edible
ISSUE ISSUE 37 39 •• SPRING FALL 2018 18
Santa Barbara
Celebrating the Local Food & Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County
Harvest & Holiday ISSUE
Heirloom Green Corn Frittata and Her Cousins Earth to Table Mistaken Identity L O YA L T O L O C A L
CO Collections • Bettina • Caffe Luxxe • George • Hudson Grace • James Perse • Kendall Conrad • Little Alex’s Malia Mills • Merci • Montecito Barbers • Montecito Natural Foods • One Hour Martinizing • Panino’s • Poppy Store Pressed Juicery • Read n’ Post • Rori’s Artisanal Creamery • Space N.K. Apothecary • Toy Crazy • Union Bank • Vons COAST VILLAGE ROAD AND HOT SPRINGS
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WIL FERNANDE Z
CONR AD GONZ ALES
fall and Holiday page 30
Departments 6 Food for Thought
26 Edible Garden
by Krista Harris
Lavender, Rosemary and Sage by Joan S. Bolton
8 Small Bites 0 Eat and Drink Local 1 This Fall 13 In Season 14 Seasonal Recipes Mustard Whole Roasted Mustard Chicken with Vegetables Chicken Stock
20 Drinkable Landscape Spice Your Wine for Holiday Time by George Yatchisin
22 Local Food Artisans
page 14 2 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
STE VEN BROWN
Heirloom Green Corn by Liz Dodder
30 Global Local Cuisine The Bread Culture of France by Laura Booras
72 Event Calendar 74 Eat Drink Local Guide 80 The Last Sip Fall’s Don’t-Miss Dish by Liz Dodder
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fall and Holiday
35 Foodie by John Cox
42 Earth to Table by Leslie Westbrook
52 Frittata and Her Cousins
page 53
Recipes in This Issue
by Janice Cook Knight
Soups and Condiments
58 Mistaken Identity Mourvèdre/Graciano
18 Chicken Stock 31 French Onion Soup 14 Mustard
by Sonja Magdevski
66 Anticipation The Pleasures of the Holiday Farmers Markets
by Pascale Beale
Main Dishes 56 Cauliflower Kuku 53 Onion and Zucchini Frittata 55 Tortilla with Potatoes and Artichokes 69 Roasted Duck with Apples, Parsnips and Leeks 16 Whole Roasted Mustard Chicken with Vegetables 68 Wild Mushroom and Persimmon Ragout
Desserts 70 Pear Clafoutis ABOUT THE COVER
Heirloom Oaxacan Green Dent corn grown locally at the Center for Urban Agriculture at Fairview Gardens. Photo by Liz Dodder.
4 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
Beverages 21 Mission Mulled Wine
JOSHUA CURRY
Features
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 5
FOOD FOR THOUGHT This October will be our 10 annual Eat Local Challenge. I looked back at the 2009 issue that announced our first Eat Local Challenge and it was like strolling down memory lane. There was a tasting of San Marcos Farms honey (my pantry is never without the Wildflower honey), an announcement of the new Foxen Winery tasting room and a blurb about the Burger Bus (RIP). Nancy Oster wrote about honeybees and Fran Collin’s stunning photo of bees and honey on apples graced the cover.
STE VEN BROWN
th
I remember the day we shot the photos for Pascale Beale’s article and recipes for Thanksgiving. It was in the high 80s and we had the oven going all day. We sweated as we ate the hearty Celeriac Soup with Pancetta, Roasted Cornish Game Hens and Grand Marnier Stuffing, but it was still delicious (photo from that day above). The magazine was smaller then (48 pages, plus cover), but my thanks go out to advertisers like Alma Rosa, Backyard Bowls, Buttonwood, Hitching Post, Lazy Acres, Plow to Porch, Santa Barbara Farmers Market, Telegraph Brewing and Zaca Mesa who were with us then, and still are. And Janice Cook Knight kicked off our first Eat Local Challenge with her article “How to Eat Close to Home.” I love her statement from that article: “Practice asking your butcher, your fishmonger, your produce person, ‘Where did this come from?’” That is the essence of the Eat Local Challenge. Forget whether it’s a 100mile or a 200-mile radius or whether every last ingredient on your plate is local (although I still love to geek out on that sort of thing). If you spend the month of October questioning where your food comes from, I think you will find it an interesting exercise. To paraphrase my own words in my letter from the editor in 2009, I hope that the articles in this issue encourage you to try your own Eat Local Challenge or simply to seek out more of the many options for local food that Santa Barbara County offers. It’s a continuing source of inspiration to see the diversity of local foods being grown, harvested or produced here in our region, and I think you will find it an eye-opening experience to discover how easy and natural it is to eat local. This October I will be doing my 10th Eat Local Challenge (with, I hope, many of you). Drop me a line, send me an email, comment on our social media feeds and let me know if you are trying to eat local, too.
Krista Harris, Editor and Co-Publisher
We want to see and hear from you. Email us at info@ediblesantabarbara.com. Follow and tag us on Instagram @ediblesb and #ediblesb. 6 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
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SANTA BAR BAR A Member of Edible Communities
Edible Communities James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year (2011)
PUBLISHERS
Steven Brown & Krista Harris EDITOR
Krista Harris RECIPE EDITOR
Nancy Oster COPY EDITING & PROOFING
Doug Adrianson DESIGNER
Steven Brown ADVERTISING & EVENTS
Katie Hershfelt ads@ediblesantabarbara.com SOCIAL MEDIA
Jill Johnson
Contributors Pascale Beale Joan S. Bolton Laura Booras Fran Collin John Cox Joshua Curry Liz Dodder Wil Fernandez Janice Cook Knight Sonja Magdevski Carole Topalian Leslie A. Westbrook George Yatchisin Edible Santa Barbara® is published quarterly and distributed throughout Santa Barbara County. Subscription rate is $28 annually. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Publisher expressly disclaims all liability for any occurrence that may arise as a consequence of the use of any information or recipes. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
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Winemakers Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley.
Small Bites The Wine Next Door Hitching Post Wines Local food and local wine. And what better place to go for both of those than the Hitching Post 2 and now, right next door, the newly opened Hitching Post Wines. You may be quite familiar with Frank Ostini, chef and owner of the restaurant that Sideways made famous. But it’s the dynamic duo of Gray Hartley and Frank Ostini who bring us Hitching Post Wines, and in fact the two have been making wines in Santa Barbara County since 1979. Well known for their Pinot Noir, they also produce a dry rosé, Syrah and other blends 8 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
and varietals. Stop by the charming restored farmhouse and picnic grounds to taste their full lineup along with some rare older vintages and single-vineyard bottlings. The added bonus is that you can have lunch or food pairings along with your wine. The restaurant is shuttling over delicious burgers, French fries, grilled artichokes and grilled corn quesadillas, with more options coming soon from a vintage restored Airstream kitchen on wheels. Hitching Post Wines is located at 420 E. Highway 246, Buellton, and open Sun–Thu 11am–5pm and Fri–Sat 11am–8pm. Lunch is 11:30am–2:30pm. HitchingPost2.com
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at Hitching Post Wines on Sunday, Oct. 28, 3–6pm for an Edible Release Party. See EdibleSantaBarbara.com for more details.
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Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Santa Barbara’s Premier Destination Wine Shop.
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“Plenty of space for wine, no room for snobbery.”
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 9
e Santa Barba ibl ra Ed
eat & drink Local this fall
CHALLENGE OCTOBER 2018
Edible Santa Barbara is sponsoring an Eat Local Challenge for the month of October. The Challenge encourages people to take a personal pledge to eat and drink local products October 1–31. When you participate in the Eat Local Challenge, you’ll choose to eat only foods produced within a 100- or 150mile radius of your home, or within your region, or within your state. Decide if you are going to make any exceptions (such as for coffee, tea or spices), but try to stay as local as possible.
Participate Go to EdibleSantaBarbara.com and join the email newsletter. We have lots of ideas and information about how to access local food, cook with local ingredients and seek out and support local farmers, fishermen, food and beverage artisans. The Eat Local Challenge is a great way to encourage you to think about where your food comes from and to perhaps change the way you shop and the food you buy. You might start shopping more at the farmers market or at local farm stands. You might sign up for a local produce delivery service.
10 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
Local Produce
Beyond Produce
If you are participating in the Eat Local Challenge—and even if you’re not—now is a great time to seek out new local food products and to experience the wide variety of local produce that our area has to offer.
Eating local isn’t just about sourcing local fruits and vegetables. Try local meats and poultry, grass-fed beef, seafood, olive oil, nuts, raw milk, cheeses and butter, jams, preserves, bread and pasta. You can even find local convenience foods— jars of tomato sauce, salsa and peanut butter.
Fall is a great season to focus on buying more local produce. Many summer fruits and vegetables are still available and the cool-season produce is starting to come in as well. Whether you get hooked on shopping at the farmers market or you start seeking out local produce at the grocery store, co-op or farm stand, we have some tips to help you transition to a more local way of eating.
Buy What’s in Season Check our In Season list for what you will typically find at the farmers market or grocery store during the fall. Don’t waste your time looking for cherries or fava beans. Instead, enjoy the bounty of pomegranates, persimmons, apples and butternut squash. Join a community-supported agriculture (CSA) harvest subscription service which provides a weekly box of produce. See a listing of the CSAs located throughout Santa Barbara County on EdibleSantaBarbara.com.
Some grocery stores identify local products with a special label on the shelves. Keep an eye out for these. And it might be a good time to visit a small specialty shop where you can ask for local food items.
Local Seafood Look for and ask for local seafood at markets and restaurants. We have some of the best seafood around, and fall is a great time to enjoy the local season for ridgeback shrimp and spiny lobster. You can also find many local seafood delicacies year round, such as mussels and urchin.
Visit our Tasting Rooms
BARDEN Wines, 32 El Paseo Margerum Winery, 59 Industrial Way, Buellton (Sat/Sun) Coming Soon Margerum Tasting Room at the Hotel Californian www.margerumwines.com
Education is the first step. Just ask tomorrow’s top chefs... The SBCC Promise ensures that all recent local high school graduates have access to an outstanding and affordable education at Santa Barbara City College. All fees, books, and supplies are covered for two years.
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in Season this fall Fall Produce Artichokes Asparagus Avocados Basil Beans, green Blackberries Blueberries Brussels sprouts Cabbage Cantaloupe Celery Cherimoya Chiles Chives Cilantro Collards Corn Cucumber Dill Eggplant Fennel Figs Grapefruit Grapes Kiwi Lavender Limes Melons Mint Mustard greens Nectarines Onions, green bunching Papayas Peaches Peppers Persimmon Plums/Pluots Pomegranate Raspberries Squash, summer Strawberries Tangerines/Mandarins Tomatillo Tomatoes Turnips Watermelon
Year-Round Produce
Almonds, almond butter (harvested Aug/Sept)
Fall Seafood Mussels Ridgeback shrimp Rock fish Sardines Spiny lobster Swordfish White sea bass Yellowtail
Apples Arugula Beans, dried Beets Bok choy Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Chard Dandelion Dates
Year-Round Seafood
Garlic
Eggs Coffee Dairy
(harvested Sept/Oct) (harvested May/June)
Herbs
(Bay leaf, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, thyme)
Edible flowers Kale Leeks Lemons Lettuce Mushrooms Onions, bulb
(harvested May/June)
Oranges Pistachios, pistachio oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Potatoes Radish Raisins
Abalone (farmed) Black cod Clams Oysters Rock crab Sand dabs Urchin
Other Year-Round
(Regional raw milk, artisanal goat- and cow-milk cheeses, butters, curds, yogurts and spreads)
Fresh flowers Honey Olives, olive oil Meat
(Beef, chicken, duck, goat, rabbit, pork)
Potted plants/herbs Preserves Wheat
(Wheat berries, wheat flour, bread, pasta, pies produced from wheat grown locally)
(harvested Sept/Oct)
Spinach Sprouts Squash, winter
(harvested Sept/Oct)
Walnuts, walnut oil (harvested Sept/Oct)
Yams
(harvested Aug/Sept)
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 13
seasonal
Mustard
Recipes
Each spring I look at the hillsides all over Santa Barbara County blooming yellow with mustard flowers, and I think about making my own mustard condiment. Harvesting the tiny seeds is not easy, but it can be done. Wait until the plants are done flowering and collect the dried seed pods. You will then need to crush them to release the seeds and sift and winnow away the chaff until you are left with just the seeds. But it’s fall now, and if, like me, you’ve missed the opportunity to forage local mustard, you can still buy mustard seeds and make your own mustard condiment. Look for the whole seeds at grocery or specialty food stores: white/yellow (the mildest); brown (spicier); or black (hottest). You can also experiment with variations on the recipe, using different types of vinegar or adding minced garlic or herbs. Makes about 12 ounces
⁄ 2 cup mustard seeds (yellow, brown or black, or a combination) 1
Water 1
⁄ 3 cup apple cider vinegar or wine vinegar
2 teaspoons salt 3 tablespoons honey
Egg Salad Sandwich What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped
— Krista Harris
2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste
Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped onion • A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil or tarragon • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash of white wine vinegar Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional) Lettuce
JOSHUA CURRY
STEVEN BROWN
Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) Additional pickled vegetables (optional)
Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix
untilBARBARA incorporated but2018 with a still chunky texture. Taste and add 14 | EDIBLE SANTA FALL more seasoning or additions if needed.
Place the mustard seeds in a bowl and cover with water. Let soak at room temperature for at least 12 hours. Drain and discard the water. Add the mustard seeds, about half the vinegar, salt and honey to a blender and blend until smooth. Add more vinegar or water if needed to create a spreadable consistency. Transfer to a covered glass jar and refrigerate for at least a day to tame the initial bitterness. It will keep for quite a while if refrigerated.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 15
seasonal
Recipes
Whole Roasted Mustard Chicken with Vegetables Here’s an opportunity to use your homemade mustard. And if you are sourcing everything you eat this October locally, you’ll find it’s easier to come across a whole chicken at the farmers market than individual pieces. Roast chicken is classic comfort food and an easy meal when you combine it with some roasted vegetables. Makes 4–6 servings 1 whole farm-raised chicken (3–4 pounds) Salt Pepper 1
⁄ 4 cup mustard, preferably homemade
3 carrots, sliced into bite-sized chunks 1
⁄ 2 pound Brussels sprouts, cut in half
1 pound small potatoes, halved or quartered Olive oil Several sprigs of fresh thyme or rosemary 1 lemon, cut in half
Rub chicken with salt, pepper and mustard and let it come to room temperature. Preheat oven to 450°. Toss the carrots, Brussels sprouts and potatoes with olive oil, salt and pepper in a bowl until evenly coated.
Turn the temperature down to 375° and roast for another 40–45 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 165° and the juices run clear. Take out of the oven, place the chicken on a carving board and let it rest for 10–15 minutes. Carve the chicken and place all pieces on a serving platter. Drizzle with any pan juices and serve. Save any leftover pieces and the carcass to make stock.
JOSHUA CURRY
— Krista Harris
16 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
ROSMINAH BROWN
Place the vegetables in a large roasting pan and add the chicken on top with the herb sprigs and lemon halves. Add a little more salt and pepper on top so it is amply coated and roast at 450° for 20 minutes.
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seasonal
Recipes
Chicken Stock So many recipes call for chicken stock or broth, and homemade tastes so much better than what you can find in a box or can. It’s also a great way to make use of a leftover chicken carcass when you make roast chicken. Here’s a small-batch recipe that is easy, adaptable and hopefully will encourage you to make your own stock more often. Makes 3–4 cups 1 leftover chicken carcass from roast chicken 1 onion, cut into quarters Handful of other coarsely chopped vegetables such as carrots, celery, fennel, garlic (this is also an opportunity to use some carrot peels, onion peels or limp vegetables at the bottom of your produce bin) A few sprigs of herbs such as parsley or thyme and a few whole peppercorns (optional) 4 – 6 cups of water
Egg Salad Sandwich What to do with your beautiful onion-skin-dyed Easter eggs? First on the list must be a classic egg salad sandwich. You have many variations to choose from so you won’t get tired of them, even if you’ve made dozens of eggs. Makes 2 sandwiches 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons mayonnaise or 1 tablespoon mayonnaise and 1 tablespoon crème fraiche Salt and pepper, to taste
Additions: • A tablespoon of something crunchy, such as capers, chopped celery, chopped pickled vegetables, chopped radishes or chopped onion • A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, cilantro, chervil or tarragon • A dash of something tangy, such as lemon or lime juice, or the pickled juice or caper brine if you used either of those or a dash of white wine vinegar Bread (sliced bread, baguette, bagel, roll, croissant or slider bun) JOSHUA CURRY
Additional mayonnaise and/or mustard (optional) Additional pickled vegetables (optional) Lettuce Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, seasoning and additions and mix
until incorporated but with a still chunky texture. Taste and add 18 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL FALL 2018 2018 more seasoning or additions if needed.
