Tour de Vézelay - A 140 km circular walk inspired by old and new pilgrimage routes.

Tour de Vézelay 1st edition, 2021

A 140 km circular walk along old pilgrimage routes

Legend

Vézelay Route described on this page Short variant described in frame Variant described elsewhere GR Route + GR together Altitude line Boundary of Département Forest Pasture Urban area, buildings

© 2021, 1st edition. by: Huberta Wiertsema and Arno Cuppen photos: Office de Tourisme de Vézelay, Daniël and Odille Maillet, Jolanda Stammes, Hans Luyten, Arno Cuppen and Huberta Wiertsema, Wikimedia Commons, portal Patrimoine du Morvan. maps: Wobien Doyer, OpenStreetMap KML-/GPX-tracks: Han Lasance poem: Catharina Visser, from: ‘Vézelay, De kracht van hemel en aarde’, (Heeswijk, the Netherlands, 2016), publisher: Dabar-Luyten, www.dabarluyten.nl design: Astrid Sibbes printed by: Imago Prints, Utrecht, the Netherlands published by: Pilgrims’ hostel L’Esprit du Chemin

Le Chemin, 58800 Anthien, France

tel. +33 (0)3 86 22 02 85 – info@espritduchemin.org – www.espritduchemin.org Our hostel is located exactly 25 km from Vézelay, almost directly on the Vézelay Route direction Santiago de Compostela, via Nevers and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

TOUR DE VÉZELAY

Table of contents Welcome

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Pilgrimage routes to and from Vézelay

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Map of Vézelay

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Overview Tour de Vézelay

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Regional heritage

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Route West

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Route East

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Route North

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Meaningful Journey

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Notes

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Poem

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Tip: On the website Tour de Vézelay, you will find a lot of practical information about this Tour, including free downloadable files with the itinerary and facilities (accommodation, shops, etc.). Go to the link or scan the code. http://www.tourdevezelay.eu/en/ Request: if, along the way, you discover that information is not (or no longer) correct, please let us know. Mail to: info@tourdevezelay.eu. Thank you in advance, also on behalf of those who set out after you!

Tour de Vézelay

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Welcome!

Welcome to the Tour de Vézelay! A 140 km circular walk, from Vézelay and back, inspired by old and new pilgrimage routes.

The Tour mainly passes through the area south of Vézelay: the valleys of the Yonne and the Cure, the hills in between, and the wooded northwest corner of the Morvan regional park.

Vézelay is a spiritual place for many, the surroundings are beautiful and varied, and there is a thousandyear-old tradition of pilgrimages.

Vézelay: rise, decline and revival At the beginning of the 11th century, news spread that the Abbey of Vézelay kept relics of Mary Magdalene and that miraculous healings were taking place. In 1050 Pope Leo XI gave his blessing to her cult.

Ten years later, he officially confirmed that her relics were in the abbey. In 1096, the construction of a large abbey church, the current basilica, began. The front porch (narthex) was built around 1140 to accommodate the influx of pilgrims.

The decline started around 1200. In 1295, Pope Boniface VIII declared that only the Monastery of Saint-Baume (Provence) preserved relics of Mary Magdalene.

Much damage was done during the Revolution. Then the abbey was demolished. The abbey church survived but was in disrepair.

Half a century later (1840) the revival began, when architect Viollet-le-Duc renovated the basilica.

The basilica and the hill of Vézelay have been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1979. There are nearly a million visitors every year.

Basilica of the light The great tympanum of the basilica focuses on the proclamation of the faith after the crucifixion of Jesus and his resurrection. Mary Magdalene was the first to witness this.

The basilica is essentially one beautiful symbol for the diffusion of divine light and an invitation to be absorbed in it.

As a ‘sun temple’, the basilica stands in a long tradition of similar structures, such as Stonehenge (England). On the tympanum you will find, among many more, the originally Egyptian zodiac.

There are therefore many different interpretations of this unique building, religious and esoteric.

What we believe they have in common is, that they are fascinated by the mystery of our existence.

Yonne, Cure and Morvan The surroundings of Vézelay also tell fascinating stories about a long and eventful history.

During the Tour, various themes present themselves, such as: the exchange between the city and the countryside. For example, the Morvan supplied firewood to Paris for centuries and in the 19th century the region took in some 50,000 Parisian foster children. For a long time, these services provided much-needed extra income for the residents of the Morvan. When these fell, at the end of the 19th century, the migration to the cities started.

You will experience the consequences along the way. Many houses are empty. It seems as if ‘real’ life takes place elsewhere. Not infrequently we get the worried question in our hostel if there is a con-

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nection to the internet. So yes. Moreover, it is precisely here - in nature and silence, under beautiful starry skies and near healing springs - that you can also make another connection: with yourself, with the universe. And even in the quietest villages you can suddenly have a nice meeting with one of the residents. We know many examples of great, spontaneous hospitality.

A pilgrimage On the way, sometimes it feels like you are walking through a large, winding labyrinth, formed by river valleys, forests, farmlands and vineyards. Sometimes you get completely absorbed in the landscape and then, suddenly and in the distance, you see the basilica on ‘the eternal hill’ again.

The basilica is located in the middle of nature. One moment you are walking between the trees of a sloping forest, half an hour later between the columns of the basilica. A winegrower is at work on the great tympanum, while grapes may be harvested outside. In summer, after the harvest, you walk between large rolls of straw to Vézelay and discover the beautiful capital of the mystical grain-mill.

So, you are invited to step over thresholds again and again, from inside to outside and vice versa, and from the hectic pace of modern life to the mystique of old times. This way you can feed yourself with what this region offers you and recharge your batteries, physically and mentally.

Logo The symbol of the Tour de Vézelay is based on the spiral, with its circular shape. This form is common in nature. Think galaxies, whirlwinds, eddies, horns, pinecones, snail shells. We also see the spiral in the ammonite, an extinct marine animal, which you can find as a fossil in the vicinity of Vézelay. After all, millions of years ago this area was covered by a large ocean.

The spiral has become a symbol of natural, balanced growth: of the cycle of life, death and rebirth.

The spiral is also a symbol of inner growth. When you are consciously on the move in your life, you remain open to new experiences, encounters and insights. If you can give them a place in your daily life, you will close the circle, on a different level. This way you can turn your life into a Meaning Journey.

Fossil of an ammonite (left); spiral on the great tympanum of the basilica of Vézelay (right) Pilgrim’s passport With the Tour de Vézelay Pilgrim’s passport you can spend the night in pilgrim hostels on the way.

Please only order and use this passport if you really want to make the Tour as a pilgrim. You will also find tourist accommodation.

Tour de Vézelay

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When is it a pilgrimage? In the end, you only know that yourself. The pilgrim pass of the Centre Sainte Madeleine in Vézelay describes this as follows: “Friends, pilgrims. Wherever you come from, whatever language you speak or whatever your faith, whatever the length and motive of your pilgrimage, your journey touches us.”

Each pilgrim makes her or his own Meaningful Journey, with respect for the other (pilgrims, hosts, residents) and for our planet.

Practical information You can walk the Tour de Vézelay in about a week. If you have more time, you can walk an access route to Vézelay. If you have less time, you can take a shorter circular walk.

The Tour de Vézelay is not really a tough journey, unless you want to camp and bring a large backpack.

Still, there are definitely tough parts, especially when you have to climb and descend regularly. However, a ‘climb’ (or descent) in one go of more than 80 meters is rare.

The itinerary alternates between unpaved paths and quiet, asphalted roads. The route is almost completely marked.

You can walk this Tour all year round, but the best time is from the end of March to the beginning of October. Outside that season it is more difficult to find accommodation.

The Tour in itself is really worth traveling to Vézelay. But of course, you can also combine it with other (holiday) plans.

It can be a great opportunity to go on a pilgrimage on your own, a wonderful chance to share your pilgrimage experience with family or friends, or a special way to organize an (international) pilgrims’ reunion.

See the website Tour de Vézelay for additional information. Make your Tour a Meaningful Journey. (See p. 41, also for our inspiration cards.) ◀

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Pilgrimage routes to and from Vézelay The Tour de Vézelay is inspired by old and new pilgrimage routes, to and from Vézelay.

