Anno 51 | N°5 del 20.03. 2020 | quindicinale | € 8,00 | www.fashionmagazine.it
Poste Italiane S.P.A. – Spedizione in abbonamento postale – D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 N.46) Art. 1, Comma 1 Lom/Mi/1769
Il magazine di news, business e trend
FULLY ENGLISH INTERNATIONAL EDITION
MESSAGE IN A
BOTTLE Cover: Moncler
ON THE COVER Moncler Autumn- Winter 2020/2021 Photo: Imaxtree
4 THÉLIOS/GIOVANNI ZOPPAS
“TURNOVER IS UP 40%, AS WE PREPARE FOR DIOR”
6 POMELLATO/SABINA BELLI
MOVING UP IN A MAN’S WORLD
8 MANILA GRACE/MAURIZIO SETTI AND ENRICO VANZO
“WE HAVE INVESTED IN ACCESSORIES AND HAVE LOTS OF PLANS FOR RETAIL”
10 LIVE-STREAMING AND VIRTUAL SHOWROOMS
THE NEW FASHION CHALLENGE
12 BUYERS @ MILAN FASHION WEEK
POWERFUL (AND REAL) WOMEN ON CATWALKS
22 WHITE MILANO
SUSTAINABILITY FINDS A HOME
26 BUYERS @ PARIS FASHION WEEK
SAINT LAURENT AND BALENCIAGA TAKE CENTRE STAGE
28 GENERATIONAL SHIFT
PRADA’S NEW EXPERIMENT PAVES THE WAY
TIME FOR DIGITAL FIRST A
s I write, Italy has been cordoned off. The Northern border has been sealed, highways are empty, hardly any plane takes off anymore, and a ghastly silence reigns in our streets and squares. Restaurants, bars and shops are closed, schools and universities have been shut down, while hospitals are overcrowded and new ones are being set up, hopefully with record speed. As a sad recurrence, every day at 6pm health authorities report the newest numbers. Currently we stand at 2.100 new infections and, unspeakably, 250 casualties per day. The economy has grinded to a halt and the government is handing out emergency cash and tax breaks. Across all industries, the future holds only one scenario: the survival of the fittest. Retailers have seen their turnover dwindle to single-digit rivulets before being closed down altogether. With regards to fashion, for many the consequences are dire. Whoever relied strongly on physical stores is facing an existential threat. Extreme global turbulence will place our exporters, who roughly account for 79% of the industry’s €90bn in revenues, in a difficult spot. It is hard to predict where and when demand will be returning. In a striking and cruel analogy to the medical world, financial institutions will have to choose which enterprises to support with the oxygen of the business world, meaning cash aka credit, and who to abandon. One thing, however, has become strikingly clear. Old-fashioned business models with no significant competence on the digital side will be among the hardest hit. Fresh names, with a virtual following, solid backing and a bold strategy, will rise to the forefront. It will be up to them to revitalize our proud, and unbroken, banner of unlimited passion.
WAYS THROUGH THE CERTIFICATION MAZE
40 MICAM AND MIPEL
CONFRONTING CRISIS WITH CREATIVITY AND KNOW-HOW
45 FALL-WINTER 2020-2021/ALL THE UPCOMING TRENDS
Marc Sondermann CEO & Editor-in-Chief
A NEW DREAM OF ELEGANCE
65 PORTRAIT/JERRY LORENZO
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER WHO CONQUERED ZEGNA 3
THÉLIOS GIOVANNI ZOPPAS
“TURNOVER IS UP 40%, AS WE PREPARE FOR DIOR” Giovanni Zoppas, CEO of Thélios, the joint venture between LVMH and the Marcolin group explains that the turning point for sales will be with the arrival of the Dior brand from Safilo. “We are seeing important result through our brand portfolio. Celine in particular, for now, is our flagship brand and has proved to be key in preparing for Dior” BY ANDREA BIGOZZI
oint venture, startup, Goliath. There are potentially many ways to define Thélios, a new Italian production site dedicated to eyewear launched by a LVMH joint venture with Marcolin. “Actually, I hope we never lose the startup spirit, because the goal of our project is not to do business as usual. We’ve created something that wasn’t there before and we’re developing our system.” This is how Giovanni Zoppas sums up the past few years spent at the helm of the company LVMH controls with a 51% stake and which the Italian eyewear manufacturer controlled by Pai Partners fund, Marcolin, owns 49%. The manager said the factory built in Longarone, situated in the province of Belluno and in the center of the eyewear producing heartland, is poised to become a key player in the eyewear industry, and will soon have a production capacity of five million frames. “And we won’t stop there,” Zoppas declared,
explaining that a major turning point on the business front is expected with the arrival of Dior on January 1, 2021. LVMH-owned brands Fendi and Givenchy, which are now produced elsewhere, are expected to join Thélios’ brand portfolio in the near-term, though Zoppas was careful not to confirm the possibility. “When and if the time comes we will talk about it,” he said, opting to focus on Thélios’ current activities. Speaking of what Thélios has achieved so far… We’re seeing important results with all our brands: Celine, Loewe, Berluti, Kenzo and Fendi. Just think that in 2019 total sales increased by 40%. Celine in particular is our flagship brand and has proved to be key in preparing for Dior. Is everything ready for the launch? Given that shipments will start on January 1, 2021 (with the expiration of the Safilo license) and that our business model in-
cludes full control of the supply chain from design, prototyping, to industrialization and production, it is obvious that the machine has been set into motion. For a project like this, you have to start working 12-15 months before the market launch. This is a long time, which takes into account the fact that we are working from scratch, and it’s always complex to develop something from zero. It requires a greater effort for the next brand launches, because between one collection and another the level of newness is about 50%. The expansion of the Longarone factory continues: is production still your priority? In terms of production, the results we have achieved have been excellent. The degree of defectiveness of our pieces is absolutely negligible, far below the market average of 5%. The issue of production capacity was inevitably central in the first phase of Thelios, but now our focus has shifted to distribution.
THE PRODUCTION CAPACITY WILL BE 5 MILLION PAIRS OF GLASSES A YEAR
1. Giovanni Zoppas was appointed CEO of Thélios, the LVMH-Marcolin 3 jv, in 2017 2. A Celine pair of glasses from the fall-winter 2020/21 collection 3. The Berluti eyewear collection 4. The Thélios production 4 site at Longarone, in Northern Italy’s eyewear district 5/6. All eyewear operations take place at the factory
IN FOUR YEARS THE WORKFORCE QUADRUPLED >730* WORLDWIDE EVOLUTION OF THE NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES
*Expected Source: Thélios - Processed by Fashion
What objectives have you set in this specific area? Very simply, we aim to be outstanding. The maisons we work with deserve to be adequately represented. On average only 15% of our total sales are generated from mono brand stores, but business generated by this type of accessory from other channels is about 85%, such as specialized chains and optical stores. Our goal is to distinguish ourselves within these types of sales points. We are already doing this, but with Dior it will be even more evident. We will not be content with merely being present in the best stores: we also aim to garner adequate visibility via visual merchandising, pop-ups, shop windows, etc.. Being a part of the LVMH world demands quality and we will be very selective about distribution as well. This selectivity has led us to reduce the number of doors, but it was a wellthought out choice.
Louis Vuitton is one of the few brands that does not distribute their eyewear outside their own single-brand stores. Will the arrival of Thélios lead to a change of strategy? It’s true, Louis Vuitton has always decided to be on the market only with sunglasses, sold exclusively in their boutiques. No licensees, no distributors. It’s a very clear path that won’t change. It is already a great opportunity for us to oversee an important area of production. Since our inception, we can honestly say that we are one of their most important suppliers. LVMH’s new challenge is called Fenty, the brand made with Rihanna. It is also a challenge for Thélios... We are also involved in this project, albeit in a different way than other brands. For Fenty are involved with design, prototyping and production, but then the distribution eventually passes to the brand. ■
POMELLATO SABINA BELLI
MOVING UP IN A MAN’S WORLD
A preview of the Denim Lapislazzuli collection: it is 100% sustainable and will be launched in occasion of Earth Day on April 22nd
Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli reflects on rising up the executive ladder, balancing relationships and how to nurture fresh talent SABINA BELLI, POMELLATO CEO
BY SOFIA CELESTE
ld habits die hard in a country like Italy, where the majority of its industry is dominated by men. Luxury veteran Sabina Belli, Pomellato’s chief executive officer, is a testament to changing times and a rising champion of gender equality in the workforce here. Her recent book D Come Donna, C Come CEO (W is for Women and C is for CEO) is a reference point for female stars in the fashion arena. She chatted with Fashion about how women can navigate family, relationships and business. As a CEO of a jewelry brand, what advice would you give to professionals who aspire to a top management position in a man’s world? Create a vision to inspire you and move you forward, believe in yourself as you undertake new challenges, stay positive and learn from your mistakes, never lose sight of your vision! As leaders we need to pursue a higher purpose, and optimism is one important characteristic of leadership. ‘Leaders are providers of hope’, this motto has always spurred me on. How have you created a balance between your private life and your work life, as you worked your way to the top? I have invested my energy and passion in both my career and my family (I have three wonderful daughters and a gorgeous granddaughter). I have never been scared to delegate and employ help. It is important to surround yourself with great people along the way. At Pomellato, about 74 percent of the employees are women. What are the challenges to creating a female-dominated workforce in a country like Italy? Gender should not be a problem at work and beyond. There is still a lot to do in terms of the gender gap: Italy ranks ninth in the list of countries that have the biggest pay between men and women. There is a mindset and the pressure Italian women put on themselves regarding the way they think they are supposed to parent and how that can impact their professional choices. We need to work on breaking cliches and help women free themselves from guilt trips. What do you think about the current situation here in terms of equal opportunity? My origins are Italian but I moved to Paris when I was a child and French life became my culture and my roots. My husband has helped me a lot. In fact, in France, it is much easier to grow professionally than in Italy,
perhaps because they are more ahead in the representation of women in society, for example. However, in general there is still a lot to achieve…the fact that still today only 5% of CEOs in the world are women reflects the enormous disparity between men and women that still does exist in the work force. Have you ever had an experience in your career in which you have been disrespected by a man in power? Could you share one? The boardrooms have been difficult at times, especially as I often found myself as the only woman in a male dominated environment. I haven’t been disrespected in any major ways; I have at times had to work harder and raise my voice stronger to be heard. In celebration of International Women’s Day, in recent years you tapped women like Jane Fonda, Chiara Ferragni and now Cate Blanchett... What do all of these women have in common? Our PomellatoForWomen campaign unites a community of like-minded women from different walks of life, meant to both inspire others and highlight the importance of female leadership and inclusivity. One of my challenges is to open a channel of awareness and to talk about women’s issues through women’s voices so that we can all inspire each other and help achieve our dreams. Our jewels are created with these women in minds. Whether they are Hollywood artists, fashion headliners, diversity activists or everyday heroes all our women act as bearers of important values Pomellato stands for: together we listen, empower, and promote inclusiveness. Can you tell us more about the Denim Lapis Collection and the use of 100 percent responsible gold? What does “100 responsible” mean to Pomellato exactly? Sustainability is mandatory if we want to preserve our Planet. This is a crucial time to be doing what we can for the Earth. We are proud do our part for a better future, by working in a more sustainable way and by providing sustainable jewelry pieces.The Denim Lapis Collection will be launched in occasion of Earth Day on April 22nd, and it is a sustainable collection. It will be a made to order collection and available only on our website. Pomellato is proud to have achieved 100% Responsible Gold purchasing in 2018, a first for a global jewelry brand. With this milestone, the brand reinforces its commitment to sustainability, and to reducing its environmental impact by sourcing gold that is responsible and traceable. ■
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MANILA GRACE MAURIZIO SETTI AND ENRICO VANZO
“WE HAVE INVESTED IN ACCESSORIES AND HAVE LOTS OF PLANS FOR RETAIL”
LAUNCH OF FRANCHISING PROJECT IS THE GOAL FOR 2021
Although the roadmap is susceptible to adjustments because of coronavirus, with its turnover of about 43 million euros and a positive EBITDA in 2019 Antress Industry has the foundations in place for a new phase of growth, thanks to the launch of a collection of shoes and bags and other projects
BY ANGELA TOVAZZI
t is impossible not to start with Covid-19: as we interviewed Maurizio Setti and Enrico Vanzo, respectively founder and president of Antress Industry and new CEO of Manila Grace brand, the epidemic broke out in Italy, forcing companies to review procedures, organization, timing and objectives. “The numbers speak for themselves, and it is a destabilizing shock for people and the economy, which will have long-term repercussions,” said Antress owner Maurizio Setti. Along with other Italian manufacturers, the epidemic means Antress (based in Carpi, near Modena) will have to put on the brakes. Its flagship brand Manila Grace has important plans in the pipeline, both for the domestic and international markets. It laid the foundations in 2019 for growth: “We ended the year with a turnover of about 43 million euros and a positive EBITDA,” underlined Setti. “Thanks to the success of our Felicia Bag we launched a collection of shoes and bags, with 13 families of leather goods and a line of sneakers and formal shoes that we have just presented at the Milan Micam show.” This diversification is consistent with the womenswear brand’s positioning, which aims to “target both younger women with a fashionable look, but also more mature and independent consumers, looking 8
1. Maurizio Setti, founder and president of Antress Industry 2. Manila Grace style for the Fall-Winter 2020/2021 3. Enrico Vanzo, CEO of Manila Grace 4/5. Bags and shoes, new product categories presented at the latest Micam