Salt and pepper (optional)
Add the chicken carcass, onion and any other vegetables to a medium to large stockpot. Add the water, making sure it covers the ingredients by at least a few inches. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer for at least 2–3 hours. Strain into a container, pressing the solids to extract as much liquid as you can. Chill the stock and remove the solidified layer of fat. Season to taste with salt and pepper or use as is in your favorite recipe. — Krista Harris
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EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 19
DRINKABLE LANDSCAPE
Spice Your Wine for Holiday Time by George Yatchisin
S
o I’ve been told there are houses where sometimes, and I can’t even believe I’m writing this, some nights when not all the wine bottles get finished. Come winter, there’s something fun you can do with that leftover wine, if you don’t have the ability (or bankroll) to preserve it with Coravin system. For this issue’s recipe doesn’t take the best of wine; in fact, it’s best to make this with your favorite cheapest wine. For it’s that cold-enough time of year to do some mulling. There are numerous benefits to mulled wine: It allows you to use more of the citrus growing in your yard; it puts you in touch with a centuries-old tradition; it makes the house smell like a spice shop; it gives you an excuse to use those bottles of wine you can’t believe your friends brought over (you can heat up plonk with less fear you’re hurting good wine); it actually does taste yummy. First and foremost, mulled wine is structure much more than stricture. I will provide one possible recipe for you, with a couple of unusual twists, but do what pleases you. Some people add vanilla bean or extract, as they want more of a baked-good flavor. Some recipes, like the Scandinavian Glögg, ask you to float sliced almonds in the drink. Now, I like almonds, but I’m not interested in making a wine sundae. So, follow your taste.
20 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
Basically, all you need to do is start with this simple equation: wine + sweetener + spice + heat = mulled wine. Commence caroling. After all, a form of mulled wine mysteriously known as smoking bishop was so popular in Victorian England that the scared-straight Scrooge tells Bob Cratchit toward the end of A Christmas Carol, “I’ll raise your salary, and endeavour to assist your struggling family, and we will discuss your affairs this very afternoon over a bowl of smoking bishop, Bob!” Also note that while heated spiced wine is a tradition (actually going back to the ancient Greeks), most of those old recipes are a bit frightful. Even the ever-entertaining Professor Jerry Thomas, often thought of as the first modern bartender, has some perfectly putrid mulled wines in his classic The Bon Vivant’s Companion or How To Mix Drinks from the late 1800s. One of which begins, “Beat up the whites and the yolks of the [nine] eggs separately, the sugar with the yolks.” Wine omelet, here we come! Instead, our recipe calls for a bit of zip with the spice and a sweetener no Victorian could have imagined: agave nectar. The nectar not only makes this a bit more Californian/ Mexican, it also blends more fully than granulated sugar.
Mission Mulled Wine Makes 6–8 servings 3 ounces light agave nectar Juice of 2 oranges (larger)
A Trip to Italy , without the Jet Lag…
Juice of 1 lemon (smaller) 11 ⁄ 2 sticks cinnamon (2-inch sticks) 3 cloves, whole 3 allspice, whole 3 black peppercorns 6 dime-sized slices of fresh ginger 1 bottle (750 ml) red wine
Add all the ingredients except for the wine into a nonreactive pot. Let bubble over medium heat for 10 minutes, so the spices give up some of their essence to the juices. Turn heat to simmer and add the wine. Let heat gently—do not let it boil—for about 15 minutes (let it get to just above the temperature you will want to drink it). Strain into mugs. Feel free to garnish with cinnamon sticks or orange peels, if you want to be fancy about it.
I know all the arguments about it not really being better for you, but you’re adding it to alcohol, after all. This is no time to get high and mighty. The two off-the-beaten-mull ingredients, peppercorns and ginger, help give this drink a happy zippiness. The peppercorns add a tiny bit of heat, a bit of the back of the throat bite. In some ways, they just up your wine’s tannins for you. And that ginger, it gives sweet, heat and spice, so don’t leave it out. But whatever you do, don’t try to use powdered ginger. The straining part easily fishes out fresh ginger, but powdered ginger leaves a nasty slick on your fine potion. As for what wine to use, cheaper is fine. But even cheap wine doesn’t deserve to be cooked; you want to heat it gently. And since you’re going to put it through a series of tests— heat, spice, citrus—it’s better to use a heartier red wine varietal. Poor defenseless Pinot Noir would retire to its fainting couch with such treatment. Use a Syrah, or Rhone blend, or Cabernet or something similarly brawny. And yes, this really isn’t a cocktail in the slightest. But your fireplace will forgive you. (And if you really need some fortification, you can experiment with an added tumbler of some port or brandy. Not that this mix needs that.) George Yatchisin happily eats, drinks and writes in Santa Barbara. He blogs at GeorgeEats.com.
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EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 21
LOCAL FOOD ARTISANS
Heirloom Green Corn by Liz Dodder PHOTOGRAPHY LIZ DODDER
Conrad Gonzales (left) and Abel Basch harvesting their first crop of heirloom Oaxacan Green Dent corn.
C
hristmas has come early—this time in August. As I stand in the middle of an unruly, all-natural cornfield in Goleta, leaves waving wildly in the breeze, I witness two men peeling back the dried, yellowed husks of what looks like overripe corn. They are getting their first glimpse at heirloom green corn kernels they have planted earlier this year. The two friends are giddy, excitedly peering into their cob treasures and calling out the colors they find. They look like kids on Christmas morning. Emerald green, yellow gold, blood red, forest green and graygreen are some of the colors we find inside the whispery husks. These are the fruits of a new culinary experiment here in Santa Barbara County: planting Heirloom Oaxacan Green Dent corn seeds, an ancient corn of the Zapotec people of southern Mexico, 22 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
to see how well it can be cultivated here. It’s been grown there for centuries and is traditionally used to make green-flour tamales and other staples like tortillas, polenta or cornmeal for breading. Local culinary school buddies Conrad Gonzales and Abel Basch started this project with a mission to introduce new varieties of heirloom corn to Santa Barbara—those that we have never heard of or seen before—and to make homemade tortillas the traditional, sustainable way it’s been done in Oaxaca for hundreds of years. Born in Santa Barbara, Gonzalez is a fourth-generation Californian, with family roots in Mexico City. He’s been cooking in the area for over 15 years, then he went out on his own in 2014, now heading up Valle Eatery & Bar in Lompoc and Vallefresh
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Heirloom Oaxacan Green Dent corn is made into tortillas.
catering and taco shop in Los Alamos. He quickly became known around the county for his savory pork belly tacos and homemade tortillas. Abel Basch grew up in Los Angeles and came to Santa Barbara for culinary school—where the two friends met—then cooked in restaurants all over Santa Barbara before realizing his first love was growing food. And heirlooms are his thing. “Working with heirloom seeds like this is so amazing and interesting,” says Basch, who runs Abel’s Heirlooms and works with the Center for Urban Agriculture at Fairview Gardens. “Since heirloom seeds have kept their biodiversity, they naturally mutate and you get all these really cool colors. It’s a surprise every time you harvest.” Gonzales has always wanted his food creations to be a true fusion of his family’s Mexican culture and his Central Coast upbringing. He also wants his dishes to be organic, locally sustainable and true to their roots. Corn has been a sustainable crop in North and South America for a very long time. Learning to cultivate wild corn, then harvesting and preserving it for winter has built and sustained ancient peoples, cultures and empires across the Americas. “It just makes sense,” Gonzales explains, “for us to 24 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
plant this heirloom corn, harvest it and keep it to sustain us for winter here in Santa Barbara… I can offer 100% organic, sustainable (and GMO-free) tortillas for all my dishes. The way they are supposed to be made.” Gonzales knew his friend and colleague would be into it, and when he introduced the subject, Basch jumped at the chance. “If you get me the seeds, and promise to buy the entire yield from the crop, I’m in,” Basch told him. Gonzales already had the seeds picked out. Since then, Basch has been farming these and other heirloom varieties at Fairview Gardens, helping rejuvenate the historic farm, bringing new produce to the Santa Barbara Farmers Market with other heirlooms. Now they hope to yield 400–500 pounds of heirloom corn. And there is more heirloom corn planted in other locations in Santa Barbara County, so that Gonzales can explore the results in taste and yield. “Like grapes grown in different appellations in our area,” he says, “I believe we will be able to taste different terroir in the corn as well.” To harvest, the corn is hand-picked after the husks are dried and yellowed and the corn has become hard. The corn is then milled by hand to remove the kernels, and the kernels are cooked in a solution of water and lime calcium. After they rest for one night, the softened kernels are ground in a stone mortar and pestle until they become a wet paste. This is the masa. To make a tortilla, Gonzales rolls a small amount of pure masa into a ball, then flattens it (you can use a tortilla press) and grills each side on a griddle or cast-iron skillet until browned. The taste is earthy, dense, savory and meaty. It’s a deeper, more intense flavor than typical handmade tortillas, but also has a light note, just a little floral. This tortilla plays the starring role in a taco, instead of a mere delivery vessel for the fillings. This is the pure taste of ancient culinary culture: This tortilla is pure corn, no salt or other additions. And it’s better; heirloom corn has more nutrition, protein, flavor and variation than the modern corn that is widely available. “This is as close to historically accurate food as we can get, for a tortilla. And now, we can have an heirloom Santa Barbara tortilla,” Gonzales says with a smile. Basch reminds us we can also make green corn heirloom whiskey, as well as polenta, grits and fresh masa for sale to other cooks. Gonzales would also love to someday make tortillas, chips, tostadas and masa to sell to the public and restaurants. “A Valle Fresh heirloom tortilleria in Santa Barbara County… that would be awesome,” Gonzales says. This fall, Valley Eatery & Bar in Lompoc and Vallefresh in Los Alamos are offering a goat-cheese-stuffed, fried squash blossom taco, with green tomatillo sauce, pinquito beans, cotija cheese and avocado, served on the heirloom green corn tortilla. It’s a street taco with ancient roots. You don’t want to miss it. See The Last Bite on page 80 for details on this dish. Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). CaliCoastWineCountry.com
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EDIBLE GARDEN
Lavender, Rosemary and Sage by Joan S. Bolton
Left to right: Lavender, rosemary and sage.
L
avender, rosemary and sage are delightful crossover plants in the garden. These robust herbs are just as content to flourish alongside edibles as to mingle with ornamentals in the larger landscape. Some folks may not give a whit that the trio provide utility. But many of us prize their potent oils, leaves, stems, flowers and seeds for everything from seasoning dishes to flavoring vinegars and salad dressings, garnishing plates and providing the makings for potpourri, sachets and dried flower arrangements. All three are native to Mediterranean climates similar to ours and do well with little rain. In the garden, they attract honeybees, hummingbirds and beneficial insects; they contribute color and fragrance and they thrive in ordinary, dry soil.
26 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
When planting any of them amid ornamentals, avoid places where pesticides, herbicides or other chemicals might drift in, contaminating your harvest or harming beneficial insects— especially bees—that depend on their pollen and nectar.
Lavender This stalwart group of nearly 50 species and hundreds of hybrids ranges from petite, ankle-high plants to beefy shrubs spreading eight feet. Many bloom for months. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) generally bears the sweetest flavor and scent, and is tops for seasoning food and creating essential oils. It’s cultivated across Europe for perfume, soap and other aromatic products. Native to the Mediterranean (surprisingly, not England), English lavender forms clumps
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Rosemary
Trim rosemary as needed and cut back to control height a few times a year.
two to three feet tall and four to six feet wide. Slender spikes of soft purple flowers soar one to two feet above the foliage all summer long. Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia) is almost as sweet. A cross between English lavender and spike lavender (Lavandula latifolia), it contains a hint of less-desirable camphor. But it’s popular with growers because the difference is minor and plants grow faster, are more resistant to disease and yield substantially more oil, flowers and stems. Among the many lavandin varieties, dark purple Grosso is my favorite for heavy clay soil. It’s also the most common lavandin for extracting lavender oil. Grosso forms tight, silvery mounds two to three feet wide, with scads of tightly packed flower spikes shooting up and fanning out another two feet overhead during summer. Provence lavandin is nearly as durable and is a key ingredient in “herbes de Provence.” It’s a pastel player, with plump, intensely fragrant, pale purple flowers skimming the tops of each stem. Other landscape lavenders, including the bunny-eared Spanish and the nonstop-blooming French, contain more camphor. They’re perfectly fine for tossing on the barbecue or creating sachets and whatnot. But they lack the sweetness of English lavender and lavandin, and are not considered as tasty for pairing with food. Left unpruned, any lavender will become woody and break apart. But prune your plants annually and they should thrive for years. Cut off spent spikes in September, then shape or shear the remaining foliage into a tight ball. Retain an inch or two of green foliage or at least three leaf nodes below the cuts, rather than slicing deep into old wood that might not re-sprout. If you miss September pruning, wait until spring, as lavender detests being cut back over winter. Lavenders bloom on new stems each year, so prune before new growth appears. 28 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
You have two choices with rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis): tall, vigorous shrubs like Tuscan Blue, or aromatic, knee-high ground covers, such as Irene and Lockwood de Forest. Unlike lavender, there’s little difference in fragrance between varieties—perhaps because they’re all derived from the same Rosmarinus officinalis species. Plant rosemary this fall in gravelly to average soil and by next summer it’s likely to need watering only once a month. Pampering with fertilizer and regular irrigation encourages lanky, soft growth. However, if you garden in heavy clay, plant in raised beds or on mounds or a slope, to promote decent drainage. Provide plenty of room. Unless you happen upon a miniature, such as Roman Beauty, ground-cover rosemaries spread fast to four to six feet. Planted too close or let mound too high, rosemary becomes a woody mess. Even with proper spacing, in spring or summer plan to trim branches that layer on top of one another. But just like lavender, don’t cut into older wood, as it may re-sprout unevenly or not at all. If yours is in a confined space, consider growing an upright variety instead. You can trim off side branches at the base and control the height with a few haircuts a year. Do start early—wait until your rosemary is five feet tall and you’re likely to run into trouble with old wood. Rosemary does well in pots for only a year or two. Beyond that, let your plants root out in the garden.
Sage There are more than 900 pungent species of sage (Salvia), including a few native to our local hillsides. But the popular culinary seasoning is garden sage (Salvia officinalis), which forms two- to three-foot-tall, thick plants that bear aromatic, wooly leaves and pale purple flowers in late spring and summer. Look for purple-tinged Purpurascens, variegated chartreuse and apple-green Icterina or my favorite, Tricolor. Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) is a close second in the kitchen. An upright type with light-green leaves and a fruity, tropical taste, it grows three to five feet tall and wide, and bears bright-red tubular flowers in late summer and fall that hummingbirds adore. Its fresh leaves and flowers add sweetness to ice cream, tea and fresh salads, while the dried leaves are a nice addition to potpourri. Both sages like protection from the hottest afternoon sun and prefer fertile soil with excellent drainage. Common sage grows well in pots and you can harvest the leaves any time of year. Pineapple sage is best in the ground, where its roots can roam. Lop off spent stems of pineapple sage all the way to the ground in late fall or winter. Joan S. Bolton is a freelance writer, garden coach and garden designer who confesses to a lifelong love affair with plants. She and her husband, Tom, have filled their four-acre property in western Goleta with natives and other colorful, water-conserving plants. They also maintain avocado, citrus and fruit trees and grow vegetables and herbs year-round. SantaBarbaraGardens.com
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EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 29
GLOBAL LOCAL CUISINE
Croissant Bread Pudding.
The Bread Culture of France by Laura Booras PHOTOGRAPHY BY WIL FERNANDEZ
I
t’s hard to say exactly when I fell in love with France, because I’ve fallen in love with the picturesque villages, melodic and descriptive language and, of course, the worldrenowned food over and over throughout my life. My mother, a fellow Francophile, spoke French to me as a baby and cooked traditional French dishes with me throughout my life. Next to her, I rolled sponge cake for bûche de Noël, the traditional French yule log cake, and made gratins of every kind. She attended La Varenne Cooking School in Paris in the 1970s, bringing home pages and pages of stained, yellowed notes that we still reference today. So when, on a whim, I applied to the famed Le Cordon Bleu in Paris last fall, I was simultaneously thrilled and terrified to receive an acceptance letter for the spring term. I packed my bags, found an apartment and headed to that city I so love. Le Cordon Bleu was a change of daily activity: early mornings and late nights, spotless uniforms, loud choruses of “oui, 30 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
chef!” throughout campus, and a rigorous training schedule. My class consisted of students from 55 different countries, and though there was a translator, all of the demonstration classes were in French. Between school and daily life in Paris, I was completely immersed in the language and the food. Ah, the food. There are many things to love about French food, but simply put, the crusty French baguette has become synonymous with France. I have always adored bread, but in Paris, I feel like I reconnected with it in a different way. For the French, it’s a part of every single meal; even on holidays, at least one boulangerie per neighborhood is required by law to be open. There was nothing more satisfying than snapping off the quignon (the end) of a warm baguette fresh from the oven on my way home in the evening, or smearing jam on a torn hunk in the morning to enjoy with my coffee. Bread rounded out the meal, soaking up the sauce, serving as a utensil or adding texture to a dish.
