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Cheese

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Cheese

Chemistry, Physics & Microbiology

Fourth edition

Academic Press is an imprint of Elsevier

125 London Wall, London EC2Y 5AS, United Kingdom

525 B Street, Suite 1800, San Diego, CA 92101-4495, United States

50 Hampshire Street, 5th Floor, Cambridge, MA 02139, United States

The Boulevard, Langford Lane, Kidlington, Oxford OX5 1GB, United Kingdom

Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Details on how to seek permission, further information about the Publisher’s permissions policies and our arrangements with organizations such as the Copyright Clearance Center and the Copyright Licensing Agency, can be found at our website: www.elsevier.com/permissions.

This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the Publisher (other than as may be noted herein).

Notices

Knowledge and best practice in this field are constantly changing. As new research and experience broaden our understanding, changes in research methods, professional practices, or medical treatment may become necessary.

Practitioners and researchers must always rely on their own experience and knowledge in evaluating and using any information, methods, compounds, or experiments described herein. In using such information or methods they should be mindful of their own safety and the safety of others, including parties for whom they have a professional responsibility.

To the fullest extent of the law, neither the Publisher nor the authors, contributors, or editors, assume any liability for any injury and/or damage to persons or property as a matter of products liability, negligence or otherwise, or from any use or operation of any methods, products, instructions, or ideas contained in the material herein.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN: 978-0-12-417012-4

For information on all Academic Press publications visit our website at https://www.elsevier.com/books-and-journals

Publisher: Nikki Levy

Acquisition Editor: Megan Ball

Editorial Project Manager: Billie Jean Fernandez

Production Project Manager: Caroline Johnson

Designer: Matthew Limbert

Typeset by Thomson Digital

5. Rennet-Induced Coagulation of Milk

David S. Horne, John A. Lucey

6. The Syneresis of Rennet-Coagulated Curd

Colette C. Fagan, Donal J. O’Callaghan, Maria J. Mateo, Petr Dejmek

Section III

8. St arter Cultures: General Aspects

Eugenio Parente, Timothy M. Cogan, Ian B. Powell

9. Genet ics of Lactic Acid Bacteria

7. Formation, Structural Properties, and Rheology of Acid-Coagulated Milk Gels

John A. Lucey

10. Bacteriophages Infecting Lactic Acid Bacteria

James Murphy, Jennifer Mahony, Gerald F. Fitzgerald, Douwe van Sinderen

11. Secondar y and Adjunct Cultures

Françoise Irlinger, Sandra Helinck, Jean Luc Jany

12. Microbiota of Raw Milk and Raw Milk Cheeses

Orla O’Sullivan, Paul D. Cotter

13. Salt in Cheese: Physical, Chemical and Biological Aspects

Timothy P. Guinee, Patrick F. Fox

14. Biochemistr y of Cheese Ripening:

Paul L.H. McSweeney

15. Microbiome Changes During Ripening

Paul D. Cotter, Tom P. Beresford

Study Microorganisms

and Population Dynamics

16. Met abolism of Residual Lactose and of Lactate and Citrate

Paul L.H. McSweeney, Patrick F. Fox, Felicia Ciocia

Metabolism of Lactose in Cheese 411

to Lactate During Ripening

17. Lipolysis and Met abolism of Fatty Acids in Cheese

Anne Thierry, Yvonne F. Collins, M.C. Abeijón Mukdsi, Paul L.H. McSweeney, Martin G. Wilkinson, Henri E. Spinnler

Agents in Cheese

of Fatty Acids

Contribution of Free Fatty Acids and Their Derived Products to Cheese Flavor

18. Biochemistr y of Cheese Ripening: Proteolysis

Ylva Ardö, Paul L.H. McSweeney, Abdallah A.A. Magboul, Vivek K. Upadhyay, Patrick F. Fox

Proteolysis in Cheese During Ripening 464

19. Amino Acid Catabolism and Its Relationship to Cheese Flavor Outcomes

Balasubramanian Ganesan, Bart C. Weimer

Introduction 483

Compounds Associated with Flavor of Different Cheeses 483

Bacteria Associated with Cheese Flavor 489

Amino Acid Metabolism Observed in Cheese 494

Genomics of Lactic Acid Bacteria and Metabolism of Amino Acids 504

Summary of Current Status and Pitfalls 510

The Future of Bacterial Metabolism of Amino Acids in Cheese: Possibility of a Quantum Leap?

