SUMMER 2015
WHERE WILL
YOUR SUITCASE TAKE YOU?
POE TRAVELER TELL-ALL HOT HOTELS HOTTER PIZZA
ALSO
CUBA YOU CAN GO NOW (AND YOU SHOULD) ETHIOPIA BY AIR IRELAND BY LUXURY RAIL
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POE GO | SUMMER 2015
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
Dear Traveler: It has been the oddest, rainiest spring in our history, and I feel like we will all grow mushrooms. (The elite among us will grow Morels). As my thoughts turn to the looming hot and humid summer, I find myself asking the question: Where to get away? Here are some good ideas, some quite fresh:
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Remember the reverse seasons in the Southern Hemisphere—salubrious, cool days in such urban locations as MELBOURNE (my favorite Down Under City and worth a long visit) and CAPE TOWN (possibly the Queen of Africa); lazy days at Penang or Da Nang as SE Asia glows in our summer and Luang Prabang in Laos (which may be the capital of lotus land).
The three “European” South American capitals: Montevideo, Buenos Aires, or Santiago. Montevideo is the sleeper of the three—great food (cheap truffles, surprising wines, great beef ), 1930s vistas in a city that seems at times to be awaiting the news of Hitler’s invasion of Poland.
The Alps in Austria—where the people are infinitely more interesting and the prices are much lower than in Switzerland— or the off-the-beaten-track Tatras in Slovakia (with huge, 19th-century hotels evoking misty turn-of-the-century trysts). All very accessible from Vienna.
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NOVA SCOTIA is better than Maine; Newfoundland is better than Nova Scotia (riots of wild flowers, stunning coasts, interesting people with curious accents, one village Irish, the next Cornish). Why not a cottage someplace on the “Rock”?
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THE SOUTH PACIFIC is less rainy during our summer—perhaps a sail on the sturdy freighter the Aranui for two utterly idle weeks from Papeete to the incomparable Marquesas of Gauguin.
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Closer to home: a fabulous luxe dude ranch in Montana, a season in Santa Barbara, a lodge in the big woods round Lake Superior on the Michigan Upper Peninsula or Minnesota, a ride across Canada on Via Rail. (It’s best to travel East from Vancouver to surprising Winnipeg or Toronto; Via Rail is much more fun than the private Rocky Mountain rail outfits.)
The main point of this letter is to whet your appetite for the slightly unusual, most appropriate places to escape the hot American summers! So, dear traveler, PLEASE GO AWAY! Your Friendly Travel Agent, FRED
The Norman. Tel Aviv, Israel.
LODGING
WE LOVE
Flummoxed by the question, Where to stay? Allow us to help with this selection of our most recent (and passionate) hotel crushes.
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THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
HOTEL HOTTIES
GORING, GORING . . . GONE
THE NORMAN . . .
BEYOND THE NORM Within its small perimeter Israel packs in abundant riches, from cherished religious sites and well-preserved archaeological treasures to Whether you’re in a shrine or on a hiking trail or in a chic café, Israel is a place to renew the spirit. And there’s no place better to stay than the recently opened boutique hotel The Norman. spectacular natural wonders. Holy land to Jews, Christians, and Muslims, this is where biblical place names like Jerusalem and the Galilee come vibrantly alive. Here, too, you can party by the Mediterranean in Tel Aviv, float in the super-salty Dead Sea, and explore cool mountain waterfalls or sweeping desert landscapes. Whether you’re in a shrine, on a hiking trail, or in a chic café, Israel is a place to renew the spirit. And there’s no place better to stay than the recently opened boutique hotel The Norman. Boutique hotels in Tel Aviv are few and far between, especially in this Mediterranean metropolis that came of age with seaside mega properties. With 50 airy rooms spread across two circa-1920s buildings, the Norman is nestled in a leafy residential enclave in the heart of Tel Aviv. It’s removed from the bustle of the beach, but from the glittering rooftop pool you can glimpse the Mediterranean — a ten-minute walk away. It feels like the private residence of a wealthy uncle—and in a way, it is: The hotel is independently owned by a mysterious figure who shall remain unnamed.
