in fine fabrics such as cashmere, camelhair and fine wool, met recently in Biella. The main areas of discussion included the extremely costly issue of counterfeit cashmere, which brings into question the integrity of raw material producers and their transparency towards consumers. “The expertise of those that purchase garments and those that want to make informed choices is increasing, noted Fabio Garzena, chairman of the association. These are all elements which have long represented the value-added nature of Italian textiles and Biellese textiles in particular,” Garzena said. As such, the CCMI reiterated its commitment to scouring the world market for incorrectly-labelled garments, and is also poised to take legal action in some cases. It also supports textile analysis laboratories across the world and research institutes in the development of new animal fibre identification technologies. (e.f.)

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After over 60 years, linen is once again being cultivated in Italy. This is thanks to a project by Linificio e Canapificio Nazionale of the Marzotto Group. This linen initiative aims to create a dialogue between businesses and local communities by overseeing the supply chain and overseein the quality of raw materials and ensuring traceability and sustainable practices. Italian linen will cultivated in the hills of Bergamo, a city about an hour away from Milan. The production is expected to reach about 1000 kilos of fibre, which will be spun at Villa D’Almé where Linificio e Canapificio Nazionale is equipped with historic and next-generation machines. The yarn has already been purchased exclusively by cotton shirt fabrics specialist Albini Group, as well as the Martinelli Ginetto, producers of fabrics and yarns for home furnishings. (e.f.)


NEWS

PAOLO BODO

«Thindown Becomes More Eco-friendly» The natural down fabric produced by NIPI (Natural Insulation Products Inc.) in Italy is preparing for new goals, as Paolo Bodo, the company’s global CEO and major shareholder, recounts

How has Thindown evolved since its launch in 2015? It is continually improving quality standards. There have already been attempts to imitate us, but they will never reach our levels of quality. To emphasise the fact that it is made in Italy, from July we will offer it with a “spoken” selvage, a further guarantee of the product’s uniqueness. Who are your biggest customers today? From the outset we targeted the fashion world, reaching the major luxury brands. With brands like Cucinelli, Max Mara, Burberry, Paul & Shark, Mackintosh and Eddie Bauer we are also working on co-branding and co-marketing projects. We had subsequent success with sportswear and footwear. We have only recently approached the outdoor world. What are your major buyer countries? We started with a “scattershot” approach to sales to raise the product’s profile worldwide and then we focused on Italy, US, Japan and South Korea. The next step is to develop the European market through a network of agents and to consolidate our presence in the US, where we will open a branch by the end of 2019. We created a unit in China this year and, having won over sportswear brand Anta, we will be the technical sponsor of Chinese athletes at the upcoming Winter Olympics.

1 2

1. Paolo Bodo, global CEO of NIPI 2. Thindown fabric, certified by RDS (Responsible Down Standard) and Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Class I

What is Thindown’s annual turnover? In 2018 we reached 5.5 million euros, up 20% compared to 2017 and this year we expect similar growth. How much do you invest in research and where do you envisage new development possibilities? Innovation is at the heart of our project and we invest around 20% of revenue in research. At Milano Unica we will preview a new eco-friendly product, Thindown Recycled, made with 100% recycled down and containment fabric. We have started a collaboration with Dupont to create a product designed for outdoor use of Sorona bio-based fiber Thindown and we are working on an innovative blend of Thindown and Kevlar to create a very high-performance fabric that is the most resistant and thermal fabric in the world. Beyond fashion, I can envisage potential developments in construction, especially in relation to soundproofing and thermal insulation.  (e.f.)

Herno Opens Laboratory For Innovative Fabrics The Novara-based company Herno recently opened new division dedicated to the research and development of innovative fabrics that are unique to the brand. Dubbed Officina Tessile, the laboratory is the part of ceo Claudio Marenzi’s larger plan to streamline production and ensure more quality control. The company’s lab will work in-tandem with the style department in order to experiment with new fabrics and create more performance textiles that are unique and exclusive to the Herno brand. New fabrics debuted in the Spring Summer 2020 collection (distinguished by a specific label, in the picture) such us washed cottons, membranesinfused linens, fresh wool and stretch jersey.(e.f.)

ON SALE IN THE FALL OF 2020

Vitale Barberis Canonico Honors Yasuto Kamoshita With Capsule During Milan’s mens fashion week, upscale wool mill Vitale Barberis Canonico celebrated Japanese designer Yasuto Kamoshita (pictured in photo) with a capsule collection of limited edition garments dubbed Between. Consisting of 12 items, Between was unveiled at Vitale Barberis Canonico’s Milan showroom on via Solferino 23. The Biella-based textile maker presented an array of jackets, coats and trousers were crafted with technical fibres especially for the designer of Camoshita United Arrows. The project has been in the making for three years and involved Kamoshita’s close collaboration with the wool manufacturing company team coordinated by the creative director Francesco Barberis Canonico. The limited edition collection will go on sale at United Arrows and Mr Porter in the fall of 2020.  (e.f.)

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SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTIONS

Courtesy of Pixabay

Consumer Awareness Grows, Fashion Industry Is No Exception Research commissioned by Cotton Council International at Harris Insight & Analytics highlights consumer concern about sustainability in the food, automotive and clothing sectors

Growing consumer concern about whether or not they are making conscious purchases is rising, all over the world. From food to cars, awareness is growing and fashion is no exception. According to research conducted by Harris Insight & Analytics, commissioned by the International Cotton Council International (nonprofit organization which strives to promote use of cotton under its Cotton Usa trademark) in 2017, 61 percent of all consumers are worried about whether or not their clothes are sustainable. Out of 7,365 interviews in the United States, United Kingdom, India, Germany, Italy, Mexico and China, about 86 percent of those individuals contemplated the eco-sustainabile integrity of purchases in general from appliances, to food, to cars. When asked why, 41 percent said it was “the right thing to do,” while

39 percent said they wanted to protect the environment. Another 38 percent said they wanted to support companies that are operating their businesses in a way that protects the environment. In terms of raw materials like cotton, 83 percent of all those interview said that cotton was safe for the environment. American cotton was deemed safe by 69 percent, while Australian cotton was regarded as safe by 65 percent, followed by Indian cotton (64 percent), African (60 percent), Chinese (56 percent) and Uzbek (53 percent). The results of the study showed that promoting cotton as a sustainable fiber could help brands, clients and retailers communicate eco-sustainability across the board to consumers who associate sustainability more with pure cotton, over other materials like rayon, spandex, silk and wool.  (e.f.)

DIGITAL PRINT REINVENTS FABRICS

Untraditional Tailoring For Men By Sensitive With its fall-winter 2020/21 collection, Sensitive Fabrics by Eurojersey will offer a range of versatile, crease-free and breathable fabrics for an impeccable, fitting look for men. Dubbed “Untraditional Tailoring,” the new collection is inspired by traditional mens fashion and will now be available in a contemporary, high-tech version. Scottish patterns, twill, gabardine and tweed are perfectly defined on Sensitive Fabrics, while hyper-realistic patterns are imprinted on the ultra-flat surface of the fabrics with 3D effects thanks to digital printing by Eurojersey. Designed to reinvent trousers, bomber jackets, trench coats and even classic formal dresses, they make easy-to-wash garments that can be cleaned in a washing machine and are quick to dry, with no ironing required. (e.f.)

Riri’s Aquazip Evolves Into Aquatyre Performance, innovation and design are the cornerstones of a new zip launched by Riri, the Swiss group specialised in the production of high-end zip fastenings and buttons. The new entry in the Riri zip family is called Aquatyre and is an evolved version of the Aquazip model. It draws inspiration from the world of sport, cycling in particular, palpable in the design of its notches, featuring a bike tyre-inspired texture. Towards the end of 2018,Chequers Capital acquired a majority stake in Riri from funds advised by Gilde Buy Out Partners.(e.f.)

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NEWS

THE ZIP IS NATURE FRIENDLY

Ykk Ups Its Eco Game With GreenRise and Natulonn Zipper maker presents two new eco-friendly lines three years after the launch of the Eco-Dye technology

Sustainability is a key theme for Ykk, the Japanese zipper maker, both in terms of manufacturing and product integrity. Ykk defined its stance in 2016 with the launch of its Eco-Dye technology, which almost entirely eliminates the use of water within dyeing processes. Now with the launch of its eco-friendly GreenRise and Natulon zips (in the picture), the company inches closer and closer to its sustainable goals. GreenRise is made from bioplastic obtained from sugar cane. Natulon is made from upcycled Pet plastic from bottles, as well as used fibres and polyester scraps. Their production is characterised by lower levels of energy consumption and CO2 emissions. Within the Natulon range, chemical recycled zips are infinitely reusable and are recommended for use by brands who aim to produce garments featuring a large proportion of recycled materials. Ykk also has committed itself to eliminating a series of hazardous chemical substances from its production processes by 2020, including detergent surfactants and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons found in dyes. (e.f.)

Chargeurs Interfodere Italia Launches New Brand After its acquisition of Precision Custom Coatings (PCC), an American company specialised in interfacings, Chargeurs Interfodere Italia has launched a new brand on the market: Chargeurs*PCC. The incorporation of Chargeurs*PCC will broaden the company’s range of products into the worlds of undergarments and sports wear, in addition to Chargeurs’ existing offering of women’s and men’s clothing garments, which includes performance wear and shirts. The company already produces high-performance finishes and seamless tape materials, as well as a variety of unique and decorative applications. This new, solid commercial and production framework will propel Chargeurs’ technical expertise worldwide.  (e.f.)

BIRTHDAY IN PROVENCE

Jacquemus Dazzles At 10 Years With Swarovski Collab At the end of June, the Jacquemus brand celebrated its 10-year anniversary with a Spring-Summer 2020 fashion show in Alpesde-Haute-Provence, France, amid the sprawling fields of lavender, which were in full bloom. For the occasion, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus crafted a collection that literally sparkled, through a collaboration with Swarovski. Earrings with cascades of crystals, sandals with bejewelled heels, lavish dresses and decorated T-shirts were among the main looks on the hot pink runway. “These Swarovski pieces reinforce the image of fantastic characters, that are almost too sophisticated for the context. Their splendour is a departure from what you would expect from a Jacquemus show, yet they are perfectly in-tune with the artisan spirit that sets the brand apart,” the designer said. (e.f.)

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Carvico Steps Into Cycling Technical fabric manufacturer Carvico took a bite into the cycling clothing area dressing cyclists and volunteers at the recent Dles Dolomites Marathon. The Bergamo-based company provided over 10,000 polyester waistcoats that were made through the recovery of over 72 thousand Pet bottles, a process that prevented the emission of 4,600 kilos of CO2 into the atmosphere. (e.f.)


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INTERVIEW

GREG LAUREN

“MY STYLE? IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT DESTROYED ELEGANCE” A versatile American artist, actor and designer of his own line of men’s high-end clothing, Greg Lauren is Ralph Lauren’s nephew. This detail is no small matter: it has enabled him to grow up in a world of style and aesthetic details.

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1. Greg Lauren 2. Some proposals of the special capsule designed by Greg Lauren for Paul & Shark, recently presented in Paris

BY CARLA MERCURIO

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reg Lauren belongs to the growing ranks of versatile artists who view fashion design as a way to express their personal narrative, creating a more immediate connection with the public. It is a particularly natural landing place for Lauren, who being Ralph Lauren’s nephew, has had a fast-track entry into the fashion world. A painter and actor, Lauren designs his own clothing line and has worked on numerous collaborations with well-known brands in the industry, in which he expresses his stylistic hallmark, characterized by unusual mixes of fabrics and garments that create real wearable works of art. Recently, Paul & Shark asked Lauren, in light of his sensitivity, to interpret a few of its iconic garments: this encounter resulted in a special capsule collection that was presented in Paris last month. The fashion empire’s scion discusses it in this interview, in which he reveals the deepest sense of his style, within the context of fashion, art and family influences. Sterling Ruby launched his first clothing collection at Pitti Uomo, you debuted in 2011 with yours: why so many artists are attracted by fashion? When I started my collection, it was a direct result of my work as an artist, it was born from the questions I was asking myself and exploring as a painter. I learned to sew as an artist needing to take a look at my relationship to fashion and its connection to identity and image development. So, I had a very deep, personal statement I needed to express in clothes. I think as the rules have been broken, and as indivi-

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duality and creativity is the “new luxe”, more artists see fashion as a way to express their own personal narrative. And there is a more immediate connection to the audience. Why and how did you approach fashion and what is the link between your art and your menswear collection? I learned to sew so that I could make the 50 most iconic and classic menswear pieces...out of paper. Why do we wear what we wear, who do we want to be, who are we allowed to be, are all questions I look to answer...by exploring the male archetypes as seen in clothes. I was saying “image is powerful, but also paper thin”...I love destroying those ideals, and reinventing them. How can we describe your clothing collection and how is it evolving? My collection is no longer just about a “destroyed elegance”...it is a full collection which is my own version of a lifestyle brand. The difference is that for now, I still approach everything we make from the perspective of being an artist, and it has an artisanal feel...It is quickly growing, and I am excited to continue to expand into core groups for my growing customer base. It is mainly a menswear collection: will you improve the female offer? I’ve offered men’s and women’s from the beginning, but it does have a unisex sensibility as

the stories I tell are the same for both. Where do you create it? Everything is currently made in my atelier in Los Angeles. How did the fact of growing in the Lauren family affect your approach to art and clothing? Seeing the world through a lens of style, was a unique, incredible education, and it also made me appreciate certain things from a young age. It is also what motivated me to ask the questions I’ve asked, and to celebrate and interrogate those ideas. How did you reinvent Paul&Shark’s iconic items according to your vision? I couldn’t wait to explore deconstructing such a classic, conservative nautical story.... as always I started with the classic, the DNA...I wanted this idea of sailing to represent far more, and I wanted it to be more of a story about the adventurous spirit of seeing the world...so I took the iconic pieces, for example a navy sweater, and cut it up, reassembling the pieces with different knit patterns, and combined it with vintage workwear denim...giving a once classic and conservative sweater, a nomadic, bohemian and artist sensibility. And why did you choose Paris to present it? If you are going to show something during a fashion week, there is still no better place than Paris...plus I wanted the collection and the show to feel like a magical, 19th century port, or dock, which was part historic, part Star Wars...reflecting a vintage and futurist feeling simultaneously.  ■


INTERVIEW

MILAN VUKMIROVIC

«FROM ONLINE TO OFFLINE ALWAYS AGAINST THE TIDE» A year after the launch of the see-now-buy-now Ports V, Serbian designer Milan Vukmirovic reveals the brand’s first brick-and-mortar store opening, in 2019 in Shanghai, and why digital and in-store are crucial to fashion’s future BY ANGELA TOVAZZI

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fashion renaissance man if there ever was one, Milan Vukmirovic is much more than just a designer. Born in 1970, the ever cosmopolitan Serbian is also a buyer, a journalist and a photographer. A restless, creative mind who refuses to settle, he has a constant eye on market trends and the mood on the street. He’s not afraid to swim against the tide and forge new paths of his own. His resume includes an impressive list of high-profile positions, including creative director of the concept store Colette in Paris, designer director at Gucci back in the Tom Ford days, creative director of Jil Sander and Trussardi 1911, not to mention director, for seven years, of the magazine L’Officiel Hommes Paris, co-founder of the concept store Webster in Miami and of The Boon in Seoul. Today he shows no signs of slowing down. And since 2015 he has been at the helm of the menswear office Ports 1961 and its new Ports V line and director, since 2011, of the hard copy magazine Fashion For Men, where he also works as a photographer. Your interests have taken you in a thousand different directions... How do you manage to multitask all the time? Being like this has never been easy, which is why I have also received a lot of criticism. I often hear about how my involvement in thousands of things means that I am unable to do everything well. However

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for me, this is not just a way of following my passions, it is a necessity. I could never be any different. Diversification broadens your horizons and prevents you from getting bogged down. About a year ago you launched the menswear collection Ports V, based on a see-now-buy-now formula, with focus on e-commerce. How is that going? It marked a sharp, clear-cut turning point. We tried to transcend the traditional ‘two collections per year’ rule, to embrace a more rapid production and distribution philosophy, with four-five limited edition capsules, available immediately online. Fashion behemoths the likes of Zara and H&M have changed the markets: every 15 days they refresh their in-store selection and if something isn’t working, they move it. I asked myself: ‘Why can’t we adopt this business model as well?’ Consumers have everything just a click away from them, so when they see something they like, perhaps on Instagram, they want it now. They’re certainly not going to wait six months to buy it, by which time they might already be attracted to something else. Will Ports V be distributed online only? When we first started, we focused exclusively on digital drive, with important campaigns on Instagram. However a year later, I miss not being able to see the collection in

Born and raised in Paris, Milan Vukmirovic studied at Esmod, in Paris. He co-founded the concept store Colette and has been the Design Director of Gucci, Creative Director of Jil Sander and Trussardi 1911. Milan is currently Editor-in-Chief and Founder of the Fashion For Men bookazine and has been the Creative Director of Ports 1961 menswear up until the launch of Ports V in early 2018

a physical space, where people can look at it and touch it with their own hands. Online, the most popular categories are still basic items, like sweaters and T-shirts... This is why we have decided to open the first real single brand store in 2019, in Shanghai. At the same time we are also working on wholesale development, in Japan and China too. The physical experience is fundamental: offline and online are not mutually exclusive and fashion needs both dimensions. Information is increasingly shifting on line, yet you continue to invest in your hard copy magazine Fashion For Men ... I see myself as a little crazy, I like swimming against the tide. So this is why I haven’t given up on a newspaper with lots of pages, which still has some weight to it and is printed on beautiful paper. I am convinced that there are still readers looking for quality contents. While we’re on the subject of quality, what do you think about social media? We need to be careful how we use it, in terms of our awareness… and the fact that the Internet is full of everything, beautiful as well as vacuous things, interesting projects and influencers who don’t influence a soul. What we need is a cleanup. In the future, “sincerity” will be the key word for credibility. ■


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NEWS

AN INTERVIEW WITH MASSIMO GIANFRATE

Berwich Eyes Global Roll-Out; Eco-Friendly Collections Fashion Magazine sat down and chatted with Massimo Gianfrate, the creative director of Berwich on the Puglia-based brand’s special eco-friendly collection presented at Pitti Uomo and the opening of its first Milan store.