French Onion Soup This homey, comforting soup is perfect for a cool fall evening. I love Bob’s Pain aux Lardons because those little bites of bacon just make the soup even more delicious. You don’t have to use the veal demi-glace, but it’s worth it for the richer flavor. Makes 4 servings 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 pounds sweet onions, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon sugar 2 cloves garlic, minced 4 sprigs thyme 2 tablespoons flour 1
⁄ 2 cup white wine
1 quart beef stock 2 tablespoons veal demi-glace (optional) 2 cups grated Gruyere cheese 4 half slices of Bob’s Pain aux Lardons
In a heavy-bottom cast-iron pot, melt the butter and olive oil together until hot. Add the onions and sugar and cook down slowly, keeping the heat on medium or medium-low. As they cook and soften, scrape up the browned bits and stir so that they don’t burn. Cook the onions until they are golden brown, about an hour and a half. When the onions are soft and brown, add the garlic and thyme, then add the flour. Cook 2 minutes. Add the white wine and cook until it is completely evaporated, stirring constantly. Add the stock and demi-glace and stir to combine. Bring to a simmer and cook slowly for about 30 more minutes. Preheat the broiler. Remove the thyme sprigs. Pour the soup into 4 small oven-proof bowls on a lined baking sheet. Top with a slice of bread and then a generous mound of cheese. Put under the broiler until the cheese bubbles and browns.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 31
Laura Booras talks to Bob Oswaks as he prepares loaves of bread.
To get to school, I walked through the buildings in my neighborhood, the 16th arrondissement, and crossed the BirHakeim bridge, the Eiffel Tower constantly in view. One day, I stopped at my boulangerie to grab a jambon beurre sandwich, and as I happily munched in the sunshine, my dear friend Bob came to mind. Bob Oswaks, owner of Bob’s Well Bread in Los Alamos, California, makes similar sandwiches in his shop, and has, throughout his baking adventure, inspired me with various bread insights. Upon returning home, I met Bob at the bakery bright and early one morning to get a crash-course introduction into his world. Bread baking goes back to Bob’s roots; in fact, as you step into the door of his shop, you notice his grandmother’s bread fork, the store logo, which was used in Victorian times to pick up bread from the basket. Bob’s foray into baking truly began at the San Francisco Baking Institute, where he dove in headfirst to traditional baking methods while simultaneously writing rigorous business plans. While we sipped coffee and checked the morning’s levain, Bob shared his story with me. After over 30 years as a television executive came to an end, Bob was unsure of his next steps. Though the future seemed complex, he and his wife, Jane, built a wood-fired oven in the backyard of their home in Los Angeles and started experimenting with baking. Full of Life Flatbread’s rising star and Los Alamos neighbor, Chef Clark Staub, shared his bread starter and influential books on bread, imparting to Bob the true greatness of the process of fermentation and baking. As a result, Bob started baking daily; in his own words, he became “obsessed” with the rituals of fermenting the starter, kneading, steaming and baking, as well as the final result: the perfect loaf. He wanted to make Old World–style bread without additives or cheap ingredients. “When you bake bread, there’s a magic to that. People love learning about that experience,” Bob told me. 32 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
As the windows steamed up and the bread went into the hot ovens, I asked Bob and his head baker, Scott Smith, how the local conditions influence their bread. They described their ingredients, all of which are organic and wholesome and many of which come from nearby suppliers. “We could use cheaper ingredients,” said Bob. “But then we wouldn’t be making something we’re proud of.” Additionally, the two described to me how weather conditions affect the breads. “When the weather is hot, you have to be careful not to allow the levain to over ferment and result in a sour flavor,” said Scott. “Careful temperature control is essential to getting the right flavors in the final product, but there is only so much control over the weather.” To compensate when the weather is warm, the boulangers use much cooler water during the mixing process. Anyone who has ever made their own bread starter has some experience with the natural process of creating levain, the mixture of flour and water that has been converted into a leavening agent through fermentation. Though Bob’s version of this is complex and fine tuned, it makes one think of the wine term terroir, which is the taste and flavor imparted to a wine by the environment in which is it produced. Clearly, this exists for other things, especially bread, as the breads created in Los Alamos are unique in their own way. How lucky are we to have such nutritious, traditional-style bread products available right here in our own community? For me, it’s a continuation of that lifestyle I cultivated in France that centered around fresh bread. To celebrate this, I took home some of the breads and croissants that Bob and his team made that morning and created a few dishes that can also be paired with locally produced wines. Recently returned from attending Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Laura Booras is the general manager at Riverbench Vineyard & Winery in the Santa Maria Valley. She lives on the vineyard, where she regularly hosts food writers, celebrity chefs and wine critics for unique meals prepared with locally sourced ingredients.
Wine Pairings
S
Smoked Salmon Toasts
– 2017 Margerum Riviera Rosé
French Onion Soup – 2015 Cotiere Pinot Noir
Croissant Bread Pudding – 2015 Riverbench Demi-Sec Sparkling Wine Recipes for Croissant Bread Pudding and Smoked Salmon Toasts can be found at
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34 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
Foodie The Explorations, Mishaps and Escapades of a Santa Barbara Gastronome by John Cox PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN COX
“Foodies” love to write about chefs. From epic rants on Yelp to the cult-like followings of TV celebrities, it seems like today just about everyone has something to say about restaurants and chefs. I think it’s time for chefs to turn the tables. Chefs and restaurants are only one facet of the culinary world. This is a story about a foodie I have come to know and respect in Santa Barbara. He is a “foodie” in the very best sense of the word, a person who dedicates an immense amount of time and resources toward the pursuit of great food. The Kill Crimson beads of blood were already drying on the plasticwrapped table and chairs. He was working against the clock. After hauling the lifeless body up nine floors it was just a matter a time before some curious neighbor came knocking at his studio apartment. The head hung off one end of the table, dead eyes fixed on the fluorescent light above. He was a lawyer, at least an aspiring one, and neither killing or butchering came naturally to him. Blood continued to pool as he watched YouTube videos, a glass of red wine in one hand, a chef knife in the other; periodically probing a joint with the tip of the knife, trying to determine the best way to break the limbs into more manageable pieces. It had all started as a late-night whim. A posting on Craigslist, likely made while a bit buzzed, offering a bounty (or rather barter) to anyone willing to make the kill. Now, after a string of interesting conversations, he had gotten his wish.
Early Years Jake’s family cares about food and wine. His grandfather and grandmother, who both grew up in a small sheepherding village in the Basque region of France, instilled the family with a strong sense of culinary heritage. Jake’s grandfather passed away before Jake was born, but every Christmas his grandmother carried on
the Basque tradition, roasting whole legs of lamb and making cabbage rolls filled with braised meat. Hearty soups, slow roasts, tomatoes, olive oil and espellete pepper were commonplace on the family table. Jake still prepares his family’s lamb-stuffed cabbage on occasion. Growing up in Santa Barbara, Jake was fortunate to be surrounded by incredible fish and produce year-round. His mother, who enjoyed frequenting Lazy Acres market, kept the family well supplied with fresh fruits and vegetables. Jake has been a food lover for as long as he can remember. As a toddler he recalls his father letting him help pound out chicken piccata with a small mallet on the kitchen counter. After graduating college Jake moved to Washington, DC, to study law at American University. One day a week he would volunteer at Rogue 24, with RJ Cooper, a James Beard Award– winning chef known for his cutting-edge culinary techniques and innovative flavor combinations. The restaurant, with its extravagant 24-course tasting menu, is now closed but Jake still has fond memories from the time he spent there. “It was great. The chef would yell at me, saying something like, ‘Hey lawyer, get your ass over here and chop this up’ and I would respond with ‘Sure thing, asshole!’” The chef knew Jake was there purely because he had a love for cooking, and that gained him respect within the kitchen ranks.
Opposite: Jake grills up a feast on his Big Green Egg.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 35
36 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
Opposite and above: Jake prepares local spear-caught tuna with golden dragon fruit and tobiko caviar.
An Endangered Catch Most Saturdays, despite often nursing vestiges of a hangover, Jake religiously rolls out of bed and drags himself to the fishermen’s market at the harbor. The market officially starts at 6am, but intrepid cooks are often line up before dawn waiting for the first booth to open. Jake is no exception and gladly trades a good night’s sleep for a shopping bag full of local seafood. Rock crab is one of Jake’s market favorites but the real excitement in not knowing what he will find buried in the crushed ice. Earlier this year he spotted a small charcoal-colored fish standing out against the bright orange vermillion rockfish. The fish was rather ordinary looking with a wide-stocky build, heavy jaw and rounded teeth, but Jake couldn’t quite identify it. When he asked the fisherman he was told it was a black sea bass. Having never seen a sea bass at the market he quickly snatched it up. Little did he know at the time how rare this fish really was. At home he performed a few Google searches about California black sea bass and quickly realized the slow-maturing species, known to grow to over 500 pounds, was critically threatened and prohibited for both commercial and recreational
fishermen. The chance of a fisherman catching a three-pound baby black sea bass in their bycatch is astonishingly low. Couple that with the public outrage of selling a nearly endangered species, and you can imagine why Jake had never run across this before. (Under some licenses a fisherman is allowed one black sea bass bycatch each year.) What do you do with such a rare specimen? You certainly can’t throw it back once it has been gutted and thrown on ice. Jake did what every true cook would do: He committed to honoring the precious ingredient to the best of his ability. Carefully, with the help of a friend, he removed the bones from the belly leaving the entire fish intact. Next, they stuffed the cavity with local ridgeback shrimp tails (also from the market), shaved fennel, garlic and chorizo. After gently trussing the fish back together they slowly smoked it on his barbecue until the skin was crisp and rendered and the rich white flesh flaked away with a mere glance. The dish was exceptional, one of the greatest culinary delicacies he had experienced, but at the same time it filled him with a sense of guilt.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 37
The Bait Dock
Life of the Party
Perhaps harking back to his Basque heritage, Jake loves small oily fish like sardines and anchovies. The problem is that they are almost impossible to find in the local markets. One day, after having broken the bad news that there were still no sardines or anchovies available, his local fishmonger leaned in and told him a secret. It turned out that there were in fact tons of local sardines just a few hundred yards away, still thrashing and alive! The problem was, they were being held at the bait dock in the harbor for fishermen. The way the fish and game department issued permits, there was in fact no commercial sardine or anchovy catch allowed, but fisherman could target the schools of tiny fish for use as bait. Of course you can’t just walk over to the bait dock, you either have to kayak or catch a ride with a friendly boat. Needless to say, those logistical challenges didn’t slow Jake down and he has been making cured sardine escabeche and boquerones ever since.
As we arrived at Jake’s home we were immediately enveloped by a throng of people hovering over a platter of tuna toro sashimi garnished with transparent slices of jalapeño and shaved kumquat. It seems that most of the guests were in their late 20s and early 30s and from a broad range of professions—including foresters, sailors, bartenders, winemakers, teachers and lawyers. People passed around a bottle of mead made in the garage with local honey from the farmers market. Out the back door Jake was manning a six foot Santa Maria grill, a beer in one hand and tongs in the other. Fat dripped off the wagyu tri-tips, igniting off the oak coals into yellow flashes that silhouetted Jake’s wild hair and stump of Cuban cigar hanging out a corner of his mouth. I noticed that he was working in a pair of board shorts and flip-flops, casual attire appropriate to the warm Santa Barbara evening, but a regrettable wardrobe choice if a chef ’s knife were to slide off the counter or a burning coal were to drop from the grill. Jake lives in an older bungalow, worn and faded, overlooking a lush park that extends into the Pacific ocean vista. He and his four roommates have carved out their own little slice of paradise, an eclectic group of young professionals searching for a way to make ends meet in the American Riviera. A single passion fruit vine, decades old, has almost enveloped the home and backyard, offering its yellow orbs of fruit in return for not being pruned back from the ceiling joists and foundation. A few minutes later dinner was served. Chairs and benches were gathered from every corner of the home and people continued to pour through the front door. More than 20 people crowded around a Tetris puzzle of tables, precariously perched on whatever seating surface they could claim. An ancient halfblind cat wove its way through the tangle of legs, stopping for a scrap of fish or an ear scratch as it made its way around the table. As heaping trays of grilled meats and vegetables circulated around the room guests displayed great restraint to make sure everyone at the table got a taste. Empty bottles of mead, beer and local wine littered the table. Halfway through the meal two of Jake’s friends brought out a brown bag with a lion’s mane mushroom they had foraged near Lake Cachuma earlier that day. Perhaps they had forgotten, or maybe the alcohol surging through their veins had erased any misgivings about whether the mushroom was indeed edible; either way, within a few moments the robust fungus had been cleaned, cleaved in half and thrown into a cast-iron pan with butter. The mushroom roasted in the simmering brown butter filled the kitchen and dining room with the intense aroma of forest and caramel. As the mahogany clusters of mushroom cooled on a paper towel guests pulled them apart with their fingers and tried the exotic specimen. It was clear that people came for not just Jake’s cooking, but his hospitality. This diverse group of friends, and friends
Passion Fruit for Days Once he has wrapped up at the fishermen’s market it’s usually still too early to head over to the Saturday farmers market. This provides a two-hour reprieve perfect for a quick trip home and a power nap, leaving just enough time to dose up with an aggressive round of caffeine before heading downtown. Jake loves the Saturday farmers market—the diversity of fruits and vegetables, the spectacle of shoppers, musicians and other colorful personalities. He bounces back and forth between his favorite vendors. Freshly killed rabbits from Sage Hill, citrus from Mud Creek Ranch, vegetables from Roots Farm, Mama’s and Jacob’s and too many options to list them all. He looks for exciting ingredients, scanning each aisle for a new challenge or seasonal bargain. One particularly epic day, Jake worked on negotiating the best price on passion fruit. Six dollars per pound was steep, even for the best purple passion fruit. Angling for a bulk discount he asked what the price would be on 20 pounds. The farmer dropped off a few cents and Jake continued to push on the price. The season for local passion fruit is short and farmers typically don’t have any problem selling them at a premium. Finally he asked, “What if I took everything, blemishes and all?” The price that came back was so favorable he upped his ante and took all 166 pounds, filling the entire back of his car with cardboard boxes full of fruit. The next three days were spent halving passion fruit, removing seeds and straining the juice. He used some of the juice to make his signature kombucha, but even that didn’t make much of a dent in his frozen stockpile. (He still has seven gallons in his freezer!) As his shopping bags fill up Jake begins to think about how he will put the ingredients to use. Which of the roommates will be home? What friends will be in town? Does he want to light up the Santa Maria barbecue, Big Green Egg or just stick with the indoor kitchen?
Opposite: A heaping plate of grilled meats and vegetables.
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of friends, were all drawn in by the pure jubilance of the evening. It was not a birthday party or special occasion, it was simply people gathering to celebrate Jake’s love of food and camaraderie. These often-impromptu dinner parties have gained a level of local lore amongst the millennial generation. At times they have grown so large that nobody can say exactly who was there, let alone who invited them.
