El Ojo del Mar by Roberto Rojas

Saw you in the Ojo

FEATURE ARTICLES

COVER STORY

Herbert Piekow writes about Mexico’s third gender as this exotic breed of human being is found in and around Oaxaca.

COVER STORY

Index...

VOLUME 1 NUMBER 8  D IR EC T OR Y  PUBLISHER Richard Tingen

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alejandro Grattan-Domínguez

8 11 SEDUCTIVE MEXICO

Cover by Dani Newcomb

William Haydon has found his own little haven in the quaint village of San Blas—from which he does not plan to leave any time soon.

12 EVOLUTION (sort of) Ed Tasca has his own theory about evolution and while it might not be a scientific break-through, it is much funnier than anything Darwin ever wrote!

13 BOOK REVIEW Jim Tipton reviews Bob Drynan’s new historical novel, What Price Liberty, and finds that it presents an absolutely frightening picture of a world overcome by the maggots of corruption, deceit and cynicism.

14 TRAVEL Robert Brittingham takes us on an enchanting tour of Morelia, Patzcuaro and Uruapan, three of Mexico’s most colorful cities.

20 MEXICAN HISTORY Mildred Boyd reflects on why in all of Mexico, there is not a single statue of, or even a street or village named after Hernan Cortes, one of the most compelling figures in Mexican history. Some of the delivery points in Mazatlan where you can find our magazine are listed below. If you are aware of other locations that would make good delivery points, drop us a note at info@elojodelmar.com and we will ensure they are stocked with magazines. Heather’s Place, Las Gavias Office, Panama Restaurant, Applebee’s, Intercam, Estrella Del Mar Office, Peninsula Office, Impulsa Office, Remax Sunset Eagle Offices, Various Shops, Hotels and Offices along Camaron Sabalo. Furniture stores on Av. Dr. Carlos Canseco, Hotels and Condos along Sabalo Cerritos. Hotels, Restaurants and Shops on Av. Playa Gaviotas, Hotels and Coffee Shops along Malecon, Boardwalk Residences Office, Paradise Bay Grand Office, Cava Del Duero. Plaza Machado cafes, Brewer Sports Bar, Mazatlan Property Group Office, Casa Etnika, Olas Altas Steak House, The Shrimp Bucket, Puerto Viejo Bar. Estrella Del Mar Club House, La Gran Plaza shops, La Marina Plaza and other small plazas in Marina area.

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

Tel: 01-800-765-3788 Associate Publisher David Tingen Director of Marketing Bruce Fraser Graphic Design Roberto C. Rojas Jazmin Eliosa Associate Editor Jim Tipton Contributing Editors Paul Jackson Henri Loridans Feature Editor Jim Tuck (Honorary) Staff Photographer Xill Fessenden Staff Writers Mildred Boyd Ilse Hoffmann Floyd Dalton Fred C. Dobbs Sales Manager Bruce Fraser 333 559 2046 info@elojodelmar.com Office Secretary Iliana Oregel

ADVERTISING OFFICE Calle Niza #152, Puerto Vallarta Send all correspondence, subscriptions or advertising to: El Ojo del Mar http://www.elojodelmar.com info@elojodelmar.com Ave. Hidalgo 223 (or Apartado 279), 45900 Chapala, Jalisco Tels.: (376) 765 3676, Fax 765 3528 PRINTING: Quadrimag S.A. de C.V. El Ojo del Mar aparece los primeros cinco días de cada mes. (Out over the first five days of each month) Certificado de Licitud de Título 3693 Certificado de Licitud de Contenido 3117. Reserva al Título de Derechos de Autor 04-2007-111412131300-102 Control 14301. Permisos otorgados por la Secretaría de Gobernación (EXP. 1/432 “88”/5651 de 2 de junio de 1993) y SEP (Reserva 171.94 control 14301) del 15 de enero de 1994. Distribución: Calle Niza #152, Puerto Vallarta All contents are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without the written consent of El Ojo del Mar. Opinions expressed by the authors do not necessarily reflect the views of the Publisher or the Editor, nor are we responsible for the claims made by our advertisers. We welcome letters, which should include name, address and telephone number.

By Alejandro Grattan-Dominguez

Among the Greatest Men of the 20th Century

(

ote: Though this article was written several years ago, Nelson Mandela is in the news again because of the new Clint Eastwood movie, Invictus, which stars Morgan Freeman as Mandela and Matt Damon as a star player on South Africa’s Olympic soccer team. The film has garnered glowing reviews all over the world and Freeman is considered a near-certainty to be nominated yet again presidency himself in a landslide for an Oscar.) vote, Mandela’s first official act was Toward the end of the last specto make de Klerk his deputy presitacular century, polls indicated that dent! people were almost evenly divided The world watched, enthralled as to who had been the “greatest by the noble actions of what was man of the 20th century,” Winston obviously an inspired political leadChurchill or Franklin D. Roosevelt. er. But how had it happened? How My vote would have been for could an impoverished, poorlyFDR, mainly because his achieveeducated black man spend more ments were two-fold: first, in guidthan two and a half decades in a 7 ing his country through its most catby 9 foot cell, and somehow emerge astrophic economic depression, and the brilliant leader South Africa had then leading the Allies to victory in been awaiting for a hundred years? the largest, most Mandela has ofalong ten shared some savage war in all of Somewhere recorded history. the line, he likewise of the secret. “I left My personal prison more in20th century hero, learned humility, as formed than when however, is a mod- well as the true mean- I went in. And the est, soft-spoken more informed you man who still walks ing of compassion. In are, the less arrogant among us, a giant daring not to hate his and aggressive you among men who enemies, he eventual- become.” In prison, after having been he devoured books imprisoned for 27 ly would disarm them. because he knew years in rabidly racthat freedom’s most ist South Africa, later became presipowerful weapon is knowledge. dent of that same (!) country, then Mandela also learned the subunited it in a way that had never lime art of how to defeat his oppobeen done before. That man is Nelnents without dishonoring them. son Mandela. Somewhere along the line, he likeHowever, this incredible accomwise learned humility, as well as plishment is only part of the story. the true meaning of compassion. In Soon after leaving prison a free daring not to hate his enemies, he man, Mandela joined with the white eventually would disarm them. leaders of South Africa in a heroic On the day he finally was released effort to stave off full-scale civil war. from prison, he asked that some of For their efforts, he and President his white captors gather at the gate, de Klerk were awarded the Nobel so he could thank them for the small Peace Prize. kindnesses they had shown him over Then, after being swept into the the years. Ever modest, he thought

there might be but a handful of guards there to say goodbye to him; instead the entire corps of prison personnel were there that morning to wish him well—and just past the gate were tens of thousands of his countrymen, and newsreel cameras from all around the world. Yet, despite the tumultuous reception, what very few suspected— perhaps least of all Mandela himself—was that his march toward the pantheon of the 20th century’s greatest leaders was about to begin.

ALEJANDRO GRATTAN is a former screenwriter/film director who has published seven novels. Two of his novels are in over 1000 libraries in the US and Canada. He co-founded the Ajijic Writers’ Group 21 years ago and has been the Editor of El Ojo del Lago for the past 14 years. grattan@prodigy.net.mx

Saw you in the Ojo

A BALLOON IN CACTUS By Maggie Van Ostrand maggie@maggievanostrand.com www.maggievanostrand.com Joaquin Murrieta —Robin Hood or Just Plain Hood?

verything about Joaquin Murrieta is disputed. He was either the Mexican Robin Hood or the El Dorado Robin Hood. He was either an infamous bandito or a Mexican patriot. He was born in either Alamos or Trincheras, in either Sonora, Mexico or Quillota, Chile. He was either descended from Cherokee ancestors who migrated to Chile in the late 18th century, or a noble Spanish landowner. He either sympathized with Native Americans or with Mexicans. An undisputed truth about