Berwich is known for its trousers and meticulous sartorial flair. What are the product highlights for Spring-Summer 2020? One of the major themes is the capsule collection of garments crafted with ecocertified fabrics, linings and accessories that are sourced from companies that employ environmentally safe production cycles. Sustainability is a necessary path we must follow and we are certainly keeping up with the pace. What are the new features of the collection? We have created a series of garments using fresh and lively fabrics, from seersucker to cotton linen blends and pure cotton hopsack. Gabardines tend to be soft to the touch, fresh and extremely crisp. We embraced the vintage theme by using linen canvasses, which aren’t normally used for trousers and are instead interpreted with fine details and sartorial features. There is also a series of functional garments in cotton and linen, wool and linen, cotton twill for a sporty twist, and more sporty features including elasticated waists, drawstrings and mood joggers. What are your most important in-store initiatives? We are gearing up for the retail project which will enable us to conquer unexplored markets, like the Middle East and some areas of the Far East, where the wholesale route is currently impossible. We will make our début in Milan, probably by the end of this year, with a store in the Quadrilatero district, which will also feature a showroom area. At the same time we are also focusing on reinforcing investments for a much more structured e-commerce. And overall, we are still focused on remaining faithful to our wholesale customers (263 in Italy and 523 abroad, editor’s note), who we will continue to follow with the same care and dedication. How did the brand perform in financial terms in 2018? We closed the year with a 7 percent rise in sales to 8 million euros. Out of our full-year revenue, 18 percent was generated by womenswear, 62 percent was generated from foreign markets, with Russia, Japan, Korea and Europe leading the ranking.  (c.me.)

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THE CATWALK DEBUT IN PARIS

Tatras: “In Truth We Trust” For its first international catwalk show, Tatras chose the historic Salle Pleyel concert hall in Paris, where it staged a fashion show that celebrated truth in fashion (see photo). “The [show is about] ambition to offer genuinely high-quality garments that are immune to the gimmicks of the fashion industry,” the company said. Divided into three themes: metropolitan, military and a Californian vibe – the collection was presented with an original formula, featuring a fashion show and a theatrical performance (hence the location), thanks to the involvement of Steve Berra, a famous skateboarder and founder of Californian skatepark The Berrics. Berra chose three important Californian skaters for the opening performance. For the occasion, Berra also designed a capsule, which was paraded on the catwalk along with a special collab of pieces painted by English artist Nick Walker. The brand continues to grow. In 2018, turnover reached 45 million euro, an increase of around 15 percent, 60 percent of which came from Japan, followed by Italy, the United States and Asia, with a 50/50 split between menswear and womenswear. This is thanks to a collection that is evolving and increasingly focusing on millennials.  (c.me.)

MBT To Consolidate Sports Line

“In 2019 we are anticipating the consolidation of the sports line, which includes the Active and Running collection, a segment that on one hand is aimed at ‘technical’ consumers, whilst being a true sneaker product, thanks to its renewed design. This is in the context of the constantly growing ‘postural core’ collection, which has always been linked to the certified benefits of MBT,” said Fabrizio Cavallari MBTs Retail, E-commerce and Operations SVP for Europe. Given the importance of the rocker sole, which is patented worldwide, the brand aims to introduce new soles and original materials linked to the functionality of the curved sole with different densities. For next summer, it is concentrating on iconic models, revisited with a modern touch. The focus is on the Colorado X shoe (see photo) and the GT2, presented with original uppers and eye-catching colours. “Part of the new collections was designed in Italy in order to give us a better understanding of the taste and needs of the European market,” explained Cavallari. “Italy is very important to the brand and it is continuing to grow with e-commerce and multi-brand stores, which now number 100. The brand is present in over 30 countries, in 1,000 multibrand stores and in around 50 mono-brand stores.  (c.me.)


ENZO FUSCO/FGF INDUSTRY

Blauer Focuses On Sustainability, Worldwide Expansion

ph. Ioan Pilat

The entrepreneur plans to open a store in Tokyo and new ones between Verona, Santiago de Chile, Cannes and Lyon. Finally he will reach New York City. In the meantime he pushes the accelerator on sustainability

On the tradegrounds of Pitti Uomo, the world’s premier menswear event, Blauer showcased a lightweight down jacket made entirely of a fiber called Repreve composed entirely of upcycled food grade plastic, without the harmful bisphenol. “Eco sustainability is the only option for creating a better planet for our children,” Enzo Fusco, president of Fgf Industry, the company that owns Blauer, as well as outerwear brand Ten C, Prince Tees and Bpd. Made by a company called Unifi, Repreve was not the only innovative creation on show at Blauer at the four-day fair. Items crafted with Sorona, the company’s recycled, eco-down material were also on show. Blauer, which generates over 90 percent of Fgf’s revenues approached sustainability three seasons ago. “We were the first and now everyone is copying us, ” Fusco said. At the moment, Fusco is focused amping up the brand’s business internationally, marching full steam ahead, rolling out monobrand stores in the most important cities across the globe in order to secure showcases for presenting their menswear and womenswear collections, together with their footwear, leather goods, glasses and perfumes, which are made under licence. “Following our recent Prague opening, we inaugurated our first in-shop corner in Japan, in Takashimaya Times Square in Tokyo. We are also assessing the most suitable location in this city for a high street opening in September. In September, we will also inaugurate a store in Verona, followed by Santiago de Chile in January, with a shop-in-shop at a department store,” Fusco added, noting that the company is hoping to open in Cannes and Lyon with an import partner and finally reach New York City in 2020. Opening in the United States will require the right partner and Fusco said he is currently mulling all options. “It is a market where things need to be done properly, in terms of the right communication strategy for co-branding and online projects, with important visibility at retail level.” Fusco said, pointing out that China and Korea are also key potential markets, as turnover across the globe is evolving. “In terms of revenues, 2019 is expected to generate 52 million euros (including royalties), up 20 percent versus 2018, which accelerated 15 percent compared to 2017, while exports will reach 38/40% of the turnover, compared to 30% in 2018. Looking ahead Fusco, who recently launched the brand’s first footwear collection for children by Febos, is ambitious. “With Blauer, we are considering the option of a beachwear licence, which we currently manage directly,” he said. “We are also focusing on boosting Ten C, an invaluable luxury range distributed in 200 top stores internationally and we are evaluating the relaunch of Bpd, perhaps starting from next year. ”  (c.me.)

ON STAGE Baracuta Dives Into Sustainability British heritage brand Baracuta, which is owned by Italy’s WP Lavori in Corso, made its foray into the ecosustainable world with Atelier & Repairs , the L.A.-based brand by Maurizio Donadi, that bets on 0% production and 100% transformation. At Pitti Uomo, the brand unfurled a capsule collection of limited edition of G9 jackets made with factory offcuts, military archive fabrics and sailing materials, under the direction of Maurizio Donadi.

Vibram Unfurls Three New Models A flip-flop, a loafer and a boot: these are the three product variations proposed by Vibram with the Tropical Carrarmato (“lug”) Sole, the result of a collaboration with Brazilian designers Fernando and Humberto Campana. It is a reinterpretation of the legendary Carrarmato sole design, the first designed and created by the company’s founder, Vitale Bramani, in 1937. The model is available in compounds in various densities, featuring a double structure that combines rubber and EVA, without the use of glues.

Ingram Takes An Eco Stand With Organic Linen One of Ingram’s standout products for next summer is a 100 percent organic linen shirt. A GOTS-certified product that meets the necessary requirements: the fabric is produced in compliance with strict and controlled social and environmental criteria and the fibres are organically grown without the addition of pesticides and with reduced consumption of water and energy. The buttons, labels and tags are also sustainable.

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FOCUS ON DENIM

WRANGLER/ROIAN ATWOOD

WRANGLER EMBRACES SUSTAINABILITY WITH INDIGOOD Through its partnership with Spanish fabric mill Tejidos Royo, denim maker Wrangler has developed a collection made through a water-free dyeing process. Roian Atwood, Jeanswear Sustainability Director of Wrangler’s parent company Kontoor Brands, discusses the road to eco-friendliness 1

BY CARLA MERCURIO

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rangler recently introduced its first denim apparel collection dyed with Indigood Foam-Dye, a technique that uses 100 percent less water and reduces energy use and waste by more than 60 percent compared to conventionally-dyed denim. A new process developed together with Spanish fabric mill Tejidos Royo. The company said the launch demonstrates Wrangler’s ongoing commitment to sustainability that’s reflected in its global sustainability goals. We learn more from Roian Atwood, Senior Director of Global Sustainable Business at Kontoor Brands, which in addition to Wrangler also owns Lee and Rock & Republic. What changes with the introduction of Tejidos Royo foam dye technology? The dyeing process does not use water and energy waste is reduced by over 60%. It is a real opportunity to transform the industry. We began investing in this technology over three years ago because we believe in its potential to change the industry. We never wanted the exclusive rights to it, we wouldn’t be able to justify keeping the water, waste and energy savings to ourselves. How long have you been committed to sustainability issues? Since Wrangler was launched in 1947 it has always had a deep connection to the environment. In the early 2000s we began with a series of projects based on reducing our impact in terms of energy, water and waste. More recently, our sustainability approach has become more holistic.

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What have you achieved in terms of water and energy savings, dyes and recycling? In 2016 we saved 3 billion litres of water in our finishing processes and set ourselves the goal of saving another 2.5 billion litres for a total of 5.5 billion litres by 2020. We are also taking big steps forward in terms of renewable energy: the aim is to power all of our owned and operated buildings with renewable energy by 2025. We are also proud to have multiple zero-waste distribution centres and are working to add more in the future. What have you done in terms of the health of your employees? The aim is to ensure their wellbeing. We have very strict Global Compliance Principles and Factory Audit Procedures to guarantee that every supplier operates in accordance with the highest standards and that workers are treated with fairness and dignity. What certification do you have? We’ve worked with a variety of different standards and certifications, regularly sourcing organic cotton and participating in the Better Cotton Initiative. We work with suppliers who are Oeko-tex certified and our owned manufacturing is Wrap certified. Our global responsible sourcing program monitors factories for critical building safety and worker safety in all geographies. These certifications are important milestones and we should never be too content with where we are at. We need to allow ourselves to make more environmentally conscious choices.

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1. Roian Atwood, Jeanswear Sustainability Director at Wrangler 2. The Indigood capsule 3. The foamdyed procedure introduced by Tejidos Royo 3

What are the next steps on your sustainability path? The aim for 2025 is to source 100 percent sustainable cotton. We are trying to do things differently. We spoke with farmers and academics, did the research, and built a software to help growers track their impacts and share their farm-level performance with us. To Wrangler, sustainable cotton means cotton grown with soil health and land stewardship in mind. Specifically, we want our growers to practice cover crops, conservation tillage and complex rotation. When used together, these three sciencebacked practices can increase yields while decreasing environmental impacts. They can drive carbon back into the soil, all the while building resilience to pests and weather events. We’re proud that our system is good for the environment and farmers. ■


AUTUMN WINTER 2019 www.nicefootwear.it


NEWS

SOFIA CIUCCHI/IL BISONTE

«WE COULDN’T HAVE ASKED FOR A BETTER OWNER»

CORNELIANI: FIRST CHAPTER OF A NEW GREEN STORY

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After the acquisition of Il Bisonte by Look Holdings, a historic distributor and Japanese licensee of the made in Florence brand, CEO Sofia Ciucchi chats with us about her success (doubling of turnover in three years) and above all, about her plans, which include a new e-commerce website BY ANGELA TOVAZZI

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l Bisonte has entered in the hands of Look Holdings, its historic distributor and licensee in Japan, from Palamon Capital Partners, which bought it from its founder Wanny di Filippo in 2015. What will change? We are very happy about this acquisition. Look knows the brand well, respects it and knows how to promote it on the markets where it operates. It has been collaborating with Il Bisonte for more than 20 years. The holding is well structured, listed on the Tokyo Stock Exchange and manages 42 single brand store. We couldn’t have asked for a better owner. The first step will be to perpetuate Palamon’s drive for internationalisation, of the last few years.

tunities, China and South East Asia will be the next challenge, where we are currently weighing up different options. Another trajectory for development will be towards the travel retail world.

You took to the helm of Il Bisonte at the start of 2017. What priorities were there back then and what developments are in store? The company has enjoyed healthy growth over the last few years, going from 21 million euros in turnover for 2016 to 40 million for 2019. This expansion has been led by wholesale and targeted retail projects in strategic locations to boost awareness of the brand. In addition to Milan on via Santo Spirito, we have opened three stores in Hong Kong, a first step towards the conquest of Greater China. In March we arrived in New York, in the heart of the West Village, where we continue to leverage flagships and our quality presence in some department stores, including Bergdorf Goodman, to gain a firmer foothold on the multibrand channel. In addition to the United States, a market of immense oppor-

What about the digital front? Il Bisonte has been active with its own platform for seven or eight years now. This fall it will be entirely overhauled, with an omnichannel twist. We truly believe in this dialogue between offline and online. It is no coincidence that the project “Worn with love,” which we launched in May simultaneously on our website and at the New York single brand store (the USA is the brand’s top country in terms of e-commerce turnover, editor’s note), immediately generated extremely positive feedback for us. There is a section where the brand’s community can post photos of their own Il Bisonte vintage products and even sell them. We provide the space for trade, certify the originality of items and enable an item restoration service for anyone who may need it. Everything else depends on what is agreed between seller and buyer, including the price. ■

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1. FW 2019 bag 2. Sofia Ciucchi, CEO of Il Bisonte since January 2017

The project is called Circle and for upscale Italian mens wear designer Corneliani, it is the first step down a new path of awareness and socioenvironmental responsibility. With six total looks, it was presented for the first time at Milan’s mens fashion week and includes coats, trousers, shirts, knitwear and footwear. Each piece was characterised by the exclusive use of natural and organic fibres, sourced from companies and suppliers which have shown a long-standing commitment to sustainability. “Through this approach we are starting up an initial phase of change and alignment with methods, certifications and international standards which regulate the compatibility of industrial processes,” said Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, style director and general merchandising manager of the company, a subsidiary of Investcorp. The collection’s name is inspired by the course of life itself. “A stylistic and productive code which symbolises the cycle of life, as well as a circle of people, suppliers and customers who all share the same outlook on things,” Gaudioso Tramonte added. A showcase of items which exude an essential and urban flavour, marking the début of this sustainable commitment and complete with transparent communication. “Garments are customised with a dedicated label and informative cards where the customer will also find a link to the website corneliani.com, containing full information on materials and production partners,” Gaudioso Tramonte noted.  (a.t.)

