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edible

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD FROM

Member of edible communities

Winter 2012

SANTA FE 速 ALBUQUERQUE TAOS

edible COOKS!

TO


Enjoy Our Newly Remodeled Dining Room. Chef Gharrity’s Seasonally Inspired Menu Features New American West Cuisine.

Imagine a life without chile or chocolate … Fusion at its finest began centuries ago when Old World foods mixed with New, and ¡Buen provecho! — a cuisine was born that we eat, drink, and cherish today.

opening december 9, 2012 R E S TA U R A N T

BAR

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Open Daily 11:00am until 10:00pm 125 Eas t Palace, Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 988- 9232 | lacas as ena.com

www.InternationalFolkArt.org · (505) 476-1200 On Museum Hill in Santa Fe

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

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505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

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WINTER 2012 - edible cooks! departments 2

Letter from Editor

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Notable edibles A Day with Canal House Cooks By Kate Manchester

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Destination Neighborhood Old Town, Albuquerque By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

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liquid assets Great Cocktails for your Holiday Party By Chris Milligan

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What’s Fresh, What’s Local Maize, Corn, Chicos

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Delicious New Mexico A New Wave of Chocoholics By Brandon Stam

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Cooking Fresh Vegetarian Holidays By Kate Manchester

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Memoir Please Come Again By Elizabeth Grant Thomas

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Features

On the Cover

28 Red Tractor Farm, Corn Maiden in a Burlap Bag By Nissa Patterson

32 Firehouse Cooks, Albuquerque Fire Department Station 16 By Andrea Feucht

36 Three Generations, The Cervantes Family By Lois Ellen Frank

40 The Feasting Place By Jan Brooks

42 The Real Butcher Shop, A New Model for Food Communities By Sarah Sheesley

47 The Art of Gingerbread

Blue Corn. Photo by Stephanie Cameron

On this Page

Blue Corn in the Field. Photo by Stephanie Cameron

By Lauren Bennett

Table Hopping By Sergio Salvador

54

Eat Local Guide

56

Local heroes Awards

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


letter from the editor Almost three years ago to the day, I got an email from friend and colleague Jen Silverman about a job opportunity working for a local food magazine. The announcement was short, “must be interested in local foods and savvy with website editing and blog creation, as well as assisting the publisher with content. Position will start out at 10hrs/ week.” I sent in a resume, and later that week, I met with Kate Manchester to discuss the work. Like most jobs I’ve had and loved here in New Mexico, it started with a casual conversation at a kitchen table. What was supposed to be a short interview, turned into an afternoon long chat about everything: from the quality of light in late fall in New Mexico, to favorite farmers, to how to increase traffic, to a website to the blessings and pitfalls of collaboration in a small community. Kate and I had instant chemistry, and I left her house with bike panniers full of back issues of the magazine and a long to-do list. I started my adult life as an aspiring writer and publisher, but soon was sidetracked by good opportunities for other sorts of interesting work. My life’s work seems to come in cycles, and the second phase of writing and publishing had arrived. The opportunity to work with edible Santa Fe was so much more than a needed part-time job; it was an opportunity to reengage with some of my most deeply rooted passions—food, writing, graphic design, and media. In spite of (or perhaps because of ) the challenges of our shoe-string-budget-community-run operation, the beautiful nexus of food, creativity, and conversation has kept me coming back for more every season. Earlier this year when Kate started whispering about needing a change, I’ll admit, I was nervous about what it meant for my future with the magazine. In August, Kate, Stephanie, and Walt approached me about redefining my role, and asked if I might be interested editing edible Santa Fe. I knew I wanted to continue with the magazine, but was not expecting to be asked to contribute in such a significant way. At first I was unsure and nervous about the responsibility. And after having made it through our first issue as a new team, I am excited about the coming year and confident in our new partnership and its ability to allow edible Santa Fe to evolve. In the past three years, the conversation around local food in New Mexico has grown broader, deeper, and more nuanced. Edible Santa Fe has both been formed by and informed the discussion of the important relationships between agriculture, culture, people, food, and place. With new responsibilities at edible Santa Fe, I have a number of goals, focusing on good food, quality conversation, healthy community, and excellent writing. I hope to encourage our existing writers and photographers to take their work further, to meet new contributors, and to continue to engage with leaders, thinkers, and doers in the local food movement. I welcome feedback from you, our readers, about how I’m doing, and will do my best to continue to bring you all the parts of edible Santa Fe you have come to know and love, as well as new ways to think about, make, and share food. Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Publisher Bite Size Media, LLC

Editor Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Contributors Lauren Bennet, Jan Brooks, Andrea Feucht, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Kate Manchester, Chris Milligan, Nissa Patterson, Sergio Salvador, Sarah Sheesely, Brandon Stamm, Janet Tani

design and layout Stephanie Cameron

PHOTOGRAPHY Stephanie Cameron, Lois Ellen Frank, Sergio Salvador, Carole Topalian

web & social media editors Stephanie Cameron, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Video Producer D. Walt Cameron

ADVERTISING Sheli Armstrong D. Walt Cameron

CONTACT US: 3301-R Coors Blvd NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com

Subscribe ∙ Give a Gift Buy an Ad ∙ LETTERS 505-212-0791 or WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or e-mail us at info@ ediblesantafe.com edible Santa Fe takes pride in providing its subscribers with fast, friendly, small town service. edible Santa Fe is published four times a year, spring, summer, fall and winter, by Bite Size Media, LLC. Distribution is throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2012 All rights reserved.

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letters from the publishers I am writing my last letter to you dear readers - to thank you for seven years of kindness, trust and support for me, and for edible Santa Fe. When I launched this magazine in September 2006, my goal was to encourage an inclusive and lively community conversation around the topic of local food, and to shine the light on New Mexico food from the ground up. Because of your response to and continual support of our little magazine, I can say with great pride that we accomplished all that and then some. Ours was the thirteenth Edible publication when I launched in 2006, our nationwide Edible community has grown to 70 publications and continues to thrive in communities all over North America. Recently I sold the magazine to Stephanie and Walt Cameron, with whom I have worked closely for the last eight months. Born and raised in New Mexico, the Cameron’s have chosen edible because of their passion for the good food movement and because they believe that edible Santa Fe makes a difference in our communities. Stephanie and Walt’s combined enthusiasm for our mission and their strong professional skill set, which includes graphic design, award winning videography, photography, web and marketing savvy, make them a fine and more than capable fit. I believe they will breathe new life and excitement into edible Santa Fe, and I sincerely hope you will join me in welcoming and supporting them. New Mexico has been full of blessings for me; I've found wonderful lifelong friendships, created a publication that I am enormously proud of, met my good husband and married here. Leaving is bittersweet; I will miss the ever-clear-blue skies and sunny days, all the friends made and the unique flavors that define New Mexico—at the same time, I’m giddy with excitement to step into the next chapter of my new family's journey together. Going forward I know that wherever we land, my experience in New Mexico has deepened my well of inner resources, and equipped me with a treasure trove of tools with which to go forward. For that, I will be forever grateful. Kate Manchester

What a year this has been, a true journey of change and learning! In October of 2011, in what I like to call serendipity, we had the opportunity to meet and talk with Kate Manchester. Little did we know that conversation would lead to partnership with her a few short months later. When Walt and I met Kate that first time we knew we wanted to be a part of edible Santa Fe some way, some how. As Sarah said, it was instant chemistry for Kate, Walt, and me and we knew we wanted to work together and could do some great things with our combined talents. We are extremely proud of the work we did together this year in continuing to build a quality magazine that celebrates our community and is enjoyed by you, our readers. We did what felt like a gazillion events including our series of cooking classes which we aspire to grow into a school in 2013. And, we got the opportunity to meet some really inspiring people along the way, which is the true reward of publishing this magazine. As the fall drew near we knew that soon it would be time for Kate to pass the torch and for us to say goodbye. When we entered into partnership with Kate we knew her family and life were calling her in a different direction and eventually the magazine would become ours. Kate did truly incredible work here in New Mexico and started a conversation in 2006 that few were considering at the time. She worked tirelessly to pursue her passion and left behind an amazing legacy for us. They are big shoes to fill, but we embrace the challenge and look forward to continuing edible Santa Fe for many more years to come. We are thrilled to have Sarah as our new editor and know that she brings so much to this conversation and our mission to tell the story of local food. Stephanie Cameron & Walt Cameron

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notable edibles

A Day with Canal House Cooks Christopher Hirsheimer & Melissa Hamilton By Kate Manchester

Photos by Sergio Salvador

Christopher and Melissa in Los Poblanos' Instructional Kitchen

Students spent the afternoon shooting the dishes from Canal House

In August edible Santa Fe and Los Poblanos Inn had the pleasure of hosting Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton of Canal House, for a day-long food photography and writing workshop. If you’ve ever thumbed through a Saveur Magazine then you know them both; Hirsheimer was a founding editor and is largely responsible for bringing us the gift of food photography as we know it today, Hamilton directed the test kitchen. Together, they make up the whole of Canal House, which they started in 2006 as a photo and design studio for cookbooks and magazines. Today, Canal House is an online

magazine that produces a daily email post with the day’s lunch, and three books a year with 75 seasonal recipes—always beginning with cocktails. They have no parent company, no advertising and no distribution network other than independent bookstores and the Internet. Hirsheimer and Hamilton are good cooks of the unfussy sort—their food a reflection of their practical and well-travelled selves, season and locale. Their penchant for the very best ingredients combined with real world sensibility and passion for beauty make for gorgeous and useful books, full of straightforward, delicious food.

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edible COOKS! CHICKEN ROASTED OVER POTATOES & LEMON Serves 4–6

How to Spatchcock a Chicken

Our two little apartment-size stoves at Canal House do not come with a rotisserie oven feature. So when we want to “rotisserie” a chicken, we put the bird directly on the oven rack and slide a pan of sliced crusty bread, root vegetables, or potatoes and lemons onto the rack below to catch the flavorful juices.

*A spatchcocked chicken, like a butterflied chicken, is a chicken that has had the back and breastbones removed so it can be opened and flattened like a book. This way, it cooks faster and more evenly. Here's how to do it:

When we roast a bird this way, we like to spatchcock* it—that is, split it so it lies flat, like an open book. It makes the chicken easier to handle and carve, and it cooks quicker, too. FOR THE CHICKEN 1 chicken, 3–4 pounds 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1/4–1/2 teaspoon pimentón Salt and pepper

Turn the whole chicken breast side-down and cut along one side of the backbone with the sturdiest kitchen shears you can find. Rotate the chicken and cut alongside the other side of the backbone to remove it. (Refrigerate or freeze the backbone to use for stock later.) Open the chicken like a book and find the diamondshaped breast bone. With a paring knife, cut along both sides of the breast bone. Run your fingers along either side, then pull it out, or use the kitchen shears or paring knife to carve it away from the breast meat underneath.

FOR THE POTATOES 6 medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon gold, sliced into 1/4 inch-thick rounds 1 lemon, sliced into thin rounds Leaves from 8–10 sprigs of fresh thyme 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper

Trim away any excess skin and fat, and it's ready to cook.

Place one oven rack in the upper third and another oven rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 475° F. For the chicken, use kitchen shears to cut out the backbone (save it for making stock, if you like). Rinse the chicken and pat it dry with paper towels. Spread the bird out skin side up so it lays flat. Tuck the wing tips neatly behind the wings or snip them off. Rub the olive oil all over the chicken and season it with the pimentón and salt and pepper. Set the bird aside. For the potatoes, put the potatoes, lemon, thyme, and olive oil in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper and gently mix everything together. Cover the bottom of a shallow roasting pan with the potatoes and lemon, drizzling any of the remaining olive oil from the bowl on top. Place the chicken in the oven breast side up directly on the upper rack in the oven. Put the pan of potatoes on the lower rack beneath the bird to catch the drippings. Roast the chicken and potatoes for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 400° F and continue roasting the chicken until the skin is golden brown and the thigh juices run clear when pricked, about 20 minutes. The potatoes should be browned and tender by the time the chicken is finished roasting. Leave them in the oven longer if they need more time. Lift the chicken off the rack and place it in the pan with the potatoes and lemons. Let it rest out of the oven for 10–15 minutes before carving. Serve the chicken with the potatoes and lemons. www.thecanalhouse.com

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Old Town

destination neighborhoods By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Sitting over a beer with a friend recently at the Seasons’ bar, watching the sunset illuminate the mountains, we discussed how much we liked that this was our neighborhood bar. Contrary to popular belief in Albuquerque, Old Town has more to offer than cliché tourist boutiques and over-priced New Mexican food. In fact, for those of us who live in and around the area, we know it's one of Albuquerque’s best kept secrets. A stroll through Old Town plaza, on any given evening, evokes a nostalgic portrait of an imagined New Mexico—old adobe buildings, narrow whitewashed portals strung with ristras, artisans selling silver and turquoise jewelry, and long shadows cast by coral sunsets. If you keep walking to the perimeter of the well-crafted tourist destination part of Old Town, glimmers of the new Albuquerque emerge to challenge these stereotypes.

While most Burqueños will beeline for Nob Hill or Edo for dining out, Old Town is no neighborhood to scoff at when it comes to good food. Whether you want inexpensive comfort food or haute cuisine, fresh local ingredients or something more exotic, delicious vegetarian menus or a piece of local lamb cooked to perfection, you can find it all here. Old Town offers some perfect, and affordable weekend activities. Consider taking the train from Santa Fe with your bike or biking down from your neighborhood; ride the Central bike path to Vinaigrette’s new location just east of Rio Grande for a delicious fresh salad, to Duran’s Pharmacy for top-notch classic red chile, or to Ben Michael’s for one of kind service with a smile, and perhaps a piano serenade.

Within a four-block radius, you can visit most of the major cultural institutions of the city, including Explora, the Natural History Museum, and the Albuquerque Museum. A ten-minute walk east will bring you to the Harwood Art Center, south to the Albuquerque Little Theater, and west to the Botanic Garden and Aquarium, and bosque trails.

Then you might head to Tigue Park to people watch and enjoy one of the city’s most vibrant parks, stopping in at the Albuquerque Museum for an afternoon snack at Slate at the Museum. From there you might meander into the plaza and enjoy a free early evening concert featuring a local bluegrass band or a traveling jazz trio from West Africa and stop into a gallery. You might head west on Mountain road to Montoya where you can explore Old Town Farm, buy fresh veggies for

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


dinner, and experience the richness of urban agriculture. Or you might go as far as the Botanic Gardens to stroll through lush gardens in summer, or a menagerie of twinkle lights in winter. Before you head back up the hill, you might stop into Seasons’ for an elegant meal full of amazing local ingredients downstairs, or for a great burger and a beer upstairs. What I love best about living in Old Town is that it embodies what I have come to see as the character of Albuquerque—we are a cosmopolitan farm town. We maintain deep connections to our history and roots. In this neighborhood you can see it in the architecture and in the small garden and farm plots along the acequias. We also embrace our urbanity enjoying upscale dining, dense walkable neighborhoods, and eclectic and international cultural activities. Whether you live close by, but don’t stop by often enough, or are visiting for the first time, Old Town is neighborhood to be visited, and visited again.

Old Town Neighborhood Guide Ben Michaels - A Restaurant

Duran Central Pharmacy

Authentic New Mexican Cuisine served with local, organic food in a handcrafted Adobe restaurant, built by Ben Michaels Barreras, owner and chef. The patio is available for weddings and private parties. 2404 Pueblo Bonito NW, 505-224-2817

Duran Central Pharmacy is a full service community pharmacy specializing customer service. Our services include compounding, vaccinations, and wellness counseling.

