edible
ISSUE 43 • FALL 2019
Santa Barbara
Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County
I Sea Olives Drinking the Landscape Everything But the Bird Dry Hopped Wine T E N
Y E A R
A N N I V E R S A R Y
/
L O Y A L
T O
L O C A L
Local Chefs Paired with Local Wines
WINES: Au Bon Climat, Cambria Winery, Flying Goat Cellars, Larner Vineyard & Winery, Lafond Winery, Martian Ranch & Vineyard, Melville Winery, Nielson Wines, Pali Wine Company, Potek, Riverbench Winery, Seagrape Cellars. BREAD: Bree’Osh. WATER: Water With Life Systems.
Modern Mexican Cuisine, Intriguing Cocktails, 20-Beer Taproom
214 State Street
Sun–Thur 8am–10pm Fri–Sat 8am–11pm Open for Brunch on Weekends 805 869-2820 TheProjectSB.com
fresh ceviches, mouthwatering tacos and homemade agua frescas and now offering traditional Mexican desserts at Corazon Next Door
The Project Corazon Cocina & Taproom Now Open at 214 State Street
Eat In, Take Out, Catering & Events 38 W Victoria [inside the Public Market] Mon–Fri 11am–9pm Sat–Sun 10am–9pm
CorazonCocinaSB.com
edible
SANTA BAR BAR A
®
page 8
STE VEN BROWN
STEPHANIE RUSSO
fall
page 16
Departments 6 Food for Thought
28 Local Culinary Artist
by Krista Harris
Cooking with Clark Staub by Laura Booras
8 Small Bites What’s What's New New and and Notable Notable in in Santa Barbara County
10 Vertical Verical Tasting Tasting Sun & Swell
13 In Season 14 Seasonal Recipes
Apple Avocado Salad Golden Beet Borscht Sweet Potato Cookies Classic Tiramisu
22 Edible Garden More Peas, Please
by Joan S. Bolton
26 Drinkable Landscape
page 72 2 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
LIZ DODDER
Not Your Normal Nog by George Yatchisin
2 Edible Profile 3 All in the Family at Fess Parker Winery by Wendy Thies Sell
66 Event Calendar 68 Eat Drink Local Guide 72 The Last Bite Fall’s Don’t-Miss Dish by Liz Dodder
edible
SANTA BAR BAR A
®
Features 36 I Sea Olives by John Cox
44 Drinking the Landscape
page 18
Recipes in This Issue
A Winemaker’s Existentialist Dilemma by Sonja Magdevski
Appetizers/Spreads
50 The Care and Feeding of an Avocado
Soups
by John La Puma, MD
56 Dry Wines Dry Hopped by Brian Yaegar
60 Everything but the Bird Plant-Based Celebrations for the Holidays
by Pascale Beale
PUMPKIN ILLUSTR ATION BY SAR AH QUATR ANO.
42 Olive Tapanade 29 Cucumber Gazpacho 16 Golden Beet Borscht
Salads 14 Apple Avocado Salad 63 Cauliflower, Quinoa and Herb Salad 65 Pear, Arugula and Mint Salad 65 Rainbow Carrot Salad 64 Roasted Kale and Sweet Potato Salad
Main Dishes & Side Dishes 29 Full of Life Flatbread’s Bell “Street” Corn 30 Grilled Quail with Garlic Breadcrumbs
Desserts 32 Berry Boy-Bait Cake 20 Classic Tiramisu 18 Sweet Potato Cookies ABOUT THE COVER
Avocados on a wooden board. Photo by P. Chaicheevinlikit.
4 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Beverages 27 Santa’s Whiskers Cocktail
STEPHANIE C AMERON
fall
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 5
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Diversity
STE VEN BROWN
I have been giving thought lately to what it is that makes our communities stronger, more resilient and more fulfilling. National and worldwide issues sometimes dominate our thinking; many pundits have written about the demise of the notion that “all politics is local.” News, social media and politicians focus almost entirely on national topics. But food and community is the subject of this magazine, rather than politics, and “local” is very much our concern. Krista Harris
In every issue we focus on local ingredients, local chefs, winemakers, food artisans and other members of our food community. We celebrate what makes Santa Barbara County unique and explore the diversity that is found in our 3,789 square miles. And it is exactly that diversity— found in the ingredients, in the people and in the communities—that brings such richness to the culture. Not long ago I attended a community center dinner in the small town of Los Alamos. A wonderful multi-course dinner was prepared by a local resident from India (along with a troupe of dedicated volunteers). Local wines were shared, and after dinner everyone gathered to watch an Indian film. A few weeks earlier, I was at the Courthouse Sunken Gardens for Las Noches de Ronda during Old Spanish Days. It was the evening after the tragic shooting in El Paso. During a moment of silence held for the victims, I thought about the fear that might make people reluctant to gather in large groups. And then I felt immediate gratitude for the community around me, both locals and visitors, who were there to resist that fear and to celebrate our culture, our heritage and our love for Santa Barbara. Not incidentally, bringing a picnic and sharing it with friends at Las Noches de Ronda is one of my favorite things to do during Fiesta. Is there anything better than feasting from a picnic basket, enjoying music and flamenco dancing all while surrounded by the beautiful architecture of the Santa Barbara County Courthouse? There are countless diverse and delicious gatherings and events happening throughout the year all over Santa Barbara County. I think it is worth recognizing that just as foods from many cultures can combine and create richness in our local food community, it is a diverse population that creates richness in our society. We should make room for all in our community— embracing, not merely accepting, the multiple cultures found in our 3,789 square miles and in the rest of the world.
Krista Harris, Editor and Co-Publisher
We want to see and hear from you. Email us at info@ediblesantabarbara.com. Follow and tag us on Instagram @ediblesb and #ediblesb.
6 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
edible
SANTA BAR BAR A Member of Edible Communities
Edible Communities James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)
PUBLISHERS
Steven Brown & Krista Harris EDITOR
Krista Harris RECIPE EDITOR
Nancy Oster COPY EDITING & PROOFING
Doug Adrianson DESIGNER
Steven Brown ADVERTISING & EVENTS
Katie Hershfelt ads@ediblesantabarbara.com SOCIAL MEDIA
Jill Johnson ADVISORY COUNCIL
Jordan benShea, Rosminah Brown, Katie Hershfelt
Contributors Pascale Beale Joan S. Bolton Laura Booras Fran Collin John Cox Liz Dodder Wil Fernandez John La Puma, MD Sonja Magdevski Amanda Mulvihill Nancy Oster Wendy Thies Sell George Yatchisin Brian Yaeger Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
®
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 7
small
BITES
Carpinteria
What’s New and Notable in Santa Barbara County
I
KRISTA HARRIS
magine we are taking a road trip. Let’s start at the southernmost portion of Santa Barbara County and make our first stop in Carpinteria. There are so many great places to stop for a drink or a bite to eat. If you are strolling down Linden Avenue after you’ve had that bite, you might want to check out Seaside Makers Collective (SeasideMakers. com) located at 961 Linden Ave. Filled with locally made artisan products such as our favorite vinotherapy line from Grapeseed Company as well as locally made jewelry, leather goods and artwork, this is one of the collective’s two shops (the other is in the Funk Zone in Santa Barbara). Sweet Wheel Farm and Flowers
Heading up the coast, our next stop is Summerland. We can’t think of a better place to stop than at Sweet Wheel Farm and Flowers (SweetWheelFarms.com), a delightful produce and flower cart located at 2346 Lillie Ave.
are made from some of the most well-known vineyards in Santa Barbara County. One of the most popular spots on the Mesa is now also in Goleta. The newly opened second location of Mesa Burger (MesaBurger.com) is located at 7010 Market Place Dr. Their handcrafted burgers come with a plethora of options and are quite customizable—try their daily catch to turn any burger into a fish burger. Great local brews on tap, too. Heading into Santa Ynez valley, our first stop is Buellton. Local landmark Industrial Eats, located at 181 Industrial Way, is always worth a stop, but if you want something “to go,” their latest concept, Here to Go, (HereToGo.IndustrialEats.com), makes it that much easier.
STE VEN BROWN
Montecito
Santa Barbara
Bettina
The newly opened Margerum Tasting Room (MargerumWines.com) in Santa Barbara is located at 19 E. Mason and is a must stop. This beautiful new space is conveniently located in the Funk Zone and there’s even a new public parking lot next door. Doug Margerum is one of Santa Barbara’s food and wine pioneers, and his wines 8 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
MACDUFF E VERTON
There are many new places to try in Montecito, but one of the latest hot spots is Bettina (BettinaPizzeria.com) located at 1014 Coast Village Rd. (in the Montecito Country Mart). Naturally their pizza is a must order, but don’t overlook the seasonal menu specials, and it’s a wonderful place for a cocktail or a Venetian Spritz during aperitivo hour.
Margerum Tasting Room
partnered with chef, caterer and restaurateur Conrad Gonzales (ValleFresh.com) to create a wine tasting room, event space as well as an eatery called Cisko Kid Los Alamos. The menu features Conrad’s signature tacos along with Santa Maria–style barbecue, burgers, sandwiches and salads.
Solvang
In Orcutt another local chef and caterer, Rick Manson, has reopened Chef Rick’s (ChefRicks.com), in a new location at 135 E. Foster Rd. They are serving both lunch and dinner with an ever-changing menu of appetizers, burgers and sophisticated entrées.
KRISTA HARRIS
Lompoc is known as the gateway to Sta. Rita Hills wine AVA and is home to many fantastic wineries. One of the newest tasting rooms to open is Kita Wines (KitaWines.com), located at 300 N. 12th St. Winemaker Tara Gomez produces her exquisitely balanced wines from Camp 4 Vineyard and other well-known vineyards in Santa Barbara County. It takes a lot of good beer to make a great wine, so the saying goes. So, in Santa Maria, surrounded by so many great vineyards, you might be ready for a stop at a brewery. One of Figueroa Mountain Brewing Company’s more recent taprooms is the one located in Santa Maria at 560 East Betteravia Rd., with the added bonus of being a pizzeria, too. And yes, the house-made pizza dough is made with their own lager.
Ramen Kotori
Another new place to try is in the heart of Solvang: Ramen Kotori (RamenKotori.com), located at 1618 Copenhagen Dr. Try their delicious ahi poke bowl or authentic ramen bowls (vegan and/or gluten-free ramen upon request).
Los Alamos
Let’s not forget Cuyama. It might be a bit of a drive, but once you get there you’ll be happy to find out that the remodeled Buck Stop Coffee Shop (CuyamaBuckhorn. com/the-buck-stop) features Verve coffee and is a worthy stop. You can’t miss it, right off the highway at 4923 Primero St. —Krista Harris
JEFFRE Y BLOOM
Cuyama
Cisko Kid Los Alamos
Heading into the town of Santa Ynez, although it’s not new, you can’t go too many times to S.Y. Kitchen (SYKitchen. com), located at 1110 Faraday St. There are always new menu specials and creative cocktails to try.
The tiny town of Los Alamos has a reputation for great food and many have been waiting to see what would go into the historic venue called The Station, located at 346 Bell Street. Winemaker James Ontiveros (RanchosDeOntiveros.com) has
STEPHANIE RUSSO
Los Olivos has lots of new places to try and one of the latest is the Liquid Farm Tasting Room (LiquidFarm.com), located at 2445 Alamo Pintado Ave. The interior is stunning and a great place to sample their wines or pick up something from their boutique mercantile.
Buck Stop Coffee Shop
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 9
vertical TASTING
Sun & Swell Clean and Simple Snacks It’s hard to find healthy snacks, let alone already packaged and shelf stable ones that can be packed in a lunchbox or stashed in a purse. Local Kate Flynn created Sun & Swell Foods to address just this need. Her tasty and healthy snacks (using almost all organic ingredients) come packaged in small, re-sealable bags that are perfect for on the go. Many of them, and soon to be all, are in compostable packaging, too. We tasted four of her snacks and now we don’t want to be without at least one of them in our emergency snack kit at all times.
Turmeric Snack Bites Ingredients: cashews, dates, chia seeds, turmeric These are a soft, chewy, nutty and sweet bite of wholesome goodness. The hint of turmeric adds a nice touch. This would pair beautifully with the Tropical Ginger Smoothie from Backyard Bowls.
Cinnamon Snack Bites Ingredients: cashews, dates, cinnamon It’s hard to believe that so much flavor comes from just three ingredients. There is just the right amount of cinnamon to balance the nutty sweetness from the cashews and dates. Pair with a pumpkin latte or some ginger tea.
Cacao Snack Bites Ingredients: cashews, dates, raisins, cacao, cinnamon Adding raisins and cacao gives this snack bite a different vibe. Somehow it seems more filling and heartier, and we could imagine this replacing lunch if needed. Pair with a busy day, and it won’t let you down.
Double Cacao Clean Cookies Ingredients: dates, cashews, oats, cacao A slight variation on their Snack Bites, the Clean Cookies have a slightly flattened shape and feel just a little more decadent. Pair with a shot of espresso or some hot cocoa for the true chocolate lover. In addition to these selections, they also have other flavors and Savory Snack Crisps and Roasted Nuts and Seeds. You can find Sun & Swell Snacks at local coffee shops and Backyard Bowls as well as on their website at SunAndSwellFoods.com.
— Krista Harris 10 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
F R I E N D S
•
F L O W E R S
•
F A M I L Y
•
F O O D
•
F U N
Taking a stroll at the farmers market is the perfect way to get inspired with the season’s bounty every week at one of our area’s six markets. Be sure to mark your calendar for this quarter’s Special Cooking Demo.
Saturday, November 9 Sansum Clinic Presents: Farmers Market Cooking Demos Join Edible Santa Barbara and Sansum Clinic this quarter for live cooking demonstrations at the Farmers Market by some of our favorite local chefs, physicians and nutrition experts. You will learn about making food choices for optimal health and discover new techniques for preparing seasonal offerings. Demos will be held at 9:30am, 10am and 11am.
6 Markets • 6 Days a Week • Rain or Shine T H U R S D AY S
S AT U R D AY S
T U E S D AY S
Downtown Santa Barbara
Old Town Santa Barbara
S U N D AY S
W E D N E S D AY S
F R I D AY S
Camino Real Marketplace
Solvang Village
Montecito
Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota Street 8:30am – 1:00pm
In Goleta at Storke & Hollister 10:00am – 2:00pm
(805) 962-5354
500 & 600 Blocks of State Street 3:00pm – 6:30pm
Copenhagen Drive & 1st Street 2:30pm – 6:00pm
SBFarmersMarket.org
Carpinteria
800 Block of Linden Avenue 3:00pm – 6:00pm
100 & 1200 Block of Coast Village Rd. 8:00am – 11:15am
facebook.com/SBFarmersMarket
Sansum Clinic’s health education programs are designed and conducted by board-certified physicians, registered dietitian nutritionists, registered nurses, certified diabetes educators, physical therapists and other specialized professionals. Many programs are free of charge and are open to all members of our community.
