Explorer Magazine - Polar Special - UK by Explore!

Polar Explorer

Out of This World

A Trip of a Lifetime ± Endurance: A True Story Behind the Lens: How to Capture the Magic

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We’re excited to introduce our first-ever Polar edition of The Explorer Magazine, bringing you stories, encounters, discoveries and inspiration from Antarctica and the Arctic. An expedition to one of the Poles is the pinnacle of exploration, and likely the biggest adventure you’ll ever take. We’ve brought together some of our top polar experts and partners to help spark ideas and inform your trips.

In this special issue of the Polar Explorer, you’ll hear from the fascinating Saunders Carmichael-Brown about the discovery of Shackleton’s ill-fated Endurance, environmentalist Matthew Mulrennan about his life’s work in researching and proving the existence of the colossal squid, and crew member Daniel Stewart about what life on board is really like.

If these stories start you thinking about your own polar expedition, then our team of enthusiastic polar experts love nothing more than discussing the Poles and can advise which destination, trip or ship might suit you best.

The unique experience of a polar expedition will never cease to amaze, enthral and surprise. We asked the experts to talk about their stand-out memories.

MAGIC MOMENTS

Snorkelling in Port Lockroy, Antarctica

“Getting to go underwater to see the majesty of the icebergs underneath the surface and watching the penguins elegantly swimming underwater – I will never forget it.”

Andy Tait on the M/V Sylvia Earle

Finding a sea angel

“One of the most unexpected and exciting moments during my Citizen Science experience came when we collected a water sample during a phytoplankton trawl from a Zodiac. We returned to the ship to analyse the sample under a microscope, but when we looked more closely, we realized we didn’t need the microscope at all! The sample contained a sea angel –a rare and angelic-looking sea slug that’s found in the coldest of waters. I was in awe as the onboard marine biologist explained the fascinating biology of these creatures, from their unique method of moving to their feeding technique. These tiny, almost otherworldly creatures release a tentacle from their head to latch onto their prey and extract it from its shell. It was incredible to see how much life and complexity existed in something so small and elusive.”

Katie Harber on the M/V Greg Mortimer

Top and right

Citizen Science is important because it democratizes science, empowers individuals, and enables large-scale data collection, leading to enhanced scientific understanding, improved public engagement, and the potential for impactful policy and action on issues like environmental conservation

Above

Sea angels are a type of small, shell-less sea snail found in cold and temperate waters around the world and grow to no more than 2cm long

The unsung heroes

“I really enjoyed spending time with the expedition crew on board – so many of them have done incredible things like kayaking down peninsulas, writing books or over-wintering at Research stations in Antarctica, and unless relevant to their presentation talks, they don’t openly volunteer this information until they are probed. For me, they are the unsung heroes of the expedition, they work hard to deliver in terms of wildlife and landings, particularly when weather and ice conditions are tricky. Their passion for what they do and their absolute love of the regions that they work in, wholly shines through and is incredibly inspiring.”

Vanessa, Explore Polar Programme Manager

Witnessing everyday wildlife

“Whilst Zodiac cruising in Antarctica, I was lucky enough to witness a mother seal and her cub playing on an ice floe. The pup even tried to climb into our Zodiac!”

Craig Upshall on the M/V Albatros

Experiencing history

“One unforgettable moment for me was Zodiac cruising around a haunting 1915 shipwreck at Enterprise Island. The ship, carrying whale fat, had caught fire, forcing the captain to run it aground to save his crew. Miraculously, everyone survived. Drifting past its rusting remains, I felt transported back in time, imagining the drama that unfolded here over a century ago. It was a powerful reminder of the region’s storied past –harsh, unforgiving, yet endlessly fascinating.”

Eliza Sherlock on the M/V Sylvia Earle

The rusty shipwreck at Enterprise Island

A seal having a little rest on an ice floe in Spitsbergen

AN ADVENTURE IN

Robyn Clayton went to Antarctica in November 2024. Her experience was, in her own words, indescribable.

“I think the moments that will stay with me forever are those when I stood on the deck just staring out to sea or at the landscape, when, for a few seconds, I felt I had Antarctica to myself.”

I’ve been travelling with Explore for 25 years now and have enjoyed some wonderful trips along the way including Russia, Iceland and Egypt.

Last year, my work schedule was such that I couldn’t get away until late November, towards the start of the season for Antarctica. I have to confess, it wasn’t somewhere I had seriously considered visiting before. Rather it was a practical decision –where can I go when I can take annual leave? An Antarctic expedition? Excellent! I’d never done anything like that before.

When I told friends about my proposed trip, one of them was keen to come along, too. I generally travel alone, so this made a pleasant change. It was lovely to have someone to share the plans with, though work was so busy just before our departure that I had very little time to research. It was only when I was packing – and putting waterproofs and thermals in my bag – that the reality hit me. I was going to Antarctica – one of the most remote places on Earth. I was going to visit my seventh continent, and would soon be sailing past glaciers and seeing some remarkable wildlife!

We flew to Ushuaia in Argentina, the southernmost city in the world, to board our ship for the Classic Antarctica itinerary, which would take us to the South Shetland Islands and then onwards to the Antarctic Peninsula.

There was a palpable sense of excitement among our fellow passengers as we checked into our cabins.

A few had been before, but many were first-timers and on a trip of a lifetime – something they had saved up for and dreamt about doing for years.

We’d been warned about the Drake Passage, one of the most formidable bodies of water in the world, which lay between us and the South Shetlands.

Left Whales sightings can happen at any time of the day

Below Robyn in Antarctica

“It’s difficult to describe Antarctica, simply because you quickly run out of superlatives. As everyone who has ever visited has said, it is majestic, magnificent, spectacular, awesome. It is desolate and hostile to human life, yet teeming with thousands upon thousands of penguins and seals.”

We were told that the swells could easily reach 40 feet and that the ensuing sea sickness might confine many people to their beds. Luckily, I wasn’t affected, so was able to watch the waves.

I think what struck me most over the next few days was the vivacity of the colours – misty grey to vivid blue. Everything seemed amplified, saturated. The sunrises and sunsets were extraordinary.

As part of the preparation for our first landing – Snow Island, the ice-covered island in the South Shetlands –we had health and safety briefings that stressed how important it was to stick to the rules, not only to safeguard ourselves, but also the environment and animals. We were told how far from the animals we had to stand, how the threat of bird flu meant added precautions – no kneeling or sitting on the ground – and how we always had to keep our distance, even if penguins approached us. Penguins have right of way when they are walking along their penguin highways, and under no circumstances were we to block their way. I was very impressed with how carefully our landings were managed, from how meticulously all our clothes were disinfected before we left the ship, to how we were supervised on the islands.

Below left Robyn in the Zodiac on the way to her next Antarctica adventure

Below right Sunrises and sunsets at the Poles are unparalleled

© Robyn Clayton

After Snow Island we sailed on towards the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. Time onboard passed quickly. There were lectures, meals, times to socialise and, of course, opportunities to go out on deck to whale and bird-watch. We saw orcas, humpbacks and many birds. I don’t know my birds, but there was always someone there to ask.

“I think what struck me most in the next few days was the vivacity of the colours – misty grey to vivid blue. Everything seemed amplified, saturated.”

