Emma Huckle - Bob Mackie FBUY2101

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Bob Mackie

Design & Innovation Emma Huckle

27/01/2025 Image 1&2 ( BBW, 2021)

Introduction to Bob Mackie

Over the past 6 decades, Bob Mackie has become one of the most prolific stylists and designers to the stars. Most well known for dressing Cher, his archival and vintage designs can be seen everywhere, notably adorned by Mylie Cyrus at the 2024 Grammys and Marilyn Monroe’s ‘Happy Birthday Mr President’ dress, re-worn by Kim Kardashian at the 2022 Met Gala.

The company’s last report revenue was $986,000, with head offices based in Midtown Manhattan close to Rockefeller Center (Rocketreach, 2024).

Started in 1960 as a novice designer at Paramount Studios.

Winner and nominee of many awards ranging from USA Academy Awards to Primetime Emmy, including the 1999 Winner of the Costume Designers Guild Awards (IMDB, 2019).

Called the ‘busiest 80-year-old on the planet’ by Vogue in 2019 (Borrelli-Persson, 2019).

Able to buy his ‘wearable art’ on his website or at resale.

Image 5 (Mackie, 2024)
Image 4 (Bailey, 2022)
Image 3 (Mackie 2, 2024)
Image 6 (Mackie 3, 2024)

SWOT

Strengths Weaknesses

Although recently in Vogue, not a current brand in pop culture and social media.

Extremely well-known designer name., with a strong association to Alisters and the celebrity world. Selling a wide variety of products (Clothing, watches, art and perfume. Regularly talked about in fashion media, more recently Vogue analysed his inspiration into Gen Z fashion (Allaire, 2024).

Lack of AI.

Expensive clothing resale, minimises potential customers for lack of accessibility, also no money coming into the business due to being sold on different sites.

Only 1 perfume size of 100ml.

No indication of perfume base (alcohol, oil or water).

Opportunities Threats

Investing more into the current perfume line, justified by the 2023 Global Beauty & Personal Care market worth $570bn, as well as growth in the Asian fragrance market (Walker-Smith, 2024). This particular market is $12.23bn, with steady annual growth (Statista, 2024).

Becoming more prominent in current pop culture, not just remembered for what he’s done, but what he’s doing.

Rental site to allow a wider customer base access to clothing, opposed to just having to buy singular items and justifying spending large amounts of money.

Lack of stock availability on website store, other option is buying on Amazon, depleting the luxury element.

No solid pricing structure on perfume, men’s products more expensive than women's, causing male shoppers to go elsewhere. Competitor fragrance brands are more up to date with marketing strategies, like using celebrities.

Lack of sustainability commitments, off putting to environmentallyconscious consumers,

Table 1 (Huckle, 2024)

Mean = £89.41

Mode = £100, followed by £80

Research results

Customers want aesthetically-pleasing bottles

Location mattersDuty Free and Department Stores

Doblin 10 analysis

Profit Model Network Structure Process

Product

Performance

Auctions (Julien’s

Auctions, 2024)

Premium Pricing

Barbie X Bob Mackie

‘Wearable Art’

Barbie X Bob Mackie

Cher Show licensing (BLG, 2024)

2024 ‘Naked Illusion’ documentary Kas Rugs (rugnews, 2013)

9 year Median Tenure on LinkedIn (Bob Mackie, 2025)

Small workforce situated in NY Mackie only ‘hire the best people possible’ (Getty, 2022)

Huge learning and teaching environment

Laggard in market with no recent developments Little to no process transparency

Very little published in sustainability

Simple bottles, could be easy to replicate No personalisation available in perfume

Channel

Product System Service Brand

Customer

Engagement

Social commerce and advertising through Instagram

Items sold via store are final, having to follow through email with issues. Recognition through

Brand extensions through Mattel

Value quality

Clothing seen throughout pop culture history

Lots of social media posts of celebrity looks. No online community as such for customers

Areas of Improvement Process

Addition of transparency in responsible sourcing and release of new products

Product Performance & System Customer Engagement

Addition of personalisation, accessibility, availability to bundle, more competitor differentiation and introduction of DPPs.

