Soviet adventures in the land of the capitalists: ilf and petrov's american road trip kirschenbaum a

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SovietAdventuresintheLandoftheCapitalists

In1935,twoSovietsatirists,IlyaIlfandEvgenyPetrov,undertooka 10,000-mileAmericanroadtripfromNewYorktoHollywoodandback accompaniedonlybytheirguideandchauffeur,agregariousRussian JewishimmigrantandhisAmerican-born,Russian-speakingwife.They immortalizedtheirjourneyinapopulartraveloguethatcondemned AmericaninequalityandracismevenasitmarveledatAmericanmodernityandefficiency.

LisaKirschenbaumreconstructstheepicjourneyofthetwoSoviet funnymenandtheirencounterswithavastcastofcharacters,ranging fromfamousauthors,artists,poets,and filmmakerstounemployed hitchhikersandrevolutionaries.Usingtheauthors’ notes,USand Russianarchives,andevenFBI files,sherevealstheroleofordinary individualsinshapingforeignrelationsasIlf,Petrov,andtheimmigrants,communists,andfellowtravelerswhoservedastheirhosts, guides,andtranslatorsbecamecreativeactorsinculturalexchange betweenthetwocountries.

LisaA.Kirschenbaumisanaward-winningauthorwhoseresearch exploreshowindividualsnavigatedthetraumasofthetwentiethcentury.Herbooksinclude SmallComrades:RevolutionizingChildhoodin SovietRussia,1917–1932 (2000), TheLegacyoftheSiegeofLeningrad, 1941–1995 (2006),and InternationalCommunismandtheSpanishCivil War (2015).

SovietAdventuresintheLand oftheCapitalists

IlfandPetrov’sAmericanRoadTrip

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DOI: 10.1017/9781009008914

©LisaA.Kirschenbaum2024

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Names:Kirschenbaum,LisaA.,1965-author.

Title:Sovietadventuresinthelandofthecapitalists:IlfandPetrov’sAmerican roadtrip/LisaKirschenbaum,WestChesterUniversity,Pennsylvania. Description:Cambridge;NewYork:CambridgeUniversityPress,2024.| Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.

Identifiers:LCCN2023032720(print)|LCCN2023032721(ebook)| ISBN9781316518465(hardback)|ISBN9781009009232(paperback)| ISBN9781009008914(ebook)

Subjects:LCSH:UnitedStates–Descriptionandtravel.|Ilʹf,Ilʹia,1897-1937–Travel–UnitedStates.|Petrov,Evgeniĭ,1903-1942–Travel–UnitedStates.| Automobiletravel–UnitedStates–History–20thcentury.|UnitedStates–Sociallifeandcustoms–1918-1945.|SovietUnion–Relations–UnitedStates.| UnitedStates–Relations–SovietUnion.|Ilʹf,Ilʹia,1897-1937.Odnoėtazhnaia Amerika.

Classification:LCCE169.I2832024(print)|LCCE169(ebook)| DDC917.304/917–dc23/eng/20230814

LCrecordavailableat https://lccn.loc.gov/2023032720

LCebookrecordavailableat https://lccn.loc.gov/2023032721

ISBN978-1-316-51846-5Hardback

CambridgeUniversityPress&Assessmenthasnoresponsibilityforthepersistence oraccuracyofURLsforexternalorthird-partyinternetwebsitesreferredtointhis publicationanddoesnotguaranteethatanycontentonsuchwebsitesis,orwill remain,accurateorappropriate.

Formyfamily

0.1IlyaIlf,c.1930.

0.2EvgenyPetrov,c.1930

0.3TherouteofIlfandPetrov’sroadtripasmapped in Low-RiseAmerica

1.1HenryFord,c.1934

6.1Viewsofthecityfromthe “NewYork” installmentof “AmericanPhotographs ”

6.2SouthfaçadeoftheEmpireStateBuildingfrom FifthAvenueandThirty-FirstStreet,2019

7.1JohnDosPassos

8.1NewYorkAutoShow,November1935,GrandCentral Palace:Studebaker

9.1BluespianistandsingerGladysBentley,c.1940

13.1Pagefromthe “Americans” installmentof “AmericanPhotographs”

16.1KennethChapman,1915

18.1AgapitoPinophotographshismotherwashingclothes, c.1920

18.2GovernorSandovaloftheTaosPueblo,1936

19.1Pagefrom “TheDesert” installmentof “AmericanPhotographs”

19.2USHighway89,2019

19.3D.C.LowreyandhisMarbleCanyonLodge,c.1935

19.4MarbleCanyonLodge,2019

19.5ShineSmith,BuckLowrey,andClydeEddy,1927

19.6Pagefromthe “Indians” installmentof “AmericanPhotographs,” includingthe “maninthe redshirt”

20.1The firstpageof “TheDesert” installmentof “AmericanPhotographs”

20.2EdRuscha, Standard,Amarillo,Texas,1962

20.3RainbowForestMuseumandgasstationinthe “TheDesert” installmentof “AmericanPhotographs ”

20.4TheRainbowForestMuseum,2019

21.1AskiptransportingworkersatBoulderDam,1933

21.2BoulderCity,Nevada,1934

IV.1DorotheaLange, “Unemployedmensittingon thesunnysideoftheSanFranciscoPublicLibrary, California,” 1937

IV.2Thevandalizedofficesofthe WesternWorker,1934

22.1Molokancongregation,SanFrancisco,1938

23.1AlexanderKaun’smodernistbeachhouse,1935

26.1CivilianConservationCorpworkerhitchhiking,1940

26.2Pagefromthe “Negroes” installmentof “AmericanPhotographs ”

26.3MargaretBourke-White, “Justsittinginthesun watchingtherivergoby” fromthephotobook YouHaveSeenTheirFaces,1937

26.4DorotheaLange, “Thirteen-year-oldsharecropper boynearAmericus,Georgia,” July1937

26.5Journalists’ hatsandovercoatsintheWestWing lobby,1937

27.1LosAngelesMayorFrankShaw,RussianConsul GeneralM.G.Galkovich,andSovietAmbassador AlexanderTroyanovsky,LosAngeles,1935