The expedition team were all so passionate and always available. They were all experts in their fields, be that marine life, conservation, geology, history or meteorology and seemed genuinely delighted to answer questions and to share their considerable knowledge. The crew on board the ship were also outstanding– making our stay comfortable and enjoyable. Meals, drinks, cabin care, services – all were excellent.

It’s difficult to describe Antarctica, simply because you quickly run out of superlatives. As everyone who has ever visited has said, it is majestic, magnificent, spectacular, awesome. It is desolate and hostile to human life, yet

teeming with thousands upon thousands of penguins and seals. There is wildlife everywhere, in the sea, on land, in the air.

As well as the landings, which offered a highly sensory experience – what with standing on the snow, and taking in the smells and sounds of the animals – there were also memorable times we spent on Zodiacs, cruising through ice floes, iceberg fields and around islands. It was absolutely breathtaking.

I think the moments that will stay with me forever are those when I stood on the deck just staring out to sea or at the landscape, when, for a few seconds, I felt I had Antarctica to myself. It brought my thoughts to a place of peace, contemplation and a deeper appreciation of our world and what really matters in life. I think differently now about social media interactions and about so many of the things we use as distractions. I think I have a better understanding of what I need to care about, and a more profound connection to nature.

Would you like to follow in Robyn’s footsteps? She did the Classic Antarctica trip. Find out more on explore.co.uk/ANK

Left One of Robyn’s wildlife snapshots Below The variety of shades of blue in Antarctica is just unimaginable

© Robyn Clayton

Once in a Lifetime

ANTARCTIC

A continent surrounded by oceans

In a region where people have never permanently settled, turquoise glaciers dominate the southernmost landscape. It’s a challenging place that offers bountiful natural rewards for bold explorers.

COMMON PLANTS

Only two flowering plants, plus many mosses, lichens and liverworts.

COMMON ANIMALS

Eight species of penguin, five seal species, microscopic invertebrate, snow petrel, south polar skua, albatross, Antarctic petrel, minke whale, orcas, humpback whale and blue whale.

FAMOUS EXPLORERS IN HISTORY

Sir Ernest Shackleton and his men, whose ship Endurance was crushed by ice and plummeted into the blue back in 1915 as they endeavoured to explore a new world.

Almost 12,500 miles separate the Arctic from the Antarctic, two “ends of the world” at opposite extremes of the Earth.

POLES

SOUTH

Meaning of the name

Opposite to the Arctic/to the North

No permanent human population. Over 60 Research stations where staff reside seasonally or annually.

JUNE

Discovered:

Located: 200 YEARS AGO

DECEMBER

Largest ice sheet:

5.4 MILLION SQUARE MILES

Discovered:

THOUSANDS OF YEARS AGO

People have lived in the Arctic for generations, including the Inuit, Chukchi, Sami, Yupik and Inupiat.

Hearing their perspective makes for a culturally enriching experience that only the Arctic can provide. Today more than 2 million people are living north of 60 degrees in modern settlements.

There are 8 countries within the Arctic region: Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, the US (Alaska), Canada, Denmark (Greenland) and Iceland.

Largest ice sheet:

GREENLAND, 0.66 MILLION SQUARE MILES

Average Annual temp

APART

Best time to visit

MAY–SEPTEMBER 0°C

ARCTIC

An ocean surrounded by continents

Winter solstice:

Summer solstice: DECEMBER 21

Located: JUNE 21

Meaning of the name

Near the Bear, Northern. A constellation of a Great Bear can be seen in the northern sky.

NORTH

The warmer pole, the Arctic has a long cultural history of human life at the northernmost edge. Wildflowers bejewel a rugged terrain, where polar bears roam.

COMMON PLANTS

Many small shrubs, grasses and sedges in the Arctic tundra.

COMMON ANIMALS

Musk ox, reindeer, caribou, Arctic foxes, Arctic hares, wolves, lemmings, voles, walrus, seals, 17 species of whale, narwhals, orca, puffins, an abundance of birdlife, and of course the mighty polar bear.

FAMOUS EXPLORERS IN HISTORY

Learn about explorers Nansen, Cook and Peary and their race to the North Pole.

One man, obsessed with all things Polar, travels to one of the most inhospitable places on the planet to find one of the hardest-to-reach shipwrecks in existence. A recipe for disaster or his greatest opportunity thus far? We spoke to broadcaster Saunders Carmichael-Brown.

Saunders Carmichael-Brown grew up with a fascination for wildlife and natural history. As a child, he would lose himself in the other worlds he saw on television, allowing his imagination to follow the presenters to Africa, to Asia, to the Polar regions, and to share their encounters with animals and with cultures so different to his own.

“I can’t explain where my fascination for wildernesses, and for the Arctic and Antarctic in particular, came from. We didn’t learn about Scott or Shackleton at school, and my parents didn’t have much of an interest in the Polar world, or in nature, but I remember thinking about Antarctica and all the animals that thrived in an environment that was so remote and inhospitable to humans. I think the inspiration came wholly from documentaries.”

Those early impressions stayed with him. The more he learnt about the early expeditions to the Arctic and Antarctic, the more he appreciated that each one was a feat of endurance, hope, resilience, determination. In 2022, he experienced that for himself, as part of the team that went in search of Shackleton’s ship, the Endurance, considered to be the hardest-to-reach shipwreck in existence.

ENDURANCE: A TRUE STORY.

Words –– Xenia Taliotis

Right:

“I’d dreamt of going to Antarctica ever since I was child. I couldn’t possibly have imagined the circumstances that would take me there...”

The vessel had sunk in 1915, after becoming ice-locked in the Weddell Sea a year after it had set sail for Antarctica. Shackleton and his 27-man crew abandoned ship and camped on the ice for five months before making it to Elephant Island in their lifeboats. From there, Shackleton and five of his men, including Tom Crean, set off for help. They sailed 800 miles in hurricane force winds and 50ft waves to South Georgia Island, but it was another four months, and several failed attempts, before he managed to rescue his remaining crew.

Though the story is often told through the prism of heroism, the survival of the whole crew, says CarmichaelBrown, was nothing short of miraculous. Certainly, Shackleton didn’t lose any of his crew, but as far as he sees it, the trip had been ill-planned, and far more dangerous than it needed to have been.

“I don’t think anyone can look at the story of Shackleton’s Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition (1914–1917) and not see it as rushed. The crew wasn’t ready; it had been a terrible year for ice, but they set off regardless. Shackleton kept all 27 of his men alive through great leadership, but some of the dangers they faced could have been avoided.”

The other thing he feels strongly about is that the support team – the Ross Sea party – which had to drop off supplies for the crew – is not often mentioned. “Some of the true heroes of that expedition are barely acknowledged. Three of the men from the Ross Sea, including Victor Hayward, a distant relative of mine – died.”

Carmichael-Brown’s Endurance 22 Expedition, organised by the Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust, comprised of an international team of 66 that included marine archaeologists, engineers, sea ice scientists, helicopter pilots, first-aiders, technicians, a meteorologist and oceanographer, in addition to the captain and crew.

