June/July 2019 by Everywhere Magazine

JUNE/JULY | 2019

YOUR SOURCE

FOR FAMILY ADVENTURE

GET OUTSIDE

CULTURAL EXPERIENCES AND OUTDOOR ADVENTURES

VINTAGE RV FAMILY TRAVEL

MULTIGENERATIONAL GRAND CANYON RAFTING

FOREIGN LANGUAGE CAMP IN FRANCE

CO N T E N T S JUNE/JULY 2019

90 Choose Your Own Adventure Unplug in Yosemite National Park

Feature Grand Canyon Adventure

Outside the Classroom Georgia Aquarium 66

Essay A Climb to the Top of Angel's Landing

Feature French Camp

In the Field Whale Sharks 48

Feature Big Blue Bus

Up & Coming

10 11 12 88 96

Sketches — Artwork from the kids

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Upcoming Events — What’s happening when

Go Wild Searching for Sloths

Travel Trends — Family conferences all over the world Gear Up — Our favorite tents for families Little Heroes — An online book club for kids with Avalon

Interview Backpacking with Lidia

Features

Connect

60 66 72

06 14 16 19 24 26 45 48

Grand Canyon Adventure— Three generations raft the Colorado River

French Camp — Language immersion in the French Alps Big Blue Bus — One family hits the road in a vintage RV

Editor’s Note Social Media — Families worth following Op/Ed — Is an Airbnb rental the right choice? Interview — Lidia and Lotta backpack Brazil Just Go — Tips for flying with kids Essay — Celebrating a 40th birthday with a solo hike Cultural Consideration — Learn about head coverings from an Iranian woman Go Wild — Searching for sloths at Manuel Antonio National Park

Tips & Tricks

Cultural Consideration Head Coverings

Insider’s Guide Jordan

31 35 42 53

Beat the Rat Race — Live a travel life Insider’s Guide — Where to go in Jordan

Navigation — Travel without toys and a summer bucket list tear out for kids

80 85 90 93

Skillset — Packing for camping by car, photographing your family, and workouts to get hike-ready

Choose Your Own Adventure — Hiking, climbing, and stargazing in Yosemite

Bon Appetit — Hunting for dinner, Iranian cabbage rice, and French cuisine Outside the Classroom — Georgia Aquarium exhibits

In the Field — Learn about whale sharks

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

In Puerto Vallarta, we rode donkeys up the mountain to our stop: zip-lining through the trees and over the valleys. This carried us to our final adventure of rappelling down two waterfalls. The first was 50 foot (15 m) high, which was good practice for the next, a 100 foot (30 m) waterfall with water rushing around us as we navigated between the rocks. It felt surreal. At the bottom, we landed in waist-deep water. I've been asked how I had the courage to take the first step over the edge, and the answer is simple: there was no other way down!

Editor-in-Chief

Publisher

Operations Manager

Kara Rodean

Marketing Director

Amanda Bird

Mandy Mooneyham Ali Nelson

Social Media Astrid Vinje Kathryn Alexander

Advertising Manager

Melanie Selvey

Creative Design & Photography

At dusk on one of our final days in Yellowstone National Park, we were creeping along the road at 3 mph (4.8 kph) in our car, hoping to capture a glimpse of a grizzly bear. We were losing hope that we'd see one when, lo and behold, we spotted one right beside the road, about 3 feet (1 m) from the car. My husband was starting to slow down to a stop, but I was frantically rolling up the windows and telling him to step on the gas! I managed to get one blurry picture on my phone of the massive bear who was happily snacking on berries as we drove past. It's a memory we'll always cherish.

Accounting & Finance

Senior Editors

Zélie Pollon Darcy Tuscano

Staff Writer

Darcy Tuscano

Copy Editor

Corrinne Gilbertson

Layout Designer

Meagan Haberer Katie Nelson Katie Wallace Melanie Selvey

Aleksandar Cvetkovic

Amanda Bird Our family went on a day hike through Gunung Leuser National Park on the Indonesian island of Sumatra. During our hike, we saw at least four wild orangutans, including a mother and her baby. The baby was happily playing in the trees, swinging from branch to branch while his mother kept a watchful eye. Our kids, then 5 and 2, were so enthralled to see orangutans in the wild. To this day, four years later, they still remember that cute orangutan in the jungle.

Astrid Vinje

Everywhere Magazine is published six times each year in both digital and print format. Single issues are priced at $4.99 per digital issue and $9.99 per print issue; subscriptions are priced at $29.95 for one year of digital issues and $59.95 for one year of digital and print issues. To subscribe, visit everywheremagazine.com. Postage paid in Boise, ID and at additional mailing offices. For questions, contact Everywhere Magazine LLC at hello@everywheremagazine.com, 1.833.EVERYWHERE (1.833.383.7994), 1650 Targee St. #5322, PO Box 5322, Boise ID 83705. © Everywhere Magazine LLC. All rights are reserved. No reproduction is permitted without the prior written consent of Everywhere Magazine LLC. Everywhere Magazine LLC is not liable for any incorrect information or return of any submitted materials.

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

COVER – WAVEBREAK3; CONTENTS – HOPE; THIS PAGE – NEW AFRICA (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

We asked our staff to describe their most memorable outdoor experiences.

Editor’s Note

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

There’s so much of the world to explore, and we want to see it all. We want to immerse ourselves in cultures that are different from ours, jump in new bodies of water, and breathe in the smells of foreign spices. Wherever you are right now and wherever you plan to travel next, a story is waiting. We hope you will look to us for inspiration and then share your story with us! JO ANN SNOVER/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

ur family loves to be outside. One of my favorite memories is swimming with stingrays in Grand Cayman. My then 5-year-old jumped into the water, her personal outdoor classroom, with enthusiasm, bravery, and wonder as the majestic “sea puppies” brushed against us. In this issue, we explore the outdoors, from the bottom of the Grand Canyon to the red walls of Petra, Jordan. We dive into the Pacific for whale shark encounters and take a ride in a 1969 RV through Canyonlands National Park. I’m ready to sign all of us up for summer camp, but that will have to wait until my children are older. Until then, I’ll have to settle for living vicariously through these pages, dreaming of all of the adventures we have yet to take and fondly remembering the best parts of past travels.

Contributors

Meet some of our talented writers

Fiona Croucher

Fiona’s first overseas experience was at age 16 on a stopover through Kuala Lumpur. Equal parts terrified and thrilled, she has since traveled to 43 countries and worked in the UK and Turkey. She is based in Western Australia with her husband and three young children. Her family travels at every opportunity, locally and overseas.

Darcy Tuscano

Darcy developed wanderlust at age 5 when The Sound of Music showed her that a vast world existed outside her life in the Midwest. Her volunteer work and travels have taken her throughout four continents and 35 countries. In 2015, with her wife, Kate, and their twin boys, she set off on her biggest adventure — moving to a small village on the Spanish Mediterranean coast to live, work, and educate. She is a writer, lover of the outdoors, and humanitarian aid worker.

Astrid Vinje

Astrid is a lifelong traveler with a passion for experiencing new places and cultures. Her personal travels, as well as 12 years of experience working in international development, have taken her to the far corners of Asia, Africa, and Latin America. These days, Astrid travels around the world full time with her husband and two kids, living as modern day nomads.

Cat Chiappa

An educator, adventurer, musician, and avid photographer, Cat has traveled to 23 countries across five continents. Currently living in Monterey, California, her greatest dream is to take a year off and travel the world with her husband and two young children photographing and writing about their adventures along the way.

Melanie Selvey

Melanie loves to travel with her husband, four grandkids, and their parents. She calls Missouri home but enjoys adventures around the world; she has rappelled down a waterfall in Mexico, viewed the Nāpali coast by helicopter, and built homes in Nicaragua.

Genny Arredondo

Tonya Miller

Tonya is a stay-anywhere-but-home wife and mother to an adventurous 5-year-old girl and a 3-yearold Golden Retriever in Charlotte, North Carolina. Her favorite trips include backpacking and rock climbing in Southeast Asia, getting married and SCUBA diving in French Polynesia, and paragliding in Iceland. Most recently, she took a solo trip to learn to surf in the Dominican Republic. When she’s not tending to or traveling with her clan, you will find her in hot yoga or reading something riveting.

Sandy Dornsife

Sandy is an avid traveler who loves getting off the beaten path with her husband and two children, 8-year-old Lucy and 3-year-old Daniel. They lived in Amman, Jordan for two years before recently moving to London, England. Some of her family's favorite travel experiences have been staying on a Highland cow farm in Scotland; camping in a Bedouin tent in Wadi Rum, Jordan; and hiking Wadi Shab in Oman.

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

TONYA MILLER: TAMARA HART WITH BUMP MEET BABY PHOTOGRAPHY

Travel enthusiast, adventure seeker, environmentalist: many titles can describe contributing author Genny. These days, she lives in Seattle and is known as “Mama” by her two young boys. She previously spent 13 months traveling around the world with her husband and plans on living abroad with her family in the near future.

CONTRIBUTE YOUR WORK

Pitch us your idea for an upcoming issue. Share your stories about your round-theworld trip with your toddler, your thru-hike on the PaciďŹ c Crest Trail with your teenager, or how you taught your little girl to ski, or share your travel secrets wtih our readers.

Send us the photographs from your last family trip. We love to feature real families on real adventures. We need your images of interesting architecture, close-ups of bugs, action shots of kids snorkeling, and mountain vistas that can ďŹ ll a 2-page spread -- photos of families out in the world that will inspire another family's next adventure.

writers@everywheremagazine.com

photos@everywheremagazine.com

For more information, visit our website at www.everywheremagazine.com/opportunities

UPCOMING EVENTS

June 17–July 1, 2019 — Project World School Family Learning Adventure in Sacred Valley, Peru projectworldschool.com/perufamily-2019 July 19-22, 2019 — Whale Shark Festival, Isla Mujeres, Mexico: July and August are the best times to swim with these gentle giants. whalesharkfest.com June 21-22, 2019 — Nashville’s Hot Air Balloon Festival & Polo Match, Nashville, Tennessee: “Balloons. Polo. Fashion. Food.” Buy parking and tickets in advance. victorycup.org/nashville July 2, 2019 — Solar Eclipse: This eclipse traverses parts of Argentina and Chile, ending just to the west of Buenos Aires at sunset. Bonus: A second eclipse will be visible in nearby areas of Argentina and Chile on December 14, 2020. www.eclipse-chasers.com/html/tseFuture.shtml August 16–18, 2019 — Family Adventure Academy, Seattle, Washington, United States: Conference organizers say this event for parents will “teach you everything we wish we had known when we started our family travel adventures.” www.familyadventureacademy.com August 25, 2019 — National Park Service Birthday: free entrance to National Parks!

10 | Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

September 2019 — Free entrance to National Parks for 4th graders; valid through August 2020 www.everykidinapark.gov September 11–13, 2019 — TBEX North America in Billings, Montana tbexcon.com Fall 2019 — Arizona State Parks & Trails Family Campouts: These events require no prior camping experience and show families how to enjoy the Arizona outdoors. September 14-15, 2019 – Tonto Natural Bridge State Park (Payson) September 21-22, 2019 – Slide Rock State Park (Sedona) October 5-6, 2019 – Cattail Cove State Park (Lake Havasu) October 12-13, 2019 – Kartchner Caverns State Park (Benson) October 26-27, 2019 – Roper Lake State Park (Safford) November 2-3, 2019 – Oracle State Park (Tucson) November 30-December 1, 2019 – Lost Dutchman State Park (Apache Junction) azstateparks.com/family-camp September 28, 2019 — National Public Lands Day: free entrance to National Parks! October 5–13, 2019 — Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta www.visitalbuquerque.org/event/albuquerqueinternational-balloon-fiesta November 11, 2019 — Veteran’s Day: free entrance to National Parks!

THIS PAGE – MARIUSZ BLACH/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; PAGE 11 – COURTESY OF STONE SOUP

June 1–15, 2019 — Yosemite National Park Camera Walk: This 1 ½ hour guided walk is free and offered Thursdays and Saturdays at 9 a.m.; advance registration is required. www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/calendar.htm

TRAVEL TRENDS

Astrid Vinje

Creating Communities Through Family Travel M

ore families than ever are opting to take their kids out into the world, whether for short getaways or long-term adventures. As the number of families who travel grows, so does their desire to connect with other travel-loving families. For families who long to be part of a travel tribe, attending a family travel event is a great way to establish a sense of community. From family retreats to travel conferences, here is a selection of upcoming family travel events for 2019, each one focused on learning, connecting, and fostering communities.

Project World School Retreats The Project World School retreats aim to create temporary learning communities for traveling families. By diving deep into cultures around the world, participants gain more insight into themselves. Upcoming retreats include a 15-day retreat in Peru from June 17–July 1, and a 27-day retreat in Wales from August 15–September 7. www.projectworldschool.com

At Home in the World Retreats At Home in the World’s 14-day retreat aims to help families connect on a deeper level to themselves and each other. Within an intimate setting, families explore ways to better communicate and strengthen their relationships as a family. The next retreat takes place in Transylvania, Romania from July 1–14. www.athomeintheworldretreat.com

Worldschool Academies Each Worldschool Academy offers families seeking transformative travel experiences an opportunity to connect with unique cultures around the world. At they same time, they’re also a chance to connect as a family. The upcoming Worldschool Academy is happening in Mongolia from July 11–22. www.worldschoolacademy.com

Pura Vida Peace Camp This kids-only Spanish immersion summer camp offers kids a chance to experience the culture of Costa Rica while developing a greater awareness of the world around them. Family activities on the weekends allow parents to join in on exploring the local sites. Peace Camp runs from July 15–19 and July 22–26 in Guanacaste, Costa Rica. www.familygoglobal.com

Stone Soup This month-long pop up community brings families together to share their knowledge with one another. Families contribute a workshop, skill, or service to the group and are expected to participate in sessions throughout the month. The event takes place in Amed, Indonesia from August 30–September 28. www.stonesouppopup.com

Family Adventure Academy Families interested in taking a step towards full-time travel can attend the Family Adventure Academy, happening in Seattle, Washington from August 16–18. This adults-only event offers indepth workshops to prepare families for living life on the road. www.familyadventureacademy.com

Family Adventure Summit The Family Adventure Summit, happening from October 2–6 in Ubud, Indonesia, helps families create a more travel-filled life. This family-friendly conference features speakers who will discuss a variety of topics on long-term family travel, and also features a children’s program. www.familyadventuresummit.com

Project World School Family Summit For families curious about how to create enriching travel experiences for their families, the Project World School Family Summit is a great starting-off point. This multi-day, familyfriendly event will take place in Grenada, Spain from October 14–18. The summit also has a dedicated children’s program. www.worldschoolfamilysummit.com

Worldschooling Central Worldschooling Central also organizes family trips to destinations around the world. Check its website for information on its upcoming adventures, including two weeks in Egypt November 10–23. www.worldschoolingcentraltravel.com Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

GEAR UP

Tents T

here are few better ways to get away from it all than to pitch a tent and spend a few days camping. It’s a chance to spend some quality screen-free family time playing games, exploring new places, or lounging around together reading and listening to the radio. It’s also a welcome opportunity to break all the usual rules; chocolate for breakfast — why not? Of course, camping is far easier if you have the right gear. The single most important piece of gear is a good quality tent. If you don’t get that right, your camping experience could very well be uncomfortable (and potentially wet, depending on the weather). Some of the most important things to consider when buying a tent are size, ease of setup, and durability. First, think about the needs of your family. You may have small children now, but kids grow and families can expand in a few short years. Plan ahead and select a tent with room for growth; it may be wise to purchase a tent with the capacity to sleep one to two additional people more than you need (so for a family of four, choose a six-person tent). Also, a tent will seem a lot roomier if you can stand up to full height in it. Purchasing a tent from a specialist camping or outdoors shop is often more worthwhile than buying online. Knowledgeable sales staff can give you professional advice on which tent to select, and you can examine each product firsthand. Generally, the more poles a tent has, the longer setup will take. If you arrive at your destination late at night or in the rain, you don’t want to struggle with ropes and hooks any more than necessary. Ask the experts in the shop about the complexity of the setup and, if possible, for a partial demonstration. A quality tent should have folded seams and double stitching, and the flooring should be one solid piece of material to prevent leaks. In addition, make sure the tent has a quality rainfly that covers the entire roof and full sides. This is your tent’s umbrella to keep out water in the event of a downpour. The following models of tents are all great choices for family camping.

12 | Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Mary Donne

Vango Capri Air 400XL Tent

MSR Elixir 4 Tent

$585

$299

Available on Amazon

Available at MSR and REI

This 4-person tent uses air beams instead of conventional poles, and the rainfly and tent pitch at the same time, so this tent is very easy to pitch. Its “hanging system” with little hooks along the beam structures is great for organizing as it allows you to hang flashlights and anything you don’t want lying around on the floor. Its “lights-out” interior shields sleeping campers from the bright morning sun (or afternoon sun, for kiddos who still need naps).