Candy Lady The Candy Lady has been a New Mexico tradition for over 30 years. It is the place to go when you are visiting Albuquerque's Old Town Plaza, when you are in the mood for that perfect treat, or when you are in need of that perfect gift. Patrons will find: over 20 flavors of fudge, a wall of black licorice, fresh dipped and glazed fruits, handmade chocolates, custom cakes, hard candy and so much more. 524 Romero NW, 505-243-6239 or 800-214-7731, www.thecandylady.com

MIX MIX is located in the heart of Old Town in Albuquerque. We carry a variety of contemporary women’s clothing, shoes and accessories, including Miss Me Jeans, Ariat Boots and Desigual! We pride ourselves on customer service.

Beyond the pharmacy… The unique restaurant and pharmacy setting of Duran Central Pharmacy is a frequent stop for locals and tourists. All of our food is made in-house, including our hand rolled tortillas. We use the leanest meat and freshest ingredients, as well as New Mexico grown chile. Our authentic New Mexican food is a local and international favorite. Be sure to browse through our aisles on the way to the restaurant. We have a large selection unique gifts, bath and body products, kitchen gadgets, imported chocolates, southwest books, and gourmet teas. We look forward to serving you!

OLD TOWN FARM

Pharmacy: Mon – Fri 8:30am – 7pm, Sat 8:30am – 3pm, Sun 10am – 1pm Restaurant: Mon – Fri 9am – 6pm, Sat 9am – 2pm, Sun Closed 1815 Central Ave NW, 505-247-4141, www.durancentralpharmacy.com

Mon – Sat 10:30am – 8pm, Sun 11am – 6pm. 2020 S Plaza NW, 505-842-8034, www.mixboutiqueabq.com

Natural Produce Weddings

Bike in Coffee

Continued on pg. 11 949 Montoya NW, Albuquerque, NM. 87104 Phone: (505) 764-9116 www.oldtownfarm.com

Ladies Apparel, Accessories Jewelry & Shoes 2020 S Plaza St. N.W., Albuquerque (in Old Town) 505.842.8034

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A

Taste of Heritage

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Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner Includes Entr茅e, Appetizer, Dessert and Non-Alcoholic Beverages Outdoor Patio or Indoor Dining

www.NewMexicoTravelBlog.com/a-taste-of-heritage

El Meze

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Old Town Neighborhood Guide Church Street Café

Plaza Don Luis

Church Street Café is located in Casa de Ruiz, right behind the San Felipe de Neri Church in Old Town Albuquerque. Casa de Ruiz has a long and distinctive history built during the founding of Albuquerque some time after 1706, making Casa de Ruiz the oldest residence in Albuquerque and one of the oldest structures in the state of New Mexico.

Plaza Don Luis Merchants:

Hispano Magazine’s has mentioned Church Street Café several times in its top 50 restaurants in the U.S. The Café specializes in Northern New Mexico cuisine. Try the Old Fashioned Chiles Rellenos or Carne Adovada. Mon – Sat, 8am – 9pm, Sun 8am – 4pm. 2111 Church St NW, 505-247-8522, www.churchstreetcafe.com

Old Town Basket & Rug Shop We have been offering a variety of southwestern gifts, home decor and souvenirs since 1973! We are locally owned and operated and provide over 10,000 square feet of amazing southwestern products. We are located on a site once occupied by part of the San Felipe de Neri church and convent. The Aceves Old Town Basket and Rug Shop retains the original high ceilings, hardwood floors and charm of days gone by. In 1994, the owner of the Basket Shop expanded the shop into his newly developed Plaza don Luis making the Basket Shop what it is today—a New Mexico treasure. 301 Romero Street NW, 505-842-8022, www.newmexicogifts.com

Old Town Farm We like to think of Old Town Farm as the “green heart of the city”. Located just west of Old Town and just east of the Rio Grande, OTF is situated on 12 acres in one of the most historic settings in New Mexico. Although Albuquerque was settled in 1706, Pueblo Indians lived and farmed here long before the Spanish arrived as evidenced by the many pot shards found while digging post holes. The Duranes Lateral, which forms the western boundary of OTF, is reputedly the oldest registered ditch in North America. To this day, the “Madre de Duranes” provides water to irrigate our pastures. 949 Montoya Street NW, 505-764-9116, www.oldtownfarm.comß

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Aceves Old Town Basket & Rug Shop Albuquerque Photographers Gallery Andrews Pueblo Pottery Red Feather Diner Red Feather Gallery Rolling 'n Dough Bakery Sun Country Gems Tours of Old Town United States Post Office Warpath Boutique Warpath Traders Weems Gallery Services Provided in Plaza Don Luis: City of Albuquerque Public Restrooms Albuquerque Convention & Visitors Bureau

• United States Post Office 303 Romero St NW, 505-401-1115, www.facebook.com/Plazadonluis

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill Seasons Rotisserie & Grill is great food and wine with a seasonal flair. Enjoy our woodfired steaks and seafood while sipping a glass of wine from our award winning wine list. Or, relax on our rooftop patio and enjoy our happy hour with a great view of Old Town, Albuquerque. Lunch Mon – Fri 11:30am – 2:30pm; Dinner daily 5pm 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100, www.seasonsabq.com

Vinaigrette A bright and lively bistro and wine bar in an historic adobe near downtown Santa Fe. Specializes in creative, gourmet entrée salads that highlight local and organic ingredients, including produce from the owner’s farm! Monday-Sunday 11am - 9pm; Closed Sunday. 1828 Central Ave. SW, 505-820-9205, vinaigretteonline.com

November 26 to December 30 Albuquerque's River of Lights Walk through a dazzling light display at Albuquerque Botanic Garden, where hundreds of thousands of twinkling lights are shaped in sculptures, scenes and holiday displays. This year's theme is a voyage beneath the sea, and lights will create a tableau of life-size creatures, from angelfish and octopus to sea turtles, humpback whales, stingrays and more. cabq.gov/biopark

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edible COOKS!

liquid assets

Great Cocktails for your Holiday Party Chris Milligan aka The Santa Fe Barman

The holiday season is here, and for many of us that means lots of parties and celebrations, paying tribute to traditions, and partaking in lots of food and drink. Corporate consumer habit begs us to take short cuts and use quick pre-packed, premade, no-muss, no-fuss stuff that really doesn’t taste that great. I mean honestly, do you really want to serve that stuff to the people you love? Convenience is one thing but, I am here to tell you making drinks from scratch is just as easy, and much tastier. The first couple of times I did holiday parties at home, I ended up making drinks all night and not getting a chance to entertain beyond the bar—it felt more like a night at work than a party. Then I realized that punches were the way to go—my guests could self-serve and I didn’t have to work without a tip jar. So here are two of my favorite holiday punch recipes I enjoy with friends and family.

SCARLET PUNCH

I like this drink during Thanksgiving. It’s a great way to start the festivities, and easy to drink while preparing the feast. 1 bottle cranberry juice 1 bottle sparking apple cider 1 tablespoon whole clove 1 tablespoon whole allspice 5 cinnamon sticks 1 orange Apples, cranberries or other decorative fruits (optional) Booze of choice (we’ll get there in a few) First make an ice mold: get a large container (1/2 a milk jug, Tupperware, plastic jello mold) and fill it 3/4 with water and set in the freezer. Toss a few cranberries and apple slices in there as well to make it decorative. Next step: In a sauté pan over medium heat, toast the spices until fragrant. Meanwhile put one container of cranberry juice in a pitcher. Once the spices are fragrant, toss them into the pitcher. Slice the orange into wheels, and add to the pitcher as well. Now put everything in the fridge for a day. To serve, pour your punch into a large bowl, add your ice mold, and top with half a bottle of sparkling cider. Have the booze to the side (and away from Uncle Jerry) so the little ones feel included. I like one ounce bourbon, and half an ounce Southern Comfort. Brandy is yummy as is spiced or gold rum.

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EGGNOG

This is a prime example of bad things in cartons. Don’t be fooled by what is passed off as eggnog in the dairy section of your average grocery store. Making eggnog from scratch takes about twenty minutes and once you’ve done it, you will never buy the stuff at the supermarket again. 4 eggs, separated 16 ounces whole milk (don’t skimp to skim) 8 ounces heavy whipping cream 6 ounces booze (brandy, rum, or bourbon—choose your favorite) 3 ounces of sugar (heaping 1/3 of a cup) 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon clove 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks with the whisk attachment in a stand mixer or use a hand mixer. Start slow and add the sugar. Turn up the speed and beat until the yolks and sugar become a pale yellow color. Turn down the speed and add the milk, cream, booze, and spices and mix for another 3 minutes. Next, with clean beaters/whisk, beat the egg whites until light peaks form (the yolks will begin to stiffen and resemble cream). With a rubber spatula, fold the egg whites in to cream mixture. Store chilled in a closed container for three weeks. To serve, pour into a wine glass or Irish coffee mug and drink! Three weeks? Remember, alcohol is a natural preservative! Now if you are nervous about raw eggs, use the same method but add this step: before folding in the egg whites, place the cream mixture in a double boiler and bring to 160°F. Chill in the fridge and once cool, continue with the egg whites. Want a couple variations? • Add a little coffee or chocolate liqueur for after dinner • Use coconut milk in place of the whole milk for a Tiki twist • For traditional Mexican Rompopé, use brandy and omit the egg whites Variations are endless. just use your imagination! Happy and safe holidays to all! Chris is the Mixologist at Secreto Lounge, Hotel St. Francis in Santa Fe and writer of the Santa Fe Barman Blog (www.santafebarman.com)

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


MOBILE SHARPENING SERVICE NEW LIFE TO OLD KNIVES Kitchen Kinves Scissors All Types Carving Tools Garden Tools Reconditioning Repairs

CUSTOM WORK Hunting Knives Chef ’s Knives Kitchen Cutlery Wood working Tools Toolmaking

SERVICE TO YOUR DOOR, OR YEAR ROUND AT THE SANTA FE FARMERS MARKET PAT ROMERO 505-577-4491

Locally and regionally grown, organic produce, groceries and meats delivered to your door. Order online for delivery or pick up. SIGN UP NOW FOR YOUR WEEKLY CUSTOMIZED HARVEST BOX. WWW.SKARSGARDFARMS.COM ∙ (505) 681-4060

Formerly Los Poblanos Organics

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012

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Distributing our products via home/office delivery. Pick-up options in Los Alamos, Santa Fe, Placitas, Rio Rancho, Albuquerque, Las Cruces, and El Paso.

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what’s fresh, what’s local: All this and more at New Mexico farmer's markets this winter.

larder BUFFALO CHEESE CHICKEN CIDER EGGS ELK GOAT MEAT GOAT MILK, YOGURT & CHEESES GRASSFED BEEF & BISON LAMB LARD PORK SAUSAGE TURKEY VENISON YAK MEAT

pantry BLUE CORN FLOUR CHICOS RISTRAS CORNMEAL DRIED BEANS DRIED CHILE DRIED FRUITS DRIED HERBS GOURDS JAMS & JELLIES JERKY MAZA PICKLES PRESERVES PECANS PINON PISTACHIOS

fresh APPLES ARUGULA BEETS BOK CHOY BRAISING GREENS BROCCOLI CABBAGE CARROTS COLLARDS GARLIC HERBS JAPANESE MUSTARD JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES KALE KOHLRABI MUSHROOMS MUSTARD GREENS ONIONS POTATOES PUMPKINS RADICCHIO RADISHES RED & SWISS CHARD RUTABAGAS SALAD MIXES SHALLOTS SPINACH SPROUTS & MICROGREENS SWEET POTATOES TOMATOES TURNIPS WINTER SQUASH

Photo by Stephanie Cameron

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


Maize Maize, more commonly known as corn, is one of our many New Mexican traditional crops whose biodiversity is threatened by industrial standardization, and the use of genetically engineered (GE) seed stock and the companies who hold the patents on these seeds. To learn more about GE seeds and food go to www.justlabelit.org. The flavor of corn and the kernels produced on an ear, are determined through pollination. When an heirloom variety of corn is planted near a field with a GE variety, there is a good chance they will cross-pollinate, creating ears with genetic material from both. Because of the way in which corn is pollinated, many heirloom and landrace varieties of corn traditionally grown in the Southwest, and throughout the Americas, are endangered or are already extinct. To learn about endangered varieties of food plants go to www.slowfoodusa.org and read about the U.S. Ark of Taste. Maintaining the biodiversity and genetic integrity of landrace corn seed stock is important for a variety of reasons. In September 2012 in Mexico, indigenous leaders from all over the Americas convened for the Indigenous Peoples International Conference on Corn to declare their commitment to maintaining this biodiversity. The Declaration of Santo Domingo Tomaltepec calls for recognition of the direct connection between the health of indigenous communities, corn biodiversity and food sovereignty. Download a full version of the declaration in Spanish or English from our website www. ediblesantafe.com. To learn more about the Traditional Native American Farmer's Association, a New Mexico based organization that participated in the proceedings, visit www.tnafanm.org. New Mexico is blessed with many communities working to preserve heriloom and landrace varieties of corn for the health of their agriculture and their communities. Find corn and corn products produced by these growers at your local Farmer’s Market, when visiting Pueblo communities, and at your local natural foods grocery store. Be sure to ask where your corn comes from! Photo by Stephanie Cameron edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012

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Chico Stew Photo by Sergio Salvador

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edible COOKS!

what’s fresh, what’s local:

Chicos Fresh corn has a quick season here in New Mexico, but culture and tradition keep the harvest alive through various means of preservation. Listed on Slow Food’s US Ark of Taste, chicos are one of New Mexico’s delicious traditional foods in danger of extinction. Traditionally chicos have been made in two different ways. In the first method field corn is picked, shucked, then tied into ristras, then hung to dry or dried on screens. Once dehydrated, it is rubbed off the cob, and cooked until the kernels become clear, giving the corn a sweet, fresh taste. In the second method, white or yellow field corn is picked but not shucked, then put into a horno to roast overnight. It is then tied into ristras and hung to air dry. Once the kernels are completely dry, they are rubbed off the cobs and stored until ready to use. The kernels become dark and crinkly—the roasting adds a smoky flavor. Chicos need to soak overnight like dried beans, and will taste sweet and have a nice chewiness to them once cooked. You can find chicos at New Mexico farmer’s markets now. This recipe was prepared by Amy White, one of our regular edible Santa Fe contributors. She adapted the recipe from the PNM cookbook, Cocinas de New Mexico, to be cooked all day in the crock pot.

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Chico Stew 2 cups chicos 10 cups cold water 2 tablespoons oil 1/2 pounds pork, cut in 1-inch cubes 1 medium onion, diced 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tablespoon salt 2 teaspoons dried oregano 4-5 dried green or red chiles, crumbled To clean the chicos, spread them on a clean towel or newspaper, and pick out any debris or burnt corn. Rinse chicos in a colander or sieve. Soak chicos in cold water overnight, then cook (with the water) in a crockpot all day on low. If you prefer, you can just simmer them on the stove for 3-4 hours after soaking. For the stew, heat the oil in a dutch oven on medium flame, and sear the pork. Add the onion and garlic, and cook until translucent. Add the salt, oregano, chiles, and the chicos with all their water. Cook for 30 minutes (or longer, as desired) to blend the flavors and rehydrate the chiles. Taste and adjust seasonings, serve with warm tortillas.