One of the six total looks of Circle: the new ecosustainable project by Corneliani


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INTERVIEW

MARCO PIAZZI/ POLLINI

«THERE IS NO INNOVATION WITHOUT TRADITION» The Aeffe Group brand has just returned from Pitti Uomo, where it presented Archive, its new footwear collection for men and women, inspired by the creative heritage of a brand with over 60 years of history. According to Marco Piazzi, the brand’s managing director, Pollini is reflecting on the past to propel the company into the future

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BY ANGELA TOVAZZI 1

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n which direction is Pollini heading? Over the years,we have promoted the lifeblood of our company, with a focus on product innovation by means of constant research, in order to enable the application of a state-of-the-art processes, with the assistance of technologies and computer programmes. There has been a renewal of materials, in addition to more traditional one. We now have others which respond to new requirements and sensitivities generated by a changing world. Without a doubt, the future will see us increasingly involved in the use of eco-sustainable, low-environmentalimpact materials. With reference to creativity, we have also invested in the overhaul and reorganisation of the women’s collection and in particular, we have worked on enhancing the brand’s lifeblood, resulting in two categories that embody the brand’s very essence: Archive and Heritage collections. How would you describe the strategy behind this launch? On one hand, Archive marks a turning point because it aims to promote the heritage and stylistic canons which have forged the history of Pollini: a way of creating value at all levels and, through the product, conveying company heritage to the end consumer. On the other hand, the rise in sales demand for the Heritage collection, characterised by the all-over print of the brand’s iconic monogram, enables us to fully satisfy current logomania trends. Offline and online distribution: what is your business model? Pollini has a widespread presence both on the domestic and international market, via

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off and online channels. We are present in all the most important locations: Rome, Milan, Venice and Moscow, with singlebrand stores, in addition to a select network of speciality stores. At the same time, we can also say that we have acquired a consolidated competence in the digital sector and that has reinforced the physical and virtual interaction, by internalising online store management. We will forge ahead, inspired by an omnichannel strategy which will enable us to reinforce our presence worldwide. Which markets have you set your sights on? Pollini has always been present in the CisCommonwealth of Independent States, one of our most mature foreign markets and therefore an important asset. Even amid

1. FW 2019 Pollini campaign, with Heritage bag and shoes 2. Marco Piazzi, Pollini’s Managing Director 3.Three proposals from Archive: the collection conveys Pollini’s historic essence in creations which exude contemporary appeal, with the re-elaboration of traditional leather materials like buffalo, smooth or tanned calfskin

tough times, it has always held a special place for us, appreciating the brand’s style and quality. Recent challenges in the face of the crisis have stimulated big players to react by consolidating their position and reinforcing their partnership with Pollini. Recently, we inaugurated a new boutique in the prestigious locations like Gum, Moscow and we are seriously considering new opportunities in the Middle East and Asia. Forecasts for 2019? Excellent results achieved over the last few years are the result of activities implemented across all the company’s strategic sectors. We have leveraged them all in order to achieve solid growth across various categories, to the extent that Pollini is worth over 10% of Aeffe’s total turnover (in 2018, Aeffe generated a turnover of 346.6 million euros, editor’s note). In light of all of this, we are confident that we will continue to achieve impressive growth rates. In particular, the footwear sector has historically generated significant value for the brand, and if this remains the case, we expect persistent growth in leather goods collections, also thanks to the excellent results achieved by the iconic Heritage range. ■


SHOWROOM VIA SAVONA 97 M IL ANO


NEWS

STRATEGIES

1

Nice Footwear Opens Milan Showroom; Targets 20M In Sales The company active in consulting, development, production and footwear distribution opens on the fashion capital’s Via Montenapoleone

Casual footwear specialist Nice Footwear is unstoppable. The Vicenza-based company, which is a rising leader in the development, production and distribution of technical and sports footwear and casual shoes for men, women and children, just opened its doors on 18, Via Montepoleone, one of the most fashionable shopping promenades in the nation, if not the world. “It represents a key step in our international expansion strategy”, said Bruno Conterno, president and co-founder of the company that owns Kronos and distributes Conte of Florence, Ellesse and Avirex under license. In addition to its Italian hub, Nice Footwear also has showrooms in Madrid, Paris and now, Hong Kong. The company, which started four years ago, has 20 employees and boasts staff with a median age of 30 years old. The company also curates special projects in the world of fashion. Its distribution arm has a permanent team in three regions: Central and Western Europe, the Mediterranean

and Eastern Europe and has a strong wholesale presence in Greece, France, Spain, Switzerland as well as the Eastern European countries. We wanted to open the doors also towards the East with an inauguration last month in Hong Kong, Conterno said, adding that the aim is to expand to the Japanese, Korean and Taiwanese markets. The expectations are high. Our product has a creative, Made in Italy appeal, even if the

MILAN DEBUT

Fragiacomo Unveils Artisanal Exhibit Fragiacomo unveiled its “Works of Art” event with a live demonstration featuring the hand craftsmanship of a master shoemaker, during Milan Mens Fashion Week in Milan. “This is our real heritage, this is not storytelling,” said co-owner Federico Pozzi Chiesa. In 2010, Pozzi Chiesa, together with his brother Massimo, took over the historic Via Manzoni brand created by Dante Fragiacomo in 1956. “The mens wear collection is growing and now represents 30 percent of all sales,” Pozzi Chiesa said, noting that the value of “real Made in Italy” goods are unbeatable in the face of global competitors, even if those goods are sold online. “We have a monobrand store in Milan and in Rome, in addition to a South East Asian network,” he said, adding that the company is focused on expanding its digital presence, a facet of its business that represents a third of overall sales. “We are betting on our platform, where we can have full control of our brand.” (a.t.)

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2

1. Nice Footwear CEO Bruno Conterno 2. The new showroom on Via Montenapoleone

collections are made in China, Vietnam, Cambodia and Indonesia, he said, affirming that these offshore facilities comply with the highest standards and are certified, not just in terms of the products, but also in terms of working conditions. Looking ahead, investments will be focused on strengthening the Veneto-based company’s image abroad. It’s an integrated business approach. “We are a design-to-cost operation,” he added, noting that the firm has a managerial mindset integrated with a creative approach. “We dominate across all areas of the value chain,” Conterno concluded. In terms of numbers, the ‘proof is in the pudding’. Revenues doubled between 2018 and 2016, surging to 18 million euros last year from 12.5 million in 2017 versus only 9 million euros in 2016. In 2018, 54 percent of sales were booked outside of Italy, Conterno said. In 2019 the company said revenue growth may slow, but it forecasts a slight rise to 20 million euros.(a.t.)

Kiton: Sartorial Lessons Learned Kiton, the luxury ready-to-wear and made-to-measure mens wear company, has been active in shaping the tailors of tomorrow through its tailoring school Alta Sartoria. This June, the fruit of that labor went on show when the company unveiled its Igp x Kiton capsule collection SS2020: Intertwined Geographic Proficiency carried out by the students of Università degli Studi della Campania Luigi Vanvitelli. For the project,tailoring students crafted four blazers featuring hand stitching inside the garment that reproduces the geographical position of the familyrun company started by Ciro Paone. In addition the number of hours involved in the craftmanship of the garment was also stitched onto the garment. (a.t.)


BROADENING HORIZONS

Progetto Milano Showroom Grows In The Name Of Made In Italy Progetto Milano Showroom forges present and future strategies around the Italian heritage of its brands, as Raparo is relaunched and it welcomes Dienne, a new brand

Fiorentini & Baker, Raparo, Marabini, Angelo Bervicato, Mono, Dienne and To & Co (the latter a Japanese designer but with production based in the Marche region): all brands with an artisan life blood and Made in Italy production, showcased at Progetto Milano Showroom. All possess solid experience and are now broadening their horizons around a core business of footwear and accessories. “We are based at our headquarters and the Milan showroom, in a space that spans approximately 350 square metres, in via Archimede 6. We also have administrative offices in Riviera del Brenta, just outside Venice,” Progetto Milano Showroom founder Paolo Smagliato explained. Smagliato started Progetto Milano Showroom in the early

nineties with two colleagues. Initially called Progetto, Smagliato nurtured it, building an all-woman team, starting from the initiative’s historic professional Eliza P. Slavova. “We are a showroom with pure Italian lifeblood but with worldwide activity. Our mantra is ‘100 percent Made in Italy,’ with a focus on the quality that can only be found here, among a few meticulously selected brands,” he reiterated. Mono, for example, is a range of leather coats for men and women. Dienne is a new entry for 2019, synonymous with Capri sandals. “We are also working on the relaunch of Raparo, an iconic name in mens and womens footwear. The evolution of Progetto Milano Showroom is characterised by an increasing openness to omnichannel.

#newopening #september2019 #corsovenezia7 #milano

ph: +39 0276317715 mail: info@salottomilanese.com

Smagliato explained that social and virtual channels have become very important for the showroom. “In addition to their use before and after sales, they are increasingly useful for actual sales, for represented brands and visiting customers alike. For example, our Instagram account is increasingly followed and is generating important results for us in terms of visibility and contacts from all over the world”. (a.b.)


NEWS

SEPTEMBER 19 TO 22

WHITE MILANO UNVEILS ITS NEXT EDITION

A PROJECT BY UMBERTO DE MARCO

The tradeshow that unfolds in Milan’s Tortona design district continues to grow, exploring new languages of international fashion and reasserting its role as a reference platform for womenswear

A young entrepreneur for a very young brand. The 32 years old Umberto de Marco is CEO of Coronet, a ground breaking company that produces eco-friendly leathers. The innovative firm boasts clients such as Louis Vuitton, Tod’s, Moncler and Armani. Founded 52 years ago by his de Marco’s father, he recently took the reins with a new project known as Yatay: a brand of trainers now in its second season, which is characterised by its eco-flair and contemporary lines. The Made in Italy shoe crafted eco-friendly materials incorporates an upper that is made of corn and recycled plastic, the sole made of bio-polyols from renewable sources and the insole made of recycled rubber and recycled foam. The lining is a solventfree material that is made from recycled plastic bottles, treated with nanotechnology to make it absorbent, breathable and antibacterial. The collection started last season with the unisex model Neven. From next summer, the newborn version Irori will be added, with a softer touch and a more street look, with references to the world of skateboarding and basketball. It is no coincidence that all the brand’s names are palindromes. Distributed by Riccardo Grassi, the new trainers can be found at companies such as Selfridges in London, Antonia in Milan, Leclaireur in Paris and Farfetch. The retail price ranges between 240 to 290 euros. According to de Marco, the goal is to add new models every season, pushing the accelerator on sustainability, rather than offering a broad range of products. To demonstrate his commitment, the entrepreneur has teamed up with Onetreeplanted, the non-profit organisation committed to abolishing deforestation practices. Onetreeplanted has agreed to plant a tree in an area of the world plagued by deforestation practices for each pair of shoes sold. (c.me.)

BY ALESSANDRA BIGOTTA

I

ncreasingly a crossover of during WSM event in June, fashion, design and culture, the sustainability satellite fair White Milano returns to the has moved to a new location spotlight September 19 to 22 on via Tortona 31. Created in in Milan’s Tortona design dipartnership with Confartigiastrict. With the goal to attract nato Imprese, under the artimore international buyers, stic direction of Matteo Ward, the fair will open one day Give a FOKus is also articuearlier than usual. A referenlated into four areas: Water, ce platform for womenswear, to analyse the fashion supply White Milano attracts approchain’s impact on the world’s ximately 600 clothing colwater supply; Chemicals, to lections and 27,000 visitors raise awareness regarding the FACTS to the fashion capital, edition use of natural dyes and con& FIGURES by edition. This season will formity certifications for sube no exception. The event stainability standards; Clima27,000 will again be rolled out across te Change, which raises the VISITORS EXPECTED four areas, with a total exhibiissue of the use of fossil fuel tion space of approximately for synthetic fibre production; 20,000 SQM 20,000 square metres: the Waste, which is dedicated to SURFACE Superstudio Più, via Tortona recycling; and the People sec27, once home to Nestlé, the tion, which is centred around 600 former Ansaldo/Base on via underpaid and exploited laCOLLECTIONS Tortona 54, the Nhow Hotel bourers around the world. on via Tortona, 35 and last but This space will host the inaunot least, via Tortona 31 within the Opificio gural conference of White Milano, moderapremises. Once more, this historic industrial ted by our director Marc Sondermann. Via area of Milan hosts a contemporary, internaTortona 31 is also home to White Archiprotional event. White CEO Brenda Bellei (also ducts: a project created in conjunction with head of the organizing body M.Seventy) said CBI, that unites the trendiest brands, as idenWhite is developing in-tandem with Milan’s tified by Italian buyers into contextualised growth as a city. “Today we are Italy’s main, window displays. It is also worth mentioning growing constantly in a city like Milan, the the presence of the brand Munè as a special world’s distribution capital,” Bellei added. guest, a showcase that is being spearheaded The exhibition event is developed in partnerby the Japanese Munenori Uemuro, formerly ship with the Italian Ministry of Economic designer at Jil Sander. The exhibit will include Development, Ice Agenzia, Confartigianato, the creation of a high-impact installation by Lombardy Region, the City of Milan, Cameillustrator and art director Lucia Emanuela ra Buyer Italia (CBI). A vast and varied set of Curzi (see photo). Last but not least, Showpanel discussion offers an opportunity for inroom Connection: a format created by White depth analysis of current affairs, from sustaito connect companies with showrooms inside nability in the Give a FOKus area. Following the fair, further reinforcing the #Shareable iniits début in February and focus on water tiative, in collaboration with Condé Nast. ■

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YATAY: ECO-FRIENDLY TRAINERS FOR A CLEANER PLANET


VICARIO CINQUE for

Vicario Cinque SS 2020 Collection: Are You Ready To Leave? FROM THE CITY TO THE SEASIDE: TRAVELLING IS THE NEW ELEGANCE. MADE OF VENETO’S TAILORING TRADITION, SMOOTH LINES, EVERYDAY COMFORT, 100% MADE IN ITALY MANUFACTORING. FOR A SUCCESSFUL WOMAN WHO BELIEVES IN CONTEMPORARY VALUES Travel: one of the core contents for Vicario Cinque is the main theme for the upcoming SS 2020 season. The collection splits into three subthemes that refer to the transition from city to the seaside, from daily work routines to holidays, from spring to summer. City Elegance deals with business, in Milan and Venice, with functional cuts, noble fabrics such as cachemire cotton, linen, silk and neutral colors: pearl, night and offwhite. Week-end attitude tells the story of a Tuscan weekend, between Floren-

ce and Siena, with lighter natural fabrics and warmer colors such as sage, ocre and chambray. While Summer Holiday takes us straight to the Amalfi coast with whiter outfits, wider skirts and floral patterns created with exclusive prints, to express an all-Italian sense of a summer at the seaside. Besides, World Diary is a ceremony capsule. Noble, educated, eclectic, this collection tells the story of a trip around the world, looking for refined fabrics and original aesthetics. Each of the three themes - Italian Clas-

www.vicariocinque.com

sics, Art+Roses and African Futurism translates the journal notes of a curious, sensitive and elegant artist. Expression of Veneto’s tailoring tradition and refined elegance made of smooth lines that ensure comfort and perfect wearability, Vicario Cinque dresses a capable woman, uncompromising and heedful of contemporary values. A working woman, who loves success and obtains it, without needing to boast about it. A woman that chooses to live as a symbol of intelligence and sensitivity.


NEWS

CARUSO CEO OUTLINES NEW PROJECTS

On the left Caruso ceo MarcoAngeloni. Below the new showroom just opened in Milan

Aldo Maria Camillo Tapped As Creative Director Caruso ceo, Marco Angeloni seized the opportunity to unveil the brand’s latest: a new designer, the opening of new Milan showrooms, an upcoming New York and revenues of up to 52 million euros

“Turning Caruso into a brand more than a product by expanding the range that was started from our core product, the sartorial coat. This is our objective,” ceo Marco Angeloni said in an interview. From Caruso’s new showroom at number 8 Largo Augusto in Milan, Angeloni outlined the relaunch of the brand. Caruso has made its comeback as protagonist of the Milano Moda Uomo calendar, with a presentation dedicated to the SS20 collection designed by Aldo Maria Camillo, the brand’s first creative director. “A wonderful designer and friend, who shares our vision of male elegance.” The result of the collaboration is a collection “that is not fashion driven, but rather, very modern” and more varied compared to the past, Angeloni explained. Lightweight and deconstructed suits and jackets have been blended with other iconic menswear items like polo shirts, Safari jackets, tops, jackets and anoraks. Angeloni’s philosophy is palpable, as he walks through the recently inaugurated showroom that has an intimate feel and is outfitted with apartment interiors. “We needed

a bigger space and at the same time we need to make our customers feel at home during the sale campaign. The ‘Caruso experience’ must be authentic, welcoming,” he said, noting the brand will follow the same approach when it finishes it New York showroom which will be located between 52nd and 53rd Street and Madison Avenue. After two years at the helm of Caruso, Angeloni’s priority, has also been the reorganisation of wholesale channel. “We work with more than 200 partners, the best in the world.” Looking ahead, Angeloni said the future, in terms of sales, is upbeat, noting revenue of over 52 million euros in 2018: “It was a wonderful year with a double-digit growth and we confirm a favourable trend for 2019, especially for the Caruso brand. The manufacturing business has also been a source of satisfaction.”  (an.bi.)

NEW STRATEGY

Harmont & Blaine Hits The 100M Mark Harmont&Blaine opted out of a trade stand at Pitti Uomo this June and instead decided to showcase its Spring Summer 2020 collection in the gardens of an ancient Florentine palace called Palazzo Budini-Gattai (in the picture). “We wanted a more distinctive venue that would elevate the image of our brand, and we succeeded in this,” Daniele Ondeggia, the clothing company’s COO explained. The location was not only used not for an evening party June 12, but was also for meeting buyers and the press throughout the event. It is still too soon to say whether the idea of presenting beyond Pitti Uomo in Florence will become the Harmont&Blaine modus operandi, or whether Fortezza da Basso will soon reopen its doors to the brand. “Initial

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Lardini Focuses On E-Shop And IPO Lardini, known for its sleek mens wear suits, generated 85 million euros in revenue in 2018, with an impressive 90 million in sales forecast for 2019. The stock market listing is part of a wider strategy to strengthen its retail presence. Founded in 1978, the brand will open a store in Antwerp, Belgium by the end of the year, in addition to the 10 mono-brand stores it already has. While the focus is on fortifying its brick and mortar presence, the Italian company is also focused on its online presence and opened its first e-commerce on June 20th, in-tandem with its fall-winter 2019/2020 collection. The online shop will serve as a springboard for the USA and Canada markets, two geographic areas that are a top priority for the brand. It also is committed to boosting its image and customer loyalty in Europe. (an.bi.)

reactions have been positive,” Ondeggia said. For Harmont&Blaine, optimism is not only linked Florentine festivities. The company known for its upscale casual wear said it also sees a positive year in terms of revenue, forecasting a 9 percent rise in sales versus 2018 levels, which hit 83 million euros.“We expect to exceed the 100 million turnover mark. This is the objective we have set ourselves for the end of the year,” Ondeggia said, noting that sales generated from Italy, its home market will be a main driver in achieving their sales targets. In addition to Italy, Spain now represents the brand’s second-largest market in terms of sales. On an extra-EU level, Mexico is performing well and sales generated in China are also on the rise. “Things have been improving year after year, with growth rates around 40 percent But now is the time for us to concentrate our efforts online,” Ondeggia concluded.  (an.bi.)


