THE KINDNESS OF STRANGERS

BY KRISTEN POPE

Japan’s Shikoku temple pilgrimage highlights the warmth of fellow pilgrims and locals.

Walking toward the temple gate, a tiny girl about five years old approached me, smiled and shyly handed me a small pink cloth Hello Kitty bag. I peeked inside the sack to see a pickled plum, candies, an origami ball, small beaded charm and a handwritten note in Japanese, decorated with cheerful pictures of flowers and animals.

Her teacher translated the message. It said, “Have a good walk and take care.” It made me smile. The school children were sharing gifts of encouragement with those embarking on Japan’s Shikoku temple pilgrimage, a journey circumnavigating Shikoku Island with stops at 88 temples. It was the first day of our journey and we would stop at over two dozen temples during the next week and a half. The student’s thoughtful gesture was just a preview of the kindness I would experience along the way.

Kan’onji Temple and Jinnein Temple in Kagawa, Shikoku

In another town, a man saw our group walking through town and he presented our guide with a bag of treats for us to share. On another day, we met a woman and stopped to chat. She was hiking the pilgrimage solo and shared her own stories about the hospitality she encountered during her journey. We exchanged biscuits and cookies, extended well wishes and went our separate ways. Such interactions built a sense of comradery among fellow pilgrims and locals.

The reasons people choose to embark on such a pilgrimage can vary and be deeply personal. Our guide cautioned it was considered impolite to ask one’s reasons. For me, I saw the journey as a perfect time to slow down and look ahead at what I wanted from life. There just isn’t time for such contemplation in my day-to-day existence. This type of slow travel rooted in history was the perfect opportunity to press pause on busyness and reflect.

Ema wooden plaques at Terukuni Jinja Shrine

It can take many weeks to visit all 88 temples on the rural island. While some will hike the entire distance between each temple, many others use buses, cars, taxis and other transportation to cover ground. At each stop, when the person making the pilgrimage reaches a temple, they say prayers and make offerings. Some pilgrims travel to all temples in one go, but many choose to experience a short section of the trail one at a time, returning months or years later to attempt another portion.

A moment of quiet reflection at Ryozenji Temple © Walk Japan

Many pilgrims choose to wear traditional garb, including a white jacket and traditional woven bamboo hat, while carrying a walking staff and a bag containing incense sticks, offerings and a special stamp book. In it, the staff from each temple will use calligraphy to create a unique distinctive stamp.

Pilgrim wearing traditional garb

As we walked, we ascended steep mountain passes, marched beside rice fields in the blazing sun and even navigated encounters with overly inquisitive Japanese giant hornets. At times, the footing was challenging, but when I slipped on a mossy stone and tumbled to the ground, there was a helping hand waiting to assist me back to my feet. Sharing snacks and encouraging words, we covered ground happily while enjoying the beauty of rural Japan.

Shinto shrine of Kumano Nachi Taisha © JNTO

Far from the bustling metropolises of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka, the Shikoku temple pilgrimage is like taking a step back in time with isolated mountain trails, stunning scenic passes and wildlife along the routes. It provided a perfect opportunity to reflect, contemplate and look ahead. It felt like a far departure from Japan’s sprawling, bustling high-tech cities.

After a day out on the trail, hiking and visiting temples and shrines, I would settle into a relaxing evening onsen routine, when I would soak in hot springs often located right on-site in the places I stayed. One outdoor onsen was only accessible via cable car, while another one invited patrons to soak in a wooden tub with colourful flowers floating in its warm water.

Stairs to Kumano-Nachi Taisha © JNTO

At night, I could relax and enjoy delicious Japanese cuisine, from mainstays like miso soup, tofu and tempura, to rare delicacies like the infamous fugu blowfish.

But what stays with me most from my time in Japan is the kindness I experienced everywhere I went. The warm wishes and smiles of people I encountered along the way are truly part of a universal language of goodwill.