Essential Magazine October 2014

Page 38

THE FOCUS history

in Marbella

I

f history had worked out differently, Prince Alfonso von Hohenlohe might have gone straight to the nearest garage when his Rolls Royce broke down in Marbella, and the jet set holiday playground might never have been built. Incredible though it may seem, one century before the ‘chance arrival’ of its ‘founding father’, Marbella was in the vanguard of Spain’s Industrial Revolution, producing 75 per cent of its iron ore. Had that enterprise prospered, the Prince would surely have taken one look at the landscape of slag heaps and blast furnaces and moved on. Providentially, fate took a different turn and, like all good fairytales, The Prince fell in love and stayed on to open the Marbella Club, which marks its 60th birthday this year. With its landmark La Concha mountain backed by a blue screen of cloudless skies, Marbella had a similarly bewitching effect on others, through the ages. ‘Location – location – location’, to quote the well-worn realtor’s mantra, dictated its history then, as now. Sheltered by mountains and watered by rivers, with a microclimate perfect for cultivation and an

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ocean teeming with fish, almost every civilisation in history was eager to capitalise on nature’s cornucopia. Conquered by all the usual suspects, Marbella also benefitted from these ‘benevolent invaders’ who left their mark in positive as well as negative ways. Inhabited since the Stone Age, vestiges of a Phoenician fish factory near Los Monteros, and a Carthaginian version near Puerto Banús, suggest that Marbella earned a good living from garum, a fish sauce that was the caviar of its day. The fossilised shells of murex sea snails, which produced a purple die that was all the rage in Rome, are also liberally scattered through the municipality’s subsoil.

A Roman ‘Des Res’ Evidence that people were building fine summer homes here long before Taylor Woodrow was unearthed as recently as 1960, with the excavation of the Roman villa at Rio Verde near the Coral Beach Hotel, now restored and open to the public: an almost perfectly-preserved black and white mosaic patio floor whose depictions of amphorae, kitchen utensils and tables heaped

with meats and fruits provide a fascinating insight into Roman life. A mosaic of Medusa the Gorgon was a Roman form of guard dog, warding off evil; at the entrance to the dining room, a fashionable pair of flip flops that wouldn’t look out of place between the toes of a TOWIE star was a reminder to guests to remove their shoes, according to Roman custom. A bathroom complete with plunge pool suggest that this was a high-end holiday home. Although historians are uncertain whether Salduba or Cilniara was the true Roman nucleus of Marbella, it’s clear that the answer to the famous Monty Python question, ‘what did the Romans do for us?’ is ‘quite a lot’. The main streets of Ricardo Soriano and Ramón y Cajal follow the original route of the Via Augusta which once connected Spain with Rome. A 1st-century Roman bridge which was part of this ancient highway surreally graces the gardens of the Hotel Puente Romano. Ruins of a Roman necropolis and thermal baths at Guadalmina and artefacts still surfacing in and beyond the Old Town are further proof.

Marbella Club

Once upon a tim e


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