NEWS

GIADA

Hand Picked Broadens Its Horizons, Focuses On Sustainability And Craftsmanship The brand launched last year by the Italian company is broadening its horizons, entering the summer season with a fashion-forward, total look collection

Hand Picked, the brand launched last year by Giada, is broadening its horizons, entering the summer season with a fashion-forward, total look collection. At a presentation for the press and its sales force, the Rovigo-based company presented 140 pieces last month in the Sicilian seaside town of Taormina, near the company’s Bronte production site. Looking ahead, Giada’s goal is to double the brand’s sales and expand its network to 400 stores from the 200 it currently had this winter. Italy accounts for 45 percent of its total distribution, while 55 percent is booked abroad. Under Franco Catania’s direction, the group’s total turnover reached 70 million euro in 2018, with a 10 percent growth forecast for 2019. In addition to Hand Picked, the company produces the Jacob Cohën brand under license,

together with the more recent Karl Lagerfeld Denim and Vilebrequin lines. “We pay great attention to our Hand Picked label which, one year after its launch, has achieved excellent results. For the most part, this can be attributed to the credibility that Giada has been able to establish over time. Each label has a different philosophy, but luxury denim is the common denominator’’, Catania said. Inspired by nature, the new Hand Picked luxury denim collection is complete and extensive, featuring the use of very high-quality materials processed with attention to details ensured by many manual steps. The denim used for the five-pocket model is produced with cotton grown using traditional techniques and treated with natural indigo. Japanese indigo fabrics and ecofriendly or reused fiber denim are at the core of the Bronte production plant, which is focused on eco-sustainability, already through the use of solar panels, water recycling, reuse of waste fabrics and new treatment techniques to reduce water consumption. (c.b.)

EVENTS, RETAIL, LOCATIONS AND SERVICES FOR COMPANIES

Consolo Hub: One Brand, Several Companies The union of three Milan-based companies (plus one), dedicated to high-end events and retail has given birth to Consolo Hub, a project spearheaded by Alessandro Consolo (see photo), who founded Spazio Consolo in 1995. The newly launched project is the result of a union between Consolo Produzioni, Consolo Real Espace and Consolo Retail, along with the recently launched Italian Short Rent agency. It is a significant development for the entrepreneur, who has always believed in the potential of location management and in services dedicated to events, expanding his vision to encompass special communication and business formats such as the temporary shop formula for the promotion, presentation or sale of products and more. Founded in 2001 and supported by the professionalism of its

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managing partner Andy F. Onyemen, Consolo Produzioni deals with production and services related to event organisation. Consolo Real Espace offers the customer proposals for managing and scouting spaces for events and temporary shops, in Milan and in other Italian cities. Consolo Retail is dedicated to the retail world, a reference point for companies that operate in fashion, design and food, focused on the outlets to organise and manage special dedicated formats. Short Rent specialises in short and medium-term rentals and boasts a portfolio of different types of apartments in the main districts of Milan. Alessandro Consolo is joined by Giordana Consolo, managing partner of the new project. The Consolo Hub companies have advised brands such as Gucci, Hermès, Lvmh, Ermenegildo Zegna, Philipp Plein, to name a few. (c.me.)

Sant’Andrea Milano: Estrato Is The Magic Word Estrato, the new innovative fabric by Trabaldo Togna (characterised by its natural elastic qualities, a result of a special production process and free from synthetic elements), is a key element that sets the Sant’Andrea Milano summer 2020 collection apart from the rest. The perfect solution for consumers who not only dress to impress, but also for the sheer pleasure of comfort. Available in a variety of solutions, from cashmere to the 180’s Organic, traceable and sustainable wool version, Estrato is the ingredient for lightweight suits and jackets that boast a more modern twist, reduced proportions, arched shoulders and enhanced lapel collars, matched with a more pastel colour palette. The Sant’Andrea Milano brand, headed by the Trabaldo Togna family, is based in Milan and is manufactured in the Marche region. The line also proposes a sportswear section, with garments characterised by an essential and loose fit, in cotton, wool, silk or linen and Estrato, of course. Technological waterproof and windproof materials make items suitable for sudden changes in weather conditions. Musthaves include field jackets in technical wool and the ultralight blouson in silk or linen. The collection distinguishes itself through the virtue of its artisan quality and its sheer finishings that have been perfected by the Marchebased company’s team of 200 tailors. The ready-to-wear collection includes coats in colourful suede, cashmere and silk knitwear, as well as polo shirts in polished cotton or piqué. (c.me.)


Not a Bomber jacket, but “The” Bomber jacket The iconic navy blue or khaki military jacket was created in the early signal”, aimed at facilitating rescue of pilots in distress. TM

Hence, marketed by a handful of leading brands including Bombers Original , its popularity grew dramatically until he came in a large variety of colors. The short jacket model with and Hollywood’s superstars like Marilyn Monroe or James Dean. Hijacked through the years by all the crews who took part of fashion and pop culture’s history, from the Mods and Skinheads, not to mention Hip Hop movement’s initiators, the Bomber became gradually a “must have”. TM

Thanks to its unequivocal name, Bombers Original clearly embodies the Bombers’ quintessence. The concept succeeded in ensuring the continuity of an historic brand, while giving it a fresh creative boost, revisiting the timeless classic that Bombers represents and adapting it to the demands of urban clients and trend setting customers. www.bombers-original.com Italian Distributor : bagmass@bagmass.com

CLASSIC, ICONIC, LEGENDARY


NEWS

STRATEGIES

Ready To Land In Milan Andrea Corradini has spearheaded Navigare, a brand that embodies the effortless elegance of Italian menswear, for 14 years. Today, he is ready to expand the brand’s retail presence in major Italian capitals like Florence and Milan

You became CEO in March, what is your strategy going forward? We are continuing with prudence, but we are stepping things up a notch in terms of repositioning our distribution and in terms of a refresh of our collections, whilst remaining faithful to our heritage. Currently revenues generated in Italy represent 8 A look from percent of our sales, span- Navigare’s ning across 450-500 mul- Autumn-Winter 2019/2020 ti-brand stores and about 15 mono brand stores under both direct and indirect management. Abroad we have around 150-200 [wholesale] customers with just as many Navigare-mono-brand stores, mostly concentrated in Eastern Europe and Russia. Any projects for the future? Lots, both in Italy and abroad. As of SpringSummer 2020, we will land in Germany, in

a structured manner and with a German partner. Simultaneously we will continue to roll out our retail expansion. Our goal is to have 10 to 12 Italian stores by 2020 versus six currently. We are currently negotiating openings in Milan and Florence. We are also working on building up the monobrand network abroad, managed in collaboration with our partners, with openings in main squares including in Sarajevo. Forecasts for 2019? In 2018 we generated approximately 30 million euros in turnover, slightly down from the previous year, although profitability is on the rise. This year we forecast a stable year in terms of revenue, with an increase in EBITDA and a considerable reduction of debt.(a.t.)

Zanellato Joins A-Gender Revolution A sign of the times. Zanellato, the bags and accessories brand spearheaded by Franco Zanellato, has embraced the genderless wave that has hit the fashion world. With its new project Duo, icons like the Nina e Postina, underwent a refresh. “The unisex concept has already been tackled by the apparel market, but in the accessories world, nobody has really ventured into that area,” Zanellato said, pointing out that Nina was also remodeled into a larger version, deconstructed and versatile, as a bag-a-porter for her, and a maxi pouch for him. The Nina Baby model was also transformed, this time into a round-bag, perfect for him and for her, while the brand’s Postina brand was amped up to an extralarge dimension, softer this time and fitting for a men or women. “Icons that are being reinvented still stay true to our heritage,” Zanellato said, noting that the the brand will be ready to hit the French market in Spring-Summer 2020. “We are only bringing one sole concept, one sole message, bringing it back to the beginning of our history: the Postina, ” he added, noting that looking ahead, the brand’s goal is to be present in about 50 multibrand stores in Paris.  (a.t.)

SHOWROOMS

Bagmass Infuses Parisian Flair With Jayloucy The latest winning card for Bagmass is Jayloucy. The Milan-based showroom led by Renzo Massa strengthens its roster of brands with the addition of a new womenswear brand straight from France, which combines a Parisian touch with metropolitan verve and ultra feminine fitness, for coats and 24-hour ensembles which seamlessly combine glamour and practicality. Jayloucy is expected to add to Bagmass’ fashion-forward appeal. The showroom already represents casual, outerwear and denim brands like Bombers Originals - a collection inspired by American ‘top guns’ of the fifties. Its Spring-Summer 2020 collection is even more articulated, with proposals for men and women exploring nylon and the world of washed cotton. Also among top brands at Bagmass are Sal Parasuco, the eponymous label by denim legend Salvatore Parasuco, and Noize, a cruelty-free outerwear brand which has been well-received by eco-conscious consumers because of its use of alternative, eco-concious materials like man-made fibres, vegetable leathers and faux fur.(a.t.)

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Wushu Amps Up Wholesale The sneaker brand inspired by the history of martial arts, is focusing on securing over 800 wholesale clients, as a part of a strategy to expand its business in Europe. Founded in 1985, Wushu was started by the Lorini brothers martial arts masters and Italian champions. Blackboard, together with Mauro Diliddo, relaunched the brand in 2018 with the goal to expand the brand internationally. Under new management, Wushu’s wholesale presence rose to 600 international stores worldwide, of which 350 are based in Italy. Biffi, Gerard Loft and Le Bon Marché are just a few European names that carry Wushu footwear. Today, the brand is interested in expanding into key markets such as Spain, Portugal, France and Japan, after already breaking into Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium. (a.t.)


NEWS

DOMENICO BOSATELLI’S PROJECT

Briglia 1949 Mingles Ethics And Sartorialism

Chorustyle Focuses On Exports And Sustainability A 200 million euro investment propels lifestyle brand into fashion limelight

The lifestyle to fashion brand Chorustyle presented its second collection on the last day of Milan’s men’s fashion week at the Triennale museum. It’s a surprising venture for Domenico Bosatelli, its 85 year old founder, who founded domotics and lighting company Gewiss in 1970. As a wellknown industrialist, Domenico Bosatelli is also a part of Italy’s prestigious Order of Merit for Labour, an honor that is bestowed to Italy’s top minds and game changers in the fields of agriculture, industry and commerce, crafts, lending and insurance. Some 200 million euros have been earmarked by Bosatelli for Chorustyle, in order to capitalise on a new way of living everyday life in terms of fashion, food and furniture, the brand said. Honorary president of Italy’s fashion chamber, Mario Boselli (board member of Chorustyle) heralded the fashion line a “visionary idea,” commending Bosatelli who also envisaged Chorus Life, a “smart city” currently under construction in the Bergamo area, a city just outside of Milan (editor’s note). Fashion, objects and design are the three pillars of this start up. The spring-summer 2020 collection starts with a stylistic re-elaboration of the Fallingwater villa, an architectural masterpiece designed by legendary American architect Frank Lloyd Wright, as well as the arenas that surround two sports: tennis and

An outfit of the spring-summer 2020 Chorustyle collection

floor gymnastics. “The first fall-winter collection will hit the market soon. What we are aiming for is to conquer the market with physical stores, before going online,” Boselli explained. “Far East is our first target. We have received a lot of positive feedback there, but we shall also be present in Italy and Europe. The idea is to achieve a significant export quota in a short space of time, at least 50 percent,” he added. Inspired by Made in Italy, Chorustyle already operates under the sustainable guidelines in terms of its supply chain and the materials it incorporates into its collections. Chorustyle uses Oekotex certified fabrics and ecosustainable production processes, as well as bio-based polyamides which reduce water and energy consumption by 20 percent and impact the environment 25 percent less than standard polyamide. (c.bo.)

FOCUS ON KOREA, TAIWAN, PHILIPPINES AND CHINA

Save The Duck Set To Take On Asia Now that Milan-based brand Save The Duck has opened its operations in Hong Kong, the outerwear maker will open a single brand store in Kowloon, China at the K11 shopping centre (its second after Milan). «This is a premise for expansion in Korea, Taiwan, the Philippines and China», said Save The Duck’s founder and shareholder Nicolas Bargi. Bargi expects to book a rise in 15 percent in sales or 38.5 million euros in the full year 2019. This would compare to 33.5 million euros in 2018. The EBITDA margin should close in from 23.5% to 21%, due to new retail projects as well as investments in sustainability. Save The Duck is focused on obtaining the B Corporation certification, which is issued by B Lab, a Pennsylvania-based non-profit organization which awards companies that voluntarily meet standards of transparency, accountability, sustainability and performance.  (e.f.)

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“The name Briglia 1949 was inspired by a passion for horses, whereas the date refers to the year of our father’s birth,” founder and designer Michele Carillo of the Briglia 1949, a brand he founded in 2012, said. Its inception was a continuation of its twenty-year history in the menswear industry. The label, guided by this young CEO, created its core business around trousers. Since its inception, it has seen its revenues rise to 10 million euro in the space of a few years, with northern Europe and Japan among its top markets. “Growth trends has been in the order of +20-25 percent per season,” Carillo said. Italy still represents 65-70 per cent of sales, but foreign markets are going to grow. Recently the brand started its e-commerce, even though the company still relies on its B2B business. Carillo ponders how innovation, woven with a long heritage and extensive research, will impact Briglia 1949 in the future: ”The upcoming spring-summer collection pays attention to current issues, among them sustainability”. Ethical is the new capsule, conceived as a continuum of its predecessor Blu. It features five 100 percent sustainable trousers, from its recycled cotton fabric to its buttons, from its fastenings to its eco-friendly dyes. Briglia 1949 is distributed across a network of 650 multi brand stores in Italy and the world. Looking ahead, the brand aims, sooner or later, to open a mono brand store. (c.bo.)


FOCUS ON KIDSWEAR

BUYERS @ PITTI BIMBO 89

FROM BIG LABELS TO NICHE BRANDS: THE FAIR’S CHALLENGE The Kids’ Lab new area, but also a new entry the likes of Emporio Armani, created a buzz at the fair, ended with almost stable presence of buyers from abroad, but with a 5 to 6 percent drop in the number of Italian ones BY ALESSANDRA BIGOTTA

THE KID’S LAB

EMPORIO ARMANI

IL GUFO

A

t a time in which the market gives nothing for free, investment in change and creativity is fundamental. Hence, this was the sentiment that kicked off the 89th edition of Pitti Bimbo, held at Florence’s Fortezza da Basso from June 20 to 22. The fair showcased 603 childrenswear brands, 400 of which were from abroad. The fair’s new The Kid’s Lab area, which housed the KidzFizz, #Activelab, The Nest, EcoEthic and Kid’s Evolution sections, took over the limelight. This spacious area was situated on the top floor of the central pavilion and served as a vessel of collections, as well as events, like the lifetime achievement and award ceremony - the first for this event

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- which went to the iconic Milanese retailer Pupi Solari. Buyers all noted a spike in excitement around events from vanguard labels and niche brands that showcased innovative fabrics and commercial appeal. “I was impressed with The Kid’s Lab, because it gives us buyers the chance to explore the whole world of innovation in a unique environment. The Emporio Armani event also deserves mention, as it livened things up a bit. With regards palpable trends at the fair, in my opinion, one of the most commercially viable ones was Logomania, which has already gained a strong foothold over the last few seasons and is set to continue in this direction,” said Hayley Girardier, buyer

of Leicester, UK-based store Jellyrolls. “A message of change was evidenced at the fair. And that’s not a bad thing, especially during this market phase. The mix of big designers like Emporio Armani and emerging brands was interesting,” said Arianna Vaccas of Childrensalon. “I don’t gravitate towards designers but instead, I tend to gravitate towards special ranges, like the brands Cucu Lab and 1+ Family just to give you an example, which appeal to a clientèle of over-30 mums, even though younger mums have shown a renewed interest in my store,” said Sara Corbioli of Unduetrestella in Affi (Verona), which specialises in new names and brands that invest in research. “There


ON STAGE MIMISOL: A SPARKLING CAPSULE WITH SWAROVSKI

APARTMENT FASHION SHOW

PINKO UP

has been no shortage of highlights during this edition of Pitti Bimbo,” Sara Corbioli added: “I appreciated brands like Orimusi and Minimu, both Made in Italy, which boast an interesting array in terms of fashion and the researched fabrics, stood out. As for The Kid’s Lab area, for me it’s a suspended verdict: I found it somewhat dispersive and it was hard to find the brands I was looking for”. Amina Albar of Rubaiyat in Saudi Arabia said Pitti Bimbo connected her with high-end brands: “This is the only place where we can find designers like Emporio Armani, Dolce&Gabbana (one of our bestsellers, together with Gucci, which did not take part in the event). Our market is still dominated by classic ceremony and party dresses but things are changing, in favour of more casual models and here you can find a bit of everything,” Albar pointed out. The same mood is palpable in Qatar, explained Ahmed Khaled Darkazanli of Blue Salon. “The overly-dressy trend is linked to certain seasons, however there has also been a rise in demand for wearability. This doesn’t

CHILDREN’S FASHION FROM SPAIN (MAYORAL)

mean that big brands no longer have a big influence on our clientèle, which is why I’d like to see even more of them at Pitti Bimbo. The event is useful for relations more than for business in the strictest sense of the word,” Khaled Darkazanli said. Overall organisers remained upbeat despite the economic downturn. The 89th edition attracted over 5,100 buyers (with 10,000 visitors), slightly down compared to last year’s figures. Out of the total, 2,450 were from abroad, while there was a 5 to 6 percent drop in the number of Italian buyers at the event. “In light of the country’s economic situation and the transformation of the distribution sector, this downturn is natural, but numbers don’t say it all. For example, we have noticed a rise in key decision makers present in the kidswear market - from countries like the United Kingdom, the USA and France, and top buyers from all over the world, including Italy, all of whom responded unanimously with interest,” said Pitti Immagine general director Agostino Poletto. ■

Iconic made in Italy brand Mimisol takes a new direction with its new designer, Umberto Consiglio. The first collection made under Umberto’s creative guidance was presented at Pitti Bimbo. The collection is aimed at children, in-line with the brand’s DNA, but with more male and newborn products. Completing the line, was the Sparkling special collection, consisting of three garments that are 100 percent Made in Italy and embroidered by hand, with a heart-shaped appliqué made with Swarovski crystals that also adorned footwear. Part of the sale proceeds will be donated to Operation Smile Italia Onlus.