for sophisticated garments with character, that make them feel good,” he said. Faced with the spread of the epidemic, the business plan could require revisions and adjustments. Manila Grace has concentrated its energies in the retail sector, a channel that represents 20-25% of turnover thanks to 16 fully-owned stores, mostly in Italy. “Our goal in 2020 is to improve management processes within the stores,” said CEO Enrico Vanzo. “At the same time, we will aim for an alliance with the main European department stores, through corners and dedicated spaces. Subsequently we will organize a complete and structured franchising project at the beginning of 2021, which will allow the company to develop part of its growth through this channel.” The target is both the domestic market, which accounts for 75% of turnover, and the international market, where best
performers are Spain and Russia. New openings are scheduled for Russia, giving a boost to the new shoe and bag collections. Expansion in Russia however will not come at the expense of commercial horizons “in Central Eastern Europe, the Arab Emirates and, later, China and the USA”, adds the manager. E-commerce deserves a separate mention. “It is playing an increasingly important role, with revenues rising from 900,000 euro to 1.2 million euro in 2019, also helped by the new line of accessories,” said Vanzo. Bags are the best seller category on the website, which has just started with an omnichannel project. “Our focus is to reach customers wherever they are, and help them have a perfect shopping experience, breaking down the barriers that physical stores used to have and making the online experience more and more personalized.” ■
GUESS L2 Fashion Ita n.5 16 Mar.indd 1
REMOTE BUT STILL EXCITING: THE NEW FASHION CHALLENGE Thanks to advanced multimedia solutions, brands are experimenting with new formats to present and sell collections remotely. Solutions that allow them to reach an ever-wider audience, which turn out to be a big advantage during a health emergency and in times of increased environmental awareness. But fashion is tied to feeling, and distance doesn’t help BY CARLA MERCURIO
he coronavirus emergency has accelerated the existing trend for fashion brands to offer new presentation formats that are increasingly multimedia and virtual. These formats make it possible to reach and engage a considerably wider audience and, at the same time, deal with new concerns linked to sustainability by reducing the impact of travel on Co2 emissions. The potential is enormous and this type of communication can be very effective. The China we are with you event organized by the Camera della Moda during the Milan womenswear collections allowed Chinese buyers, journalists and consumers to watch shows and specially tailored content, streamed on the Chamber’s platform and on Tencent and Weibo. Sixteen million users watched the catwalk shows on Tencent, and another 9 million on Weibo. This was a godsend for a Fashion Week where 1,000 buyers, journalists and influencers stayed at home. China we are with you was only the tip of the iceberg. Brands ran their own digital programs designed to engage buyers, the press and the final audience, including enhanced livestreaming, new initiatives on social networks and on new platforms. In the meantime,
the showrooms either launched or extended their own virtual sales experiences to stem the defections of buyers. Fashion and the web seem to be made for one another. The numbers tell the story. The latest edition of Milan Fashion Week was perhaps a point of no return: Launchmetrics’ Media Impact Value - an algorithm that gives brands the monetary value of all posts, interactions or articles across channels and markets - rose to $142.4 million from $123.7 million last September, with Gucci, Versace, Prada, Fendi and Giorgio Armani among the top five brands. With 1.11 million messages generated and a global engagement of 88.5 million interactions, Milan Fashion Week was center stage on social networks and on the web, according to Blogmeter’s Fashion Index. “One of the novelties of this last round of shows was that TikTok got involved,” said Irene Ferrario, Blogmeter Marketing Director. “Some brands, like Gucci and Moncler, have included it as a touch point in their content strategy. Others have created targeted campaigns: Prada, for example, invited American TikToker Charli D’Amelio at its fashion show. Thanks to a fan base of 30.7 million followers on TikTok and 8.2 million on Instagram, this move contributed to in-
LIVE-STREAMING AND VIRTUAL SHOWROOMS
Giorgio Armani held his catwalk show behind closed doors because of the coronavirus outbreak, relying on live streaming
creasing the Milanese maison’s fan base.” It will be interesting to see how the other brands will exploit this channel during the next round of fashion shows. Among the most talked-about events of this latest fashion week was the decision by Giorgio Armani and Laura Biagiotti to hold their catwalk shows behind closed doors because of the coronavirus outbreak, relying on live streaming. “The results definitely exceeded expectations,” said a spokesperson from Armani’s press office. Live streaming is an increasingly strategic visibility vehicle, as long as it is integrated into a well-designed approach, according to Gucci: “At the last fashion week, our live-streamed show was available both on the brand’s proprietary platforms, the site and app, as well as on other channels such as Instagram, Youtube, Twitter and Weibo. On Weibo alone, the event received over 20 million views.” The imperative for the brand was “digital first”: all the assets created for the fashion show, starting from the invitation (a voice message from Alessandro Michele) were based on these guidelines. Another must for the “double G” brand was digital amplification: “We worked with influencers including Gogoboi, Teacher Xu, FashionModels, Chrison
med our kids into videomakers,” said Matteo Falcone, the showroom manager. “With Chinese buyers, the preferred communication channel is WeChat, which contains content, payment methods, social interactions, e-commerce experiences and so on in a single environment.” Massimo Bonini, owner of the eponymous Milanese showroom with an outpost in New York, has also equipped himself for long-distance selling: “We prepare videos with models and detailed line sheets, which we send by Dropbox to our customers. An approach that will be increasingly strategic, and not only in times of emergency. In the United States, for example, no customer actually orders in showrooms. The buyer comes to THE NUMBER OF MESSAGES AND TOTAL ENGAGEMENT visit us, looks at the collection and then RECORDED DURING MILAN FASHION WEEK: INSTAGRAM AND TWITTER RANKED AMONG has videos and line sheets sent over to be THE MOST USED PLATFORMS viewed at leisure. This trend is going to catch on in Milan.” Francesco Casile of Mi64,09% 91,89% lan’s Casile & Casile showroom did Instagram everything he could to help customers TOTAL TOTAL Twitter MESSAGES ENGAGEMENT physically go to the showroom during 5,71 % Facebook 1.106 M 87.839 M Fashion Week. But it also got organized for 3% YouTube 5,71% 3,57% Blog those who couldn’t: “We News day and night in LIVE-STREAMING worked 28,67% Forum order to get ready to Pinterest NEW CHANNELS work remotely, and reSOCIAL MEDIA ceived 28 orders (some Source: Blogmeter Fashion Index VIRTUAL of which were important) from customers who did SHOWROOMS: not come to Milan.” The of the individual products FASHION and Dipsy, to create exclusive content aimed baton now passes over and making orders,” a IS INCREASINGLY at the Chinese public.” The staff at Moncler to trade fairs: forced to company spokesperson said it was strategic to focus on content, ONLINE, AND postpone their dates, explained. Salvatore Ferespecially after the brand was forced to canthey will have to adapt to ragamo entrusted the de- ENGAGEMENT cel the publc vesion of its Genius event. This the multimedia trend. velopment of a virtual SURGES decision led Moncler to take a second look at Pitti Immagine led the showroom to Hyphen. “The all its programming across social networks, way, when nine years ago it lauched a digisystem generates pre-orders, which are enriching it with further ideas, in in order to tal platform called e-pitti.com offering for then finalized on the brand’s customer mahighlight the mega-installations designed Pitti Uomo, Pitti Bimbo and Pitti Filati, nagement platform,” said Stefano Righetti, for the occasion. While for PR and digital capable of putting exhibitor and retailer diHyphen founder and CEO. “A very open solustrategists the challenge is to make a strearectly in contact. CEO Raffaello Napoleotion: all the features are also available on an med version of a catwalk show as exciting as ne says the format has evolved: “The onliAPI standard, which allows other developers it is in real life, in the showroom it’s all about ne event used to start after the physical to integrate easily.” But it doesn’t end there. effective tools for long-distance selling. event closed. But now thanks to techno“Companies in the U.S. and Switzerland are Among the innovators in this field, Gucci logy, about 60% of our exhibitors present working with important backers to find a stands out once again. It has enabled a digicollections on this channel days ahead of way for viewers to experience tactile sensatal showroom experience that could be used the event.” While virtual solutions multitions digitally. These models in the future by all buyers and customers usually present ply, one thing always remains the same: could be easily integrated into our platform.” in person, letting them access 360-degree fashion, especially on the luxury end, The multi-brand showrooms have also gone views of the collection, zoom in on details must always appeal to the emotions. This digital: starting from Pre-fall, the Riccardo and purchase the desired items all with the calls for people to be present in person. Grassi showroom has devised sales support same tool. Speaking of virtual spaces, Hugo “We make orders remotely,” said Federisystems for the team via WhatsApp, WeBoss also makes use of a digital option for co Giglio of the Giglio boutiques in PalerChat, e-mail and Dropbox, suggesting imathe sale of the Hugo line (and soon also for mo. “This time there are no big problems, ges and videos targeted for buyer’s retail the Boss label) which allows the brand to inbecause 90% of the work had already customers. “We have solutions equipped teract with its wholesale partners: “An alterbeen done. But it is impossible to imagine with musical backgrounds to recreate the native to traditional orders which embraces experiencing the fashion we sell without showroom atmosphere, which show details, all aspects of the collection, starting from savoring it in person.” ■ processes and fabrics. They have transforthe inspiration right through to the selection
Ph. Courtesy Fendi
BUYERS @ MILAN FASHION WEEK
POWERFUL (AND REAL) WOMEN ON CATWALKS According to retailers, an overall sense of luxe sophistication emerged from the Italian catwalks, which were dominated by masculine/feminine balance, revisited tailoring, neutral colors and black leather and frindge. Fendi, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander charmed with their collections, giving the right attention to design and craftsmanship BY ANDREA BIGOZZI
his February, designers pulled off another convincing fashion week. Many collections impressed and in some cases, they even made us think. Will the enthusiasm endure when the clothes arrive in stores in six months time? As worried as they are, buyers are looking ahead, steadfast in confirming their budgets for the Fall-Winter 2020/21 season. Convinced that by the time the latest collections hit the racks, the coronavirus will be merely just a bad memory. â€œIn spite of everything, I am optimistic, because what you buy today will go to stores in September-October and by then, it should be all over. In my opinion, those who have reduced budgets this season will have opposi-
DANIEL LEE Since his appointment in 2019 Daniel Lee has been the driving force behind Bottega Veneta’s newfound popularity. According to fashion research engine Lyst, purchase searches for the brand surged 53% last year. This winning streak is likely to continue, if the latest Fall Winter 2020/21 collection is any indication. Buyers expect several items will emerge as next year’s best sellers.
GUCCI CAPTURED ATTENTION WITH ITS EXPERIENTIAL FASHION SHOW RATHER THAN WITH CLOTHES
BROWNS - UK HEAD OF WOMENSWEAR
“The highlights of this fashion week were Jil Sander and Gucci for a show of pure theater offered by the ‘behind the scenes’ preparations which included dramatic make-up and wigs on models who were mounted on a huge rotating stage. Prada and Jil Sander were the most beautiful collections in my opinion, together with Bottega Veneta, which was the most hotly awaited brand for accessories and it did not disappoint. Western style thigh-high boots are at the top of my wish list. In terms of new names, Act n°1 stands out: since Spring-Summer 2020 it has entered into the Browns offering. Among the trends that will prevail most, I am willing to bet that grey will be “the new black” as demonstrated by certain looks by Prada and Fendi, where fringes will also emerge as protagonists on accessories (Bottega Veneta) and ready to wear (Prada).”
te problems: the impact of the coronavirus will be on production, rather than on consumption. This is why our budgets continue to grow,” said Riccardo Tortato, e-commerce Fashion Director and Men’s Fashion Director of Tsum. In the hope that the health emergency caused by the coronavirus will abate soon and the economic worries will ease, trends were worth noting at Milan fashion week. It opened with the Gucci fashion show trasformed into a Fellini-esque circus. Amid crisis, Alessandro Michele in true spectacular form did not disappoint. He dismantled the traditional catwalk and pushed it to the extreme, turning it into a carousel where, rather than walk, models were assembled along-side the
behind-the-scenes troupe: make-up artists, hairdressers, stylists. A show, that for many, pushed the clothes into the backdrop. “Maximum respect for Alessandro Michele and for what he showed us with his latest show. He is a visionary, a true artist, even before becoming a designer,” said Linda Fargo, Senior Vice President of Women’s Fashion Bergdorf Goodman. Other buyers agreed. “Everything was engaging and innovative starting from the invitation via Whatsapp,” commented Roopal Patel of Saks Fifth Avenue. Heather Gramston of Browns said that the Gucci catwalk was “pure theater.” Few, on the other hand, had much to say on the actual readyto-wear, perhaps because Gucci collections have
This fashion week had several arrows in its bow, because it presented a simply real fashion. Beautiful jackets, clothes designed to be worn on any occasion with neutral colors, also perfect for any occasion. This is why the shows I liked the most are those that have best interpreted this desire for normality and elegance: Prada and Jil Sander. Linda Fargo
BERGDORF GOODMAN USA SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT WOMEN’S FASHION
BUYERS @ MILAN FASHION WEEK
THE WEBSTER - USA WOMEN’S BUYING DIRECTOR “This FW20 fashion week edition was exciting, confirming big house brilliance, with beautiful shows from Bottega Veneta, Fendi and Salvatore Ferragamo, as well as new collaborations and recent announcements that shook the industry: Pucci X Koche, JW Anderson as the latest talent joining the Moncler Genius journey and Raf Simons appointed as Prada Co-Creative Director! I also loved the Gucci show innovative format. The collections that I loved the most were Jil Sander for ready-to-wear, Bottega Veneta for accessories: its wooden clutches and chelsea boots are candidates for best sellers of the season, together with gadget belts from Fendi. As for trends most invogue…definitely fringe.”
