ListofContributors
T.Abe TohokuUniversity,Sendai,Japan
H.Ando OkayamaUniversityofScience,Okayama,Japan
M.Ardigo ` SanGallicanoDermatologicalInstitute,Rome, Italy
E.Berardesca SanGallicanoDermatologicalInstitute, IRCCS,Rome,Italy
H.Fukui FUKUIProfessionalEngineerOffice,Yokohama, Japan
M.J.Garcı´a-Celma FacultyofPharmacyandFoodSciences, UniversityofBarcelona(UB)andBiomedicalResearch NetworkingCenter:Bioengineering,Biomaterialsand Nanomedicine(CIBER-BBN),Barcelona,Spain
A.Ghofranian UniversityofCalifornia,SanFrancisco,CA, UnitedStates
D.Grabner UniversityofBayreuth,Bayreuth,Germany
J.Grice TheUniversityofQueensland,Woolloongabba, QLD,Australia
F.Harada LionCorporation,Odawara,Kanagawa,Japan
I.N.Haridass TheUniversityofQueensland,Woolloongabba, QLD,Australia
M.Hatao ShiseidoGlobalInnovationCenter,Yokohama,Japan
I.Hatta NagoyaIndustrialScienceResearchInstitute, Nagoya,Japan
M.Hayase KaoCorporation,Odawara,Japan
S.Herman DiffusionLLC,Totowa,NJ,UnitedStates
T.Himeno KOSE ´ Corporation,Tokyo,Japan
T.Hirao ChibaInstituteofScience,Choshi,Japan
H.Hoffmann UniversityofBayreuth,Bayreuth,Germany
J.Hosoi ShiseidoGlobalInnovationCenter,Yokohama, Japan
P.Huber ZHAWZurichUniversityofAppliedSciences, Wadenswil,Switzerland
O.Ifuku MaruzenPharmaceuticalsCo.,Ltd.,Fukuyama, Hiroshima,Japan
S.Inoue CosmeticHealthScience,GifuPharmaceutical University,Gifu,Japan
T.Iwata Procter&Gamble,SingaporeInnovationCenter, Singapore,Singapore
TJosephLin TJosephLinAssociates,PacificPalisades,CA, UnitedStates
F.Kanda ShiseidoGlobalInnovationCenter,Yokohama,Japan
K.Kikuchi DepartmentofDermatology,TohokuUniversity GraduateSchoolofMedicine,Sendai,Japan
J.Kishimoto ShiseidoGlobalInnovationCenter,Yokohama, Kanagawa,Japan
T.Kitano OHNO&PARTNERS,Tokyo,Japan
H.Kojima NationalInstituteofHealthSciences(NIHS), Tokyo,Japan
Y.Konno KOSE ´ Corporation,Tokyo,Japan
J.Koyama ShiseidoGlobalInnovationCenter,Yokohama, Japan
V.R.Leite-Silva UniversidadeFederaldeSaoPaulo, UNIFESP-DiademaSP,Brasil
B.Lindman LundUniversity,Lund,Sweden
R.Y.Lochhead TheUniversityofSouthernMississipi, Hattiesburg,MS,UnitedStates
P.S.Lopes UniversidadeFederaldeSaoPaulo,UNIFESPDiademaSP,Brasil
A.C.H.R.Machado UniversidadeFederaldeSaoPaulo, UNIFESP-DiademaSP,Brasil
H.I.Maibach UniversityofCalifornia,SanFrancisco,CA, UnitedStates
H.Masaki TokyoUniversityofTechnology,Hachioji,Tokyo, Japan
M.Masuda Consultant,Ninomiya,Kanagawa,Japan
M.Minamino BelleVienusCo.,Ltd.,Osaka,Japan
R.Miyahara ShiseidoGlobalInnovationCenter,Yokohama, Japan
M.Miyake LionCorporation,Tokyo,Japan
S.Nafisi CentralTehranBranch,IAU,Tehran,Iran; UniversityofCalifornia,SanFrancisco,CA,UnitedStates
N.Naito KOSE ´ Corporation,Tokyo,Japan
Y.Nakama KishiKaseiCo.,Ltd,Kanagawa,Japan
N.Nakamura KISHIKASEICO.,LTD.,Yokohama,Japan
Y.Nakazawa ShiseidoGlobalInnovationCenter,Yokohama, Kanagawa,Japan
J.Nikitakis PersonalCareProductsCouncil,Washington, DC,UnitedStates
Y.Nonomura YamagataUniversityGraduateSchoolof ScienceandEngineering,Yonezawa,Japan
F.Nozaki LinbergCo.,Ltd.,Tokyo,Japan
T.Nylander LundUniversity,Lund,Sweden;MidSweden University,Sundsvall,Sweden;NanyangTechnological University,Singapore,Singapore
N.Oguchi-Fujiwara ShiseidoGlobalInnovationCenter, Yokohama,Japan
Foreword
KazutamiSakamoto
TokyoUniversityofScience,Chiba,Japan
Ifyoupickedupthisbook,youlikelyhaveaninterestincosmeticsandyoumayfindyourselfstrugglingtofind yourspecificareaofinterestinthisfield,whichinvolvesanumberofdisciplinesincludingnaturalsciences, technologies,andevensocialsciences.Cosmeticsisanexceptionalfieldwherecutting-edgesciencesandtechnologiesarequicklyappliedintoinnovativeproductsdeeplyintegratedwithsocial,cultural,andtraditional lifestyles.Thisbookisstructuredinfoursectionstointroducetheworldofcosmeticsbyintegratingscientificand technologicalaspects: GeneralViewsofCosmeticScienceandTechnology,FundamentalResourcesforCosmetics,PhysicochemicalAspectsandFormulations,andPhysiologicalandDermatologicalAspects.