Addition of more assurance through purchase with perfume testers available and building of online community

Areas of Innovation

Idea 1 Idea 2

Redesigning the current perfume line and its respected marketing techniques

Swot opportunity 1 -

‘Investing more into the current perfume line...’

Superbowl 2025 cheerleader collaboration

Idea 3

Rental site collaboration with 1st Dibs

Swot opportunity 2 -

‘Becoming more prominent in current pop culture...’

Swot opportunity 3 -

‘Rental site to allow a wider customer base access to clothing...’

Idea 1 -

(Living Ink Tech, 2025) (WWF, 2020) (Tydings, 2018) (Kent, 2022)

Redesigning the current perfume line and its respected marketing techniques

Aligns with SWOT point to invest more into the perfume line

Recycled glass bottles.

Added skincare elements.

Use of VR pop-ups consisting of immersive boxes for users to enter.

Own survey results show duty-free and department stores are where consumers are most influenced to buy a new perfume

New product of a Mylo leather travel pouch and collaboration with Living Ink Technologies

Grooved shaped bottles for inclusivity and easy-handling.

Hashtag marketing #HappyinMackie for after purchase connections, staying associated with brand.

‘Top-spending clients will create 65-80% of global market growth through to 2027’Key insight from BoF ‘State of Fashion Luxury’

Even with China’s domestic luxury slowdown, the global luxury market is still expected to grow 2-4% per year for 2025-27 (BoF et al, 2025)

Bette Breeze

Bette Breeze
RougeRoad
RougeRoad

Smooth Umber

Smooth Umber ‘Blossom Flute’

Idea 2Superbowl 2025 cheerleader collaboration

Aligns with SWOT point concerning more visibility in social media and current pop culture

Regen Bio Spandex , a bio-based corn alternative to petroleum based traditional spandex (Hyosung, 2024) Radiant matter bio sequins used by Patrick McDowell and Stella McCartney (Radiant Matter, 2024)

The World’s first vegan made ostrich feathers by Ethical Plumes (Blue District, 2024)

(GoGreenNOLA, 2018)

(Freecycle.org, 2024)

Image 9 (New Orleans Saints, 2019)
(Healey, 2023)

MARDI GRAS INSPIRED

Idea 3Rental site with 1stDibs

Aligns with SWOT idea of making clothing more accessible to everyone

Rental site collaboration, pricing items between £15-120 per 24 hours.

Allows for lesser-income shoppers to still be able to wear the products on occasion.

Dedicated page to Bob Mackie’s history, items available for purchase and rental, as well as a rotating page of seasonal items.

Continued use of the #HappyInMackie trend, alongside the fragrances.

With the new ‘Rental’ tab, customers can go through ready-to-wear rental pieces, look through seasonal picks through ‘Coveted styles’, in this case a red focus for Valentines day, and also Bob Mackie’s own designer history.

Based on By Rotation’s rental prices of Oscar De La Renta, I would price Bob Mackie rentals between £15 to £120 a day, ranging from cocktail dresses and scarves to more highly embellished gowns (By Rotation, 2025)

Creating a new rental tab within ‘Purchase’ and ‘Make an offer’ to go into renta l info and prices

Bob Mackie Rentals
Renta

Summary

Focus on key brand weaknesses

Bring Bob Mackie back into the spotlight

Appealing to all generations

Chosen with deep environmental concerns

Alliance to United Nations Sustainable Development Goals

Only a starting point, so much more can be done from them

References

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Allaire (2024). With a New Documentary Out, Bob Mackie Talks Des gning for Cher, Inspiring Gen Z, and Starting the Naked Dress Trend. [online] Vogue. Available at https://www.vogue.com/article/bob-mackie-documentary-naked-illusiondesigner [Accessed 8 Dec. 2024].