Acknowledgments

Itismypleasuretoacknowledgethemanyinstitutions,colleagues, friends,andstrangersacrossthecontinentwhomadethisroadtrip possible.Ateverystopalongtheway,Iwasfortunatetoreceivethe generousassistanceofarchivists,librarians,andcurators.Ithank BarbaraBairattheLibraryofCongress;DavidLangbartatthe NationalArchives,CollegePark;LeahEarlyattheJewishHistorical SocietyofGreaterHartford;DianeBirdattheLaboratoryof Anthropology;NancyBrown-MartinezattheCenterforSouthwestern ResearchinAlbuquerque;ChristySchoedingerColemanandNikki DonneratFechinHouseinTaos;TianeMarieattheBoulderCity/ HooverDamMuseum;TamiJ.SuzukiattheSanFranciscoHistory Center;CodyWhiteattheNationalArchives,Denver;andLouise HiltonattheAcademyofMotionPictureArtsandSciencesMargaret HerrickLibrary.

Iamindebtedtothecolleaguesnearandfarwhorespondedtomy querieswithwarmth,suggestions,documents,andencouragement: FlanneryBurke,DanielDaniloff,DavidEvans,MillaFedorava,Earl Ganz,FranHirsch,NicholasKupensky,AliceNakhimovsky,Carl Note,BenjaminSawyer,MarshaSiefert,MarshallTrimble,José Vergara,andFrancisWyman.AspecialthankyoutoErikaWolf,who offeredcrucialfeedbackandhelpwiththephotographs.Iamgratefulto allthosewhoreadandrespondedtomyworkinprogress:thepress’s anonymousreaders,ChoiChatterjee,DeborahField,StevenKim,Ali Kocho-Williams,ElizabethMcGuire,HankReichman,BarbaraWalker; andtheeditorsofthe(forthcoming) Anti-Atlas – MichalMurawski, WendyBracewell,andTimBeasley-Murray.Ibene fittedfromthe opportunitytoparticipatein Kritika’s “EurasiansAbroad” workshop andtheHigherSchoolofEconomics’ conference, “SovietEncounters withWestandEast.” Asalways,DianeKirschenbaumeagerlyreadand discussedeachchapterof “ourbook. ” NancyWing fieldreadeverything Isentherandprovidedmuchwisecounselandencouragement.Bob

Weinbergreadtheentiremanuscriptwithgreatattentionandwry humor,anditismuchthebetterforit.

GrantsfromtheKennanInstitute,WestChesterUniversity,theWCU CollegeofArtsandHumanities,andthePennsylvaniaStateSystemof HigherEducationfundedresearchtraveland,whenCovid-19made travelimpossible,defrayedcostsforduplicationservices.

IthasbeenajoytoworkwitheveryoneatCambridgeUniversityPress. IthankMichaelWatsonforhisenthusiasmfortheproject.

Sincemakingthe firstlongsummerdrivewithmyparentsandbrothers somanyyearsago,Ihavebeenfortunatetohavethebestoftraveling companions.Ithankmyfamilyforalltheirloveandsupport,and especiallyJohnformakingthejourneywithme.

NoteonTransliterationandTranslation

Thepagesthatfollowmixtwosystemsoftransliteration.Inthenotes, IusetheLibraryofCongresssystemwithoutdiacriticalmarks.Inthe text,IfollowcommonEnglishusageandomitsoftsigns – soIlʹiaIlʹfand EvgeniiPetrovbecomeIlyaIlfandEvgenyPetrov.

IlfandPetrovoftenincorporatedtransliteratedEnglishwordsand phrasesintotheirRussiantext.Tocommunicatetheireffortstoreplicate thesoundofAmericanspeech,Itransliterate,ratherthantranslatethese. Wherethemeaningmaybeunclear,Iprovideatranslationinbrackets.

InretracingIlfandPetrov’sroadtrip,Iusedboththe1937editionof theirbook OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika (One-StoryAmerica)andCharles Malamuth’s1937Englishtranslation, LittleGoldenAmerica.Ifthetranslationismyown,Icite OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika (asOA)inthenotes. IfIquoteMalamuth’stranslationwithnoorminoralterations,Iciteit first(asLGA)inthenotes.Ilikewisedrewontheserializedphotoessay IlfandPetrovpublishedinthejournal Ogonek,aswellasAnneFisher’s translation, IlfandPetrov’sAmericanRoadTrip,editedbyErikaWolf. WhenIusethetranslation,Iciteit(asART)inthefootnote.Unless indicated,allothertranslationsaremyown.

Thetitle OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika ,literally “One-StoryAmerica,” defieselegantEnglishtranslation.Ihaverendereditas Low-Rise America toavoidthedoublemeaningof “story” inEnglish.

Abbreviations

ARTErikaWolf,ed., IlfandPetrov’sAmericanRoadTrip:The 1935TravelogueofTwoSovietWritersIlyaIlfandEvgeny Petrov,trans.AnneO.Fisher(NewYork:Cabinet Books,2007).

FRUSUnitedStatesDepartmentofState, ForeignRelationsofthe UnitedStates:TheSovietUnion,1933–1939 (Washington, DC:USGovernmentPrintingOf fice,1933–1939).

LGAIl0 iaIl0 fandEvgeniiPetrov, LittleGoldenAmerica:Two FamousSovietHumoristsSurveytheUnitedStates,trans. CharlesMalamuth(NewYork:FarrarandRinehart,1937).

NACPNationalArchives,CollegePark,Maryland NYT NewYorkTimes

OAIl0 iaIl0 fandEvgeniiPetrov, OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika (Moscow:Khudozhestvennaialiteratura,1937).

PIAIl0 iaIl0 fandEvgeniiPetrov, OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika:Pis0 maiz Ameriki,ed.A.I.Il0 f(Moscow:Tekst,2003).

ZKIl0 iaIl0 f, Zapisnyeknizhki,1925–1937:Pervoepolnoeizdanie, ed.A.I.Il0 f(Moscow:Tekst,2000).

Introduction

Weknew.Therewasnoneedtohurry.Itwastoosoontogeneralize. Firstofall,wemustseeasmuchaspossible.

