ENCHANTING OMAN

BY VANESSA DEWSON

Steeped in history and tradition, the country offers an irresistible, understated luxury, from its stunning beaches and ancient markets to verdant mountains.

After a night of rain, the clouds parted in time to let me take in the sunrise from Diana’s Point in the Green Mountain of Oman. This spot was named after Princess Diana who once visited the area and stood to admire the impressive gorge below. After taking in the glitz and glamour of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, Oman was a breath of fresh air.

Diana’s Point was named after Princess Diana visited the Green Mountain

© Vanessa Dewson

Even the beautiful Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque seems more understated from the outside but reveals one of the most enchanting interiors, including the largest crystal chandelier ever built. Known as the Switzerland of the Middle East, Oman has managed to remain neutral – and helpful – during conflicts in the region. Perhaps, because of this, it has remained under the radar of most tourists.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is one of the most beautiful and extravagant modern mosques in the world

We left the man-made oasis of Dubai a few days earlier, flying across the desert sands and over rugged terrain to reach the southeastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula. Nestled on the coast of the Gulf of Oman, surrounded by mountains, Muscat camouflages its wealth by sticking to traditional architecture and styles. Even new luxury hotels and businesses use the designs, allowing modern structures to blend seamlessly into neighbourhoods and lend them a timeless feel.

Buildings and houses are pale in colour, from white to earth tones, with no skyscrapers in sight. Along with the Grand Mosque where intricate geometric designs adorn the ceiling and walls of the main prayer hall, stops to see the Royal Opera House, featuring beautifully manicured gardens and upscale restaurants, and the Al Alam Palace with its bold blue and gold flared columns flanking the main entrance, are musts on any itinerary.

The Royal Opera House features beautifully manicured gardens

As we explored the city, I saw women wearing stylish abayas while men would typically wear flowing dishdashas – long robes with a tassel near the neck usually dipped in cologne. On their heads, they’d either wear a turban (more formal) or a beautifully embroidered cap called a Kuma, believed to have originated in Zanzibar, one of its former colonies that was an important part of the spice route.

Oman’s history of trade is still evident from the Mutrah Souq in Muscat to the markets in Nizwa, the former capital about a two-hour drive inland. The Nizwa Goat Market still happens every Friday morning and attracts locals from miles around to trade livestock. When we arrived outside the walls of the Nizwa Fort and walked through the gate, it was like stepping back in time. Weaving through alleys where terracotta pots for sale match the walls of the shops, I make my way to the entrance of the perfectly preserved fort and marvel at how the passage of time has left its mark on it.

Camels, the “ships of the desert,” have played a vital role in the region

Built in the 17th century, only the dates on historical signs betray its age. A trip up the huge circular tower allows you to take in the best views of the city where most homes and buildings are no taller than a palm tree. In the distance, the Hajar Mountain range surrounds lush fertile lands. Within the fort’s protective walls, women work on traditional crafts and shops sell everything from modern-day necessities to silver jewellery, spices and plenty of fresh dates.

I never imagined so many varieties of dates existed until I sat down to sample Omani coffee in a small corner of the date souq, surrounded by countless types and flavours of dates. Served in handleless, espresso-sized cups, the strong coffee is mellowed with small bites of the sweet, dried fruit in between sips.

Traditional souq selling terracotta pots

As we left Nizwa and climbed the mountain road towards Jebel Akhdar (jebel means mountain and Akhdar means green), the clouds rolled in and the temperature dropped. I went from swimming in warm gulf waters in the morning to wearing a down jacket come evening. The rain that began before dinner dampened our hopes of a glorious sunset. I spent time avoiding the downpour in the hotel shop and discovered frankincense is not only used for burning. The shopkeeper had some pieces in his water bottle, claiming it was also good for digestive ailments. Some, he said, even chew it like gum. He gave me a piece to try.

Balad Sayt, also known as the hidden village, is considered the most beautiful village in Oman

Frankincense is essentially hardened sap from the Boswellia sacra tree, found in Western Oman near the border with Yemen. Oman is one of the few places where frankincense is harvested and is still an important export today. I reluctantly took a tiny piece and began to chew. It tasted like what I’d imagine pine sap to taste like and just as sticky.

Local men in traditional wear

© Vanessa Dewson

After taking in the sunrise the next morning, we received news that the normally dry wadi (valley) we were to visit was full of water from all the rain, making it impossible to drive through. Rather than wallow in disappointment, we laced our hiking shoes and explored the village hugging the cliffs near our hotel. Painted markers guided us along foot paths between houses and along small terraces where crops were beginning to grow and where we caught glimpses of a simpler life against a backdrop that took our breath away.

Old sailboat anchored at Mutrah Corniche in Muscat

Steeped in tradition and history, friendly and safe, the secret is starting to get out as more tourists discover Oman. Award-winning luxury resorts are cropping up along the beaches of Muscat and in the mountains, making the country a perfect and unique destination for those who want to relax in style or crave a little adventure.