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

Joaquin Murrieta is that he was born in 1829 and made his way to California in 1850, seeking to mine for gold. Legend says that he, his wife and his brother were attacked by American miners who envied his success and hated Mexicans. Talk about sore losers, they not only raped his wife, one dollar each. (Note: The jar was they hanged his brother, and horselost in the 1906 San Francisco earthwhipped the innocent Joaquin to a quake.) bloody pulp. A year after the head and the Murrieta tried to do the right hand event, legends about Murrieta thing and sought redress in the began in earnest with San Francisco California courts, but was thwarted newspapers and even a book tellbecause Mexicans were prohibing the story which had unleashed ited from testifythe fury of Five ing against “white” Talk about sore losers, Joaquins and a Garthey not only raped cia in their quest for men. Seeking ven- his wife, they hanged revenge. geance outside History and legthe law, Murrieta his brother, and horse- end ultimately came formed a gang, whipped the innocent together creating hunting down and Murrieta’s posthukilling six culprits. Joaquin to a bloody mous reputation His outlaw band pulp. as a Robin Hood was named The Five fiercely avenging Joaquins: Joaquin Botellier, Joaquin injustices against Mexicans. Carrillo, Joaquin Ocomoreniaq, His legendary life has been the Joaquin Valenzuela and Joaquin subject of songs, novels, plays, and Murrieta. There was a sixth memeven the first Russian rock opera. ber, Manuel Garcia, affectionately Murrieta’s story can also be seen in dubbed Three-Fingered Jack. motion pictures like The Robin Hood In the Sierra Nevadas, they rusof El Dorado and The Mask of Zorro. tled cattle and horses, robbed banks, Not a bad legacy for a man about and murdered no fewer than 19 whom so many facts are disputed. men. California governor, John Bigler, got plenty mad about this and created the California State Rangers, led by Captain Love, who had the task of finding the gang for a paltry $150 per month. A bounty of $5,000 was offered for Murrieta. On July 25, 1853, an encounter between the Rangers and the gang ensued, killing Murrieta himself, and Three Fingered Jack. The Rangers MAGGIE VAN OSmust’ve been pretty bloodthirsty, TRAND is a humorist, because they stuck Garcia’s threespeaker, ghostwriter and fingered hand and Joaquin Murstand-up comedienne. rieta’s head in a big jar filled with brandy to preserve their trophies. They displayed the jar over Northern California, spectators paying

FROM MY TROPICAL DECK CHAIR By Consuelo

or ten years, I carried a photo of James Joyce that was the featured image in a one-column vertical New Yorker ad for Ex Libris. Ex Libris, a printon-demand publisher. The headline was, “This man was self-published”. Greatly encouraging to those of us who may have to or choose to selfpublish our novels. My last novel was self-published, and, even though it is nowadays more and more perfectly respectable to use Ex Libris, Book Surge, or the like to see your work in print -- a creation that is a labor of love, trust, and damn - it - to - H-E-L-L - double - toothpicks frustration lasting up to ten years and more -- I still feel that a first-rate book should be able to find an agent and an above-ground publisher. Ok. I am old fashioned. Old fashioned in so many ways. This morning I told the guy I have liked for a year that he needs to ask me for coffee, because the guy has to ask the girl to dance. Though I have sent him many signals, and have even resorted to shameless flirting whenever I see him, he just wasn’t gettin’ it by extrasensory perception. Furthermore, on the subject of what I would like the fate of my novel to be, I think that if I do create an interesting, intriguing, well-written book, it will capture not just the attentions of an agent and a proper publisher, but also will bring about the manifestation of my dearest fantasy -- that I will one day be sitting on an airplane, riding a bus, sailing the ocean blue and in a nearby seat some woman or man will be reading my book. I glance over, and find them smiling, nodding their head, laughing. Because the saddest, most tragic things can also be the most comical, if you look at them right. Here is a sad, tragic thing, just one example of what I am talking about. In order to find an agent and publisher for my novel, I have to write it first. Dorothy Parker said she wanted not

so much to write as to “have written”. I reached the conclusion of chapter 18 over a month ago. I am the person planning the Puerto Vallarta Writer’s Group roundtable discussion on the first Saturday in March. My topic? How to write anything, any time, anywhere. Hmm. So where is chapter 19? What is the holdup? I’ve been busy. I’ve had company. I am trying some new recipes. I rearranged all the furniture. If you are a writer, you probably recognize these as dodges, excuses. When I tell someone I am walking with that I walk slowly because I am afraid of falling on my face again, and I want to watch for hazards on the

Though I have sent him many signals, and have even resorted to shameless flirting whenever I see him, he just wasn’t gettin’ it by extrasensory perception. crooked sidewalks, and keep my balance on the cobblestones, and that person says, “Oh, that is a good excuse”, I am most annoyed. Do I need an excuse for being who I am, liking what I like, needing what I need? No. And I surely have no need of a handful of excuses for why I have not been bearing down on this chapter so I can get on with the rest of the book. I just haven’t. My new character for chapter nineteen, in the meantime, is coming to me in bits and pieces. I’ve kind of got him, kind of don’t. I catch glimpses of him in other people’s voices, hear what he might say in conversations upon which I stealthily eavesdrop. I am about ready now. And just to sweeten the ordeal, this

morning I started chapter twenty. Last week I opened a file for the epilogue. It helps to get where you are going if you know specifically where that endpoint might be located. Another writer once said that writing a book is a case of going down blind alleys to see that they are blind. sometimes it takes so long to manifest whatever it is you are looking for, you forgot you were seeking it. I found a gorgeous red suitcase beside the trash at the condo, in perfect brand new shape. I happened to want and need a red suitcase forever. I found dried eucalyptus at Parisina, the big fabric store on Juarez in Puerto Vallarta. I bought it all. Two dried vine baskets for hanging plants appeared at the plant alley on Cardenas, and I bought those, too. Now I have to kind of watch out for the rest of the month, stop buying beach jewelry. Who me, stop? Stay home and write? Ok, not tomorrow, tomorrow the gang is going to Quimixto. Not Wednesday, Wednesday is sketch class. Thursday. Thursday for sure. Think nice thoughts. website: santafekitchenstudio.com blog: http://outofthearmchair.wordpress.com paintings can be seen in Puerto Vallarta at Galeria International on Morelos and in the Marina.

“CONSUELO” lives in Puerto Vallarta. Originally from Santa Fe, NM, she is a painter, writer and seasoned world-traveler. jart@live. com santafekitchenstudio.com

Saw you in the Ojo

Mexico’s Third Gender By Herbert W. Piekow

he first time I went to the Oaxacan town of Juchitán I observed a group of soccer players with their skirts hiked up, playing hard against a team of men in tight shorts. I watched as the men’s team raced across the field when one of the ladies managed to intercept a pass and sent the ball to a teammate who made a goal. When the girls began to call to one another

I realized they were men dressed as women. Later on this trip I heard the legend of San Vincente Ferrer, the patron saint of Juchitán, which says that the good Father Ferrer received a bag full of homosexuals from God. These homosexuals were to be distributed throughout Mexico, one in each town. However, when Father Ferrer stopped to say Mass in Juchitán the muxes became so exuberant that they all burst from the sac. Each November the city of Juchi-

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

tán honors the muxes with a special on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec is Mass followed by the festival, La Vela strongly rooted in both the two de las Auténticas Intrépidas Buscathousand year old Zapotecan culture doras del Peligro, or Festival of the and the Catholic Church. Authentic, Intrepid Danger Seekers. In a society where virginity is Last November Padre Francisco said prized it is not uncommon for a man in his sermon, “The Church someto have a muxe boyfriend for sexual times doesn’t want to talk about hopurposes and later marry a woman mosexuality. But this is our church, by whom he can have children. And our town.” The sermon ended with it is not a surprise that his wife go to the grito, “Viva the muxe for sexual Juchitán! Viva San When the muxe and tips. When the muxe Vincente Ferrer!” Faand her macho or ther Francisco rec- her macho or male love male love live toognizes and accepts live together as sexual gether as sexual that the muxes are a partners, known as partners, known as point of difference, mayate, the macho the macho man is not considbut also a point mayate, of pride. He offers man is not considered ered a homosexual. communion to all, In Mexico the space no matter how they a homosexual. between acceptance dress or how they and intolerance can live their lives. be as close as the campo, where gayMuxe (pronounced “moo-she), is a bashing is not uncommon, and the Zapotec word, which means woman. city, where same-sex relationships This Zapotecan word is used to deare accepted. scribe what many in the State of OaxThe third sex, as they are someaca consider the third sex. Muxe is the times referred to, holds both a social name given to men who choose to and financial position in the commulive their lives as women; most dress nities of Oaxaca. Often they are ownas women and many hold traditional ers of small businesses, such as beaufemale jobs, although some often ty shops, weaving establishments or hold corporate and political jobs. a variety of tiendas that cater to the Although sexual orientation is needs of their communities. nothing new to society the respect During my research I read that and honored treatment of the muxe Juchitán’s market is one of the best

places to experience the mingling of muxe with the community. There the muxes, many with silk ribbons in their hair, call out to passers-by to sample their foods, buy flowers and other wares. Perhaps the acceptance of the muxes occurred because of the relative isolation of the isthmus and the acknowledged strength of the local women. Frida Kahlo so admired these women that she often adopted their style of dress. Oaxaca is famous for its indigenous people, black pottery, cuisine

dancing to sandunga and salsa music until someone is crowned queen. On the second night of the party, which is called “Cleaning of the Pot,” the muxe dress modestly, “like our mothers and grandmothers,” as one said. Again the party lasts most of the night until the beer gets warm and these “women-spirits who live in men’s bodies” stumble home to their mothers’ houses. Most people of Oaxaca believe their gender is something God has given them, whether man, woman

and the muxes. The town of Juchitán is the center of muxe acceptance; it is in the southern part of the Isthmus in the middle of the south of Mexico. The muxes in Juchitán cultivate and promote the aesthetics of everyday life in the town and countryside. They are the ones who decide on the fashions, they take charge of decorating for parties with paper cutouts, they are also experts at cooking regional foods and candies and even teach many of the dances. When a Oaxacan woman wants to look good she consults a muxe friend for advice on dress, hair style and make-up; in fact most hair salons in Juchitán are owned by muxes. When it’s time for a party they are the go-to people. Each November the muxes celebrate with a special Mass followed by two days and nights of festivities. For “The Party of the Authentic Intrepid Ones who Search for Danger,” like most adolescents, they are taken to the festival on the arm of an older brother or father. On the first night the participants dress provocatively showing off their curves and legs. They spend the night drinking and

or muxe. In Juchitán the belief is that boys are born facing up and girls are born facing down. Therefore when a boy is born facing down his mother feels blessed that she will be taken care of throughout her life by her muxe child. Traditionally women marry and move with their spouses, and although sons often take care of aging parents, it is the muxe who often provide financial and emotional support throughout their mother’s lives. Every family considers it a blessing to have a muxe. It could be they are accepted because Oaxaca is a matriarchal society; whatever the reason, tolerance and acceptance are virtues that slowly spread and foster a loving and complete society.

