SANTA FE 庐路 ALBUQUERQUE 路 TAOS The Story
Local Food, Season
Women and Food Issue 31 路 SPRING 2014
MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM
Photo credits: Tim Keller & Michael Barley
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
80 years in the rio grande river valley
LUXURY AND PERFORMANCE ARE IN FULL BLOOM AT LEXUS OF ALBUQUERQUE & SANTA FE THE LEXUS HYBRID. SPRINGING UP ALL OVER NEW MEXICO.
2013 CT HYBRID $ 299/month + TT&L $ due at signing 0 Complimentary First Month’s Payment**
OF ALBUQUERQUE LEASE* 27 months, excludes official fees, taxes and dealer charges. No security deposit required. 10,000 mile/ year limit.
505.341.1600 | 4821 Pan American Freeway OF SANTA FE
505.216.3800 | 6824 Cerrillos Road
SPRING 2014 - WOMEN AND FOOD DEPARTMENTS
50 EAT LOCAL GUIDE
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
54 EDIBLE NOTABLES
FRONT OF THE HOUSE
56 BACK OF THE HOUSE
She's Got Spirit, By Ashlie Hughes
Recipes from Santa Fe Spirits, By Molly Norton
EDIBLE TRADITIONS Women and Food in the Southwestern Past, By Patricia L. Crown
Santa Fe School of Cooking, By Gail Guengerich
FE ATURES 17 THE THINKERS By Virginie Pointeau, Joanie Quinn, Jessica Rowland, and Jeannette Hart-Mann
23 THE GROWERS By Amy White
The Garden of Ms. O'Keeffe, By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher
26 THE RESTAURANTUERS
30 THE PRODUCERS
By Emily Beenen
WILD THING Women on the Rise as the Family Buck Winners, By Rachel Shockley
O N T H E C OV E R
Photo by Stephanie Cameron
By Andrea Feucht
By Valerie Ashe and Heidi Eleftheriou
37 THE MOVERS AND SHAKERS By Nissa Patterson, Lynn Walters, and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher
letter from the editor and publishers Last year we held several quarterly dinners, potlucks actually, for edible Santa Fe writers. We would gather to discuss issues in the local food economy, trends in agriculture, story ideas, and of course, food. Our third meeting of the year we brought our dishes to Farm & Table in Albuquerque’s North Valley. While discussing possible themes for upcoming issues, Cherie Austin, the restaurant's owner, suggested that we consider an issue on women and food— and nine months later here you have it. March is Women’s History month, a celebration declared by Jimmy Carter in 1980 to recognize the historic contributions of women in the US, and to write them into the stories that explain our collective past. During this month in New Mexico, a visionary group of women collaborate on the event series Women & Creativity, which celebrates women’s creativity and entrepreneurship across the disciplines. Together with writers, artists, performers, entrepreneurs, and many other talented and creative women, we bring you an issue of the stories of New Mexican women who shape the local food movement. History, when it has not overlooked women altogether, has often relegated us to the kitchen. So it would make sense that generations of experience over a hot stove and in a weedy garden would create the leadership in a movement aimed at changing the way we grow, distribute, cook, and consume food. As Jeanette Hart-Mann writes in her piece exploring the meaning of agriculture, food is the issue of this century. For a true grassroots shift in our food system, we must also rethink the way we construct history. It is imperative that we document, celebrate, and tell the stories not only of women, but also of the historically undocumented, disenfranchised, and unsung heroes who bring literal and metaphoric sustenance to the table, and who deserve a seat there. Many of this issue's contributions are from the women of local food, in thier own words; and all of our content was created by women. This issue is a history lesson—an effort to canonize many of the leaders of local food in New Mexico for their valuable and expert contributions to making healthy and sustainable food more accessible, more abundant, and more fun. Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Stephanie Cameron, and Walt Cameron
PS We joyfully announce that edible Santa Fe will publish five issues this year, but our subscription price will remain the same. When you subscribe, you will get every installment mailed to your door and an invite to a launch party. www.ediblesantafe.com/subscribe PPS We now have more content online. Look for farming, cooking, and fine dining stories from our dedicated staff of bloggers at www.ediblesantafe.com.
PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron
EDITOR Sarah Wentzel-Fisher
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jodi L. Vevoda
COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti, Willy Carleton
CONTRIBUTORS Valerie Ashe, Emily Beenen, Patricia L. Crown, Heidi Eleftheriou, Andrea Feucht, Gail Guengerich, Jeannette Hart-Mann, Ashlie Hughes, Nissa Patterson, Virgine Pointeau, Joanie Quinn, Jessica Rowland, Rachel Shockley, Lynn Walters, Amy White
DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron
PHOTOGRAPHY Stephanie Cameron, Mary Lambert Melanie West, Tamara Zibners
WEB AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITORS Stephanie Cameron, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher
ONLINE CONTRIBUTORS Ashlie Hughes, Gail Guengerich, Joseph Mora, Nissa Patterson, Sergio Salvador, Amy White
VIDEO PRODUCER D. Walt Cameron
ADVERTISING D. Walt Cameron, Gina Riccobono
CONTACT US: 3301-R Coors Blvd NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 email@example.com www.ediblesantafe.com Phone/Fax: 505-212-0791
SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-212-0791 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe five times a year. We distribute throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2014 All rights reserved.
Follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Pintrest
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
edible Santa Fe and ARCA announce our
TWO DAYS ONLY! Sunday, April 27
La Montañita Co-op Earth Day Celebration at Nob Hill in Albquerque
Saturday, May 3
A new culinary adventure… a new kind of fabulous around every corner.
Los Ranchos Growers Market in Albuquerque
ALL ORGANIC SEED STARTS GROWN IN THE ARCA ORGANICS GREENHOUSES
• • • • • • • • • •
Heirloom Tomatoes Eggplants Chiles Chiltepines Herbs Galore Watermelons Tabacco Cotton Cucumbers AND MORE!!
511 Old Santa Fe Trail | 505-982-2629 | Follow us on Facebook for specials.
New look New menu! The Compound A Santa Fe Tradition ~ reinvented!
edible SANTA FE Lunch • Dinner • Bar
We nurture thousands of native plant starts for the New Mexico garden, all sourced through Native Seeds/SEARCH and lovingly tended in the Arca Organics greenhouses. A portion of the proceeds will benefit our community partners at ARCA.
Reservations 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com photo: Kitty Leaken
For more information please visit www.ediblesantafe.com/plantsale
W I NE BI STRO
Charming Lunch, Dinner & Sunday Supper $6 glasses of wine all day until 6pm 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 â€˘ terracottawinebistro.com
AsiAn style sesAme sprinkle With Pure Wasabi.
awa r d w i n n i n g goat & cow cheeses Locally made cheeses including triple cream style bries, smoked gouda, artisan cheddar, and creamy chĂ¨vre in a variety of flavors.
On the farm in Estancia with Michael & Ed Lobaugh, owners of The Old Windmill Dairy.
$5 off $25 O W N E D
L O C A L L Y
225 Galisteo st., santa Fe, nM 87501
Mon-FRi: 10 am -6 pm , sat: 10 am -5 pm , sun: 11 am -4 pm ph: (505) 819-5659 . santaFe@savoRyspiceshop.coM F R E S H
G R O U N D
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
H A N D
C R A F T E D
Go to theoldwindmilldairy.com for cheese making
classes, events on the farm or to order your favorite cheese.
front of the house
She's Got Spirit By Ashlie Hughes ∙ Photo by Stephanie Cameron Molly Norton, a Santa Fe native, spent years working as a bartender for various watering holes. She became the tasting room and events manager at Santa Fe Spirits in the summer of 2013 when owner Colin Keegan opened a second tasting room in downtown Santa Fe. Cocktail culture interested Norton, but she confessed that when she started she knew how to make a mean margarita, but didn’t then know much about distilling. A fast learner, Norton can now spout off the details of a fine spirit from how the aging process happens to the complexity of flavor created by the five native botanicals in Wheeler’s Gin. In her new role, Norton wears many hats: hostess, educator, bartender, cocktail creator, and manager of a staff of seven. Her work brings her in constant contact with curious drinkers, and she often is the public face of Santa Fe Spirits. One of the most fulfilling aspects of her work is inventing cocktails for the tasting room menus and for special events with community partners. Norton describes the local bar community as collaborative and regularly seeks advice from Santa Fe mixologists Chris Milligan, James Reis, and Quinn Stevenson. She also collaborates with Kate Wheeler from Santa Fe’s Savory Spice Shop to create unique infusions and flavor combinations using the shop’s collection of spices. In her role as events manager, Norton has established relationships with many in the Santa Fe art community, and Santa Fe Spirits will often serve signature cocktails at gallery openings. Recently, she served the Molecule Cocktail, a custom creation at the Blow Away opening at Molecule Design Studio. Efforts like these keep her, her skills as a mixologist, and Santa Fe Spirits, in demand and a welcome addition to many social events around town. Norton has big dreams for Santa Fe Spirits. She hopes to open a third tasting room in Albuquerque, as well as continue to introduce locals and visitors to Santa Fe Spirits. She says that visiting one of their tasting rooms is different than a visit to a bar. All the cocktails are made with unique and local spirits, and the bar tender can talk to you in detail about how both the cocktail, and the alcohol in it, were made. While having a drink at Santa Fe Spirits can include an education, the tasting rooms can simply be an intimate place to go for happy hour. Ashlie Hughes is a food, travel, and cocktail writer currently living in Santa Fe. When she’s not writing, she enjoys playing home bartender, making wine with her husband’s family, and daydreaming about traveling the world. You can view her website at www.ashliehughes.com.