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


terra

Taste The New Southwest

Inspired by Northern New Mexico and infused with local and organically sourced ingredients, new Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place and comfort to create a new twist on contemporary American cuisine. 877.262.4666 • fourseasons.com/santafe • 198 state road 592, santa fe

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012

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Watermelon Salad

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delicious new mexico

A New Wave of Chocoholics: Choco Canyon Artisan Chocolates By Brandon Stam · Photo by Don Davis Chocolate lovers have been known to travel a long way to get their fix, but the people who once resided at Chaco Canyon might be able to lay claim to being the first chocolate connoisseurs in what is now the United States. Anthropologists discovered remnants of chocolate found on pottery at Chaco Canyon that suggest the existence of a vast trade network for cacao all the way from Central America. Steve Whitman, founder of Choco Canyon Chocolates used his historical knowledge of chocolates to come up with the name for his company. He aims to link the new wave of chocolate enthusiasts to enthusiasts of the past. I met Whitman at the Mixing Bowl Commercial Kitchen where he makes his artisan chocolates. Whitman, originally from the Washington DC area, has been in New Mexico since 1972 when he followed some friends here on a whim. During his initial years here, he lived in a teepee in the Jemez Mountains, which he says he’s glad he did in his youth as opposed to later in life. Soon after his adventures in the woods, Whitman decided to pursue masonry, a career he liked because of the creativity involved. While he enjoyed masonry, the physically demanding nature of the job prompted him to go back to school and pursue a career in economic development. Whitman would later end up working for the City of Santa Fe Economic Development Department and the organization STEPS where he helped to pioneer the emergence of the Santa Fe Business Incubator, the Railyards in Santa Fe, and the International Festival held annually in Albuquerque. Last year Steve had reached what he called “pre-tirement” and decided to

get into the business of making chocolate. He had already been making chocolate as a hobby for a few years, by teaching himself through reading tutorials and watching videos. In March 2011 he decided to “dive right into it” by launching his product at the first ever Chocolate and Coffee Festival held in Albuquerque. The event was far busier than anyone ever imagined and Whitman learned a valuable lesson; “Don’t locate right in the front unless you have more than enough samples!” Since the company’s launch last year, Whitman has been busily cultivating delicious new flavors and ideas for Choco Canyon. Choco Canyon specializes in truffles, bonbons and caramels that are all handmade with locally sourced ingredients whenever possible; Whitman uses Rasband Dairy Cream as well as local honey, lavender and chile. What really defines Choco Canyon is the attention to detail, the exotic flavors and the high quality ingredients Steve uses. He makes the chocolate from scratch using ganache and cream that gives it a rich flavor and Whitman ensures each piece meets his high standards before being packaged. Currently, Choco Canyon has fifteen different flavors in rotation including Raspberry Red Chile, Salted Caramel, Honey Lavender, Red Chile Pinon, Classic Dark Chocolate and the Bad Monkey, which has banana and rum rolled in toasted coconut and drizzled with caramel. Whitman says a major challenge is “holding myself back from making too many flavors!” He utilizes the Downtown Grower’s Market and other events as testing grounds for new flavors he has concocted, including a soon to be released seasonal truffle with fresh pumpkin. Whitman acknowledges that creating chocolates in such a handmade artisan fashion can make production difficult but he feels it’s worth it for the overall taste and quality of the product. He looks forward to getting his products into more retail outlets this coming year including Whole Foods and Avila Gift Shops. Currently you can find his products at the La Montanita Co-op’s in Albuquerque as well as BookWorks and Michael Thomas Coffee. Choco Canyon also does special orders, for more information visit www.chococanyon.com and click the “Contact” section. Brandon Stam helps cultivate food entrepreneurs around New Mexico as a Project Manager for Delicious New Mexico.

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


cooking fresh

Vegetarian Holidays

The Meat Lover's Meatless Celebrations by Kim O’Donnel By Kate Manchester

Menu for a Vegetarian Holiday SWEET POTATO HUMMUS ROASTED RED ONIONS WITH PUMPKIN-ROSEMARY STUFFING AND ROOT VEGETABLE GRAVY DELICATA BOATS WITH RED RICE STUFFING *HOT BRUSSELS SPROUTS SLAW *SWEET POTATO–PESTO GRATIN *APPLE-ROSEMARY-WALNUT PIE WITH ENLIGHTENED PIE DOUGH

Journalist and carnivore Kim O’Donnel has spent years dishing up stories and recipes for the Washington Post, Culinate, USA Today, CivilEats.org, Real Simple and Huffington Post. A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education and lifelong carnivore, O’Donnel learned about a speech delivered by Nobel Peace Prize winner and UN climate expert Rajendra Pachauri in 2008. Pachauri said that one of the most important things you can do to help the planet is not trade in your gas guzzler for a hybrid car, but to have a meatless day every week. The speech resonated deeply with Kim, and soon she was sharing her weekly meatless adventures with her audience at the Washington Post. In 2010 Kim published The Meat Lover's Meatless Cookbook, and she just released her latest book, The Meat Lover's Meatless Celebrations: Year Round Vegetarian Feasts. With so many celebrations happening this time of year, it’s nice to be able to accommodate the mixed diets of guests, but also to be able to offer more delicious veggies on the holiday table. Feast away on this delicious vegetarian menu – O’Donnel focuses on soul satisfying vegetarian fare you can really sink your teeth into. The following recipes are from The Meat Lover's Meatless Celebrations, courtesy of Kim O’Donnel. The book is published by Da Capo Lifelong Books, and is in stores and available for holiday giving now. Read more about Kim and her work at www.kimodonnel.com. *You will find all the recipes for the Vegetarian Holiday Menu online at ediblesantafe.com

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012

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ROASTED RED ONIONS WITH PUMPKIN-ROSEMARY STUFFING AND ROOT VEGETABLE GRAVY Makes 6 servings A multistep, time-consuming affair this dish may be, but everything can be made in staggered fashion over the course of two days and assembled when you’re ready to serve. Your labor will result in a beauty of a dish: red onion shells now a shade of mauve, filled with all the colors of autumn in the pumpkin bread stuffing. The guests will go wild. KITCHEN NOTES: I’ve created a two-day game plan to divide the workload and help manage prep among the dish’s four main components. The gravy can be made in advance and gently reheated when ready to serve. You can make your own vegetable stock, or you can make it from Rapunzel brand of unsalted bouillon cubes, which have become my go-to stock. DAY ONE: ROOT VEGETABLE GRAVY This is no gravy in the ordinary sense, in that there are no pan drippings or roux to speak of. A mess of root vegetables are slathered with olive oil and roasted until super tender, then pureed and thinned out with vegetable stock. Thanks to my ingenious friend Nicole Aloni, who’s got a slew of cookbooks under her own belt, I learned this handy trick, which turns a roux-less sauce into a gravy with gusto. ROOT VEGETABLE GRAVY 1 medium-size onion, halved and peeled 2 cup peeled, 2- to 3-inch pieces of any combination of parsnips, carrots, or celery root 1 shallot bulb, peeled and left whole 6 cloves garlic, skin on 4 tablespoon olive oil 1⁄4 teaspoon salt 1 1⁄2 teaspoon fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried 3 to 5 cup vegetable stock 2 teaspoon soy sauce or wheat-free tamari Freshly ground black pepper 1⁄2 lemon TOOLS: Roasting pan, parchment paper, food processor HERE’S WHAT YOU DO: Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a roasting pan with parchment paper. Place all the vegetables, shallots, and garlic in a large bowl and add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. With your hands, coat the vegetables with the oil. Season with the salt. Arrange the vegetables in a single layer in the prepared pan and roast for 35 minutes. Check on the garlic; if very soft to the touch,

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PhotoFe by ·Clare Barboza edible Santa Winter 2012


remove. (You do not want it to burn.) Cover the pan and roast the vegetables for an additional 10 minutes; they should be tender enough to cut with a fork. Remove the now-cooled garlic cloves from their skins and place in the bowl of a food processor, along with the roasted vegetables and thyme. Process until well blended; the mixture will resemble a puree. While the motor is running, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. The mixture should be smooth and free of vegetable bits. In a medium-size saucepan over low heat, warm the vegetable stock and keep at a simmer. Pour the puree into another medium-size saucepan and heat over medium heat. Gradually ladle in the stock until it arrives at the desired consistency; I’m usually happy with the results after 3 cups of stock. Season with the soy sauce (this will also give the gravy a little color à la Kitchen Bouquet).

until somewhat frothy, another 90 seconds. Then add the yogurt and the pumpkin puree and beat until well mixed. Add the dry ingredients, in thirds, alternating with the water, to the wet batter. With a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, mix together. The batter will be somewhat sticky. Stir in the dried fruit and rosemary until evenly distributed. Scoop the batter into the prepared pan, place on a baking sheet, and bake for 65 to 75 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. The top of the bread should spring back when pressed lightly. Place the pan on a rack and let cool for 15 minutes. Run a knife along the sides of the pan and invert to release the bread, and let cool completely on the rack.

Generously season with the black pepper to taste, and a faint squeeze of the lemon. Keep on the heat until ready to pour into a gravy boat. To make ahead: Let cool, then store in the refrigerator until ready to reheat for serving.

When the bread is completely cooled, cut into 1-inch cubes. Place the cubes on a baking sheet in a single layer and allow to dry out overnight. If the cubes need additional toasting, place in the oven at 300°F for up to an hour.

PUMPKIN-ROSEMARY STUFFING

Makes 6‒7 cups bread cubes.

This stuffing is inspired by a pumpkin-raisin quick bread from a Bobby Flay cookbook. It’s the foundation for Flay’s bread pudding, which I made for several consecutive Thanksgivings. With the exception of a smidge of sugar, the quick bread for the stuffing is seriously savory, with freshly chopped rosemary leading the charge.

DAY TWO: DAY OF SERVING

PUMPKIN-ROSEMARY STUFFING Oil or butter, for greasing a loaf pan 1 3⁄4 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1⁄4 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1⁄2 teaspoon ground ginger 1⁄4 teaspoon ground cloves 3⁄4 teaspoon salt 4 tablespoon butter, softened and cut into several pieces 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1⁄4 cup neutral oil 1 egg 1⁄3 cup full-fat or 2% plain yogurt, ideally Greek style 1 cup unsweetened pure pumpkin puree (from a 15-ounce can) 1⁄2 cup water 1⁄2 cup dried cranberries, cherries, or currants 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped finely

PREP THE ONIONS AND MAKE THE STUFFING 7 red onions (about 1⁄2 pound each) 6 cups water 2 tablespoon olive oil 1 cups finely chopped celery (2 to 3 stalks) or bok choy 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups Swiss chard or spinach that has been washed, dried, stemmed and finely chopped Large pinch of ground chile pepper of choice Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 to 2 cups vegetable stock Pumpkin-rosemary bread cubes TOOLS: Melon baller, 12-inch skillet HERE’S WHAT YOU DO: Trim the tops and bottoms of six of the onions so they can sit upright, then peel. With a melon baller or a teaspoon, dig a little well in the top of each onion to create an opening, without tunneling through. Place the onions in a medium-size saucepan, along with the water. Bring to a boil and cook for 20 minutes over medium heat.

TOOLS: Stand or handheld mixer, 9-inch loaf pan

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO: Grease a 9-inch loaf pan and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Transfer the cooked onions to a baking dish and add a small amount of the cooking liquid—about 1⁄2 cup—until the surface of the dish is covered. Cover with foil and roast for 45 minutes.

In a medium-size bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, all of the ground spices, and salt and stir together. Using a stand or handheld mixer, cream the butter with the sugar in a large bowl until fluffy, about 90 seconds. Add the oil and egg and beat

While the onions roast, make the stuffing: Cut the remaining red onion in half, peel, and mince; you’re looking for a total of 1⁄2 cup. Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat.

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Add the minced red onion, celery, and garlic, stirring regularly until slightly softened, about 4 minutes. Add the chard and turn with tongs until coated with the aromatics. Cook until the greens wilt, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with the chile pepper, and salt and black pepper to taste.

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Meanwhile, bring the vegetable stock to a quick boil in a mediumsize saucepan, then lower the heat to low, keeping it hot at a gentle simmer. Place the rosemary-pumpkin bread cubes in a large bowl. Place the contents of the skillet mixture on top, and mix together until well mixed. Ladle in the hot stock in 1⁄2-cup increments, keeping an eye on absorption. Be careful not to oversaturate the stuffing, yielding a soggy result. Taste for seasonings and add salt and pepper as needed. With tongs, remove the onions one by one from the baking dish and transfer to a plate. Drain them of any lingering water and set aside until cool enough to handle. Drain the baking dish of the water.

Slice the onion in half and peel. Brush the onion and sweet potatoes with olive oil and place in a baking dish in a single layer. Cover with foil and roast for 1 hour; the sweet potatoes should be extremely tender.

Lower the oven temperature to 350°F. Lightly grease a baking dish. Pushing from the top opening, remove each onion’s insides. (You can store the onion remnants in therefrigerator for fried rice or your next omelet; they will keep for a few days in a covered container.) It’s okay if a hole results on the other end. Carefully return the onion shells to the baking dish. Fill the onions with the stuffing until generously packed, and put the remaining stuffing in the prepared baking dish. Cover the onions with foil and bake until warmed through, about 15 minutes. Make room for the remaining stuffing, also covered with foil, and bake until hot, about 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Wash and scrub the sweet potatoes. Cut into 3- to 4-inch pieces, regardless of the width. Keep the skins on.

Let cool for about 10 minutes. Peel off the skins of the sweet potatoes. Place all the roasted vegetables in the bowl of a food processor or heavy-duty stand blender and puree. Add the garlic, tahini, paprika, and salt and blend. Then gradually add 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice and taste. Add more as needed. Serve at room temperature with chopped fruits and vegetables: apples, bell peppers, celery, endive, jicama, and pears are all great dipping companions. Keeps well in an airtight container in the refrigerator for at least 3 days. The garlic flavor deepens with time.

Serve with the root vegetable gravy.

SWEET POTATO HUMMUS Makes 2 1⁄2 cups hummus Given that hummus is derived from the Arabic word for “chickpeas,” this is a loose interpretation of the beloved Middle Eastern spread, but a fun way to get your daily dose of vitamin A and antioxidants. Kids go crazy for this stuff; make a batch for the next birthday party and watch it disappear. 2 pounds orange-fleshed sweet potatoes (also sold as garnet or jewel yams) 1 medium-size yellow onion Chris Milligan Olive oil, for brushing 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoon tahini 1⁄4 teaspoon paprika or other medium-heat ground chile pepper 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 2 to 3 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 1⁄2 medium-size lemon) Photo by Stephanie Cameron

TOOLS: Food processor or heavy-duty stand blender

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


Photo Credits: Mike Crane

Photo Credits: Sergio Salvador

Photo Credits: Sergio Salvador

Enjoy seasonal rates at Los Poblanos Inn, crisp temperatures, cozy fireplaces and fresh breakfast. Dine with us at La Merienda, and visit the Farm Shop for unique holiday gifts. www.lospoblanos.com

edible Santa Fe 路 Winter 2012

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DELICATA BOATS WITH RED RICE STUFFING Makes 6‒8 servings Stuffed acorn squash: the intentions are always good, but unfortunately, the results rarely live up to the hype. Fortunately, there’s another way to meatless main dish happiness, people! It comes in the form of the delicata squash, a thin-skinned, quick-cooking variety that tastes like a mash-up of corn and sweet potatoes. Stuffed with mahoganyhued red rice, these boats are hearty yet elegant and actually taste like the squash of our dreams. 1 1⁄2 cups water 1 cup Bhutanese red rice (Plan B: long-grain Wehani; cooking times and liquid amounts may vary) 3 to 4 Delicata squash (about 1 pound each) 1⁄8 cups olive oil, plus extra for brushing 1⁄4 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste Freshly ground black pepper 1⁄2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped 1⁄4 cup unsalted shelled pistachios, chopped (Other options: walnuts, almonds, or pecans, also chopped) 1⁄3 cup dried cranberries or cherries, chopped 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger Zest of 1⁄2 lemon or orange, plus 1 or 2 squeezes of the juice 1⁄8 teaspoon ground chile pepper of choice TOOLS: Parchment paper KITCHEN NOTES: There’s enough filling for eight servings (one squash half per person). For a party of six, you’ll have more than a cup of remaining filling, which you can bring to the table. HERE’S WHAT YOU DO: Bring the water and the rice to a boil in a medium-size saucepan. Lower the heat to low, cover, and cook at a simmer, 20 to 25 minutes. The rice will be done when water is absorbed and grains are tender to the bite. (Kept covered for 5 to 10 minutes, the rice will continue to cook.) Preheat the oven to 400°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Trim both ends of each squash and slice in half lengthwise. Scoop out and discard the seeds and the attached pulp. Brush both sides of the squash with the olive oil, and season the inside to taste with salt and pepper. Roast until easily pierced with a fork, about 30 minutes, and remove from the oven. Lower the oven heat to 350°F. While the squash roasts, make the fi lling: Transfer the rice to a large mixing bowl and add the 1⁄8 cup of olive oil, and the parsley, nuts, dried fruit, fennel seeds, ginger, citrus zest, and chile pepper. Stir until the rice is coated with the oil and the mixture is well mixed. Add the 1⁄4 teaspoon of salt, stir, taste, and reseason if necessary. Fill each squash half with about 1⁄4 cup of the fi lling. Return to the oven and heat for about 15 minutes, until the rice is warmed through. Serve immediately, or lower the oven temperature to 225°F, cover with foil, and hold until ready to serve.