The contemporary pilgrimage routes are easy to trace, using markings in the field, directions and maps in guides, and tracks for GPS devices. These pilgrimage routes lead to ancient, sacred sites, but that does not mean that they also follow historical itineraries.

In the past, pilgrims will have followed existing roads as much as possible. These were often old Roman roads. But if it is already known where those ancient roads ran, for the modern pilgrim they are often no longer usable. They have then made way for asphalt roads or new construction.

Old routes In Vézelay pilgrimage develops from the middle of the 11th century. Construction of the basilica began in 1096. The narthex was built around 1140 to accommodate the great influx of pilgrims.

As an important pilgrimage destination, Vézelay also attracted other initiatives: – the Codex Calixtinus was written around 1140. It is one of the oldest records of the then new pilgrima ge to Santiago de Compostela. Vézelay has a promi nent place in it.

– in 1146, Bernard of Clairvaux made his famous call for the Second Crusade near Vézelay.

In 1190, the kings Richard I (England) and Philip II (France) gathered their troops there for the Third Crusade.

– around 1232, the Franciscans founded their first monastery outside Italy near Vézelay.

The importance of Vézelay is also evident from many buildings in the area, sometimes still (partly) visible, sometimes only mentioned in historical sources: – the commanderies of the Templars (between TharoiCodex Calixtinus seau and Island) and the Knights Hospitaller (in Pontaubert) – the Cross of Montjoie (‘Croix de Montjoie’, near Tharoiseau) – the leper colonies at Pontaubert, Saint-Père, Asquins, Cure, Metz-le-Comte (Vauprevoir) and Véze lay. The spread of leprosy increased rapidly in the 12th and 13th centuries with the return of infected Crusaders.

However, little is known about the routes that the pilgrims followed to and from Vézelay. It is known that there were some Roman roads in this region: from Autun - via Pierre-Perthuis and Le Chemin - to Sens, and from Autun - via Avallon and Pontaubert - to Boulogne-sur-Mer. The Codex Calixtinus lists four main routes through France towards Santiago de Compostela: from Paris, Vézelay, Le Puy-en-Velay and Arles. However, these routes are not described as such. The Codex only contains a list of the saints that the pilgrims should visit on their way. On the Vézelay Route these were: Mary Magdalene (Vézelay), Saint Leonard (of Noblat) and Saint Front (Périgueux).

The question is whether the often-published map below was actually made in 1648 and to what extent it is based on historical data. The four ‘routes’ mentioned in the Codex are recognizable. As well as, Tour de Vézelay

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approximately, the current pilgrimage routes from the north - via Auxerre and Avallon - to Vézelay and then on, towards Santiago, via Nevers and Bourges

New routes Vézelay is still an important hub. Pilgrimage routes from Paris, the Netherlands and Belgium, Germany and Switzerland converge here and then fan out towards Santiago (via Bourges, Nevers or Le Puy-enVelay) and Assisi (with the tomb of Saint Francis).

Some of those routes are inspired by historical itineraries: see the map from ‘1648’. Other routes are inspired by their distant, sacred destination, while the individual stages are mainly determined by what the region has to offer: nature and culture, existing paths, accommodation. This applies, for example, to the routes to Le Puy-en-Velay and Assisi, which wind their way along the Cure through the Morvan.

Other routes Several weekends a year, Vézelay itself is the center of pilgrimages, for example of the ‘Pères de Famille’, the ‘Mères de Famille’ and the ‘Scouts d’Europe’. Vézelay is also a main destination for the Chemins Pèlerins, as are Autun and Saulieu. Probably there are more pilgrims on the routes to Vézelay than from Vézelay to Santiago de Compostela and Assisi. The Tour de Vézelay is inspired by these regional traditions.

Conclusion The final destination and the route to be followed - historical or not - are important components of a pilgrimage. But above all it is up to you to give meaning to your pilgrimage. We wish you a Meaningful Journey!◀

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Map Vézelay 1 Basilica of Mary Magdalene – ‘Sainte Marie-Madeleine‘.

2 Viewpoint and terrace of the former castle of the abbots.

3 New Gate – ‘La Porte neuve’.

4 La Cordelle chapel (see p. 40).

5 5 Musée de l’Oeuvre – Medieval sculptures, collected during the restoration from the basilica.

6 permanent collection of modern art and exhibits, located in the residence (1937-1944) of Romain Rolland (see p. 20).

7 Maison Jules Roy – house and garden of the writer, lectures and exhibits about literature.

8 Cité de la Voix – center for vocalists, concerts and music festival in August.

Chemin de ronde (Circular walk along the ramparts, approx. 30 minutes).

source: Tourist Office Vézelay

Health center, including a pharmacy Tourist Office – ‘Office de Tourisme’ Taxi stand Town hall (issues parking tickets for more than one week) Post office Defibrillator ATM Public toilets Bus stop Parking lot Viewpoint Camping and youth hostel Tour de Vézelay

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ROUTE NORTH Vézelay

ROUTE WEST

Le Chemin Anthien

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Overview Tour de Vézelay ROUTE OOST ROUTE EAST

Tour de Vézelay a circular walk of 140 km.

The Tour is described in three parts: • West - 50 km: p.16 • East - 73 km: p.26 • North - 15 km:p.36 You can walk the Tour de Vézelay in about a week and still have the time to enjoy the surroundings and Vézelay itself. You could then divide the stages as follows: West 1. Vézelay - Brèves: 25 km (campsite, including furnished bungalow tents) 2. Brèves - Le Chemin: 25 km (pilgrims’ hostel L’Esprit du Chemin) East 3. Le Chemin - Brassy: 23 km (camping, hotel) 4. Brassy - (nearby) Chastellux-sur-Cure: 24 km (gîte) 5. (nearby) Chastellux-sur-Cure - Saint-Père: 25 km (camping, including mobile homes) North 6. Saint-Père – Vézelay: 15 km (various options) But of course, you determine your own pace.

More information about the accommodation mentioned and other options, and about shops etc. on the way: see the separate list of facilities. This list allows you to organize your Tour yourself.

You can download the list of facilities at http://www. tourdevezelay.eu/en/facilities, or scan de code.◀

Tour de Vézelay

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Regional heritage Vézelay and the Morvan are rich in nature and culture. This is widely recognized: - in 1970, the Morvan got the status of Regional natural park, - there are a few dozen, nationally recognized, historical monuments, - in 1979, Vézelay and the pilgrimage route of Vézelay were added to the World Heritage List (UNESCO), - Vézelay is also recognized as one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France (‘Plus Beaux Villages de France’) and as Sanctuary City (‘Ville Sanctuaire’), - work is now underway for the ‘Grand Site de France’ label, for Vézelay and the surrounding area.

So, there is a lot to see and experience along the way. Here, and in the directions, we already lift a tip of the veil.

Churches and chapels The Morvan converted to Christianity relatively late. After that, certain old customs continued to exist for a long time. Many churches and chapels were built on ‘pagan’ power spots, which were attributed, among other, a healing effect. Think oak trees, springs and underground water flows. This would also apply to the basilica of Vézelay. The pilgrimage to this church was started by stories of miraculous healings ....

Wayside crosses The first wayside crosses appeared in the eighth century, but many were placed especially after 1095. Then the right of asylum, which already existed for churches, was extended to the wayside crosses. These too became sanctuaries, where people could escape persecution and violence.

Crosses were placed to commemorate events or the deceased, to protect against disaster, or to mark roads and borders.

Other crosses indicated the place where tolls were taken or where justice was administered.

Wayside crosses come in all shapes and sizes. Wooden crosses, made by a local carpenter, to be placed in the ground. Granite crosses, carved by itinerant companions and placed on a carved stone plinth (18th century). Iron crosses, cast in series in large-scale workshops.

Laid hedges In addition to beautiful forests, this area also has an old bocage landscape. The farmers planted hedges around their fields and pastures. A natural fence that became fuller every year through pleaching and bending. A clever invention: the hedges provided firewood, limit soil erosion and serve as a windbreak.

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They are also good hiding places for birds and small game. Nowadays farmers no longer have the time for traditional maintenance. The hedges are cut by machine or replaced by barbed wire.

Stone walls Another characteristic partition is the stone wall. Farms, gardens, orchards are often surrounded by low walls. The walls are masonry or stacked ‘dry’, so without the use of cement or mortar. High walls can often be found around country estates or mansions.