Beddie (2013) Feeling For | A Travel-Size Fragrance Pouch in Monogrammed Leather. [online] T Magazine. Available at https://archive.nytimes.com/tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/07/30/feeling-for-a-trave -size-fragrance-pouch-inmonogrammed-leather/ [Accessed 21 Jan 2025]

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Borrelli-Persson (2019). ‘He’s a Genius, That’s All’ An Oral History of Bob Mackie. [online] Vogue. Ava lab e at: https://www.vogue.com/projects/13550961/bob-mackie-oral-history-cfda-lifetime-achievement-award-2019-carol-burnett-chertom-ford-rupaul [Accessed 1 Jan. 2025].

By Rotation (2025). Rent Oscar De La Renta By Rotation US. [online] Byrotation.com. Available at: https //byrotation.com/designers/oscar-de-la-renta?srsltid=AfmBOoqMPw88V vm5c3W69iohM2-ev-xGINR0u-GV5Zyx0jy952q7ae2 [Accessed 19 Jan 2025]

Esker, J (2022) How To Make Your Own Natura Perfume [on ine] The Peaceful Haven Available at: https://www thepeacefulhaven com/how-to-make-your-own-natural-perfume/ [Accessed 1 Jan 2025]

Freecyc e.org (2024). The Freecycle Network [online] www.freecycle.org. Available at: https://www.freecyc e.org/ [Accessed 31 Dec. 2024].

Getty (2022) Sabine Getty in conversation w th the legendary Bob Mackie on dressing Cher, Hollywood glamour and his tell-all book. [online] Tatler. Ava lable at: https://www.tat er.com/article/bob-mackie-the-art-of-bob-mackie-booknterview [Accessed 21 Jan. 2025].

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Mackie (2025) Bob Mackie Design Group LTD [on ine] L nkedIn Available at: https://www linkedin com/company/bob-mackie-design-group-ltd /about/ [Accessed 21 Jan 2025] Radiant Matter (2024). Radiant Matter. [online] Rad ant Matter. Available at: https://www.radiantmatter.co/ [Accessed 30 Dec. 2024]. Rugnews (2013). 112713 Kas and Bob Mackie in Licensing Agreement | News | Rug News [online] Rugnews.com Available at: https://www.rugnews.com/news-archives/112713-kas-and-bob-mack e-in-licensing-agreement-3036 [Accessed 1 Jan 2025].

Sage Brown (2022). Leather Lipstick Case - Navy. [onl ne] SageBrown. Available at: https //sagebrown.co.uk/products/leather-lipstick-case-navy [Accessed 21 Jan. 2025]. Statista (2024). Fragrances - Asia | Statista Market Forecast. [online] Statista. Available at: https://www statista.com/outlook/cmo/beauty-personal-care/fragrances/as a. Tydings, (2018) What are the major issues facing the fragrance market and how can we [online] Dalziel & Pow Available at: https://www dalziel-pow com/news/major-issues-facing-fragrance-industry [Accessed 22 Jan 2025]

United Nations (2024) The 17 Goals [on ine] The Globa Goals Available at: https://www globalgoals org/goals/ [Accessed 1 Jan 2025] Walker-Smith, D. (2024). Guest Lecture to De Montfort Un versity on the Luxury Market. WWF (2020). Recyc ing Glass - How it helps environment. [online] wwf.panda.org. Available at: https //wwf.panda.org/discover/knowledge hub/teacher resources/pro ect deas/recycling glass/ [Accessed 10 Jan. 2025].

Mood board References

Lebsack, L. (2019). Ha r Checks, Jiggle Tests, & Gaslighting — Is Pro Cheer eading Worth Sav ng? [online] Refinery29 com. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/nfl-cheerleader-controversy-abuse-lawsuits [Accessed 26 Dec. 2024]. Legendary Wa king Tours (2024). New Orleans Legendary Walking Tours. [online] New Orleans Legendary Walking Tours Available at: https://www.neworleanslegendarywalkingtours.com/ [Accessed 23 Dec. 2024].