SansumClinic.org
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 11
in Season this fall Fall Produce Artichokes Asparagus Avocados Basil Beans, green Blackberries Blueberries Brussels sprouts Cabbage Cantaloupe Celery Cherimoya Chiles Chives Cilantro Collards Corn Cucumber Dill Eggplant Fennel Figs Grapefruit Grapes Kiwi Lavender Limes Melons Mint Mustard greens Nectarines Onions, green bunching Papayas Peaches Peppers Persimmon Plums/Pluots Pomegranate Raspberries Squash, summer Strawberries Tangerines/Mandarins Tomatillo Tomatoes Turnips Watermelon
Year-Round Produce
Almonds, almond butter (harvested Aug/Sept)
Fall Seafood Mussels Ridgeback shrimp Rock fish Sardines Spiny lobster Swordfish White sea bass Yellowtail
Apples Arugula Beans, dried Beets Bok choy Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Chard Dandelion Dates
Year-Round Seafood
Garlic
Eggs Coffee Dairy
(harvested Sept/Oct) (harvested May/June)
Herbs
(Bay leaf, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)
Edible flowers Kale Leeks Lemons Lettuce Mushrooms Onions, bulb
(harvested May/June)
Oranges Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Potatoes Radish Raisins
Abalone (farmed) Black cod Clams Oysters Rock crab Sand dabs Urchin
Other Year-Round
(Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)
Fresh flowers Honey Olives, olive oil Meat
(Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)
Potted plants/herbs Preserves Wheat
(Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta, pies produced from wheat grown locally)
(harvested Sept/Oct)
Spinach Sprouts Squash, winter
(harvested Sept/Oct)
Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Yams
(harvested Aug/Sept)
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 13
seasonal
Recipes
Apple Avocado Salad The fresh crunchiness of the apple and cabbage is a nice contrast to the creamy avocado. You could also add some fresh toasted walnuts to this salad to dress it up a bit for company or the holiday dinner table. Both apples and avocados turn brown after they are cut, so it’s not the best salad to make ahead of time. But you can prep the cabbage and make the dressing, then put it all together at the last minute. Read more about avocados in the article in this issue by John La Puma. Makes 4 servings 2 small apples, cored and thinly sliced with skin on 1
⁄ 4 head of green cabbage, finely sliced or shredded
1–2 tablespoons of vinegar, a fruity or apple cider vinegar works well 1 teaspoon local honey 1
⁄ 4 cup walnut oil
Salt 1–2 avocados, peeled, pitted and sliced
In a large bowl combine the apples and green cabbage. Mix together 1 tablespoon of the vinegar and honey and whisk in the walnut oil; add more vinegar if needed and a little salt to taste. Add half of the dressing to the cabbage and apple mixture and stir to combine. Place in a serving bowl or platter and arrange the avocado slices on top. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the avocados and add salt and freshly ground black pepper to the top. Serve immediately. —Krista Harris
14 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
STEBEN BROWN
Freshly ground black pepper
2 0 2 A N A C A PA S T R E E T, S A N TA B A R B A R A , C A 8 0 5 . 9 6 3 . 3 6 3 3 | S U N - T H U 1 0 - 6 P M | F R I - S AT 1 0 - 7 P M W W W. S B W I N E R Y. C O M | @ S A N TA B A R B A R A W I N E R Y
Santa Barbara Winery
L a f o nyards d Winery & Vine
6 8 5 5 S A N TA R O S A R O A D , B U E L LT O N , C A 8 0 5 . 6 8 8 . 7 9 2 1 | O P E N D A I LY 1 0 - 5 P M 1 1 1 YA N O N A L I S T R E E T, S A N TA B A R B A R A , C A 8 0 5 . 8 4 5 . 2 0 2 0 | S U N - T H U 1 0 - 6 P M | F R I - S AT 1 0 - 7 P M W W W. L A F O N D W I N E R Y. C O M | @ L A F O N D W I N E R Y
LAMA DOG
TAP ROOM + BOTTLE SHOP
fall picks
THE RARE BARREL: Apropos of Nothing STIEGL: Grapefruit Radler @LAMADOGTAPROOM
FOOD FROM THE NOOK
116 SANTA BARBARA ST. | 805.880.3364 | LamaDog.com EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 15
seasonal
Recipes Golden Beet Borscht Although this is not the traditional red beet recipe, it makes a lovely variation during the fall or whenever you find golden beets at the market. Makes 4–6 servings 1 yellow onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped Butter 1 teaspoon sweet paprika Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 pound golden (yellow or orange) beets, peeled and cut into little sticks 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peels left on, cut into little sticks 1
⁄ 4 head green cabbage, finely sliced or shredded
1 clove garlic, finely minced 5 cups vegetable or chicken broth 2 bay leaves 1–2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar Crème fraîche or sour cream, for garnish
STEVEN BROWN
Sprigs of fresh dill, for garnish
In a large Dutch oven or soup pot, sauté the onion and carrot in butter until slightly tender, add paprika, salt and pepper. Then add the beets, potatoes, cabbage and garlic along with the broth, bay leaves and 1 tablespoon of the vinegar. Bring to a boil, then turn down heat and simmer, covered, over low heat for 30 minutes or until all the vegetables are tender. Taste and add salt, pepper or more vinegar if needed. Remove bay leaves and serve garnished with crème fraîche or sour cream and a few sprigs of fresh dill. —Krista Harris & Amanda Mulvihill
16 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Visit our Tasting Rooms
BARDEN Wines, 32 El Paseo, Santa Barbara Margerum Tasting Room at the Hotel Californian Margerum Winery, 59 Industrial Way, Buellton (Sat/Sun) www.margerumwines.com
La Cocina MEXICAN RESTAURANT
ISSUE
29
RIN • SP
16 G 20
eat. drink. read. think. ding Buil d Foounities m Com
A Big ess iny M The T
ules use R er Ho o Cid n N w To ll Sma D • T H I N K of a A Taste R I N K • R E E AT
• D
WE DELIVER…
Subscribe Online Today EdibleSantaBarbara.com
Farm to Table Central Coast Baja Cuisine Happy Hour M–F 4:30–6:30pm • Dinner 5pm–close 7 E Anapamu St, Santa Barbara 805-277-7730 www.lacocinasb.com EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 17
seasonal
Recipes
Sweet Potato Cookies These not-too-sweet cookies resemble a soft scone, and work equally well as a dessert or for breakfast. 1 large sweet potato 11 ⁄ 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon cardamom powder 1 teaspoon ginger powder 1 teaspoon turmeric powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon powder 1
⁄ 2 cup turbinado sugar
1 egg 2 tablespoons butter, melted 2 tablespoons blackstrap molasses 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Roast sweet potato in oven at 400º. Bake for 50 minutes, or until soft to touch of a fork. Remove, and set oven temperature to 375º. Once cool enough to handle, remove skin from sweet potato and mash with a fork in a bowl with dry ingredients. Combine beaten Egg Salad Sandwich egg, warmed butter, molasses, and vanilla in separate bowl. Then combine all ingredients in a food-grade plastic bag, using your What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter hands to thoroughly mix the ingredients with a gentle kneading eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. motion, and place in the refrigerator to cool for at least 1 hour.
You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get Place parchment paper on a baking sheet. Dough will be gooey in tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs.
3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste
Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped onion • A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil or tarragon • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash of white wine vinegar Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional) Additional pickled vegetables (optional) Lettuce Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix until incorporated but with a still chunky texture. Taste and add 18 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL FALL 2019 2018 more seasoning or additions if needed.
consistency. Flour hands and form the dough into 3-inch cookies. Bake for 40 minutes, or until tops are browned. — Willy Carleton This recipe was originally published in Edible Santa Fe magazine.
STEPHANIE CAMERON
Makes 2 sandwiches
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 19
seasonal
Recipes
Classic Tiramisu A dish where you can have your espresso and eat it too. In this traditional rendition of tiramisu, the eggs are raw. If that is a concern, you can heat the egg yolks, sugar and cream prior to adding the mascarpone, and use pasteurized egg whites. Makes 9 servings 3 eggs, separated 1
⁄ 4 cup granulated sugar
1
⁄ 3 cup heavy whipping cream
16 ounces mascarpone cheese 1 teaspoon cinnamon Salt or cream of tartar 1
⁄ 2 cup of freshly brewed espresso
1
⁄ 2 cup brandy
20 ladyfingers, plus additional ladyfingers or biscotti cookies for the second layer Approximately 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder Chocolate shavings for garnish, optional
What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste
Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped onion • A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil or tarragon • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash of white wine vinegar Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional) Additional pickled vegetables (optional) Lettuce Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix until incorporated with a still chunky texture. Taste and add 20 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALLbut 2019 more seasoning or additions if needed.
Then whip the egg whites either by hand or with a mixer and add pinches of salt or cream of tartar here and there as you whip. Continue this until stiff peaks form. Add a small amount of the egg whites to the mascarpone mixture to lighten them and then lightly fold the rest of the whipped egg whites into the mascarpone mixture and carefully mix until just combined. Let it rest in the refrigerator while you make the espresso. Brew some fresh espresso and add it along with the brandy to a small bowl. Lightly dip the top and bottom of each ladyfinger quickly in the mixture and cover the bottom of an 8- by 8-inch pan. Add half of the filling mixture over the cookies. Sprinkle cocoa powder on top and then add a second layer of ladyfingers or crumbled biscotti cookies, sprinkle with a little more of the coffee/brandy mixture and top with the remaining filling. Garnish the top with a light layer of sifted cocoa powder and/or chocolate shavings. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours, but ideally overnight to let the flavors absorb throughout the entire dish. Cut into squares and serve cold. —Amanda Mulvihill
STEVEN BROWN
Egg Salad Sandwich
Mix the yolks of the eggs with the sugar in a large bowl. Add the whipping cream to the mixture and beat until fluffy. Add the cinnamon and the mascarpone, thoroughly combine and set aside.
FOXEN
ÂŽ
V I N E YA R D & W I N E R Y
Wines of Elegance & Balance Since 1985 Solar powered. Sustainable wine growers. Open Daily 11– 4 | 7200 & 7600 Foxen Canyon Road | 805.937.4251 | FoxenVineyard.com
wine count r y cu is ine in the heart of the Historic Arts District Fresh, local ingredients, prepared with care. Excellent wines that reflect the quality and character of our region and work in concert with the cuisine. Warm, inviting ambience with engaging service at a relaxed, leisurely pace. This is bouchon.
dinner nightly Sun-Thurs 5-9pm | Fri-Sat 5-10pm
bouchon 9 west victoria street | 805.730.1160 | bouchonsantabarbara.com
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 21
edible
GARDEN
Give peas a chance in the garden.
More Peas, Please by Joan S. Bolton
C
onsider the lowly green pea, often canned, frozen or forgotten. But give peas a chance in the garden and you’ll find that fresh from the vine, they’re tender, crisp and remarkably sweet. Whether you grow traditional English peas, crunchy snow peas or versatile, modern snap peas, you’ll be joining an extraordinary culinary experience that spans thousands of years. Indeed, in Burma, evidence of human consumption of peas was found in a cave from 9750 BC. In China, Emperor Shen Nung is said to have encouraged the cultivation of peas around 2695 BC. In Troy, peas were uncovered in tombs from 1450 BC. And in Europe, they were dried, then cooked, throughout the Middle Ages. 22 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
In more modern times, King Louis XIV, the king of conspicuous consumption, exalted fresh green peas at Versailles. Peas were among the first crops planted by British colonists in America. And Thomas Jefferson is said to have grown more than 30 varieties at Monticello.
A Trio of Tastiness The king and the colonists were most likely eating what we know today as English peas, which are shelled first. Their plump outer pods and stiff, translucent membranes are tasteless. But the peas themselves, of which there are generally 6 to 10 per pod, are delicious. Sweet snow peas appeared in Asian cuisine centuries ago, then found favor in Europe in the 1600s. These delicate peas
T H E G AT H E R I N G TA B L E
AT T H E
Open for Dinner Tuesday - Sunday in historic Los Alamos (800) 638-2466 • ballardinn.com • 2436 BASELINE
Lumen Tasting Room Wine Shop 805.344.1122
picolosalamos.com
Dine In • Take-Out
ramenkotori.com ramenkotori@gmail.com P. 8 0 5 . 6 91. 9 6 7 2
1618 c o p e n h a ge n d r i ve
ramen kotori
s o lv a n g , c a l i fo r n i a 9 3 4 6 3
Keep Saving Santa Barbara!
OPEN –THURS: 12– 7PM, FRI & SAT: 11AM – 7PM, SUN: 11AM– 6PM, MON: 12– 4 PM
388 Bell Street, Los Alamos, CA 93440 805.344.1900 CasaDumetzWines.com
gourmet olive oils & vinegars
To reduce water use & your bill: • Check and adjust your automatic sprinkler system every month.
Locally grown and handcrafted goods made in California. SolvangOliveCo.com
·
1578 Mission Dr., Solvang
• Apply a layer of mulch to increase your soil’s water retention. • Irrigate efficiently by switching to drip or watering by hand.
Tecolote Book Shop Since 1925
Rebates may be available. Call 805-564-5460 to schedule a FREE water checkup. Learn more at SantaBarbaraCA.gov/WaterWise
1470 eaSt Valley rOad (upper VillaGe Of MOntecitO)
805 969-4977 Gift WrappinG • ShippinG • Special OrderS • BOOk SearcheS authOr appearanceS EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 23
For compact, bushy pea plants, poke bits of multi-branched tree trimmings upside down in rows about two feet apart. For taller, vining types, set up trellises four to six feet tall and composed of string, twine or galvanized wire with metal, wood or bamboo posts; or wood lattice; or bird netting and stakes, all also in rows two feet apart. Soak your pea seeds in water overnight, then sow them one to three inches apart in inch-deep furrows. Sprinkle an inoculant on top as you go, to promote better germination and growth. Cover the seeds with an inch of loose soil, then another inch or so of straw, fine-textured compost or chopped dry leaves. Avoid fresh grass clippings; they contain too much nitrogen, which will promote leaves at the expense of pods. In general, don’t worry about fertilizing. Net your planting bed to thwart birds from devouring your soon-to-emerge seedlings. Water thoroughly. Keep the soil evenly moist until the seedlings are a few inches tall. Then back off watering to once or twice a week, depending on rain. Don’t bother thinning your peas. The bush types will knit together and clamber over your impromptu tree trimmings to hold themselves up. The vining types will send out tendrils to scale their trellises. They’ll cling on their own, unless you garden in wind. If so, secure the vines with twine or green stretchy garden tape.
Harvest Peas typically begin maturing in 60 to 70 days.
form thin, nearly transparent pods that are eaten right along with the barely formed peas inside. Most bear tough strings along the edges, though, that you’ll want to tug off first. Snap peas combine the best of both worlds—plump peas and tasty pods. They were developed by a plant scientist, Dr. Calvin Lamborn, who was trying to breed out bumps and ridges on snow peas in the 1970s by crossing them with shelling peas. The result was the Sugar Snap Pea, which was introduced in 1979. Both pod and peas remained crunchy when eaten raw or sautéed. Both could also be snapped into pieces to be cooked, or shelled and eaten like English peas. And with that, Lamborn created a third, entirely new category of garden pea. Today, there are both stringed and stringless varieties.
In the Garden There’s a common misconception that peas belong in the summer garden. But heat can cause the plants to bolt and the peas to get tough. Instead, grow all three types during fall and winter, when cooler temperatures will give the plants time to build succulent flavor. Choose a spot that receives at least six hours of daily sunlight, which is more sun than many other cool-season vegetables. The soil should be loose, fertile and somewhat sandy, with good drainage. Raised beds are ideal. Dig down a foot. Smack apart any dirt clods with the back of your shovel. Work in lots of wellaged compost. Then smooth out the soil. Next, give your peas something to climb. 24 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Peas typically begin maturing in 60 to 70 days. As the pods ripen, pinch them off or use scissors to snip them from the vines. Don’t twist them, which can damage the shallow-rooted plants. English peas are ready when their pods are swollen and still a lush green. If distinct ridges on individual peas form or the pods turn dull, you’re too late. Also know that the pods are up to 25% sugar. Just like with sweet corn, that sugar begins to turn to starch as soon as the pods are plucked. So pick and shell them right before your meal. Harvest snow peas when the pods have stopped growing, but the peas are still immature and widely spaced. They’re past their prime if you wait for them to fill out their pods. Snap peas are more flexible. Harvest them early to eat fresh or quick-cook like snow peas. Let them mature if you’d like to shell the pods or cook them snapped. Truly, they’re delicious at any point from when you can scarcely detect the peas to when they’ve filled their pods. Harvest frequently to encourage your plants to continue producing. Letting your pods linger will trigger an early decline. Sow seeds every few weeks from now until Christmas and you’ll have fresh garden peas into next spring. As for “More peas, please?” You’ll definitely have your peeps clamoring for more. Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, have filled their four-acre property in western Goleta with natives and other colorful, water-conserving plants. They also maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com
Tasting Room & Wine Library 12-6 PM Mon-Fri 11AM-6 PM Sat & Sun
fresh ceviches, mouthwatering tacos and homemade agua frescas and now offering traditional Mexican desserts at Corazon Next Door
The Project Corazon Cocina & Taproom Now Open at 214 State Street
Eat In, Take Out, Catering & Events 38 W Victoria [inside the Public Market] Mon–Fri 11am–9pm Sat–Sun 10am–9pm
wines of vision, balance and character 813 Anacapa Street, Santa Barbara 805-963-7999 ~ www.aubonclimat.com
CorazonCocinaSB.com
Comfort Food with a Twist!
Real
FOOD you f e e l
BREAKFAST
that makes
GOOD Goleta
5668 Calle Real Goleta, CA 93117 805.770.2730
Next to Panino, Across from Trader Joe’s
Downtown
331 Motor Way Santa Barbara, CA 93101 805.845.5379 Corner of State and Gutierrez
Charcuterie Dessert
LUNCH
Dog Friendly Patio
DINNER Local Wine Craft Beer
La Cumbre
3849 State St. Suite i157 Santa Barbara, CA 93105 805.569.0011 In La Cumbre Plaza, next to Vons
1555-1557 Mission Dr ▪ Solvang CA ▪ 805.691.9444 www.succulentcafe.com EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 25
drinkable
LANDSCAPE
Not Your Normal NOG by George Yatchisin PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVEN BROWN
A
nybody can do an eggnog for the holidays, especially since for most people that’s merely pouring a shot of hearty hooch into something store-bought. But for this holiday season, let’s have some fun resurrecting an old classic, a milk punch, and give it a local spin. Say hello to the Santa’s Whiskers Cocktail. That’s a dyslexic joke on the mostly forgotten Satan’s Whiskers (which even comes two ways, straight or curled). But given the frothy milky texture of this delight, if Santa drank one, no doubt it would leave his ’stache looking lost in snow. You can look all the way back to Professor Jerry Thomas and the 1860s for the first appearance of a milk punch in a cocktail book, and given he wrote the first one, that means the drink’s got some provenance. Of course, as with 90% of cocktails, it has roots in New Orleans, back when its core liquor was brandy thanks to Louisiana’s French influence, and some still recommend making it that way. That’s particularly true if you want a morning version of the drink. (Drinking has very crucial time codes in the Big Easy. Which is how they stay so easy.) But eventually bourbon became the base of choice, helping amp up the drink with even more vanilla and oak notes. If you don’t like vanilla, this isn’t the drink for you, especially the version I’ve concocted. For beyond the bourbon, you add actual vanilla extract, which sort of does magic with the milk. In some ways you could consider this a very adult milk shake. It gets a push of sweetness from some agave nectar, too. More traditional recipes suggest simple syrup, but agave seems a bit more regional if not actually local and it saves you from having to whip up simple syrup. Note: If you decide you prefer simple syrup, agave is actually sweeter than sugar, so the recipe’s ratios reflect that. The real kicker for Santa’s Whiskers is a spiced rum and not the more traditional dark rum. When in doubt, the more flavor the more better. Plus spiced rum is having its craft distiller moment, so we might as well take advantage. For instance the Bettie Page Rum that’s recommended was developed by
26 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Recipes Santa’s Whiskers Cocktail Makes 2 cocktails 21 ⁄ 2 ounces bourbon (Cutler’s 33 Bourbon recommended) 1 ounce spiced rum (Bettie Page recommended) 4 ounces whole milk (Strauss preferred) 1
⁄ 4 ounce vanilla extract
1
⁄ 2 ounce agave nectar
Whole nutmeg for grating
Combine everything except for the nutmeg in a cocktail shaker with lots of ice. Note that when you add the milk, the contents can separate a bit. That’s OK. Shake vigorously not only to chill thoroughly but also to combine to a pleasingly frothy consistency. Strain into a rocks glass. No ice is needed. Grate some fresh nutmeg atop.