IlfandPetrov, LittleGoldenAmerica

Everydetailoftheadventuresoundsimplausible.In1935,twoSoviet humoristsundertooka10,000-mileroadtripfromNewYorkto Hollywoodandback,accompaniedonlybytheirguide,agregarious RussianJewishimmigrant,andchauffeur,hisRussian-speaking, American-bornwife.ThattheSovietUnionunderStalinevenhad humoristswillcomeasasurprisetomany.ButIlyaIlfandEvgeny PetrovweregenuineSovietfunnymen,thecoauthorsoftwobeloved satiricalnovels, TheTwelveChairs (1928)and TheLittleGoldenCalf (1931).Evenmoresurprisingforthoselookingbackthroughtheprism ofColdWarhostility,neithertheFBInortheSovietpoliticalpolice(the NKVD)seemstohaverestrictedthefreewheelingtrip.1

IlfandPetrovarrivedintheUnitedStatesatamomentofhopeful transition.Thefamineandshortagescausedbythecollectivizationof agricultureandStalin’scrashindustrializationprogram(theFirstFiveYearPlan,1928–1932),hadeased.Duringthe “threegoodyears ” ofthe decade,1934–1936,lifeforSovietcitizenswasbetterifnotquite,as Stalinfamouslyasserted,morejoyous.2 TheboomingSovieteconomy offeredanoptimisticcontrasttotheWestsufferingthroughtheGreat Depression.Inthearts,themethodofsocialistrealismhadyettobe

1 JonathanWaterlow, “SanctioningLaughterinStalin’sSovietUnion,” HistoryWorkshop Journal,no.79(2015):201–202;DinaFainberg, ColdWarCorrespondents:Sovietand AmericanReportersontheIdeologicalFrontLines (Baltimore:JohnsHopkinsUniversity Press,2021).TheFBIlearnedofthetripinconnectionwithaninvestigationofDonald OgdenStewartandEllaWinter,whoweremarriedin1939; “SolomonA.Trone:Internal Security – R,” 19October1945,FBI77-HQ-27252(TroneFBI).In1950,informantsof “knownreliability,” whohadknowntheirguideSolomonTrone “intimately” between 1928and1934,toldanFBIagentthattheSovietauthoritieswere “highlysuspicious” of himas “possiblyanAmericanIntelligenceAgent,” Report20June1950.

2 SheilaFitzpatrick, EverydayStalinism:OrdinaryLifeinExtraordinaryTimes:SovietRussia inthe1930s (NewYork:OxfordUniversityPress,2000),7.

rigidlycodified.Intherealmofforeignaffairs,theSovietstate ’s 1933establishmentofdiplomatictieswiththeUnitedStatesappeared topresagemoreopenrelationswiththeWest.Indeed,thetripseemed designedtopromotefriendlyculturalexchange.

BythetimeIlfandPetrovpublishedtheiraccountoftheirAmerican travels,thegoodyearshadended.TheAugust1936showtrialofStalin’s politicalopponentsproducedmorethanadozendeathsentencesanda paroxysmofxenophobia.TheGreatPurgesof1937–1938oftentargeted culturalandpoliticalelites,whoaccusedeachotherofideologicalfailings andparticipationinvastandfar-fetchedconspiraciesinvolvingforeign intelligenceagencies.Supposedlyimplementedtorootouthidden enemieswhomightorganizealethal fifthcolumnintheeventofwar, thepurgescoincidedwithmountingdistrustoffriendly,orindeedany relationswiththecapitalistworld.

Thus,themostmindbogglingfeatureofIlfandPetrov’sadventureis thefactthatin1937,attheheightoftheStalinistterror,whenanysortof connectiontoforeignersraisedsuspicionsoftreasonorespionage,their AmericantraveloguewaspublishedinboththeSovietUnionandthe UnitedStates.3 Despitethegrimpoliticalclimate,theirphotoessay “AmericanPhotographs” andtheirbook OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika (LowRiseAmerica,literallyOne-StoryAmerica)reachedawideandappreciativeSovietaudience.Thetitlereferredtothewriters’ interestin findingthe “real” Americaoflow-risebuildingsbeyondtheskyscrapers ofNewYork.TocapitalizeontheAmericansuccessof TheLittleGolden Calf,theUSpublishersubstituted LittleGoldenAmerica fortheclunky “one-storyAmerica.” Underthecircumstances,theAmericantitlewith itsgoldenspinonthelandofcapitalismwasunfortunate.Butitwasnot whollyinaccurate.TheAmericaIlfandPetrovdescribedwasatoncethe spirituallyimpoverishedantithesisofthesocialistutopiaunderconstructionintheUSSRand,evenduringtheGreatDepression,aphenomenallyrichmodelofefficiencyandmodernity.

TakingIlfandPetrov’sadventureasapointofdeparture,thisbook tellsthestoryofSoviet–Americanrelationsasaroadtrip.Whilethereisa vasthistoricalliteratureontheinterwar “pilgrimagetoRussia” that MichaelDavid-Foxdeems “oneofthemostnotoriouseventsinthe politicalandintellectualhistoryofthetwentiethcentury,” historianshave

3 Il0 iaIl0 fandEvgeniiPetrov, OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika (hereafterOA)(Moscow: Khudozhestvennaialiteratura,1937); LittleGoldenAmerica:TwoFamousSoviet HumoristsSurveytheUnitedStates (hereafterLGA),trans.CharlesMalamuth(New York:FarrarandRinehart,1937).

paidrelativelylittleattentiontotravelintheoppositedirection.4 Interwar tripstoRussiacametoseemparticularly “notorious ” becausetheywere managedandmonitoredbytheSovietstatewiththeapparentaimof persuading – ifnot “duping”– Westernvisitors,especiallyintellectuals, intosupportingtheSovietsystem.Notincidentally,thestate’srolein culturaldiplomacyhaslefthistoriansavastandcentralizedarchivefrom agenciessuchasVOKS(theAll-UnionSocietyforCulturalTies Abroad)thatoffersawindowintotheSovietsideoftheseexchanges.