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE - USA SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT AND FASHION DIRECTOR “There were a lot of stellar ready-to-wear collections in Milan. Among my favorites were Bottega Veneta’s fringe shearling coats, knits and chic sequin gowns, Prada’s staple car wash pleats, structured tailoring and embroidery and Fendi’s mix of leather and lace with statement coats and fringe on evening wear. Some other favorites included Brunello Cucinelli and Agnona. Daniel Lee continued to dazzle us this season with accessories at Bottega Veneta, including his new take on the pouch with fringe and leaning into the house’s signature design; intrecciato. Carolina Castiglioni has been under the radar, as she develops her Plan C label. After viewing the collection, she has a clear direction and it was exciting to see her take on masculine and feminine.”
been more or less the same since 2015. Michele will telli, Head of Fashion at Rinascente. In the same be remembered for the universes he has created and vein, Silvano Vangi, Creative Director & Head buyer to which the clothes refer, as well as the connections Luxury Women’s Wear LuisaViaRoma, said Moncler that the creative director of the Kering flagship brand Genius is ever more “engaging and innovative.” Fobuilds around them that render them interesting reign buyers like Jeffrey Kalinsky of Nordstrom, and commercially successful. Another stellar show, Erica Russo of Bloomingdale’s and Elizabeth von to say the least, was the one set up by Moncler for der Goltz of Net-a-porter remarked that Moncler, the Genius project, which for the 2020 edition added which was staged at a former slaughterhouse near Jonathan Anderson (instead of PierpaLinate Airport, was simply fabulous olo Piccioli) to the team. Innovative in memorable, both in terms of its ITALIAN NEW and its image and commercial methods, message and the capsule collections TALENTS say buyers, it represents the best colunfurled by various designer which SUCH PLAN C, included JW Anderson and Craig laborative formula right now in the fashion system. This time it included CALCATERRA, Green. Elsewhere, more conventioRick Owens, who presented a capsunal catwalks perpetuated and exalACT N° 1, DI le collection officially independent of ted the sort of fashion that Milan has MORABITO the project. “From season to season traditionally produced - the type of CAPTURED this project surpasses itself, in terms daywear that has this city famous all BUYERS’ of production of the show and choice over the world. Clear, compact, conATTENTION of the designers,” said Federica Montemporary, desirable collections 14
Despite the absence of Karl Lagerfeld, the Fendi collection presented at this fashion week was the most beautiful in 10 years. New materials, shapes and new atmosphere… for all of this, it was my favorite collection together with Bottega Veneta. Riccardo Tortato
TSUM - RUSSIA FASHION DIRECTOR E-COMMERCE MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR
SHOP AT FRACOMINA.IT
BUYERS @ MILAN FASHION WEEK
MYTHERESA-GERMANY FASHION BUYING DIRECTOR
LUISAVIAROMA - ITALY CREATIVE DIRECTOR & HEAD BUYER LUXURY WOMEN’S WEAR “The fashion week was a little subdued. It’s a complicated moment. The ever-contemporary Bottega Veneta made a lasting impression. The brand unfurled bags and shoes that have the potential to become the best sellers of the season. Jil Sander, which has capitalized to the max on the fact that the market is embracing brands that exude essential elegance yet are defined by a minimal DNA. I found the Moncler Genius project more and more engaging and innovative. I liked Prada and I am thrilled and curious about the new collaboration announced with Raf Simons: Miuccia has always been ahead and confirms it with this decision. The season sort of hinted at the end of the 80s mini clubbing dress as evening is defining a new identity, with more composed looks, men’s over coats, tops and skirts. In terms of fresh talent, we have begun to record an interesting sales trend among designers like Giuseppe di Morabito. In terms of emerging “real thing” names, Gian Marco Funari is a name worth mentioning as someone I am keeping an eye on and could be our latest entry.”
“The shows themselves are what I liked the most about this fashion week. In Milan you can always see collections in really beautiful places, which are very different from those of London and New York. The big brands like Gucci and Prada always manage to present new and exciting sets for their shows. No other fashion city offers such experiences. My favorite collections were Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta and Prada for clothing and, again, Prada and Bottega Veneta for accessories. Among new brands, I chose Eera, which is transforming refined jewelry into something fun and more modern, perfect for girls. The trends that will emerge next season for me will be the return of black, fringe, luxurious tailoring and winter white.”
need to adopt male codes to be heard. Today, it is were prominent. Lucie and Luke Meier from Jil “subversive” to reinterpret female codes. Instead, Sander were unanimously applauded by designers. feminine and feminist concepts together are streng“The simplicity, the clean lines, the attention to the thened,” Silvia Venturini Fendi said, adding that she details… it seemed to me very balanced and peris dreaming of the day when “women of power will fect,” mused Miyako Sekimoto, Fashion Director be dressed in pink chiffon and not grisaille.” It’s a of Matsuya. At Fendi, Silvia Venturini proved she message that has captivated the press and buyers, is more than capable of carrying on the torch left as seen at the fashion show and colbehind by Karl Lagerfeld, just one lection designed by Daniel Lee for year ago. “This Fendi collection was AN Bottega Veneta, a triumph of fringe. the most beautiful of the last 10 yeEXTENSIVE Fringe took centre stage throughout ars. New materials, new shapes and a USE OF and proved a true must-have for the new atmosphere, everything… this was next season according to practicalone of my favorite collections,” TortaLEATHER ly all the buyers interviewed during to said. Many buyers shared this point AND FRINGE fashion week. Wooden clutches and of view, considering Fendi’s show the ALSO STOOD Chelsea boots were also among the best one, for its commercial contents OUT AS A KEY top items on their order lists. Monobut also for its message against hoTREND THIS chrome ensembles dominated the mologation. “As strong women, we can Bottega Veneta runway, illuminaredefine our own codes. We no longer SEASON 16
This is the season for refined tailoring and chic timeless elegance, and Italy is where it is done best! I particularly appreciated the debut of Walter Chiapponi at Tod’s. Fendi, Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander were by far my favorite collections. Federica Montelli
RINASCENTE HEAD OF FASHION
TOP TRENDS Fall-Winter 2020/2021 TYLER FRANCH
PRADA Max Mara
“It was really fantastic to see the strongest Made in Italy brands unfurl truly amazing collections. I think of the work done by Fendi, Bottega Veneta and Prada. I was surprised at how beautiful and sophisticated Agnona’s runway show was this season. Everything was incredible, from casting to collection. But I was also impressed by the shoes at N ° 21. As for the most convincing trends for the Fall-Winter 2020/2021, I have no doubt. The one I believe in most is the inspiration for men’s clothing, which concerned the choice of fabrics, but was also a contamination between men’s and women’s clothing.”
HUDSON’S BAY - CANADA FASHION DIRECTOR
When the main fans of an emerging brand are the top buyers of major retailers like Hudson’s Bay, Browns and Rinascente, it means that the commercial turnaround is now within reach. This is precisely what is happening for Luca Lin and Galib Gassanoff, the designer duo behind Act n ° 1, who with their work have attracted the attention of the main international buyers. Their fashion show, supported by the Camera Moda Fashion Trust, was a success among spectators and critics alike. Despite the fashion show location, which was situated outside of the center, just steps away from Fendi, insiders did not desert the show. “ Act n°1 is a hot name right now,” commented Federica Montelli of Rinascente. But the positive feedback for the brand distributed by Riccardo Grassi Showroom emanated from outside Italy’s borders. “We really like what is happening to the brand. It’s in full evolution,” said Tyler Franch, fashion director of Hudson’s Bay, who announced that that the brand is being launched in the department store’s Vancouver space, next Spring. Browns will also carry Act n°1 next Spring. “We have been keeping an eye on their work for a while and their collections are going really well,” said Browns, Head of Womenswear Heather Gramston. “The fact that this brand emerged among all the others and was distinguishable at this fashion week, was a good confirmation.” an.bi.
BUYERS HAVE NO DOUBTS: ACT N°1 IS ON AN UPWARD TRAJECTORY
BUYERS @ MILAN FASHION WEEK
For the Russian market, one of the most incisive brands is Brunello Cucinelli. Another very strong label is Dolce&Gabbana: the show was exciting and the collection was different from the norm even if it was recognizable.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT TOD’S Walter Chiapponi, who joined Tod’s in October after years working at Bottega Veneta, said he wanted to give “a soul and a total look to Italian lifestyle.” And with his first collection he does. A lot of buyers appreciated his work, that contributed to the younger mood of the collection.
CELJABINSK - RUSSIA OWNER BOUTIQUE XXI SECOLO
ted by measured touches of acidic is allowing Simons to aid her in colors. A contrast between short shaping the vision of her brand jackets for men and very long jafor the future. In Milan, new nackets of women took centre stames continue to emerge among ge, while accessories such as bohigher profile brands and amid a ots and maxi bags are punctuapacked calendar. Yet the young ted the runway. Accessories are persist. Act n°1 was one of the actually an integral factor in the most lauded by designers in the company’s growth story. ReveMilan lineup, while Calcaterra nues grew modestly in 2019, up and Marco Rambaldi were also 2.2% versus last year, top-ping mentioned. Italian buyers such Max Mara never one billion euro in total turnover as Silvano Vangi of LuisaViadisappoints and with for the group. At Prada, Miuccia Roma are known for keeping its outerwear you Prada won the unanimous conan eye on fresh talent. “Among are always on safe sent of the buyers (among the the new designers, we are beside. Moschino was most enthusiastic Tiffany Hsu ginning to see some sales moescape from any sort from Mytheresa, Tyler Franch mentum among young people of defining norm, from Hudson Bay, Mario Grauso such as Giuseppe di Morabito. beacuse simply from Holt Renfrew and Roopal Among the neophyte designers referring to what Patel from Saks with her jackets worth keeping an eye on, is Jeremy Scott does and skirts. The appointment of Gian Marco Funari: I want to as merely prêt-àRaf Simons as co-creative dievaluate that one carefully as it porter is really an rector has rendered the upcocould be our new entry.” Even understatement . ming September show one of the Federica Montelli of RinascenEkaterina Moiseeva most hotly anticipated events of te is keeping an eye on the new FASHION DIRECTOR the Spring Summer season. “It names on the ready-to-wear BOSCO DI CILIEGI RUSSIA was a decision that shook the fashion scene. “Positive signs fashion system and marks an abound: Brognano has demonimportant change for the Italian strated that he’s ma-tured this brand,” mused Astrid Boutrot of The Webeseason with a very refined collection, while ster. It is the first time, in fact, that such a Marco Rambaldi has a lot of potential to dehigh profile designer has chosen to open the velop, and Vitelli, with his creative knitwear, doors of the brand to a colleague. Even thouis a brand to watch”. (with contributions from gh Miuccia didn’t start the brand herself, she Alessandra Bigotta and Carla Mercurio). ■
BROGNANO Nicola Brognano kicked off a new double journey a the last fashion week. With is eponymous brand the designer moves on from his signature evening looks to create a more quotidian wardrobe. But the best is yet to come. In September the buyers expected to see Brognano’s full takeover of the brand Blumarine.