The Inevitable Question Why don’t you become a chef? That’s a question Jake hears often. It’s evident he has a passion for food, and a talent in the kitchen, so why not embrace it? Why slave to get a law degree and work your way through the ranks of an industry that doesn’t resonate with your life’s dream? Perhaps Jake saw just enough of the professional chef life in DC to seed his own doubts about the industry. The notoriously long hours, low pay and often-abusive environment aren’t exactly a culinary nirvana for those people immersed in restaurant life. Sure, the outside perspective may be the glamour of food TV personalities or the hardened culinary mercenaries that Anthony Bourdain portrayed in his book Kitchen Confidential, but the truth is more mundane. Yes, chefs love food, or at least most of them loved food at one point, but few go home to cook for a large group of friends and family after work. The night that Jake brought the entire venison carcass, freshly killed somewhere in the woods of Virginia, up to his tiny studio apartment, was a turning point. Later that evening his friends would ask, as they feasted on a bowl piled high with tartare, “Had he finally lost it?” Sure, law school was challenging, and colorful antics were not uncommon, but as they looked at the carnage still evident around the apartment they struggled to understand his motive. If one must eat venison, why not just get a nicely packaged piece at the neighborhood market? One thing was undeniable, however: Their friend had a passion for food. This obsession was evident in the bowl before them: tiny cubes of dark red flesh meticulously separated from between the bones and carefully seasoned with shallots, olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt and fresh-cracked black pepper, before being crowned with a farm-fresh egg yolk. Even the four young college women, who could have easily turned their noses up at such a macabre late-night snack, were digging in with gusto. At the end of the day, Jake is an attorney, not a killer, butcher or chef. He may one day find his own path into the professional world of food and wine, but until then he will continue to enjoy food and cooking in their purest form, at home, here in Santa Barbara, in the company of friends. John Cox is the chef partner at The Bear and Star in Los Olivos. When he isn’t in the kitchen, or at home on his boat in Santa Barbara, he loves traveling the world in search of new culinary experiences.
40 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
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Earth to
JAKOB N. L AYMAN
Table
Opposite and above: The Monarch’s local handcrafted serving dishes showcase their cuisine.
Hand-thrown ceramics, wooden chopping boards and other handcrafted pieces that ref lect the hand of the maker make for a more pleasurable, artisanal dining experience by Leslie A. Westbrook
I
f you have taken the time to go to the farmers market or your local farm stand, and/or spent time chatting with the fishmonger or butcher as to what’s best that day, and have carefully planned a menu and then put time, love and energy into choosing and preparing your recipes, it makes sense to me that you should serve what you cook (or the good wine you have selected) in vessels worthy of their contents. In my estimation, it is quite enjoyable to serve, eat, sip or swirl from unique handmade ceramic dishes, bowls and platters and hand-blown glassware and even chop or serve cheese on hand-hewn wooden chopping boards rather than massproduced items. 42 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
I have a wooden spoon that was handmade by a fine artisan more than 40 years ago (1974 to be exact, as it is signed). Since it is cracked, I use it only for the gentlest of tasks: scooping out my Pero (fake coffee) in the morning. The spoon is not only beautiful, but it holds memories of the man who made it for me long, long ago and the magical summer spent in a cabin tucked into a nasturtium-carpeted California live oak grove in Summerland. I also remember taking gentle sips of coffee sweetened with sugar from my father’s bulky, handmade mug that, to my disdain, did not have a smooth, shiny glaze on the entire surface. I avoided the unglazed portions that felt rough to
JAKOB N. L AYMAN
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 43
Where to Find Local Urchin Made in Santa Barbara If you are looking for handcrafted pieces as gifts or for your own table, there are several sources in our area. This is by no means a complete list, but it should get you started. Jerry Kry has been a fixture at the Sunday Arts & Crafts Show on Cabrillo Boulevard for 43 years. He offers a huge array of colorful ware that includes plates, bowls of all sizes, platters, mugs as well as hard-to-find and “hard-to-make” goblets at wholesale prices. He made 500 pieces (mostly small bowls) for Convivo restaurant just down the boulevard in the Santa Barbara Inn and is donating 250 bowls to the annual Empty Bowls fundraiser for the Foodbank of Santa Barbara County in November.
JOHN COX
“In the 1990s,” he recalled, “I made 1,200 bowls for the Ojai Valley Inn. Room service served fruit in them and the guests got to keep the bowls!”
Bear and Star worked with local artisans to create one-of-a-kind pieces.
my lips. Yet I loved embracing this mug in my tiny hands and sharing my father’s morning wakeup drink. Isn’t it funny what we remember from so long ago? Which is exactly my point. Eating or drinking from something made by hand—something that has been infused with the spirit and creativity of the maker—not only affects our enjoyment of what’s in it at the time, but is potentially memory making. Sure, I also remember aluminum Swanson frozen food dinner trays—but who the heck made those, anyway? I have more reasons for my love of handmade items. My sister, Yvonne, is a ceramicist. I cherish four beautiful jade-green glazed cereal-sized bowls that she threw by hand and use them often. One has several chips, which only proves that I have loved and used that bowl more than the others. Nothing gives me more pleasure than sipping soup or spooning morning oatmeal in the winter from these or from raku-glazed bowls (also given to me by my sister) that were made by a Japanese potter whose name is lost to time. I am more careful with two much larger salad or fruit bowls she made—for fear of breaking them. I should use them more often. I inadvertently discovered that we also have a pair of ancestral relatives, several generations back, who lived in the South (Tennessee, as I recall) whose vocations were listed as “potters” on the U.S. Census. Apparently, it’s “in the blood.” 44 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
New to the crafts show is recent Los Angeles transplant Andrew Troung of PBerry handcrafted ceramics. Troung’s black ceramic cappuccino mugs are a standout—his work is stained unglazed porcelain and he makes plates and bowls by commission. He also has a showroom in the Funk Zone and teaches youth cooking classes (for grades K–9)—including Vietnamese and other world cuisines—under a Foodbank program. Ceramicist Pegeen Souter is also a private chef who keeps bees and raises chickens. The UCSB grad makes charming, whimsical heart-theme bowls as well as elegant platters with matching olive oil/ salt cellar/hummus bowls. In her “second act” she graduated from culinary school at SBCC. Saul Alcaraz of Santa Barbara Art Glass makes beautiful hand-blown drinking glasses and goblets— his gold lusterware is fit for royalty. The Yes Store, the annual and “original” crafts pop-up store, offers an array of ceramics by locals including Victoria Littlejohn (her 1970s pieces are collectible); Dane Venass, founder of UCSB’s Living Arts Pottery Studio Gaby Mandelick (casseroles, baking dishes and goblets that are microwave-, dishwasher- and oven-safe); Stephen Mori; Troy Schmidt (Red Dragon Pottery Celtic trivets; tea bowls and incredible miniatures!) and unique goblets from Rolled Oats Pottery’s Jane Schwarzwalter in Solvang. This November and December The Yes Store will be in Paseo Nuevo mall across from Nordstrom.
Check out lovely Scandinavian and Japanese-inspired ceramic wares by Santa Barbara YOKWE Ceramics (named for the Marshall Islands greeting “You are a rainbow”) at Diani Home. Although Carpinteria-based Rebekah Miles only sells her charming, whimsical ceramics in trendy L.A., San Francisco, New York and Dallas boutiques, her pieces are worth seeking out. (Her husband Mark Churchill of Churchill Ceramics is also a potter who throws and fires his wares in an Ojai studio). Handmade wooden cutting boards honed by a variety of makers include those made by talented furniture maker Jay Keefrider (KeefriderSB.com). Joel Hoffman’s whimsical surfboard-shaped cutting boards from his Santa Barbara Cutting Board Co. are great gifts for the surfers in your life and sold at Plum Goods, The Yes Store and online.
DISCOVERIES It is great to support local artisans and stores, but it’s also fun to purchase pieces discovered during one’s travels. In Bangkok, Thailand, I came across wonderful handforged dining utensils that I wish I had bought at the time (an excuse to return, perhaps?). Mexico has always held my appreciation for its beautiful handblown glassware, as well as the country’s dizzying array of hand-painted pottery dishware and tinware. Italy, Spain, France and Portugal are also known for lovely examples of handmade dinner and glassware. Biot hand-blown goblets and glasses from the South of France show the glassblower’s breath with bubbles in the glass. In Brazil, I discovered beautiful serving pieces made from exotic hardwoods and coconut shell (don’t put these in the dishwasher or let them soak in water!). Ditto in Indonesia, as well as serving utensils handmade from buffalo and cow horn. Even small pieces, such as a beer/mead growler, lidded jars or olivewood bowls for spices or herbs, vases and trivets for the dining table, add to the earth-to-table experience.
ANDRE W TROUNG
Many handmade imports can be found in Santa Barbara, like the ceramics at Italian Pottery Outlet (I’m partial to the Deruta Geometrico using century-old techniques) and carafes for holding utensils painted in Italian: UTENSILIS. At Diani Home there are beautiful hand-blown green glass goblets from the Kingdom of Swaziland, handforged knives and made-in-the-USA ceramic plates and white glazed small platters from Studio TN out of Nashville, Tennessee. PBerry
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JAKOB N. L AYMAN
broken plates and I am using some of them for desserts!” said Margarita. Taking the earth-to-table idea one step further, melt-in-your-mouth bone marrow and Santa Barbara abalone are served in an iridescent abalone shell nestled atop local ogo seaweed from Doug Bush’s cultured abalone farm in a beautifully glazed ceramic bowl. In Los Olivos, The Bear & Star in Fess Parker’s Wine Country Inn features leather placemats from Kristy White of Faith Leather in Los Olivos and ceramic plates from Rolled Oats Pottery in Solvang. Custom hand-blown drinking glasses from Santa Barbara Art Glass are reserved for use in the private dining room and the Chef ’s Room. “I wanted to create a space that had a rustic-ranch feel but also a level of refinement,” said Chef John Cox. “Often, when you go to a restaurant, the plates, napkins and silverware feel familiar because the same items are being used at most other restaurants. It was important to me that The Bear and Star have its own unique feel and identity. We accomplished this by working closely with local artisans on custom pieces.” I’m sure there are other restaurants that use local handcrafted serving dishes. For instance, just as we were wrapping up production, we heard that Chef Budi Kazali at the Gathering Table in the Ballard Inn uses a few dishes that were handcrafted by the local high school ceramics class. Don’t get me wrong: It isn’t that I don’t love the antique china, etched-crystal wine glasses and silver that were passed down to me from my grandmother—they have their place at the table too and they certainly hold memories. They were also designed by someone—and made by factory artists—but they don’t have the human fingerprint. When you know the person who made the piece—or even if you don’t and it “speaks” to you—it has been infused with its maker’s touch and spirit. Something as simple as your morning tea or coffee sipped from a handmade mug can make a day that began by getting out on the wrong side of the bed into a morning that is infinitely more pleasurable. Give it a try. Not only are you supporting local artisans, you are supporting your own, and other folks’, soul.
The Monarch commissioned local artisans to make their distinctive serving dishes.
From ceramic mugs and gaily decorated serving platters to hand-blown glassware, these culinary items add to not only the enjoyment in the preparation and presentation of food but also what’s served in them—both for the chef and the diners and imbibers. Many chefs find that handmade ceramics inspire more thoughtful plating. When I was a kid my family used to visit a health food restaurant in Topanga Canyon that served freshly baked brown bread and all the dishware was pottery handmade by the owner, Bob DeWitt (what would now be “vintage”). I am happy to see that trend being revitalized in Montecito. At The Monarch, in the Montecito Inn, owners/chefs Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee took a huge leap and commissioned two Santa Barbara artisans Gill Issac Kaufman (Happy Green Merchant) and Wyn Matthews, along with Sean Ponder of Firestick Pottery in Ojai to make all of the ceramic bowls, eight different plate designs, serving platters and water pitchers. (It was out of the question to have 4,000 wine glasses hand-blown). Larger bowls are warmed in the hearth in the gas-free restaurant. “Since we use local products—meat, fish and produce fresh each day—we also wanted to celebrate local artisans,” said Phillip. The tabletops were made from reclaimed barn wood by Santa Barbara woodworker Albert Apodaca. “We found great local artisans and gave them the freedom to do what they wanted. For the plates, we just provided the dimensions as well as if a dish needed a lip or other consideration,” Phillip added. Even “seconds” were utilized. “I told them to save the half 46 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
Award-winning writer/author Leslie Andrea Westbrook is a thirdgeneration Californian on both her Sicilian (maternal) and Westbrook (paternal) sides. Her articles appear nationally (Traditional Home magazine), regionally in California and online globally. She can be reached at LeslieAWestbrook@gmail.com
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Frittata and Her Cousins: Tortilla and Kuku by Janice Cook Knight PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA CURRY
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L
et’s consider the frittata. It is a blissfully simple egg dish that can be breakfast, lunch or dinner. So simple, once you understand it, that you won’t even need a recipe. I think that Italians must have invented frittatas to use up leftovers. You have a little leftover spaghetti and red sauce from last night’s dinner? Beat up some eggs, toss in the pasta, season with pepper and Parmesan cheese, and cook it in a well-oiled cast-iron skillet. Frittata is a great way, too, to use up leftover cooked vegetables: Roasted broccoli, steamed green beans or asparagus can all make their way into the eggs, along with a little cheese, and maybe some crumbled, cooked pancetta. Frittata was my introduction to this type of egg dish, basically a crust-less quiche. It is an inch or two thick, made in a cast-iron or a deep nonstick skillet, started on the stove top and possibly transferred to the oven or under the broiler for a quick finish, so as not to dry the eggs out. Ideally frittatas will reflect what’s in season, and you can make them any time of the year. As my culinary adventures expanded, I discovered similar dishes in other cuisines. Next it was the tortillas of Spain. The word tortilla comes from the Spanish root torte, meaning cake. In Mexico tortillas are flat breads made of cornmeal or flour, but in Spain a tortilla refers to a flat “cake” made of eggs, commonly made with onions and fried potatoes. Tortilla is found everywhere in Spain, and it is ubiquitous in tapas bars, cut into small squares for serving. Tortilla is even served as the filling for a sandwich! Recently I discovered another similar dish: the Persian kuku. It is the Persian spin on frittata. Cauliflower kuku is particularly delicious, with seasonings of pepper, cumin, turmeric, cayenne and parsley. The cauliflower gives it a succulent, almost meaty texture. The recipe here was adapted from Najmieh Batmanglij’s cookbook Joon: Cooking Made Simple. Najmieh’s technique is interesting in that she adds a tablespoon of flour and ½ teaspoon of baking powder to the eggs, not ingredients I have ever seen added to a frittata or tortilla. This creates a slightly lighter texture than that of a tortilla or a frittata. Najmieh says that Persians like their kukus extra fluffy. As you explore recipes for these three types of flat egg dishes, you’ll find some crossover in the techniques. Renowned Italian cooking teacher Marcella Hazan said that she preferred finishing frittatas in the oven, but that some cooks like to flip them and finish cooking on the stovetop, which is the technique I’ve used here for the Spanish tortilla. It’s fun to sample the different techniques and find which you prefer. Cooking the frittata or tortilla on the stove top, and then flipping it over to cook the other side requires slightly more oil, as you really don’t want the eggs sticking to the pan when you are about to flip a nine-inch-diameter cake of eggs and vegetables. Also, most Spaniards like their tortillas a little on the moist side, while the frittatas and kukus are cooked just through. Whether it’s frittata, tortilla or kuku, I prefer to cook each of them in a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet, which allows me to pop them in the oven or finish them on the stove top. Start with fresh vegetables, or cleverly disguise last night’s dinner in a cloak of creamy beaten eggs. Golden-colored frittatas, tortillas and kuku are so satisfying.
Recipes Onion and Zucchini Frittata In spring, I love to make frittata with fresh asparagus. Since it’s the beginning of autumn, here is a seasonal variation. Adapted from Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (Knopf, 1993). Makes 4–6 servings 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup onion, thinly sliced 3 medium zucchini, sliced into ¼-inch-thick disks 8 large fresh basil leaves, sliced 6 eggs 1 teaspoon sea salt or to taste Freshly ground black pepper 2
⁄ 3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
2 tablespoons butter
Heat olive oil in a skillet, and cook the onion with a pinch of salt until onions are golden brown. Add the zucchini and cook until zucchini slices are tender and a little brown. Remove from pan and allow to cool. Beat the eggs in a bowl and add the onion and zucchini, basil, salt, pepper and the grated Parmesan. Melt the butter in a 9- or 10-inch nonstick or seasoned cast-iron skillet (with an ovenproof handle), and when it begins to foam, add the egg mixture. Turn the heat down to very low. When the eggs have set and thickened (this will take about 15 minutes) and only the surface is runny, put the skillet under the broiler for a few seconds. Take it out as soon as the face of the frittata sets, before it becomes browned. Serve.