Planning a trip further afield that will require you to pack in a tent? This lightweight backpacking tent sleeps four adults with room for gear, and has two doors and vestibules for easy entry and access to covered gear storage. It’s built with enough headroom for adults to sit comfortably inside. Its “attic” storage helps keep gear organized and can hold a flashlight in place for late-night card games. The colorcoded poles make setup easy, and its full-coverage rainfly can be set up quickly with just the poles and tent footprint (included) if you arrive at camp in the rain.

REI Co-op Grand Hut 6 Tent $349 Available at REI At 6½ feet tall, this tent offers plenty of headroom. The walls are nearly vertical, so you can stand comfortably while inside. The rainfly completely covers the entire tent, keeping you and your gear dry in less-than-ideal weather. The pole system uses a single hub and quick clips for fast and easy setup. It includes two large doors for easy entry and lots of air flow.

TENT VIEW: OLEKSANDR KOTENKO/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; REI TENT: COURTESY OF REI; MSR TENT: COURTESY OF MSR

Cabela’s Alaskan Guide Model Geodesic 8-Person Tent $550 Available at Cabela’s and Bass Pro Shops If protection from the elements is at the top of the list, this is the tent for you! This spacious tent is ultra rugged and designed to repel rain and snow storms. Weighing in at over 41 pounds (18.5 kg), it is easier to set up with at least two people and is better for base camp than a weekend in the backcountry. With plenty of gear storage panels, this tent can go up and stay up for extended trips, even in extreme weather.

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

SOCIAL MEDIA

Astrid Vinje

Where Will You Take Your Family? F

amily travel isn’t just about visiting theme parks, cruises, and all-inclusive resorts. These traveling families take a more adventurous approach by traveling with their children around the world. Exploring antiquity Greece is a family-friendly destination for @mamatravelpants. From the island of Mykonos to the rock formations of Meteora, this family shows that Greece has plenty to offer kids.

The perfect time to start travel Now is the perfect time to start traveling with kids. @los_mosqueras believes even babies can experience the joys of travel and adventure. This family views places like Morocco, Japan, Thailand, and even Brazil as ideal destinations for kids.

@mamatravelpants Checking off the bucket list The ancient city of Petra, Jordan has always been a bucket-list destination for @flashpacking_family. Rather than waiting until the kids are older, this family decided to visit while the kids are still young. @flashpacking_family

14 | Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

An opportunity to bond Sometimes the destination doesn’t really matter; it’s what you do there that counts! For @marcieinmommyland, travel is a way for her sons to connect with each other, whether they’re in Hawai‘i or elsewhere in the world. @marcieinmommyland

BABY IN AIR: JACQUIE HALE; APPROACHING PETRA: MAMATRAVELPANTS; BABY AT BEACH: TANJA UZMAH MOSQUERA; BOYS ON WALL: MARCIE CHEUNG

@los_mosqueras

op/ed

Astrid Vinje

he sun shines through the window on a Sunday afternoon as my family and I relax in the living room of our Airbnb in La Fortuna, Costa Rica. Our two kids watch a movie together while my husband and I work on our laptops. For our full-time traveling family, life is often unexpected and uncertain. But one thing that has made our travel experiences feel more like home is staying at Airbnbs.

16 | Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Within the travel industry, Airbnb is a relative newbie, with roughly 11 years of operation under its belt. And like a new kid on the block, people arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sure what to make of it. Is it a vacation rental platform? Is it a booking site? Are you actually staying in a strangerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home? In reality, Airbnb is all of these things. Airbnb is an online platform that allows travelers to rent rooms or homes for short term. The platform began as a

MANDY MOONEYHAM

Airbnb Impacts Local Communities (for Good and Bad)

mindful approach to how we use Airbnb as travelers? home-sharing network, with home owners offering rooms in For my family, we opt for the third choice. We know that in their homes to travelers. These days, it is a full-blown booking many cities, Airbnb does impact the demographics of certain platform, where travelers book not only rooms, but also neighborhoods. But we also know that not every Airbnb host is a experiences (like dinner or a sailing lesson) with locals. It’s also wealthy business owner looking to buy properties just to convert a potential business opportunity for hosts. In popular tourist them into short term rentals. We know this because many of the destinations, listing a home on Airbnb can be quite lucrative. Airbnb hosts we meet are regular people, just like us. The beauty My husband and I started using the platform back in 2009. of Airbnb is that unlike hotels, profiles of the hosts are available. At that time, there were only a few cities with listings on Airbnb. Even if communication only occurs via the platform, renters can Now, however, there are more than six million listings in over still read their reviews and see where they're based. With hotels, 81,000 cities around the world. it’s not always apparent who owns the properties. I’m not always Airbnb is instrumental in changing the way people travel. For certain whether my money is supporting a local business or an families especially, renting an Airbnb can be more economical international chain. than booking a room at a traditional hotel. In La Fortuna, our Airbnb host is a veterinarian who rents But not everyone in the travel industry is happy with Airbnb. out an apartment in her family home to guests. The income she For one thing, hotels are feeling the pinch of Airbnb’s presence earns through Airbnb supports her father, mother, sister, and on their bottom line. According to the 2018-2019 Portrait of son, who all live in the same complex the American Traveler, which as the Airbnb property. In Seattle, surveys travel trends and habits for one of the Airbnb hosts we know Americans, 27% of travelers now use converted a room above his garage sharing economy lodging options So what are we as Airbnb users to do? into an Airbnb rental and uses the like Airbnb. For hotels, this means Should we return to staying exclusively income from Airbnb to pay his they now receive a much smaller daughter’s college tuition. And we share of the travel market. at hotels, at the expense of our pocket have friends who list their home on Even local governments books? Should we turn a blind eye to the Airbnb during family vacations to are taking notice of Airbnb and impact Airbnb has on the communities offset the cost of their travels. experimenting with ways to regulate Of the three dozen Airbnb Airbnb and earn revenue from where it operates? Or should we take a properties we’ve booked throughout property owners on that platform. I more mindful approach to how we use the years, all were owned by learned from our host in La Fortuna Airbnb as travelers? individuals rather than large that the Costa Rican government corporations, and only about a third requires Airbnb hosts to pay income were owned by hosts with multiple and sales tax on income earned from Airbnb listings. The rest were hosts Airbnb. This is similar to the tax with single listings who simply use Airbnb as a way to earn extra requirements for Costa Rica hotels. In my hometown of Seattle, income. These hosts are everyday people looking to capitalize on the city government requires owners to have a short-term rental what they have. license and limits Airbnb properties to two units per owner. The For our family, the key is being mindful of the Airbnb city collects taxes on each rental. properties we choose. When we can, we book locally-owned The travel news company Skift reports that in cities such as Airbnbs, and we do our best to frequent local businesses to Lisbon and Barcelona, Airbnb properties have pushed locals out support the local economy. Most importantly, we keep a low of their neighborhoods. Property owners now choose to offer profile, so that our presence doesn’t disrupt the communities we their units as short-term Airbnb rentals for travelers, rather than visit. For Airbnb users, this is a way to counteract the negative as long-term rentals for locals – or worse, to sell to real estate impact of Airbnb, and travel in general, on communities around investment companies that buy up vacant properties. I saw the world. this firsthand in La Fortuna, a city of only 15,000 people, where At the end of the day, travel is about choice. We choose where Airbnb listings number in the hundreds. we want to go for vacation. We choose the activities we do and So what are we as Airbnb users to do? Should we return the food we eat. And we choose the places we want to stay. As to staying exclusively at hotels, at the expense of our pocket travelers, it’s up to us to make the right choice. Platforms like books? Should we turn a blind eye to the impact Airbnb has on Airbnb are just a means to help us make that choice. the communities where it operates? Or should we take a more Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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Interview

Fiona Croucher

Backpacking with Lidia L

otta Clifford switches accents flawlessly as she pronounces the countries, cities, towns, and attractions she backpacked through in Latin America, alternating between her native British English, Spanish, and Portuguese. She remembers the details of every place – the food, the people, and the atmosphere – which for her are more than just names on a map. She spent 15 months in Latin America attending university and traveling while immersing herself in the cultures and languages — and, incredibly, she did it all with her little girl in tow. Now back in Colchester, England, Lotta and her 6-year-old daughter Lidia are living a more conventional life while she finishes her university degree. Once finished, they’ll take off again, as both are eager to get back on the road. Lotta’s love of travel began many years ago when she was working on cruise ships in Latin America. She picked up the Spanish language from working on the ships and spending time in the countries where they docked. Her home base was in the Dominican Republic where she and her partner at the time became pregnant in 2012. Lotta returned to the UK to have her baby. She suffered a life-threatening stroke while eight months pregnant and had another when her baby was just 8 weeks old. Fortunately, she sustained no lasting effects, and the two returned to the Dominican Republic to spend time with baby Lidia’s father. The family spoke only Spanish at home. When the relationship with Lidia’s father ended, Lotta and Lydia returned to the UK. After

living in a developing country, Lotta believes that education is a privilege. Grateful for the opportunities available in the UK, Lotta enrolled in a degree program in Spanish, Portuguese and Brazilian Studies at the University of Essex in 2015. One requirement for Lotta’s degree was to complete part of her studies in Brazil, so when Lidia was just 4 years old in 2017, she left the UK to attend two semesters at the Universidade Federal da Bahia in Salvador. During the time Lotta attended classes, Lidia either attended a local kindergarten or went to the University with her mom. Since Lidia’s first language was Spanish, she could understand much of the Brazilian Portuguese and was able to start speaking it soon after they arrived in Brazil. Lidia now has a native-level understanding of Spanish, Portuguese, and English. It took Lidia a while to find the confidence to speak English once they returned to England, but Lotta is confident she will soon catch up. The mother-daughter duo were on the road for a total of 15 months, eight of which they spent in Salvador while Lotta attended the University. The rest of the time, they backpacked through Brazil, Mexico, Colombia, Paraguay, Bolivia, Argentina, Peru, Cuba, the Dominican Republic, and Chile. They stayed up to a month in each country, usually moving between towns every three to four days. They stayed in hostel dorms both to save money and to meet other travelers; one bed was all they needed while Lidia was still small. Traveling as a single parent wasn’t easy, but one of Lotta’s strategies was to travel light. Lotta Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

didn’t waste any time before approaching any children she met, and being able to converse in three languages was very advantageous. Travel is nothing if not a teacher, and some lessons are harder than others. For example, when she first arrived in Salvador, Lotta once forgot to take off her gold chain and someone pulled it from her neck. She feels partly at fault for this; “you need to be responsible,” she says. “You want to blend in and not draw attention to yourself.” This travel hiccup notwithstanding, Lotta says she loves Brazil, adding “it’s one of the most dangerous countries [in Latin America], but it’s also got the best nature and it’s very child-friendly.” The most memorable experiences of their entire trip were

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staying in a village in the Brazilian Amazon jungle, climbing the sacred mountain of Huayna Picchu in Peru, and visiting Fernando de Noronha, a group of islands off the easternmost point of Brazil. Part of the experience was in the journey getting there. To access the jungle village, the two first flew from Brasilia to Manaus, the capital city of the Brazilian state of Amazonas. They then took a three-hour journey by car, then speed boat, and finally canoe. Their Amazon experiences included canoe trips on the river and piranha fishing, jungle walks, visiting a local school, sleeping in a hammock, and learning how to make juice from açaí, a local fruit. They saw pink river dolphins and visited a traditional indigenous house. Lotta says they got “natureshock” from being in such an undeveloped region but found it an incredible experience. She recommends a very strong insect repellent for anyone planning to go! At Machu Picchu in Peru, they hiked to the summit of Huayna Picchu, the tallest mountain peak seen in the iconic photos. Lidia was the youngest child that day to hike to the top of the very steep mountain — no easy feat, considering the prevalent warnings about fitness level, fear of heights, and altitude sickness. Lotta describes their visit to the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha as a once-in-a-lifetime experience, despite the brutal 27-hour bus ride and ensuing flight to get there. A UNESCO World Heritage site with strict environmental and tourism regulations, it is often touted as the Galapagos of Brazil. Parts of the island are reserved for maritime research so while visitors can’t swim in every location, Lotta and Lidia were able to take a boat tour and see pods of dolphins in the stunning blue waters. A second tour took them to other beaches with restricted access where they were able to swim and snorkel with turtles, stingrays, and many other kinds of local marine life. Lotta filmed many of these adventures on her iPhone and created informative videos in both English and Spanish on her YouTube channel for people who might want to travel there. Despite spending so much time on the South American continent, Lotta still talks of so many places she wasn’t able to see as well as the places to which she longs to return. “I have left with a longer list than I went there with!” Most travelers can relate to that. She plans to finish her degree this year and, combined with a Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages (TESOL) certificate, leave the UK to work abroad, perhaps in Spain or back to South or Central America. She also intends to take Lidia backpacking through Southeast Asia. You can watch Lotta and Lidia’s adventures on their YouTube channel, Backpacking with Lidia, and see their photos on Instagram.

ALL PHOTOS PAGES 19–21: LOTTA CLIFFORD

and Lidia each traveled with a backpack with wheels (so Lidia could manage her own luggage) as well as straps (so Lotta could manage both bags if necessary, like when Lidia was asleep and had to be carried). Because her year abroad was obligatory for her degree, Lotta was able to pay for their travels partially from her student financing from the UK, and covered the rest with savings. Lotta says they lived on a strict budget, and staying in hostels was a huge money saver. Lotta packed dolls for Lidia’s entertainment, but even the few they packed were eventually lost. They purchased some other toys along the way, but Lidia preferred playing with other children. As a result of their traveling lifestyle, she was able to quickly identify other children around her age and make friends with them easily. Because they moved frequently, Lidia

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

JUST GO

Genny Arredondo

FLYING WITH KIDS

he thought of spending a few hours confined on an airplane with an unpredictable and sometimes irrational tiny person can leave even the most patient parent and experienced traveler feeling a bit nervous. But there’s good news: thoughtful pre-trip planning, age-appropriate flight entertainment, and a good stash of snacks can go a long way towards keeping kids happy and occupied on a flight. Pre-Trip Planning: Scheduling Considerations. Parents need to consider what works best for each child. Those with kiddos who can get comfortable and sleep anywhere may have more flexibility in scheduling their travels. On the flip side, parents with little ones who don’t sleep easily in transit may want to limit the length of flights and schedule around sleep when possible. For kids that like to move, a well-timed or longer layover can provide some much needed physical activity or rest; consider making a layover part of the trip by staying overnight and visiting a local attraction or museum. Expect the Unexpected. A spare set of clothes (preferably dark, since they hide spills and stains best) can make a world of difference. This is often necessary for parents and kids alike, as

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adults can get dirty too while assisting little ones. If the thought of traveling with wet or stained clothing sounds unappealing, sticking an extra outfit in a carry-on is advisable. Also, infants can soil what may seem like an outrageous number of diapers in a single flight, particularly during take-off and landing. Having a few extra diapers or extra baby clothes handy is never a bad idea. Pack a Ziploc bag to contain dirty clothes until reaching the destination. In Flight Entertainment: Make Time Fly. Sitting strapped into an uncomfortable seat for an extended stretch of time (real or perceived) can feel painful and awful for kids of any age. Parents can help pass the time by having age-appropriate activities or toys on hand to help keep kids happy. Here are a few tried and true activities that are sure to please kids of different ages. • Babies (< 1 yrs): Babies under 1 tend to be fairly happy travelers. A soft toy, board book with flaps, baby mirror, or impromptu peek-a-boo game should keep this age entertained between meal times and naps. Remember to nurse, bottle feed, or provide a pacifier during take-off and landing to avoid ear pain.

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• Toddlers (1-3 yrs): This can be the trickiest age to entertain, as they are mobile and often want to move. Some entertainment ideas include window clings, post-its, rolls of tape, large stickers, soft sided photo albums (complete with pictures of family or pets), small wrapped presents, homemade Cheerio necklaces, or thick crayons and paper. If all else fails and the seat belt sign is turned off, some social toddlers may enjoy walking down the aisle and greeting other friendly passengers. • Preschoolers (3-5 yrs): While able to sit for a while longer than toddlers, preschoolers can also get restless. This age group often enjoys activity or coloring books, stickers, pipe cleaners, and Wikki Stix wax sculpting sticks. Another idea is to create an “I Spy” bag by filling a clear pencil case with rice and small trinkets and asking the child find various items in the case. • Gradeschoolers (5-12 yrs): Traveling with kids in this age group is typically more manageable since they have larger attention spans and can sit for longer periods of time. That being said, kids this age can get bored and may appreciate invisible ink books, secret decoder activity books, word searches, origami, Mad Libs, riddles, and books or magazines on topics that interest them. A side note on technology: while many families find technology helpful during travel, not all parents are keen on their kids being “plugged in.” If open to using technology to help keep kids occupied on a flight, bring a fully charged tablet or device loaded with kids’ favorite shows or apps so they are easy to access. While some planes are equipped with in-flight entertainment systems, personal headphones are often required and provided shows may not be appropriate for kids of all ages. But don’t rely entirely on technology — there are times (such as take-off and landing) when use of larger electronic devices is not allowed or in-flight entertainment may be paused. Furthermore, technology alone may not suffice in keeping a child occupied for the entire duration of a long flight. Snacks To Pack: Snacks are PARAMOUNT! Seriously, snacks can be a lifesaver on a flight. Not only do kids have small tummies and need to eat often, but a favorite snack can diffuse a potential meltdown. Bring a snack (or five) per kid. The snacks needed depend on kids’ ages, typical snacking behavior, and the duration of the flight. Relying on airplane food is not advised, as snacks are not always available, purchasing food on the plane be expensive, and favorite food choices may not be on the menu. Plan on bringing snacks from home or consider buying a few items at the airport prior to boarding (but consider passengers with food allergies and kindly leave the nuts behind). With a little forethought, planning, and the suggestions above, the flight can be among the smoothest parts of a trip. Plan wisely, pack smartly, and get out there as a family and enjoy all the world has to offer!

