• SPRING ISSUE ISSUE 38 •37 SUMMER 2018 18
Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County
In Search of
Renewal and Rebuilding
Barbara County in this Issue A Love LetterSanta to Los Olivos From Grape Farm to GreatGuide Winemaking Takes a Journey L O YA L T O L O C A L L O YA L T O L O C A L
2 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
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SANTA BAR BAR A
WIL FERNANDE Z
C AROLE TOPALIAN
Departments 8 Food for Thought
26 Global Local Cuisine
by Krista Harris
Ethiopian—It’s All About the Grains
10 Vertical Tasting 13 In Season 14 Seasonal Recipes Roasted Eggplant Jam Zucchini Baba Ganoush Corn Ice Cream
20 Edible Garden
by Laura Booras
30 Edible Books Excerpt from Letters to a Young Farmer by Alice Waters
33 Santa Barbara County Farm Guide
Summer Sweet Corn
by Joan S. Bolton
72 Event Calendar
24 Drinkable Landscape Make Mine Melon for Summer by George Yatchisin
74 Eat Drink Local Guide 80 The Last Bite Summer’s Don’t-Miss Dish
page 18 4 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
STE VEN BROWN
by Liz Dodder
SANTA BAR BAR A
Features 42 In Search of Local Sea Urchin
by John Cox
52 Quintessential California Santa Barbara Wine Country Built on a Handshake by Sonja Magdevski
56 Salsa—Summer in a Sauce by Rosminah Brown
62 Where Once There Was Lawn Permaculture Garden at Santa Barbara City College by Hana-Lee Sedgwick
66 Inspiration from the Market Table by Pascale Beale
Recipes in This Issue Dips and Spreads 60 Creamy Tomatillo Salsa 14 Roasted Eggplant Jam 61 Tomatillo Chipotle Salsa 16 Zucchini Baba Ganoush
Soups, Salads and Side Dishes 70 Green Tomato, Melon and Cucumber Soup 69 Grilled Zucchini and Tarragon Roasted Chicken Salad 27 Kale and Ethiopian Farro Wat 68 Stuffed Squash Blossoms 69 Roasted Beet and Snap Pea Salad with Burrata
Desserts 18 Corn Ice Cream ABOUT THE COVER
Deviled Eggs with Uni served on the urchin spines by Chef John Cox of Bear and Star. Photo by Fran Collin.
6 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Beverages 25 Melon Meets Its Maker Cocktail
STE VEN BROWN
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STE VEN BROWN
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Each summer as the foggy mornings give way to full days of sunshine, I look forward to seeing what is growing in my garden. As long as I can remember, the idea of eating things right out of the garden has held a fascination for me. There were orange trees in the backyard of the first house I remember—one was sweet and the other was very sour. In another house, there was Natal plum fruit in the backyard that I used to forage and wild fennel that grew in the alley that I sometimes nibbled on. And just about every house I’ve lived in ever since has had some sort of fruit tree or edible plants growing in its garden. Each quarter I read Joan Bolton’s Edible Garden column (this issue she talks about growing corn) and, more often than not, I end up growing what she suggests or utilizing her tips in my own garden. This year I have three raised beds growing a combination of tomatoes, bush beans, peppers, some greens and herbs. Maybe I’ll try corn next year. I’m the type of lazy gardener who doesn’t mind if the cilantro goes to seed or some mint keeps reappearing in one of the beds. I also love to grow those tiny yellow tomatoes that can be plucked off the plant and devoured right there in the warm sunshine. It’s really the easiest way to harvest them. That’s the beauty of really fresh fruits and vegetables: They can be enjoyed with the simplest of preparation. Whatever summer produce you don’t grow in your garden, you can usually find at one of our farmers markets or a local farm stand. In this issue we’ve included our Farm Guide, which has a listing of all the farms you can visit in Santa Barbara County. I think people sometimes forget how much of an agricultural producer Santa Barbara County is. The Farm Guide is our way of honoring that aspect of our culture and the many people who support us all with the food they grow. This summer I encourage you to visit a farm, farm stand or farmers market and use your buying power to show support for our farmers and other food producers. As you often read in the pages of this magazine, supporting local food contributes to our local economy and brings us all a better quality of life.
Krista Harris, Editor and Co-Publisher
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SANTA BAR BAR A Member of Edible Communities
Edible Communities James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)
Steven Brown & Krista Harris EDITOR
Krista Harris RECIPE EDITOR
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Contributors Pascale Beale Joan S. Bolton Laura Booras Rosminah Brown Fran Collin John Cox Liz Dodder Wil Fernandez Jennifer LeMay Sonja Magdevski Amy Robb Hana-Lee Sedgwick Carole Topalian Alice Waters George Yatchisin Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
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McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams Dairy-Free Frozen Desserts
Summer days and nights scream for ice cream. But what if you or your friends can’t have dairy? Often dairy-free ice creams are made with soy or nuts, which are also possible allergens. McConnell’s has been known for their delicious dairy ice creams, so we were happily surprised to learn that they have perfected a dairy-free alternative using yellow pea protein. We tasted four of their new flavors that satisfied our craving and hit the spot on a hot day.
Toasted Coconut Almond Chip The coconut shines through, but there is a nice balance of all the flavors in this refreshing blend of almonds, chocolate chips and, of course, toasted coconut. We couldn’t help thinking it would make a wonderful ice cream sandwich with a couple of freshly baked oatmeal cookies. It also would be refreshing on a hot day with a chilled glass of coconut water.
Eureka Lemon & Marionberries The flavors really pop on this one. The bright tanginess of the lemon and the plentiful swirls of marionberry make this an outstanding dessert. The creamy texture is perfect, and it’s hard to believe it’s nondairy. You might want this as a refreshing finale after a summer barbecue. Although it’s delicious by itself, you could top it with any manner of berries or serve it with a shortbread cookie. A tiny chilled glass of limoncello wouldn’t hurt either.
Turkish Coffee Coffee lovers will be very happy with this flavor. It has a deep, rich flavor and the texture is sublime. A great afternoon pick-me-up, but those who are sensitive to caffeine might not want to have too much of it after 3pm. And those who dare will pour a shot of espresso over it for an affogato supreme.
Dark Chocolate Chip This is a chocolate lover’s ice cream, with more intense chocolate flavor than most dairy ice creams. The chocolate chips are more like flakes that are just the right size—adding that extra bit of chocolate to this decadent treat. Great for dessert after a hearty or spicy dinner. Or just pair with a bad day and all will be better.
STE VEN BROWN
Ice cream tastes better when not served too cold. But you don’t want to end up with a melted puddle. So, take the container out of the freezer and let it soften a little before scooping, but put your bowls in the freezer to get them nice and chilled. You can even serve with chilled spoons, too!
10 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
McConnell’s Dairy-Free Frozen Desserts are available at McConnell’s scoop shop locations, grocery stores and for shipping nationwide for $12/pint. In Santa Barbara visit 728 State St. or go to McConnells.com for more locations.
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in Season this summer Summer Produce Apricots Artichokes Asparagus Avocados Basil Beans, green Blackberries Blueberries Cabbage Cantaloupe Celery Cherries Chiles Chives Cilantro Collards Corn Cucumber Dill Eggplant Figs Grapefruit Grapes Lavender Limes Melons Mint Mulberries Mustard greens Nectarines Onions, green bunching Peaches Peppers Plums/Pluots Raspberries Squash, summer Strawberries Tomatillo Tomatoes Turnips Watermelon
Almonds, almond butter (harvested Aug/Sept)
Apples Arugula Beans, dried Beets Bok choy Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Chard Dandelion Dates
Edible flowers Garlic
(Bay leaf, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)
Kale Leeks Lemons Lettuce Mushrooms Onions, bulb
Oranges Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Potatoes Radish Raisins
Summer Seafood Halibut Rock fish Salmon, King Sardines Shark Spot prawns Swordfish Tuna, albacore White seabass Yellowtail
Year-Round Seafood Abalone (farmed) Black cod Clams Oysters Rock crab Sanddabs Urchin
Other Year-Round Eggs Coffee (limited availability) Dairy
(Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)
Fresh flowers Honey Olives, olive oil Meat
(Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)
Potted plants/herbs Preserves Wheat
(Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta and baked goods produced from wheat grown locally)
Spinach Sprouts Squash, winter
Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 13
Roasted Eggplant Jam A delicious spread to make use of the eggplant in your garden or in the markets.
1 medium eggplant, diced into ½-inch cubes 1
⁄ 2 large red onion, minced
5 cloves garlic, finely minced or pressed 1
⁄ 4 cup olive oil
⁄ 4 cup tomato paste
⁄ 4 cup loose-packed parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 2 heaping tablespoons capers 1 teaspoon salt
Preheat oven to 450° and line a baking pan with aluminum foil. Combine eggplant, red onion and garlic in a bowl and toss with olive oil and tomato paste until vegetables are well coated. Spread evenly on baking pan and roast for 25 minutes. Remove baking pan from oven, return the roasted eggplant mixture to the mixing bowl. Add chopped parsley, red wine vinegar, capers and salt. Blend well with a wooden spoon, breaking up softened eggplant. Final jam should be thick, but easily spreadable. Serve with tahini or cashew butter on rustic artisan bread.
Egg Salad Sandwich
— Amy Robb
What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste
Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped onion • A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil or tarragon • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash of white wine vinegar Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) Additional pickled vegetables (optional) Lettuce
Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional)
Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix until incorporated but with a still chunky texture. Taste and add 14 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER SUMMER 2018 2018 more seasoning or additions if needed.
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EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 15
Zucchini Baba Ganoush Makes 4 servings 5 large zucchini, about 2½ pounds 1 clove garlic, crushed 1
⁄ 2 teaspoon salt
⁄ 3 cup whole plain yogurt
2 tablespoons soft goat cheese 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds (or pine nuts) Pinch of smoked paprika or red chile flakes 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1
⁄ 2 teaspoon of za’atar, or to taste
Preheat the broiler. Place the zucchini on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. If you are using a very large zucchini, slice it lengthwise into several pieces, cutting away the seedy center, and broil skin side up for about 45 minutes. Turn once or twice during the cooking, until the skin crisps and browns nicely. Alternatively, this can be done on the grill. Or in a hot smoker, if you have one. Remove from the oven and, once cool enough to handle, peel off the zucchini skin, discard it and put the flesh in a colander to drain; or scoop the flesh out with a spoon and drain. Give it a light squeeze to get some extra liquid out. Put the drained zucchini in a mixing bowl, add the garlic and salt to taste and mash everything together with a fork. It can be used warm or at room temperature.
To serve, put the zucchini mixture into a wide serving bowl. Spoon the warm yogurt sauce over the top, then drizzle with the nut and chile spice mixture. Sprinkle with the za’atar and serve at once alongside bread or crackers. —Rosminah Brown
Zucchini There is no vegetable more associated with summer surplus than the zucchini. At some point, it gets out of control—producing boat-sized zucchini when you’re not looking. This is the fruit (yes, it’s actually a fruit!) that’s constantly foisted onto friends and neighbors. No matter how much slicing, dicing, grilling, spiralizing you do, there is always more zucchini waiting to be dealt with. 16 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER SUMMER2018 2018
This recipe uses the flesh of the zucchini and is infused with smoke from being charred whole under the broiler or on the grill. It has a greater depth of flavor than its usual bland self and can be used instead of eggplant in a traditional baba ganoush. What I love about this recipe is it uses several pounds to serve just four people as a starter. It is inspired by Yotam Ottolenghi from his cookbook Plenty More. I’ve simplified the original recipe’s toppings and called for ingredients you’re more likely to have on hand.
ROSMINAH BROWN ROSMINAH BROWN
Warm the yogurt gently in a small saucepan, stirring in the goat cheese until just melted through. In a skillet on medium, heat the olive oil and pumpkin seeds until the seeds are golden, set aside in a bowl and add the pinch of smoked paprika or chile flakes.
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Corn Ice Cream This is a simple, egg-free ice cream made with milk and cream. Serve by itself or with fresh fruit and/or drizzled with a salted caramel sauce. Makes 4 servings 2 ears of corn 1
⁄ 2 cup milk
⁄ 2 cup honey
⁄ 4 teaspoon sea salt
21 ⁄ 2 cups heavy cream 1 tablespoon bourbon (optional)
Cut the kernels off of the cobs and add them along with any juices to the milk in a small saucepan. Heat on medium heat until it starts to simmer just along the edges. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Add the honey, salt and cream and stir until the honey is dissolved. Add the bourbon if you like. Chill overnight or for at least several hours.
firmer consistency, place in an airtight container and freeze for 4 hours or overnight.
Egg Salad Sandwich What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste
Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped onion • A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil or tarragon • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash of white wine vinegar Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional) Additional pickled vegetables (optional) Lettuce Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix until incorporated but with 18 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018a still chunky texture. Taste and add more seasoning or additions if needed.
— Krista Harris
STE VEN BROWN
Then freeze according to the instructions on your ice cream maker. It will be very soft if served immediately. If you want a
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 19
Summer Sweet Corn
C AROLE TOPALIAN
by Joan S. Bolton
Fresh corn on the cob.
he sugary, succulent blast of flavor that comes from biting into fresh-picked, lightly steamed, summer sweet corn is like no other. Indeed, fresh corn on the cob is a quintessential highlight of the season. Out in the garden, before your corn even reaches the table, the visuals of tall, rustling stalks, on their way to producing cobs of deliciousness, aren’t too shabby, either. Many folks already have their corn up and growing, and fresh ears have beckoned from farmers markets and roadside stands for a month or two now. But if you move quickly, there’s still time to plant for a fall harvest.
20 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Getting Started Summer sweet corn requires a block of space. Granted, we’re not talking about the acreage consumed by unending rows of cornfields marching across Iowa, Illinois, Nebraska and parts of California. However, a long, single row won’t do. The ears are wind pollinated, so the stalks should stand shoulder to shoulder in as many directions as possible. At a minimum, plan for a five- by five-foot block or a fourby eight-foot raised bed. Also, while many summer vegetables require six to eight hours of direct daily sunlight, corn prefers 10 hours or more. Heat, fertile soil and ample moisture are essential, too.
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C AROLE TOPALIAN
Up and Growing
Female flowers will swell, then produce silks atop their husks.
Whether you garden in heavy clay or sandy soil, dig down eight to 12 inches, break up any clumps, then mix in homemade compost, well-aged manure or bags of medium-textured organic amendment, along with a few handfuls of kelp meal to supply trace minerals. Or go up, rather than down, by building a raised bed containing at least eight to 12 inches of loose, fertile soil. Planting from kernels, rather than seedlings, is more economical and effective, as a seed packet costs only a few dollars, yet contains 50 to 75 kernels, and the roots of transplants might be tangled or overgrown by the time you set them in the garden. Given the need to sprint to the finish, choose a short-season or early-season variety that’s ready for harvest in 65 to 70 days, rather than 85 days or longer. Sow the kernels on traditional long mounds or straight into the ground. I’ve tried both methods with equal success. Space the kernels four to six inches apart, in rows two to three feet apart. Bury the kernels half an inch to an inch. By alternating the kernels in a diamond pattern, I’ve managed to squeeze three rows into a four- by eight-foot bed, but three rows into a five-foot square block is better. Water daily until the corn sprouts, which should take a week to 10 days. For mounds, flood the furrows between the rows; on flat ground, run inline drip irrigation tubing or soaker hose along each row. Once the stalks are two inches tall, back off watering to once or twice a week. Also thin the plants to nine to 12 inches apart. Any closer and you’ll end up with scrawny stalks and punky ears. 22 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Corn offers plenty of interaction. The plants are heavy feeders, gobbling up nutrients in their haste to grow five to six feet tall, produce a couple of tasty ears and complete their life cycles in just a few months. Nitrogen is key to that fast, leafy growth. When the stalks reach a foot tall, side-dress the rows with alfalfa meal, blood meal, chicken manure, compost, fish emulsion or other high-nitrogen organic fertilizer. Watch for yellowing leaves. If you’re watering adequately, the discoloration may indicate insufficient nitrogen. You might side-dress another time or two, but stop when the tassels form, which is usually about three weeks before harvest. For an early-season, 70-day variety, the stop-time is about 50 days after germination. Each stalk bears just one tassel, a male flower, on top. At several leaf joints along the stalk, ears or female flowers will swell, then produce silks atop their husks. Wind and gravity help the pollen from the tassels drop onto the silks. In vast commercial cornfields, broad pollination occurs, the ears develop full kernels inside the husks and tasty cobs of corn are the result. Years ago, I learned that one of the best ways to ensure adequate pollination within just a few rows of corn is to whack the stalks every morning for a week after the tassels appear, to make the pollen fly. I’ve beaten on my corn with a broom ever since with excellent results. Conversely, if you don’t disperse the pollen, you’ll end up with a lot of silk and few kernels on any cobs. Pollination is also the time to combat corn earworms, a common pest that delights in deforming your crop. Pale tan moths lay white eggs on the silks or the undersides of the leaves. The hatchlings are what worm their way into the husks, then feast inside. To discourage the incursion, squirt a few drops of mineral oil onto emerging silks. Apply the oil every three days until the silks shrivel and turn brown. Also, do not grow more than one variety of corn side by side, as cross-pollination can produce starchy, tasteless ears. In addition, up the water as your stalks grow. By the time tassels form, you may be watering every other day until harvest.