Thanks to all the fashion buyers met at MILAN FASHION WEEK for their support • Astrid Boutrot The Webster • Linda Fargo Bergdorf Goodman • Tyler Franch Hudson’s Bay • Heather Gramston Brown’s • Tiffany Hsu Mytheresa • Ekaterina Moiseeva Bosco di Ciliegi • Olga Mironova XXI Century Boutique • Federica Montelli Rinascente • Funda Mumcuoglu Bertrand Beymen • Miyako Sekimoto Matsuya Co. • Roopal Patel Saks Fifth Avenue • Nobuhiro Tahara Sanki • Riccardo Tortato Tsum • Silvano Vangi LuisaViaRoma
A GROUP DESIGN PROJECT FOR VALEXTRA: “STONGER TOGETHER”
e’re moving forward, we’re aware of the problem, but we’re going to solve it by working things out and thinking positive.” According to Valextra CEO Sara Ferrero’s plans, 2020 was supposed to be another year of double-digit growth for the handbag brand she has run since 2015. “January was off to a brisk start,” she said, but the global explosion of the coronavirus epidemic changed the scenario. Ferrero seems, however, to want to face the future with optimism, faithful to the motto “together stronger.” Even before the emergency broke out, this motto inspired the Extra Milano project: six mini collections created by as many designers who got their professional start in the city. It now has unexpectedly taken on a symbolic meaning. Are you worried about what’s happening? For a company like ours, which has decided to focus so
heavily on Asia and retail, the coronavirus is a big concern. But I am optimistic: I hope that the epidemic will slow down and even if the effects on the economy will outlast the health emergency, I think it is a transitory crisis. I hope that when we launch Extra Milano in May the climate will be better. How did this project come about? We wanted to create something that could talk about our Milanese legacy, a concept we use in our storytelling, but it is not something that’s easy to explain. That’s why we started with the intention of having six independent fashion designers collaborate on a single project to narrate Valextra’s holistic approach to creativity. The result are six mini collections, all unique and special. Instead of being seasonal, they are “collectible” in a design sense, which is a world we are very close to. This project also sums up a very positive moment for Valextra... I hope it will testify to the brand’s capacity to react, and the city’s. Our sales grew 20% in 2019. We have now exceeded 55 million euros in sales and doubled profitability. And we don’t want to stop there. (an.bi.) 1. Sara Ferrero 2. From left, the team of designers -entrepreneurs participating in the Extra Milano project: J. J. Martin, Arthur Arbesser, Massimo Alba, Sara Ferrero (Valextra Ceo), Carolina Castiglioni, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo (aka Sunnei) 2
SUPER TAPS YOSSI COHEN FOR LES COPAINS RELAUNCH The new era at Les Copains took off during Milan Fashion Week under the aegis of Super Srl, the new company formed by Alberto Zambelli (owner of Bruno’s, the knitwear factory and longtime Les Copains supplier). 1 After the Super acquisition last October, Les Copains is now being managed by Zambelli’s two children: Rodolfo Zambelli (CEO) and Camilla Zambelli (brand manager). The Zambelli siblings have rolled up their sleeves, guided by two goals: a return to knitwear, paying homage to founder Mauro Bandiera, who passed away in 2018; and innovation, thanks to the design talent of Yossi Cohen, an experienced hand with a background at, among others, Ballantyne, Php, Gas and Desa. “Bandiera was one of the first to bring the Parisian fashion trends of the 1970s to Italy,” Cohen explains. “And now Les Copains revives that French spirit with today’s contemporary and unconventional filter.” The new womenswear collection, made up of about 260 pieces, is the first step in the process of repositioning the brand, which “at a later date will be dedicated to empowering men, with the idea of subsequently expanding the horizon in terms of lifestyle, reactivating segments such as homewear, accessories and childrenswear,” 2 explains brand manager Camilla Zambelli. In the meantime, the 1. From left Yossi other main focus is on commercial Cohen , Camilla and Rodolfo Zappieri redevelopment, as highlighted by 2. A look fall-winter CEO Rodolfo Zambelli: “The goal is 2020/2021 Les to strengthen the brand in its historic Copains markets, such as Japan, Russia and the USA, where we will open other corners at Saks. We also want to reinforce our awareness in Italy, where we have about 70 multi-brand stores, and in the German-speaking countries, as well as in France and Spain.” To support the plans for Les Copains -- 100% Made in Italy, in house and in small artisan workshops -- a new headquarters on the outskirts of Bologna will open its doors this month. The 7,000 square meter complex hosts administrative offices and production areas. (a.t.)
NEWS @ MILAN FASHION WEEK
CRISTINA ORTIZ TO DRIVE ELEVENTY’S WOMENSWEAR TO A NEW LEVEL winter, I was inspired by the ecoarchitecture of the 1970s, when the importance of harmonizing shapes with the landscape came to the fore, thanks also to the use of noble materials,” said Ortiz, who also served as creative director at Ferragamo, Lanvin and Chantelle. “It’s a concept that I wanted to infuse into the collection through the selection of natural raw materials and working on the male DNA of the brand, to make it feminine without it being too complicated,” she said, adding that it is tailored for a “fashionable and dynamic woman, who is constantly in pursuit of new proportions and details” that render her look more contemporary. “It’s a new classic, a departure from the usual codes also due to unusual colour combinations,” she added. Among the top proposals are the dressing gown coats, 1970s style hoods, dresses A NEW with sculpted SHOWROOM silhouettes, IN MILAN sheepskin in terracotta tones, her, the collection is IS FOCUSED trousers and pant expected to evolve in ON skirts with wide a more contemporary WOMEN’S bottoms and satin light and will LINE camisoles defined by elevate our brand soft lines. The brand, to a new level, as controlled by the Vei Capital confirmed by the Nordstrom, fund, is growing. The full year Selfridges and Harrods new 2019 closed with a turnover of 28 entries.” The decision to open million euros, up 3.7% compared a new showroom focused versus 2018 and the goal, as exclusively on the womenswear Zuntini underlines, is to drive collection is emblematic of this earnings further in 2020 and open next phase: a 230 square metre a Milan flagship. “We have been space located at Corso Venezia looking for a suitable location for 5, redesigned by architecture a long time. We are looking for the firm Parisotto+Formenton was inaugurated during Milan women’s right position, if we can’t find it we prefer to wait.” ready to wear shows. “For next (c.me.) “New volumes, new cuts and a new feminine identity will propel us onto an ever-more international path,” Paolo Zuntini, president and creative director of the Eleventy women’s line, said referring to the brand’s latest venture: a new collaboration with former Ferragamo designer Cristina Ortiz will kick off next winter. “We are already well-positioned with our mens line and now our goal is to position our womens line, which today represents 30% of our sales, on a similar level.” The decision to entrust the womens wear line to Ortiz was strategic, Zuntini explained. “Thanks to
ALESSANDRO DE BENEDETTI UNVEILS A NEW ROMEO GIGLI COLLECTION After last season’s test, creative director Alessandro De Benedetti unveiled a new Romeo Gigli collection in Milan. The brand was launched in 1986 by the eponymous designer and acquired in 2012 by Eccentric, a Luxembourg-based entity that became an Italian limited company in 2017. “With Fall/ Winter 2020/2021, we added outerwear, duvets and knitwear to the clothing line, for 70 zero-kilometer pieces produced in Gallarate, just outside Milan, by PJ Project,” said the designer, formerly of Thierry Mugler and Mila Schön. De Benedetti is committed to “recreating the magic and dream that have made this brand one of the Made in Italy pioneers, with the use of exclusive fabrics in a contemporary lens.” Distributed by Studiozeta.org, the collection is gaining visibility in European markets and in the Middle East. An online debut with its own e-commerce site is coming soon.(a.t.)
LUISA SPAGNOLI SEES STRONG DIGITAL SALES: E-COMMERCE GROWS BY 40% EACH YEAR
On the catwalks at Milan Fashion Week for the third time, Luisa Spagnoli has strengthened its dialogue with international markets in a new focus for the brand. Of the 131 million euros in turnover in 2019 (up 4%), almost 90% was generated in its 150 boutiques in Italy. “We are also present abroad in about forty countries, with about 50 monobrand stores and about 90 multibrands,” explained CEO Nicoletta Spagnoli, the fourth generation of the family at the helm of the Umbria-based company. She reeled off the latest store openings: in St. Petersburg and (soon) in Moscow - the former USSR is a key market for the brand - and also Dubai and Kuwait City. New stores in Seoul and Los Angeles are on the agenda. “Where it is possible, particularly in Europe, we try to opt for monobrand stores so as to have control of the Luisa Spagnoli brand image.” Meanwhile, e-commerce continues to grow, with “leaps of 40% from year to year.” “Our strong point is our omnichannel approach, with a continuous dialogue between online and offline,” explained Nicoletta Spagnoli. “Consumers appreciate it so much that we decided to make the entire collection available on the site.” (a.t.)
SUSTAINABILITY FINDS A HOME Between Made in Italy and contemporary international proposals, the Milan trade fair continues to bet on raising awareness of more responsible fashion among visitors and extending the assortment of brands that have made sustainability their creed BY ELISABETTA FABBRI
ebruary’s White Milano was an unusual one, but the same could be said about Milan’s entire Fashion Week. The organizer M. Seventy said the number of visitors was inline with last year except for Sunday, when the Ministry of Health and regional authorities announced that coronavirus had spread to Lombardy. According to the exhibitors, most of the buyers at the show were Italian, but a few said that Russians were returning, and that visitors included Ukrainians, Croats, Turks, Europeans and a sprinkling of Asians. Everyone hopes that the situation will normalize in the second half of the year. In the meantime, White had no lack of new proposals, rendering the Fall-Winter 2020/2021 assortment even more compellign for international buyers. February’s event was a melting pot thanks to scouting ahead of the show, but also due to the rapport with Camera Buyer Italia and Confartigianato, as well as collaborations with international showrooms and organizations supporting emerging designers. Sustainable fashion continues to expand at White: around seventy brands and visitors seem to appreciate it. Buyer Uberta Zambeletti of Milan’s concept store Wait and See puts La Milanesa at the top of her list. This brand of bags produced in Milan is created by Cinzia Macchi, which recycles raw materials and is involved with charity projects. We chatted with her at Superstudio Più: “I never miss this section, where I always find the various brands that I’ve been buying for
years,” she said, adding that Scottish fabrics will be among the trends for next winter. “Unfortunately, I would say, I am still seeing a lot of basic colors.” “The attention White pays to sustainability is increasingly on target,” said Rosy Biffi of the Milanese boutiques Biffi and Banner. “We have seen a wide and varied selection, with some particularly interesting proposals. We always find the Give a Fok-us hub very incisive.” Maison Artc, Wråd and Vitelli are among the White brands that impressed Rosy Biffi, ready to bet on outerwear, coats and knitwear for Fal-Winter 2020/2021. Two other buyers who visited the Give a Fok-us section say they are very interested in sustainable brands, but the idea is “to include them in the shop as a single project.” “In our opinion we will never see 100% sustainability,” they said. Meanwhile, Endelea, another brand at Give a Fok-us, is trying to make it happen. This startup has its design operation in Italy but employs tailors in Tanzania, and buys only certified Wax fabrics on site. Part of its revenue goes to support educational programs for African students. “We would like to create scholarships for fashion design, which is a completely absent subject in Tanzania,” commented representatives at the Endelea stand. Staff hope to attract new buyers, but also investments to develop the business. The Ukraine-based Sustainable Showroom presented a series of sustainable brands in the Basement. Ochis Coffee eyewear is made with processed coffee waste and with cellulose
GIVE A FOK-US EXPLORES RAW MATERIALS
Since its kick-off a year ago, Give a Fok-us, hub envisaged by Matteo Ward (Wråd brand) continues to shine a light on sustainable fashion. This season, with the collaboration of Cittadellarte-Fondazione Pistoletto and Fashion Revolution, was no exception. With the focus on raw materials, main participants included cotton specialist the Albini Group which unveiled select fabrics from its Albini Donna range, including organic linen dyed with catechu (a coloring extracted from the acacia plant) or in hypoallergenic bio cotton, as well as silky materials made with Tencel Lyocell, a fiber extracted from cellulose from eucalyptus forests.
triacetate lenses. Calla slippers, designed in Paris but handmade in Morocco, recycle vintage Berber rugs. The 91 Lab knitwear couture is woven from high-end organic or recycled raw materials, while Devo womenswear offers green hemp fur. According to Maria Masliy, co-founder of the Sustainable Showroom,“customers in the USA, UK, and Australia are the most attentive. But the interest is growing in Italy. For us, sustainability is a necessity rather than an added value.” Elsewhere at the Basement, the slow fashion of Kok stood out. This brand created in 2012 by Karen Quirion comes from Canada, where all the garments are handmade in a small atelier. “We only produce on order and we only sell a few pieces online, due to the long production time involved with hand craftsmanship.” It was
AN AWARD FOR MAISON ETNAD AND MAISON ARTC White founder Massimiliano Bizzi, together with Claudio Betti of the Spinnaker store, presented the Inside White Award for this edition (pictured on the left) to the Spainbased bags brand, Maison Etnad, which was co-founded by Fer Blasco. Maison Artc, founded by the designer Artsi Ifrach, who was the Special guest in February, was awarded (photo on the right) by Beppe Angiolini of the Sugar boutique. Maison Artc was applauded for their “approach to sustainable, inclusive fashion of unique, artistic garments that embrace the concept of slow fashion.”