BLAUER USA LAUNCHES KIDS FOOTWEAR WITH FEBOS Starting spring-summer 2020 Blauer USA brand, managed in Italy by FGF group, will expand its junior collection with a shoes collection made by Febos, which already produces the brand’s footwear for adults under license: 80 models of shoes, divided evenly between boys and girls. 70 per cent of Blauer Junior’s revenues come from Italy, but the brand aims to expand abroad, thanks to three new agents in Germany, Benelux and Russia. Turnover from the brand represents about 10 percent of Blauer USA’s total (a brand that boasted 52 million euro in sales, including royalties, in 2018) and grew by 36 percent with its fall-winter 2019/2020 collection.

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FOCUS ON KIDSWEAR

PARTNERSHIP AGREEMENT

G-Star Raw Amps Up Its Kidswear Game With Kidiliz After a test phase, the union between the Dutch brand and the French childrenswear leader officially kicked off with spring-summer 2020

It all started with fall-winter 2019/2020, but the agreement between G-Star Raw and Kidiliz group finally came to fruition with its spring-summer 2020 collection, presented at Pitti Bimbo in June. The French group, with a turnover of 430 million euros, is a leader in children’s fashion and since last October, has been a part of the Chinese group Semir. It has been full steam ahead, as the brand has now solidified its partnership with innovative denim maker and taken charge of the 30-yearold Dutch denim wear brand’s kids line. “It’s the right age to have your first child,” joked Raul Cruz Bonilla, Kidiliz’s managing brand director for the G-Star Raw kids line. “This child for us means leading the premium denim area, in synergy with a strong brand from Europe to China. There are certainly growth prospects for G-Star Raw kids in China, given the fire power of

a player like Semir.” The collection is 70 percent male and is divided into two lines: the 3 to 10-year-old and the 8 to 16-yearold, with a junior component, although a newborn project is planned for fall-winter 2020/2021. “France is our strongest market, followed by the Netherlands and then Germany, Austria and Switzerland,” Cruz Bonilla said. The brand hopes to reach 250 to 300 stores in Italy from only 120, while the brand’s launch in Japan is imminent, through the site g-star.com/ja_jp. The brand’s e-commerce is a main driver and already represents 35 percent of its overall business. The spring-summer 2020 collection is divided into two themes: City Expedition for small urban explorers and Desert Expedition, inspired by military clothing archives. Practical, fashionable and, last but not least, sustainable garments are at the core of the brand. “For GStar Raw for children, the goal for 2020 is to use 100 percent sustainable cotton and 90 percent other sustainable materials, through our ZDHC (Zero Discharge Hazardous Chemicals) commitment,” the manager said.  (a.b.)

FULL SAIL AHEAD

Under-16 Demographic Drives North Sails North Sails made a splash at Pitti Bimbo with its under-16 line, designed entirely for boys. “There is a lot of attention to the brand in general and also on the kids’ side, which accounts for 10 to 15 percent of our total revenue growth of 18 percent in 2018, with the prospect of a further double-digit increase in 2019. Our garments for children four years-old and over are distributed in 250 stores, mostly Italian, while abroad our key markets are France, Germany and Spain,” explained Maurizio Grasso, Commercial Director of the North Sails Collection, who showcased a line that as centered around adult themes: heritage, continuous innovation and respect for

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Alice Pi Tailors For More Contemporary, Junior Set Let’s face it, little girls are over the princess phase. That’s why Alice Pi, known for its princess looks, is now focusing on more contemporary looks to captivate a wider audience of 0 up to 16 years old. Produced and distributed by Felice srl, Alice Pi is also focusing on more casual elegance to captivate the 14 to 16 set. “With this in mind, we have brought designer Daniela Caprioni into the style department, an individual who deals specifically with this segment and supports like designers already in place, Serena Vannucchi and Alice Minacci,” Project & Export Manager Luca Cappelloni said. For 2020, Alice Pi is also focusing on strengthening its newborn line and, at a distribution level, the launch of an e-commerce project. The wholesale physical channel is managed by 400 customers in Italy and about 180 abroad, including Spain, Portugal, Cyprus, Germany, Benelux, the Americas, Lebanon, Kuwait, Russia and Ukraine. For retail, the focus is on China, through seven mono-brand stores, while there is also a factory outlet in Pistoia, Tuscany. “The countries change, but the mantra remains the same,” said Cappelloni. “Service, service, service. An engine that will lead us, together with the product and new social media communication strategies, towards our goal of high double-digit revenues in the coming year. (a.b.)

the environment. “From outerwear to swimwear, we offer garments made in recycled materials, a theme to which kids are very sensitive to nowadays. We’ve even made a video to raise awareness on the subject, accompanied by the hashtag #gobeyondplastic, which will be broadcast on our digital channels, in showrooms and in our stores,” Grasso underscored. North Sails’ commitment to sustainability has intensified over the past three years, as the brand has embraced alternative raw materials such as organic cotton and recycled ones like Taslan and plastic that is recycled for packaging and hangers. The brand has also made strides to associate itself with initiatives such as regular beach cleaning. “A collection must have content, because customers don’t just look at the price. It’s the value of the brand that counts and it is not by chance that logo-branded garments are among the most sought-after,” Grasso said.  (a.b.)


LICENSE WITH BRAVE KID

Trussardi Junior Plans Digital Communication Project The Levriero-based junior brand unfurls a broader repositioning strategy

The last two years have been decisive for the Trussardi Junior brand. Since entrusting the production and distribution licence to Brave Kid (OTB Group), the company has invested its efforts into a repositioning activity, in order to strengthen its ties to the DNA of the adult Trussardi brand. The result is a collection that is increasingly in-line with the demands of international markets and one that is achieving new goals. A digital communication project, which will start as early as the second half of this year is in the pipeline and will focus on small influencers, closely followed by their peers. In addition, work on the e-commerce channel is being intensified, together with several global partners, the latest of which is Nickis.com. In general, distribution is selective, with Italy as the main country of reference, followed by former-USSR countries. Trussardi Junior is available in some mono-brand stores together with the adult line, including the flagship store in Piazza della Scala in Milan, as well as in major wholesale boutiques. The assortment ranges from four to 16 years and for the time being, no baby collection has been considered. This may, however, change in the future, given the demand from certain markets. The male sector is the strongest, though with the advent of Brave Kid, the female line is carving out even more space (in the photo, the springsummer 2020 collection).  (a.b.)

HIGHLIGHTS AT PITTI BIMBO

Zero & Company Grows With Sunstripes And Les Hommes “Inspiration is evolution and evolution is love” is the leitmotiv of Sunstripes, a brand synonimous with a free spirit in outdoor and beachwear, which presented at Pitti Bimbo its kidswear collection, launched in Autumn-Winter 2019/2020. The collection is produced from spring-summer 2020 by Zero & Company, an Italian firm that has been specialized in this sector for 30 years. Its own brands are Pastello and Lalalù, but there are also many licenses in its portfolio: Cesare Paciotti, Boy London, Carlo Pignatelli Junior, Iceberg and more. The first goal of Sunstripes’ kids collection (owned fifty-fifty by Zero & Company and the founders Lucia Bondi and Paolo Mucciora) is to get a strong presence in Italy and then expand in countries like Holland, Belgium, Spain and the Arab countries. But there is more to tell: a new entry for Zero & Company is the mini me version of Les Hommes, that aims to be distributed in selected high level stores as the main collection, in about 100 Italian stores but also with a strong focus on foreign markets. (a.b.)

Balmain To Unveil Newborn Capsule The Balmain Newborn collection will hit stores with spring-summer 2020 inside the Balmain Kids collection, produced under license by Italy’s Simonetta. The new line will feature baby grows, tops, trousers, sleep sacks and accessories such as socks, hats and bibs. Babies’ proposals are conceived by Creative Director Olivier Rousteing in perfect synthony with the “Balmain Army”, the main theme of the adult collection. Distinctive features of the newborn capsule include the monogram, reminiscent of some of the designs by the founder of the brand, Pierre Balmain, with his initials as well as the P of Paris. Other features are the Marine style and the brand’s classic black and white combo. (a.b.)

SLIDING DOORS

Imelde Bronzieri: “I’m Starting Out On A New Journey” From spring-summer 2020 onwards, Imelde Bronzieri and the Mimisol brand, which she founded in 2011 and which has a strong international appeal thanks to a mix of quality, poetry and contemporaneity, will be parting ways. But for her, known as a protagonist of Italian childrenswear, this is not the time to retire to private life. Some sneak previews can be seen in her Instagram account and in a press release. “Imelde will continue her professional career in new ways. Using her strong experience and incessant desire for innovation in style and materials, she will face new challenges with the maturity that comes from an awareness of the path taken so far and from the solidity of the results achieved,” the designer-entrepreneur said. Although leaving the social media profiles linked to the Mimisol brand behind, “Imelde will continue to keep in touch with the many friends, customers and followers on her personal accounts where those who know, respect and love her will be able to continue sharing with her the next steps in her journey in a children’s world”. (a.b.)

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®

ZEGNA BARUFFA LANE BORGOSESIA S.p.A. FILATURA IN VALDILANA - ITALY


PITTI SPRING-SUMMER 2020

GEARING MIDNIGHT UP FOR HOUR

LAMBERTO LOSANI

TIMELESS PRODUCTS BOASTING THE HIGHEST QUALITY. ARTISAN PROCESSES USED IN ABUNDANCE. NEW TECHNIQUES FEATURED IN CONTEMPORARY ADAPTATION OF ICONIC MODELS. WORTHY ESSENTIALS OF THE MALE WARDROBE. INNOVATIVE LINES DEDICATED TO THOSE WHO AMAZE DAY AFTER DAY EVOLVE WHILE REMAINING YOURSELF. BY ALBERTO CORRADO

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PITTI SPRING-SUMMER 2020

DISTRETTO12

Tailored honeycomb suit with light cotton shirt and floral print.

BAGUTTA

Short- or long-sleeved shirts in floral, safari and also plain prints, in cotton and denim.

ANGELO NARDELLI

Deconstructed jackets and shirts with tailored fit, enhancing the fit and quality of materials.

DRUMOHR

Relaxed jacket in small madras squares, classic macro check trousers, superlight cardigan, superfine cotton shirt.

THE LIFE LIVING s

The new collections see the return of the golden rules of the sartorial workshop, in which respect for tradition is combined with a notion of discreet luxury and harmony, favouring pieces that are sophisticated, but never exhibitionist.

L.B.M. 1911

Two-button jacket with a distinctly tailored flavour, wide lapels, natural but slightly furrowed shoulder and mother-of-pearl buttons.

BARBATI

Striped double-breasted jacket with wide lapels, light knit polo shirt on white cotton trousers.

TAGLIATORE

Extra-light suit with two-button single-breasted jacket, tailored details and laser-cut buttons showcasing the Tagliatore logo. Tracksuit pant with sporty mood.

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SANT'ANDREA MILANO

Double-breasted suit with arched shoulders and striking lapels, field jacket in technical wool combined with deep blue shirt and cardigan and light trousers.

PENCE 1979

Denim jacket and shirt on trousers in madras fabric.


I TA L I A N THEORY s

Collections that perfectly represent the aesthetics of Italian taste, outlining a different and more delicate concept of contemporary luxury. Soft designs and details typical of sartorial elegance are enhanced by sophisticated textile blends.

DORIA 1905.

Panama hat hand woven with traditional craft and passion, in natural colours or bright tones.

OFFICINA 36

Field Jacket in cotton with a soft, deconstructed line, in Conero beige.

SCAGLIONE

Subtly voluminous polo shirt with knitted stitch and rugby-striped pattern, in dusty nuances

BARACUTA

The mythical '60s G9 Suede, worn by Ryan O'Neal in the role of Rodney Harrington in Peyton Place, has been re-designed in a new and colourful palette.

MICHAEL COAL

Trousers of the highest quality made in Italy using refined fabrics an adorned with handmade details.

CIRCOLO 1901

Jackets and shirts express an easy classic attitude through stripes, checks and denim versions.

HERNO GLOBE

The garments on the new Herno Globe label are made of 84% recycled nylon fabric with ecofriendly zips and buttons.

TRAIANO

Garden Jacket in natural striped fabric.

BRIGLIA 1949

100% sustainable trousers made of stretch recycled cotton with recycled paper buttons and organic cotton linings. All colour dyes are eco-friendly.

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FERRANTE

Crew neck and polo shirts with zero weight effect, breathable and fresh, for garments that feel almost like a second skin.

BLAUER

Racing jacket in two-tone red and milk white leather, with full zip and patch.

SLAM

100 gr nylon foldable, waterproof and breathable ripstop jacket, in ferocious racing colour.

DIGEL

Field Jackets, parkas, sweaters and shorts in a soft, relaxed style. Denim is no exception, characterised by a washed distressed-denim effect.

RRD

Trousers and shirts with high elasticity technical performance, using Lycra dyed with indigo pigment.

AUTOMOBILI LAMBORGHINI

Supercar jacket in black leather with racing cuts and Verde Selvans fluorescent profiles, polo shirt in bio-ceramic material with bacteria- and heatregulating properties.

DICKSON

Shirts in light cotton fabric or denim dĂŠlavĂŠ are enriched with striped details, check and floral and afro prints.

REBEL YELL s

AT.P.CO

Tracksuit with two-tone look and macro logo.

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Sports-inspired heritage garments influenced by the East Coast, American scene, alongside more fashion-forward models. A mix of contemporary iconic style with a twist of innovative materials for a style that is relaxed without being casual and classic without being predictable.

DIKTAT

Polo shirts and knitwear made with fine yarns for a sporty and refined style, incorporating original details such as prints and graphic effects.


VEEPEE for

Veepee Steps Up The Pace In Italy: Double Figure Growth In Turnover For All Categories THE NEW GLOBAL E-TAILER, THE EVOLUTION OF THE VENTE-PRIVEE GROUP, ENDED 2018 WITH RECORD SALES INCREASES ACROSS ALL SECTORS, FROM BABY&KIDS (+44%) TO ACCESSORIES (+34%) AND CLOTHING (+21%). FABIO BONFÀ, REGIONAL MANAGER SOUTHERN EUROPE & LATAM, UNDERLINES «WE PROVIDE BRANDS WITH UNIQUE VALUE» In an announcement to the Italian press at the start of June, the Vente-Privee Group, inventor and leader of flash sales, officially announced it has become Veepee: a unique global brand inspired by a common vision and strong innovative spirit. In the words of Fabio Bonfà, Regional Manager Veepee Southern Europe and Latam, the «Veepee unveiling marks an important turning point for the company. Rebranding is the symbol of successful integration following on from group acquisitions over the last few years, marking the creation of a common company culture. This strategic change is in line with our desire to engage with brands all over Europe, to provide them with a unique value, embracing different requirements: from the sale of stock to notoriety development, data and traffic. All this while remaining mindful of end consumer requirements and desires, with the creation of engaging and unique experiences through a quality offer and shopping experience.» The success of the Veepee formula is

confirmed by figures which have shown growth at both global and local level, with turnover up across all sectors of the multi-specialised Veepee offer. The sharpest rise was in Baby&Kids, +44%, followed by Accessories, which shot up by 34%, Clothing up 21%, Sports +18%, Home&Decor up 15% and Beauty,+12%. Category offers have also been developed in Italy, with the recent launch in the Travel segment: Veeppe Viaggi, one of the Fabio Bonfà Regional strongest department on the international scene, Manager generating 300 million euros of turnover and atSouthern Europe & Latam tracting 1 million travellers in 2018. Italy for Veepee has always been a strategic market for brands and business development. 90% of over 900 Italian brands with whom Veepee collaborates reach out to an extra-domestic market, European in particular. Veepee has often contributed towards the expansion of brands, developing awareness and reinforcing positioning, enabling them to put themselves out there and test products on new markets.

www.veepee.com


PITTI SPRING-SUMMER 2020

PIQUADRO

Rucksack designed to carry technological devices day-in-day-out by scooter, bicycle, train and plane.

MEZULIC

Knitwear with refined yarn and artisan workmanship giving a clear line, 100% made in Italy.

GABRIELE PASINI

Vatican canvas dress with wide pinstripe, check shirt with silk tie, Prince of Wales duster in wool, silk and linen.

LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA

Wool, silk and linen jacket with pied-de poule design, waistcoat and trousers in dark brown and terracotta tones.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

Stars of the evening, with suits and jackets, formal shirts in Korean style and bow ties.

ALESSANDRO GHERARDI

Classic model shirt with modern fit and collar developed on striped fabric.

INGRAM

Cotton pique shirts in light colours or accented with stripes or micro patterns. The summer season starts here.

GROOVE BACK s

SARTORIA LATORRE

Two-button jacket in pinstripe fabric, style details such as buttonholes, stitching, linings and buttons all revisited, for an immediate perception of luxury.