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PhotoFe by ·Clare Barboza edible Santa Winter 2012


memoir

Please Come Again

© Eray - Fotolia.com

Story and Photo by Elizabeth Grant Thomas

“My mom doesn’t understand ‘enough’ in English or Turkish,” our friend, Ismail, had warned us before setting off for Istanbul, Turkey, to stay with his parents, and now, with my pants ready to split wide open, I understand what he means. I have polished off a bowl of chicken soup; cold bean salad; chilled summer tomatoes tossed with cucumbers, peppers and vinaigrette; a Turkish flauta, filled with potato; tender chunks of lamb; fluffy rice; and juicy wedges of the sweetest watermelon I have ever tasted. Just when I think I can take no more, dessert is served, a rich chocolate pudding sprinkled with crushed walnuts. My husband and I retreat to our modest bedroom, reclining on the twin beds pushed up against opposing walls, releasing the top button of our pants for relief. Just then there is a quiet knock on our door and Inci, Ismail’s mother, asks, “Dondurma?” To our travel-weary brains this sounds like “sleep” in Spanish, the only foreign language we know, so we nod enthusiastically, indicating that we’re ready to turn in for the night. A few minutes later Inci beckons us back towards the kitchen, where heaping bowls of pistachio ice cream sit at our places at the table. I suddenly realize what it means to not speak the same language, and I wonder how we will fare the next two weeks. Somehow we manage to find room for the ice cream, and before making our way back to our bedroom Inci grabs the English-Turkish phrasebook that we have spent the evening passing back and forth, lobbing nouns at one another. She thumbs through the pages with a look of deep concentration, clearly seeking something specific. Finally, her face lights up and

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012

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she turns to us and carefully says, “Thank you for coming. Please come again!” Despite the fact that we are exhausted, stuffed, and feeling, in every way, that we’re in over our heads, I am intensely grateful to be here, overcome by how these near-strangers have opened their homes, their hearts and their kitchen to us. I have dreamed about seeing Istanbul for years, but now that I am here the small galley kitchen quickly becomes the nucleus of our time in this sprawling city. Here we drink our weight in mint tea from delicate glass cups shaped like honeysuckle blossoms and learn how to say az, “a little”, in Turkish when one more gözeleme is flopped onto our plate. Often, we linger at the table with Inci hours after a meal has ended, stumbling through complex conversations with the help of charades, crude drawings, and a bowl of fake fruit, which is used to represent everything from familial relationships to geographic locations. One day, we are discussing the Sunni and Shiites, and the fruit bowl is failing Inci. Unable to break the papier mache banana, currently being used to represent Shiite, in half, she inventively grabs a bag of bread and tears off a large hunk to symbolize the entire Islam religion. Then, she breaks off smaller pieces to represent different Muslim groups. Later that evening, as the entire faith bobs in her soup bowl, I wonder if global understanding couldn’t be brokered at kitchen tables. Inci shops for seasonal fare every day from the neighborhood markets, cooking three times a day from scratch, and it soon becomes

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clear that the multi-course dinner we ate that first night was not an anomaly but a typical weeknight meal. Before bed each night, Inci, pantomiming a wristwatch, asks us what time we’re planning on arising the next morning so that she can have breakfast ready, a simple but beautiful buffet of briny olives, soft cheese, and fresh bread. It is a stark departure from my own hostessing, where I encourage my visitors to help themselves to cold cereal. Although we’re never quite sure if we’re receiving special treatment because we are guests, we suspect that this is simply how humans treat other humans here. After days of gorging ourselves, Ramazan (also known as Ramadan), when Muslims renew their faith by fasting from sunrise to sunset for one lunar month, begins. Nothing is permitted to pass their lips, including food, drink, and cigarettes, and the fast is broken with a dinner known as iftar. When I ask Onur, Inci’s son, if there are special dishes served, he says, “Not special, just bigger.” I gulp. “Like, bigger how?” “Well, instead of one salad, there will be three.” I am afraid that my stomach might finally breach its walls. With everyone inside conserving their energy the world hums a little quieter, but when we return the first evening of Ramazan just before sundown the apartment has been transformed. Every burner on the stove is occupied by seething pans and Inci is tending to the köfte, grilled beef patties, and French fries are sputtering in a pot of oil. The dishes are piling up on the narrow kitchen table,

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which has been set with china, and Onur’s wife is mixing one of the three promised salads. There is börek, a Turkish taquito, and heaping plates of melon. When Inci sees me she offers a piece of round bread studded with sesame seeds-special Ramazan bread, she says -and enthusiastically guides me through the long menu.

As we sit down to eat I am reminded that iftar is about celebrating blessings, offering hospitality, and sharing a meal with friends and family. And although this dinner is undeniably special, our whole stay in Istanbul has been defined by this kind of open-heartedness. Looking back, my memories of the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar are fuzzy. What remains clear and bright in my mind is how the table looked that night, how the china twinkled, the way in which we were accepted wholeheartedly into a culture and a family. No matter where we are in the world, food has a way of breaking down barriers, of making our love, care, and attention incarnate. It speaks when there are no words. Elizabeth Grant Thomas is a nonfiction writer who contributes regularly to Edible Santa Fe. She can be found every other Tuesday at ediblesantafe.com, where she chronicles her family’s journey “back to the table,” on Twitter @egrantthomas, or at her website, www.elizabethgrantthomas.com.

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


Red Tractor Farm: corn maiden in a burlap bag Nissa Patterson

Dory Wegrzyn, Photo by Nerissa Muus

I am sitting on the bumper of my car, waiting for Dory Wegrzyn to tell me about the blue corn she is raising at Red Tractor Farm in the South Valley of Albuquerque. The late September afternoon sun rests low in the sky and a chalky breeze dries my mouth. It also dries the corn, whose sepia-colored stalks stand like proud maidens in 24 rows, each one a 100 feet long. The corn is nestled on a plot between two brown houses on a street four houses deep, between busy Sunset Boulevard and the bosque, that peaceful buffer of trees along the Rio Grande. The aging ristras on the neighbor’s front porch and a small troop of barking Chihuahuas remind me that

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012

I’m in someone’s neighborhood—teachers, mechanics or business owners might live behind the adobe colored walls. As I wait, I listen to the gentle wind lullaby that the grand old cottonwood tree sings to the corn, and the tune the corn calls back. "I’m tired," says Dory. She'd driven directly from her work, as an urban planner developing affordable housing, to her farm. Even so, she hops from her Honda Accord, dances nimbly over the tubing of the watering system and gazes lovingly at the nearly withered stalks. "This all started in a burlap bag," she points to the corn. Sweeping her

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hand toward the haricot verts, italian costata squash, and poblano chiles, she continues “this gives me energy, life, even though it is a lot of hard work. I like to see the end product, how it builds, how it grows.” Red Tractor Farm is comprised of two plots of land. An original plot of eight thousand square feet behind Dory and her partner Nerissa Muus’ house, and an acre purchased a few years ago to expand the farm. This new plot, previously owned by the Olonas family, is just blocks away from her house and is where we meet. Dory continues her story, telling me how Red Tractor Farm came to be. It is a tale from dark to light, with corn leading the way.

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A few years after Dory’s battle with cancer, Jimmy Petit, another South Valley farmer, gave her some Cochiti Pueblo blue corncobs nestled in that trusty burlap bag. She planted the seed in a small corner behind her house. The land, Dory said, had once been farmed and was aching to be planted again. Dory was aching to find her way into a life that was healthier than the whirl and demands of her career. She wanted to quiet the chatter in her head. Tending the corn was the anti-chatter. Unlike a bricks-and-mortar project, Dory had to give into the mystery, “I had no control over it. I could water, tend it but in the end I had no control.” Corn, Dory also felt, belonged on her land “I am in New Mexico so I want to use native plants.” The idea also appealed to Nerissa, a mechanical designer by trade. Their first corn crop was planted six years ago, the inspiration for the journey that led to Red Tractor Farm. Corn, it turns out, has accompanied humans for a long time, at least six thousand years in the Americas. Blue corn has been grown by New Mexico tribal members for at least several hundred years and has a special place in their spiritual life and culture— everything about corn is sacred. My friend Charlene, of Hopi-Tewa and Navajo descent, reminds me that in her culture corn can assist with healing and nurturing the mind, body and spirit. It has been with the people of the Southwest through trials, and celebrations, and while cultivation of blue corn has waned at times, it has never died out. The roots of the plant have been shifting through the sandy soil of the Southwest so long that the plant and the soil are like relatives, familiar with every nook of each other’s terrain. In recent years blue corn has had a commercial renaissance. It has a sweeter, nuttier flavor than white or yellow field corn, which may explain why chefs such as Mark Miller popularized blue corn tortillas and ignited its renaissance at his Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe back in the 1980's. The Red Tractor ladies like to make blue corn pancakes stuffed with bacon and green chile. Today it can be widely purchased as cornmeal, ground into either a course or flour like consistency, from companies like Santa Ana Pueblo’s Tamaya Blue. When the flour is roasted it is called atole, which is also the word used for a breakfast gruel traditionally fed to anyone needing invigoration of spirit or health—the sick, the elderly, children, or postpartum mothers. Blue

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corn is more nutritious than common corn, with up to thirty percent more protein. The blue corn plant looks a lot like field corn—languid, drooping leaves and stalks reaching to the sky. Approaching it is like meeting grandma on the front porch, the closer you get the more it draws you into the embrace. You want to nestle into the sanctuary and read a book or take a nap. In Dory’s field that is just what I want to do but my curiosity draws me to take a closer look at the plants. I begin to see the blue—a rib of a leaf that is a mottled purple, a festive violet tassel. Dory peels back the husk on a fat cob to show me the deep violet kernels and remarks that just a week ago they were just beginning to blush this color, next week they will be a dark purple, by mid-October they will be blue-black, and it will be harvest time. This year Dory and Nerissa planted their biggest blue corn crop yet. In a milestone for the farm, they will mill their corn into a lightblue meal, which will available to customers in early spring 2013. From their simple start with a small plot of blue corn Dory and Nerissa added one crop after the next, finally growing enough to open a farm stand at the Albuquerque Downtown Growers’ Market, where they are known for their Roma tomatoes, their tidy booth, and neighborly conversation with their customers. I met them when I bought a batch of elderberries, finding out later the berries were from a gnarled old tree behind their house, planted by the previous farmer’s wife. The women still work full time but most evenings and weekends you can find them tending onions, kale, bok choi, Swiss chard, arugula, eggplants, basil, peppers, five types of potatoes, a dizzying variety of tomatoes and three thousand square feet of garlic. In addition to the market stand they operate a small CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) supplying sixteen families with a weekly box of vegetables from June to October. The families, in turn, provide three hours of labor per month, bringing along their kids so they can touch where their dinner comes from. Every Tuesday families pick up their CSA box full of produce, plus apricot jam, fruit leathers, and pickles—all Red Tractor products. This year the CSA members will also be the lucky recipients of the blue cornmeal. Dory and Nerissa feel deeply satisfied handing over each CSA box—in sharing the gifts of their land.

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Nerissa calls blue corn their “revelation.” It is the plant that helped them see the potential of their land and ignite a love of growing things. In a sacred way it arrived right when it was needed, to assist in Dory’s healing and lead the way to their new life. We all need a companion on our life path. In the case of Dory and Nerissa their companion is a tall, strong, grand dame named blue corn. She might have arrived in a simple burlap bag, but she has made quite an impression. For more information on Red Tractor Farm: www.redtractorfarm.net or on Facebook @Red Tractor Farm redtractorfarm@yahoo.com Dory Wegrzyn 505-604-5956 Nerissa Muus 505-604-3158 Nissa Patterson is a mother, writer, gardener, and public health professional. Her place is in the garden, where she is exploring the joys of growing food for her family.

Dory Wegrzyn & Nerissa Muus Photo by Stephanie Cameron

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


Blue Corn Posole Mush

Add the onions and saut茅 for three minutes. Add the 2 tablespoons water and the agave nectar. Cook until water is absorbed and the onions begin to turn slightly golden, but not browned, for approximately three minutes. Remove from heat.

From Chef Lois Ellen Frank Red Mesa Cuisine, www.redmesacuisine.com Serves 6

Place the chiles, onions and the 2/3 cup water in a blender. Add the 1/2 teaspoon salt, cover and blend until smooth. Serve immediately. This chile sauce may be stored in the refrigerator for three to five days.

Blue Corn Posole 1 15 ounce bag dried blue corn posole 1 quart water

Sweet Posole Topping

Blue Corn Mush 1 cup finely ground blue corn meal 2 cup water

Top with your choice of agave, maple syrup, sliced fruit or milk.

Wash the dried blue corn posole in cold water and remove any dirt or stones. Drain and rinse. Place the entire contents into a slow cooker or crock pot and cover with one-quart water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer over night or for approximately eight hours. Turn off heat and set aside. In a small saucepan over medium to high heat, heat the water until it boils. Place the cup of finely ground blue corn meal into a small saucepan and slowly add the boiling water mixing the corn meal to prevent any lumps from forming. Using a whisk mix together completely. Return to the stove and heat slowly over low to medium heat, stirring constantly. Cook, slowly, continuing to stir, for about five minutes, or until it turns smooth and is thick. Add the gruel to the posole and reheat slowly over low to medium heat stirring to thicken entire pot of posole and to prevent burning.

Red Tractor Farm Blue Corn Pancakes From Dory Wegrzyn and Nerissa Muus Makes 12-16 cakes Pancake 1 3/4 cups blue corn flour 3/4 cups unbleached white flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 tablespoon brown sugar 4 tablespoon butter, melted 4 eggs, beaten 1 3/4 cups milk or a 50/ 50 combination of milk and buttermilk Milk to adjust consistency of batter Filling 8 bacon strips 1/4 pound of roasted, peeled whole green chiles

Serve hot topped with a savory or sweet topping. Cook eight strips of bacon. Cut them in half; set aside. Cut the green chile strips to the size of bacon strips. Set aside.

Savory Posole Topping: Red Chile Sauce

Combine blue corn flour, white flour, baking powder, and brown sugar. Set aside.