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

ESSAY

Not Over the Hill: A Climb to the Top of Angel’s Landing

“Y

ou’re traveling alone?,” a young fellow hiker asks, with a longer emphasis on “alone.” I laugh, feeling the creases of crow’s feet around the edges of my eyes. I know what it must seem like to her, to all of them. Why would anyone take a trip alone for her 40th birthday? We had just started hiking the incline on the West Rim Trail of Angel’s Landing in Zion National Park. The trail follows the narrow spine of a hanging valley, perched like a cathedral in the middle of the canyon. The peak was named by a Methodist clergyman, Frederick Fisher, who thought “only an angel could land on it.” It’s a thrilling 2 ½ miles (4 km) up to the final viewpoint roughly 1,500 feet (457 m) above the canyon floor.

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Tonya Miller

The perch itself is ringed on three sides like a horseshoe by the Virgin River. Our guide, Sierra, is a 20-year-old college student majoring in outdoor recreation who has spent the past two summers interning in Zion. Two other girls complete our group. Shelby, 24, is finishing her master’s in finance and trying to answer “what’s next?” Her cousin Paige, 20, is a week away from leaving for a study abroad program in Australia, which will also take her through New Zealand and Bali. As we ascend from the canyon floor, passing scrub oaks and squatty pinion pines, we ease into small talk. Sierra and I discuss our mutual college major, while Shelby, Paige, and I swap epic travel tales like treasured baseball cards. The irony of hiking with three women half my age on this particular birthday is not lost on me. We push forward, basking in the breeze of Refrigerator Canyon, a sheltered side valley lined by dark vertical walls of Navajo sandstone. This paved section of trail enjoys shade all day, allowing maple, ash, and Douglas fir to thrive in this unusual microclimate. As this birthday approached, “over the hill” card sentiments and movies depicting uncool, middle-aged parents made turning 40 feel like the beginning of the end — an age when people had already had their fun and were settling into an adventure-less existence. It didn’t seem to fit me. Most days, I felt strong and empowered, especially after a tough workout or a night out with friends. Other times, I’d go to my yoga mat to quiet my mind and listen to those darker feelings. They were the whispers of every mom I know: “I need time for myself.” I wished I could go to the bathroom alone, eat a meal I didn’t have to prepare, or maybe read a book, uninterrupted. I needed to feel alive again, to visit an old friend who just happened to be me. We push ahead on the trail, hunched forward and breathing heavily as we ascend Walter’s Wiggles, a set of 21 steep and compact switchbacks. I slow down to protect my knees and keep my breath steady while the girls chat and accelerate their pace effortlessly. Their bodies move with the urgency of people who have somewhere to be and the freedom of not having anyone to care for but themselves. I envy them, their youthful vigor and ambition. Their lives seem filled with wonder and possibility. When I was their age, I moved to Alaska to climb mountains on a whim with only $30 USD and a backpack. Six months later, I cleaned toilets and made beds on a cruise ship to pay my way through college. Then I was off to run an outdoor adventure camp in Okinawa while learning to scuba dive. Some years later, I backpacked across Southeast Asia and Costa Rica with my first serious boyfriend. When we reach the top of the dizzying Wiggles, we stop to

catch our breath at Scout’s Lookout. Here, we marvel at the knife-edge ridge we will traverse to the summit. It’s a strenuous and exposed climb where safety chains are bolted into the sandstone to keep hikers from falling off. “This final half mile is where things get tricky,” Sierra tells us. “And it gets really narrow, where the sides just drop off,” Paige says, recalling the last time she hiked the trail. A devilish grin pushes my oversized sunglasses up on my face. “Now this is my kind of hike,” I say. There was a time when adventures like these seemed infinite. I’d spend the day hiking or rock climbing, then mix drinks and pull pints at night. The next night, I might be bungee jumping off of a railroad suspension bridge, illegally. Now, adulthood feels like a betrayal of my younger self, like she’s glaring at me from the back of the room while I cook dinner or wash dishes: “Is this it? Is this the best we can do? What happened to your spontaneity, your passion?,” she asks, as if she’s been trailing me all these years and I can’t explain my choices to her. The saddle, the next section of trail that Paige mentioned, is a little over two feet wide, with sheer 1000-foot drop-offs on each side. The swaying metal chains provide little comfort, but I hold onto them anyway, carefully placing one foot in front of the other. My companions’ conversations fade as my pulse rises and the sound of my breath amplifies. I’ve never been so nervous. A few years ago I would have run across this, but now that I’m a mom, carelessness just seems stupid. I wasn’t always so cautious. When my daughter was just two months old, I guessed at her dose of Tylenol rather than consulting a physician as directed on the label. Trying to elude the insecurity of new motherhood, I winged it. Then, secondguessing myself, I called the pediatrician’s office for reassurance — and they immediately patched me through to poison control. “What did I do?,” I thought. Holding the phone in one hand and my baby in the other, I paced the room, drowning in shame. After a series of questions and seemingly endless clicks from the woman on the other end of the line, she finally told me we were fine. Something in me flipped. I could no longer treat motherhood like any other adventure, with no appreciation for caution or consequences. As we carefully make our way up Angel’s Landing, holding tightly onto the bolted chains, our conversations grow deeper, more vulnerable, the way it usually does when women get together. The girls ask me about my life: “How did you meet your husband?” “How long have you been married?” “Do you have kids?” As I answer, I imagine it gives them hope and maybe even a sprinkle of fantasy. “It seems like it all worked out for you,” Shelby says, as if marriage and children are her end goal. She steps off the trail

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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and we join her for a water break, taking in the scrub oaks, manzanitas, and junipers that cling to the steep slopes. They grow in cracks and crevices, their roots reaching deep into the rocks searching for available water. The junipers look like Japanese bonsais, as if they’ve been carefully pruned and shaped and then placed for all to see. A bit like my life, I think. I don’t tell them about the times I’ve been folding laundry and turned up the music so I could cry into the warm towels I pulled out of the dryer. Or that I’ve struggled with bouts of sadness and longing, like tiny paper cuts that graze the skin; they’re so small, but everything I do hurts. We finally reach the summit, taking in the panoramic view of bright copper and cream hues brushed into the sheer walls of the canyon. The sun is high above us, illuminating the valley below. Sierra tells us that Zion was a vast desert hundreds of millions of years ago, before strong winds moved the sand that would later be compressed into sandstone and carved by the Virgin River to form the massive walls before us. We can see the reminders of the dunes in the cross-bedded strata of the park’s cliffs. We find a spot to sit and eat our lunches, pulling food out of our packs one morsel at a time so the aggressively friendly chipmunks can’t run off with our meal. After a long pause, Shelby confesses that she’s years from a meaningful relationship and wonders if she will ever marry and have a family. “You’re living the questions,” I say, smiling with empathy. “What do you mean?,” she asks, as Paige and Sierra look at me curiously. “It was a quote I came across when I was your age,” I tell them. Slowly, I recite the words by Rainer Maria Rilke seared into my memory all those years ago: “Be patient toward all that is unsolved in your heart and try to love the questions themselves, like locked rooms and like books that are now written in a very foreign tongue. Do not now seek the answers, which cannot be given you because you would not be able to live them. And the point is, to live everything. Live the questions now. Perhaps you will then gradually, without noticing it, live along some distant day into the answer.” As Rilke’s words echo in my mind, I wonder if we ever live along into the answer. Just when I think I’ve answered “who am I?,” a variation of it appears, “... as a wife?,” “... as a mother?” — and it goes on like that, like a set of Russian nesting dolls. Before we leave, we take turns posing for pictures: a few on the edge of a cliff with our feet dangling over, some of the landscape itself. Finally, feeling giddy and impulsive, I hand my camera to Shelby and ask her to take my picture. I take off my down-filled vest and place it meticulously on the uneven sandstone to protect my head, like a cautious mom would do, then I flip into a headstand. As Shelby takes my picture, the girls laugh. “What are you doing?,” Paige asks in surprise. “I just wanted to see what it looks like upside down.”

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Beat the Rat Race

Kris Gadsby

Seven Steps to a Life of Travel I

t seems every social media account these days is chock full of people in spectacular locations, living the dream. There is a growing trend worldwide of people doing away with the 9-to5 grind in favor of a lifestyle of adventure. Social media doesn’t tell the whole story, however. Leaving home to live a travel life takes the right mindset, planning and organization, a clear goal, and a step-by-step approach. So pack your gumption, adventurous spirit, positive attitude, and wanderlust, and make your dreams into reality! Step 1. Plan a Mindset for Travel No longer content with being discontent? Make some changes. Living and working abroad can mean more time together living on less. Our story began when our family with three school-aged children and a brand new baby suddenly found ourselves in a terrible financial situation. We had a few investment properties that decreased dramatically in value thanks to a downturn in the housing market, and we avoided nearly going bankrupt by selling them off at rock-bottom prices simply to avoid foreclosure. Instead of just working more to pay more on mortgage interest, we decided that this life — working hard and not seeing our kids, just to pay the bank — was not for us at all. We needed a simpler life. This change in thinking set us off on a gap year around the world with our four kids ages 9, 7, 5, and 2. Deciding to go is only the beginning. You’ll need a flexible and positive point of view to help deal with immigration, new languages, culture shock, and overseas emergencies.

Step 2. Start Saving Try to reduce your monthly expenses as much as possible by foregoing unnecessary expenses. Take on extra overtime at work to help build up savings for travel. Make a literal piggy bank on your kitchen counter and throw in all of your spare cash. Funnel everything you save into a savings fund that accumulates interest, and treat that money as “untouchable” for day-to-day expenses. We contributed to our savings by changing our routine. Taking our kids out of school to begin a homeschool journey enabled us to save on school fees and transportation costs. Clipping coupons or saving on gas money probably won’t build enough to buy a plane ticket, but every little bit helps. Step 3. Find Work Abroad Consider how you will maintain cash flow. Can you find remote work in your current profession or even with your current employer? Are your skills or profession in demand overseas? Do you know how to make money as an Amazon seller, blogger, YouTuber, affiliate marketer, social media manager, web designer, paid influencer, or freelance writer, or are you willing to learn? Do you have the time to take a course such as Teach English as a Foreign Language (TEFL) or yoga teacher training that will make it possible for you to gain employment in another country? Step 4. List Your House If you own your house, consider selling or renting it long term. You can use those funds to invest in a camper van to road trip your way out of the rat race or to pay for plane tickets. We Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

have rented our house out on a long-term lease and hope to sell it in another year or so. The lease provides enough money to cover the mortgage and home expenses while we are away, but our plan is to sell it as the market continues to improve. Step 5. Manage Your Stuff Spending years in a home is sure to accumulate more stuff than you need, especially with kids. Some families strive for full minimalism and reduce their belongings down to just a few suitcases, but that can be hard to achieve. For others, packing life into a storage container can be ambitious enough. Our family does plan on returning to Australia someday, so we stored our major appliances and furniture. We still managed to part with the majority of our stuff, though. We sold or gave away things like toys, throw cushions, old bikes, and anything we hadn’t used in a year, and our garage sale earned a bit more cash for our trip. Step 6. Decide Where To Go Selecting your first destination is easier said than done, especially when you have an entire world at your fingertips. Where do you go when you can go anywhere? Choosing a country with a low cost of living can make what you have stretch further. Research housing costs, grocery bills, and health care expenses in your desired locations and plan a

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Step 7. Select a Departure Date As Nelson Mandela has observed, “Vision without action is just a dream.” The best way to turn your dream into a plan is to set a departure date and book a flight. In selecting a departure date, avoid peak travel periods, school holidays, monsoon seasons, and extreme temperatures at your destinations, but be flexible in order to get the best flight deals. Also consider notice periods for leaving work and the amount of time it will take to get prepared at home. It took my family about 10 months from when we decided to pursue a life on the road to get us here, living the dream in Bali. If you want to escape the rat race, having a dream is not enough. You need to make a plan and put that plan into action. Get planning!

Kris is part of an inspiring family of six from North Queensland. They have decided to sell their belongings, throw caution to the wind, and travel worldwide for the next couple of years. Follow their adventures at gadsventure.com, instagram.com/gadsventure or facebook.com/gadsventure

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budget. You can have a holiday in your home country with a home swap and a few months away in a different city for a new experience, take a year to travel an entire country in an RV, or head overseas for a longer stay in a country with a lower cost of living. Of course, there are advantages and disadvantages to each. In your home country, the banking, language, communication, food, and travel are familiar — but you may want to go farther afield to experience new cultures. A trip to Europe, Australia, or the U.S. can be done on a budget by purchasing a camper van, cooking your own meals, and camping for free — but finding public lands outside established campgrounds can take a lot of planning. Southeast Asia and Central America are hotspots for longer trips, thanks to their low cost of living — although you may find the healthcare lacking in some countries or need to consider requirements or recommendations for vaccinations and anti-malarials. Our family chose Southeast Asia (for now). We plan on six months exploring Indonesia, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam; for purposes of schooling, the kids have already learned so much from the fabulous richness of culture here, without formal courses and homework. We certainly aren’t the only family living and traveling here either, so there are plenty of opportunities to meet up with other worldschoolers, particularly in places like Bali and Chiang Mai. And so far we’ve been healthy; we vaccinated for Typhoid and Hepatitis A and taught the kids not to drink the water out of the tap, and so far we have had only mild tummy bugs.

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

insider's guide

Sandy Dornsife

hen our family of four, including Danny, 13 months, and Lucy, 6, moved to Amman, Jordan, I never could have imagined just how deeply in love with the country we would fall. The amazing natural wonders and ancient architectural marvels alone make Jordan a country that should be on every travelerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bucket list, but it is the Jordanian people who truly make this country a must-see destination. They are kind and generous and welcome everyone with open arms.