Weprovidetheessenceneededtolearnwhatcosmeticsare,frombothscientificandtechnologicalperspectives withinterwovencontentsinrelationtobeautyandcare.Youmaybeascientistseekingupdatedknowledgein cosmeticscienceandlookingforthemostadvancedandpracticalinformation,orperhapsyouareanonscientist lookingforreliableandeasilyaccessibleintroductoryinformationwitharobustscientificbasisincosmetics.This bookaimstofulfillsuchneedsbyprovidingwell-integratedcontentwrittenbytheleadingscientistsinthefield.It providesbasicscientificaspectsthatareintegratedintocosmeticsintheareasofmaterialdevelopment,physicochemicalaspectsofformulations,anddermatologicalconcerns.
Iamgratefultoallthecontributorsthatmadethisbookpossiblebyofferingtheirexpertiseonthebasisand applicationofcosmeticscienceandtechnologies.Myheart-filledthanksgotothecoeditors;withoutthemitwould havebeenimpossibletobringthisendeavortofruition.Dr.HowardI.Maibachopenedmyeyesnotonlytothe worldofsciencebutalsoconnectedmewithanewnetworkofpeople.WhenIarrivedinSanFranciscoinlate August1983,IhadnopracticalcommunicationskillsinEnglishandhesokindlyofferedtohelpmeineveryaspect oflivingandworkingintheUnitedStates.Sincethen,Howardhasalwaysbeenmymentor.Dr.RobertY. Lochhead,withwhomIbecameacquaintedthroughacolleagueatAjinomotoUSAInc.,kindlyacceptedascientist fromAjinomototostudyathislabinthemid-1990s.Sincethenwehavebecomeclosefriends.Bobhasbeenkind enoughtovisitandencouragemystudentsatChibaInstituteofScience(CIS)inJapan,afterIopenedmyownlab forcosmeticsciencein2012.MyrelationshipwithDr.YujiYamashitastartedatthebeginningofthe21stcentury. IwasaguestprofessoratProf.HironobuKunieda’slabatthetimeandYujiwasagraduatestudent,andIhave supervisedforhismaster’sdegreethesis.WhenIstartedmynewcareeratCISin2010,Yujiwasapostdoctoral scientistattheSt.MariannaUniversitySchoolofMedicineinJapanafterfinishinghisPhDatBayreuthUniversity inGermanyunderProfessorHeinzHoffmanandhadseveralyearsofexperienceinindustry.IinvitedYujitojoin metoestablishourlab,andYujinowleadsthelabaftermyretirementfromCIS.
Ifeellifeisalwaysfilledwithunexpectedencounterswithpeopleandopportunities,whichgrowintoan interwovennetwork.Inthissense,thisbookisagreatoutcomeofmylongjourney.Ihopereaderswillenjoythis bookandfindanopportunitytoexploretheworldofcosmeticscienceandtechnology,andgofurtherwiththeir ownjourneys.
MyfirstthanksgoestoEmeritusProfessorHiroyukiOhshimaofTokyoUniversityofScience(TUS)and Dr.KostasMarinakisofElsevierB.V.RegisteredOfficewhobroughtthisprojecttome.Onedayinearly2013, Prof.OhshimafoundmeontheplatformofKashiwaStation,whichmanypeopleusetocommutetoTUS.Sincewe werebothmembersoftheDivisionofColloidandSurfaceChemistryatChemicalSocietyJapan,heknewmy backgroundofworkinginindustryandacademia.Heproposedthisprojectwhenitwasstilljustaconceptbrought fromKostas.AtthemeetingwithKostasinNewOrleansattheSpringACSmeetinginApril2013,Kostasinspired metorevealthescientifictreasureshiddendeepinsidethecosmeticcompaniesandthesecretresourcesofcosmetic productsthatbringdreamstoconsumers.Myjourneystartedwiththesetwoencounters.HowardandBobguided mewiththeirexpertiseonhowtoexplorescienceandtechnologyevenfurther,andwithYuji’spatientsupportour
journeyhasfinallyreacheditsgoal.Wehopethisbookopensdoorstoourreadersandhelpsthemstarttheirown expeditions.
IamalsoindebtedtoSarahJ.Watson,editorialmanagerofPhysicalScienceandMariaJ.Bernard,project managerofScienceandTechnologyBooksatElsevierfortheireditorialassistanceandpatience,andtomyson IzumiSakamotoforhiscontributionoftranslatingmanychaptersoriginallywritteninJapanesetoEnglishwhile preservingtheculturalflavorstotheuniversallanguagejustascosmeticsitselfhasanatureofcommonalityand demographicdiversity.
Inclosing,Ioffermyprofoundthanks Tomyteachers,manyfriendswhohaveenrichedmylifeinmorewaysIcanexpress.
TomyfamilywhostoodbymeandsupportedmeinthemanyyearsIlivedintheUnitedStatesandafter resettlinginJapan.IgivespecialthankstomywifeMarikoforalltheloveanddedicationtoourfamily.
KazutamiSakamoto
November28,2016
manufacturersthatproduceandselltheseproducts.Cosmeticscienceisafoundationtoassuretheconsumersof suchsafetyandfunctionality,butthisfieldmustbeflexibleandconsciousaboutchangesineconomy,socialdemands,consumerpreferences,andvalues.Cosmeticsmustcontinuetosatisfytheirusersbyflexiblychangingto complywithtrendsandchanges.
1.1.2Science-Technology-SocietyBalanceandGeneralistPerceptionsforCorporateOperation
SinceprehistorictimeshumanshaveenjoyedusingfamiliarresourcesprovidedbyMotherNatureasmakeup. Theyenjoyedthecolorsofflowers,savoredtheirscents,thendiscoveredthestickinessofclay,theblacknessofochre andcoal,orthestrikingpresenceofwhiteclayandwereoverwhelmedbythepowerofhues.Astheyinnocently playedamongnature,theyappreciatedallthephenomenaaroundthemwithcuriosityandwithalltheirfivesenses. Intheirplayfulnesstheyfoundthattheirskinfeltrefreshingaftertheyplayedinwater,andtheymimickedanimals playinginmudandfoundthattheirskinbecameevenmorerevived.Duringcoldseasonstheyrealizedthattheoils fromfoodsthatstayedontheirhandsandskinwererathercomfortable.Theyfoundmaterialsfromnaturalenvironments,paintedtheirskinwithinspiration,playedinwaterandmud,andasthisspreadamongtheircommunityit becameacustominsociety,creatingtheoriginofthecultureofcosmetics.Thisplayfulactofmakeupwaspassed downthroughgenerationsascustomsintheircommunityorsocialtraditionsascosmeticculture.
