February/March 2019

FEBRUARY/MARCH | 2019

every wh. ere FAMILY ADVENTURE

Cabin

FEVER ENJOY THE SNOW OR ESCAPE IT

YURT AMBITIONS

AU PAIR LIFE

TASTE OF CADIZ, SPAIN

WE HAVE SOME OF THE FRIENDLIEST LOCALS YOU’LL EVER MEET. ( THAT GOES FOR OUR PEOPLE TOO. )

Stingray City, Grand Cayman

visitcaymanislands.com

CO N T E N T S FEBRUARY/MARCH 2019

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Feature Yurt Ambitions Layover Iceland

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Interview Project Trek Life Feature Taste of Cádiz

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73 Outside the Classroom Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park

Up & Coming

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Upcoming Events — What’s happening when

Insider’s Guide Grand Cayman

Gear Up — Our favorite gear for helping kids sleep on the go Travel Trends — Clothing companies committed to their ecoconscious customers

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Sketches — Artwork from the kids

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Little Heroes — The Tuscano twins

Choose Your Own Adventure French Houseboat Cruise

Features

Connect

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Navigation 10 Cool Places to Watch the Northern Lights

Yurt Ambitions — Planning for winter camping adventures Au Pair Life — Is this alternative childcare right for you and your family?

Taste of Cádiz — Eat your way through this town in southern Spain with your kids

Editor’s Note — Welcome to Everywhere Magazine Op/Ed — Why should we care about preserving what we have?

Interview — The Axness family’s mobile lifestyle Beyond Entertainment — The tsunami that changed the way we think about travel Beat the Rat Race — Advice from one woman who gave up six figures Just Go — Tips for navigating travel with food allergies Essay — Not everyone wants to travel the world Cultural Consideration — The ins and outs of visiting a Mongolian ger

Tips & Tricks

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Cultural Consideration Mongolian Ger

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Navigation — Passport application tips, where to see the northern lights, and fun winter outdoor activities Layover — What to see in an afternoon, a day, and a week Skillset — Build an igloo, teach a child to ski, and get there safely Insider’s Guide — Where to go in Grand Cayman Choose Your Own Adventure — Cruising the Canal du Midi in France Bon Appetit — Cruise food, Dutch oven chili and cornbread, and Hawaiian Haupia Outside the Classroom — Get up close with volcanoes in Hawai‘i In the Field — Learn about lava

Feature Au Pair Life

Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

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WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE

WINTER

ESCAPE?

Editor-in-Chief Mandy Mooneyham Publisher Ali Nelson

Operations Manager Kara Rodean

Marketing Director Amanda Bird

Melanie Selvey

Bend, Oregon is truly a winter-sports wonderland.

It has easy access to fantastic snow for skiing and

snowboarding at Mt. Bachelor plus an abundance of thoughtfully-developed trails for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. And if the snow weren’t scene is world class! enough, the food and craft beer

Accounting Melanie Selvey Senior Editor Darcy Tuscano Consulting Editor Wailana Kalama Copy Editor Marie Reymore Layout Designer Aleksandar Cvetkovic

Katie Nelson We love Mexico for a warm escape from our Canadian winters. We have been to the Playa del Carmen area and San Miguel de Allende and loved the warmth and friendliness of both places!

Kathryn Alexander Wherever we go, a hot tub on the deck is a must!

It’s my favorite place to escape the cold on a snowy winter night. Crisp mountain air and a view of the Milky Way go nicely with a glass of wine for me and a mug of cocoa for my son.

Ali Nelson Everywhere Magazine is published six times each year in both digital and print format. Single issues are priced at $4.99 per digital issue and $9.99 per print issue; subscriptions are priced at $29.95 for one year of digital issues and $59.95 for one year of digital and print issues. To subscribe, visit everywheremagazine.com. Postage paid in Boise, ID and at additional mailing offices.

For questions, contact Everywhere Magazine LLC at hello@everywheremagazine.com, 1.833.EVERYWHERE (1.833.383.7994), 1650 Targee St. #5322, PO Box 5322, Boise ID 83705. © Everywhere Magazine LLC. All rights are reserved. No reproduction is permitted without the prior written consent of Everywhere Magazine LLC. Everywhere Magazine LLC is not liable for any incorrect information or return of any submitted materials.

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Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

COVER – TOMSICKOVA; CONTENTS – HOPE; THIS PAGE – LESZEKGLASNER (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

Social Media Kathryn Alexander

One of our favorite winter family escapes was loading up the car and making the 16-hour drive to

Staff Photographers Katie Nelson a Colorado condo with our kids for a fun week of Katie Wallace skiing, movies, and games.

Editor’s Note

A

t Everywhere Magazine, we share our passion for travel with our kids, and now we’re excited to share it with you! Just because we’re parents doesn’t mean we have to stop traveling. The fun of exploring the world isn’t gone — but it did change, and big publications like National Geographic and AFAR are usually targeted at travelers without kids. We believe you can (and should!) still take grand adventures and bring the kids. A trek to Machu Picchu, a week in Hong Kong, or a rim-to-rim hike of the Grand Canyon, with your family? Why not?

Whatever your travel style, we have you covered. Are you selling everything and moving abroad? Living out of an RV and exploring North America? Traveling slowly through Europe with house swaps and a rail pass? Looking for tips to maximize your two-week summer vacation? Or dreaming about the day you can get out and explore the world with your kids? Everywhere Magazine is here.

At 21, I found my wanderlust traveling solo on a trip to Nicaragua. The days were long, the heat oppressive, 6

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Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

and I had an encounter with my first scorpion. But I was forever changed by the landscape, the culture, the amazing people, and later by my work as a Physician Assistant with local physicians in remote villages. When it was time to leave Nicaragua the first time, I yearned for my flight to be canceled so I could stay just one more day or at least spend a few more hours. That didn’t happen, but I did return countless more times over the years until I finally packed up my things and moved there.

Eventually, I returned to the U.S., married a man who shares my love of travel, gave birth to our daughter, and felt a new kind of happiness. But in contrast to my rich experiences in Nicaragua, daily life felt incomplete. My husband and I still had the travel bug and longed to expose our daughter to the world’s diverse cultures, new places, and vibrant languages.

We chose Malaysia for our first international trip with our child. Sixteen hours on a single flight with a 3-year-old broke us in quickly. We spent the next three hot and sticky weeks navigating a completely foreign culture with a toddler with nut allergies, with absolutely no foundation in the language — and had a fantastic time. She has now traveled to 10 countries outside the United States and is an adventure pro.

You may have a similar story — or one that is completely different. At Everywhere Magazine, we tell these stories to provide a resource for all families who travel. We show you how to incorporate adventure into your life, whether you are planning the first step out of your comfort zone or your next epic journey around the world. We want to inspire people to just get out there and go.

TEA PLANTATION: MANDY MOONEYHAM; MOONEYHAM FAMILY: LACIE HOLLAND, HOLLAND HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY

Welcome to Everywhere Magazine!

Over 11,500 vacation homes.

Endless memories. book at vacasa.com

Contributors

Fiona Croucher

Fiona’s first overseas experience was at age 16 on a stopover through Kuala Lumpur. Equal parts terrified and thrilled, she has since traveled to 43 countries and worked in the U.K. and Turkey. She is based in Western Australia with her husband and three young children. Her family travels at every opportunity, locally and overseas.

Darcy Tuscano

Darcy developed wanderlust at age 5 when The Sound of Music showed her that a vast world existed outside her life in the Midwest. Her volunteer work and travels have taken her throughout four continents and 35 countries. In 2015, with her wife, Kate, and their twin boys, she set off on her biggest adventure — moving to a small village on the Spanish Mediterranean coast to live, work, and educate. She is a writer, lover of the outdoors, and humanitarian aid worker.

Wailana Kalama

Wailana is a freelance writer and editor from Hawai‘i and currently hangs her hat in Lithuania.

Her travel writing has taken her to all corners of the globe. Her works have been published in BBC Travel, Lonely Planet, and Silverkris, among others. She is also the Editor-in-Chief for Routes & Water, a new magazine about Vilnius, Lithuania. She has an MFA in Creative Nonfiction.

Amanda Bird

Amanda is a former USA Skeleton National Team member and is now Marketing and Communications Director for USA Bobsled/Skeleton. With a lifetime goal of visiting every U.S. National Park with her husband and son, she is interested in all things wild. Scenic trips, hiking, and being a steward for the environment help shape who she is, where she goes, and the stories she tells.

Laura Ambrey

Laura, a writer and mother of two, is currently based in the Pacific Northwest. She has studied in Australia, backpacked through Southeast Asia, given birth in Malaysia, climbed the Great Wall with her then 2- and 4-year-olds, and taken both kids to an emergency room in Papua New Guinea. (They’re totally fine!) She studied journalism at Washington State University.

Genny Arredondo

Travel enthusiast, adventure seeker, environmentalist: many titles can describe contributing author Genny. These days, she lives in Seattle and is known as “Mama” by her two young boys. She previously spent 13 months traveling around the world with her husband and plans on living abroad with her family in the near future.

Ali Nelson

An attorney by trade, Ali lives in the mountains outside of Boise with her husband, her 4-yearold son, and two rambunctious Labradors. She has traveled to 26 countries on four continents and is happiest when she’s planning her next backpacking route, sailing trip, or outdoor adventure.

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Upcoming Events

March 4–8, 2019 — Project World School Family Summit, Playa del Carmen, Mexico worldschoolfamilysummit.com

August 30–September 28, 2019 — Stone Soup Family Pop Up in Amed, Bali, Indonesia stonesouppopup.com

April & May 2019 — Stone Soup Family Pop Up in Panajachel, Guatemala stonesouppopup.com

September 2019 — Free entrance to National Parks for 4th graders; valid through August 2020 www.everykidinapark.gov

April 20, 2019 — First Day of National Park Week: free entrance to National Parks!

September 11–13, 2019 — TBEX North America in Billings, Montana tbexcon.com

June 17–July 1, 2019 — Project World School Family Learning Adventure in Sacred Valley, Peru projectworldschool.com/perufamily-2019 August 25, 2019 — National Park Service Birthday: free entrance to National Parks!

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September 28, 2019 — National Public Lands Day: free entrance to National Parks!

October 2–6, 2019 — Family Adventure Summit in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia familyadventuresummit.com October 5–13, 2019 — Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta www.visitalbuquerque.org/event/albuquerqueinternational-balloon-fiesta November 11, 2019 — Veterans Day: Free entrance to National Parks!

IDORENBERG/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

May 5–11, 2019 — National Travel and Tourism Week: this year’s theme, Travel Matters, is advertised as “a time when travel and tourism professionals across the country unite to celebrate the value travel holds for our economy, businesses and personal well-being.”

GEAR UP

Laura Ambrey

Gear Up for Sleep W

hether you’re changing time zones, mistakenly booking a hotel in a bustling nightlife district, or simply hoping your babe will nap on the go, sorting out your family’s sleep while traveling can be tricky. Here are some of our favorite products that will hopefully make the process a little easier on everyone.

Everywhere Magazine and its writers did not receive any compensation or discounts for reviewing these products.

They’re simply our favorites!

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Lotus Travel Crib by Guava Family $199.95 for crib or $299.90 for crib & bassinet bundle www.guavafamily.com/products/lotus-everywhere-travelcrib

PACKED BAGS: KATIE WALLACE; CRIB: GUAVA FAMILY INC.

Weighing in at just 13 pounds — including the backpackstyle carrying case — the Lotus Travel Crib by Guava Family is uber-portable. The bed was designed for babies and toddlers ages 0-3 and up to 35 inches tall. The 15-second set up (yes, you read that correctly) makes it a breeze for jetlagged moms and dads, and it’s just as simple to pack away. Once set up, it measures 45 inches long by 32 inches wide by 25 inches high, and the zip down side lets you get right down next to your baby if need be. If you’re not a fan of laying your baby on the floor (albeit on the included mattress), there is a bassinet conversion kit for babies up to 18 pounds.

The Shrunks Inflatable Bed Rail

Lectrofan White Noise Machine

$15.95 for 2 rails

$49.95

Check Amazon for current pricing

www.soundofsleep.com/lectrofan

Perfect for bigger kids who can sleep in an existing bed, the inflatable bed rail works as a safeguard to make sure they don’t roll out in the middle of the night. The rail slips under the fitted sheet and the velvety grips on the bottom of the rail help it stay in place. Once inflated, the bedrail measures 48 inches long by 7 inches wide by 4 inches high. Perk: It can also be used as a divider for kids sharing a bed to avoid the inevitable cries of “He’s on my side!” The rail comes with a small foot pump and a drawstring carrying case, altogether weighing less than 2 pounds.

Construction nearby, thin hotel/motel room walls, or loud footsteps in the room above can all fade into the background thanks to a simple white noise machine.

Bonus: If your kids are used to having white noise at home, bringing it with you can make sleeping in a new place seem more familiar. The Lectrofan includes 10 fan sounds and 10 white noise sounds at different frequencies to combat virtually any noise disturbance, volume control, and a timer that can be set in 60-minute increments. A notable 82 percent of 7,000+ Amazon reviewers gave this little machine a 5-star rating, and the travel case is a nice optional add-on.

AmazonBasics Baby Travel Blackout Blind with Suction Cup

Ergobaby Omni 360

$31.99

ergobaby.com/baby-carrier/omni-360

www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Travel-Blackout-BlindSuction/dp/B071YVLK63

You can’t always hit the pause button for your baby’s sleep needs, which makes a carrier a good solution. The Ergobaby Omni 360 provides ample lumbar support and cushy, customizable straps so mom or dad can stay just as comfortable as the wee one. Multiple positions are possible, with options to face your baby in or out on your front, back, or hip. The tuck-away hood provides sun and wind protection and a little bit of extra coziness for sleep. The Omni can be used for babies and toddlers 7–45 pounds, and no required infant insert means no infant insert left in the last hotel room.

Blackout blinds are a naptime (or summertime) sleep-saver.

This blind measures 78 inches by 50 inches, but Velcro along the edges makes it easy to customize the dimensions to fit any smaller window that needs darkening. The attached suction cups stick to clean window surfaces. The blind weighs less than 1 pound and folds up easily to fit in a suitcase or diaper bag.

$180.00

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compact car safety for every adventure

the ideal booster for travel mifold is the grab-and-go booster seat. It is compact, safe and portable. mifold keeps your child secure by adjusting the adult regular booster seat and is just as safe* cars. mifold goes with the child and not the car.

For more information visit mifold.com

* mifold is safety tested and meets or exceeds NHTSA standard FMVSS 213

Travel Trends

Wailana Kalama

Eco-Conscious Kid Wear A

few years ago, eco-friendly clothes for your kid weren’t exactly an easy find. These days, an increasing number of companies are taking steps to make sure their brands stay eco-friendly and maintain a sustainable ethos. With so many cute designs now available, you don’t have to compromise your sense of adorable.

Frugi

HOUSE WHITE: URBAN BABY COMPANY; BABY BOY: JESSICA RABBITT; SUNSHINE: THE BONNIE MOB; TEXTILE: MANDY MOONEYHAM

Frugi is a fun-loving brand with a focus on recycled fabrics and organic cotton. All products are kid-tested and proudly colorful.

Designs are approachable and attractive with features like animal prints and kid-friendly buttons. The company’s sustainability efforts have earned it certifications from the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and the Soil Association — no simple task. Packaging is fully biodegradable, and 1% of all profits are donated to charity each year. Bonus: Frugi carries maternity wear for mom!

Urban Baby Company Have a toddler or baby in tow? You can’t go wrong with the Urban Baby Company, a trend-conscious, gender-neutral clothing line that specializes in onesies, leggings, headbands, and hats for the little ones. All materials are GOTS certified, 100% organic, and fair trade.

RagaBabe Cloth Diapers Pack a few of these awesome cloth diapers in your bag before a road trip. RagaBabe cloth diapers are available in all-in-one (fully washable cloth diapers) or all-in-two (a waterproof shell with reusable cotton inserts) styles, so you don’t have to send diapers to the landfill even when you’re on the road. You can even fit disposable inserts available elsewhere into the shells of the all-in-two diapers. And the designs are crazy adorable. Mermaids and seahorses, anyone?

The Bonnie Mob This family-owned, sustainable clothing line caters to kids from the newborn all the way to age 7. All cotton used in their clothing is bought by The Bonnie Mob at the source, is GOTS certified, and carries the Oeko-Tex Mark without toxic dyes or harmful substances. A varied and playful selection is ideal for any creative youngster.

Tiger prints, cute bunny hats, rainbows — what’s not to love?

Toby Tiger Since 1998, Toby Tiger has been a top pick for kids and parents alike. With bold, playful patterns mostly available in GOTS certified organic cotton, Toby Tiger offers everything from clothes for kids and infants to household pieces like blankets, mobiles, pillows, and more.

Everywhere Magazine did not receive any compensation or discounts for reviewing these products. They’re simply our favorites!

op/ed

Amanda Bird

O

pportunities for what the Japanese call “forest bathing” are rapidly disappearing. The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries in Japan developed the term “shinrinyoku” (or “forest bathing”) in 1982, which the Association of Nature and Forest Therapy Guides and Programs describes as “a research based framework for supporting healing and wellness through immersion in forests and other natural environments.”

Japan offers over 60 Forest Therapy Bases to encourage and guide those seeking the benefits of being in nature.

Getting outside is a proven mood lifter. More and more research about climate change and its detrimental effects on civilizations and the planet is being published, and there’s evidence that we’re losing the very things we need to maintain

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a healthy balance in our lives. Forests are disappearing, oceans are being polluted, and the air we breathe is filled with smog.

Yet despite these reports, many people continue to believe it’s someone else’s problem. Too many think that it’s not interesting, it’s too late, or it’s simply not real. Their vision is clouded.