Michael Cobb, the man behind the High Roller Tiki Lounge in Solvang and a lover of vintage kitsch. Working with CMG, the company that holds the Bettie Page trademark, Cobb crafted this rum rich with complex caramel notes of burnt sugar and even more spicy depths, especially clove and cinnamon. Then there’s even an organic spiced rum from Humboldt Distillery, if you care to wander farther up the California coast. And to keep it even more local, try to use Cutler’s Artisan Spirits 33 Bourbon. Something so smooth is essential for this mix, and you certainly wouldn’t want to go with something high proof. Top it out at about 90. You don’t want a drink that could catch aflame if it got too close to a holiday candle. There are some tricks during and after the actual mixing you need to be aware of. Luckily this isn’t like an egg white drink, which could make your shaker want to push open with pressure. So you do want to give it a longer shake than you might usually, closer to 30 seconds. That will ensure everything is happily comingled and give the drink a frothy texture that’s sure to please. Then also remember to get that cocktail shaker rinsed out immediately. You don’t want any milky residue getting into that martini you whip up next. Gross. Since you’ve shaken the drink to a serious chill, the glass doesn’t need any ice even though it’s a rocks glass. But it does need a quick snow of freshly grated nutmeg that entices the nose and foreshadows all that rich spiciness waiting to hit in the rum and whiskey. George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.
Demeter Certified Biodynamic Rhone and Spanish Varietals
Visit Our Tasting Room on Alisos Canyon Road
Wednesday–Sunday 11–5pm » Monday/Tuesday by appt. only Picnic Areas » Horseshoe Pit » Bocce Ball Court » Dog Friendly
MartianVineyard.com
9110 Alisos Canyon Road, Los Alamos 805.344.1804 EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 27
local
C U L I N A RY A RT I S T
Cooking with Clark Staub
Author Laura Booras with Clark Staub
by Laura Booras PHOTOGRAPHY BY WIL FERNANDEZ
T
here is nothing more rewarding than planning a dinner around items you grew yourself. This past July, in an effort to learn more about using fresh, seasonal ingredients—as many as possible from my own garden—I decided to collaborate on a dinner with someone who has built expertise doing just that: local culinary artist Clark Staub, owner of Full of Life Flatbread. Sixteen years ago, Clark started a new chapter for Los Alamos and the surrounding community when he founded his restaurant and baking facility. By focusing on wood-fired flatbread pizzas using ingredients found within 30 miles of the restaurant, Clark created the pathway to an intense appreciation of local and sustainable ingredients. He has inspired many over the years: those who dine in his restaurants, eat-local evangelists who seek out his cooking for events and the purveyors from whom he sources his ingredients. Full of Life Flatbread is one of those restaurants that leaves an impression. People tend to remember their first visit… and to keep returning. When you step in, it feels immediately warm and inviting. Your eyes take in the dark, hand-crafted wood of the big front bar, the seasonal decor that always includes something like
28 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
gourds or dried herbs and the shelves full of local wines. Then you catch a hint of smoke from the showpiece: the wood-burning oven, which perfumes the air. And the mouthwatering aromas that come from it make the place feel especially enticing. If you ask Clark, a chef who humbly describes himself as book taught, about his cooking style, he’d describe it as immature, uneducated and “of the moment.” Considering the vast number of memorable menus he has created over the years, the first two adjectives might be surprising. In my time prepping and cooking with him, I think I more fully understand his self-descriptors. “Of the moment” is the most obvious descriptor for the type of food that Clark creates, especially considering that he has been on the forefront of supporting local farmers and food producers in our area. This has not been without challenges. Options for local seafood were very limited in his early days of menu creation. And working with only what is available at a given time means changes are inevitable. A long-time farmers market “groupie” and Alice Waters fan, Clark naturally gravitated toward the use of local ingredients found seasonally at the farmers markets. “I never envisioned tomatoes in December. I never envisioned winter squash dishes in July,” he told me. (Continued on page 31)
Recipes
Cucumber Gazpacho Full of Life Flatbread’s Bell “Street” Corn
Clark recommends a mix of English, lemon, Persian and other cucumbers for this gazpacho. Makes 6 servings FOR THE SOUP 4 cups of mixed cucumbers, peeled and unpeeled (depending on variety), seeded and finely diced
Clark is a huge fan of David Chang’s Momofuku restaurants. In this era of Instagram, Clark, like so many others, was enamored with a post of “Fried Curly Corn-on-the-Cob,” a dish conceived by Chef Max Ng of New York’s Momofuku Ssäm Bar and took great inspiration from the image. Cutting the corn into sixths or eighths lengthwise is difficult without a special saw, so here is a variation for whole corn on the cob that is just as delicious.
1 serrano chile, finely minced
Makes 6 servings
1 cup dry white wine
4 garlic cloves
1
⁄ 2 cup rice wine vinegar
2 egg yolks
1
⁄ 2 cup plain yogurt
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Zest and juice of 2 limes
1 cup avocado oil
1
Kosher salt to taste
Sea salt and coarse pepper to taste
1 tablespoon espelette pepper 6 ears of corn on the cob (in the husks) Cotija cheese, crumbled fine Herb salad: dill (picked), parsley leaves, chives (cut into ¼-inch pieces), chervil (picked) and cilantro (preferably flowering, picked) 2 limes, quartered Finishing salt, such as smoked Maldon
Make the aioli: Mash the garlic cloves in a mortar and pestle, then add the egg yolks and make into a smooth paste. Add the lemon juice. Slowly, 1 drop at a time, add the avocado oil, stirring with a whisk constantly. As the aioli thickens, keep stirring until all of the oil is incorporated. When complete, stir in the salt and espelette pepper. Grill the corn in the husks until cooked and smoky, then peel back the husks. Smear with the aioli and warm on the grill again. Serve sprinkled with cotija cheese and salt, and with lime wedges and herb salad on the side.
1
⁄ 4 cup shallot, finely minced
1 fennel bulb, finely minced 1 zucchini, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, minced
⁄ 2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
GARNISH Persian cucumbers, shaved on a mandoline lengthwise into thin ribbons (leave skin on and seeds in) 3 basil leaves, chiffonade 4 radishes, diced finely Amaranth and cilantro microgreens (You can find these at the Santa Barbara Farmers Market.) Extra-virgin olive oil
For the soup, diligently and mindfully do the knife work on the ingredients. Mix all the cut ingredients together. Remove half the minced ingredients to a food processor and purée. Add the liquids to the processor and blend. In a separate bowl mix the purée with the cut ingredients to form a chunky soup. Cover and refrigerate. In a chilled bowl organize the cucumber ribbons standing upright. Scatter the basil and radish in the folds of the cucumber ribbons. Gently pour the gazpacho around the cucumber ribbons. Garnish with the microgreens. Drizzle a great olive oil over the bowl. EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 29
Grilled Quail with Garlic Breadcrumbs I get my quail from Woody’s Butcher Block in Santa Maria. Makes 4 servings 4 fresh quail, partially deboned and flattened 1 cup white wine 2 bay leaves Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup breadcrumbs 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons mixed herbs (I used summer savory and amaranth seeds, but you can vary this however you like.) 2 tablespoons olive oil Grape vine cuttings (optional)
30 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
The day before you’re serving the quail, combine wine, bay leaves, salt and pepper and pour over the quail. Refrigerate overnight. Remove the quail and pat dry. Start the fire in your grill so it has some time to burn down. In a pan, melt the butter and add the breadcrumbs and garlic. Toast the crumbs until golden brown, then stir in the herbs. Remove from heat and set aside. Brush the quail with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. When your grill is hot, add some grape vine cuttings if you have them. Put the quail on the grill breast side down and cook until browned, about 4 minutes. Flip the quail and finish cooking until completely done, another 5–6 minutes or so. Do not overcook. To serve, plate the quail and top generously with the breadcrumb-herb mixture.
Berry Boy-Bait Cake This recipe is an old favorite of my mom’s, named for its ability to attract boys. There is a blueberry farm right by Riverbench Vineyard, so we all go there as many times as we can when it’s open to pick our own and make this amazing cake. It’s perfect for a snack or dessert. You can use all blueberries or mix the berries—completely up to your tastes. Makes 8–12 servings 2 cups flour 11 ⁄ 2 cups sugar 3
⁄ 4 cup butter
2 teaspoons baking powder 2 eggs, yolks and whites separated 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 cups fresh mixed berries (blueberries, blackberries and marionberries are my favorites.)
Preheat oven to 350°. Blend the flour, sugar and butter together. Reserve ¾ cup of this for the topping. To the remaining mixture, add baking powder, egg yolks, salt, milk and vanilla. Beat the egg whites until stiff, then fold them into the batter. Spread in a greased 9- by 13-inch pan, then top with berries. Cover with reserved topping and bake for about 40 minutes, until edges are just starting to brown and cake is set.
“I am fortunate to serve fish the day it is caught, radishes hours after they are pulled from the earth, beef and lamb and goat and pig hung for a day or days after they are slaughtered,” he continued. It doesn’t really get more current than that. Clark remains on a first-name basis with his suppliers as well— Larry from Kandarian Farms, Stephanie who brings fresh sea urchin, Jacob from Roots Farm with his puntarelle and tomatoes, to name a few. For those of us who appreciate the time and effort it takes to source responsibly grown natural ingredients, knowing the person who procured it is vital. The people and farms that the ingredients came from are often spelled out in detail on Clark’s menus. The element that most people don’t consider is that, sure, we want to use seasonally available ingredients. But how do you predict what will be ready and exactly ripe when you need it? When planning the menu for our dinner, it was almost impossible a month ahead of time to know which garden ingredients would be available. In fact, Clark and I made revisions to the menu just before guests arrived. The bottom line is that sometimes you just have to go with what Mother Nature gives you and get creative, making the best possible result you can from it. Before the dinner, we walked the property, noting some of the new additions Wil and I have added to our on-site garden and orchard. With the hint of a smile, Clark saw our over-abundant fava bean plants and told me that the flowers are edible and delicious. I had no idea. Clark and I have this in common: We are self-proclaimed cookbook junkies, and we learn by listening and asking a lot of questions. Farmers and other chefs have so much information to offer, and it is ever-changing and never boring. This is the true wealth of our culinary community. Clark’s expertise is enhanced by his tremendous patience, focus and precision. This made a lot more sense to me when he shared that he studied physics and applied math in college. As we started prepping the ingredients for our dinner, I noticed his printed menu, complete with handwritten notes in the margins listing each step for each course. This type of organization shows in his food—while his style mimics the disarray of nature, each element is carefully planned. During plating, Clark shared techniques for dressing up the plate in a natural way. Something that initially looked pretty became absolutely stunning. It just took his simple addition of fennel pollen or micro herbs to make that plate all the more unique and special for each diner. Even during the last-minute pressure to get all the dishes to the table, Clark’s calm, focused attention to creating art on the plate was apparent. When it comes to education, combining ingredients and flavors and having them play off of each other leads to infinite possibilities. So in a way, those of us who adore food and wine do consider ourselves uneducated, because we can never, ever know it all. Laura Booras, a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, is the general manager at Riverbench Vineyard & Winery in the Santa Maria Valley. Wil Fernandez, a former advertising agency executive, enjoys dabbling in multimedia production and getting his hands dirty. Both transplants from the East Coast, Laura and Wil live on the vineyard, where they actively farm their own ingredients used to host food writers, celebrity chefs and wine critics for unique Wine Country experiences.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 31
BRITTANY TAYLOR
From left: Greer Shull, Spencer Shull, Tim Snider, Ashley Parker Snider, Katie Parker McDonald, Eli Parker, Amanda Parker White, Kris Parker
All in the Family at
Fess Parker Winery by Wendy Thies Sell
T
hree decades after the movie-star patriarch of the Parker family launched a winery in the Santa Ynez Valley, the second and third generations have taken over the family business, carrying on the legacy of a man with big moccasins to fill. Fess Parker Winery celebrated its 30th anniversary this year with special events centered around what would have been the 95th birthday of Fess Parker, the larger-than-life film and TV actor who portrayed American frontiersmen Davy Crockett and Daniel Boone during the 1950s and ’60s. Fess Parker, who passed away in 2010, learned in Hollywood that “the story” was paramount to a project’s success. “I was surprised when I came into the wine business that what distributors and salespeople wanted was a story!” Fess Parker told me during an interview in 2001. “So, what is our story? Our story
32 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
turned out to be that we were a family.” Fess and his wife, Marcella, who passed away earlier this year, had two children, Eli Parker and Ashley Parker Snider, who co-own Fess Parker Winery, located on the family’s 714-acre Foxen Canyon ranch. Both helped their famous father in the early days of the winery with winemaking or sales. Eli Parker is now the senior-most member of the Parker family: “We are excited about the future and for the participation of the third generation.” Two of Ashley’s children, Spencer and Greer Shull, are now officially working for the winery; Spencer is on the winery’s sales team and Greer works on the marketing team, promoting the winery, the Fess Parker Wine Country Inn and The Bear and Star restaurant, all located in Los Olivos.
30th Anniversary Retrospective Tasting
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 33
STEVEN BROWN
From left: Eli Parker, Matt Kettmann, Blair Fox and Tim Snider at the 30th Anniversary Retrospective Tasting
“It’s definitely a family affair,” said Greer Shull. “It’s awesome, honestly. It’s really special. I feel really grateful that we are still a family-owned and -operated winery in every sense of the word.” “Back in 1989, we were all learning about the challenges of the wine business,” Ashley recalled. “Thirty years later in 2019, we are continually trying to fine tune and improve what we do. If I had to guess, when Spencer, Greer and the rest of Gen’ 3 take over the reins, they will surely be the generation of innovators.” “Having had the opportunity to work with my dad for many years and executing his and my mom’s vision for the winery has really shaped the way I work with my kids. Perhaps a bit more so than my parents, I appreciate Spencer and Greer’s 20-something take on things,” added Ashley. “Their comfort level with social media and the internet allows them to be so in tune with what is trending and popular with regard to events, packaging and marketing. I feel like it’s a real benefit.” “We haven’t made our best bottle of wine yet” is a phrase often stated here. It has become the winery’s mantra: always evolving. In recent years, the winery has improved vineyard sourcing and incorporated a more hands-on approach to increase quality. “The wines are blossoming and we don’t chase the market anymore,” said Eli. “It’s all about balance.”
34 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
This summer, for example, the winery underwent a complete overhaul: re-engineering the wine production area and adding nine concrete fermenters. Concrete enables cool, controlled fermentations and lets a grape’s true character shine through. In August, about 50 Fess Parker wine club members and guests gathered in the barrel room for the winery’s 30th Anniversary Retrospective Tasting and a panel discussion led by Wine Enthusiast’s Matt Kettmann, including head winemaker Blair Fox, Eli Parker and winery president Tim Snider. Guests tasted Fess Parker sparkling wine and early vintages of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and the Crockett. Crockett is an age-worthy Rodney’s Vineyard Syrah blend, which the winemaking team touts as “the best wine in the cellar.” “It’s a tribute to Fess’s founding vision,” said Snider. That vision is being realized. Fess Parker planned all along to pass along the family business to his children and grandchildren. Fess once summed up his love for family: “In the end, other than your own person, there’s nothing else in the world. After family is health, and then hopefully you live in a democracy.” Wendy Thies Sell is a four-time Emmy Award–winning journalist, travel, wine and lifestyle writer and emcee. Wendy anchored the local TV news on California’s Central Coast for 12 years at KSBY and KCOY. She resides with her family in northern Santa Barbara County.
Gif t Giving Ideas
ChocolateMaya.com 15 West Gutierrez Street • Santa Barbara, California 93101 Phone: (805) 965-5956 Fax: (805) 563-1263
Monday–Friday 10am–6pm, Saturday 10am–5pm, Sunday 10am– 4pm
Baked fresh daily, featuring hand rolled crust. Marcie sources ingredients for her pies and quiches from the family farm. Available in a variety of sizes and seasonal flavors with gluten-free and no sugar added options.
Holiday Pies & Quiche Marcie’s Pies
JimenezFamilyFarm.com • 805 688-0597
Santa Barbara County heirloom Pinquito Beans, Seasonings and other authentic products from local family-owned company founded in 1981.
FRESH
LOCAL
Specializing in Sourcing and Delivering the Best Local Seasonal Organic and Pesticide Free Produce, Local Grass-fed Meats, Pasture Raised Poultry, and Many More Wonderful Local Artisanal Food Products
Subscriptions start at $25. You control your produce box delivery via our website! • Delivery options include weekly or every other week • Freedom to suspend your delivery, weekly billing, various box sizes • Gift certificates available
www.PlowToPorch.com
Build-Your-Own Santa Maria Style BBQ Gift Box Susie Q’s Brand
$38 – SusieQBrand.com/edible
Sweet & Spicy Grape, Tomato & Chile and Fig & Olive are simmered in small batches merging the best quality ingredients made in California. A perfect accompaniment to just about everything.