Makes approximately one and a half cups sauce

Beat the eggs with milk then slowly add the melted butter that has cooled but not cold.

8 New Mexico red chile pods, rinsed, dried and then stemmed and seeded 2 cup boiling water 1 medium onion, diced small 2 tablespoons tap water 1/2 teaspoon agave nectar 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 2/3 cup water, lukewarm Olive oil spray

Add liquid ingredients to dry ingredients. Stir gently, until lumps disappear. Let the batter stand for 5 minutes. Add more milk if you desire a thinner batter. Prepare a medium heat, greased griddle. On the heated griddle place the two bacon strips in an X . Place the green chile pieces on top of the bacon. Ladle the pancake batter over the X. Cook on this side and then flip.

Place cleaned chile pods in a bowl with the two cups of boiling water and let sit until soft, approximately five minutes. Drain in a colander and discard the water.

Serve with heated maple or elderberry syrup.

In a cast iron skillet, over medium to high heat, heat olive oil sprayed skillet until hot.

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Cameron edible Santa Fe 路 Winter 2012 31Blue Corn Pancakes, Photo by Stephanie


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Firehouse Cooks Albuquerque Fire Department Station 16 By Andrea Feucht ∙ Photos by Sergio Salvador

Think of a time when you could honestly call yourself part of a community, full of shared experience and common goals. Perhaps it was summer camp as a youth, or the high school play, from casting day all the way to the strike party. Maybe it was as an adult on a house-building project or a month-long retreat with a church group. We humans can’t help it—throw us into a group, strangers or not, expected to spend many hours in each other’s company—and bonds will develop. You can even see it on group-oriented reality shows— it’s just natural. Bonds keep our micro-societies functioning, from getting support in times of stress to being able to wink and smile at inside jokes. Because this bond—this inevitable but oh-so-valuable bond—is alive and strong in firehouses, you, the citizen, are in good hands when calamity strikes. The Northeast Heights is hardly a place you’d call out in the boonies, yet for the tightly-knit crew that serves Albuquerque Fire Department at Station 16, the duties that arise from their Juan Tabo and Montgomery location can be as far-ranging as brush fires in the foothills to off-the-grid hiker rescues to the more stereotypical fires and accident calls. Teams of firefighters work in 48-hour shifts with a four-day break. For those two days they are immersed in the work and each other’s company, from the mandatory daily gym workout to the calls that come in from dispatch at any hour of the day or night. The crews can be smaller than you might imagine, depending on the size of the fire station. Station 16’s coterie of Joe, Clint, Jason, Sara, Brian, and McKay was the full roster for my dinner visit on a recent warm fall evening. We fired up the appetites, talking food and family, while they each worked on their contribution to dinner. From patio doors to far counter, the station’s kitchen is similar in size to many modern (and overgrown) residential kitchens. Here the space is used to comfortable capacity at least twice a day, not unlike most folk’s familial holiday cooking escapades. A big table has room for at least 10, with ample counters and a commercial stove to keep the process cranking. When the gang decides to start “cooking with fire,” they do so literally by stepping out to the patio to heat up the family-sized grill. The crew is like a band by now, but they’ve all come from different paths. Years ago and half-way across town at another fire station, one of theChefs current Station 16 and crew’sJeffreputation started with tamales. Ok, Ryan Hallum Walker, Marcello's perhaps it didn’t start with tamales, but they certainly helped demon-

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strate Lt. Joe Luna as a cook that any New Mexican can admire. In his 17-year run at Station 4, the holidays came to be known by epic tamale making sessions that spread masa and holiday joy to friends and families of the firefighters. While they haven’t fired up the tamale engine again, I do some mild prodding in the hope of a chile and masa-heavy winter in 2012. Brian’s famous red chile sauce was liquefying in the blender as he and Joe talked beans—which kind of pork is best in the pot for extra flavor (salt pork first, bacon in a pinch), and from where those beans must originate. Rookie Sara cut dough for sopaipillas as oil heated up on the stove, telling me that despite all the chile-infused food they cook, her specialty is a mean Philly sandwich. Joe chimes in to say that everyone loves his lasagna, as well. Obviously, the defining quality of the food they cook is heartiness and great flavor. Getting the rookie treatment falls to one person, Sara, but by no means should she be considered anything but capable. She passed the grueling Fire Academy program and is paramedic trained, to boot—there can be no doubt, these folks are tough. Clint, Jason and McKay are prepping the rest of the spread, chatting about the plethora of stories already in their collective memory of incidents and near misses—and those are just the kitchen escapades. Some of these are relegated to inside jokes and light ribbing, a practice I heartily condone and consider an essential part of family, or firehouse, bonding. Joe is happy to supply one thing everyone seems to agree on: meat. Much of the protein for meals comes from game hunted by family and friends. Stored in a good-sized freezer, venison is usually on hand along with a few other game animals. These will take the station’s enchiladas or red sauce from the realm of decent New Mexican grub into a whole new world of local cuisine. Some folks don’t care for venison’s strong flavor, but others that grew up around hunters, especially here or in the Midwest, adore the stuff. When it is added to Brian’s pureed red chile and eaten as a simple stew, the results would wow even the most discerning food snob. When available, Joe and team add rabbit and elk to the larder, but sometimes it depends on who gets lucky. Just two days after I first talked with Joe, his godson shot a mule deer, handing over one of the legs to the station to use for stew. Despite the use of game meats, the menu comfort foodSavoy oriented Chef isMyles Lucero, with a New Mexican grounding. The simplest breakfast to grace the

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


table is DIY breakfast burritos, starting with a skillet of potatoes, a pan of eggs, and cheese or bacon to stuff inside the warmed tortillas. Slightly more labor intensive is a sausage-flecked white gravy from scratch—but who doesn’t love biscuits and gravy for breakfast? Ultimately, the house favorite in the morning is Huevos Rancheros with heaping piles of beans from Estancia. These are not just any beans, but new crop pintos from the valley known in the 1920s and 1930s as the Pinto Bean Capital of the World. Even now Estancia produces amazingly delicious little orbs. Across the whole region the speckled buttons have their fans, but at Station 16, the crew already has their 2012 supply, ready for a slow cook with a hunk of salt pork.

Red Chile with Pork

Even with the fantastic view and the sibling-style rivalry among crew members, the job is never far below the surface. Simple calls might be a check-in at a nursing home, or support at an automobile accident. More serious events are both feared and beloved; this is what they do best, from foothills wildfires to multi-car pileups. Spending those 48 hours together without interruption every single week ensures that communication flows efficiently when the task at hand escalates far above that of frying sopapillas for dinner.

Remove hard tops and shake out seeds from dried chiles. Boil for 20 minutes in large pot with enough water to cover the chiles.

Ultimately, firefighters that cook together have tighter teams than the stations that tend to leave kitchen duties to a single person even while living together, or who have crew members fend for their own meals. Even at the city’s newest Westside outpost, Station 21, the crew emphasized that yes, they love to cook the foods of their families and their personal history, but the food is merely a vehicle to the shared experience of cooking and building trust. The fire stations I spoke with around town all waxed enthusiastic about the importance of the shared meal and the family environment that inevitably takes root.

Cut pork chops into bite-sized pieces. Brown the pork with the oil in a pot large enough to hold the strained chile. Once pork is cooked, add chile and warm up gently before serving.

Once upon a time, Andrea Feucht woke up to the realization that she was obsessed with food and was a decent writer, to boot. For nearly a decade she has been writing freelance, crafting tales of food personalities and casting a critical eye on restaurants. Her work appears locally and nationally, and her first book was published in October by Globe Pequot Press: "The Food Lovers' Guide to Santa Fe, Albuquerque and Taos." Find Andrea and her book at http://fb.me/foodloversnm

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Recipe provided by Brian Cox of Fire Station 16, AFD Serves 8-10 10 ounces of dried red chiles 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon onion powder (if onion salt, omit salt) 1/2 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon black pepper 1 1/2 pound thin-cut boneless pork chops 3 tablespoons cooking oil of your choice

In two batches (depending on blender capacity) remove chiles from boiling water and put in a blender or food processor. Add back in enough chile water to blend, about one cup per blender load. Add half the onion powder, salt, black pepper, and garlic. Blend on high, about four minutes. Pour through fine-mesh strainer into bowl to remove any residual coarse pieces.

Station 16 Sopapillas Recipe from Lt. Joe Luna of Fire Station 16, AFD 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons shortening (lard preferred) 3/4 cup warm water, more as needed Cooking oil for frying (avoid peanut oil if you are worried about nut allergies) Sift dry ingredients together in a bowl. Add shortening and water, combine by hand. Add more water if dough (masa) seems crumbly

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or dry—it should come together into a ball. If time allows, bundle the dough in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to chill—dough is easier to roll out and cut when cool. Dough can be prepared up to one day in advance of frying. When ready to fry sopapillas, heat the oil to about 375° F, never allowing the oil to smoke. (Station 16 uses a big castiron skillet out on their patio barbecue grill—this keeps the grease and odors outside.) Now, the masa: cut the dough into four equal chunks. Place one chunk on a floured surface and roll out into a circle about 1/4 inch thick. Cut with knife or pizza cutter into any shapes, from triangles to cutouts for the kids. Keep the preparation surface floured to reduce sticking while rolling out. Gently drape each piece of masa into the oil, a few per batch as room allows. Sopapillas will puff and slightly brown before needing to be turned over with a slotted spoon or kitchen tongs. Remove to a paper towel-lined bowl to drain as the rest are fried. Serve with enchiladas and/or the red chile.

Firehouse Game Meat Enchiladas Recipe from Lt. Joe Luna of Fire Station #16, AFD. This is less of a recipe than a concept and assembly—the ingredients are simple and each person can make their call about toppings and serving size. Corn tortillas Ground venison or elk, preferably from your hunting spoils Pinto beans, preferably from Estancia Valley Salt pork or bacon Shredded cheese Red onion White onion Tomatoes Lettuce Eggs Red chile sauce Cook the pinto beans with a few chunks of salt pork or bacon until tender. Leave them a bit soupy—the liquid is fine when building the enchiladas. Prepare the red chile sauce with pork, per its recipe. Dice the onions and tomatoes and shred the lettuce. According to Lt. Joe Luna, here’s how to make your plate: start with one tortilla on the plate. Add a small scoop of the beans and some ground meat. Top with shredded cheese and a few diced onions. Add another tortilla, more beans, more ground meat, and top with onions, tomatoes and lettuce. Fry one or two eggs over easy and gently place on top of the enchiladas before ladling the red chile with pork over the whole thing. Dig in!

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


Three Generations The Cervantes Family

Story and Photos by Lois Ellen Frank

Over 35 years ago, Roberta Finely, formerly Roberta Cervantes, started a New Mexico restaurant serving locally sourced New Mexico chiles with her family’s recipes in Albuquerque. Today the restaurant is still located at their San Pedro and Gibson address, where they have been for 33 years now. Roberta used her Spanish roots to create some of her signature dishes, except on St. Patrick’s Day. On this day, she employed her Irish heritage (Roberta’s roots are Spanish and Irish) to serve corned beef and cabbage at her restaurant, which proved to be a great success. Roberta still celebrates this Irish holiday, once a year on St. Patrick’s Day at her restaurant with signature Irish dishes, and serves her famous New Mexico dishes during the rest of the year. Her chile sauces and salsas were so popular at her restaurant—people literally came from all over the world to eat at her restaurant—that customers were always asking to buy the chile sauces and salsas to take home. After years of customers asking for her delicious authentic New Mexican chile sauces and salsas, her son Richard Gonzales and his

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wife Arian decided to launch a line of specialty food products featuring Roberta’s recipes bringing together tradition, culture, and culinary art in their line of salsas and chiles. This “Classic New Mexico Cuisine” food product line, as it is called at Cervantes Food Products by Arian Gonzales, is growing and evolving every day. Richard’s background is in engineering and Arian’s background is in marketing and sales. In the beginning Richard worked two jobs, one with the Federal Government, and one with Cervantes Food Products until about three years ago. The two now work full time at Cervantes. Today, their daughter, Marisol Gonzales, has also joined them. She graduated with a master’s degree in biochemistry from New Mexico Tech and now works with her parents as the food scientist, is in charge of food safety, and is the quality manager for the Cervantes product line. Starting a business may sound easy but this family has dedicated their lives to making local, traditional foods featuring red and green New Mexico chiles available throughout New Mexico. Their longterm goal is to put their product on the shelves of stores and su-

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permarkets that have distribution throughout the Southwest. Arian stated that Cervantes buys their entire red and green chile from New Mexico farmers and growers and that this has been an important mission critical for the success of the Cervantes line. They are always on the hunt for new sources of New Mexico and locally produced red and green chiles. Several natural food chains, including Whole Foods and Sprouts Markets, carry their product line, and I met both Arian and Richard at the Fiery Food Show in Albuquerque last year after sampling some of their products at the show. Continuing to source local quality products while expanding their distribution is important to the Cervantes product line and a big part of their mission. Arian has been very active in New Mexico regarding chiles. Cervantes Food Products joined the New Mexico Chile Association to work on the “New Mexico Chile Advertising Act,” a law that was just passed in April 2012. This law now in effect, states that the labeling on food products claiming to use New Mexico chiles must indeed really be using chiles from New Mexico and not chiles from Texas, California, Mexico or China. As of July 2012, companies are required to self-report to the New Mexico department of agriculture where in New Mexico their chiles come from. In other words, all companies claiming to have New Mexico chiles on their labels and in their food product lines must now show where their chile products are purchased from and who they are being bought from, whether a local small farmer or a large grower or producer. The Gonzaleses were an industry force behind this legislation, which is why they joined the New Mexico Chile Association to begin with and pride themselves in using traditional heritage non-GMO chiles.

an important ancestral food to the Southwest region. Arian stated that it is very important to the Cervantes Food Products family to produce a product that is local, natural, wholesome and healthy. She is honored to be in a woman-owned family business where she is able to work with her immediate family members, all three generations, and to produce a product that her family is very proud of and has been developed over years of cooking. “The backbone to America is the small family business,” she stated. “Having a business takes long hours, total dedication and a lot of determination to get the product line into supermarkets and on the shelves because of the competition, but it’s worth it to us because we do it together as a family.” Dr. Lois Ellen Frank is an author, Native American chef, photographer, and culinary anthropologist and the chef/owner of Red Mesa Cuisine, a Santa Fe Catering company, specializing in locally sourced organic native foods and hand gathered wild ingredients from Native American communities.