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Amman, the capital city of Jordan, has a rich 9,000-year history. One of the main sites within the city is the Citadel, which lies atop the highest hill in central Amman. The Citadel contains a series of ruins occupied and rebuilt over and over since the Bronze Age. For better or worse, climbing and exploring is permitted without much restriction, which children will love. The other main site within Amman, the Roman Theater dating back to the 2nd Century, lies directly below the Citadel. Two small museums lie on either side of the theater and provide an interesting look at the history of the local culture. Be careful climbing with children as the amphitheater is quite steep and there are no handrails or fences. Next, venture into the old city, Al Balad, to get a true taste of Jordanian culture. This bustling area has barrels of spices, dates, nuts, and fruits, as well as souvenirs, local clothing, and anything else imaginable. It can be crowded and intimidating, but the people are friendly and not pushy when it comes to purchases. The Boulevard Arjaan by Rotana Great location with studio to 3-bedroom suite options www.rotana.com/arjaanhotelapartments/jordan/amman/theboulevardar jaanbyrotana/accommodation Amman Rotana Luxury hotel in a great location www.rotana.com/rotanahotelandresorts/jordan/amman/ammanrotana Sheraton Amman Al Nabil Hotel Moderately-priced hotel within easy distance of all major sites www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ammsi-sheraton-amman-al-nabil-hotel

2. JERASH

The town of Jerash is an hour north of Amman, an easy day trip from the city and a must-see destination for any history lover. The city’s history stretches through 6,500 years of continuous human occupation and boasts Greco-Roman ruins of such magnitude and quality that they rival those found in Rome itself. In fact, Jerash is widely known as the best preserved provincial Roman town in the world. Amphitheaters and columned streets abound. There is minimal shade, so bringing

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a lot of water on a hot day is a must. The footprint of this site is huge. A backpack carrier is a good idea for small children, and frequent breaks may be needed for older ones. The best strategy is to spend more time at a select few ruins, rather than racing around to see it all and risking exhaustion and meltdowns. After working up an appetite exploring, take some time to enjoy a meal at YaHala Restaurant or Lebanese House, both of which offer great local food (and, best of all, contain children’s play areas). Most travelers return to Amman for accommodations. 3. PETRA

Petra, the remains of a great Nabatean trading metropolis established over 2,000 years ago, is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Its main attraction is the Treasury, which

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1. AMMAN

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is featured in the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. This remarkable structure is carved directly into the sandstone rock face. But there is much more to Petra, including the equally stunning Monastery located further into the the ruined city and at the top of 850 steps. The walk throughout Petra is generally flat and easily managed by older children, but bring a backpack carrier for younger children for when they get tired. It can also get pretty hot — it is the desert, after all — so bring plenty of water. Food and water can be purchased along the walk, but it is best to come prepared. A variety of animals are offered up for transportation, including donkeys, horses, and camels, but due to the treatment of many of the animals in Petra, riding them can be unsafe for both the animal and the traveler; it is best to avoid them. Movenpick Resort Petra Expensive luxury accommodation adjacent to the Petra Visitor Center www.movenpick.com/en/middle-east/jordan/petra/resort-petra/overview Petra Guest House Moderate accommodation adjacent to the Petra Visitor Center www.guesthouse-petra.com Petra Marriott Hotel Farther from Petra’s entrance but significantly less expensive, with a beautiful view and pool www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/mpqmc-petra-marriott-hotel

4. WADI RUM

Wadi Rum lies 2 ½ hours south of Amman. Its red sand and stark cliffs feel otherworldly, a fact noticed by Hollywood; movies such as The Martian, Red Planet, Rogue One: A Star Wars Story, and the recently-released live action Aladdin have all been filmed here. Spending the night in one of the many Bedouin camps with traditional dinner and breakfast offered is an unforgettable experience. There are a variety of camps to fit every taste, from the most rugged to the equivalent of hotel

2 1 6

rooms in a tent. Children will enjoy running wild along sand dunes and scrambling over rocks. It is tempting to recreate a scene from Lawrence of Arabia (also filmed here) by riding a camel, but camels are far too slow to reach all of the highlights of this desert. Jeep tours are readily available at every camp and have the added benefit of being much more comfortable than a camel’s hump. Short, recreational camel rides, however, can be arranged. Many camps do not have their own websites, although all can be researched and booked online through booking sites like TripAdvisor and Orbitz, which post reviews and pictures. Sun City Camp Bedouin tents with beds and en suite bathrooms; “Martian” domes www.suncitycamp.com Rahayeb Desert Camp Varying levels of accommodations with options for shared and en suite bathrooms www.rahayebdc.com Memories Aicha Luxury Camp Luxury accommodations; panoramic bubble tents mlc.jo/en

5. AQABA

Aqaba is the perfect place to rejoin civilization after a night of “roughing it” under the stars at Wadi Rum. A small town less than an hour south of Wadi Rum, Aqaba rests along the coast of the Red Sea directly across from the Israeli beach town of Eilat. The area offers beautiful scenery both above and below the water, and a variety of activities are available for all ages. Those with young children who are not yet able to swim may enjoy a Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

corks in the water often elicits giggles — but, as with everything involving children, expectations must be managed. First, almost all children cry. People float so easily in the Dead Sea because of its high salt content, and salt can sting even the tiniest of open cuts. Adults are even advised to not shave the day before going into the Dead Sea because of the minor nicks shaving can cause. With their tendency for accidents, sensitive skin, and (let’s be honest) low tolerance for pain and discomfort, children seem to be particularly affected. The goal for many parents is to get the kids in the water quickly, take a picture, and then rush them out to wash off in the freshwater showers. Hopefully, the kids will then be patient enough to wait on the nearby sun chairs and allow their parents to drift around for a bit longer. After soaking in the Dead Sea, families can then walk back up to the hotel pool and enjoy the weather, which is usually at least 10–20° warmer than the rest of the country.

glass bottom boat tour, while families with older children can get a bit closer to the action with a snorkeling excursion. The truly adventurous can opt for a SCUBA diving trip to explore the natural sea floor as well as several man-made reefs and wrecks, including a tank, a C-130 aircraft, and a 262-foot (80-meter) Lebanese freighter. Just ensure that the tour company’s route goes south of the harbor towards the Saudi border to view the most beautiful areas of the sea, rather than lingering in the main city area. Of course, all other traditional water sports are also available, and the hotel concierge should be able assist in their arrangement. Movenpick Tala Bay Luxury resort; the best facilities and a beautiful beach, but far from town www.movenpick.com/en/middle-east/jordan/aqaba/resort-aqaba-talabay/overview Movenpick Resort and Residences Aqaba Luxury resort in town center with 1- to 4-bedroom suite options; very small beach area www.movenpick.com/en/middle-east/jordan/aqaba/resort-aqaba/ overview Doubletree by Hilton Aqaba Budget friendly resort in town center, but not on the beach https://doubletree3.hilton.com/en/hotels/jordan/doubletree-by-hiltonhotel-aqaba-AQJDTDI/index.html

6. DEAD SEA

Any trip to Jordan would not be complete without a trip to the Dead Sea. Floating weightlessly without effort is a truly unique and memorable experience. Smearing oneself from head to toe in Dead Sea mud and then bobbing around like

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Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea Luxury accommodation with an amazing assortment of pools and a spa www.kempinski.com/en/dead-sea/hotel-ishtar Dead Sea Marriott Resort and Spa Moderately-priced accommodation with a large pool with water slide and a spa www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/qmdjv-dead-sea-marriott-resort-and-spa

Additional Resources TRANSPORTATION

Within Amman: Taxis are safe but can be difficult to find. Ensure that taxi drivers run the meter, as scamming of unsuspecting visitors is not uncommon. Most places within the city can be reached for 1-3 Dinars ($1.50-$4.50 USD). More conveniently, Uber and its Arabic counterpart Careem are available within Amman and are safe, charge predetermined rates, and do not require use of Arabic to convey the destination. Outside Amman: Between road conditions and other drivers, driving can be challenging. Hiring a driver for visits to sites outside the city, an affordable and very common practice for visitors, is advisable. Regardless of who is behind the wheel, traveling during daylight hours is best, as there is no highway lighting in most of the country and nighttime drivers can be erratic. Contact drivers via Whatsapp, the main method of communication among Jordanians. All noted drivers speak fluent English and can provide driving services as well as airport transportation. Ali Atoun +962 79 570 3323 Abdelhamid Hamdi +962 79 915 9117 Assad Alfroukh +962 79 582 2036 FOOD

Hashem’s There is no written menu, but try some of everything: falafel (fried ground chickpea balls), hummus (mashed chickpea and tahini dip), moutabel (roasted eggplant dip), beyd wa batatam (eggs and potatoes), and fatteh (hummus with mashed pita and pine nuts). This is a great way to sample local fare for a low price. King Faisal Street Amman, Amman Governorate, Jordan

Al Quds The amazing falafel at this location has the novelty of being served on a bun instead of a pita. Spend the extra few piasters for the sesame bread instead of the plain white. Rainbow Street, Downtown Amman Nafeesah Many people claim that the best Arabic sweets can be found at the famous Habibah, but if there is only time for one stop, make it Nafeesah. Select an assortment of sweets to take away and a slice of knafeh (hot cheese dessert topped with shredded pastry and covered in sweet syrup — pure deliciousness) to eat right there and then. Several Locations including Seventh Circle and Second Circle TOP TIPS

Bathrooms: Constant and unexpected bathroom demands are the bane of every traveling parent, and traveling in Jordan requires some special consideration in this regard. While all hotels and tourist attractions have modern bathrooms, small local restaurants and downtown areas probably will not. Locals are generally willing to allow use of a bathroom if they have it, or offer directions to one, but it might be little more than a hole in the ground. Additionally, there are few rest stops along the road. Always have children try to go when there is a bathroom available, and travel with a roll of toilet paper. Bathroom stops are not unmanageable as long as everyone is prepared. Jordan Pass: Purchasing the Jordan Pass for $99-113 per person (depending on how many days of entry to Petra are included) is an excellent deal. It waives all visa entry fees (usually around $56 per person) and includes entry to over 40 attractions in Jordan, including Petra; in comparison, a single day entry to Petra alone costs $70. Passes must be purchased prior to arrival to Jordan and brought to all attractions. www.jordanpass.jo/Default.aspx SIM Card: Having a working phone in a foreign country can be invaluable. Local

SIM cards are readily available and well worth the $10 to $20 for their convenience. Zain is one of the most reliable companies. Its SIM cards can be purchased both at the airport upon arrival or at any Zain store in town. Cultural Considerations: Jordan is a Muslim state, but wardrobe rules are not enforced for men or women. Every sort of attire can be seen in tourist sites and resorts. Even outside of these areas, individuals are permitted to wear what they would like. However, it is important to take the feelings of the local culture into account; in more traditional areas of town, it is considerate for both men and women to avoid short shorts, short dresses, tank tops, crop tops, or anything too revealing. Unless entering a mosque, wearing a head covering is not required. OTHER SITES WORTH SEEING

Dana Biosphere, Jordan’s largest nature reserve, is great for camping. It is located two and a half hours south of Amman. Said to be the place where Moses first saw the Promised Land, Mt. Nebo is located 45 minutes southwest of Amman. Karak and Shobak Castle is the site of the remains of a Crusader fortresses lying between Petra and Amman. INFORMATION

Jordan Tourism Board in.visitjordan.com/Wheretogo/Amman/ HistoryCulture.aspx Medical Resources and Advice jo.usembassy.gov/u-s-citizen-services/ local-resources-of-u-s-citizens/doctors U.S. Citizen Services at U.S. Embassy in Amman jo.usembassy.gov/u-s-citizen-services Alerts and Emergency Notifications from the U.S. Embassy’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program step.state.gov/step

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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BubbleBum has earned the IIHS (Insurance Institute of Highway Safety) Best Bet Award 8 years in a row. The seats are the functional equivalent of any rigid car booster seat – they have undergone all of the same crash testing and materials testing, and exceed the requirements for the US FMVSS 213 regulation. Each seat is ﬁlled with memory foam and is crash-tested and approved even when it is not inﬂated.

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Navigation

Fiona Croucher

Travel Without Toys ņņ ņņ ņņ ņņ ņņ

Make friends with other children. Use furniture and spare blankets to build forts. Make “land art” with materials provided by nature. Make origami or paper planes with the used airline tickets. Use a washed take-out food container to collect snow or beach sand to make snowmen or sandcastles. ņņ Play dress up with one another’s clothes. ņņ Make necklaces from shells and string. ņņ Use recycled materials for crafts. ņņ Experiment with water and ice. ņņ Take photos around a chosen theme. The possibilities really are endless and so enjoyable to watch.

t home, kids can spend hours playing with LEGOs, dolls, trucks, and crafts, and it’s tempting to bring them all along when you are traveling. It isn’t necessary, however — kids will manage just fine (and perhaps even better) without all their toys from home.

WHY TRAVEL WITHOUT TOYS? The most obvious and practical reason to travel without toys is the amount of luggage space toys require. Many airlines charge a fee for each checked bag, so many families choose to travel with only carry-on luggage, leaving little room for toys. Taking a suitcase full of toys is just another item to pay for, carry around, and repack whenever it’s time to move on. Many families travel to broaden their horizons and do things outside their comfort zones. Bringing all of the children’s favorite toys decreases the chances of spontaneous play with newfound objects and can mask a child’s creativity. The more specific the toy, the less creativity is needed. For example, a toy sword is a toy sword, but a stick could be a sword, shovel, wand, oar, microphone, limbo bar, or horse to ride. Going on vacation or traveling is supposed to be a break for parents too, and no one wants to be cleaning up piles of blocks or Barbie clothes every evening. Leave that for home!

WHAT’S THE ALTERNATIVE? No one has to teach a child to play — it’s built in. It is amazing to watch children’s creativity come to life when they aren’t provided with traditional toys and instead:

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There are some supplies you can take to help aid in your child’s creativity and help stimulate outside-the-box play. Colored pencils or crayons are small, lightweight, and can be used practically anywhere such as on planes, in airports, or in restaurants while waiting for food. Coloring can also be calming when children need some afternoon downtime. There’s usually spare paper around — hotel notepads, old boarding passes, or car rental paperwork, and a coloring or activity book featuring your destination can make a great keepsake. Sleep aids like a special teddy or small blanket can be worth their weight in gold — traveling and sleeping in an unfamiliar place is no time to separate kids from their needed comfort items. Two or three Matchbox cars in a side pocket can be a welcome distraction. A special notepad can encourage older children to keep a travel journal, which can include writing, poems, drawings, photos, and ticket stubs. Bring a roll of colorful tape to secure collected items. A deck of cards is light and compact, and provides a great opportunity for learning about numbers, patterns, rules, turntaking, winning and losing — plus, it’s so much fun! By about four or five years old, children are able to understand simple card games and even beat the adults and older kids. Ideally, all toys should be able to fit in a small backpack a child can carry, freeing up valuable luggage space for necessities. If you are housesitting or staying with friends or relatives, chances are they will have toys available, and there’s nothing like someone else’s toys to keep a kid entertained. And if all else fails – hit the local playgrounds! Tip: Check out #landart and #landartforkids on Instagram for some inspiration.

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WHAT ARE SOME USEFUL THINGS TO TAKE?

Fiona Croucher

Kid’s Summer Bucket List (Tear Out) C

hallenge your kids to check off every item from our list this summer! These bucket list activities are all inexpensive or free, and you can do most of them either at home or on vacation, wherever you are in the world.

BUG JAR: MONKEY BUSINESS; DINOSAURS: XIXINXING; ICE CREAM: LIGHTFIELD STUDIOS; SPRINKLER: FAMVELDMAN; TREASURE MAP: MIGFOTO; SHELLS: XIXINXING; PHOTOGRAPHY: BORIS BULYCHEV; CAR WASH: JO ANN SNOVER (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

Swim at a new beach, lake, or creek Make friends with a new animal Catch a bug, draw it, then release it Build a fort in your living room Make a miniature fairy or dinosaur garden Go out for ice cream Put together a picnic, then go and eat it somewhere pretty Go for a night walk in the dark with your family Design a scavenger hunt with your siblings, cousins, or friends Put on your swimsuit and run under the sprinklers Check out a book from the library, then read your book under a tree Create a map of your backyard or street Make and classify a collection of seashells or rocks Take close-up photos of different plants Look at the night sky and research some of the star constellations you can see Do a random act of kindness Make sponge bombs, then have a water fight with them Have a family game or cards night Build an obstacle course Make a fruit salad for your family Draw a floor mural with sidewalk chalk Sleep outside in a tent Make a model volcano with baking soda and vinegar Discover a new local park Unplug (no screens for the whole day!) Write a letter to a friend or relative and mail it Wash your parents’ car with sponges and buckets Make friendships bracelets with your friends, then swap them Create and bury a time capsule

Skillset

FRIENDSHIP BRACELET: KHORZHEVSKA; BIRD HOUSE: IRINA SCHMIDT; PLANTING SEEDS: BUBUTU; YOGA: GRKI; STRAWBERRIES: VAMVELDMAN; PUZZLE: OGNIAN75; TREE: SYDA PRODUCTIONS; COLLAGE: TRINETUZUN (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

Bake cookies, then give them to someone as a gift Build a bird feeder and hang it in a tree Make cloud dough with 1 cup of hair conditioner and 2 cups of corn starch Create your own recipe for homemade popsicles Learn a new card game Plant some seeds or seedlings in your garden or a pot Make a ghost costume with an old sheet Learn all the lyrics to one of your favorite songs Call or email a friend that has moved to another town or city Make a pulley in a tree with a rope and a box Visit a thrift store and buy some new clothes Watch a classic movie your parents recommend Make a homemade pizza for dinner Stay in your pajamas all day Rehearse a dance, song, or a play, then perform it for your family Clean trash from a beach or other area Make homemade slime Read a book and write a book review Play charades Design a flag or crest that represents YOU Create a fancy mocktail with all the trimmings Learn to skip stones on a pond Print a favorite photo, then stick it on a sheet of paper and decorate around it Learn a few yoga poses Make a new friend Create a playlist or written list of your top 20 songs Collect some toys, clothes, or books you don’t want anymore and donate them Go to a farmers market and buy some fruit Rearrange the furniture in your room or redecorate Pick and eat some fruit straight from the tree or bush Make a boat, then try to float it on the water Clean out and organize a messy cupboard or drawer Have a relaxing spa day at home Start a summer holiday journal with photos, drawings, and writing Repurpose some old jeans by cutting them into shorts Complete a difficult jigsaw puzzle Make a menu and cook a three-course dinner for your family Learn the scientific classification of your favorite plants and animals Climb a tree to see what you can see from up there Make a collage by cutting up old magazines Write a list of things you can’t wait to do in the winter

Cultural Consideration

Laleh Zahedi

Head Coverings S

ince the earliest days of Islam in Iran, the majority of Iranian women have worn a hijab (head covering). Before the Islamic revolution of 1978, wearing a hijab was more of a personal choice. Unlike today, no laws requiring its observance were enforced; indeed, in the 1930s, Reza Shah wanted to modernize Iran and emulate Western practices, so he prohibited women from covering in public. As a result, many women, forced to choose between their religious beliefs and observance of the law, refused to leave their homes. Many view Muslim womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s practice of wearing a hijab as both a sign of and the result of male oppression, and some women in Iran have protested the compulsory dress code by removing their head coverings in public. Many others â&#x20AC;&#x201C; particularly the more religiously observant â&#x20AC;&#x201C; see head covering as an exercise in personal modesty required by Islam. Nearly all Iranians are Muslim, meaning they follow Islam; less than one percent belong to other religions such as Judaism

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PAGE 46-47 – JASMIN MERDAN; THIS PAGE – ANANALINE (BOTH STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

and Christianity. These other religions have their own houses of worship in the country, and their adherents are free to practice. However, Islam is the official religion of Iran, and many of the day-to-day laws of the country are based on its teachings. One of the fundamental requirements of Islam is that its practitioners – men, women, and even children – practice personal modesty. For women, Islamic tradition has required the wearing of a head covering; but for men, for example, wearing short pants in public is prohibited. This modesty also means that public displays of affection between men and women, such as hugging and kissing, are generally frowned upon, even for old married couples. The requirement to observe personal modesty applies only in public places. In one’s own home, things can be different. A woman is not required to wear a head scarf in her own home – or anywhere else, for that matter – unless there is an adult male present who is not her immediate relation (such as her husband, father, brother, or uncle) or someone who has close familial relationship (such as a husband’s son). Personal modesty in dress can be displayed in many ways and depends on a variety of factors, primarily ethnic background (i.e., Persian versus Arab). Some women wear head scarves that cover all of their hair, while others wear them far back on their heads, a less religiously-observant practice but still sufficient to prevent public rebuke. Others wear a mantou (a shirt-dress) or cover from head to toe with a loose black chador (which translates in English to “tent”). Although rare in Iran, occasionally women will wearing a niqab (full-body covering) that reveals only the wearer’s eyes. Decisions on how to observe the requirement of modesty are left to the individual and how strictly she would like to follow the requirement. Things have changed recently; nowadays in Iran, many women follow fashion by wearing hijabs in bright colors. Wearing mantous has become more common, while the use of chadors has declined. Female travelers in Iran are best advised to wear a hijab. This is not strictly enforced for visitors to the country, but any failure to make an effort to “cover” could invite a reminder from the authorities. Many visitors respectfully put the scarf lightly on their head, simply to show that they are abiding by the law. Considering the culture when traveling both shows respect to locals and invites opportunities for connection. Laleh, who is passionate about teaching, was born in Iran but has a foot in two continents: one in the forests around Mt. Hood, Oregon, and the other in modern day Persia, where she returns several times a year. When she’s not overseas, she works as a substitute teacher for the Oregon Trail School District. Laleh has lived in the United Arab Emirates and has traveled to Turkey, Cyprus, Saudi Arabia, Canada, and western Europe and has visited the Great Wall of China.