A Trio of Condiments and Sauces A Taste of California
$36 – PrivateChefRobin.com EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 35
I Sea Olives Words and photos by John Cox
36 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Stephanie Mutz checking sea-brined olives
F
ive years ago, I was walking around the Linne Calodo tasting room in Paso Robles with owner and winemaker Matt Trevesain. It was late summer and the sidewalk was littered with olives, their juice and skins creating a mosaic across the concrete. Matt reached down mid-conversation to pick up a freshly fallen olive, turning it between thumb and forefinger, examining it in the late afternoon sun. “How did anyone figure out these were edible?� he mused. EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 37
Harvesting olives
38 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Then, in true Matt fashion, he went on to answer his own Would it have all the vibrancy of a freshly shucked oyster, question: “There must have been olive trees growing near a tidal sweet and briny? At the time, I was collaborating with Monterey pool and some hungry person just happened on a few that had Abalone Company, and I considered filling a cage with olives, to been washing around and decided to give them a try. I wonder mellow alongside their abalone under the wharf. Unfortunately, what an olive like that would taste like?” a fickle olive harvest plus being late in the season meant that I couldn’t get my hands on enough olives to experiment. It would The conversation that afternoon ebbed and flowed and have to wait. eventually blurred behind hours of wine tasting, but somehow Matt’s line of thought never left my mind. What would seaThree years later, I was living on a boat in the Santa Barbara brined olives taste like? Harbor. The olive trees were loaded with fruit, and I was able to get 10 pounds of carefully sorted, prime olives from a friend Historically, olive trees are among the oldest cultivated trees in the Santa Ynez Valley. This would be the year for sea-brined and have been found everywhere from ancient Egyptian tombs olives! I submerged a weighted mesh bag under our boat and to our own backyards in California. Wild olive trees, native planned to pull them out three weeks later for a taste. to Asia Minor, produce small, bitter olives, but as they were cultivated throughout the world, their value grew as a source for Two weeks passed, and then the Thomas fire of 2017 pressed oil, useful not only for cooking but for medicine, fuel, swept through Montecito and we watched flames crawl bathing and numerous ceremonial practices. down the ridge towards Santa Barbara. As the neighborhoods progressively evacuated, and the air quality deteriorated, we Yet archaeological evidence suggests that Neolithic peoples packed our bags and headed north. When we returned a few gathered olives, and if you’ve ever nibbled an olive fresh from days later, the boat was covered in a thick layer of ash, and the the branch, you know that surely our ancestors must have harbor was capped with black sludge, done something to remove the a combination of ash and debris that overwhelmingly bitter astringency. Every person I spoke to had their had been swept by the wind down Oleuropein is the bitter tannic from the hills. own harvesting theory, but the basic compound that makes the raw fruit Eventually, life returned to so inedible, and the main challenge technique involved laying a tarp below normal and I remembered the bag of in preparing green olives at home. the tree and using a rake to strip the olives. At first sight, the bag was less After the time-consuming step of fruit from the branches. than encouraging, slick with algae, gathering and then sorting olives half filled with debris and little sea for size and quality, olives must be creatures. The olives emanated a dank soaked to extract the compound. harbor smell of decomposing marine matter and the bitter One method is to make a slit in each individual olive with a residue of forest fire. Even after rinsing the olives in clean water, paring knife, and then soak the olives in cold water, changing it I couldn’t quite bring myself to taste them. This wasn’t how once or twice a day, for around a month, or until the bitterness I’d imagined the clean, sweet taste of an ocean-cured olive. I is abated. blanched a few quickly in boiling water. My expectations were A second method, better for keeping the olives intact, is low, but finally, after years of waiting, I was about to find out to soak the uncut olives in a saltwater brine, changing out the for myself the proof of concept. brine every two to three weeks, for three to four months. The first taste surprised me. There was a note of funkiness, A third, much quicker, method is to soak the olives with but I couldn’t tell if it was psychosomatic or an actual flaw in water and sodium hydroxide (better known as lye) for 12 to 24 the olives. Most importantly, the tannins had been smoothed hours. At this point, the olives can be soaked in plain or salted out, and the olives had a pronounced savory quality, with a water for about five days. Using lye in the preparation of food balanced salinity and good texture. is understandably intimidating to most home cooks. Lye is sold What I needed was a more controlled location, where the as a commercial drain cleaner, and comes with the warning that ocean water would be pristine enough that I could create an misuse will result in severe chemical burns. However, weaker lye ocean-brined olive, fit for general consumption. Neal up at solutions, usually derived from vegetable ash, have long been a Morro Bay Oyster Company offered to keep them in his oyster traditional ingredient for curing foods worldwide, as well as a tanks, and Stephanie Mutz, a Santa Barbara urchin diver, critical ingredient in soap production. offered to tie them up at her buoy. She sweetened the deal with Finally, there is a method for packing black olives, those an offer from a friend in Los Alamos: a whole grove of olive which have been ripening on the tree through the winter and trees, willingly donated for the cause. are harvested in the spring, in salt until they are cured. When I received a text from Stephanie in the autumn of I’ve gone the route of traditional green olive curing, and it is 2018, I was thrilled that she had not only remembered her offer, laborious. The notion of sea-brined olives had a twofold appeal: but that she’d already organized an olive picking party for the First, it would save me weeks of dumping buckets of olives into following Saturday. By the time I arrived in Los Alamos, there fresh water, and second, I was genuinely interested in what the were already a half a dozen pickup trucks parked by the gate. taste would be. EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 39
Resources Curing Olives Don’t wait seven years: Cure your own olives at home! Whether you choose to soak your olives in plain water, lye or the ocean. If you have an olive tree, you can have bragging rights to home-cured olives. When collecting, be sure to look out for the telltale signs of olive fly larvae. Discard any olives with significant bumps, bruises or scars. Try to sort your olives according to size and ripeness; it will make a difference in the end. Once your olives have soaked and the bitter, tannic taste is gone, here are two good ways to finish off the product.
Oil Method Oil-marinated olives are a rich and decadent treat, and the most important ingredient is the olive oil you chose. Try to find a mid-range extra-virgin olive oil; once infused with aromatics it will take on a whole new flavor profile. Use a ratio of ¼ cup kosher salt to 4 cups olive oil (you’ll need enough to submerge the olives, and all the oil that will be left over after the olives are eaten makes a wonderfully flavored base for salad dressings or cooking oil). Combine oil and salt in a heavy saucepan with aromatics of your choice: Stephanie used ingredients from around her home, such as lemon peel from a neighbor’s tree, rosemary and sage from her own garden. Chilies, peppercorns, garlic, bay leaves, rosemary or citrus rind are always good options. But remember that the olives will need to mellow for about six months, and the spices can overpower the olives. Best to stick to two or three aromatics and in small amounts. Heat the oil carefully to just below a simmer. The idea is to infuse the oil with the aromatics, but not to truly cook them. Cool the oil and combine with the olives.
Vinegar Method If you prefer super tangy olives, along the lines of a kalamata, vinegar-cured olives are the way to go. They’ll taste great as snacks with beer or ouzo. Use a ratio of ¼ cup kosher salt to 4 cups water, plus ½ cup vinegar. This can be white wine, red wine or cider vinegar. Multiply the recipe to produce enough brine to submerge the olives. Any number of aromatics can be added at this point, but be wary of going overboard. Chilies, peppercorns, garlic, bay leaves, rosemary, or citrus rind are always good options. But remember that the olives will need to mellow for about six months, and the spices can overpower the olives. Best to stick to two or three aromatics and in small amounts.
40 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
People were unloading their tarps, buckets and rakes, and entire families had gathered to take part in the harvest. Every person I spoke to had their own harvesting theory, but the basic technique involved laying a tarp below the tree and using a rake to strip the fruit from the branches. With some shaking and knocking, the olives gather on the tarp below and are collected into 50-gallon bins. Harvesting olives from the two dozen trees took most of the day, but the participants were rewarded with good conversation, a delicious picnic and the promise of shared olives in the future. After carefully picking through the olives, removing any that might have olive fly larvae inside the fruit, pulling out stray twigs and leaves, Stephanie was left with about 200 gallons of olives. Five weeks after tying the perforated bins to her mooring, she invited me to come out and check on them. It was an exceptional winter day. The Channel Islands stood out in sharp relief against the horizon, and the ocean was calm and beautifully turquoise. Stephanie used a long hook to snag up one of the lines running down to the first bin, and used her boat lift to raise it up. After a few minutes, the olives slowly emerged. Unlike the grime-covered olives I’d produced a year before, these were clean and plump, but we still tasted cautiously. They were firm, vibrant and with a deep taste of the ocean, but still too tannic. We returned the bins to the ocean to soak some more. Stephanie continued to check the olives as the weeks progressed. Finally, after two months, they were deemed fit to pull up. We divided the olives between ourselves. Stephanie packed her share with local lemon peel, bay leaf and olive oil. I added chilies, garlic, herbs and vinegar. While both batches were good, they weren’t great. It turned out we hadn’t sorted the olives carefully enough; some were overly ripe, some not ripe enough, making snacking on a bowl of olives a game of culinary roulette. In addition, the olives still had a degree of bitter astringency. Some were perfect, and over time both batches began to mellow and improve in flavor and complexity. By the time the olives had been marinating in their respective infusions for about six months, they were good enough to share. (While supplies last, you can come try our sea olives at Third Window Brewing in Santa Barbara.) It’s now been seven years since my idle vineyard conversation. I have 200 pounds of olives and many, many people to thank for their help—most of all Stephanie, who really took the idea and ran with it. Without her local olive connections and mooring this larger batch wouldn’t have been possible. And, of course, I need to thank my very patient and brilliant wife, who humors my crazy experiments. I now have two jars of ocean-brined local olives in my refrigerator. I don’t know what my Neolithic ancestors would think of my technique, but I can’t wait to try this year’s batch. This time will be even better. John Cox is the chef partner at The Bear and Star in Los Olivos. When he isn’t in the kitchen, or at home on his boat in Santa Barbara, he loves traveling the world in search of new culinary experiences.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 41
Olive
Tapenade
O
live tapenade is one of those versatile components that can be used as a spread, a dip or a sauce. This recipe makes just the right amount to put on top of a weeknight dinner of pasta, chicken or fish. If you have been inspired to cure your own olives by John Cox’s article on the preceeding pages, try this recipe with your own olives. If your olives are oil marinated, use the some of the olive oil in the jar of olives for this recipe. Makes about ½ cup 1
⁄ 3 cup olives (black or green or a mixture)
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped Olive oil
If the olives have pits, crush olives with the back of a heavy knife and then remove the pits and coarsely chop olive meat. Add the capers and garlic to the olives and finely mince them together or, alternately, crush and combine them all with a mortar and pestle. Place in a small bowl and add enough olive oil to make a spreadable or sauce-like consistency. Taste and add a little salt and pepper if needed. Tapenade can be used immediately or made ahead. It keeps well in the refrigerator for a couple weeks. —Krista Harris
42 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
STEVEN BROWN
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Seasonal Farmers Market Menu Local Wines and Craft Beers naturally leavened wood fired pizza
Everyday 11:30am–10pm 805-770-2383 Montecito Country Mart 1014 Coast Village Rd, Santa Barbara www.bettinapizzeria.com @bettinapizzeria
Dinner Tue–Sun 5pm–close; Happy Hour week days 4:30–6pm; Lunch Tue–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Brunch Sat–Sun 10am–2pm; Closed Monday
1150 COAST VILLAGE ROAD, SUITE E, MONTECITO MON–SUN: 7AM–2PM 3315 State St. & 1324 State St. Santa Barbara, California www.renaudsbakery.com (805) 569-2400
MADE FRESH DAILY ON OUR PREMISES • FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM: @BREEOSHBAKERY
805 570 9151 • breeosh.com
Extra virgin olive oils, flavored olive oils, olive tapenades, table olives, gourmet vinegars, local food products.
Open Daily 11–5
2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos 805 693-0700 olivehillfarm.com
CENTRAL COAST CUISINE
Dinner 5–9:30pm Closed Tuesdays Wedding Receptions Private Parties/Events 205 W. Canon Perdido St., Santa Barbara 805 963 9591 ~ Barbareno.com EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 43
Drinking the Landscape
A Winemaker’s Existentialist Dilemma by Sonja Magdevski PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRAN COLLIN
44 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Portico Hills Vineyard
V
ineyards are stories etched into the landscape. Their identities can tell you everything if you are paying close enough attention. Just like our own names, whose reputations betray truths we may not even understand. I learned this early on visiting my parents’ Macedonian homeland. When elderly villagers encountered an unfamiliar face in the fields, they commonly posed the question, roughly translated, to ask, “To whom do you belong?” This was their way of placing you somewhere among their history. To begin to make sense of a stranger, I soon learned, it’s best to know their origins. Of course, the importance of that history depends on who is sharing the information and who is examining it. We do this all the time, making initial, immediate judgments based on a few phrases. In today’s world where unfettered words are found in a million different places inside our pockets, how do we derive meaning? What is truth when creating the simplest of pleasures, like enjoying a glass of wine from a specific place anywhere in the world? You are right to roll your eyes right about now. I have no idea why this idea keeps burning inside me. The purpose of making wine is to create pleasure. We winemakers devote our entire lives, grit and guts to making something to be enjoyed and shared. The cycle seems like madness at times, and I can’t stop. I am joined
by millions of hands around the world that also work tirelessly toward the same end. Pleasure. It holds profound meaning. Wine has been a part of our lives for thousands of years. We have tried all along to identify it. We assign meaning through art, stories and poetry. Glass after glass. What’s in that bottle? Does it have a name? To whom does it belong? We still haven’t quite figured it out, the how and why of it, which seems even more ridiculous every moment I think about it. Yet I can’t stop the swirling in my head. Wine always starts with risk, a choice and a name. That is what gives it identity. Who first dug their hands into the earth, where did they do it and why? Planting something that deeply roots itself in place to establish its territory is not about fleeting moments or for the faint of heart. It is about the past, the present and the future. It is about nurturing and thriving. It is about those who can withstand storms and live to tell. It is about sharing history. It is about the wine and where it is grown. This is a story about the identity of vineyards and why identity matters in a world so large and anonymous as our own. Pleasure is small and individual. The name of a place means something and someone somewhere will care.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 45
Ballard Canyon: Larner Vineyard
Part I: Origin Story “The easiest way for me to answer this question is scientifically,” said Michael Larner of Larner Vineyard in Ballard Canyon when I asked him about the importance of name designation for his family’s vineyard. “There are five different moving parts in each vineyard: climate, soil, farming, solar radiation and choice. Ultimately those moving parts are like gears and they are all work together to create a whole system. What I have found throughout the years that I can rely on now as a geologist is that the ground ultimately speaks louder than the winemaker.” He immediately shrugs his shoulders and states he knows there is going to be skepticism. Most people don’t understand the complexities of farming a vineyard. Though with all of the dozens of clients who have sourced grapes from him over the years, regardless of each winemaker’s personal thumbprint on the wine, there is a thread that cannot change the essence of the vineyard. You can taste it, he said. There is clarity of fruit. This is the identity of the earth. This is the gear system working without us every noticing. The idea of vineyard designation is borrowed from the Old World (as we refer to Europe), to express pedigree to the consumer. Mine is different than yours, meaning what I am is also what I am not. Designation as delineation. Designation as pride. Designation as reputation. Designation as history. How do we convince the wine consumer in a congested market that this must be the place? Michael Larner
46 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
In the U.S. we use similar models of identifications under various marketing platforms. The first is the estate model, where a winery chooses to invest in a location to make its home. There is value in that. The second is simple differentiation. If a winery makes eight different Chardonnays from eight different locations, then the name of the place is the primary identifying factor. The message here is that there is value in location selection. The third is the pedigree model. If a vineyard has an established reputation in the marketplace, then those who work with the fruit choose to do so in the hopes of elevating their product by association.
Part 2: To Be or Not to Be? Unlike Europe, we are not bound by government rules in the U.S. that dictate what we are allowed to grow where. That system is based partly on historical evidence and partly on political whim. Here, we can plant any grape anywhere we can plant a vineyard. Therefore we drink the grape before we drink the place. In Europe, particularly France, you drink the place and the grapes specifically grown in that place. In essence, place has equal if not greater significance than the grape. Think Burgundy or Pinot Noir. Sancerre or Sauvignon Blanc. Northern Rhône or Syrah. While tricky to comprehend at first, we in the U.S. have based our vineyard appellation models on the same premise. We map out specific zones called American Viticultural Areas that we have found are better suited to meet the growing requirements of particular varietals. Ideally, this correlates to superior quality fruit and as a result to superior wine. The messaging here is, we have found the place. The real work then begins to further define it and refine it. “I have dedicated the last 28 years of my career to a fourmile stretch of land along highway 246 in the Sta. Rita Hills appellation,” said Greg Brewer of Brewer-Clifton Winery. “Place is very important to me. I hold the same provincial tendencies that the Europeans do. Yet, we are talking about a very finite audience that is discerning specific blocks and sites within each area. I am not averse to this at all. We built BrewerClifton on the model of site-specific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is beautiful to visualize where something is from—in our case a vineyard’s history—and to have an awareness of what went into that eventual wine.” “Yet with the number of producers and the number of choices today there is so much for people to take in,” Brewer continued. “I am finding it harder to maintain the attention I used to have about certain things. I am now in an evolution of wanting to widen the scope. I want to provide more people with the ability to taste the Sta. Rita Hills region versus just a few rows in a vineyard accessible by a few.” Brewer said that vineyard designation plays to our sociological bias when considering something rare or unique.
Sonja Magdevski examining the soil
Grapes ready for harvest
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 47
Brenna Quigley
He uses the example of an orchestra. With 100 people on stage perfectly performing their instruments, once the first chair violin rises to play a solo, everyone becomes hyper alert. Suddenly the experience is elevated and everyone knows to pay attention. The violinist is making a statement. “We are wired this way even though on a rational level the reverse would be true—the ability of an entire orchestra to play together in perfect harmony is much more challenging, though there is a bias when things are blended or volumetrically bigger,” he continued. “Some wine critics may also respond in similar ways and say the designate wines were more precise and direct, though in my experience I would say it is debatable.”