20. Sensor y Character of Cheese and Its Evaluation

Mar y A. Drake, Conor M. Delahunty

Introduction 517

A Definition of Sensory Character 517

Sensory Characteristics and Cheese

Cheesemaking and the Variety of Sensory

The Human Senses and the Sensory Properties of Cheese 525

Sensory Methods Used to Evaluate Cheese 527

Influence of Cheesemaking Variables on Sensory Character 537

Toward a Universal Cheese Sensory

Relating Sensory Characteristics to Consumer

Relating Sensory Perception to Chemical Components and Instrumental

21. Cheese Microstructure

David W. Everett, Mark A.E. Auty

Section V

Public Health Aspects

22. Growth and Survival of Microbial Pathogens in Cheese

Dennis J. D’Amico, Catherine W. Donnelly

23. Mycotoxins in Cheese

Alan D.W. Dobson

24. Nutritional Aspects of Cheese

Nora M. O’Brien, Thomas P. O’Connor

Lipolysis 916

Flavors 917

Catabolism of Amino Acid Side Chain 920

Miscellaneous Compounds 922

Texture 923

Control of Ripening 924

Conclusions 925

References 925

37. Blue Cheese

Mette Dines Cantor, Tatjana van den Tempel, Tine Kronborg Hansen, Ylva Ardö

Introduction 929

Microenvironment in Blue Cheese 929

Microorganisms that Contribute to Ripening of Blue Cheese 933

Microbial Interactions 939

Ripening of Blue Cheese 940

Selection of Cultures 947

Conclusions 948

References 949

38. Smear-Ripened Cheeses

Jérôme Mounier, Monika Coton, Françoise Irlinger, Sophie Landaud, Pascal Bonnarme

Introduction 955

Factors that Affect Ripening of Smear Cheeses 955

Microbial Diversity in the Smear 957

Genomic Features and Functions of the Cheese-Surface Microbiota 969

Sources of Microorganisms Composing the Cheese-Surface Microbiota 974

Pathogenic and Spoilage Microorganisms of Smear-Ripened Cheeses 976

Interactions Between the Cheese-Surface Microbiota 982

Control of Pathogens in Smear-Ripened Cheeses 983

Conclusions 986

References 986

39. Cheese Varieties Ripened Under Brine

A. Adnan Hayaloglu

Introduction 997

Definition 997

Why Brine Immersion Method in Cheese? 997

Cheesemaking Technology in Brine-Ripened Cheeses 999

Members of Brined-Cheese Family 999

References 1035

40. Pasta-Filata Cheeses

Donald J. McMahon, Craig J. Oberg

Introduction 1041 Overview of Manufacturing Technology 1041 Steps in Cheese Manufacture 1046

1054

Cheese Microbiology 1054

Cheese Chemistry 1056

Cheese Functionality 1059

References 1063

41. Cheeses From Ewe and Goat Milk

M. Medina, M. Nuñez

Ewe Milk Cheeses 1069

Goat Milk Cheeses 1078

Conclusions 1084 References 1084

42. Buffalo Milk Cheese

Sumit Arora, Yogesh Khetra

Introduction 1093

Chemistry of Buffalo Milk 1093

Buffalo Milk Cheeses 1095

Buffalo Milk Cheddar Cheese 1098

Technological Interventions to Enhance the Quality of Buffalo Milk Cheese 1099 Conclusions 1100

References 1100

43. Quark, Quark-like Products, and Concentrated Yogurts

Nana Y. Farkye

Introduction 1103

Traditional Quark Manufacturing Process 1103

Heat Treatment of Milk 1103

Acidification and Gelation 1103

Whey Separation 1104

Yield and Composition of Quark 1105

Quark Manufacture Using the Centri-Whey, Thermo, and UF Processes 1105

Separator Process 1105

Thermoquark Process 1107

Membrane Filtration 1107

Mechanism of Acid Gelation of Milk 1107

Storage and Shelf Life 1108

Addition of Stabilizers 1108

Buttermilk Quark 1108

Other Quark-Like Products 1108

Traditional Process (Cloth Bag Method) 1108

Mechanical Separators 1109

Production of Concentrated Yogurt by Ultrafiltration (UF) 1109

Concentrated Yogurt by Recombined Dairy Ingredients 1109

Composition of Concentrated Yogurts 1109

Novel Technologies 1109

Shelf Life 1110 References 1110

44.

Acid-Heat Coagulated

Cheeses

Nana Y. Farkye

Introduction 1111

Types of Acid/Heat-Coagulated Cheeses 1111

Manufacture of Queso Blanco and Paneer 1111

Paneer 1112

Ricotta 1113 References 1114

45. Brown Whey Cheese

Siv Skeie, Roger K. Abrahamsen

1117

1117

of Brown Whey Cheese 1117

1121

Background 1121

1122

1127 Crystallization of Lactose 1128

Effect of Milk and Whey Composition and Quality on Brown Whey Cheese 1130 Fortification of the Cheese With Iron 1132

1132

46. Pasteurized Processed and Imitation

Cheese Products

Timothy P. Guinee

1133

of Processed Cheese Products 1134

of Processed Cheese Products 1136

Protocol for Processed

1137 Principles of Manufacture of Processed Cheese Products 1140

Importance of Emulsifying Salts Properties in Cheese Processing 1146

Effect of Formulation Ingredients on the Consistency and Cooking Characteristics of Processed Cheese Products and Analog Cheese Products 1153

Effect of Processing Conditions on the Characteristics of Processed Cheese Products and Analog Cheese Products 1165

Parameters 1168

Salt-Free or -Reduced Processed Cheese Products 1169

and Substitute Cheese Products 1171

1176

1177

Thomas P. O’Connor, University College Cork, Cork, Ireland

Orla O’Sullivan, Teagasc Food Research Centre, Moorepark, Fermoy, Co. Cork; APC Microbiome Institute, University College Cork, Cork, Ireland

