喝著英國人在紐西蘭釀的葡萄酒，想到的是「自我感覺良 好」這六字真言。 Sam Weaver是英國人，家鄉在我們不太認識的西中部小鎮 Church Pulverbatch，當地人稱之為Churton，Sam亦以此給他 在紐西蘭的酒莊命名，Churton亦算是我們所認識的、最具英國 味的紐西蘭Marlborough酒莊。 雖然釀酒前曾在倫敦經營葡萄酒貿易多年，Sam直到今天 仍以農夫自居，1992年尋得在Waihopai與Omaka山谷間、面向 東北的200米小高原開創酒莊，全是家族遺傳的農夫天賦使然。 整個Marlborough地區都在釀造Sauvignon Blanc及Pinot Noir，有些也如Sam Weaver般採全天然Biodynamic釀製，但 Churton的Sauvignon Blanc與Pinot Noir像是有點不一樣的味 兒，前者的熱帶水果味沒那麼熱帶，後者的皮革味又沒那麼皮革 呢！或許正如他那深入淺出的細意分析：普遍Marlborough酒莊 葡萄球園都位處平原，鮮見在200米之上，加上Churton面向東 北所汲取的陽光較為含蓄，形成不慍不火，恰到好處的特質。
Sam Weaver is an Englishman from Church Pulverbatch, an obscure town of only 400 people in the country’s mid-west. The locals call it Churton and Weaver has adopted that name for his vineyard in New Zealand’s Marlborough region. Weaver was involved in wine trading for years before embarking on a career in winemaking, although he prefers to be known as a wine-grower. With the farming instincts he inherited from his ancestors, Weaver established his vineyard on a northeast-facing plateau he discovered in the valley between Waihopai and Omaka. Weaver says that by facing northeast, the sunlight is more demure, giving Churton wines a milder and more balanced essence. All wine-growers in Marlborough produce Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, and some even use the same biodynamic method as Weaver. But the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir from Churton are a tad different. Its sauv blanc has a subtler tropical fruitiness, while the Pinot has a more muted hint of leather.
原產自法國南部的冷門葡萄Petit Manseng， 去到紐西蘭頓變成罕有品種，由英國人釀出來 的更是新世界甜酒中的異數；Churton的Pinot Noir跟其他Marlborough Pinot Noir相比，當中 的李子味比李子更李子，但皮革味又沒那麼皮 革。 (Opposite page) Marlborough Pinot Noir; the Petit Manseng, an uncommon grape species originally from southern France, is a rare varietal in New Zealand and sets itself apart among the sweeter New World wines in the hands of these Englishmen.
Churton總面積50公頃，只有22公頃為葡萄園，其餘的都是留給大自然及用作畜牧。 Churton measures 50 hectares, but only 22 are used for growing grapes. The rest is left to nature or livestock.
ELITEGEN
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NOVEMBER
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2018
85