The best way I cope with the emotional exhaustion of our constantly connected modern life is to get out in nature. As soon as I inhale the fresh air, my mind clears, and a sense of peace is immediate. I feel the same burst of endorphins when planning an adventure, just imagining what we will see, climb, eat, and experience. Outdoor adventure makes our needs and priorities shift, tests our boundaries, and develops a desire to explore. It makes us more tolerant and encourages empathy. Whenever I

MARINA_LARINA/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Save the Planet, Save Us All

say it’s a shame, and make little to no effort to clean up our own hike to the summit of a mountain, I gain perspective. As soon as acts. But understanding, monitoring, and preserving our planet’s I catch my breath and the pounding of my heart eases in my ears, natural environment is a big issue that demands our attention.

I settle into the earth and feel the weight of the world release It’s not too late, and it’s very real. We each have a responsibility from my shoulders. By seeing the world, I gain my vision and to our children, our community, our country, and ultimately, to take stock in the things that really matter. Maybe those who don’t our planet, to make our own personal and positive changes on the believe that climate change is real need to take a hike to see for environment. themselves.

We don’t have to wear a cape to make a difference, and Famed American naturalist John Muir understood the we may never see the impact of our efforts. My family made importance of being in nature. In his book The Mountains of a commitment to make small changes each year, which has California, he wrote: “Climb the mountains and get their good included eliminating meat consumption, reducing dairy from tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into our diet, making trips more efficient in an effort to reduce time trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the spent in our vehicles, shortening our shower time, recycling, storms their energy, while cares drop away from you like the and using upcycled products. This year, I’m not buying a cup of leaves of Autumn.” coffee or tea unless I have a reusable cup with me. We are often The year 2017 was one of the three warmest years on record guilty of forgetting our reusable shopping bags, so we have and was 1.92°F (1.1°C) above the pre-industrial period. According recommitted to keeping them in the car so we can stop using to NASA’s website, “The current warming trend is of particular plastic bags. Instead of buying new significance because most of it clothes for special occasions, we’re is extremely likely (greater than going to try to borrow or rent them.

95 percent probability) to be the It seemed overwhelming when we result of human activity since the th We don’t have to started, but our efforts have become mid-20 century and proceeding habits. We’ve been able to make at a rate that is unprecedented over wear a cape to make a progress each year by focusing on decades to millennia.” one change at a time. That certainly About 2.5 billion metric tons of difference, and we may doesn’t mean we’re perfect — but solid waste is produced around the we’re aware, alert, concerned, and world each year, and of that, 275 never see the impact of eager to ensure a future for our million metric tons is plastic waste. son that includes the same natural More than eight million tons of that our efforts. resources we’ve been able to enjoy. plastic is dumped into our oceans.

Theodore Roosevelt, the 26th Also, extreme weather events are projected to increase as a result of U.S. President, helped establish 230 climate change. Entire countries million acres of public land during like the central Pacific nation of his presidency and was dedicated to Kiribati with an average elevation of 6.5 feet (2 meters) will be conservation. He said: “But there must be the look ahead, there wiped out and underwater. Greenland has lost an average of must be a realization of the fact that to waste, to destroy, our 281 billion tons of ice each year between 1993 and 2016. Let’s put natural resources, to skin and exhaust the land instead of using it that in perspective: the USS Gerald R. Ford is the world’s largest so as to increase its usefulness, will result in undermining in the aircraft carrier, housing 75 aircraft and weighing 110,000 tons. days of our children the very prosperity which we ought by right Greenland is losing the equivalent of more than 2.5 million USS to hand down to them amplified and developed.”

Gerald R. Fords of ice a year. That’s not small.

We need to make a change so we can give our children the And that’s not even the tip of the iceberg. chance to climb the same mountains, to gain perspective, to The 17 Sustainable Development Goals, adopted by all find refuge in the trees. Let’s give them clarity and peace by United Nations Member States in 2015, are a call for action preserving our planet and teaching our children why it matters. by all countries to promote prosperity while protecting the We must show them how to make a difference, even if it’s just environment. But we shouldn’t rely on the actions of various recycling one bottle at a time. nations as they implement their commitments to the Paris Agreement on Climate Change. It’s easy to shrug our shoulders,

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Interview

Fiona Croucher

Project Trek Life hree years ago, Nate and Christian Axness were financially drowning. Like so many other Americans carrying debt, their monthly expenses exceeded their income. They had more than $120,000 in consumer debt, not including their mortgage.

This crushing debt was the catalyst for turning their lives around.

They found a business model that gave them financial freedom and allowed them to live a life of intentional travel, a life by design, then sold their house and most of their belongings, paid off their debts, and bought a motorhome.

In April 2019, Nate, Christian, and their two children Ella, 6, and Andersen, 4, will have been traveling full time for two years.

They are one of a growing number of families that are able to work exclusively online, which means they don’t need a home base but instead are able to live full-time in their motorhome, a 2014 Coachman Encounter 36BH. A typical day for them includes waking up around 8 a.m., eating breakfast and doing schoolwork until 10:30 a.m., and then spending the rest of the day exploring their surroundings. They like to hike in National Parks, discover new cities, or meet up with other traveling families in their area. They have visited nearly all the National Parks in the mainland United States, and their travels have recently taken them to Mexico.

“Mexico is incredible — there is so much to see,” says Nate, describing their month-long stay in San Miguel de Allende. “It’s a beautiful city with amazing architecture and friendly people.”

“It’s touristy, though, which makes it a great place to start the process of getting out of your comfort zone,” adds Christian.

Getting out of their comfort zone is a central theme that seems to dictate their adventurous lifestyle. Before they went to Mexico, they succumbed to the media-portrayed fear about the dangers there, something Christian says she is ashamed of now that she has seen firsthand what an amazing place it is. “The media is so incredibly inaccurate; they create fear, but there are many, many places in America that are statistically more dangerous than Mexico.”

In Mexico, Nate had the opportunity to deliver donations to the well-known caravan of people migrating north from Honduras to the U.S.-Mexican border. He went without Christian and the children out of worries for their safety, but what he saw was vastly opposed to how the media was reporting the situation. “The media say the majority of the people making up the caravan are economic refugees, men that are going to

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AXNESS FAMILY: NATE AXNESS; MIGRANTS: AHMAD FAIZAL YAHYA/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

T

climb walls to get into the U.S.” The reality as Nate saw it was heartbreaking: families with young children that are fearing for their lives. Most of them are traveling to the border to apply for asylum legally. After Nate saw the reality of the situation, he and Christian organized a collection effort in their online community and raised $1,500 in two hours. The donated funds allowed them to purchase tents, socks, food, and other essentials and take them directly to the families in need. Christian hopes this experience will empower her children to take on a cause they are passionate about and make a difference. “As world travelers, we have a unique opportunity to help people. We wanted to break down the fears and see things for ourselves. We want the children to see humanitarian efforts, however small.”

One cause Nate and Christian are passionate about is educating their children about the world. “The kids are exposed to so much that they can develop their own sense of self,” says Nate. The children are primarily worldschooled. They also incorporate materials from The Good and the Beautiful, created

by Jenny Phillips. “It’s a minimalistic approach to learning with an amazing curriculum,” Christian says. “We love it.”

Worldschooling is a relatively new term used to describe how

children or adults learn from the hands-on experience of travel and being out in the world, rather than learning by being taught by another person or a textbook.

After formal learning and exploring is done for the day, Christian and Nate still have to work. “This is not a vacation; it’s a lifestyle, which has a completely different mentality and routine.” To get themselves out of debt, the couple had to change both their careers and their mindsets, and they want to stress that it took hard work. They currently work with Young Living Essential Oils, something Christian combines with mentoring, teaching workshops, and helping women who are interested in becoming entrepreneurs. They love the Young Living business model as there is a very small initial investment, so start-up costs generally don’t need to be financed through debt. They do warn, though, that it’s not a get rich quick scheme. Christian still works around 40 hours per week planning team events, creating content, and connecting with people, while Nate (a former firefighter in their home state of Florida) has taken on the role of stay-at-home Dad. He also creates online content — they have a website and a YouTube vlog — which forms part of their now sixfigure income. They no longer have debt but still maintain a strict budget, following guidelines they learned from Dave Ramsey; his Financial Peace University course was a big part of how they

were able to free themselves from their substantial debt.

They have been documenting their journey on their YouTube vlog since 2017 with informative and entertaining videos detailing how they packed up their lives, what their original RV and upgraded motorhome look like inside, their budget, how they homeschool and worldschool Ella and Andersen, and the places they visit. They love to be transparent and share the details of their experiences so other families can see that they are just ordinary people who have made a choice to do something extraordinary.

Nate and Christian are very sociable; they love that their family is exposed daily to so many ideas and opinions. Christian remarks that “in the 9-to-5 mentality, you are around the same people all the time and become another piece of that puzzle.

[On the road], we connect with so many families; some are unschoolers [a term for children that do not attend any form of formal education, learning solely from experiencing the world] and some stay in the RV and teach their kids for 4-5 hours per day.” They love to learn from the diversity that comes from living on the road and constantly meeting new people.

Nate and Christian have strikingly different personality types, both benefiting from full-time travel. Nate is a creature of habit who can easily get stuck in ruts, so the ever-changing horizon

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CARAVAN PHOTOS: NATE AXNESS; TSUNAMI SIGN: SAYPRO/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

keeps him from falling back into old habits. Christian, on the other hand, thrives on change and loves meeting new people and being in new places. She notes, “moving around allows me to be creative, helping me with the business and to be a better mom.”

When asked about the challenges of a nomadic lifestyle, Christian had a difficult time responding. She finds one of the bigger challenges to be the simple things such as grocery shopping: “It’s exhausting, not knowing where things are in the store.” She used to enjoy the familiarity of knowing how to get to the store and seeing the same people working there and the efficiency of knowing where to find her favorite products on the shelves. This is a minor inconvenience compared to their new life of constant adventure, with minimal possessions and maximum family time.

The Axnesses are not sure how long they will live this nomadic lifestyle. They describe it as “long-term, open-ended family travel” and say they will continue to travel until the needs of their family change. They plan to head up the East Coast of the U.S. for the spring and summer and then will re-evaluate where to spend the winter. Longer term, if the kids express that they want to go to school and have a more stable home base, the family will consider that, and their plans will evolve. At least for now, though, they don’t have an end date and want to branch out more: “We want to do more international travel; we love the culture shock!” says Christian. Nate adds, “Getting uncomfortable always leads to something beautiful.”

A big part of their online presence is aimed at helping other families who feel like they once did: that they are out of options. They want people to reach out to them. “We want to be ambassadors for the idea of freedom. We love providing encouragement to others. [What we do] seems daunting, but it’s very doable.”

Nate and Christian would love readers to connect with them on social media via their blog www.projecttreklife.com, YouTube channel Project Trek, or Instagram @projecttrek.

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Ali Nelson

Beyond Entertainment

The

Impossible The movies, shows, and books we find most memorable are not only entertaining but also spark discussions that go on long after we’ve finished watching or reading.

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he 2012 film, The Impossible, tells the true story of one family’s experience vacationing in Khao Lak, Thailand during the Indian Ocean tsunami on Boxing Day (December 26) in 2004. What starts as a relaxing vacation for a family of five (Maria, Henry, and their three boys, Lucas, 12, Thomas, 7, and Simon, 5) quickly turns into a mission to stay alive and reunite amongst chaos and destruction. Their story plays on our fears about what might go wrong once we take our children out into the world but also shows the power and strength that parents, children, and communities demonstrate when up against the impossible.

As I watched the events unfold on the screen before me, I couldn’t help but imagine my own family (and in particular, my son, not much younger than Simon) enduring such a disaster.

The screen blurry through my tears, I watched my deepest fears as a parent (life-threatening injury and separation from my loved ones) come to life. I wondered whether I would be able to overcome those fears and take my own family to the same foreign and unpredictable destinations I frequented before parenthood.

The heart-wrenching saga may not have scared me off from future adventures, but it did make me ask some hard questions about why and how we travel.

The movie opens with a typical scene of parents bickering about responsibilities at home, siblings arguing about devices, and tense discussions about job retention and finances. Does travel help you break away from routine or add pressure to these issues?

When the wave makes landfall, Maria and Lucas are immediately separated from the others. What would you do if someone in your family got lost or separated? Have you discussed the steps you could take to reunite? Does this differ from destination to destination? Have you asked your kids to memorize the name or address of your lodging, or to learn phone numbers for emergency contacts? What have you discussed about communicating in countries where the native language is not your own? Henry later makes a choice to send Thomas and Simon to a shelter in the mountains so he can continue looking for Maria and Lucas along the coast. Would you risk separating further to bring everyone together? Who would you trust to keep your children safe in times of crisis, especially when you’re far from home?

Swimming against the raging floodwaters allows Maria and Lucas to survive the initial impact of the tsunami. Do you

prioritize teaching your children swimming or other survival skills before traveling? Would learning about the risks you may encounter from natural disasters, insects, wildlife, or on excursions make you feel more prepared or more fearful?

Maria is taken to a hospital for medical assistance including medication and surgery for her wounds. What assumptions do you make about the medical care available in other countries and other cultures, compared to your resources at home? What have you experienced in hospitals abroad?

A central theme of the movie is helping others and asking for help. In one scene, a couple who is safe but impatient to return home refuses to lend Henry their cell phone; in the next, a man still searching for his family hands his phone to Henry in spite of a waning battery. How do you balance sacrificing your own safety and the resources you have and may need to survive with aiding a family member, friend, or stranger?

The risk of disasters (natural or otherwise) are ever-present at home and do not disappear when you travel; rather, they can be amplified in an unfamiliar place. What are the benefits of travel that make it worth it for you to leave the comfort and safety of home?

We’ve certainly pondered these questions and have arrived at our own answers, which may be different from yours. These answers are neither right nor wrong, but are right for our families. However, we always want to learn and improve. Share your thoughts with us and we’ll share ours with you in our ongoing discussion online at everywheremagazine.com.

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Trekking the National Parks is the award winning family board game where you will race to visit the majestic national parks in a fun and competitive way.

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Beat the Rat Race

Thinking of Quitting a Six-Figure Job?

MANDY MOONEYHAM

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n 2017, Everywhere Magazine’s Editor-in-Chief Mandy Mooneyham quit her six-figure job as a Physician Assistant after working for over 10 years in specialties ranging from family practice to neurosurgery. She had wanted to stay home since her daughter was born six years ago but didn’t make it a reality until recently.

Mandy learned a lot going from six figures to zero income as a stay-at-home mom. She observed that “The loss of my professional identity was bigger than I anticipated — but I haven’t missed being in the hospital once, which confirms it was time to move on.”

Mandy’s experiences may help anyone who is considering walking away from a career to take the first step. What she has learned, in no particular order: Make a Plan (or Don’t).

This step isn’t necessary, and waiting to have a backup plan in place can just delay change. Sometimes it takes the added pressure to force the hard decisions. “I was miserable just thinking about everything I was missing with my daughter, and the stress was taking its toll. Once I gave notice, the mental clutter cleared up, and I regained the capacity to plan ahead,” Mandy notes.

Create a Budget. Living on a budget is as simple as listing out expenses in great detail and not making purchases that don’t fit the budget. Mandy’s family found that they could live on a lot less money than they thought was necessary. Some expenses seem fixed, like a mortgage, car payments, student loan payments, expenses for groceries, and gas. But sometimes doing more with less requires big-picture changes. Get creative — consider moving to a smaller home, a home in an area with a lower cost of living, or a home near family who can help with child care. Evaluate whether a second car is necessary or whether there is a resale market for expensive shoes and suits that make up a professional wardrobe. Mandy’s family shared one car for many months and learned valuable lessons in compromise and communication.

Get Creative. The added time freed up by not working a high-pressure career can be profitable. Love to write? Submit

original writings to magazines that pay for submissions (like this one!). Have a skill or talent? Start marketing on Etsy. Just tired of working non-stop? Consider starting a business that capitalizes on the talents and experiences learned in professional life.

Evaluate Goals and Priorities. Some parents want to stay home with young children to not miss their formative years (and experiencing how cool they are as people!); others want the freedom to travel extensively or be location independent.

Mandy homeschools and worldschools her daughter now and finds “it is absolutely the best fit for our family.”

Consider the Sacrifices. Professional identity is important, and the loss of it can be more difficult than anticipated. Find a way to value whatever comes next and a way to describe it that doesn’t feel “less than” a former professional life. Relationships with coworkers and friends are significant, so find ways to stay in touch and build new ones with neighbors or others in the stay-at-home community.

Know What’s on the Other Side. Mandy finds that her new path is also hard — being a full-time mom is a tough gig. It’s exhausting in a totally different way. The questions and conversations are endless, and teachable moments are around every corner. The grass isn’t always greener, so choose a “hard” path with eyes wide open.

Value Outside Interests. Live more intentionally, more authentically. Join a book club. Cultivate a garden or a hobby, and recognize the value those experiences add in terms of quality of life.

Find a Voice. Start a blog or journal about significant experiences. The process of writing can force discoveries about identity or the seemingly mundane things that interfere with focus. Taking the time to do the hard work can bring new peace.

Let the creativity flow as the pressures of the working world fade into the background.

Be the Good. Mandy has been surprised that “it’s not about me, despite how often I describe my experiences in terms of ‘I’ and ‘me’.” She sees how much everyone struggles and how sharing her struggles and failures (and hearing the same from others) makes her feel less alone.

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Just Go

Mandy Mooneyham

Food Allergies

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her peanut and tree nut allergies) to Malaysia. Although we had observed a few reactions over the two years since her diagnosis, none had progressed to anaphylaxis, and we had not had to administer epinephrine, which made travel to a country with widespread nut cross-contamination feel like less of a risk. We did have one encounter with nuts at a Chinese restaurant that required clean up in the tiny airless bathroom, which made me aware that had her reaction been more severe, I was woefully unprepared to find emergency services and explain what had happened in the Malay language.

ALLERGENS: KATIE WALLACE; QR CODE AND PHONES: ASSURETECH

rom mild annoyance to a major life-threatening event, food allergies can present significant risks to traveling families.

Itchy rashes, gastrointestinal discomfort, and anaphylaxis can be difficult enough to manage at home but become major issues when traveling outside the “safe zone” without friends, family, and other resources nearby. Reducing risk and knowing what to do in an emergency in a new location are crucial to traveling safely with an allergy sufferer.