CALLA INES DE LA FRESSANGE PARIS
the designer’s first time in Italy, and she hopes to make herself known as she gradually picks up European distribution (Layers London and SN3 in Belgium are among the multi-brands where she is already present). The Wright brand comes from Belgium, the latest entry at White’s Special Area, which has impressed Italian buyers especially for the trench coats-dressing gowns in highend materials. “Eighty percent of the fabrics are Italian, and everything is produced in Romania,” explained brand manager Gaetan Goesens. “One of our strengths is the price-to-quality ratio. On Thursday and Friday, we met various Italian buyers and signed orders. Others will return to Paris, to our showroom in the Marais, where the assortment is wider.” The Cynthia & Xiao brand hails from Hong Kong and is part
MELONIA BY NAIM JOSEFI
of the Your Concept Showroom portfolio. They debuted at White with hyper-colored Made in China knitwear woven from quality raw materials such as Merino wool and hand made accents. “We want to convey a sense of happiness,” said designer Cynthia Mak. The Parisian brand Ines de la Fressange Paris is planning to enter the Italian market through the Tora Tora showroom. The “classic with a twist” womenswear targets to be available in 25 stores dotted across Italy’s largest cities, in concept or traditional department stores consistent with the image of the brand launched by the French style icon Inès de la Fressange, who is the art director. “We don’t think of a minimum order but a minimum image,” they said in the showroom. This edition of White also saw the launch of new single-product
projects, such as the jackets-shirts of the T-Coat brand, launched by the Veronese company Telarosa. Febe unveiled overalls made in Milan, which play with silhouettes, materials and printed linings. The shoe designer Lana Volkov, Australian but now Italian by adoption, produces her footwear in San Mauro Pascoli. Attractive leathers and attention to comfort, even if the heel is 10 cm are among the winning qualities. Naim Josefi has decided to approach the Italian market with a “wow” effect: a collection of stilettos dubbed Melonia, produced in Sweden with 3D printers.“They are a mix of art and design, but they fit perfectly, because technology allows them to be custommade,” he said. At the end of the show he confided: “My feeling is that Swedish buyers dare a little more than Italian ones.” ■
SICILIAN KNOW-HOW THRUST ONTO AN INTERNATIONAL STAGE Sicilian talent on display at White. A special project supported by the EU shines a spotlight on 41 brands united by the common thread of craftsmanship, and eager to grow
La Vie en Rosalia
The capsule collection of the La Vie en Rose brand develops themes of Sicilian traditions in a riot of carts, lights, lemons, prickly pears, damasks and baroque motifs. This emphasis on cultural heritage got the collection picked up by national department store chain Rinascente.
BY CARLA MERCURIO
Artisanal leather goods; an artist who uses garments like canvases; an architect who designs clothing with geometric rigor; traditional straw bags embellished with tassels, trimmings and mirrors: the Focus on Sicily project at White showcased the varied and colorful creativity of this stunning island. The common thread is craftsmanship, a cultural strength that has long been Sicily’s backbone: know-how that deserves to be seen and heard on the international stage. Forty-one brands were selected, united by loyalty to their Made in Sicily roots and by their growing attention to sustainability. Very often, these brands are owned by women or micro-enterprises, relying on a network of workshops and small companies. These networks are home to companies that are custodians of ancient and precious techniques and processes, now producing for leading international prêt-àporter brands. “Today fashion represents 1% of all Sicilian exports, equal to about 90 million euros, but there are many players with great potential: it is important to support them,” explained Carmelo Frittitta, general manager of the Productive Activities Department of the Region Sicily. The Region and White worked together on this project, supported by funding from the European Union Regional Development Fund Program 2014/2020 to develop regional exports. ■
Cats, zebras, flamingos and bizarre human faces populate the imagination of Filly Cusenza, an architect who applies his creative patchwork to shirts, T-shirts, dresses and bags.
SICILIAN CREATIVITY UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT AT THE FAIR
A White regular for several seasons now, Cettina Bucca mixes tailoring and sensations for her Made in Sicily creations, crafted from carefully selected sustainable natural materials.
Raised in her grandmother’s tailor shop, Giada Pavone conceives her bags as if they were pieces of clothing, with great attention to construction. These unique creations are entirely handmade with recycled leather from the food chain.
Asciari is characterized by tailored garments with spare lines, natural fabrics (often organic) and is entirely handmade in Sicily. The double cashmere coat is a standout piece.
Palermo architect Daniela Vinciguerra’s tailored creations are inspired by design, with geometric lines and minimal shapes. They are made in a Bronte workshop with strictly Italian fabrics.
Tiziana Tizzini’s exuberant creativity turns Sicilian tradition of straw bucket bags into precious objects embellished with tassels, silks, trimmings and mirrors, also coveted by important brands. We will see them become miniskirts for next winter.
ONES TO WATCH @ SUPER & THEONEMILANO
BY CARLA MERCURIO AND ANGELA TOVAZZI
DIEGO M @ THEONEMILANO
Winter coats took centre stage. An array dominated by Mohair, 100% Merino wool and cashmere fabrics Fall-Winter jackets were showcased in long and short versions, enhanced with original details such as fur collars, detachable pockets, down inserts and hideaway hoods.
JUÁREZ CAMACHO @ SUPER
FABIO GAVAZZI @ THEONEMILANO
Alongside its Fall-Winter 2020/2021 womens wear line, Fabio Gavazzi unfurled his first menswear collection, made up of about 40 pieces.
After studying at the Marangoni Institute in Milan, the young Mexican designer created a Made in Italy collection of leather goods inspired by the craftsmanship and traditions of his country - reworked with a modern spirit.
THE NEW CONTEMPORARY CHIC IS PLANET FRIENDLY From outerwear to knitwear, from romantic dresses to shoes, contemporary taste is the common thread of some selected proposals seen at Super and TheOneMilano. Knitwear, outerwear, total looks and accessories focus on materials, details and sustainable contents
STREET BY OBLIQUE @ THEONEMILANO
Following the success of Oblique, the Bologna-based company, Oblique Creations Srl, unveiled a new collection, Street by Oblique. An easy wear label of 30 pieces, with an active wear edge. After opening a popup on via Manzoni, Milan, Oblique Creations is planning a monobrand store in this same city.
BE YOU – GÉRALDINE ALASIO @ SUPER
Made with 100% cashmere, Be You is made in Mongolia and is the result of the collaboration between the Cashmere showroom in Milan and designer Géraldine Alasio.
DAPHNE MILANO @ THEONEMILANO
Now in its third year, Daphne Milano revolves around the magic of the dress, in jersey for everyday moments, and in silks printed with floral designs, silk velvets, brocades and lace for someone special.
IINDACO @ SUPER
Domitilla Rapisardi and Pamela Costantini have targeted an area of a luxury design centred around circular economy: recycled and recyclable heels and insoles, biodegradable linings and leather derived from the food chain.
ZYNE @ SUPER
Born in Casablanca, Zineb Britel together with her friend Laura Pujol founded a collection of handmade shoes hand crafted by local artisan women that imbues Moroccan traditions with contemporary fashion trends.
AFTERLABEL @ SUPER
From next winter’s collection, the emerging designer Alberto Premi will be at the helm of Afterlabel: a brand with a concept rooted in high-performance outerwear, combining technical materials and quality details. 25
SAINT LAURENT AND BALENCIAGA TAKE CENTER STAGE
THE STRONGEST TREND WAS A POWERFUL FEMININITY WITHOUT FRILLS
Anthony Vaccarello conquered buyers, while the apocalyptic Balenciaga was a show to remember. Balmain, Dior Valentino exceeded expectations, while Virgil Abloh’s new Off-White was a sign of changing times BY ALESSANDRA BIGOTTA
he latest Paris ready-to-wear shows will forever be remembered as an event of Je m’en fous, French for “I don’t care” in the face of the coronavirus. While fashion insiders were in abundance, the hysteria eventually took its toll as events unfolded. “In reality, the pressure linked to the health emergency emerged and in the end, the French capital emptied out,” observed Riccardo Tortato, Tsum’s e-commerce fashion director. Some showrooms have only worked with digital media and in others security measures were taken for everyone, as spectators were obliged to wear masks. Society was split: on one hand, fear crippled daily life, while others took on a “the show must go on” attitude. Overall, there was no shortage of show-stopping collections:
BUYERS @ PARIS FASHION WEEK
Saint Laurent was “beautiful and was a valid re-interpretation of the archive,” reflected Silvia Bini (owner of Bini Silvia and Càos in Viareggio). “For me it was the best,” said Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente. “It was extremely intriguing due to its decadent bourgeois style,” commented Nathalie Lucas-Verdier of Printemps. The show that left everyone speechless was Balenciaga’s apocalyptic showcase, a mirror of the times we live in, “with the most impressive scenography of the season,” remarked Tiffany Hsu, Mytheresa fashion buying director. Immersed in the darkness of Balenciaga, buyers also noted an abundance of black throghout the collections. “Valentino’s total black looks will likely be among the must-haves for the season,” said Federica Montelli. Thoughts on Balmain:
“Olivier Rousteing is a master of elegance, sensuality and strength,” underscored Olga Mironova, owner of Boutique XXI Secolo in Celjabinsk, Russia. Celine also impressed due to its sophisticated and aristocratic fashions,” said Beppe Angiolini, owner of Sugar in Arezzo. Massimiliano De Marianis, senior buyer of Folli Follie in Mantova, echoed that view. “The best style in circulation was the work of Hedi Slimane, who should be applauded for his consistency.” Both De Marianis and Sabina Zabberoni of Julian Fashion in Milano Marittima praised Miu Miu for its sophisticated appeal, while Area Ti owner Tiberio Pellegrinelli (fashion and buying consultant for many luxury Italian multibrands), said not to overlook Lanvin: “Reviving the brand was not easy, but Bruno Sialelli is excelling.” Among those who lauded Dior was Paolo Mantovani, owner of Tuscany’s Mantovani. “Maria Grazia Chiuri has risen to the occasion. Her luxury is not only of the highest one of quality... one that is immediately distinguishable, but current. I was also struck by the contamination between street and couture at Off-White,” he said. “We got back from Paris with clear ideas. The time has come to beckon true elegance and a powerful femininity that is void of any exaggeration. Sequins and paillettes are out. The brands who reign supreme are those who will endure the test of time.” ■
PRADA’S NEW EXPERIMENT PAVES THE WAY
Miuccia Prada tapped Raf Simons as co-director of her family’s label, in an unprecedented, strategic move. Brands across the boardare embracing a new era, bringing the theme of generational change to the fore. In an age in which Italian fashion dynasties are hard-pressed to safeguard the future of their companies, will Prada serve as an example for other brands? Will this co-collaboration endure?