HERBERT W. PIEKOW lives in Guadalajara. He has enjoyed two careers, first as a vice president of an international trading company, and later providing floral displays for the Academy Awards.

Saw you in the Ojo

BRIDGE BY THE SEA By Ken Masson masson.ken@gmail.com

s in all walks of life, some bridge players are aggressive by nature while others are more cautious and conservative. It was the misfortune of herself and myself, sitting East and West, to be playing against two of the latter when this deal came up at a matchpoint duplicate event (in Toronto, I might add – no local players could ever be accused of being timid!) As dealer North chose to pass with a hand that many would have opened. Though one point shy of the traditional minimum for opening in first or second seat, the hand does have 2-½ quick tricks and

there is usually an advantage to the side that can make the first call on any deal. East passed and South began proceedings with a bid of 1 heart. West passed and North responded 2 clubs, the Drury Convention promising at least 3 hearts and close to an opening bid. Drury is used only by hands that have passed in first or second position when their partner has opened the bidding in a major suit. The reason the Convention came into vogue was that many players

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

open on the light side in third seat and if their partner were to jump to the three level to show a limit raise, the partnership could be too high. In the illustrated deal, South decided that, facing a first seat passed hand, game was unlikely and so rebid 2 hearts to show a borderline opening hand in context with no interest in going any further. This form of the convention is actually called Reverse Drury, as in its original conception 2 diamonds was used by opener to show a minimum. North saw no reason to disobey South’s wishes so the partnership had managed to stop at the 2 level with 25 high card points and a 5-3 heart fit! West led the singleton diamond which was won in hand by declarer who played a low heart towards the dummy and put in the Queen as East followed with the Jack. A small club was led from dummy to declarer’s Queen and West’s King. West switched to a spade which was won in dummy with the Ace

as East encouraged with the 10. When South now called for a heart from the dummy and East showed out, declarer had to lose 3 trump tricks, to go with the King of Clubs and the King of spades – 2 hearts just making! Just another bottom board for herself and myself who once again suffered the slings and arrows of outrageous bridge fortune. Maybe it’s time to take up tiddlywinks! Questions or comments: email: masson.ken@gmail.com

KEN MASSON has been playing, teaching and writing about bridge for 35 years. Originally from Dublin, Ireland, Ken has been living in Toronto since 1967. He and his wife and bridge partner, Rosemarie, are now in their third year wintering in Mexico.

Seductive San Blas By William Haydon wshaydon@yahoo.com

y third week in San Blas has been every bit as seductive as were the

actually imagine, in the most vivid and plausible manner, that my body is being healed by its potent, salty first two. brine. My senses are engaged, on a daily I eat foods that are always lovingly basis, to a point that nearly qualifies prepared, and with fresh local ingreas assault. dients like seafood, tomatoes, pepI take boat rides through the pers, onions, avocados, and limes, all overgrown corridors of a vast estuthe while eschewing completely the ary/swamp that is densely populated fast food, frozen and canned foods, by more varieties of and fatty, salty junk exotic birds than I I live in a culture where foods that I must can possibly count. constitutthe passion, like the confess I have frequent ed far too much of encounters with humidity, is ever-pres- my diet back in the all sorts of animals, ent Not surprisand all-encom- States. ranging from the ingly, everything common (dogs and passing. tastes better here. cats, horses and I hear music evchickens) to the exotic (crocodiles, erywhere I go, oftentimes real and octhe profusion of birds for which San casionally imaginary, and the sound Blas is famous, giant iguanas like the of fireworks, and crashing waves, and children’s laughter. I sleep with the soundness of one who has been enticed, of his own free will, to engage more fully in the preceding day’s activities and to tax his limitations more completely than he ever could or would have done under duress or coercion. That’s the world I’m now experiencing on a daily basis. This is the place which I now call home. I live in a culture where the passion, like the humidity, is ever-present and all-encompassing. I know already that regardless of how long I stay here, this town and indeed Mexico itself, will always be a one who came charging down the part of me. sidewalk at me one day while I was walking to the bank.) I feel sunlight, constant and nurturing and warm. I think of the title of one of my favorite cd’s, Devendra WILLIAM HAYDON says Banhart’s “Rejoicing in the Hands of he is another disgruntled the Golden Empress” and suddenly American seeking solace I realize that this is exactly what he south of the border. He was talking about: the Golden Emhas lived in Europe, worked in press is the Sun. Hollywood, and now resides in I bask—and that is precisely the the pleasantly funky village of San right word to use, in the warmest Blas with his two cats. ocean I’ve ever enjoyed, and I can

Saw you in the Ojo

EVOLUTION—Bah, E VOLUTION—Bah, H Humbug! umbug! By Ed Tasca

m I the only one who thinks evolution has stopped? I remember when we said people we hated were behaving like animals. We don’t say that any more. Because animals these days are really a lot nicer than we are. Has an ape ever broken into your home and stolen your stereo equipment? Have you ever seen an obese ape? Have you ever seen an ape with a gun? I’ll bet there’s never been an ape who had a colonoscopy. Or needed one. And we call them Lower Life Forms. They mind their own business. They know when they’ve had enough. They don’t think opossum are going to hell because they sleep upside down. They make no judgments about anything, except how to survive. We think we evolved because we got rid of our tail and those pointy ears. Is that evolving? I think a tail might be a neat thing to have. There’d be a lot more Olympic events if we had tails. And pointed ears! What was wrong with pointed ears? Everybody liked Mr. Spock! And did you notice when we split off from the apes, they never once complained. Can you blame them?

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

All we did was complain. You smell. ter Cronkite. Now, we have reality TV. You have lice. You grab yourself in Who are these people? Why are they public. You screech with your mouth on television? All they do is behave full. How long can you stand that, bebadly. And we watch them. Is that fore you say, hey, why don’t you go where we’re evolving? live in a cave! I thought Australopithecus was a And we did. We pretty nice bunch of lived in caves for Yeah, we put on fancy people. They were thousands of years. clothes. But does that happy living simple Segregated ourlives on the savanselves from all the make us evolved? I nah. Maybe their other animals. And don’t think so. personal hygiene what did we do? We left something to spent all our time drawing pictures be desired, but they didn’t seem to of them on the walls. Homo sapiens. mind. And what did we do? We killed Who gave us that name? We did. them off and invented deodorant. I Yeah, we’re so smart, we figured out don’t see how that makes us so suhow to blow up the entire planet by perior. That just makes us nasty creapushing a button. tures, and we’re still nasty. It’s in our And what’s the deal with the genes. fancy clothes. Yeah, we put on fancy clothes. But does that make us evolved? I don’t think so. What about that Otsi guy, that frozen guy they ED TASCA’S novel found in the Alps a few years ago. The Fishing Trip That He was 5,000 years old. He had ItalGot Away was recently ian shoes on. And probably the latest published by the Rosein Italian fashion, if you like wearing heart Publishing Company. Ed’s grass held together with tree sap. an award-winning humor writer So I don’t see where anything has (winner in the prestigious Robert changed. Benchley Society Humor-writing I think evolution is going into reAward three years in a row--judged verse. You can tell that just by lookby Dave Barry). Also winner of huing at television. morpress.com awards and the I remember television shows 2008 winner of M. Culbertson’s when they had smart guys on them. Life and Humor Award. gonkies@ Dick Cavett, William F. Buckley. Walyahoo.com