Ashumanbeings,peopleseeksocietyandculture,bettereconomicsandpolitics,andscientifictechnology.To borrowthewordsofLincoln,weseeklife“ofthepeople,bythepeople,forthepeople.”Inordertoachievetothese desires,cosmeticengineersmustbuildtheirfoundationwithnaturalscience,pointtheirheadstowardhumanities andsocialsciences,andkeepamindsettolearnfromthesethreefields(Fig.1.1).Scienceandtechnologycanevolve onlywhenwekeepourmindsopenandaredisciplinedtoseekinformationwithinoverlookedmessagesfromevery momentofunbrokenhistorytofindprologuesforthenextgeneration.Hippocrates’swords“Artislong,lifeis short”isanaphorismtoencouragelearnerstokeeptheirmotivationbecause“medicalskillstakealongtimetomastereventhoughaman’slifeissoshort,”andthisdisciplinecanbeappliedtothescientifictechnologiesofcosmetics. Weallexistinaspaceandtime,orinterfacewherethismomentisjustatransitiontotomorrow.
Allcosmeticscientistsandengineerstodaymustacknowledgetheuniversalnatureofsciencethroughtheirspecifictargetofcosmeticstolinkwisdomandaction.Theyshouldnotbepreoccupiedbyindividualstudiesbutshould alwaysreadthedemandsfromthetimesandsociety,andstandbesidetheconsumersforawarenessonsciencebasedsocialconsciencetohelpcreateasafeandsoundsocietyforallcitizenstoenjoyandappreciate.
Intoday’ssociety,corporateoperationrequiresanoptimalbalanceofscience-technology-society(STS)asatechniquetoadjustthehighlysubdivideddemandsofscienceandsociety.Thismeansthattheartofcosmetic manufacturingmustbecombinedwithallknowledgeofrelatingscientificfieldstoconnectthedotsofoverlapping technologicalservicesthatutilizecosmeticsinsocietyintoanoverlappingsurfaceandbringthemintofruition.Usinginterfacesciencesyntax,thekeytotechnologymanagementisactivatingtheliaisonareaofbothfields(Fig.1.2).
Likeareedwithaflexibleandstrongcore,cosmeticengineersmusthavecosmetictechniquesandknowledgein cosmetologytoanswertothesociety,andalsohaveageneralistmindwithSTSbalancetoutilizetheirskillsand knowledgeinvarioussites.
FIGURE1.2 Science-technology-societybalance.
1.2.1Cosmetics:TrueNonverbalCommunication
“Thehumanbeingisonlyareed,themostfeebleinnature;butthisisathinkingreed”arethewordsofBlaise Pascal.Asanimals,ourspeciesneededtoovercomeourbiologicalweaknesses.Strugglingtoobtainair,water, andfood,humans(andprehumans)wereindirectcompetitionwithwildlife.Theyrealizedtheirweaknessesand chosetoliveincommunitiestothrivethroughharshnaturalenvironmentsandlearnedtocontrolfiretoprotecttheir habitatsovernighttocreateaveilofsecuritybetweenthemandwildlife,successfullymaintainingspacefortheir communitytosurvive.
Biologically,thehumanspeciesisknownas Homosapiens,aspeciesofanimalsthatemergedasanAfricananthropoid.Theirerectbipedalismnarrowedtheirbirthcanals,andtheyadaptedtothischangebytakingofftheirfursand beingbornasprematurenakedapes.1 Thebrainsizeofanewbornisonlyaquarterofthatofanadult,andalthough ittriplesovertheirfirstthreeyears,theinfancyof H.sapiens islongandneedslongparenting.Wearedestinedas neoteniesorpedomorphicbeings,andneedalongperiodtomature.Asneotenies,ourbodieshaveplasticitywhere theycanflexiblyadjustdependingonexperienceevenaftermaturity.Inotherwords,ahumanlifeislifeoflong youthandlatematurity.
Infantscansupporttheirbodyweightandlieontheirbacksevenbeforetheycansee.Theirfacesareinterfaces withtheouterworld,andtheyexpresstheiremotionswithexpressionsandvoicesoflaughsandcries.Eventually theyrealizethattheyarebeingseen,andthefaceshiftstoasocialinterfaceforinterpersonalcommunication.“The eyesarethemirrorofthesoul.”“Eyesspeakmorethanwords.”Theseexpressionsshowthatfacialexpressionscan delivermoreinformationthanwordsasaformofnonverbalcommunicationandarethecenterofbodylanguage.
Infantsshowthemostinnocentformofsympathyandimitationbycryingwhenotherinfantscry,andastheystart tosee,theyreadtheirmother’sexpressiontomaketheirown.Biological H.sapiens learnemotions,expressionsof anger,joy,sadness,andhappiness,andlearnwordstobecomeindividualhumanbeings.Astheycommunicate withtheirsurroundingworldtheygrowintopersonswithsympathyanddiscipline.Althoughhumansinvented andequippedthemselveswithlanguage,theyneverletgoofthecommunicationwiththeirfacialexpressions.
AccordingtoMehrabian’srule,nonverbalinformation,suchastheintonationandloudnessofwords,facialexpressions,andmovementsofthehandsandbody,accountfor93%ofcommunicationandmerely7%aretransmitted throughwords.BorrowingMarshallMcLuhan’swords,“themediumisthemessage,”cosmeticsareapracticeto enhancenonverbalcommunicationasamediumwithamessagetoembellishourstature.