A hijab is a general term for head covering but is often used to refer to a head scarf that covers the head and neck

A chador is a shirt-dress that offers more coverage but still shows the wearer’s face

A niqab is a full body covering that reveals only the wearer’s eyes

Some Muslim women outside of Iran choose not to wear any headcovering Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

GO WILD

Astrid Vinje

Searching for Sloths in Costa Rica

he line outside the entrance of Manuel Antonio National Park in Costa Rica stretched over 1300 feet (400 m) along the road. Despite the early hour, hundreds of visitors stood in line waiting for the gates to open. The road leading to the park buzzed with activity: tour groups leading travelers, vendors selling souvenirs, and independent visitors coming to hike. My family and I waited with our guide for our turn to walk through the gates. That morning had been a mad rush to get our daughter and son, ages 8 and 5, out of bed and out the door of our hotel room. Despite being avid animal lovers, the kids are decidedly not early risers. Getting them up at that early hour was a challenge indeed. Now, as we waited at the gate, our anxiety and excitement welled as we wondered what animals we would see during our hike. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Will there be monkeys and sloths?,â&#x20AC;? my daughter asked excitedly.

48 | Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

“I’m sure there will be,” I answered. “I want to see a basilisk!,” my son added emphatically. He smiled as he said this, proud that already he knew so much about different types of lizards. The day before, we had pored over a pamphlet filled with information on the different animals that live in Costa Rica. The kids and I picked out a few from the list that we hoped to see at the park: blue jeans poison dart frogs, white-faced capuchin monkeys, scarlet macaws, toucans — and of course, sloths. Ecotourism is a big draw for visitors to Costa Rica; the World Bank estimates that it brings in around 2.96 million tourists each year. The country is famous for holding 5 percent of the world’s biodiversity, despite being no larger than the state of West Virginia. Manuel Antonio National Park alone contains over 200 species of animals.

By far, though, Costa Rica’s most well-known animal resident is the sloth. Famous for their exceptionally slow speed, sloths are somewhat of a mascot for Costa Rica. In a sense, they exemplify the country’s philosophy of pura vida, a laid-back attitude toward life. The Spanish word for sloth, perezoso, literally translates to lazy! Seeing these animals in their natural habitat was one of the reasons my family and I came to Manuel Antonio National Park. This wasn’t my first visit to the park. My husband and I visited ten years earlier on our honeymoon. We spent a day hiking through the park, spotting as many animals as we could. We even caught a glimpse of a sloth hanging high up in the trees above us, but we were too far away to get a close view of it. Even so, by the end of our honeymoon, we had fallen in love with the natural beauty of Costa Rica and knew we wanted to return someday. Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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more like sloths, where our most pressing dilemma is where to rest for the day! In reality, sloths do have a few worries of their own. Many sloths face habitat loss as deforestation by the logging industry impacts the trees these animals call home. Human encroachment and the development of buildings and cities near rainforests also threaten their habitat and safety. Their slow speed also makes sloths vulnerable to predators. After hiking for over four hours, we decided to call it a day. Our kids were exhausted, and even I was cranky and tired by the time we walked back through the gates and out of the park. Hiking certainly was not easy for us, as the heavy humidity of the rainforest and the uncomfortable heat of the afternoon sun made physical exertion more challenging. But now, weeks later, all I can remember are the highlights: the looks of excitement on our kids’ faces when they saw the animals through the telescopes, the questions about animals my kids would curiously ask of our guide, and the feeling of ease that came with spending time with our kids out in nature. Perhaps we all can learn a thing or two from the sloths, especially when it comes to slowing things down and taking our time to do what matters most. I know for me, I certainly won’t feel bad anymore about a lazy day. As I saw from the sloths, it’s all part and parcel to the pura vida life!

Tips for visiting Manuel Antonio National Park

or families, the best way to get to Manuel Antonio National Park from Costa Rica’s capital, San Jose, is by private car. Buses are more budget-friendly, but they take up to eight hours for the trip. Alternatively, shared shuttle buses serve routes between San Jose and Manuel Antonio National Park, but at $40-$55 USD per person can get expensive for a family. The drive between San Jose and Manuel Antonio National Park takes approximately four hours to drive; cars are readily available for rent for only a few dollars a day plus insurance. When visiting the park, arrive early to maximize your chances of gaining entrance into the park. The park is open from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. each day. Hiring a guide is worthwhile for families, as it practically ensures that they will see animals during the hike. For more sloth viewing within Costa Rica, visit the Sloth Sanctuary, a 320-acre nature preserve located on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica near the town of Cahuita. The sanctuary is a rescue center for orphaned, injured, and abandoned sloths. Sloths can also be seen on the Bogarin Trail, located near the town of La Fortuna in central Costa Rica.

PAGE 48-49 – DAMEDIAS; PAGE 51 – CAPUCHIN MONKEY: NIKKI; BOARDWALK: JUHKU; SLOTH: JANOSSYGERGELY (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM); KIDS READING SIGN: ASTRID VINJE

In the ten years since our first trip to Costa Rica, though, a lot has changed. Not only has the area around Manuel Antonio National Park been significantly impacted by tourism and development, but so have the procedures for visiting the park. On our first visit, we simply bought our tickets at the entrance gate and walked in. Today, in order to protect the park’s wildlife, rangers cap visitors to 600 people per day. People line up even before the park opens, as if waiting to see a concert or a show. One thing that has not changed is the popularity of sloths in the national park. These creatures still elicit “oohs” and “aahs” of amazement when park-goers spot them in the trees, and their slow movements still evoke a sense of calm. With the help of our guide, we saw 21 different species of animals during our hike. We walked the main trail of the park, a large boardwalk cutting through the forest. Our guide pointed out the animals through his telescope, and we relished seeing them up close through the lens. We came across sloths on three separate occasions. They lounged around in the branches, high up in the canopy. The sloths’ shaggy hair and slow movements make them almost impossible to see at first; they blend in so easily with the leaves. But with a watchful eye, they are visible, even without a telescope. Sloths are tree-dwelling mammals that live in the rainforests of Central and South America. Their slowness in movement is due to their extremely low metabolic rate. On average, sloths travel less than 50 yards per day. Primarily herbivores (two-toed sloths do eat meat on some occasions), sloths spend an average of 15 hours a day sleeping. The sloth’s digestive system takes several days to process a meal, which means it can survive on very little food. “Did you know sloths only come down to the ground once a week to relieve themselves?,” our guide asked. “Because they are so slow, they are safer high up in the trees. They rarely spend a lot of time on the ground.” The last sloths we spotted on our hike were a mother and her baby. The mother rested lazily on a tree branch while her baby hung on to her arms and chest. Our guide spotted her first, and encouraged everyone in our group to take a turn observing the sloths through the telescope. From a distance, sloths look like little more than shaggy lumps in the trees. Through a telescope, though, you can see the greenish-grey hairs that cover their bodies, and the subtle smiles that sit on their faces. They truly are adorable creatures! As I watched the mother sloth sitting in the trees with her baby, I pondered what life must be like for a sloth. How easy it must be to spend the day eating, sleeping, and hanging around. Do sloth mothers and fathers ever have worries like human mothers and fathers? Like most parents, I face the constant task of balancing work responsibilities and family time. Sometimes this balance is more successful than others. If only we were all

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

For over 35 years, Austin Adventures has been family-owned and operated. The Austin family knows family travel; they’ve lived it in destinations near and very, very far. When you book a family vacation with Austin Adventures, you start off right by not having to worry about any of the details. We take care of all the planning — the lodging, the meals, the snacks, the engaging activities, the educational opportunities, and the extra “WOW” moments that will make the adventure a lifelong memory for kids and adults alike.

SKILLSET

Picture Perfect Outdoor Adventure

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Capture the Moment

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Be Hike Ready

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

SKILLSET

Genny Arredondo

Pack for Car Camping amping trips are all about togetherness and connecting with friends and family. A campout with friends in college looks a lot different than a trip with children. Although kids often have their own unique requirements that can make camping more challenging, having kids doesn’t mean camping must be put on hold completely. The solution for making camping with kids easier? Car camping! Whether kids are young or old, car camping can make living outside as a family easier and more feasible. Like many adventures, planning ahead and packing a few creature comforts will make sleeping, eating, and playing together in the outdoors even more enjoyable. The specific items to pack for a car camping trip depend on many factors, such as the age and needs of the kids, campground amenities, and available car space. Below are some ideas for things to bring that will go a long way in ensuring both kids and adults are happy campers. Sleeping: A good night’s sleep is key to making sure everyone feels rested and has the energy to enjoy outdoor fun. For infants and toddlers, a travel crib or small cot and weather-appropriate sleep sack can help reach maximum sleeping comfort and safety. The rest of the family will appreciate a seasonallyappropriate sleeping bag and a sleeping pad or air mattress to keep warm and cozy at night. Going to sleep at the same time as younger children (or at least lying down with them until they are asleep) will help them settle down after an exciting day and feel safe in their new surroundings. Splurge: Since light can be a factor in how early kids go to sleep or wake up, consider purchasing a “blackout tent” to block the light of those long summer days. Tips: Place a small tarp just outside the tent as a shoe mat. This will minimize the amount of dirt that gets tracked inside the tent. Bring a portable play yard or travel crib for infants and toddlers. It not only gives young kids a safe place to sleep at night but can be used to safely contain them during the day. Pack extra flashlights, as they easily get lost in a tent. Kids may also want to use them to read, make shadow puppets, or have light saber fights!

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Eating: Cooking and eating are arguably some of the most satisfying activities while camping. Cooking methods depend on personal preference and style. Car camping affords the luxury of packing extra cooking supplies such cast iron cookware, a camping grill, or even a portable deluxe camp kitchen to make fromscratch favorites like chili and to start the day off right with a big breakfast complete with omelets, bacon, and toast. A percolator or pour-over coffee maker will help coffee lovers start the day off right. Tips: Bring lots of food. Outdoor activity not only makes people hungrier, but cooking outside often takes longer — so be sure to pack extra snacks to keep everyone happy while food is being prepped. Pack a cooler that’s insulated enough to keep your perishables cold for the length of your stay. Block ice and dry ice can stay frozen for up to a week! Pack a 5-gallon water jug, biodegradable soap, and a towel to create a makeshift wash area where kids and adults can clean up as needed. Amusement: The possibilities are endless when it comes to camping entertainment. While nature exploration or playing inside a tent can keep kids occupied for hours, it’s nice to have a few additional items such as games, outdoor sporting equipment, or bikes to multiply the options for fun. Tips: Unique and fun ideas for camping amusement include painting rock animals, creating a wildlife scavenger hunt, and using glow sticks for night time fun. While none of the above items are essential, they are tried and true supplies that can make living outside with kids more enjoyable and memorable. What does your family love to bring car camping? Post your favorite car camping hacks on the Everywhere Facebook page!

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Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Skillset

Cat Chiappa

Capture the Moment F

amily travel often begins with the anticipation of adventure and the promise of shared moments together. Hours of planning go into each vacation, and countless memories are made. At the end of your trip, no matter the length or location, what you have left are the stories and the photographs you

have created along the way. Due to great strides in technology, photographs have become an essential part of memory making that is accessible to nearly every traveling family — but it’s so easy to fire off shot after shot without slowing down to really think about the moment that you are looking to preserve.

Photographing Your Family There is nothing wrong with the occasional selfie, snapshot, or posed family picture, but what if you could sometimes pause and take a photo that was truly special? Imagine an image that really captures a moment in your travels, one that makes you smile every time you look at it. No matter what device you use to take photos, here are a few tricks that will help you take better pictures and relive those precious memories time and time again. 

Compose in Thirds There are many different ways to compose a shot, but one of the easiest and most effective uses one simple method called the “rule of thirds.” As you look through your viewfinder or at your screen, imagine the scene before you is split into three equal sections. Try to focus your subject off to the side in either the left or right section. This will provide balance to your image and draw the eye of the viewer deeper into the composition. 

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CAT CHIAPPA

Use “Golden Hour” Lighting Some of the most magical photos are taken during what is called the “golden hour,” the period of time right after sunrise or right before sunset. This is when the light is warmer and softer than the harsher light of a higher midday sun. Images taken during this time will give your photos a beautiful glow. Have your camera handy for any family adventures that happen first thing in the morning or just before sunset. 

Capture Unposed Moments No matter where you travel, there will always be a list of iconic, must-take photos, and these are the ones that are often more posed in order to get the shot. By all means, take these photos — but it is likely that your most memorable images will be the ones that are unplanned. Don’t be afraid to document all aspects of your trip, from the happy smiles to the tired tears and all of the little details in between. 

Make Magic in the Details When you are documenting your trip, remember that you are telling a story of your time together. Often the best parts of a story can be found in the smallest details. In addition to getting the bigger “must take” photos, try to remember the smaller moments too. Think about the way the sun hits your daughter’s hair on the beach, or the dimples in your son’s chubby hand as he reaches for a special treat. These seemingly mundane moments will often produce some of your most memorable shots. 

Play with Perspective Some moments happen quickly, captured with a single click of the shutter. Others linger slowly, inviting a new perspective. One of the best ways to create a photo that stands out is to take it from different angles and perspectives. Try taking an image from above or below your subject or play with different focal points. Do you want the whole picture in focus or just part of it? Don’t be afraid to experiment — you might just find that trying a new technique produces your best photos. 

Remember: Less is More While you may have the urge to constantly snap photos to ensure that you have a perfect record of your trip, don’t be afraid to put down the camera sometimes and really be in the moment. When you return home and you begin to review and edit your images, be strong in your resolve to only keep the ones that elicit the strongest emotional response. A well-curated record of 100 images that stir your soul will mean more than 1000 images containing multiple shots of the same thing.

Don’t Forget Anyone! Lastly, make sure that all members of your family are represented. Often, the role of documenting a trip falls on the shoulders of one family member. Make a point to pass the camera around to ensure that everyone is able to get in the frame. Most importantly, just remember to have fun and create memories to last a lifetime.

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Skillset

Be Hike Ready

Amanda Bird SIDE PLANKS WITH HIP ABDUCTION

lanning a hiking trip? After deciding what trails to tackle, don’t forget physical training, especially if your plans include hiking with a child in a carrier. Jason Hartman, strength and conditioning coach for a military special operations unit, stresses the importance of being physically prepared for a hike. “First and foremost, it’s important to train so you can prevent injuries,” Jason notes. “Secondly, the better shape you’re in, the less time you spend worrying about the physical demands of the hike. You can focus on taking in the scenery and enjoying the moment.” Jason recommends the following three exercises performed two times a week for four to six weeks before your hike: (1) side planks with hip abduction, (2) step-ups, and (3) walking rotational lunges.