What Price Liberty By Robert Bruce Drynan Available from Amazon.com Reviewed by James Tipton

obert Bruce Drynan’s new Domain of the Scorpion. In What novel, What Price Liberty, Price Liberty we also meet again is about those sacred Jackson’s buddy, the now soonwords, “Duty, Honor, Country” (the to-be-retired Master Gunnery motto of the United States Military Sergeant Stefan Varek, who in Academy). Domain of the Scorpion together In his afterword the author tells us with two American civilians had that “I wanted the five protagonists thwarted the efforts of a renof this novel to represent the best in egade US Colonel and a corrupt us, our noblest men and women, our CIA officer to give surface-tobest and brightest. The antagonists air missiles to the Colombian drug represent the dark side, the internal lords. threats among us; those who put on In What Price Liberty we again find the uniform of service with the certhose two fine marines working to tainty that they would not be asked protect the military interests of the to bear the burdens of that service.” United States but also working to The novel itself is based upon the bring to justice those who had no actual unprovoked attack on the USS noble ideas of “Duty, Honor, CounLiberty that occurred on June 8, 1967, try”. while it was stationed (unarmed and Two interesting women are also easily identifiable) in the eastern drawn into the action. They add Mediterranean. It is romance to this also about the cov- “Why had Israeli pilots action-filled novel. er-up that began and gunboats know- Angela Horvath is immediately after the widow of Ben’s the attack. The at- ingly attacked their best friend Carl Hortack left two-thirds only ally in the Middle vath who died on of the crew woundthe USS Liberty, and East?” ed or dead. Israel Rachel Horowitz is quickly acknowledged that they Ben’s half sister, a university profeswere responsible and that it was a sor who is, like Ben, a linguist. (The horrible accident, but documents author himself, incidentally, was a and tapes later surfaced that made linguist for the Army Security Agency it clear that it was far more complex in Germany.) than that, that it had been planned Following the surprise attack, Ben and executed with other purposes in stood on deck and “stared at the quimind, by conspirators near the very et night sea,” pondering the essential top of the American government. question of the novel: “Why had IsThe two principle protagonists, raeli pilots and gunboats knowingly Petty Officer Ben Coulter and reattacked their only ally in the middle cently disabled Lieutenant Colonel east?” Thomas Jackson, are determined to In the Author’s Note, Drynan expose the truth behind the attack writes that “Considering the lengths but must fight for their lives as those that the US government has gone behind the attack conspire to kill to destroy evidence and records, to them and any other person who has silence witnesses, continuing even any knowledge whatsoever of what to this day, also argues that the inireally happened. Ben is a communitiative leading to the event did not cations specialist and a linguist, and come solely from the State of Israel.” he was on board the USS Liberty durA Deputy Assistant Director for ing the attack. Middle Eastern Operations confides We have met Colonel Jackson to Colonel Jackson: “You can’t posbefore, in Drynan’s previous novel, sibly imagine how much cynicism,

how much corruption there is in the upper echelons of the military and our government. These people are terrified of an honorable man.” What Price Glory is a novel, a work of fiction, but the attack was real, the cover-up was real, the public personalities—President Lyndon Johnson, Robert Kennedy, Curtis LeMay, Larry Geis, General Lyman Lemnitzer, Robert McNamara, James Angleton— were real. This is a frightening novel. It is about what happens when men of honor must confront men in power who have authority over them and who themselves have no honor and no shame. One of those honorable men who confronts the “dangerous fringe” that has risen to power is told that he is “in the thick of battle on your country’s behalf.” One of the comments on the back cover tells us a lot about the author, Robert Bruce Drynan: “A dedicated advocate for American servicemen and women, his novel seethes with anger at those who would exploit their sacrifices for a personal agenda or private gain.” We need more novels like this one. JIM TIPTON has published several books of poetry and has sold dozens of articles to magazines in the US. His collections of poetry include Letters from a Stranger (1998)— winner of the Colorado Book Award in Poetry. Jim lived in Puerto Vallarta for several years. spiritofmexico@yahoo.com

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MORELIA, PATZCUARO, URUAPAN! By Robert Brittingham

arlier this season we granite rocks form the walls, and joined 20+ travelers to hanging inverted patio umbrellas experience our third trip trimmed with fine lace. to Mexico’s beautiful and splendid The next day consisted of visiting interior - the state of Michoacán the highlights of the city then shopand, initially, the magnificent city ping at Casa de las Artesanias. Eveof Morelia. nings we joined at San Migueletos, Morelia is considered to be the famous for Mexican cuisine and a most noble of all Mexican Colonial whimsical decor replete with Michotowns. The architecture has been acán crafts, antiques, paintings. This is kept in the tradition of old Spain. a fun restaurant where every table has The Cathedral by the main plaza is a different design and setting. One of constructed of pinkish stone and the dining rooms called “El Cuarto de dominates all surrounding buildings las Solteronas “ The Spinster’s Corner” with its 200 ft. towis decorated with dancers wear 365 distinct statues ers, which took over The 200 years to build. wooden masks that of St. Anthony set Another significant upside down. The landmark is the mas- depict smiling old men belief is that if you sive and yet elegant to show that, at least in stand this saint on aqueduct built in his head and pray 1790 with more Mexico, old age is not a really hard, you’ll get than 250 arches. As time of listless despair, a husband! it should be at the Morelia but rather a season to theLeaving capital city of Michofollowing day acán, the handicraft enjoy the fruits of life. on our way to Patzcactivity is predomiuaro, we stopped nant, mainly wood-carvings, pottery, briefly in the village of Tzintzuntzan copper, lacquerware, and woven to visit an ongoing bazaar and then goods. on to Ranchero La Mesa, located on On the first evening we dined at the San Jose Plateau and surrounded Los Mirasoles, a nicely renovated, by a forest of pine, willow, and oyavant-garde space in a 17th century amel trees (a fir tree sometimes called house with an aristocratic aura, decoSacred Fir due to the use of its cut forated with furnishings that evidence liage in religious festivals in Mexico) the craftsmanship of the area - large coupled with a magnificent view of Patzcuaro. The outdoor restaurantbar served delicious dishes including ostrich, which is raised at the Ranchero. On the way down from the plateau we stopped in Santa Clara del Cobre to visit a copper factory where we saw a demonstration at the copper foundry of pots/pans/etc. being formed. I noticed the foundry foreman had a sling/cast on his left arm. When I asked how many injuries occur in the foundry he said very few to none during his 15+ years. Asked what happened to his arm, he sheepishly admitted he‘d been trimming a large tree in the courtyard and fell out of the tree.

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

Finally arriving in Pátzcuaro we checked into the hotel, then toured the tienda being setup in the main square. Pátzcuaro is hidden high in the mountains of Michoacán at 7130 feet of elevation. To the north is Lake Pátzcuaro, one of Mexico’s highest lakes. The butterfly fishermen, who dip their nets into the lake in search of whitefish, have become a trademark of Pátzcuaro. The Dance of the Viejitos (Old Men), one of the best and most widely known native dances of Mexico, is presented in the Plaza Grande on weekends. The dancers wear wooden masks that depict smiling old men to show that, at least in Mexico, old age is not a time of listless despair, but rather a season to enjoy the fruits of life. On day five, we departed to Uruapan, a city and municipality in the west-central part of the Mexican state of Michoacán. The town and surroundings are world famous in part because of the great quantity of avocado farming and packaging, exported in large part to the United States and other countries. Uruapan is one of the oldest cities in Mexico. Its main natural attraction is the Cupatitzio River (dubbed “the river that sings”). The National Park Eduardo Ruiz is home of “La Rodilla del Diablo,” the source of the river which courses through the city and out to waterfalls on the southern outskirts of the city, and flowing eventually to the Pacific Ocean. Paricutin volcano emerged in the vicinity in 1943, scaring away much of the population. Our arrival in Tonalá was not in time for shopping so most had dinner and rested in their rooms. We left Tonalá at noon the following day and arrived back in Puerto Vallarta with wonderful memories.

ROBERT BRITTINGHAM retired from the corporate world 16 years ago then embarked as a freelance consultant in the IT industry for the next 15 years, “retiring” four additional times before it stuck. He and his spouse Dolores live near the beach in Puerto Vallarta. He writes blogs and assists Dolores who owns Essence of Cuisine cooking school in PV.