Distillery: 7505 Mallard Way, Santa Fe, 505-467-8892 Downtown Tasting Room: 308 Read Street, Santa Fe, 505-780-5906 www.santafespirits.com
Family owned from farm to cup www.villamyriam.com
Single Origin Coffee - 311 Gold Ave SW - (505) 814-1599
Save Waterwise Water and Healthy Santa Fe Conserve â€˘ Educate â€˘ Lead
City of Santa Fe Water Conservation Office 505.955.4225
It takes 33 gallons of water to grow a pound of carrots. But you can still have your vegetable garden and be a responsible water user by choosing your plants wisely and harvesting your rainwater. The City offers rainwater harvesting rebates for rain barrels and cisterns. Terms and conditions apply.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
liquid assets Recipes contributed by Molly Norton of Santa Fe Spirits. All spirits in the following recipes can be sourced at Santa Fe Spirits.
RAMBLE ON ROSE 3 ounces Expedition Vodka 1/2 ounce ginger simple syrup (see below) 1/4 ripe pear, peeled 2 â€“ 3 drops rose water 3 basil leaves Muddle 2 basil leaves, pear, simple syrup, and rose water in a pint glass. Add ice and vodka. Shake. Strain into a martini glass, garnish with a basil leaf.
QUEEN BEE 3 ounces Wheeler's Gin 1/2 ounce rosemary-agave simple syrup (see below) 1 juiced lemon Honey powder for rim Fill pint glass with ice. Add gin, simple syrup, and lemon juice. Shake. Strain into martini glass with honey powdered rim. Dress with rosemary sprig and lemon wheel.
COYOTE CACTUS 3 ounces Silver Coyote Whiskey 1/2 ounce prickly pear syrup 1 juiced lime Cinnamon sugar for rim Fill pint glass with ice. Add whiskey, lime juice, and prickly pear syrup. Shake. Strain into martini glass with sugared rim. Dust a lime wheel with cinnamon sugar, then float as garnish.
GINGER SIMPLE SYRUP Makes 32 drinks 1 cup sugar 1 cup water 2 tablespoons crushed ginger Boil water, then add sugar and ginger. Bring to boil again. Let cool. Store extra in a glass jar in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.
ROSEMARY-AGAVE SIMPLE SYRUP Makes 32 drinks 1 cup agave nectar 1 cup water 3 large rosemary sprigs
You can buy rose water, honey powder, and cinnamon from Savory Spice Shop. See page 35.
Boil water, then add agave nectar and rosemary. Bring to boil again. Let cool. Store extra in a glass jar in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.
cooking fresh Photos by Stephanie Cameron
This page: whole wheat yogurt pancakes
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
Opposite from top left, clockwise: green goddess salad, grilled beet salad, potatoes persillade, and spinach salad
GREEN GODDESS SALAD
From Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen Serves 4 Salad 4 large romaine leaves 1/2 pound Brussels sprouts 1/4 cup walnut pieces 1 ripe pear 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese Dressing 1/2 bunch cilantro 2 cloves garlic 2 teaspoons fresh squeezed lime juice 1 1/2 teaspoon honey 1/2 avocado 1/2 jalapeño 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper Wash romaine leaves. Dry and set aside. Blanch Brussels spouts for 2 – 3 minutes in salted boiling water, and then plunge into ice water bath to cool. Drain and set aside. Toast walnuts for 10 minutes in oven at 350° F, stirring occasionally for even browning.