Harvest Corn is ripe when the kernels have plumped up, filled out and pop with creamy juice when pierced. You can peel back the husks to check. But don’t keep messing with the same ear. At a certain point, a husk won’t tighten, offering an inviting portal to pests instead. Harvest your corn moments before dinner. Even with newer varieties bred to maintain a longer shelf life, don’t give the ears time to start converting their sugary goodness to starch. Simply twist off the ear, immediately steam or barbecue and enjoy. Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, have filled their four-acre property in western Goleta with natives and other colorful, water-conserving plants. They also maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com
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EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 23
Make Mine Melon for Summer by George Yatchisin
ow about we get 130 botanicals into your cocktail glass? Even better, let’s drop a melon in, too, like a refreshing cannonball into a backyard pool. This issue’s cocktail, the Melon Meets Its Maker, has its evolution in trying to figure out how to replicate a famous dish—prosciutto e melone —in a drink. Even non-vegetarians would have to imagine that getting ham, however thinly sliced, into a drink might be not just difficult but, well, unpleasant. But a liquor like bourbon has many of prosciutto’s key notes—some sweetness, some salt, plenty of depth. And then the rest of the drink does its best to extend all those gorgeous flavors that made prosciutto e melone a first-course classic. For what says summer more than a ripe cantaloupe? Its very color is the orange sun of the best days. While you might not grow your own, they are easy to find at the farmers market, so the trick is to learn how to shop for the best. Your melon is ripe is if smells like cantaloupe — it’s that simple (the spot where the stem connected should be most pungent). Sure, you can give it a squeeze, but that wonderfully rough rind usually doesn’t give much unless the melon is over-ripe, so don’t expect that to be a great help. Trust your nose. Note in the procedure for the cocktail, turning the fruit into “juice” is a teensy bit complicated and easily messy. So be 24 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
patient and set up an area where you can splash with impunity. Feel free, if you love your kitchen electronics, to drop a bunch of chopped cantaloupe into a blender and watch as it totally liquefies it. But a bit of texture does wonders for the feel of the cocktail when you drink it. So I heartily recommend the muddler method below, which really isn’t that hard. Bourbon is the cocktail’s base because it’s summer and you should be enjoying corn. (You do know that bourbon’s mash bill has to be at least 51% corn, yes? Maker’s Mark, for instance is made from 70% corn.) Bourbon also has to be produced in the U.S., so it’s a perfect Fourth of July sipper. For no doubt Thomas Jefferson considered penning a line about “life, liberty and the pursuit of distilling.” While it’s not the perfect sub for the sophisticated hamminess of prosciutto, its barrel aging gives this drink toasted notes you might find in cured pork. Somehow in the cocktail the whiskey and the melon keep shifting from foreground to background, giving the drink intriguing depth and character. And don’t ignore the ingredients added in smaller doses. Chartreuse, the centuries-old product of Carthusian monks in the French Alps, is a botanical bomb of flavor, like a vermouth on steroids. There’s a green and a yellow, the former stronger, the latter easier to play with, especially with brown liquors. Hence
Melon Meets Its Maker Makes 2 cocktails 3 ounces juice pressed from fresh cantaloupe (see method below) 5 ounces bourbon (Maker’s Mark suggested)
A Trip to Italy , without the Jet Lag…
1 ounce yellow chartreuse 6 dashes orange bitters 2 pinches smoked salt 2 (3-inch) sprigs rosemary (for garnish)
How to get the cantaloupe juice: Cut approximately a cup worth of cantaloupe fruit off the rind and chop in ½-inch cubes. With a muddler smash the cantaloupe to liquefy it. Over a jigger strain the melon liquid through a wire mesh and continue to muddle, expressing more juice until you get to the required amount. Add all the ingredients except the rosemary to a shaker full of ice. (Feel free to add a bit more orange bitters if citrus zing makes you sing, or a bit more salt if your blood pressure and taste allow you to do so.) Shake vigorously. Strain into 2 double Old-Fashioned glasses ¾ filled with crushed ice. Add a rosemary sprig to each and give it a stir before serving.
its use here, helping bridge the fruit and the whiskey and then taking them on a magic saffron, honey, every-herb-in-the garden trip. It’s not cheap, but you tend to use it sparingly, and you will keep finding excuses to get it into drinks. (Look up the recipe for a Greenpoint, a delightful Manhattan variation. You’re welcome). The orange bitters are a very controlled way to get just a hint of citrus in. A blast of juice or even a decorative peel of lemon tends to overpower the drink, but a few dashes of bitter gives you just the hint of lift you need. The same is true for the salt, as you make an obvious move to ape prosciutto’s lusciousness. We can’t help but use smoked salt for pretty much everything in our house, so we might not be objective. But here it especially adds the right character. The rosemary sprig garnish doesn’t just look pretty, either. It functions as a handy stirrer, when you want to give the drink a quick whirl, which is easy to want to do with all the crushed ice. (Very refreshing, crushed ice on a summer day. It makes me wonder why it’s most associated with the Mint Julep, which at least in our parts tends to be drunk in brisk May.) Of course, it’s also a wonderful aromatic, inviting your nose into the drink, too. Add it all up and you couldn’t have a more welcoming aperitif, waiting to be paired with a charcuterie or cheese plate and go mano-a-mano. It will echo and expand on those flavors in ways that will make any summer afternoon outdoors all the more delightfully languorous. George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.
Delighting Customers Since 2007 2014 Certificate of Excellence Winner from Trip Advisor Offering Gluten-Free Pasta Weekdays: Lunch 11am – 3pm; Dinner 5–9pm Weekends: Lunch 12– 3pm; Dinner 5– 9:30pm Closed Tuesday 666 Linden Ave., Downtown Carpinteria 805 684-0720 • Giannfrancos.com Follow us on Facebook at Giannfranco’s Trattoria
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 25
GLOBAL LOCAL CUISINE
Injera is the base for an Ethiopian meal.
Ethiopian—It’s All About the Grains by Laura Booras PHOTOGRAPHY BY WIL FERNANDEZ
am wholly and completely devoted to my favorite hobby— cooking. And that means I’m surrounded by recipes, ideas, photos and cookbooks all the time. I love this, but sometimes I get the feeling that I’ve seen and tasted so many things that there isn’t really much that’s new out there. I was feeling that way the first time I had Ethiopian food. It was a lovely Sunday afternoon about five years ago, and a friend had invited me to Petit Valentien in Santa Barbara. Though the restaurant is French, they serve Ethiopian food on weekends, and we were game to try something new. Neither of us had any idea what the food would be like; we ordered everything they offered that day. We dined on lentils and lamb chops with a spicy rub, numerous vegetables and a crisp little romaine salad. Yet the star of the show, which provided a moment of epiphany, was this new and exciting thing called injera. 26 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
If you haven’t heard of it, injera is a fermented pancake-like bread made of teff flour. It has an almost sour taste and a soft texture, and it is the base for any Ethiopian meal. Instead of utensils, Ethiopians tear off a piece of the spongy bread and grab a mouthful of whatever delicacy they desire. It soaks up the sauces and provides a delicious counter flavor to the cuisine itself. It’s a revelation and fairly easy to make yourself at home. Over the years, I have learned more and more about this very grain-based cuisine, and this curiosity inevitably led me to the ancient grain specialist of the Central Coast, Larry Kandarian. Larry grows ancient grains and seeds on his organic farm in Los Osos and sells his wares at farmers markets from San Luis Obispo to Los Angeles. His mission is to change the way people eat, encouraging them to take advantage of the health benefits offered by the grains to which he devotes his
Kale and Ethiopian Farro Wat Makes 6 servings, as part of a full Ethiopian meal 1
⁄ 2 cup Kandarian Ethiopian Farro
31 ⁄ 2 cups water 1
⁄ 4 cup chopped onion
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 1 bunch fresh kale 2 tablespoons berbere 11 ⁄ 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground ginger 2 cloves garlic, minced 11 ⁄ 2 teaspoons mekelesha
To cook the faro, add farro to 3 cups of water, bring to a boil. Cook about 20 minutes or until soft and chewy. Drain and set aside. In a skillet, heat the oil and add the onion. Cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Remove the tough stems from the kale and chop finely; add to the onion along with ½ cup of water. Cook until soft and water is completely boiled away, about 10 minutes. Add berbere, cumin, salt, ginger and garlic. If the mixture is too dry, add another ½ cup of water. Cook until water is completely gone and kale is very soft. Add the farro and the mekelesha powder, and stir. Warm through over low heat and season with more salt if needed.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 27
life. I started buying my teff flour, farro and many other new products from Larry a few years ago; this article gave me an excuse to reach out to the man himself. I visited Larry’s farm to learn more about his practices, especially regarding the teff flour and Ethiopian farro I used in the recipes here. He showed me where the grains are separated from the husks using simple yet effective technology, and then he took me on a walking tour of his beautiful farm. To say I was completely inspired by him would be an understatement. I was utterly awed by this man’s passion, dedication and intricate knowledge of the history of the grains and grasses on his property. Though he is an excellent storyteller, Larry doesn’t just talk the talk; he believes deeply in simple, healthful and local food. An Ethiopian meal has a few essential elements: injera, a vegetable dish, a dish using lentils or farro, a chopped romaine salad with a simple dressing and a meat dish. I have included a Lamb Wat as well as a Kale and Farro Wat. You can make one or both. Wat dishes are cooked like stews and can include many different types of meat or vegetables. The menu is completely vegan if you leave out the Lamb Wat. The dishes are simple to prepare and very filling—I love to mix colors and textures. Though all of the ingredients are available locally, a few of the spices might take a little searching: berbere, mekelesha and mitmita. You can find these at any Ethiopian market or online. They add special and unusual flavors to your Ethiopian meal, so be sure to include them. If you had asked me 10 years ago if I’d be eating Ethiopian food on a regular basis at home, I would have thought you were crazy. However, since tasting it, I can’t get enough of the smoky, spicy, sour flavor combinations that define the cuisine. Laura Booras is the general manager at Riverbench Vineyard & Winery in the Santa Maria Valley. She lives on the vineyard, where she regularly hosts food writers, celebrity chefs and wine critics for unique meals prepared with locally sourced ingredients.
Laura Booras visits grain specialist Larry Kandarian.
28 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Ethiopian Cuisine Menu
• Teff Injera • Ethiopian Cabbage (Tikkil Gomen) • Lentils with Turmeric and Garlic • Romaine with Lemon Vinaigrette • Kale and Ethiopian Farro Wat • Lamb Wat WINE NOTES While you could pair a bright, fruity rosé wine with any of these dishes, Ethiopian food tends to really shine when paired with beer. Here are a few local suggestions that will round out your meal. BEER NOTES Telegraph Goodland Orange Pale Ale—Fermentation with whole puréed oranges makes this light-bodied beer crisp and refreshing. TelegraphBrewing.com Santa Maria Brewing Company New World American Wheat—Light and dry, this California-style wheat beer has light hops on the finish that go well with the slightly sour injera. SantaMariaBrewingCo.com Santa Barbara Brewing Company Santa Barbara Blonde— A true pilsner with spicy and floral notes. SBBrewCo.com NOTE: Petit Valentien serves Ethiopian lunch on Sat–Sun 11am–2:30pm. PetitValentien.com For recipes mentioned in this article, visit
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Letters to a Young Farmer by Alice Waters
Alice Waters is one of three dozen contributors to the anthology Letters to a Young Farmer. From writers Barbara Kingsolver and Michael Pollan to chef Dan Barber and farmer Mas Masumoto, this collection is valuable to all of us who are interested in the connections between agriculture and food.
“...it is taste that will truly wake people up and bring them back to their senses and back to the land.” — Alice Waters
Dear young farmer, I want to start by saying “thank you.” Thank you for choosing to be a farmer and for choosing to take care of the planet. Thank you for dedicating yourself to feeding us all. And thank you, too, for being the inspiration for my restaurant—indeed, for my life’s work. You are my partner in change. Forty-four years ago, when I first opened Chez Panisse, I could never have imagined that my restaurant would be anything more than a small neighborhood place for my friends to gather and talk politics. Fifteen years into the life of the restaurant, we began to feel the need to connect more deeply with a farmer and were looking for a farm of our own. We were incredibly fortunate that Bob Cannard, a gifted farmer, wanted to work with us alone. By committing to buying everything that he grew, we were able to guarantee his livelihood. In turn, he taught us to treasure the land; from him we learned about real nourishment, about the rhythms not just of the seasons but of the years. We became extensions of each other—what Carlo Petrini, founder of the Slow Food movement, calls “coproducers.” Petrini also believes that farmers are the “intellectuals of the land.” They have the practical experience and rarefied knowledge to choose just the right seeds for a particular place, to plant them in the most advantageous way, and then to tend the plants and bring them to their perfect moment of ripeness. This is what taste is all about. And it is taste fundamentally that makes my work irresistible and your work vital. I always say that farming is at least 85 percent of cooking, because it is taste that will truly wake people up and bring them back to their senses and back to the land. Alice Waters is a chef, food activist and the founder and owner of Chez Panisse Restaurant in Berkeley, California. In 1995 she founded the Edible Schoolyard Project. She went on to conceive and help create the Yale Sustainable Food Project at Yale University and the Rome Sustainable Food Project at the American Academy in Rome. In 2015 she was awarded the National Humanities Medal by President Barack Obama.
Excerpt from Letters to a Young Farmer used with permission from Princeton Architectural Press © 2017.
30 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
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Please join us for a Gathering on historic Rancho San Julian. - Register for events at theranchtable.com Recipes, Stories, and Traditions from the Heart of California theranchtable.com - ranchosanjulian.com
From Our Family Farm to You Grown with Integrity and Appreciation for the Land
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CHICKEN, EGGS, LAMB, PORK, â€™ GOAT, RABBIT FRUIT PIES, QUICHES, JAMS AND PRESERVES SEE US AT THE FARMER S MARKET! 805-688-0597 JIMENEZFAMILYFARM.COM
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EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 33
VISIT A SANTA BARBARA COUNTY FARM — where
THE FARM 411
strawberries, broccoli and wine grapes abound—and meet the hardworking hands that cultivate our local crops. While much of the public may never glimpse the behind-the-curtain aspects of this booming industry, there are upwards of 1,597 farms (with approximately 163 growers registered organic in 2015) and 701,039 acres of land in farms.
Using our guide, make plans to visit a farm on your own or join a group—visit Meetup.com/SantaBarbara-Food-and-Farm-Adventures for suggestions. Get ready for a fun, energizing, relaxing day at the farm. And if you have a chance to taste the farm’s produce, savor it!
There are 25,370 agriculture-related jobs in Santa Barbara County, and agriculture is the number one contributor to the county’s economy. In other words, farming is a crucial business in our county, and our growers have lovingly provided us with fresh produce for generations.
Be casual: Wear comfortable footwear and clothes
HAVE YOU EVER WONDERED WHAT IT WOULD BE LIKE TO LIVE AND WORK ON A FARM? Santa Barbara County is home to groves, ranches, vineyards, gardens—and our friendly farmers welcome you to visit and learn about what they do and why. Visiting a farm is a unique opportunity to see first hand how food is produced, right from the very beginning.
34 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Here are some hints on making the most of your visit.
that can stand up to a bit of work and dirt. You may find yourself walking on dirt roads and uneven terrain. And of course remember to wear a hat and sunscreen. Be curious: There’s lots to learn on a farm, and a tour offers the perfect chance to have your questions answered. So don’t be shy—ask away! Be safe: Seeing live animals and impressive farm machinery up close can be thrilling, but always be very careful and listen to your tour guide for instructions. Be informed: Call ahead to confirm tour availability and to get additional information on what to wear, bring and expect.
There’s nothing like fresh fruit and vegetables at their seasonal best. There’s something so good about eating food when it’s just been picked. It tastes better, it’s a better value and it’s a better deal for the planet.
Here’s just a taste of what we’ve got growing on ....