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Street S treet C Children hildren a and nd H Heroes eroes iin n M Manzanillo anzanillo By Terry Sovil

treet children in Manzanillo, say it isn’t so! When I think of “street children” my mind conjures up images of children literally living on the streets. In Los Angeles I worked with the TopSail program for at-risk youth. These are children that haven’t yet been in trouble but because of their environment are at risk of getting into trouble. They come from families and neighborhoods with drugs, gangs and all of the potential violence that surrounds them. While Manzanillo doesn’t have children living on the streets there are many children on the streets or selling to earn money. They are “at risk” of

dropping out of school or il situations it ti th worse. All h have ffamily thatt have left them in very desperate situations. On December 15, I had the pleasure of meeting Mapy Seidel and going with her to the M.E.S.E. house in Colomos, just outside Manzanillo. I was able to attend a Posada with children dressed for the roles, pi-

ñatas, cake, pozole and an awards Families where everyone worked ceremony. It was a fantastic experibut didn’t earn enough to properly ence for me as I had never really seen cover expenses with many people piñatas getting ser seriously whacked living in a single room or two. A faby such intent children. I had ther injured on the job can’t afford n never seen a real health care and is unable to continue Po Posada with the work because of the injury. A famco costumes, tradiily with one alcoholic parent. All add tio tions and exciteup to conditions that could make me ment. I had never children leave school and end up on tho thought much the street selling bread or candies or abo about the condiworking to harvest crops. tion tions in families M.E.S.E. house is working with that could bring just under 40 children now but it has child children to be “at been as high as 60. They try to keep risk” in a culture the children in their own homes such as Mexico’s. where this is possible. Mapy coordiM Mapy Seidel is nates fund raising efforts and visits the new n President of as often as she is able. One of her M.E.S M.E.S.E. which stands jobs is to match a child with a sponfor Minors M in Extraorsor. The cost is a low $2500 pesos dinary Situations for one child for one year. Keeping a which was founded in child in school through graduation 1992 by Mapy and Sandra Martin del or even for an additional few years Campo. M.E.S.E. works closely with can make a difference in their lives D.I.F., a social work agency. The city and the types of jobs they may be rents the M.E.S.E. able to get. house, D.I.F. pays An example of a famEvery two for three psycholomonths Mapy takes ily that had sold a great pride in awardgists and two social workers and M.E.S.E. child due to the child’s ing an envelope of covers the building medical illness that money to the chilexpenses, a matron, dren. This is done in three teachers and a they couldn’t afford to front of their peers cleaner. and family members. treat. Many of the chilThe money is used to dren live at the house allowing them cover the expenses of requirements the structure and supervision they to be in a school in Mexico (uniforms, need free of problems. When I think shoes, text books, sporting and exerof street children I think of abuse, cise gear etc.). As part of the overall drugs and gangs. Some of these agreement, the families have to assame problems exist here but there sure their children are in school, that are also problems that could hapthey obtain passing grades and that pen to any family anywhere in the they are not working to earn money world. An example was a family that during the week. They are allowed to sold a child due to the child’s mediwork on weekends. cal illness that they couldn’t afford to The staff works with the parents treat. Sometimes, extreme poverty to overcome problems. While the and frustration causes one parent to children are at school during the abandon them. week, the M.E.S.E. staff will work with them to train them in job skills including such things as dress making and making piñatas. There are street children and there are heroes. Even in Manzanillo!

TERRY D. SOVIL is a Master Instructor for PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) and was a U. S. Coast Guard Captain (50-Ton Master’s License). He has lived in Mexico for many years.

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

INSIGHT STRAIGHT By Jim Tuck

The Pro Bono Blues

he only reason I don’t classify “pro bono” as the two dirtiest words in the English language is that they happen to be Latin words. Here I make a distinction between voluntary pro bono and what I would call pro bono under duress. If a celebrity lawyer wants to enhance his fame by defending an indigent client in a civil liberties case, fine. But what of someone who receives unwanted requests to perform pro bono assignments and is then reviled as a cad or subjected to reprisals if he/ she refuses to do so? I find myself in that unenviable position. I guess one of the penalties of going online and having one’s website posted is that it leaves one open to all sorts of undesirable communications. Now I don’t mind being called a communist, a fascist, an anarchist or even a bleeding-heart liberal. If you’re a politically-oriented writer, as I am, that’s the dues you pay. But I mind intensely being asked to perform chores that involve research and writing with no offer of remuneration. Herein lies a tale. Not long ago I received an e-mail from what I gather was a teenage girl or very young woman in which I was directed to prepare a report on the childhood of a famous Mexican painter. I responded that this would involve taking time off from my regular writing duties to do research and maybe even arrange an interview with his son, who lives in Guadalajara and about whom I wrote an article in 1985. As politely as I could, I mentioned that her letter made no mention of compensation. The response was a nasty, whining missive that she was only asking for information and didn’t know I was running a “business.” I replied that I defined a request for information as something like instructions on how to get downtown -not a demand that one to take time off from one’s work engage in research, arrange an interview and furnish a detailed report. This produced a petulant message

accusing me of not being “nice.” Still attempting to keep things on an even keel, I said I was not an elitist, I did not consider myself any better than a plumber or an electrician, but, as a professional, I considered myself just as good. I then suggested that the next time she engaged the services of a plumber or electrician, she tell them they weren’t being “nice” if they presented her with a bill. That done, I deleted the lady from my Outlook Express file. Shortly after that I began to get virus attacks on my computer system. These were ineffective. I have a friend who heads a computer school and he arranged a protection system for me that has to date been foolproof. I should also say that I have no concrete proof that my cyber-nemesis is the person mentioned above. I’ve had other pro bono requests-mainly from people who identified themselves as teenagers -and it could be any one of them. What disturbs me is that anybody could be so malicious as to try and cause me professional damage simply because I refused to enter into a relationship that could only be described as involuntary and unpaid servitude. The wisest and wittiest comment about the detestable principle of pro bono was uttered by George Bernard Shaw. Shaw had agreed to address a women’s group in London. Overcome with gratitude, the group’s president said: “Oh. Mr. Shaw, what can we possibly do to express our appreciation?” Shaw’s response: “Madam, the Phoenicians answered your question when they invented money.”

JIM TUCK was the Mexico editor for Fedor’s Travel Guide for many years. He has written more than 2000 magazine articles and has published several well-known books of non-fiction, including John Reed and Pancho Villa.

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REMEMBERING R EMEMBERING EMEMBER IN NG P PUERTO VALLARTA By Phyllis Rauch rauchlosdos@yahoo.com www.losdosmexico.com The First Visit

emembering Puerto Valof the car, keeping watch for major larta as I first came to holes or obstacles. I’m glad I can no know it forty years ago, I longer recall how long the trip took, feel as though I am looking down but it seemed that our rough track led the wrong end of a pair of binocuthrough endless forests of thick green lars. Few places that I’ve known well trees and vines, unbroken by towns or have grown and changed so drastigas stations. cally in such a relatively short time. Grubby, weary, we arrived to this Arriving in Guadalajara in 1967, I unprepossessing location in the midwas offered my first opportunity to dle of a Mexican jungle. As Georg and visit the sleepy, hidden fishing village I unpacked the paintings and started that had recently risen from centuhanging them, enthusiastic art lovers ries of obscurity thanks to the filmbegan strolling through the funky galing there of The Night of the Iguana in lery that was located near Los Muer1964. tos beach. The air was redolent with The movie, based on a Tennessee marijuana and a 33-inch record of SerWilliams play, featured Richard Burgeant Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Band serton as a defrocked Episcopalian priest enaded us with “Lucy in the Sky with who leads a bus-load Diamonds.” of Baptist church- The Burtons weren’t Soon happy women along the the only famous couple (stoned?) tourists Mexican coast. The were reserving and buildings created to pass through early making down payfor the set were to Puerto Vallarta, but ments on Georg’s be left behind, overpaintings. By the looking Mismaloya more about them is to time the official cockcome in a future article. tail party opened, at beach. Given that first least half of the exchance to visit the newly famous little hibit was already sold. That was the village, I actually reneged. The only beginning of a long and pleasant galway to get there then was in a small lery relationship. airplane. No way was anyone squeezThe Burtons weren’t the only faing me into one of those sardine cans mous couple to pass through early in the sky. Puerto Vallarta, but more about them Less than a year later, though, is to come in a future article. Harry Bemy husband Georg and I were living lafonte was a guest, though, at one of in Guadalajara where we met artist the early cocktail openings and he fell Manuel Lepe, already famous for his in love with the crazy musical table charming, angel-filled representations that Georg had built and brought of his native Pacific village. Manuel along on top of our car to enliven the with his wife Marcela owned and ran party. Thanks to a small hidden mothe only gallery in Vallarta. Georg was tor, the table played bongo drums, offered a show there, so we faced the clanked silverware, and screeched a daunting challenge of transporting string accompaniment. Mr. Belafonte an entire exhibit to a town which still insisted on buying the table, and I’d didn’t have a highway connection. love to think it is making music for We didn’t have four-wheel drive, him still, wherever he may be. a van or even a station wagon, but our beloved Plymouth Fury carried PHYLLIS RAUCH has lived in Mexthe paintings and us over a grueling ico for more than 30 years. She dirt road all the way from the city. edited and translated her late husOf course there were no bridges, so band’s memoirs The Jew with the our trusty Fury also forded the rivers, Iron Cross. She owns and operates with one of us sometimes outside a B&B in the Lakeside area.