As a licensed Physician Assistant (PA), I’ve seen more than my fair share of allergic reactions. When our daughter developed a widespread rash the first time she tried peanut butter, I approached it clinically: removed the peanuts, treated her symptoms, and took photographs to show the pediatrician.

Later, after much consideration, we decided to take her (and

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fter AssureTech founder Joey Di Gangi encountered allergens up close and personal while traveling in Asia, he was inspired to share his knowledge with other allergy sufferers by creating an app to help navigate those tricky restaurant conversations where errors can cost more than time and money; they can be deadly.

The AssureTech Mobile App translates the top nine allergens into 25 languages to help allergy sufferers effectively communicate the foods they need to avoid. As Joey learned in Taiwan, however, sometimes mistakes happen. After a severe allergic reaction following an incident with cross-contamination, Joey designed a feature in the app to help people find a hospital and display a translated message that can ask for assistance seeking emergency medical attention. As an added bonus, the app also has an in-app store to connect people that travel with allergies to medical alert gear, stories from people that travel with allergies, and allergy-friendly food!

www.assuretech-mobile-app.com

PREP •

Know your allergies and carry a list with you, preferably translated into the local language.

• Research labeling laws. Some countries (especially in Europe) are better at identifying potential allergens or crosscontaminants in packaged food than others.

• Carry your own emergency medicine such as EpiPens and inhalers, and bring backups. Five thousand miles from home is not the opportune time to discover expired medication!

• Carry a list of local emergency numbers. Know which hospitals are nearest to your planned route and download offline maps you can access when WiFi or data signals go out.

• Call your cell phone provider before you leave to make sure you will have service abroad and that you have the best rates on roaming and data plans.

• Think through worst-case scenarios and how you would react.

• Don’t forget about potential exposure on public transportation such as flights, trains, and buses, and prepare to have enough safe food for the journey.

• If you have plans at a nice restaurant but can’t confirm ahead of time that it is allergy-free, consider bringing some safe fast food to the restaurant with you for the person with allergies.

• Double check your travel insurance to ensure that you are covered outside your home country. If not, search around for a plan that covers allergic reactions.

• Check out the Allergy Travels Facebook group to join in the conversation.

• Don’t let your guard down!

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY •

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Learn what makes a reaction severe and when to self-treat with emergency medicine like an Epi-Pen. Twenty percent of treated allergic reactions require additional medicine, IV fluids, or even endotracheal intubation to treat fully, so ALWAYS seek emergency medical care after administering epinephrine.

Anaphylaxis is a potentially fatal full-body reaction and needs to be recognized promptly.

Respiratory compromise (shortness of breath, wheezing, or persistent cough) or swelling of the lips, mouth, or tongue requires immediate treatment.

Skin involvement (rash, hives, flushing, or swelling) or gastrointestinal symptoms (persistent pain, vomiting, diarrhea) can be signs of anaphylaxis.

Symptoms may involve the nervous or cardiovascular systems, presenting with dizziness, confusion, loss of consciousness, and low blood pressure.

Make a note of exactly what was eaten within the last 24 hours as well as the timing of symptoms. Not all reactions happen immediately. Taking a picture of the menu at each meal can help your medical provider identify the cause of a reaction later, especially if the menu is in the local language.

Bring all of the patient’s medications with you to the hospital, so care is not delayed.

Some areas of the world are not used to seeing food allergy-related illnesses, so be prepared to insist on care.

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Essay

Ali Nelson

International Travel Doesn’t Appeal to Everyone T

raveling the world has in large part made me who I am today.

I lived in Germany for four years when I was a child and had the opportunity to visit 13 countries while we were there. I’ve continued to travel, visiting a total of 26 countries, returning to some again and again.

Spending time outside the United States has affected my personality and values in significant ways. Complicated logistics and travel setbacks have taught me to expect the unexpected and to take challenges in stride. Encountering nude beaches for the first time as a young girl and seeing families modestly changing into swimsuits on the side of a busy swimming pool taught me not to view nudity as sexualized or shameful. Spending time in other countries helps me compare and contrast the opportunities and values central to American culture, the good and the bad, from the emphasis on hard work as a path to success to the lack of widely-available parental leave to give families a strong foundation from the start. Touring castles, ruins, and cobblestone streets in Europe reminds me that the United States is still in its adolescence and underscores the importance of history and heritage.

In light of how formative and influential travel has been for me and the importance I place on giving my son the same opportunities and experiences, I was completely taken aback when we asked close friends to us join us in Costa Rica next year and they responded, “We’re not really interested in that.”

In Costa Rica specifically? No — in traveling internationally.

Anywhere. At all.

WHAAAAT?! Our two differing perspectives couldn’t be further apart.

We’ve discussed this at length, and I have finally come to understand and respect (although not to agree with) this perspective.

Traveling internationally is expensive. Passports cost over $100 each, even for kids. Reaching anywhere but Mexico or Canada from the United States usually requires a flight that can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars, depending on the destination. Children can only fly free until age 2, multiplying

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the cost of plane tickets. Exchange rates vary widely, and the U.S. dollar isn’t always the stronger currency. And island nations that import many of their products may charge a premium for everything from a bottle of beer to a hamburger. Why pay more somewhere else for what is available more affordably here?

There’s so much to see in the United States. The United States is immense and has so many cities and National Parks that would take a lifetime to explore. It’s possible to get lost in the busy streets of Los Angeles or on the trails of Glacier National Park.

We have rich experiences and grand sights here at home that are more accessible, and we can still experience different lifestyles and cultures in other parts of this country. San Antonio is very different from Seattle; Boston a world away from Boise. What’s so different about traveling to Berlin?

It’s outside our comfort zone. Admittedly, it can be difficult to travel to a destination where we’re outsiders unfamiliar with the language, currency, and customs. And traveling to

MUDRETSOV/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

developing nations emphasizes our privilege and the dichotomy of spending more on a trip than the men and women living there will see in a year. A fun and relaxing vacation close to home can be more comfortable than venturing into unfamiliar territory.

It isn’t safe. The U.S. media portrays traveling abroad as dangerous for Americans — and not just in times of political unrest or in areas where only the military and the criminals are armed. Right or wrong, many Americans believe that the right to carry a firearm makes them safer, better able to defend themselves, their families, and innocent bystanders against the evils of the world: drug traffickers, kidnappers, terrorists, and the government itself. Fears about safety are only amplified when children may be impacted. Why leave a country that has written the right of defense into its Constitution and risk violence beyond its borders?

We didn’t care for it. “But we HAVE traveled internationally,” our friends said. “We went to Mexico on spring break.” If the goal

is simply a sunny beach, fun times, and drinking a margarita (or three) in a lounge chair, the expense, hassle, and risk may not be worthwhile. One bad (or even mediocre) experience can turn someone off travel for good. What’s really the difference between vacation and travel anyway?

Those of us bitten by the travel bug are shouting answers to these questions, but our shouting won’t get anyone to cross selfimposed boundaries, take an uncomfortable action, or part with hard-earned money. So for Christmas, we gifted our friends the cost of applying for passports, with the goal of bringing them with us on a trip next year. They have yet to take in their applications, and we’ll continue to love and respect them if they never do. But we’d love to share our experiences with them first-hand and see if their disinterest in seeing more of the world continues after that first trip. I WANT TO TRAVEL THE WORLD and continue learning and growing through the experiences I expect we’ll have — but perhaps that isn’t true for everyone.

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Your Child’s First Passport G

etting your child’s first U.S. passport requires a lot more paperwork — and a lot more time — than many people expect. Our tips and tricks for the application process will help you skip the lines and get you across the border to start your family’s international adventures.

PASSPORT BOOK OR PASSPORT CARD?

We recommend the passport book since it will take you more places; the passport card is only valid for travel to Canada, Mexico, Bermuda, and the Caribbean.

PRO TIP: Longer passport books with extra pages are available for the same price!

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HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

For first-time applicants, the U.S. Department of State charges $80 for a minor’s passport book (slightly less expensive than the $110 charged for adults) and $15 for a minor’s passport card. The passport acceptance facility also charges $35 for each application. Don’t forget to bring separate payments in the form of a check or money order for each fee! Credit and debit cards are only accepted only at Passport Agencies, not at passport acceptance facilities. If your trip is right around the corner, you can pay a $60 expedited service fee to reduce the average processing time to 2-3 weeks, down from the 4-6 weeks required for routine processing.

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WHAT DO I NEED TO BRING WITH ME?

Although passport renewal applications can be processed by mail, all first-time applicants and all children under age 16 (even if they’ve had a passport previously) must apply in person.

Incomplete applications will not be accepted, so know what you need before you go. This includes: • A completed Form DS-11 (Application for a U.S. Passport), including your child’s social security number or a signed statement that none was issued • Your child’s original birth certificate or other evidence of U.S. citizenship (like a report of birth abroad) and parental relationship (like an adoption or divorce/custody decree) to present for review, PLUS a photocopy or second certified copy of each to submit with the application • Your valid government-issued ID (for instance, a valid driver’s license, U.S. or foreign passport, government employee, or military ID), PLUS a photocopy • Evidence of parental consent by EACH parent/guardian.

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•

For two-parent households, each parent generally must appear in person; when one parent is unable to appear, the application must attach a notarized Form DS 3053 (Statement of Consent) dated within the prior three months, along with a copy of that parent’s government-issued ID as presented to the notary. When one parent has sole custody or the other parent cannot be located, additional documentation or forms may be required.

A photograph of your child that meets all requirements for size, expression, clothing, and other specifications. While you can take the photo yourself, we recommend having it taken by someone familiar with the requirements — you’ll need a white background, no eyeglasses, no selfies, and no smiling.

PRO TIPS: Try photographing a baby lying down or sitting upright in a car seat. The UPS Store, Walgreens, and many passport acceptance facilities will take and print passport photos for a small fee. Get photos for small children taken ahead of time, well before you’re ready to submit. While sitting for the photo at the passport acceptance facility may be efficient for adult applicants, it’s a lot to ask of small children in a single visit.

If your trip is within two weeks and you have documentation of your trip (like an airline ticket), you must make an appointment at a Passport Agency for faster service. Plan to spend several hours while the Passport Agency makes your passport, and bring an extra check for the $60 fee for expedited service. Contact the National Passport Information Center at 1-877-487-2778 or check online to find the Passport Agency nearest you.

Don’t forget two separate forms of payment!

WHERE DO I SUBMIT?

Passport applications must be submitted to an authorized passport acceptance facility. Facilities in larger cities may require appointments, which are often booked solid a month in advance. You do not have to apply at a passport acceptance facility in your county of residence, so consider driving to a more rural county nearby — just call ahead to confirm that someone will be available to meet with you. You can find authorized facilities near you at iafdb.travel.state.gov.

The arrival of your child’s passport will be one less thing standing between you and your family’s next adventure.

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PASSPORT APPLICATION: KATIE NELSON; STAMPS: TY/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Navigation

Wailana Kalama

10 Cool Places to Watch the Northern Lights T

he aurora borealis is no stranger to bucket lists. At the top of many “must-see” compilations is a visit to the northern climes for a glimpse of the elusive and spectacular northern lights, best seen between August and April. Thankfully, your choice of places to stay is not as barren as the frigid landscape, as there are a number of cool lodges designed to optimize your view of the aurora alongside fun winter activities like snowshoeing, reindeer rides, and cross-country skiing. Build some lasting memories on your next vacation by treating the family to a stay at one of these unique accommodations.

IceHotel in Jukkasjärvi, Sweden: This frozen hotel is made entirely of ice, carved fresh each season in the Swedish Lapland. www.icehotel.com

Kakslauttanen in Saariselkä, Finland: Opened in 1999, this is the world’s first glass igloo resort, a dream-like winter wonderland with snow globes sitting beneath snow-dusted pines. www.kakslauttanen.fi

Santa Claus Holiday Village in Rovaniemi, Finland: This is the perfect getaway for younger kids, complete with a Gingerbread Club, elf school, arts & crafts, sledding, and ample view of the northern lights in winter. www.santaclausholidayvillage.fi/en/ home

ION Adventure Hotel in Nesjavellir, Iceland: Less than an hour’s drive from Reykjavik, this stylish hotel includes hot pools and lava fields and is only a short drive from the Golden Circle. The hotel even has its own panoramic northern lights bar where you can chat with the hotel’s in-house astronomer. ionadventure.ioniceland.is

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Sápmi Nature Camp in Nábrreluokta, Finland: This rugged campsite includes five lavvu (Sámi-style tents) where you can get away from the noise and light pollution to enjoy the lights unencumbered in the heart of Laponia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. www.sapminature.com/the-sapminature-camp

Hattvika Lodge in Ballstad, Norway: Head to the photogenic Lofoten Islands for unforgettable shots of the night sky and the jumping off point for bay cruises. This lodge is tucked away in a historic Norwegian fishing village active for the past 1,000 years. www.hattvikalodge.no

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Hotel Arctic in Ilulissat, Greenland: When it comes to iceberg-strewn landscapes, Greenland takes the gold medal. Touted as “the world’s most northerly 4-star hotel,” Hotel Arctic offers igloo cottages and helicopter tours of the icy fjords. hotelarctic.com/ilulissat/ilulissatisfjord/?lang=en

Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel in Alta, Norway: This hotel offers another choice for you to rent a room sculpted entirely out of ice, or you can opt to camp out in a lavvu with a toasty fire. You can also hearken back to the olden days by mushing into the middle of the woods with huskies on the banks of the Alta River. sorrisniva.no

Hotel Alyeska in Girdwood, AK, United States: You don’t have to leave the United States for spectacular Arctic sights. Escape to the wilderness in this chateau-style hotel for some ideal viewing. www.alyeskaresort.com/hotel

Blachford Lake Lodge near Yellowknife, NT, Canada: This familyrun eco-lodge accessible only by plane rewards intrepid families with endless snowy playgrounds, igloo building workshops, and landscapes ripe for snowmobiling. blachfordlakelodge.com

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Winter Outdoor Adventures

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Genny Arredondo

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SNOW CANDY: MBRUXELLE; BUBBLES: ALFIRA; FIRE: DIMMAS72; SNOWMAN: JASMIN MERDIN (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM). FAMILY HIKING: KATIE NELSON; SNOW VOLCANO: AMBER SCHREITER

AKE A HIKE: Don’t ditch your hiking gear just because of cooler temps — instead, take advantage of less-trafficked trails to take in the beauty and tranquility of the winter season.

Whether you stop and listen to the animals and other sounds of winter, look for animal tracks, create a scavenger hunt for your kids, or construct a fort out of sticks and fallen logs, there’s an abundance of fun to be had in the winter that can shed new light on your usual trails. And cooler weather often means drier weather, so bundle up and enjoy a winter hike!

of possibilities — so have some fun, and don’t forget to take pictures!

Whatever your wintertime adventure, don’t forget to prepare yourself for potentially wet and cold conditions. Packing extra layers, warm drinks, and plenty of snacks will stack the odds in your favor and make for happy and safe explorers. And don’t forget to check the weather forecast before departing. With a little preparation and forethought, your family can enjoy a flurry of outdoor memories and adventures that last a lifetime!

DISCOVER SNOW SCIENCE: Many kids (and parents) know the thrill and exhilaration of waking up to fallen snow. Use your kids’ excitement and enthusiasm for the snow to foster a passion for learning and discovery.  Create a Snow Volcano: With household staples like baking soda and vinegar, parents can help kids create erupting snow volcanoes. Simply form snow into a small mound the shape of a volcano, use a stick or your finger to make a small hole at the top, pack baking soda into the hole, and pour vinegar over the top to watch your volcano erupt. If your snow absorbs too much of the vinegar, you can place a small bottle or cup in the hole to create a more productive reaction. Add red coloring to the baking soda prior to pouring the vinegar for a fun lava-like effect.  Blow Frozen Bubbles: If the temperature is cold enough (below 10°F or around -12°C), have your kids blow bubbles that freeze into magical ice orbs.  Make Snow Candy: Do you and your kids have a sweet tooth? You might enjoy making snow candy by molding snow into fun shapes, pouring syrup into your newly created snow mold, and leaving it outside overnight. Helpful tips: If you don’t want to wait until morning to enjoy your frozen treat, first pour the syrup into a saucepan and heat to 235°F (112°C). Creating your snow mold on a non-stick surface such a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper will make removal a breeze.

BUILD A CAMPFIRE: Kindle kids’ winter excitement with a campfire in the snow! Not only is it a great way to stay warm on chilly nights, but it is also the perfect excuse to bust out the marshmallows or enjoy a steaming cup of cocoa (or both!).

Families with younger kiddos will appreciate the early-setting winter sun, allowing them to partake in a warm campfire before bedtime. If you want to get fancy, wrap some premade (or homemade) dough around a stick and roast campfire breadsticks. You can even add a bit of sugar and cinnamon for a sweet treat!

BUILDING A SNOWMAN: Challenge your family to think outside the box to create a snowman (or snowwoman) like no other.

Instead of using traditional items like stick arms, eyes made of stones, and a carrot nose, why not mix it up a bit? Add a pop of color to your snowman with some food coloring. Grab some leftover produce out of your fridge and jazz up your snowman’s face; think grapes for eyes, a zucchini for a nose, or potato slices for ears. Lastly, get inspired with a trip to your local thrift store to pick up a plaid bowtie, silly wig, or old umbrella. There’s a world Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

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Amanda Bird

Layover

Iceland

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s cold as Iceland can be this time of year, it’s a hot destination, appearing in what seems to be every travel magazine and social media feed. It’s popular, but is it worth it? The short answer: yes.

Iceland is wild and outdoorsy, yet still accessible. It’s a magical place where the locals believe in elves. There are friendly horses, puffins nestled into cliff sides that plunge into the ocean, majestic glaciers, black beaches, rolling valleys, and roaring waterfalls.

And if that wasn’t awe-inspiring enough, you can also watch the dance of the northern lights and dip in the numerous hot springs and geothermal pools. Kids roam freely, and babies nap outdoors, making it a dream destination for families.