1.2.2Makeup:AnInventionFromthePlayfulHumanNature
Whileworkingtogethertogatherfoodanddistributingthemvoluntarily,orthroughtheirsympathynurturedby raisingprematurechildrenasacommunity,humanscreatedtheirbasisofsociety.Childrenmatureasindividual socialcitizensonlythroughtheblessingsofnature,society,andculture(Fig.1.3).HumanslivedwithMotherNature, madethegroundingsofsecuringlifenecessitiesinsociety,andthenfosteredcultureforamorecivilizedlife.They foundmorethanjoyanddelightintheplayfulnessofcosmetics,andcosmeticsbecameaculture.
Wecreatedourownenvironmentandlearnedtoliveourliveswhileexpressingoursensitiveandversatilesouls withinaninvisiblewallofsocialstructurethatdividesusfromotherwildlifeofMotherNature.Societyisavesselfor thepublic,andcultureistheproductofhumanactivitycreatedbypeoplelivinginsocietystrivingforabetterlife.
Intheirsociallife,humanspasseddownthetraditionofcosmeticsalongwithtraditionsoflifenecessitiesoffood, clothing,andshelterasarelicofculturalchangethatstillcontinuestothisday.Onlywhenhumanevolutionofboth
morphologicalshapeandthebrainwerecombined,weretheywereabletocreatesocietyandculture.Thebody structureof H.sapiens evolvedintoanoptimalformforbipedalism,andalthoughtheywereweakasanimals,their brainsdevelopedsotheycouldflexiblyhandleanysituationthateventuallyallowedthemtocreatethebasisofmoderncivilizationashumans.
Whenthehumanbodystooduprighthumans’throatsbecamelongerandlower,humansgainedtheabilityfor clearvocals.Thebraindevelopedandlanguagewasinvented,andtheycontrolledtheirvocalstopronouncewords andcreatedverbalcommunication.Furlessandnaked-bornhumansfullyutilizedtheirbraintodiscoverandinvent everysingleaspectthatleadstotoday,anddevelopedallsocietiesandculturesonthisplanet.
Theuniverseisatermthatdefinestheentiretyofallmatter,phenomena,andevents,whereasspaceisliterallythe space,ortheunlimitedspaceknownasouterspacewherematterexistsandeventsoccur.Cosmosisanantonymof chaos,andisaconceptofspaceasanentiretyofthecomplexsystemoforder,andmicrocosmospointstohuman beings.Asmicrocosmosahumanbeingisaninsignificantweakbeinginthemacrocosmosandtheentiretyoftheir existenceonGaiaismerelytheresultofalargerorderofmacrocosmos.
Ontheotherhand,H.sapiensisourbiologicalnamethatmeans“wiseman,”andtheyaretheexistencethatdisplaysmultipletalentsonMotherEarthashumanbeings.Althoughthehumanbrainisrelativelylarge,itaccounts forlessthan3%ofthebodymassbutconsumes25%ofourentiremetabolism.Humanbeingsaresocialpersonswho controlthebalanceofindividualityandautonomyandgivediversitytosociety.
Therehavebeenmanyattemptstodescribethediversityandsocial/culturalnatureofhumansusingbiological taxonomy. Homoludens,or“playingman,”expressesthesomewhatfundamentalnatureofsurvival,thatouractions areonlybasedonplayingjustlikeanimals.Purejoyandinnocenthappinessisnottheonlyreasonforouractions, butthisconceptexplainsthatallofourcultureresultsfromthismotivation. Homotechnicus,or“technicalman,”and Homosocius,or“socialman,”definethefoundationsofmoderncivilization,andthepracticeofeconomic-minded Homoeconomicus andpolitical Homopolitics operatemodernsociety.
H.sapiens werenotjustintellects.Intheirculturetheyimplementedmultilateralplayfulelements.Humansfirst satiatedhungerasanimalsbutlearnedtodineandenjoyaccompaniedmeals,andfoundnewwaystocookdelicious foods,andeveninventedgastronomyasaplayfulconceptofacosmosinthestomach.Paintingskinwasarecreationalgamethatevolvedintocosmeticsasasharedritualoracustomandasocialtradition.Asacommunication medium,thecultureofcosmetics,cosmesis,andcosmetologyissupportedbythebeautyofcosmos(systemand order).
In Homoludens,JohanHuizingastates,“Playisolderthanculture,forculture,howeverinadequatelydefined,alwayspresupposeshumansociety,andanimalshavenotwaitedformantoteachthemtheirplaying.Wecansafely assert,even,thathumancivilizationhasaddednoessentialfeaturetothegeneralideaofplay.”2 Theformationof societyitselfispossiblytheresultofwhichwasoriginallyplayingandfrolickingingroups.Nomatterhowwisethe H.sapiens were,itisdoubtfulthatcommunitiesemergedforastrictlylogicalgoal.Presumablytheircustomofeating mealstogetherwasestablishedsimplybecausetheyenjoyedsharingtheirhappinessduringthemeals.Notonlythe actofconsuming,butthejoysandhappinessfromthetasteofgoodfoodortheirsatisfactionofeasinghungerwere theoriginofmeals,andnutritionandhealtharemerelyexplanationsofscientificknowledgeusedbygenerationsfar after.Perhapshumanbeingsareequippedwithaninstinctwheretheyfeeljoyinactionsthatareactuallylogical.No matterwhattheactionis,itseemsthattheoriginofallsocialhabitsarebasedonjoyfulfeelingsfromplaying.Thefun ofnotonlycollectingbutcookingthecollectedfoods,theexcitementofdiscoveringfoodsthattastebetterwhen cookedtogether,ortherulesthatmadecommunicationbetterwheneatingtogethermayhaveledtothesocialmannersorculturesofeatingmealstogether.