Bycontrast,intheinterwaryears,theUnitedStatesgovernmenthad littleinvolvementinculturaldiplomacybeyondthebasicregulatorytask ofissuingvisas.Forthehistorian,thissituationoffersanopportunityto pushthehistoryofculturaldiplomacybeyonditstraditionalfocuson stateinitiatives(suchasVOKS)byexploringhowavarietyofnonstate actorsshapedculturalrelations.However,thefactthattheUSgovernmentdidnotguideorsystematicallytrackSovietvisitorsalsomeansthat thearchivalrecordsoftheiractivitiesarefragmentedandincomplete.

RetracingIlfandPetrov’sAmericanroadtripoffersaninnovativeand fruitfulmeansoflocatingthewidelyscatteredindividualsengagedin buildingfriendlyrelations.Toadegreeunacknowledgedintheirpublishedaccounts,thewritersreliedonimmigrants,communists,and fellowtravelersashosts,guides,andtranslators.Followingthecluesin theirnotesandletters,Iidenti fiedmanyoftheseintermediaries.Their storiesnotonlyopennewperspectivesonIlfandPetrov’sAmerican adventures,theyalsoilluminatetheunderstudiedquestionofhow SoviettravelersintheUnitedStatesinteractedwithimmigrantcommunitiesandallowustounderstandhowordinarypeoplebecamecreative actorsinculturalexchanges.

BecauseIlfandPetrovwerefamouswriterswhometwithprominent Americanauthors,artists,andcritics,manyoftheirexchangesinvolved “culture” inthenarrowsense.Investigatingtheiradventures, Iwasableto fleshoutculturalstudiesscholars ’ referencestothetransnationalnetworksthatlinkedSovietandAmericanmodernists.5

4 MichaelDavid-Fox, ShowcasingtheGreatExperiment:CulturalDiplomacyandWestern VisitorstotheSovietUnion,1921–1941 (NewYork:OxfordUniversityPress,2012),1. See,forexample,SylviaR.Margulies, ThePilgrimagetoRussia:TheSovietUnionandthe TreatmentofForeigners,1924–1937 (Madison:UniversityofWisconsinPress,1968);Paul Hollander, PoliticalPilgrims:WesternIntellectualsinSearchoftheGoodSociety,4thed.(New Brunswick,NJ:TransactionPublishers,1998);LudmilaStern, WesternIntellectualsand theSovietUnion,1920–1940:FromRedSquaretotheLeftBank (NewYork:Routledge, 2006);JuliaL.Mickenberg, AmericanGirlsinRedRussia:ChasingtheSovietDream (Chicago:UniversityofChicagoPress,2017).

5 KatherineM.H.Reischl, PhotographicLiteracy:CamerasintheHandsofRussianAuthors (Ithaca,NY:CornellUniversityPress,2018),17;BarnabyHaran, WatchingtheRed

MyreconstructionofIlfandPetrov’sencounterswithAmericancultural producers,includingthenovelistsJohnDosPassosandErnest Hemingway,aswellasRussianandJewishimmigrantsworkingin Hollywood,revealsthepersonal,multidirectional,andcontingentnature ofculturalexchange.

Thebookalsoexaminescultureinthebroadersense,addressingthe fundamentalquestionofwhetherandhowcross-culturalunderstanding happens.Underwhatconditionscaninteractionswithotherculturesand otherpeoplebecomemutuallytransformingexperiences?Workon WesterntravelersintheSovietUnionproposesthattheirvisits “triggered aprocessofintensemutualappraisal.”6 Bycontrast,muchofthescholarshiponRussiantravelersintheUnitedStatessuggeststhatsuch contactsproducedlittleself-re flection,letalonetransformation.The historianMeredithRomanarguesthatSovietvisitorsweremoreconcernedwithsignalingtheir “superiorracialconsciousness ” thaninquestioningtheirstereotypesofAfricanAmericansas “naturallygifted dancers,musicians,andperformers.”7 LiterarystudiesofRussian Americantravelogues,includingIlfandPetrov’s,emphasizethatthey reliedlesson “firsthandimpressions” than “theframeworkimposedby literarytradition.” QuotingIlfandPetrov’sassertionthatthey “glided overthecountry,asoverthechaptersofalong,entertainingnovel,” MillaFedorovaconcludesthat “thetravelersreadAmericaratherthan sawit.” Theywerelessinterestedinmakingdiscoveriesthanincon firmingtheirviewoftheirowncountryandthemselvesinthemirrorofa mythicalOther.8 Withoutminimizingthepoweroftheliterary,ideological,andculturalpreconceptionsthatpromptedaparticular “reading” ofAmerica,IfocusonthecomplextaskoftranslatingAmericanpeople,

Dawn:TheAmericanAvant-GardeandtheSovietUnion (Manchester:Manchester UniversityPress,2016),5.

6 MichaelDavid-Fox, “TheFellowTravelersRevisited:The ‘CulturedWest’ though SovietEyes,” JournalofModernHistory 75(June2003):301;SheilaFitzpatrick, “ForeignersObserved:MoscowVisitorsinthe1930sundertheGazeofTheirSoviet Guides,” RussianHistory 35(Spring/Summer2008):232–33;JessicaWardhaugh, “EuropeintheMirrorofRussia:HowInterwarTravelstotheSovietUnionReshaped EuropeanPerceptionsofBorders,Time,andHistory,” ContemporaryEuropeanHistory 32 (2023):97–113.

7 MeredithL.Roman, “ForgingSovietRacialEnlightenment:SovietWritersCondemn AmericanRacialMores,1926,1936,1946,” Historian 74(Fall2012):528,545.

8 MillaFedorova, YankeesinPetrograd,BolsheviksinNewYork:AmericaandAmericansin RussianLiteraryPerception (DeKalb:NorthernIllinoisUniversityPress,2006),7;Olga PetersHastyandSusanFusso,trans.,eds., AmericathroughRussianEyes,1874–1926 (NewHaven,CT:YaleUniversityPress,1988);E.R.Ponomarev, “Puteshestviev tsarstvoKoshcheia:AngliiaiAmerikavsovetskoiputevoiliterature1920–1930-khgg,” VestnikSPBGUKU,no.1(March2012):29–42,andno.2(June2012):26–34.

places,andpracticesintoSovietterms.9 Drawingonsourcesfromboth sides,IexaminespecificencountersbetweentheSoviettouristsandthe “natives ” asameansofassessingtheprocessandpossibilityofquestioningorevenreshapingpresuppositionsabouttheOther.