It’s no secret that we at Poe are huge fans of The Goring in London. It should come as no surprise then that we’re also keen on this beach spot. Owned by The Goring, Villa Iduzkia is set in the historic village of Bidart, near Biarritz, with its combination of southern French chic, ocean waves, and great nightlife. The region has a rich cultural heritage, with a distinct Spanish flavor in its architecture and cuisine. This is the perfect base-camp for a stay in this famous part of France, located just 15 minutes from Biarritz airport. One of the most luxurious and wellplaced houses on the Basque coast, Villa Iduzkia’s white walls and striking red balconies, typical of the region, rise from a large garden with a direct path to the sandy shore below—ideal for surfers and beach lovers alike. After a day surfing the waves, guests can head out to explore the local markets, restaurants and bars, or head back to the beach house for a BBQ and a dip in the heated infinity pool. With six beautifully styled king-size bedrooms, the villa is a chic blend of country house elegance with stylish comfort and state-of-the-art technology. It offers the perfect entertaining space for large families or groups of friends with an open-plan kitchen and dining room. There are drop-dead views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Pyrenees from every window. At an exclusive rate for friends, supporters, and past guests of The Goring.
LODGING WE LOVE
RETURN TO SPLENDOUR IN THE ADIRONDACKS No, it’s not the title of a post-WWII romance novel; it’s the experience that awaits you should you travel to Lake Kora. Owned by the likes of Vanderbilts and Carnegies, the Great Camps of the Adirondacks were once elaborate summer playgrounds set against a backdrop of trout-filled lakes and vast swaths of forest. Here’s where high society “roughed it.” Although many are gone, 1,000-acre Kamp Kill Kare remains pristine. Renamed Lake Kora, it has recently opened to guests who book the entire place for a house (or log-cabin) party. Up to 22 guests may enjoy this enchanting place in accommodations spread across eight buildings (each with a kitchen). Gathering spaces abound throughout, and include a gaming room in the main lodge and the Playhouse with a squash court, a media room, and a candlepin bowling alley. Other pastimes include playing tennis, boating on the property’s three pristine lakes, fishing, walking on the trail, or relaxing in the spa building’s whirlpool or sauna. A gourmet chef prepares meals, served family style, and using locally sourced ingredients. Should the evening turn chilly, a bonfire— s’mores included—awaits you at the lean-tos down by the lake. Yes, Lake Kora is an ideal place for gathering together loved ones, whether an extended family or a group of dear friends, but should you tire of all the togetherness you can always retreat to one of the camp’s many secluded spots to listen to the rustling pines, lapping lake, and plaintive call of the loons. Paradise found!
LOUNGE AND LEARN
BAVARIAN CREAM (OF THE CROP) Ellison came back both relaxed from and raving about her stay at Schloss Elmau, a fabulous retreat in Krün, Germany, near Munich and the Austrian border. This is a place where princes and countesses came to edify themselves on subjects like nature and dance, and it continues to draw a high-powered, international crowd. Case in point: Schloss Elmau hosted The Group of 7 (or G-7) meeting this June. Nestled in the Bavarian Alps, the castle is a perfect base for both year-round sports and a home base from which to discover all of the fairy tale castles of King Ludwig II (his favorite is only a three-hour hike away). The hotel boasts five restaurants, several lounges, and four separate spas for adults and families as well as regular classical music and jazz concerts with some notable musicians (Chick Corea included). Grand yet intimate (and just quirky enough), the 94-year-old castle, which was rebuilt in 2007, blends subtle Asian influences with the beauty of the pristine surroundings. Lake Kora
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LODGING WE LOVE
THE GEM OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC
PUT BERMUDA ON YOUR RADAR “Why aren’t we all going to Bermuda?” exclaimed Poe’s Mildred Cooper upon her recent return. With its cerulean waters, pink sands, coral reefs, Colonial charm, and near proximity, there’s really no excuse not to hop over to “The Jewel of the North Atlantic.” Mildred and Margaret Kemp recently stayed at Elbow Beach, where all the rooms are tucked away in cottages dotted through 50 acres of lush gardens. The resort’s five restaurants have something for everyone, and there’s poolside “The beaches are as wide as North and South Carolinas’, and the sand is like Destin’s...