Cosmeticsalsofollowedthesamepathofdining.Cosmeticsstartedwithplayingandenjoyingtheactofdecoratingtheirbodies,buteventuallyspreadthroughoutthecommunityandcreatedthecultureofcosmetics.The meaningofcosmeticsasaformofexpressionthatleadstoacceptance,orthepresenceandpowerofcommunication ofcosmeticsledtothehappinessofbeingaccepted,emotionalsupport,orrelief.Andtodayscienceisrevealingthe effectsthatcosmeticsbringtothebodyandmind.
Bothdiningandcosmeticsdifferdependingoncountriesandcultures,andincurrent-dayglobalizationtheynow influenceeachother,openingthedoortoanewera.JapanesecuisineisacceptedinWesterncultures,andWestern recipesarebeginningtouseJapaneseingredients.Intheworldofart,thereisalreadyahistorywhereJapanese Ukiyoe influencedWesternEuropeart,andlikelyWesternEuropeanartinfluencedtraditionalJapaneseart.Globalizationisatwo-wayprocesswhereallsidesaccepttheirdifferencesandformanewbalance,andisanactive phenomenonofculturalinterfaces.
1.3SOCIETYANDTHEFOUNDATIONOFCOSMETICCULTURE
Inordertounderstandhowthecultureofcosmeticswasimplementedasapartofsociety,let’slookintoarather uniquecaseofthecosmeticsinJapan.Many haniwa (archeologicalremainsofclayimages)decoratedwithred makeuphavebeendiscoveredfromthelate3rdcenturytothelate6thcentury,beforethenationwasunified.In Gishi-Wajinden (“RecordsofWei:AnAccountoftheWa,”theoldestrecordmentioningJapan),itwaswrittenthat inChina,peoplewearwhitemakeupwhereasinJapan(or Wa)menwearredmakeupandhaveblacktattoos. Forancientpeople,makeupmayhavebeenareligiousandsacredsymbolfromtheiraweforanimisticspiritsintheir lifeinharshnaturalenvironments.
Duringthemiddleofthe6thcentury,BuddhismwasimportedfromChina,andwhitemakeupspreadamongthe menandwomenintheJapaneseroyalcourt,becomingtheoriginofJapanesemakeup.LaterintheSengokuperiod (theJapanesecivilwarerainmid-15thtoearly17thcentury),makeupspreadfromthenobilitytothenewruling classof Bushi (Japanesefeudallordsandwarriors,alsoknownas Samurai).The Busho (Bushicommanders)went towarriskingtheirlives,andpreparedtoshowtheirdignitywiththeirfinalmakeupiftheyweretoloseandbe decapitatedandgibbeted.Cosmeticswasawaytoshowdeterminationbypurifyingthebody,easingthespirits, anddecoratingtheirsoulswithbravery,andexpressingtheBushi’spride,theirprominenceinsociety,andselfsupport.
Ingeneral,thehistoryofcosmeticsstartedwithbodypaintingandevolvedtopartialmakeup,mostlyontheface. Humansrealizedthepoweroffacialexpressionsincommunication,andfacialmakeupbecameanimportantmediumandtoolforintimatesocialandinterpersonalcommunication.Originallycosmeticswerenotmeantfor splendororglamorousconsuming.Anditwasdefinitelynotforself-satisfactionbyboastingorshowingoff.Selfdecorationwasrecreationtoenhancejoyandtasteforbeauty,andcosmeticsisamethodtoliftourownspirits.Wearingclothes,accessories,makeup allareformsofsocialfashionthatsharpenthebodyandsoultoexpressourselves andsupportourmindsforabettercharactertohumblyreachouttooneanother,andgiveusdirectionforwise judgment.
1.4THECULTUREOFCOSMETICSANDESTABLISHMENTOFCOSMETIC PHILOSOPHY:ACASESTUDYINJAPAN
1.4.1TheEvolutionofJapaneseCosmeticCultureThroughFusionofWesternCultures
andJapaneseTraditionsof Wa
Writtenaround1000BCEduringtheHeianEra,SeiShonagonwroteinheressay MakuraNoSoshi (ThePillowBook) that“Washingmyhair,puttingonmymakeup,andwearingperfumedclothes”arethingsthatliftthespirit.Inan erawhenpeoplecouldnotwashtheirhairoften,shedescribesthattherefreshmentofwashingherhair,puttingon makeup,andwearingclothesperfumedwiththearomaofincensefilledherwithjoyandexcitementwithdelight. Evenintheoldimperialdays,makeup,sanitation,andaromawereallcombinedwithclothing,andoldarchives documentthatfashionwasforenjoyingitsjoyandfeelings.Thefoundationoftheheartofcosmeticsisplayfulness andemotionsofjoyandhappiness.
Cosmeticsspreadtocommonpeopleaftertheirsocietybecamepeacefulandaffluent.InJapan,thiswasafterthe daysofdisorderofthecivilwarera,andwhentheEdoperiod(early17thtomid-19thcentury)broughtpeacefor over200yearsfortownsfolkculturetoflourish.
Humanshavetriedtounderstandthemeaningofcosmeticsasatooltomaketheirliveshappierandhealthierand amediumforcommunicationthroughphilosophyandlogicofhealthandbeauty.InJapan,cosmeticsspreadtocommonpeopleintheEdoperiod200 300yearsago.ThescienceofcosmeticsstartedinJapanintheMeijiperiod, around150yearsagowhenthecountrystudiedfromWesternnationsasastateandpromotedscientific development.
WhentheMeijiperiodstartedin1868andJapanstartedtomodernize,thegovernmentannouncedthateventraditionalcustomswouldbealterediftheydidnotmeetthenewera,andcosmeticmethodsweresubjecttothisnew restriction.ThegovernmentdidnotshowattachmenttothetraditionofsomeJapanese Wa makeupsuchas Ohaguro, whichismakeupofdyeingteethinblack,and Kaki-Mayu-Kesho, whichisshavingeyebrowsanddrawingtheminthe upperforehead,andthesewerepoliticallydiscontinuedtoWesternizethestate.TheemperorcuthishairtoaWesternstyle,andtheempresstookoffhertoothblackening.ThecalendarwaschangedtotheWesternstandardsolar calendar,andthesegreatchangesledtocurrent-dayJapan.