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Tortilla with Potatoes and Artichokes Adapted from The New Spanish Table by Anya von Bremzen (Workman, 2005). Serves 6–8 as a tapa, 4 as a light main dish. 4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more if needed 1
⁄ 2 medium-sized onion, quartered and thinly sliced
2 large boiled Yukon Gold potatoes, quartered and thinly sliced 8 small artichoke hearts, thinly sliced (use artichoke hearts packed in oil, drained) 7 large eggs 2 tablespoons chicken stock or broth 1 teaspoon salt or to taste
⁄ 8 teaspoon piment d’espelette (Basque red pepper), or a pinch of cayenne 1
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 9- to 10-inch nonstick or castiron skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until limp but not brown, 3–5 minutes. Add the potato and cook, stirring gently, for 5 minutes. Stir in the artichokes and cook, stirring, for another 2–3 minutes. While the veggies are cooking, beat together the eggs, stock, salt and red pepper. With a slotted spoon, remove veggies from pan and set aside. Clean pan then add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the pan, place over medium heat and, when oil is hot, add the eggs. Immediately scatter the vegetable mixture over the eggs, and reduce heat to medium low. Cook, lifting up the egg mixture with a thin spatula or wooden knife as it sets, letting the liquid egg mixture run under. Continue to cook the tortilla in this fashion until the top is a little wet but not liquid, about 5 minutes. If you have a frittata pan with a locking top, now is the time to heat it, brush it with olive oil and lock it into place on top of the skillet, then flip the whole thing over and cook on low 3–4 minutes, or until eggs are set. Alternatively, you can run a thin spatula under the tortilla to make sure that no part of the bottom is stuck to the skillet. Top the skillet with a rimless plate slightly larger than the skillet and, using oven mitts, quickly invert the tortilla onto the plate. If the skillet looks dry, add a little more olive oil. Carefully slide the tortilla back into the skillet, uncooked side down. Shake the skillet to straighten the tortilla if necessary, and push the edges in with the spatula. Reduce the heat to very low and cook the tortilla until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out barely clean, 3–4 minutes. Or, if your pan is ovenproof you can pop it under a hot broiler for a minute or 2 to set the eggs. In any case, invert the finished tortilla onto a serving plate, let cool a minute and cut into wedges. Serve warm or at room temperature. To serve as a tapa, cut the tortilla into squares and serve with toothpicks.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL FALL 2018 | 55
Cauliflower Kuku Besides Joon: Persian Cooking Made Simple, Najmieh Batmanglij has also written a comprehensive book on Persian cooking. Recently reissued, Food of Life: Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Ceremonies features 22 kuku recipes, in case you are truly inspired. This recipe is adapted from Najmieh Batmanglij’s Joon: Persian Cooking Made Simple (Mage Publishers, 2015). Makes 4–6 servings 1
⁄ 4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 small head cauliflower, cut up into florets and coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon sea salt 1
⁄ 2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin 1
⁄ 4 teaspoon turmeric
1
⁄ 4 teaspoon cayenne
1
⁄ 2 cup chopped fresh parsley
4 eggs 1
⁄ 2 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon rice flour, potato starch or all-purpose flour 1
⁄ 2 cup feta cheese or creamy goat cheese, crumbled
Preheat oven to 400°. Heat ¼ cup of oil in a 9- or 10-inch cast-iron or nonstick skillet, with ovenproof handle, over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, cauliflower, salt, pepper, cumin, turmeric, cayenne and parsley, and stir-fry for 4–5 minutes, or until the cauliflower is soft. Remove mixture from pan and allow to cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, break the eggs into a mixing bowl and whisk in the baking powder and flour. Fold in the cauliflower mixture and the cheese. Wipe out the pan, add 2 tablespoons oil, and reheat skillet over medium heat. Pour the kuku mixture into the skillet, and swirl eggs to the edges. Reduce heat to low, and flatten the surface of the kuku. Cook for about 4 minutes, or until eggs just begin to set. Transfer the skillet to the preheated oven and bake for 8–10 minutes, or until the edges are lightly browned and coming away from the skillet. Remove the skillet from the oven, cut into wedges and serve with bread, fresh herbs and yogurt.
Janice Cook Knight is the author of The Follow Your Heart Cookbook: Recipes from the Vegetarian Restaurant and Follow Your Heart’s Vegetarian Soup Cookbook. She has taught cooking for 35 years. Her article in the Fall 2014 issue of Edible Santa Barbara, “Hurray for the Orange, Red and Gold: The Season for Persimmons,” won the 2015 M.F.K. Fisher Award in the Print Category. JaniceCookKnight.com
56 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
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Mistaken Identity Mourvèdre/Graciano by Sonja Magdevski PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRAN COLLIN
A
t the University of California, Davis, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences there exists a department called Foundation Plant Services (FPS) that was established in 1958 for the sole purpose of distributing “virus tested, professionally identified grape, fruit and nut tree propagation stock,” according to its website. Essentially, tree and vine cuttings are sent to FPS, where the material is propagated and studied under quarantine for years to establish disease-free clone material for production agriculture. For the grape industry specifically, FPS became the hub for the California Grapevine Registration & Certification (R&C) Program where vines are inspected and tested regularly. Under R&C, imported grape clones from around the world are also studied in this meticulous safe zone to ensure the material is safe for widespread planting. Agriculture in California is big business. UC Davis has been on the forefront of crop science since its inception. People trust them. The history of California vineyards was founded on what are called “suitcase cuttings” primarily from Europe, brought into the United States by immigrants and farmers, stowed in their luggage. While a plant may not have shown any disease in its country of origin, the new environment might prove to be the perfect habitat for spreading disease. This happens not only with grapevine cuttings, it can happen with all plants, animals and microbes. This is why you can’t bring a banana from California into Hawaii. Modern-day thrill-seeking winemakers also understand the consequences and send cuttings to be verified at institutions such as UC Davis, lest they end up destroying their entire industry because of an unknown pathogen. In line with standard practice, FPS was the first place Sunridge Nurseries in the San Joaquin Valley sent the Monastrell 571 clone of Mourvèdre it received from one of its
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foreign suppliers. A company called Plansel said it had the rare clone that several wineries in California had been seeking. For its patience and efforts in having the clone tested, quarantined and correctly identified, Sunridge would then be one of the sole providers of this clone in the United States. After a number of years, FPS released the verified Monastrell 571 clone to Sunridge, which promptly began planting the grapevine for patiently waiting clients. The wine industry, despite its celebrated historic global legacy, is not unlike fashion or other consumer industries seeking something new, trendy and exciting. This particular clone was impossible to track down and now, finally, it was so close. You can imagine the surprise then when Monastrell 571 Mourvèdre eventually revealed itself to be an entirely different grape. It was, in fact, Graciano, originally from Spain. The French call it Morrastel. Monastrell—Morrastel. Confused yet? Word spreads fast in the wine world. We are not immune from sharing ideas, rumors and gossip faster than fresh-pressed wine barreling down a hose. I entered this clonal grape saga almost two years ago when I was looking for new Mourvèdre plantings in Santa Barbara County. Mourvèdre is a particular varietal for our area that is not widely planted. Some vineyards that do farm it have clones that reveal virus characteristics, that can cause inconsistent ripening throughout the vine rows, complicating harvest strategies. I connected with the local vineyard managers at Coastal Vineyard Care Associates who were giddy at the prospect of these new Monastrell 571 Mourvèdre plantings finally coming online. I heard words like, “Amazing clone,” “Better than anything we currently have,” and so on. You can imagine how contagious this anticipation was. YES YES YES. Sign me up!
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Portico Hills Vineyard
In the harvest of 2017 I was introduced to two new vineyards, one of which was Portico Hills Vineyard, producing their first crop with this new Mourvèdre clone. The first time I visited these sites, I was truly impressed at the stature of the vines, the color in the fruit and the flavor of the grapes early in the season, unlike anything I had ever tasted before. Wow! I thought. This really is the unicorn clone. The one we’ve all been waiting for.
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Once I harvested and processed the fruit in the winery, its distinctive characteristics were never ending. In my experience, Mourvèdre generally takes a day or two to color up in the fermentation bin. The first day with this new clone created a deep, magenta-colored juice. I could go on and on about fermentation aromas, acid profiles, development in barrel during aging… This grape was an anomaly to all of the other Mourvèdre I had worked with.
Everything was progressing beautifully, until I was shown a letter this past May with one tiny paragraph:
Dear xxxxx, We are writing to inform you that after DNA testing this fall, it has come to our attention that Monastrell 571 that was exported by Plansel through FPS and propagated by Sunridge Nurseries is a form of Graciano and not Mourvedre. Moving forward you will need to report the fruit and label as Graciano or Morrastel. Please reach out to myself or your Sunridge field representative… Sincerely, Andrew Jones I started laughing. The vineyard manager said he was glad I was taking it so well. But I thought, ‘This explains everything.’ The author of the letter, Andrew Jones, has worked in the viticulture industry for the past 15 years and was primarily responsible for selling and communicating with vineyard owners about this new Mourvèdre/Graciano clone. I got in touch with him and during our conversation he clarified that now while 200 acres of Graciano has been mistakenly planted in California, it is a miniscule fraction
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 61
of what is planted in California overall and what Sunridge odd though I trusted in the system and thought it was clonal Nurseries is primarily known for—Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot variation. Like Primitivo versus Zinfandel. Justin was skeptical. Noir and table grapes for the San Joaquin Valley. He made wine and kicked the whole thing off in 2013. That was the first crop year. Word spread that this was a unique clone of I am not giving up the hunt for that Monastrell Mourvèdre. Mourvèdre. From that time on Here is an excerpt from my it has been 95% of our sales. conversation with Andrew “Right now the Graciano is in a good spot. I was Jones. Then a few years later, frustrated that it was not what it was intended Justin had friends over from Sonja Magdevski: When to be but when you are working with clones and France and they looked at it did you first start to suspect, rootstocks and different varieties, this is normal and said ‘Yes, it is Morrastel, or hear rumblings about “Are not Monastrell. An entirely human error. Today mistakes like this happen you sure this is Mourvedre?” different grape. Graciano not less often than in the past—say, 30 years ago Mourvèdre.’ Justin had it DNA Andrew Jones: The first when less-sophisticated systems were in place. tested again on his own and it stuff we got was skinny sticks. So when you are given lemons you make came back as Graciano. We had to do a special grafting lemonade and that is what we are doing.” process for Epoch winery (in SM: What were your initial Paso Robles). The next year we — Doug Circle, Portico Hills Vineyard thoughts? field grafted for Justin Smith of Saxum at the James Berry vineyard. In the second year, Justin AJ: Jorge Boehm, the plant breeder in Portugal for Plansel, called me out with some concerns saying that it looked different. was silent on the issue. As if he knows nothing about nothing. We had just gotten it from Foundation Plant Services directly To him, he has this old collection of clonal material that he imported from Plantsel. I said I agree 100% that it looked has gathered through the years through his company. If there
62 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 63
is a mix-up, then there is a wide-ranging mix-up. In Europe, the Old World perspective is different anyway. They don’t care about singular varietals; they care about regions, like Rioja or the Rhône. We get blindsided by things every few years. It is also tough that the academia folks only work on finding more problems without solving some of the problems we currently have. Everybody also thinks we make vines in a factory, but in the end we are farming too. We just farm in pots at extremely high density. Zero room for error too. Our clients want things sterile so we work very hard to meet these standards. It has been quite a fiasco. We always get through it. Graciano makes great wine. In the long run it is a good thing for us. SM: How do you decide with the vineyard owner what to plant and why? AJ: Most of the time when I am talking to vineyard owners it isn’t about clonal selections. We want to get the rootstock right; that is how I start the presentation. We have to get the rootstock dialed in. For growers it is about goals. What are your yield requirements? What kind of wine do you want to make? Are you selling these grapes? Keeping them for yourself? We talk about expectations. In the majority of varietals there isn’t that much clonal differentiation. With Merlot the differences are really about where the grapes are grown. Is it a marginal climate or an ideal climate? In Pinot Noir, where there are major differences in some cases, the conversation really goes to yields. For instance, working with the Calera clone you’d be lucky to get one or two tons per acre versus the 123 clone where you can get six to seven tons per acre. Again, the conversation goes toward location, purpose and expectations. SM: How have owners and winemakers responded to learning the truth? AJ: People’s reactions have been 50–50. The stuff really makes great wine and in the end that is all we should be striving for. I have been in the business for a long time and every three or four years something comes up in California. It is always a difficult conversation to have with growers and it is terrible, don’t get me wrong. When I was younger I took it personally, and it made the process very tough. The older I get, the more I realize it isn’t personal… though it is still a drag. About 90% of people right now are waiting to see how the wine sells and how they feel about it before they decide on their next move. All of this plant material has been around for a long time and—who knows?—Graciano may become the signature grape for Central California.
Heather Daenitz, at top and with Greg Mundia of Coastal Vineyard Care at Portico Hills Vineyard.
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Sonja Magdevski is winemaker/owner of Casa Dumetz Wines, a tiny producer in love with Grenache and specializing in Santa Barbara County Rhône varietals. She is also a reemerging journalist finding her way in the intricate and wonderful world of wine.
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Anticipation
The Pleasures of the Holiday Farmers Markets by Pascale Beale
T
he train left Paris precisely at 9 o’clock in the evening, snaking its way out through the suburbs into the countryside, its swaying motion and rhythmic clickityclack lulling its occupants to sleep. Lying on a bunk bed in the sleeper car, I would peer out into the darkness, counting the hours until we arrived. At each stop in the now-somnolent towns, I would mentally trace the journey we were making, snaking our way across France, through Dijon, then Lyon to Valance, finally up towards the Alps, past Gap, at daybreak reaching Embrun, where they would change the locomotives for the final climb into the upper Alpine valleys. As we neared our destination, we’d lower the windows to breathe in the breathtaking mountain air: in winter, so cold it would catch it your lungs; in summer, the air was filled with a cornucopia of aromas of pine and wild grass and we’d hear the song of cicadas as we slowly trundled by. We’d crane our necks up to the mountaintops and familiar valleys to catch the first glimpse of Briançon, the last stop on the line. My grandmother always met the train, which chugged into the station at 8am. After the hugs and exclamations of delight at seeing each other, we’d drive home for breakfast where, waiting on the table, would always be a Craquelin, a pearl-sugar-coated brioche bread from Petit, our favorite baker. Next to it would be some butter and my grandmother’s homemade apricot jam. We’d lightly toast the slices, slather on the jam and then… there would always be a moment’s pause. Would it taste the same? Would the lightly sweetened dough melt in your mouth the same way? There was a tangible joy when it did, and we savored every morsel. The highlights of the days that followed would be the parade of our favorite dishes: a simple grated carrot salad, a hachis parmentier (French shepherd’s pie), escalopes a la crème and her legendary lapin a la moutarde. Far away in London we longed for her food. The very idea of that succulent mustard sauce would send us into rhapsodies. The anticipation was part of the magic. Don’t we all have dishes that create that sense of longing? Perhaps it’s a nostalgic, sepia-tinged memory that makes a certain dish taste so special. For us, just describing her food set our taste buds tingling, creating a satisfaction so deep it nourished us. 66 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
I miss my walks through the markets and visits to purveyors with my grandmother. By her side I learned how to pick vegetables and fruit and to use and work with the food of each season. My love of farmers markets stems from those childhood days in France. I still have that eagerness each time I arrive at the market to see what new treasures I’ll find, particularly as we head into the latter part of the year when our calendars are filled with one celebratory meal after another. During the holiday season I sense that everyone is on high alert, wandering through the bustling aisles, long shopping lists in hand, seeking out just the right juicy item to enhance their festive tables. It is at these times that we want to please those around us even more. Surely, that is part of the pressure and the excitement of preparing meals for special occasions. As the holiday markets take on a festive air with an abundance of flowers and seasonal specialties piled up on the farmers’ tables, I often run into friends discussing their menu ideas, how they will prepare this year’s turkey, exchanging recipes and jotting down cooking times on any scrap of paper that comes to hand. I’ve had conversations with complete strangers as they too offer their advice or ask questions about how to prepare a particular dish. Having not grown up with Thanksgiving I am constantly curious about what everyone is making, and I delight in this sharing of our collective culinary knowledge as it builds everyone’s repertoire and nourishes our imagination. Anticipation: what a delicious word! When used in the context of food, it conjures up savory and sweet sensations, a promising taste of things to come … the aroma of a freshly baked, fruit-filled pie, the tang in the air as cranberries pop and release their fragrance, the sizzle in a pan as shallots sauté, the fresh fragrant burst of chopped herbs, the melting butter in pillowy mashed potatoes. All this anticipation starts with the raw ingredients. If you wind back the highlight reel that is the finished spread of a holiday feast, for example, it begins with the shopping, the choosing of just the right vegetables, fruit, piece of fish or meat. It is in the very act of gathering that we fuel our imagination and get those gustatory juices flowing. Opposite: Wild Mushroom and Persimmon Ragout.