service. The spa is the most superlative in Bermuda. Just a two-hour flight from most East Coast U.S. cities, Bermuda is a quick getaway that feels worlds away. Tranquil and prosperous, this island nation of pastel houses and manicured gardens also has a rich history and British charm. Margaret paints this (pastel) picture of her time there, “The beaches are as wide as North and South Carolinas’, and the sand is like Destin’s. The water is all different shades of blue, some of the prettiest I’ve seen. The food was delicious; the spa was incredible; the service was great; the bread pudding soaked in rum was to-die-for; hibiscus flowers are everywhere. Lots of Brits were there with their families. Elbow Beach is a very family friendly place. The rooms have a clean, crisp Pottery Barn feel. Getting around can be a little expensive, but why even leave the property?”
Postcards from the Past
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
Veteran Poe Traveler Jim Rule recently re-discovered these scribblings from a 1974 trip to Egypt:
4/20/74 Athens/Cairo – Alitalia –1.5 hrs. Jiffy dinner not bad. Sat next to a distinguished gentleman in his sixties — white hair, fairly heavy — who drank three scotch and waters en route. We start talking over dinner; turns out the lady sitting in front of me is Mrs. Sadat . . . daughter across. They have been shopping in Paris—she in Givenchy, daughter in Guy LaRoche. The man’s name is Mr. Fawzi—Abdel Hafez—who, I find out later, is head of the President’s body guard. We talk of many things. I agree that it is a very good thing that relations between the U.S. and Egypt are improving. He praises Kissinger; I praise Sadat. He hopes Nixon survives if for no other reason than to maintain the momentum of new relations. . . . we talk of
Sadat as a man of the people. (But upon landing his wife and her party are whisked away in black Mercedes limousines to a separate baggage claim.) Mr. Fawzi introduces me to her just before landing, and I mumble something about how I respect and admire her husband and hope she will visit the U.S. soon. She thanks me and says she visited once in ’64 (?) and hoped to return. She’s a very darkly attractive woman with a good figure. 4/21/74 Awakened by phone at 9:00 a.m.: “I am Hella, your guide. I’m in the lobby waiting for you.”
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POE GO | SUMMER 2015
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
EXPERIENCES
BY AIR, BOAT, RAIL... AND DOGSLED!
EXPERIENCES BY AIR,BOAT, RAIL . . . AND DOGSLED!
PUTTING THE “GO” IN ARCHIPELAGO
Aman continues to amaze with their newest option for cruising the breathtaking archipelagos of Indonesia. This past May, they added a spectacular new addition to their fleet—Amandira. Named after the Sanskrit-derived word for ‘peace’ and dira which means ‘intrepid’ (and, we’re guessing, ‘super styley’), the custom-built, 52-metre, two-masted Phinisi sailing vessel offers five spacious cabins and can travel under sail as well as motor. When not diving or exploring, you may choose to lounge on the expansive teak foredeck, cocktail in hand. Amandira also features an indoor lounge, a library, and an entertainment room. Amandira is designed as a luxury sailing and dive vessel, and the crew of 14 ensures seamless service on-board. A dive master and team will support guests in their exploration of the reefs. Amandira offers a seven-night Amandira Komodo Expedition which runs in summer months from April to October. From November to February, Amandira sails east to the stunning jungle clad cluster of islands known as Raja Ampat, to offer world class snorkel and dive opportunities on five- or seven-night expeditions. We love it for all of the obvious reasons but also because Amandira can be chartered in tandem with her sister vessel, the Amanikan, to offer larger groups and families an unforgettable sailing experience in one of the most beautiful parts of the world.