My favorite of the Cervantes product line is the green chile sauce. It comes in medium and hot but I tend to use the medium more than the hot—it’s just a personal preference on my part. On their product label they state that New Mexican cuisine is a blending together of centuries of influence from Native American, Spanish, Mexican and Northern European traditions that create a tapestry of flavors, and I whole-heartedly agree. This culinary foundation—the native chile— is not only rich in color, texture, and flavor, but its aroma serves as our spice of life. I’ve always believed this. The Cervantes Food Products family shares this same passion as many of you do for the amazing chile pepper. Chiles have been around for thousands of years and all chiles originated here in the Americas. After Columbus first encountered them he brought them to Europe where they have spread to become cultivated around the globe. There are five domesticated species of chile peppers and our New Mexico red and green chile come from the species Capsicum annuum. Chiles are full of flavor but they also have vitamins A and C, and are a safe and effective topical analgesic agent in the management of arthritis pain. Chiles trigger a brain response to the burning sensation by raising the heart rate, increasing perspiration and the release of endorphins, all of which are a part of their allure. They are the foundation to our traditional New Mexican cuisine and

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Potato and Green Chile Tacos Lois Ellen Frank - Recipe from the Taco Table Cookbook Published by the Western National Parks Association Serves 6–8 This recipe is a great side dish for meat eaters and a wonderful addition to the vegetarian taco choices. In Santa Fe we have fresh organic potatoes and all of the vegetables in this recipe are grown locally and sold at our Farmer’s Market. I’ve tried this recipe with a variety of organic potatoes, including small Red potatoes, Fingerling potatoes, Dutch, Yellow, and Yukon Gold potatoes and they all taste good. See if you can get organic potatoes in your area at your own Farmer’s Market or local grocery, it will make this dish taste fabulous. Potatoes are the key ingredients, so the better tasting the potato the better this dish will taste. Green Chile is the other key ingredient to this dish, I recommend using Cervantes Medium Green Chile Sauce unless you like your chiles hot and then you can use the Cervantes Hot Green Chile Sauce. You can always add more heat from chiles to a dish but you can’t take away the heat once it is there. For the Tacos 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 cups Red, Fingerling, Dutch, Yellow or Yukon gold potatoes, sliced very thinly 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1/2 cups white onions, diced 1 cup Roma or other heirloom tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1 cup Cervantes Medium Green Chile Sauce 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, ground 1/2 cup shredded Jack Cheese* In a large cast iron skillet or frying pan heat olive oil over medium heat. Add potatoes and sauté for three to four minutes, then add garlic. Stir to prevent burning. Add the onions and tomatoes and cook for another three to fours minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the green chile sauce, stir into the other ingredients, and sauté another two minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook for another seven to ten minutes until the potatoes are soft and cooked to the desired consistency, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. The thinner the potato slices, the quicker they will cook. A little browning on the potatoes will give them a nice flavor and texture so this is desirable. Add the kosher salt, black pepper and stir into other ingredients. Remove from heat, scoop a small amount on of your favorite corn or flour tortilla, top with the cheese and serve immediately. *Vegetarian, Vegan can omit cheese

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edible COOKS! Green Chile and Organic Lamb Stew Lois Ellen Frank Serves 6–8 I love stews in winter. It’s time to slow down and reflect on everything you’ve done throughout the year. This dish is perfect for lunch or dinner and warming on a cold day as well as easy to make. I make this delicious stew with local organic lamb, but to make it vegan simply leave out the meat and follow the recipe. For the meat version, I use certified-organic, grass-fed ground lamb from Shepherd’s Lamb, in Tierra Amarilla. Shepherd’s Lamb is available year-round at the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market and at La Montañita Co-op’s locations in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Gallup. Look to see what organic ground meats are available at the farmers market in your area. For the Stew 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 large organic onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 pound organic ground lamb 1 16-ounce jar Cervantes Medium Green Chile Sauce 1/2 of a 28 oz. can plum tomatoes with basil, no salt added (chopped) 3 cups water 1 1/2 pounds Organic Dutch Yellow Potatoes, or about 20 small potatoes, washed and diced into 1/2 inch pieces with skins on 1 cup organic frozen corn kernels 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. In a medium saucepan or soup pot, heat the olive oil until it is hot but not smoking. Add the ground lamb and sauté until the meat is brown and completely cooked. Using a potato masher or slotted spoon, mash the meat into small pieces as it cooks, stirring to prevent burning. Cook for approximately four to five minutes. Add the diced onion and sauté until the onions are clear, stirring occasionally for approximately three minutes to prevent burning. Add the garlic and sauté for a minute. Add the 16 oz jar of Cervantes Medium Green Chile Sauce and cook for two minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes and cook for another two minutes. Add the water and the diced potatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for approximately 35 minutes until the potatoes are soft. Cooking time will depend on how large a dice you have made with your potatoes. The smaller the dice the quicker the potatoes will cook. Add the corn kernels, then the salt and pepper. Remove from heat. Serve immediately with you favorite local bread or tortillas. Meat recipe but can be made Vegan Last Call owner Luis Valdevinos

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The Feasting Place Story by Jan Brooks ∙ Photos by Stephanie Cameron

On a recent morning, I drove north of Santa Fe with the gold of cottonwoods flashing their fall party dresses, a sparkling blue sky framing their silhouettes. Reflecting on my love of this landscape as I drove, memories of childhood travel to New Mexico settled into my consciousness. It is a visual, sensual impressionistic memory of a New Mexico fall: the car window rolled down slightly, the smell of pinon, the deep red of chile ristras, and the occasional appearance of a large, earth colored gum drop dotting the landscape near homes along the road. Long ago I learned that these bumps are actually outdoor ovens or “ hornos” and for centuries in Pueblo culture, fires were built in these adobe ovens to bake meats, breads and pastalitos or pastries such as our state cookie, the Biscochito. Our family trips were punctuated with stops at Route 66 tourist sites where I also recall first purchasing my very own miniature horno. In fact, many versions of these small hornos were made as souvenirs and sold to tourists. Once back home, I would burn the pinon-scented incense inside my tiny horno, the distinctive smell serving to inspire memories of the place I had come to love. Little did I know then that many years later on a lovely fall day in New Mexico, I would have the opportunity to stand in front of a full-scale horno and experience the shared knowledge of Norma and Hutch Naranjo, true experts in the art of building and cooking in this traditional Pueblo oven. Norma and Hutch Naranjo’s property is just on the northern outskirts of Espanola on the Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo where Norma and her family have been for many generations. Hutch is from Santa Clara Pueblo and is responsible for maintaining the two large hornos that serve The Feasting Place, the name that Hutch and Norma have given their very special catering business and educational program. Hutch described the horno building process using photographs he had recently taken while constructing an horno for a bed and breakfast in Abiqui. The base of the horno is created with a circle of adobe

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bricks forming an exterior wall. This circular column is filled with river rock and then covered with more adobe mud to hold and distribute even heat across the bottom surface of the interior. From this base, more adobe bricks are laid to create the curved form with the arched opening and a vent hole to encourage circulation. The outside surface is covered in mud and straw, a surface that breathes and insulates simultaneously. The horno stands as a testament, eloquently expressing the centuries old beauty of Pueblo culture and the enduring utility and simplicity of cooking rituals that spring directly from the earth’s resources. For Norma and Hutch, to carry forward these traditions is an honor. After retiring from social work in 1999, Norma established The Feasting Place as a catering business centered in the traditional culinary culture of her Pueblo. She and Hutch named their program The Feasting Place because preparing and teaching others to make traditional Pueblo feasts is their passion. They are true ambassadors of Pueblo food and agricultural traditions and have a deep understanding of the meaning and shared sense of humanity that is conveyed through the ritual of sharing a meal. As I arrived at The Feasting Place, Norma was extracting a freshly baked raspberry pie, a selection of prune empanadas and some Pueblostyle biscochitos from her horno. She uses hand-made wooden paddles to move the pastalitos or pastries in and out of the oven. Pies, bread and other baked goods are arranged in the bottom of the horno where heat is circulated evenly around the baked goods much like a contemporary convection oven. Alongside the horno she laid ashes and coals from the fire on the ground and placed fresh green chiles from her garden on top to roast. The immediate environment evidenced an ambitious garden with crops that supply the crucial ingredients for their meals and teach-

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edible COOKS!

ing programs—blue corn, white corn, beans, tomatoes, melon, chiles. The seeds of their white corn have been carefully protected and handed down across generations. The white corn is sacred and is shared with family to be used for spiritual ceremonies. Hutch also grows the white corn to make chicos, a highly labor intensive form of roasted corn that is used in traditional Pueblo stews. Norma and Hutch sell their chicos and their ground blue corn to students and visitors. They also raise chickens and before we left, shared the bounty of their garden and eggs to take home.

Whole Wheat Pueblo Oven (Horno) Bread Norma Naranjo Makes 3–4 loaves 1 package dry yeast 6 cups warm water 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 cup shortening 4 cups all purpose flour 2 cups whole wheat flour 3 teaspoons salt

Asking Norma about her fondest memories of horno cooking, she unhesitatingly responds that it is a family time, a gathering and celebrating of culture and tradition, a time when stories are shared and values are expressed. One can see the depth of meaning she feels in reflecting on her Pueblo traditions and her excitement in sharing them with others. She is clearly a powerful teacher.

Dissolve yeast in water in a large mixing bowl and add sugar. Let stand for 10 minutes.

The Feasting Place features the two outside hornos where students are taught to cook traditional pastries. But, the classes actually begin inside Norma’s kitchen and on her large New Mexican dining table where students learn to work with traditional dough, filling their own empanadas and cutting biscochitos that will be baked in the horno. Other traditional feast dishes are also taught, including how to prepare her red chile and pork with potatoes, traditional Pueblo stews using the chicos and, of course her horno bread. The Feasting Place gift baskets include many of the key ingredients for preparing a traditional Pueblo feast.

Add flours, shortening, salt and mix well. Add water in small amounts and kneading after each addition. Then knead all together and shape into a big ball and place in a greased bowl. Brush tip of dough with oil and cover with towel. Allow to rise in a warm place for two hours or until doubled in size. Punch down dough. Turn onto a lightly floured board and knead dough and make into round loaves. Place loaves on greased pans and let stand for approximately 1 1/2 hours. Bake loaves in a preheated 400º F oven for 50 minutes or until loaves are brown. Or you can bake outside in the Horno for approximately 40 minutes.

The Feasting Place is more than a catering business or educational program; it is a cultural space that inspires a sense of shared community. Norma and Hutch offer a vital experiential tourism program, generously sharing their cultural knowledge. I left feeling that I would love to return with friends, take a class and enjoy a day of stories and food, away from the clamor, unplugged, just as in centuries past.

Red ChilE Stew

www.thefeastingplace.com

Serves 4-6

Norma Naranjo

3 cups water 2 pounds boneless pork stew meat, cubed 6 teaspoons ground red chile 6 small potatoes, boiled, skinned, cubed, Salt to taste In a heavy saucepan put meat and three cups of water, bring to a boil and simmer for about one hour or until tender. Place potatoes into cooked meat. Add chile and bring to a boil for 30 minutes. Add salt to taste. Jan Brooks is a writer, artist and consultant to foundations, including those with programs that focus on the food system. Jan is also a cook and spent many years designing and making custom cooking utensils. She owns Coulter Brooks Art & Antiques with her husband, the historian Lane Coulter.

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


The Real Butcher Shop A New Model for Food Communities

By Sarah Sheesley ∙ Photos by Stephanie Cameron

When Tom Delehanty and Tracey Hamilton started Pollo Real in 1996, they were the first certified organic poultry farm in the U.S., and the first to form a CSA for local meat. Their newest venture, The Real Butcher Shop, will open in Santa Fe’s Solano Shopping Center this November, and is also built around a progressive CSA model. Unlike most farm memberships, where you get a surprise box with whatever vegetables are in season, members prepay and select the meat of their choice as needed for maximum flexibility and freshness. The butcher shop will function as a regular retail store, open to all, but the CSA forms its core. There are about fifty founding members whose financial support goes directly towards start up costs, creating local jobs and supporting small farmers. Their investment helps Pollo Real avoid the expenses connected to commercial financing and keep prices competitive. All of the money invested comes back to the members as store credit with an 8 to 10 percent discount. They can shop anytime without a wallet on hand. As members return to the shop over time they have the opportunity to develop a valuable relationship with the butcher—a resource for answers and suggestions about flavor, cost, and cooking method.

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After disappearing from American neighborhoods in the 1960s, the neighborhood butcher has been making a steady comeback. Not only are Americans interested in knowing where their meat comes from, but butchers have also been hailed as the new “hot shots” of the food world, prompting reality TV shows like Meat Men, on the Food Network. All of this is great for raising awareness and enthusiasm, but The Real Butcher Shop will be true to its name: Real. Butcher Molly Kearns hails from Chicago via Alaska, and various meat counters, ranches and resorts across the West. She was cutting meat well before trendy butcher shops popped up in places like Berkeley, Brooklyn, and Chicago. Having seen some “boutique butchers” that do not live up to their claims behind closed doors, Molly says, she’s thrilled to see eye-to-eye with Tom and Tracy on issues of integrity, ethics and flavor. As a producer-owned shop, Tom and Tracy’s connection to process is unmatched. They know the business from the inside, and take “grass-finished” seriously; their birds graze on fields of chicory, millet, wheatgrass and brassicas, and are processed on-site. The poultry raised at Pollo Real will make up about a third of the shop’s meat (heritage

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turkey, duck, guinea foul, French Label Rouge and American Cornish hens). They will work closely with Shepherd’s Lamb in Tierra Amarilla, and beef ranchers in New Mexico and Colorado. Organic pork will be coming from the Midwest, where heritage breeds like Red Wattle, Mangolista, and Berkshire pigs dine on flaxmeal, peas, wheat and grass. According to Tom, top quality organic pork is difficult to find in New Mexico. Raising livestock themselves make Tom and Tracy acutely tuned in to where meat in their shop will come from and how its raised, if its not their own. Tom and Tracey haven’t heard of any other producer-owned-CSAbutcher shops. Producers are often are too busy to consider a retail venture, but in their case it will help keep Pollo Real running smoothly. The goal is not to create a business that will grow beyond their capacity or community, but to create a model that can be replicated around the country, and encourage a dynamic economy around ethical, delicious food. The shop will not only do nose-to-tail cuts for home cooking, but stocks, charcouterie, pâté, and specialty products like high-grade leaf lard. Chef Alison Ward is also on board and brings a great mix of experience as a baker, cook, and store and restaurant manager. Classes and workshops on meat cutting and preparation to bridge the gap for those of us making the transition from shrink-wrapped to hand cut are also in the works.

edible COOKS! For information about the The Real Butcher Shop’s CSA, contact realbutchershop@q.com or (505)507-3123 Sarah Sheesley is a freelance writer and MFA student in Creative Nonfiction at UNM. She is an avid gardener, home cook and food enthusiast.

Giblet Gravy

In honor of a return to the classics, and using every bit of your holiday poultry, here is a recipe for authentic homemade gravy from the book, Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home by Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Yield 3 to 4 cups Stock 2 – 3 tablespoons vegetable oil or clear turkey fat The neck and all bones and trimmings from a “deconstructed” turkey 1 1/2 cups 1-inch chunks of carrots 1 1/2 cups roughly chopped onion 1 cup 1-inch chunks of celery Turkey giblets (heart, gizzard, and liver) 1 cup dry French vermouth, white wine, or water for deglazing 2 quarts chicken stock or water 2 bay leaves 6 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried Salt and freshly ground pepper Gravy 2 tablespoons potato starch or arrowroot 2 tablespoons dry (tawny) port or stock Salt and freshly ground black pepper Equipment Large frying pan (12 inches diameter) Large saucepan or stockpot (6 quart) Large strainer Medium whisk Making turkey stock Set the frying pan over medium-high heat, swirl the oil or fat around in it, and toss in the turkey bones and trimmings, including the neck. (Don’t crowd the pan; work in batches if necessary.) Brown the pieces well on all sides, turning them with tongs, then transfer to the large saucepan or stockpot. When there’s room in the pan, add the chopped vegetables and sauté them rapidly, stirring and turning, until nicely colored on the edges. Transfer to the saucepan with a slotted spoon, leaving the rendered fat in the pan. Finally, sauté the giblets–gizzard, heart, and liver–until brown; set aside. Pour all the fat out of the frying pan, add the vermouth, and deglaze the pan over medium heat, stirring and scraping up all the crusted bits. Pour the juices into the stockpot and add stock or water to cover

Chef Alison Ward & Butcher Molly Kearns

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Thank you for making our

2nd Annual Kitchen Garden & Coop Tour a great success! We hope to see you next year. Thank You Friends and Sponsors • Whole Foods

• Eldorado Garden Tour

• Joe’s Dining

• Sangre de Cristo Beekeepers

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Association

• The Feed Bin

• 7 Homeowners

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• 100 Volunteers

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“Be a guest at your own event.”