He was one of six media representatives, led by history broadcaster, Dan Snow, and being invited to join the voyage, he says, was one of the most thrilling moments of his life. “I’d dreamt of going to Antarctica ever since I was a child. I couldn’t possible have imagined the circumstances that would take me there. The whole purpose of the voyage was to find the Endurance, document the expedition and broadcast the journey to the world via social media content. It was, without doubt, the greatest opportunity of my life thus far.” The reality of that exceeded anything he could have wished for.

He was chosen, he thinks, because they needed people who had a range of skills and expertise in diverse fields. By then, he was so many things – a digital content creator, a video and film-maker, a producer, a director, a presenter, a drone pilot. He says that for years, he had considered the way his mind and personality worked – that is needing to acquire one skillset after another without focusing on a specialism – a hindrance, a flaw. “I’d thought of myself as a ‘jack of all trades, master of none,’ but then someone told me the end of that proverb, which is ‘but oftentimes better than a master of one,’ and that helped me appreciate my abilities a bit more!”

In any case, they served him well, because there he was, on his way to Antarctica on a one-off trip to find the wreck, a trip that would quite likely never be repeated, not even if the Endurance22 Expedition had ended in failure.

They set sail from Cape Town in February 2022, on board the Agulhas II Icebreaker. The plan was to cross the Southern Ocean, and then to the Weddell Sea where the ship had sunk.

The journey was arduous – they sailed through 30ft waves that came crashing over the ship, they were tossed from one swell to the next and when they reached the Weddell, they experienced temperatures as low as -35°C with wind-chill.

There were other difficulties besides the rages of the sea, including trying to operate freezing and frozen equipment, and the mental and physical challenges, not only of the environment, but also of the expedition itself.

Below left Saunders and his film equipment

Below right

Found it! The stern of the Endurance wreck

“We all worked shifts, but in addition to that, the neverending days were also difficult. I didn’t appreciate how big a problem the absence of darkness would be, but it played havoc with my body, and as a side issue, also led to me –all of us in fact – working long beyond when we should have stopped.”

The landscape was disorientating – white, white, white, no contrast, no horizon, while the ice-conditions had the team at their mercy, sometimes drifting them several miles

“The whole purpose of the voyage was to find the Endurance, document the expedition and broadcast the journey to the world via social media content. It was, without doubt, the greatest opportunity of my life thus far.”

off course. They were surrounded by majestic ice-floes that were vast and so thick that their ship couldn’t break through them. The sound of them when they cracked was ethereal; the sight of them, day or night, mesmerising. Whenever he could, he would go on deck to “feel the true power of nature”.

The pressure of time, he says, was immense. “If the conditions didn’t turn in our favour, we would be unlikely to find the wreck. There was so much invested in this, not only money, but also hope and expectation and a desire to succeed. We were doing social media updates each day to millions of people across the world. They were all so engaged, waiting for that moment when we would find the Endurance. Thirty days in, we still had nothing. That’s when the energy seemed to drain away from the whole team. There was a collective low, a collective feeling that we might fail…”

Though the team was confident the shipwreck was somewhere in the search box marine archaeologist

Mensun Bound had identified, there was no guarantee they would be able to reach the box, nor explore enough of it within the rigid time frame they had been allocated.

“The odds,” says Carmichael-Brown, “were very much against us. There were so many variables – moving sea ice, icebergs, pack ice – all of which sometimes made it difficult for us to stay within reach of our search locations.”

And then it happened. On 5 March 2022, on the 100th anniversary of Shackleton’s funeral, their cameras picked up the first images of the Endurance, 3008m below the ice. After weeks and weeks in the most remote region of the world, when at times the closest humans to them were on a space station, they had fulfilled their mission. “We were overjoyed, of course, but the overwhelming feeling was of immense relief,” he says.

“The expedition was life-changing, not only because of what we achieved, but also because I have since become obsessed with Antarctica and the wildlife there. There were so many incredible moments, such as when the water channels we created as we cut through the ice, became a feeding oasis for Crabeater seals, minke whales, Adélie and Emperor penguins. I was already committed to sustainability and the protection of our planet, but after that first visit to Antarctica I became fanatical, and am now also a sustainability consultant for the media industry.”

Carmichael-Brown has since been back to Antarctica, sharing his knowledge and experience with passengers, and documenting each expedition for the company. Though he has travelled to so many other beautiful places, he says nowhere brings him as close to nature as the White Continent does. To humans it is remote, savage, merciless. To so many other species, it is home.

The journey of Saunders and the expedition team has been made into a film by National Geographic. It’s called ‘Endurance’ and is available to watch on Disney plus!

Right Agulhas II was both research station and home to the team that searched for the lost Endurance

Hot-off-thepress news and reviews for the coolest journeys on Earth.

Polar page-turners

We’ve gathered some of your top suggestions from the Four Corners Book Club into this fantastic collection of Polar mustreads.. Curated by our travel-loving, book community, these recommendations might just inspire your next icy escape –whether it’s through pages or places!

Our World

Away with the Penguins

HAZEL PRIOR

“This is a beautifully written, engaging and heartwarming book about defying people’s expectations, challenging yourself and how you’re never too old for an adventure. The exhilarating and incredible landscape of Antarctica is vividly brought to life and made me long for a polar adventure myself!”

Recommended by Emma

Mrs Chippy’s last Expedition

CAROLINE ALEXANDER

“When Sir Ernest Shackleton’s ship Endurance became trapped in the Antarctic ice, all 27 members of the crew were pushed to their limits of survival, including Mrs. Chippy, the ship’s cat. This book is a first-hand account of one of the greatest adventures in history – from a unique point of view.”

Recommended by Michelle

Are you looking for some more reading inspiration or have a recommendation of your own? Check out the Four Corners Book Club! explore.co.uk/bookclub

Thaw

DENNIS GLOVER

“A perfect mix of history, action and drama. I love to learn while I’m being entertained, and that’s exactly what this novel gave me.”

Recommended by Andrea

The Expedition

BEA UUSMA

“This is a story about a failed balloon expedition from Svalbard in the Arctic Circle to the North Pole, but also about the writer’s investigation into exactly what happened. It’s a beautifully written description of the author’s determination to find out the truth.”

Recommended by Rachel

Ice to meet you

NEW SHIPS

We’re very excited to announce that two new ships have joined the fleet of polar vessels we’re working with – M/V Ocean Albatros and M/V Ocean Victory. Both ships fit well into our portfolio of ships, implementing the Green Initiative Program and ensuring both absolute comfort and sustainability for all guests on board.

M/V OCEAN ALBATROS

The M/V Ocean Albatros offers 94 comfortable staterooms and suites, each with an unobstructed sea view, and most featuring private balconies. This ship combines luxury and exploration, providing a wellness area, two restaurants, and an open-deck dining facility. Guests can enjoy the unique panorama sauna and dedicated single cabins designed for solo travellers, ensuring comfort throughout their journey to the polar regions.

M/V OCEAN VICTORY

Stylishly built for Antarctic and Sub-Antarctic exploration, the M/V Ocean Victory is the ideal expedition vessel. Thanks to its sturdy construction and X-Bow® technology, it ensures exceptional stability in rough weather and a smoother ride on open seas. With 92 comfortable staterooms offering ocean views – most with balconies –the ship also features a wellness area, open-deck dining, and a modern lecture lounge. Part of a new generation of low-energy vessels, it runs on a mix of diesel and electro engines, all controlled electronically to optimize speed and fuel efficiency.