THINK AFRICAN SAFARI BUT IN THE ARCTIC
BARGE RIGHT IN As the saying goes, friends who barge together stay together! (Like, literally, on the same boat.) We’re particularly fond of Belmond Barging, “Afloat in France.” Charter one of their five fabulous vessels as you navigate your choice of destinations: Bésziers, Burgundy, Canal du Midi, Carcassonne, Provence, and the Rhône Valley. Drift past fields of blazing sunflowers, hilltop châteaux, and verdant vineyards on a voyage of discovery, all from the comfort of your péniche-hôtel. This is the perfect friends’/ couples’ trip for a special occasion (like a birthday or anniversary) as well as for multi-generational groups—with kids, grandparents, and grandkids in tow. From golf to antiques, Belmond can
theme your cruise around your preferred activities to suit all ages and stages. Here’s a cruise sure to pique the interest of wine lovers—on the Semaine des Grands Crus tour, you can taste 33 of Burgundy’s magnificent wines, take wine classes and tours of famous cellars, such as Joseph Drouhin, and dine with the winemakers themselves. So we urge you to gather your crew for Cru! BARGING IN TANDEM If you are in a large group, you can charter two or three vessels together. With added space and shared facilities, it offers exceptional flexibility. Belmond Fleur de Lys and Amaryllis can travel together to accommodate up to 14 guests. Book Belmond Fleur de Lys, Amaryllis, and Hirondelle together and invite up to 22 people.
Arctic Kingdom offers an awe-inspiring array of Arctic safari experiences for everyone. Marvel at the powerful polar bear and the mystical narwhal, build igloos, or go dog sledding. Not your cup of tea? Have a cup of tea in a luxury tented camp or rustic lodge. All journeys put you in the heart of the wildlife action—whether you’re tracking polar bears or spotting narwhals. Through their unique combination of small groups, safari style arctic camps, expedition experts and the most experienced Inuit guides, Arctic Kingdom ensures that your experience in the world’s most captivating place on earth is second to none. Arctic Kingdom has been leading polar expeditions since 1999. They possess decades of experience in the field, and know the Arctic like no other operator. The result is unparalleled expertise in Arctic wildlife and habitat, and deep-rooted relationships with local Inuit communities, allowing them to tailor incredible experiences every time.
“When not diving or exploring, you may choose to lounge on the expansive teak foredeck, cocktail in hand.”
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POE GO | SUMMER 2015
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
BY AIR, BOAT, RAIL... AND DOGSLED!
BE ON THE LOOKOUT . . . Regent’s Seven Seas Explorer, which promises to be the most luxurious ship on the sea, debuts in 2016! Seven Seas Explorer is spacious yet intimate, elegant and perfectly staffed to offer RSSC’s special brand of all-inclusive luxury. Journey to the world’s most beautiful places in spacious designer suites, indulge in a decadent treatment at the world renowned Canyon Ranch SpaClub®, enjoy a musical performance in a plush lounge, and delight in extensive gourmet dining throughout the day and night. Regent Seven Seas Cruises recently revealed that the Seven Seas Explorer’s maiden voyage will be a remarkable 14-night cruise from Monte Carlo to Venice on July 20, 2016.
ALL ABOARD!
YOU’VE GOT RAIL We are delighted to announce that booking has opened for the new luxury Irish train Belmond Grand Hibernian. Call us now to be the first on board in August 2016. The train offers fascinating two-, four-, and six-night fully inclusive overnight journeys from Dublin—all capture both the enchanting heritage and vibrant modernity of Ireland. Whether planning a milestone private party or an important business meeting, make a lasting impression with an event aboard one of Ireland’s most unique venues. Celebrate on one of Belmond’s scheduled trips or charter the train and create a personalized itinerary. For those seeking a unique way to experience Ireland, rail vacations aboard Belmond Grand Hibernian are sure to deliver. The train features 20 en-suite cabins with design inspired by Dublin’s classic Georgian architecture. The first luxury rail experience of its kind in Ireland, it traverses the sprawling countryside, dramatic coasts, and fascinating cities that define this captivating land.
2 NIGHTS REALM OF GIANTS
Two-nights take you north to Belfast and the award-winning Titanic Experience, Old Bushmills Distillery and awe-inspiring Giant’s Causeway.
THE WHITE CONTINENT No place on Earth compares to this vast white wilderness of elemental forces: snow, ice, water, and rock. Antarctica is simply stunning. Just ask Ellison and Fred, who have both journeyed to this far-flung place. Venturing deep into the heart of Antarctica for the past 25 years, Abercrombie & Kent has successfully completed more than 175 expeditions and boasts a remarkable team of award-winning conservationists, scientists, and historians, each with more than 18 years of experience on average. But A&K’s steadfast expertise goes beyond numbers with an extraordinary passion for the White Continent, something you are sure to witness under the wing of their crew and expedition team while aboard the stunning Le Boreal. Choose from: Antarctica, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands (2015-17) Classic Antarctica (2015-17) ABOVE Le Boréal Cruise Ship at South Georgia Island, photographed by Richard Harker.