SIDE PLANKS WITH HIP ABDUCTION

STEP-UPS Step-ups train the hip extensors (the glutes and hamstrings) and the quadriceps to build the strength necessary to contend with steep terrain. Jason says that while many avid hikers appreciate the need for cardiovascular endurance during a hike, having strong hips and legs can help mitigate injury risk caused by overuse and instability. “Lower body strength can improve running and walking economy, meaning the energy and effort required to move your body becomes relatively easier.” Find a box or step that is ½ to ¾ the height of your shin. Step up onto it first with one foot, then the other, then return to the ground. Perform three sets of 15-20 steps per leg. You can perform the step-up using body weight only, or while wearing a hiking pack or child carrier for added resistance.

WALKING ROTATIONAL LUNGES The walking rotational lunge helps build balance and core stability. The obliques and the hip and knee extensors are the

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STEP-UPS

WALKING ROTATIONAL LUNGES

prime muscles trained in this movement. Rotating the torso while lunging challenges balance to build a strong lower body and dynamic core stability. “When on the trail, a misstep can cause the weight of your pack to shift and you can lose balance,” Jason explains. “This exercise will develop the strength and balance necessary to avoid a stumble so you can remain safely on your feet.” Start with feet shoulder width apart. Step forward with your right leg, engaging your core while lowering your hips until both knees are bent at about a 90-degree angle. Twist your upper body to the right, keeping the core engaged. Reach across your right side with arms outstretched, and then bring them back to center. Step your right foot back, then repeat with the left. Perform three sets of 10-15 repetitions on each leg. This exercise can be executed with arms extended while holding a light medicine ball, weight plate, or light hiking pack for added resistance. To perform the lunge holding an object, hold it in front of you with your elbows bent about 90 degrees. The best way to enjoy a hiking trip is to be prepared, and that includes physical fitness. Being physically capable of taking on the trail, whether it’s while carrying a child or not, will ensure it’s a memorable experience. “The best sights are often the ones off the beaten path, and you need to be in better condition to get there,” Jason said. “Don’t let your fitness, or lack thereof, be a reason you can’t experience something.”

CHRISTINE CLO PHOTOGRAPHY

The side plank with hip abduction develops strong hip abductors, which can prevent the common lower leg injuries experienced by runners and hikers such as iliotibial band (commonly referred to as IT band) syndrome. This exercise also stabilizes the pelvis to keep the lower back healthy. To begin, start by lying on one side, feet together, propped up with one forearm directly below your lower shoulder. Contract your core muscles and raise your lower hip off of the floor, creating a straight line from head to foot. To add hip abduction, maintain the side plank position with your head and grounded foot in a straight line while lifting your top leg up and down. You can also place your bottom knee on the ground as a modification. Perform three sets of 10-15 repetitions on each side.

Denver

Grand Canyon National Park

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Nonstop daily Flagstaff (FLG) flights to/from: Phoenix (PHX), Denver (DEN) and Dallas (DFW).

Feature

Sue Eckels as told to Melanie Selvey

Grand Canyon Adventure 60 | Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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PAGES 60-61 – TOMASZ WOZNIAK; PAGE 63 – RIVER ACCESS: KARAGRUBIS; SITTING ON RAFT: KEVIN; BLUE RAFT: BROCREATIVE (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM). CLIFFS OVER RAFT & WAVE TRAIN: PAUL ECKELS; RAPIDS: DEREK TOWERY; PAGES 64-65 – TOMASZ WOZNIAK/STOCK.ADOBE.COM

a wilder ride on the left or right side of the raft, so we were awoke to the smell of smoke from the campfire and the aroma advised to pick our preference and hang on tightly. As the rapids of freshly brewed coffee as the sounds of birds welcomed approached, we could hear the roaring waters as we quickly the day. I pulled my sleeping bag up to my chin against the cool donned our rain gear. The first time the icy chill of 46°F (8°C) morning air and glanced around at the colorful canyon walls and water hit us, rain gear notwithstanding, it took our breath away. the haze hovering over the river. It was a bittersweet day, the last Squeals of laughter brought on by the splashing water and the of a week-long float down the Grand Canyon. thrill of the up-and-down motion of the raft were heard from the When we boarded our bus in Las Vegas a week ago for the grandkids and adults alike. Once through the rapids, the serenity drive to where we’d launch our boats onto the river, we were of the river took over and allowed for never-ending views of the filled with nervous excitement at the thought of spending the desert landscape and rock formations and for quiet reflection. week on the river, traveling 277 miles (446 km) in the close Lunchtime was always an event that included make-yourquarters of two rafts with 19 strangers and our family of seven own deli sandwiches, chips, cookies, and generous quantities (my husband and me, 71 and 67 years respectively, plus our son of cold soft drinks and water. Our lunch stops featured places to and his family). We had reserved this trip a year in advance and explore a multitude of side canyons, a natural amphitheater that looked forward to the promise of adventures shared with our could hold 50,000 people, sparkling waterfalls with refreshing three grandkids, ages 12, 14, and 16. With a knee that needed pools underneath, ancient Indian ruins, or waterslides carved replacement in the not too distant future, I hoped I would be by water into the rocks. One of the trip’s highlights was our stop able to participate in all the activities and not be a hindrance or at the confluence of the Colorado River and Little Colorado spoil the fun of the others. River. Despite its name, the Little Colorado River is one My first thought upon seeing the gear was that our of the largest tributaries of the Grand Canyon. Its rafts were huge! They each held 13 people plus all piercing bright blue water is caused by a high our food, drinks, bedding, and supplies for the Every day of our trip alkaline content of dissolved travertine and week (all provided by our outfitter), including limestone in the water that reflects back was another adventure a dry bag for our clothes and a waterproof the magical turquoise color. It was the box to store our cameras, sunscreen, and with each view more beautiful perfect place to cool off by creating a fun other items we wanted to be able to access than the last; we never tired of train with the grandkids, holding their feet quickly while in the raft. Also loaded on the underneath our arms to float through the raft was the all-important “honey pot,” the the anticipation of what was rapids. clever name for the bucket we would use as around the next bend. After relaxing under the cottonwood trees our toilet for the next seven days. After final that lined the banks, we loaded up our rafts and instructions from our experienced guides, we drifted quietly along while our guides told us about were fitted for life jackets, climbed aboard the raft, the history and geology of the river. Just as the heat started and strategically chose our seats. The front of the raft was to become oppressive, the spray from a roller coaster rapid reserved for the daredevils who liked to bounce around and get refreshed and rejuvenated us. Our days consisted of alternating wet, the middle was raised for great views, and the back was for rounds of calm waters, heart-stopping rapids, and discovering those wanting a quieter ride. hidden treasures on our hikes ashore. While I was able to take We pushed into the river just a few miles below the Glen on some of the trails with my bad knee, I couldn’t climb up the Canyon Dam. The water was crystal clear; in the middle of June, steep rocks that rimmed the canyon; however, watching our the rainy season had not yet started washing desert dirt into the grandkids climbing like mountain goats was enough fun that I river. The vivid colors and rock layers of the mile-high canyon didn’t feel deprived. walls stretched upward to the sky. Wildflowers and cacti dotted Our campsite was always a sandy patch alongside the river. the riverbank in unending varieties. We made a game with the We formed a long bucket brigade to unload all the gear from grandkids to see who could first spot wildlife such as mule deer, our rafts, then set up our beds and the kitchen and placed the foxes, great blue herons, and golden eagles. honey pot safely behind a large bush. While dinner was being Our first rapids were off in the distance. Each rapid is rated by prepared, there was time to play a game of cards or, for those difficulty; rather than using the traditional scale of Class I to Class brave enough to submerge in the bone-chilling 50°F (10°C) VI, rapids on the Colorado River are rated on a scale up to Class water, to take a bath. In order to preserve the fragile ecosystem 10, with Class 10 rapids presenting obstacles the size of a house. of the side streams, all bathing took place directly in the main Our guide prepared us in advance by describing how rough the channel of the river. It was quite daunting to dunk beneath the waters could get. Certain rapids were more difficult and provided

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

frigid water; after a quick suds with biodegradable soap and a rinse, I was ready to hang my wet swimsuit on the bushes and pull on clean, dry clothes. Nights can get quite chilly in the canyon, and my sweatshirt was a welcome addition. Many people equate camping with hotdogs, but we were treated to gourmet dinners. Everyone pitched in to help with the preparation of mouth-watering steaks, chicken, and salmon, an assortment of fresh fruits, vegetables and salads, and warm dutch oven desserts. Cleanliness was stressed at all times, and a foot pump faucet was provided for handwashing and tubs for washing our dishes. No paper towels, plastic cups, or cutlery were allowed, minimizing the amount of trash generated. Every single piece of trash, no matter how tiny, had to be packed up and taken with us on the raft when we left the campsite. As the sun went down, we gathered around the campfire and our guides told stories about their past adventures, read books about the great early explorers of the Grand Canyon, and discussed our agenda for the next day. No television or cell phones distracted us, and an early bedtime allowed for viewing the night sky as we looked for shooting stars and named the constellations under the incredibly bright full moon. Every day of our trip was another adventure with each view more beautiful than the last; we never tired of the anticipation of what was around the next bend. As the Hoover Dam came into view on our last day, we knew our lazy days on the river had come to an end, but I looked forward to washing off a week’s worth of sand and dirt in a long hot shower and using real bathroom facilities. We had purchased a waterproof map and guide to record our notes of the entire journey, locations of rapids, fun facts, sites of interest, and campsites, and it has been an invaluable tool to jog my memories of this once-in-a-lifetime experience. The multitude of photographs we took didn’t come close to capturing the beauty and awe-inspiring vistas we saw, but I cherish each picture as I look back and remember my family’s experiences: a white water thrill ride, sharing a sweet story, or laughing over a joke told without interruptions of technology. Nothing can top the memories of watching our grandkids’ eyes light up as they explored a place that felt magical, remote, and created just for our family to discover. Sue loves to travel with her family. She's explored over 20 different countries with her husband of 61 years, adult children, grandkids, and great-grandkids. Her home in Missouri is always full of family and friends, and she can usually be found in the kitchen whipping up a delicious meal or one of her famous pies.

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Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Feature

Darcy Tuscano

French Camp â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Language 66 | Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Immersion in the French Alps Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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PAGES 66-67 – NITO; PAGE 69 – SUMMER CAMP: TANDAV; HIKE: ANRYMOS; CLASS: FIORE56; CAFE: ABASLER; PAGE 70 – N.SAVRANSKA; PAGE 71 – NEW AFRICA (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

I convinced them that their afternoons would be spent playing n February, when the cold wind was still blowing and the games, creating art projects, and immersing themselves in temperatures plunged every night as we huddled under thick outdoor activities like hiking and swimming. blankets in our unheated home, my children, with their icy feet Their weeks spent in a gorgeous mountain chalet nestled and obvious dreams of warmer days would ask, “what are we in the greenery of the French Alps would certainly be a far cry doing for summer vacation?” from my memories of summer church camp, complete with For the past five years, we’ve had a summer tradition of musty wooden huts and a filthy shower. By contrast, the modern packing up the car and leaving the day after school is out. summer camp is an increasingly refined experience — it’s an Wherever we are, we always find ourselves driving north. $18 billion industry with tution rising every year. The average South is never an option, due to our geography. When we cost for a week-long, accredited day camp is over $300 USD; the lived in Florida, we drove to New York; now that we live in overnight options average nearly $800 USD per week, and some southern Spain, we once again head north. With friends spread summer-long sleep-away camps now cost more than $10,000 throughout Europe, summertime becomes an epic journey to USD. It’s even possible to hire a summer camp consultant cram in as many visits as possible. While I might have found my who will research and plan your child’s entire summer camp “home” in Spain, France is the place that first stole my heart. experience — including packing for it. Fifteen million children When I was 22 with only a rudimentary grasp of the French across America and Europe now attend camp as part of their language, I bought a one-way ticket to Paris with no job, no summer vacation. That’s a long way from the humble origins friends, and nowhere to live. Once I became a mother, I yearned of summer camp, which began in the early 20th century when for my children to fluently speak the language I worked so hard social services organizations sought out places in nature for to master. child factory workers to escape the cities and breathe fresh air — “Are we going to France again?” “What about Switzerland?” possibly for the first time. “Will we see our friends?” “I want to go camping.” “Can we pick Today, the American Camp raspberries and hike with the cows Association (ACA) estimates that this summer?” The requests kept Research has shown that children around 8,000 of the U.S.’s 12,000 coming and as the days gradually who start learning a second summer camps are run by nonprofit became warmer, I hatched an epic groups or religious organizations, plan. language at an early age are better with the remaining 4,000 run by This summer they would go and faster problem solvers, tend private, for-profit companies. If to day camp for French language to be more creative, have greater you’re looking for a camp in the immersion. U.S., it’s a fairly straightforward My kids were skeptical of the mental flexibility, and are better search through the ACA’s website; entire idea. with multi-tasking. however, if you’re searching for I have huge summer vacation a camp experience abroad, you’ll goals; it’s true. And perhaps there’s need to research country by country. also a teeny, tiny bit of tiger-mom in me, but my wife backed me In the months leading up to summer vacation, my boys — who up, regaling them with her own memories of summer camp: “It may or may not have been bribed with chocolate — prepared for was like being at recess with all your friends playing the best camp by studying French on various online learning apps. They games, but all day long. Who wouldn’t want to do that?” were definitely learning a lot of grammar and vocabulary using In my sons’ eyes, summer camp was supposed to be full of these online sources, but I hoped attending camp and spending fun, not mornings spent sitting in a classroom doing lessons. their days in an immersive environment would get them actually The idea of language immersion — a fairly new contestant in speaking French. the summer camp lineup — was one I wanted to explore, as my The bribery worked. The first day of “school” was a smashing kids soon would be starting to formally study French at their success with the kids, at least in terms of pure entertainment. elementary school. Despite spending a month every summer in Soaking wet, they dashed towards us with huge smiles, France and having many bilingual, French-speaking friends, my chattering about the rain storm that drenched them during 8-year-old twins hadn’t picked up on the language through this the afternoon hike. “But our teacher showed us these giant causal method. We needed to kick it up a notch. After promising leaves that we could use like an umbrella! And we made flower to meet their demands for daily Orangina soda and pain au rubbings in art! There’s a foosball table for breaks!” chocolat (chocolate croissants), they started to come around to thinking that it wouldn’t be completely awful, especially since

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

I asked them if they had learned the French word for “rain” or sweets offered!), the overall experience was a success. The boys “leaf ” or “umbrella” or “flower”? certainly weren’t conversational after only two weeks, but they Silence. definitely had more confidence and a much better grasp than “Do you remember any of the French words you learned before. today?,” I asked. Best of all — nearly a year later, they still play the French Silence again, followed by giggles. “Bonjour. Ummm, au board game they made at camp and are already asking it they can revoir?,” they replied. return next summer. Vive la France! So maybe they weren’t learning as much French as my inner tiger-mom had hoped. They Alpine French School in admitted that aside from morning Morzine, France promises fun “yet The primary purpose of today’s French lessons, their breaks, lunch, educational lessons, including games, and afternoon activities were spent songs and plenty of interactive group summer camp is athletic, mostly conversing in English, the exercises with classes taught by artistic, cultural, or educational common language of nearly all the young, dynamic teachers who know campers. But every evening, cheeks how to keep summer camp learning development. Camp provides an flushed from hours spent in the entertaining and lively.” The school opportunity for children to learn summer sun, they ran to show us offers day camp for ages 6-9 and sleep their folders for the day, describe away camp for ages 10-18, from early new skills in a safe and nurturing the afternoon mountain hike, and July through late August. French environment. practice all the new French words language classes are offered in the they remembered. They were mornings, followed by lunch and having a blast, and I have to admit — having the kids in camp outdoor activities in the afternoons. The school even offers an all day was a bit like being on an adult summer vacation, except hour of (optional) private one-on-one French lessons after lunch there was a hard stop every afternoon at 5 p.m. as we sprung back and afternoon adult French classes for the parents. into parenting action. Telephone: +33 (0) 4 50 79 08 38 No camp will be perfect, and while we were disappointed Email: info@alpinefrenchschool.com by the number of screens and video games played by campers Website: alpinefrenchschool.com during break times as well as the low quality of the food (so many