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The beauty of Italian landscapes, architecture and monuments is translated into unique colours and shades. Details and fabrics create a men’s wardrobe in which every element becomes an ideal work of art.

OFFICINE CREATIVE

Distressed leather trainer with natural rubber sole.


HAND PICKED

White cotton shorts with buttons, drawstring and tropical print with parrots

MINO RONZONI

Two-tone inlaid trainer with a very soft, tanned leather bag with distressed appeal

BUGATTI

Three-button safari jacket in light fabric, with wide lapels and overlapping pockets

TINTORIA MATTEI

Shirt with regular '80s inspired fit on India print (Tintoria Mattei archives).

MANUEL RITZ

Striped sweater jacket combined with a full zip shirt with white cotton hood and matching trousers

NINETY DEGREES s

The coexistence of different, sometimes opposite trends that characterised the nineties is revived with infinite style, invention, modernity and lifestyle possibilities. Companies take their different approaches to this pursuit of experimentation, based on freedom of expression.

LARDINI

Trench coat made with knitting yarns, doublebreasted jacket in Varadero blue and iconic Cuban striped Guayabera knitwear.

THE BRIDGE

Rucksack with full-grain leather storage pocket and country stitching.

BERWICH

These 4-fit Italian trousers boast a dandy identity expressed in regimental stripes, checks and tartans in tropical colours.

XACUS

Shirts in fresh and light fabrics, guaranteeing absolute comfort and a perfect fit.

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tatras-official.com


PITTI 96 OUTERWEAR SPRING-SUMMER 2020

ADVENTURE ESSENTIALS BY ALBERTO CORRADO/PHOTO BY FZEROPHOTOGRAPHERS/PITTI UOMO 96

OUTERWEAR DESIGNED FOR LEISURE TIME BECOMES CHIC AND RESISTANT TO WEATHER CHANGES. IN THE RETURN TO MINIMAL STYLE, TRUE QUALITY IS THE KEY STRENGTH. AN ARTISAN ADVENTURE THAT TURNS INTO A PHILOSOPHY OF LIFE FOR TIMELESS, MULTIFUNCTIONAL GARMENTS.

PAUL&SHARK

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PITTI 96 OUTERWEAR SPRING-SUMMER 2020

ELLESSE

MONTECORE OOF WEAR

POLLINI

FREEDOMDAY

OUTHERE

ATHLETIC

MINDS Garments with a dynamic character, enriched by strong technological heritage. The stretch nylon jacket is intertwined with thermo-regulation properties, the supercar jacket features racing cuts and polo shirts and sweaters bear special textures that are ideal for everyday life and sport even at high temperatures.

TATRAS

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HEVO

P4 4 8


Telling sea stories in a way that is evocative, tactile and visual. Every garment is the expression of an authentic logbook kept during long ocean voyages and are distinguished by a contemporary style with a strong identity in shades of navy or royal blue, brightened by orange and yellow.

ROBERTO COLLINA

PEOPLE OF SHIBUYA

STYLE

NAVIGATOR

SUN 68

LUMBERJACK

NORTH SAILS VIBRAM

BARBOUR

FILA

GUM

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PITTI 96 OUTERWEAR SPRING-SUMMER 2020

MOOSE KNUCKLES ARMATA DI MARE

AEREONAUTICA MILITARE

ROSSIGNOL

BIKKEMBERGS

BOMBOOGIE

FURIOUS

MEN The dynamism and speed with which looks are interchanged in everyday life are the leitmotif of collections in which cotton garments, such as sweatshirts and trousers showcase active details, combined with technical jackets: the calling cards of high-performance style.

BEST COMPANY

NINE IN THE MORNING

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HYDROGEN


Eco-friendly and high-tech fabrics take the spotlight. The outdoor mood is revisited through details and uses, featuring a mix of materials, reflective finishes and 90s inspirations. Versatility and lightness reinforce the dual-purpose concept, moving from an urban lifestyle to natural settings.

COLMAR ORIGINAL

MACKAGE

DUAL

PURPOSE

SAVE THE DUCK

PARAJUMPERS DUNO

WOOLRICH

CRUCIANI

HAVANA&CO

FREDDY BY LUCA TOMMASSINI

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Our road to Zero

Beyond being green, we are proud to be transparent. See our MRSL DETOX

www.lampo.eu


WSM SPRING-SUMMER 2020

FOK US on

GREEN METAMORPHOSIS IN THE NAME OF NOVELTY AT WSM - WHITE STREET MARKET, THE BUSINESS&CONSUMER EVENT IN ZONA TORTONA, MILAN. ULTRA-YOUNG BRANDS AND ARTISAN FIRMS SHOWCASE A MIX OF DESIGN, INNOVATION AND SUSTAINABILITY, DEDICATED TO FORGING A GREATER AWARENESS AROUND COMMERCIAL APPEAL, RAISING THE AWARENESS OF VISITORS AS TO THE IMPORTANCE OF PROTECTING THE ENVIRONMENT, AND MORE. INCULCATING THE IDEA OF THE IMPORTANCE OF QUALITY, AS OPPOSED TO THE QUANTITY, OF CLOTHES WE BUY IS A KEY POINT AT THE EVENT. BUY LESS BUT BUY BETTER. BY ALBERTO CORRADO

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WSM SPRING-SUMMER 2020

RETURN TO SUBSTANCE

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MANY BRANDS CONTINUOUSLY BREAK THE MOULDS OF HIGH AND LOW FASHION WITH HANDMADE HYBRID GARMENTS AND SURPRISING TEXTURAL INTERVENTIONS.

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1 FOOTLOCKER X BODEGA Basketball Planter provided with galvanised metal chain and attachments for easy coupling. 2 OTTOMONDI Tunic-

waistcoat with full zip and flap pockets, for wear with a cross body waist pouch, featuring a sporty style with a hint of East Asia. 3 ENCLAVE MONARCHY Jacket with large flap pockets, belt and central zip. 4TEESHARE Short sleeved t-shirt, with plunging round neckline and raglan sleeves. 5 NOVE 25 Grumette square chain bracelet with box clasp. 6 HAIRY FOOLS -DEE ROSSE Rosse Slime model top in fluorescent lime green colour. 7 ROLD SKOW Short sleeved shirt with jellyfish print. 8 NO MADE BOARDS A project by three youths united by a desire to take surf culture back to its origins, by connecting design, technological innovation, research into materials and eco-sustainability.

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FREEDOM TO MOVE

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4

6

NEW GENERATION BRANDS ARE PUTTING SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY ABOVE GLAMOUR AND PROFIT, HELPING THEIR CONSUMERS BREATHE A LITTLE DEEPER. 2

3

7

5

8

1 WALTER KULT Sweater and jogging bottoms. 2 SPEKTRE Morgan model in acetate, with 22 mm bridge. 3 FREITAG Shopping bag made from milk tetra pack packaging (up to 20), inspired by paper bags typically used for food shopping in Switzerland. 4 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Africa Bags

made in Nairobi by the precious hands of local artisans, capable of reinterpreting prints from the brand’s archive, using coffee sacks or the sails of boats. 5 CANDIANI DENIM Denim in organic cotton and artificial fibres produced using sustainable technology, reducing water consumption and using recycled materials. 6 HUMAN WOT ATTITUDE Multi-use trousers which turn into shorts thanks to zips on legs, with side pockets and pockets with flap. Silicon patch and adjustable belt around the waist. 7 MOVITRA Volta C24 Demo Lenses model in cellulose acetate, with flexible stems. 8 FILA A model in technical fabric with logo, laces, round-tip, fabric inner and rubber sole.

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SAINT LAURENT

BEAUTY, IN ADDITION TO SAVING THE WORLD, CAN CHANGE MAN'S SENSITIVITIES BY MERGING PAST AND PRESENT, TAILORING AND SPORTSWEAR, AND EMBODYING A FUSION OF TRADITION AND MODERNITY. BY ALBERTO CORRADO

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@imaxtree.com

ESCAPE ROUTE


MEN’S FASHION SHOWS SPRING-SUMMER 2020

TAKAHIROMIYASHITA-THE SOLOIST

PHILIPPE PLEIN

GIORGIO ARMANI

AMIRI

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JUUN J

CROOKED FELLOWS

ANGUS CHIANG

E TAUZ

FENG CHEN WANG


UNIVERSITY OF WESTMINSTER

AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI

PAL ZILERI

RAF SIMONS

MASTER BATCH

DAVID CATALAN

ROKSANDA

ACNE STUDIO

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

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JIL SANDER

DOLCE & GABBANA

ETRO

MARNI

WILD BLOSSOMING

LOUIS VUITTON

ROKSANDA

LES HOMMES 94

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LIAM HODGES

HERMÈS


SUSTAINABLE INTERLININGS


MEN’S CATWALK SPRING-SUMMER 2020

ICEBERG

FENDI

PRADA

CELINE

STRINGS ATTACHED

JACQUEMUS

ROKSANDA

STEFAN COOKE 96

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J.W. ANDERSON

SUNNEI


JUNYA WATANABE

COMME DES GARÇONS

M1992

EMPORIO ARMANI

NEIL BARRETT

NUMERO 00

YARD TIME

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

THOM BROWNE

BALMAIN

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YOUSER

PRIVATE POLICY

MARCELO BURLON COUNTY OF MILAN

GIVENCHY

CRAIG GREEN

JORDAN LUCA

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NOUVEAU GLITCH

QASIMI

RICK OWENS

VETEMENTS


MEN’S CATWALK SPRING-SUMMER 2020

SPYDER

ÉTUDES

FREAK PEAK OFF WHITE

A COLD WALL

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FUMITO GANRYU

DIOR

ISSEY MIYAKE


ST JAMES'S

CHALAYAN

HERON PRESTON

MÃœNN

MIGUEL VIEIRA

SHORT NOTICE

WOOYOUNGMI

SSS WORLD CORP

STUDIO ALCH

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MEN’S CATWALK SPRING-SUMMER 2020

ALYX

NICHOLAS DALEY

ARTHUR AVELLANO

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

102

BERLUTI

FLASH FLOOD

Y PROJECT

BED JW FORD

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UNITED STANDARD

SIES MARJAN


SACAI

VALENTINO

DEVOTE MACHO MAGLIANO

WHITE MOUNTAINEERING

DRIES VAN NOTEN

VERSACE

DSQUARED2

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MENSWEAR SPRING SUMMER 2020

AUGMENTED INTIMACY A TALE OF FOUR CITIES. A STORY OF FASHION AND CREATIVITY, WITH ADDED BENEFIT OF RESEARCH. FOR A MAN WHO DRESSES IN BRIGHT COLOURS AND WITH A NEW EASE. BY ALBERTO CORRADO

LA MARTINA RE-SIZED BY AP

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MENSWEAR SPRING SUMMER 2020

1

1

KENSINGTON FIZZ 1 PRINGLE OF SCOLTAND 2 BAND OF OUTSIDERS 3 JONATHAN SAUNDERS

2

VILLAGE JAZZ 1 LINDER PO 2 AMIROK

2

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3


1

2

3

7

9

ISOLA SPRITZ 1 SANTONII 2 JIMMY CHOO 3 KITON 4 CONTE OF FLORENCE 5 AVIREX 6 ORCIANI 7 ASPESI 8 MISSONI 9 ELEVENTY 10 LUCIO VANOTTI

4

5

6

8

10

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MENSWEAR SPRING SUMMER 2020

1

4

JUS DU MARAIS 2

1 NANUSKA 2 UNRAVEL 3 ZADIG VOLTAIRE 4 ALANUI 5 MYAR 6 SANDRO

3

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6


RESORT COLLECTIONS 2020

ROCK, RICE & VIDEOSTREAMS THE RESORT 2020 COLLECTIONS ARE THE AESTHETIC SYNTHESIS OF AN OPTIMISTIC, SOMETIMES NAÏVE, WORLD VIEW. THE CLEANLY CUT MINI AND MAXI DRESSES HAVE DEEP NECKLINES, NARROW WAISTS AND SOMETIMES EXAGGERATED VOLUMES, GIVING THE IMPRESSION OF A YOUNG FEMININITY THAT IS MORE HEDONISTIC AND AWARE THAN EVER. BY ALBERTO CORRADO 1

FORTE FORTE

THE PERFECT BALANCE BETWEEN TAILORING AND ETHNIC HERITAGE, STRIPPED OF CONFORMISM AND FOLLOWING THE RHYTHM OF A SEA BREEZE OR SOUNDS OF THE CARIBBEAN, LUSH AND TRULY VOLUPTUOUS. A GAME OF FABRICS AND EMBROIDERY THAT MIXES WITH FLOWERS AND MULTICOLOUR JACQUARD. THE SOUL OF THE CLOTHES IS LINKED TO THEIR COLOURS: SKY BLUE, FLAME RED, MELON YELLOW, ALOE AND BUTTER, REMINISCENT OF EVENINGS BY THE OCEAN. 2

BOTTEGA VENETA

EVOLVING ELEGANCE IS EXPRESSED IN FLUID AND DELICATE FABRICS AND SILHOUETTES THAT ACQUIRE A NEW SOFTNESS, IN HARMONY WITH THE SEASON. THE QUILTING BECOMES MICRO, WHILE THE KNITWEAR RECLAIMS THE WOVEN AND HAS A CONSTRUCTION UNIQUE TO ITS KIND. THE COLOUR PALETTE IS LIGHT AND WARM: FROM THE NEUTRAL SHADES OF SANDSTONE TO BROWN, FROM BLACK AND WHITE TO THE NATURAL SHADES OF PISTACHIO, SAGE GREEN AND LIMONCELLO. 3

DROME

AN EXERCISE IN TIMELESS REFINEMENT RESTYLES CLASSIC GARMENTS TO ACHIEVE THE MOST CONTEMPORARY OF AESTHETIC CANONS. LEATHER IS INTERPRETED AS A LIVING AND NATURAL MATERIAL, WITH WHICH SHAPES AND THEMES ARE DEVELOPED THAT MOVE AWAY FROM THE CLASSIC CONCEPT OF THE "LEATHER WARDROBE". THE ATMOSPHERE IS WARM, MADE OF COLOURS THAT BLEND WITH EACH OTHER, IN THE NAME OF HARMONY INSPIRED BY THE NATURE OF SUMMER.

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 1

ANTONIO MARRAS

INSPIRED BY THE PICTURESQUE PAINTINGS OF THE ARTIST WILLIAM H. JOHNSON, ANTONIO MARRAS BUILDS THE WARDROBE OF A FANCIFUL SEAMSTRESS WHO SEWS HER BEAUTIFUL AND CHIC CLOTHES ON SUNDAY AT THE ABYSSINIAN BAPTIST CHURCH ON 138TH STREET. THE SENSE OF CRAFTSMANSHIP AND THE EXUBERANCE OF COLOUR CHARACTERISE OUTERWEAR REWORKED FROM OLD FABRICS OR BROCADES INSPIRED BY UPHOLSTERY, EMBELLISHED WITH CRYSTALS AND EMBROIDERY, WHILE THE MICRO FLORAL LACES BECOME SEDUCTIVE TEA DRESSES. 2

BLUMARINE

DESIGNER ANNA MOLINARI IS INSPIRED BY JANE BIRKIN AND HER SENSUAL AND INNOCENT '70S. INNOCENCE MIXED WITH PROVOCATION IS INTERPRETED IN CHIFFON DRESSES IN PINK CARAMEL LAYERS, BRIGHT PINK PENCIL SKIRTS AND KNITWEAR IN POWDER PINK COTTON CROCHET. A SYMPHONY OF LANGUID COLOURS CAN BE FOUND IN THE ORGANZA BLOUSES WITH LIME GREEN BOWS AND LEOPARD PRINTS, IN THE SUGARY MIX OF A WOW-FACTOR WRAPCOAT IN BOUCLÉ WOOL WITH A FRINGED HEM, AND IN A PAIR OF SEXY SHORTS MATCHED WITH A SHORT TOP IN LIPSTICK PRINT. 3

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

A NEW TAILORING STYLE WITH CASUAL FEATURES IS CELEBRATED IN THE BRIGHT COLOURS OF THIS COLLECTION, INSPIRED BY THE LEGENDARY LANDSCAPES OF NEW MEXICO. GARMENTS DESIGNED TO TRAVEL AND TO FACE THE HEAT: FROM THE SHORT SATIN BOMBER IN MEZCAL TEAL COLOUR COMBINED WITH TROUSERS AND SHIRT IN TYRONE TURQUOISE COLOUR, TO THE PLEATED SKIRT IN YELLOW LEATHER THAT PAIRS WITH A BLACK T-SHIRT WITH LOGO. FORMAL STRIPES IN DJELLABA STYLE FIND THEMSELVES ON SHORT-SLEEVED DRESSES IN LEATHER, MEZCAL TEAL AND DESERT CORAL TONES OR ON SHIRTS WITH ORIGAMI PLEATS.