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Full service event catering company.

7034 2nd St NW Albuquerque, NM 87107

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the bones by an inch or so. Bring to a simmer, then skim off fat and scum during the first half hour of cooking. Add the bay leaves and thyme, 1/4 teaspoon or so of salt and grinds of pepper. Simmer the stock, partially covered, for another 1 1/2 to 2 hours. During this time, set the liver aside and cook the heart for about 15 minutes and the gizzard for about 45 minutes in the simmering stock; remove them after cooking and set aside with the liver. Strain the stock into a bowl or smaller saucepan–you should have about six cups. Discard all the bones now, but save the turkey neck for gravy. Let the stock settle so the fat rises to the top‒or chill it overnight‒then degrease. Making the gravy Pour the degreased stock into a saucepan and bring it to the boil. Cook down rapidly, by about half, until you have three cups of flavorful liquid. Meanwhile, pull the cooked meat off the turkey neck, cut off and discard the tough membrane from the gizzard, then dice all the neck and giblet meat, including the liver and heart, into very fine pieces. Stir into the saucepan of hot gravy liquid, and simmer together for a couple of minutes. Whisk the starch and wine together in a small bowl to make a smooth paste. Remove the gravy pan from heat and whisk driblets of the gravy liquid into the starch mixture until you have added 1/2 cup, then whisk this back into the main body of the liquid. Finally, bring the liquid to the simmer, whisking slowly, and let it thicken into gravy. After the turkey has been removed from the roasting pan, tilt it and spoon off as much fat as possible. Set the pan on the stove over low to medium heat, pour in the thickened gravy, and stir and scrape up all the glazed vegetables and juices. Strain the gravy and vegetables back into the saucepan. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and reheat if necessary before serving.

This is a recipe from Donna Hay’s, “The New Cook”, and adapted by a trusted friend and expert home cook, Kei Tsuzuki. Serves 5-6 3 pounds boned pork loin 1 lemon, halved Salt Stuffing 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon oil 1 onion, chopped 3 apples, peeled and sliced (apples can be substituted with pear, apricot or quince) 2 tablespoons whole sage leaves (or rosemary) 2 cups fresh breadcrumbs 1/3 cup milk Cracked black pepper Dash of cinnamon and brown sugar (optional) Preheat oven to 425°F. For stuffing, combine butter and oil in frying pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until golden. Add apples and sage to pan, stirring occasionally until soft. Remove pan from the heat and stir in breadcrumbs, milk and pepper. Score pork rind at 1/4 inch intervals. Spread the stuffing down the center of the loin. Sprinkle cinnamon and brown sugar over stuffing. Roll up pork and tie with cotton string. Rub outside of rolled pork rind with lemon and salt. Place pork in a baking dish uncovered, and cook at 425°F for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F and cook for an additional 45 minutes. To serve, cut off the cotton string, and slice in 1/2 inch portions. Garnish plates with thin slices of fresh apple, a sage leaf, or a sprig of rosemary.

© Martin Turzak - Fotolia.com

Note: If you have leftovers, gravy can be stored in the refrigerator for about three days. To keep longer, it should be frozen (two to three months max). However, in freezing the fat will separate and change the consistency. In the reheating process it will stir back in, but may need additional starch/flour to adjust the texture.

Roast Pork with Apple Stuffing

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Al and Jane Soake

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Harvesting Prickly Pears

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The Art of Gingerbread Story and Photos by Lauren Bennett

Is there not a taste or an aroma more warming, comforting and reminiscent of the holidays than that of gingerbread? A perfect harmony of spicy and sweet, the exotic, dark nutty flavor—what is not to love? The beloved spiced cake has a surprisingly long history, its creation probably dating back to between the years 100 CE and 1200 CE when crusaders exploring Asia first brought ginger and other spices back to Europe. Traders on the Silk Road introduced these foreign specialties to the new world—they became such prized possessions it is no surprise a cake was born to showcase the ingredients. Although its shape and form have transformed through the ages and across the globe, there is no debate that the sweet treat has been and will be an enduring favorite during the holidays. The first traditional European gingerbread was thought to have been developed by monks, who ate the cake at Christmastime. It was a relatively simple, heavy cake, with a unique and appealing flavor. By the 1600s the cake had evolved into more elaborate creations—cakes studded with fruits and nuts, cut into squares, or rolled out flat into the shapes of animals and men. The treat became so popular that gingerbread fairs spread across Europe as a tribute to each country’s regional variety. The art of gingerbread making became a lavish affair, and the development of gingerbread guilds ensured that people were eating only the best.

oven, I began to think about how gingerbread, besides being about appearance, is about celebrating the spices and flavors of the region where it is made. My next project: a New Mexican version of the cake spiked with red chile powder and sweetened with tamarisk honey… yum! Resources: Bensen, Amanda. “A Brief History of Gingerbread.” Food and Think. Smithsonian.com, December 24, 2008. Accessed September 21, 2012. Castella, Krystina. A World of Cake: 150 Recipes for Sweet Traditions from Cultures Near and Far. North Adams, MA: Storey Publishing, 2010. Evans, Meryle. “Gingerbread Dreams.” Saveur: Savor a World of Authentic Cuisine, Saveur.com. September 6, 2007. Accessed September 21, 2012. Rolek, Barbara. “The History of Gingerbread: Who Started Eating Gingerbread first?” Eastern European Food. About.com: Part of the New York Times Company. Accessed September, 21 2012. Lauren is an eighteen-year-old student who caught the food photography and writing bug soon after graduating from high school. You can find more of her work at her gluten free and vegetarian cooking blog cirquedusouffle.blogspot.com.

During this period many people began to believe that sweets should look as marvelous as they taste. So a more artful approach to baking emerged—cakes were commonly decorated with gold leaf, gemstones or silver, as well as edible gems of candied citrus, flowers and sculpted marzipan. Perhaps it was this movement of creating beautiful baked goods that inspired the range of decorative gingerbread that exists today. From little gingerbread pigs sold by monks at French fairs, to “ginger men” resembling the dignitaries at Queen Elizabeth I’s court, and of course the iconic Grimm fairy tale gingerbread house, we just can’t resist these tasty edible works of art. Today we see the result of thousands of years of gingerbread evolution. In medieval times, sugar and ginger were seen as medicinal or curative foods. Sweets were celebrated (as they should be today!) as a remedy to aid longevity. Ancient recipes have been kept alive so we can enjoy every imaginable form of the spiced concoction; so don’t feel too bad about splurging a little this holiday season. After searching through gingerbread recipes, I settled on a traditional cake I hoped would showcase the artful elegance of the dessert—dark and spicy, piled high with sparkly candied citrus and served with a warm lemon sauce. But when I slid the cake into the

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Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


Your get-away nest is just a click-away. www.casagallina.net

575-758-2306

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Taos, NM

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Dark and Spicy Gingerbread Lauren Bennett Adapted from Williams- Sonoma Christmas Lemon sauce from La Belle Cuisine Makes 8–10 servings In M. F. K. Fisher’s Serve It Forth, she describes the unique “Dijon gingerbread” she encountered in France. The bread was known to get better with age and took many months or even years to create. The first step was to mix old black honey with flour and then leave it out in the snow for several months. And once the cake was finished, it was stored in a box for weeks on end, its flavor becoming ever more potent. Although the following recipe does not take nearly as long to make, the aroma of the cake as it bakes may be reminiscent of the smell of Dijon gingerbread as it wafted over the little French town. Gingerbread 1/2 cup buttermilk, at room temperature 1/4 cup crystallized ginger, minced 1 1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour (I substituted a gluten free flour blend) 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/4 teaspoon ground clove 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature 1/2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar 1/2 cup unsulfured molasses 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Garnish the cake with candied citrus peel or powdered sugar, and just before serving make a warm lemon sauce to drizzle over slices of cake.

Decorate With Candied citrus peel or powdered sugar Serve With Warm lemon sauce or whipped cream Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter the bottom and sides of an eightinch spring-form pan. Line the bottom with a round of baking parchment or waxed paper. Butter the paper. Dust the paper and the sides of the pan with flour, tapping out the excess. In a small bowl, combine the buttermilk and minced ginger. Set aside. Sift together the flour, baking soda, ground ginger, cinnamon, sea salt, cloves, and pepper into a medium sized bowl. In a large bowl, using a whisk or an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the butter and brown sugar together until light and fluffy. Stir in the molasses. Beat in the eggs, then the vanilla, until smooth. Gradually stir the dry ingredients into the butter mixture until smooth. Stir in the buttermilk mixture until blended. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, 25–30 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool for 10 minutes. Remove the sides of the pan. Invert the cake onto the wire rack and remove the pan bottom and the paper. Turn the cake right side up and let cool slightly or completely.

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Warm Lemon Sauce 1/2 cup sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 cup cold cider or water Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 2 tablespoon unsalted butter Pinch of salt In a small nonreactive saucepan, stir together the sugar and cornstarch. Add the cider or water in a slow stream and stir until smooth. Set the pan over medium heat and bring the mixture to a boil. Stir in the lemon zest and juice, butter and salt until the butter melts. Serve immediately. Makes about 1 1/3 cups. * Can be adapted to gluten free Resources: Fisher, M.F.K. Serve it Forth. New York: North Point Press, 1937. “John’s Mother’s Lemon Sauce with Lemon Slices.” La Belle Cuisine, labellecuisine.com. November 28, 2011. Accessed September 27, 2012. Miller, Carolyn. Williams-Sonoma Christmas. NewYork: Simon and Schuster, 2003.

Nina 49Yozell-Epstein

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


Table Hopping Story and Photos by Sergio Salvador ALBUQUERQUE

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f you live in, or find yourself on the Westside, do yourself a favor and check out Urban Hotdog Company. Owner David Kleinfeld opened the restaurant October 3rd in the strip just north of Cottonwood Mall. Kleinfeld started in the restaurant business more than 20 years ago as Scalo's original manager. More recently, he turned his attention to the commercial real estate industry, but with the trend toward upscale burger joints both nationally and locally, Kleinfeld saw an opportunity to tweak a successful model. "I wanted a concept attractive to a diverse group, but that wasn't already being done locally." The space is slick and contemporary, the menu unexpectedly ambitious. Try the Crafty Dog, topped with handmade mac & locally made cheese (Old Windmill Farms). Or, more conscientious diners might go with the Eco Dog featuring grass fed, humanelyraised, nitrate-free beef franks. Vegetarians will note the 'Curry Dog', which takes a curry-marinated, stewed tofu and tops it with grilled veggies, chopped peanuts and cilantro. Buns are made in town every morning at Pastian’s Bakery. 10250 Cottonwood Park just North of Cottonwood Mall. www.urbanhotdogcompany.com 505-898-5671

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ai Tok is a busy man. The owner of Nob Hill's StreetFood Asia is in the final stages of an ambitious new project in the heart of UNM's Brick Light District on Harvard. Using the frenetic pace of a big-city Asian street market as a model, Tok is planning to provide a build-your own dining experience beyond anything this town has seen before. To be sure, Tok's menu at StreetFood Asia is already long on choice, but he says that this new venture, StreetFood Market, will take a la carte, and the very notion of fusion, to a new level. There will be a sushi station, where diners choose seaweed or rice paper, brown or white rice, and what type of fish for their Maki Roll. A noodle bar will evoke flavors from Tokyo to Hanoi and grilled meats will be prepared the way you might find in the streets of Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong. There will be a dessert creperie, and as if that weren't enough, a build-your-own burrito station will be set up in the mornings. "We want people to come in all day long and be able to customize the meal that they crave that day. It's not fast food, but good food done fast." Tok anticipates an early November opening. www.thstreetfoodasia.com

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am always on the lookout for quality New Mexican cuisine. Last month, a friend directed me to a relatively new spot in the heights: Caliente's. The restaurant opened last year, and after trying the Huevos, which I use as a barometer for our native cuisine, I am happy to report that this is a stop worth making. With so much pent-up demand for New Mexican food, a lot of local restaurants mail it in when it comes to quality. Not Caliente's. The red chile is the first thing I noticed, made the right way with pods soaked, strained and slow cooked—not a powder job. Tamales and rellenos are freshly made to order on-site and the salsas are handmade daily. Because everything at Caliente's is slow cooked and made to order, be prepared to wait a little longer—it will be worth it. Open Monday thru Saturday 9am – 9pm and Sunday 10am – 8pm. Just north of Indian School at 1930 Juan Tabo NE. www.calientesrestaurant.com, 505-298-7988.

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hile the closing of Vivace saddened many, the idea of something fresh and new in that location was tantalizing to some. We now know that two new concepts will eventually emerge in this prime location in the heart of Nob Hill. This November, in the wake of a $250k remodel of the west half, longtime restaurateur Sham Naik will open Bistronomy. The gourmet burger joint and taproom will emphasize local products, sourcing beef for their high-end burgers from local ranchers. Over two-dozen taps will feature only New Mexico craft beers for aficionados to sample the best our state has to offer. Monthly specials will feature exotic burgers including kangaroo, ostrich, and wild boar, and

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the menu will include tuna, chicken, veggie and salmon burgers. www.shhhsociety.biz, 505-262-2222. The rumor that the East half will house a second installation of the popular Chez Bob has also been confirmed. Owner Bob Maw hopes to have his French and home-style Italian concept in place for the holidays. In a bustling district already boasting some of our city’s finest independent restaurants, the addition of these new options adds to the allure. www.chezbob.com

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ne of Albuquerque’s hottest new restaurants has a new head chef. Jaye Wilkinson, who spent the last two years as the sous chef at Los Poblanos Inn, brings her focus on local, sustainable and seasonal ingredients to a kitchen with sensibilities to match: Farm & Table. The menu is changing incrementally, as Wilkinson adds locally grown proteins including lamb, chicken and pork. Popular staples, including the seared diver scallops and seared pork bellies, will remain. www.farmandtablenm.com, 505-503-7124

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n September 10th, James Campbell Caruso quietly opened Taberna La Boca just behind the Marcy Street location of La Boca. Chef Caurso, a five-time James Beard Award nominee, is one of the brightest stars in the Santa Fe restaurant scene and has decidedly placed Iberian food and drink in the hearts and minds of

Chef Jaye Wilkinson

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New Mexican diners since opening La Boca’s doors six years ago. A short walk from the original restaurant, Taberna provides muchneeded overflow for the 50-seat La Boca, where diners are encouraged to linger over the eclectic Spanish tapas and carefully crafted wine menus featuring the best from Spain and Portugal. With a more casual atmosphere, no reservation requirement and comfortable patio seating for 30, Taberna is quickly becoming a destination in its own right. The menu is simpler and more traditional than La Boca, and diners are seated until 11pm every night. “Like the Tabernas in Spain, we want to provide an option for people looking for a terrific meal after a movie or a late business meeting,” says general manager Michael Smith. Chef Caruso expands on the idea: “We want to create a place where people gather comfortably with friends and family knowing that they can share great food and drink. Our menu reflects the exuberance we have for Spanish cooking, and we hope that both restaurants provide a social setting similar to what you might find out on the town in Spain.” www.tabernasf.com, 505-988-7102

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hings happen for a reason. In the cases of Chef Joseph Wrede and Maria “Max” Renteria, their respective career paths converging at Tomme provide cause for celebration. Both Wrede and Renteria are esteemed figures in the New Mexico restaurant community. Those with long enough memories long for the simple artistry of Joseph’s

Chef Joseph Wrede

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Table in Taos, and the reputation of Max’s as one of Santa Fe’s best restaurants is well documented. But along the way, both restaurants closed and Wrede and Renteria found themselves navigating the difficult waters of compromise. When Renteria partnered with Wrede this September, a palpable sense that the days of compromise were at an end. For her part, Renteria has completely turned over the menu to her new chef. “It’s completely his vision, he is an artist and there is no committee.” With the kitchen in good hands, Renteria is able to focus her attention on what she does best—front of house—and many would argue that no one does it better. For his part, Wrede describes a re-awakened sense of purpose in his cooking, a sense that things have come full circle. He attributes this in part to the control he has in the kitchen, and also to the selfimposed challenge of changing the menu every day. “I can’t help but engage now, and it feels right again.” This ever-changing menu is influenced by, and depends upon, the efforts of local foragers, farmers and ranchers in an organic confluence that engages not only the chef, but Santa Fe diners as well. 229 Gllisteo Street at West Alameda, 505-820-2253

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A TAos lAndmArk since 1936 cAll or click for our 3 for

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arlier this year, chef Ka'ainoa Ravey was part of one of Albuquerque’s most captivating restaurant openings in many years, Farm & Table. With the subsequent success of the new

866.887.5160 taosinn.com

Chef Ka'ainoa Ravey

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Chef Amaury Torres & Mary Kline, also known as “the Cuban’s Wife” restaurant, Ravey was decidedly on the map and it didn’t take long for opportunities to present themselves. In September he took one he could not pass up: the chef de cuisine position at Red Sage in the Buffalo Thunder Resort. When we spoke, Ravey’s emphasis on the importance of his year at Farm & Table provided a clear indication that the menu at Red Sage was going to change. “Before Farm & Table, I thought of ‘seasonal’ as what was available on the purveyor’s truck, but now my eyes are open to the local farms and ranches and what seasonal really means.” It won’t be easy to transfer a focus on local, seasonal ingredients from a restaurant seating 100 to the Red Sage with its capacity of over 230, but Ravey is excited about the challenge. The menu at the steak house will also be impacted by the new chef ’s Hawaiian background. Flavors will be inspired by the Asian influences of his homeland, and Ravey’s connections with seafood purveyors in Honolulu will mean that the fresh seafood specials he has become known for will be represented. www.buffalothunderresort.com. For reservations call 505-819-2056.