C AROLE TOPALIAN MEDIA 27
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 67
Have you ever spied the first pomegranates or persimmons of the season and jumped at the chance to make something with them? I do. I often get carried away at the market, seduced by the light filtering through the market umbrellas, entranced by the color and fragrance of sweet blood oranges, tempted by cascades of golden crunchy persimmons, bushels of Brussels sprouts, elegant long thin leeks, waterfalls of pale parsnips, sudden sproutings of wild mushrooms after the first rains of the season, and intrigued by knobbly mounds of Jerusalem artichokes and exquisitely beautiful Fibonnaci-esque Romanesco broccoli. These sights and aromas make me want to jump into the kitchen and get cooking. Coming home with laden baskets, the serious task of preparing these feasts begins in earnest. At home this usually means making stocks for soups and sauces and shaping dough for tarts and pies the day before the main event. Over a cup of coffee early on Thanksgiving morning I’ll write out the prep list, haul out the ingredients from the packed fridge and get started. I begin with the stuffing whilst my daughter makes the cranberry coulis. As we chop and stir, the kitchen fills with the aroma of sautéed onions, the spritz of orange zest and the sound of sizzling spicy sausages. We always chat about past meals—our favorite part of the day—and of course constantly review the menu taking shape in our hands. Phone calls come in from around the country from friends and family. I am always struck by the connective thread that ties us all together as we all prepare this meal, even if we are thousands of miles apart. The flurry of activity builds to a crescendo as the dinner hour approaches: The turkey is roasting, succulent smells drift through the house, potatoes are mashed, vegetables are seasoned and salads arranged. The guests arrive, we gather around the table and the feast begins. This annual ritual—the shopping, the laying of the table, the cooking, the gathering together and feasting—is at the very essence of its appeal. There may be slight variations but the dependable tradition and the array of dishes is an anchor for many of us. A few years ago I retraced my journey to the Alps and Briançon with my son. He had heard stories about my grandparents, especially about the meals around their table. We even found Craquelin, which I toasted, slathered with butter and jam. It didn’t quite taste the same to me though. I pondered this as we munched on. We were not in my grandparents’ home, nor was the jam made from the fruit in their garden. Yet he now savors this sensory memory as part of the culinary traditions of our family. Does the memory of a dish make it taste better? Or does it just evolve with time? The two Marcels—Proust and Pagnol—penned lyrical prose about the delights of gastronomic familial gatherings. Pagnol in his evocative descriptions of Mediterranean feasts in La Gloire de Mon Pere and Le Chateau de Ma Mere and Proust, famously for, amongst other things, dipping madeleines in tea. 68 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
I realized that the delight we take in those memories is not just in the taste of the food itself, but the context in which they were experienced. As Julian Barnes wrote in Flaubert’s Parrot, “Happiness lies in the imagination, not the act. Pleasure is found first in anticipation, later in memory.”
Recipes Wild Mushroom and Persimmon Ragout (page 67) As often happens, I will read about a dish or see a tempting photograph that makes me think, “I have to try this.” About a year ago, I came across a recipe that called for mushrooms and persimmons. The flavor combination sounded intriguing, but persimmons were not in season. Months later, the market was filled with these lovely fruit and I thought, “Ooh, I know—I’ll make that dish.” But could I find that recipe? No! I searched high and low, but to no avail. Finally, I set about creating my own version. Thank you, whoever you are, for putting these two items together and inspiring me. The combination is terrific! Makes 8 servings 4 tablespoons butter 5 King Trumpet mushrooms, halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced on the bias 4 ounces Shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps sliced in half if small or in strips if large 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 bunch small green onions, thinly sliced 1 large Fuyu persimmon, halved, then thinly sliced 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped 1 tablespoon lemon thyme, chopped Salt and black pepper
In a large skillet, heat half the butter until it begins to foam. Add half the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until they are just browned. Remove from the skillet and place in a large serving bowl. Repeat with the remaining butter and mushrooms. Heat the olive oil in the same skillet. Add the red and green onions, stirring frequently, about 3–4 minutes or until the onions are soft. Add the persimmon slices, oregano and thyme, stirring gently, and continue to cook the mixture another 3 minutes. Transfer the onion-persimmon mixture to the bowl of cooked mushrooms. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and combine gently. Serve warm.
Roasted Duck with Apples, Parsnips and Leeks A lot of people tell me that they never cook duck because it’s too difficult and too messy. Eat it, yes; cook it, never. There is an easy solution: duck legs. They are quick to prepare and the result is rich, succulent and buttery. Duck pairs well with fruit. The sweetness of the fruit cuts the richness of the duck meat. Add to this the earthiness of the parsnips, the melting sweet onion flavor of the leeks, and you have the makings of a scrumptious autumnal meal. The dish multiplies easily in case you’re having masses of people over for dinner and it can be prepared well in advance, leaving you time to chat with your guests. I like to serve this with a little green or watercress salad. Makes 8 servings 8 duck legs, trimmed of excess fat 1 tablespoon herbes de Provence Coarse salt Black pepper 4 medium apples, peeled, cored and cut into eighths 8–10 small parsnips, peeled and halved lengthwise, then thickly sliced 1 large or 2 medium leeks, rinsed clean, ends trimmed then cut into ½-inch-thick slices Olive oil 1 tablespoon herbes de Provence or vegetable herb mix
Preheat oven to 400°. Place the duck legs in a shallow roasting pan, skin side up. Sprinkle with herbes de Provence, a pinch of salt and some freshly ground black pepper. Roast the duck legs in the center of the oven for 1 hour. Place the apples, parsnips and leeks in a separate roasting pan or on a rimmed baking sheet, and drizzle with a little olive oil. Sprinkle with the dried herbs and a pinch of salt. Toss to coat well. Roast in the oven, on the lower rack, for 45 minutes. To serve, divide the vegetable mixture between 8 dinner plates and place a MEDIA 27
duck leg on top of the vegetables. Serve immediately.
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Pear Clafoutis When I hear the word clafoutis, I think of my grandmother and my aunt. Both made the classic version with cherries and also a version with apricots. I adore them both. I’ve tried many fruits, including peaches, nectarines, plums and berries, but my new favorite is made with pears. It’s fantastic. You know how some pears have that slightly grainy texture? Well, it’s the perfect foil for the creaminess of a clafoutis batter. This is a dessert that will make you smile, and if there’s any left in the morning, it’s pretty good alongside a cup of coffee. Makes 8–10 servings 3 cups milk 8 ounces sugar (1 cup plus 2 tablespoons) 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped out (pods can be saved for another use), or 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 3 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour (⅔ cup) 5 large eggs 5–6 pears, peeled, cored and chopped into ¾-inch chunks
Preheat oven to 400°. In a medium-sized saucepan, heat the milk, sugar and vanilla. Stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Remove from the heat and set aside. Place the flour in a separate bowl and whisk in 1 egg at a time. The batter should be completely smooth. Slowly stir in the milk mixture. The batter should be very liquid and free of any lumps. Place the pears in a shallow 12-inch round or oval baking dish. Pour the batter over the fruit.
“The idea of waiting for something makes it more exciting.” — Andy Warhol
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Place on the center rack of the oven and bake for 45 minutes. The clafoutis is done when the custard jiggles slightly and is almost set. It will continue to cook after you remove it from the oven. The top should be golden brown. Serve at room temperature.
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Taking a stroll at the farmers market is the perfect way to get inspired with the season’s bounty every week at one of our area’s six markets. Be sure to mark your calendar for this Summer’s Special Cooking Demo.
Saturday, November 10 Sansum Clinic Presents: Farmers Market Cooking Demos Join Edible Santa Barbara and Sansum Clinic this quarter for live cooking demonstrations at the Farmers Market by some of our favorite local chefs, physicians and nutrition experts. You will learn about making food choices for optimal health and discover new techniques for preparing seasonal offerings. Demos will be held at 10am, 11am and Noon.
6 Markets • 6 Days a Week • Rain or Shine T H U R S D AY S
S AT U R D AY S
T U E S D AY S
Downtown Santa Barbara
Old Town Santa Barbara 500 & 600 Blocks of State Street 4:00pm – 7:30pm
800 Block of Linden Avenue 3:00pm – 6:30pm
S U N D AY S
W E D N E S D AY S
F R I D AY S
Corner of Santa Barbara & Cota Street 8:30am – 1:00pm
Camino Real Marketplace In Goleta at Storke & Hollister 10:00am – 2:00pm
(805) 962-5354
Solvang Village
Copenhagen Drive & 1st Street 2:30pm – 6:30pm
SBFarmersMarket.org
Carpinteria
Montecito
100 & 1200 Block of Coast Village Rd. 8:00am – 11:15am
facebook.com/SBFarmersMarket
Sansum Clinic’s health education programs are designed and conducted by board-certified physicians, registered dietitian nutritionists, registered nurses, certified diabetes educators, physical therapists and other specialized professionals. Many programs are free of charge and are open to all members of our community.
SansumClinic.org
FALL W HARVEST INTER & ED HOLIDAY IBLE EV Edible E N T Events S OCTOBER 1–31 Eat Local Challenge Edible Santa Barbara presents the 10th annual Eat Local Challenge for the month of October. CHALLENGE We encourage you to take a pledge to eat and drink local foods for 31 days. Visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com for projects, tips and recipes throughout the month of October. e Santa Barba ibl ra Ed
OC T O B ER
OCTOBER 2018
T U ES D AY
F R I D AY – S U N D AY
OCTOBER 2
OCTOBER 5–7
Cook the Farmers Market
California Avocado Festival
5:30pm at Wine Therapy in Santa Barbara Join farmer and chef Michelle Aronson of Farm Belly for a farmers market tour and hands-on cooking class. Walk the market, meet local farmers and learn how to shop for the best local produce the Central Coast has to offer. A hands-on cooking class will hone your knife skills and create a beautiful, seasonal dish inspired by our farmers market bounty. $55; tickets at FarmBelly.com.
Linden Ave., Carpinteria One of the largest free festivals in California with over 75 music acts on four stages. Come celebrate the importance of the avocado to the Carpinteria Valley. Avo Expo Tent, Largest Avocado Contest and World’s Largest Vat of Guacamole are just a few things not to miss. Come hungry and enjoy some avocado creations. Free; AvoFest.com.
SATU RDAY
S AT U R D AY
S AT U RD AY
OCTOBER 13
OCTOBER 13
OCTOBER 13
Santa Barbara Wine & Seafood Pairing
Santa Barbara Harbor & Seafood Festival
2–5pm on First St., downtown Solvang
Noon–3pm at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum
10am–5pm at 132-A Harbor Way Santa Barbara
Join us as we celebrate fall and local seafood on the museum patio overlooking the Santa Barbara Harbor. Enjoy local wine paired with small bites by restaurants The Monarch, Corazon Cucina, Bluewater Grill and Michael’s Catering. $30 in advance, $40 at the door; SBMM.org or 805 456-8747 for tickets.
Seafood lovers of all ages can go to the Harbor for delectable regional seafood specialties, cooking demonstrations, interactive maritime education, boat rides, live music and more. Free admission. HarborFestival.org
Solvang Stomp Celebrate the annual wine harvest in the Santa Ynez Valley with a traditional grape stomp, sip from dozens of Santa Barbara County’s best wineries, savor locally prepared food, drink pink in the I Love Rosé lounge and dance the afternoon away. $100 VIP; $75 GA; SolvangUSA. com/Stomp for tickets.
S AT U R D AY
S U N D AY
S AT U R D AY
WE D N ES D AY
OCTOBER 13
OCTOBER 14
OCTOBER 20
OCTOBER 24
Real Men Cook
Vineyard Walk with Nick de Luca
6–10pm at Flag Is Up Farms in Solvang This event, often referred to as “The Party of the Year,” raises much-needed funds for Santa Ynez Valley arts education nonprofit Arts Outreach. Up to 60 amateur chefs will show off their culinary skills as they serve up tastes of their carefully prepared dishes. $65. To purchase tickets, visit ArtsOutreach.com.
F E B R U A RY
10am–noon at the Alma Rosa Estate Join the winemaker on a walk through the El Jabali Vineyard at Alma Rosa Estate, up to the caracole and back to the recently renovated Alma Rosa Ranch House. Taste wine from the Estate Vineyard along the way. Light snacks at the Ranch House. $25 GA; $15 Heritage Collective Members. Reservations required; more info at AlmaRosaWinery. com/Events.
The Feast of Apicius
Santa Maria Empty Bowls
2–5pm at the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History
11:30am and 12:30pm seatings at Santa Maria Fairpark
This delicious wine and food pairing event is the first of its kind in Santa Barbara as it honors the first century AD epicure Marcus Gavius Apicius. His passion for food inspired the world’s first cookbook, De Re Coquinaria. Sample chef-prepared appetizers adapted from this cookbook alongside regional wine. More info and tickets at Meetup.com/ Inside-Wine-Santa-Barbara/.
For a $25 ticket donation, Empty Bowls guests choose a beautiful handmade bowl, enjoy a simple meal of soup, bread and water and take home the bowl as a reminder of the meal’s purpose: to feed the hungry in our community. Proceeds benefit the Foodbank of Santa Barbara County. Purchase tickets online at FoodbankSBC.org or 805 937-3422 x 104 or at the Foodbank in Santa Maria.
THU RSDAY
THUR SD AY
S U N D AY
WED N E S D AY
OCTOBER 25
OCTOBER 25
OCTOBER 28
OCTOBER 31
Edible Santa Barbara Supper Club at The Gathering Table
Wine Talk Wednesday: Katy Rogers and Adam McHugh
Edible Santa Barbara Release Party at Hitching Post Wines
3–6pm at Here’s the Scoop in Montecito
6pm at The Gathering Table in Ballard Join us for a special Eat Local Supper Club at The Gathering Table inside the Ballard Inn. Chef Budi Kazali will create a special menu showcasing the cuisine of Santa Barbara, paired with Buttonwood Farm & Winery wines. For menu, additional information and to purchase tickets, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com.
6:30–8:30pm at Alma Rosa Tasting Room, Buellton Please join us on the fourth Wednesday of each month as we host two speakers, each discussing different aspects of and sharing their knowledge and experiences in the wine industry. Hungry? Place an order with Industrial Eats to enjoy while listening to the speakers. Wine available for purchase. RSVP to Nicole@ AlmaRosaWinery.com.
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3–5pm at Hitching Post Wines, 420 E. Highway 246, Buellton Join us as we celebrate the release of the Fall issue of Edible Santa Barbara at the new Hitching Post Wines tasting room. Free to attend; food and wine available for purchase. More info at EdibleSantaBarbara.com.
Ghost Village Road Costume contest and seasonal treat “Worms & Dirt” gelato for kids in costume. Part of the “Ghost Village Road” Halloween events on Coast Village Road.
For updates and more details on these and other events, visit EdibleSantaBarbara.com
NO VMEAY MBER
FR ID AY
S U N D AY
S AT U R D AY
NOVEMBER 2
NOVEMBER 4
NOVEMBER
Tasting Menu Dinner Series
Painting in the Vineyard
7pm at The Bear and Star in Los Olivos
11am–1:30pm at Brander Vineyard
Served in the Chef’s Room every Friday night, the reservation-only dinner features a regularly changing seasonal farm and ranch-inspired menu of 5–6 courses served by our chefs, and limited to just 12 guests. For more information and tickets, TheBearAndStar.com.
This class provides a beautiful, stress-free environment that will both inspire your creative spirit and indulge the wine lover in you. Our trained artist will walk you through the entire painting process stepby-step. No previous painting experience necessary. You’ll be amazed at what you can create in just a few hours—even if you’ve never picked up a paintbrush in your life. $65; includes wine tasting and painting supplies. GypsyStudiosArt.com.
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Farmers Market Cooking Demos 10am, 11am and noon at the SB Farmers Market, at corner of Cota and Santa Barbara St. Sponsored by Sansum Clinic, the market will feature live cooking demonstrations by registered dietician Gerri French and our favorite local chefs. You’ll learn tips and techniques for preparing healthy, seasonal offerings at the market.
S U NDAY
W E D N E SD AY
T H U RS D AY
S AT U R DAY
NOVEMBER 11
NOVEMBER 14
NOVEMBER 22
NOVEMBER 24
Santa Barbara Empty Bowls Easy Thanksgiving Side Dishes 11am, noon and 1pm seatings at Ben Page Youth Center, Santa Barbara For a ticket donation of $30, guests choose a beautiful handmade bowl, enjoy a simple meal of soup, bread and water and take home the bowl as a reminder of the meal’s purpose to feed the hungry in our community. After lunch, tour the Foodbank next door and learn about ways to get involved. Tickets available at FoodbankSBC.org.
DEC EN MBER JU E
SATU RDAY
DECEMBER 8 Deck the Barrel Room Winemaker Dinner 5:30–8:30pm at Sanford Winery & Tasting Room Join us for a festive evening of extraordinary wine and paired dinner in our majestic West Barrel Room in honor of the holidays. $45/$35 Wine Club; for tickets, contact reservations@ sanfordwinery.com.