Iceland is an easy destination to cross off your bucket list, thanks in large part to its location between North America and Europe and the stopover options offered by many major airlines to encourage visitors. Icelandair has offered a stopover in Iceland for no additional fees since the 1960s, and Iceland’s low-cost carrier WOW air’s stopover option is now available on round-trip flights between North America, Europe, and Asia, in either direction.

IF YOU HAVE ONE DAY:

Whether you’re staying for a few hours or 10 days, the first stop on your layover should be the Blue Lagoon (www. bluelagoon.com), a geothermal spa. Almost every tourist who visits Iceland visits the Blue Lagoon, and there’s a reason: the warm, mysteriously aqua-colored, murky water swallows any aches, pains, or worries. The Blue Lagoon is located 20 minutes from the Keflavik International Airport. Reservations for a specific day and time are required, so plan at least two weeks ahead. Children under two years old are not permitted to swim and will have to hang with other non-swimmers in the nearby restaurants, cafes, or outdoor courtyard. Bring a swim diaper for any children who aren’t toilet trained (because everything in Iceland is expensive!).

Budget at least four hours for your stay to allow plenty of time to relax, enjoy the water, dine, and shop.

Spend any time left in the day exploring Reykjavik. Just 50 minutes away, Reykjavik is the world’s northernmost capital. Built against the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean, Reykjavik has more of a village feel than a capital city and still maintains its Scandinavian heritage in the architecture, art, and culture. Buses and hired vehicles are available from the Blue Lagoon to Reykjavik. You can purchase a City Card from Visit Reykjavik (visitreykjavik. is) for free admission to all of Reykjavik’s thermal pools, saunas, museums, galleries, and the zoo; discounts to local attractions and restaurants; and travel on local buses and the ferry to Viðey Island.

Cultural, recreational, and seasonal activities and events are plentiful; grab a free copy of “What’s On in Reykjavik” in tourism centers, hotels, and airports to check for events and updated information for the dates of your trip (also available online at www. whatson.is).

IF YOU HAVE TWO TO THREE DAYS:

Most people don’t take the opportunity to see the Reykjanes Peninsula and its rough lava fields covered in moss, craters, fissures, and geothermal mud pools, but they should. You can see

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its highlights on Iceland’s popular sightseeing route known as the Golden Circle. There are guided tours available, but they may not be ideal for families traveling with children as they often accommodate larger groups and can take longer than if you drive on your own. If you decide to drive during the summer months, watch for sheep: there are more sheep in Iceland than Icelanders. Sheep graze freely around the countryside during the summer and often wander into the road. Some sheep are skittish, but there are always those who welcome eager little hands reaching to pet them. Þingvellir National Park (www.thingvellir.is/en) is a natural wonder on an international scale and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main sights are the faults and fissures that can show your kids clear evidence of the rifting of the earth’s crust. This stop is an excellent opportunity for families to learn about Iceland’s geology through nature’s aweinspiring features.

Next, head to the Great Geysir area to explore the numerous hot springs and see the very active geyser that spouts every few minutes.

Continue to Gullfoss (gullfoss.is) to take in the enormity and ferocity of one of Iceland’s most beautiful and popular waterfalls. You will get wet! This walk down a wooden boardwalk to the roaring waterfall is not recommended for anyone who needs assistance or while carrying a baby, but you can view this waterfall by car; there’s a free parking lot located next to the waterfall.

IF YOU HAVE FOUR TO SEVEN DAYS:

If you can stretch your layover for a full week, you can see Iceland’s amazing countryside by driving the 827.7-mile Ring Road encircling the island. While this four-day drive with your children may sound daunting, stops to explore are frequent, so kids are never in the car for too long. Play “I spy” to help your kids notice the unique sights around them.

The Ring Road gets few tourists, so you’ll get a more authentic experience of Iceland. Your first stop should be Seljalandsfoss waterfall — the walk behind the waterfall is a unique experience and is safe for all ages. Skógafoss waterfall is a little further east, situated at the cliffs of the former coastline. Once you’ve seen its magnificence from the ground, head to the right to a set of about 500 steep steps. The view from the top of the waterfall is worth the extra work, but we only recommend this for sure-footed adventure seekers.

Reynisfjara beach has a striking coastline with black sand, spectacular rock formations, and numerous midsummer seabirds, and is located conveniently in the middle of the South Coast. While this beach isn’t for swimming, children will enjoy watching the birds, bouldering at the base of the rock formations, and building unique black sand castles. It can be very cold and windy, even in summer, so be sure to pack a jacket for this venture.

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PAGE 37 – SASHA64F; THIS PAGE – VITALIYMATEHA (BOTH STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

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Regardless of how long you can stay, be sure to pack a rainproof and windproof jacket, rain pants, a wool sweater, and a swimsuit so you can comfortably enjoy Iceland’s varied conditions year-round. And plan ahead for accommodations and meals! If you venture outside Reykjavik, most accommodations will be countryside hotels or guesthouses. In some of the more sparsely populated areas, there may be only one restaurant, so call ahead to let them know when you’ll be arriving. Food is expensive in Iceland, but it’s worth trying local cuisine like Skyr (a cultured dairy product that’s similar to yogurt), slow-roasted lamb, fresh-caught salmon, or a famous Icelandic hotdog.

Whether you spend 12 hours or seven days in Iceland, stopping at every attraction or lingering at only a few, you’ll leave with an unforgettable experience and with a longing for more.

Luckily, the ease of layover options offered by many airlines makes a repeat trip possible for future adventures.

BLUE LAGOON: FOAP.COM; SHEEP: IVANSKVORTSOV; IGLOO: IVAN KMIT (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

End your day at Jökulsarlón (icelagoon.is), a glacial lagoon where huge icebergs, natural sculptures broken off from glaciers, float together in the deep blue waters. The amphibian boat tour of the lagoon is an adventure not to be missed, especially with children. The only way to understand the size of these underwater mountains is to float amongst them, and it seems impossible for life to exist in this frigid environment until you see a seal pop its head above the water.

The next day, be sure to stop at the village of Húsavík (www. visithusavik.com), an area famous for whale watching. There’s nothing quite like seeing your little one’s hand reach out to point at the waves as he or she spots a whale for the first time.

If you want to view both harbour and grey seals in their natural habitat, stop at the Iceland Seal Center in Hvammstangi (www.nat.is/Museums/seal_center.htm) for information about the main locations around the country to see them. Plan your seal-watching for low tide since seals usually rest ashore at that time but feed in the open ocean during high tide. This is a great opportunity to pack a lunch and sit on the coast with your family while watching for seals, keeping a respectable distance from the sometimes aggressive creatures.

Finally, you shouldn’t leave Iceland without spending time with the native horses. On your final day on the Ring Road, take a tour by horseback at a farm such as Gauksmýri (www.gauksmyri. com), which is perfect for kids aged 8 and up. Icelandic horses are extremely friendly, so don’t be surprised if they nuzzle your neck or nibble your jacket zipper!

Skillset 42:

Building an Igloo with Kids the “Easy” Way

43:

Teach Your Child to Ski

44:

Winter Driving Preparedness

Everywhere Magazine and its writers did not receive any compensation or discounts for recommending the products mentioned here. They’re simply our favorites!

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Skillset

Genny Arredondo

Building an Igloo with Kids

The “Easy” Way M

ost kids can recall the glee of waking up on a snowy morning to learn that school was cancelled and a day of snow-filled activities stretched out before them. The novelty of creating an igloo takes snow play to the next level. Not only are igloos easy enough to construct, but they’re also sure to create wonderful memories for years to come. On your family’s next snow day, try out these easy to follow, step-by-step instructions for building an igloo with kids.

Important safety note: Adults, make sure you and your kiddos have someone with them when building and playing inside an igloo, as igloos can collapse without notice.

1. Make the footprint of your igloo. The easiest (and perhaps most fun) way to do this is by lying down in the snow and making a snow angel. The wingspan of the snow angel will be the diameter of your igloo. Limiting the diameter to this size will keep the dome of your igloo from being too difficult to shape.

2. Create your bricks. Begin creating snow bricks by packing snow into rectangular plastic storage containers or a similar makeshift brick snow mold. (We used one of Rubbermaid’s bulk storage modular canisters, and it worked great!) If you do not have a brick-sized container, you can also create bricks by stomping and packing down snow with your boots and then cutting “bricks” of snow with an Inuit snow knife or a handsaw or machete. Bricks should be between 8-12 inches in thickness to provide support.

3. Construct the igloo wall. Begin stacking bricks around the exterior edge of the flattened ground you created when you made a snow angel in step 1. Stack the bricks in a staggered pattern to create a straight circular wall. (Don’t worry about slanting them in, we’ll discuss shaping the dome later!)

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4. Stabilize your brick wall. Gently pack loose snow into the cracks between the bricks to “glue” them together. You’ll want to do this on both the inside and outside of the igloo for maximum support.

5. Create an entrance. Save room for an entrance or door into your igloo by leaving a space approximately three feet wide between the bricks on one side of your igloo. Once you have built your wall to the top height for your entrance, place a wooden board or skateboard horizontally above the door gap, supported at either end by bricks. Continue building the igloo wall on top of the board, leaving the gap for your door below.

You can leave the door open for easy access or, if you’re feeling ambitious, construct the tunnel entrance you probably picture on traditional igloos. Depending on the amount of snow and the slope of ground where the igloo is located, you might consider constructing an underground entrance into your igloo rather than an external door.

Another important safety note: If you are creating an igloo with an underground entrance and no external door, make sure there is plenty of airflow by intentionally leaving small holes between the bricks.

6. Build the igloo dome. Once you have built your igloo wall about three-quarters of the height you plan for your finished igloo, begin creating the igloo’s dome by gradually slanting the bricks slowly toward the center point. Make sure to continue packing snow between the bricks for stability and strength.

7. Top it off! When you’re ready to add the final brick, you have a few different options. You can cheat by using a domed sled upside down and covering it with snow. Or, if you have older kiddos or are up for the challenge of making a complete igloo, you can create one final brick that is slightly larger than your top hole and chisel it down to size. In order to fit the final brick in place and complete your igloo, you’ll need to have someone (preferably an adult or teen for safety reasons) enter the igloo to wiggle and shape the brick snugly into place. Pack snow around this final brick as you have with the others.

Congratulations, you’ve done it — you’ve successfully built an igloo! Your kids will undoubtedly love playing, eating snacks, or even reading a book in their new snowy fort. And remember: igloos aren’t just for kids, so grab a few cups of cocoa and join them!

Skillset

Teach Your Child to Ski

IGLOO WALL: KATIE NELSON; SNOW ANGEL: 4MAX/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; TOP THREE SKIING: ARI AGNEW; BOTTOM SKIING: CLAIRE VITUCCI

I

f you’re a skier with a young child, you’re probably already dreaming of the day you can start to plan family ski vacations to enjoy one of your favorite winter pastimes with your son or daughter by your side.

But how soon is too soon? Some kids start learning to ski before they can walk, while others need the confidence and coordination that comes with a few years of age. What you can accomplish at each age will differ from child to child and even day to day. The following hints can help maximize your chances for success.

Rent or Buy Gear for the Season. Let’s face it: ski gear (especially boots) can be uncomfortable, and adapting to different brands, fits, or even buckle styles can be frustrating. Renting different equipment each time you ski is a roll of the dice on whether your child will start the day happy and excited or full of complaints.

You can avoid this issue by finding a ski shop that offers season-long rentals of boots and skis or by purchasing used gear from a sporting gear store (even thousands of miles from the nearest mountain) for a similar price. Spend time finding gear that’s comfortable and then let your child spend the season gaining familiarity with how the gear works. Bonus: having the boots at home provides more opportunities to try them on and may be the reminder your family needs to get out on the slopes.

Practice Tried and True Techniques With Teaching Aids. Balance and positioning are tricky! Fortunately, there are great products designed to help your little one learn the basics. Try the Edgie Wedgie ($15.95) to keep ski tips together (but not too close together!) and teach your child the popular “pizza wedge” approach to turning. Pick up a Launch Pad Hookease Ski Trainer to hook your poles onto the bindings behind your kid’s boots and help control form and speed. Other parents report that they’ve had luck with harnesses, skiing side-by-side holding a ski pole like handlebars, or skiing backwards holding your child’s hands.

Getting Up is Half the Battle. Many new skiers have a reasonable fear of step one: getting to the top. Whether your ski hill uses a chair lift that swoops around from behind (and may not have the security of a lap bar that drops from overhead), a “magic carpet” that slides along the ground, a tow rope, or a “t-bar” that provides a perch for one or two skiers, expect the unfamiliar equipment to be scary and falls to be frequent. Find out ahead of time the type of equipment your destination uses and talk through what to expect, then expect to spend some time once you’re there watching other skiers and learning by example.

Consider Ski School or Lessons. Not all parents have the skills (or the patience) to teach their kids to ski. If you fall into that category, look into ski lessons. Many ski resorts offer lessons for kids as young as three, and they’ve seen what works (and what doesn’t) for countless kids. An hour-long or even a full day ski lesson for your little one will also give you the opportunity to hit a black diamond or two so you can better enjoy the bunny hill.

Skiing is Supposed to be Fun! For you, the reward of skiing might be the exhilaration of racing down a groomed run, navigating a tricky mogul field, or simply exercising your legs out in the fresh air. But a young child might require another incentive: chocolate.

Keep a pocketful of M&Ms or a favorite treat as prizes for accomplishments and encouragement through tired legs and whines or tears. (You don’t have to think of them as bribes, but...) And don’t skimp on the hot cocoa! Try following a successful run down the slopes with a mug of steaming cocoa and grabbing another cup in the lodge when the weather turns too cold, windy, or snowy for your child to be comfortable out in the elements.

Every accomplishment builds a foundation for next year, so get out there!

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Skillset

Winter Driving Preparedness S

lick roads are terrifying for even the most experienced drivers, and having your most precious cargo strapped in a car seat in the back takes the pressure up a notch. A wellstocked winter emergency kit is a must for your next winter road trip in the mountains and might even come in handy in your hometown. Sometimes even the best-laid plans (or your car on icy roads) can go a little sideways, and packing for the worstcase scenario will keep you warm and get you back on the road quickly.

• A down sleeping bag will keep you warm without running the engine if you have to wait for an extended period or are caught out overnight. Down bags are lightweight and compact so you won’t waste space storing them.

• A candle and matches or a lighter can raise the temperature in your our car by more than 10 degrees and provide a heat source to warm frozen fingers. Make sure to have enough ventilation.

• Bottles of water (preferably a gallon of water per person) and non-perishable snacks will keep you hydrated and fed while you wait for a plow or a tow.

• Wherever you go, you should have a first aid kit in case an emergency strikes and help is not right around the corner.

Make sure it’s stocked with any medications you or your family take on a daily basis.

• A folding shovel and tow rope will come in handy to help dig you out of a snowbank (or pull you out, if you’re really stuck).

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• •

• • •

•

Flares help notify other drivers of road hazards (which may include your car).

YakTraks or other boot traction devices keep your footing secure and make walking out less treacherous (although it’s often safer to stay in your vehicle to wait for help).

An ice scraper or spray window de-icer is necessary to clear your windshield of ice or frost.

Keep an extra quart of oil on hand to keep your car running in harsh winter conditions.

Jumper cables are essential to help get your car started if the battery drains. If you’ll be traveling somewhere remote, consider including a battery jump pack so you can get a dead battery running without waiting for another car to come to the rescue!

Last, but certainly not least, pack chains or other car traction devices for the most slippery road conditions (like ice and slush). Chains can make the difference between being stranded and reaching your destination and may be required by law for highway travel in certain conditions.

With these tips in mind and your winter emergency gear packed and accessible, your family should feel more confident in heading for the hills or embarking on a winter road trip, inclement weather and all.

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SNOWY ROAD: CHRISTIAN42; TIRE CHAINS: JAROSLAV MORAVCIK (BOTH STOCK.ADOBE.COM). GEAR: KATIE NELSON

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Cultural Consideration

Laura Ambrey

Visiting a Mongolian Ger I

n a place as expansive, open, and prone to extreme weather as the Mongolian steppe, the low circular shape of the traditional Mongolian ger (a felt tent sometimes called a yurt) protects against high winds that whip through the grassy flats year round.

By removing their wrapped felt layers in the spring and summer and adding more in the winter, gers aren’t just practical and versatile but downright cozy.

It’s important to note, though, that while similar, a ger is not a yurt. Subtle differences distinguish them, the most obvious being the pitch of the roof and the orientation of the door. The yurt — the word itself having a Turkish origin — has a steeper roof and an east-facing door, while the roof of a ger — which simply translates to ‘home’ in Mongolian — has a gentler slope and a door that always opens to the south.

Perfectly suited to the pastoral nomadic lifestyle of Central Asia where they originated, these moveable homes can be taken down and packed up in as little as a few hours. In a culture where many families move their herds seasonally, the length of time at each stop could vary from a few weeks to several months.

THE INS The orientation of a ger is practical but also sacred. The door faces south, away from the wind and toward the sun. The altar, where revered objects and family photos are kept, is to the north. Honored visitors and elders will also find themselves seated to the north. The west side is where tools, saddles, hunting equipment, and other household items are kept; it is also where the men sit. The east side is where the kitchen is arranged and where the women gather. Movement around the inside of the ger should follow a “sunwise” (or clockwise) pattern, following the path of the sun that shines in through the top. All of these items and movements orbit the central hearth, which provides heat and a place for cooking.