4 NIGHTS LEGENDS AND LOUGHS
The four-night journey heads west towards Cork and Blarney Castle, then continues to the spectacular Lakes of Killarney, wild Connemara National Park and charming Galway.
6 NIGHTS GRAND TOUR OF IRELAND
An exciting six-night combination of the fourand two-night trips includes a city tour of Dublin.
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POE GO | SUMMER 2015
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
BY AIR, BOAT, RAIL... AND DOGSLED!
THE CHEESIEST GUIDED TOUR IN NYC
CHALLENGING AND AWE-INSPIRING
ETHIOPIA BY HELICOPTER
8 Days Through Africa’s Most Dramatic Landscapes We’re now pleased to offer adventurous Poe clients this rare, new service: a helicopter safari in Ethiopia where one minute you’re taking in vast plains, mountains, distant clusters of monolithic churches, and the next you’re swooping in for a jaw-dropping close-up. Ethiopia’s storied and sovereign history has left its wide-ranging and fertile highlands laden with historical treasures, from the ancient tombs and obelisks of Aksum to 17th-century castles and burnt-out Russian tanks. Ethiopia’s landscapes are no less dramatic and range from the Simien Mountains National Park and Bale Mountains National Park, which offer tremendous interactions with dozens of animals and birds seen nowhere else on earth, to the Danakil Depression which lies below sea level. The remote lowlands in the sultry southwest are also home to untold adventures and house some of Africa’s most fascinating tribes. Challenging and awe-inspiring, this is a journey you’ll never forget.
The best way to enjoy New York is by walking its streets, but the only way to taste New York is by eating its pizza. You can do both on a NYC Pizza Walk with Scott’s Pizza Tours. The Greenwich Village Pizza Walk focuses on pizza from a historical perspective. You’ll start at America’s oldest pizzeria and continue to follow pizza’s rise to ubiquity block by block. You’ll also have slices at three of New York’s most significant pizzerias in Little Italy and Greenwich Village. If you love
SOME HIGHLIGHTS:
• Visit Aksum (one of the most important ancient • Visit the oldest hominid sites in sub-Saharan ever found, the 3.5 million Africa) year-old skeleton of • See the Gelada baboon, “Lucy” elusive Ethiopian Wolf, • Meet the incredible tribes and Walia Ibex of the Omo • Get a bird’s-eye view • Explore a medieval world of acid lakes, an active hewn from stone in volcano, giant salt pans, Lalibela (Ethiopia’s and the camel trains of holiest city) and take the Afar nomadic people part in Christian ceremonies that haven’t changed in 1,000 years
Off-the-beaten path(and -wall) Client experiences designed by Poe:
pizza and always wanted to know more about its background, this is the tour for you. Beyond learning about ancient pizza toppings and dough stretching techniques, you’ll also compare the baking patterns of three different pizza ovens. Margaret and Mildred recently took this tasty tour, with kids and grandkids in tow, and loved every step—and slice. “With kids it’s great fun, and Scott is very entertaining and gregarious,” says Mildred. Margaret adds, “I’ve never looked at pizza like this, and I’ll never look at it the same way again. If you’re a pizza-holic, it’s paradise. And it’s fun because Scott knows everybody and is such a dynamic personality. It’s also an interesting way to see the city.” So grab those walking shoes and get ready to learn more information about pizza than you ever thought possible (or necessary)!
INTERESTING “TIDBITE”: Scott Wiener is also the author of Viva La Pizza! The Art of the Pizza Box, a book about his Guinness World Record collection of pizza boxes.
• CHARTER A YACHT IN CROATIA (wildly popular with our clients this year!)
• RIDE THE GLAMOROUS GLACIER EXPRESS in Switzerland
• LEARN HOW TO ROW like a gondolier in Venice
• TAKE A PRIVATE BOAT TOUR through the canals of Amsterdam whilst being serenaded by a beguiling Dutchman
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POE GO | SUMMER 2015
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
“IT’S HONESTLY THE BEST TRIP WE’VE EVER TAKEN...