Kaishuwrotethetitlecalligraphy.Thisshowstheimportanceofcosmeticscienceasaleadingtechnologyofthatage. Kosho-hinSeizo-hou (ProductionMethodsofPerfumery)waspublishedin1899,andtheconceptoftoday’sskincare andhaircarewascategorizedas Kesho-hin/HifuSetsuyo-hin/MohatsuSetsuyo-hin (Cosmetics/SkinNourishingItems/ HairNourishingItems).In1943,theMinistryofAgricultureandCommercealsopublished KoryoOyobiKosho-hin (PerfumeryandCosmetics)asagovernmentalreportoftwoyearsofresearchinGermany.
IntheMeijiperiod,underthegovernmentalpolicyfivedomesticexhibitionswereheldinTokyo,Osaka,and Kyotofrom1877to1903,andtherearerecordsthatlipstick,fragrantoils,perfumes,soap,andskintonerswere exhibited.TheTaishogovernmentfollowedtheMeijigovernment’spromotionofthesenewindustries.Inthe 1914TokyoTaishoExhibitionandthe1922PeaceCommemorationTokyoExhibitionheldinUenoPark,cosmetics werethemainexhibitionofthechemicalindustrypavilion,whilecosmeticmanufacturersopenedmanypavilions andrecordsshowtheycontributedtothesuccessoftheexhibitions.TheseexhibitionsarethefoundationofthecosmeticsandperfumeryindustryinJapan,whichwithstoodWorldWarI,theGreatKantoEarthquake,andWorldWar II,andevolvedtothisday.ThisbriefhistoryinJapanshowshowscienceandtechnologycontributedtoeconomic developmentandcreatedavirtuouscirclethatledtofurtherdevelopment,andasengineerswemustkeepinmind whatourstandpointistocreateandkeepthiscircle.
1.6SCIENCE,TECHNOLOGY,ANDSOCIALDEMANDS
1.6.1CorporateResponsibilitiesforAccountabilityinScienceandTechnology
ScienceandtechnologyplayedtheirfirstroleintheworldofcosmeticsinJapannotbycreatingsomethingnew buttostallcosmeticsbyprohibitingtoxinsasacountry.Thebeautifulcolorsincosmeticshadahistoryoftoxic materialsintheirsubstancessuchasredandwhitepigments.Today,consumersdirectlyseekinformationonsafety andeffectiveness.
Engineerstodaymustpossesstheskillsofthetechnologyofcosmeticsaswellasprovideinformationonthetechnologyusedincosmetics.Informationontechnologyisimportantforcorporatemarketingandforsociety,butthe responsibilityoftechnologydoesnotendbyjustprovidinginformation.Tothecommonaudience,scienceisdifficult tounderstand.Engineershavetheresponsibilitytoputeffortsintoscientificeducation.Providinginformationon technologyisaserviceofmarketingthatisbasedonthepremisethatthepeopleunderstandthemcorrectlyso theconsumerscanpurchasetheirproductshappily.Safetyisalsoaconcern,andweliveinanagewherenature alarmsusthattheenvironmentdoesnotguaranteesafety.Thisisalsoanagewhereinformationisfloodedoneffectiveness,oronmanaginghealthyskin,includingsuspiciousinformation.
Ultraviolet(UV)raysinduceskinagingandcanincreasetheriskofskincancer;althoughthisinformationisscientificallycorrect,itmustbecarefullyhandled.Biologicalagingcannotbeavoided,andnoteverybodywillhaveskin cancer.ThisissuerelatescloselytootherfactorssuchasexposuretoUVrays,themelanincontentintheskin,and ethicaldifferences.Aone-sidedstatementwithanimplicitbasisthatUVisevilisnotpropereducation.Thisstatementcouldevenbeafraudtofakescienceandmanipulatesomeonetothewrongpath.Therearealreadysomany peoplewhotodaymisguidedlyfearUVrays.Eventhoughtheremayhavenotbeenanyillintent,sun-careproducts exaggeratethedangerofUVtoboosttheirsales,andthesemarketingtechniquesofimplantingfearusescientificlookingrhetoricbutareactuallyindecentpseudoscience.Suchmarketingtechniquestakeadvantageofthevulnerabilitytothreatsandweakercompetenceofpeoplewhocarefortheirskinstronger.
IfCaucasiansmovetoaregionwithstrongsunrays,itisonlynaturalthattheriskofskincancerincreases.However,ifJapaneseorIndiansmovetoanorthernareaofEuropewithweaksunlight,theweakerUVrayscontrarilycan leadtovitaminDdeficiency,anditisevidentthattheriskofricketsinchildrenincreases.IfahealthyJapanesepersonlivinginJapanhasexcessivefearofUVraysandexcessivelyavoidssunrays,thiscanevenbeapotentialcauseof ricketsinchildren.Humanbeingshaveadaptedtotheirhabitatbyadjustingthemelanincontentintheirskin dependingontheUVrays,andafterlongyearsthisresultedinracialskincolordifferences.Thisisaresultofthe peoplelivingineachregionadaptingtotheirnaturalenvironmentalfactorofsunlightasorganismsoveralong period.However,moderntechnologyhasallowedustomovefromtheNorthernHemispheretotheSouthernHemispherewithinaday.Itisevidentthatifthenorthernmidwinterenvironmentsuddenlychangestoamidsummer environmentwithstrongUVrays,ourbodiesareunabletoadapt.