THE OUTS Arguably the most important part of a ger is the tono or roof ring. This circular, cartwheel-like wooden ring is often painted bright orange and is passed down through generations. It frames the opening at the top of the ger, allowing smoke to find its way

GER: 春华 王; GENGHIS KHAN: GUY BRYANT (BOTH STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

out through the stovepipe and bathing or two, attempting to follow the the interior with light. The roof ring is cultural ger etiquette goes a long way with your hosts: held in place by two decorative poles When approaching a ger, there called bagana. is no need to knock; in fact, it can Lattice wall panels, called khana, are typically crafted from either willow be considered rude. Instead, call, or fir and are stretched into a circular “Nokhoi Khor!,” which means, “Hold the dog!” Dogs are an important part shape with the door frame placed in of the nomadic a gap between the family, offering panels. A typical While the lands of protection to the family ger uses five family and their panels, although a Mongolia can seem herd. wealthy family may inhospitable, the It is taboo use as many as eight. to step on the Roof poles, called Mongolian people threshold when uni, are then hooked and their gers are coming and going from the roof ring to certainly not. from the ger. It the lattice walls and is also impolite are secured with to exit the ger by rope or strips of leather. Finally, the entire framework facing away from the altar or religious objects; back out instead. is covered with layers of felt.

Always move sunwise inside the ger.

VISITING A GER This may seem like common sense There are several ways to but never lean on the bagana in the experience ger living while in center of the ger.

Mongolia. High-end ger camps, Always point feet south to sleep such as Three Camel Lodge (www. and away from the hearth, the altar, threecamellodge.com) in the Gobi or another person. If possible, don’t Desert, offer more permanent gers touch anyone on the head. As with with attached bathrooms fullyother Asian cultures, the head is the equipped with toilets, sinks, and most sacred part of the body, with showers. Ayanchin Four Seasons the bottom of the feet being the least Lodge (www.ayanchinlodge.mn) in sacred and most dirty.

Terelj National Park offers gers and a Take a taste (or at least fake it) of stove tender who will stoke your ger’s all offered food, even if it’s unusual or fire throughout the night to keep you unappetizing. An empty plate or bowl warm, although shared bathrooms will be refilled. are located in the lodge. Or, if Use the right hand when reaching you’re looking for a more authentic for food from a communal plate, never experience, tour companies, VRBO, the left. And when receiving gifts, it’s and Airbnb all offer ger homestay polite to take them with the right hand options that have a definite perk: supported at the elbow with the left. getting to see and participate in the While the lands of Mongolia can day-to-day functions and movements seem inhospitable, the Mongolian in and around a ger. people and their gers are certainly not. Should an invitation be extended CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS for a meal or an overnight stay, accept The size and openness of a ger and bask in the event — gers have demand interaction between families changed very little over the centuries and their guests. It also requires and will hopefully remain unchanged cooperation in order to make the for centuries more. space functional. While an outsider would no doubt be forgiven a mistake

A MAN MISUNDERSTOOD

A

lthough his means are remembered as hostile, Genghis Khan set the stage for an era of relative peace, ruling with a level of tolerance unique for his time. It comes as no surprise, then, that Genghis Khan is a source of pride for the Mongolian people and to this day is revered for his many accomplishments.

Born over 800 years ago, Genghis Khan (as the Western world knows him) is known as Chinggis Khan in Mongolia — or better yet, as the “Man of the Millenium,” as he was dubbed by the Washington Post in 1955.

With the aid of a captured Uyghur scribe, Chinggis brought literacy to the Mongolian empire by adapting the Uyghur alphabet to a written Mongol script. He chose the Uyghur script rather than Chinese characters because he found the Chinese system overly difficult to learn and feared this would slow the progress of achieving a literate nation.

He created the Yassa (also known as the Zasag), a secret code of law that all Mongolians were expected to follow. Keeping the code secret meant it could be used and changed at the enforcer’s discretion, but it had three main points: punishment of wrongdoing (often by beheading), total obedience to Chinggis Khan, and a unification of the nomadic clans.

Chinggis Khan created the first national postal and messenger system using horse relay stations.

The system relied on tens of thousands of horses to send messages and intelligence reports and became a route for travelers, officials, and foreign ambassadors as well.

Chinggis saw a potential for violence in religious intolerance and therefore granted religious freedom to everyone. A Tengrist himself, he believed there were important lessons to be learned from other religions and consulted the teachings of Buddhist and Taoist monks, Christian missionaries, and Muslims in his personal faith.

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Feature

Ali Nelson

Yurt Ambitions

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A

s parents of an energetic 4-year-old, we approach trip planning as one part dream, one part crazy, and five parts organization.

After living in Idaho for over a decade, the yurts north of Idaho City (about an hour and a half northeast of Boise) have become one of our favorite “backyard” adventures. The Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation rents out six yurts, each one combining the adventure of the great outdoors with shelter from the elements. We have only ventured there in the winter, although they’re rented year-round and can be reached on foot, mountain bike, or horseback once the snow has melted. And we’ve only been to the yurts with other adults. But wouldn’t it be an incredible adventure for our 4-year-old, a rough-and-tumble kid high on energy who has grown up in the dirt and fresh air on the mountain we call home? He loves camping and joins me with other moms and kids on an annual summer backpacking trip.

How much could taking him on a winter-time yurt adventure up the degree of difficulty? Quite a bit, apparently.

A simplistic kitchen counter constructed of unfinished wood had a sink basin with “plumbing” that emptied to a bucket to catch the wastewater generated by hand-washing and dishes. We were happy to find the yurt stocked with basic cookware, plates, bowls, and utensils; this one even had a Dutch oven. Knowing this, we won’t settle on our next visit for the “just-add-water” freeze-dried meals that make meal prep effortless but don’t always deliver on flavor.

Our yurt was furnished with beds for all six in our group, including two twin-sized bunk beds lining the walls of the round

ONE PART DREAM: Our Pre-Kids Yurt Experience On our last visit, the 1.4-mile trek from the trailhead didn’t seem too strenuous. The snow crunched beneath our snowshoes as the six of us set off on the trail. It had been a few days since the last snow, so the trail laid by the snowshoers who came before us was easy to follow. It wasn’t necessary to follow the blazes (brightly-colored, diamond-shaped placards marking the trail from well above the snowline), but they reassured us that we were headed in the right direction. We wore the internal frame backpacks we’re accustomed to carrying on summertime trails, stocked full of everything we’d need for our stay. We were lucky to have bright, sunny skies and little wind, so the journey was as pleasant as could be expected. Spotting the yurt on the skyline was at first encouraging, then progressively less so as 10 minutes of walking barely increased the size of the small, domed structure.

But we pushed on and were well rewarded once we reached the yurt. It was primitive but just what we needed — a shelter from the elements and a veritable home for our night out. And the view: set atop a ridge, the horizon was made up of mountains in every direction with no other signs of civilization in sight.

We entered the yurt using the code for the combination door lock emailed to us with our permit and were pleased to find it was still warm from the previous night’s occupants. Newspaper, kindling, and firewood were well-stocked near the woodstove, and we set to work building a fire. Thanks to the still-glowing embers in the stove, our fire lit easily and the tight quarters warmed quickly; in fact, by the wee hours our sleeping bags were unzipped and the windows cracked to allow in the frigid air.

A wooden table and chairs for dining and gathering sat in the center of the room. The architecture of the roof supports is complex, obviously engineered for structural integrity but beautiful in the simplicity of its lines.

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structure plus a futon, each with a simple foam mattress. We dropped our gear on the bunks that seemed like they’d work best for our needs: the heat-lover on the top bunk closest to the woodstove, the light sleeper and the heavy breather as far apart as possible.

As we explored around the outside, we found a picnic table almost completely covered in snow. We’d heard rumor of a fire ring as well, but it was long lost under the snowpack. An outhouse sat a few hundred feet away facing away from the yurt.

We propped open the door to the outhouse to allow the fresh,

cool air inside and transform it into a room with a view, making a midnight pit stop breathtaking (both literally and figuratively).

We played cards by headlamp until late, ice-cold drinks in hand from the natural cooler outside.

The trail map showed a knoll to the north that would make an incredible destination for a moonlit hike. I vividly recall walking with a friend the mile between my home and hers, guided by nothing but the moon shining brightly enough to cast shadows through the trees and illuminate the snow, and I always look for opportunities to recreate that ethereal experience. But the

ONE PART CRAZY: Return, Plus One Fast forward a few years, and all of our trip planning for two has transformed into planning for three. We’ve booked probably 20 round-trip tickets for our son over the past four years and packed in outdoor adventures whenever possible. We generally think we can take him anywhere. Why not a night out in a yurt in the middle of winter? It was the right amount of crazy — just our style.

FIVE PARTS ORGANIZATION: How Planning a Trip with Kids to the Same Place Would Differ

temperature dropped precipitously after the sun fell behind the western ridge; clear skies generally go hand in hand with exceptionally cold nights in these parts. As hard as I tried, I couldn’t convince any takers to leave the cozy shelter. Watching the stars from the yurt’s small deck would have to do.

For the same price we could have paid elsewhere to rent a two-star hotel, the million-star view alone made the trip worthwhile. I pinched myself and was pleased to find that it wasn’t a dream.

To successfully transform our previous adults-only excursion into a family-friendly trip, we’d a lot of logistics ahead of us.

Covering the Distance. The mileage should be doable, but hiking uphill in the snow with a 4-year-old in tow while also carrying our gear would make the distance feel vastly greater than the training hikes we’ve taken on our neighborhood trails and roads. There’s no way to tell whether he’d want to run ahead on the trail, looping back to us and then running ahead again just as our dogs are apt to do on a hike, or sit down after 500 feet and refuse to take another step. While backpacking has taught me how to carry a kid on my front and a pack on my back for short stretches (which is generally enough to break a slump and change the mood back to one of excitement), using the same technique in winter wear and the sometimes precarious footing of snowshoes would be less effective and less safe for everyone involved. We would need to rig a sled with a makeshift harness that could pull some of our heavier gear and provisions — and the four-year-old, in case expecting him to cover the entire distance on his own proved unrealistic and the occasional snowball fight, detour to check out a cool tree, race to the top of the next ridge, or favorite snacks fell short of getting us to the finish line. In any event, a sled would be a nice addition to our adventure and would provide us the opportunity for a little thrill-seeking entertainment once we reached our destination.

Allowing Enough Time. We’d need to leave earlier and allow more time. On their last wintertime snowshoe trip to a rented shelter, our friends Joe, Emily, and their 5- and 9-year-olds ended up hiking in the dark. “That was a bad move on so many levels,” recounts Joe. Hiking after dark poses the obvious risks of getting lost or having to overnight outside. It’s also problematic as it interferes with dinner time and asks kids to perform the already Herculean task of hiking after they’ve exhausted most of the day’s energy stores.

Getting a Good Night’s Sleep. Sleeping in a single-room structure would be more complicated as well. Cell phones (set on airplane mode, as no signal could be found for miles) should be fully-charged, pre-loaded with our favorite white noise app installed to help dampen the inevitable sounds of snoring and post-child-bedtime conversation. Our portable power bank and Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

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lightweight solar charger that had always seemed an unnecessary any minute requires extras of everything (whether for bathroom luxury on longer trips when weight was at a premium would be emergencies or simply spills and mud puddles), down to a second worth their weight in gold here. Add in headphones pair of gloves so playing in the snow today doesn’t lead to in case the white noise wasn’t enough and voilà: frozen fingers tomorrow on the hike out. Our son’s The Sesame Street music or *gasp* an episode would favorite cotton t-shirt would have to go, replaced architecture of be on hand as a last resort. We could hang with a synthetic layer to make sure getting a sheet from the top bunk to create a cozy wet from the elements or the exertion of the the roof supports bedtime fort shielded from view of the adults adventure wouldn’t lead to chills. is complex, obviously staying up for more fun. And we consider Staying Found. We generally pull out all engineered for structural earplugs for everyone else a necessity, just in the stops for safety anyway, but minimizing integrity but beautiful case our child was the source of disruption risks is most important with our favorite tiny in the simplicity of its instead of the target. human at the head of the pack. We would need Staying Warm & Dry. Having the right clothes to set up the Avenza app that would use our cell lines. is rarely more important than for backcountry phone’s GPS feature even without cell service or adventures, at least in terms of function over form. For an internet connection, buy or print an actual paper solo trips or adventures with other adults, we rarely pack extras topographical map covering the area in case our electronic and just assume we’ll make do. But the wild card a kid can play at route-finding tools failed, and pack our Spot satellite messenger

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that could call in search and rescue if need be (and also, with the push of a button, send reassurance to our loved ones at home via a pre-programmed message). The Mountaineers’ Ten Essentials list for backcountry travel could help us triple check that we weren’t forgetting anything, like those little sunglasses (not only for comfort but also safety, as the reflexivity of light from the snow can lead to temporary snow blindness) and the sunscreen that’s so easily forgotten when it’s only 20°F (-6.7°C ) outside.

Providing Motivation. We couldn’t forget the snacks! We’d need all of the high-reward treats we could find: Oreos, gummy bears, granola bars, chocolates, Tootsie Pops, and trail mix. The calories and sugar might legitimately provide a much-needed boost of energy on the trail and could provide a missing incentive to continue onward. We’d want hot cocoa as well to warm our hands and celebrate our arrival.

Planning for Bathroom Breaks. Using an outhouse with a small child is difficult at best, and the process would not be made easier trying to keep snow pants and gloves from falling into the void below, guided only by flashlight. Packing extra toilet paper, extra hand sanitizer, and a small battery-powered lantern that could hang on a hook or sit on a shelf or the floor was the best we could do, and we’d just have to figure out the rest when the time came.

Staying Flexible. Lowering our expectations would perhaps be the most important thing we could plan to do. Our pre-parent selves would “git ‘er done” at all costs, but we’ve learned over the years that even the best-laid plans don’t always work out the way we expect when children are involved. Having a backup plan in place or even being satisfied with not reaching our destination has saved many a trip in our family.

It’s all about the journey, and it starts long before taking that first step on the trail.

HOW TO RENT A YURT

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urts for rent can be found in several state parks in the Northwest, from locations on the Oregon Coast that are accessible by car to locations in the backcountry accessible only by trail. Some are managed by a state park system, others by a federal agency like the U.S. Forest Service, and yet others by privately-owned resorts or retreats. The following websites are great starting points for finding a yurt available for rent: •

State park sites – Idaho Department of Parks & Recreation (parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/activities/ yurts), Oregon State Parks (oregonstateparks.org/index. cfm?do=reserve.dsp_cabinsyurts), and Utah State Parks (stateparks.utah.gov/activities/camping/yurts) are just a few; try other states as well!

•

Recreation.gov (www.recreation.gov) – search “Yurt” and filter for “Camping”, then use the map to navigate a specific area.

•

Rental companies specializing in unique accommodations – search Glamping Hub (glampinghub.com) for your destination, then filter “Types of glamping” for “Yurts”.

•

Other vacation rental sites – these sites don’t generally filter for yurts, so get creative; for example, search for “site:www.airbnb.com yurt”, “site:www.vrbo.com yurt”, or “site:www.vrbo.com yurt”.

•

Online directories – check out Yurt Lodging (www.yurtlodging.com/stay.htm).

Like many adventures that are accessible without specialized gear or prior experience, yurt camping has become a popular retreat. Reservations are often booked nine months to a year in advance, as soon as dates are released, so plan ahead!

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Feature

Life

Au Pair

Fiona Croucher

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remember it vividly: I’m still in my pajamas with a screaming baby, a 2-year-old wearing her breakfast, and a preschooler that should’ve been at school 10 minutes ago, as my husband reluctantly walks out the door for an early meeting — another morning of chaos familiar to all moms of little kids. The early days with three children under 5 years old were a blur of crying, feeding, not sleeping, and struggling to get through the days.

When our first baby was born, my husband, Jon, worked in the family textiles business and had a busy but flexible schedule.

By the third baby, he had taken over the company, worked six days a week at the office, and kept working when he got home and on Sundays. He was determined to make the business a success.

But I was effectively solo parenting.

I went back to work part time after the first two babies. Child care was a jumble of day care centers, family day care, Grandma’s house, and before- and after-school care. It was expensive, I was late for work every day, and Jon and I had no time for ourselves.

If my child was sick, outside care wasn’t an option, which meant I had to take a day off work. We also had Jon’s two young teenage children living with us every second week, and although they didn’t need the same level of care as our small children, I still had to drive them to activities, attend school events, and double all the recipes. As parents, we were significantly outnumbered, and we often found that caring for all of the kids required us to be in at least three places at once.

When considering my return to work after the third baby, Jon brought up the idea of hiring an au pair. An au pair is a young adult, usually from another country, who lives with a host family for 3–12 months and helps with childcare in exchange for a small wage, a room, meals, and the experience of living in another country and culture. We had recently bought a bigger house so we could accommodate another person and, as a traveler and backpacker, I have enjoyed hosting people from other countries in our home. We decided to do some research and conduct a trial run before I went back to work.

That third baby is 4 now, and he’s had au pairs care for him nearly his entire life. He has never been to daycare, instead spending his days at home and at the park learning to count and sing in other languages and having one-on-one care with someone who lives with us as a temporary family member. My older girls don’t have to wake up at 6 a.m. to get to before-school care, and I can leave in my own time on the days that I work. The au pair is responsible for waking the children, handling the morning routine, walking the older girls to school, taking care of my toddler all day, and collecting the girls from school in the afternoon. On Thursday evenings she cooks dinner, and on Saturday mornings she looks after the kids while I go to a running group.

This sounds like a luxury, and people often assume we are rich when we talk about our life with an au pair — but it’s quite the opposite. With two kids at school, one at home, and me working three days a week, having an au pair costs us around half of what it would cost for out of home care. In addition, an au pair can also babysit the occasional evening or help out a few hours per week, so I can do a child-free grocery shop or go to a gym

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n au pair is a young adult, usually from another country, who lives with a host

family for 3–12 months and helps with childcare in exchange for a small wage, a room, meals, and the experience of living in another country and culture.

class. It is a bit more complicated and costly in the U.S. — au pairs and families can only connect through approved agencies that charge hefty fees to cover background and qualification checks and orientation programs. This system can make the program feasible only for higher income-earners. Child care outside the home is charged per child, whereas an au pair’s wages are the same for one child or a few children. As a result, an au pair can be more cost-effective for larger families.

We have hosted au pairs from several European countries and most recently Québec, Canada. Over time, I have seen nonnative speakers improve their English, become more confident, learn skills in living away from home, and make new friends.