Part 3: Piccolo or Oboe? Brenna Quigley is a Santa Barbara–based geologist with a concentration in wine. As a self-described terroir specialist, she has been traveling in wine regions deciphering minerals, soils and vineyard maps. She helps producers better understand why their vines perform a certain way in a particular soil and how its composition is decoded through the vine and into the wine. Her tools are her hands, her hammer, her notebooks and her taste buds. She defines terroir as site typicity. When I press her further to explain she says, “It’s the personality of a place.” I like that. During our time together walking vineyards in the Santa Ynez Valley I ask her questions in the hopes she will validate my own observations working with vineyards throughout the county. My experiences are only observation based. I don’t have earth science in my back pocket as a reference. My choices are 48 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
fundamentally subjective, making my observations inherently biased. The confidence I have in what I see, smell, taste and feel is strong. It’s the accuracy of my confidence that is shaky on a quantifiable basis. “How different can one vineyard possibly be from its neighbors?” I ask. “Wildly different?” “Wildly different,” she answers. “First and foremost the factor that is going to make the most difference is climate,” she states. “If a grape is grown in Sta. Rita Hills versus Ballard Canyon you are in two totally different places that taste different. The trick is what you find when you break it all down to the minutia. We are not talking about good or bad. This is about very specific quality things that are happening on a smaller scale. Take a certain slope in a vineyard that has always been a sweet spot. What you are getting is the balance of the rocks and the soil and how they interplay with everything else on many levels, which is a metaphor for everything.” She laughs. Winemaking styles can create unique wines based on a winemaker’s process given the same grape grown in the same place. Similarly, Syrah grown on limestone and Syrah grown on granite, for instance, also produce distinct characteristics in the resulting wine, arguably regardless of winemaking preference. Quigley admits there are many factors involved as to why a wine tastes as it does. These soil distinctions truly begin to make sense when you taste one winemaker’s consistent style interpreted across many different sites. She gave the example of a producer in Burgundy she recently worked with who produced dozens of individual single-vineyard wines in the same method. The style was the control and the vineyards planted with the same grape were the comparative medium. She found each wine to be intrinsically expressive of the geology of its place. In this instance they were able to create a small world to identify details and observations across a broader understanding. Their confidence in their accuracy was high. “Geologically speaking, so many things transformed over the course of hundreds of millions of years to create this one site that is extraordinarily unique,” Quigley said. “Now this site reflects all of these coincidences and can produce something we can feel and taste the personality of. That is the biggest, most beautiful sense of this amazing piece of the world.” I sat there stunned and elated. Geology and soil, she said, are tools we use to further identify place. They provide the foundation of each story to be identified through its characters, the vineyards that grow within its groundwork. The vines, the wines, the people and the hands create the reputations that reveal truths. We understand their origins and better appreciate why people dug their hands in the dirt. For our pleasure. Which still seems like madness. Though pleasure is pleasure, and it is truly profound. Mine and yours. Small and individual. The name of a place means something and someone, somewhere, will care. Sonja Magdevski is winemaker/owner of Casa Dumetz Wines, Clementine Carter and The Feminist Party wine brands and spends a lot of time in her tasting room in Los Alamos when she isn’t at the winery or investigating her next story.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 49
50 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
The Care and Feeding of an Avocado by John La Puma, MD
T
he shuttered shade flower nursery I bought came with how to care for the trees, so they produce fruit and thrive. a few old, cranky avocado trees. Seemingly as neglected While there are many different schedules for feeding and as the property’s 1964 lathe houses, which were barely watering avocados, the best advice is much like the best advice in balanced on cinderblock and bound with twine, the trees had crisp medicine: See the patient. What one patient needs to stay well or white roots under a blanket of floating, light brown leaves. Thank get better is slightly different than another patient, even if they goodness, I thought. Never raked. share the same diagnosis. That’s because patients are individuals, with their own families, cultures, values and beliefs. Besides giving all those terrific avocado leaves, avocado tree canopies, especially the umbrella-shaped canopy of Hass avocado Trees are also individuals, surrounded by dry conditions or trees, happen to be ideal for shinrin-yoku. The Japanese term wet ones, warmed by direct sun or filtered rays, planted in clay for forest-bathing, shinrin-yoku is a form of nature therapy, soil or sand, irrigated with salty or high-quality water, protected which lowers stress and cortisol levels and improves immunity by beneficial insects nearby, or none at all. Nevertheless, most in people. Nature therapy is also part of a stress management avocado trees need to be fed several times a year, irrigated with and burnout prevention program I high-quality water to their root zone created recently for a Santa Barbara– People seek out avocado trees for many at least weekly, and be exposed to based nonprofit. An avocado tree’s direct sun at least six hours daily. phytoncides, which are antibacterial reasons, but mostly for their remarkable, Successful organic, regenerative and antifungal compounds, may be luscious, gorgeous fruit. One common avocado farming is not only possible, partly responsible for a tree’s health but preferable: Such farming helps enigma: how to care for the trees, so benefits—for people standing or repair the trees, soil, air and water, and they produce fruit and thrive. sitting or walking under it. our own public health. As noted, avocado trees create Not a bit drought tolerant, avocado some of their own mulch with their leaves. Leaving them in trees also require good drainage, modest but balanced nutrition and place dampens weeds, reduces evaporation and eventually creates a frost-free environment. Backyard trees seldom require pruning, compost and food for the tree. Avocado leaves also contain though it is helpful to the eater to keep fruit trees at a safely persin, a potential novel chemotherapeutic agent that appears harvestable height. Avocado tree roots are primarily in the top to enhance the sensitivity of breast cancer cells to the common eight to 12 inches of soil, so your best instruments for assessment chemotherapeutic agent tamoxifen. Unfortunately, that also makes are actually your fingers. Just dig in and see if it is dry a few the leaves of Guatemalan avocados (Hass, Fuerte, Nabal) toxic, inches down. If you can’t tell (and it can be difficult), use a simple causing intestinal and cardiovascular problems to cats, dogs, horses moisture meter probe (about $10 at the local hardware store). and goats. Avocados are somewhat disease-resistant, especially against The leaves of the Mexican avocado (Persea americana var. many fungi (another bit of evidence that their leaf phytoncides drymifolia), however, are considered edible. They’re often toasted may play a role in improving immunity), but they are far from and are delicious in Oaxacan black beans, tamales, pipian and disease-proof. Mites and thrips infect them when flowering and barbacoa—all of which I was privileged to make at Chicago’s thereafter; root rot from Phytophthora cinnamomi is common, Topolobampo for years. For your own anise-y, bay-like, ineffable especially in clay soil, and easily spread. Gophers and rats are hint of depth in frijoles, hunt for leaves from the Mexican avocado perennial and potentially lethal pests. Trees are easily sunburned varieties Mexicola, Northrop, Puebla and Zutano. and so is hanging fruit. People seek out avocado trees for many reasons, but mostly for Releasing predatory mites and lacewings to eat persea and spider mites from the leaves and fruit is one solution to the latter their remarkable, luscious, gorgeous fruit. One common enigma:
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 51
Avocado Myths 1. Avocados ripen on the tree. No, they don’t. They do mature on the tree, but if they ripen, it’s because a bird or another inquisitor made its way into the fruit before you did. They can overstay their welcome on the tree, however: After 18 months or so, the fruit can turn slightly rancid. 2. Avocados should not be eaten if the stem cap is missing. No! If it is missing, there is a very small possibility that a pest will make its way in before you do. But otherwise, a missing stem cap is cosmetic damage. 3. Avocados streaked with tan or brown are bad or will go bad soon. No. In fact, these avocados are likely a best buy: The streaking is cosmetic damage from a thrip or mite, which enables a little bit of extra evaporation from the already fat-plumped fruit, making it even creamier. Buy these first: Ugly avocados sometimes are the best tasting. 4. Avocados should stay on the kitchen counter. No! Only if you plan to eat them shortly, which you should if they are next to other fruits that give off ethylene gas (apples, pears, all stone fruit except cherries), which hastens ripening. Otherwise, after the avocado has softened on the counter very slightly, you can refrigerate for 5–10 days. 5. Avocado pits prevent guacamole browning. Mostly no! While cling film is the most efficient barrier I know between guacamole and oxygen, the pit will not work to prevent browning and oxidation, except for the guac area on which it sits. And if you didn’t use cling film, or a squeeze of lime didn’t neutralize the polyphenol oxidase enzymes in the guacamole for long enough, just scoop off the yucky brown mush, and beneath it… California avocado green.
52 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 53
Avocados on toast with a poached egg
pests, and spreading coarse organic mulch beneath trees (a full six inches from the trunk) is another. The thrips that drop from trees won’t survive on mulch as well as they would in the soil. Clearing weeds can also be helpful in mite control, and blasts of water can knock mites off their webs. Gypsum and bulky, chipped mulches can help improve root rot, but tight irrigation monitoring and treatment with phosphonate are often needed. If you’re lucky enough to have a tree in the ground, you know that Hass avocados usually flower from approximately March through June, and are optimally harvested about a year later. If you don’t want to wait, they’ll reach their required-tobe-sold 20.8% dry matter level by mid January, and be rich and luscious. They’ll continue to accumulate oil as they stay on the tree, and will only drop if they are severely stressed, if a pest gnaws at the stem or roots or if strong winds blow through their branches before you’ve had a chance to pick the fruit. Avocado trees have long odds to fruit, beginning with gender fluidity. The most popular avocado, Hass, is self-fertile. However, even Hass (with its type A flower), benefits from having an avocado such as a Bacon, Fuerte, Rincon, Sir Prize or Zutano nearby (with its type B flower). That’s because type A flowers open as female one day and close as males the next morning; that afternoon, they open as males. Type B flowers are just the opposite. Although a tree’s flowers are synchronized, with luck, a few overlap just long enough to let honeybees, the main avocado pollinator, do their work. From 800 to 5,000 flowers must bloom before one becomes an avocado-in-waiting. Alternate bearing years for avocados are common. To increase fruiting, get a beehive, plant an opposite flower type of avocado tree, and make sure direct sunlight reaches the lower branches of each tree. Still, our climate is nearly perfect for avocados, and there should be an avocado tree in every backyard in Santa Barbara. No room? Check out container avocados: Look for the dwarf 54 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
avocado varieties Mexicola, Day or Wurtz (a true dwarf: also called Little Cado), which grows to 10 feet tall. These varieties all are slightly less rich than Hass, Lamb Hass and Sir Prize, but are still delicious and creamy and fit well in a 15-gallon pot. Avocados are ripe when they are heavy in your hand for their size and give just slightly to a gentle squeeze from your palm. An avocado’s skin color when ripe is avocado specific: Hass and Lamb Hass darken; Macarthur, Fuerte, Rincon and Bacon stay green. The best value in the market are blemished avocados that are perfect on the inside. If you’re in the mood for a uniform exterior, look for larger, just picked, not-yet-ripe avocados: They often have a better flesh-to-pit ratio than the small ones. Avocados with soft or dark spots are often fine to eat, once those spots are cut out and composted. Those fruit with cuts through the skin, mold or squishiness, however, should be composted straightaway. Nutritionally, the avocado is a champ. Not just because they are better than butter for toast, and better than cream for ice cream, but because adding them to salad, soups and salsa enhances your body’s ability to absorb brightly colored, antiinflammatory carotenoids in other food. The lutein in a spinach salad, the lycopene in a tomato, the beta-carotene in a carrot all are bioavailable to you, your metabolism and your microbiota only if there is a little healthy fat in the mix. Why not fight oxidative stress and free radicals, improve eyesight and protect your heart, while netting yourself great flavor and great medicine, in a single bite? How lucky we are to have avocados in Santa Barbara County. John La Puma, MD, is the New York Times best-selling author of ChefMD’s Big Book of Culinary Medicine and RealAge Diet, the latter with Michael Roizen, MD. He grows certified organic avocados and rare citrus in Santa Barbara, runs PlantWithaDoc.com, and is credited with pioneering culinary medicine in the U.S. Find him at www.drjohnlapuma. com or on Instagram/Twitter at @johnlapuma.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 55
Dry Wines Dry-Hopped by Brian Yaeger
56 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
A
s a devout hophead, I was intrigued by the pale golden Debolt at Pacific Valley Hops in Lompoc. You’ll find precious drink in my festival glass bursting with familiar aromas few hopyards among the Santa Ynez Valley vineyards. of citrus, lemongrass and potpourri. Except, I wasn’t at Hop On is built on a base of Buttonwood’s flagship a beer festival, I was at the Santa Barbara Vintners Festival. And Sauvignon Blanc. Not that you’d know that from the label. The I wasn’t drinking an India Pale Ale, I was experiencing my first Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) had never taste of a hopped wine. encountered such a product and myopically couldn’t deduce how From Buttonwood Winery in Solvang, winemaker Karen to legally label it. “That’s why it says ‘white wine with natural Steinwachs first made Hop On, her dry-hopped Sauvignon flavors,’ no varietal, no vintage, no estate-grown claim,” sighs Blanc (that’s legally not a Sauvignon Blanc but we’ll get to that Steinwachs. So just between you, me, Karen, and the grapevines later) in 2016 and is now on batch 17. It’s too soon to determine and hop bines, it’s very much a Sauv Blanc. The wine’s citrus zest if she has blazed a trail, but Buttonwood is not the only winery and passion fruit notes truly embrace the bombastic American that’s hopped up on beer’s cherished botanical. hops—in this latest case that’s whole-cone Cascade, Chinook and Crystal hops. “I wanted the aromatics of the hops, and It isn’t that much of a stretch that Steinwachs should create a perhaps a little of the texture, but did hoppy, fermented beverage. Her greatnot want to add bitterness. It’s one of great-great-great-grandfather was Steinwachs says she figured, those wine-versus-beer things.” Jacob Best, who founded the Empire “If he could dry-hop cider, why Brewery in Milwaukee in 1844. That Someone who could be described couldn’t I try that with wine?” name may not be familiar to you, nor as a wine-versus-beer thing is Andrew It was an ah-hop moment. the name it became known as when Jones. A full decade ago he founded Jacob’s son Phillip took over, the Best the winery Field Recordings, which Brewery. But when one of Phillip’s two daughters married a also encompasses the Wonderwall and Foxie Spritzer brands young man named Frederick Pabst, you can guess what became (itself in tandem with Hoxie Wine Spritzers, hence taking the F of the brewing company. from Field Recordings) and formerly Alloy Wine Works, not to mention Jones is a partner in Tin City Cider. Jones has put hops It’s vital to note that Phillip’s other daughter, Lisette, into all of them. Well, not every wine under those umbrellas, but married a gentleman named Emil Schandein and together a few. with his brother-in-law Pabst, the two grew the Best Brewery into the country’s largest brewing company by 1874. It wasn’t “We aren’t your regular winery,” says Jones. “We have tried a renamed until after Schandein passed in 1888. Lisette and Emil’s lot of different things over the years.” grandchildren moved from Milwaukee to Buffalo, New York, One such thing, which you saw coming, was hopping where Karen was born. “Interestingly,” notes Steinwachs today, wine. “We have done hop trials through the years. Brewers will “Jacob Best and his sons moved to Milwaukee after a failed wine typically trial hops on macro brews,” he mentions, since the venture in Germany.” micros—craft brewers—like that the base liquid is absolutely With both hops and grapes in her DNA, the inspiration to beer but decidedly low or lacking in hop character, meaning pioneer merging the two came from tasting something from her bitterness, aroma and flavor. As such, the test liquids can be fellow winemaker, Mikey Giugni, via his Scar of the Sea. But in further dry-hopped and forecast what the new hop varietals this case it was his hopped cider. Steinwachs says she figured, will contribute to the crafted brew. “We trialed things a bit “If he could dry-hop cider, why couldn’t I try that with wine?” differently using what I consider to be a generic macro wine.” It was an ah-hop moment. Jones then deadpans, “Pinot Grigio.” “We started with very small experimental batches using hop Pelletized aromatic hops were added to various bottles for 48 pellets; we did not jump in without a little caution.” She has hours and then re-tasted. The reactions were “all over the board.” Through those trials, and perhaps dialed back because not only since graduated to using fresh hop cones purchased from Brian
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 57
did they learn what did work but what didn’t work, too, Field Recordings now offers two hopped wines. The flagship, as it were, is an effervescent Pétillant Naturel bluntly named Dry Hop Pet Nat. The result ensnared me with the white grape, light berry and pome fruit flavors I love about champagne but what I appreciated the most was that since pétnat is bubbly like beer, the citrusy and resinous bitterness feels like a natural complement. I further think it resembles the dry, tannic, funky Basque ciders that resonate with Belgian lambic ale fans, so even its inherent “beeriness” lies within a certain niche. Jones’s other hopped wine falls under the Foxie brand. Given that all of Hoxie’s canned spritzers are embellished with fruits and other herbs or spices, Foxie Grapefruit begins as a rosé made from Tempranillo, Grenache and Mourvedre, then welcomes the addition of grapefruit and Simcoe hops, which are among the most robust American varietals. The result manages to steer clear of tasting like a grapefruit IPA and remains more wine or wine cooler. (And I thoroughly enjoyed a can of Alloy Wine Works’ sparkling Chardonnay with Amarillo hops.) “There is always a big look of surprise at first swirl,” states Jones. “IPA fans seem to love it the most and a lot of beer people who don’t usually like white wine” have also discovered it. It comes as no surprise that a good chunk of the fandom are not your grandfather’s oenophiles. “Certainly millennials,” explains Jones, “are quite adventurous and without preconceived notions of what ‘should’ be.”