Justasweappreciatethewarmthoffireduringcoldwinters,welongforsunlight.Andlikefire,UVraysarevital toourlivesbutwewillgetburnedifwearetooclose.UVlightisnottheonlyvillain,andknowinghowtokeepsome distancefromtheinconvenientconditionscreatedbymoderncivilizationisvitaltoourlives.“Bewareoffire”does
notdenyfirebutwarnsustohandlewithcare.Wemustunderstandthestandpointofthespeakerandthesituation ofthewordsaspriorinformationinordertojudgeifthescientificinformationisusedasfraudulentrhetoric. Discussionsbetweenexpertscanbebasedonimplicitcommonunderstanding,buttheknowledgebetweenthe consumerswillhaveastrongasymmetry,andevenfromgoodintent,wordsfromexpertscouldleadtounexpected misunderstandingsandactions.Wemustrecognizethatcommunicationhasriskinitself.
Inmodernsocietysciencemayhavebecomeanotherreligion,wherewordsinscientificvocabularyaresometimes trustedwithoutdoubt.Asengineersandscientists,wemustconsciouslyunderstandoursocialresponsibilityand steptowardthelistenersandhelpthemunderstand,andnotparticipatewiththosewhoclaimtobescientific withillintent.Developmentofahealthycosmeticsindustrycanonlybeachievedbyscienceandtechnologythat keepsdistancefrompseudoscientificrhetoricandsupportscorrectmarketing.
1.6.2BindingCorporations,Consumers,andSocietyWithMaternalCommunication
Corporations,consumers,andsociety ifthereisnoinformationgapandequalcommunicationispossible,the communicationbetweenthesethreestakeholderswillbeawin-win-winrelationship.Theovalpatternshownin Fig.1.4 isavisualizationofthebasicsofthisidealeconomicinterchange.Inthismodernworldtherightsoftheconsumersareexpandingbuttheirinformationisstilllimited.Wemustkeepinmindthatthereisaninformationgap betweentheconsumersandcommunicateasifamotherwouldtoherchildwithmaternalcommunication.
Maternalcommunicationcanbeshownbyanegg-shapedpattern.Theinformationilliterateconsumersare shownisasmallcircleandthecorporatesareshowninalargecircle,andthesocietyformsaneggshapeinthebackground.Thisalsoresemblesabirds-eyeviewofamotherholdingherchild(Fig.1.5).Inasocietywithhighly advancedinformationcommunicationtechnology,corporationsmustusematernalcommunicationtoleantoward theconsumersandtalkgentlytomaintainthewin-win-winrelationship.Overcomingtheriskofacommunication gapisalsoademandfromoursocietyandtimes.
Cosmeticsaredistributedamongsocietythroughcorporateeconomicalactivities,butiftheconsumerneedsand scienceandtechnologyofthecorporateseedsarehealthy,theproductswillkeeptheirsalesandthemarketwill continue.Thecosmeticsindustryisafashiontofollowtheclients’changingneeds,andthischangeitselfhasvalue. Thevisionandevaluationofbeautychangestomakeanewcontextintheworldandcontinuestocreatesocialvalue.
1.6.3SoftSciencetoReadtheChangesofTrends
Fashionisnotpossibletoexplaininlogic,butisalifestyleoffeeling,awaytofeelsympathybyconversationfrom thesenses,aworldofnonverbalinstinctlanguages.Thestoryofcolor,thestoryofsmell,andthestoryoftouchall
FIGURE1.4 Win-win-winrelationshipofstakeholders.
FIGURE1.5 Maternalcommunication.
Changesinsocioeconomicenvironmentsandoverallculturalenvironmentalchangesarechangesthatleadto thestrongtrendsinthecosmeticsmarket.High-pricedcosmeticsaresoldashigh-endproductsandareacceptedas luxuries,andthentheyspreadtocreatealargermarket.Usingananalogyofsmallstreamsbecominglargerivers, thismarketspreadfromtoptobottomisknownasthetrickle-downeffectandwasbelievedtobeaprinciplein economics.However,inourcurrentabundantmarket,the changeitselfischanging.High-qualityandaffordable productsarefirstadopted,andasiftheygoupstream,high-pricedproductschangetheirfeatures,showinga bottom-upeffect.Nowadaysitiscommontoseeadultfashioninfluencedbyyoungerfashion.Intheeverchangingcosmeticsmarket,theroleofR&Distobeundercovertoanticipatethemarketchangeinadvance andbeprepared.
Themostimportantaspectofmarketinginadynamicmarketistoknowandnotmissthebesttiming.Thebest timingdoesnotonlymeanthatthelaunchisnotdelayed,butaproductlaunchtooearlycanalsowastethetechnology.Marketingdecisionsmustbemadeinadvanceofthebesttiming,andtheR&Dandmarketingcanhavea headstartandcooperatetomeetthebesttimingonlyifthecorporationisstructuredsoR&Dhastheprototypes testedandready.
Beingreadyistopreparebypredictingthefuture,andhavingenoughtimetoprepareforthefuture.Preparingis toquicklyreadthechangesinthemarketforindicationsandmeetthechanges.Inordertoanswertothemarketing demandsof“now,”theorganization’sstructuremustalwayshaveamindsetofbeingabletosynchronizewiththe projectoftomorrowandthedayafter,andconversationwithfutureprojectsinitiatethecooperationofR&Dand marketing.Scienceandtechnologyisanoperationthatrequiresthemindsetofsoftsciencetoalwaysbeonestep ahead.
Productreleasesarebasedonoperationsofresearch,development,andmanufacturing,andtheyneedsupport fromrelatingtechnologicalfollow-upservices.Technologicalfollow-upservicesareoperationsthatsupportoperationssuchaslegalhandlingofregulationsonsafetyandhealthforqualitycontrol,publicannouncementunitedwith marketing,andcustomercareaftertheproductlaunch.