Fountains and wells In the Morvan the water supply was not really a big problem for the population. Certainly in comparison with other regions, where a communal, and sometimes richly decorated, fountain occupied an important place in a village. In the Morvan many houses and farms had their own well. You will encounter dozens on the way.

Wash houses In the past, every hamlet or village had its own washing place, fed by a spring or stream. The first wash houses appeared at the end of the 18th century. In 1851 it was decided by law to grant loans for the construction of public wash houses, in order to improve hygiene.

You can still find them in many places. Construction is very different. Some are dilapidated, others have been carefully restored.

Wine The first vineyards were planted around Vézelay as early as the Gallo-Roman era. At its peak, it concerned approximately 500 hectares. At the end of the 19th century, the vineyards, here and elsewhere, were largely destroyed by an epidemic of the phylloxera (an insect pest) from North America. At the end of the 1960s, there were only a few hectares left around Vézelay. Shortly afterwards, some twenty winegrowers started replanting. Now the vineyards cover nearly 100 hectares. In 2017, the wine was awarded the quality label ‘AOC Vézelay’, a great recognition.

The smaller wine region around Tannay has experienced a similar decline and recovery.

About 20 hectares are now cultivated (‘Coteaux de Tannay’). In many other places, viticulture has been completely lost.

On the way you will pass two shelters of winegrowers, after Saint-Père and after Asquins. These Tour de Vézelay

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are made of ‘dry’ stacked stones and recently restored. Dozens of other shelters are disappeared, also because the stones were reused elsewhere Other sources As in other mountain areas, the inhabitants of the Morvan sought additional income through seasonal work in or outside the region, especially through wood rafting and foster care.

Wood rafting At the beginning of the 16th century, fast-growing Paris needed more and more wood to heat itself.

However, the forests around the capital were exhausted. (With the exception of the untouchable crown domains.) This is how the plan arose to get wood from the Morvan and transport it over water. Before transport, the wood was made to measure (and marked): blocks of 1.14 m long and 20 cm in diameter.

These were thrown into streams and small rivers in the autumn and then drifted to depots along the Yonne and the Cure. In the spring the journey continued, via the rivers and canals to Clamecy (Yonne) or

to Vermenton (Cure). There rafts were assembled, up to 75 meters long and four to five meters wide. At the end of the summer, they floated in 12 days via the Yonne and the Seine to Paris.

To make all this transport possible, waterways were adapted, bridges and mill brooks were protected, and depots were set up. Many smaller lakes (étangs) were created and the larger Lac des Settons (1858, not on our route). These provided the water for the artificial floods that carried the wood.

At its peak, around 1800, more than 500,000 m3 of wood was transported to Paris every year. The work was very labour intensive. At the end of the 19th century, when the rafting industry was declining due to competition from railways and coal, it still provided work for over 2,000 people along the Yonne and 600 along the Cure.

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Foster care Another important source of income was foster care, from the end of the 18th century. At first, it mainly concerned children from the region. After 1850, mainly children from the Seine département were placed on farms in and around the Morvan. They were therefore nicknamed ‘Les Petits Paris’ (Small Parisians). Ultimately, more than 50,000 children were involved.

In the second half of the 19th century, women from the Morvan also went out to work temporarily as wet nurses (nourrices), especially for wealthy families in Paris.

‘Fermes 1900’ Because of this additional income, the migration to the cities started relatively late, around 1880. Remarkably, many people who did not leave, experienced a period of progress thereafter. They now had on average larger farms. The technology kept getting better and the demand for their products from the big cities increased. It was therefore possible to expand existing farms (with an extra barn and / or floor) or build new ones. A collective term for construction from that time is ‘fermes 1900’ (farms from around 1900). Take a good look, you will easily recognize it along the way. ◀

Tour de Vézelay

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Tour de Vézelay - WEST - 50 km.

From Vézelay, on the valley of the Cure, the route goes through forests to the valley of the Yonne (and the Canal du Nivernais), with historic small towns such as Asnois and Tannay, striking churches and castles, vineyards and views. After Montceaux-le-Comte, the route leaves the valley of the Yonne and ascends gradually to the hamlet of Le Chemin, through a hilly, open landscape crowned by some wooded hilltops.

Alternatives In between, two options are described to shorten the walk.

Waymarking Slightly less than half the route goes along the GR654 (red-white marking). In addition, occasionally and briefly, local routes are used, the markings of which are not always properly maintained. However, with the directions and the maps below, the route is easy to find. This also applies to those parts of the route that are not marked.

Vézelay [1] – ‘Croix de la Madeleine’ [2] (7,7 km) Vézelay, from the Sainte-Marie-Madeleine basilica: [1] walk down the main street (first: Rue Saint-Pierre, then: Rue Saint-Etienne). At the end: turn left. (On your right: first Hôtel de la Poste et du Lion d’Or, then Relais du Morvan.)

Then continue straight on, via the D957, direction Saint-Père and Avallon. (So first ignore a road on the right, towards L’Étang and Fontenay, then a road on the left, towards Asquins and Auxerre.)

After about 200 m, in the bend: leave the D957 and go straight on, via a dirt road. (The Vézelay Route (variant via Nevers) and the Chemin d’Assise also follow this itinerary.)

Marking: follow the red-white marking of the GR13 / GR654 to Saint-Père and then on.

After about 200 m: fork left and keep following this dirt road for about 1.4 km, descending, to Saint-Père.

Arive in Saint-Père , descending via the Chemin Saint Christophe. (The last part is asphalted.) Fork left (Rue du Moulin des Marguerites). After about 70 m: take the first road on the right (Rue Dessus les Fossés).

Alternative: a visit to the Notre-Dame church. Then take the second road to the right (Rue des Pierres). Turn left at the end (a junction with a well in the middle). The church is a little further on, on the right.

After your visit: return to the well and continue straight on. After about 50 m, the road turns left: turn right here (Chemin de la Fontaine), direction ‘Val en Sel’, past a monument to the fallen (left). At the next junction: continue straight on (you are back on our main itinerary). route WEST 16

Église Notre-Dame. This church (13th-15th century) was restored in the mid-19th century by Viollet-le-Duc, the architect who also restored the basilica of Vézelay. Notre Dame became a parish church at the end of the 16th century after the previous one (Saint-Pierre) was destroyed during the Wars of Religion.

The remains of the Saint-Pierre can still be seen, at the southern exit of the village. The remains are from the 11th and 12th centuries, but the original church was much older. Perhaps it was (also) the church of the abbey that was founded here in 863, on the site of a former Gallo-Roman villa. This abbey soon suffered from looting and destruction. In 887, during the Norman raids, the monks took refuge on the hill of what is now Vézelay. The new abbey was founded there.

At the end of Rue Dessus les Fossés: turn right, past Bed & breakfast Val en Sel (left) and then a wash house (lavoir, also left). The small road bends to the left. A little further on: fork right. Follow this small road for about 800 m. (On the way, to the right, views of Vézelay.) Then turn left onto a narrower road, uphill. (On the way, on the right, a shelter made of ‘dry’ stacked stones.) Descend on the other side. (At first a forest on your right, then vineyards). At the next fork (at a post with several markings): leave the GR13 (and the Chemin d’Assise) and turn right.

Marking: from here follow the red-white marking of the GR654.

After about 800 m (vineyards on the right, fields on the left), at the end: turn left and follow this small road to an asphalt road. Follow this to the right. After about another 800 m: turn left, onto an unpaved road, at first up, then descending, then ascending again. (Looking back: views of the basilica of Vézelay).

After about 1.4 km: arrive on an asphalt road. Follow it to the left, for about 200 m, to a junction near the ‘Croix de la Madeleine’ (a wayside cross) [2].

‘Croix de la Madeleine’ [2] – junction near La Vignotte (farm) [3] (5,1 km) At the junction [2]: turn right, onto an unpaved road. After about 500 m, on a junction of five roads: continue straight on. (So, ignore two roads to the right and one road to the left.) The path descends first, then ascends. (On the way, to the right, views of Vézelay.)

About 750 m past the junction: arrival on an asphalt road. Follow this to the left for a moment, then turn right, onto a semi-paved road. After about 150 m, before a barrier and a sign ‘Propriété Privée’: turn right, onto a forest path. At the end: turn left, to return shortly afterwards on the semi-paved road that you left at the said barrier. Follow this to the right.