Ilf-and-Petrov

IlyaIlfandEvgenyPetrovsharedrootsinOdesa,abustling,cosmopolitanportontheBlackSea.TheonlycityintheempiretowhichJews couldmovewithoutspecialpermission,Odesahadareputationfor rogues,wit,andirreverence.10 Ilf,bornIlyaArnoldovichFainzilbergin 1897,wasJewish,thesonofabankclerk.Petrov,bornEvgenyPetrovich Kataevin1903,camefrommoreelevatedcircumstancesasthesonofa lycéeteacher.HetookthepennamePetrovtodistinguishhimselffrom hisolderbrotherValentinKataev,alreadyanestablishedwriter.In1923, IlfandPetrovmovedseparatelytoMoscow,wherebotheventually becamewritersat Gudok (TheSteamWhistle),therailwayworkers’ newspaperthatemployedKataevandotherwriterswhobecamemajor literary figures:IsaacBabel,MikhailBulgakov,andYuriOlesha.11 Thewritersbegantheirpartnershipin1927.AccordingtoKataev,he proposedthetreasurehuntstorythatbecametheir firstcollaboration, TheTwelveChairs,across-countrysearchfordiamondshiddeninoneof twelvediningroomchairsdispersedbytheRevolution. IlfandPetrov, writingeachsentencetogether,quickly finishedthenovel.Itwasan immediatesuccessamongreaders,whotooktoitshero,the “smooth operator” OstapBender.Outtomakeafortuneinthenotfullysocialist Russiaofthe1920s,Bendergothisthroatcutattheendofthestory.But theconmanprovedsopopularthatIlfandPetrovresurrectedhimfor theirsecondnovel, TheLittleGoldenCalf,whichtookBenderonanother roadtrip.ThistimeheandhissidekicksstalkedanundergroundSoviet

9 EleonoryGilburd, ToSeeParisandDie:TheSovietLivesofWesternCulture (Cambridge, MA:BelknapPressofHarvardUniversityPress,2018),9–12.

10 JarrodTanny, CityofRoguesandSchnorrers:Russia’sJewsandtheMythofOdessa (Bloomington:IndianaUniversityPress,2011);RoshannaSylvester, TalesofOld Odessa:CrimeandCivilityinaCityofThieves (DeKalb:NorthernIllinoisUniversity Press,2005).

11 BiographicalmaterialfromAliceNakhimovsky, “HowtheSovietsSolvedtheJewish Question:TheIl0 f-PetrovNovelsandIl0 f’sJewishStories,” Symposium 53(January 1999):94–96;AlexandraIl0 f, “Foreword,” inIl0 iaIl0 fandEvgeniiPetrov, TheTwelve Chairs:ANovel,trans.AnneO.Fisher(Evanston,IL:NorthwesternUniversityPress, 2011),xi–xxvi;MikhailOdesskiiandDavidFel0 dman, “Kommentarii,” inIl0 iaIl0 fand EvgeniiPetrov, Dvenadstat0 stul0 ev (Moscow:Vagrius,1999),444–541.

Figure0.1IlyaIlfreadingthebook The12Chairs, c.1930.Eleazar Langman.WikimediaCommons

millionaire,whoserichesBenderhopedtoappropriate.(Figures0.1 and 0.2)

Thus,thewritersbecamethemuch-lovedsingleentityIlf-and-Petrov. Bytheearly1990s,printrunsoftheirnovelsrantoover40million copies 12 Inthe1930s,Englishtranslationsfoundenthusiasticreaders intheUnitedStates.WhenIlfandPetrovmetUptonSinclair,hetold themthat “hehadneverlaughedharderthanwhenreading TheLittle GoldenCalf.”13 IntheUnitedStates,thetwowritersweresometimes referredtoasthe “SovietMarkTwain.” Theyseemedtoappreciatethe ironyofthenicknameandplayeduptheirkinshipwiththeAmerican

12 LesleyMilne, HowTheyLaughed:ZoshchenkoandtheIlf–PetrovPartnership (Birmingham: CentreforRussianandEastEuropeanStudies,2003),127–28.

13 Il0 f,22December1935,inIl0 iaIl0 fandEvgeniiPetrov, OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika:Pis0 maiz Ameriki,ed.A.I.Il0 f(Moscow:Tekst,2003)(hereafterPIA),476; DiamondstoSitOn: ARussianComedyofErrors,trans.ElizabethHillandDorisMundie(NewYork:Harper &Bros.,1930); TheLittleGoldenCalf,trans.CharlesMalamuth(NewYork:Farrarand Rinehart,1932).

Figure0.2EvgenyPetrovreadingtheEnglisheditionof TheLittle GoldenCalf,c.1930.EleazarLangman.WikimediaCommons.

funnyman.14 Viaaninterpreter,Petrovtoldreportersfromthe New Yorker that “Itisbecauselifeissotragicalthatwewritefunnybooks.” Hismentionofthepair’svisitthepreviousdaytotheMarkTwainhouse inHartford,Connecticut,promptedagrinningIlf,themorereserved andsardonicofthetwo,tochimeinwiththeassertion “thatMarkTwain hadaverytragicallife.Dark,gloomy.”15

14 ErikaWolf, “Introduction,” inErikaWolf,ed., IlfandPetrov’sAmericanRoadTrip:The 1935TravelogueofTwoSovietWritersIlyaIlfandEvgenyPetrov,trans.AnneO.Fisher (NewYork:CabinetBooks,2007)(hereafterART),xiii.