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RESORT COLLECTIONS 2020

1

MOSCHINO

JEREMY SCOTT HAS CLOSE TIES WITH THE WORLD OF CINEMA OR, RATHER, THE SURREAL/UNREAL. HE THUS SETS RESORT 2020 IN UNIVERSAL STUDIOS, LOS ANGELES, INSPIRED BY THE CLASSIC HOLLYWOOD HORROR MOVIES. THE GARMENTS EMERGE FROM A FOGGY TWILIGHT, WHERE BLOOD RED AND ELECTRIC BLUE PVC TRENCH COATS ARE WORN OVER MULTICOLOURED SUITS, WHILE BLACK CRÊPE DE CHINE OR COTTON DRESSES HAVE EMBROIDERED GOLD CHAINS IN THE SHAPE OF COBWEBS OR STARS OF BEADS AND CRESCENT MOONS IN PASTEL SHADES. 2

FAUSTO PUGLISI

A SEXY COLLECTION, FOR BOLD WOMEN WHO HAVE NO PROBLEM SHOWING OFF EVERY INCH OF SKIN. THE RESULT IS A RANGE OF BODY-CONSCIOUS PIECES THAT FOCUS ON COLOUR CONTRASTS (FROM PASTEL TONES TO PALE YELLOW AND LAVENDER) AND THE SEARCH FOR BAROQUE EMBROIDERY. THIS STYLE IS ENRICHED BY THE RIGHT MIX OF LUXURY AND TAILORING, TO DESIGN THE NEW GLAMOUR OF CONTEMPORARY WOMEN. 3

PHILOSOPHY BY LORENZO SERAFINI

LORENZO SERAFINI DESIGNS THE WARDROBE OF A WOMAN WHO LOVES TO HAVE FUN WITH PLAYFUL PIECES FOR DAY AND EVENING WEAR. A COLLECTION INSPIRED BY THE TWO SISTERS OF GRIMALDI HOUSE, CAROLINE AND STEPHANIE OF MONACO, BUT ALSO BY THE MISCHIEVOUS BEAUTY OF BROOKE SHIELDS. A PERFECT RETROSPECTIVE OF THE '80S, MADE UP OF ROUND SHOULDER JACKETS, HIGH-WAISTED DENIM TROUSERS COMBINED WITH SAILOR-STRIPED SWEATERS, SHORT DRESSES IN BRIGHT OR TIGHT COLOURS, WITH SEQUINS AND FLORAL PRINTS.

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Come to meet French know-how on Milano Unica trade show from 9 to 11 July 2019

DEVEAUX www.deveaux.com

12.D19

INDUO® www.induo.fr

DUTEL CREATION www.dutelsa.com

12.D11

LES TISSAGES PERRIN www.tissages-perrin.com

12.F15

MALHIA KENT www.malhia.fr

12.C17

HENITEX INTERNATIONAL www.henitex.fr

12.A08

12.A06

At the heart of textile evolution www.techtera.org Organised by Techtera with the support of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Region.


CHILDRENSWEAR SPRING-SUMMER 2020

AN EFFERVESCENT JOURNEY THAT STARTS WITH URBAN ICONS AND BLENDS INTO THE CHROMATIC FLASHES OF EXOTIC PARADISES. THE IRIDESCENT COLOURS OF NATURE, FROM BRIGHT PINK TO THE GREEN SHADES OF TROPICAL LEAVES. ECLECTIC MATERIALS, FOR DAILY WEAR THAT EVOLVES IN SYNC WITH SPORTSWEAR. FIRST AND FOREMOST, CARE IS PAID TO THE ENVIRONMENT, WITH NON-TOXIC DYES AND THE USE OF ORGANIC COTTON. A MAGICAL SPACE DEDICATED TO A UNIQUE, PERSONAL AND FUN LIFESTYLE.

IL GUFO

PLAYING

IT TOUGH

BY ALBERTO CORRADO

09_07_2019

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PREVIEW SPRING-SUMMER 2020

ERMANNO SCERVINO JUNIOR

LE PETIT COCÃ’ BOSS GIRL

MONTELPARE

FENDI KIDS

DOLCE&GABBANA DOLLS

SIMONETTA

SPECIAL DAY An urban yet luxurious style, which winks at the modern formal, reinterpreting the classics from a modern perspective. Casual, tailored elements are developed in light fabrics, with a palette that starts from a white, blue and grey base, and ends in the brightest shades of yellow and orange.

JARRETT

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NATURINO


WALMAX

ALICE PI

TUC TUC

SARABANDA

BLAUER JUNIOR

MARNI KIDS

MARINA SANDS

Spend the summer in the open air, walking the most colourful streets on earth with a bag made of essential pieces. A fresh and lively collection, which translates into vibrant shapes, nuances and inspirations: from neon touches to yellow, coral and orange.

PAN CON CHOCOLATE

PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI MINI MELISSA

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PREVIEW SPRING-SUMMER 2020

INFANTIUM VICTORIA

TWINSET GIRL

BILLIEBLUSH

C’ERA UNA VOLTA

JACOB COHEN KIDS

KOCCA GIRLS

PAOLO PECORA KIDS

ARI LONDON

BRAVE FACE

The keyword is fun, for a playful look with interactive graphics, colours and fun details. The backdrop is the world of summer games, where the protagonists are sweatshirts, denim and jerseys. Easy-to-wear garments, but with refined details, in captivating colours HERNO KIDS

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PH Francesco Guazzelli

PREVIEW SPRING-SUMMER 2020

FRACOMINA PINKO UP

BOBOLI

EMILIO PUCCI JUNIOR

ICE ICEBERG

GUESS KIDS

PETIT BATEAU

MIMISOL

MINIBANDA

WRECKING BALL A tribute to energy, speed and movement, thanks to the desire to leave the bad weather behind and enter the new season at full throttle. References to metropolitan atmospheres give a colourful, pop sporty couture: sweatshirts and denim alternate with technical fabrics and knitwear, in a clashing of textures and fabrics.

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La Fiera Internazionale per la Moda : Tessuti, Merceria, Accessori

16 – 19 Settembre 2019 Paris Le Bourget Francia www.texworld-paris.com


PREVIEW SPRING-SUMMER 2020

DIESEL KID

EMPORIO ARMANI JUNIOR

NORTH SAILS

BRUMS SAVE THE OCEAN

WOOLRICH KIDS

MONNALISA

PLAY HARD

CIESSE PIUMINI JUNIOR BALMAIN NEWBORN

Tailored yet ultra-comfortable silhouettes follow movement and feature technical details for tracksuits, leggings, jogging trousers, reversible jackets, T-shirts, tank tops and sweaters in jersey and cotton. The sweatshirt, star of the season, is enriched with patterns and patches, combined with trainers tailored to all kinds of competition.

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PRIMIGI


PARIS SEPT.

17 >19 2019 YARNS FABRICS LEATHER DESIGNS ACCESSORIES MANUFACTURING


CAREERS A CURA DI ANDREA BIGOZZI

Moda Operandi Hires Managing Director Of China

Kering Taps Bartolomeo Rongone to Lead Bottega Veneta

Kering has named Bartolomeo Rongone as chief executive officer of Bottega Veneta, succeeding Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, who is stepping down for personal reasons. Effective from September 1st, 2019, Rongone will report to FrançoisHenri Pinault, chairman and ceo of Kering. Rongone will also be a member of the Group’s Executive Committee. Fashion industry veteran “Leo” Rongone, was previously chief operating officer of Yves Saint Laurent who was responsible for ready-to-wear, leather goods and shoes, as well as global retail operations and client engagement. As ceo of Bottega Veneta, his mission will be to realize the full potential of the new creative force that has been driving the Italian Maison since 2018 ,when Daniel Lee was hired as creative director.

Benetton Family’s Holding Company Appoints Gianni Mion as Chairman Zadig & Voltaire Poaches Arnaud Louet from Maisons du Monde

Zadig & Voltaire appoints Louet to the newly created post of deputy general manager in charge of finance. Louet’s position at Zadig & Voltaire, where he reports to general manager Jean-Jacques Guével and ceo and founder Thierry Gillier, is a new role within the structure. Louet duties as deputy general manager will commence July 3. The former cfo of French fashion retailer Maisons du Monde also held a similar position at Conforama.

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Edizione, the holding company of Italy’s Benetton family, appointed veteran manager Gianni Mion as chairman of the group’s new board. Edizione said in a statement that its new board will remain in place until the approval of full-year 2019 results. Mion, who replaces Fabio Cerchiai as chairman, was the long-time righthand man of Gilberto Benetton, the late cofounder of retailer United Colors of Benetton. The board now includes: Alessandro Benetton, son of Luciano, Christian Benetton, son of Carlo; Franca Bertagnin Benetton, daughter of Giuliana; Sabrina Benetton, daughter of Gilberto, Carlo Bertazzo, Fabio Cerchiai, Giovanni Costa and Mion, a veteran and loyal executive at the company.

Moda Operandi hires of Ming Yang as its managing director of China. Ming will act as Moda Operandi’s first employee in China, growing the company’s Shanghai team and overseeing all of Moda Operandi’s business strategy and operations in mainland China. She will report directly to Moda Operandi ceo Ganesh Srivats. Ming joins Moda Operandi with rich experience introducing major e-commerce and marketplace businesses to the Chinese market, most recently having served as managing director for Greater China and the Asia Pacific region at Farfetch. Prior to Farfetch, Ming served as the China Country Manager for ShopRunner Inc. While Moda Operandi has served the Chinese customer for years, Ming’s appointment represents the e-commerce’s official entry into the region, as it builds its strategy, operations, marketing, and personal-styling programs from Shanghai.

Scotch & Soda Names Frederick Lukoff Chief Executive Officer

Dutch fashion retailer Scotch & Soda has appointed Frederick Lukoff as its new CEO. His new appointment will be effective September 1, 2019. Lukoff will be joining the company from fashion house Stella McCartney, where he has been president and CEO for the past ten years. “I am absolutely delighted to be joining Scotch & Soda and working together with the team to continue the international success story of this Dutch fashion brand,” said 49-year-old Dutch-born executive in a release from Scotch & Soda. Lukoff started as ceo of Stella McCartney back in February 2009. Prior, to that he held senior roles at Lanvin, Paco Rabanne, and Courrèges.


NOV 13–14TH 2019

MUNICH

ESSOR C C A & S IC R NCE FAB A M R O F R E P FAIR FOR G IN ITORS C IB R H U X O E S L A N THE IO AT 290+ INTERN www.performancedays.com

IES


PORTRAITS

STEFANO SACCONE

WOOLRICH’S NEW CEO POISED TO TAKE COMPANY GLOBAL Woolrich’s Italian American CEO Stefano Saccone has just taken the reins of the company. With 20 years in sales, marketing, merchandising and a reputation for guiding top apparel and footwear brands like Ralph Lauren to Nike, Napapijri to Vans, he’s ready to expand the brand's business abroad BY CARLA MERCURIO

D

ynamic, athletic, with a curriculum bursting with important experiences, it is not by chance Woolrich tapped Italian-American Stefano Saccone as its new ceo, as the company eyes global growth. The 47 year old who replaces Paolo Corinaldesi was born in Baltimore to Italian parents (his mother stemming from Biella and his father from Naples, both university professors) and enters the company with a dual perspective, which prove an invaluable asset for the management of a US label by birth but European in terms of development, amid a new phase of Woolrich’s brand evolution, focused on its US business. Sacconi is married and lives between Paris and Bologna. He completed his eduction in the USA, graduating with a B.A. in International Relations from Johns Hopkins University followed by an M.B.A. in 2003 at the McDonough School of Business of Georgetown University,Washington. His career started in 1995, with key experiences at important companies including Ermenegildo Zegna, Procter&Gamble, Ralph Lauren and Nike. In 2012 he was approached by VF Corporation, where he climbed the ranks, moving from Napapijri to Eastpak and (recently) Vans, his last post before Woolrich. “Stefano Saccone’s arrival will provide us with a business-oriented imprinting and a more global vision. His international profile and significant professional experience will help us hone in on commercial and marketing experience, at a time in which we

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aim to create a new organisation for • Place of Birth ourselves, aligned with our future Baltimore, Maryland goals,” explains Andrea Canè, the label’s creative director. Canè is a • Degrees long-time proponent of Woolrich’s 1994: B.A. in International Relations, Johns Hopkins University evolution and built up the brand’s success alongside former majority 2003: M.B.A., McDonough School of Business, Georgetown University, Washington D.C. shareholder Cristina Calori, who left last year, after relinquishing • Work Experience the brand to the L-Gam fund, only In 1995 Saccone entered the Ermenegildo Zegna a couple of years after her acquisigroup in New York as Operations Manager and then as Sales Manager tion. Canè and Saccone will guide   the brand together, amid a crucial In 2002, he completed a brand management internship at Procter & Gamble, Cincinnati, Ohio and time marked by arrivals and deparwent on to become Assistant Brand Manager for the tures, acquisitions and management multinational in Geneva.   shifts, which also includes the Ja2005 gets Saccone appointment to Marketing panese Goldwin shareholder, which Director at Ralph Lauren and then to Senior entered into Woolrich as a minority Marketing Director at the company's Geneva headquarters in Switzerland shareholder in 2017. The aim is to   boost a growth plan focused on deIn 2009, he was appointed General Manager Sportswear & Actions Sports at Nike, Bologna veloping markets, including North   America, Asia, England and FranIn 2012 he entered VF Corporation as VP Sales & Marketing of Napapijri and then became VP/General ce, as well as the consolidation and Manager of Eastpak and recently, of Vans. expansion of the direct to consumer   In 2019, he was appointed ceo of Woolrich channel, focusing on e-commerce and omnichannel integration in particular. Saccone is already working with excellent skills, also on the digital on his next moves. At the moment, he prefront. The next official appointment at fers to remain behind the scenes, limiting Woolrich has been scheduled for the end himself to brief “meet & greet” sessions, of August, with the inauguration of a new although he has already summoned anoNew York store on Wooster Street, where ther strategic figure, Mathieu Garcia, his the label already has a store, but in a larger trusted manager with whom he has alrealocation. Looking ahead, the market will dy worked at Ralph Lauren. Saccone has be eyeing the event for forward-looking already appointed Garcia as marketing dipointers on its global expansion. ■ rector — the perfect figure for the label,


Q&A BY ELISABETTA FABBRI

LUNA ROSSA TEAM DIRECTOR AND SKIPPER

MAX SIRENA

«THE SAILING LOOK? FULL PERFORMANCE, ZERO COMPROMISE»

Il magazine di news, business e trend

Direttore Responsabile e Amministratore Delegato

Marc Sondermann (m.sondermann@fashionmagazine.it)

Max Sirena, the two-time winner of the America’s Cup, is currently testing the new Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli race boat. As its new team director, he’s currently gearing up for the first regatta of the America’s Cup World Series held in Cagliari, Sardinia, in 2020, as well as the Auckland challenge scheduled for 2021. During Pitti Uomo, the 48 year old yachtsman talked about the partnership between Luna Rossa and The Woolmark Company, which culminated in a series of wool garments. Natural, renewable and biodegradable, the garments will be worn by the Luna Rossa team during their offshore activities,training and competitions alike.

Have you always been an authority in materials or did you become one out of necessity? I really am obsessed with technical materials. I generally prefer natural and eco-sustainable fibers. The first result achieved with the Woolkmark collaboration, a merino wool polo we have been testing since September, proved to be a revelation. It is lightweight, breathable and anti-odour, even after several hours of operation under extreme conditions. Now we are developing waterproof garments, with a particular focus on lightweight and easy-dry qualities. This will continue for a year. Faced with a brand with green credentials, do you trust it or do you delve deeper? We don’t just settle for words, because we truly believe in sustainability: the sea is our office. Even our ship’s mould is 30% recycled

Redazione

Andrea Bigozzi (a.bigozzi@fashionmagazine.it) Elisabetta Fabbri (e.fabbri@fashionmagazine.it) Carla Mercurio (c.mercurio@fashionmagazine.it) Angela Tovazzi (a.tovazzi@fashionmagazine.it) Realizzazione grafica

Nadia Blasevich (n.blasevich@fashionmagazine.it) Carlo Maraschi (c.maraschi@fashionmagazine.it) English Language Editor

Sofia Celeste Fashion Editor

Alberto Corrado (a.corrado@fashionmagazine.it) Collaboratori

Elena Azzola, Mariella Barnaba, Cristiana Bonzi, Peppe Orrù (Londra), Giuliana Poletto (Parigi), Cristiana Lopez (New York) Pubblicità e promozione

Barbara Sertorini (b.sertorini@fashionmagazine.it) Laura Pianazza (l.pianazza@fashionmagazine.it) Senior Digital Advisor

Stefania Navaretti (s.navaretti@fashionmagazine.it)

What criteria do you use when choosing your look for competitions? We base it on performance. Design is important, but it undoubtedly comes second. As a yachtsman, are you often summoned as a technical clothing ‘consultant’? There has been an exchange of viewpoints for the last few years. In the case of Prada and Woolmark, things actually developed into active participation with research and development departments: they understood that there is zero compromise on deck.

Alessandra Bigotta (a.bigotta@fashionmagazine.it)

ph. Marco Bertani

How important is clothing during competitions? It’s more than just something you wear. It’s a veritable tool; it’s part of the puzzle. At the highest levels of competition nothing is taken for granted - even sunglasses can make all the difference. For us, technical clothing is a work tool. It must be comfortable, breathable and guarantee freedom of movement. Plus, we have a rule in sailing: each person’s full kit must weigh no more than 4.5 kilos.