Place all ingredients for dressing except the olive oil in a food processor and blend thoroughly. Then slowly drizzle in olive oil while continuing to blend until smooth and creamy. Toss Brussels sprouts and walnuts with dressing in a large bowl. Serve salad in a romaine leaf. Shave Parmesan cheese curls on top of each salad and garnish with pears and cracked black pepper.
WHOLE WHEAT YOGURT PANCAKES
Georgia O’Keeffe adapted this recipe from Stella Standard’s Whole Grains Cookery: A Gourmet Guide to Glowing Health. Makes 6 3-inch cakes 1/2 cup whole wheat flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup plain yogurt 2 egg yolks, beaten 1 tablespoon butter, melted 2 egg whites, stiffly beaten 1 – 2 tablespoons cooking oil Mix dry ingredients together, set aside. In a separate bowl, combine yogurt, beaten egg yolk, and melted butter. Add wet ingredients to dry mixture, then fork in stiffly beaten egg whites. Heat oil in a large skillet or griddle on medium high heat. Pour batter into your pan in 3-inch cakes. Cook about 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Serve with your favorite pancake toppings.
POTATOES PERSILLADE From Cooking with Kids Serves 4 to 6
Persil means parsley in French. Persillade is a mixture of chopped fresh parsley and chopped garlic that is used as a topping; added to sauces; or combined with bread crumbs and used as a stuffing or coating for meat, fish, or lamb. The topping makes this simple potato and cabbage dish something special. Potatoes and Cabbage 1 pound (about 3 medium) white rose or red potatoes, cubed 1 1/2 cups green cabbage, chopped 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon black pepper 1 tablespoon butter 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme, washed and minced Persillade 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small garlic clove, minced 3/4 cup whole-wheat breadcrumbs 1/4 cup parsley, washed and chopped 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest Scrub the potatoes and rinse the cabbage. Cut the potatoes into 1/4-inch cubes. Chop the cabbage. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Carefully add the potatoes to the boiling water. Cook over high heat for 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are almost tender. Add the cabbage and cook for 5 minutes more, until bright green. Drain the potatoes and cabbage in a colander, then return them to the pot. Add the salt, pepper, butter, and thyme. While the potatoes are cooking, make the parsley topping. Wash the parsley and lemon. In a skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and breadcrumbs. Cook, stirring often, until the breadcrumbs are toasted, about 7 minutes. Stir in the parsley and lemon zest and cook for one minute more. Remove from the heat. Toss gently. Serve the potatoes and cabbage topped with the persillade.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
SPINACH SALAD WITH FRENCH VINAIGRETTE From Cooking with Kids Serves 4 to 6
Vinaigrette 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or cider vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon black pepper 1/3 cup olive oil Spinach Salad 2 â€“ 3 ounces baby spinach 1/2 head romaine lettuce, chopped 1 cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced 1/4 fennel bulb, thinly sliced In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, lemon juice, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Slowly, add the olive oil, whisking constantly until the mixture is smooth. Set the dressing aside. Wash the lettuce, spinach, cucumbers and fennel. Tear the lettuce into 2-inch pieces. Cut the fennel bulb into long thin slivers. Put all the vegetables into a serving bowl. Just before serving, pour the vinaigrette over the salad and toss until the salad is evenly coated. Serve immediately.
GRILLED BEET SALAD From Savory Spice Shop Serves 6
3 large beets, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick 1 preserved lemon, diced* 1 teaspoon ground cumin* 1/4 teaspoon pepper 1/4 cup rice vinegar 4 ounces feta Young greens (arugula or spinach) Preheat grill to medium high. Grill beets about 5 â€“ 7 minutes per side. Chop to 1/4-inch cubes. In a medium bowl toss beets with preserved lemon, cumin, pepper, and rice vinegar. Mix and chill at least one hour. Serve on top of greens topped with feta cheese. *Find at the Savory Spice Shop, see page 35.