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

Ask Carolyn By Carolyn Comedo

(

d. Note: Carolyn has recently retired to P.V. after a successful career counselling couples in the former Russian state of South Adiaphorous. She has graciously volunteered to answer questions from readers who may find themselves stalled by one or more of life’s many predicaments. She and her husband, Leon, live in Mismaloya. Send queries to this publication, care of the Editor.) DEAR CAROLYN: What is it that men and women really want? CONFUSED DEAR CONFUSED: Women want to be cherished, loved, trusted, respected, desired, caressed and adored. Men want sex and beer. DEAR CAROLYN: What is a Ménage à trois? CURIOUS DEAR CURIOUS: Ménage à trois is a French phrase used in the science of climatology. It means, when hell freezes over. DEAR CAROLYN: I am in love but there is a problem. Every time we have sex my girlfriend sells tickets and invites the public in to watch. My question is, must she declare this

money as income when she does her taxes? DEDUCTION DEAR DEDUCTION: No, she doesn’t have to. Making love is considered a non-profit activity unless, of course, she is also charging you. DEAR CAROLYN: I am a retired undertaker. My father has dementia and my mother is bulimic. They are supported by my sister who works in a brothel. My only brother is a bookie and my nephew is a transvestite who is in prison for impersonating a nun. I am engaged to a woman who sells drugs in a nursing home. In view of the fact that I intend to make this woman my wife and want no secrets between us, should I tell her that my brother-in-law is a Canadian? DISGRACED DEAR DISGRACED: Definitely not! Being related to a Canadian would place an irremovable stain on your entire family’s reputation.

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“Hernan Cortes -The Caesar of Mexico” By Mildred Boyd

n all of Mexico not a single statue or monument commemorates his deeds. No town or village, not even a street, bears his name. Muralists depict him as a deformed monster with the face of Evil Incarnate. Why? The Conquest produced villains aplenty; soldiers greedy for gold and family. Yet he seldom attacked and glory, priests who considered without provocation or without oftorture the perfect instrument for fering peaceful overtures. conversion, Viceroys whose only The numerous accusations concern was extorting wealth against Cortes are mostly lies propwithout thought to the plight of agated by his arch-enemy, Nuno de an enslaved people. Possibly, there Guzman. He murdered his wife. (If were even a few saints; priests who so, it seems to have been the most decried violence and sought to win attention that poor lady ever reconverts by loving kindness or lay ceived from him.) He tried to poison administrators who tried to rule an entire Royal deputation. (The justly. earliest recorded case of “MoctHernan Cortes hardly fits either ezuma’s revenge?”) He planned to category. He was only a man; one rebel and set himself up as king. with many of the faults and a surThe list goes on, but surprisingly prising number of the virtues of his few accusations involve mistreattime. Even his most ardent admirer, ment of Indians. historian Francisco The Massacre at Lopez Gomara, re- The troublesome Cor- Cholula is one, and cords instances of tes was soon replaced on the face of it, the “intriguing, lying, slaughter of 3,000 cajoling, bullying with a governing com- Indians might seem and threatening,” mittee which exiled inexcusable. But but let it be noted was it? Granted that him. that these tactics Cortes should never were usually emhave been there at ployed against his own countryall; his position was untenable. His men. His dealings with the Indians Tlaxcalan allies had been left outwere almost always honorable. side to avoid offending the ChoCortes sought to pacify, not lulans and he and his small band provoke; to appease with gifts, not were virtual prisoners in a hostile oppress with guns. He hoped to town. Is it any wonder that, when acquire a productive province, not presented with proof of a treasona slave slate. Orders to his troops ous plot, he decided to strike first? were explicit. No one was to “vex The death of Cuauhtemoc is anor offend” the natives. Women and other accusation. But why Cortes children must always be spared. should keep his bitterest enemy Only food, and that scrupulously alive for years, only to haul him off paid for, might be taken. Lootto the Guatemalan jungles for exing and rape were punishable by ecution, is a mystery—unless, of death. course, the Aztec prince was truly That is not to say that Cortes nevguilty of fomenting rebellion? er used force. Many bloody battles It must be remembered that were fought and many Indians died Cortes’ puny army, however brave, for the “crime” of defending home could never have prevailed against

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

hundreds of thousands of hostile foes. Only in the first few battles were they without allies. Cortes’ policy of friendship allowed him to use the internal dissensions of the Aztec Empire to destroy it. In so doing, he made himself the champion of the vast majority of the Indians of New Spain. He was their friend and protector, and he never lost their love and respect. Cortes hoped to avoid the errors that had been made in the Islands. His letters to Charles V are filled with warnings and pleas. He begged that only settlers be allowed in New Spain, not adventurers “intent on consuming the country’s substance and then abandoning it.” He asked for humble priests who would convert by pious example, not high prelates who would “dispose of the gifts of the Church and waste them in pomp and other vices.” Despite (or because of?) the fact that he had studied law, he recommended that lawyers be banned on the grounds that they encouraged contention in order to profit from the ensuing litigation. Most of all, he deplored the practice of repaying services to the Crown with Indian slaves to work land grants. Yet he had no other way of rewarding his own followers. Charles was not interested. He obviously believed his insistence on the conversion of the natives, thus ensuring their Heavenly reward, was quite enough and considered enslavement a small price to pay for such favors. Nor did he accede to any other request. The troublesome Cortes was soon replaced with a governing committee which exiled him. His fall from grace was a blackletter day for the natives and they knew it. Had he chosen defiance, Gomara claims, “almost all the Spanish and all the Indians would have taken up arms in his favor

and defense.” This was undoubtedly true. When Cortes returned from Honduras after having been reported dead he found his lands confiscated, his treasury looted and his home occupied by enemies. The Indians greeted him with wild rejoicing and his fellow Spaniards were willing to join him in ousting the usurpers. Instead, Cortes meekly sailed for Spain, hoping to clear his name with the Emperor. He succeeded and was fobbed off with a title and huge land grants, complete with thousands of slaves. He was graciously allowed to retain the office of Captain General and continue his profitable conquests for the Crown, but denied any say in their administration. Cortes was forced to watch as men like Nuno de Guzman destroyed all he had hoped to build. His own estates were models of what proper management and respect for Indian rights could achieve and his people sincerely mourned his passing. He died in Spain in 1547 and his body was returned to Mexico for burial. Yet by 1810 this man had come to symbolize all the evils of the Spanish Conquest and, for fear of desecration, his remains were dug up and hidden for years before reburial. As with Caesar, all of the good Cortes did has been “. . . interred with his bones.” So let it be with Hernan Cortes.

MILDRED BOYD is the author of several published books, both fiction and non-fiction, as well as being a keen student of Mexican history.

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ESPAÑOL —Gringo-Style By Margie Harrell

ike most ex-pats when turned it to they first arrive in Mexico, the señorita I decided to sign up for as I once again some Spanish lessons fully expectlearned a valuable lesson. When in ing to master the language in a few Rome, it’s always a good idea to tread short weeks and move on to somelightly until you first see how the Rothing more challenging, like salsa mans do things. dancing. As I began to get the hang Shopping was always a lesson in of things I wondered what all the fuss humility as I would ask for huevos was about. The fact that my high (eggs) and say Jueves (Thurs) instead. school French kept getting in the way Undaunted by my many goofs I rewas beside the point as I greeted one call asking a waiter one evening for and all with a cheery buenos dias. some tea (te) but instead managed to It wasn’t long before I discovered tell him I desired tu (you). He smiled, how warm and friendly the Mexican I smiled and the tea never was forthpeople are but their greatest asset, coming. to my way of thinking, is their ability As time went by I did manage to to overlook how we gringos butcher learn a few helpful phrases, mosttheir beautiful lanly pertaining to guage. Lord knows During my travels in auto repairs. Saywe try but the ing thump, thump, sounds in our heads France I learned there is bang, bang doesn’t don’t always come only one way to speak quite get the mesout the right way. Try French, their way but sage across to the rolling the double r’s mechanic. Mind in perro and you will not so in Mexico. you, should it get see what I mean. too complicated, we Armed with my trusty travelwere back to arm waving again. Ah, ers’ Spanish dictionary I felt I was the universal language. equipped to mingle with the natives. During my travels in France I A friend had told me that the local learned there is only one way to speak home for the elderly was looking French, their way but not so in Mexico. for volunteers and having worked You can be speaking Swahili and you in the medical profession for years, I will still get a friendly “Si, señora.” was sure I could handle this. Oh dear, Over the years I have made feeble you would have thought I had just attempts to brush up on my Español landed from Mars. Those poor souls but my mind only seems to absorb so didn’t understand a word I was saymuch and the rest just flows right on ing. A mime had nothing on me as through. But not to worry as in my my arms and hands flailed about. To part of Paradise everyone just says add to this, for some reason I thought “no problema” and life goes on. moving my eyebrows up and down Apparently after all is said and in sync with my hands would help done, Español gringo-style really the cause. What a sight I must have can work as a “second language.” looked to them. Things got even worse when I offered to help a young girl who was sweeping the floors. I mumbled MARGIE HARRELL something like “me, broom, si?” as she has been in and out of gave me a faint smile and retreated to Mexico for the past 20 a corner with eyes downcast. It seems, years and has published in one fell swoop, I had robbed her of many articles about her her livelihood. My friend gently took experiences, usually with a droll the broom from my hand and resense of humor.