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After about 1 km, at a junction (red-white marking and a yellow-blue sign ‘Chemin de St Jacques de Compostelle’): turn left, onto a forest path.

After more than 1.5 km and a long descent, the path ends at the access road to the Senosse farm (left; just before, at a fork: turn right). Follow this road to the right. After about 400 m: arrive at the junction near La Vignotte farm [3].

Junction near La Vignotte [3] - Metz-le-Comte - l’Armance (near Sardy les Forges) [5] (9,1 km) At the junction [3] (just before it, on the right, next to a large tree: a sign ‘Chemin de St Jacques de Compostelle’ and the GR marking): turn left, direction ‘La Vignotte’.

Alternative: an abbreviation via La Maison-Dieu and Sardy les (see p.19).

A little further: turn right, onto an unpaved road. Walk along a forest edge (left), then through a forest and then through fields (at the end: keep right), up, to the Forêt farm. The road is paved from there. A little further: turn left, onto an unpaved road, descending. A little further: cross the access road to the farm, straight on. (In front of you, slightly to the left, you will see the hill of Metz-le-Comte.) A little further: arrive on the D42. Cross and take the C7 to Metz-le-Comte.

At the end of the road, in Metz-le-Comte (on an old Roman road): cross the D280 and continue in more or less the same direction (Route de Vézelay, D165). Past the village square (Place de la Mairie): take the first road to the right (Rue Narcy). At the next junction: go straight on (Rue de la Chapelle). Before the chapel: leave the asphalt and take the dirt road to the left. Follow this to an asphalt road (the D510). If you want to visit the church on top of the hill (views), follow that road to the right.

Notre Dame de l’Assomption. This church (12th century) was once part of a castle. It was taken by the troops of Vézelay at the end of the 16th century, during the Wars of Religion, and then destroyed.

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route WEST

Open from June 1 to October 1, Monday afternoon and Wednesday morning. On other days, pick up the key from the town hall (‘Mairie’). After your visit, descend the same way.

If you do not visit the church: follow the D510 to the left, about 200 m, down. Just before a larger road (Route de Vézelay, D165): take the side road to the right. After more than 300 m, at a junction, end of asphalt [4]: keep right.

Alternative: you leave the GR654 here, which goes directly to Asnois [6]. This is described as an abbreviation on p.20.

Follow the unpaved road for about 900 m to an asphalt road (the D280), near some trees and a wayside cross. Follow that road to the left for a moment, then turn right, onto an unpaved road, which first rises slightly, then descends. Just before a larger asphalt road (the D165): fork left, onto another unpaved road. After about 500 m, at a junction: continue straight on.

After about 1.2 km: fork right, still descending. After about 400 m: turn left, onto a narrow, unpaved road, between hedges. To the right of it flows the stream L’Armance [5]. The abbreviation described below, via La Maison-Dieu and Sardy les Forges, connects here with the main itinerary.

Abbreviation: junction near La Vignotte [3] - La Maison-Dieu - Sardy les Forges [5] (4,3 km) At the junction near La Vignotte [3]: turn right and follow this asphalt road (Route de Senosse) to the D165, at the edge of the village of La Maison-Dieu.

Follow the D165 to the left, to the church. Just past the church and the church square, at a fork with a pump and a well, near the ‘Mairie’: turn right (Rue de la Poterne).

Marking: From here, follow the blue marking of a local route.

Follow this road - first asphalted, then unpaved - to Sardy les Forges, where the road is asphalted again (Rue de Montaigu).

In Sardy, at a fork with a beautiful chestnut tree in the middle: keep left and immediately afterwards turn left again, onto Rue du Lavoir (= wash house). A little further: cross the D42 and go straight on.

Pass the wash house (right).

After about 150 m, at a fork: turn right, onto a narrow, unpaved road, between hedges. To the right of it flows the stream L’Armance [5].

Marking: you leave the blue marked local route here and are back on the main itinerary.

L’Armance (near Sardy les Forges) [5] – Brèves (camping) (2,9 km) [5] After about 200 m, the small road ends on an asphalt road (the D143). Follow this to the left. After another 200 m: turn right, onto an unpaved road, through the fields. After about 900 m: arrive on an asphalt road. Follow this to the left, more than 500 m, to the D985.

Follow the D985 to the left, for about 100 m, then enter Brèves, half right, via the Rue Colas Breugnon.

After more than 100 m: turn left (Rue Traversière). At the end: turn right (Rue de la Mairie). At the junction past the town hall: follow the sign ‘camping’.

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Romain Rolland. Romain Rolland, author and winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature 1915, is buried in Brèves. He is known for his call for peace and reconciliation, shortly after the outbreak of the First World War. (“Above the Battle”, September 1914.) The numerous war memorials, also along our route, are silent witnesses to the fact that Rolland was a man shouting in the desert for a long time. In fact, many saw him primarily as a traitor. From 1937 to 1944 Rolland lived in Vézelay, where he died.

You can find his grave in the cemetery next to the church, near the D985. (More than 500 m past the turn off of our route to Rue Colas Breugnon, named after a book by Rolland.)

Brèves (camping) - Asnois (bridge at Canal du Nivernais) [6] (3,2 km) From Brèves village square: follow the D185 direction Asnois. First cross the Yonne, then the Canal du Nivernais.

Immediately after the Canal: turn left (picnic area) and follow the cycle route along the canal, direction Asnois.

At the next bridge (about 2 km past the picnic area): leave the cycle route (and the canal) and turn right, up, to Asnois [6].

The abbreviation described below, via the GR654 from Metz-le-Comte, connects here with the main itinerary.

Abbreviation: junction past Metz-le-Comte [4] - Asnois (bridge at Canal du Nivernais) [6] (2,7 km)

Marking: for this abbreviation, follow the red-white marking of the GR564.

At the junction past Metz-le-Comte [4]: turn left, onto an unpaved road, descending through fields.

After more than 500 m: arrive on an asphalt road. Follow it to the right, about 300 m. Then turn left, onto an unpaved road.

Marking: in 2019, the red-white marking was missing at this point, but there was a yellow-blue marking of the Vézelay (pilgrimage) Route (variant via Bourges), which comes from the other side and follows the same itinerary from here, to Asnois.

After about 600 m, the road bends right. More than 200 m further: turn left and descend to the D985.

Cross it, more or less straight on and keep descending, via an asphalt road. Cross the Yonne first, then the Canal du Nivernais [6]. Then you are back on our main itinerary.

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Canal du Nivernais. At the end of the 16th century there were already plans for a canal between the Loire and the Seine. They came out again two centuries later when Paris urgently needed firewood. So, not only wood from the Morvan but also from forests near the Loire could be transported. Construction lasted from 1784 to 1841, when the firewood trade was already threatened by the rapid rise of coal.

The canal is 174 km long, from Decize (Loire) to Auxerre (Yonne, which merges more than 100 km further with the Seine). Due to the height differences, there are, among other, three tunnels and 116 locks. In addition, there are many facilities to maintain the water level, such as the aqueduct of Montreuillon and some reservoirs. (Not on our route.) The canal is now used for pleasure craft.

Asnois (bridge at Canal du Nivernais) [6] – Tannay [7] (5,0 km) Marking: from here you follow the red-white marking of the GR654, to Tannay.

[6] In Asnois: continue more or less straight on, still uphill. On the village square: straight on, via the Grande Rue / D185 (direction Ouagne). After about 100 m: turn left (the Vézelay Route goes straight on), following the sign ‘Église’ to the church of Saint Loup, located in a small valley. (On the way, to the left: views over the valley of the Yonne.)

Asnois. Just before the village square, you pass a ‘brocante’ (second-hand shop, left), in and around the former chapel of Sainte Barbe (15th century), which was sold during the Revolution.

There was a priory around the church of Saint Loup (13th century). It was destroyed during the Wars of Religion.

Just before the church: turn left and follow a green sign ‘Canal du Nivernais (..) 800 m’, via an unpaved Tour de Vézelay

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road that goes around the church in a wide bend and then descends further to the Canal (ignore small roads to the left and right). At the canal: follow this to the right. (This is again the cycle route you left just before Asnois.)