Cuba Rising A Q & A with CYNTHIA EAST
Timeworn but magnificent, dilapidated but dignified, Cuba is a country of indefinable magic—and contrasts. It’s these rich dichotomies that make travel there the exciting roller-coaster ride it is. Trapped in a time warp and reeling from an economic embargo lasting longer than half a century, this is a country where you can wave goodbye to Western certainties and expect the unexpected. With everyone hungry to visit Cuba now, we thought it was a good time to catch up with the East family about their recent trip to this most enchanting of places. For Cynthia East, it was a journey to connect with her revolutionary roots and a certain legendary figure known as “Dynamite” Johnny O’Brien.
POE: How would you describe your overall experience of Cuba? CYNTHIA EAST: We were fortunate to go as a group of just the four of us—me, my husband, Bobby, our daughter Lizzy, and dear friend Natalie Sanderson.
We laughed and cried (and danced) our entire way through Cuba. I was just so moved by the whole experience. They’ve been oppressed their whole history, but their spirit . . . they have such a joie de vivre. It’s honestly the best trip we’ve ever taken. I felt very connected to that place. ABOVE C & Bobby taking in the sights
OPPOSITE Lizzy and Natalie enjoying a cigar with guide Ana.
Explain your personal connection to Cuba’s history. “Dynamite” Johnny O’Brien was my great grandfather, a sea captain in New York, born of Irish parents who immigrated to America shortly before he was born. He smuggled guns, ammunition and explosives (hence his nickname) to Cuba in their fight for independence from the Spanish in the Spanish American War. He was considered a hero in Cuba because of his daring gunrunning and filibustering of the Spanish Blockade. There had been a statue of some sort honoring him at the port of Havana, but Castro tore it down when he wiped out all things American; we did see where it had been. Wow! That is crazy! And what is it with this Irish-Cuban connection? I know! He was fascinating. There’s a documentary about him in production. Ireland felt a kinship with Cuba; both are islands, both ruled by another power. Both were oppressed. I was particularly moved by a plaque we saw from the Irish claiming solidarity with Cubans. People always talk about the warmth of the Cuban people and the way it’s reflected in their music (possibly the country’s greatest export). They are the most joyful people, and you can hear it in the music. The people are so beautiful and very hospitable and friendly; there’s lots of spoken English. There were also lots of Scandinavian and South American tourists. Music is the great unifier. At every restaurant, on every street corner, in every hotel, there’s a constant “cha-cha-cha.” It’s such a poignant, lively, and fun atmosphere. What about your guides? We adored our guides! Ana, our main guide, was just amazing—young and knowledgeable and fun. We became good friends with her. And our driver, Candido, or “Candy Man,” was hilarious.
What was one of the things that surprised you about Cuba? One thing that surprised me is how European it feels . . . there are beautiful, palatial buildings that date from the 1718th century. Also, just the contrasts, everywhere you go. It’s Spanish Colonial/Old Europe meets the tropics, meets the third-world . . . restored buildings right next to crumbling ones. But the contrasts aren’t found just in the architecture. The people are so poor but seem happy. Also, something a lot of people don’t know is that they have one of the highest literacy rates in the world and excellent healthcare. We have it on good authority that you were almost arrested while there. Does this mean we should now refer to you as “Dynamite” Cynthia? We weren’t arrested, but the police did stop us for driving too slowly in our rented 1948 Chevy convertible. Describe some of the activities you enjoyed. We did a lot over the six days we were there. We visited an art gallery in a private home which was wonderful, really interesting . . . artists are very revered there. We also visited Casa Fuster, an ever-evolving mosaic installation, and Hemingway’s house, Cojimar, and, in Matanzas, we heard a choir that literally
brought me to tears. It was truly the most beautiful music I’ve ever heard. We also witnessed a Santeria religious ceremony, a combination of an Afro-Caribbean religion from the 1700s and Catholicism, which was fascinating. How was the food? You are met everywhere with a mojito, which is a nice welcome. We did eat at some of the traditional state-run restaurants but most enjoyed the paladares, the privately owned restaurants that are in family homes. Those were great—lots of really good black beans and rice, fish, and the most fabulous coffee. What were accommodations like? The hotels were built in the heyday of shows, cabarets, and casinos. We stayed in the recently restored Hotel Capri, built by the gangster Meyer Lansky. It’s literally like walking into the 1950s. It had a beautiful view of Havana Harbor and the castle. The history is just so rich. At the end of the trip, we spent the last two days at a resort on a beautiful beach, Varadero, which was a great way to unwind after the bustle of Havana. Final thoughts on Cuba? I think it was Señor Rafael Moya, the expert in Cuban-Irish relations who said, “Embrace Cuba, but don’t try to understand it.”