Recipe

Norwegian Tomatsild (pickled herring in tomato sauce)

An explosion of flavours in a jar, in Norway pickled herring graces almost every table at Christmas. Not only is it delicious, but herring has also played a vital role in the economy of Norway’s coastal cities.

Pickled herring:

4 spiced herring fillets

1 onion

2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped

2 bay leaves

Method

Tomato sauce:

50 ml sunflower oil

100 gr tomato purée

250 ml sugar

100 ml water

100 ml vinegar

Coarse pepper

1. Rinse and dry the spiced herring fillets. Cut the fillets into 1 cm pieces and finely slice the onion.

2. Heat the oil in a pot, add tomato purée while stirring and bring the tomato sauce to a boil. Remove from heat and add sugar. Stir until the sugar has dissolved.

3. Allow the sauce to cool before stirring in water and vinegar. Add pepper to taste.

4. Place herring, onion, laurel leaves, and dill in alternating layers inside a clean jar (you may need more than one!). Pour the tomato sauce into the jar and close the lid.

5. Leave the jar in the fridge overnight to allow the flavours to develop.

This pickled herring can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Enjoy on a fresh piece of (rye) bread with a thick spread of salted butter.

Whether you’re in the Arctic or Antarctica, you’ll be wowed by the wildlife. But as the seasons change, the natural world changes too. Here’s a month-by-month guide to some of the many wildlife highlights.

SEASONS OF CHANGE

January Penguin chicks in Antarctica

Most gentoo, Adelie and chinstrap chicks have hatched in January, and are enthusiastically chasing their parents around for food as they grow stronger. Visit the Antarctic Peninsula at this time of year for sightings of the cute and fluffy penguin chicks as you walk among their bustling colonies.

February

Birds in Antarctica

The skies are full in Antarctica and the Drake Passage in February as most seabird chicks have fledged. Watch skua skipping around among the penguins during your landings ashore, and spot albatross and petrel soaring just above the water from your ship, as you cruise the Peninsula.

March

Whales in Antarctica

It’s peak time for whales in Antarctica, with humpback, orca, minke and southern right whales all in the area for feeding. You’re likely to spot whales from your ship, and if you’re lucky, get up close to them in your Zodiac or kayak. Watch in awe as the whale dives deep, offering a glimpse of its trademark fluke, before it disappears, deep into the waters below.

April

In-between seasons

With the last trip to the Antarctic finishing earlier in the month, most of April is offseason for polar voyaging. There is too much sea ice in the Arctic still and it’s the start of winter in Antarctica, signalling the end of the tourist season.

May

Puffins off the UK coastline

There may not be expeditions departing to the White Continent, but there are still chances to see polar wildlife closer to home. Our Wild Scotland adventure will enable you to spot puffins in abundance around the coastline, as well as explore the cliffs at Hermaness National Nature Reserve, alive with kittiwake, shag, snipe, dunlin, golden plover and Arctic skua – making it one of Europe’s most diverse birdlife colonies.

June

Polar bears in the Arctic

Head to Svalbard in June for some of the best chances to see the polar bear, ‘King of the Arctic’. The polar bears are on the hunt, and your expert guides will do their best to track them and get you safely in place to watch these majestic creatures from your ship or Zodiac.

July

Walrus in Svalbard, Arctic

July in Svalbard sees large groups of walruses gather together in ‘haul-outs’ for safety, during the polar bear feeding season and they can be easily spotted along the coastline. Hundreds of these enormous mammals gathering together, each with long tusks and weighing up to two tonnes, is a sight to behold.

“The best time to see polar bears is from June to August.”

August

Humpback and beluga whales in the Northwest Passage, Arctic Cruise the fabled Northwest Passage and you’re in with a chance of seeing some of the most unique and unusual ocean mammals. Beluga whales can be seen in pods in inlets and shallow bays, and if you’re lucky, you may even spot the unicorn of the sea, the narwhal, at the edge of an ice floe.

September

Arctic fox in Greenland

With winter beginning to approach, September sees the Arctic fox’s brown coat start to turn into its luxurious and thick white coat. Look out for these curious furballs scurrying around the rocks and rubble of the Arctic tundra.

October

Start of the season

In the Arctic, the sea ice is too thick and there’s not enough daylight hours to operate tours, but ships start to arrive in Antarctica at the very end of the month or in early November.

November

Elephant seals in South Georgia

The breeding season for elephant seals peaks in mid-November in South Georgia, so beaches are busy with bulls loudly fighting for their harems of females, much smaller in size than the colossal males. You may also see some pups from those that bred earlier in the season.

December

Seals in Antarctica

Groups of crabeater or Weddell seals can often be spotted lazing on ice floes and fur seals play along the coastline. The more solitary leopard seal can sometimes be spotted in the water or on the ice.

What is everyday life like for a crew member of a polar expedition ship? Meet expedition leader Daniel Stavert who takes us through a typical day on board, from first light to lights out.

The first thing to remember is that for most people, a trip to Antarctica or the Arctic has been a long time in the planning, and it’s down to the crew to ensure that their much-anticipated voyage exceeds expectations. The second thing is that no two expeditions are the same.

An enormous amount of work happens months in advance. “We have our Plan As, our Plan Bs, even our Plan Cs,” says Daniel. “Our crew and expedition teams are very experienced, so we have contingencies to ensure our passengers have the best experience, even when the weather doesn’t go in our favour.”

An early start

Daniel’s days begin early, between 5-6am, one or two hours before the wake-up announcement goes out to rouse the passengers. His first duty is to meet the chief officer, the captain and the navigation crew. “We discuss the day before, and especially what happened overnight, since the ice and weather conditions determine what we can achieve that day. We will go out onto the bridge, and assess the situation from all perspectives, including any wildlife sightings and how we’ll manage any human/animal interactions. Of course, everyone wants to see a Polar bear, and from as close as possible, but if we see one, however far in the distance it is, we’ll never attempt a landing. They are very fast movers, so we won’t risk going onshore.”

Their assessments also include trying to anticipate what the ice and wind will do. Sometimes all is clear for a landing, but there needs to be certainty that they can

also get back. A drop in temperature, an increase in the wind chill factor can cause the ice to glue. The Zodiacs won’t go onshore unless the crew and the expedition teams decide they can land and leave safely.

With the morning’s schedule decided, it’s time for breakfast.

Waking up the ship

The wake-up announcement sounds at about 7am. This is the call for everyone on board to mobilise. “We’re not on a trip but an expedition, and everyone – whether passengers or staff – is part of that,” Daniel explains. “We work as a team; the success of our voyage depends on it. We’ll provide a quick update to outline our plans. If we’ve had to adjust their itinerary for the day, we’ll explain why. Weather and ice conditions govern everything we do. We want everyone to have an incredible voyage and key to that is never taking chances, while ensuring we maximise the opportunities for wildlife sightings and landings.”