At the next bridge: leave the cycle route and turn right, via the D165 (direction Tannay). Immediately after the railroad crossing: turn left, onto a dirt road, up, to Tannay [7]. There you arrive again on the D165: follow it to the left, to the church square.

(At the junction before the church: turn left for the pilgrim’s hostel, about 100 m, no. 17).

Marking: here you leave the GR654, which turns right. We don’t come across this GR anymore.

Tannay [7] – Lys – Montceaux-le-Comte [8] (9,1 km) [7] Walk right around the church, then take the second street on the right and shortly after the first street on the left (Rue de Lys). At the next junction: straight on (Chemin de Pignol). This asphalt road winds through meadows and goes twice through a small valley.

After about 1.3 km: arrive on a larger asphalt road. Follow this to the right.

In the hamlet of Pignol, fork left, descending, passing a wash house, then up again. At the next junction (the access road to Lys castle is on the left): continue straight on, direction Lys, along a wall of the estate. The road then bends to the left, along the wall. (On the estate, left: a beautiful tree-lined road to the church of Lys. Behind it: views to Tannay.) Pass the church on the right and continue in the same direction, descending.

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Just before Saint-Didier: arrival on the D213. Follow it to the left (direction Flez-Cuzy). After about 60 m, at a fork: leave the D213 and turn right (Rue Pierre Serveau). After about 50 m, at a fork (well in the middle): turn left, up (Rue du Pignon). Church of Saint-Didier. (Behind it: view over the Yonne valley.) At the junction before the church: turn right, up (Rue de la Roche). At the end: turn left, up. (So, ignore a ‘dead end’ sign). Continue for about 1 km. (In the forest, the asphalt ends, and the road is unpaved).

At a fork: follow the yellow marking of a local route to the left, via a small road that descends in a straight line to the Canal du Nivernais. (Just before the canal: cross a railway line. The local route turns left here.) Cross the canal and follow it to the right, to the bridge of the D128. Follow the D128 to the left, to Montceaux-le-Comte. About 150 m past the bridge over the Yonne, there is a grocery store (right, ‘Alimentation Générale / Tabac’, now closed) [8].

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Montceaux-le-Comte [8] – Le Chemin [9] (7,7 km) At the grocery store [8]: turn left (Rue du Commerce) and follow the sign ‘Auberge du Centre’. Pass the Auberge and go straight on. At a junction: keep right. After about 30 m: fork left (Rue de la République).

After about 50 m, at a wayside cross: turn right (Chemin de Sermizelles), slightly up, to the D985. Cross it straight on and continue via the D128, direction Saizy, up, for about 2 km, to the first houses of the hamlet of Vaux (On the way: views to the left).

In Vaux: take the first road on the right, direction La Grange des Bois (farm). After more than 150 m, at a T-junction (with a well on the left): turn right again. After about 400 m, well before the farm, near a stone wall: turn left, onto an unpaved road that bends right after about 300 m. Following this road to a junction with asphalt roads. Cross straight on and continue, for more than 200 m, descending to the D217. Follow the D217 to the right, to Moulinot.

In Moulinot: leave the D217 and turn half left, up, direction Anthien (the C9). The road continues to climb, about 2 km (ignore the turn off to Echon), to the hamlet of Le Chemin, (On the way: views to the left.) At the end: turn left. (More than 100 m further on is the pilgrims’ hostel L’Esprit du Chemin.) [9].

Croix du Chemin. Just after the last junction you will pass a stone wayside cross (right). The cross was made in 1760 by a local stonemason. When his client could not pay, he donated it to the village. The cross is on the old Roman road from Autun to Sens.

The story goes that during the Revolution two gendarmes from Corbigny were ordered to take down the cross. The men worked in the fields, but the gendarmes were met by the women, armed with sticks. The women forced them to kneel before the cross.

In 1984, the cross was classified as a historical monument. It urgently needs to be restored.◀

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Tour de Vézelay - EAST - 73 km From the hamlet of Le Chemin (municipality of Anthien) you can well see the hills of the Morvan. That is the next goal. First, the route goes to Lormes, which is already a lot higher. From there you walk through the landscape that is so typical of the Morvan: forests, lakes, small-scale meadows and fields, bordered by hedges, rows of trees, and stone walls.

Halfway between Brassy and Chastellux, the route rejoins the Cure, to follow it - sometimes at a greater distance, sometimes very close – downstream, to the Saint-Père campsite.

Marking See the comments for each route section.

Le Chemin [1] - Lormes - Brassy (23 km) Marking: from Le Chemin to the church of Anthien, we follow the Vézelay Route (variant via Nevers), which is marked yellow-blue. Then we mostly follow local routes, the (yellow) markings of which are not always properly maintained. However, with the directions and the maps below, the route is easy to find.

At the wayside cross of Le Chemin: descend via a grassy path, to an asphalt road (the D6). Follow the D6 to the left, to the church of Anthien. Pass the church on the left and keep following the D6, direction Lormes. (The Vézelay Route turns right at the church.)

At the junction with the D958: continue straight on, still following the D6, direction Lormes, first up again, then down. Take the first road to the right (the VC2), to Montigny.

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Marking: From here, follow the yellow markings of a local route until just before La Vallée.

In Montigny: go straight on, to Magny-Lormes.

In Magny-Lormes (0.6 km past Montigny), at the junction near the ‘Mairie’: turn left, down. Just past the stream: leave the asphalt to the right and walk up a dirt road. Almost at the top: arrive again on the asphalt road. Turn right, to the hamlet of l’Haut.

Cross l’Haut and descend to the right, to the D147. Follow the D147 to the left, up, to a forest edge (right). Turn right there, onto an unpaved road, descending, first along the edge of the forest (left), then through meadows. At the lowest point is a stream. Cross it and walk up, to an asphalt road, near a few houses. Turn right.

Marking: you leave the yellow marked local route, which turns left.

Shortly after, at a T-junction (with a well, left): turn left. Keep following this road. Ignore the side road (right) opposite a gîte [2]. Follow the road up, to the village of La Vallée. At the first traffic sign (priority, ‘stop’ 20 m): turn left, steeply up, to the D6. Cross straight on (watch out!) and continue, still ascending. Ignore two roads from the left. Shortly after the road starts to descend: arrive on the D6 again. Follow the D6 to the left, until 50 m before the sign ‘Lormes’.

Leave the D6 and turn half left, onto an unpaved road. A little further: arrive on an asphalt road (Route de Richateau). Follow this to the right, again to the D6. Follow the D6 to the left.

Lormes. The town is located on the edge of the Morvan, a granite low mountain range. The valley of the Yonne, characterized in part by limestone, is now behind us. You can experience this transition with an ‘ascent’ of Mont Justice (470 m) [A] and / or a descent in the Gorges de Narvau [B].

[A] Mont Justice (there and back: 1.5 km, height difference: 65 m): follow the D6 for another 90 m, until the first road on the left. From that corner: follow the (three) signs ‘La Justice’ to the viewpoint. On the way back, at the said corner: follow the D6 to the left. After about 90 m, the main itinerary also joins the D6 A little further on: turn half right, onto a small road, first down, then up, to the D6 again. Follow the D6 to the right and keep following it, up, until a stop sign, next to the Office de Tourisme (opposite the hotel restaurant Perreau). Turn right, then straight on. Continue via Rue Paul Barreau.

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[B] Gorges de Narvau (waterfall; there and back: 1.5 km, height difference: 50 m): turn right at the end of Rue Paul Barreau (Route de Narvau, sign ‘Quartier des Moulins’). After more than 100 m: follow the same sign to the right (Rue des Moulins, dead end). Seven mills used to run here, powered by the small Auxois river.

At the end of the road: turn right onto a path (sign ‘Gorges de Narvau’). At a T-junction, near the sign ‘Quartier des moulins’ (pointing back): turn left, descending. At the next fork, with three yellow signs: turn left to the waterfall (‘cascade’) or visit it at the end of the ‘Tour des Gorges’ (about 1 km). Return the same way.

At the end of Rue Paul Barreau: turn left, towards the town hall (‘Hôtel de Ville’). Turn right there (Rue du Pont National). Continue to follow this Rue and exit Lormes via a long straight road (the D944, direction Château-Chinon). Just before L’Étang du Goulot: turn left, towards the campsite. Étang du Goulot. This lake, like many lakes in the Morvan, was created in connection with firewood rafting. (See p. 14.) The lake feeds the small Auxois river, which flows into the Yonne.