January – March
April – June
July – September
October – December
Arugula Asparagus Avocado Beets Bok Choy Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Celeriac (Celery Root) Cherimoya Citrus Collards Cucumbers Endive English Peas Escarole Fava Beans Fennel Green Onions Kale Kiwi Kohlrabi Leeks Lettuce Mushrooms Mustard Parsley Parsnips Radishes Radicchio Snap or Snow Peas Spinach Strawberries Swiss Chard Sweet Onions Turnips
Apricots Artichokes Arugula Asparagus Avocado Bananas Berries Blueberries Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Celery Cherries Citrus Cucumbers English Peas Fava Beans Herbs Kale Lettuce Loquats Mulberries Mushrooms Nectarines Nettles Green Onions Oranges Papaya Peas Potatoes Radishes Rapini Snap or Snow Peas Squash Strawberries Strawberry Guava Sweet Corn Swiss Chard Turnips
Apples Avocado Beans Beets Berries Broccoli Cactus Fruit Carrots Citrus Collards Cucumbers Eggplant Endive Escarole Figs Garlic Green Beans Herbs Kale Grapes Lettuce Melons Mulberries Nectarines Onions Okra Peaches Pears Peppers Plums Potatoes Radishes Squash Swiss Chard Sweet Corn Sweet Potatoes Tomatillos Tomatoes Watermelon
Apples Arugula Avocado Beans Beets Berries Bok Choy Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Cherimoya Citrus Collards Cucumbers Endive Escarole Green Onions Guava Kale Kohlrabi Lettuce Melons Mustard Navels Nuts (harvest) Onions Papaya Peppers Radishes Spinach Squash Sunchokes Swiss Chard Sweet Corn Sweet Potatoes Tomatoes Turnips
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 35
to th e
1 Blosser Urban
915 S. Blosser Rd., Santa Maria 805 878-1744 BlosserUrbanGarden.com Fruits, Veggies
5 The Center for Urban
Agriculture at Fairview Gardens
5103 Carpinteria Ave., Carpinteria 805 220-3178 FarmCartOrganics.com Fruits, Veggies, Eggs
598 N. Fairview Ave., Goleta 805 967-7369 FairviewGardens.org Fruits, Veggies, Eggs
11 Finley Farms
2 Bragg Farm
199 Winchester Canyon Rd., Goleta 805 968-1020 Bragg.com Apples
10 The Farm Cart
1702 N. Refugio Rd., Santa Ynez 805 686-0209 Fruits, Veggies
6 Clairmont Farms Lavender
2480 Roblar Ave., Los Olivos 805 688-7505 ClairmontFarms.com Herbs
12 Folded Hills Farmstead
2323 Old Coast Hwy., Gaviota 805 689-1450 FoldedHills.com Fruits, Veggies
3 Buttonwood Farm
Winery & Vineyard
1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang 805 688-3032 ButtonwoodWinery.com Fruits, Veggies
4 California Coast Naturals
12477 Calle Real, Santa Barbara 805 685-2076 CaCoastNaturals.com Olives, Olive Oil Farm Tours
7 Dare 2 Dream Farms
890 La Salle Canyon Rd., Lompoc 805 735-3233 Dare2DreamFarms.com Fruits, Veggies, Eggs
13 Forbidden Fruit Orchards
4001 Forbidden Fruit Ln., Lompoc 805 735-4648 ForbiddenFruitOrchards.com
714 S. Blosser Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-8000 DarensBerries.com Strawberries
Berries, Fruit, Honey, Tea
9 Dittmarâ€™s Greenhaven
2275 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang 805 264-7100 Apples
Mesa Harmony Garden 1740-A Cliff Dr., Santa Barbara MesaHarmonyGarden.org
Peace Community Garden 1000 W. Ocean Ave., Lompoc CityOfLompoc.com/PublicWorks/ UrbanForestry/
Pilgrim Terrace Community Garden
Pilgrim Terrace Dr. at Modoc Rd., Santa Barbara; SantaBarbaraCA.gov
Rancheria Community Garden
Rancheria St. near Montecito St., Santa Barbara; SantaBarbaraCA.gov 36 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
14 Global Gardens
2450 Alamo Pintado Rd., Los Olivos 800 307-0447 GlobalGardensOnline.com Olive Oil, Vinegars
15 Good Land Organics
1362 Farren Rd., Goleta 805 685-4189 GoodlandOrganics.com Fruits, Coffee
18 Morrell Nut and
1980 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang 805 688-8969 Berries, Nuts
19 OstrichLand USA
610 E. Hwy. 246, Buellton 805 686-9696 OstrichLandUSA.com Eggs
16 Growing Grounds Farm
820 W. Foster Rd., Santa Maria 805 934-2182 Facebook.com/ GGFSantaMaria/ Fruits, Veggies
17 Lane Farms
308 S. Walnut Ln., Santa Barbara 805 964-3773 LaneFarmsSB.com Fruits, Veggies
23 Santa Barbara Pistachio
3380 Hwy. 33, Ventucopa 661 766-2485 SantaBarbaraPistachios.com Nuts
24 Solvang Farmer’s Pumpkin
951–989 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang 805 331-1918 Facebook.com/ SolvangFarmerPumkinPatch/ Veggies
20 Rancho Olivos
2390 N. Refugio Rd., Santa Ynez 805 686-9653 RanchoOlivos.com Olive Oil
25 Something Good John
Givens Farm Stand
9499 Santa Rosa Rd., Buellton 805 451-8451 SomethingGoodOrganics.com Fruits, Veggies
21 Rancho San Julian
6000 San Julian Rd., Lompoc 805 729-3303 RSJBeef.com Fruits, Veggies, Meat
22 Santa Barbara
1980 US Hwy. 101, Gaviota 805 686-5718 SantaBarbaraBlueberries.com Berries, Fruits
26 Summerset Farm
& Dale’s Nursery
3450 Baseline Ave., Santa Ynez 805 245-0989 Fruits, Berries, Veggies
27 Sunrise Organic Farm
7250 Domingos Rd., Lompoc Facebook.com/SunriseOrganicFarm/ Fruits, Berries, Veggies
Santa Maria Community Garden City of Santa Maria Alice Trefts Park, 910 S. Oakwood Dr., Santa Maria CityofSantaMaria.org
St. Michael’s Community Garden 6586 Picasso Rd., Isla Vista SaintMikesUCSB.org
Please contact the farm directly to confirm hours of operation before arriving. Farm Stand Meet your local farmer and purchase fresh produce from where it’s grown.
909 N. La Cumbre Rd., Santa Barbara TrinityGardensSB.org
Yanonali Community Garden
E. Yanonali St. at Soledad St., Santa Barbara; SantaBarbaraCA.gov
Farm Tours (by appointment) Experience and learn about the farm.
U-Pick Get down and dirty and pick your own produce. CSA (Community-Supported Agriculture) Share in the bounty! Enjoy fresh produce throughout the farming season. EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 37
For some locals, a Saturday morning stroll through one of the area’s biggest farmers markets is a habitual start to every weekend. Arrive at the downtown Santa Barbara Farmers Market empty-handed at 8:30am and leave with armfuls of vegetables, fruit, herbs, eggs, meat, cheese, bread, flowers and plants from as many as 90 vendors. Head to the Tuesday Farmers Market on State Street and make an evening of it— meandering down the street for shopping, wine tasting, live music and dining. Our farmers markets are generally year round and rain or shine, but hours can vary from season to season, so check market websites or call for more information.
Carpinteria 1 Carpinteria
3 Lompoc Certified
800 block of Linden Ave. Thu 3–6pm SBFarmersMarket.org
2 Camino Real
At Storke & Hollister Sun 10am–2pm SBFarmersMarket.org
1100 & 1200 blocks of Coast Village Rd. Fri 8–11:15am SBFarmersMarket.org
Ocean and I St. Fri 2–6pm Facebook.com/ LompocCertified FarmersMarket
6 Downtown Santa 4 Central City
Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota St. Sat 8:30am–1pm SBFarmersMarket.org
Oak Knoll South Corner of Bradley Rd. and Clark Ave. Tue 10am–1pm Farmers Market Orcutt on Facebook
A great way to gain awareness of eating locally is to take an Eat Local Challenge. Each October, join Edible Santa Barbara as we take a pledge to eat locally for 30 days. Find out more at EdibleSantaBarbara.com
Barbara Farmers Market
7 Old Town
500 & 600 Blocks of State St. Tue 3–6:30pm (Daylight Savings Time) Tue 4–7:30pm (Standard Time) SBFarmersMarket.org 8 Saturday
Tour the Farmers Market
Join Chef Greg Murphy of Bouchon at the Tuesday afternoon Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market for an informative “Foodie Stroll” and dinner. Guests rendezvous with Chef at the market, select ingredients with Chef ’s assistance and return to Bouchon for dinner. Once back at Bouchon, they enjoy a three-course dinner paired with local wines. Limited to eight guests. Go to BouchonSantaBarbara.com or call 805 730-1160 for reservations. 38 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Santa Barbara Harbor Sat 6–11am CFSB.info/Sat
Santa Maria 9 Central City
Farmers Market— Town Center West Broadway & Main St. (in Mervyn’s parking lot) Wed noon–4pm 805 305-9829
10 Town Center East
Broadway & Main St. (outside Macy’s) Fri 9:30am–1:30pm 805 922-7931 10 Town Center West
Corner of Main St. & Broadway Fri 5:30–8:30pm Spring through September SantaMariaValley.com
solvang 11 Solvang Village
Copenhagen Dr. and First St. Wed 2:30–6pm (until 6:30pm in summer) SBFarmersMarket.org
vandenberg Village 12 Vandenberg Village
Certified Farmers Market Burton Mesa Blvd. Sun 10am–2pm VillageGoesGreen.org
Tastes Better Is Better for You Supports Families Builds Community
GUIDE DESIGN: MATTHEW FREEMAN, MAP: MADDIE GORDON
Is an Investment in the Future
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 39
January Santa Barbara Community Seed Swap
Lompoc Valley Flower Festival
Summer Solstice Parade & Festival
Eat Local Challenge
World of Pinot Noir
Taste of Solvang SolvangUSA.com
Wine Film Festival
July Santa Barbara County Fair at Santa Maria SantaMariaFairPark.com
Santa Barbara Vintners Spring Weekend SBVintnersWeekend.com
French Festival FrenchFestival.com
Santa Barbara Earth Day
Santa Barbaraâ€™s Greek Festival
Santa Barbara Fair & Expo EarlWarren.com/SantaBarbara-Fair-Expo
August Fork & Cork Classic LetsGetForked.com
May Fairview Farm to Table Dinner FairviewGardens.org
Los Olivos Jazz and Olive Festival JazzAndOliveFestival.com
Santa Barbara Jewish Festival JewishSantaBarbara.org
In the Vineyard & On the Farm LosOlivosCafe.com
Buttonwood All Farm Dinner ButtonwoodWinery.com
September Danish Days SolvangDanishDays.org
Goleta Lemon Festival
African Dinner on the Ranch
Empty Bowls Santa Maria FoodbankSBC.org/Event/SMEmptyBowls
Harbor & Seafood Festival HarborFestival.org
Real Men Cook ArtsOutreach.com/events/ real-men-cook
Santa Barbara Wine and Seafood Pairing SBMM.org
Santa Barbara Chowder Fest SantaBarbaraChowderFest.com
Santa Maria Beerfest SantaMariaValley.com
Solvang Stomp SolvangUSA.com
November Empty Bowls Santa Barbara EmptyBowlsSantaBarbara.com
December Edible SB Holiday Pop-up Shop EdibleSantaBarbara.com
The Santa Barbara County Farm Guide is made possible by the following sponsor: Santa Maria Valley is the perfect home base for Californiaâ€™s Central Coast, boasting 34 tasting rooms, six unique AVAs, 13 beaches and a growing selection of local breweries, all within a beautiful 30-minute drive. There is no need to venture out if you are looking for sand dunes, hiking trails, horseback riding, cycling and authentic Santa Maria-Style dining. Visit SantaMariaValley.com for events, trip planning and more.
SANTA BARBAR A 40 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Santa Barbara County has the highest child poverty rate in California! EdSource.org
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In Search of Local Sea Urchin by John Cox PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRAN COLLIN AND JOHN COX
s dusk settles over the Santa Barbara harbor, a convoy ocean export. Many fishermen were able to buy homes and of box trucks and pickups line up along the wooden make a comfortable living off of urchin exports alone. dock. Men pace back and forth, occasionally scanning Sadly, as with many fisheries around the world, supply and the horizon before staring back into the screens of their smart demand is cyclical, driven by influences far outside the local phones. Somewhere out of the distance the low drone of a diesel community. In the case of sea urchin, supply dwindled largely engine snaps the motley crew into action, pulling trucks into because of two separate El Niño events that reduced kelp beds positions and hoisting bins onto the dock. along the coast. During the same time period Japan started A diminutive fishing boat, stout looking toward Russia and Chile for At its height, urchin was California’s and weathered, glides to a stop more consistent urchin imports. along the pilings. The fisherman By 2001 the California catch single most valuable ocean export. grabs a dock line from the group had steadily declined to 8.8 million Many fishermen were able to buy above. A crowd of tourists has pounds and by 2016 dropped to just gathered, and they peer down at the homes and make a comfortable living 5.3 million pounds, a level not seen boat with growing interest. since the infancy of the fishery in off of urchin exports alone. the early 1970s. The current annual Within a few seconds the catch of the urchin fishery in Santa fisherman has thrown open the Barbara is around 3 million pounds, due in part to a recent hatch, revealing a hold overflowing with red urchin. As the hoist reduction of permits. on the dock begins to raise the first bag of urchin, the crowd points and murmurs, mesmerized by the giant bags bristling If you consider that there are roughly 90,000 people in with long undulating spines. The hoist positions the bag high Santa Barbara, there ought to be around 34 urchins per person, above the waiting truck and into the careful arms of a man who per year. Yet it seems difficult to find this delicacy in Santa guides it into position before pulling a drawstring and releasing Barbara itself. Unlike other shellfish like spiny lobster, which has the urchin into a blue plastic tote. been popular throughout much of California’s culinary history, This process repeats for about 15 minutes, bag after bag, sea urchin hasn’t always been embraced by the local community. until each truck is stacked to capacity. Papers are signed and the In the late 1960s, kelp harvesters began to notice that large trucks roll away into the night, leaving the crowd to wonder areas along the coast were becoming barren and unproductive. about these strange creatures and ponder their final destination. Upon closer investigation, they observed that these areas had been overtaken by colonies of voracious urchin that were Many locals speculate that these urchin, along with other consuming the kelp beds at an alarming rate. Since many local sea delicacies, are shipped away to foreign markets. After industries, from breweries to cosmetic companies and food all, following the near collapse of the Japanese urchin fishery in processors, rely on kelp-based alginates for their products, a the 1980s, export of urchin became a Santa Barbara gold rush. campaign was launched to eradicate the “pests.” Divers hauled With many local fishermen looking for work after the collapse up loads of urchin to be smashed with hammers or crushed by of the local abalone fishery, and the Japanese paying top dollar bulldozers. Boats carpeted entire areas of coast and reefs with for urchin, fishermen in Southern California cashed in over 27 quicklime to destroy the urchin populations. million pounds of urchin at the peak of the urchin fishery in 1990. At its height, urchin was California’s single most valuable
Opposite: A bag of spiny urchins.
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The truth is that over 90% of the local urchin catch goes to processors in Southern California for distribution throughout California and the United States.
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Chefs and food connoisseurs have long regarded urchin as a rare and revered delicacy, but the general public seems largely uninterested. For many, snacking on urchin has been a disappointing experience. It’s the texture, or the smell, or the taste that puts them off. So, what makes for a good urchin experience? Just like any other raw shellfish, it depends on the quality of production and the freshness of the product. In Santa Barbara, we have the opportunity to sample some of the best and the freshest— if you can get your hands on one. On a recent afternoon, having observed boats unload truckloads of urchin the previous evening, I decided to embark on an urchin tour of Santa Barbara. My first port of call: a freshly shucked urchin at the Santa Barbara Fish Market. It was a fine specimen, filled with vibrant gold uni, or gonads (sometimes incorrectly called roe). The spines still quivered and the shell retained its deep purple hue. Despite its apparent freshness, just moments after the urchin was shucked the uni began to weep a yellow liquid, a sure sign it was a female beginning to spawn (male urchins secrete a white liquid when spawning, and are said to be more sweet and desirable than the female). Within a couple of minutes, the uni had almost completely melted before my eyes, leaving a viscous soup that tasted of mildly bitter seawater. It was a fine urchin, and I was eager for more. I was foiled. Despite a carefully planned itinerary, stopping at the few restaurants known for including local urchin on their menus, I was told the same thing: They were waiting. Tonight, or tomorrow at the latest, the “urchin lady” would be out getting the urchin, and would return with the best and the freshest. By the end of the evening, I couldn’t find another urchin, but I tracked down the diver herself. Stephanie Mutz isn’t your typical urchin diver. She has carved out a unique niche that allows her to sell smaller amounts of premium urchin direct to restaurants and consumers. Unlike the more traditional method of unloading thousands of pounds to a single processor, Stephanie’s directmarket approach earns her a greater price per pound than commodity divers get and provides her customers the highestquality product. As she explained, “When you are selling tons of urchin at a lower price there is an underlying motivation to focus on quantity over quality.” The truth is that over 90% of the local urchin catch goes to processors in Southern California for distribution throughout California and the United States. These packing facilities meticulously separate the gonads from the shells and viscera by rinsing them repeatedly in saltwater baths. In order to stop the delicate urchin from breaking down once they are packed into wooden trays, processors often add alum to the rinse. Nitrates are also sometimes used in the rinse to maintain the bright color of the urchin. When used in tiny quantities these ingredients work wonders in preserving the visual standards of the urchin, but they can also sometimes add bitterness to the packaged Opposite: Urchin diver Stephanie Mutz.