Morning action

After breakfast, the passengers split into their groups, with each group doing different activities. Ensuring everything runs smoothly requires good delegation and communication skills. “Delegating is an important part of being an expedition leader,” says Daniel. “My team is highly skilled, with strengths in different areas. We have skiers, mountain climbers, divers, and I build my teams based on their abilities, and potential. Everyone is given their tasks for the day, whether that be driving the Zodiacs for landings, or taking people out on kayaks. There’s also the ongoing need to train new staff, so often I’ll roster a more junior member of staff, alongside someone far more experienced. Then there is communicating to the passengers the importance of adhering to the rules, not only to keep themselves and each other safe, but also in respect to the wildlife.”

Protecting the Polar environments begins on the ship. Before leaving, everyone goes to the boot room to change into their waterproofs and boots. Cross-contamination is a major concern, so everything – shoes, tripods, hiking sticks, clothes – must be thoroughly disinfected before and after each excursion.

“We follow very strict rules in relation to our interactions with the animals, though sticking to these isn’t always easy. Penguins, for example, are very curious and will approach humans. We urge people to keep their distance – at least 5m, and preferably 10 – even if that means walking away from them.”

“There are different protocols according to seasons,” Daniel explains. “In South Georgia, when the seals are mating, we give the males a 15m-wide birth. The air is full of testosterone, and we must be very careful how and where we walk. No talking, no sudden movements, and under no circumstances do we walk between a male and the sea, or between him and any of his females.”

Left Any excursions on Zodiacs are planned by Daniel and his team in minute detail

Right

Meet expedition leader Daniel Stavert

DAY... A LIFE IN THE

Time for lunch

At about midday, the first of the day’s excursions are done. People return to the ship, and everything goes in reverse. They enter the boot room, disinfect everything and then head up to the main areas. The information boards will have been updated with wildlife sightings, and with maps showing the journey.

“We all eat together, so there’s plenty of opportunity for people to chat and speak to the crew and expedition teams. There’s a huge wealth of knowledge to tap into, from experts on a particular species to history buffs.”

“My hope is that people leave more engaged, more committed to conservation than they already are.”

Afternoon adventure

After lunch it’s time to prepare for the second landing. “The weather in Antarctica can change quickly. One minute you are out on deck looking at calm water and clear blue sky, and then the next, ice is forming, and a mist has descended. Sometimes being a few minutes late to leave our position can mean we won’t be able to reach our next one until the next day.”

Winding down

Once everyone returns from their second landings of the day, everything has once again been cleaned, and all the Zodiacs are back on board, it’s time to relax. “There are talks, quizzes, drinks and dinner. People soon get to know each other. There’s wonderful camaraderie – a sharing of experiences, of photographs, of information.” Gradually, the day winds down, and people return to their cabins. But Daniel’s day isn’t yet finished.

Overnight

“I won’t go to my cabin immediately. I’ll go up on deck, have another conversation with the captain, discuss with the team what went right and, occasionally, what could’ve gone better.

Below Figuring out the

“I also take some time to contemplate and connect with the environment. I grew up in West Sydney, surrounded by concrete,” reflects Daniel. “I never knew such worlds existed, and even when I found out about them, I never considered they were for me, or that I would visit them. I remain in complete awe of our planet. No matter the number of penguins I’ve seen, or the number of expeditions I’ve done, my sense of wonder never, ever diminishes. One of the most remarkable sounds I have ever heard is a leopard seal singing from within an ice chamber. There is nothing I can compare it to.”

“I am never without my binoculars, but there’s a lot to be said for having nothing between you and the view. Even if I am only there on the deck for a few minutes, I am fully present.”

Daniel will finally retire to his cabin, but remains on duty, waiting lest a member of the crew comes to tell him that a Polar bear or a whale has been spotted. “Even if it’s at 2am, we always inform the passengers because this is often the highlight they have waited all their lives to see. Polar bears have incredibly sensitive hearing. If we make the announcement over the Tannoy, we might well scare the animal away, so we will go round the ship in-person, gently knocking on doors, telling people to move quietly to the deck.”

And beyond

For Daniel, the experience doesn’t finish at the end of an expedition. “My hope for each trip is that people go home feeling more engaged, more invested, and more committed to conservation than they already are. The purpose of our voyages is to provide our guests with an experience that acts as a catalyst for them to love, respect and advocate for the wildlife, nature and wildernesses on our beautiful, but vulnerable, planet.”

Left Daniel on the very right, with some of his expedition team members

best Zodiac routes and landing points requires years of experience

Freeze the Day!

More than just a journey, a polar expedition is a collection of once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Whether you’re camping under the stars, or diving into icy waters, these activities will make your voyage truly unforgettable. Which one will you try first?

1 CAMPING IN THE SNOW

Ever wondered what it’s like to sleep under the stars in one of the world’s most extreme environments? Polar camping lets you experience the silence and vastness of the frozen wilderness firsthand. With only a sleeping bag and the crisp polar air between you and the stars, it’s a surreal experience that connects you to the raw beauty like nothing else.

2 KAYAKING AMONG ICEBERGS

Paddle past towering icebergs, spot seals lounging on floating ice, and, if you’re lucky, witness a whale surfacing nearby. The stillness of the water, interrupted only by the dip of your paddle, makes for a peaceful yet exhilarating adventure you won’t forget.

3 TAKING THE POLAR PLUNGE

If you’re feeling brave, the legendary Polar Plunge is a rite of passage. Jumping into near-freezing waters might sound crazy, but the rush of adrenaline and the bragging rights are worth it!

4 HIKING IN A FROZEN WONDERLAND

Lace up your boots and explore these pristine, untouched landscapes on foot. Whether trekking across a glacier, hiking up a ridge for panoramic views, or wandering past penguin colonies, every step reveals something awe-inspiring. The crisp air, crunch of snow underfoot, and the feeling of being at the edge of the world make polar hikes a must-do.

“Sleep under the stars in one of the world’s most extreme environments”

SUPPORTING VITAL RESEARCH

Want to make your trip even more meaningful? Polar expeditions offer you the chance to participate in important Citizen Science projects. From collecting data on whale populations to measuring ice conditions, you can contribute to real scientific research. It’s an incredible way to deepen your connection to the environment and help protect these fragile regions for future explorers.

SQUID GAMES

By day, polar travellers look for crabeater seals, humpback whales and chinstrap penguins. By night, those joined by environmentalist Matthew Mulrennan engage in research that takes them to the bottom of the dark water. The hope? To catch a glimpse of the largest eye in the animal kingdom...

Here, Kolossal CEO Matthew explains how Explore travellers are helping to bring the secrets of a largely unknown seascape to the surface as they search for the bioluminescent glow of the elusive Colossal Squid.

Matthew, why marine science?

Curiosity got me into ocean science and conservation came as a result. Every scientist is just a grown-up child! I grew up in Pennsylvania, so had a long-distance relationship with the ocean. I’d go with my family every year to Cape May in New Jersey to fish, and it was catching my first fish that sparked my brain in a different way. It was a striped bass so for a little kid it felt so big. Most of our planet is deep sea, we just don’t know what’s out there and I became so intrigued by what’s left to discover. It feels to me when you put cameras under the water, you’re entering a whole other planet.

What has studying remote parts of the ocean taught you about our relationship with the environment?