58 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
For Steinwachs’s part, she enjoys Hop On in a myriad of settings from white sandy beaches to white tablecloth restaurants. “Chef Pink over at Root 246 did a wine dinner earlier this year with all of our ‘unique’ wines… She paired it with uni, and it was insanely delicious. I love it with spicy ethnic foods [such as] Szechwan, Thai or tacos… It has the acidity needed for food pairing from the wine, a bit of resinous texture to hold up to bold dishes, and aromatics that draw you in.” Likewise, Jones looks to his Dry Hop Pet Nat’s acidity—fresher and less intense than that of sour or wild ales—that’s “great for cutting through fattier items” such as charcuterie. “I had it with this salami recently that had fennel in it,” he said. You can picture him kissing his fingertips and sending it off into the ether. The spritzer, on the other hand, he keeps on hand for backyard barbecues or Cal Poly football tailgate parties. So are hopped wines for beer lovers seeking a path into wine or wine lovers angling to figure out what hop heads are all about— and in either case, can we expect to see more of this experimentation? While I discovered Buttonwood at a wine festival, the winery has poured at beer fests but, as Steinwachs admits, “People just seem confused having a winery there.” Jones seems to agree, but the rosé maker has a slightly rosier outlook. “I bet you will see a few more pop up but I don’t see it turning into anything bigger than that. People stay in one lane. It’s either a beer night or a wine night. Hopefully I am wrong, though.” Brian Yaeger is the author of Red, White, and Brew and contributed to the Oxford Companion to Beer. He is an alumnus of UC Santa Barbara, where he developed a beer tasting class through Gaucho REC Classes.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 59
PASCALE BEALE
60 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Everything but the Bird Plant-Based Celebrations For the Holidays by Pascale Beale
I
celebrated my first Thanksgiving on a frigid day in We started with soup, a tradition I kept up for the better Newport, Rhode Island, in 1985. Having not grown up part of next three decades, but the rest of the meal resembled with this traditional gathering, nor being well-versed in a peculiar Thanksgiving-cum-English Christmas-cum French its culinary rituals, I watched with rapt attention as my good New Year mash up. As I look back over the menus (yes, I friend Brooke produced a gargantuan feast, complete with confess to having them all written down), a distinct trend took steaming bowls of squash soup, gigantic stuffed bird, mounds hold. We always had a soup and a big, big bird. Stuffing usually of butter-and-cream-laced mashed potatoes, bowls of stuffing, comprised something with wild mushrooms, and we made a vegetables and lots of pies. Grand Marnier cranberry coulis every year. Potatoes were also present, as were copious amounts of cheese, large green salads, Inclement weather raged around the house while the pots braised vegetables and platters of and pans steamed in the kitchen. I desserts, enough to satisfy the most chopped, she cooked, and cooked Without getting bogged down in gourmand among us. I can feel my some more. Unfortunately, Mother statistics, it is evident that many stomach groaning at some of these Nature rendered traveling any menus now. distance hazardous, and one by people are changing the way one friends and family called to say Two years ago, I floated the idea they eat, not just occasionally but they just couldn’t get to us. Our to my family that we have a meal that throughout the year. guest list dwindled from more than comprised “everything but the bird.” a dozen to just three. Undeterred, I noted, to all present, that the bird in we feasted on the meal by candlelight, and ate endless leftovers question had significantly dwindled in size over the years, the with friends for the following week. Brooke set a high standard last one barely weighing 10 pounds, and that we could dispense for Thanksgiving meals. I endeavored to follow suit as I took with it altogether. This proposal was met with silent stares, up the mantle of chief cook the following year. which quietly put an end to it. I think, however I will try again this year. As I peruse the menus from the last five years, they One problem became immediately apparent. As I now lived catalog a growing vegetarian feast. Gone are the rich dishes of in Los Angeles, it wasn’t freezing cold outside, and the guest list the 1980s and ’90s. In their place a new trend has emerged, a comprised a motley crew of French and English expats left to veritable cornucopia of herbaceous salads, roasted vegetables their own devices as our American friends departed for home. and fruit-filled concoctions. We settled on a hybrid menu more suited to the 80° weather, and to satisfy the culinary preferences of the transcontinental We have all been witness to the growing trend toward a guest list. more plant-based diet. This movement is showcased across
Opposite: Pear, Arugula and Mint Salad
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 61
PASCALE BEALE
62 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
most social media platforms. Our Instagram feeds are filled with images of beautiful produce, new vegetable-centric cookbooks abound and grocery stores have hugely expanded their organic produce and plant-based-food selections. This is a response to demand from consumers who want to know not just where their food comes from, but how it is grown and the impact it has on the environment. PlantBasedFoods.org, an organization that promotes the plant-based food industry, recently cited new data released by the Plant Based Foods Association and The Good Food Institute showing U.S. retail sales of plant-based foods have grown 11% in the past year, bringing the total plant-based market value to $4.5 billion. The total U.S. retail food market grew just 2% during this same period, emphasizing the fact that plant-based foods are one of the main drivers of growth for retailers nationwide. In the last two years, total plantbased-food sales have increased an impressive 31%. Without getting bogged down in statistics, it is evident that many people are changing the way they eat, not just occasionally but throughout the year. Leaf through many recently published cookbooks and you will often see gorgeous, top down, two-page spreads of tables festooned with vegetable dishes, inspired by Middle Eastern mezze, Iberian Peninsula tapas, and the small and shared plates trend that proliferate in many modern California-nouvellecuisine-esque establishments. These images are intentionally seductive, and their rich tapestry of aromatic plates shout EAT ME! with a subtle subtext that it’s all good for you too. It’s been nearly a decade since Michael Pollan urged us all to “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants,” and that mantra has been taken up with gusto by eschewing the heavy consumption of meats and processed foods in everything from lunchtime packed lunches to celebratory feasts. This is true of the food I eat with my family at home, and in the cooking classes I now teach, partly because I love to eat this way and partly as a result of demand. So now, as we head into the holiday season, I once again ask myself and those with whom I will share those holiday tables, is it time to have a completely meatless Thanksgiving? Food in the context of holiday gatherings is quite an emotionally charged subject, and people have a resistance to change. However, if, as the philosopher Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, suggested in The Physiology of Taste, “… an intelligently planned feast is like a summing up of the whole world, where each part is represented by its envoys,” and if today’s envoys are clamoring for a change, is it time to embrace it? I’ll let you know! Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of The Menu for All Seasons, Salade, Les Fruits and Les Legumes. Visit her website and blog: The Market Table at PascalesKitchen.com.
Recipes From Pascale’s new book, Salade II: More Recipes from the Market Table
Cauliflower, Quinoa and Herb Salad Makes 8 servings
FOR THE SALAD 1 cup red quinoa, thoroughly rinsed 1 cup vegetable stock 1 large cauliflower, florets separated and grated, either on a box grater or in a food processor 1 cup finely chopped parsley 1 cup finely chopped cilantro 1
⁄ 2 cup finely chopped chives
1
⁄ 2 cup finely chopped mint
1
⁄ 2 cup sesame seeds
1
⁄ 2 cup chopped pistachios
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE 1
⁄ 4 cup olive oil
Juice of 2 Meyer lemons 2 tablespoons sesame oil Salt Pepper
Place the quinoa in a saucepan with the vegetable stock and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover and cook until the quinoa has absorbed all the liquid. You can also cook the quinoa in a rice cooker, using the same proportions. Once cooked, fluff with a fork and let cool. In a large salad bowl combine the cooled quinoa, cauliflower, parsley, cilantro, chives and mint. Be sure to mix well so that the ingredients are evenly distributed throughout the salad. Place the sesame seeds and pistachios in a medium-sized skillet placed over medium heat. Dry roast in the pan about 1–2 minutes, until just fragrant. Add to the salad and stir to combine. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice and sesame oil to form an emulsion. Pour over the cauliflower mixture. Season with a good pinch of salt and 10–12 grinds of pepper and combine thoroughly. Serve at room temperature.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 63
Roasted Kale and Sweet Potato Salad Makes 8 servings
FOR THE SALAD 1 pound curly kale, rinsed (but not dried), de-stemmed and chopped into 1-inch-wide strips Olive oil Sea salt Black pepper 2 large sweet potatoes, peeled, halved lengthwise, then cut into ¼-inch-thick slices 2 teaspoons Herbes de Poisson (or an equal mixture of fennel seeds, coriander seeds and brown mustard seeds) 1
⁄ 3 cup roughly chopped pistachios
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE 1
⁄ 4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or champagne vinegar 1 avocado, peeled and the meat scooped out Juice of 1 lemon Sea salt Black pepper
Preheat oven to 350°. Place the kale onto a large rimmed sheet pan or into a shallow baking dish. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with 2–3 pinches of salt and 5–6 grinds of pepper. Roast in the center of the oven for 8 minutes. Place the lightly cooked kale into a large salad bowl. Using the same pan, lay the sweet potato slices out in a single layer. Use a second sheet pan, if they appear overcrowded. Drizzle with a little olive oil and sprinkle the Herbes de Poisson over the top. Roast for 20–25 minutes, turning potatoes over once. They should be fork tender and lightly browned. Place the roasted sweet potato slices on top of the kale. To make the vinaigrette, pour the olive oil into a small bowl and whisk in the vinegar. Add the avocado meat and mash together with a fork. Add the lemon juice, a good pinch of salt and 8–10 grinds of pepper and whisk with the fork, so that all the ingredients form a homogenous, though slightly chunky, vinaigrette.
PASCALE BEALE
Spoon the vinaigrette, and sprinkle the pistachios over the salad. Serve warm.
64 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Rainbow Carrot Salad Makes 8 servings 2 pounds fresh, assorted multicolored carrots, peeled and grated (use the largest holes on a box grater) 1
⁄ 4 cup olive oil
Juice and zest of 2–3 lemons 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley 1
⁄ 3 cup toasted pine nuts
8 dates (Barhi or Medjool if possible), pitted and chopped Sea salt Black pepper
Place the carrots in a large salad bowl. Drizzle the olive oil and lemon juice over the carrots. Sprinkle the lemon zest, parsley, pine nuts and dates over the carrots and add a generous pinch of salt and 7–8 grinds of pepper. Toss well to combine at least 10 minutes before serving.
Pear, Arugula and Mint Salad See photo on page 60. Makes 8 servings 8 ounces baby arugula 1
⁄ 2 cup packed mint leaves
1
⁄ 4 cup packed cilantro leaves
1
⁄ 2 cup bean sprouts
4 Bosc pears, halved, cored and thinly sliced 2 ounces crumbled feta 2 tablespoons finely chopped chives Flake salt Black pepper
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE 1
⁄ 4 cup olive oil
Juice of 1 Meyer lemon 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger
Cover the center of a large platter with the arugula, mint, cilantro and bean sprouts. Arrange the pear slices in small fans of 4–6 slices, tucking them into the mixed greens. Scatter the feta and chives over the salad, adding a sprinkling of flake salt and 8–10 grinds of pepper over the top. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinaigrette ingredients to form an emulsion. When ready to serve, pour the vinaigrette over the salad.
PASCALE BEALE
Pinch of salt
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 65
WIN FATLELRE E DD I BI LBEL E VEEVNETN S TS FR ID AY– SUN D AY
Event
S AT U RD AY
S AT U RD AY
OCTOBER 4–6
OCTOBER 12
OCTOBER 12
California Avocado Festival
Santa Barbara Wine & Seafood Pairing
Santa Barbara Harbor & Seafood Festival
Noon–3pm at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum
10am–5pm at 132-A Harbor Way Santa Barbara
Linden Ave., Carpinteria
O C T O B ER
edible
One of the largest free festivals in California with over 75 music acts on four stages. Come celebrate the importance of the avocado to the Carpinteria Valley. Avo Expo Tent, Largest Avocado Contest and World’s Largest Vat of Guacamole are just a few things not to miss. Come hungry and enjoy some avocado creations. Free. AvoFest.com
Join us as we celebrate fall and local seafood on the museum patio overlooking the Santa Barbara Harbor. Enjoy local wine paired with small bites by restaurants Root 246, Corazon Cucina, Bluewater Grill and SoulCal Smokehouse $30 in advance, $40 at the door; SBMM.org or 805 456-8747 for tickets.
Seafood lovers of all ages can go to the Harbor for delectable regional seafood specialties, cooking demonstrations, interactive maritime education, boat rides, live music and more. Free admission. HarborFestival.org
T HU RSDAY–SU ND AY
THUR SD AY
F R I D AY
S AT U RD AY
OCTOBER 17–20
OCTOBER 17
OCTOBER 18
OCTOBER 19
Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley
Bell Street Restaurant Dinner
Cooking Class with Chef Robin Goldstein
2–5pm on First St. in downtown Solvang
Inaugural food, wine and experiential event. Takes place in the six Wine Country towns of Los Alamos, Santa Ynez, Los Olivos, Solvang, Ballard and Buellton. Restaurants, wineries, tasting rooms and more will welcome you with nine main events and dozens of ancillary happenings spread throughout the region. TasteSYV.com for tickets.
5:30–9pm on Bell Street in Los Alamos A seated dinner served at a lengthy communal table, open-air, in the middle of Los Alamos. Featuring Clark Staub, Full of Life Flatbread; Drew Terp, Pico at the Los Alamos General Store; Daisy Ryan, Bell’s Restaurant; and Bob Oswaks, Bob’s Well Bread Bakery. Wines from Riverbench Vineyard & Winery, Casa Dumetz, Lumen, Lo-Fi, Bedford Winery, Municipal Winemakers, A Tribute to Grace, Tatomer and Bevela. Tickets at VisitSYV.com.
SATU RDAY
Various locations around the Santa Ynez Valley
2–4pm at The Baker’s Table in Santa Ynez
Solvang Stomp
Featuring selections from Chef Robin’s cookbooks, wine pairings from Max Hoetzel’s F2 Wines and bread from The Baker’s Table. VisitSYV.com for tickets.
Celebrate the annual wine harvest in the Santa Ynez Valley with a traditional grape stomp, sip from dozens of Santa Barbara County’s best wineries, savor locally prepared food, drink pink in the I Love Rosé lounge and dance the afternoon away. $125 VIP; $75 GA; TasteSYV.com for tickets.
S AT U R D AY
S AT U R D AY
S U N D AY
OCTOBER 19
OCTOBER 19
OCTOBER 19
OCTOBER 20
Harvest Festival Open House
Cooking Class with Chef Budi Kazali
Roots of the Future: A White Buffalo Land Trust Benefit
11am–4pm at Lafond Winery and Vineyard, 6855 Santa Rosa Rd. in Buellton
11am–1:30pm at the Gathering Table in Ballard
4–10pm at Sunstone’s Private Villa in Santa Ynez
Chef Budi Kazali is known for artistically melding Asian and French cuisine to deliver a truly delectable menu that features seasonal, locally sourced produce, seafood, and meat. Budi will open his kitchen and restaurant for a cooking class for only 25 people sharing his cooking secrets and signature dishes. Tickets at TasteSYV.com.
A spectacular evening of food and drink, highlighting multiple collaborations, including Sama Sama Kitchen, Barbareño, Root 246, The Food Liaison, Jessica Foster Confections, The Good Lion, Potek Winery and more. Share a vision of what a thriving, regenerative food system will look and feel like. Tickets at WhiteBuffaloLandTrust.org.
SUN D AY
S AT U R D AY
OCTOBER 20
OCTOBER 23
OCTOBER 26
OCTOBER 31
Cutting, Casing and Curing Class with Industrial Eats
Santa Maria Empty Bowls
Real Men Cook
11am, noon and 1pm seatings at Santa Maria Fairpark
6–10pm at Flag Is Up Farms i n Solvang
Gourmet Candy and Wine Pairing
For a $25 ticket donation, Empty Bowls guests choose a beautiful handmade bowl, enjoy a simple meal of soup, bread and water and take home the bowl as a reminder of the meal’s purpose: to feed the hungry in our community. Proceeds benefit the Foodbank of Santa Barbara County. Purchase tickets online at FoodbankSBC.org or 805 937-3422 x104 or at the Foodbank in Santa Maria.
This event, often referred to as “The Party of the Year,” raises much-needed funds for Santa Ynez Valley arts education nonprofit Arts Outreach. Up to 60 amateur chefs will show off their culinary skills as they serve up tastes of their carefully prepared dishes. $65. To purchase tickets, visit ArtsOutreach.com.
F E B R U A RY
Sip new releases and your usual favorites alongside an artisanal cheese spread, fresh bread and desserts. Tickets available at the door. $20 for non-members, complimentary for members.
SU NDAY
10:30am–1pm at Industrial Eats in Buellton Learn the ins and outs of cutting, casing and curing and how sausage, copa, guanciale, bacon and pancetta are made with Industrial Eats and Jake Francis of Valley Piggery, an expert chef and heritage pig breeder. Wine and snacks will be served throughout the class and it will end with a delicious lunch. Tickets at VisitSYV.com.
66 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Sideways Fest Noon–4pm at Riverview Park in Buellton Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley culminates with a Sideways Wine Festival Grand Tasting at Buellton’s Riverview Park, featuring wine, beer and food from all over the Santa Ynez Valley, accompanied by live music. 40+ Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Barbara County wineries to sample. TasteSYV.com for tickets.