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

GRINGAS & GUACAMOLE By Gail Nott

The Border Syndrome

he Center for Disease Control is still attempting to gather data as to the magnitude of border syndrome. Early reports indicate that it afflicts only Canadians and Americans as they cross into Mexico. Individuals over 50 appear drome. At age 50 my brain cells were most susceptible. A number of interdown to a manageable number and I esting case studies have been comthought there was nothing left I had piled--including that of a sergeant to learn the hard way. Accepting an in the US who became a general in invitation to go horseback riding, asMexico! suring everyone I was experienced, A couple’s house in the flood was the first symptom. plains of Ohio As I approached was condemned Someone noticed that the stables, I and they received wouldn’t say I was I was tilted to one side tense, just terribly, $100,000. However, upon crossing and suggested we stop terribly alert. I had the border, their and adjust my stir- dressed approprifarm sold for over ately, I thought; $250,000. A retired rups. tennis shoes, khaki Army sergeant reslacks, designer ceives an unexpected promotion to shirt and a fashionable straw hat I’d major once settled in Mexico. A script brought from the States. I glanced at writer from California discovers he the other riders in high leather boots, actually was the assistant director for jeans, T-shirts and baseball caps, and “Gone With The Wind.” realized that whatever kind of look I I was totally unaware that I too was going for, I missed. had been infected with border synAs the horses were led into the paddock, I noticed most sa saddles sported a phalliclik protrusion on the top. like A Assessing this could be us as an emergency hand used gr grasp, I felt somewhat relie lieved. When the reins of the st stallion were presented to m I was shocked that my me, fr friends would give me a dete tective saddle; there wasn’t a p protrusion on the top. I was ad adamant; I would not use a pi piece of equipment that did no meet the requirements not of the Equine Safety Counci Assuming I was joking, cil! m friends stated that as an my ex expert rider they thought I w would enjoy the Australian sa saddle much more than th wooden treed Mexican the sa saddle. My unwillingness to be honest was the second

indicator I had contracted border syndrome. As we rode toward the beach, my gallant steed lagged behind. Shouts of “Whip him” came from the front. Good God, why would I do that, he might move faster; the steering and braking mechanisms seemed very antiquated at that. We ambled down the beach slowly and my confidence grew. Someone noticed that I was tilted to one side and suggested we stop and adjust my stirrups. Having no idea what this procedure involved I agreed. Another set of reins were thrust into my hands as the rider dismounted. My horse began to buck, baring his teeth, whirling to attack the other animal. I became an unwilling participate in an age, old battle - two stallions fighting for dominance. As metal shod hooves sailed past my face and upper body, I heard shouts of “Let go of the reins, get your horse away.” Excellent idea except which reins and go where? When a hoof hit my ankle and then calf, I was thrown forward in the saddle. The shift of my body weight propelled the stallion onward and another rid-

er grabbed his reins. Well, this day was a total waste of make-up. As tears of pain and fear cleansed my face, someone cantered off to bring a car to the beach to take me to a clinic. The massive bruises were tolerable compared to the deflation of my ego. As more gringos move to Mexico, it can be anticipated that the number of cases of border syndrome will increase. I have suggested to the Center for Disease Control a day of horseback riding might be a cure; it certainly worked for me. Will I go horseback riding again someday? Possibly, when I have a full- blown death wish.

GAIL NOTT is the author of a book of humor called Notes from the Loo. She divides her time between Mexico and Tennessee, where she has a turkey farm.

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TAPALPA: THE LAND OF COLORS By Stephen Stanton

estled in a quiet valley on the Tapalpa Mesa, a part of the Western Sierra Madre Mountains, this first “Pueblo Mágico” of Jalisco, Tapalpa, is still the living image of a lifestyle lost and even forgotten by many Mexicans. The quiet cobblestone streets, the traditional architectural style, the aroma of wood stoves and fireplaces and the country living are a remembrance and a reconnection with the deepest roots of the Mexican culture, for visiting Mexicans and foreigners alike. Once an isolated but important town, with the first foundry and paper mill in this region of Mexico (mid 1800’s), today Tapalpa is still a small town, but it is growing. The natural beauty of the region, the mostly temperate climate, the rolling hills and pine forests that surround the town and the peaceful atmosphere of an old style “pueblito” make for an irresistible travel temptation. Guadalajara kept it a secret for years. Now the word is getting around: Tapalpa is unique, pristine, blessed with natural and cultural attractions and it’s not overrun with massive tourism. The municipality had its first

paved road built only forty five years ago. The development of residential complexes, cabins and hotels started slowly, some 25 years ago, making or “huaraches” (leather, tire-soled Tapalpa the secret week-end getsandals), made to size? Or are you away place for Tapatios (people from looking for hand-loomed wool wall Guadalajara). To date, it is a weekhangings? These and other tradiend destination, which leaves Tapaltional and modern crafts are a way pa in its natural state for the rest of of life for many here in Tapalpa and the week: quiet and uncongested… definitely one of the reasons why this simply marvelous. Declared a “Puebmountain town is growing in fame. lo Mágico,” it receives important FedWhen talking about eating, visieral and State funds. tors have some variety to choose Wires have gone underground from. Whether at and phone and other posts disappear These and other tra- the typical family down town, section ditional and modern restaurants or “fondas,” or at the series by section, which has made its tradi- crafts are a way of life of taco vending tional architecture for many here in Tapal- stalls in the “Portal Taco,” or at the stand out. It’s like pa and definitely one del more sophisticated traveling in time. Speaking of tra- of the reasons why restaurants in town at some hoditions, the lifestyle this mountain town is and tels, there are good in Tapalpa still reoptions for eating flects the older way growing in fame. well. Rooming varof life: you can find ies from very simple rooms, to very crafts-people dedicated to working good hotels, to barely basic cabins, leather, knit and woven wool, potto luxury cabin homes and even welltery and lots of other arts & crafts in remodeled old homes, both in town small-town shops sprinkled in town and on the outskirts: some “cabañas” and in surrounding communities. are literally hidden in the woods. The Looking for handmade leather belts

better services have their own Internet Web Page. The places to definitely not miss include the oldest buildings in the area, the so called “Old Temple” (18th century) on the town square and the “Hospital de Indios” in the near by community of “Atacco” (16th c.), followed by the remains of the first paper mill in the region. More recent buildings to visit include the much larger “New Temple,” built totally in red brick, also on the square, in front of the Old Temple. Natural attractions abound: the “Salto del Nogal” waterfall (105 meters … only for real trekkers), the “Mega Boulders” (Las Piedrotas) park and the reservoirs and lagoons in different parts of the municipality are sights to visit. Another “must” is the CITAC integration center, a non-profit facility dedicated to helping handicapped children learn arts and crafts: many readers are familiar with their work and look forward to seeing them again, during the various art shows around the country. There are golf and tennis facilities. Adrenaline freaks, on the other hand, have a number of extreme sports sites for everything from simple rappelling to hang-gliding from world class facilities. Tapalpa has something for most people: if it had it all, it just wouldn’t be Tapalpa. After sixteen wonderful years living here, I highly recommend visiting this unique “pueblito” in the mountains, The Land of Colors, Tapalpa.

STEPHEN STANTON was raised in Mexico and in the U.S. Worked 35 years in the Mexican tourism industry. Has lived in Tapalpa for seventeen years and says service is his vocation, happiness in harmony his way of life.

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010

Service

The Ojo Crossword

DIRECTORY AIR LINES - AMERICAN AIRLINES Tel: 01-800-904-6000

Pag: 02

ART GALLERIES - THE AJIJIC ART HOUSE Tel: (376) 765-5097 - THE LOFT GALERIA Tel: (322) 222-6353

Pag: 18 Pag: 11

BOUTIQUE / CLOTHING STORES - CURVAS PELIGROSAS Tel: (322) 223-5978 - LA BOHEMIA Tel: (322) 222-3164 - MARIA DE GUADALAJARA Tel: 322-222-2387