Just in the space of my lifetime we’ve seen ocean ecosystems change dramatically. Some 90% of the heat from climate change is going into the ocean and 25% of the carbon dioxide that we create does too. It makes it more acidic, hotter and with less oxygen – all of which has a significant impact on animals and their habitat, food sources etc.

When did you learn about the Colossal Squid?

Back in 2007 a huge one was bought back to New Zealand. They pulled it up on to a fishing boat and froze it. I was obsessed. It can grow 10 to 12 metres long and it has the biggest eye in the animal kingdom. It has hooked tentacles, hooked arms and potentially can glow in the dark! It’s the largest invertebrate on the planet yet very little is known about it.

It was first discovered in the stomach of a sperm whale in 1925, but this giant squid has never been viewed in its natural habitat. It was only in the 1990s when people started fishing in Antarctica and the Southern Ocean that we began to learn more. Fishermen would bring in long lines and the big squid would grab on to Antarctic toothfish, taking big chunks out of them, using their hooks to hold on, all the way up. Researchers found that 1% of all fish coming up had been grabbed by Colossal Squid so we know they are present. We’ve tried to use toothfish as bait and used different lights to replicate bioluminescence in our studies, but we’ve been unlucky so far.

How is the search for the Colossal Squid different?

Our mission to find the Colossal Squid represents something fun, interesting and inspiring. I’ve never worked on a project where people have been rooting for me to accomplish the goal like this. Children have written me letters from all over the world! When I’ve done other things, like studying ocean certification or climate change, it doesn’t inspire the same intrigue.

Didn’t you find a squid of interest on an expedition?

We did see a glass squid that is from the same family. We’re just figuring out its features, such as the shape of its lance, the length of its tentacles and how far out its eyes are from its head. It’s one of three things: an undescribed species, a Galiteuthis glacialis, or a baby colossal squid! We don’t have many reference points – I’ve seen babies in a lab in Auckland, but we’ve never seen them swim. This certainly looks similar… but we just don’t know for sure. It’s a mystery squid!

How sure are you that they’re down there?

There are a lot of juveniles down there – you’ll find them in albatross stomachs and in the stomachs of seals. They’re being eaten, so they’re there, but it’s like a very high-tech game of hide and seek. And the Colossal Squid is winning!

Tell us about how teaming up with a tourism expedition ship is helping your search?

It’s hard to get to Antarctica and having the opportunity to go with a tourism vessel is a great option to explore these remote regions. Expeditions are supportive of scientists and Explore has been very good at encouraging conservation on its trips. Travelling in this way is lower carbon, has lower costs for everyone and with the right techniques you can still make some incredible discoveries.

We had to hook-up an entire deep sea research station on my recent expedition. It took a lot of work to build a crane and a system that could get out of the door. We were able to take young students to Antarctica who wouldn’t have had that opportunity. Most were next generation scientists –diverse and predominantly female, which was great. The biggest upside though is for the guests. They get to see deep sea science happening in real time!

What other kind of things get you excited?

The giant volcano sponges are cool. These are the oldest animals on the planet and they stay in one place their entire life, developing a whole system to repel bacteria. They’re more likely to save your life than any other animal – they have an important role in biomedical research into

Alzheimer’s and cancer. They were used in one of the first ever treatments for leukaemia. We’re just scratching the surface of what they can do for people.

When you go to the Antarctic, almost every species is endemic, you’ll never find them anywhere else. It’s a very different ecosystem to explore and that’s a marine scientist’s dream.

How can Explore travellers get involved?

Antarctica is like an iceberg and we’re trying to show that most of what happens is under water. We go down to see what’s below the ship, from the sea floor to the mid-water and up. Some guests will stay up late with us if we’re doing an all-night deployment, bringing us cookies and we all hang out watching the screen. They’re with us as we’re finding things! ‘Did you find the Squid yet’ is the most asked question! You see the guests’ eyes light up when I talk about the Colossal Squid or other Antarctic marine life and the incredible animals they’ve cruised over during the day. We show them footage on the way back via the Drake Passage.

It’s the exploration factor of not knowing what we’re going to find on any given day that’s magic. We have found things on these trips that are contributing to science. Guests are there when we’re freaking out, excited and yelling at the screen!

What are you doing to increase your chances of finding the Colossal Squid?

Did you know?

The Colossal Squid’s eyes are as large as a basketball (27cm in diameter)

They have 8 arms and 2 tentacles, the length of each arm is different

Their nemesis is the Antarctic Toothfish

They may be bigger than we know (the squid that has been discovered reached 495kg but based on beaks found inside sperm whales, they could be as heavy as 700kg)

As they grow, they sink

Their conservation status is assessed as ‘least concern’

Their eyes are thought to glow in the dark because their photophores contain symbiotic bacteria that produce light through a chemical reaction

It is thought their eyes can detect predator movement beyond 120m

If finding a giant squid is like landing on the moon, finding a Colossal Squid is like landing on Mars! Right now, we’re thinking of different ways of finding it, so bringing E-DNA scanners with us. My big dream is that the Colossal Squid’s eye, in its natural environment, will be on the front pages of all the magazines, with David Attenborough talking about it!

They are essentially deaf to high frequencies, so rely on visual detection

They have a toothed tongue

Their ink sac contains half a litre of ink

When they breed, the male injects sperm into the female’s arms. After that it’s a mystery!

Below Matt and a towed camera system that was custom made for being deployed repeatedly off a polar voyage vessel in Antarctica

Below right

On his search for Colossal Squid, Matt finds other elusive inhabitants. Like this Antarctic sunflower star aka ‘The Death Star’. With up to 50 arms this is one of the top predators on the seafloor in Antarctica and South Georgia Island

Make a difference

A polar voyage isn’t just about breathtaking landscapes –it’s a chance to contribute to real scientific research. By joining citizen science projects, you can help researchers study the changing environment.

STUDYING WEATHER PATTERNS

Ever wondered how weather is predicted in the world’s most extreme environments? By recording cloud cover, temperature, and sea conditions, you’ll provide crucial data for climate research. While satellites capture information from above the clouds, you’ll be the eyes on the ground, offering vital insights. Your observations help scientists improve weather models and better understand long-term climate trends in polar regions.

SAMPLING PHYTOPLANKTON

These tiny plant-like organisms might be small, but they play a massive role in the ocean’s ecosystem. By collecting water samples and analysing phytoplankton levels, you’ll help scientists study their role in carbon absorption and climate regulation.

TRACKING WHALES

Grab your camera! By photographing whale flukes – each individual one is unique and identifiable, much like human fingerprints – and recording their locations, you’ll assist scientists in tracking migration patterns and population health. Who knows, you might even discover a new whale and have the chance to name it!

MONITORING SEABIRD POPULATIONS

Keep an eye on the sky! Seabirds are key indicators of ocean health, and by recording sightings, you’ll help researchers track species distribution and population changes. Whether it’s an albatross soaring overhead or a penguin colony onshore, every sighting contributes to important conservation efforts.

DETECTING MICROPLASTICS

Microplastics are now a growing problem, even in the world’s most remote corners. By filtering seawater samples, you’ll assist researchers in detecting plastic pollution in polar waters. This crucial data helps raise awareness and drives efforts to find solutions, protecting these delicate ecosystems from further harm.