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product or mask the age of the urchin. Many chefs and divers alike speculate that people who dislike urchin have very likely experienced a product that was either inferior in quality or simply not fresh. When Stephanie dives, she selects her urchin harvesting areas very carefully, to make sure the urchin are fully developed and up to her standards. As she puts it, “When the urchin don’t meet our expectations, we don’t sell them.” In order to be legally collected an urchin must be at least 3¼ inches, an indication that the urchin is old enough to have spawned. Due to recent El Niño events, Stephanie said, “these urchins have been growing very slowly and many will actually be older than four years by the time they reach harvest size.” El Niño events can be devastating. In 2015 the surface temperature in the channel hit 78°. “Guys were throwing up underwater because it was so hot. Seafood didn’t like it either, especially shallow species like urchin. We got hot water, hot weather, domoic acid, algae blooms and no rain! We got all of the crap from El Niño and none of the good stuff. The El Niño is like a forest fire underwater, it clears everything out. The waves and swells bombard the bottom and create a clean slate.” When asked what she thinks about the future of the urchin fishery, Stephanie was optimistic. “The urchin population has sustained itself because of regulations. It’s cool to see that they have made it through even given the adverse conditions.” Weather events aren’t the only challenge for urchin. Sea otters, an apex predator of the kelp forest ecosystem, were nearly driven to extinction by fur traders in the 1800s and have only been restored by careful conservation efforts. For the urchin, however, these adorable marine mammals are deadly. Otters specialize in their hunting habits. Some target whelks or abalone, and a few even learned to hunt birds. But those sea otters that specialize in hunting urchin have been known to eat up to 1,500 individual urchin in a single day! As far as the commercial fishery is concerned, this means that just six urchin-craving otters, each gobbling up roughly 550,000 pounds per year, could wipe out the entire local commercial catch. This doesn’t even take into account threats from other natural predators of the urchin like spiny lobster and sheepshead. Fortunately for Santa Barbara divers, the majority of otters live on a stretch of coast between Santa Cruz and Morro Bay. In the late 1980s a small population of otters was introduced to San Nicolas Island in order to protect the species from a localized collapse. Shortly after this re-introduction, fisherman, military and oil companies petitioned for a “no otter zone” from Point Conception to the Mexico border, but this has recently been overturned causing alarm throughout the commercial fishing community. Nobody is more aware of the local marine environment and urchin populations than the fishermen themselves. “I want this resource to last more than anyone out there! I depend on this as my livelihood,” explained Stephanie. Deckhand Brett Hall on F/V Risa Lynn unloading urchin at the harbor. Opposite: Stephanie Mutz diving for urchin.
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Above: The author, Chef John Cox, opening and cleaning urchin for his dish, pictured opposite, Deviled Eggs with Uni served on the urchin spines.
The California Sea Urchin Commission recently helped implement new regulations that would drop the number of statewide urchin permits from 300 to 150. In the previous lottery system, a new permit was issued when an existing permit was retired. The average age of a permit hold is 67 and over the last decade almost 100% of the commercial catch was performed by 150 divers. This means there is a huge liability with inactive permits. If market conditions changed, and more divers started 48 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
to use the available permits, it could be detrimental to the urchin supply. The new lottery requires that 11 permits need to be retired before one new permit is issued. This will continue to be the standard until the number of permits drops to 150. Aside from two local seafood stalwartsâ€”Santa Barbara Shellfish Co. at the end of Sterns Wharf and The Santa Barbara Fish Market (which isnâ€™t a restaurant, but will open and clean urchin for customers to take away on a bed of ice) at the
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harbor — it seems like few local restaurants regularly feature fresh urchin on their menus. It’s not surprising that chefs shy away from these primordial sea creatures. Can you blame them if the thought of cracking open an armored shell bristling with poisonous spines isn’t on the top of their priority list? Why should they bother working with fresh urchin when they could simply buy it in trays ready to go? The answer is simple: quality. Two relative newcomers to the Santa Barbara restaurant scene, Bibi Ji and The Bluewater Grill, have both opened with signature urchin dishes. Chef Jessi Singh of Bibi Ji features fresh Uni Biryani on their regular menu. It’s their local take on a classic Indian rice dish, beautifully presented inside the urchin shell. At Bluewater Grill, Chef Chanel Ducharme features local urchin as a blackboard special when he gets it from the harbor— serving it in the shell with house-made furikake saltines. Early on, both chefs had to contend with late winter storms and rough seas that frequently keep divers out of the water, but at the time of publication Bibi Ji plans to keep it on the regular menu and Bluewater Grill hopes to put it on their regular menu in August. What is it about urchin that makes chefs go to such lengths to include it on their menus? For me, I think that urchin as an ingredient evokes the purest unadulterated essence of the sea. Imagine for a moment that I was going to prepare a menu for you that would celebrate the bounty of the Santa Barbara coast. I would begin that meal with a simple urchin dish, perhaps garnished with a pinch of briny-pickled sea vegetables. I would ask you to eat the urchin in a single bite, to close your eyes and, as the urchin rests on your tongue, breathe in deeply through your nose before exhaling through your mouth. This process, known as retronasal olfaction, is often utilized by sommeliers to grasp the nuances of wine. When we smell through the back of the nose, we induce a perception of smell that can trigger memories. The moment you begin to exhale your mind should be transported; you might find yourself walking by the beach at low tide, or on a childhood vacation to the seashore. For me, urchin evokes memories of foraging along the Big Sur coastline. Just like fresh chanterelles suggest walking over damp leaves in an ancient oak forest, or the way artisan goat cheese conjures up the haze of wildflowers in a grassy field, urchin connects our palates to primordial memories of the ocean. Whether you are at a fine-dining restaurant in downtown Los Angeles, a traditional sushi bar in Tokyo, or in the comfort of your own home, tasting a freshly harvested Santa Barbara urchin will transport you back to this stretch of coast we are so lucky to call home. John Cox is the chef partner at The Bear and Star in Los Olivos. When he isn’t in the kitchen, or at home on his boat in Santa Barbara, he loves traveling the world in search of new culinary experiences.
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Where to Find Local Urchin Where to Find Local Urchin Here are some places you can count on to serve local urchin, although availability varies and new places pop up all the time. The best thing to do is ask if a restaurant sources local urchin. If they do, thank them for supporting our local seafood industry!
Regularly Serving Fresh Local Urchin Bibi Ji 734 State St., Santa Barbara BibiJiSB.com
Blackbird 36 State St., Santa Barbara TheHotelCalifornian.com
Bluewater Grill 15 E. Cabrillo Blvd., Santa Barbara BluewaterGrill.com
Industrial Eats 181 Industrial Way, Buellton IndustrialEats.com
Loquita Santa Barbara 202 State St., Santa Barbara LoquitaSB.com
Santa Barbara Fish Market 117 Harbor Way, Santa Barbara SBFish.com
Saturday Fishermen’s Market 6–11am Saturdays at the Santa Barbara Harbor CFSB.info
Santa Barbara Shellfish Company 230 Stearns Wharf, Santa Barbara ShellfishCo.com
Serving Local Urchin on Occasion The Bear and Star 2860 Grand Ave., Los Olivos TheBearAndStar.com
Bell’s 406 Bell St., Los Alamos BellsRestaurant.com
Convivo 901 E. Cabrillo Blvd., Santa Barbara ConvivoRestaurant.com
Frankland’s Crab and Co. 1295 Coast Village Rd., Montecito FranklandsCrabAndCompany.com
Full of Life Flatbread 225 Bell St., Los Alamos FullOfLifeFoods.com
The Monarch 1295 Coast Village Rd., Montecito ScratchRestaurants.com
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Quintessential California Santa Barbara Wine Country Built on a Handshake
by Sonja Magdevski
John Belfy at the Rio Vista vineyard.
he only reason I make wine is because I gave my word to a farmer. The only reason that farmer grows grapes is because he gave his word to a farmer. John Belfy was the first vineyard manager I had ever met, more than 10 years ago. Standing at Tierra Alta vineyard in Ballard Canyon I was terrified by the size and scale of what I was about to embark onâ€”a whopping 1.5 tons of Viognier grapes for the 2008 harvest. For an absolute garagiste novice like me, that was a huge investment in the big leagues. This world was radically different from the half-acre backyard planting I started with in 2004, digging in the dirt not knowing anything besides angst, hoping the 800 tiny sticks we had just planted in the earth would grow straight. 52 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Know your farmer I wouldn’t even be writing these words today if a number of pioneering folks hadn’t risked it all to plant grapes in virtually unknown territory. Dale Hampton was one of those people who came to Santa Barbara County as a 30-year-old from Delano riding along with Louis Lucas and his family in the late 1960s. They were looking to plant coastal wine grapes that were fetching top dollar compared to Central Valley grapes. Hampton had come from farming table grapes with the Lucas family (from Lucas and Lewellyn winery today), which was a much different gamble than wine grapes. “Each grape had to be cosmetically perfect,” he said. Hampton grew up in a tiny town outside of Delano. After returning from military service, he found a job planting potatoes on a neighbor’s property. He jumped at the opportunity to grow grapes. “Anything to get out of them taters,” Hampton smiled. After eight years with the company, they headed west for a greater opportunity. When they first arrived in 1969, it was slim
STE VEN BROWN
Well, they didn’t. Which is one of the reasons I was standing next to Belfy outside of his white pickup truck on a hot spring day at the top of the hill overlooking the rows I was about to shake hands on. Lesson number one in this messy concept called terroir: Know your site and your grapes. Blind faith can only take you so far if the rest of the system is out of balance. Pros like Belfy also had to learn those lessons early on, which is how Santa Barbara County’s American Viticultural Areas were established and continue to be created—by growers and winemakers pushing one another to always make things better, more defined and more expressive. “We were all growing mediocre grapes years ago when we first started,” Belfy said. “The wines coming out of Santa Ynez weren’t world-renowned wines. There were some exceptions, of course, a few shooting stars, but nobody focused on cultural care in the vineyard. We didn’t cut shoulders off grape clusters, pull laterals, green drop, leaf pull or top vines—all standard practices today. We’d water so much and the grapes would grow so big that in 12-foot rows the vines would meet in the middle and tangle up. We’d run a tractor with a cane cutter through those rows three times during the growing season.” All that has changed quickly over the course of 30 years, Belfy said, primarily as the goals for wine quality changed within the county. As more vineyards were being planted, growers and wineries were learning how to farm efficiently and sustainably. As a result, winemakers have made better wines, demand better farming practices and growers are raising better grapes. They are unified in the shared goal of world-class wines made from impeccably farmed fruit. “It took a lot of experimentation from everyone to learn together and the learning curve was steep,” Belfy said. “I have planted so many varietals in our county over the years that nobody had ever farmed before, like Grenache Blanc, Arneis, Verdelho and Tempranillo, that we all had to discover on the job what the best practices were. Today I farm vineyards where the owner’s only concern is to make sure they have the best winemakers sourcing their fruit and that those winemakers are happy with the quality.”
pickings in terms of established industry knowledge. The only colleagues they had to call on were UC Davis viticulturalists Uriel Nielsen, who was also from Delano, and Bill DeMattei, who planted an experimental commercial vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley in 1964 with an assortment of trial varietals. Including “a whole wall of Cabernet Sauvignon,” Hampton said, grinning at the memory of youthful mistakes. Today that original Nielsen vineyard is owned by Jackson Family Wines. Within their first year of arriving, Hampton and his team were determined to accomplish what they set out to do and began planting 800 acres of vines in Tepusquet Canyon in 1970 with only grit and fortitude on their side. “We originally planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Semillon and even some Pinot Noir, too,” Hampton said. “We planted stuff that didn’t need to be there because we didn’t have a clue.” Grape selection was based on what varietals would sell. Their target market was large-scale Napa Valley commercial wineries with whom their investment would hopefully pay off. Today that is hard to imagine, with the 200+ wineries that currently operate in Santa Barbara County, though in those day the local winery landscape was significantly more barren. EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 53
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The first few years were a blur for Hampton as they were soon contracted to plant today’s more recognized established properties, including Bien Nacido, Zaca Mesa, Firestone and Riverbench. That was just the start. His footsteps are embedded all over Santa Barbara County vineyards. Hampton was the first to use stainless steel stakes instead of wooden stakes when planting, and the first to install overhead sprinklers for frost protection. Additionally, he was the first to begin the process of establishing the Santa Maria Valley AVA, which was awarded in 1981. Over the course of almost 40 years he has worked with all of the biggest names in the California wine industry—Gallo, Beringer, Mondavi, Jackson Family—and continues to do so today. Just shy of 80 years old, he still puts in full days managing a number of large-scale commercial ranches, mostly in Los Alamos. He recently recalled the story of working with Julio Gallo. “He was a really smart guy,” Hampton said with the mischievous twinkle in his eye that is his signature trait. “He could run through a vineyard at Mach 2 speed and tell you what he wanted you to do. And you don’t buffalo him anyway, you just listened.” Gallo would fly over in a helicopter to visit ranches, land in the vineyard, unpack a lunch and always serve wine. Inevitably he would question Hampton’s opinion on the wine. “What are you going to say? ‘Damn, this is the best stuff I ever had!’” Hampton said, hardly containing his laugh. “There are a bunch of characters in this business that I have really enjoyed working with.”
Know your friends If you spend anytime with Dale Hampton, your cheeks hurt from smiling. He is the kind of guy who makes time stand still. I met him a number of years back after Belfy told him I had opened a tasting room in Los Alamos. He walked in wearing his standard uniform of pressed shirt, Wrangler jeans and cowboy boots to say hello. I was thrilled to meet him not just because of his history in our area. I wanted to know the man Belfy spoke so fondly of, who had changed his life, so that he could change mine. Hampton hired Belfy in 1984 to manage a large ranch on Foxen Canyon road where Koehler Winery sits today. “If anyone could get along with the owner Douglas Cramer it was John,” Hampton said. “He’s 85 and lives in Florida today, and I still hear from him at Christmas every year,” Belfy answered. Hampton oversaw the vineyard on the property and Belfy ran everything else. By the early 1990s Hampton was flooded with work and encouraged Belfy to start his own vineyard management company to assist him. He wanted to work with someone he trusted and knew would work hard for each client. “Dale kept telling me, ‘You’ll make more money, it will be better for you and your family,’” Belfy recalled. Lesson number two in this messy concept called terroir: People have an impact on the environment. “I don’t hire people for their brains,” Hampton said. “I hire people for how they work. I don’t look at their diplomas. John did all the work. He knew how to do it all. I have a guy I still work with at White Hills Vineyard who has been there since 1969. He knows all the secrets. When he goes, I go. I know today how things have changed and I understand you need to be a computer expert with all this hightech stuff we use in the fields, but the problem is these young
kids don’t have enough real-life, on-the-ground experience to understand what they are seeing on those screens.” Belfy was terrified to start his own company and he didn’t have any money to fund a new business that required immediate capital. Hampton was having none of it. He told Belfy if he fell flat on his face he would hire him back. If he needed money, he would loan him money. Most importantly, all the new clients he didn’t have time to work with, he would send Belfy’s way. With $5,000, Belfy started Buona Terra Farming. He hired the former secretary Hampton suggested he hire, who managed the office and all the accounts and who was also indispensible in securing two major lines of credit with local banks for Belfy to support his business. His first client was Mary Beth Vogelzang of Vogelzang Vineyards in Happy “She didn’t listen to me when I told her not to plant grapes,” Hampton joked. Belfy was thrilled to get the contract and wanted the site to be a showpiece. “I love designing vineyards,” Belfy said. “Mary Beth doesn’t know this, but I spent every waking hour at that ranch walking the perimeter, understanding each slope and hillside to make it beautiful.” A vineyard-planting boom followed with Starlane, Happy Canyon Vineyards, Fess Parker, Camp 4, Tierra Alta, Estelle, Rio Vista, Martian… the list goes on. “I still have boxes and boxes of documents in the warehouse of every vineyard I have ever worked with, listed by year,” Belfy said. “I get the craziest calls from people all the time asking, ‘Hey, John, you probably don’t remember where you got those cuttings from back when…’ And I always do.” To sit with the two of them sharing stories is akin to experiencing the oral folk traditions of history. Belfy keeps saying he is going to write a book. Perhaps he can keep a running log of his daily conversations with Hampton. They still talk almost every day. They established themselves during a time in this business when everyone shared everything: crews, machinery, knowledge, equipment, picking bins. All the vineyard managers had one universal phone system linked through Hampton that connected them during harvest— a grape-picking party line to keep abreast of activities and tell jokes in the middle of a long night. During frost season, everyone knew how to engage their neighbor’s sprinklers for protection. If someone was missing during a particularly cold night, they’d barge in their front door to wake them. While the smudge pots were burning and the sprinklers were turning they’d roll over to Ellen’s Diner in Buellton at 5am waiting for the chill to pass. Lesson number three in this messy concept called terroir: Nurture what you cultivate. They also talk about current dilemmas they are facing. Labor issues. The ever-changing landscape of California agricultural laws. Machine versus hand harvesting. Viticultural pests, water, weather, grape pricing, the environment. The stuff farmers talk about. I asked them if they’d do it all again knowing what they know today. “Absolutely,” Hampton said. “If I was a younger man I’d start all over again.” Sonja Magdevski is winemaker/owner of Casa Dumetz Wines, a tiny producer in love with Grenache and specializing in Santa Barbara County Rhône varietals. She is also a reemerging journalist finding her way in the intricate and wonderful world of wine.