15 A.J.LieblingandHaroldRoss, “SovietFunnyMen,” NewYorker, 9November1935,13.

BythetimeIlfandPetrovcametoAmerica,theheydayofSoviet satirewaspassing 16 Whenthereportersfromthe NewYorker,Harold RossandA.J.Liebling,wonderedwhethertheSecondFive-Year Plan “hadanythingtosayabouthumor,” Petrovresponded, “ithasn’t.” Atthesametime,RossandLieblingreportedthatbothauthors were “somewhatconcerned” byCommissarofEnlightenmentAnatoly Lunacharsky’swarningthatatsomepointtherewouldbeno “imperfections” lefttosatirizeintheSovietUnion.Tothequestionofwhatthe writerswoulddothen, “Petrovsaidthattherewouldalwaysremainsome material:standardstufflikemothers-in-laws.” ButAmericawasadifferentstory.IntheUnitedStatestheycoulddescribe “rogues,swindlers, andotherraffishcharacters” totheirhearts’ content.17

Asitturnedout,IlfandPetrov’sAmericanroadtripwastheirlast majorcollaboration.Ilf,whomthe NewYorker pro filedescribedas “gaunt,” wasillwithtuberculosis.HediedinApril1937,justasthe first editionof Low-RiseAmerica waspublished.In1942,Petrov,workingasa warcorrespondent,diedinaplanecrash.Theiruntimelydeathshelped toshieldthemandtheirworkfrompoliticalattacks.Suchattackswere certainlypossibleinthetoxicatmosphereoftheStalinistpurges,asthe authorswellunderstood.Nonetheless,thetravelogueremainedapopularSovietguidetoallthingsAmericanand,withahiatusduringthesocalledanti-cosmopolitancampaignofthelate1940s,widelyavailable.18

FictionandFact

InearlyOctober1935,IlfandPetrov,travelingasreportersfor Pravda, arrivedinNewYorkCityinstylebutonabudget.Theysailedfrom LeHavreonthe Normandie,atthetimethelargest,fastest,andswankiest shipafloat.Becauseitwastheoffseason,thecruiselineupgradedthem fromtouristto first-classaccommodation.Inletterstotheirwives,Ilfand Petrovdescribedtheircabinas “luxurious,” paneledinhighlypolished wood,withtwowidewoodenbeds,two “hugewallclosetswithamillion

16 AnnieGérin, DevastationandLaughter:Satire,Power,andCultureintheEarlySovietState (1920s–1930s) (Toronto:UniversityofTorontoPress,2018),185–90.

17 LieblingandRoss, “SovietFunnyMen,” 13–14;A.V.Lunacharskii, “Il0 fandPetrov,” 1931, http://lunacharsky.newgod.su/lib/ss-tom-2/ilf-i-petrov/ (accessed21August2022).

18 EvgeniiPetrovtoCharlz[CharlesMalamuth],4June1937;Malamuthto[John]Farrar, 7July1937,CharlesMalamuthPapers,ColumbiaUniversityRareBooksand ManuscriptLibrary,Box1.Wolf, “Introduction,” ART,xiv;AleksandrEtkind, Tolkovanieputeshestvii:RossiiaiAmerikavtravelogakhiintertekstakh (Moscow:Novoe literaturnoeobozrenie,2001);Milne, HowTheyLaughed,255–68.

hangers” fortheirmeagrewardrobes,armchairs,andaprivatebath.19 Their firstnightinNewYork,theauthorspaid $5(theequivalentof about $110in2023)foran “old-fashioned” roomatthePrinceGeorge Hotel.ConvenientlylocatedonTwenty-EighthStreetbetweenFifthand MadisonAvenues,thehotelattractedmanySovietsdoingbusinessinthe UnitedStates.Thenextday,aftermeetingwiththeSovietconsulinNew York,theymovedtowhatPetrovdescribedasa “veryfashionablearea” ofMidtownManhattannearParkAvenue,RadioCity,andtheEmpire StateBuilding.Fromtheirroomonthetwenty-seventh floorofthe SheltonHotelatLexingtonandForty-NinthStreet(threestoriesbelow GeorgiaO’Keeffe’s1920sstudio)theyhadan “enchanting” viewof Manhattan’s “mostfamousskyscrapers,” Brooklyn,andtwobridgesover theEastRiver,whichPetrovmistookfortheHudson.20 Itisnotclear whopickedupthebill.Ilf,whobrought $999toNewYork,carefullykept trackofexpensesdowntoaten-centcupoftea.Buthedidnotspecifythe costoftheroomoverlookingNewYork.21

Thepair’s firstbigpurchaseintheUnitedStateswasa “splendid typewriter” ($33),onwhichtheyimmediatelybegandocumentingtheir journey.22 LikemanySovietwriters,IlfandPetrovhadexperienceas journalists,novelists,playwrights,andscreenwriters.Theworkthey producedduringandaftertheirtriptotheUnitedStatesatteststothis flexibility.Theypublishedfeuilletonsin Pravda whilestillintheUnited Statesandsentnumerouslettershome.Ilfkeptajournalandtook hundredsofphotographs.In1936, Ogonek,somethinglikeaSoviet Life magazine,serializedtheirphotoessay “AmericanPhotographs,” whichfeaturedIlf’sphotosandtheircollaborativetext.23 Low-Rise America itselfde fiesclassification.Literarycriticshavevariouslyidentifieditasabook-sketch,literaryreportage,anovel,asatire,apicaresque, andatravelogue 24

19 PIA,Il0 f,Petrov,4October1935,422,425;P.deMalglaive, “FrenchIdeasofShip PlanningandDecoration,” JournaloftheRoyalSocietyofArts 85(16April 1937):500–520.

20 Il0 iaIl0 f, Zapisnyeknizhki,1925–1937:Pervoepolnoeizdanie,ed.A.I.Il0 f(Moscow:Tekst, 2000)(hereafterZK),7October,426;PIA,Petrov,8October1935,426,427;NancyJ. Scott, GeorgiaO’Keeffe (London:ReaktionBooks,2015),105–07;BureauofLabor Statistics,CPIInflationCalculator, www.bls.gov/data/inflation_calculator.htm (accessed8April2023).

21 ZK,1October,423,477. 22 PIA,Il0 f,11October1935,428.

23 KarenL.Ryan, “ImaginingAmerica:Il0 fandPetrov’s ‘OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika’ and IdeologicalAlterity,” CanadianSlavonicPapers 44(September–December 2002):264–65.