cooking fresh CARIBBEAN GRILLED FISH TACOS WITH LIME CREMA From Savory Spice Shop Makes 8 tacos
Lime Crema 8 ounces sour cream 1 tablespoon grated lime zest 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice Grilled Fish 1 pound mahi mahi or halibut filets 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons Bajan seasoning* Juice of half a lime Tacos 8 corn or small flour tortillas 1 cup cabbage, shredded 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves 1 cup queso fresco, or other mild cheese, crumbled 1 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered 1 avocado, diced 1/2 cup red onion, thinly sliced For lime crema, combine ingredients together in a small bowl and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving. To prepare the tacos, preheat the grill to a medium-high heat. Rub fish filets with oil and then coat each filet with Bajan seasoning. Grill for 2 minutes per side, until cooked through with nice grill marks. Remove from heat, sprinkle with lime juice and cut into 1/2-inch chunks. Place tortillas on the grill for 30 â€“ 60 seconds per side. Fill each tortilla with grilled fish and top with desired fixings and a dollop of lime crema. These tacos work well with chicken or shrimp and any of Savory Spice Shopâ€™s Caribbeaninspired blends, like Jamaican Jerk or Caribbean Style Adobo. *Find at the Savory Spice Shop, see page 35.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
cooking fresh ELK SHEPHERD’S PIE From Rachel Shockley Serves 4 to 6
My husband’s cheese-topped elk shepherd’s pie includes Kalamata olives and garlic cloves, making it a bit spicier and richer than the original. Pair it with a fresh spring salad for dinner or make a double batch to freeze for later. Meat filling 2 large cloves of garlic, crushed 1/4 red bell pepper, chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound ground elk 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper 1/4 teaspoon Italian seasoning 1/2 teaspoon basil 1/2 teaspoon thyme 2 – 3 carrots, chopped into pennies 1 tablespoon butter 1/2 cup pitted Kalamata olives Mashed potato topping 1 1/4 pounds red potatoes, cubed 1 cup milk or cream 1/4 stick butter 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning 1/2 cup sharp cheddar cheese, grated
Layer the meat mixture into a 9-inch pie plate and spread the mashed potatoes on top. Top with cheese. Bake until cheese is bubbling and brown, about 30 minutes.
RED CHILE CHARD ENCHILADAS From Cecilia Rosacker Serves 6 to 8
24 whole red chile pods 3 – 4 garlic cloves 2 bunches chard 1 onion, diced 2 tablespoons oil plus 1/4 cup for tortillas 1 dozen corn tortillas 2 cups cheddar cheese Clean red chile pods by cutting stem end and removing seeds. Bring to a boil a large stockpot 3/4 full of water. Add the chiles and turn down to a very low simmer, allowing them to thoroughly soften, but not fall apart. Time will vary depending on the chile and its dryness. Remove from heat and let cool for about 10 minutes. While the chiles soak, prepare the chard. Clean and remove stems. Dice stems and onions, and roughly chop chard leaves,
keeping separate. In a large, deep skillet, sauté onions and stems until softened. Add chard leaves to onion and stem mix; cover to steam until bright in color and just softening. In a blender, combine chiles, 3 – 4 cloves garlic, and liquid from the chiles to fill to 3/4 full. Blend on high until a smooth sauce. Pour chile sauce over chard and simmer on low to medium heat allowing water to evaporate and sauce to thicken slightly. If your chile sauce is already thick, add 1 1/2 cups additional chile water to the mix, then reduce with the chard. Grate cheese and set aside. Preheat the oven to 350º F. Over mediumhigh heat in a small skillet, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil. Fry each tortilla for about 30 seconds on each side. In a 9 x 12-inch casserole dish, layer 4 corn tortillas then cover with about 1/3 of the chard chile mixture, then 1/3 of the grated cheese. Repeat until you have 3 layers. Bake in the oven for about 20 minutes or until the cheese bubbles. Serve with a fried egg.
Preheat the oven to 400º F. Boil potatoes until tender. While potatoes cook, gently sauté garlic in a large pan in 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Set aside two cloves of the sautéed garlic for the mashed potatoes. Add ground elk, red bell pepper, and the remainder of the olive oil to the garlic. Brown elk over low heat and add spices as it cooks. Steam carrots until just soft, and then toss in butter until melted. Add carrots and olives to the meat and stir to mix well. Strain water from the potatoes. Heat milk and butter in a small saucepan or in the microwave just until butter melts. Combine with potatoes and mash until creamy, stir in garlic and spices, and add salt to taste. The mashed potatoes should be very flavorful and easy to spread.