Craig J. Oberg, Weber State University, Ogden, UT, United States

Lydia Ong, The ARC Dairy Innovation Hub, The University of Melbourne; Bio21 Molecular Science and Biotechnology Institute, The University of Melbourne, Melbourne, VIC, Australia

Giorgio Ottogalli, Sezione di Microbiologia Agraria, University of Milan, Milan, Italy

Ram R. Panthi, Teagasc Food Research Centre, Moorepark, Fermoy, Co. Cork, Ireland

Eugenio Parente, University of Basilicata, Potenza, Italy

Ian B. Powell, Dairy Innovation Australia Limited (DIAL), Werribee, VIC, Australia

Harald Rohm, Institute of Natural Materials Technology, Technische Universität Dresden, Dresden, Germany

Prabandha K. Samal, Fonterra Research and Development Centre (Formerly known as New Zealand Dairy Research Institute), Palmerston North, New Zealand

J.J. (Diarmuid) Sheehan, Teagasc Food Research Centre, Moorepark, Fermoy, Co. Cork, Ireland

Siv Skeie, Norwegian University of Life Sciences, Ås, Norway

Henri E. Spinnler, INRA, Agro-Paris Tech, Paris, France

Henry-Eric Spinnler, AgroParisTech, Thiverval Grignon, France

Anne Thierry, UMR1253 Science and Technology of Milk and Egg, INRA, Agrocampus Ouest, Rennes, France

Meral Turgay, Agroscope, Bern, Switzerland

Therese Uniacke-Lowe, School of Food and Nutritional Sciences, University College Cork, Cork, Ireland

Vivek K. Upadhyay, School of Food and Nutritional Sciences, University College Cork, Cork, Ireland

Tatjana van den Tempel, DSM Food Specialities, Delft, The Netherlands

Douwe van Sinderen, University College Cork, Cork, Ireland

Daniel Wechsler, Agroscope, Bern, Switzerland

Bart C. Weimer, University of California, Davis, CA, United States

Martin G. Wilkinson, University of Limerick, Limerick, Ireland

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Preface to the Second Edition

The first edition of this book was very well received by the various groups (lecturers, students, researchers, and industrialists) interested in the scientific and technological aspects of cheese. The initial printing was sold out faster than anticipated and created an opportunity to revise and extend the book.

The second edition retains all 21 subjects from the first edition, generally revised by the same authors and in some cases expanded considerably. In addition, 10 new chapters have been added: Cheese: Methods of chemical analysis; Biochemistry of cheese ripening; Water activity and the composition of cheese; Growth and survival of pathogenic and other undesirable microorganisms in cheese; Membrane processes in cheese technology, in Volume 1 and North-European varieties; Cheese of the former USSR; Mozzarella and Pizza cheese; Acid-coagulated cheeses and Cheeses from sheep’s and goat’s milk in Volume 2. These new chapters were included mainly to fill perceived deficiencies in the first edition.

The book provides an in-depth coverage of the principal scientific and technological aspects of cheese. While

it is intended primarily for lecturers, senior students and researchers, production management, and quality control personnel should find it to be a very valuable reference book. Although cheese production has become increasingly scientific in recent years, the quality of the final product is still not totally predictable. It is not claimed that this book will provide all the answers for the cheese scientist/ technologist but it does provide the most comprehensive compendium of scientific knowledge on cheese available.

Each of the 31 chapters is extensively referenced to facilitate further exploration of the extensive literature on cheese. It will be apparent that while cheese manufacture is now firmly based on sound scientific principles, many questions remain unanswered. It is hoped that this book will serve to stimulate further scientific study on the chemical, physical and biological aspects of cheese.

I wish to thank sincerely all the authors who contributed to the two volumes of this book and whose cooperation made my task as editor a pleasure.

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Preface to the Fourth Edition

Since its first publication in 1987, Cheese: Chemistry, Physics, and Microbiology has become established as the leading text in cheese science which gives the in-depth coverage needed by graduate students, researchers and industry personnel working in the subject.

Since the publication of the third edition of this book in 2004, research on cheese science continues to be active and investigators have developed a substantial corpus of literature, which is summarised in these volumes. In recent years, our understanding of the factors affecting texture, cheese microbiota and the science and technology of local varieties has expanded greatly.

The fourth edition of this book retains the two-volume layout of the earlier editions. The first volume, which covers basic aspects of cheese science, retains a number of chapters, which are considerably updated, often by new authors and also new chapters on milk for cheesemaking and cheese microbiota are included. Coverage of rennet

coagulation and syneresis is completely revised by new authors while the chapters on cheese ripening have been updated.

The second volume (Major Cheese Groups) retains the structure of the previous editions but is expanded to 22 chapters with new chapters on cheese legislation and low-fat cheese while the revised and updated chapters on membrane technology and factors affecting cheese quality are moved to this volume.

We wish sincerely to thank the many authors who contributed to the 46 chapters in the two volumes of this book and whose cooperation made our task as editors a pleasure.

Patrick F. Fox

Paul D. Cotter

David W. Everett

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