T H U R S D AY
11am–5:30pm at Riverbench Winery in the Funk Zone Stop by on Halloween and dive into a spookydelicious pairing of gourmet candy and our estate-grown wines. $20 includes flight of four wines and candy pairing. Member tastings complimentary. Riverbench.com
For updates and more details on these and other events, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com SATUR DAY
NOVEMBER 2 Sauerkraut Master Class 10am–12:30pm at the SBCC Schott Campus
NO VE M AY MBER
Learn to make your own delicious sauerkraut and learn how to incorporate it into your daily diet. After discussing best practices, watching demonstrations and making your own four pounds of sauerkraut, you’ll enjoy a lunch featuring spicy kraut, curry kraut and traditional caraway kraut. Register at SBCCExtendedLearningFee.org.
edible Event
T H U RS D AY
S AT U R DAY
NOVEMBER 7–21
NOVEMBER 9
Crafting Cocktails Class
Edible SB Farmers Market Cooking Demo
6:15–8:45pm at the SBCC Schott Campus Hands-on course that introduces students to a variety of cocktails and a number of locally produced spirits—from vodkas and gins to bourbons and other whiskeys. Learn terminology and techniques that will enhance enjoyment behind the bar. Make and taste classic cocktails along with paired appetizers. 21+. Register at SBCCExtendedLearningFee.org.
9:30am–noon at the Santa Barbara Farmers Market Join Edible Santa Barbara and Sansum Clinic for our quarterly cooking demonstrations by local chefs, farmers and Sansum Clinic staff. Learn how to incorporate healthful, seasonal produce and market ingredients into your daily cooking routine.
S ATU RDAY
SUN D AY
T U ES D AY
S AT U R DAY
NOVEMBER 9
NOVEMBER 10
NOVEMBER 12
NOVEMBER 23
Holiday Cookies: Shortbread to Biscotti
Santa Barbara Empty Bowls
Pastry Classics Class
Wine and Doughnut Pairing
11am, noon and 1pm seatings at Ben Page Youth Center, Santa Barbara
11am–3pm at the SBCC Schott Campus
10am–3pm at Riverbench Winery in Santa Maria
For a ticket donation of $30, guests choose a beautiful handmade bowl, enjoy a simple meal of soup, bread and water and take home the bowl as a reminder of the meal’s purpose to feed the hungry in our community. After lunch, tour the Foodbank next door and learn about ways to get involved. Tickets available at FoodbankSBC.org.
Discover the successful process to making perfect pies and one-of-a-kind pie crust that will have everyone asking you for seconds. You will learn simple and easy tarts to sophisticated European creations during this hands-on learning experience. Learn how to make new and exciting pastry delights. Register at SBCCExtendedLearningFee.org.
Featuring God’s Country Provisions doughnuts, this wine and doughnut pairing will not disappoint. Pre-order is required since the doughnuts will be baked to order and picked up that morning. Ticket holders may come in on Saturday to redeem their tickets for a delicious wine and food pairing flight. $10–25. Riverbench.com
SATUR D AY
S AT U R D AY
S AT U RD AY – SU NDAY
11am–3pm at the SBCC Schott Campus Take your cookie creations to the next level and learn how to make a variety of holiday favorites: shortbread, bar cookies, cutout cookies, different kinds of biscotti. Learn new techniques and decorating skills. Students make and take home an assortment of cookies ready to give as gifts or to enjoy with family and friends. Register at SBCCExtendedLearningFee.org.
D E C E MBER
DECEMBER 7
DECEMBER 7
DECEMBER 7–8
Fragrant Feast: Indian Vegetarian Class
Buttonwood Holiday Bazaar
Christmas on the Trail
12:30–3:30pm at Buttonwood Farm & Winery in Solvang
Join the Foxen Canyon wineries for this special holiday weekend event. Your $45 Passport gets you 20 one-ounce pours you can “spend” at 13 participating wineries on the famous Foxen Canyon Wine Trail. Enjoy small bites at each winery on Saturday. Come back Sunday for live music, food trucks and more. $45; tickets at FoxenCanyonWineTrail.net.
11am–2pm at the SBCC Schott Campus Master the delicious vegetarian dishes of India, from pakoras and chutney to paneer and palao. Authentic recipes and hands-on practice will provide a unique cooking experience. Discover the proper uses and combinations of spices and herbs. Register at SBCCExtendedLearningFee.org.
Local artisans, live music and mulled wine—this free event will be held at the beautiful Buttonwood Farm and Winery. Shop local this season with beautiful gifts from local vendors. ButtonwoodWinery.com
SU NDAY
S AT U RD AY
T U E S DAY
DECEMBER 8
DECEMBER 14
DECEMBER 31
Pascale’s Kitchen Holiday Boutique
Glitter Your Own Wine Bottle Workshop
NYE Wine Pairing: Chocolate Truffles & Bubbles
11am–4:30pm
10am–noon at Riverbench Winery in the Funk Zone
10am–2pm at Riverbench Winery in the Funk Zone
Choose your favorite Riverbench wine and one of our bedazzling artists, Robin, will coach you through decorating your own sparkling wine bottle. Glittering workshop includes your choice of glitter colors and supplies needed to create your own special bottle. Must be 21+. $10 (wine bottle sold separately). Tickets at Riverbench.com.
Enjoy a Riverbench sparkling wine tasting flight along with four decadent chocolate truffles made by local favorite Jessica Foster Confections. Pre-purchase your handmade truffles and come on New Year’s Eve to enjoy. $10 ticket includes box of four truffles. Wine tasting flight is sold separately. Tickets at Riverbench.com.
Please join us for a day of delicious treats, exotic tastes, exquisite items for the kitchen, home and much more from Pascale’s Kitchen. Find the perfect treat for yourself or a beautiful gift for the holidays. For additional information, 805 965-5112. PascalesKitchen.com
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 67
edible
SA NTA BARBA R A COUNT Y
E AT DRINK LOC AL GUIDE Santa Barbara County has its own unique food tradition and lifestyle. We’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants, bakeries, food producers and specialty retail shops that contribute to the distinctively Santa Barbara experience. From Ballard to Carpinteria, and from catering to wine tasting, our Guide will help you find what you are looking for and more.
Farms & Ranches Babé Farms 805 925-4144 BabeFarms.com Babé Farms boasts a year-round harvest of colorful baby and specialty vegetables, grown in the Santa Maria Valley. Family owned and operated, Babé Farms is the “couture” label top chefs and fine retailers look to for their gourmet vegetable needs.
Jimenez Family Farm 805 688-0597 JimenezFamilyFarm.com Small family-run local farm specializes in sustainably grown food and their famous handmade pies, quiches and small-batch preserves. Visit them at the farmers market to purchase produce, pies, jams and naturally fed and farm-raised rabbit, lamb, pork, goat and poultry.
Winfield Farm 805 686-9312 WinfieldFarm.us Taste the magic of Winfield Mangalitsa! Mangalitsa ground pork (the real hamburger) and hickory smoked bacon are now featured in the Larder Meat Company’s Larder Club meat box, delivered monthly throughout California (sign up at http://www.lardermeatco.com). You can also order through our Mangalitsa Market on the Winfield Farm website—please call first! Follow us on Facebook (WinfieldFarmBuellton), Twitter (@ WinfieldFarm.us) and Instagram (Winfield_Farm).
Food & Restaurants Backyard Bowls 5668 Calle Real, Goleta, 805 770-2730 3849 State St. Santa Barbara, 805 569-0011 331 Motor Way, Santa Barbara, 805 845-5379 BackyardBowls.com Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.
68 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Ballard Inn & Gathering Table
Bob’s Well Bread
2436 Baseline Ave., Ballard, 805 688-7770 BallardInn.com
550 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-3000 BobsWellBread.com
Elegant accommodations, attentive staff and awardwinning cuisine make the Ballard Inn & Gathering Table one of the most sought-after small luxury inns in the Santa Barbara Wine Country.
Making bread the old-fashioned way: handcrafted in small batches with the finest ingredients and baked to perfection in a custom-built stone-deck oven. Drop in to taste what visitors and journalists are raving about as “worth the drive”—signature Pain au Levain, awardwinning artisanal breads, croissants and specialty pastries. All-day menu of made-to-order breakfast, lunch and weekly special dishes. Indoor-outdoor picturesque café. Thu–Mon 7am–6pm. Café closes at 3pm. Closed Tue and Wed.
Barbareño 205 W. Canon Perdido St., Santa Barbara 805 963-9591 Barbareno.com Offering an approachable take on the fine-dining experience, Barbareño highlights the traditions and specialties of the Central Coast through creative story-driven dishes and ingredients from local farmers. Sit in the main dining room and enjoy the enticing atmosphere of an open kitchen, or outside on the lush patio alongside the Santa Maria grill. Dinner nightly 5–9:30pm; closed Tue.
Bettina Montecito Country Mart 1014 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 770-2383 BettinaPizzeria.com A cozy neighborhood restaurant serving naturally leavened Neapolitan-style pizza made with seasonal California ingredients. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or just grabbing a spritz at the bar, Bettina is committed to simplicity, community and hospitality that makes guests feel at home. Open daily 11:30am–10pm. Aperitivo hour Mon–Fri 3–5pm with drink specials and $10 margherita pizzas.
Bluewater Grill 15 E. Cabrillo Blvd., Santa Barbara, 805 845-5121 BluewaterGrill.com Come in and get hooked on the best in fresh, sustainable seafood. Enjoy a waterfront patio, full bar, happy hour, extensive local wine selection and the best harbor view in Santa Barbara. Open 11am–9pm Sun–Thu, 11am–10pm Fri–Sat
Bossie’s Kitchen 901 N. Milpas St., Santa Barbara, 805 770-1700 BossiesKitchen.com Located in the historic D’Alfonso building with the cow on top, Bossie’s Kitchen offers seasonal farmers market dishes in a casual counter service setting. Chef-wife team Christina Olufson and Lauren Herman’s menu features garlic and herb-roasted chicken, sandwiches on house-made bread, soups, salads, sides and nightly specials. Open for lunch Tue–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; dinner Tue–Sun 5pm–close; brunch Sat–Sun 10am– 2pm; happy hour Tue-Fri 4:30–6pm. Closed Mon.
Bouchon 9 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 730-1160 BouchonSantaBarbara.com Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “asfresh-and-as-local-as-possible” approach. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly 5–10pm.
Bragg Live Foods Bragg.com Founded in 1912 by Dr. Paul C. Bragg and now run by his daughter Dr. Patricia Bragg in Goleta, Bragg Live Food Products offers organic and natural health products and publishes self-health books. Available locally at Fairview Gardens’ Farm Stand, Lassen’s, Gladden and Sons, Tri-County Produce, Whole Foods Market, Lazy Acres and in the health section of your neighborhood grocery store.
Bree’Osh 1150 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-2500 Breeosh.com Bree’Osh is a French artisan bakery café specializing in sweet and savory brioche bread made with traditional sourdough. Featuring local, organic, highquality ingredients. Serving breakfast and lunch daily 7am–2pm.
Ca’ Dario 37 E. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 884-9419 38 W. Victoria St. (inside the Santa Barbara Public Market), 805 884-9419 250 Storke Rd., Goleta, 805 884-9419 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito CaDario.net Chef Dario Furlati’s flagship eatery offers a fine Italian dining experience featuring authentic recipes made with fresh, local ingredients. Handmade pastas, local seafood, weekly farmers market specials and an extensive Italian wine list. Located in the heart of the downtown Arts District. Serving lunch and dinner Sun–Thu 11:30am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm. Ca'Dario Pizzeria in the Public Market offers a casual, urban atmosphere to enjoy authentic pizzas, salads and appetizers. Open daily 11am–9pm. Ca' Dario Cucina Italiana in Goleta is open Mon–Sat 11am-9pm.
Chocolate Maya 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara, 805 965-5956 ChocolateMaya.com Chocolate Maya handmade chocolate confections: a variety of velvety truffles and chocolate-dipped temptations that are made from the highest-quality chocolate (Valrhona, Felchlin, Mesocacao including small beanto-bar artisans couverture) fresh local ingredients and exotic findings from their travels overseas.
La Cocina 7 E. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara, 805 277-7730 LaCocinaSB.com Farm-to-table Central Coast Baja Cuisine in the heart of downtown Santa Barbara’s theatre district. Enjoy seasonal south of the border–inspired cocktails and snacks at the bar or slip away to Baja for an authentic meal in the dining room or al fresco on the breathtaking patio. Happy Hour Mon–Fri 4:30–6:30pm, dinner 5pm–close.
Corazón Cocina 38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-0282 CorazonCocinaSB.com Located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market, offering homemade, local, unique and fresh cocina Mexicana. Join Chef Ramón Velazquez for fresh ceviches, mouthwatering tacos and homemade agua frescas. Open Mon–Fri 11am–9pm; Sat–Sun 10am–9pm.
The Food Liaison 1033 Casitas Pass Rd., Carpinteria, 805 200-3030 TheFoodLiaison.com Catering. Counter. Classes. Utilizing many locally grown organic ingredients, enjoy daily rotating entrées and soups, seasonal menu and gourmet salad bar. Corporate and event catering since 2013. Sign up for cooking classes online. Lunch counter Mon–Fri 11am–3pm.
Giannfranco’s Trattoria 666 Linden Ave., Carpinteria, 805 684-0720 Giannfrancos.com Experience authentic Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and family-operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties.
Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm; closed Tue.
award two years running. Open Tue–Thu 3–9pm; Fri–Sat noon–10pm; Sun Burger Night noon–9pm.
The Hitching Post II
Plow & Angel at San Ysidro Ranch
406 E. Hwy. 246, Buellton, 805 688-0676 HitchingPost2.com
900 San Ysidro Ln., Santa Barbara, 805 565-1700 SanYsidroRanch.com
A favorite of locals and visitors since 1986. Serving wood-grilled fare, prepared in the regional barbecue tradition, along with their highly regarded Hitching Post Wines. Casual and relaxed setting.
Enjoy a comfortable, convivial atmosphere in this locals’ favorite. Famous for its mac ’n’ cheese and awardwinning ribs, the Plow & Angel is the place to see and be seen. The cozy ambiance is enhanced with original artwork, including gorgeous stained-glass windows and an homage to its namesake, Saint Isadore, hanging above the fireplace. Open for dinner 5–10pm; bar open 5–11pm weekdays and until midnight Fri–Sat.
Il Fustino La Arcada 1100 State St. San Roque Plaza, 3401 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-3521 ilFustino.com Il Fustino is Santa Barbara’s first and finest olive oil and vinegar tasting room. Il Fustino purveys only the finest and freshest olive oils, all grown and milled in California. They also provide an unparalleled selection of artisan vinegars. La Arcada: Open Mon–Fri 11am– 6pm, Sat 11am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm. San Roque Plaza: Open Mon–Fri 11am–6pm, Sat 11am–5pm, Sun 10am–3pm.
Plow to Porch 805 895-7171 PlowToPorch.com Plow to Porch Organics is a local organic/pesticide-free produce and grocery delivery service to members who subscribe. They simplify the purchase of local fresh organic produce and other organic, local foods in order to inspire good nutrition, support local farmers, protect the environment and make eating healthy food fun!
Lazy Acres
The Project
302 Meigs Rd., Santa Barbara, 805 564-4410 LazyAcres.com
214 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 869-2820 TheProjectSB.com
Santa Barbara’s best source for wholesome, natural and organic foods and products with real people dedicated to providing unmatched personal service. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm, Sun 7am–10pm.
Featuring modern Mexican cuisine, intriguing cocktails and a 20-beer taproom in the heart of the Funk Zone. Open Sun–Thu 8am–10pm; Fri–Sat 8am–11pm. Serving brunch on Sat and Sun mornings.
McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams
Ramen Kotori
120 State St., Suite B, Santa Barbara, 805 324-4061 728 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 324-4402 McConnells.com
1618 Copenhagen Dr., Solvang, 805 691-9672 RamenKotori.com
McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams, founded in Santa Barbara in 1949, is now in its third generation of family ownership. They make their ice creams as they always have: from scratch, using Central Coast, grassgrazed milk, cream and the finest local, sustainable and organic ingredients from partner farms, artisans and purveyors they’ve worked with for decades. No preservatives. No stabilizers. No additives. Ever. A 70year sweet legacy of keeping it real.
Montecito Country Mart 1016 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-9664 MontecitoCountryMart.com The Montecito Country Mart has been renovated and preserved, with its original barbershop, post office, market and old-fashioned toy store, as well as Rori’s Artisanal Creamery, Bettina, Merci, Caffe Luxxe, CO Collections, Kendall Conrad, Little Alex’s, Malia Mills, Hudson Grace, James Perse and Space NK Apothecary. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun 10am–5pm.
Olive Hill Farm 2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos, 805 693-0700 OliveHillFarm.com Specializing in local olive oils, flavored oils and balsamic vinegars as well as many locally produced food products. Olive oil and vinegar tastings with fresh local bread available. Open daily 11am–5pm.
Pico 458 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1122 PicoLosAlamos.com Located in the historic 1880 General Store, offering a casual dining experience with innovative cuisine made from locally-sourced ingredients. Co-owner/Chef Drew Terp worked under Michelin-star chefs, including José Andres, Alain Ducasse and Masa. The extensive wine list has earned a Wine Enthusiast “Top 100 Wine Restaurant”
Mom-and-pop ramen shop offering farmers market– inspired Japanese dishes including traditional Shoyu ramen, Karaage Japanese fried chicken, gyoza pot stickers, kimchi fried rice and seasonal pickles. Open Wed–Sun noon–2:30pm for lunch and 5:30–9pm for dinner.
Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro 3315 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 569-2400 1324 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 892-280 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 324-4200 RenaudsBakery.com Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for breakfast and lunch. Open Mon–Sat 7am–5pm; Sun 7am–3pm.
Root 246 420 Alisal Rd., Solvang, 805 686-8681 Root-246.com Solvang restaurant Root 246, in the heart of Santa Barbara Wine Country, boasts inspired and inventive menus by Chef Crystal “Pink” DeLongpré, who crafts seasonal dishes rooted in her food philosophy of utilizing local, organic vegetables and organic, grassfed, pasture-raised animals. Expansive wine and spirits lists, hand-crafted cocktails. Open at 4pm, Tue–Sun. Late night in the lounge: Fri and Sat until midnight.
Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market 805 962-5354 SBFarmersMarket.org
Six markets, six days a week. Schedule on page 11.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 69
Santa Barbara Smokehouse
Susie Q’s Brand
Babi’s Beer Emporium
805 966-9796 SBSmokehouse.com
SusieQBbrand.com/edible
380 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1911 BabisBeerEmporium.com
The Santa Barbara Smokehouse produces highestquality smoked salmon utilizing traditional, artisanal methods. From their rope-hung Cambridge House Private Reserve smoked salmon, to Cambridge House wild and hot smoked salmon, years of artisanal tradition go into every batch.
Founded in 1981, Susie Q's is the original maker of artisan foods capturing the flavors of Santa Maria Style Barbeque, a regional culinary tradition rooted in the Santa Maria Valley. From signature seasonings to delectable sauces, varietal beans to delicious desserts, their recipes are inspired by the local ingredients and local tradition.
Savoy Café & Deli
A Taste of California
Barden Wines
PrivateChefRobin.com
32 El Paseo in the center courtyard, Santa Barbara, 805 845-8777 BardenWines.com
24 W. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 962-6611 TheSavoyCafe.com A family owned and operated café featuring scratch cooking. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner for the past 12 years. Award-winning salad bar, bakery, soup, hot and cold prepared foods, coffee and tea bar and excellent selection of wines by the glass. Cozy atmosphere, dog friendly patio. Open Mon–Sat 7am–8:30pm; closed Sun.
San Ysidro Ranch 900 San Ysidro Ln., Santa Barbara, 805 565-1700 SanYsidroRanch.com Now reopened! Nestled in the Montecito foothills of Southern California’s Wine Country, San Ysidro Ranch has provided a tranquil vacation destination for over a century. Visit the Stonehouse, named one of the 50 best restaurants in America by Open Table, or visit Plow & Angel for a comfortable and convivial atmosphere.
Solvang Olive Company 1578 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 213-1399 SolvangOliveCo.com Solvang Olive features locally grown olive oils, fruit and balsamic vinegar and handcrafted gourmet olives. The Solvang store also carries olive oil beauty products, tableware and cooking ingredients created by Californian artisans. Tasting room open Mon–Thu 10am–5pm, Fri–Sun 10am–6pm.
Soul Cal Smokehouse 38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara 805 770-7925 SoulCalSmokehouse.com Located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market, Soul Cal Smokehouse is Santa Barbara’s only BBQ joint serving Southern smoked meats alongside local farmers market produce. Open daily 11am–9pm.
Stonehouse at San Ysidro Ranch 900 San Ysidro Ln., Santa Barbara, 805 565-1700 SanYsidroRanch.com Located in a 19th-century citrus-packing house, the Stonehouse features a relaxing lounge with full bar service and a separate dining room with crackling fireplace and creekside views. Guests can dine on the ocean-view deck––a wood-burning fireplace and heated stone flooring provide year-round comfort. The regional cuisine is prepared with a palette of herbs and vegetables harvested from the on-site chef’s garden. Lunch 11:30am–2pm Mon–Sat; dinner 6–10pm daily; Sun Champagne brunch 10:30am–2pm.
Succulent Café Wine Charcuterie 1555 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 691-9444 SucculentCafe.com Comfort food with a twist, prepared with seasonal and local farm-fresh ingredients. The best charcuterie plates around feature farm-fresh cheese, house-made jam, pickled vegetables, nuts and fruit. Great local wine, craft beer and signature cocktails. Open Mon, Wed– Fri 10am–9pm, Sat–Sun 8:30am–9pm; Happy Hour 3–5pm; Closed Tuesday.
70 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
Chef Robin shares her delicious recipes and taste infusions through her popular Cookbooks and her edible treats, salts and spice blends in local stores and on her website. Please contact Chef Robin for special orders or wholesale orders at robin@privatechefrobin.com.
Wine & Beer Alma Rosa Winery 250 Industrial Way A, Buellton, 805 688-9092 AlmaRosaWinery.com Alma Rosa wines express the distinctive spirit and character of the soils, sun exposure, fog, cooling winds and over four decades of experience in this beautiful Sta. Rita Hills sub-region of Santa Barbara Wine Country. Tasting room open Fri–Sun 11am–5:30pm; Mon–Thur noon–5:30pm.
Andrew Murray Vineyards 5249 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos, 805 686-9604 AndrewMurrayVineyards.com Andrew Murray, a grape-growing pioneer and Rhône varietal visionary in Santa Barbara County, founded his winery in 1990. Andrew and his team look forward to sharing the AMV experience with you at their stunning Estate Winery and Visitor Center along Foxen Canyon Road. Tasting room open daily 10:30am–5:30pm.
Au Bon Climat 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-7999 AuBonClimat.com The tasting room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library are known for world-class Chardonnays and Pinots. Jim Clendenen has been making wines of vision and character for over 30 years, along with other varietals. Amazing lineup of current releases and library wines available. Tasting room open Mon–Fri noon–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am–6pm.
August Ridge Vineyards 5 E. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 770-8442 AugustRidge.com August Ridge crafts wine that combines the spirit of California with the restrained, classic elegance of wines from northern and central Italy. Distinctive wines from the Paso Robles region to be opened as you gather for a meal, surrounded by friends, family and loved ones. Tasting room open Sun–Mon, Wed–Thu noon–7pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm. Happy Hour Mon and Wed 3–6pm. Closed Tuesday.
Babcock Winery & Vineyards 5175 E. Hwy. 246, Lompoc, 805 736-1455 BabcockWinery.com A passion for revolutionary farming and conservation continue to define this family-owned Sta. Rita Hills winery. Stunning single-vineyard Pinot Noirs are showcased alongside acclaimed Chardonnays and other varietals. Chill in the super soulful tasting room filled with vintage art and eclectic treasures. Tasting room open daily 11am–5:30pm.
Great beer. Impeccable selection. Great fun. Adventurous beer drinkers can discover unique, hardto-find craft beers, ciders and special projects—on tap or in bottle. Stay to have a bite from Valle Fresh’s tacos and tapas menu. Thu 4–8pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm, Sun noon–6pm.
Located in the historic El Paseo complex, the new Barden Tasting Room focuses exclusively on wines sourced from Sta. Rita Hills, handcrafted by Margerum Wine Company. Select from a flight of current releases or exclusive Library Wines. Enjoy Barden wines by the glass on their dog-friendly patio.
Buttonwood Farm Winery 1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang, 805 688-3032 ButtonwoodWinery.com In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Tasting room open daily 11am–5pm.
Carr Winery 414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 965-7985 CarrWinery.com Carr specializes in limited-production wines including Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Cabernet Franc. Enjoy the ambiance of a working winery while sipping delicious wines on the patio or at the barrel-top bar. Wine tasting, wine on tap and wines by the glass served daily. Monthly art shows and live music. Daily 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm.
Casa Dumetz 388 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1900 CasaDumetzWines.com A boutique winery specializing in Rhône varietals crafted with premier Santa Barbara County fruit. Their wines are sold almost exclusively at their tasting room in historic Los Alamos and through their wine club. Open Thu noon–7pm; Fri–Sat 11am–7pm; Sun 11–6pm, Mon noon–4pm. Vineyard tours and barrel sampling available by appointment.
Foxen Vineyard & Winery 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-4251 FoxenVineyard.com The Foxen Boys’ winery and tasting room features Burgundian and Rhône-style wines. Visit the historic shack “Foxen 7200” for Italian and Bordeaux-style wines. Picnic tables and scenic views at both locations. Open 11am–4pm daily.
Kitá Winery 300 N. 12th St., Unit 1A, Lompoc, 805 819-1372 KitaWines.com Established in 2010 as a small, premium wine producer, Kitá’s focus is on respecting the balance of soil, climate, location and taste. The word “Kitá” means “our valley oak” in the Santa Ynez Chumash language of Samala. Open Thu–Fri 2–6pm, Sat noon–6pm and Sun noon–5pm.
Lafond Winery
Santa Barbara Winery
Vineyard: 6855 Santa Rosa Rd., Buellton, 805 688-7921 Funk Zone: 111 Yanonali St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-2020 LafondWinery.com
202 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 963-3633 SBWinery.com
Lafond Winery & Vineyards is the sister label to neighbor Santa Barbara Winery. With the first grapes belonging to Lafond Vineyards being planting in 1962, owner Pierre Lafond established the first commercial winery in Santa Barbara County. The Lafond label specializes in Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. Visit the Funk Zone tasting room Sun–Thu 10am–6pm, Fri–Sat 10am–7pm or the vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills 10am–5pm daily.
Lama Dog 116 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara 805 880-3364 LamaDog.com Craft beer taproom and bottle shop located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Open Sun–Wed 11:30am–10pm, Thu 11:30am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. @lamadog
Margerum Wine Company Tasting Room at the Hotel Californian, corner of Mason & Helena, Santa Barbara 805 845-8435 Winery Tasting Room, 59 Industrial Way, Buellton; 805-686-8500 MargerumWines.com Enjoy wine tasting at the new Tasting Room venue at the Hotel Californian in the Santa Barbara Funk Zone. Indoor and outdoor patio seating, with an indoor mezzanine that can host private events. Handcrafted Rhône varietal wines from Margerum Estate vineyard grapes and from grapes grown at top Santa Barbara County vineyards. The winery in Buellton is open on Sat–Sun for wine tasting and winery tours.
Martian Ranch & Vineyard 9110 Alisos Canyon Rd., Los Alamos 805 344-1804 MartianVineyard.com The Martian Ranch tasting room is open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Taste their estate-grown biodynamically farmed wines for an out-of-this-world experience! Winery tours daily; vineyard tours on the weekends. Enjoy wines by the glass, bocce court, horseshoe pit and dog-friendly picnic areas. Open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Mon and Tues by appointment only.
Riverbench Vineyard & Winery 137 Anacapa St., Ste. C., Santa Barbara 805 324-4100 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-8340 Riverbench.com Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara. Open in Santa Barbara 11am–6pm daily. Open in Santa Maria 10am–4pm daily.
Santa Barbara Winery is the oldest winery in Santa Barbara County. Established in 1962, Pierre Lafond pioneered the commercial vineyard business under the Santa Barbara Winery label in the Sta. Rita Hills. The winery and tasting room is located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone and is one of the only fully operating wineries of its kind in the urban district. Tasting room open Sun–Thu 10am–6pm, Fri–Sat 10am–7pm.
Wine Collector’s Room 414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 689-3569 WineCollectorsRoom.com Santa Barbara’s newest private wine storage facility. The Wine Collector’s Room has over 40 private, climatecontrolled lockers and a members-only lounge. Daily 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm.
The Wine Shepherd 30 E. Ortega St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-1012 WineShepherdSB.com The Wine Shepherd is a wine bar and wine retail shop featuring local and international wines. Taste Lumen wines made by Lane Tanner or explore the tasting menu which focuses on rare, esoteric and old vintage bottles. Located next to The Black Sheep Restaurant in Santa Barbara’s Presidio neighborhood. Open Tue–Sun.
Zaca Mesa Winery 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos 805 688-9339 ZacaMesa.com Since 1973, Zaca Mesa Winery has crafted distinctive wines from their unique mesa-top vineyard. As an early pioneer of the region, they now have 150 acres planted, specializing in the production of estate-grown Rhône-style wines. Tasting room and picnic area open daily 10am–4pm. Call for more information on winery tours and private event space.
Specialty Retail Ablitt’s Fine Cleaners & Launderers 14 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara 805 963-6677 Ablitts.com In the dry cleaning industry for over 100 years, the Ablitt family proudly uses the GreenEarth Cleaning system, which is exceptionally gentle and is not hazardous to the environment and cleans with less energy and water than traditional dry cleaners. Concierge pickup available. Open Mon–Fri 7am–7pm, Sat. 8am–5pm, closed Sun.
Buckaroo Grills 805 689-6081 BuckarooGrills.com Offering a variety of wood-burning barbecue grills with a variable speed fan system that allows you to cook as quickly as you would on a gas grill but with that coveted wood-fired flavor.
Tecolote Bookstore 1470 E. Valley Rd., Montecito 805 969-4977 Tecolote Bookstore is an independent bookstore located in the upper village of Montecito. Open Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–5pm; closed Sun.
Professional Services American Riviera Bank 525 San Ysidro Rd., Montecito, 805-335-8110 AmericanRivieraBank.com 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5942 AmericanRivieraBank.com Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Montecito branch open Mon–Thu 9am–5pm; Fri 9am–5:30pm. Santa Barbara branch open Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm.
The Foodbank of Santa Barbara County 805 967-5741 FoodbankSBC.org Working every day to move people from hunger into health. The mission of the Foodbank is to provide nourishment to those in need by acquiring and distributing safe nutritious foods via local agencies and providing education to solve hunger and nutrition problems in Santa Barbara County.
Homeowners Financial Group USA, LLC 924 Laguna St., Santa Barbara 805 869-7100 HomeownersFG.com Since 2004, Homeowners Financial Group (HFG) has been proud to help people complete one of the most important financial transactions they will ever have— purchasing a home. They are honored to serve the local Santa Barbara community and are committed to making a positive impact on a variety of levels.
Sansum Clinic SansumClinic.org Sansum Clinic’s health education programs are designed and conducted by board-certified physicians, registered dietitian nutritionists, registered nurses, certified diabetes educators, physical therapists and other specialized professionals. Many programs are free of charge and are open to all members of our community.
SBCC Foundation 805 730-4401 SBCCFoundation.org The SBCC Foundation was established in 1976 to provide Santa Barbara City College with private philanthropic support. The foundation acts in partnership with the college and bridges the gap between available public funding and institutional need, as determined by the college leadership. The SBCC Foundation provides more than $4 million annually for student success programs, scholarships, book grants and other critical needs of the college in order to support SBCC students as they prepare for careers, transfer to four-year universities and pursue lifelong learning goals.
Visit Santa Maria SantaMariaValley.com Just like our barbecue, the recipe for our way of life requires simplicity, character, soul and a touch of spice. Hit the road and explore all you can do in and around Santa Maria Valley. You’ll find it’s the perfect home base, where you can eat, drink and do more for less.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 71
AS
T
THE
L
Braised Short Rib with Oyster Mushrooms at
First & Oak
Fall’s
Don’t-Miss Dish Words and photos by Liz Dodder
Earlier this summer, the respected Michelin Guide to highquality restaurants around the world announced its first-ever dining awards for California’s Central Coast. The coveted Michelin stars proved elusive, but their “Plate” designation was given to 11 Santa Barbara County spots. One of them was First & Oak at the Mirabelle Inn in Solvang—making it the first and only Michelin-honored restaurant in the Santa Ynez Valley. Executive Chef JJ Guerrero heads the kitchen, where he first experimented with haute cuisine and hyper-local, creative dishes with previous Michelin-starred Chef Steven Snook for several years before taking over the kitchen in 2018. Guerrero loved the collaborative environment of that early kitchen, and has kept that freedom to create firmly entrenched. Every member of the kitchen staff is encouraged to create new dishes. Guerrero remembers his first dish that made it onto the menu when he was new: a melon and basil gazpacho (which was actually mentioned in the Michelin review). Today, everyone in the kitchen has a dish on the menu—some are legacies from Chef Snook—with Guerrero balancing the offerings so that guests can create their own unique tasting menu. For each dish, Guerrero makes sure every mouthful works. For the Braised Short Rib, yellow oyster mushrooms are the perfect complement to the beef—meaty and earthy—with the onion and sauce bringing an acid component, so that each bite feels complete. And Guerrero thinks the best local mushrooms are from Gold Coast Mushrooms. “These yellow oyster mushrooms are carefully grown in wood chips and controlled temperature, with lots of thought and love put into it. The quality and taste are amazing.” To re-create this dish, make your favorite braised short rib recipe the day before, cooking it low and slow for 3–4 hours, and letting it cool in its own liquid (to keep it moist) before pressing it in the fridge overnight (to make its compact shape). Then, combine water, melted butter, peppercorns, coriander, garlic and thyme in a saucepan and drop in some pearl onions. Heat the cold pan to a boil, then let it cool. Boil peeled russet potatoes in salted water until soft. Push potatoes through a strainer or food mill instead of mashing. Heat heavy cream with butter and salt, then whisk into potatoes. Hand-tear several oyster mushrooms (so they keep their shape), then heat cooking oil in a nonstick skillet to very hot. Just when the oil starts to smoke, drop mushrooms in and cook for 1–2 minutes. Toss to the other side for 1 minute and remove from heat. Salt the mushrooms now (this helps them not wilt) and toss with a small amount of vinaigrette: 3 parts oil, 1 part vinegar. Reheat the short rib and its sauce (Guerrero makes the sauce with a traditional mirepoix base plus bonito flakes) and place on plate. Squeeze mashed potatoes from a pastry bag onto plate. Top with mushrooms and pearl onions, garnish with fresh parsley. Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). CaliCoastWineCountry.com
72 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2019 | 73
BETTINA • TOY CRAZY • GEORGE • POPPY MARCHÉ • RORI’S ARTISANAL CREAMERY • ONE HOUR MARTINIZING • READ N’ POST • MALIA MILLS MONTECITO BARBERS • SPACE NK • HUDSON GRACE • MONTECITO NATURAL FOODS • PANINO • KENDALL CONRAD • MATE GALLERY • LITTLE ALEX’S PRESSED JUICERY • JAMES PERSE • VONS • UNION BANK • COCO CABANA
74 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2019
NOW OPEN! MERCI MONTECITO • CAFFE LUXXE montecitocountrymart.com