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Egg Salad Sandwich What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste
Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped onion • A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil or tarragon • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash of white wine vinegar Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional) Additional pickled vegetables (optional) Lettuce Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix until incorporated but with a still chunky texture. Taste and add more seasoning or additions if needed. Create an open-faced or closed sandwich using additional mayonnaise on each slice if you love mayonnaise—or just mustard, or neither. Pickled vegetables make a great topping as well, such as a couple stalks of Pacific Pickle Works Asparagusto. — Krista Harris
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Salsa— Summer in a Sauce
Words and photos by Rosminah Brown
Opposite: Tomatillos. Above: Making salsa in a molcajete.
rowing up, my exposure to salsa was to just one style over a pile of delicious food. Regardless of how it got its style—a combination of chopped tomatoes, onion, name, pico de gallo can refer to any type of fresh fruit salsa (not cilantro, perhaps some jalapeño, bound together just tomato) depending on the region of Mexico. with lime juice and a pinch of With the rising popularity of salt. I’m going to go so far as taquerias and the recognition that In addition to the ubiquitous salsa to say that most of mainstream Mexican cuisine goes incredibly mexicana and other tomato-based America views this as salsa, and far beyond street food, we’ve become coming from a jar no less. exposed to a greater variety of salsas. salsas, choices now include all sorts This salsa mexicana, when made Ramón Velasquez of Corazón Cocina of fruity salsas and nut-based salsas. explains that salsas generally mean fresh, is of course delicious, and Try the sesame salsa or the pistachio condiments—not just sauces— it is an appropriate nod to the covering a whole range of silky thin to red, white and green colors of salsa at Mony’s in the Funk Zone or chunky or even dry variations. the Mexican flag. the arbol peanut salsa at Corazón It can also be called pico de Just as the cuisine of Mexico varies gallo, translated as “beak of the from region to region, so do the salsas Cocina, for example. rooster.” Maybe it was called that are created to complement the specialties of those areas. Salsas from Veracruz, for example, this because it can be pinched up with thumb and forefinger pointed like a beak or perhaps because the ingredients roughly reflect the combination of Spanish and Moorish influences come together in way reminiscent of a rooster’s frantic pecking with its abundant seafood. There you’ll often find a salsa EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 57
The ingredients for the Creamy Tomatillo Salsa.
using olives and capers gracing a platter of freshly caught and prepared fish. While in Oaxaca, nuts and spices define the mole sauces. It’s exciting to see that local Santa Barbara restaurants are embracing variety as well. In addition to the ubiquitous salsa mexicana and other tomato-based salsas, choices now include all sorts of fruity salsas and nut-based salsas. Try the sesame salsa or the pistachio salsa at Mony’s in the Funk Zone or the arbol peanut salsa at Corazón Cocina, for example. If your tastes run toward green salsas, you’ll quickly realize that the tomatillo is a superstar in the salsa world, creating a wide range of salsa verde. It may be referred to as a “little tomato” or “Mexican green tomato,” but its genus is Physalis, and it is more closely related to Cape gooseberries than to tomatoes, and it is not to be confused with an unripe tomato at all. Both, however, are in the nightshade family, Solanceae, the same family that gives us chile peppers, eggplants, potatoes and tobacco. 58 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
The tomatillo is a prolific summer-growing fruit. The plant has a sprawling habit, and traditionally it was planted in between stalks of corn for support. The tomatillo fruits vary greatly from pea-size to heavy like baseballs, and all are enclosed in a papery husk. They are considered ripe at any stage when the fruit fills out the husk, or husks dry out, or when the fruit drops to the ground. The large, bright green varieties usually seen at the grocery store are considered early ripe, and tend to have a more sour taste, while fully ripe ones, usually smaller, tend to be sweeter. They can be spotted at the farmers markets in the summertime. If the plants are grown in your garden, they will require some staking to contain their sprawl. They provide a continual harvest of fruit and reseed easily. Both tart and sweet ones are great for making salsas. If you are looking to make your own salsa with tomatillos, I have two recipes at the end of this article. But before you flip to those, there’s the matter of technique or, more specifically, the tool you use to make the salsa.
The molcajete and its accompanying temolote is the Mexican mortar and pestle. You often see it used for tableside guacamole preparations at restaurants. It can be used for much more. At restaurants like Los Agaves there is even a dish on the menu that is a bubbling hot stew served in the molcajete. What makes the molcajete special? Is it authentic to use it? For authenticity, the answer is yes. Kind of. An authentic molcajete comes from Mexico and is made of basalt or volcanic rock. There are products labeled as molcajete coming from other countries—made of concrete or granite, but these are not what you want. The use of the traditional basalt molcajete dates back to Mesoamerican cultures like the Maya and Aztec. It was a useful tool for grinding spices and nuts, as well as mixing salsas. Think of it as the low-tech version of a food processor (while the wide, sloping metate is used for grinding grain). The basalt texture of the molcajete is rough and pitted, which is ideal for grinding, but a new molcajete requires seasoning to remove grit stuck between the air pockets. This is done by grinding white rice into the molcajete by the handful, until no more grit can be seen in the rice powder. It can take hours of hand grinding. With continual use, the surface of the molcajete smooths out the deepest pits, yet also renews itself by eventually grinding down the air bubbles to reveal new ones. This rough stone texture is exactly what helps bring together the flavors and texture of a salsa. Crushing the ingredients by hand allows better control of how coarse or chunky you want it. Over time, the molcajete becomes additionally seasoned by the flavors of the spices, which many swear makes a guacamole or salsa recipe taste better than if it had been mixed in a regular bowl. When properly seasoned and lovingly cared for a molcajete will last for many years. Chances are, a Hispanic family with a love of home cooking has a molcajete that’s been passed down through generations. And chances are that it might be gathering some dust as most homes these days have the electric food processors that do the work of a molcajete in seconds. If you are looking to buy a molcajete, check out specialty kitchenware markets, Mexican food markets or Mexican art and craft stores. Look for ones that are heavy, sturdy and sit flat. Check that it is made of basalt or volcanic rock, and that it was made in Mexico. It should be rough and pitted. The seasoning period to get your molcajete into working order is a rite of passage. When assembling your salsa in the molcajete, start with seasonings first, such as the salt and garlic, and work them with the temolote into a paste. The bulkier main ingredients are added last, like the chopped tomatillos or, in the case of guacamole, the avocado is added last. This ordering allows the seasonings and spices to incorporate better into the salsa and gives you greater control over the texture of the main ingredients. Whatever salsa you make, it will be delicious served over grilled meats and vegetables, or scooped up with tortilla chips. ¡Provecho! (continued on page 60)
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Recipes Tomatillo Chipotle Salsa Alex Stupak’s cookbook, Tacos, is consistently more about the salsas than the meat in the tacos themselves. He is quick to point out the ingredients in tomatillo salsas may begin to sound redundant, it’s all about varying the ingredients’ amounts and the addition of seasonings that change the overall flavor considerably. Here, it is roasting the main ingredients, the addition of smokey jalapeño in adobo sauce, and a touch of sweetness that makes this salsa tangy and deeply flavorful. This will keep 3–4 days in the fridge. It also freezes well. Makes 2 cups 10 ounces tomatillos, husked, rinsed and patted dry 1 medium onion, sliced as 1 ⁄ 4 -inch rings 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons honey 3– 4 canned chipotle chiles— heat level varies greatly between brands, start with fewer chiles initially and add more to your liking.
Preheat a broiler. Place the tomatillos on a baking pan and broil for about 14 minutes, until blackened in spots, turning once halfway through. Remove from the broiler and set aside to cool. They will release some juices, which you can also use in the salsa. Meanwhile, set a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the onion slices and unpeeled garlic cloves to the pan and dry roast, turning them once or twice, until softened and blackened in spots. Set aside to cool; once they are cool enough to handle, peel the cloves, discarding the skin.
TO MAKE IN A MOLCAJETE Add half of the salt, honey and chiles to the molcajete and crush into a rough paste, then add 1 ⁄ 2 of the onions and tomatillos until you have a coarse, chunky sauce. Repeat with the other half of the ingredients.
TO MAKE IN A FOOD PROCESSOR Place the roasted tomatillos, roasted onions and garlic, the chiles, salt and honey in a food processor or blender and pulse or blend on low until it is a coarse, chunky sauce.
Creamy Tomatillo Salsa This salsa verde is inspired by the burrito shops of San Francisco’s Mission District. The addition of an avocado (or two) makes the salsa thick and creamy. It uses all raw ingredients, which gives it a hotter, more vibrant taste that mellows out within a day. This recipe makes a quart of salsa, which you may find you’ll eat faster than you realize, but is best consumed within 3–4 days, stored in the fridge. Makes 1 quart 1 pound tomatillos, husked, rinsed and patted dry 1 medium onion 60 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
2 jalapeños, seeded if you like your salsa less spicy (wear gloves if you remove the seeds) 2 peeled cloves of garlic 1
T H E G AT H E R I N G TA B L E
⁄ 2 cup cilantro, can include some stems
1 or 2 avocados, peeled, pitted and cut into chunks 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon kosher salt
Roughly chop the tomatillos, onion, jalapeños and garlic and tear the cilantro.
TO MAKE IN A MOLCAJETE
AT T H E
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Divide the quantities into 4 and do 1 ⁄ 2 of a batch at a time. First add the salt and garlic. Then add the jalapeño, tomatillos, onion, cilantro, lime juice and avocado. Grind until it is as smooth or chunky as you like. Add more salt to taste.
TO MAKE IN A FOOD PROCESSOR Add the tomatillos, onion, jalapeños, garlic and cilantro to a food processor or blender. Add the avocado. Add the lime juice and salt, and then pulse or blend on low, scraping down the sides as needed, until it is as smooth or chunky as you like. Add more salt to taste. Rosminah Brown is a Santa Barbara native who types fast and eats slow. She is sad for the loss of her walnut tree, which is also a Santa Barbara native, and hopes it will start anew, as though nothing had happened. But just in case, she saved some seeds for planting.
3315 State St. & 1324 State St. Santa Barbara, California www.renaudsbakery.com (805) 569-2400 EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 61
Where Once There Was Lawn
Permaculture Garden at Santa Barbara City College
STE VEN BROWN
by Jennifer LeMay
The garden in front of the West Campus Center at Santa Barbara City College.
BIG CHANGES are taking root on the West Campus of Santa Barbara City College. A permaculture garden, planted in 2015, has expanded and is thriving just a few yards away from the new three-story West Campus Center, a LEED Platinum–certified building that boasts spectacular views of the city and ocean. The garden, like the building, is functional and beautiful.
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ermaculture is a concept developed in the 1970s that promotes design based on ecological principles to create resource-efficient and productive human environments. It features sustainable and regenerative systems for providing shelter, water, food and energy. Permaculture gardens are developed over time, using observation and flexibility to adapt to the needs of a particular site and promote a healthy ecosystem. Where once there was lawn, sometimes drought-stricken and brown, now at SBCC you see an array of organic vegetables growing in plots, strategically placed between stone-lined pathways, fruit trees and flowering pollinator plants (mostly native). As I overheard one passerby say, “there’s definitely a different vibe over here now.” Seeing poppies, sunflowers, artichokes and cornstalks on your way from the parking lot by the Business
STE VEN BROWN
Communication building certainly puts you in a cheerier frame of mind. When everything is blooming, it’s easy to forget that the garden actually produces food as well. “Our plan is to provide more fresh, organic produce to the food pantry and food share on campus,” said Jackson Hayes, project manager for the garden and the SBCC Center for Sustainability. His eyes light up when he talks, and it’s easy to see that this is a goal he’s excited about. He is referring to the new and improved food pantry and the food share distribution program on campus, recently established to meet a critical need for providing students with access to nutritious food. Both programs are supplied mainly by the FoodBank of Santa Barbara County. The permaculture garden will provide more fresh produce and a greater variety of premium organic fruits and vegetables that are very local—the garden is footsteps away from the meadow where tables are set up and SBCC student and staff volunteers hand out staples to hundreds of participants twice a month. Lately Jackson and his volunteers have been handing out recipes at the food share to participants who say they aren’t sure how to prepare certain vegetables, such as collard greens and artichokes, so more people will be able to enjoy them. Artichokes in particular are a vegetable most people avoid because they are too expensive, and they don’t know what to do with them. Good thing he planted a lot of them. As we strolled through the garden one sunny afternoon, Hayes pointed out the profusion of fava beans planted near young fruit trees and other crops. “This area was pretty heavily farmed last year, so we planted fava beans and peas to put more nitrogen back in the soil,” he said, adding that they do a lot of crop rotation, inter-cropping (planting crops that work together to benefit each other and the soil) and integrated pest management. No outside or artificial fertilizers are used. An onsite compost pile is strategically placed in a tucked-away corner of the garden that is also elevated, allowing nutrients to be easily applied to other parts of the garden. We walked through each of the five plots in the garden, checking out the asparagus, celery, tomatoes, beets, peppers, blackberries, strawberries and fruit trees (nectarines, blood oranges, avocados, pomegranates), and I wondered about how these and all the other plants were selected. Hayes describes the garden as “experimental,” and explained that they work by trial and error, re-planting crops that did well the previous year. Using permaculture principles, plants are chosen to take advantage of the terrain, provide ground cover, distribute water appropriately and retain soil moisture. Fog catchers provide additional water for the garden. At one point he reached down to pick something and handed it to me, saying, “You have to try this!” It was a small white strawberry, bursting with flavor; it was truly incredible. Hayes says his favorite pollinator plants in the garden are the native milkweed, California sunflowers, and hummingbird sage. There are many others. He’s excited about planting a native plant (Solanum xanti) that is known to attract native
Jackson Hayes, project manager for the garden and the SBCC Center for Sustainability.
bees that have evolved to pollinate plants in that genus, which includes tomatoes. He’s experimenting to see if introducing these plants will increase tomato yields. Volunteers, mostly students, show up at the garden on specified Fridays to work. People often stop to ask questions, and some end up joining the crew. While the idea to create a permaculture garden on campus had been around for a few years EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 63
STE VEN BROWN
Top: Sunflowers, artichokes, Jackson Hayes checks the corn. Bottom: Grapevines, borage flowers and corn.
and was in the planning stages, the planting phase began when Hayes was enrolled at SBCC and taking the course Projects in Sustainability with professor Dr. Adam Green. During the course students work in groups to develop projects that make the college and local community more sustainable. And the focus is on utilizing real-world skills to come up with practical solutions to local environmental and social problems. Creating a sustainable edible garden on campus, one that will now help to feed those in need, was a perfect fit. Having graduated from SBCC, Hayes continues to oversee operations at the garden as he pursues his BA in environmental studies at UCSB.