Mackie (2024). Bob Mackie on Instagram: "@mileycyrus has purchased the dress she wore during her iconic performance at 66th Annual Grammy Awards 2024. Proceeds wil be donated to MusiCares. ‘As the designer of this dress, I couldn’t magine it on anyone else That girl was born to perform!’ Bob Mack e @juliens auct ons [online] Instagram Available at: https://www instagram com/p/DDX6QMgzaCF/ [Accessed 26 Dec 2024]

Mackie 2 (2024). Bob Mackie on Instagram: ‘Attention Los Angeles! #BobMackie will participate in a live Q&A next Wednesday, November 20, following the 7:10pm PST screening at the Laemmle NoHo. This is your chance to hear insights and stories from the legendary fashion and costume designer himself an event not to be missed!’ [online] Instagram. Available at: https //www.instagram com/p/DCUcj-uSNnM/ [Accessed 26 Dec 2024].

Mcconnaughey and Santana (2022) ‘I love Mardi Gras’: Carnival spirit takes over New Orleans. [online] AP News. Available at https //apnews.com/article/coronavirus-pandemic-health-lifestyle-new-orleans-parades57e161928d60c60f65252703ad4df375 [Accessed 23 Dec. 2024]

Meagan (2016). Top 9 Hip Hop Dance Costume Trends. Google com. [online] doi:https://doi.org/10010766/1569578942539

Peop eImages (2018) Shot of samba dancers performing in a carnival [on ine] Stock Available at https://www istockphoto com/photo/sway-your-body-to-the-samba-beats-gm1010491802-272341781 [Accessed 23 Dec 2024]

Poleon, J (2024) This Historic City Is America’s ‘South Of France’ [online] TheTravel Available at: https://www thetravel com/historic-city-is-americas-south-of-france/ [Accessed 23 Dec 2024]

Ron (2020). Beads, Costumes, Floats: How To Conquer Your First Mardi Gras New Orleans. [online] Red P ll Rebel ion. Available at: https //www.redpillrebellion.com/mardi-gras-new-orleans/ [Accessed 23 Dec. 2024].

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Image References

1stDibs (2017). 1stDibs. [onl ne] 1stdibs.com. Available at: https://www.1stdibs.com/?gad source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQ A7se8BhCAARIsAKnF3rxYjlw83NP7UOFPOpThHZO8uDF4END-p6Ij3XEX1mAEnT879sT7YNQaAgbSEALw wcB [Accessed 23 Jan. 2025].

Anuket Luxury (2023) The Difference Between Fragrance Oils, Perfume, Eau de Toilette, & Cologne [onl ne] Anuket Luxury Apothecary Available at: https://anuket uxury com/blogs/from-our-founder/the-difference-between-fragrance-oilsperfume-eau-de-toilette-cologne-and-more [Accessed 23 Jan 2025]

Bailey, A. (2022) Bob Mackie, the Designer Behind Marilyn Monroe’s Dress, Says Kim Kardashian Wearing It ‘Was a Big Mistake’. [online] ELLE. Available at: https://www.e le.com/culture/ce ebr t es/a40034024/bob-mackie-kim-kardashianmarilyn-monroe-dress-wearing-react on/ [Accessed 19 Jan. 2025].

Bobrow, E. (2021). Costume Des gner Bob Mackie Made the Stars Gl tter. [online] WSJ. Available at: https //www.wsj.com/articles/costume-designer-bob-mackie-made-the-stars-glitter-11636737648 [Accessed 19 Jan. 2025].

BWW, T. (2021). Photos Preview 20 Iconic Designs from THE ART OF BOB MACKIE- Avai able Now! [online] BroadwayWorld.com. Available at: https://www.broadwayworld com/article/Photos-Preview-20-Iconic-Designs-from-THE-ART-OFBOB-MACKIE--Avai able-Now-20211214 [Accessed 19 Jan. 2025].

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