You can swim in the lake. Around it are picnic spots.

Tacot du Morvan. Until the 20th century the railway lines did not go beyond the edges of the Morvan. Between 1901 and 1908 a narrow-gauge railway (‘Tacot’) was built through the northern Morvan, from Corbigny via Lormes to Saulieu, for the transport of passengers and goods. Due to increasing competition from transport via an ever-better road network, the railway was closed in 1939.

The former Lormes station now houses the reception and restaurant of the camping.

Marking: the local walking route Lormes - Brassy is marked yellow (sometimes: orange-brown). The marking is mostly applied a long time ago and not always very frequent. However, with the directions and the maps below, the route is easy to find.

The [capital letters] in the directions refer to the relevant places on the maps.

[C] Lormes campsite: follow the asphalt road past the campsite (right). At the end: turn right, onto a dirt road.

[D] Near a low wall of stacked stones: turn right, descending. A little further: cross a stream, via a small stone bridge. Then up again. Shortly afterwards the path ends at a wider road. Follow that road to the left.

Near a small lake (Étang du Moulin) and some houses: turn right. (On the side of the house to the left, you see the paddle wheel of the mill (‘moulin’)). A little further: keep left. After about 200 m: ignore a small road to the left. After about 150 m:

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[E] Turn left, up considerably, in a straight line. After about 500 m, the road descends, then ascends again.

(Just before: ignore a road to the left). After about 500 m: cross a larger, semi-paved road, still going straight on and up. After more than 100 m, descending: arrive again on the road you just crossed and follow it to the left. After about 350 m: [F] at a junction: turn right, descending. (Attention: another yellow marked route turns left here). Ignore a small, steeply descending road to the right. After 300 m, at a fork: follow the dirt road to the right, still descending. (Some yellow markings, plus markings of a mountain bike route (VTT). Along the way: views to the right.)

At the hamlet of Les Gaux: turn left immediately after the first house (left). At a junction near telephone poles and a ‘Station Sismique’: continue straight on, still descending.

[G] Keep right. Just past the stream: go up, to the right. Note: follow the small, hollow road.

At a fork, near a sign ‘attention chiens BREBIS’: turn sharply left, up. Shortly afterwards, at the end of the pasture (right) [3]: turn sharply right.

A little further: turn right again. (The same pasture is still on the right; again, marking for VTT routes.) Descend further, to the D17.

Cross it (watch out!) and continue on the other side.

[H] Watershed. After about 50 m you walk underneath the dyke of the Étang de l’Ormée. On our route, this is the last lake in the Yonne drainage basin. The next lake, l’Étang des Vernois, is in the drainage basin of the Cure.

A little further, at a yellow sign ‘Gâcogne - alt. 500 m ‘: straight on.

(The VTT route turns right here.) Cross the D17 again. Continue on the other side and keep right. At a sign ‘Brassy-Les-Vernois’: fork right, descending. Shortly after: ignore a path to the right. After about 300 m, descending: turn left and walk along the lake (Étang des Vernois) and continue in the same direction, up. (On the way: occasional marking, yellow and/or orange).

After about 750 m, past a large plot where the forest has been cut (left, views), at a junction: keep half right and continue, about 1,2 km, more or less straight, to Rivières.

Here the road is asphalted. At the end: arrive on another asphalt road and follow it to the left. After about 50 m: turn half right, onto a semi-paved road. (Sign ‘No cars and motorcycles’.) After about 200 m: ignore roads to the right and left and continue, still up slightly, then descending. At a fork: do not descend further, but take the small road to the left, up. Further on the road descends to the Chalaux river (picnic area). Cross it and ascend.

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[I] At the first junction past the river: turn half left, into a forest, still up, then descending.

Arrive on an asphalt road: turn right and enter Brassy. (Or turn left, to the campsite.) After 250 m: arrive on the D171 (not signposted as such). Turn right and descend further to the village center (shops, hotel, etc.). Or turn left, up, to continue the route. At the junction with the D6: cross straight on (slightly to the right), onto a paved road and continue following the markings (see below).

Brassy - Mazignien Coutolles [4] - (nearby) Chastellux (24 km) Marking: from Brassy to the connection to the GR13 (point [L] on the map concerned) we follow two converging routes: - the Tour du Morvan, which is marked yellow-red, and - the Chemins Pèlerins, marked by signs as shown on the right.

On the way, the two markings complement each other.

From point [L] we follow the GR13, which is marked red-white.

In fact, these markings are enough to find your way, even without the maps.

That is why below you will only find a few directions, indicated with a [capital letter], which refers to the spot on the corresponding map. (Other [capital letters] provide background information about a place.)

Note: in particular until point [L] the route goes through large forests. When trees are felled, the marking sometimes disappears too.

Lacs de Chaumeçon et du Crescent. In 1910 Paris is inundated by major floods. It is then decided to build large dams in the Seine and its tributaries. These dams should not only prevent new floods, but also ensure a minimum water level of the Seine in summer, provide drinking water for Paris, and produce electricity.

The Lac du Crescent (1929-1932, fed by the Chalaux and the Cure) and the Lac de Chaumeçon (1931-1933, fed by the Chalaux) are part of these large water works.

[4] Mazignien Coutolles: Before the hamlet there is a sign (left), which refers to the accident mentioned below [J]. Past the hamlet there is a picnic table, with a water tap (‘eau potable’) across the road.

[J] Drop zone ‘Peinture’. The Morvan is a rugged, wooded area. During the Second World War it provided therefore a good shelter for refugees and resistance fighters. During the Allied landings in Normandy (June 1944) some 30 resistance groups (‘Maquis’) were active. Some of these were supported by the SAS (Special Air Service), a special unit of the British Army. Together they would liberate the area, but the toll was high.

Also, for the civilian population, who suffered under German retaliatory measures.

Near Mazigny there was a zone (code name ‘Peinture’) where weapons and supplies were regularly dropped, for the Maquis Camille and the SAS. On July 18, 1944 things went terribly wrong: two planes collided with each other. The 15 crew members were killed. 500 m from our route is a small monument. [J] At a fork with the sign ‘Maquis Camille’ (which does not refer to the monument): straight on, via the D 210 (not indicated as such). The monument is on the left side of the road.

[K] Tombeau du roi Viking. Some 1,100 years earlier, another battle is said to have been waged near here, against the Normans, who carried out their raids via the Yonne, the Cure and other rivers. The Normans were defeated and one of their chiefs is said to have been buried near a special rock formation, 30 route EAST

which is still called ‘Le tombeau du roi Viking’ (the tomb of the Viking king). (Much later this site served as a quarry. You can still see a worked, but broken, stone slab.)

Were these the same raids that eventually led to the decision to move the Abbey of Saint-Père to a safer place, now called ‘Vézelay’?

You will find the Tombeau [K] a little to the left of the sharp bend where you leave the wide forest road, to descend steeply via a much narrower path to La Chaume-aux-Renards [L].

[L] Connection to the Chemin d’Assise and the pilgrimage route between Vézelay and Le Puy-en-Velay (here via the GR13), near the gîte La Chaume-aux-Renards.

Marking: from here follow the red-white marking of the GR13.

[M] Connection to the Chemin des Abbayes (Way of the Abbeys, a pilgrimage route).

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[N] Marigny-l’Eglise Marking: just in front of the church, the Chemins Pèlerins and the GR13 split, to reunite shortly afterwards.

Continue to Pont de Queuzon, across Lake Crescent [5], and then on.

[O] Marking: here the GR13 turns left, while the Tour de Morvan and (an eastern variant of) the Chemins Pèlerins keep right. Follow the red-white marking of the GR13.

[P] Chastellux castle.

Château de Chastellux. The castle (11th century) is built on the left flank of the Cure valley, on an old Roman road. It can be visited. The tours are given by the owner or another member of the family who has owned the castle for over 1000 years.

To the castle (there and back: 3 km, height difference: 75 m): turn right. (Leave the GR 654, which turns left, to [Q], at about 100 m.) After 50 m: fork left, following the sign ‘château’ (castle). Return the same way.

[Q] A war memorial. Opposite is a sign ‘Gîte d’étape, 500 m’.