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Thanks to those who had the vision for the garden, to Hayes and his team and to all the people who put in many hours of volunteer labor, the permaculture garden on campus is now a reality. Those involved continue to seek ongoing funding through work-study programs, grants and other support. Iâ€™m excited to see the garden grow and for the food to be enjoyed by those who need it. If youâ€™re on campus, come by and check it out! Jennifer LeMay is a designer, writer and artist who loves great local food and our bountiful farmers market. She has contributed to Edible Santa Barbara since 2010. JLeMay.com
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Inspiration from the Market Table by Pascale Beale
n the little town in Provence my family calls home, the local farmers market takes place twice a week under dappled light in a large tree-lined square. It is one of my absolute favorites places. In fact, all farmers markets are, as they hold the promise of the unexpected: the first apricots or cherries of the season perhaps, or some plump, ripe figs, magnificent heirloom tomatoes or bouquets of basil and other fragrant herbs. Markets, anywhere in the world, tempt me, and I am drawn to them like bees to nectar for they feed my culinary inspiration. Luckily for us, six days a week in Santa Barbara County you will find, dotted along the main thoroughfares of our local towns, a ritual sprouting of market umbrellas that herald, much like the emergence of wild mushrooms, the bounty from local farmers. As they set up their trestle tables, the delights of each season are revealed, tempting us with their fragrance, beauty and abundance. Part of each market’s charm comes from its locale and everyone has their favorite: the quaint, timbered-lined streets of Solvang; the beachy, ocean-breeze-caressed, laid-back feel of the Thursday afternoon market in Carpinteria; the hip, musical, bustling vibe of Tuesday evenings on State Street in Santa Barbara; the multi-cultural, student-filled, internationally flavored atmosphere of the Goleta Sunday Market; the intimate flower- and plant-filled market that migrates up and down Coast Village Road on Friday mornings in Montecito. I too have my favorites, but over the course of the past few months I have rediscovered the attractions of every market in the county and found plenty of inspiration along the way. The Carpinteria market is perhaps the most relaxed of them all, a true reflection of the beachside community it serves. Kids scamper about with the telltale signs of having sampled sweet summer strawberries and plump stone fruit with their juicestained fingers and sticky cheeks; people stroll up from the beach in sand-filled sandals, past the eclectic selection of stands that frame the ocean end of the market, and slowly meander past the abundantly filled tables. On a recent Thursday I came across some exquisitely beautiful, sunflower-yellow squash blossoms. I couldn’t resist and cooked them that very evening, stuffed with a mixture of freshly sautéed zucchini, spinach, some leftover roasted chicken, all mixed with ricotta and mounds of fresh herbs that had perfumed
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the stalls. I served the cooked stuffed blossoms on a bed of wild greens. My daughter said it “tastes like summer on a plate.” Her comment made me reflect how much I enjoy savoring each piece of fruit or each vegetable at its height of freshness. Surely that is one of the greatest pleasures when buying items directly from the farmers, with produce picked just hours before, bursting with flavor and packed with nutrients. It tastes so much better that way! I always feel as though the weekend has truly begun once I’m at the Saturday morning market. I love running into friends and catching up on the week’s news and chatting with farmers about what they have that’s new. It’s where I pick up my eggs, delicious goat cheese from Deb Neal at Drake Family Farms, baskets of berries, a bag or two of decadent dates, and fill my baskets with great bunches of herbs that tantalize my olfactory senses. I tend to get carried away when faced with such a treasure trove, which often results in impromptu get-togethers in the garden or on the terrace at home. The meals are uncomplicated, sometimes starting with a simple aperitif, a glass of rosé perhaps from local vineyards and an appetizer of fresh radishes, a baguette, some salt and butter. The dishes that follow are frequently a collection of salads and roasted vegetables capped off with a fruit tart, a clafoutis or a berry-topped pavlova. These spontaneous gatherings are often my favorites, a great way to unwind with friends and truly savor the season. The markets also feed my creative juices when planning special events. My daughter recently celebrated a milestone birthday. She had suggested a picnic in a vineyard with friends and family. I was happy to oblige and asked what dishes she would like, which triggered a remembrance of picnics past. Funny how so many of life’s occasions are memorable because of what we ate. Our conversation took place on a sunny Saturday morning as we ambled past magnificent mounds of produce at the Cota Street market, which hummed with activity as people filled their baskets with everything from asparagus to round baby squash, and fragrant peaches to tangy lemons. We munched on raw snap peas as we planned the menu. Nearby colorful beets and spring peas were heaped chest high and the idea for a giant multi-hued salad came to mind. We found some raw black-eyed peas and decided to add those to the dish too.
C AROLE TOPALIAN
C AROLE TOPALIAN PASC ALE BE ALE
A basket of produce, Robert “BD” Dautch of Earthtrine Farm, French breakfast radishes.
In the end we made a giant salad for 20 people and dotted the top with burrata. We filled the car with prodigious supplies, a patchwork of Provençal tablecloths, some freshly baked bread, hot vegetable quiches and a grilled zucchini and tarragon roasted chicken salad. We gathered around a long table set in the vineyard, the warm air singing with crickets, and celebrated her 21st circumnavigation of the sun. Laughter and conversation filled the car on the drive home through the undulating hills that connect the Santa Ynez Valley to the coast, bathed in a golden glow from the setting sun.
A kaleidoscope of images rushed through my mind as I recalled her previous al fresco birthday gatherings, from childhood tea parties to springtime feasts in the garden. Birthdays and holidays by their very cyclical nature mark the passage of time, and the foods we prepare to celebrate them are a true reflection of the season, mirrored in the produce we find in our local farmers markets. Whether a special occasion or a spurof-the-moment gathering, these crops are the palette with which we can create delectable memories. Bon appetit!
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 67
Recipes Stuffed Squash Blossoms You can make this with or without the chicken. The blossoms go particularly well with a salad of wild greens. Even if you use large squash blossoms, you may have some filling left over—it’s delicious on toast! Makes 8 servings Olive oil 1 red onion, peeled and finely diced 4 spring onions, finely sliced 2 small yellow squash, ends trimmed, then chopped into small dice 2 small zucchini, ends trimmed, then chopped into small dice Salt Pepper 1
⁄ 2 pound baby spinach
2 roasted chicken legs, deboned and all the meat chopped up in to small pieces (if using) 4 ounces whole-milk ricotta 2 tablespoons each finely chopped chives, parsley and cilantro 16–20 fresh squash blossoms
Pour a little olive oil into a large pan over medium-high heat. Add the red and spring onions and sauté until lightly golden brown. Stir frequently for 4–5 minutes. Add the squash and zucchini, a good pinch of salt and 6–7 grinds fresh pepper and cook until golden brown, 5–6 minutes. Add the spinach and chicken (if using) and cook until the spinach has just wilted, 1–2 minutes. Place the squash-zucchini mixture in a large bowl. Add the ricotta and all the herbs. Stir to combine. Carefully spoon the mixture into each of the squash blossoms. The petals are delicate so take care not to tear them. Gently twist the top of each blossom to encapsulate the filling. Heat a little olive oil in a large shallow pan over medium heat.
PASCALE BE ALE
Once the oil is hot, carefully sauté the blossoms until lightly golden brown on all sides. As they cook quickly, no more than a minute or 2, I like to do this just before serving so that they are still hot.
68 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018 2018
Grilled Zucchini and Tarragon Roasted Chicken Salad
Roasted Beet and Snap Pea Salad with Burrata Makes 8 servings
Poulet a l’estragon (tarragon chicken) was—actually still is—one of the dishes that I always looked forward to when visiting France. It’s classic bistro fare, or cuisine bourgeoise. In other words, good home cooking. Every time I find this herb at the farmers market, this is the dish I want to make. This salad pairs moist tarragon roasted chicken with grilled zucchini and a mustardy vinaigrette. To me it is the taste of summer in salad form. Makes 8 servings 1 (31 ⁄ 2 -pound) chicken 2 yellow onions, peeled and thinly sliced
2 pounds assorted small sweet beets (red, yellow, chioggia), washed clean, root end and leaves trimmed
4 sprigs tarragon to roast with the chicken plus the leaves from 1–2 more stems for the finished salad
Salt 1 pound sprouted black-eyed peas, thoroughly rinsed 1 pound snap peas, sliced lengthwise on a bias Pepper Juice and zest of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar or white wine vinegar 5 zucchini, ends trimmed away and then sliced on a bias
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon red wine or champagne vinegar 2 tablespoons finely chopped chives 2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley 1 large burrata, cut into eighths
Preheat oven to 375°. Place the washed, but unpeeled, beets into a shallow baking dish. Drizzle with a little olive oil and a good pinch of salt. Cook for 35–40 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a sharp knife. They should not be overcooked though. Remove from the oven and let cool before peeling. Once peeled, cut each beet into eighths. Steam the black-eyed peas for 15–20 minutes, until just cooked. Drain and rinse thoroughly. Pour a little olive oil into a large skillet placed over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, sauté the sliced snap peas with a good pinch of salt and 5–6 grinds of black pepper. Cook for 2–3 minutes, until just slightly golden. Remove from the heat and add the lemon zest and juice. Stir to combine. In a large salad bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar and 3 tablespoons olive oil until you have a thick emulsion. Place salad utensils over the vinaigrette. Add the cooked black-eyed peas, sautéed snap peas and peeled beets to the bowl, on top of the utensils. Sprinkle the vegetables with the chives and parsley. When ready to serve, toss gently to combine. Spoon some salad onto
Preheat oven to 400°. Cover the bottom of a roasting pan with the sliced onions. Place the chicken on top and drizzle with a little olive oil. Tuck the tarragon sprigs around the chicken. Sprinkle a little salt over the chicken and then grind some black pepper over the top. Roast for 60–90 minutes (or until a thermometer into the thickest part of a thigh, not touching the bone, reaches at least 165°). Spoon the mustard into the bottom of a large salad bowl. Pour in the olive oil and vinegar and whisk together well. It will look like mayonnaise. Place the serving utensils on top of the vinaigrette. Pour a little olive oil into a large mixing bowl and add all the zucchini slices, a pinch of salt and some pepper. Toss to coat. Place a griddle on top of a stove and heat so that it gets nice and hot. Grill the zucchini slices so that they are just cooked. Turn them after 2 minutes. You may have to do this in batches as all the slices may not fit on the griddle in 1 layer. Add the grilled zucchini to the salad bowl. Place the cooked chicken on a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes before carving. Carve the chicken, removing all the meat and chopping it up into bite-sized pieces. Add the chicken pieces, the sliced roasted onions and the fresh tarragon leaves to the bowl with the utensils on top of the vinaigrette. When you are ready to serve, toss the ingredients well so that everything gets nicely coated with the vinaigrette. Note: Deft use of the herb is key, as the slightly anise-flavored herb can be overpowering if used in large quantities.
each plate and top with a piece of creamy burrata. EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 69
Green Tomato, Melon and Cucumber Soup Last summer was boiling hot, as in too-hot-to-even-thinkabout-cooking hot. We ate gardens of salads and drank gallons of very cold drinks. One sweltering Saturday morning at the market, I sampled green melons that were so fresh and flavorful that I thought I would try making a chilled soup with them. This was the refreshing result— perfect for a summer’s day, boiling or otherwise. Makes 6–8 servings
FOR THE SOUP 1 pound (6–7) green tomatoes 1 green Honeydew or Bailan melon (3–3½ pounds), halved, seeded, peeled and roughly chopped 3 Persian or 1 English cucumber, peeled and roughly chopped 4 tablespoons olive oil Large pinch of sea salt 5–6 grinds black pepper
FOR THE GARNISH 16 yellow pear or small yellow blush tomatoes, quartered 2 tablespoons cilantro leaves, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons chopped Thai basil leaves Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon olive oil Pinch of coarse sea salt 6 –7 grinds black pepper Pink flake salt
Place all the soup ingredients in a blender and purée until smooth. Alternatively, place the ingredients in a deep bowl and purée with an immersion blender. Chill the soup for a minimum of 1 hour. Then 15 minutes before serving the soup, combine all the garnish ingredients in a medium bowl and toss well to combine. Ladle the soup into 8 bowls. Spoon some of the garnish into the center of each soup bowl and sprinkle with a little pink flake salt just before serving.
Pascale Beale grew up in England and France surrounded by a family that has always been passionate about food, wine and the arts. She was taught to cook by her French mother and grandmother. She is the author of The Menu for All Seasons, Salade, Les Fruits and Les Legumes. Visit her website and blog: The Market Table at PascalesKitchen.com.
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F R I E N D S
F L O W E R S
F A M I L Y
F O O D
F U N
Taking a stroll at the farmers market is the perfect way to get inspired with the season’s bounty every week at one of our area’s six markets. Be sure to mark your calendar for this Summer’s Special Cooking Demo.
Saturday, August 25 Sansum Clinic Presents: Farmers Market Cooking Demos Join Edible Santa Barbara and Sansum Clinic this quarter for live cooking demonstrations at the Farmers Market by some of our favorite local chefs, physicians and nutrition experts. You will learn about making food choices for optimal health and discover new techniques for preparing seasonal offerings. Demos will be held at 10am, 11am and Noon.
6 Markets • 6 Days a Week • Rain or Shine T H U R S D AY S
S AT U R D AY S
T U E S D AY S
Downtown Santa Barbara
Old Town Santa Barbara
Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota Street 8:30am – 1:00pm
500 & 600 Blocks of State Street 4:00pm – 7:30pm
800 Block of Linden Avenue 3:00pm – 6:30pm
S U N D AY S
W E D N E S D AY S
F R I D AY S
Camino Real Marketplace
In Goleta at Storke & Hollister 10:00am – 2:00pm
Copenhagen Drive & 1st Street 2:30pm – 6:30pm
100 & 1200 Block of Coast Village Rd. 8:00am – 11:15am
Sansum Clinic’s health education programs are designed and conducted by board-certified physicians, registered dietitian nutritionists, registered nurses, certified diabetes educators, physical therapists and other specialized professionals. Many programs are free of charge and are open to all members of our community.
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Pig Roast & Toast
127th Annual Santa Barbara County Fair
12:30pm at Zaca Mesa Winery Start your summer off right with an afternoon spent at Zaca Mesa Winery roasting and toasting. Join a fun-filled day featuring a pig roast and live music. Tickets are $35 and include food and a glass of wine. Bring your family and friends and come “pig out” at this family-friendly event. More info at ZacaMesa.com.
11am–10pm daily at Santa Maria Fairpark
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August Ridge Anniversary Party
Lompoc’s New Culinary Landscape
Kids’ Cooking Class
Art on the Ranch
6–8pm at the Santa Barbara Harbor
6–7pm at Casa Dumetz Wines in Los Alamos
Help us celebrate the first anniversary of the opening of our tasting room in Santa Barbara. Enjoy a two-hour cruise on the bay, August Ridge wines and appetizers. For more information and ticket purchases ($45/club & $55/non-club) please contact email@example.com.
This Friday Night Speaker Series features Chef Augusto from Scratch Kitchen in Lompoc. Enjoy a glass of wine while Chef Augusto shares his thoughts on how the culinary scene in Lompoc has evolved and what the future may hold. Free to attend, wine and food available for purchase.
From jams and jellies to pies, photography, homemade quilts and floriculture, the Fair provides visitors with an abundant, interesting mix of educational fun. Award-winning wines, fine art, live entertainment, agriculture, horticulture, junior livestock auction and rodeo. $8–10. SantaMariaFairpark.com.
6pm at The Food Liaison, Carpinteria
9am–1pm at Rancho San Julian
Creative cooking from your garden. The Food Liaison’s Executive Chef Nirasha Rodriguez will show you how easy and fun it can be to grow and create a plant-based menu that is sure to please. $45/pp; TheFoodLiaison.com.
Enjoy a morning on historic Rancho San Julian with seventh-generation rancher Elizabeth Poett and artist Blakeney Sanford. Learn the history of the ranch, then join Blakeney for drawing and painting at the Rancho—old adobe structures, orchards, gardens and livestock. $130/pp includes breakfast, lunch and wine. TheRanchTable.com.
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Martian Ranch Winemaker Dinner
Boozy Book Club
Yoga in the Vineyard
3:30pm at August Ridge, Santa Barbara
10–11am at Zaca Mesa Winery
Join August Ridge for their July Boozy Book Club featuring Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil by Tom Mueller. Meet at the tasting room for $5 glasses of wine and fabulous discussion. No RSVP required. Contact firstname.lastname@example.org for more info.
Join Zaca Mesa Winery for a one-hour beginner/intermediate yoga class outside on the lawn overlooking the vineyard. After the class, enjoy a flight of wine. $25/pp. Tickets and more info at VineyardYogaSYV.com.
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6–9pm at Martian Ranch & Vineyard, Los Alamos Join Martian Ranch’s inaugural dinner, which will include a tour of the cellar, discussion of biodynamics, and wine paired with amazing food by Chef Clark Staub from Full of Life Flatbread. $100/pp, $80/ pp wine club member. Tickets on Eventbrite: Martian Ranch Winemaker Dinner.
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JULY Paws, Pizza and Pinot
2–6pm at Buttonwood Farm & Winery
The Santa Barbara Greek Festival
Rockin’ Our Roots Concert Come rock our roots with a summer concert at beautiful Buttonwood Farm Winery. Sit back, relax and enjoy two live and lively bands—Soul Majestic and Crown City Bombers. Bring a lawn chair, a picnic and your dancing shoes (or flip flops) as you sip estate wines and feel the groove of the vines. $45/pp; more info and tickets at ButtonwoodWinery.com.
11am–7pm at Oak Park in Santa Barbara Enjoy the sights, sounds and tastes that define the traditional Greek way of life. Stroll through Santa Barbara’s beautiful Oak Park, and experience the simple pleasures of life in a Greek village. Free and family-friendly. SantaBarbaraGreekFestival.org.
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1–4pm at Riverbench Vineyard & Winery, Santa Maria Grab your pup and head out to Riverbench Vineyard for wine tasting and wood-fired pizzas on our picturesque patio. $10/pp includes two slices of handmade pizza; wine available for purchase. Riverbench.com.
