MASTER THE ART OF WELLNESS

BY CHRIS RYALL

A trip to Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur – the land of Cézanne and Matisse – awakens the senses with spa treatments inspired by ancient traditions.

A holiday in Provence and the French Riviera typically involves driving through scenic countryside filled with lavender fields and vineyards, combined with exploring centuries-old cities brimming with museums and street markets. But there is more to this region, known as Provence- Alpes-Côte d’Azur, than art, culture and natural beauty. As a devoted spa enthusiast who has sought out treatments in every corner of the world, I was keen to discover the wellness offerings in this part of France with historical ties to Roman baths and relaxing holidays.

My wellness journey begins in Aquae Sextiae (the waters of Sextius), now called Aix-en-Provence. Founded by Romans in 122 BC, it would be decades later that thermal springs would be discovered and baths built. Fast forward 2,000 years. Thermes Sextius Spa is located over the ancient ruins of those same baths and thermal springs. Water flows everywhere in Aix, known as the ‘City of a Thousand Fountains.’

Villefranche-sur-Mer, near Nice, the perfect place to relax

Romans soaked in the healing waters to recover from battles but my mission was to just relax and revitalize. Thermes Sextius is the region’s largest spa facility. It features a Finnish sauna, aromatic hammams, ice fountain, tropical showers, Jacuzzis, relaxation lounge, heated outdoor pool and fitness area. The spa with its blend of historical and modern architecture features treatments from wraps and scrubs to facials and massages.

I choose the Angel in Gold Massage. My therapist, Alma, leads me into the treatment room and over the next hour uses Ayurvedic massage techniques. It’s like getting a facial from head to toe on my jet-lagged body. She applies a mixture of wood-scented essential oils and 24-carat gold flakes to waken my seven “energy centres” with her soothing, golden touch.

Les Terrasses d’Èze Spa, towering over the Mediterranean Sea below © Les Terrasses d’Èze Spa

Already missing Alma’s Midas touch but feeling energized, I hop on an e-bike. I cycled (aided by the push of a motor) along the hilly Cézanne trail to the studio of artist Paul Cézanne, Aix’s most famous citizen. I continue to the public garden, Terrain des Peintres, for views of Montagne Sainte-Victoire – one of Cézanne’s favourite landscapes to paint. Heading back into the historic centre, I make a pit stop at another Aix treasure – confectioner Le Roy René to buy calissons, a tasty, local candied fruit specialty dating back to the 15th century.

Aix-en-Provence is a city famous for its fountains

Along the southeastern coastline is France’s second largest city, Marseille, where I know my palate will be satiated with a multitude of cuisines and local dishes, including the dish that gave rise to Marseille’s culinary claim to fame – bouillabaisse.

Exploring the city streets, I pass North African neighbourhoods, laneways adorned with colourful graffiti and Roman ruins. My discoveries continue across the harbour dotted with fishing trawlers and yachts. I head to the Museum of Soap to take a class on DIY soap-making. Savon (soap) de Marseille is world famous for its purity and quality.

The Sofitel Spa offers a beautiful view of Marseille © Sofitel Marseille Spa

Ironically, it turns out making soap is sweaty work, prompting me to head to the Le Sofitel Spa for a thorough cleansing and massage, while enjoying the scenery of the Vieux Port. I begin my purification process with alternating sauna, hammam and HydroJet pool sessions, then surrender my body to the therapist’s warm hands for a 60-minute full body massage. Body cleansed, soapmaking muscles restored. Next, my mind.

In Old Nice, I pass by and see a sign boasting “Nice Seafood.” During my visit, I feel I could add so many other words after “Nice” – landscape, locals, cuisine, beach, museums and boutiques. Nice and the surrounding area offer a myriad of cultural activities and art museums, such as the Matisse and Marc Chagall Museums, street markets like Cour Saleya selling herbs and spices and all things Nice. A short drive between Nice and Monaco is the medieval village of Èze and Les Terrasses d'Èze Spa, towering over the Mediterranean Sea below.

Marseille organic handmade soap

Incorporating the latest in spa design and technology, I’m excited to try out the spa’s floating room. I get naked and lie in a capsule, filled with 25 centimetres of water, infused with Epsom salt and heated to 35 degrees Celsius. After 15 minutes, my body and mind turn to mush in the zero gravity environment. I can feel any remaining stress I had drain away. Relaxation continues with a Swedish style massage and is followed by a pleasurable circuit of treatments, including a Himalayan salt wall, four heat-experience rooms, including saunas, hammams and a tepidarium. I capped off my spa day in high-tech, sensory showers, featuring a rainbow of colours, aromas and water jets with various pressures and temperatures. It was more than ‘Nice.’

Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur’s beauty and vibrant culture makes quite an impression just as it did with painters like Van Gogh, Matisse and Cézanne, who showcased local scenes in their paintings. I left France feeling I had added a splash of wellness that coloured my world as I followed in the footsteps of these masters of art.