Caposervizio

Special Projects

Matteo Ferrante Veneziani (m.veneziani@fashionmagazine.it) Assistente di direzione

Valentina Capra (v.capra@fashionmagazine.it) Amministrazione

Cristina Damiano (c.damiano@fashionmagazine.it)

carbon. We try to avoid the use of single-use PET objects as much as possible. For example, instead of plastic cups, we have flasks. In our base we use tap water, with various filters. We always strive to find out more when faced with brands which present themselves as sustainable. Sometimes we openly disapprove of those who exploit environmental issues for marketing purposes. Are you also involved in first person in the promotion of environmentally friendly behaviour? We have partnered with a few foundations. I am an ambassador of the One Ocean Foundation (an organisation whose mission is to protect the seas, editor’s note). We try to create projects that raise awareness: a form of civic education, to change any nonenvironmentally friendly behaviours. A future collaboration with National Geographic may also be in the cards. On land, after removing your sailing gear, do you enjoy thinking about what you wear? I’m a just a big fan of sneakers and I collect watches. ■

Edizioni Ecomarket Spa Redazione, Amministrazione, Pubblicità: piazza Pio XI 1, 20123 Milano telefono: 02 80620-1 telefax: 02 80620-444 (redazione) - 02 80620-333 (pubblicità e abbonamenti) Edizioni Ecomarket Spa Fashion - Il magazine di news, business e trend Registrazione presso il Tribunale di Milano n. 389 del 6-11-1970 Iscrizione n. 1418 al ROC Registro Operatori della Comunicazione È vietata la riproduzione anche parziale Articoli, disegni e fotografie, anche se non pubblicati, non verranno restituiti © Fashion 2019 Edizioni Ecomarket - Milano Abbonamento annuale 199,00 e (quindicinale) - c/c postale n. 16879207 È possibile richiedere gratuitamente la rettifica o la cancellazione scrivendo a: Edizioni Ecomarket Spa - servizio abbonamenti - piazza Pio XI 1 - 20123 Milano Numeri Arretrati: 16,00 e cad L’editore garantisce che i dati forniti dai sottoscrittori degli abbonamenti vengono utilizzati esclusivamente per l’invio della pubblicazione come quelli relativi agli invii in omaggio non vengono ceduti a terzi per alcun motivo. Garanzia di riservatezza per gli abbonati in ottemperanza al D. Lgs. n.196/2003 (tutela dati personali) Stampa: Vela Web Srl - Via Copernico 8 - 20082 Binasco (Mi) MDM Milano Distribuzione Media Srl Fashion fa parte del Gruppo DFV Verlagsgruppe Deutscher Fachverlag www.dfv.de Le altre testate moda del gruppo sono: TextilWirtschaft, Frankfurt; TextilJurnal, Praha; Sportswear International, Frankfurt; ÖTZ Österreichische Textil Zeitung, Wien; DivatMarketing, Budapest; Images Business of Fashion, New Delhi.

09_07_2019

127


EDIZIONI ECOMARKET S.P.A.

(sogg.alla direzione ed al coordinamento della soc. DFV Deutscher Fachverlag Gmbh - a socio unico)

EDIZIONI ECOMARKET S.P.A.

Sede Legale: Milano, Piazza Pio XI, 1 Capitale Sociale: Euro 400.000,00 interamente versato Iscritta al Registro Imprese di Milano al n.: 10074660159 ***

(sogg.alla direzione ed al coordinamento della soc. DFV Deutscher Fachverlag Gmbh - a socio unico)

Sede Legale: Milano, Piazza Pio XI, 1 Capitale Sociale: Euro 400.000,00 interamente versato Iscritta al Registro Imprese di Milano al n.: 10074660159 ***

BILANCIO D'ESERCIZIO AL 31 DICEMBRE 2018

forma Abbreviata ex art. 2435 bis del C.C.

A)

BILANCIO D'ESERCIZIO AL 31 DICEMBRE 2018

***

ATTIVO Crediti verso soci per versamenti ancora dovuti di cui parte già richiamata di cui parte ancora da richiamare

31/12/18 0

0 0

B)

IMMOBILIZZAZIONI

I

Immobilizzazioni immateriali Immobilizzazioni immateriali lorde fondo ammortamento immobilizzazioni immateriali fondo svalutazione immobilizzazioni immateriali Totale

II

Immobilizzazioni materiali Immobilizzazioni materiali lorde fondo ammortamento immobilizzazioni materiali fondo svalutazione immobilizzazioni materiali Totale

III

Immobilizzazioni finanziarie Totale TOTALE IMMOBILIZZAZIONI

C)

ATTIVO CIRCOLANTE

I

Rimanenze

II

Crediti che non costituiscono Immobilizzazioni esigibili entro l'esercizio successivo: esigibili oltre l'esercizio successivo:

III

Attività finanziarie che non costituiscono immobilizzazioni

IV

Disponibilità liquide

forma Abbreviata ex art. 2435 bis del C.C.

CONTO ECONOMICO

31/12/17 0

0 0

2.820.611 (2.741.898) 0 78.713

2.725.261 (2.721.072) 0 4.189

31.084 (23.312) 0 7.772

28.607 (17.877) 0 10.730

9.033 9.033

9.033 9.033

95.518

23.952

100

100

833.795 833.795

878.145 878.145

A)

3. 4. 5. B)

519.536

424.559

1.353.431

1.302.804

7. 8. 9.

10.

11.

RATEI E RISCONTI ATTIVI

I

Disaggio su prestiti

II

(sogg.alla direzione ed al coordinamento della soc. DFV Deutscher Fachverlag Gmbh - a socio unico)

Altri ratei e risconti attivi

Sede Legale: Milano, Piazza Pio XI, 1 Capitale Sociale: Euro 400.000,00 interamente versato TOTALE RATEI E RISCONTI ATTIVI Iscritta al Registro Imprese di Milano al n.: 10074660159 ***

TOTALE ATTIVO BILANCIO D'ESERCIZIO AL 31 DICEMBRE 2018

forma Abbreviata ex art. 2435 bis del C.C.

PASSIVO

0

0

8.203

14.893

8.203

14.893

1.457.152

1.341.649

31/12/18

15. 16.

17.

31/12/17

PATRIMONIO NETTO

I II III IV V VI VII VIII IX

Capitale Riserva da sovrapprezzo delle azioni Riserva di rivalutazione Riserva legale Riserve statutarie Riserva per azioni proprie in portafoglio Altre riserve Utili (perdite) portati a nuovo Utile (perdita) dell'esercizio

400.000 0 0 0 0 0 0 (74.545) 22.579

400.000 0 0 0 0 0 589.262 (675.781) 11.974

TOTALE PATRIMONIO NETTO

348.034

325.455

B)

FONDI PER RISCHI ED ONERI

0

0

C)

T.F.R.

753.284

707.027

D)

DEBITI

355.834

309.167

esigibili entro l'esercizio successivo

355.834

309.167

RATEI E RISCONTI PASSIVI

0

0

I II

Aggio su prestiti Altri Ratei e risconti passivi

0 0

0 0

1.457.152

1.341.649

24.000 0 24.000

24.000 0 24.000

CONTI D'ORDINE

Totale

***

2.039.572

0 0 0 50.756 2.140.675

0 0 0 51.306 2.090.878

70.200 683.500 118.311 1.188.932 854.661 247.276 79.867 0 7.128

74.138 704.201 95.438 1.164.222 825.552 248.436 82.928 0 7.306

20.826

2.807

5.435 0

9.629 0

6.893

5.819

0 0 0 21.480 2.115.577

0 0 0 25.807 2.082.061

25.098

8.817

D)

0 825

0

0

0 0 2.662

0 0 0 0

BILANCIO D'ESERCIZIO AL 31 DICEMBRE 2018

0

0

0 0 0 0

0 2.662

0

0

825

2.662

0

0

0

0

0

0

Rettifiche di valore di attività finanziarie 18.

19.

Rivalutazioni: a) di partecipazioni b) di immobilizzazioni finanziarie che non costituiscono immobilizzazioni c) di titoli iscritti nell'attivo circolante che non costituiscono immobilizzazioni Svalutazioni: a) di partecipazioni b) di immobilizzazioni finanziarie che non costituiscono immobilizzazioni c) di titoli iscritti nell'attivo circolante che non costituiscono immobilizzazioni Totale delle rettifiche (18-19)

0

0

0

0

0 0

0 0

RISULTATO PRIMA DELLE IMPOSTE (AB+-C+-D)

25.923

11.479

20.

Imposte sul reddito dell'esercizio correnti anticipate differite

(3.344) -3.344 0 0

495 0 0 495

21.

UTILE (PERDITA) DELL'ESERCIZIO

22.579

11.974

Il presidente del consiglio di amministrazione Sig. Klaus Kottmeier

PROSPETTO DI DETTAGLIO DELLE VOCI DEL BILANCIO DI ESERCIZIO AL 31.12.2018 pubblicato ai sensi dell'art. 9, della delibera 129/02/CONS dell'Autorità per le Garanzie nelle Comunicazioni denominata Informativa Economica di Settore RICAVI DELLE VENDITE E DELLE PRESTAZIONI

lavorazioni presso terzi agenzie di informazione

Il presidente del consiglio di amministrazione Sig. Klaus Kottmeier

09_07_2018

2.089.919

0 825

Totale (15+16-17+17bis) forma Abbreviata ex art. 2435 bis del C.C.

Ricavi della vendita di copie di cui per abbonamenti Ricavi della vendita di spazi pubblicitari di cui per la vendita tramite concessionarie di pubblicità

128

0

Milano, Piazza Pio XI, 1 UtileLegale: e perdite su cambi 17. Bis Sede Capitale Sociale: utile su cambiEuro 400.000,00 interamente versato Iscritta al Registro Imprese di Milano al n.: 10074660159 perdite su cambi

esigibili oltre l'esercizio successivo E)

fidejussioni Altri conti d'ordine

Proventi e oneri finanziari Proventi da partecipazioni Altri proventi finanziari: a) da crediti iscritti nelle immobilizzazioni b) da titoli iscritti nelle immobilizzazioni che non costituiscono partecipazioni c) da titoli iscritti nell'attivo circolante che non costituiscono partecipazioni d) proventi diversi dai precedenti Interessi e altri oneri finanziari: verso imprese controllate verso altri EDIZIONI ECOMARKET S.P.A.

(sogg.alla direzione ed al coordinamento della soc. DFV Deutscher Fachverlag Gmbh - a socio unico)

A)

TOTALE PASSIVO E NETTO

Per materie prime, sussidiarie, di consumo e di merci Per servizi Per godimento beni di terzi Per il personale: a) salari e stipendi b) oneri sociali c) trattamento di fine rapporto d) trattamento di quiescenza e simili e) altri costi Ammortamenti e svalutazioni: a) ammortamento delle immobilizzazioni immateriali b) ammortamento delle immobilizzazioni materiali c) altre svalutazioni delle immobilizzazioni d) svalutazioni dei crediti compresi nell' attivo circolante e delle disponibilità liquide Variazioni delle rimanenze di materie prime, sussidiarie, di consumo e merci Accantonamenti per rischi Altri accantonamenti Oneri diversi di gestione Totale Differenza tra valore e costi della produzione (A-B)

C)

D)

Ricavi delle vendite e delle prestazioni Variazioni delle rimanenze di prodotti in corso di lavorazione, semilavorati e finiti Variazioni dei lavori in corso su ordinazione Incrementi di immobilizzazioni per lavori interni Altri ricavi e proventi Totale Costi della produzione

6.

12. 13. 14.

TOTALE ATTIVO CIRCOLANTE

EDIZIONI ECOMARKET S.P.A.

Valore della produzione 1. 2.

COSTI PER SERVIZI

40.439 32.593 1.439.250 0

52.072 42.555 1.402.718 0

0 0

0 0


PEOPLE MANUEL AGNELLI

«SOCIAL MEDIA? I PREFER BIO-COMMUNICATION» «I have an inquiring mind and love experimentation. Why else would I be going into television at 50 years of age? The important thing is not to leave everything down to chance.” Musician, founder and frontman of the Afterhours group, record producer, TV presenter and former judge of Italian X-Factor, Manuel Agnelli expresses his artistic flair in different fields, excelling at all of them. The secret? "Steer clear of clichés.” That applies to social media and style, as well

Manuel Agnelli in an outfit by Emporio Armani, the label he chose for the last two editions of Italian X-Factor

BY CARLA MERCURIO

How have you built your image over these years? A look for me is simply another type of language, an accompaniment to music. Or even an extension of it. It's a creative and fun way of representing yourself. It becomes a cliché if you add predictable ingredients. The emblem of my viewpoint is David Bowie, who always collaborated with stylists and great creators, successfully forging a direction. You have also been involved in important collaborations with Emporio Armani, which you wore for the last two editions of X-Factor. How did this collaboration come about? They contacted me with a stimulating and beautiful project and proposed a collection inspired by the 20s/30s, a period I am particularly fond of, from an aesthetic point of view. I appreciated the dandypunk image which they suggested, not to mention the completeness of the project in operative terms. They didn't simply hand me some clothes, they worked on me, even re-adapting their items, tailoring them to my persona. Was it the first time you had ever worn Armani clothes? This brand has always been a synonym of elegance for me and my stylist and partner, Francesca Risi. Many see it as a highly classical brand, but I find that it has quite an extreme creative part to it. Are there other designer labels you appreciate? I like Vivienne Westwood, which I wore

for the first edition of the program. Her brand is very close to my personality, as it is linked to the punk world. I also like Etro. A recent photo of you with your hair up and a beard garnered many likes. Is this the start of a new era? The media resonance of that photo taken with my friends really surprised me! In any case I have decided to keep the beard for a while. But whether I look better or worse with a certain hairstyle or outfit is certainly not something that keeps me up at night. On the contrary, sometimes being worse off, actually helps you to express your personality. I still stand with long hair, because I find it suits all kinds of looks. In a certain sense it makes me look a bad boy, so it is perfect also with more classical looks. Speaking of social media, you don't have your own personal account on Instagram... We have accounts with Afterhours for our activities, but I deliberately chose not to have my personal one. I believe in bio- communication, based on physical meetings, because this is what we all crave. It is no coincidence that millenials are experiencing a rediscovery of concerts. I'm not against online communication, but I am against having to be necessarily on social media, a place where you forge contrived contacts, because of the need to be concise. This has led people to embrace imperative tones, and I'm not a fan of this. Was it this very need for physicality that led you to open the new up-to-date music club"Germi" in Milan? Without a doubt. "Germi" is part of my plans

to exploit visibility acquired on TV and to help me do the things I have always wanted to. It is a library with a music and literature section in which we express our point of view on seeds of western culture, which can contaminate in terms of ideas. It is also a place where we organise music and theatre events and exhibitions. It’s a small place where you can meet, which is not a slave to numbers. What will you be doing next, now that you have announced you are leaving X-Factor? I've had three years on the go with X-Factor, the programme Ossigeno on Rai3, tours with Afterhours and two albums. I needed to slow down. I'll only be doing two dates with the band, Bologna on July 18th and Taranto on August 19th. I also want to write some new stuff, music undoubtedly, but perhaps something else too. Sometimes you feel the need for moments of true life. What are the important battles we need to fight in this day and age? We need to renew our sense of responsibility. In Italy, people are no longer voting. There is also a need to culturally rebuild our country, which has literally been ransacked over the last 30 years. ■

09_07_2019

129


RED CARPET BY CARLA MERCURIO

PITTI BIMBO 89

PARTIES, PRIZES AND CATWALK SHOWS: THE MOVEABLE FEAST OF KIDSWEAR Business as usual at Pitti Bimbo but there was much more, starting from the party of Emporio Armani Junior at the Sala della Scherma, to celebrate the presence of the brand at the fair. Not only research collections in the brand new The Kid’s Lab area, but also events: among them, the photo exhibition “Muccia: The New School Of Tomorrow”, dedicated to the reconstruction of the school of this village in the Marche region, damaged by the earthquake, supported by Chopard Italia and Andrea Bocelli Foundation. In the spotlight at The Kid’s Lab also the iconic retailer Pupi Solari, awarded with the Career Prize. To be mentioned, outside the Fortress, happenings in wonderful locations: Il Gufo at Serre Torrigiani, Monnalisa at Giardino Torrigiani and The Pitti Party at Villa Le Corti.

A. Chiavelli, E. Feltracco, G. Chiavelli, G. Miletti in the final of Il Gufo show

Cocktail party in via Orsini with Kiddin’ Shop and Gughi

Pupi Solari, Agostino Poletto, Giuliana Parabiago

To toast the success of French high fashion, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode organized an evening at Georges Restaurant, on the sixth floor of the Centre Pompidou, on 30th June. The event was attended by the most prestigious fashion houses, couturiers, artistic directors and managers, together with VIPs and influencers. The evening was punctuated by the sound of Get A Room! (Jeff Lasson). Pascal Morand, head of the federation, toasted with Maria Grazia Chiuri, Hamish Bowles and Sidney Toledano, to name a few.

09_07_2019

Photos of the Muccia school and its little students

CHIURI CELEBRATED IN PARIS

HAUTE COUTURE CELEBRATES WITH VIPS AND FASHION HOUSES

130

Alessandra Ambrosio at the Monnalisa show

LEGION OF HONOR

AT THE CENTRE POMPIDOU

Guillaume de Seynes, Sidney Toledano, Séverine Merle and Pascal Morand

The Pitti Special Click Party, held at Villa Le Corti in San Casciano Val di Pesa with a performance of the little athletes of synchronized swimming

Anna Cleveland among the guests

A shot of the event at the Georges Restaurant

Olivia Palermo and Johannes Huebl

The French state has recognised and rewarded the creativity of an Italian designer. During a ceremony at the Élysée Palace, during the days of Haute Couture, Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Christian Dior, was awarded the title of “Knight of the Legion of Honor”.

An outfit on the Christian Dior Haute Couture fashion show

Marlène Schiappa, the Secretary of Equality between men and women, presented Maria Grazia Chiuri with the French Legion of Honor (Chevalier)


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