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Ten Questions to Ask When Researching a Summer Camp

he search for a perfect summer camp is daunting and can be time consuming. By conducting thorough research and asking the right questions, you can quickly navigate the system and send your child for a fabulous memory-making experience. 1. Is the camp accredited? This is especially important for parents considering overnight camps. To earn accreditation, a camp must comply with up to 300 industry standards for health, safety, and program quality. In the U.S., camps are accredited by the American Camp Association (ACA), but nearly every country has a foreign equivalent. Every three years, the ACA visits the camp to verify compliance. However, many day camps do not go through the same accreditation process. 2. How many years has the camp been operating? What is its philosophy? New camps pop up every year, but well-established camps are good indicators of a business run right. Think carefully about mission statements and decide if they fit your family values and the temperment of your child. The camp’s rules should be in line with your parenting practices. If a screen-free, unplugged camp experience is important to you, confirm the camp’s policies meet your vision. 3. What is the staff to camper ratio? A lower number of campers per counselor/staff member provides a greater amount of supervision and instructions per camper. The ratio should be lower for camps with younger children, but it’s something to consider for any camp. If the camp’s numbers are not transparent, ask a lot of questions. Overnight camps should have: • One staffer for every six campers ages 6 to 8 • One staffer for every eight campers ages 9 to 14 • One staffer for every 10 campers ages 15 to 18 Day camps should have: • One staffer for every eight campers ages 6 to 8 • One staffer for every 10 campers ages 9 to 14 • One staffer for every 12 campers ages 15 to 18 4. What is the emergency procedure? Are there medical staff onsite? For campers who have allergies or take regular medication, this question will be more important. It becomes even more critical for overnight camps, as kids are away from home and

their regular medical routines. Be sure you know how your doctor can contact the camp’s medical staff if needed. 5. What type of training do staff members receive? Verify that counselors are trained and certified for all activities, especially those with a greater degree of risk like swimming, white water rafting, canyoneering, and hiking. Also confirm that the camp performs background checks on all staff members. 6. What is the average age of the camp counselors? The ACA recommends that at least 80 percent of counselors for a program should be 18 or older. Many camps hire high school and college students as counselors, and some hire “junior” counselors who are former campers training to be counselors. Any junior staff should be at least two years older than the campers he or she is supervising. 7. How much of the staff is returning from last year? If the rate of returning staffers is under 50 percent, you should ask why; it could be an indication of poor management. 8. Are there any activities that require an additional fee? Check upfront if there is an extra cost for transportation, off-site activities, or lunch. This will impact the total price of the camp and its affordability — and you don’t want to be surprised with unexpected fees after reserving your child’s place in camp. 9. What is the refund policy in case of a scheduling conflict or injury that prevents attendance or camp completion? The most popular camps fill up fast. However, signing up for summer camp during winter break leaves quite a bit to chance. It’s good to know whether you have options in case your summer plans change course. 10. Is there a handbook or informational sheet to review before signing up that documents the price, dates, and deadlines for registration? Asking questions in a phone conversation is good, but having written documentation is better in case miscommunications arise. And don’t be shy to ask for more information as you evaluate other programs. Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Feature

Scott Gilbertson

Big Blue Bus

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Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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heads as children, the happier we are as adults. We feel it in our bones, that peace that comes from being outdoors. We could have moved to the country. We considered it — and may yet — but instead, we decided to buy an RV and hit the road to see the United States. And now, having lived this way for over two years, I can say that (for our family at least) the studies and the things we feel in our bones are all absolutely true. The best part of the way we live is waking up in the morning and stepping outside. We live outside. We cook outside, eat outside, learn outside, and play outside. Only the weather drives us inside — and even then, only once we’ve had enough. Before we made the leap to life on the road, it was all untested intuition. We knew we wanted to homeschool our three kids, which was an easy choice since my wife is a teacher. As a freelance writer and programmer, I’ve long worked from home. Those two things combined gave us a huge head start on our way to life on the road. Our main hesitation was our desire for the children to still have a place they could call their own. We didn’t want to travel; we wanted to take our home on the road.

ALL PHOTOS PAGES 72–78: SCOTT GILBERTSON

verything smells like grapefruit. Out of the corner of my eye I can see the Colorado sunshine — but under here, it’s dark and cramped, and it smells like grapefruit. The smell is transmission fluid, a slick, translucent red lubricant with an unpleasantly sweet citrus odor. I’ve been sticking my hands in it for months, over 4,000 miles now, chasing a leak that won’t stop. A leak that causes the engine to overheat sometimes, leaving me on my back in the grass and gravel at the side of the road halfway up Dallas Divide, outside of Ridgway, Colorado. There’s blood on my knuckles, transmission fluid on my forehead and cheek. I’m half on the ground, half off it, my torso twisted up into the engine, my face inches from an extremely hot radiator, wondering (and not for the first time) — what in the world am I doing? It started three years earlier. My wife had just given birth to our third child and we were feeling dissatisfied with life in the American suburbs. We wanted to spend more time outdoors, more time together as a family. Studies show that time outside makes for happier, healthier people. The more we listen to the wind in the trees and feel the sun on our faces and the rain on our

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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freezer. Sometimes that’s been a pain; Texas in June at 115°F The logical thing to do was buy an RV. However, modern RV (46°C) and 99 percent humidity will melt your icebox in a hurry. design leaves much to be desired. Most RVs struck us as generic That’s been a big lesson of the road though — we need very beige boxes, not unlike the suburban housing we wanted to leave little to be happy. behind. Worse, the construction is often flimsy. Stepping outside the traditional framework of today’s No; we wanted an RV that would make us smile when we culture means re-evaluating things, especially that cornerstone saw it, made of actual steel, and preferably didn’t cost a fortune. of modern life: comfort. For us, comfort is freedom and That’s a tough combination to come across. We were ready to independence. Comfort means having sweat glands and give up on the idea when we discovered the Dodge Travco. metabolic tolerance to deal with heat and cold rather than To call it an RV is to say a Stradivarius is a violin. The Travco relying on air conditioning and central heat. is not an RV; it’s a 27-foot steel and fiberglass container full of Some possessions make life easier, on the road and off, but magic and joy. I have no idea what gives it its appeal. I’ve owned more do not. More things simply means more that can break it for four years now, lived in it for over two, and still can’t put my down and more time spent sorting, fixing, or replacing them. A finger on it. Some objects transcend themselves. The Travco has simpler life can lead to a lot less worry. that thing no one can put a finger on, but everyone feels it. That doesn’t mean there’s no reason to worry. Like anyone My wife was not 100 percent sold on the idea of living on the with solar panels, we worry about hail and get skittish around road until she saw the Travco. Her first impression combined with storms, but often that works out in our favor. One afternoon, a trial trip to Florida added up to an afternoon where, over a couple heading out of Colorado and bound for Canyonlands National beers in the sweltering Florida sun, we agreed: let’s do this. Park in Utah, we watched as some gentle Two days later we bought a 1969 tufts of cumulus cloud to the south built Travco, and a few weeks later, I went to into something ominously dark, turning get it. I fired it up, pointed it downhill, day to night. The distant mountains in and we were on our way. The first time I To call it an RV is to say a which we were hoping to make camp stopped, at a rest area on I-85, a man was Stradivarius is a violin. The were swallowed into the darkness and we up at the driver’s window asking if he watched as lightning snapped out in front could take a picture before I’d even taken Travco is not an RV; it’s a 27-foot of the storm. off my seatbelt. “What is this thing?,” he steel and fiberglass container We stopped and consulted the map. asked excitedly. “It’s the coolest thing I’ve To the northeast, there was a small bit of ever seen.” This would happen hundreds full of magic and joy. state land labeled with a campground icon. of times more over the years. Eventually, I We decided to give it shot; heading for realized the name doesn’t matter; it simply the unknown beat driving through a big exists and people want to acknowledge it. storm any day. We cut off the highway and I managed to get it the 200 miles back followed an increasingly narrow dirt road — always a good sign if home, despite having no real idea the condition of the engine or we’re looking for secluded spots — and ended up with a campsite brakes. Immediately, I started ripping out the insides, re-wiring, all to ourselves, a canyon wall to one side and a river to the other. re-plumbing, re-paneling, and re-covering things to turn it into We unfurled the awning of the Big Blue Bus and let the kids something livable for a family of five. The kids took to calling it take off exploring. Instead of driving headlong into who knows the “Big Blue Bus,” a name that has stuck with us ever since. what, we spent the afternoon playing in the river, watching the The Big Blue Bus is small for an RV by today’s standards, but thunderheads roll by far downstream. That evening, we found it’s big enough to sleep six and, after two years of living in it, we bobcat tracks and what may have been mountain lion prints. know it’s all we need. The next day, we met two women foraging for herbs along the It took me nearly two years to fully restore the bus, and river. They told us about a canyon to the east that only locals ever even with all that work, we left long before everything was visit, full of petroglyphs and ancient ruins. That became our next done. We sold our house and moved into the bus before we had destination. In fact, over the next two weeks, we explored leads working plumbing or propane. It wasn’t until four months into that all came about because we turned off the main road to avoid our trip that I finally got around to installing a water tank. Two a storm. months after that, we got our solar system working. We were Perhaps I’ve made it sound like we know what we’re doing. more interested in getting on the road than having everything It’s not true; we have no clue. We make it up as we go along, perfect. Even today, after two years on the road, I’ve yet to install stumbling and following our noses, as it were. We let the kids a refrigerator. Instead, we’ve made do with an ice box and small Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

decide where we go. We spent a whole summer visiting the water from inside, and sat down on the highway guardrail. To region in which Louise Erdrich’s The Birchbark House takes the east, the whole of the Cimarron Range spread out before us, place, for no other reason than my the southern Rockies painted in green, daughters and I love the book. yellow, gray, and white. It was September; Stepping outside the traditional Then there’s that grapefruit smell. the days were growing shorter and it was The bus does break down sometimes. We time for us to head south. framework of today’s culture spend days at the side of the road, and the I watched as the sun began to soften means re-evaluating things, kids have learn to roll with it. They play toward evening. Chimney Rock slowly especially that cornerstone games at the table while Daddy mutters turned to amber as Precipice Peak behind of modern life: comfort. For under the bus and Mommy searches it reddened, and I remembered why we YouTube for videos on engine repair. We do this, why I don’t mind stopping at the us, comfort is freedom and don’t know what we’re doing, but we love side of the road to fix something: we have independence. doing it. no destination, as we’re already here. That particular day, I wrapped a Eventually, I was able to fire the bus back combination of duct tape and exhaust tape around a hose to up and turn around. We limped back to Ridgway where I finally stop the leak. I rolled out from under the bus, grabbed some replaced all the transmission lines. We’ve never had a leak since.

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Alpine French SUMMER CAMPS

FRENCH DAY CAMPS, FAMILY CAMPS & COURSES • French Intensive Classes • Monday – Friday 9h - 12h30 • Optional afternoon activities

• Option of lunch on site for children • A fun way for children, teenagers & parents to improve their French and gain confidence!

Choose Your Own Adventure

Cat Chiappa

Unplug in Yosemite National Park

estled deep in the Sierra Nevada mountains of California lies Yosemite National Park, one of the most beautiful landmarks in the United States. Here, you can find thundering waterfalls, towering sequoias, and majestic views as far as the eye can see. This is the perfect weekend getaway for families of all ages, providing something for everyone year round. As you drive along the winding road into Yosemite, the trees get taller, the air more crisp, and the stunning scenery unfolds in a kaleidoscope of color. Established as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984, this crown jewel of California spans over 747,000 acres (3 km2). Most visitors to the park spend the majority of their time in the Yosemite Valley, which is a great home base for your visit. Accommodations range from basic camping sites to rustic canvas tent cabins in Half Dome Village and even upscale lodging at The Majestic Yosemite Hotel. TAKE A HIKE There are many ways to explore the park but one of the best is to pull on your hiking boots and take to the trails. There are several options to satisfy all visitors to the park, from the novice hiker to the more intrepid expert. If you have young children, consider trying the Mirror Lake Trail. Most of the year, its

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name can be deceiving; it is often dry, turning the lake into Mirror Meadow instead. However, by visiting in spring or early summer, you may be rewarded for your efforts with the sight of the serene cliffside surroundings reflected on the surface of the water. This hike can be a two-mile round trip paved loop and is ideal for strollers, or, if you want to let the little ones roam and climb, take the longer five-mile loop through the forest. Along the way, try creating a nature-based scavenger hunt for your kids by providing them with challenges like finding objects in all the colors of the rainbow or seeing how many plants or animals they can name. If you have older, more sure-footed children and are looking for more of a challenge, consider a visit to nature’s “giant staircase” and climb the trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls, which offer impressive scenery year round. Here, you’ll get close to two iconic waterfalls that will soak you in springtime when the water levels are at their peak. To reach Vernal Fall, follow the Mist Trail, which includes a steep granite stairway of over 600 steps. As you make your way to the top of this 317 foot (97 m) waterfall, you may even get lucky and spy a rainbow in the tumbling spray. Upon reaching the top, you have the option of heading back down the mountain or continuing on the trail to Nevada Fall. Along the way, you will pass the striking Emerald Pool and Silver Apron; you might be tempted to swim, but don’t — it’s very dangerous due to an extremely strong current (and illegal as well). As you continue along crisscrossing switchbacks up into the trees, you will at last find yourself on a footbridge over the Merced River above the 594 foot (181 m) thundering waterfall. The route up and down this trail is steep and can often be slippery, but the effort and the photos will be worth your time. CLIMB TO THE TOP Looking for a more tactile and adrenaline-filled adventure? Consider climbing some of Yosemite’s iconic rock formations. Both world-class climbers and novices are drawn to the aweinspiring monoliths the park has to offer. While you may not be able to tackle the famous El Capitan or Half Dome with your family, you can still have fun learning the ropes and exploring nature in a unique way. The Yosemite Mountaineering School and Guide Service can be found at Half Dome Village in the middle of the Yosemite Valley or farther afield in Tuolumne Meadows. This school is a place for climbers with all levels of experience to either learn the basics or deepen their existing knowledge and skills. Small classes are offered daily at 8:30 a.m. from mid-April to October for ages 12 and up, or for kids 10–11 with a supervising adult. These learning adventures are 7 ½ hours long and are geared toward a variety of skill levels. Children younger than 10 can participate in a private lesson with an adult. Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

GAZE AT THE STARS After a long day of hiking or rock climbing, you might be tempted to go straight to bed — but if you are able to stay up a little later, you can experience the forest after dark. For $10 a person, you and your family can join one of the park’s Interpretive Naturalists on a Night Prowl along tranquil, unpaved trails under a blanket of stars. You will learn about nocturnal animals and Yosemite folklore and will experience the calm serenity that can only be found amongst the trees once the sun goes down. If your gaze keeps wandering toward the heavens, consider a stargazing tour. On Sundays through Thursdays from June– September, you can take a bus to Glacier Point, one of the best stargazing locations in California. This is a unique opportunity to view the stars from a location devoid of light pollution, which makes them shine more brightly and stand out against the black canvas of night in a way few have the opportunity to see. This four-hour trip is $64 for adults and $55 for children ages 5–12.

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MASTER TIPS FOR A FUN AND SAFE VISIT Make sure any food you bring remains locked in a bear safe box or in your hotel room overnight. Yosemite is home to many animals, including bears, so leaving food in your car or outside can lead to unsafe conditions for both humans and animals (as well as hefty fines!). Please do not feed the animals. Wear layers. Down in the Valley, temperatures may be warmer than higher up on the mountain trails. Better to take layers off than not have enough! Drink water. Participating in outdoor activities can easily cause dehydration. Top off your refillable water bottles in Yosemite Village and carry them with you, and don’t drink water from streams or lakes. Carry snacks. The combination of fresh air and active hiking may cause your stomach to rumble, so make sure you have food to eat along the way. Just dispose of all garbage in trash cans! Bring a flashlight or headlamp. When the sun sets, it gets dark quickly. You’ll want to move around safely, whether in camp or on the trail. Internet service is sporadic, so take the opportunity to truly unplug and get away from it all. Book ahead. Yosemite National Park is a popular destination, and lodging and activities can book quickly. Avoid disappointment by planning ahead. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/yose/ planyourvisit/interp.htm.

ALL PHOTOS PAGES 80–82: CAT CHIAPPA

Visitors who are not keen on trying rock climbing themselves can still get in on the action by bringing a telescope, binoculars, or powerful zoom lens to view the more expert climbers as they scale the magnificent rock. Grab a delicious picnic lunch at Degnan’s Deli and head on over to El Capitan Meadow to watch the impossibly tiny climbers make their ascent up the 3,953 foot (1,095 m) rock face.