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t seems unlikely that a restaurant featuring Caribbean cuisine would open 10 miles south of Santa Fe on Highway 14. With so many dining options right in the heart of Santa Fe, would people drive 20 minutes to try something new? The answer turns out to be a resounding ‘yes’, and they’ll drive 45 minutes north from Albuquerque as well. “We get almost as many people in from Albuquerque as we do from Santa Fe,” says Mary Kline, also known as “the Cuban’s Wife.” The restaurant, which opened in March, is Babaluu’s Cocinia Cubana, and the reason people flock is the food being crafted in the kitchen of chef Amaury Torres.

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If the location is unlikely, Torres’ story is impossible. In 1994, he came to this country on an inner tube, had his life saved by a pod of dolphins during the 90-mile trip from Cuba, and spent 16 months in Guantanamo Bay detention before getting immigration clearance. Finally, Torres was free and he made his way first to Miami and then to the best-known kitchens of the Northwest coast. It was there that he met Mary in a cha-cha-cha club, and it is here, fifteen years later, that the two of them have truly hit their stride. The food at Babaluu’s is described as world cuisine with a Caribbean flair. Torres is a clear talent, and the food is fresh and inspired. Much of the produce comes by way of Synergia Ranch right down the street, and Torres sources as much of the protein on the menu as he can from Bonanza Creek Ranch, less than a mile away. All seafood comes by way of Above Sea Level. Kline works her magic in the front of the house, a festive space that is an explosion of color with the sounds of Latin American music filling the air in the dining room and an enclosed patio. Babaluu’s is the very definition of a destination restaurant, and is absolutely worth the trip. Reservations are highly recommended, and they are closed on Monday and Tuesday. www.babaluuscocina.com, 505-471-1100. Sergio Salvador is an Albuquerque-based professional photographer, an occasional writer and a graphic designer sometimes. His work has been featured in New Mexico Magazine, Su Casa, The Santa Fean, Popular Plates, Vegetarian Times, Edible Santa Fe and other fine publications. If you have a scoop for Sergio, send it to sergio@salvadorphoto.com.

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


PREMIUM

eat local guide New Mexico has its own unique food traditions—from Hatch to Chimayo—and we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food.

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Celebrating 21 years in business, the Artichoke Cafe offers casual fine dining, a Wine Spectator Award Winning Wine List and Artisan Cocktails in the full-service bar. Private rooms are available for special occasions and meetings. Off-premise catering. On-premise parking with attendant on duty. Walk from the Albuquerque Railrunner stop. Lunch Mon - Fri, 11am - 2:30pm; Dinner nightly 5:30pm - 9pm. 424 Central SE, 505-243-0200 www.artichokecafe.com

Blades

A warm, lively bistro located in beautiful Placitas, Blades ‘Bistro offers casual fine dining and a full service bar. In addition to our unique Artisan Cocktails we feature a Wine Spectator Award Winning Wine List. Our cuisine is unpretentious, exciting, fresh and contemporary with a French flair. We source freshly grown vegetables from a local farmer, complementing our seasonal dishes, all of which are expertly prepared by European trained chef/owner Kevin Bladergroen. Tues - Thurs, 5 - 9pm; Fri - Sat 5 - 9:30pm; Sun 10am - 2pm 221 Highway 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695 www.bladesbistro.com

Farm & Table

Join us for a wonderful dining experience in Albuquerque’s gorgeous North Valley! Farm & Table offers seasonal dishes created by scratch with ingredients sourced from local farmers and from our on-site farm. Delectable dishes inspired by New Mexico’s growing season will satisfy the omnivore as well as the vegetarian – and are complimented by select wines & craft beers. Wed - Thurs, 5 pm - 9 pm; Fri - Sat, 5 pm - 10 pm; Sat - Sun, 9 am - 2 pm. 8917 4th NW, 505-503-7124 www.farmandtablenm.com

Flying star

Fine cuisine in a friendly scene. We’re your locally-owned neighborhood cafe serving made from scratch food, desserts and fresh roasted coffee. We’re open early and stay open late from breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Diverse magazines and free Wi-Fi. Eight locations in Albuquerque, family owned.

edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012

EAT LOCAL GUIDE CA

Albuquerque Artichoke Café

Authentic

Delicious

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723 Silver Ave SW 505-244-8099, 8001 Menaul Blvd NE 505-293-6911, 3416 Central Ave SE 505-255-6633, 4501 Juan Tabo NE 505-275-8311, 4026 Rio Grande NW 505-344-6714, 10700 Corrales Rd, 505-938-4717, 8000 Paseo del Norte, 505-923-4211, 200 S. Camino del Pueblo, Bernalillo 505-404-2100

Farina Pizzeria & Wine Bar

An artisan pizzeria and wine bar with a classic Italian menu with a sophisticated twist. Great selection of affordable Italian wines, local Marble Brewery on draught, and delectable home-made desserts in a renovated historic building. Voted “Best New Restaurant” by Albuquerque Magazine. Walk from the Albuquerque Railrunner stop. 510 Central Ave SE, 505-243-0130 www.farinapizzeria.com

Los Poblanos Inn

Our cuisine is rooted in what comes from our farm as well as the New Mexico Rio Grande River Valley. Cuisine and ambiance reflect chef Jonathan Perno’s aesthetic, and the farm’s long established relationships with local farmers. Please check our website to see when the next dinner will be, or to book your own event or private dining experience. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297 www.lospoblanos.com

Savoy Bar and Grill

Savoy is a casual fine dining, locally owned restaurant in Albuquerque’s Northeast Heights. Savoy has a full bar, extensive wine list, serves steaks, oysters, and fresh fish. We have a beautiful patio and lounge, featuring specials and a great happy hour, 3 to 6pm and 9 to 10pm daily. Sunday Brunch, 10am - 3pm; Lunch Mon - Fri, 11am - 3pm; Dinner daily 5pm. 10601 Montgomery NW, 505-294-9463, www.savoyabq.com

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Great food and wine with a seasonal flair. Enjoy our wood-fired steaks and seafood while sipping a glass of wine from our award winning wine list. Or, relax on our rooftop patio and enjoy our happy hour with a great view of Old Town, Albuquerque. Lunch Mon - Fri, 11:30am - 2:30pm; Dinner daily at 5pm. 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100 www.seasonsabq.com

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Taj Mahal

Come experience the variety of tastes and flavors that Indian Cuisine offers at Taj Mahal. The delicately spiced Indian curry will tantalize your taste buds while the Tandoori Khoobiyan (a mix grill of tandoori chicken, lamb kababs and shrimp) will make you come back for more. Taj Mahal is proud to be the premier Indian cuisine restaurant in Albuquerque. Daily Lunch Buffet 11am - 2:30pm; Dinner Sun -Thur, 5 - 9:30pm; Fri - Sat, 5 - 10pm 1430 Carlisle NE, 505-255-1994 www.tajmahalcuisineofindia.com

The Grove Café & Market

An artisan café serving breakfast, lunch and brunch. The Grove features local organic produce and products and always uses the highest quality seasonal ingredients available. Enjoy fine coffee, tea, wine and brunch cocktails and peruse our market for culinary gifts and favorite foodie items. Sunday brunch is a true taste of this bustling café scene. Tues - Sat, 7am - 4pm; Sun 8am - 3pm; Closed Monday. 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800 www.thegrovecafemarket.com

Zinc Wine Bar and Bistro

A three level bistro in the heart of Nob Hill, Zinc features contemporary cuisine with a French flair. The intimate cellar bar serves a lighter menu with live music three nights a week. Serving dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails and tasty bar bites! Afternoon Intermezzo Mon-Sat, 3 -5pm. Dinner daily at 5pm; Sat - Sun Brunch 11am to 2:30pm. Dinner & Cellar Bar open daily at 5pm. Weekend Brunch 11am to 2:30pm. 3009 Central NE, 505.254.9462 · www.zincabq.com

Santa Fe Andiamo

We prepare the finest, local and seasonal ingredients a la minute with the utmost care and respect. Dining at Andiamo inspires conversation and evokes memories. We see Andiamo as a collective experience for people who love food, and our staff is genuinely happy to work with our customers. At the end of the day, we want our guests to feel better for having eaten here. Across the street from the Railyard. Lunch Mon - Fri, 11am - 2pm, Dinner Nightly from 5pm. 322 Garfield St., 505-995-9595 www.AndiamoSantaFe.com

Flying star

Fine cuisine in a friendly scene. We’re your locally-owned neighborhood cafe serving made from scratch food, desserts and fresh roasted coffee. We’re open early and stay open late from breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. Diverse magazines and free Wi-Fi. 500 Market Street, next to the Railyard. 505-216-3939

Joe’s Dining

Since 2002 Santa Fe’s largest purchaser of Farmers Market meats and produce, expertly prepared by European trained chef/owner. Mesquite grill, pizza, brunch, wine, beer. Excellent quality, exceptional value. Open Tues - Sun, 11:30am - 9pm. 2801 Rodeo Rd. at Zia, 505-471-3800 www.joesdining.com

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La Casa sena

La Casa Sena – A local favorite for over 28 years! Chef Gharrity features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local and seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list. Located in the historic Sena Plaza. La Casa Sena and La Cantina are open Daily 11:00am until close. La Cantina’s singing wait staff perform nightly starting at 6:00pm. 125 E. Palace Ave, 505-988-5232, www.lacasasena.com

A tavola non si invecchia.

(At the table with good friends you do not grow old.)

revolution bakery

Revolution Bakery is Santa Fe’s only 100% glutenfree bakery. We serve gluten-free breads, cakes, pies, muffins, cookies, cupcakes, coffee cakes, brownies, scones and more to take home or enjoy in our bright, airy and expansive dining room, with a cup of Metropolis coffee and free Wi-Fi. 1291 San Felipe Avenue, 505-988-2100 www.revolutionbakery.com

NEIGHBORHOOD TRATTORIA

Lunch M-F 11-2 · Dinner Nightly from 5 322 Garfield Street, Santa Fe 505.995.9595 · AndiamoSantaFe.com

Terra at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe

Inspired by Northern New Mexico and infused with local and organically sourced ingredients, Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place and comfort to create a new twist on contemporary American cuisine. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 198 State Road 592, Santa Fe, 877-262-4666 www.fourseasons.com/santafe

Vinaigrette

A bright and lively bistro and wine bar in an historic adobe near downtown Santa Fe. Specializes in creative, gourmet entrée salads that highlight local and organic ingredients, including produce from the owner’s farm! Mon - Sat, 11am - 9pm; Closed Sunday. 709 Don Cubero Alley, 505-820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com

taos Doc Martin’s, Taos Inn

Doc Martin’s Restaurant is a true Taos tradition, an acclaimed dining establishment located in a registered historic landmark. Executive Chef Zippy White specializes in fresh local food with a splash of the southwest, sourcing from regional farms and gardens. With over 400 wine selections, our world-class wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award of Excellence for twenty-one consecutive years. Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner, serving brunch on Saturday & Sunday. 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2233 www.taosinn.com

Taos Diner and Taos Diner II

Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown and organic breakfast, lunch and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. Many ingredients from local farms and ranches. Fair trade organic coffee, where the locals go! 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 Taos Diner II 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989

The Gorge Bar and Grill

A fun and casual restaurant, perfect for a delicious meal or cocktails and appetizers to top off the day. The menu is straightforward and yet eclectic, chock full of favorites with the special twist of The Gorge. Every dish on the menu is made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 East Taos Plaza, 575-758-8866 www.thegorgebarandgrill.com

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edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012


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Thanks to everyone who voted in this year’s Local Heroes poll. We appreciate your input, and knowing who you think are the champions of local food in Northern New Mexico. While we do our best to celebrate our local food heroes in every issue, these awards give our readers and community an opportunity to acknowledge the people on the ground doing the hard work. This year, we have introduced a special award called the Olla, intended to recognize and encourage individuals or organizations that have made significant contributions in the realm of good food work in Northern New Mexico, and who are creating a more robust local food system. We invite you to join us in a special awards ceremony at 5pm during the Mixing Bowl Commercial Kitchen & Delicious New Mexico’s annual open house at the South Valley Economic Development Center on December 7, 2012.

Farm Skarsgard Farms & ARCA ORGANICS

Organization Farm to Table

Food Artisan Heidi's Raspberry Jam

Beverage Artisan Marble - Brewmaster

Mobile Food Harvest Truck

Restaurant Farm & Table

Chef Jonathan Perno, Executive chef, Los Poblanos La Merienda

Retailer La Montanita Co-op

Olla Award Patrick Staib, UNM Research Service-Learning Program Faculty & Sustainable Development Consultant edible Santa Fe · Winter 2012

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you are what you eat the artichoke cafe 424 Central SE, Central & Edith | Albuquerque Lunch Mon-Fri | Dinner Mon-Sun 505/243-0200 | www.artichokecafe.com

505/243-0130 www.FarinaPizzeria.com 510 Central SE Albuquerque


Easy Holiday Shopping: 1. Buy Savoy, Zinc, Seasons gift certificates 2. Give to friends 3. Hope they invite you Give $500 in Gift Certificates, from Zinc, Savoy or Seasons and get $50 worth for yourself. It’s our gift to you. And for your holiday parties, try our new boutique catering service, Taste.

505.254.ZINC

505.294.WINE

505.766.5100

505.850.2459

www.zincabq.com

www.savoyabq.com

www.seasonsabq.com

www.tasteabq.com


edible Santa Fe Winter 2012