CAVE DWELLING

BY CHRIS ROBINSON

A stay in Cappadocia reveals an underground world, fairy chimneys and Turkish culture seemingly untouched by time.

Travellers worldwide come to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cappadocia for a unique blend of history, culture and nature,especially fairy chimneys. Their creation started a few million years ago when nearby volcanoes erupted and covered the region with a soft rock called tufa.

Over many millennia, it eroded into a maze of valleys and plains dotted with ‘fairy chimneys’ – tall towers of tufa protected under capstones of harder rocks. Think the hoodoos of the Alberta Badlands on steroids. With the arrival of man more than 3,000 years ago, it was discovered that tufa was ideal for carving out caves, houses and entire cities.

With so many amazing sights, visitors to the area may need a base from which to experience this strangely beautiful land. Such an extraordinary destination demands an equally extraordinary place to stay. One option is the Tafoni Houses Cave Hotel in the village of Ortahisar in the heart of Cappadocia.

Close to many of the main sites, the property is the brainchild of Ferit Kayrak and his wife. From 13 original cave dwellings, they created a boutique-style hotel (now with 18 suites) decorated with prints, paintings and metal work from Turkish artisans. Modern amenities and luxurious touches are grafted onto the innate coziness of the cave rooms themselves. If luxurious camping is ‘glamping,’ then this is truly ‘glaving.’

Kayrak welcomes couples and multi-generational families alike to his underground hotel. For couples, the romance of a cave room is accented by spas and inroom massage therapy. Terraces open to the birdsong and perfumes of the garden. For families, what child would not be over-the-moon to stay in a cave and go exploring an underground city like nearby Kaymakli? It’s a unique experience for all.

Back at Tafoni Houses, Kayrak ensures authenticity in every detail. The hotel’s on-site restaurant serves local cuisine and specialty dishes, like orta’asar kokumu (beef cutlets baked in a terracotta oven). And in the late afternoon, guests can partake in traditional hookah on the terrace, accompanied by a selection of teas from a charcoal fire. After dinner, they can observe the starlit sky with a vintage telescope.

Tafoni Houses is a perfect base from which to enjoy the many different ways of experiencing Cappadocia. An iconic activity is a hot air balloon ride over the landscape. Horseback riding, cycling and hiking are all available from the hotel, located directly on the Balkan Deresi, one of the finest trails in Turkey. It’s a perfect way to experience the weirdly wonderful scenery, vibrant birdlife and an incredible Byzantine church carved out of the tufa rock.

The village of Ortahisar is off the beaten path of tourists, seemingly untouched by time, so it has been able to maintain its traditional roots. While visiting, Kayrak recommends spending an evening at the local caravanserai – a 13th-century inn built for merchants travelling the Silk Road. Here, guests can experience the whirling Dervishes – talented spinning dancers who put on a mesmerizing performance.

Between its rich culture, warm hospitality and welcoming hosts, memories of time spent in Cappadocia and the incredible cave suites of the Tafoni Houses will beckon you back, so you can continue the adventure.