he announcement came suddenly on Sunday, February 23rd, as the final Milan ready-to-wear shows were cancelled as the cases in the Lombardy region rose unexpectedly, diffusing a sense of panic throughout the fashion capital. Nevertheless, next month, Raf Simons will assume the role as cocreative director of Prada. The decision shocked insiders, who expected Simons to be tapped as creative director of Miu Miu. The news has also paved the way for similar scenarios, not just within the Milanese company, but also for other Italian luxury dynasties, which are preparing to pass the baton to the future generations. At the press conference, Miuccia Prada, who
turned 70 this year, debunked rumours that she has planned her exit, but it is difficult not to assume that Raf Simons will one day be the creative heir in pectore of the brand when Miuccia inevitably retires. “All the fashion houses are facing the issue of change,” explained Guido Corbetta, professor at Bocconi who is also the head of AIdAF, the Italian Association of Family Businesses, which was founded in 1997 by industrialist Alberto Falk. “The fact that Prada has opted for a co-management and a gradual transition, at a time when Miuccia is still fully operational, is a signal that the company has been mulling these issues and is poised to address them.” Whether or not this strategy will work,
is a different issue, as the stylistic direction of Prada will now be spearheaded by two strong leaders. And though they both share the same conceptual vision and the same desire to preserve the purity of the creative process from design to marketing, in an age where fashion is one of the most influential purveyors of culture. A similar spirit of teamwork that was tested at Prada years ago, when Jil Sander was still a part of the listed company’s roster of brands, will now be played out on a higher level and at a time when Prada is under pressure to restore sales momentum and compete with rocketing stars like Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, who with his gender fluid aesthetic and surreal runway shows has made Gucci stand out as one of the best performers of the Kering group, driving the conglomerate's revenues close to 10 billion euros. The market now awaits the results of this first collaboration, that will be unfurled in September of 2020. “Prada and Raf Simons seem like an appropriate step,” Luca Solca, Senior Research Analyst, Luxury Goods at Bernstein told Fashion. “But the choice of creative talent for a brand is one of the most difficult. The result depends a lot on the chemistry between the personality of the creative and the brand's DNA, which in this case has
1. The new couple Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons 2. Margherita Missoni, M Missoni's creative director 3. Giorgio Armani, age 85, during the Spring-Summer 2020 fashion show 4. Donatella Versace, at the helm of Versace style
been made more complex by teaming up with a giant like Miuccia Prada." Not only is the Prada Group taking a risk in terms of style, but also sales, though Jil Sander by Raf Simons (prior to his three-years at Dior and the unsuccessful experience with Calvin Klein) performed well due to the perfect synthesis of creativity and marketability. More interesting is the question: could the atypical strategy of the Prada Group spur similar collaborations? A few come to mind: Ferragamo, Missoni, Versace, Armani. On the business side, some of them have already discussed solutions, as well as the obstacles that could hinder their long-term growth. Case in point: Ferragamo, which listed its shares on the stock exchange and opened the company to a manager outside of the family. Missoni in 2018 sold a majority stake to pri-
vate equity firm FSI Mid-Market years ago to take the creative reins of M Growth Equity Fund in preparaMissoni. A truly stand-alone case history tion for an IPO expected in 2023, is that of Giorgio Armani, who is in control and Versace, which in 2018 sold of both style and business at his company nearly the entirety of its shares and therefore in control of the company’s to American firm Capri Holdidentity. The ageing designer has set up ings. But for others an uncera foundation to ensure the stability of the tain future and creative sucgroup and has reiterated that "everything cession remains - in large part, is under control and what will happen will because talent and passion are be made known at the right time.” “It will 3 not necessarily hereditary forcbe interesting to see how this company es. In the case of Prada, none of her chilcan evolve and survive without its founder, dren have expressed interest in fashion which I hope is in a still distant future,” design. Her son Lorenzo Bertelli is active Solca added. Corbetta agreed. “We are in the company as Head certainly faced with a of Marketing & Com“Giorgio Arm“GIORGIO ARMANI unicum. munication, perhaps in ani is one of those perIS A UNICUM. preparation to take consonalities who cannot HE’S A MAN WHO be called into question. trol of the business side. The Versace family faces He is an exceptional HAS LOOKED a similar fate. Icon DonFORWARD, FACED figure and for this reaatella Versace was conhis succession is a AND RATIONALLY son firmed as creative direcvery delicate issue. He’s PLANNED THE tor by John D. Idol, but a man who has looked POST ARMANI”. none of the Versace famforward, faced and raily heirs are interested in tionally planned the holding the creative scepter of the maison post Armani era.” Will it work? It’s imposin their hands. At Missoni, president Ansible to know for sure. “Much will depend gela Missoni is also the stylistic soul of on whether Armani will place those on the the brand. However, her daughter Marreceiving end of his strategic direction into gherita returned to the company just two number one spots, like him.” ■
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WAYS THROUGH THE CERTIFICATION MAZE
In the maze of certifications and certifiers, which ones mean that a garment is truly sustainable? There is still no clear answer, but exhibitors at Milano Unica said they are continuing to adopt virtuous behavior as they prepare for cultural change
BY ELISABETTA FABBRI
oogle search data shows that web queries on Italian fashion brands usually tend to associate keywords such as “quality,” “authenticity,” and “reliability.” This may be obvious, but adjectives such as sustainable, cruelty free, long-lasting, and vegan have also been appearing in searches for some time now, based on a recent analysis by Prometeia, which reads this trend as a symptom of new expectations for Made in Italy products. According to Prometeia, the curious and connected younger generations are more attentive to the values surrounding a product than to its quality - which they are less able to evaluate than their grandparents. But how can the industry provide reliable informaton, raise awareness and justify higher prices for responsible fashion, at a time when few consumers are willing to pay for it? With a QR code, which is a good storytelling tool but limited by its digital format, or with a universally recognized logo, like the simple and immediate one that Franco Grignani invented in the 1960s for pure wool? It is the high-end of the Italian fashion supply chain that is shouldering the greatest burden of sustainable business choices. But this message is not reaching the final buyer (brands rarely indicate their suppliers on the labels). Nor is it even reaching the possible intra and extra-supply chain partners (such as distribution agents, buyers, sales clerks and the world of finance). GOTS, GRS, ISO, Oeko-Tex, PEF and Reach are only some of the multiple certifications (each obviously awarded by its own certification body) that producers of raw materials display on their websites. They are often not easy to understand and greater uniformity is needed. The 30th edition of the Milano Unica textile fair was an opportunity to interact with entrepreneurs on the certification issue, and to begin to find a solution. “In the near future, creativity and sustainability will have to contend with product certification - but so will the entire production process,” said Ercole Botto Poala, outgoing Milano Unica president and owner of Successori Reda, the first woolen mill in the world to obtain EMAS certification for continuous improvement of environmental performance. “It will not be an easy
A photo by Erdna taken at the last edition of Milano Unica
task because it can’t be solved without investment. We have to see if this cost can be spread out across the entire supply chain. But if we want to move from words to action, we must face this challenge.” What do you think about working towards a shared definition of sustainability? “In the end, it is a number, which would allow us to set targets and work towards a goal,” said Botto Poala. “Sustainability is exploding as an issue, and we must know how to measure it,” said Marino Vago, SMI-Sistema Moda Italia President and Vago SpA CEO, which dyes and processes yarns. “The first step is traceability, and the second is to adopt a blockchain, which would guarantee transparency.” “Sustainability is a widespread concern,” said Andrea Crespi, Eurojersey General Manger and SMI Sustainability Committee President. “In the absence of regulation, there are many ways to interpret sustainability: the textile manufacturer is guided by a certain number of certifications and certification bodies but must also content with client companies, which have their own rules.” The Greenpeace Detox campaign, aimed at eliminating clothing toxic to humans and polluting the environment, is a stimulus, but it is too stringent, he explained. More effective is the European Reach legislation on the use of chemical substances introduced in 2006 to protect people and the environment, said Crespi. ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals), a protocol on chemical management backed by global brands authorizes a series of substances necessary for production. Lastly, compa33
SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE 4
1. Marzotto invested in certification for Merino wool 2. Green guidelines edited by CNMI with SMI and other partners 2. Some 3 Oeko-Tex experts 2
EMAS-Eco management system: a tool developed by the EU Commission, for companies that voluntarily decide to be assessed and report on their environmental performance. GOTS-Global organic textile standard: certifies organic textiles, which respect stringent environmental and social criteria. GRS-Global recycle standard: promoted by the Textile Exchange organization, it certifies products obtained from recycled materials and manufacturing activities and defines the standards for environmental impact. ISO: a series of standards of the International Organization for Standardization relating to quality management. Those in the 9000 series concern the process and the product, while the 14000 series regulates environmental management systems. LCA-Life-cycle assesment: analysis that measures the impact of a garment on the environment and health, considering its entire life cycle. OEKO-TEX: one of the most widespread textile certifications in Europe, guarantees the absence of hazardous substances. OCS-Organic Content Standard: indicates the presence of natural fibers deriving from organic agriculture. PEF-Product Environmental Footprint: methodology that measures the environmental performance of a product. RWS-Responsible wool standard: guarantees that wool comes from farms geared towards animal welfare and the reduction of the environmental impact.
nies should measure their own environmental impact. “Europe has tical about a standardized solution. “There is no certification downintroduced the PEF (Product Environmental Footprint), a methodology stream, which is where we need transparency about how the finished for assessing the environmental footprint over the entire production garments are made,” he said, emphasizing that wool is natural and cycle through a series of indicators including the energy consumed, biodegradable. “Sustainability must be taken seriously, and it is the carbon footprint, the water footprint, ecotoxicity, eutrophication of closely intertwined with the local community,” said Paolo Torello Vifresh and marine waters and acidification and human toxicity,” he era, former CEO of Lanificio Cerruti. “Regarding certifications, I besaid. Eurojersey was the first textile company in the world to obtain a lieve that everyone must commit to respecting certain rules. Our apPEF certificate in April 2019, but it has been publicly committed since proach is to be as careful as possible, like a good father.” “The prob2007 to improving efficiency, in order to reduce the impact on the enlem is that each customer provides a different specification, and vironment. “I think we must prepare for fewer impulse buys and a shift there is no single one for textiles,” he continued. “Some customers to quality and durable products, while the economy is linked to the even ask us to show them our payroll: this is almost offensive to a concept of consumerism, for maximizing profit. We are going through Made in Italy company. In addition, there is a risk of revealing trade a moment of great confusion,” he said. “We have an internal team secrets. Perhaps the Biella-based textile companies could join dedicated to sustainability but we must be honest: 100% sustainability forces to create a single set of specifications.” Marzotto Wool is impossible,” said Vasiliy Piacenza, brand managManufacturing has invested independently on er of Fratelli Piacenza. “Just think of the chemicals own certification for Merino wool, Authentico, SUSTAINABILITY its needed to fix the color. We work with the Centro Teswhich guarantees traceability from the breeder SHOULD BE sile e Salute and customers are acknowledging the to the fabric, as well as respect for animal TAUGHT effort we have made over the years. But there is a health. “It could become a standard,” said the price problem: sustainability has a cost.” “The comIN SCHOOLS company’s top manager Giorgio Todesco. In the mon goal is to recycle and get clean, but it takes last two years, Marzotto Wool Manufacturing time: it cannot be achieved over night,” said Giuliano Magnani, genhas invested 6.5 million euros to render the processes more suseral manager of Labeltex Group, which makes labels, also in recycled tainable. Another challenge is organic wool, which today is a rare PET or in a corn-derived compostable plastic. “Trade associations commodity in the world. “In Australia there are only a few breedseem to be manoeuvering in the dark. I think the most rigorous among ers, while the rest come from South America and South Africa,” the various certifications is ISO 9002, but it is slow and expensive.” said Todesco. “To verticalize, we acquired 25% of Schneider, the “For our certification, we chose ISO 14001,” said Alessandro Barberis largest GOTS-certified producer, with farms in Patagonia, of Canonico of Vitale Barberis Canonico, the incoming Milano Unica which we are the largest customer.” The next challenge is to elimpresident. SMI has published guidelines on sustainability in order“to inate pre-metallized acid dyes, even if it is “impossible to do inplace some signposts,” he said. “We want to catalyze a clean-up,” he piece dyeing.” Todesco probably speaks for many others when he continued. “We will continue to work towards this goal each year, but says that the sustainability process involves a lot of questioning, and we also need to form an alliance with the end consumer. The other that the road ahead is still long. The important thing is to get started challenge is cultural: sustainability should be taught in schools.” on the journey. The rest will depend on consumer spending power and Luca Trabaldo Togna of the Trabaldo Togna textile company is skephow well we educate tomorrow’s fashion lovers. ■ 34
FA N 5 ADV Trebarrabi DEF.indd 1
` Trebarrabi back to basic 03/03/20 15.17
SPRING-SUMMER 2021 FABRICS
NEW PATTERNS NEW TWIST
A series of unexpected bright colors and a blue palette where wool looks like cotton denim - usher in a new season. Plain colors be banned! For both men and women checks, XL stripes, chevron and a performing Prince of Wales, perfect for travel. BY ELISABETTA FABBRI
EUR In dĂŠg OJERS shade radĂŠ and c EY Sensit s, the Reve ontrasting a tech ive Fabrics lation che c in the no-urban is a candid k by name summ a of com er war te for drobe fort
CANCLINI A summer proposal for sh of the new Per Lei line, irts wh appeals to a young, dyn ich amic consumer looking for polished womenswear looks
ALBINI Thomas Mason fabric s for summer of 2021 featur the e col stripes, inspired by the ored mu of New York City lights ltitude and modern art of the new the Wh Museum designed by itney Renzo Piano
a O OTT aged as ture, BON s are envis fine sculp e as v r Fabric g block fo er than ser for in h t c d a e il r f r t by bu haped d he. Pe s to be rative swat haracterise o c c k e o d o l a scale an up lines n clea
MA R The O ZOTT O r g 100% anic line linen wool, woo is availabl e All fa and wool/l l/cotton, 1 in brics 00% inen v are ce GOTS ersion and A standard, rtified with s. R u the tr tentico, w WS stand the a produ nsparency hich ensur ard e ction chain of the entir s e
O 1900 TOLLEGN s on naturalness, se The brand focu ering aund with double-l for a linen threads, of e qu ni ch te us eo en og d hom harmonious an for jackets with a t ec look. Itâ€™s perf ood m contemporary
ERIS ARB B E L s VITA NICO O mpasse CAN age line enco nsembles. e t The Vin ric for casual dyed is b luxe fa wool thread that e re The pu pray techniqu a denim s r a b a h f e ic or linen wit ishes th on embell imilar to cott s , t c e f f e
PIACENZA Wales is of The blue Prince line, which aia part of the Ushu rtified s ce Rw es at or incorp ols from wo performance t, kled and resistan rin W a. ni go Pata g in wist wash thanks a high-t rfect for cool e pe ar ey th s, es proc rn on the go wo be jackets, to
FRATE L DI DEL LI TALLIA FINO The chevro n Portofino fabrics of the Summer B lend serie are an arra s y with vegan of fine wool mixed fibers suc linen, silk h and cotton as hemp,
SPRING-SUMMER 2021 TEXTILE ACCESSORIES
Attention to details
Denim and vegan leather are crafted into roses and decorative bows
The zipper is made with New Life and the steel chain is made without an electroplating process
BY ELISABETTA FABBRI
PALM ANGELS BOSIDENG
At the last Milano Unica, textile accessories took center stage. Denim, eco-leather, recycled plastic and soft-touch materials will be cool in summer 2021.
They dangle like charms and bear messages - made in recycled Pet and soft-touch, ecopolyurethane
A silicone patch made with a sustainable pocess, void of damaging substances
The soft plissĂŠ is sewn with chain stitching and made with certified organic cotton
Gritti Made in vegan ivory, this decorative button is made without harsh chemicals
The label is made of sustainable materials with a natural palette Creazioni Andry
Romantic and popironic inspirations for the new bijoux buttons 38
LINEAPELLE THINKS GREEN Novelties were abundant at Lineapelle, the exhibition of materials for luxury, fashion, design, automotive and furniture. Conceria Superior, a key tannery, returned to the fair with a renewed stand by AquiliAlberg and promoted a new, groundbreaking eco project together with the Navacchio Technological Innovation Hub. XL Extralight (Finproject Group) presented the Xircular sustainable sneaker concept. Green Innovation is also the mantra of Mastrotto Group, a tanning company that chose to focus on leathers in natural, organic and metal free materials. Vibram highlighted its ultra cushioned Vibram Sole System midsole + sole. The leitmotiv of Swarovski’s Spring-Summer 2021 (pictured) is “Time to Shine,” thanks to new “ignite” effects, as well as unusual seasonal colors, like Iris. Active in the manufacture of innovative fabrics for fashion and lifestyle, Italian Converter expanded its 100% traceable and made in Italy E.C.O. Kosmos cross-collection. (a.b.)