AN EXTRAORDINARY JOURNEY

The history of women in polar research is a story of movement from exclusion toward inclusion, led by inspiring women who broke one ‘ice ceiling’ after another

Polar expeditions were made by men, right? Wrong. History tells us women featured on board significant ships as far back as the 18th century. Xenia Taliotis charts the progress of today’s female explorers and is inextricably changed by her own polar adventure.

“

I“I had been dreaming about the top and bottom of the world since I was a young girl,” said Ann Bancroft, one of the world’s leading Polar explorers, in an interview she gave to CNN some years ago. “When I went on my first expedition in 1986 –dogsledding 1,600km from the Northwest Territories in Canada to the North Pole – I was the only woman on the trip. Even the dogs – all 49 of them – were male.”

Completing that expedition made Bancroft the first known woman in history to cross the ice to the North Pole. Later, she led the first American women’s east to west crossing of Greenland and crossed the South Pole on skis, which earnt her the distinction of being the first woman to cross the ice to both Poles. In 2001, she and Liv Arnesen became the first women to sail and ski across Antarctica.

Bancroft’s hard-won, long-anticipated polar achievements made her a role-model not only for women explorers, but also for others who had parked their dreams and who felt inspired to dust them off after seeing her and Arnesen in Antarctica. “Women from all over the world were messaging us and saying how excited they were to see us in that harsh environment. They realised that perhaps it wasn’t too late for them to do something they had always wanted to do. They gained courage from what we had done.”

Where Bancroft had gone, other female explorers followed, finding their own ways to blaze new trails. In 2007, Rosie Stancer attempted one of the toughest challenges in the world, when she sought to reach the northernmost point on Earth. Over 84 days, she skied, swam, walked and climbed solo in conditions that are now acknowledged as the worst on record – losing three toes to gangrene – before realising that to continue would put her and the pilots who were to pick her up at the North Pole in enormous danger. She aborted her mission with just 89 nautical miles to go to her destination but remains the world record holder for having come closest to reaching the Pole than any other woman.

Five years after that, Felicity Aston became the first woman to ski solo across Antarctica without help from machines or kites, describing the experience as the “biggest privilege of her life,” something akin to a pilgrimage.

Modern Day Heroines

Preet Chandri

British Army physiotherapist ‘Polar Preet’ Chandi has traversed one of the most unforgiving landscapes of the world solo, at one point pulling her 75kg sled 700 miles in 31 days! She was the first woman of colour to complete a solo expedition across Antarctica.

Sylvia Earle

American explorer, marine biologist and oceanographer Sylvia Earle has dedicated her life to learning about our oceans and the threats they face. She works as an author, lecturer, field research scientist, government official and director of a number of organisations that share her desire to protect our waters. Sylvia even had a ship named in her honour.

Barbara Hillary

Barbara Hillary made history at 75, becoming the first black woman to step foot on the North Pole. Five years later, the tenacious adventurer became the first African American woman to stand on the South Pole, an achievement made possible by her determination to not only see the extreme wildernesses of the world, but to share the lessons she learnt along the way.

Most recently, Preet Chandri set a new world record for the longest solo and unsupported expedition by a woman when she pulled her 90kg sled over 40 days and 700 miles to reach the South Pole.

‘The most powerful motivator was thinking of all those people who had underestimated me’

Felicity Aston

In 2019, I understood what Aston meant when she described exploring Antarctica as an enormous privilege on my own trip to the White Continent. I remember looking through my cabin’s window and seeing a reality that surpassed what my subconscious had created in dreams. Ahead of me lay Antarctica. Between us rose an iceberg – a huge, ethereal, ice-blue presence that rose out of black waters. It was one of the most beautiful sights I had ever seen, its mesmerising blueness the result of nature’s alchemy that, over millennia, had compacted the snow and ice on glaciers to such a density that all the long wavelength colours had been absorbed, and only the short-wave aquamarines were reflected.

I had sailed there in comfort from Ushuaia, Argentina, the world’s southern-most city – known as the “fin del mundo,” or the end of the world. To get there, involved crossing the most treacherous body of water on Earth – the Drake Passage. This volatile, Jekyll and Hyde channel, where the Atlantic, Pacific and Southern Oceans collide, shows occasional benevolence – under the guise of Drake Lake –but more often than not, it rages as the Drake Shake. On board, the sick bags that lined the corridors in preparation were soon used as the ship was thrown from one swell to the next. So many people were confined to

‘Women from all over the world were messaging us and saying how excited they were to see us in that harsh environment. They realised that perhaps it wasn’t too late for them to do something they had always wanted to do.’

Ann Bancroft

their cabins by motion sickness that the restaurant and bars were largely deserted, occupied only by those who, like me, have sea in their blood, or less poetically, legs as solid as an anchor.

By next morning, we had crossed the Antarctic Convergence. The day dawned infinite and blue, with ice flow gardens stretching across calm waters. After having our clothes vacuumed and our boots disinfected to avoid contaminating the island, we boarded our Zodiacs and chopped past leopard, fur and crabeater seals that were lumbering down on ice floes and penguins that were porpoising in formation, before disembarking in small groups for strictly timed explorations of Danco Island.

There we were surrounded by gentoo penguins feeding their chicks and I watched as they made their slow, arduous climb along their highways from the water to their colonies. Head down against the blizzard, walled in by snow, it was climb or die. They walked on. They fell. They got up. They climbed. I admired their resilience, determination and perseverance.

We sailed on to Antarctica itself, as opposed to its islands, and as I stepped on to its frozen mass, I felt the weight of its isolation. I took enough steps away from my group to experience a literal and metaphoric stillness. Looking into that eternal white, I saw the ‘void space’ that explorer Ernest Shackleton wrote about, and got a tiny hint of the disorientation that a landscape devoid of trees, paths and markers to give perspective and bearing, can create.

With my back to my shipmates, I imagined myself facing the elemental force of Antarctica as part of an expedition, or even alone, as more recent Polar explorers have done. How did they cope in that place that tests and rewards the body and spirit in equal measure, and pushed so many to a point beyond what could possibly be endured?

For Felicity Aston, one of the motivators to keep going, was wanting to prove all those who had ever doubted her wrong, as she explained in a feature she wrote for The Guardian: “I’d think about how I had to get up else I wouldn’t finish. I’d think about everyone who was supporting me. But the most powerful motivator was thinking of all those people who had underestimated me or put me down – I didn’t want them to be right. And so, I’d get the strength to carry on, to get up and go.”

Ann Bancroft used her expeditions to educate, inspire and help girls and young women “to find their voice and potential in whatever they do”. She set up the Ann Bancroft Foundation, she says, to provide grants and support to girls to live their dreams and “imagine something bigger.”

My own trip to the White Continent taught me humility. It put me in my infinitesimal place and showed me a world that was so beyond my imagination. I hope I will never forget the surge of emotion that swept through my body when I saw a whale breach, or blow; when I watched those penguins struggle up their highway or lower their head against the wind. I hope I will never forget how astonished and awed I was by the sheer beauty of Antarctica’s nature. And in equal measure, I hope one day to return to see it all again.