Pag: 12 Pag: 08 Pag: 21

COMMUNICATIONS - MAILBOXES, ETC. Tel: (322) 224-9434

Pag: 06

CONSTRUCTION - ARQ. JUAN JOSE RODRIGUEZ Tel: (322) 225-8248 - MARIAN RING Tel: (314) 335-0225

Pag: 03 Pag: 10

FINANCIAL SERVICES - LAKESIDE MORTGAGE CONSULTANTS Tel: (376) 766-2914 Pag: 21

HEALTH - WELLNESS FIT Tel: (322) 221-3347

- CASA NOSTRA Tel: (376) 765-3824

Pag: 21

Pag: 16

- ARQ. GERARDO ROMERO MORALES Tel: (376) 766-2594 Pag: 09

Pag: 15

SELF STORAGE

Pag: 22

- SELF STORAGE-BODEGAS VALLARTA Tel: (329) 296-5619 Pag: 10

Pag: 22

Pag: 20

MEDICAL SERVICES - HOSPITAL ANGELES DEL CARMEN Tel: 01 (33) 3813-0042

- BLAKES SPORT BAR & GOURMET DINING Tel: (322) 293-2397 Pag: 19 - CASA DEL WAFFLE Tel: 225-2936 Pag: 03 - CHEZ ELENA Tel. 222-0161 Pag: 07 - HACIENDA ALEMANA Tel: 322-222-2071 Pag: 09 - HEATHER’S PLACE - Showtime on the patio Tel: 914-2999 Pag: 11 - JOLANDAS Tel: 315-351-5449 Pag: 12 - JUANITOS Tel: (314) 333-1388 Pag: 15 - MATEJA’S BAR & GRILL Tel: (045) 322-147-6383 Pag: 07 - PICO DE GALLO Tel: 329-291-3736 Pag: 17 - ROOSTERS Tel: (315) 355-5262 Pag: 13 - VALLARTA BOTANICAL GARDENS Tel: (322) 223-6182 Pag: 12

SCULPTOR Pag: 14

INTERIOR DESIGN - CASSIZ Tel: (322) 22 22884, (329) 29 83679, (314) 3336700

RESTAURANTS/CAFES/CLUBS

RETIREMENT/NURSING HOMES Pag: 03

HOTELS / SUITES - CASA DE MARCO Tel: 315-355-8402 - DOLPHIN COVE INN Tel: 314-334-1515 - QUINTA DON JOSE Tel: 01-800-700-2223 - LA NUEVA POSADA Tel: (376) 766-1444 - VILLA BORDEAUX Tel: (01-387) 761-0494

Tel: 315 351 7295 Pag: 18 - FOR SALE BY OWNER - MARINA VALLARTA Tel: 322-225-8248 Pag: 11 - FOR SALE BY OWNER-Villa in Conchas Chinas Tel: 322-225-8248 Pag: 13 - MANZANILLOREALESTATE.NET Tel: 314-335-0225 Pag: 10 - MICHEL BUREAU Cell. (045) 333-129-3322, Home: (376) 765-2973 Pag: 20 - PENINSULA GOLF & RESIDENCE Tel: (322) 297-5208 Pag: 28 - RE/MAX - PERLA PACIFICO Tel: (314) 333-2904 Pag: 14

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS - JARDINES TROPICALES - MANZANILLO HOLIDAY Tel: 314-335-0225 - VALLARTA BOTANICAL GARDENS Tel: (322) 223-6182

Pag: 17 Pag: 10 Pag: 12

TOURS Pag: 08

- SEA TO SIERRA ADVENTURES Tel: 315-355-5790

Pag: 14

MOVERS - BALDERAS Tel: 01 (33) 3810-4859 - LAKE CHAPALA MOVING Tel: 766-5008

Pag: 05 Pag: 23

REAL ESTATE - COLDWELL BANKER Pag: 27 - DAMYN YOUNG - INTERNATIONAL REALTY Cell. (045) 331 038 3263 Pag: 19 - FOR SALE BY OWNER Tel: 315-351-5298 Pag: 03 - FOR SALE BY OWNER Tel: 315 351 7295 Pag: 15 - FOR SALE BY OWNER-LOT

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ACROSS

DOWN

1 Light lunch 7 Far away 11 Really cool 14 lodine compound 15 Loaf 16 Lager 17 Hair shaper 18 File 19 Female deer 20 Dame 22 Element 24 Avenue 27 Drain 29 Helps 30 Lad 32 Love potion 35 Blood vessel 37 Greek stringed instrument 38 Lean 41 Asian nation 42 Annual storm causing current 44 Negative 45 Canines 48 People from Asia 49 Given 51 V.P.’s boss 52 Frock 55 Jurisprudence 56 Be 57 Relies on 60 Insignificant 64 Abdominal muscles (abbr.) 65 Frozen rain 67 Abatement 71 Molder 72 Giant 73 Disturbance 74 Judge 75 Russia 76 Australian city

1 Facial twitch 2 Promissory note 3 Not JFK 4 Movie 5 Whim 6 Smart person 7 Mail transported by planes 8 Food and drug administration (abbr.) 9 Ditto 10 Representatives 11 Radiuses 12 Out loud 13 Thinks 21 Fire remains 23 Mutilate 24 Do over 25 Vice____ 26 Entrance 28 Laver 31 Beverage 32 Tall post 33 Shoe bottom 34 Snaky fish 36 Remake 38 Jeweled headdress 39 Central 40 Police 43 Clip 46 Young lady 47 Paper connector 49 Insult 50 Ram’s mate 52 Pioneer 53 Pergola 54 Unskilled 58 Thousand (abbr.) 59 Droops 61 So we see 62 Small 63 Grounds 66 Tax agency 68 Decade 69 Employ 70 Eye infection

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Manzanillo

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

MONTHLY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR - MUJERES AMIGAS LUNCHEONS When: First Wednesday of Each Month Where: El Caribe Restaurant Time: 1:00 pm Contact: Candy King 044-314-103-0406, candyk@coldwellbankerbienesraices.com WEEKLY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR - THIRSTY THURSDAYS – MANZAMIGOS Where: To be announced each week – www.manzamigos.com When: 6:00 pm Contact: Jack Akers manzamigos@gmail.com To Join: Linda Breun lbgringa@gmail.com

Mazatlan Mar. 5, First Fridays Art walks, Centro Histórico, Mazatlán, www.artwalkmazatlan.com

Puerto Vallarta Vallarta Artist Studios - open studios March 20 and 21. 10 artists open their studios from 10 am to 10 pm each day, check for maps and details at the Tourist Office at City Hall. Expats in Vallarta Meet 2nd and 4th Tuesdays of each month. For locations and time check www.expatsinvallarta.com, expatsinvallarta.webs.com Every Wednesday 6 - 10 pm, Old Town Art Walk , 16 galleries, Centro. Rotary Club Pitillal, Thursdays, 9:00 pm, Hotel Fiesta Americana. Lions Club, Wednesdays 9:30 pm, Madero #280, 322-222-0313

English Church Services – Puerto Vallarta Assembly of God 1 de Junio #333, Col. El Calvario, Pitillal, 322-4163743 Sunday 10:30 AM –English translation Calvary Chapel Pablo Picasso/Diego Rivera #105 (beside La Playa store, just off Ascencio), 322-293-5455 Sunday 10:30 AM - English translation, and 6:30 PM – in English Wednesday 6:30 PM – in English (Bible Study) Centro Cristiano Nuevo Amanecer Sierra Aconagua #111 (next to Bancomer branch on Ascencio), 322-222-3330 Sunday 10:00 AM – English translation Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints Emiliano Zapata #420, 322-209-0592 Sunday 8:00 AM and 12:00 Noon – in Spanish (translators avail.) Sunday 1:00 PM – in English (Sunday School) Church on th Beach El Dorado ont the Beach Sundays 9:30 am Pulpito 9:30 am (los Muertos Beach) Christ Church by the Sea Blvd Fco. Medina 7936 (across from Airport) Sunday 10:00 am www,christchurchbyuthesea.org, 322-209-0895 First Baptist Church Argentina #181 (corner Peru, 1 block north of Malecon), 322-222-1722 Sunday 9:45 AM – in English Iglesia Maria Reina de la Paz Albatros #270, Col. Marina Vallarta,322-209-1545 Sunday 11:00 AM - Bilingual

Guayabitos Rotary Club Meetings, Wednesday, 7:30 am, Restaurant Piña Colada

Ajijic / Chapala Music Appreciation Society, Mar. 23, Two Guitarists extraordinaire - Grisha Goryachev & Juanito Pascal.

The The Ojo Ojo Crossword Crossword

Jehovah’s Witnesses Milan #271, Col. Versalles Sunday 7:00 PM – in English Parroquia de la Santa Cruz Aguacate #233 (at Lazaro Cardenas), Old Town, 322-222-0989 Sunday 11:00 – part English Parroquia De Nuestra Señora De Guadalupe Miguel Hidalgo #370 (2 blocks E. of City Hall, corner of Independencia, Downtown) 322-2221326 Saturday 5:00 PM – in English Sunday 10:00 AM – Bilingual The Church at the Santa Barbara Theatre Olas Altas #351, Zona Romantica Sunday 9:30 AM – in English

English Church Services – Mazatlan San Judas Tadeo Av. De La Ostra, Col. Sabalo Country Sunday 8:45 AM – in English The Vineyard Church Camaron Sabalo #335, Golden Zona (beside Budget Car Rental) Sunday 9:00 AM – in English

English Church Services – Manzanillo Pedro’s Cazuelas Restaurant Miramar Beach Sunday 5:00 PM – in English

English Church Services – Melaque St. Patricios Church Sunday 9:30 AM

El Ojo del Mar / March 2010