10am–2pm at the SBCC Schott Campus Enjoy this holiday season with no fuss by preparing easy side dishes ahead of time. In this hands-on cooking class you will prepare comfort food side dishes that highlight the bountiful harvest of wonderful fall vegetables. Your menu and clever new approaches to presentation will make your guests think you were a slave to the kitchen as they savor each bite of your easy side dishes. $46; SBCCExtendedLearningFee.org.
Fall Open House
Thanksgiving Day Pumpkin Smash 10am–3:30pm at the Santa Barbara Zoo Animal lovers are encouraged to get the kids out of the house this Thanksgiving and come to the zoo for a smashin’ good time. Watch as the elephants, gorillas and other zoo animals play and interact with pumpkins. Free with zoo admission; more info at SBZoo.org.
Noon–3pm at Zaca Mesa Winery, 6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos Start your holiday shopping early at Zaca Mesa Winery on Thanksgiving weekend. Exclusive wine deals, live music on the patio and a variety of local vendors, including jewelry, chocolate and more. Free to attend; wine and food available for purchase. ZacaMesa.com.
SUN D AY
WED N E S D AY
S AT U RDAY
DECEMBER 2
DECEMBER 5
DECEMBER 8
Edible SB Holiday Pop-Up Shop
Beautiful Holiday Treats 10am–2pm at the SBCC Schott Campus
Kofta Curry: Meatballs for both Vegetarians and Non-vegetarians
1–4pm at Carr Winery Santa Barbara Featuring businesses from the Edible Gift Guide on pages 48–51, seasonal grub and wine from Carr Winery. Sip and savor as you shop for holiday gifts and meet some of Santa Barbara’s best local artisans. Free and open to the public; food and beverage for purchase.
In this class you will make and package homemade treats that people will begin to look forward to every holiday. You’ll discover what to prepare, how to prepare it and how to package the final product. Save time and money while making fabulous treats that will be long remembered and enjoyed. $36; SBCCExtendedLearningFee.org.
11am–2pm at the SBCC Schott Campus Discover the techniques, tricks and tips needed to make both vegetarian and non-vegetarian koftas, enjoyed all over India and Pakistan as a popular everyday meal option and for entertaining friends. All you need is some chappati or rice and some salad on the side. $59; SBCCExtendedLearningFee.org.
S AT U R D AY – S U N D AY
T U E S DAY
DECEMBER 8–9
DECEMBER 11
Christmas on the Trail
Sip ‘n Swirl Series: Bourbon, Cab and Bubbly
Join the Foxen Canyon wineries for this special holiday weekend event. Your $45 Passport gets you 20 one-ounce pours you can “spend” at 13 participating wineries on the famous Foxen Canyon Wine Trail. Enjoy small bites at each winery on Saturday. Come back Sunday for live music, food trucks and more. $45; for tickets, hotel deals and more info, visit https://my805tix.com/events/ FCWTChristmas2018.
5:30–7:30pm on the Canary Hotel rooftop Finch & Fork and the Canary invite you to taste some of the region’s best wines with stunning views from downtown’s premier rooftop terrace. Featuring a rotating collection of local wineries who will showcase their best. Learn about one of Santa Barbara County’s leading industries, while enjoying entertainment and a selection of premium cheeses. $35; tickets at FinchAndForkRestaurant.com.
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edible
SA NTA BARBA R A COUNT Y
E AT DRINK LOC AL GUIDE Santa Barbara County has its own unique food tradition and lifestyle. We’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants, bakeries, food producers and specialty retail shops that contribute to the distinctively Santa Barbara experience. From Ballard to Carpinteria, and from catering to wine tasting, our Guide will help you find what you are looking for and more.
Farms & Ranches Jimenez Family Farm 805 688-0597 JimenezFamilyFarm.com Small family-run local farm specializes in sustainably grown food and their famous handmade pies, quiches and small-batch preserves. Visit them at the farmers market to purchase produce, pies, jams and naturally fed and farm-raised rabbit, lamb, pork, goat and poultry.
Winfield Farm
Barbareño
Bragg Live Foods
205 W. Canon Perdido St., Santa Barbara 805 963-9591 Barbareno.com
Bragg.com
Offering an approachable take on the fine-dining experience, Barbareño highlights the traditions and specialties of the Central Coast through creative story-driven dishes and ingredients from local farmers. Sit in the main dining room and enjoy the enticing atmosphere of an open kitchen, or outside on the lush patio alongside the Santa Maria grill. Dinner nightly 5–9:30pm; closed Tue.
805 686-9312 WinfieldFarm.us
Belmond El Encanto
Taste the magic of Winfield Mangalitsa! Mangalitsa ground pork (the real hamburger) and hickory smoked bacon are now featured in the Larder Meat Company’s Larder Club meat box, delivered monthly throughout California (sign up at http://www.lardermeatco.com). You can also order through our Mangalitsa Market on the Winfield Farm website—please call first! Follow us on Facebook (WinfieldFarmBuellton), Twitter (@ WinfieldFarm.us) and Instagram (Winfield_Farm).
Dine in the elegant Dining Room or delight in a romantic dinner under the stars on The Terrace. An innovative menu presented by Chef Johan Denizot offers contemporary California-coastal cuisine, complemented with gracious service and a side of stunning Santa Barbara views. Open 7am–10pm daily.
Food & Restaurants Backyard Bowls 5668 Calle Real, Goleta, 805 770-2730 3849 State St. Santa Barbara, 805 569-0011 331 Motor Way, Santa Barbara, 805 845-5379 BackyardBowls.com Santa Barbara’s most innovative breakfast and lunch spot featuring Acai Bowls and smoothies. They also offer oatmeal, yogurt and more.
Ballard Inn & Gathering Table 2436 Baseline Ave., Ballard, 805 688-7770 BallardInn.com Elegant accommodations, attentive staff and awardwinning cuisine make the Ballard Inn & Gathering Table one of the most sought-after small luxury inns in the Santa Barbara Wine Country.
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800 Alvarado Place, Santa Barbara, 805 770-3530 Belmond.com/ElEncanto
Bob’s Well Bread 550 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-3000 BobsWellBread.com Making bread the old-fashioned way: handcrafted in small batches with the finest ingredients and baked to perfection in a custom-built stone-deck oven. Drop in to taste what visitors and journalists are raving about as “worth the drive”—signature Pain au Levain, award-winning artisanal breads, croissants and specialty pastries. All-day menu of made-to-order breakfast, lunch and weekly special dishes. Indoor-outdoor picturesque café. Thu–Mon 7am–6pm. Café closes at 3pm. Closed Tue and Wed.
Bouchon 9 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 730-1160 BouchonSantaBarbara.com Bouchon sources all of its ingredients using an “as-freshand-as-local-as-possible” approach. Experience fine dining, excellent regional wines and relaxed service in a warm, inviting ambience. Private dining in the Cork Room is available for groups of 10–20. Dinner nightly 5–10pm.
Founded in 1912 by Dr. Paul C. Bragg and now run by his daughter Dr. Patricia Bragg in Goleta, Bragg Live Food Products offers organic and natural health products and publishes self-health books. Available locally at Fairview Gardens’ Farm Stand, Lassen’s, Gladden and Sons, Tri-County Produce, Whole Foods Market, Lazy Acres and in the health section of your neighborhood grocery store.
Bree’Osh 1150 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-2500 Breeosh.com Bree’Osh is a French artisan bakery café specializing in sweet and savory brioche bread made with traditional sourdough. Featuring local, organic, high-quality ingredients. Open daily 7am–2pm. Serving breakfast and lunch daily 7am–2pm
Ca’ Dario 37 E. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 884-9419 38 W. Victoria St. (inside the Santa Barbara Public Market), 805 884-9419 250 Storke Rd., Goleta, 805 884-9419 CaDario.net Chef Dario Furlati’s flagship eatery offers a fine Italian dining experience featuring authentic recipes made with fresh, local ingredients. Handmade pastas, local seafood, weekly farmers market specials and an extensive Italian wine list. Located in the heart of the downtown Arts District. Serving lunch and dinner Sun–Thu 11:30am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm. Ca'Dario Pizzeria in the Public Market offers a casual, urban atmosphere to enjoy authentic pizzas, salads and appetizers. Open daily 11am–9pm. Ca' Dario Cucina Italiana in Goleta is open Mon–Sat 11am-9pm.
Central Coast Specialty Foods 115 E. College Ave., Ste. 10, Lompoc 805 717-7675 CentralCoastSpecialtyFoods.com High-quality local & imported specialty foods, including charcuterie, gourmet cheeses, a full-service deli, exotic meats (alligator, wild boar, bison and more), specialty foods from around the world, and local beers and
wines. Catering available; small intimate affairs to large special events. Open Mon–Wed 10am–6pm, Thu–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–6pm and Sun 10am–4pm.
Chocolate Maya 15 W. Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara, 805 965-5956 ChocolateMaya.com Chocolate Maya handmade chocolate confections: a variety of velvety truffles and chocolate-dipped temptations that are made from the highest-quality chocolate (Valrhona, Felchlin, Mesocacao including some small bean-to-bar artisans couverture) fresh local ingredients and some exotic findings from their travels overseas.
Corazón Cocina 38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-0282 CorazonCocinaSB.com Located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market, offering homemade, local, unique and fresh cocina Mexicana. Join Chef Ramón Velazquez for fresh ceviches, mouthwatering tacos and homemade agua frescas. Open daily 11am–9pm.
The Food Liaison 1033 Casitas Pass Rd., Carpinteria, 805 200-3030 TheFoodLiaison.com Catering. Counter. Classes. Utilizing many locally grown organic ingredients, enjoy daily rotating entrées and soups, seasonal menu and gourmet salad bar. Corporate and event catering since 2013. Sign up for cooking classes online. Lunch counter Mon–Fri 11am–3pm.
Giannfranco’s Trattoria 666 Linden Ave., Carpinteria, 805 684-0720 Giannfrancos.com Experience authentic Italian regional cuisine at this family-owned and family-operated trattoria in downtown Carpinteria. Chef Giovanni prepares each dish from the freshest local and imported foods to offer his creative take on Tuscan grill specialties. Weekday lunch served 11am–3pm. Weekend lunch served noon–3pm. Dinner served 5–9pm; closed Tue.
Here’s the Scoop 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-7020 ScoopSB.com Here’s the Scoop is a local, family-owned business that makes traditional Italian gelato flavors like Stracciatella and Pistachio. Their seasonal farmers market sorbets use local, organic farm-fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs. Sorbets are non-dairy, organic and vegan. Mon–Thu 1–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–9pm.
Hilton Garden Inn and Valle Eatery & Bar 1201 North H. St., Lompoc, 805 735-1880 HGILompoc.com Offering 156 contemporary and spacious rooms, large and elegantly appointed suites, premium fiber Internet access, event space and full service restaurant just steps away from Santa Barbara Wine Country. Local Executive Chef, Conrad Gonzales, combines big city flavors with seasonal local produce and acclaimed wines from local vintners. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Offering a full service bar featuring Santa Barbara County wine and beer from California.
The Hitching Post II 406 E. Hwy. 246, Buellton, 805 688-0676 HitchingPost2.com A favorite of locals and visitors since 1986. Serving wood-grilled fare, prepared in the regional barbecue tradition, along with their highly regarded Hitching Post Wines. Casual and relaxed setting.
Il Fustino
Pico at The General Store
3401 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-3521 38 W. Victoria St. (located inside the Santa Barbara Public Market), 805 845-4995 ilFustino.com
458 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1122 LosAlamosGeneralStore.com
Il Fustino is Santa Barbara’s first and finest olive oil and vinegar tasting room. Il Fustino purveys only the finest and freshest olive oils, all grown and milled in California. They also provide an unparalleled selection of artisan vinegars.
Pico at the Los Alamos General Store brings a culinary, wine and shopping experience to “Little LA” in the heart of Santa Barbara’s Wine Country. Chef Drew Terp offers a menu of approachable California cuisine sourced from locally-farmed, seasonal ingredients. Open Tue–Thu 3–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–10pm, Sun noon–9pm; Happy Hour 4–5pm.
Lazy Acres
Pig & Butter
302 Meigs Rd., Santa Barbara, 805 564-4410 LazyAcres.com
323 362-6354 PigAndButter.com
Santa Barbara’s best source for wholesome, natural and organic foods and products with real people dedicated to providing unmatched personal service. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm, Sun 7am–10pm.
Pig & Butter focuses on both quality and merging flavors to make unique, delectable dishes. All dishes are crafted with meticulousness and love. Offering catering, chef’s tables and cooking classes.
The Little Door SB
Plow to Porch
129 E. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara, 805 560-8002 TheLittleDoorSB.com
805 895-7171 PlowToPorch.com
Featuring a charming outdoor patio overlooking the Spanish Colonial architecture of the renowned Courthouse. Offers a magical ambiance and sense of communion around the table. Executive chef Oscar Ledesma draws inspiration from the farmers market and French Mediterranean flavors to accentuate his contemporary American fare. Open Wed–Thur 5–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm, Sun 11am–3pm; Happy Hour 4:30–6:30pm.
Plow to Porch Organics is a local organic/pesticide-free produce and grocery delivery service to members who subscribe. They simplify the purchase of local fresh organic produce and other organic, local foods in order to inspire good nutrition, support local farmers, protect the environment and make eating healthy food fun!
McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams 120 State St., Suite B, Santa Barbara 728 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 324-4402 McConnells.com McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams, founded in Santa Barbara in 1949, is now in its third generation of family ownership. They make their ice creams as they always have: from scratch, using Central Coast, grass-grazed milk, cream and the finest local, sustainable and organic ingredients from partner farms, artisans and purveyors they’ve worked with for decades. No preservatives. No stabilizers. No additives. Ever. A 70-year sweet legacy of keeping it real.
Montecito Country Mart 1016 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805 969-9664 MontecitoCountryMart.com The Montecito Country Mart has been renovated and preserved, with its original barbershop, post office, market and old-fashioned toy store, as well as Rori’s Artisanal Creamery, Bettina, Merci, Caffe Luxxe, CO Collections, Kendall Conrad, Little Alex’s, Malia Mills, Hudson Grace, James Perse and Space NK Apothecary. Open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun 10am–5pm.
Montecito Village Grocery 1482 E. Valley Rd., Montecito, 805 969-1112 MontecitoGrocery.com Offering local and organic produce, full service butcher and deli, gourmet cheese, chef prepared dishes, amazing wines and craft beers. Great selection of non-dairy, gluten free, vegetarian and vegan products. Convenient parking and friendly staff. Open daily 7am–8pm.
Olive Hill Farm 2901 Grand Ave., Los Olivos, 805 693-0700 OliveHillFarm.com Specializing in local olive oils, flavored oils and balsamic vinegars as well as many locally produced food products. Olive oil and vinegar tastings with fresh local bread available. Open daily 11am–5pm.
Renaud’s Patisserie & Bistro 3315 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 569-2400 1324 State St., Santa Barbara, 805 892-280 1187 Coast Village Rd., Montecito RenaudsBakery.com Renaud’s is a bakery specializing in French pastries and French-style cakes, as well as a bistro offering an extensive menu for breakfast and lunch. Open Mon–Sat 7am–5pm; Sun 7am–3pm.
Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Market 805 962-5354 SBFarmersMarket.org
Six markets, six days a week. Schedule on page 71.
Savoy Café & Deli 24 W. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 962-6611 TheSavoyCafe.com A family owned and operated café featuring scratch cooking. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner for the past 12 years. Award-winning salad bar, bakery, soup, hot and cold prepared foods, coffee and tea bar and excellent selection of wines by the glass. Cozy atmosphere, dog friendly patio. Open Mon–Sat 7–9pm, Sun 8am–8pm.
Scratch Kitchen 610 N. H St., Lompoc, 805 819-0829 Scratch-Kitchen.com With a wealth of local and seasonal produce and local wines, Scratch Kitchen aims to highlight all the best culinary elements of the Lompoc and Santa Ynez Valleys. Open for lunch and dinner Tue–Sat 11am–9pm, brunch Sun 10am–2pm and Sun dinner 5pm–9pm.
Solvang Olive Company 1578 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 213-1399 SolvangOliveCo.com Solvang Olive features locally grown olive oils, fruit and balsamic vinegar and hand-crafted gourmet olives. The Solvang store also carries olive oil beauty products, tableware and cooking ingredients created by Californian artisans. Tasting room open Wed–Thu 10am–4pm, Fri–Sun 9am–5pm.