Women and Food in the Southwestern Past By Patricia L. Crown, Distinguished Professor of Anthropology, University of New Mexico
Above: Woman grinding corn in grinding room, Cochiti Pueblo - 1937 Soil Conservation Service Collection On the right: Typical late prehispanic cooking jar Photographer Bernie Bernard Photos courtesy of the Maxwell Museum of Anthropology
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
Everyone needs food to survive, but where did people get their food before there were markets in the Southwest? Who prepared the food? How was it served? And who made the tools to produce, gather, or capture food, and then prepare and serve it? For anthropologists, diet is what you eat; cuisine is how that food is prepared and served. Cuisines encode cultural beliefs, even if these are enacted unconsciously. They vary based on cultural norms, such as how many meals people eat a day, how they eat them, who prepares the food, and what types of utensils and serving dishes are used. As an example, when was the last time you served termites for dinner? In the Southwest, farming began at least four thousand years ago. By about 200 BC, turkeys were raised for feathers and later used as a source of meat. Multiple lines of evidence indicate that women were the cooks in the Southwestern past. In the archeological past in New Mexico, people obtained their own food by capturing or keeping animals for meat, and by growing or gathering their own plants. Studies of current small-scale societies worldwide show that adult females almost always cook and serve food. This pattern remains true as long as food is primarily prepared in households for household members and guests, or even for larger community feasts. Once cooking leaves the household and becomes a paying job (for instance, as chefs in restaurants), men are more likely to be involved, a pattern that holds in all Southwestern groups as described in early historic documents. The few pre-Hispanic images from the Southwest that depict cooking show women engaged in the activity. Cooking implements were placed in burials with adult females, but not with males. Studies of upper body musculature in ancient Southwestern farming societies show that males had asymmetrical right versus left upper arm muscles, presumably from activities such as drawing a bow. Women had very robust and symmetrical upper arm muscles, which indicates they performed activities that affected both arms equally. Most likely, this was grinding seeds, particularly corn, into meal. So women cooked and probably also gathered wild plants, did some hunting (particularly smaller animals caught with traps or snares), and helped with farming.
Another pattern in small-scale societies is that people crafted the tools they use. Likewise women in the ancient Southwest likely made their own tools for processing, cooking, and serving food. This involved experimenting with materials and shapes to create designs that performed well for each particular need. A household minimally required tools for storing, cutting, grinding, mixing, cooking over a fire, stirring, and serving food. The variety of different cooking and food storage implements increased through time, suggesting a more varied cuisine. The variety of serving vessels owned by individual households increased over time as well, probably indicating consumption of more different foods in a variety of contexts. This included luxury foods, such as chocolate drinks, served in food-specific containers that signaled both contents and status to onlookers, much the way martini glasses signal to onlookers today. Such elaboration came with a price: archaeologists believe that womenâ€™s workloads increased during the Southwestern past. Historic documents reported that Pueblo women spent as many as five hours each day grinding corn. Southwestern women knew which plants in their environment were edible, how to grow a variety of domesticated plants, how to capture small game, how to prepare foods, how to make the tools needed to prepare meals, appropriate ways to serve meals, and the prayers and rituals associated with all of these activities. Learning all of this started early; girls helped their mothers and were expected to have all the skills needed to run their own households by about age fifteen. The way a woman prepared and served a meal communicated non-verbal messages about her industriousness, skill, knowledge, generosity, and her householdâ€™s wealth and access to luxury foods. Women, and their families, undoubtedly engaged in what anthropologists call gastro-politics: competition and conflict surrounding transactions involving food. Meals honored guests or potentially insulted them; meals created obligations or repaid debts. Meals reinforced societal beliefs, passing on traditions and knowledge through daily rituals and larger gatherings. Ultimately, meals helped to normalize social standings and provided one important means to change them. Patricia Crown is a Distinguished Professor of Anthropology at UNM. Her research interests include Southwestern archaeology, gender, ceramics, and as much chocolate as possible.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
VIRGINIE POINTEAU ∙ JOANIE QUINN ∙ JESSICA ROWLAND ∙ JEANNETTE HART-MANN Great ideas may come from individuals, who spend time in isolated contemplation, but when we come together to reflect and converse, we participate in an essential part of the local food movement. As much as we need farmers and artisans and politicians, we need those who make a practice of exploring ideas with others. These women represent some of those thinking deeply and who are engaged in Socratic conversation about our food systems. In this section, each talks about her work as a way to provoke curiosity, questions, conversation, and learning.