For updates and more details on these and other events, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com W E D N E S D A Y- S U N D A Y
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Old Spanish Days Fiesta
Yoga in the Vineyard
A celebration of Santa Barbara’s heritage, through music, parades, fiestas, dancing and family events. Serious foodies frequent the mercado at Our Lady of Guadalupe Church with its wide array of authentic Mexican cuisine and entertainment. Full listing of events can be found at OldSpanishDays-Fiesta.org.
Summer Desserts Cooking Class
Join Zaca Mesa Winery for a one-hour beginner/intermediate yoga class outside on the lawn overlooking the vineyard. After the class, enjoy a flight of wine. $25/pp. Tickets and more info at VineyardYogaSYV.com.
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Fiesta de Dreamcote
CineRosa: National Lampoon’s Animal House
Solvang Third Wednesday
In the Vineyard & On the Farm Dinner
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Noon–4pm at Dreamcote Wine Co., Los Olivos Join Dreamcote in celebrating Old Spanish Days in the Valley. Featuring a mini nacho bar, churro popcorn, pan dulce and Pet Nat Margaritas—and of course, a flight of their cider or wine. $20/pp, complimentary for Club Members.
8pm at Alma Rosa Estate Ranch, Buellton Enjoy classic movies under the stars while savoring a delicious glass of Alma Rosa wine and complimentary popcorn. Additional wine and cheese plates will be available for purchase. No outside food or alcoholic beverages permitted. $15–25/pp; more info and tickets at AlmaRosaWinery.com.
5:30–6:30pm at Zaca Mesa Winery
6pm at The Food Liaison, Carpinteria The Food Liaison’s Pastry Chef Olivia Beckman proves to be a rising force in the local pastry scene. Sip champagne and nibble on appetizers while Chef Olivia teaches you how to create beautiful desserts at home. $95/pp; TheFoodLiaison.com.
3–7pm in downtown Solvang Stroll through the lively streets of Solvang while tasting at five participating wine or beer tasting rooms. $20 includes the tastings, a specialty logo glass and a map to help you navigate your way through all the fun. For more information or to purchase tickets, visit SolvangThirdWednesday.com.
4:30pm at the Bernat Vineyard, Los Olivos Dine with the winemaker, chef and farmer at the annual farm-to-table event in Los Olivos. Every year owners of the Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café welcome guests to their family property to share their Bernat wines and Café Farm. $125/pp; tickets and more info at WineMerchantCafe.com.
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Edible Santa Barbara Supper Club at Ca’Dario Cucina Italiana
Alma Rosa Test Kitchen
Farmers Market Cooking Demos
10am–5pm at Babcock Winery, Lompoc Join Babcock at the winery for an al fresco fabulous multi-dealer vintage market. Meet a specially curated group of dealers while you enjoy tacos, wine and live music. Tina & The Graceland Exiles are back by popular demand, performing Sunday afternoon. Free to attend; wine and food available for purchase. More info at BabcockWinery.com.
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6pm at 250 Storke Rd., Suite B, Goleta Join us for an August Harvest Dinner at Ca’Dario’s newest restaurant, Cucina Italiana. Chef Dario Furlati will treat us to traditional Italian specialties, paired with August Ridge Italian varietals. For details and to purchase tickets, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com.
6:30pm–9:30pm, Alma Rosa Estate Ranch House Join Alma Rosa and guest chef Jake O. Francis, from Valley Piggery, for an intimate 10-person dining experience. Eight courses of sublime, seasonal, locally sourced food paired with Alma Rosa’s tantalizing wines all expressing the essence of the Sta. Rita Hills. For info, visit AlmaRosaWinery.com.
10am, 11am and noon at the SB Farmers Market, at corner of Cota and Santa Barbara St. Sponsored by Sansum Clinic, the market will feature live cooking demonstrations by registered dietician Gerri French and our favorite local chefs. You’ll learn tips and techniques for preparing healthy, seasonal offerings at the market.
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Foxen Canyon Wine Trail Loop
Taste and Sounds of Old Town
Wine Talk Wednesdays
10:30am–6pm on the Santa Maria Wine Trolley
1–4pm on Hollister Ave. in Old Town Goleta
S E PT E MBER
Every Sat and Sun through October 14, this route takes approximately one hour starting at the Radisson Hotel and allows passengers to step on and off at their convenience. $18 at trolley or $10 in advance; for more info, visit SantaMariaValley.com.
Discover the flavors of Old Town Goleta. Food, cider, wine, beer and live music. Explore the wide variety of cuisine offered by local restaurants by tasting samples and perusing vendor booths, and visiting the beer and wine garden. Tickets at GoletaTaste.com.
6:30pm– 8:30pm Alma Rosa is pleased to offer a new informational series, Wine Talk Wednesdays on the Fourth Wednesday of Every Month. Each session will include two speakers discussing different aspects of the local wine industry. To RSVP to the complimentary event, please email email@example.com.
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SA NTA BARBA R A COUNT Y
E AT DRINK LOC AL GUIDE Santa Barbara County has its own unique food tradition and lifestyle. We’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants, bakeries, food producers and specialty retail shops that contribute to the distinctively Santa Barbara experience. From Ballard to Carpinteria, and from catering to wine tasting, our Guide will help you find what you are looking for and more.
Farms & Ranches Earthtrine Farm Known by some as the “Organic Alchemist,” Robert “BD” Dautch and his family have been farming for nearly 40 years. Famous for their culinary herbs, Earthtrine is home to more than 20 varieties of flavorful herbs and a wide selection of organic salad greens, bitter greens, assorted fruits and vegetables. Certified Organic by CCOF. Find Earthtrine Farm produce at the Sat and Tue Santa Barbara Farmers Markets and on Sun in Ojai.
Fairview Gardens 805 967-7369 FairviewGardens.org The Center for Urban Agriculture at Fairview Gardens is a non-profit educational facility situated on a 100-yearold working organic farm in the heart of the good land, Goleta, California. Established in 1997, the non-profit preserves and operates Fairview Gardens as a working organic farm that nurtures the spirit through educational programs and public activities at the farm, building connections between community, food and nature.
Jimenez Family Farm 805 688-0597 JimenezFamilyFarm.com Small family-run local farm specializes in sustainably grown food and their famous handmade pies, quiches and small-batch preserves. Visit them at the farmers market to purchase produce, pies, jams and naturally fed and farm-raised rabbit, lamb, pork, goat and poultry.
Rancho San Julian 805 729-3303 RSJBeef.com; TheRanchTable.com Nestled in the heart of Santa Barbara County, Rancho San Julian has the distinction of being one of the last, great Spanish-Mexican land grants that remains in the family of the original grantee. Cattle are all born and raised on Rancho San Julian, never fed corn or soy, and are 100% grass-fed. Find RSJ at the Santa Barbara Farmers Market, Sat 8:30am–1pm on the corner of Cota St. and Santa Barbara St. Also offering seasonal events and workshops on the ranch; visit TheRanchTable.com for full schedule. 74 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Belmond El Encanto
805 686-9312 WinfieldFarm.us
800 Alvarado Place, Santa Barbara, 805 770-3530 Belmond.com/ElEncanto
Taste the magic of Winfield Mangalitsa! Mangalitsa ground pork (the real hamburger) and hickory smoked bacon are now featured in the Larder Meat Company’s Larder Club meat box, delivered monthly throughout California (sign up at http://www.lardermeatco.com). You can also order through our Mangalitsa Market on the Winfield Farm website—please call first! Follow us on Facebook (WinfieldFarmBuellton), Twitter (@ WinfieldFarm.us) and Instagram (Winfield_Farm).
Dine in the elegant Dining Room or delight in a romantic dinner under the stars on The Terrace. An innovative menu presented by Chef Johan Denizot offers contemporary California-coastal cuisine, complemented with gracious service and a side of stunning Santa Barbara views. Open 7am–10pm daily.
Food & Restaurants Backyard Bowls 5668 Calle Real, Goleta, 805 770-2730 3849 State St. Santa Barbara, 805 569-0011 331 Motor Way, Santa Barbara, 805 845-5379 BackyardBowls.com Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.
Ballard Inn & Gathering Table 2436 Baseline Ave., Ballard, 805 688-7770 BallardInn.com Elegant accommodations, attentive staff and awardwinning cuisine make the Ballard Inn & Gathering Table one of the most sought-after small luxury inns in the Santa Barbara Wine Country.
Barbareño 205 W. Canon Perdido St., Santa Barbara 805 963-9591 Barbareno.com Offering a casual approach to the classic California tavern, highlighting the traditions and specialties of the Central Coast and its many outstanding purveyors. Sit inside and enjoy the enticing atmosphere of an open kitchen, or outside on the patio alongside the Santa Maria grill. Dinner nightly 5–9:30pm; barbecue lunch Thu–Fri 11:30am–2pm; closed Tue.
Bluewater Grill 15 E. Cabrillo Blvd., Santa Barbara, 805 845-5121 BluewaterGrill.com Come in and get hooked on the best in fresh, sustainable seafood. Enjoy a waterfront patio, full bar, happy hour, extensive local wine selection and the best harbor view in Santa Barbara. Open 11am–9pm Sun– Thu, 11am–10pm Fri–Sat.
Bob’s Well Bread 550 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-3000 BobsWellBread.com Making bread the old-fashioned way: handcrafted in small batches with the finest ingredients and baked to perfection in a custom-built stone-deck oven. Drop in to taste what visitors and journalists are raving about as “worth the drive”—signature Pain au Levain, award-winning artisanal breads, croissants and specialty pastries. All-day menu of made-to-order breakfast, lunch and weekly special dishes. Indoor-outdoor picturesque café. Thu–Mon 7am–6pm. Café closes at 3pm. Closed Tue and Wed.
Bouchon 9 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 730-1160 BouchonSantaBarbara.com Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “as-freshand-as-local-as-possible” approach. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly 5–10pm.
Bragg Live Foods Bragg.com Founded in 1912 by Dr. Paul C. Bragg and now run by his daughter Dr. Patricia Bragg in Goleta, Bragg Live Food Products offers organic and natural health products and publishes self-health books. Available locally at Fairview Gardens’ Farm Stand, Lassen’s, Gladden and Sons, Tri-County Produce, Whole Foods Market, Lazy Acres and in the health section of your neighborhood grocery store.
Bree’Osh 1150 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-2500 Breeosh.com Bree’Osh is a French artisan bakery café specializing in sweet and savory brioche bread made with traditional sourdough. Featuring local, organic, high-quality ingredients. Open Wed–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat–Sun 7am–2pm. Closed Mon–Tue. Open daily 7am–2pm.
Ca’ Dario 37 E. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 884-9419 38 W. Victoria St. (inside the Santa Barbara Public Market), 805 884-9419 250 Storke Rd., Goleta, 805 884-9419 CaDario.net Chef Dario Furlati’s flagship eatery offers a fine Italian dining experience featuring authentic recipes made with fresh, local ingredients. Handmade pastas, local seafood, weekly farmers market specials and an extensive Italian wine list. Located in the heart of the downtown Arts District. Serving lunch and dinner Sun–Thu 11:30am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm. Ca'Dario Pizzeria in the Public Market offers a casual, urban atmosphere to enjoy authentic pizzas, salads and appetizers. Open daily 11am–9pm. Ca' Dario Cucina Italiana in Goleta is open Mon–Sat 11am-9pm.
Central Coast Specialty Foods 115 E. College Ave., Ste. 10, Lompoc 805 717-7675 CentralCoastSpecialtyFoods.com High-quality local & imported specialty foods, including charcuterie, gourmet cheeses, a full-service deli, exotic meats (alligator, wild boar, bison and more), specialty foods from around the world, and local beers and wines. Catering available; small intimate affairs to large special events. Open Mon–Wed 10am–6pm, Thu–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–6pm and Sun 10am–4pm.
Chocolate Maya 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara, 805 965-5956 ChocolateMaya.com Chocolate Maya handmade chocolate confections: a variety of velvety truffles and chocolate-dipped temptations that are made from the highest-quality chocolate (Valrhona, Felchlin, Mesocacao including some small bean-to-bar artisans couverture) fresh local ingredients and some exotic findings from their travels overseas.
Chooket 2018 Cliff Dr., Santa Barbara, 805 845-5519 Chooket.com Chooket is a French bakery specializing in individual fine pastries, cakes of French traditions, catering events and weddings. This pretty boutique is the kingdom of cream puffs, eclairs, fresh fruit tarts and offers seasonal menus. Artisan bakery, all treats are made on site and only with fresh ingredients. Open Tue–Sat 10am–6pm. Closed Sun–Mon.
Corazón Cocina 38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-0282 CorazonCocinaSB.com Located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market, offering
homemade, local, unique and fresh cocina Mexicana. Join Chef Ramón Velazquez for fresh ceviches, mouthwatering tacos and homemade agua frescas. Open daily 11am–9pm.
The Food Liaison 1033 Casitas Pass Rd., Carpinteria, 805 200-3030 TheFoodLiaison.com Catering. Counter. Classes. Utilizing many locally grown organic ingredients, enjoy daily rotating entrées and soups, seasonal menu and gourmet salad bar. Corporate and event catering since 2013. Sign up for cooking classes online. Lunch counter Mon–Fri 11am–3pm.
Frankland’s Crab & Co. 1295 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 845-9310 FranklandsCrabandCompany.com A modern American crab shack now open at the Historic Montecito Inn. Featuring fresh, local seafood served raw, steamed, fried, peel and eat, on sandwiches and in salads. Open daily 11am–10pm.
Giannfranco’s Trattoria 666 Linden Ave., Carpinteria, 805 684-0720 Giannfrancos.com
Lazy Acres 302 Meigs Rd., Santa Barbara, 805 564-4410 LazyAcres.com Santa Barbara’s best source for wholesome, natural and organic foods and products with real people dedicated to providing unmatched personal service. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm, Sun 7am–10pm.
The Little Door SB 129 E. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara, 805 560-8002 TheLittleDoorSB.com Featuring a charming outdoor patio overlooking the Spanish Colonial architecture of the renowned Courthouse. Offers a magical ambiance and sense of communion around the table. Executive chef Oscar Ledesma draws inspiration from the farmers market and French Mediterranean flavors to accentuate his contemporary American fare. Open Wed–Thur 5–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm, Sun 11am–3pm; Happy Hour 4:30–6:30pm.
McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams 728 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 324-4402 McConnells.com
Experience authentic Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and family-operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties. Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm; closed Tue.
McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams, founded in Santa Barbara in 1949, is now in its third generation of family ownership. They make their ice creams as they always have: from scratch, using Central Coast, grass-grazed milk, cream and the finest local, sustainable and organic ingredients from partner farms, artisans and purveyors they’ve worked with for decades. No preservatives. No stabilizers. No additives. Ever. A 70-year sweet legacy of keeping it real.
Here’s the Scoop
1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-7020 ScoopSB.com Here’s the Scoop is a local, family-owned business that makes traditional Italian gelato flavors like Stracciatella and Pistachio. Their seasonal farmers market sorbets use local, organic farm-fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs. Sorbets are non-dairy, organic and vegan. Mon–Thu 1–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–9pm.
Hilton Garden Inn and Valle Eatery & Bar 1201 North H. St., Lompoc, 805 735-1880 HGILompoc.com Offering 156 contemporary and spacious rooms, large and elegantly appointed suites, premium fiber Internet access, event space and full service restaurant just steps away from Santa Barbara Wine Country. Local Executive Chef, Conrad Gonzales, combines big city flavors with seasonal local produce and acclaimed wines from local vintners. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Offering a full service bar featuring Santa Barbara County wine and beer from California.
805 568-1896 MichaelsCateringSB.com Offering classic and modern cuisine for all your occasions, Chef Michael Hutchings has the culinary expertise and experience to provide your guests with a memorable dining experience. French, Italian, Thai, American and a host of other great cuisines can grace your table. The possibilities are endless. Enjoy your next party and have a professional chef take all the worry out of catering.
Montecito Country Mart 1016 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-9664 MontecitoCountryMart.com The Montecito Country Mart, built in 1964, has recently been renovated and preserved, with its original barber shop, post office, market, old-fashioned toy store, as well as Rori’s Ice Cream and Merci to Go artisan food shop. Independent boutique shops include Mate Gallery, Kendall Conrad, Calypso, Malia Mills, Hudson Grace, James Perse and Space NK Apothecary. Shops open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun 10am–5pm.
The Hitching Post II
Montecito Village Grocery
406 E. Hwy. 246, Buellton, 805 688-0676 HitchingPost2.com
1482 E. Valley Rd., Montecito, 805 969-1112 MontecitoGrocery.com
A favorite of locals and visitors since 1986. Serving wood-grilled fare, prepared in the regional barbecue tradition, along with their highly regarded Hitching Post Wines. Casual and relaxed setting.