FOCUS ON NEW ARTISANS AT HOMI FASHION &JEWELS
The accessories universe was the protagonist of Homi Fashion&Jewels, which is more than a fair: it is a hub for trends, information and industry conversation. One of the most interesting aspects of the Milanese exhibition was the spotlight on Italian craftsmanship, for which the hashtag #iamthemaker was created. Many Italian brands count on this unique and “very Italian” value: for example Russo Cammei, specialized in cameos since 1896 and Jasha and L’Orafo del Legno, created by Salvatore D’Orsi. Others were brought to the fore, like Vitti Ferria Contin, Vittoria Ferria Contin’s jewel collection, founded in 2006. Another female-run brand is BP: Barbara Proverbio founded this label of glass accessories after studying architecture. “I transform my desires into objects,” said Francesco Massari of Gemmarium Italia, while Maria Angelucci of Amlé (pictured) underscores the value of an artisanal DNA, one that Dario De Maria of D. De Maria said distinguishes Italian brands in a globalized market. There are many other stories to discover: from the fashions of Atelier Blusahel by Pasqualina Altieri, to the challenges of Maria and Laura Maresca with their Maresca Officine Orafe; and from the artistic jewels of Valentina Laganà to the classic ones by Aonie of Paola Coti. Made in Italy brands with a “rocker” spirit were also in view, like the bags of Serena Sinibaldi for Eré. (a.b.)
FW 2020/2021 @ MICAM & MIPEL
BY ANGELA TOVAZZI
CAFÉNOIR @ MICAM
The animal print with a soft soul: the brand new ankle boot in crocodile print for any time of day.
ACBC @ MICAM
“Acbc Feel Good” debuts on the market, a selection of ecosustainable products, with minimal design and made with low environmental impact technologies.
LIU JO @ MICAM
Alongside women’s and children’s shoes the upmarket brand unveiled its Liu Jo Lab project, a special area dedicated to customized sneakers.
AO NON FASHION @ MICAM Founded in 2019 by Francesco Viozzi and Sophia Lui, the brand offers shoes made in Italy with totally ecosustainable materials.
CONFRONTING CRISIS WITH CREATIVITY AND KNOW-HOW Custom-made pieces and exclusive cross-fertilization collaborations were the hallmark of the two fairs that unfurled upscale shoes and bags at Milan’s Rho-Pero trade grounds The trade fair events showcasing footwear (Micam) and leather goods (Mipel) managed to take place as usual in Milan, despite the concerns related to Covid-19. Attendance fell by 5% for Micam and rose 22% for Mipel. After the two events ended, the virus emergency broke out in the Lombard capital, and it is already putting a strain on the manufacturing sector. While it is impossible to draw conclusions and make estimates at press time, companies are already taking stock of the damage caused by the coronavirus. It will have an impact on what was already a difficult situation. In 2019, in fact, footwear and leather goods showed a two-speed growth, with a strong gallop in exports (+ 28.8% in the first ten months for leather goods and + 6.8% for footwear). This growth however was driven by luxury brands that produce in Italy. Smaller companies face great difficult.
YNOT? @ MIPEL
Bold color and glam rock details for YNot?, which showcased a large collection of bags with clean and structured shapes.
CROMIA @ MIPEL
The new look of the brand is called “Light Opulences,” an oxymoron that links luxury and sobriety, with rigorous design and energetic colors.
PEPE JEANS @ MICAM PRIMIGI @ MICAM
The collaboration between Primigi and Michelin children’s shoes is strengthened with PMG #Black Lab Running 4x4, with soles made by the French tire giant.
The No. 22 sneaker is made with a coating composed of a transparent titanium dioxide film, capable of reducing nitrogen oxide by up to 80% when it is in contact with UV rays.
+MIPEL 22 %
MICAM PLINIO VISONA‘ @ MIPEL
The absolute protagonist of the collection is the Anniversary model, available in three sizes, which filters lines from the 1950s in a contemporary key.
LA MARTINA @ MICAM
A new look for the brand’s collection bags, which has just signed a license with the Principe company, and recently opened an ad hoc showroom in via Gesù in Milan.
LIGHT + BOLD INVERTIBILI BONAVERI
Born in 1950 near Ferrara, it is now one of the leaders in its sector
THE EVER-CHANGING WORLD OF MANNEQUINS Innovative, multi-shaped, green, transformable: the new “humanoids” evolve with fashion Avantgarde products, growing research, important deals: the world of mannequins is constantly evolving and Italy is in pole position. Adel Rootstein (one of the top brands in this business with extremely realistic male and female display mannequins, previously owned by Japan’s Yoshichu Mannequin Co. Ltd) is now under the umbrella of Bonaveri. At the recent edition of Euroshop exhibition in Düsseldorf this company, based near Ferrara, unveiled impressive collections: among them Obsession (with the Schläppi brand) and Twiggy, inspired by the icon of swinging London. Sustainability is a priority: Bonaveri launched its first biodegradable mannequin in 2016, made of B Plast, a bio-based polymer made of 72% sugarcane derivative and painted in B Paint, composed of renewable, organic substances and free of any petrolbased material. Another specialized player, MD Studio, uses recyclable, non-deformable impact-resistant polystyrene, together with the more traditional wood and papier-mache. Sustainability and innovation go hand in hand at Hans Boodt Mannequins, which aims to render its headquarters completely Co2-free by the end of the year, in addition its goal to achieve an eco, circular product line with 100% recycled and recyclable materials by 2023. Among the new features of Hans Boodt presented at the Euroshop fair was Untitled, a mannequin based on 3D human scans. Thanks to a scanner, every feature is embedded in a digital rendering, then printed and transformed in a perfect humanoid. c.bo.)
Traditional and high tech materials cohexist in a wide offer HANS BOODT
Thanks to 3D, mannequins are extremely realistic 41
SENIOR BUYER MENSWEAR (m/f) Siamo un‘azienda di moda ricca di tradizione con una forte vocazione contemporanea, che distribuisce più di 350 marchi in 4 negozi in Alto Adige. Per la nostra sede centrale di Bolzano cerchiamo un Senior Buyer Abbigliamento Uomo (m/f) Entra a far parte del Buying Team e diventa responsabile della pianificazione strategica e degli acquisti del nostro assortimento maschile. Ti aspetta un incarico di grande responsabilità in un settore dinamico con un team di persone appassionate e competenti con i quali potrai condividere l‘interesse per la moda e per le vendite. Si richiede:
- Selezione e pianificazione della nostra gamma di prodotti per l’uomo - inserimento ordine e back office - Controllo degli obiettivi di bilancio - Supporto dei fornitori e gestione dei reclami - Vendita assistita e accoglienza Requisiti: - Passione per la moda - Competenze gestionali e organizzazione - Competenza nelle vendite - Esperienza in questo settore
Lavora con noi: Ti offriamo l‘opportunità di ricoprire un ruolo di grande responsabilità e di realizzare le tue idee e visioni fin dal primo giorno. Il nostro sistema gerarchico piatto e i nostri percorsi decisionali brevi permettono di lavorare in modo agile e diretto con i colleghi, che ogni giorno offrono, con passione e competenza, un‘esperienza di shopping unica ai nostri clienti. Abbiamo suscitato il tuo interesse? Saremo lieti di ricevere la tua candidatura dettagliata: Monika Fischnaller firstname.lastname@example.org
PHILIPP PLEIN NO LIMIT$
BEAUTY BUSINESS BY ANNALISA BETTI
INSIDE & OUTSIDE
SOMETIMES WHAT WE SEE IS AS IMPORTANT AS WHAT WE SMELL
Beauty packaging looks to the future, with one eye on tradition. Either way, it must please the senses
ooks are important. No one knows this better than designers in the beauty sector, who have the ability to turn what the customer wants to touch, smell, and collect into reality - without yet being aware of it. Those who love clean lines and elemental design will have already seen the new 1968 perfume by Carlo Pignatelli, starting from the packaging: the sobriety of black & white, the shiny and satin textures and the lettering create an orderly whole that communicates balance. The same goes for the new olfactory creation of Porsche Design 180 Blue, an original contemporary fougère, whose bottle was certainly not created to be thrown away once the contents
are finished. Compact and functional, in satin aluminum, with an alternation of soft curves and perpendicular lines, it is already an object of desire. But to have it, you have to wait for April. Faithful to its trademark maximalism, Philipp Plein encloses the new No Limit$ fragrance in an imaginary Black card worth 1 trillion dollars: the access key to his unrepentant world, where the only value is ... money. On the other side of the spectrum, Primark’s capsule collection by Skinny Dip London instead marries the pastel tones and the soft shades of peach for a line of practical and delicious accessories and cosmetics, just what Millennials like. SD Beauty Design by Skinny Dip is on sale
ACQUA DI PARMA
CARLO PIGNATELLI 1968
exclusively by Primark worldwide. Acqua di Parma, Marvis and Acqua di Colonia 4711 successfully reproduce traditional motifs and are perfectly aligned with the Retro-futurism trend: an oxymoron only in appearance, which in reality takes the best from retro design and represents it with new techniques graphics, bright shades and contemporary materials. This is similar to what we find in the packaging of L’Eau d’Issey IGO by Issey Miyake, a new concept that pays homage to the world of design and innovation, through two-in-one ‘nomadic’ packaging: a practical format, consisting of a 60 ml bottle and a 20 ml cap. You can always carry it with you. Last but not least, sustainability. The new mantra is responsibility and, with this in mind, the Italian Tuttotondo sets a good example, offering a oneliter format of the new Shower Gel with Venetian Spritz. That is the good enough pretext to toast a new beginning and leave the negativity of the last few weeks behind us. ■
MARVIS EAU DE BOUCHE
GOING BACK TO ROOTS ACQUA DI COLONIA 4711
L’EAU D’ISSEY IGO
PRIMARK SKINNY DIP LONDON
PORSCHE DESIGN 180 BLUE COSMOPACK
COSMOPROF AND COSMOPACK RESCHEDULED FOR SEPTEMBER
A return to Nature is on the horizon, according to Beautystreams, the ultimate source for trend forecasting in cosmetics. In particular, themes related to the ancestral and almost mystical link between Man and Nature will take center stage in the most innovative packaging in the coming months, defined as “Pagan.” Prints and graphics will feature mysterious and fascinating landscapes, leaves and flowers dried by the passage of time and mystical symbols in black and white, sometimes deliberately blurred to emphasize their smoky component. All with a palette borrowed from the elements of the earth and the vegetable kingdom.
INTERPARFUMS REVISES THE OUTLOOK FOR 2020 The coronavirus has impacted Interparfums’ 2020 forecasts: it had expected net sales of more than $740 million, but now results are seen in line with 2019 at $713.5 million. The company does not rule out further revising its estimates, given the impossibility of assessing the real impact of the health emergency. (in the photo, Lanvin’s Éclat d’Arpège, one of the fragrances manufactured by Interparfums)
The 2020 edition of Cosmoprof has been rescheduled: it will be held in Bologna from September 3-7 with Cosmopack and Cosmo|Perfumery & Cosmetics from 3-6 and Cosmo|Hair Nail & Beauty Salon from 4-7. “The decision to further postpone the exhibitions, also based on evident prudential reasons related to the health emergency, is the result of a responsible dialogue with associations and institutions,” said Gianpiero Calzolari, president of BolognaFiere. The postponement of the 2020 edition, initially scheduled in March, was first announced on February 24: organizers had announced a move to June, but the evolution of the emergency made it necessary to further rethink the period of the event.
An alchemy of silk and pearls. The incandescent glamour of a Luxury Empire. Tastefulness, embroidered by a belle de jour. Rediscovering British colonial romance. Opulent silhouettes for a luxury inspired by individualism and the allure of models in second skins. International catwalks take us back to a classic elegance, eschewing the ubiquitous: women are confident, feminine and empowered.
BY ALBERTO CORRADO
new dream of elegance SAINT LAURENT
MEN’S PRE-FALL 2020
1 TOD’S 2 MARNI 3 RODARTE 4 VERSACE 5 MOSCHINO 6 HERMÈS 7 ERDEM 8 MIU MIU
1 PRADA 2 BOSS 3 BOTTEGA VENETA 4 PALM ANGELS 5 GIORGIO ARMANI 6 GABRIELE COLANGELO 7 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 8 JIL SANDER
MENâ€™S PRE-FALL 2020
1 ALBERTA FERRETTI 2 BALENCIAGA 3 BALMAIN 4 PHILIPP PLEIN 5 GILBERTO CALZOLARI 6 FRANKIE MORELLO 7 PORTS 1961 8 GCDS
1 MAX MARA 2 ERMANNO SCERVINO 3 DOLCE&GABBANA 4 CHLOÃ‰ 5 ROCHAS 6 SACAI 7 MICHAEL KORS 8 VICTORIA BECKHAM
MENâ€™S PRE-FALL 2020
1 GIVENCHY 2 MARC JACOBS 3 PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI 4 OFF WHITE 5 LANVIN 6 N 21 7 GUCCI 8 FENDI
Power Schmoozing 2
1 LOUIS VUITTON 2 MISSONI 3 ETRO 4 VALENTINO 5 ELISABETTA FRANCHI 6 DIOR 7 CELINE 8 BURBERRY
Relaxed fashion for the independent woman: this is the hallmark of the FW 20/21 season, set in a medley of associations and allusions. The “liquid” characteristics of movement and changeability crosscontaminate collections, through original stylistic choices. It’s all about finding the right formula for each woman. BY ALBERTO CORRADO
Sunset City Decisive and original metropolitan elegance manifests itself in creations that exclude pure and unique styles
1 BAGUTTA 2 ROSSO35 3 GALLOTTI 4 TELERIA ZED 5 ELEVENTY 6 SUPREMA 7 MACKAGE
1 MANILA GRACE 2 LARDINI 3 CLIPS 4 BEATRICE .B 5 CIVIDINI 6 LORENA ANTONIAZZI 7 MALO
Original interpretations for rigorously chic garments, suitable for any-timeof-day wear. 7 55
MEN’S PRE-FALL 2020
Bloom Boom Prints are illuminated by eyecatching colours, orchestrating a romantic techno symphony.