Productsaredistributedintheeconomicchainaftertheyarelaunched,andcosmetictechnologycontributesto thiseconomicchain.Therearemanyeconomicactivitiespriortolaunchfromproductdevelopmentto manufacturing.Inotherwords,therearenonmaterialcostsforR&D,aswellascostsforpurchasing materialsandequipment.Thesepriorcosts,production costs,andengineeringcostsstronglyinfluencethefinal pricewhentheproductpricesaredesignedtomeetconsumerdemands.R&Disaprocedurepriortomarketing, soitisvitalthatthemarketingpoliciesareutilizedinthisprocedure.Goodproductsdonotalways deserveahighprice.Productscanonlybewidelydistributedinsocietywhentheacceptablecostlimitiswell managed.
Evenifanappropriatepriceisset,marketexpansionwillalwayshavearisk.Thebestwaytohandle suchrisksistothink,try,andimprovebasedonexperiencewhilemovingforwardandexpanding.Assuming thattheultimatetargetofthemarketsizeis100,thefirststepisatrialbasedonamarketsizeof10to testthehypothesis,andafterfindingandsolvingtheproblems,therisksofexpandingshouldbeeliminated inamarketsizeof30toreachtheultimategoal,ariskmanagementstrategyofmarketexpansioncalled1030-100.
Cosmeticsareproductswhereemotionalandmentalvaluehavemoreweightthanscientificfunctionality.The customersarenotjustconsumers,butarecosmeticuserswholovetheprocessandeffectsofusingcosmetics.Cosmeticsareamediumandtoolforsocialcommunication.Wemustbeconsistentwithcustomer-focusedmarketing toputourvaluesincustomersfirst.Fromascientificpointo fview,customer-focusedmarketingiscontinuingto createcustomersatisfaction,makesaleseasierforthecompany,andcontributetodevelopingproductsthatsell themselves.Foodproductshavealreadyreachedastageofcookingandgastronomybeyondhungerandthescienceofnutrition.
Thefutureofthescienceandtechnologyofcosmeticsreliesonknowledgeofunderstandingthingsratherthan objectstoproposeauniquesellingpropositionasnewdifferentiatingcosmetics.IntheUnitedStates,thecampaign bytheindustrygroupCTFA(CosmeticToiletryandFragranceAssociation)andgovernmentalFoodandDrug Administrationof“LookGood,FeelBetter”hasalreadyhelpedcancerpatients.Ihopethenextgenerationof cosmeticengineersandresearchersreadingthisbookwillhaveamindsettounderstandthingsandbegeneralists withaflexiblecorebasedonscience,andembracetheideasofsoftsciencewithasensitiveandrichperspective. Timeismoney.Slowandsteady, Wearetomorrow’spast.Passontodaytotomorrow, Thefutureisthepastinpreparation.Andbeprepared.
References
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FIGURE2.3 TrendsinresearchfieldsofarticlespresentedatIFSCCCongresses.OccurrencerateofKOSMET-controlledterms(SH).
2.4.1AnOverviewofAward-WinningPapers
EversincethefirstIFSCCAwardwasgrantedatthe9thIFSCCCongressinBostonbackin1970,duringthe 46yearsupuntilthemostrecentIFSCCCongressinOrlando,USA(2016),atotalof80papersassummarizedin Table2.1 havebeenpresentedwithanawardfortheiroutstandingcontributiontothecosmeticindustry. Lookingataward-winningpapersbysocietiestowhichthefirstauthorsbelong,themajorityofthemarefrom Japan,France,Germany,andtheUnitedStates,i.e.,majorIFSCCsocietieswithlargememberships(Fig.2.4).
Outofthe80papers,40wereonskinbiology(almostone-half),and19onformulation,constitutingalmosta quarterofthefractionpie.Therestcanbecategorizedintodevelopmentofnewingredients,hair-relatedstudies, andpsychologicalaspectsofcosmetics(Fig.2.5).The40papersonskinbiologyconsistof27basicdermatological papersand13evaluativestudiessuchasskinmeasurement.
2.4.2SkinBiology
Whenthe40papersonskinbiologywerebrokendownintotheorgansthattheyaretargeting,itisapparentas shownin Table2.2 thatavastmajorityof22paperswereontheepidermis.Locatedastheoutermostlayeroftheskin wherecosmeticscomeintodirectcontact,notsurprisingly,theepidermiswasconsideredanaccessibleresearch targetbymanyresearchersoveralongperiodoftime(Fig.2.6).
2.4.2.1MoistureintheStratumCorneum
AnattempttomeasuremoisturecontentintheskinhasbeenreportedattheIFSCCCongressinLondon(Paper no.5:1974, Table2.1),whereitwasrewardedwithan“honorarymention.”Theprincipleofthismethodis“lowfrequencyimpedance,”employedinon-sitetoolstomeasureskinmoistureatshopfronts.Thismethodmakes useofthechangesseenintheelectricresistance(impedance)ofthestratumcorneumonceitcomesintocontact withwater,andhenceoffersameansofmeasuringmoistureinthestratumcorneuminvivo.Priortotheintroductionofthismethod,cosmeticshavebeenmadeavailableforthreefacialskintypes,i.e.,for“oily,”“normal,”and “dry”skin,dependingonthesebumcontentoftheconsumer’sskin,andrecommendedaccordingly.In1984,apaper reportedattheIFSCCCongresssuggestedthefourthtypeofskin,a“hybridskin”thatisdrybutabundantinsebum content,thefindingofwhichwaspossiblethroughmeasuringmoistureinthestratumcorneumviatheimpedance method.Thepaperreceivedanhonorarymentionforthiswork(Paperno.20:1984, Table2.1).
Thereafter,thepresenceof“ceramides”withinthestratumcorneumwasrevealed,makingitclearthatthebarrier functionofthestratumcorneumplayedacrucialroleinmaintaininghealthyskin.Asareferenceforthebarrierfunctionofthestratumcorneum,transepidermalwaterlossthatmeasuresthemoisturetranspiredthroughtheskin, cametobeused.