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Straus Family Creamery
Babcock Winery & Vineyards
CrossHatch Winery
707 776-2887 StrausFamilyCreamery.com
5175 E. Hwy. 246, Lompoc, 805 736-1455 BabcockWinery.com
Founded in 1994, Straus Family Creamery is a missiondriven, family-owned and -operated business dedicated to making premium organic dairy products, with minimal processing.
A passion for revolutionary farming and conservation continue to define this family-owned Sta. Rita Hills winery. Stunning single-vineyard Pinot Noirs are showcased alongside acclaimed Chardonnays and other varietals. Chill in the super soulful tasting room filled with vintage art and eclectic treasures. Tasting room open daily 11am–5:30pm.
436 Alisal Rd. (in the windmill), Solvang 805 691-9192 CrosshatchWinery.com
Succulent Café Wine Charcuterie 1555 Mission Dr., Solvang, 805 691-9444 SucculentCafe.com Comfort food with a twist, prepared with seasonal and local farm-fresh ingredients. The best charcuterie plates around feature farm-fresh cheese, house-made jam, pickled vegetables, nuts and fruit. Great local wine, craft beer and signature cocktails. Open Mon, Wed–Fri 10am–9pm, Sat–Sun 8:30am–9pm; Happy Hour 3–5pm; Closed Tuesday.
Babi’s Beer Emporium 380 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1911 BabisBeerEmporium.com
The Wine Cask
Great beer. Impeccable selection. Great fun. Adventurous beer drinkers can discover unique, hardto-find craft beers, ciders and special projects—on tap or in bottle. Stay to have a bite from Valle Fresh’s tacos and tapas menu. Thu 4–8pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm, Sun noon–6pm.
813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 966-9463 WineCask.com
Buttonwood Farm Winery
The Wine Cask Restaurant features the freshest local ingredients, the best wine list in town and seasonal signature cocktails. They offer fine dining in their exquisite Gold Room and casual dining in the courtyard and at their Intermezzo bar. Lunch: Tue–Fri 11:30am– 3pm. Dinner: Tue–Sun from 5:30pm. Last seating at 9pm Sun–Thu and at 10pm Fri–Sat.
Wine & Beer Alma Rosa Winery 250 Industrial Way A, Buellton, 805 688-9092 AlmaRosaWinery.com Alma Rosa wines express the distinctive spirit and character of the soils, sun exposure, fog, cooling winds and over four decades of experience in this beautiful Sta. Rita Hills sub-region of Santa Barbara wine country. Tasting room open Fri–Sun 11am–5:30pm; Mon–Thur noon–5:30pm.
Andrew Murray Vineyards 5249 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos, 805 686-9604 AndrewMurrayVineyards.com Andrew Murray, a grape-growing pioneer and Rhône varietal visionary in Santa Barbara County, founded his winery in 1990. Andrew and his team look forward to sharing the AMV experience with you at their stunning Estate Winery and Visitor Center along Foxen Canyon Road. Tasting room open daily 10:30am–5:30pm.
Au Bon Climat 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-7999 AuBonClimat.com
1500 Alamo Pintado Rd., Solvang, 805 688-3032 ButtonwoodWinery.com
Dreamcôte strives to produce 600 cases of delicious, fruit-forward wines—fresh and juicy as the day they were picked. The tasting room is casual, fun and all welcoming. Come taste a unique selection of craft wines plus hard apple ciders alongside fun flavored popcorn. Open Thu–Mon 11am–5pm.
Foxen Vineyard & Winery 7200 and 7600 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-4251 FoxenVineyard.com
Cambria Estate Winery
300 N. 12th St., Unit 1A, Lompoc 805 819-1372 KitaWines.com
5475 Chardonnay Ln., Santa Maria, 805 938-7318 CambriaWines.com Family-owned, sustainably farmed estate winery. Visit and experience the flavors of the Santa Maria Bench. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Viognier and Syrah. Open daily 10am–5pm.
Carr Winery 414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 965-7985 CarrWinery.com Carr specializes in limited-production wines including Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Gris and Cabernet Franc. Enjoy the ambiance of a working winery while sipping delicious wines on the patio or at the barrel-top bar. Wine tasting, wine on tap and wines by the glass served daily. Monthly art shows and live music. Daily 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm.
Carr Warehouse 3563 Numancia St., Santa Ynez 805 688-5757 CarrWinery.com
August Ridge Vineyards
388 Bell St., Los Alamos, 805 344-1900 CasaDumetzWines.com
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2933 San Marcos Ave., Los Olivos, 805 691-1200 DreamcoteWines.com
The Foxen Boys’ winery and tasting room features Burgundian and Rhône-style wines. Visit the historic shack “Foxen 7200” for Italian and Bordeaux-style wines. Picnic tables and scenic views at both locations. Open 11am–4pm daily.
Carr Winery’s 3,800-square-foot tasting room and wine warehouse is where all of the Carr Wines are waxed and bottle aged. The tasting room has an open floor plan with a U-shaped bar and booths, perfect for large groups. Enjoy wine tasting and wines by the glass. Daily 11am–6pm.
August Ridge crafts wine that combines the spirit of California with the restrained, classic elegance of wines from northern and central Italy. Distinctive wines from the Paso Robles region to be opened as you gather for a meal, surrounded by friends, family and loved ones. Tasting room open Sun–Mon, Wed–Thu noon–7pm, Fri–Sat noon–8pm. Happy Hour Mon and Wed 3–6pm. Closed Tuesday.
Dreamcôte
In 1968 Betty Williams came to Buttonwood, creating a life that found expression through a connection with the land. The vineyard now has 33,000 vines with a mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Tasting room open daily 11am–5pm.
The tasting room and the Jim Clendenen Wine Library are known for world-class Chardonnays and Pinots. Jim Clendenen has been making wines of vision and character for over 30 years, along with other varietals. Amazing lineup of current releases and library wines available. Tasting room open Mon–Fri noon–6pm, Sat and Sun 11am–6pm.
5 E. Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, 805 770-8442 AugustRidge.com
Wine tasting and wines by the glass in a historical windmill featuring blends from Santa Barbara County vineyards. Stop by to enjoy the views from the patio or grab a seat at the bar. Only 800 cases produced. Sun– Mon noon–6pm, Thu–Sat noon–7pm.
Casa Dumetz A boutique winery specializing in Rhône varietals crafted with premier Santa Barbara County fruit. Their wines are sold almost exclusively at their tasting room in historic Los Alamos and through their wine club. Open Thu noon–7pm; Fri–Sat 11am–7pm; Sun 11–6pm, Mon noon–4pm. Vineyard tours and barrel sampling available by appointment.
Kitá Winery
Established in 2010 as a small, premium wine producer, Kitá’s focus is on respecting the balance of soil, climate, location and taste. The word “Kitá” means “our valley oak” in the Santa Ynez Chumash language of Samala. Tasting room opening November 2018.
Lama Dog 116 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara 805 880-3364 LamaDog.com Craft beer taproom and bottle shop located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. Open Sun–Wed 11:30am–10pm, Thu 11:30am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. @lamadog
Longoria Wines 415 E. Chestnut Ave., Lompoc, 866-759-4637 LongoriaWine.com Longoria Wines is a small family-owned winery with over three decades of producing acclaimed artisanal wines from some of the finest vineyards in Santa Barbara County. Enjoy a tasting or a glass of wine in the tasting room or lounge of the restored historic JM Club at their new winery facility in Lompoc, open daily 11am–4:30pm.
Margerum Wine Company 813 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-8435 59 Industrial Way, Buellton, 805 686-8500 MargerumWines.com Located in the historic El Paseo complex, Margerum offers two venues for tasting in Downtown Santa Barbara. Enjoy a tasting (or a glass) of handcrafted, small production Margerum and Barden wines sourced from top vineyards around Santa Barbara County. Open Mon–Wed noon–5pm, Thu–Sun noon–6pm. Margerum also now offers tasting at their winery on Industrial Way in Buellton. Taste Margerum and Barden releases, sample wine from tank or barrel and tour the winery. Open Sat–Sun noon–5pm.
Martian Ranch & Vineyard
Wine Collector’s Room
9110 Alisos Canyon Rd., Los Alamos 805 344-1804 MartianVineyard.com
414 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 689-3569 WineCollectorsRoom.com
The Martian Ranch tasting room is open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Taste their estate-grown biodynamically farmed wines for an out-of-this-world experience! Winery tours daily; vineyard tours on the weekends. Enjoy wines by the glass, bocce court, horseshoe pit and dog-friendly picnic areas. Open Wed–Sun 11am–5pm. Mon and Tues by appointment only.
Santa Barbara’s newest private wine storage facility. The Wine Collector’s Room has over 40 private, climatecontrolled lockers and a members-only lounge. Daily 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–6pm.
The Wine Shepherd
Professional Services American Riviera Bank 525 San Ysidro Rd., Montecito, 805-335-8110 AmericanRivieraBank.com 1033 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara 805 965-5942 AmericanRivieraBank.com
137 Anacapa St., Ste. C., Santa Barbara 805 324-4100 6020 Foxen Canyon Rd., Santa Maria 805 937-8340 Riverbench.com
The Wine Shepherd is a cozy wine bar and retail shop featuring local and international wines with a focus on rare, esoteric and old vintage bottles. Located next to The Black Sheep Restaurant in Santa Barbara’s Presidio neighborhood. Open Tue–Sun noon–10pm.
Offering a local and sustainable approach to banking. The founders of American Riviera Bank are a carefully selected group of successful, prominent, experienced and influential community and business leaders who understand the unique needs of the Santa Barbara community. Montecito branch open Mon–Thu 9am–5pm; Fri 9am–5:30pm. Santa Barbara branch open Mon–Thu 8am–5pm, Fri 8am–6pm.
Established in 1973, when the first Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes were planted on the property. For years since then, some of the most renowned wineries have purchased Riverbench fruit for their wines. In 2004, Riverbench began producing their own still and sparkling wines in limited quantities, with many available exclusively through their tasting rooms in Santa Maria and Santa Barbara. Open in Santa Barbara 11am–6pm daily. Open in Santa Maria 10am–4pm daily.
Zaca Mesa Winery
The Foodbank of Santa Barbara County
6905 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos 805 688-9339 ZacaMesa.com
805 967-5741 FoodbankSBC.org
Riverbench Vineyard & Winery
Savoy Wines 18 W. Anapamu St., Santa Barbara 805 962-5353 SavoyWinesSB.weebly.com Locally owned and operated, Savoy Wines is Santa Barbara’s go-to wine shop. Boasting an extensive local and import selection, the shop offers one-ofa-kind ambiance, with knowledgeable, friendly and outgoing staff to assist you in finding that perfect bottle, in a relaxed vibe, smack dab in the middle of downtown Santa Barbara. Open Mon–Sat 11am–7pm, Sun noon–6pm.
Sevtap Winery 1622 Copenhagen Dr, Solvang 308 N. 9th St. #A/B, Lompoc 805 693-9200 SevtapWinery.com The Bordeaux destination in the Santa Ynez Valley. Come share vintner Ertugrul “Art” Sevtap’s dream to bring forth world-class Bordeaux-style wines that reflect the unique minerals and organic material of California’s Central Coast. Solvang tasting room open Sun–Fri 11am–7pm, Sat 11am–9pm; Lompoc tasting room open Fri–Sun 11am–4pm.
Telegraph Brewing Co. 418 N. Salsipuedes St., Santa Barbara 805 963-5018 TelegraphBrewing.com Handcrafting unique American ales that embrace the heritage of California’s early brewing pioneers and use as many locally grown ingredients as possible. Visit the tasting room, open Tue–Thu 3–9pm; Fri–Sat 2–10pm; Sun 1–7pm. Telegraph beer is available at many restaurants and grocery stores in Santa Barbara County and throughout California.
30 E. Ortega St., Santa Barbara, 805 963-1012 WineShepherdSB.com
Since 1973, Zaca Mesa Winery has crafted distinctive wines from their unique mesa-top vineyard. As an early pioneer of the region, they now have 150 acres planted, specializing in the production of estate-grown Rhônestyle wines. Tasting room and picnic area open daily 10am–4pm. Call for more information on winery tours and private event space.
Specialty Retail Arvind Group 917 301-2413 ArvindGroupWholesale.com Specializing in flatware, glasses, pizza and pasta plates, ice buckets and more. View the catalog online and call for pricing and ordering.
CBD & Honey Body Care by Life Elements 805 423-6529 CBDNHoney.com Life Elements CBD & Honey body care soothes aches and pains, relieves inflammation, hydrates and repairs dry skin. Locally handcrafted with organic, full spectrum hemp-derived CBD and pure bee goodness of beeswax, honey, propolis, royal jelly and pollen. A natural health alternative for your medicine cabinet.
Grapeseed Company 120 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara 4193 Carpinteria Ave. #6, Carpinteria 805 456-3655 TheGrapeseedCompany.com The Grapeseed Company creates botanical spa and skin care products handcrafted from the byproduct of wine plus antioxidant-rich local and organic ingredients. Open in Santa Barbara noon–8pm daily and in Carpinteria Mon–Fri 10:30am–5:30pm, Sat noon–5pm.
Tecolote Bookstore 1470 E. Valley Rd., Montecito 805 969-4977 Tecolote Bookstore is an independent bookstore located in the upper village of Montecito. Open Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm; Sat 10am–5pm; closed Sun.
Working every day to move people from hunger into health. The mission of the Foodbank is to provide nourishment to those in need by acquiring and distributing safe nutritious foods via local agencies and providing education to solve hunger and nutrition problems in Santa Barbara County.
On Q Financial 1332 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara, 805 845-0694 OnQFinancial.com Since 2013, On Q Financial’s goal has been to ensure the mortgage process is streamlined and smooth for every client. Their team even works closely with community partners to provide homebuyers’ workshops to the Santa Barbara community. They are ready to help you purchase a home or refinance your existing home loans—in Santa Barbara and beyond.
Sansum Clinic SansumClinic.org Sansum Clinic’s health education programs are designed and conducted by board-certified physicians, registered dietitian nutritionists, registered nurses, certified diabetes educators, physical therapists and other specialized professionals. Many programs are free of charge and are open to all members of our community.
SBCC Foundation 805 730-4401 SBCCFoundation.org The SBCC Foundation was established in 1976 to provide Santa Barbara City College with private philanthropic support. The foundation acts in partnership with the college and bridges the gap between available public funding and institutional need, as determined by the college leadership. The SBCC Foundation provides more than $4 million annually for student success programs, scholarships, book grants and other critical needs of the college in order to support SBCC students as they prepare for careers, transfer to four-year universities and pursue lifelong learning goals.
Visit Santa Maria SantaMariaValley.com Just like our barbecue, the recipe for our way of life requires simplicity, character, soul and a touch of spice. Hit the road and explore all you can do in and around Santa Maria Valley. You’ll find it’s the perfect home base, where you can eat, drink and do more for less.
EdibleSantaBarbara.com FALL 2018 | 77
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Don’t-Miss Dish by Liz Dodder PHOTOGRAPHY BY LIZ DODDER
Goat Cheese-Stuffed Fried Squash Blossom Taco at Valle Eatery & Bar in Lompoc and Vallefresh in Los Alamos Obsessed taco lovers know that a great taco is all about the tortilla. In Santa Barbara County, we’re in luck: We know many restaurants and taco stands that hand-make tortillas from scratch, from masa imported from Mexico. It’s the real deal. But Conrad Gonzales, the chef behind Valle Eatery & Bar in Lompoc and Vallefresh catering and taco bar in Los Alamos, is kicking that up a notch by growing traditional heirloom Mexican corn right here in Goleta (read more about this on page 22). The bright green corn has now been harvested, and Gonzales is busy processing it, grinding it into masa and making homemade tortillas from it. Don’t miss his Goat Cheese-Stuffed Fried Squash Blossom Taco on an heirloom green corn tortilla with green tomatillo sauce, pinquito beans, Cotija cheese and avocado at his eateries this fall. 80 | EDIBLE SANTA BARBARA FALL 2018
To make the dish, he rolls a small amount of pure masa into a ball, then flattens it with a tortilla press and grills each side on a griddle or cast iron skillet until browned. He stuffs squash blossoms with goat cheese, dips them in batter, then fries them in hot oil until golden. He lays a tortilla on a plate and drizzles it with tomatillo sauce, then tops it with avocado, pinquito beans, a squash blossom, Cotija cheese and epazote (a Mexican herb similar to oregano or mint) or cilantro, and the completed dish is served with lime. Liz Dodder is a drinker, eater and traveler who has eaten five kinds of foie gras in one day. She’s also a blogger, writer, photographer, recipe developer, web designer, social media maven and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). CaliCoastWineCountry.com