24 Ryan, “ImaginingAmerica,” 263–64;Fedorova, Yankees,75;MarciaMorris, “Russia: ThePicaresqueRepackaged,” inJ.A.GarridoArdila,ed., ThePicaresqueNovelin

Clearlygroundedinfact,IlfandPetrov’sliteraryproductionblurred theborderbetweendocumentaryand fiction.Theirpublishedworkoften hewscloselytonotesmadeandletterssentduringthetrip.Myresearch inAmericanarchivesandpublishedsourceslargelycorroboratestheir tales.Nonetheless,IlfandPetrovtookmanylibertieswithchronology, names,andidenti fications.Inadditiontoobscuringmanyoftheircontacts ’ rootsintheRussianempire,IlfandPetrovleftquiteabitoutof theirpublishedwork – notablyIlf’sunclesandcousinsinHartfordand thewriters’ effortstosellascreenplay.Such “refashioningoffactual material” wascommoninSovietnewspapersketches,whichaimednot onlyorprimarilytoinformreadersbuttopersuadeandactivatethem.25

WhileIlfandPetrov’spublishedworkleftoutandreworkedagreat deal,itwasnotstraightforwardanti-capitalistpropaganda.Asreporters for Pravda,thewriters’ remitwashighlightingthe “distance” thatseparated “theworldofsocialism” fromthe “thecapitalistworld.”26 Butthey werealwaysastuteobservers,attunedto,andwillingtoinclude,the perspectivesofpeoplewhostraddledthedividebetween “ourselves ” andtheOther.Havingreceiveda $300advancefromtheirAmerican publisher,whichbankrolledtheirbrand-newFordFordorSedan($260 downand $312dueintwomonths),IlfandPetrovcollectedtheir impressionswiththeexpectationthattheirtraveloguewouldhaveaudiencesinboththeSovietUnionandtheUnitedStates. 27 Certainly,they includedmanycondescendinggeneralizationsaboutAmericans:theyare loudandalwayslaughing;theylackcuriosity;theyprefertrashymoviesto goodbooks.YetIlfandPetrovalsofoundmuchtoadmireanddescribed plentyofAmericanswhodidnot fitthestereotypes.28 Theveryformsin whichtheytoldtheirtale – thephotodocumentaryandthepicaresque –connectedthemtomodernistliteraryexperimentsinboththeSoviet

WesternLiterature:FromtheSixteenthCenturytotheNeopicaresque (NewYork:Cambridge UniversityPress,2015),211–13;MarkHaleTeeter, “TheEarlySovietdeTocquevilles: Method,Voice,andSocialCommentaryintheFirstGenerationofSovietTravel ‘Publitsistika’ (1925–1936)” (PhDdiss.,GeorgetownUniversity,1987), 4–15,263–325.

25 JeremyHicks, DzigaVertov:DefiningDocumentaryFilm (London:I.B.Tauris,2007),14 (refashioning),9;MatthewLenoe, ClosertotheMasses:StalinistCulture,SocialRevolution, andSovietNewspapers (Cambridge,MA:HarvardUniversityPress,2004),26, 157,235–36.

26 OA,394.

27 ZK,18October1935,437;PIA,Il0 f,10November1935;Petrov,12November1935, 446,447.

28 MariaNatarova, “Otagitatsionnogolozugnakkhudozhestvennomuobrazu:Amerikav povestiI.Il0 faiE.Petrova ‘OdnoetazhnaiaAmerika,’” in RossiiaiSShA:Formy literaturnogodialoga (Moscow:RGGU,2000),31.

UnionandthecapitalistWestthatchallengedsimplisticwaysofseeing theworld 29

OntheRoad

Fromtheir firstdaysinNewYork,IlfandPetrovstartedplanningan Americanroadtrip.Initially,theirplansweremodest.InearlyOctober, Ilfwrotehiswife,MariaNikolaevna,thattheywouldundertakeatwoweektripwiththeSovietconsultoChicagoandDetroit,thentoCanada andbacktoNewYorkCity.30 Withintwoweeks,theirplansbecame grander:a “colossaljourney” ofmorethan15,000kilometers(9,300 miles)tobegininearlyNovember.Doingsomecalculationsinhis notebook,Ilf figuredthetwo-monthjourneywouldsetthembackabout $2,000.Petrovsketchedtheproposedrouteforhiswife,Valentina Leontevna: “NewYork,Buffalo,NiagaraFalls,acrossCanadato Detroit,Chicago,KansasCity,SantaFe,then … toSanFrancisco. That’salreadyCalifornia.Then – LosAngeles(includingHollywood), SanDiego,abitofMexicanterritory,Texas,Mississippi,Florida, Washington,NewYork.” UponreturninginJanuary1936,Ilfand Petrovplannedtotakeatwelve-orfourteen-daytripby “bananaboat” toCubaandJamaicabeforesailingforhomeviaEngland.Theeightweekroadtriplargelyfollowedthisambitiousitinerary;thepairdecided toskipthe “tropics,” likelyoutofgrowingconcernforIlf’shealth (Figure0.3).31

Whileworkingouttheirroute,IlfandPetrovtraveledaroundtheEast Coast,visitingWashington,DC,Hartford,andtheGeneralElectric (GE)headquartersinSchenectady,NewYork.Theymadethelastof thesetripson28October1935withSolomonTrone,aretiredengineer whohadworkedforGEintheSovietUnion,andhiswifeFlorence. InearlyNovember,theTronesagreedtoguideIlfandPetrovontheir journeythroughthe “real” Americaofsmalltownsandlow-risebuildings.32 Florencedidthedriving.In Low-RiseAmerica,IlfandPetrov turnedthecoupleintoMr.andMrs.Adams,retaininghisconnection toGEandherskillasachauffeur.

29 ErikaWolf, “TheAuthorasPhotographer:Tret0 iakov’s,Erenburg’s,andIl0 f’sImagesof theWest,” Configurations 18(2010):384;JeffAllred, AmericanModernismandDepression Documentary (Oxford:OxfordUniversityPress,2009),6–10,21;MiriamUdel, Never Better!TheModernJewishPicaresque (AnnArbor:UniversityofMichiganPress, 2016),xiv–xv.