... I FELT VERY CONNECTED TO THAT PLACE.”
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POE GO | SUMMER 2015
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
Hey! Where’s Everybody Going? At any given moment, a Poe staff member may found in a far-flung part of the globe. Here’s who’s been globe-trotting as of late. BETH PORTER
NYC, NOLA, St. Simons (GA), Las Vegas CYNDI SAYES
Seoul (South Korea), Michigan ELLISON POE
Vienna, Venice, Prague, Bavaria, Paris, London, St. Andrews (Scotland), The Luberon (Provence), Warm Springs (MT), India, Sri Lanka MARGARET KEMP
NYC, Atlanta, Bermuda, Budapest, Normandy, Switzerland, China MILDRED COOPER
NYC, Atlanta, Bermuda, Budapest, Normandy, Switzerland, China BETH WALTER
AMAwaterways Christmas Time Cruise (Nuremberg to Budapest) TERESA GRACE
Western Caribbean STEPHANIE WADE
France, London, St. Andrews (Scotland), NYC MURRY NEWBERN
Mexico, California, Utah
Map of World - Single Color by FreeVectorMaps.com
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THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
LEFT Miles Hogan with the Batwa pygmies.
Miles to go...
A Q & A with MILES HOGAN
RING IN THE NEW YEAR HERE
POE: What was one of your favorite experiences overall? MILES HOGAN: There are too many to
name, but I have to say that landing in a bush plane on the Serengeti on my first morning in the middle of the wildebeest migration was pretty spectacular. There were thousands of them. It was amazing.
• COPACABANA BEACH Rio de Janeiro, Brazil • MEIJI JINGU SHRINE Tokyo, Japan
What other game did you see? I saw everything. I stayed at five or six different camps along the way and saw elephants, lions, giraffes . . . just so many animals. We were particularly lucky with leopards. I really came away with a sense of how much wildlife conservation efforts are needed there. It’s a very difficult situation. In Tanzania you visited the nomadic Hadzabe tribe. What was that like? That was fantastic; I thoroughly enjoyed it. They’re genuinely living as hunter gatherers; it was so moving to see them going about their lives. I arrived at their camp mid-morning and got to go on a hunt with some tribesmen. They hunt twice a day, mostly birds and kudu. They were also searching for honey, which they collect by climbing high up to the hive and smoking out the bees with fire. They’re very welcoming and friendly; there was a lot joking and laughing going on.
“They’re genuinely living as hunter gatherers; it was so moving to see them going about their lives.” What did you learn from them?
Intrepid Poe traveler Miles Hogan recently returned from a seven-week journey through East Africa (Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, and Ethiopia). Here he shares some reflections from this life-changing trip. Poe’s on-the-ground East African expert David “Suggy” Sugden of Africa House accompanied him much of the way.
A lot of things, but mostly to stay behind the hunters because they’re shooting poison-tipped arrows! Tell us about seeing the Samburu warriors and the Singing Wells. That was extraordinary. The Samburu bring their cattle to these watering
holes, the “Sarara” Singing Wells, on a daily basis during the dry season. They dig these deep wells, which can be up to 30feet deep, and go down into them to get the water out. They form a human chain and chant traditional Samburu songs as they pass water up by hand for the cattle. This ritual goes on for several hours. They’re naked and singing these ancient tribal songs, and they get into this rhythm of moving the water. It’s a very primal, moving scene. The singing sounds like a low hum. You went on both a chimp and gorilla trek. So did you have a favorite? Hard to say. It’s rarer to see gorillas because there are fewer of them, but both were spectacular in their own way. We had almost given up on the chimp trek—the guides couldn’t find them— but we made one more loop and came upon a group of chimps who’d just killed two monkeys and were fighting over the meat. That was amazing. They were going crazy fighting over the meat—the females and elders demanding their share. They only eat meat twice a month so it was remarkable to see that. It was a wild show. The gorilla trek was physically very challenging but well worth it. We came upon a family of five or so, a silverback with two females and really little babies. Where are you inspired to go next? I’d never been to Africa before this trip and loved it so much that I’d like to see South Africa and Botswana. I could hang out in Cape Town for awhile for sure.