San Juan Ranch, Photo by Drew Cole
A New Generation of Sustainable Ranchers By Virginie Pointeau, Quivira Coalition’s New Agrarian Program “As I look back at this past year, I feel I have grown tremendously both personally and professionally. I am not going to say it was all easy; most of it was incredibly difficult. But I find the adverse times create the best times, and I feel fortunate to have had this experience. There are times when I will be out working, whether it is fixing a fence, moving a herd of cows, or looking at a grass plant, and I am filled with an overwhelming feeling of satisfaction. I am so happy— relieved almost—to know this world of ranching is my world. I cannot imagine doing anything else.”—Amy Wright, Quivira Coalition New Agrarian Program Apprentice, 2011–2013.
Quivira Coalition is a nonprofit organization based in Santa Fe, New Mexico. It is dedicated to building resilience by fostering ecological, economic, and social health on Western working landscapes. We do this through education, innovation, collaboration, and progressive public and private land stewardship. As the director for Quivira’s New Agrarian Program (NAP), I partner with ranchers and farmers on sustainable agricultural operations throughout the Southwest to develop and implement in-depth, hands-on apprenticeships for new and aspiring agrarians. We target young people who have some experience in agriculture and, more importantly, who have demonstrated
commitment to a life and career at the intersection of sustainable agriculture and environmental stewardship. This time of year I tend to spend some quality time in the local cafes, using the piles of applications I need to read as an excuse to indulge in a cappuccino or two. Yesterday, I read through applications for a twelvemonth, in-residence ranching apprenticeship on the San Juan Ranch, a small, one hundred percent grass-based cow-calf and finishing operation located in the vast expanse of the San Luis Valley of Colorado. Of the eleven applicants, five are women; and over half of the top applicants most likely to WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM
be chosen for phone interviews are women, in a field that has traditionally been dominated by men. This isn’t to say that our male apprentices haven’t been equally dedicated. However, both 2012 and 2013 application pools revealed the same consistent pattern. Our current San Juan Ranch apprentice, Drew Cole, continues to persevere through long days even as the winter deepens and temperatures continue to drop in the valley,
and through it all his enthusiasm and sense of humor remain intact. The NAP started in 2008, initially as ranch apprenticeships, and then diversifying to include both a dairy, and a laying hen and spruce tree farm. Of the five apprentices trained at the San Juan Ranch since the program’s inception, three were women. At James Ranch Artisan Cheese, a small, organic, grassbased dairy and cheese-making operation in Durango, Colorado, four of the five NAP apprentices to date have been women. The one advanced ranch management apprenticeship that we have offered—in partnership with the Chico Basin Ranch in Colorado Springs, Colorado—was for one of our women graduates, Amy Wright. After graduating from her one-year apprenticeship on the San Juan Ranch, Wright made the decision to stay on for a second calving season. She took on the role of ranch foreman for almost five months before she was ready to commit to a second full apprenticeship, this time with the Chico. There she took on substantially more responsibility, which included managing her own herd of cattle. The Chico offers both internships and apprenticeships, with their apprenticeships requiring previous
experience in ranching and on horseback, and a minimum two-year commitment. Wright was the Chico’s first female apprentice and, as such, played a pioneering role in introducing her leadership and initiative in herd and range management. In my many conversations with her throughout her first year at the Chico, gender never made it to her list of concerns. She was too busy thinking about ensuring water access for her herd, or maintaining the fence line, or figuring out when to put additional time into training the horses. In many ways, this is great news. It means that, increasingly, as women and men share the workload on ranches, the division of labor is based more on individual drive and talent. As the New Agrarian Program Director for the Quivira Coalition, Virginie partners with farmers and ranchers to offer eight- to twelve-month, in-depth apprenticeships for young agrarians.