30 PIA,Il0 f,8October1935,428.

31 ZK,18October,437;PIA,Petrov,6November1935,444.

32 PIA,Il0 f,4November1935,443.

Eighty-fouryearslater,withIlfandPetrov’scopiousnotesasmy guide,IundertookmyownSovietAmericanroadtrip.Eachstopalong theirroutebecameadiscreteresearchproblem,andeachvignette requireditsown,oftencreative,sourcingsolution.Itrackeddownawide rangeofcharacterswhohadinteractedwithIlfandPetrov:diplomats, journalists,anthropologists,artists,poets,novelists, filmmakers,engineers,jokers,dockworkers,revolutionaries,andafewscoundrels.Insome cases,Iwasabletocorroboratetheirstories.WhenIfoundnodirect traceofIlfandPetrov’svisit,Iinvestigatedtheircontacts ’ widerconnectionstoSovietvisitorsandSovietculture.Inadditiontopersonalpapers, thebookmakesextensiveuseofinstitutional,governmental,andcorporatearchivestoestablishtheconditionsunderwhichpersonalandcultural exchangesoccurred.Themostchallengingproblemwas findingthe ordinarypeoplewithwhomIlfandPetrovinteracted.Idrewoncommunityoralhistoryprojects,includingaremarkableseriesoflifehistory interviewscollectedin1935 –1936aspartofasurveyofSanFrancisco’s ethnicminorities.Inadditiontoarchivalsources,Ihaveemployedpublishedsourcesincludingnewspapers,memoirs,andcontemporary anthropologicalresearchtogetasenseofhowindividualsparticipated inandunderstoodculturalexchanges.

Myroadtripthroughthepastbeginswithareviewoftherulesofthe roadandlayoftheland:visaregulations,travelrestrictions,andmust-see attractions.ButIfocusontheprocessoftravel,theplannedandchance encountersthattransformanitineraryintoajourney.Mypurposein excavatingthearchivaltracesofIlfandPetrov’stripwaslesstojudge theiraccuracythantolocatetheirinformants’ perspectives.Readagainst IlfandPetrov’snotesandnarratives,theAmericanstoriesilluminatethe sharedconcernsaswellasthepreconceptionsandmisconceptionsthat shapedandsometimeslimitedeffortstounderstandtheOther.

IalsoretracedIlfandPetrov’sroadtripmoreliterally.Followingtheir abundantclues,IwasabletorephotographmanyofIlf’ssubjectsfrom virtuallythesamespotsfromwhichheshotthemin1935. Rephotographycanbeapowerfulmeansofdocumentingsocialchange. Forsociologists,itinvolvesproducingphotographsofaparticularplace, socialgroup,orphenomenonovertimeandreviewingtheresulting photographsforevidenceofchange. 33 Ilf’sphotographsarewellsuited tothistechniqueashewasexplicitlyinterestedindocumentingthesocial realityoftheDepression.ButIwaslessconcernedwithestablishingwhat

33 JonH.Rieger, “RephotographyforDocumentingSocialChange,” inEricMargolisand LucPawels,eds., TheSAGEHandbookofVisualResearchMethods (LosAngeles:SAGE, 2011),132–49.

was/isinfrontofthelensthanwhatthephotographercropped.Locating Ilf’svantagepoint,standingalmostliterallyinhisshoes,allowedmeto seehowheframedhisshotsandconstructedhisviewof “realAmerica.” InundertakingmyownSovietAmericanroadtrip,Itried,likeIlfand Petrov,totravelandobserveunhurriedly,strivingtoseeasmuchas possible.LiketheSovietvisitors,Imadethetripalwaysawareofthe difficultyofleavingmyownworldbehind.ForIlfandPetrov,the Americanhighwaysoverwhichtheytraveledwerealways “inour thoughts” Soviethighways.Similarly,forthehistoriantravelingthe highwaysofthepast,thepresentisneverfaraway.Thetravelers ’ investigationsofAmericanmodernity,inequality,racism,andimmigration inevitablycalltomindcurrentproblems.Imaginingpresent-daylandscapesasthesubjectoftheSovietauthorandphotographer’sgazeopens unexpectedalternativestoourowningrainedwaysofseeingRussia, America,andourselves. 34

34 Fedorova, Yankees,22;TimYoungs, TheCambridgeIntroductiontoTravelWriting (New York:CambridgeUniversityPress,2013),163–66.

PartI PromisedLands

In1935,asatthetimeofthiswriting,travelfromRussiatotheUnited Statesrequiredavisa.BecausetheUSgovernment,unliketheSoviet government,providedneitherguides,translators,norminderstovisitors fromtheothersideofthecapitalist–socialistdivide,themainpointof contactbetweenSoviettravelersandAmericanofficialdomwastheState Department’sVisaDivision.Thus,ImadetheNationalArchives’ campusinCollegePark,Maryland,the firststoponmySoviet Americanroadtrip.MygoalwastotrytolocateIlfandPetrov’svisa applicationsandtoinvestigatetheprocessbywhichtheyandotherSoviet citizensgotpermissiontoentertheUnitedStates.Morebroadly, Iwantedtounderstandwhy,despitedeepmutualsuspicionsthatpersistedevenafterthenormalizationofdiplomaticrelationsin1933,Soviet citizenscametotheUnitedStatesandwhytheUSgovernmentlet themcome.

Inthesummerof2018,Iimmersedmyselfinvisaapplications,policy guidelines,memosofdiscussionswithSovietdiplomats,andordinary Americans’ letterstotheStateDepartmentthatshedlightonAmerican immigrationpolicyinthe1930s.Thatsamesummer,animmigration crisisragedattheUS–Mexicoborder.Thephotoofatwo-year-oldgirl screamingwhileUSimmigrationagentspatteddownhermotherbecame thesymbolofthe “zerotolerance” policythatseparatedmigrantparents fromtheirchildren.1 Unexpectedly,Iheardechoesoftheeighty-plusyear-olddocuments,withtheirterrorof “aliens”“contaminating” the UnitedStates,incontemporaryheadlines.Parentscrossingthesouthern borderwiththeirchildren,thepresidentwarned, “couldbemurderers

1 AviSelk, “TheCryingFaceoftheUSImmigrationCrisis,” WashingtonPost, 21June2018.

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