• THE GRAND BALL Vienna, Austria • SYDNEY HARBOUR Foreshore Sydney, Australia (or go to New Zealand and Tahiti and celebrate twice!) • TABLE MOUNTAIN Cape Town, South Africa • WESTMINSTER BRIDGE London, England • VICTORIA HARBOUR Kowloon, Hong Kong • HOGMANAY Edinburgh, Scotland • JUNKANOO PARADE Nassau, Bahamas • RED SQUARE Moscow, Russia • BURJ KHALIFA TOWER Dubai, United Arab Emirates • MIAMI BEACH Miami, Florida • Big Island Hawaii • Niagara Falls • Ontario, Canada
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POE GO | SUMMER 2015
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
TOP LEFT Kenya & Tanzania with Africa House: Nancy
Dickins, Barbara Jones, Richard Meyer, Lee Brown, Roger Wilson, Michelle Wilson, David Jones & Jim Jones.
TOP RIGHT The Pruitts & their guide Chris at Samburu
Saruni, Samburu Game Reserve, Kenya.
LEFT Nancy Dickins’ group in Rovinji, Croatia. BELOW Matt Boethin, Judy Allen, Joan Lewis & Jonathan
Lewis in Florence enjoying a private tour with Absolute Italy while on an Oceania Cruise.
MIDDLE LEFT Nancy Cahall, Judith VanGinkel,
Chris Harris, Kathy Beechem & Nancy Miller on a girls’ trip to Croatia.
TOP RIGHT Brian & Amy Henderson marrying in
Hawaii.
TOP LEFT Happy honeymooners Craig & Rae Story
at the Four Seasons in Bora Bora.
LEFT Elaine Kelly & Nick Green on their honey-
mooning in Turkey.
ABOVE The Witcher family at Disney World.
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POE GO | SUMMER 2015
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF POE TRAVEL
BELOW RIGHT The Cobb family with a special new friend at Ol Malo House. LEFT Nancy Phillips & daughter Laura Rawlings
in Nairobi.
BOTTOM RIGHT The Maurellis cuddle up with a new friend on their tour of Asia. BELOW LEFT Hardwick and Kirby Caldwell with
Africa House.
BOTTOM LEFT Jack & Nan Ellen East stop in
Amsterdam while on Viking’s Grand European Tour).
ABOVE Kira Johnson jumping for joy in Granada. TOP RIGHT Beth Walter on AMAwaterways’
Christmas Time Cruise (Prague). RIGHT The Woods in Turkey.
BELOW Sophia Gilliatt and her new friend Waruna
in Sri Lanka.
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PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID LITTLE ROCK, AR PERMIT 195
915 Cumberland P.O. Box 2576 Little Rock, AR 72203 USA goaway@poetravel.com www.poetravel.com 800-727-1960 501-376-4171
We should not get too accustomed to our maps and atlases; things sure change fast. Match the old names with the new! 1. Leopoldville 2. Smyrna 3. Jesselton 4. Hot Springs 5. Karl Marx Stadt 6. Breslau 7. Wilno 8. Lemberg 9. Calcutta 10. Stalingrad 11. Saigon 12. Ciudad Trujillo 13. Salisbury 14. San Sebastian 15. Canton
1. Santo Domingo 2. Guangchow 3. Truth or Consequences 4. Wroclaw 5. Vilnius 6. Lviv 7. Kinshasa 8. Kota Kinabalu 9. Donostia 10. Harare 11. Kolkata 12. Volgagrad  13. Ho Chi Minh City 14. Chemnitz 15. Izmir
Email your answers to kwyrick@poetravel.com by September 30, 2015 to win a free travel consultation!