(Nearby) Chastellux – camping Saint-Père (25 km) Marking: keep following the red-white marking of the GR13 to Pierre-Perthuis. Then we follow the Vézelay Route (variant via Nevers) to the Saint-Père campsite. As we follow this pilgrimage route in the opposite

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direction, we cannot use the marking. (Unlike GR’s, which are marked in two directions.) However, with the directions and maps below, the route is easy to find.

[R] Abbaye Saint-Martin. On the other side of the Cure, in a loop of the river, once stood the Benedictine Abbey of Saint Martin (10th or 12th century). From the bridge over the Cure, you see a round tower. This is one of the few remains of the abbey.

[S] Notre Dame de La Lumière. The statue of Our Lady of the Light (1951), on a viewpoint above the Cure, symbolizes a new era. Once the river transported firewood for Paris, now it produces electricity. Notre Dame is its patron saint, and of industry and cinemas.

To the statue (back and forth: 200 m, height difference: 30 m): about 400 m after the small bridge over the Cure [R], at a ‘Croix de Mission’ (1847), the GR turns left, onto an unpaved road. Opposite, a path goes up to Notre Dame (the start is marked by a red and white cross).

Alternative: a viewpoint on the GR, shortly after the said turn off.

[T] Barrage de Malassis. This dam was built in the same period as the dams of the Lacs de Chaumeçon et du Crescent (see p. 30.) It is the smallest dam in this area.

[U] Moulin de Gingon. About 1.8 km after the Malassis dam you pass the remains of a mill. A mill is mentioned on this site as early as the twelfth century.

About 1 km after the Moulin de Gingon: cross a small stone bridge (1770) over the Cure. (On the right you see the ‘new’, large bridge (1874) over the Cure, which you will cross later.)

Immediately afterwards: follow a steep path to the right, up, to the D353 [7]. Once there, you will see a large house with two round towers (left), and the village of Pierre-Perthuis.

Château de Pierre-Perthuis. In fact, you just entered the former castle. (Just before the house mentioned was the south castle wall.)

The castle (10th century) was built on the edge of a gorge of the Cure. It has been under siege sixteen times and was eventually largely destroyed during the Wars of Religion (late 16th century). The D353 now runs right through it. If you follow the D353 to the left for a short while, you will see the remains of the castle gate on

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both sides of the road. (And a main building, right.) The village church was originally the castle’s chapel. The house with the round towers was built shortly after the castle’s destruction, using stones from the ruins.

[7] Leave the GR13 and follow the D353 to the right (and keep following it until shortly after the village of Précy le Moult.) A little further: cross the large bridge over the Cure (viewpoint, at the bottom right you 34 route EAST

can see the small bridge you just crossed). After about 200 m, a local walking route joins our route from the right.

Marking: follow the yellow markings of this local route to Précy le Moult and then to the Saint-Père campsite.

[V] La Roche Percée is a rock formation in the shape of an arch, about 20 m above the Cure.

The turn off to ‘La Roche Percée’ is about 700 m after the large bridge of Pierre-Perthuis and is indicated by two signs. Then it is about 600 m (picnic area). Return the same way.

In Précy le Moult, at a fork (in the middle: trees and a bench): keep following the D353, direction Avallon.

After more than 50 m: turn left, onto an unpaved side road and keep following it, through the fields. The road descends almost all the time, to the D53, at about 1.4 km. (On the way: views to Saint-Père and Vézelay.) Cross the D53 and continue straight on, again via an unpaved road. (Left, more or less close: the river Cure.) After about 1.8 km: arrive at the campsite of Saint-Père, near the D36.

[W] Fontaines Salées. On the other side of the Cure are the ‘Fontaines Salées’. The name comes from the saltwater sources that were drawn off from 2300 BC, among other for the production of salt. In the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, a Gallo-Roman sanctuary was built near the wells, with baths and other buildings.

As of 2017 there is an archaeological museum. Remains of the former buildings can be seen on the site.

The museum can only be reached via the D 958, from Vézelay to Pierre-Perthuis. Therefore, cross the Cure via the D 53, mentioned above, or via the bridge in Saint-Père. ◀

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Tour de Vézelay - North - 15 km A varied walk through the valley of the Cure, highlights being: Tharoiseau and, on the other side of the valley, Vézelay. The centuries-long pilgrimage history of Vézelay can be found in the Cross of Montjoie (near Tharoiseau), the Saint James Church of Asquins, and of course in Vézelay itself. The walk mainly goes through fields and vineyards. That is why you can often enjoy great views. When you arrive in Vézelay (Porte de Barle) your Tour is complete.

Alternatives: In between, two options are described to shorten the walk. (The trip to the Cross of Montjoie is included in the total distance.)

Marking See the comments for each route section.

Saint-Père campsite [1] - Tharoiseau (cemetery) (3,6 km).

Marking: From here, follow the yellow markings of a local route to Tharoiseau (and to Nanchèvre. This is another route than the one you took from Pierre-Perthuis to the campsite.)

[1] Follow the D36 to the right. After 600 m: turn left, onto a small asphalt road with a strip of grass in the middle. Follow this road for about 1 km, rising slightly. (On the way, left, looking back: views of Vézelay.)

At a junction with a long, square post on each corner (and just before, on the right, a post with a waymark (scallop) of the Chemin des Hongrois (a pilgrimage route)): turn left, via a narrow dirt road, up, between hedges and trees. After about 300 m, at the next junction: turn right, again a narrow road between hedges and trees. The road first descends and then ascends, to Tharoiseau. (On the way, looking back: views of Vézelay.)

Arrive in Tharoiseau, on an asphalt road. Follow the road to the right, along a wall of the castle (19th century). At the

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next fork: turn left, to the church, with a special wash house in front of it. Pass the wash house and the church on the left and cross the village. (Just before a wayside cross (right): view of Vézelay (left).)

At the cemetery, at the end of the village, at a fork: two possibilities: - continue half left, via the main itinerary, to Nanchèvre (see below), or - visit the Cross of Montjoie (‘Croix de Montjoie’).

Excursion: cemetery - Croix de Montjoie - cemetery (1.8 km) Marking: none.

Continue half right, via the D71 to the D957. At the corner of both roads, on the left, is the Croix de Montjoie.

Then walk back to the cemetery and continue along the main itinerary.

Alternative: turn left at the Croix, via the D957 (watch out, quite busy road!), descending to the first road on the right, just before the village of Fontette. You connect there to the main itinerary.

Croix de Montjoie. In the 11th century it was customary to erect crosses on hills around an important pilgrimage site. Such a hill was called ‘Montjoie’ (mountain of joy) in French, ‘Monte de Gozo’ in Spanish. Joy, because for pilgrims the cross meant that they had almost reached their goal. From the Monte de Gozo near Santiago, you can see the cathedral, from the Montjoie near Tharoiseau, the basilica of Vézelay.

Tharoiseau (cemetery) – Fontette – Nanchèvre (3,0 km) Marking: keep following the yellow markings of the above-mentioned local route, until Nanchèvre.

From the fork near the cemetery: turn half left, via an unpaved road (Chemin de la Grande Roche), about 700 m, in a wide bend to the left, descending. Then turn right, up a path, to Fontette. Just before the village: cross the D957 and continue straight on.

(If you walked to the Croix de Montjoie and then via the D957 towards Fontette, you will connect to our main route here.)

After about 50 m, at a fork: turn left, to the center of the village of Fontette, which includes a small chapel (1657) with enormous buttresses. Pass the chapel on the right, still descending. After about 30 m, at a fork: turn right. After about 50 meters, at a washing place (right): straight ahead. After about 100 m, at a T-junction: turn left. After about 70 m: turn right. Continue via a dirt road, through fields, vineyards and a patch of forest.

After about 1 km, at a fork: turn left, descending, to an asphalt road, which splits to the right. Take the right road (Rue des Prés) to the village of Nanchèvre.

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Abbreviation: Nanchèvre – Saint-Père (1,7 km) Marking: follow the red-white markings of the GR13 to Saint-Père.

In Nanchèvre, at a T-junction: turn left (Rue du Lavoir). After about 100 m, at another T-junction: turn left again. Immediately past the house on the corner: leave the asphalt road and turn right, onto an unpaved road. Keep following this small road, which first rises and then descends, to an asphalt road. Follow this to the left. After about 300 m: arrive on the D957. Follow it to the right, to Saint-Père.