Xenia Taliotis

Editor and writer Xenia Taliotis contributes to numerous publications, in the UK and abroad. Her writing appears regularly in The Telegraph, The Times, i News, Women’s Health, and Breathe.

Above Women in most countries remained barred from participating in ‘official’ polar expeditions until the mid-20th century: either directly through institutional policies, or indirectly through lack of access to prerequisite training and credentials

Above right Antarctica’s extreme cold, dryness and high winds make it one of our planet’s most hostile environments for life

BEHIND THE LENS SCOTT PORTELLI:

Award-winning photographer, and one of Explore’s Polar Voyage specialists, Scott Portelli captures Polar wildlife at its most raw, its most wild and its most vulnerable. Here he gives his top tips on securing the best shots when you are photographing wildlife.

Take

your time

The best advice I can give is to be patient, even when you’ve spotted a blue whale and you know it might breach at any second. The instant reaction is to grab your camera and start clicking, but you know what? If you rush, you’ll probably lose the shot. The best opportunities come when you wait for the action, rather than chase it. It depends on the environment, of course, but if circumstances allow, sit down, stay calm and enjoy what’s going on. Remain alert to how the animals are moving, and what is going on. Something amazing often happens when you least expect it, but at least if you’re primed and set, you’ve a fair chance of capturing it.

Try to plan your shot

You are on your cruise for several days. Of course, you won’t see the same scene twice, but you’ll get a feel for the seascapes and landmasses. Try to plan your scenario and always check the settings on your camera. Lighting is key, and getting that right is an art in itself. Remember, the photographers on board are there to help you, so please do ask for their advice.

Do your homework

Even a little knowledge gives you a head start, so do some research on the animals you hope to see. By having some understanding of their behaviour, habits, movements, you might just get yourself into a better position to anticipate what they’ll do next… and to capture it on film.

Look after your equipment

Extreme conditions, such as snow, rain, moisture, very high or low temperatures, affect your gear. Develop good habits from the start. Wipe down the lenses, check for dust specs on sensors, and always, always chose your camera bag to prevent dust, water, snow – anything – getting inside. When you’re shooting in harsh conditions, avoid changing lenses.

Get used to new equipment before you travel

If you know what you’re hoping to shoot, or are in an environment where the scenery is fairly consistent, then you can be quite specific in your lens choice or arrange to share with someone you’re travelling with. I’d advise trying out new kit before you travel – you don’t want to be testing things in the field. I mostly travel with several telephoto lenses, including two macros, and four others with various apertures and focal lengths.

Take a tripod

I always take one with me, even though I know I might only use it once. It can be a hassle travelling with it, but the effort often pays off. Mobile phone-users – this doesn’t rule you out. A small tripod will stabilise your phone and minimise the blurring when shooting from a ship or boat. If you don’t have one, try to hold your phone with both hands to help with stability. Other accessories for mobiles include clip-on lenses that can achieve wide-angle or fish-eye effects. Try to avoid zooming in as this reduces image quality.

Aim for perfection but don’t expect it

Everyone has disasters. My most memorable ones have happened underwater. Once I forgot to take the lens cap off – and didn’t realise until I was submerged. Another time, I was in the Falklands photographing baby elephant seals, and two grabbed my legs. They didn’t have teeth, because they were so young, but their hold was really tight regardless. I was floating upside down with these two creatures attached to my legs. It wasn’t a disaster… but it could have been.

Enjoy your environment with your own eyes

Of course, you want those incredible photographs, but every day will bring you something new, something amazing, something you might never see again. Travelling to the Polar regions, or indeed, to any wilderness, is an immense privilege. Give yourself time to simply be, and to appreciate. There are times when you won’t get that shot, or when the animal you most want to see, be

it a blue whale or a gorilla, doesn’t show up, and that’s the same for everyone – for professionals and novices alike. The most important thing is to savour the moment, to enjoy nature. There is always something to see and to marvel at.

Respect the animals

You are on their terrain, and you are their guest. Always follow ethical practice when working with wildlife, especially in vulnerable environments and habitats. My mantra is ‘take only photos and leave only footprints’. It’s essential to minimise the impact our presence has on the wildlife. I see myself as an ambassador for these places, advocating for them, protecting them and educating others in how to do the same.

In Antarctica and the Arctic we can do this in a few simple ways.

Stick to the recommended distances when taking photographs of wildlife. Do not intrude on the animals’ personal space with selfie sticks or long lenses.

Let the interactions happen on the wildlife’s terms.

Do your research so that you have some insight into the animals’ behaviour, so that you have an awareness of when your presence might be stressing them.

Are you looking for a detailed camera equipment packing list? We’ve got you covered. Go to explore.co.uk/photography-guide

Left Scott taking pictures of penguins, making sure he sticks to the recommended distance

Right One of Scott’s shots –a polar bear and cubs, seen in Storøya, Svalbard

More to Explore!

Going to the edge of the world is a big deal – it’s a long way, and an epic adventure! If you’re going so far, why not make the most of the journey by combining your icy expedition with a contrasting experience – by combining trips, or by tagging on a tour adventure. Here are a few of our customers’ favourite options.

Antarctica + Argentina, Bolivia and Chile

For the trip of a lifetime, add on a fortnight exploring the Best of Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. The red rocks of northern Argentina, vibrant desert plateaus of Chile’s Atacama and lunar landscapes of Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni contrast beautifully with the magnificent frozen desert of Antarctica.

Antarctica + Easter Island

Extend your expedition with two full days on Easter Island, exploring the ‘ahu’ (ceremonial platforms) on which the famous Moai heads stand, and the volcanic crater of Rano Raraku, the quarry from which the heads were originally chiselled.

This mesmerising and atmospheric location looks different at every time of day and in every light.

Antarctica + Iguazu Falls

A mind-boggling cascade of 275 interconnected falls hurtle over cliffs into the three-kilometre-wide amphitheatre

The park that surrounds the Falls is itself a World Heritage Site, and a paradise for nature lovers with over 2,000 plant species and more than 400 different birds recorded here. Fly via Buenos Aires and witness the breathtaking beauty of the Iguazu Falls from both Brazilian and Argentinian sides.

Arctic + Iceland

A short break in the heart of Iceland’s Golden Circle is a perfect polar add-on. Explore the very best of Iceland’s dramatic landscapes from the thundering Gullfoss waterfall to the black basalt cliffs at Vik I Myrdal, and stay up in hope of glimpsing the incredible Aurora Borealis lighting up the night sky.

Arctic + Scandinavia

Spend ten blissful days exploring the diverse landscapes of Scandinavia, from the scenic fjords of Norway to the cultural treasures of Denmark and Sweden. Stroll through the historic streets of Bergen, see Voss, Norway’s adventure capital, and discover the rich history of Stockholm. The Discover Scandinavia tour is graded as moderate as it covers a lot of ground, but the longest journeys are taken by train – a relaxing way to travel and perfect for taking in the stunning Scandinavian scenery.

Arctic + Oslo

Tag a couple of nights in Oslo onto your Arctic expedition and you won’t be disappointed. Art, architecture, food and culture all come together here for an ideal minibreak. Polar nerds will enjoy the Fram Museum, where you can board the original polar ship Fram – the strongest wooden ship ever built, which still holds the records for sailing farthest north and farthest south.