They discover an Australian way of life — the European girls find it unusual that we eat dinner at 5 or 6 p.m. since in Europe they often don’t eat their last meal until 9 or 10 p.m. They experience a different school system and celebrate Christmas without snow for the first time.

Most of them return home with a much broader view of the world than is held by their friends who went straight from high school to university or employment. Au pair Martina, 19, said she wasn’t sure how she could go back to Italy after having this experience. When she arrived in her small town after a year abroad, she felt that she didn’t have much in common with her group of friends anymore who were still doing the same things as when she left. Martina was home only a few weeks before she was accepted by the highly regarded University of Milan and is currently there studying languages and translation. Au pair Sophia, 21, decided not to go to university (as her parents had expected) but instead applied to join the German police force.

She was so confident in her application interview that she was selected as one of 190 cadets from over 1,000 applicants, worlds apart from the shy high school senior we had met over Skype just a year before.

Most au pairs cite language immersion as a significant motivation for applying for the job. Many want to follow career paths requiring them to be fluent in English, such as working for an airline or international business. Others do it as a means to travel. Triin, 35, says, “I knew I would not be able to afford going to the States as a tourist, so picking up a job there was a way for me to go. Becoming an au pair was even better, as I could live with locals and get the real experience of a local life.” Triin was born and raised in Estonia but now speaks fluent English with

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an amusing variety of local slang words picked up during her time living and working in the U.S., Australia, New Zealand, and Canada. Being an au pair in the U.S. allowed her to pay off her student loans and take classes at the local college. Triin picked up photography as well as the travel bug; she says “being an au pair made me appreciate a different kind of travel — travel that involves locals — seeing and living the local culture from within.”

Triin is currently backpacking in Chile, her first time without a job in 11 years of continuous travel.

Before leaving for Australia, Maxine, 19, from Montreal had never lived away from her parents and wanted to challenge herself. “Being an au pair has taught me to be responsible and rely on myself. [Now] I can cook, clean, … do my own laundry, and keep my room tidy. It has also helped me mature a lot because roles are reversed: no one’s looking after me [and] I am looking after other people,” she observes. “It’s an experience everyone should try; it puts you completely out of your comfort zone, without your friends and family in a country that doesn’t

speak your language. There’s no better way to learn what you like and dislike or to see what you’re made of.”

Alice, 25, from Italy fell into au pairing when she found herself in Australia without a job and short on money. She says: “I want to see as many places as I can and [this way] I am sure to have a job and a home when I arrive; it’s great!” Alice didn’t expect to love the children and miss them so much when it was time to move on and found it so much more than just a job, declaring “It’s been the best experience of my life!”

But au pair exchanges don’t always work out as expected.

Marriages have broken up due to affairs between au pairs and husbands, and au pairs may leave their families on short notice if they feel they are being used as a domestic servant or were simply not getting along with the family. Of course, the host families are often equally to blame when an au pair relationship sours.

Sometimes it’s just the circumstances.

Even these less than ideal au pair experiences still have something to be gained. Although uncomfortable at the time, the experiences teach the au pairs to grow and become resilient, independent, and self reliant.

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Sarah, now 44, worked in London as an au pair in her early 20s. She welcomes the modern (and more regulated) au pair industry, having only lasted two months due to working 12 hour days, five days per week, doubling the current regulated hours. She felt overworked and isolated. But she comments that it’s easier for au pairs now to find friends, as “you can find Facebook groups and connect with other au pairs in the area, and if it doesn’t work out with your host family, you can easily find another one.” Sarah left her first and only au pair position and moved to a smaller city where she found a retail job she really enjoyed. To this day, she feels proud that she was able to walk away from a situation that wasn’t working for her and find another job and place to live.

Emily, 23, from Montana says, “In Australia, raising children

Au pair regulations are different all over the world.

USA: Foreign au pairs require a J-1 visa that is only available by applying through one of 16 approved agencies. Host families pay agency fees in addition to “pocket money” for au pairs. The agency organizes everything from flights to orientation programs.

Australia: Australia requires au pairs to obtain a 417 Working Holiday Visa or 462 Work and Holiday Visa, which are only available to visitors from eligible countries. Conditions of employment are negotiable and organized between the au pair and the host family, either directly via the internet or through an agency.

Canada: A Working Holiday Visa is required. Au pairs can then find a family online and organize the details or use an agency.

UK/Europe: is different from [in] the United States; there are different norms and expectations that you have to learn very quickly. In particular, my experience has taught me how to stand up for myself. My host family would ask me to do things I wasn’t comfortable doing and I hadn’t agreed to [do]. I was able to say no when it would have been easier to say yes.” Life as an au pair is an experience that I hope my children will consider before they become absorbed into adulthood.

Four years of having the flexibility of another adult in the house has paid off in multiple ways. My husband still works some nights but his hard work shows, and things are going really well. His older children are more independent, finishing high school and learning to drive, and our younger three are now all in school. Our plan is that in a couple of years, his staff can run the business, and we can do some extended travel with the kids. Hiring au pairs for our childcare has been instrumental to us in reaching this goal.

Life as an au pair, and with one, certainly has its perks.

Regulations differ between countries, but generally, a Work Visa and a satisfactory knowledge of the local language are required. EU nationals can move between countries without a visa.

Some countries require au pairs and families to sign contracts.

Specific information for each country is available at www.aupairworld.com and www.aupair.com and on many other websites and Facebook pages.

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Feature

Darcy Tuscano

TAST E O F

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hen first-time travelers come to Spain, they typically think of Barcelona, Madrid, Seville, and Granada, the country’s most famous cities with their legendary sites and emblematic architecture. Naturally, I planned on taking my entire extended family to a place I only vaguely knew of myself.

Until recently, I hadn’t even heard of Cádiz. But once I discovered the small, seaside, typical Andalusian city and its membership in the Most Ancient European Towns Network, I knew I had to go see for myself just what wonders awaited us in this walled city on the bay.

As a lover of archeology and history, I was drawn to Cádiz with her 3,100-year-old remains left behind by the various layers

amazing seafood, various museums of history and archeology, boutique shopping, and a laid back casual pace of life.

What it’s not famous for? Tourism. Not yet, anyway. But that’s about to change as it’s now earned a place on the 2019 New York Times “Places to Go.” That’s not to say it’s not set up for tourists — it’s an incredibly compact, tourist-friendly city — but it isn’t constantly brimming with other English-speaking tourists like Barcelona or Seville. It’s the kind of place where the locals all seem to know each other, stopping to chat in the narrow, romantic alleys of the Old Town or meeting at the seaside to walk under the palm trees lining the beaches featuring aquamarine, nearly tropical waters.

of history. Founded by the Phoenicians over 3,000 years ago, Cádiz was later conquered by the Romans and considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in all of Western Europe. But for those who would rather live in the present than explore the past, Cádiz is also famous for its massive, sandy stretches of beaches, the Old Town Historic Center with stone buildings and winding streets leading to expansive plazas,

Cádiz, practically an island, is surrounded by the Atlantic on three sides and juts out into the sea, making it rather easy to circumnavigate either by foot or bike. For our travel party consisting of aging but moderately physically fit grandparents, sporty middleaged parents, and 8-year-old twins with enough energy to outlast us all, we decided the best way to see the most famous sites and get a true feeling for the city was to explore by cycling.

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After a typical Andalucian breakfast of cafe con leche (strong coffee with milk) served with tostada con tomate (toasted baguette spread with tomato, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with salt), we set out to pick up our bikes at Urban Bike Cádiz (www. urbanbikecadiz.es/en). I had reserved the bikes in advance to guarantee we’d have enough for everyone. Urban Bikes Cádiz offers a well-regarded bike tour that I had hoped to take but decided we might do better biking with the grandparents on our own, with more freedom for breaks as necessary.

Biking around Cádiz is a relaxing affair, as a completely separate bike path travels around two-thirds of the island. Not having to worry about traffic with the kids on bikes was a very

liberating experience, and I could simply focus on the sights that surrounded me as the sea breeze whipped through my hair.

Cycling through Alameda Apodaca, a seaside park sprinkled with lovely tiled fountains, we paused briefly under the shade of an orange tree to watch a massive cruise ship departing in the distance. As we watched it sail away, we talked about how Christopher Columbus and his fleet of 17 ships had sailed from

this exact port at the end of the 15th century setting out on his second voyage for the New World.

The city is known for one particularly amazing shady green space we soon reached: Park Genoves, a magical botanical garden with an incredible variety of exotic plants and flowers including birds of paradise, hibiscus flowers, and trees that looked as if Dr. Seuss had taken over the garden’s design. We also spotted the famous giant ficus trees that Christopher Columbus reportedly brought back to Spain from the Americas.

While squawking green parrots chattered above our heads in the palms, we took a rest in one of the many cafes inside the gardens. Nearby, the kids ran free in the playground while ducks darted in and out of the fountains.

Here at the edge of the gardens, watching the waves of the Atlantic smashing against the ancient and crumbling sea walls, I regaled my children with stories about the recent discovery of a submerged city north of Cádiz. As the sea spray misted my face, we dared ourselves to believe the fable of the lost city of Atlantis being found not far away in the vast mud flats and marshlands of the nearby nature reserve, Doñana Ana Park. It wasn’t too difficult to imagine a powerful tsunami wave swallowing everything up and leaving a mystery behind.

Refueled by more rich coffee, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and Spanish pastries — breakfast #2 in the true Spanish style, as lunch is mid-afternoon around these parts — we set off again with our sights on the Castle of San Sebastián. Since it shares the same name (minus the saint) of one of my twin boys, we were all excited to tour the castle. Inexplicably, the castle was closed that day, and we could only gaze out through the metal gate to the structure beyond.

Originally built as a Temple to the Greek God Kronos (father of Zeus — and there’s that link to the Lost City of Atlantis again) and later serving as a fortress defending and protecting the northern part of the city from attack, it is now a popular tourist attraction.

We settled for a quick (and free) self-guided tour of the nearby Castle of Santa Catalina, a relatively minuscule fortress as far as castles go, but this one has a twist: built in the shape of a star, it features local art exhibits inside some of the buildings.

The kids had a blast climbing along the perimeter of the castle walls, talking of fabled pirates of the past. The location gave us an immense appreciation for the importance of Cádiz as a defense city, port, trading hub, and Naval base.

With the June sun beating down at nearly 1 p.m. (an early but perfectly acceptable Spanish lunchtime), we wandered to nearby Calle Virgen de la Palma, an old fisherman’s neighborhood known for its fish dishes and tapas bars. We sampled true Cádiz specialties such salmorejo (a cold, creamy tomato-rich soup similar to Spanish gazpacho); croquetas de jamon (piping hot fried fritters stuffed with ham, cheese, and potato); and boquerones (anchovies), both in vinegar and fried.

Our favorite for foodies was La Tabernita (www.facebook. com/RafaTabernita); this tiny bar is relatively new and incredibly popular, so try to get there before the crowds and say hi to the chef (who also happens to be the owner Rafa’s mom)! Rafa is an expert in local wines and sherries, and this is a great place to sample some regional drinks. Our standout favorites were the tortitas de camarones (fried shrimp fritters) Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

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and albóndigas de choco (cuttlefish meatballs) — but honestly, everything here was fresh and delicious.

Also not to be missed, both for eclectic ambience and succulent jamón Ibérico (Iberian ham) is nearby Casa Manteca (www.facebook.com/tabernamanteca), arguably Cádiz’s most famous bar. We jostled for space as we dove into our platters of local meats and cheese — I highly suggest the house specialty of chicharrones (pressed pork served on wax paper), and the Payoyo goat cheese served with asparagus jam — but made sure to take time and admire the surroundings as well.

The bar is run by the two brothers of a retired matador (bullfighter), and the decor is chock full of matador memorabilia: hundreds of photos from the carnival of Cádiz and even a wacky upside-down portrait of Franco, the now-deceased (and muchhated) dictator, which prompted us to conduct a Google-inspired history lesson of Spain’s past.

The concept of siesta is alive and well in southern Spain, and we found everyone enjoying a long, leisurely lunch followed by a lot of lounging. Taking our cue, we made our way to La Caleta Beach.

All of the beaches in and around Cádiz have won blue ribbons for cleanliness and the local’s beach of La Caleta, directly in the center of the Old Town, is no exception. While it can be extremely crowded in high season, we found plenty of space to stretch out. The “new” city beaches of Santa María del Mar or La Victoria are also a perfect place to spread out or watch the local surfers. Blessed by a curved half-circle inlet, La Caleta is a low-key, safe, and sandy beach that is perfect for kids. It sports a

gorgeously-preserved white bathhouse dating from 1926 where we used the changing facilities and restrooms. While the kids and I had the amazing luck to explore the tidal pools exposed at low tide, the grandparents and my wife sat nearby at Bar Club Caleta enjoying icy cold drinks and a plate of fresh razor clams. While we had heard that this beach is amazing for sunset views, the sun doesn’t set until nearly 10 p.m., even in early June. We had to pass on the temptation of sundowners or else we’d never leave!

Our next stop took into account the hot sun outside — we had the opportunity to spend time exploring an ancient city in the cool dark rooms of Yacimiento Arqueológico Gadir (turismo. cadiz.es/en/rutas-y-visitas-en-cadiz/gadir-archaeologicalsite) where an ancient Phoenician city has been unearthed, complete with layouts of the streets, houses, and artifacts from the 9th century B.C. The guides were great with our children and pointed out curious objects to keep them engaged, including a cat skeleton, my boys’ favorite as they pondered Phoenicians 3,000 years ago also having pets. While the museum is free, tours are offered only on the hour and are limited to 25 people, so reservations in advance are necessary. Be aware of closures on Sunday and during siesta.

After returning our bikes and freshening up at our small guesthouse, Alquimia Hotel (www.alquimiahostelcadiz.com), we hopped over to the nearby modern gastropub, Balandro (www. restaurantebalandro.com/index2.asp), for an early dinner. The innovative menu (a combination of Spanish, Asian, and Middle Eastern tastes) had something for everyone. We ate at the bar, which was hectic but also quite fun. Even at the 8 p.m. opening Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

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hour for dinner, the place was packed with both kids and adults.

We considered continuing the night — the city has fantastic bars, clubs, and flamenco joints — but were too wiped out, even with the offer of grandparents babysitting, to continue our evening.

Our second morning in Cádiz, we explored the ancient narrow streets and hit Plaza de la Libertad near Mercado Central for a sweeter Spanish-style breakfast. Fronting the market are churro stalls lining the square, selling these sweet delicacies similar to a funnel cake but with thicker batter cut into strips. My kids and I love eating these Spanish-style by dipping them into cups of rich, warm chocolate. As we lazily savored our churros and chocolate, we watched as the market began busily buzzing with locals buying their fresh fish and produce and going about the day.

A true feeling of the importance of this former fortified city is evoked by climbing the Tavira Tower, the highest point in Cádiz with spectacular panoramic views. We booked a guided tour so we could experience the periscope that projects images of the city onto the camera obscura. This was quite possibly my kids’ favorite activity (besides bike riding) and one they still talk about today.

The 18th century Cádiz Cathedral isn’t much from the outside, but we were here for the views above. The extra challenge to our legs was rewarded by views from atop the cathedral that afforded us closer photo ops of the nearby water with the dramatic backdrop of enormous church bells.

Close by are the Roman Theatre ruins, recently discovered (in archaeological terms) in the 1980s, which date back to the 1st century B.C. and held 2,000 people. The city now holds concerts and performances in the theatre.

With the clock ticking, we wound our way through the alleyways past open squares to Plaza de las Flores, where flower vendors peddle their wares. But I wasn’t after flowers; I wanted what is said to be the best fried fish in Cádiz at the Freiduría Las Flores. We opted to get it to go and walked away with a snacksized paper cone, popping light and delicious fried fish into our mouths. It is without a doubt the best — and it’s not the last time I’ll be tasting it because I’m already making plans to return to Cádiz.

BEST TIME TO VISIT Southern Spain is blessed with sunny blue skies and warm temperatures all year round. Even in the winter, it’s not uncommon to experience temperatures in the high 60s, with nights cooling off in the 50s. While there’s no bad time to visit, July and August (when all of Spain and beyond descends upon the coastline) often have crowded beaches and sweltering heat.

HOW TO GET TO CÁDIZ Cádiz is located near the tip of southern Spain to the west of Gibraltar and is only one hour 40 minutes from Seville by car or high-speed train. Cádiz is an excellent weekend trip for families already touring around southern Spain.

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Insider’s Guide to Grand Cayman

Insider’s Guide

PHOTO © MANDY MOONEYHAM

W

hen we imagine paradise, we think of the picturesque Cayman Islands, full of warm Caribbean breezes, beckoning white sand beaches that stretch for miles, amazing food, and fun for the entire family. Three sister islands make up this British overseas territory located in the western Caribbean Sea, south of Cuba and west of Jamaica: Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman.

Originally named Las Tortugas by Christopher Columbus in 1503, the islands were on the map by 1530 as Caimanas, named after the crocodiles found there in abundance. Now, only Smiley, the resident crocodile at the Cayman Turtle Centre, remains.

Fun Fact: Call it Cayman, The Cayman Islands, or Grand Cayman but NEVER “The Caymans”. Cayman should not be plural!

Fun Fact: The Cayman Islands is pronounced the way you’ve always heard it: CAYmun. If you say Cayman by itself, it becomes CayMAN! Not-so-Fun Fact: The Cayman Islands dollar is tied to the US dollar at a rate of 1:1.25, meaning everything costs 25% more for those using USD.