Nanchèvre – Asquins (Route des Chaumots) (3,4 km) In Nanchèvre, at a T-junction: turn right (Rue du Lavoir) and follow the red-white marking of the GR13.

After more than 40 m, past the last house on the left (number 23): leave the GR13 and turn left, onto an unpaved road.

After more than 250 m, at a fork: take the road to the left, which shortly afterwards turns to the right, first through a small forest, then through the fields. (Left: views of Vézelay and Asquins.) The small road descends to a farm. Walk left around the farm and immediately after that, at a fork, turn left (from here the road is paved). After more than 200 m, just before the Cure: arrive on another asphalt road. (For the municipal campsite, turn right here.) Follow the asphalt road to the left, crossing a long bridge over the Cure. Arrive in Asquins and on the D951.

From the North, several pilgrimage routes arrive in Asquins, to continue to Vézelay: from Paris (Voie de Sens), the Netherlands and Belgium (GR654, Via Campaniensis), Germany (Jakobsweg Trier) and Avallon.

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Cross the D951 and continue. The road bends to the left. Immediately after, at a fork with a tree in the middle: turn right (Rue de la Chèvrerie). After about 10 m: fork right (Rue du Four, bronze scallop on the road surface). After about 30 m: half right (Rue de l’Église), up, to the church of Saint Jacques le Majeur (bronze scallop in front of the entrance).

Église Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur (Saint James the Great, 11th century) is on the World Heritage List of Unesco, as a historical monument on one of the four major pilgrimage routes through France to Santiago de Compostela. In the church you will find a reliquary bust of Saint James (late 16th / early 17th century) and a stained-glass window with his image. In Asquins, Aymeric Picaud is said to have written the ‘Codex Calixtinus’, between 1135 and 1140 (see also p.7).

From the church: continue via Rue de l’Église (further on: Rue des Soeurs), which bends to the left, to (again) Rue du Four. Follow it to the right. A little further, at the junction with Rue de la Tuilerie: straight on. After about 80 m, at another junction (around a triangle with two trees and a white cross in the middle): turn left (Chemin de la Croix Blanche). (Vézelay is on the hill in front of you.) After about 350 m, at a fork near a farm: arrive on the Route des Chaumots.

Abbreviation: Asquins – Vézelay, via La Cordelle (1,7 km) At the mentioned farm: turn left. At the next fork: turn half right, direction Vézelay (Rue de Bouillère).

Marking: from here keep following the red-white marking.

Take the next road on the right (Chemin de la Cordelle). The beginning is paved, the rest unpaved.

At a junction of unpaved roads: straight on. At the junction with an asphalt road: straight on again, to the ‘La Cordelle’ chapel.

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Chapelle Sainte-Croix (‘La Cordelle’). The chapel was built around 1150. (At that time the front portal of the basilica was also built.) The chapel commemorated the call for the Second Crusade by Bernard of Clairvaux, in 1146. (The place where he preached, a little further away, is marked by a wooden cross, which replaces the original stone memorial cross.) Around 1232, the Franciscans founded their first monastery in France near the chapel. (The name ‘La Cordelle’ refers to the cord they wear around their waist.)

The monastery was destroyed several times, including during the Hundred Years War, the Wars of Religion and the Revolution. Only the chapel survived all this, albeit as a barn. The Franciscans did not return there until 1949.

Near the chapel: continue in the same direction, via a narrower road, past the Croix de Bernard, up.

Arrive on an asphalt road, near a sign ‘La Cordelle’ (pointing back): cross the road and continue in the same direction, further up, past a sign ‘Porte Sainte Croix’. Arrive again on an asphalt road: cross it and continue straight on, to the basilica.

Asquins – Vézelay[1], via de Route des Chaumots (3,7 km) At the mentioned farm: turn right. The road immediately bends to the left. Follow the road for more than 2 km, gradually uphill: first along fields, then vineyards on the left (and views of Vézelay), then through forest. (On the way, on the right: a restored shelter of winegrowers made of stacked stones.)

At a junction: turn left, onto a semi-paved road. (The road on the right goes to ‘La Vieille Borde’.) After 20 m: fork left, onto a dirt road (sign ‘VTT / FCC6’ and yellow marking), descending. (When leaving the forest and after: views of Vézelay.)

At the end of the forest edge (right): straight on (the route ‘VTT / FFC’ and the yellow markings turn right), via a field road, which descends first, then ascends and bends to the right.

Arrive on an asphalt road: cross it and continue straight on, via an unpaved road, which soon ends on the mentioned asphalt road again and a little further on the D951. Cross the D951 and continue up a small set of steps to a parking lot. Cross this and arrive again on the D951. Turn right for a moment and you are back at the starting point of your Tour de Vézelay: the Porte du Barle and the main street up to the basilica [1]. ◀

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Meaningful Journey A pilgrimage is, worldwide, an ancient symbol for the journey through life.For many people their decision to go on pilgrimage, coincides with a special occasion or a new phase in their lives.

Carrying everything you need yourself, settling into the rhythm of the journey, being in nature, facing the unknown, travelling on your own, meeting other people, making your own choices - away from the well-known and the familiar. These are wonderful ingredients for a profound experience. So, travelling as a pilgrim is an excellent way of becoming at ease, of taking the time to discover (again) who you are and what is really meaningful (‘sacred’) to you.

To go on pilgrimage is ‘in’. Routes to Santiago, Rome and other pilgrim destinations are being signposted from ever increasing distances. More and more travel guides and websites provide useful information.

However, much less information can be found about the pilgrimage as an inner journey.

That encouraged us to:

write a story about it: ‘Meaningful Journey a pilgrimage in seven stages’. It is inspired by the stories of thousands of pilgrims who spent the night at our hostel, as well as by the great travel stories and wisdom traditions from ‘all’ over the world. create a set of 24 inspiration cards. These cards are like a travelling companion.

Someone who asks you questions, offers insight and sometimes challenges you to take a different path.

You can download the ‘Meaningful Journey’ (an e-book) and the inspiration cards from our website. You can also order the cards ready-touse from us.

We wish you an inspiring journey!

Huberta and Arno pilgrims’ hostel L’Esprit du Chemin.

ON THE WAY: TIME You have all the time and you take it.

On your way you live much slower than you normally do, in another rhythm.

- How does it feel to take it slowly?

- Do you look, think or act differently because of that?

- Is time your friend or your enemy?

- Are there moments, that you have to kill time? When? How? - Do you live right here and now? Or rather more in the past or future?

On your way, do you get a different sense of time?

TIP: “That is longing: living in the waves and having no residence in time.”

- Rainer Maria Rilke -

www.espritduchemin.org | 2020

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Every day is a one-time gift. So make something beautiful out of it. Move with what is there. Let the time be the time.

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For more information and downloads, go to the website of our hostel: https://www.espritduchemin.org/en/meaningful-journey, or scan the code Tour de Vézelay

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Notes

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The power of heaven and earth Text: Catharina Visser - Photo: Hans Luyten

Pilgrim I am a pilgrim, not with emblem and staff and not to distant sanctuaries but to the true ground of what I see.

Therefore I have found this land I’ve been traversing for so many years.

The forests and the horizons the streams and the grazing cattle the villagers, bread and wine at the table and all their ups and downs.

I move around in circles and smell the scents and search the ground, the high skies the yonder valley turned inward.

I breathe in everything and continue quietly with the realization that I will never know from what it originated, from what will by what hand in the universe.

And wherever I may climb a hill the age-old basilica rises in my gaze in which, they say, the answer is to be found.

I’ve been waiting for years for the companion that leads me in there and tells me that he was my brother, every step of the way out here in the field.

The Tour de Vézelay is a 140 km circular walk, inspired by old and new pilgrimage routes. Starting point and destination is Vézelay, beautifully situated on ‘the eternal hill’.

The Tour mainly passes through the area south of it: the valleys of the Yonne and the Cure, the hills in between, and the wooded north-west corner of the Morvan regional park.

Vézelay is a spiritual place for many, the surroundings are beautiful and varied, and there is a thousand-year-old tradition of pilgrimages.

Published by pilgrims’ hostel L’Esprit du Chemin.

This is the first, English edition, 2021.