THE GOURMET profile
TALENT IN WONDERLAND, MATÍAS FERNÁNDEZ OF
Casa Mono
WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF GUY SIRRE
I
f Santa Claus were living today then surely the name on his DNI would read ‘Guy Sirre’. The Belgian founder of dining havens Casanis in the Old Town and Casa Mono in the centre of Marbella has been hard at work for 10 years in Marbella, running venues that are not just places to dine, but veritable treasures troves of art, culture and a certain mystique which is hard to define. Sirre’s passion for African art and the plethora of antique furniture pieces from his mother’s collection have found their way into interiors that are as eclectic as the restaurant’s founder. He surrounds himself with good people too – take Clement Mokeddel, for instance, maître d‘ of Casa Mono, whose good looks are matched by his innate talent for making guests feel both at home and very much like they have stepped into a quite magical place. Sitting in the verdant terrace of Casa Mono as I await Matías Fernández, the young Argentinean whiz who is also the restaurant’s Head Chef, I am taken aback by an invisible web of artistry being spun all around me. Enigmatic contemporary artist, Aldo Gigli, is leafing through a book representing species of plants, seeking inspiration for the restaurant’s next mural. To the left of my table, a colourful mosaictiled Andalusian fountain flanked by lush foliage is matched in joyful beauty by a surreal Magrit-inspired mural. Since Matías is applying a few finishing touches in the kitchen, Guy invites me back to his ‘workshop’ where a carpenter is working on more of Casa Mono’s many handmade wooden and mosaic tables. Indeed, the constantly updated woodwork is one of the pièces de résistance of this restaurant. Upstairs, the tour continues; Guy has made a serious investment into
creating the new ‘British Monkey Salon’ lounge and dining area, which strikes me as the perfect surrounds for an intimate dinner or private party that demands a special kind of artistry and elegance. British colonial pieces are joined by an expansive library of books available for the client’s perusal – a homage to Guy’s love for culture, food and reading. Matías arrives and I begin to think I’m seeing double: the similarity to Oscar-winning actor, Matt Damon, is uncanny. He is joined by another Argentinean culinary maestro: Fabián Cangas, Executive Chef of both the Casanis and Casa Mono restaurants. Fabián, who has just returned from a stint with Paul Bocuse, has been at Casanis for 10 years now and he tells me of the rich evolution he has seen in Casanis’ cuisine since its establishment: “Casanis started off as a bistro with cuisine that was simpler in nature than it is now. Now, I like to call our cuisine `Bistronomía´”: a word play on the words bistro (which conjure up images of simple, hearty food) and gastronomía (which, in Spanish, carries with it ideas like creativity, personality and artistry). While Casanis serves up more traditional Belgian and French dishes, the fare at Casa Mono contains influences from the Italian, French, Mediterranean and Asian traditions, thanks in no small part to Chef, Nacho Jiménez, who, Matías tells me, “tends to take dishes into the Oriental realm”. Both Matías and Fabián are keen travellers. Fabián, who has worked in cities as far removed as New York and Sydney, recalls the Virgin Isles as being particularly breathtaking in their beauty. Matías, meanwhile, is freshly back from a two-week stay in Belgium, where he honed his craft in the kitchens of famed restaurant, Les Uns Avec les Hôtes. If Fabián, 31, has always been passionate about cooking, Matías, 32, discovered its joys later in life, since he had initially decided on becoming a lawyer. Interestingly, these days, he can’t imagine himself doing anything he loves more – this despite his hectic schedule, which he juggles alongside the
responsibilities of being a husband and dad to a ninemonth old baby. Today, says Matías, he is busy working on dishes for the new season’s menu. These include a sinfully creamy goats cheese aumônière and a tuna dish served with wok-style vegetables and a mushroom sauce, livened up with touches of dashi, mirin and sake. The team is also busy preparing for Christmas. This year, diners will enjoy special dinners on both Christmas and New Year’s Eve. On the evening of 24th December, Matías has planned a traditional Christmas dinner, featuring lobster, oysters and classic winter delights. On the 31st, diners will enjoy tucking into an exquisite tasting menu, which will reveal Matías’ most creative, imaginative side. “You learn a lot by seeing, tasting and experiencing food”, says Matías and as he and Fabián hurry off to dedicate their day to their greatest passion, it seems fitting that such talented individuals should have landed so far from their birthplace (Argentina) to give free reign to their talent beneath the guiding hand of the wizard that is Guy Sirre. e
g Casa Mono and Casanis are open daily for lunch and dinner. CASA MONO: C/ Estébanez Calderón 19, Marbella. Tel: 952 774 578. www.casamono.es CASANIS: C/ Ancha 8, Old Town, Marbella. Tel: 952 900 450. www.casanis-restaurante-marbella.es
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