1 ATTIC AND BARN 2 PIANURASTUDIO 3 MINAVARA 4 KOCCA 5 MANUEL RITZ 6 VIA MASINI 80 7 OTTOD’AME 4 56
Wild Call The natural universe meets a feminine one, a triumph of reciprocity culminating in a new form of creativity.
1 KANGRA 2 MADAME BERWIRCH 3 16 R 4 OBLIQUE CREATIONS 5 ROSATI 6 ALANUI 7 XACUS
Fresh Bash MENâ€™S PRE-FALL 2020
Feminine elements combined with surprising details help bringing a festive mood to life.
1 HANITA 2 OOF WEAR 3 FINAMORE 4 TAGLIATORE 0205
5 CUSTO BARCELONA 6 CHIARA BONI LA PETITE ROBE 7 FRACOMINA
3 1 5
Rediscovered audacity expressed in modernist forms, for a material vision of the formal world.
1 KNIIT 2 TWINSET MILANO 3 CIGALAâ€™S 4 T_COAT 5 NENETTE 6 KAOS 7 ALPHA STUDIO 2
FALL-WINTER 2020/2021 @ WHITE MENâ€™S PRE-FALL 2020
Passion for details Collections that took White Milano by storm explore a universe rich in allure and poetry, through suggestive plays of patterns and weaves. Dream-like motifs, a thirst for anti-conformism and the search for a contemporary dimension all converge and culminate in an eclectic extravagance which architects an entirely new dress code. An artistic journey destined to transform the essence of craftsmanship into a message of fashion, to be worn with just the right dose of eccentricity. BY ALBERTO CORRADO
4 VITUSSI 5 NN COUTURE 6 PELLICO 7 LU REN CASHMERE
1 POMIKAKI 2 FILO TESSUTO BY ORANGE FIBER 3 EDWARD ACHOUR PARIS
6 DUCI. JEWELRY DI MARTINA CIACCIO 7 DES PETITS HAUTS 8 LAMILANESA MADE IN MILAN 9 SALVATORE SARDISCO
1 LOVAT&GREEN 2 MELÍP 3 PIN 1876 BY BOTTO GIUSEPPE 4 MARIELLA GENNARINO MAISON 5 ARISTIDE
ACCESSORIES FALL-WINTER 2020/2021
SWIFT ELEGANCE BY ALBERTO CORRADO
A tad suggestive yet well-designed elegance: sophisticated, concrete and determined. 1
1 MANILA GRACE 2 SERAPIAN MILANO 3 NENETTE 4 PACIOTTI 5 LANCEL 6 BORSALINO 7 SERGIO ROSSI 8 POLLINI
ACCESSORIES FALL-WINTER 2020/2021
Decorative exuberance traces the paradigm of a winter tale seduced by the duality of black&gold and blinded by metal sparkles and en noir.
1 GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI 2 FLAPPER GENEVIEVE XHAET 3 LARA BELLINI 4 FURLA 5 RODO 6 CASADEI 7 GIANNICO 8 SANTONI
THE AMERICAN DESIGNER WHO CONQUERED ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA (AND SARTORI) Thrust into the limelight after the collaboration with Zegna, Jerry Lorenzo cuts an unusual figure on the American fashion scene. Appreciated by celebrities for his elegant approach to streetwear, the Californian designer does not show his collections, does not follow the release calendar and is not looking for outside investors. He prefers to dance to his own drum, even if it’s risky at times 1
JERRY LORENZO FEAR OF GOD
BY CARLA MERCURIO
n the States he is a luxury streetwear icon beloved of celebrities and influencers; in Europe Jerry Lorenzo, aka Fear of God, is still a universe waiting to be widely discovered. It was the very Italian brand Ermenegildo Zegna that opened a window onto this world, when it presented a special collection at Paris Women’s Fashion Week created from the dialogue between Alessandro Sartori and the Californian designer. Not a capsule, but a complete collection where Zegna - the purveyor of tailoring par excellence - is contaminated with Lorenzo’s sophisticated leisurewear, to trace a new style paradigm with a possible incursion into womenswear. Jerry Lorenzo’s singular philosophy, far from the fashion world’s logic and timing, has won him plaudits from Virgil Abloh, Kanye West, Beyoncé and Alessandro Michele. Maybe it’s because of his career path, since he bypassed the famous fashion schools and style offices of big brands and instead came up through the streets of American cities, baseball fields and nights in dance clubs. Born in October 1977 in Sacramento, California, Lorenzo grew up following in the shoes of his father, a professional baseball player and later coach. After studying at Florida’s A&M University, he moved to Los Angeles, where he obtained an MBA from Loyola Marymount University. To pay for his studies, he worked in Diesel’s warehouses: “Maybe I wasn’t cool enough to be in the store,” he said later. But his redemption came when he was assigned a shift at the store, where in one shot managed to sell over $ 5,000 worth of merchandise (guaranteed promotion!). Leaving Diesel, Lorenzo started managing sponsorships for the LA Dodgers and then worked in marketing for a Chicago sports agency. Back in Los Angeles, in 2008 he began his successful party promotion gig, where he learned the importance of personal branding (his evenings were renamed JL Nights) and the secret arts of generating desire for an experience or for a product. His stint as party maestro gave him a large number of contacts with celebrities, athletes and influencers. But at a certain point he wanted more - especially after becoming a father. Without any specific training in the world of fashion, in 2013 Lorenzo decided to launch his Fear of God label. The collection was born with the aim of filling a void in his wardrobe and in general on the catwalks. It reinterprets American sports style, street and workwear by working it into pieces made of premium materials and with an
� Born in 1977 � MBA degree at Loyola Marymount University in Los Angeles
� Work experience ● Two years in the Diesel warehouse,
promoted to retail store ● Managed sponsorships for the LA Dodgers ● Worked in marketing for a sports agency in Chicago ● Became a renowned party promoter in LA ● Launched Fear of God in 2013 1. Models of the Fear of God exclusively for Ermenegildo Zegna collection 2. Jerry Lorenzo: a singular character, far from the logic and timing of the fashion world
emphasis on craftsmanship, in a successful attempt to blend elegance, practicality and heritage. An immediate success, so much so that Virgil Abloh summoned him to Atlantic City to share the collection with Kanye West. A lucky encounter, from which several projects were born, including a collaboration with the A.P.C. label, Yeezus tour merchandise and the Yeezy debut season. After the meeting with Kanye West, it was Justin Bieber’s turn in 2016, in search of a new look for his Purpose world tour. Then came Kendrick Lamar, for whom Lorenzo designed the suit worn during his Damn tour. The list of celebrities is long, and includes names like Michael B. Jordan, Ellen DeGeneres, Beyoncé and Jared Leto. Leto, despite his link with Gucci, was authorized to appear the campaign for Lorenzo’s sixth collection, because Alessandro Michele is a great admirer of Fear of God. Since its founding in 2013, the brand has doubled its turnover year after year without any outside investment. Jerry Lorenzo’s path is guided by several rules: the brand does not follow the seasonal calendar, but launches the collections when they are ready; it does not show, and is not tied to five-year plans. “I will continue to make clothes as long as I have something to say,” said the designer. “I’m not interested in many of the things that drive the world of fashion. I’m interested in making the best garment that people could want, and in have the time to do it.” ■ 65
Q&A DI ANDREA BIGOZZI
“HELMUT NEWTON INSPIRED ME. AFTER THAT, IT WAS OFF TO NEW YORK, CARLA BRUNI, SCOUTING”
She is not a CEO who manages turnover of millions of euros, nor is she a creative director who sashays down the runway looking for applause. The energetic Sissy Vian uses her aesthetic sense to promote Italian fashion. Through her work as a stylist and fashion consultant she has created a network with the Who’s Who of the fashion world.
ou were about to graduate as a parliamentary interpreter, but in reality fashion was in your heart ... To earn money, in the beginning, I started to accept some jobs as a model and to frequent the Vogue circuit and someone, aware of my aesthetic sense, offered me some styling jobs, although I must admit that at the time, I was much more attracted to photography. Through your work, you met sacred, iconic pillars of the industry — from Helmut Newton to Franca Sozzani. From the supermodels of the 90s to the pioneers of Made in Italy. What did you learn and from whom ... The first few years in Conde Nast were pivotal. Vogue Italia was one of the reference publications and being part of that elite was a springboard for my career. I treasured the lessons of Franca Sozzani and Anna dello Russo for whom I was an assistant, taking advantage this experience in an international publishing house. With photographers, I understood how important it is to have a sense, a feeling. To excell together, you have to understand each other, get involved with each other. I have worked with all the most established names in fashion: from Peter Lindbergh to Mert and Marcus, from Paolo Roversi to Giovanni Gastel, but the one I am most attached to is Helmut Newton. When we met he was sort of a sacred monster and I was only DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE E A.D. Marc Sondermann (email@example.com) CAPOSERVIZIO Alessandra Bigotta (firstname.lastname@example.org) REDAZIONE Andrea Bigozzi (email@example.com) Elisabetta Fabbri (firstname.lastname@example.org) Carla Mercurio (email@example.com) Angela Tovazzi (firstname.lastname@example.org) ENGLISH EDITORS Sofia Celeste, Jennifer Clark REALIZZAZIONE GRAFICA Nadia Blasevich (email@example.com) Carlo Maraschi (firstname.lastname@example.org) FASHION EDITOR Alberto Corrado (email@example.com) COLLABORATORI Mariella Barnaba, Annalisa Betti, Cristiana Bonzi PUBBLICITÀ E PROMOZIONE Barbara Sertorini (firstname.lastname@example.org) Laura Pianazza (email@example.com)
25 years old and with little experience, but he was equally interested in my point of view. He said I was a visionary. Among the supermodels, I think Carla Bruni has always been I AM PROUD TO of a higher level. We had a good HAVE SUPPORTED time together, we have also had to THE WORK OF share a hotel room. Others like GiNEWCOMERS LIKE sele are super. When we took her to GIAMBATTISTA Milan to walk the runway at Alberta Ferretti and Philosophy she was VALLI, RICCARDO still semi unknown. TISCI, FRANCESCO Is there room for young people toVEZZOLI. day? Can you give us some emerhappen in the world of fashion when in the ging names to keep an eye on? 90s, I decided to leave my place in Condè No, names would not do: there are many Nast and start a freelance career, an very good ones out there: designers, photounusual choice at the time. It then turned graphers, artists and stylists. I have always out to be in harmony with the internatiohad faith in the young, capable of great renalization of the brands and globalization, volutions. I am proud to have supported the which beckoned new professional figures. work of newcomers such as Giambattista Was being Italian in a global market a Valli, Riccardo Tisci and Francesco Vezzoli. handicap? They were generous in turn with me when In general, yes, and I’m sorry because it success came, but it doesn’t happen with is often the Italians who do not trust us, everyone. Even in fashion shows I am newho deem us provincial. Yet we are capaver afraid to choose new faces and to work ble of producing quality. Americans are alongside the models of the moment: I like well aware and they are not afraid to give a heterogeneous cast. us an opportunity. That is why I love New In addition to discovering new talents, what York so much. I was in love with that city. It do you think is your unique flair? contributed to my training and success. ■ Perhaps in understanding what was going to SENIOR DIGITAL ADVISOR Stefania Navaretti (firstname.lastname@example.org) SPECIAL PROJECTS Matteo Ferrante Veneziani (email@example.com) ASSISTENTE DI DIREZIONE / UFFICIO TRAFFICO Valentina Capra (firstname.lastname@example.org) AMMINISTRAZIONE Cristina Damiano (email@example.com) Abbonamento annuale 199,00 e (quindicinale) c/c postale n. 16879207 È possibile richiedere gratuitamente la rettifica o la cancellazione scrivendo a: Edizioni Ecomarket Spa - servizio abbonamenti Piazza Pio XI 1 - 20123 Milano Numeri Arretrati: 16,00 e cad L’editore garantisce che i dati forniti dai sottoscrittori degli abbonamenti vengono utilizzati esclusivamente per l’invio della pubblicazione come quelli relativi agli invii in omaggio non vengono ceduti a terzi per alcun motivo. Garanzia di riservatezza per gli abbonati in ottemperanza al D. Lgs. n.196/2003 (tutela dati personali)
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