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1

Conch Point

Boatswain’s Beach

Barker Cay Head of Barkers Morgan’s Harbour

North West Point Public Beach

5

7

Rum Point Stingray City

6

2 NORTH SOUND Seven Mile Be ach

The North Sound Club

Governors House

WEST BAY

3

LITTLE SOUND

(Golf Course)

Booby Cay Brittania Golf Course

OWEN ROBERTS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

GEORGE TOWN

4

BODDEN TOWN Civic Centre

Hospital

Smith Cove

Prospect Point

South West Point Sand Cay

BODDE SPOTTS BAY

Conch Point Boatswain’s Beach

Barker Cay Head of Barkers Morgan’s Harbour

Rum Point Stingray City

North West Point Public Beach Post Office

NORTH SOUND WEST BAY

Seven Mile Beach

1. CAYMAN TURTLE CENTRE Despite the controversy surrounding this working turtle farm that has been raising and harvesting now-endangered green sea turtles since the 1500s, the Cayman Turtle Centre remains a popular destination. While the local Caymanians are more interested in eating turtle soup, tourists flock here to cool off from the tropical heat by diving into the Centre’s saltwater swimming pool or Turtle Lagoon. Snorkel gear is available at the edge of the lagoon and is a great place for kids to learn to snorkel without waves while still experiencing the wonder of wildlife found on tropical reefs. The Turtle Centre has released thousands of turtles into the wild and offers visitors the opportunity to get up close and personal with this endangered species. www.turtle.ky

Governors House

OLD MAN BAY

SPOTTER BAY

Long Coconut Point

Town Hall

Police Station

The North Sound Club

LITTLE SOUND

(Golf Course)

NORTH SIDE COLLIERS BAY

Booby Cay

EAST END

Brittania Golf Course

Botanic Park Police OWEN ROBERTS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

GEORGE TOWN Smith Cove

Civic Centre FRANK SOUND

BODDEN TOWN

Prospect Point

South West Point Sand Cay

Post Office

Lighthouse East Point

Civic Centre

Hospital

BODDEN BAY SPOTTS BAY

2. SEVEN MILE BEACH With too many awards to list here, Seven Mile Beach is Cayman’s most famous beach, and it’s easy to see why. You can stroll on nearly seven miles of perfect white sand or stop and play in the gentle waves. When there’s not a storm, the water is perfect for family fun, lounging, snorkeling, free diving, paddle boarding, sailing catamarans, and more. Staying on Seven Mile isn’t necessary to gain access; just watch for the signs pointing out public access or drive up to Governor’s Beach (next to the Government House and near The Westin) or the Public Beach with pirate-themed playground equipment.

West Bay Road, SMB, Grand Cayman All beaches in Cayman are open to the public, but fees may apply to use chairs, water toys, and other equipment.

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PAGE 73 – MANDY MOONEYHAM; THIS PAGE – MAP & CAMANA BAY: CAYMAN ISLANDS DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM; TURTLE, SMITH COVE, & RUM POINT: KATIE KRUITHOF; BEACH, FREE DIVE, & STINGRAY: MANDY MOONEYHAM

3. CAMANA BAY For a duty-free shopping break or a great place to eat, check out Camana Bay across from Seven Mile Beach. It’s easily reachable by following signs for the footpath from West Bay Road, by car, or even by boat. Camana Bay boasts over 40 shops, over a dozen restaurants, fountains perfect for splashing, an air-conditioned movie theatre to beat the heat, a 75-foot observation tower that offers an aerial view of the island, and hundreds of events open to the public every year. camanabay.com

4. SMITH BARCADERE Also known as Smith Cove, this beach is located in South Sound (just south of the George Town Harbor) and is a great place to snorkel, splash, picnic, and catch the sunset. There are public restrooms and outdoor showers located on-site as well. Dart Family Park, one of the largest public parks in Grand Cayman, is just a bit north of Smith Cove and has great playground equipment styled after a traditional Cayman cottage, a large sandy play area, and a gorgeous vista of the Caribbean Sea. South Church Street, South Sound, Grand Cayman

5. RUM POINT Located on the edge of the North Sound in the North Side district of the island, Rum Point is a day trip well worth the 45-minute drive from Seven Mile Beach and worth considering as a home base for your entire stay. Rum Point offers an ideal shallow beach entry for swimming or snorkeling, hammocks, showers, bathrooms, shopping, dining, and a plethora of water sports seven days a week. Walk out on the picturesque pier and make sure to take plenty of photos. Rum Point can get busy on days cruise ships are in port. www.rumpointclub.com 6. STARFISH POINT Starfish Point is a bit of a hidden gem, where the shallow waters of the northeast point of the bay house hundreds of red cushion sea stars, also known as West Indian sea stars, that can grow up to 20 inches (50 cm) in diameter. Avoid lifting these living marine animals out of the sea as they need to be in water to survive and avoid stress. Stop by after a visit to Rum Point or arrive by boat. Bring a camera and mask and snorkel, no fins needed! This clear, shallow water is also great for beginning swimmers.

7. STINGRAY CITY These “puppies of the sea” can only be accessed by joining a boat tour, renting a personal watercraft, or hiring a private boat.

This popular attraction is located on a series of three-feet deep sandbars in the North Sound and is not to be missed! Tours leave from Rum Point, the cruise ship terminal, Camana Bay, many hotels, and many other locations around the island. Kissing a stingray is said to bring years of good luck. Make sure to pack an underwater camera!

Fun Fact: Each stingray at Stingray City is a tropical whiptail stingray with a venomous spine located on its tail. While the venom is not fatal to humans, a misstep can result in intense pain. Tour guides teach swimmers to shuffle their feet to avoid stepping on these gentle rays. The stingray pictured has lost her tail, possibly due to an accident with a boat.

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EAT

STAY

DRIVE

As the food scene continues to improve, there are thousands of restaurants to choose from on Grand Cayman. Here are a few kid-tested and approved options.

Prices drop the lowest during hurricane season (May–November).

Car Rental Renting a car is a must for getting around Grand Cayman. Rental car counters are a short walk to the left after you exit the airport. Bring a credit card that carries rental insurance benefits or risk paying high prices for insurance at the counter.

Grab a map of the island before heading out the door or download some maps to your phone for offline use because WiFi is not widely available outside of restaurants and hotels.

Sunset House One of the best for al fresco dining 390 S Church St, George Town www.sunsethouse.com Cayman Creperie Delicious savory and sweet crepes on the waterfront in George Town Bayshore Mall, 31 South Church Street, George Town www.caymancreperie.ky Guy Harvey’s Restaurant & Bar West Indies and French cuisine surrounded by Guy Harvey’s marine art 55 South Church Street, George Town guyharveys.ky Dairy Queen Ice cream served upside down the oldfashioned way 2 Waterfront Centre, 28 N Church St, George Town Eats American-style food and portion sizes with great prices, across from The Westin Cayman Falls Plaza, West Bay Road, Seven Mile Beach www.eats.ky Agua Restaurant and Lounge Sunday family lunch is an all-you-caneat-and-drink alternative to a traditional buffet brunch 47 Forum Lane, Camana Bay www.agua.ky

Sunshine Suites Best for budgets Starting at $157/night for 3 people Not beach front Sunshine Suites Resort, 1465 Esterley Tibbetts Highway, Seven Mile Beach sunshinesuites.com Comfort Suites A great lower-priced option Starting at $204/night for 3 people Pool, short walk to the beach West Bay Road, Seven Mile Beach www.choicehotels.com Wyndham Reef Resort When you want to add on an all-inclusive package Starting at $244/night for 3 people Located on the secluded East End 2221 Queens Highway, Colliers Bay, East End wyndhamcayman.com Kimpton Seafire Resort & Spa When money isn’t tight Starting at $435/night for 3 people Beautiful new resort with high-class restaurants 60 Tanager Way, Seven Mile Beach www.seafireresortandspa.com The Westin Best pool Starting at $436/night for 3 people Newly renovated, excellent pools West Bay Road, Seven Mile Beach www.westingrandcayman.com Cobalt Coast Dive Resort Best for diving Starting at $1320/person for 7 nights Includes airport transfer, dives, and meals 18-A Sea Fan Drive, West Bay www.cobaltcoast.com

76 | Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

Driving on the Left Not surprisingly, this British overseas territory drives on the left. Beware the right turns, as suddenly your car has a lot further to go. And rental cars are a mix of U.S. and British vehicles so whether the steering wheel will be on the left or right side might as well be decided by a coin toss.

Roundabouts Roundabouts are plentiful on Grand Cayman, with the first one located just out of the airport. Remember to go to the LEFT to navigate them clockwise. Yield to the traffic already in it and stay in the left lane unless you are turning right and taking the third exit. Use your indicators/ turn signals when entering and exiting the roundabout.

Traffic Traffic can be quite heavy on this small island, where the one major thoroughfare is a two-lane road, so avoid driving during rush hour. If you find yourself caught in a traffic jam, embrace the slower pace of Caribbean life and pull over and enjoy the sights or a good meal.

FISH TACOS: KATIE KRUITHOF; BALLOONS: JENNIFER SMITH

Sunshine Grill Our favorite fish tacos!

Sunshine Suites Resort, 1465 Esterley Tibbetts Highway, Seven Mile Beach sunshinesuites.com/sunshine-grill

Air BnB Best for an authentic experience Widely varying prices all over the island.

Will require a car May not have an ocean view but can save you a ton on housing www.airbnb.com

#1 ENTERTAINMENT EXCURSION IN GRAND CAYMAN

LIVE ESCAPE ROOMS WWW.LOCKEDINNCAYMAN.COM Fun for the whole family!

5 star reviews!

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Choose Your Own Adventure

Darcy Tuscano

French Houseboat Cruise

A

s the sun filters through the tree branches above your head, you lift a full glass of rosé and gaze at the dappled effects the shadows cast on the lazy canal. You’ve dreamed about this for years: a French family holiday, cruising slowly on a self-driven houseboat from village to village along the Canal du Midi, a 330-year-old waterway that meanders 240 km (149 mi) from the sunny shores of the Mediterranean onward towards the Atlantic.

78 | Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

Built in the 1600s, the canal is one of five UNESCO World Heritage sites in the region and is a remarkable work of manmade engineering, featuring 91 locks of various shapes and sizes.

A typical canal cruise passes through 10–12 of these locks and navigating through each one is part of the unique experience.

Whichever canal route you choose, you won’t get there quickly. Unlike cruising on the ocean or a river, the canals are placid and calm; most boats go about five knots an hour and cover

only 4 km (about 2.5 mi) per day. That means plenty of slowed down, relaxing time to spend together as a family. After all, isn’t that all part of the dream?

And those tricky locks you’ll need to navigate? Don’t worry; they aren’t nearly as hard as they look. Most tweens and teens love a good challenge, and this part of the adventure can be a shared responsibility for all of the children as they navigate the process and help tie up the boat. Your kids will be cheered on by

spectators gathered on the bridges watching the entire spectacle, and you’ll gleam with pride.

If you’re looking for outdoor activities, a French canal cruise has something to please everyone.

As you cruise down canals with a backdrop of ancient Roman fortifications, sleepy medieval hamlets, lush vineyards, and crumbling chateaux, through tunnels and over aqueducts, look out for local swimming holes and rope swings. These are great Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

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79

fun for the entire family to splash around in on a hot summer’s day.

If your family likes to fish, you’ll find the best spots by watching for other anglers as you cruise. Don’t be shy; shout out “bonjour” and drop a line.

Most of the Canal du Midi is lined with a scenic bike path. This means different members of your family can take turns walking or cycling on the path as the houseboat meanders along. Teens especially love the freedom of cycling alongside the boat, so do bring your bikes aboard.

Spend your days on shore strolling through morning markets of tiny French villages sampling olives, cheese, wine, and of course, pastries. You’ll win major points serving pain au chocolat — a buttery rich croissant filled with a thick ribbon of chocolate — for breakfast every morning. Buy local products to bring

back on the boat if you’ll be cooking aboard and enjoying family meals.

Self-catering means everyone can be accommodated, from the fussiest eaters to the more adventurous. If cooking on vacation just isn’t your thing, don’t worry!

It’s entirely possible to plan your trip around gastronomy and eat in a different village for every lunch and dinner. The choice is up to you. Just be sure to stock up on a few bottles of amazing French wine for nightcaps on deck after the kids go to sleep.

Master Tips: •

Go on a big grocery shopping trip near your boat pick up. If you plan on cooking your meals, using a menu plan tailored for your family and their needs will save you time and money.

•

Shop at the local markets, butchers, and bakeries along the canal to replenish fresh supplies.

•

Plan ahead on activities along the route so every child (and parent!) can have their own special day.

•

Bring your own books, board games, playing cards, or art supplies for family time on the boat.

•

Splurge on bike rentals for the boat or bring your own. Buying a bike can be cheaper than a rental for long trips.

•

Do lock up your valuables, including bikes, at all times when leaving the boat. Thefts are not common but do happen.

Don’t let it ruin your holiday.

•

Check your data plan for internet service or buy the service bundle provided by the houseboat operator if you think life is better connected (or if you’re traveling with a tween or teen!).

Various outfitters can help arrange your cruising experience, such as Le Boat and Canal Cruising in France.

80 | Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

PAGE 78 – PANOSUD360/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; THIS PAGE – DARCY TUSCANO

As the sky darkens and the stars come out above your houseboat, whether it’s docked alongside a village pier or a quiet stretch along the banks of the canal, you’ll all sleep great in your own cabin knowing that tomorrow you get to wake up to the sun breaking over the canal and start another day of adventures.

MANAGING EDITOR

WE’RE HIRING! ADVERTISING MANAGER

WEB CONTENT EDITOR

For more information, visit our website at www.everywheremagazine.com/opportunities

ROYAL CAR I B B EA N GO ES THE EX TRA I S L E WI TH THEIR PRIVATE I S L A N D

PE RF ECT DAY AT C O CO CAY • D E B U T I NG M AY 2 01 9 Royal Caribbean redefined cruising with its much-loved Oasis Class ships. Now, they’re resetting all expectations for what a beach day can be with private destination Perfect Day at CocoCay. And when Harmony of the Seas and Symphony of the Seas begin sailing there May 2019, you’ll be hard pressed to find a bolder vacation.

DRENCHED IN FUN Get ready for gallons of adventure in the heart of the island, Thrill Waterpark — home to North America’s tallest waterslide, Daredevil’s Peak, a 135-foot plunge. And that’s just one of 13 slides across two towers. At Daredevil’s Tower, you can race a friend down the twin Dueling Demons with an addictively frightful drop. Plummet down the near-vertical Screeching Serpent. And if you dare, brave the coils of the twisting, turning Green Mamba slide.

You’ll find another set of adventures at Thrill Waterpark’s other set of slides designed for multiple riders. On The Slingshot, four can share a raft and a zero-gravity moment before freefalling. Grab a buddy for the winding tube slide, The Twister. Or unleash your competitive side on the four-lane Splash Speedway.

And no visit to Thrill Waterpark will be complete without a dip in the largest wave pool in the Caribbean.

The kids can leave their cares behind at Splashaway Bay with fountains, sprinklers, geysers and water cannons, plus five slides. All in all, no island has more ways to get soaked.

WAY ABOVE ORDINARY But you don’t have to get wet to enjoy the fun.

Take things up a notch on a zip line with the only water landing in the Bahamas. Or go up to 450 feet above land and sea onboard the Up, Up and Away helium balloon that gives C a p t a i n J ack ’ s G al l eo n

“view from the top” a whole new meaning.

C hill I sland

BOLD BEACH BOUND BLISS Perfect Day at CocoCay will be more than slides and rides — the beach areas make the island the ultimate sun soaking escape. Chill Island maxes out the relaxation while South Beach is the go-to spot for those who like to get their game on. Volleyball, beachside basketball, paddle boarding, kayaking, and even zorbing amp up the excitement. Be sure to refuel over burgers, sandwiches, salads and more at the complimentary Snack Shacks throughout the island. And to quench your thirst, wade on over to the floating bar just offshore.

C o nt act u s to b o o k yo u r Perfect Day at CocoCay adventure today!

Dream Vacations - Larry Schwartz and Associates 800-269-2127/ Lschwartz@DreamVacations.com Images and messaging for Perfect Day at CocoCay reflect current design concepts and may include artistic renderings. All destination features and experiences, and related delivery timing for these features, are currently in development and are subject to change without notice. Coco Beach Club is scheduled to open December 2019. Perfect Day and CocoCay are trademarks of Royal Caribbean. ©2018 Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd. Ships’ registry: The Bahamas. 18064058 • 09/04/2018.

Bon Appetit

Mandy Mooneyham

GIRL: PAVEL LOSEVSKY; BRUSSELS SPROUTS: BART; ESCARGOT: COMUGNERO SILVANA; LOBSTER: GRESEI (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

CRUISE FOOD FOR KIDS A

cruise is a great option to get away from the winter weather for a week without having to coordinate all of the details of self-organized travel. Except for some coffee shops and the most exclusive dining rooms on a ship (many of which do not allow children to enter), all food is included in the cruise fare.

The foods available all over the ship vary enough to offer most families enough options for even the pickiest eaters. And if a meal doesn’t go over well, there are enough dining options to move on to a different restaurant easily.

Kid-friendly food found on most restaurant menus typically includes unhealthy options like fried foods. While these foods are still served on cruise ships, we like to take advantage of other options on board to introduce new foods to our children.

With the included all-you-can-eat buffet-style service and sit-down dinner options available at every meal, it’s simple to add a few new and different options to a child’s plate. We like to combine tried-and-true options with new flavors and textures, and we ask our adventurous eater to take one “no thank you” bite of anything we offer her. If she likes it, she eats as much as she wants. If not, she moves on. By offering new foods this way,

she now knows she loves Brussels sprouts, hates escargot, and prefers the buttery outside of the lobster over the meat inside!

We like to take advantage of the formal dining room for dinner, providing an opportunity to dress smartly (or in your finest cruise wear on the one or two formal nights of every cruise when dressier attire is required) and practice table manners family style. Dining without a final bill overshadowing the end of our dinner takes off the pressure and allows each of us to choose as much as we like. Three entrees, two mains, and four desserts?

It’s all possible. It also offers options that cater to kids such as chicken nuggets and pizza, and we generally request a recurring appetizer of fruits or veggies that are always winners at home to help reduce any “hangries” and get in some nutritious food first.

A cruise is an excellent way to try new foods without worrying about how much it costs to buy local dishes or delicacies a picky eater will never finish. In my experience, everyone finds new favorites, has an opportunity to practice etiquette, and gets to spend often overlooked dinner time together with family or friends.