Grant Selvey

Bon Appetit

Hunting Your Own Dinner

GRANT SELVEY

oom! The echo of the shotgun blast could be heard for miles in the stillness of the season’s last snowstorm. A trio of hunters (an adult guide and two first-time turkey hunters) were fortunate enough to experience Missouri’s spring turkey season at its finest. “Running and gunning” is the slang term for the stalk they just executed on this wily old bird: a shot taken during the chase, rather than from a blind or other stationary position. (Not an easy task for a solo seasoned hunter, let alone an army of clumsy kiddos.) The excitement after the shot was almost unbearable! There were shouts of glee, tears of joy, prayers of thanks, and (of course) a million pictures from every angle imaginable. Kids involved in hunts like this are blessed with opportunities many adults only dream of experiencing — weekend hunting and fishing trips on some of the finest whitetail properties or bass lakes in this country, or attending a week-long summer camp in pursuit of trophy-class rams, hogs, trout, saltwater fish, and more. What better way to follow a successful hunt than to prepare a meal fit for a king with the freshest ingredients possible: organic, free range, and hormone-free? Plus, cooking and eating outside tends to make everything taste better. Some people complain about the “gamey” taste of wild meat, but that’s not an issue if the meat is properly processed and cooked. The satisfaction a young boy or girl gets from eating a meal made from their harvested animal is unparalleled. Processing and cooking wild game is a skill as important as the hunt itself. Field care is key; it’s all about timing and cleanliness. Learning to hunt also requires learning how to recover the animal, rinse and isolate the meat from contaminants, and keep it cool; how to prepare the meat, including aging it prior to butchering, soaking it in water,

vacuum seal or paper wrap; choose between options for cuts; and prepare different finished products like sausage and jerky. Kids should be involved in every part of the process, making it more enjoyable and memorable for all involved. The time kids spend in the woods (and then the kitchen) will be memories that last a lifetime. As the old saying goes, “if you take your kids hunting, you won’t have to go hunting for your kids.” If you want to get your kids outdoors to teach them about their hunting and fishing heritage and let them see that life is not just what they see on TV or in video games, you can find an outfitter or camp to guide your child through the experience in a wholesome and fun environment while training them in the all-important safety aspects of responsible hunting. Then you can experiment together with new recipes or modify your favorites by replacing domesticated meat (beef, pork, or chicken) with wild game meat (venison, wild hog, or turkey). Your kids will thank you and be changed for the better. Hunting camps for kids vary widely. Trinity Oaks’ youth hunting and fishing events take place at its 2,000-acre ranch outside of San Antonio, Texas, home to duck, quail, hogs, javelinas, whitetails, and other game. Faith-based experiences are also available; Cross Trail Outfitters, a youth hunting and fishing club with summer sessions in different states, offers hands-on field instruction through its weekend hunts for groups of up to eight kids and week-long camps that can accommodate up to 12 kids. There is always one adult for every two children to ensure safety. A single week of camp can teach kids skills that will last forever.

Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Bon Appetit

Laleh Zahedi

alam polo (cabbage rice) originated in the city of Shiraz in southern Iran. Located near the site of the first empire (Takht-e-Jamshid in Persian or Persepolis in Greek), Shiraz was founded in sixth century B.C. and is famous for this delicacy. It has been a cultural staple for many centuries. Kalam polo is a dish enjoyed year-round. Because most Persian meals include rice as a mainstay and Persian seasonings and spices add a sophisticated flavor, it is a savory accompaniment to any meal. 1 large white or yellow onion, cubed 3 cups shredded white cabbage 1 cup long-grain white rice 1/2 to 1 pound ground beef Cheddar or mozzarella cheese, shredded Tumeric or curry seasoning Oil for frying Salt Optional: Raisins

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Preheat the oven to 350°F (176°C). Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add 1 cup of rice. Reduce heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until rice is tender and has absorbed all of the liquid (about 16 to 20 minutes). Remove the saucepan from heat and let sit covered for about 5 minutes. While rice is cooking, brown about a third of the cubed onion in butter or oil. Add the ground beef to the onion, then add salt and turmeric or curry. Cook thoroughly, letting the flavor of the seasonings infuse the meat. Set the ground beef aside. Brown the rest of the onion, then add the cabbage and let it cook over low heat, stirring occasionally until the cabbage is softened. Layer the ingredients in a rectangular 12” x 8” dish with half of the cabbage, then half of the rice, then half of the meat, and repeat. Top with shredded cheese and bake for 10–15 minutes. Bake the dish uncovered until the cheese is melted and browned. To serve with an optional savory topping, garnish with 1/2 cup of fried raisins. Prepare the raisins by soaking for 15 minutes, washing thoroughly, and frying on low heat until they are soft. Sprinkle them over the dish after it is baked.

PAGES 86–87 – KATIE NELSON

Kalam Polo

Katie Nelson

Cassoulet

his humble “peasant stew” made with ingredients that are readily available is flavorful, satisfying, and not as tedious to make as many classic French recipes — but it’s French throughand-through. The name “cassoulet” comes from the vessel the dish is cooked in. A diminutive form of the term cassolo (stew pan), the term is rooted in Old Provençal dialect. It’s clear from the name as well as the delicacy itself: this is more than just another casserole. 1 pound dried white beans 3 teaspoons salt 2 ½ tablespoons powdered gelatin 1 quart box chicken stock ½ lb pork (salt pork, pancetta, or thick-sliced bacon) 3 lbs skin-on chicken thighs Cracked black pepper 1 pound mild sausage 1 sweet onion, diced 1 large carrot and 2 stalks of celery, cut into large pieces Whole head garlic 4 sprigs parsley 2 bay leaves 6 whole cloves

Bon Appetit

Add the pork and sausages to the pot and stir, then nestle chicken onto the top, making sure the chicken skin is not submerged. Place the uncovered pot into the oven on the lower-middle rack and cook for approximately 1 ½ hours, then add more water as necessary to cover the beans. Increase heat to 375°F (190°C) and cook for another 30 minutes, until the beans are cooked and the skin of the chicken is crispy. Once a crust has formed on the top of the stew and the chicken skin is crispy, remove the chicken thighs and set aside, remove the whole sausages and chop into bite-sized pieces, then stir them back into the dish and replace the chicken thighs. Finally, remove the head of garlic and squeeze out the cloves; they’re perfect for serving as an appetizer or side on crusty bread. Optional tasting note: Serve to the adults at the table with a hearty French red wine like a Languedoc or Côtes du Rhône.

This dish requires some advance preparation — the night before, soak the beans in a bowl of water overnight, adding about 1 teaspoon of salt per quart of water. The next day, start by sprinkling the powdered gelatin on the chicken stock, then set aside to thicken. Sauté the pork over medium heat until the fat is rendered (browned) and the meat is crispy, then set aside in a separate dish. Sprinkle both sides of each chicken thigh generously with cracked pepper and cook undisturbed, skin-side down, until the chicken skin is well-browned. Set aside with the pork. Brown the sausages on both sides, then set aside with the other cooked meats. Pour off most of the fat from the pan, leaving about 2 tablespoons. Sauté the onion in the fat, stirring regularly, until the onions are soft. Drain and rinse the soaked beans and add them to a large pot with the onions, the prepared mixture of chicken stock and gelatin, and the remaining unused ingredients. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Remove everything from the pot except the beans, the head of garlic, and the liquid. These veggies were only here to flavor the broth and will be mushy and unappetizing to eat, but those who prefer more vegetables can add fresh carrots and celery before baking. Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

Little Heroes

Darcy Tuscano

n 2014, when Avalon Sueiro was barely 10 years old, her parents took a deep breath and a big jump out of the American rat race and moved the entire family to Costa Rica. Their experiment went so well that they continued on, moving to Ecuador and then France, living in each country for 9 to 12 months at a time. During those years, they traveled in cars, buses, or trains to explore the world around them. Now based in mainland Europe, they focus on traveling throughout the region in their (sometimes) trusty RV, “Lemonade.” Their travels have covered 43 countries in the last five years, so it can be hard to put down roots and meet up with friends. Now 14 and an avid reader, Avalon found herself wanting to connect with other teens to discuss the books she loved. “I read a lot, but my family isn’t interested in the types of books I read; after a while, I felt like I just had to have someone to talk to about reading. So I picked a few books, brainstormed some ideas for projects we could do about said books, and the rest is history. I love talking to other kids about books.” Avalon knew getting the word out would be the key to a successful book club, so she brainstormed the best approach to reach other kids. A motivated self-starter who also happens to be fluent in three languages (English, French, and Spanish), Avalon ending up teaching herself how to build a website and started marketing Avalon’s Place on social media platforms a few weeks before the start date of her new book club. Teens can now find it through her website, her posts on Facebook or Instagram, or word of mouth. These tech-savvy kids are the leaders of a new kind of book club that meets online thru a video chatting platform called Zoom. “In the book club, we talk about the book we’ve been reading [and] do a cool project related to the book. We laugh, vent about how bad some bookto-movie adaptations are, and have an overall amazing time!” Avalon also has a carefully thought out process to choosing the book. “I usually come up with a theme first, then I think back

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to books I’ve enjoyed that go with that theme. I sometimes check Goodreads too, if I’m out of ideas. We’ve done themes like dystopia.” The online club has space for six teens, but the number of participants who sign up changes every month. Originally, the club was free, but after the first session, this budding entrepreneur loved running it so much that she decided to make a business out of it. Currently, she charges $25 USD for seven weeks. Every seven weeks, the group reads three books relating to the theme. Then, on the last week of the session, the group convenes on Zoom to discuss the book and complete their craft. “We get to talk while doing an awesome project relating to the book, for one hour. We also have a group page on Goodreads where the materials for the next projects are displayed and where we can chat outside each meeting and see which books are coming up next.” As a teen who is often on the move, Avalon values having a group of friends to whom she can relate. The book club has been an amazing opportunity for her to make tons of friends, and they generally keep in touch via their Goodreads accounts. While Avalon doesn’t have any current plans to meet her online friends in real life, she’d love to do so if given the opportunity! “The best thing is that people in the book club have maintained friendships long after the sessions are over.” The Avalon’s Place book club is special because it unites kids of all ages, from all walks of life, and the far corners of the world who love one thing: reading! It is open to any kids, boys and girls alike, from ages 11 to 14. Avalon’s next book club session starting in September will consider how girls “overcome their adversaries” with the theme “Strong Female Month” and will discuss The Hunger Games, Esperanza Rising, and The Girl Who Could Fly. Visit avalonsueiro.com to find more information about the clubs and other services this inspiring teen offers and to sign up now.

AVALON SUEIRO

Avalon’s Place, An Online Book Club for Teens

OUTSIDE THE CLASSROOM

Georgia Aquarium

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Tonya Miller

he Georgia Aquarium is the largest indoor aquarium in the Western Hemisphere, with more than 10 million gallons of water. There are 100 distinct habitats for wildlife, including whale sharks, sea lions, bottlenose dolphins, belugas, manta rays, penguins, and more. Located in downtown Atlanta, its seven curated galleries give visitors access to unprecedented interactive experiences. This aquarium is more than a large building dedicated to viewing fish. The Ocean Voyager exhibit, one of seven different exhibits, winds guests through a moving walkway tunnel of acrylic bliss as manta rays, whale sharks, guitarfish, goliath groupers, and more swim above. If this isn’t impressive enough, keep walking and step into a carpeted seating area with a captivating 60-foot (18-m) floor to ceiling wall of water. Visitors are mesmerized as manta rays do vertical loops and whale sharks eat from color-coded buckets during feeding time. SCUBA-certified guests or daring swimmers ages 12 and up can be spotted swimming with the gentle giants and waving to onlookers. In Aquanaut Adventure, kids get to see and touch coral, starfish, baby rays, and baby nurse sharks. They will love traveling through the seven different routes through the exhibit, each with its own Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math (STEM) challenge — kids can explore freshwater and marine habitats, dive into scientific research, and learn what it is like to have a career in marine sciences. Complete five challenges and receive Georgia Aquarium Aquanaut certification. Cold Water Quest offers a two-story viewing window of beluga whales and a deck for trainer–animal interactions. Watch penguins from a pop-up tunnel in the middle of the exhibit as they swim for fish or waddle with them as trainers lead several African penguins on a stroll through the main atrium daily between 10 and 11 a.m. Sea otters will captivate audiences as they dart through the water and solve puzzles for snacks. Find the portholes designed to make guests feel as if they are a part of the exhibit. For an additional cost, guests can don a wetsuit to get an up-close experience with the beluga whales. Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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popping up out of the sand. The anatomy of the various jellyfish is particularly captivating: the Pacific sea nettle’s elaborately long tentacles and throbbing bell-shaped heads; the purplestriped jellyfish’s pink radial pattern of stripes and ruffled oral arms; and the white-spotted jellyfish’s bell, over a foot and a half in diameter with eight long, fleshy oral arms and flaps of tissue. The 4D Funbelievable Theater combines high-definition movies with special effects like bubbles and splashes of water to allow viewers to experience the underwater world from an animal’s point of view. The rotating lineup includes titles such as Shark, Mystery of the Ancient Amulet, and Happy Feet. BEST WAY TO VISIT Arrive at opening time and plan to spend the entire day. Purchase tickets online and reserve seats for the AT&T Dolphin Celebration in advance, and book a Behind the Seas Tour or an Animal Encounter with beluga whales, African penguins, sea otters, sea lions, dolphins, or harbor seals. Opportunities to SCUBA dive or swim with the whale sharks and manta rays are also available. The Georgia Aquarium is located in downtown Atlanta, Georgia, at 225 Baker Street NW. For more information or to make reservations, visit www.georgiaaquarium.org.

PAGES 90–92 – GEORGIA AQUARIUM; PAGE 93 – UNDERWATER: MIKAEL DAMKIER; MOUTH: ANDREA IZZOTTI; SPOTS: CRISOD; REMORA: ANDY; SNORKEL: MAX TOPCHII (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM)

The Dolphin Tales show features the intelligence of bottlenose dolphins while they interact with their human trainers, showing off their grace and athleticism. The auditorium seating is first come, first served, or seats can be reserved online for $5. Showtimes vary daily. Guests can also book a dolphin encounter to touch and feed these friendly creatures. Pier 225’s Under the Boardwalk presentation features charismatic California sea lions. Filled with giggles and goofy behavior, this exhibit features trainers interacting with this incredible species while educating guests on the dangers they face in their natural environment. Guests can also book a Sea Lion Encounter to go behind the scenes to interact with these playful animals. River Scout is the aquarium’s only freshwater gallery, featuring underwater animals from throughout Africa, South America, Asia, and North America. At the entrance, kids can crawl into a tunnel to see fish from the inside of the tank while parents snap silly pictures. Meandering through this exhibit, guests will see log jams, waterfalls, albino alligators, African pancake tortoises, and even get an up-close look at the razorsharp teeth of piranhas. The Tropical Diver exhibit has over 200 species of living coral and thousands of colorful reef fish with a crashing wave overhead. Guests joyfully search for Nemo (clownfish) and Dory (blue tang) and spot seahorses and curious garden eels

Tonya Miller

IN THE FIELD

WHALE SHARKS Use this guide to take a deeper dive into the underwater world discussed in Outside the Classroom.

he whale shark (Rhincodon typus) is the largest fish in the world. However, it is not a whale. Rather, it is a slow-moving, filter-feeding, bottom-dwelling shark. It has a broad, flattened head and, unlike most sharks, its mouth is nearly at the tip of its nose instead of underneath its snout. Several hundred rows of tiny, hook-shaped teeth that have been likened to a wood rasp lie inside its mouth, although it doesn’t usually use them for eating. Instead, it uses them to filter feed on plankton, krill, fish eggs, and occasionally small squid or fish. Unlike other filter feeders, which generally rely on moving slowly through the water and moving their heads back and forth to let plankton flow into their mouth and through the gills, the whale shark actually sucks water into its mouth like a vacuum cleaner. This allows it to pull in a lot more plankton than other filter feeders. Once the whale shark draws in a big gulp of plankton-rich ocean water, it closes its mouth and expels the water through a set of large gills. The gills act like strainers, filtering out the water while retaining any small, solid organisms in the whale shark’s mouth. Whale sharks can grow up to 40 feet (12 m) in length and weigh an average of 5 tons (4536 kg). Despite their size, whale sharks are gentle and harmless to humans. They live in warm water across the globe and travel thousands of miles to gather at dozens of major feeding locations around the world, from Western Australia and Indonesia to Belize. Between May and September, the waters of Mexico’s Quintana Roo state, located on the northeastern Yucatan Peninsula, attract an estimated 800 or more whale sharks in a given season, the highest known concentration of feeding whale sharks. The whale shark’s bluish grey to brown back is covered with thousands of cream-colored spots scattered in a pattern believed to be unique to each shark, like a human’s fingerprint. Researchers knew little about the reproductive cycle of the whale shark until a female shark was captured and observed in 1995. Scientists first learned that the whale shark gives birth to live pups when her examination revealed that she was pregnant with 300 shark pups ranging in size from 16 to 24 inches long. Swimming with whale sharks is generally the highlight of any underwater adventure. For a guaranteed up-close-andpersonal encounter, visit the Georgia Aquarium and book the Journey with Gentle Giants. If you prefer to see them in their natural habitat, make your way to the Yucatan Peninsula. The high-volume tourist resort towns of Cancun and Isla Mujeres offer all-day guided boat tours. For a more authentic feel, make your way to Isla Holbox, a quiet traditional fishing community with streets of white sand and virtually no cars. Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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Adalin Greenway, 10, lives in the mountains outside of Boise, Idaho. She is a self-proclaimed mountain girl and proves it every day. Her most recent adventure took her to the Maze district of Canyonlands National Park in Utah.

"Living in Jordan was great and everyone was really nice. The hummus and falafel and all the food was really, really good." Lucy Dornsife, 8, is always up for an adventure and has become an expert at making new friends by attending three different elementary schools on three different continents. She enjoys drawing, swimming, putting on shows for her family and friends, and reading. She also loves playing with her little brother, Danny.

96 | Everywhere Magazine June/July 2019

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June/July 2019

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