Offering local and organic produce, full service butcher and deli, gourmet cheese, chef prepared dishes, amazing wines and craft beers. Great selection of non-dairy, gluten free, vegetarian and vegan products. Convenient parking and friendly staff. Open daily 7am–8pm.
Il Fustino 3401 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-3521 38 W. Victoria St. (located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market), 805 845-4995 ilFustino.com Il Fustino is Santa Barbara’s first and finest olive oil and vinegar tasting room. Il Fustino purveys only the finest and freshest olive oils, all grown and milled in California. They also provide an unparalleled selection of artisan vinegars.
Olive Hill Farm 2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos, 805 693-0700 OliveHillFarm.com Specializing in local olive oils, flavored oils and balsamic vinegars as well as many locally produced food products. Olive oil and vinegar tastings with fresh local bread available. Open daily 11am–5pm.
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Pico at The General Store
Solvang Olive Company
Babcock Winery & Vineyards
458 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1122 LosAlamosGeneralStore.com
1578 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 213-1399 SolvangOliveCo.com
5175 E. Hwy. 246, Lompoc, 805 736-1455 BabcockWinery.com
Pico at the Los Alamos General Store brings a culinary, wine and shopping experience to “Little LA” in the heart of Santa Barbara’s Wine Country. Chef Drew Terp offers a menu of approachable California cuisine sourced from locally-farmed, seasonal ingredients. Open Tue–Thu 3–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–9pm; Happy Hour 4–5pm.
Solvang Olive features locally grown olive oils, fruit and balsamic vinegar and hand-crafted gourmet olives. The Solvang store also carries olive oil beauty products, tableware and cooking ingredients created by Californian artisans. Tasting room open Wed–Thu 10am–4pm, Fri–Sun 9am–5pm.
Pig & Butter 323 362-6354 PigAndButter.com
Succulent Café Wine Charcuterie 1555 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 691-9444 SucculentCafe.com
Plow to Porch
Comfort food with a twist, prepared with seasonal and local farm-fresh ingredients. The best charcuterie plates around feature farm-fresh cheese, house-made jam, pickled vegetables, nuts and fruit. Great local wine, craft beer and signature cocktails. Open Mon, Wed–Fri 10am–9pm, Sat–Sun 8:30am–9pm; Happy Hour 3–5pm; Closed Tuesday.
805 895-7171 PlowToPorch.com
The Wine Cask
Pig & Butter focuses on both quality and merging flavors to make unique, delectable dishes. All dishes are crafted with meticulousness and love. Offering catering, chef’s tables and cooking classes.
Plow to Porch Organics is a local organic/pesticide-free produce and grocery delivery service to members who subscribe. They simplify the purchase of local fresh organic produce and other organic, local foods in order to inspire good nutrition, support local farmers, protect the environment and make eating healthy food fun!
Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro 3315 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 569-2400 1324 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 892-2800 RenaudsBakery.com
A family owned and operated café featuring scratch cooking. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner for the past 12 years. Award-winning salad bar, bakery, soup, hot and cold prepared foods, coffee and tea bar and excellent selection of wines by the glass. Cozy atmosphere, dog friendly patio. Open Mon–Sat 7–9pm, Sun 8am–8pm.
Wine & Beer 250 Industrial Way A, Buellton, 805 688-9092 AlmaRosaWinery.com
Andrew Murray Vineyards 5249 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos, 805 686-9604 AndrewMurrayVineyards.com Andrew Murray, a grape-growing pioneer and Rhône varietal visionary in Santa Barbara County, founded his winery in 1990. Andrew and his team look forward to sharing the AMV experience with you at their stunning Estate Winery and Visitor Center along Foxen Canyon Road. Tasting room open daily 10:30am–5:30pm.
Au Bon Climat
610 N. H St., Lompoc, 805 819-0829 Scratch-Kitchen.com
813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-7999 AuBonClimat.com
With a wealth of local and seasonal produce and local wines, Scratch Kitchen aims to highlight all the best culinary elements of the Lompoc and Santa Ynez Valleys. Open for lunch and dinner Tue–Sat 11am–9pm, brunch Sun 10am–2pm and Sun dinner 5pm–9pm.
The tasting room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library are known for world-class Chardonnays and Pinots. Jim Clendenen has been making wines of vision and character for over 30 years, along with other varietals. Amazing lineup of current releases and library wines available. Tasting room open Mon–Fri noon–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am–6pm.
Sirona Cleanse The Sirona Cleanse is a mild and easy to follow cleanse that achieves optimum results. Prepared, delicious alkalizing whole foods and juices that are 100% vegan and completely gluten free delivered to your door. Offering 3-day, 5-day and custom programs. SironaCleanse.com
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Buttonwood Farm Winery In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Tasting room open daily 11am–5pm.
Alma Rosa wines express the distinctive spirit and character of the soils, sun exposure, fog, cooling winds and over four decades of experience in this beautiful Sta. Rita Hills sub-region of Santa Barbara wine country. Tasting room open Fri–Sun 11am–5:30pm; Mon–Thur noon–5:30pm.
24 W. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 962-6611 TheSavoyCafe.com
Great beer. Impeccable selection. Great fun. Adventurous beer drinkers can discover unique, hardto-find craft beers, ciders and special projects—on tap or in bottle. Stay to have a bite from Valle Fresh’s tacos and tapas menu. Thu 4–8pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm, Sun noon–6pm.
The Wine Cask Restaurant features the freshest local ingredients, the best wine list in town and seasonal signature cocktails. They offer fine dining in their exquisite Gold Room and casual dining in the courtyard and at their Intermezzo bar. Lunch: Tue–Fri 11:30am– 3pm. Dinner: Tue–Sun from 5:30pm. Last seating at 9pm Sun–Thu and at 10pm Fri–Sat.
Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market
Savoy Café & Deli
380 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1911 BabisBeerEmporium.com
1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang, 805 688-3032 ButtonwoodWinery.com
Alma Rosa Winery
Six markets, six days a week. Schedule on page 71.
Babi’s Beer Emporium
813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 966-9463 WineCask.com
Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for breakfast and lunch. Open Mon–Sat 7am–5pm; Sun 7am–3pm.
805 962-5354 SBFarmersMarket.org
A passion for revolutionary farming and conservation continue to define this family-owned Sta. Rita Hills winery. Stunning single-vineyard Pinot Noirs are showcased alongside acclaimed Chardonnays and other varietals. Chill in the super soulful tasting room filled with vintage art and eclectic treasures. Tasting room open daily 11am–5:30pm.
August Ridge Vineyards 5 E. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 770-8442 AugustRidge.com August Ridge crafts wine that combines the spirit of California with the restrained, classic elegance of wines from northern and central Italy. Distinctive wines from the Paso Robles region to be opened as you gather for a meal, surrounded by friends, family and loved ones. Tasting room open Sun–Mon, Wed–Thu noon–7pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm. Happy Hour Mon and Wed 3–6pm. Closed Tuesday.
Cambria Estate Winery 5475 Chardonnay Ln., Santa Maria, 805 938-7318 CambriaWines.com Family-owned, sustainably farmed estate winery. Visit and experience the flavors of the Santa Maria Bench. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Viognier and Syrah. Open daily 10am–5pm.
Casa Dumetz 388 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1900 CasaDumetzWines.com A boutique winery specializing in Rhône varietals crafted with premier Santa Barbara County fruit. Their wines are sold almost exclusively at their tasting room in historic Los Alamos and through their wine club. Open Thu noon–7pm; Fri–Sat 11am–7pm; Sun 11–6pm, Mon noon–4pm. Vineyard tours and barrel sampling available by appointment.
Dreamcôte 2933 San Marcos Ave., Los Olivos, 805 691-1200 DreamcoteWines.com Dreamcôte strives to produce 600 cases of delicious, fruit-forward wines—fresh and juicy as the day they were picked. The tasting room is casual, fun and all welcoming. Come taste a unique selection of craft wines plus hard apple ciders alongside fun flavored popcorn. Open Thu–Mon 11am–5pm.
Foxen Vineyard & Winery 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-4251 FoxenVineyard.com The Foxen Boys’ winery and tasting room features Burgundian and Rhône-style wines. Visit the historic shack “Foxen 7200” for Italian and Bordeaux-style wines. Picnic tables and scenic views at both locations. Open 11am–4pm daily.
116 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara 805 880-3364 LamaDog.com
18 W. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara 805 962-5353 SavoyWinesSB.weebly.com
1470 E. Valley Rd., Montecito 805 969-4977
Craft beer taproom and bottle shop located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Open Sun–Wed 11:30am–10pm, Thu 11:30am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. @lamadog
Locally owned and operated, Savoy Wines is Santa Barbara’s go-to wine shop. Boasting an extensive local and import selection, the shop offers one-ofa-kind ambiance, with knowledgeable, friendly and outgoing staff to assist you in finding that perfect bottle, in a relaxed vibe, smack dab in the middle of downtown Santa Barbara. Open Mon–Sat 11am–7pm, Sun noon–6pm.
Longoria Wines 415 E. Chestnut Ave., Lompoc, 866-759-4637 LongoriaWine.com Longoria Wines is a small family-owned winery with over three decades of producing acclaimed artisanal wines from some of the finest vineyards in Santa Barbara County. Enjoy a tasting or a glass of wine in the tasting room or lounge of the restored historic JM Club at their new winery facility in Lompoc, open daily 11am–4:30pm.
Margerum Wine Company 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-8435 59 Industrial Way, Buellton, 805 686-8500 MargerumWines.com Located in the historic El Paseo complex, Margerum offers two venues for tasting in Downtown Santa Barbara. Enjoy a tasting (or a glass) of handcrafted, small production Margerum and Barden wines sourced from top vineyards around Santa Barbara County. Open Mon–Wed noon–5pm, Thu–Sun noon–6pm. Margerum also now offers tasting at their winery on Industrial Way in Buellton. Taste Margerum and Barden releases, sample wine from tank or barrel and tour the winery. Open Sat–Sun noon–5pm.
Martian Ranch & Vineyard 9110 Alisos Canyon Rd., Los Alamos 805 344-1804 MartianVineyard.com The Martian Ranch tasting room is open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Taste their estate-grown biodynamically farmed wines for an out-of-this-world experience! Winery tours daily; vineyard tours on the weekends. Enjoy wines by the glass, bocce court, horseshoe pit and dog-friendly picnic areas. Open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Mon and Tues by appointment only.
Melville Vineyards & Winery 120 State St. Suite C, Santa Barbara 805 770-7952 5185 E Hwy. 246, Lompoc, 805 735-7030 MelvilleWinery.com Located in the Hotel Californian at the edge of the Funk Zone, the Melville Tasting Room offers a chic environment to enjoy small bites, a glass of sparkling wine or full tasting flight. Open Daily Sun–Thu noon–7pm, Fri–Sat noon–-8pm. Visit the vineyard and tasting room in Lompoc, Sun–Thu 11am–4pm, Fri–Sat 11am–5pm.
Riverbench Vineyard & Winery 137 Anacapa St., Ste. C., Santa Barbara 805 324-4100 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-8340 Riverbench.com Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara. Open in Santa Barbara 11am–6pm daily. Open in Santa Maria 10am–4pm daily.
Telegraph Brewing Co. 418 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 963-5018 TelegraphBrewing.com
Tecolote Bookstore is an independent bookstore located in the upper village of Montecito. Open Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–5pm; closed Sun.
Professional Services American Riviera Bank 525 San Ysidro Rd., Montecito, 805-335-8110 AmericanRivieraBank.com 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5942 AmericanRivieraBank.com
Handcrafting unique American ales that embrace the heritage of California’s early brewing pioneers and use as many locally grown ingredients as possible. Visit the tasting room, open Tue–Thu 3–9pm; Fri–Sat 2–10pm; Sun 1–7pm. Telegraph beer is available at many restaurants and grocery stores in Santa Barbara County and throughout California.
Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Montecito branch open Mon–Thu 9am–5pm; Fri 9am–5:30pm. Santa Barbara branch open Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm.
The Wine Shepherd
The Foodbank of Santa Barbara County
30 E. Ortega St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-1012 WineShepherdSB.com The Wine Shepherd is a cozy wine bar and retail shop featuring local and international wines with a focus on rare, esoteric and old vintage bottles. Located next to The Black Sheep Restaurant in Santa Barbara’s Presidio neighborhood. Open Tue–Sun noon–10pm.
Zaca Mesa Winery
805 967-5741 FoodbankSBC.org Working every day to move people from hunger into health. The mission of the Foodbank is to provide nourishment to those in need by acquiring and distributing safe nutritious foods via local agencies and providing education to solve hunger and nutrition problems in Santa Barbara County.
6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos 805 688-9339 ZacaMesa.com
On Q Financial
Since 1973, Zaca Mesa Winery has crafted distinctive wines from their unique mesa-top vineyard. As an early pioneer of the region, they now have 150 acres planted, specializing in the production of estate-grown Rhônestyle wines. Tasting room and picnic area open daily 10am–4pm. Call for more information on winery tours and private event space.
Since 2013, On Q Financial’s goal has been to ensure the mortgage process is streamlined and smooth for every client. Their team even works closely with community partners to provide homebuyers’ workshops to the Santa Barbara community. They are ready to help you purchase a home or refinance your existing home loans—in Santa Barbara and beyond.
Specialty Retail Grapeseed Company 120 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara 4193 Carpinteria Ave. #6, Carpinteria 805 456-3655 TheGrapeseedCompany.com The Grapeseed Company creates botanical spa and skin care products handcrafted from the byproduct of wine plus antioxidant-rich local and organic ingredients. Open in Santa Barbara noon–8pm daily and in Carpinteria Mon–Fri 10:30am–5:30pm, Sat noon–5pm.
R&D los olivos 2446 Alamo Pintado Avenue, Los Olivos 505 999-7752 RandDlosolivos.com R&D los olivos offers an ever-changing curated collection of fine jewelry, art and gifts handmade by artisans. Jewels and treasures for every day, located in Los Olivos, the heart of Santa Barbara wine country. Featuring Diane Dorsey Jewelry, DianeDorsey.com.
1332 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-0694 OnQFinancial.com
SBCC Foundation 805 730-4401 SBCCFoundation.org The SBCC Foundation was established in 1976 to provide Santa Barbara City College with private philanthropic support. The foundation acts in partnership with the college and bridges the gap between available public funding and institutional need, as determined by the college leadership. The SBCC Foundation provides more than $4 million annually for student success programs, scholarships, book grants and other critical needs of the college in order to support SBCC students as they prepare for careers, transfer to four-year universities and pursue lifelong learning goals.
Santa Barbara–Tree Farm CalAtlanticHomes.com Brand new homes in the foothills of Santa Barbara County in a 26-acre setting.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com SUMMER 2018 | 77
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Don’t-Miss Dish Photos & words by Liz Dodder
Sourdough Brioche Loaf at
Bree’osh Café Montecito
Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). CaliCoastWineCountry.com 80 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA SUMMER 2018
Bread belongs to France. No other place in the world can claim the flaky and chewy perfection of a croissant, a baguette and brioche. Here in Montecito, French baker Pierre-Yves Henry and his wife, Nelly Mousseau, opened their own little piece of France, giving us a slice of that perfection for breakfast and lunch five days a week. For Henry, naturally fermented brioche is the only kind to make. That means sourcing local ingredients, encouraging wild yeasts to interact with the dough and exercising tons of patience during a long, slow fermentation—about three days per batch. The benefits? Tastier, softer, less sugar, more probiotics, less acidity and easier to digest. To make the sourdough starter, he stays as local as possible: Blue Ridge honey from Ojai wildflowers, plum or pear juice from The Farm Cart in Carpinteria or the Montecito farmers market along with organic malted flour from California. Montecito plums make the best starter; they are the plumpest and juiciest Henry’s ever had. Creating a wild sourdough starter involves feeding, stirring, kneading and waiting, so Henry recommends getting the starter from him if you want to make your own sourdough. Just give him a day or so notice, then pick up the starter on the day you want to make the loaf. To make 2 loaves, combine 500 grams flour, 300 grams eggs (about 6 eggs), 45 grams sugar, 10 grams salt, 100 grams sourdough starter and 20 grams yeast. Mix until consistent. You will see strings in the dough and it will come off the edge of the bowl. Beat 250 grams softened butter into dough and mix for 4–5 minutes. Wrap the dough and store in refrigerator for 8–10 hours. Then divide into 2 parts and put into buttered loaf pans. Let them rise for 2 hours in a warm area. Finally, put an egg wash on top and score with a knife, then bake at 350° for 25–30 minutes, or until browned.
WHAT MATTERS IS ON THE INSIDE S ince the 1970’s
has pioneered the cultivation of Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara County through sustainability and organic farming.
Visit us today to experience the expression of our passion for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown locally in the Sta. Rita Hills, over 45 years in the making.
winery and vineyards
Open 7 Days a week
181 Industrial Way Suite C - Buellton, CA - 805.691.9395
Text the word “VISIT” to 805.944.1398