Bon Appetit

Wailana Kalama

Haupia Coconut Pudding H

awaiian haupia, or coconut pudding, is the ultimate party winner — flavorful, unique, and uncomplicated. As a child dragged to family gatherings on the Big Island, I always looked forward to the homemade dishes my aunties would whip up.

There was always a glass tray filled to the brim with haupia, sometimes decorated with coconut shavings, sometimes flavored with macadamia nuts. When I grew older and moved away, I was sure to take a few easy recipes from Hawai‘i with me, and none have been as simple and iconic as the coconut pudding. It’s so easy, you can even cook it with your budding chef at home! Here’s my favorite recipe: • • • •

1 can (14 ounces) of full-fat coconut milk 5 tablespoons cornstarch 5 tablespoons sugar ¾ cup water

Prepare an 8x8-inch pan by lining it with a foil sling and lighting oiling or spraying with cooking spray. Combine sugar and cornstarch in a bowl, whisking to combine. Then slowly add in the water and continue to whisk, making a thinner and thinner paste until everything is mixed thoroughly.

Heat coconut milk in a saucepan over medium heat. Once it starts to simmer, slowly add in the mixture. Keep whisking until the mixture thickens (about 10 minutes). The haupia should drip from your whisk without much resistance.

Pour the mixture into your prepared pan and top with toasted coconut or crushed macadamia nuts — or get creative!

(Time-saving tip: Toast coconut in the microwave by spreading your coconut on a plate in a thin layer and heating in 30-second increments until lightly browned.)

Allow the haupia to cool before refrigerating. After a few hours, it should solidify enough to cut into 2x2-inch pieces.

Enjoy!

Bon Appetit

Ali Nelson

Dutch Oven Chili & Cornbread C

ast iron cookware, famous for its even heat distribution and versatility, has been in use since the pioneer days over 150 years ago. Today, my cast iron skillets are in heavy rotation at home, our go-to cookware for cooking meats, sauces, grilled cheese sandwiches, and more. But it’s our heavy, cast iron Dutch oven that gets the most use around a campfire. Parents and kids love the fresh-from-the-oven meals and are content sitting around the campfire while dinner cooks. This chili and cornbread recipe is a family favorite, perfect for a chilly night.

HAUPIA: KATIE NELSON; DUTCH OVEN: ALI NELSON

• • • • • • • • • • • •

1 ½ pounds of ground beef, bison, or turkey ½ large sweet onion, diced 2–4 cloves of garlic, minced (about 1–2 teaspoons) 1 can (28 ounces) whole or diced tomatoes 2 teaspoons salt 2 ½ tablespoons chili powder 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 teaspoons cumin 3 cans (16 ounces each) kidney beans 1 box (8.5 ounces) Jiffy Corn Muffin Mix 1 egg ⅓ cup milk

The first step is to preheat your oven; this takes a little more effort for outdoor Dutch oven cooking. Start by preparing a bed of coals. You can use either firewood or charcoal briquettes, although we find that charcoal is more manageable in size, provides a more even heat source, and can be ready faster (in about 15–20 minutes). Heat approximately 60 coals until glowing. Evenly spread 30 coals on a flat, non-combustible surface in an area approximately 16 inches in diameter; this will serve as the base for your Dutch oven. Pile the remaining coals to the side to preserve heat for use later. Place the Dutch oven on the coals.

The oily sheen of a well-seasoned Dutch oven is naturally non-stick but consider adding cooking oil if you’ll be cooking with leaner meat. Using the Dutch oven as a skillet, brown the ground meat. If you prefer a subtler, sweeter flavor, add the onions and garlic first and sauté until softened. On the other hand, if you prefer a stronger onion or garlic flavor in your chili, add them raw with the remaining ingredients. (My mother-inlaw has perfected this chili recipe over the years and swears that the latter approach is the best!)

Add the can of tomatoes (including juices), spices, and beans to the meat and stir until well combined. Simmer for 10–15

minutes to bring out the flavors (although longer is better — this chili is even more flavorful the next day!).

Prepare the Jiffy Corn Muffin Mix according to the directions on the box and pour the batter in a layer covering the top of the finished chili.

Place the lid on top of the Dutch oven and very carefully use metal tongs or a shovel to place the hot coals you set aside on top of the lid. This heat source above your food will heat it evenly from all directions, causing your contents to bake.

Allow it to cook until the cornbread is done and appears lightly browned, generally, about 10 minutes.

Bonus: After dinner is done, the hot coals are ready for roasting marshmallows for s’mores!

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Outside the Classroom

88 | Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

Hawai‘i Volcanoes NATIONAL PARK

H

awai‘i Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island is home to Kīlauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Until May of 2018, the glow of molten rock inside this volcano’s crater (caldera) was easily seen from the Thomas A. Jaggar Museum overlook. While the magnitude of volcanic activity would make the glow brighter or the plume of smoke larger some nights, visitors to the park were practically guaranteed a glimpse of the lava that made this destination famous.

If the volcano in this state were a lightly sleeping infant (babbling and unpredictable, occasionally awakening and crying before returning to rest), last May it became a toddler in the midst of a full-blown temper tantrum: loud, frightening, unstable, and explosive. The park experienced tens of thousands of earthquakes between May and September and was completely closed during that time. Lava flowed to the

southeast, burying over 700 houses and destroying entire neighborhoods. The areas of the park not damaged beyond repair or creating safety hazards for visitors reopened on September 22. However, the view visitors had previously flocked to see was now gone. The Jaggar Museum remains closed indefinitely due to safety hazards, and the National Park Service warns that “there is no molten lava to see in the park.”

But that’s hardly a reason to reconsider a visit. While the view of the volcano’s crater pictured here is only currently available at the Kīlauea Visitor Center in its pictures and films depicting the park’s past, the ever-changing landscape is a testament to the power of nature. Only time will tell what changes Pele (the legendary Hawaiian goddess of fire and volcanoes) has in store for the future.

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5650ft 1722m

Mauna Loa Road

2.3mi 3.7km

(paved, one lane) ‘A

ina po Ro he el ad dr iv

Kïpukapuaulu

3980ft 1213m

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3040ft 926m

Nämakanipaio

2280ft 695m

Pepeiao Cabin

1680ft 512m

DESERT

WILDERNESS

1.4mi 2.3km

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

Pali

1.2mi 1.9km

a Pali Trail

Interpretive trail

Hiking trail (day hike permit required) About the map The computer-generated map above looks northwest across the Big Island. Because of perspective, areas in the foreground appear larger than comparably sized areas in the background.

Vertical exaggeration is used.

Gas station

Food service

Emergency phone

Drinking water

Campground

Water—must be treated before drinking

Primitive campground

h

Mau Loa o Mauna Ulu

2.0mi 3.2km

1969

u Nä

1972

Tip: Pick up a “Passport to Your National Parks” so kids can stamp their own passport books at each National Park they visit.

After exploring the Kīlauea Visitor Center, see volcanic forces in action at the Steam Vents, Steaming Bluff, and Sulphur Banks along Crater Rim Drive (although the National Park Service advises pregnant women, young children, and visitors with cardiac or respiratory issues to avoid exposure to gases on the short hike to Sulphur Banks). Continue on to the Chain of Craters Road traversing the volcano’s slopes, beginning at nearly 4,000 feet of elevation above sea level and ending on the black cliffs abutting the ocean. The opportunities for frequent stops along the 36 miles (round trip) of the route are plentiful and offer sites to get up close and personal with volcanic features like pahoehoe and a’a lava flows and the Thurston Lava Tube.

For history buffs, archeological sites such as the Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs dating back to the settlement of this area in the early 15th century are also worth a stop.

Food and fuel are not available on Chain of Craters Road, so stock up on the way into the park.

1.2mi 1.9km

Tr lu 2.0mi

3.2km

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O C E A N

Pu­u ­Ö­ö Näpau Crater

1

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0.7mi 1.5km

da

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Eruption activity and the course of lava flows are constantly changing.

Check with park staff for current conditions.

li

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1973

6.6mi 10.6km

WHERE TO GO The Kīlauea Visitor Center should be any family’s first stop for an introduction to the park’s history and geology. For a fun, interactive guide to its flora, fauna, and other natural features, kids can grab a copy of the Junior Ranger Handbook. For kids ages 6 and under, the handbook is a coloring book depicting lava tubes, green sea turtles, Pele, hibiscus flowers, and the endangered NēNē goose (pack crayons or buy some at the gift shop); for kids ages 7–12, the handbook asks kids to watch a film at the visitor center, complete at least two “explorations” (scavenger hunts inside the Kīlauea Visitor Center and at various locations around the park), and to create a poster sharing important facts about the park.

2600ft 792m

1969-1974

Hö

‘Äpua Point

1969

2.0mi 3.2km

2000ft 610m

3.1mi 5.0km

P A C I F I C

EAST RIFT WILDERNESS

Kealakomo

Refer to USGS topographic maps for exact trail locations.

90 | Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

te

2680ft 817m

3.6mi 5.8km

1.6mi 2.6km

Restrooms (wheelchair-accessible) Lodging

Wheelchair-accessible

au

il

T

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Picnic area

Historic lava flow and date

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Distance indicator

1.3mi 2.1km

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3.0mi 4.8km

1.6mi 2.6km

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1.1mi 1.8km

3,200ft 975m

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1.4mi 2.3km

Mauna Ulu

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Pu­u Huluhulu

Pauahi Crater

Kulanaokuaiki

5mi 8km

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2.2mi 3.5km

1.4mi 2.3km

4.0mi 6.4km

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Hilina Pali Overlook

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‘ÖLA‘A WILDERNESS Volcano Village

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1.8mi 2.9km

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‘Öla‘a Forest HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

Kïlauea Visitor Center

Volcano House

Esc ap e

5.7mi 9.2km

Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs

1983-2010s

Road closed by lava flow.

Hölei Sea Arch

HOW TO GET THERE Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is located on the big island of Hawai‘i, which is accessible by air on Hawaiian Airlines and many other major domestic air carriers. Flights between Hawai‘i and the West Coast of the United States average five and a half hours. While keeping an energetic child occupied can be challenging on the long flights to Hawai‘i, many of the eastbound flights back to the mainland are conveniently scheduled as red-eye flights that will put most kids to sleep.

Flights are available to either the Kona International Airport (on the west side of the island) or the Hilo International Airport (on the east). The National Park is 45 minutes by car from Hilo, and two to two and a half hours from Kona. There is no public transportation within the park so renting a car is the best option.

The $25 entrance fee provides access for one noncommercial vehicle (up to 15 passengers) for up to seven days.

WHERE TO STAY Several types of accommodation are available inside the National Park. For a lodge-like experience close to the action, Volcano House (www.hawaiivolcanohouse.com) sits across Crater Rim Drive from the Kīlauea Visitor Center on the rim of the Kīlauea caldera and with a view of the Halema’uma’u Crater. Its 33 guest rooms each sleep up to four people and start at $219 US (or $319 US for a crater view) for one or two guests.

For a more rustic stay, Volcano House also manages 10 “camper cabins” at Nāmakanipaio Campground. Each cabin has a firepit, BBQ grill, and beds for four guests, starting at $80 per night. Campsites are also available for rent on a first-come, first-served basis for $15 per night, and tent rental and setup is available for an additional $40.

Additional options for accommodations are available outside the National Park’s boundaries. Private vacation rentals listed through various rental agencies can be rented just three miles away in Volcano Village, and the close proximity to Hilo makes a stay in this vibrant town an easy option as well.

PAGE 88 – KEVIN; THIS PAGE – ROAD CLOSED: DIEGO; PAHOEHOE: MARKUS; A’A: JRYANC10; LAVA FOUNTAIN: BIERCHEN; COMPOSITE VOLCANO: WETRAVELTOLIVE (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM). MAP: NPMAPS.COM; SHIELD VOLCANO: ALI NELSON

w

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Wright

Kapapala gate

Lava T

ouring Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park is an opportunity for a hands-on lesson about lava, so take this guide with you when you visit.

Lava is the molten rock that erupts from fissures or cracks in the earth’s crust. Most lava, including the basaltic lava found in the park, is made up of silicate minerals. However, lava in other areas of the world is significantly different. The Ol Doinyo Lengai volcano in Tanzania erupts carbonatite, while the El Laco volcanic complex in Chile and Argentina erupts iron oxide .

The two most common types of lava are pahoehoe lava, which is smooth and flowing, and a’a lava, which is sharp and rough. A pahoehoe flow is much hotter, generally 2,010-2,190°F (1,100-1,200°C). As it cools to 1,8302,010°F (1,000-1,100°C) or encounters obstacles, it can change into a’a lava.

Lava flows overtake anything in their paths and can close roads and destroy neighborhoods.

Lava fountains appear when lava is forced out of a fissure or vent, like a glowing geyser.

As lava flows cool, they harden into igneous rock and form different topographic features. Volcanoes form when repeated eruptions build up over time. Shield volcanoes have broad, gently sloping sides formed by layers of lava, while stratovolcanoes or composite volcanoes are steeper and are created by lava and ash. All Hawaiian volcanoes are shield volcanoes; there are no composite volcanoes in this island chain. Mt. Taranaki in New Zealand is pictured to show how different a composite volcano looks.

A caldera or crater can form in the center of a volcano following an eruption or through subsidence.

See the picture of the Kilauea Caldera on pages 88-89.

Lava tubes form when the outside surface of a lava flow forms a crust, but lava beneath the crust continues to flow, developing a hollow tunnel or tube.

Although they’re created in an entirely different way than limestone caves, once formed, they share a number of similarities. The flowing lava can create a subterranean maze, with large rooms up to 50 feet wide (about 15 meters) and up to 50 feet beneath the surface. Stalactite-like features called lavacicles often hang from the roof, and bats may take up residency. Flashlights are generally necessary to navigate these tubes, as the only light is in areas where the roof has collapsed or opened up to allow in sunlight. Lava tubes stay cool year-round and can be a respite from a hot, sunny day.

See the picture and drawing of a lava tube in Sketches, page 96.

In the Field

PAHOEHOE LAVA

A’A LAVA

LAVA FOUNTAIN

SHIELD VOLCANO

COMPOSITE VOLCANO

Little Heroes

Darcy Tuscano

KIDS HELPING KIDS:

The Tuscano Boys Raise Money Every Month for Konojel!

DARCY TUSCANO

N

ot many 5-year-olds spend Christmas helping Syrian refugees on the docks of a Greek port, but it comes naturally to these twin boys raised by community activistminded moms.

Max and Sebastian Tuscano, young world travelers, started volunteering before they understood the meaning: joining an outreach project for the homeless on the streets of New York City, collecting and personally delivering clothing donations to disadvantaged indigenous communities on the Costa Rican Caribbean coast, and learning about conservation efforts by visiting and donating directly to elephant sanctuaries in Sri Lanka.

Most recently, they served thousands of Syrian refugees on the island of Lesvos, Greece at the height of the refugee crisis. “My mom wanted to help moms and kids so we gave our Christmas money to buy backpacks and toys for the refugee kids. Then, we would go with our moms to the docks and give the gifts to the kids. I really like helping other kids,” says Max, 8.

As Max’s mom, I wanted to show my kids the true message for the holidays is to GIVE. It’s not what we get; it’s trying to be as generous as possible and helping those in need. The impact of being able to connect directly with other children in Greece made a huge impact. When my friend Jennifer Miller connected

me with Konojel, I knew this would be a good relationship and one where my kids could have a direct and positive effect on other kids.

This holiday season, you’ll find Max and Sebastian helping bake cookies and later selling them in their village plaza in Spain as they try to raise money for Konojel. Konojel is a non-profit organization that works to combat chronic malnutrition and endemic poverty in Guatemala through nutrition, education, and employment for women. “We try to raise $10 (USD) a month to help feed the kids. Sometimes we don’t have enough money from selling things, so we do extra chores for our moms to get enough money,” says Sebastian, also 8. For the past year, they’ve hit their monthly goal and continued spreading the word of the fantastic work Konojel is doing for the lakeside children of Guatemala.

In the future, the two-mom Tuscano family hopes to travel to Guatemala to volunteer with the Konojel children directly, believing the best way to raise committed global citizens is a hands-on approach.

To join the Tuscano boys in supporting Konojel, donate today at www.konojel.org/donate-now. *A version of this piece was first published on the Konojel website.

Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

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Sketches

Lysefjord, Norway “Last July my family went to visit my uncle in Stavanger, Norway. Around Stavanger, there are lots of islands and fjords. A fjord is a long, narrow passage of sea between high cliffs. I am from Australia, so I didn’t know what fjords were at first. My uncle took us climbing the big mountains and cliffs, on ferry rides through the fjords, and on his sailboat around some tiny islands. We also saw waterfalls. It was summer there, but it was cold like our winter in Australia. It doesn’t get dark until almost midnight — I couldn’t believe it. The scenery at Lysefjord was so amazing that I decided to draw it.”

Xanthe Croucher is an 8-year-old Australian girl with English, Scottish, and Norwegian ancestry.

Her first international trip was to Canada at 6 months old. She loves reading (particularly Harry Potter), dance, gymnastics, animals, and art, especially drawing scenery.

96 | Everywhere Magazine February/March 2019

LAVA TUBE DRAWING: BRONSON AMBREY (LAURA AMBREY); LAVA TUBE PHOTO: SARAH/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; FJORD DRAWING: XANTHE CROUCHER (FIONA CROUCHER); FJORD PHOTO: FIONA CROUCHER

Hana Lava Tubes, Maui, Hawaii “[The tubes are] made from lava. There was a [chamber] that looked like chocolate; the walls were brown and smooth. There was a natural skylight with plants growing down. I want to go back. It was really pretty!”

Bronson Ambrey is a 6-year-old fact-seeker, consistently choosing documentaries and non-fiction books over anything else. He became fascinated with geology and volcanoes at a very young age and jumped at the chance to see the Hana Lava Tube — the largest lava tube in the world and over a thousand years old — on his family trip to Maui. This was Bronson’s second time in a cavernous space created by lava; his first was the Narusawa Ice Cave in Japan, formed by lava from Mt. Fuji.

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