Bon Appetit
Zélie Pollon
Mexican Mole for a Holiday Feast
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fter living in Mexico, I became accustomed to the country’s endless celebrations and rich, bountiful meals that often included mole (pronounced moe-lay) — a highly-regarded sauce known as Mexico’s national dish. Now, when I set out to make a festive holiday meal, mole’s chocolatey aroma and spicy flavor immediately come to mind. I pile my kitchen counter high with chiles and make a variation on the rich, savory sauce, a standard for any big fiesta (party), particularly in the regions of Puebla or Oaxaca. Made with chile peppers and a dash of chocolate, this Mesoamerican sauce is versatile and can be used with many kinds of meat and poultry. Its rich texture and strong flavors most often announce a special occasion. That said, mole has traversed the globe; it has become so popular that it is now found in restaurants and homes around the world. One origin story for mole credits this dish’s creation to a convent in Puebla that needed to hastily prepare a dish for a visiting archbishop. The nuns were poor and, after praying, they threw together what little they had: some chiles, nuts, old bread, and a bit of chocolate. They poured it over a turkey — and as the legend goes, the archbishop loved it. When asked what it was called, the nun replied that it was “a mole,” meaning a mix of things. Oaxaca, Mexico, also stakes a claim to its creation, and yet others claim its roots go back much further and belong to indigenous cultures. Each region in Mexico has its own variation (like mole negro, mole poblano, and Colorado, to name a few), some quite simple and others using up to 100 ingredients. Recipes are passed down in families from generation to generation, so moles can differ even within a region. The key ingredient of mole is the chile (ancho, pasilla, mulato, or chipotle), each with a distinct taste. Regardless of the chile, the sauce is rich and warm and adds a wonderful spice to any holiday meal. Try this recipe for your next family celebration.
84 | Everywhere Magazine October/November 2019
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3 ancho chiles with stems and seeds removed 3 guajillo chiles with stems and seeds removed 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth, boiled 6 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons white sesame seeds 4 medium tomatoes, quartered 1 tablespoon Mexican oregano 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup lightly-packed brown sugar 1 750 ml bottle red wine 2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped 4 ounces queso fresco or other soft, white cheese like mild Feta or Monterey Jack, crumbled ½ cup fresh cilantro or parsley, chopped
Soak the ancho and guajillo chiles in the hot chicken broth for 30 minutes with a plate on top of the chiles to makes sure they are submerged in the broth. While the chiles are soaking, roast the garlic and sesame seeds in a pan with hot oil until lightly browned. In a blender, combine the chiles, garlic, sesame seeds, and chicken broth and blend. Add the tomatoes, oregano, cinnamon, and salt and blend again. Once combined, transfer the mixture to a large simmer pan. Add the brown sugar and red wine and stir, then simmer on low for an hour. Stir in chocolate, and add more seasoning to taste. Pour the mole over grilled chicken breast, baked turkey, or stewed meat, then sprinkle with queso fresco and cilantro, and serve with rice. Consider warming some additional corn or flour tortillas and enjoying with a shot of good tequila. Buen provecho! This recipe was adapted from Mexican Flavors, a cookbook by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison.