Left: Amy Wright Photo by Elaine Patarini, Catchlight Studios
Local and Organic, Two Peas in a Pod? By Joanie Quinn, New Mexico Department of Agriculture Organic Program
“Would you rather have local or organic?” is a question I hope never to hear again. The two labels address entirely different issues, and I want both. This is why. The Choice Choosing local addresses questions of freshness and reduces the number of miles food is transported to reach our plates, including the energy that is consumed in that transport. As a rule, it means that money you paid for your food will stay in your community, and often the farmer gets a bigger chunk of the
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
purchase price, thus helping keep farmland active in our state and in our communities. These are all good things and I want to support them. Choosing local does not address other issues I care about: the farming practices used to produce the product, the inputs that were applied, or the steps taken to conserve water and build soil. Choosing organic addresses questions concerning how produce, meat, milk, or fiber was raised or grown. Organic is shorthand for a method of farming that relies on nature’s processes to produce food and fiber while en-
hancing biological diversity and protecting our natural resources. It means that no antibiotics were used in livestock; no genetically modified seeds or plants were used to produce crops or feed animals; synthetic pesticides and fertilizers have been replaced with natural substances such as powdered rock, compost, green manure, and cover crops; and insects are managed by rotating crops, creating habitat for beneficial species and increasing biodiversity. Organic production means that soil and water must be conserved and water cannot be polluted with agricultural runoff. Organic production aims to minimize off-farm inputs.
"Buying food involves lots of personal choices: Is it fresh? Is it something you like to eat? Is it something you know how to prepare? Is it affordable? Is it healthy for you?" The Label
What is the definition of local? Who decides? How do you know?
Do the labels local or organic guarantee absence of synthetic chemicals in our food? No. Even the snow in Antarctica contains pesticide residue. Organic production minimizes the residue found on and in our food and ensures that further residue is not added to the planetary burden. Food labeled local may or may not play a similar role, depending on the practices employed by the farmer.
Without an accepted definition of local food, the label is regularly used and abused. Caveat emptor on this one, but most farmers markets in the state do a good job of ensuring that products sold there are grown or raised in New Mexico. Talk to your local farmer. The label organic, by law, requires adherence to federal standards for organic production and an annual inspection, as well as certification by an accredited third party auditor to verify compliance with the standards. Some growers choose not to pursue organic certification because they feel the program is another example of onerous federal regulation of farming. It is good to remember that farmers and consumers in the 1990s demanded that the federal government control the use of the label organic to protect consumers from unscrupulous claims. Because organic certification is an additional burden, farmers who choose to assume it should be celebrated. Only some produce and meat sold at farmers markets is organic. If you want to purchase organic products at the market, look for the USDA or NMDA organic seal or ask to see the farmerâ€™s organic certificate. Most of us end up supplementing farmers market purchases with trips to a grocery store. Look for the words "organic" or "certified organic" on labels and signs at local grocers to make sure you are getting organic products.
Buying food involves lots of personal choices: Is it fresh? Is it something you like to eat? Is it something you know how to prepare (I had an epic struggle with cardoon long ago)? Is it affordable? Is it healthy for you? For many of us there are also broader environmental and social questions: Was this crop grown in a way that caused erosion of the soil? Was a lot of fuel used to transport the crop to market? Does production of that crop help support our local economy? Did runoff from fertilizers pollute our water? Were the animals treated humanely? Each of us will make slightly different choices depending on our needs and values. Make mine organic and local! Joanie Quinn is the New Mexico Department of Agricultureâ€™s Organic Advisor. She helps organic farmers with the certification process, production problems, and marketing.
Photo by Stephanie Cameron
Growing a New Generation of Food Systems Leaders By Jessica Rowland, University of New Mexico Sustainability Studies Program
I never intended to have a career in food and agriculture. I had, in fact, spent most of my teens and twenties trying to get as far away as possible from the agrarian lifestyle and the family farm I had known as a child. The damp evergreen forests and expansive pastures in western Washington were beautiful, but the chores were unending and oftentimes performed in pouring rain. Although it wasnâ€™t remotely hip back then, my family ate mostly local, homegrown food. We raised cattle, pigs, and chickens in our desolate little valley, and grew a variety of fruits and vegetables. Every summer we took a gamble on choosing correctly the single fiveday window of consistent sunshine, during which we would frantically bale acres and acres of hay.
crops often rotted in water-logged soil instead of shriveling in sun-parched earth. In the gardens we battled moles, slugs, snails, and deer, rather than squash bugs, leafcutters, spider mites, and cabbage moths. But, the fundamental challenges remain similar regardless of climate, geography, or scale: Can you make a living, feed your family good food, and do work that is personally fulfilling, as well as good for the land and your community?
Planning the month-long summer immersion experience connected me with a diverse network of growers, processors, restaurateurs, advocates, educators, and others across New Mexico. I was impressed by the richness of the stateâ€™s local food system, and quickly realized that food was the perfect starting point from which to begin a dialogue about sustainability. Sustainability is all about balancing that proverbial stool on the three legs: environmental health, economic vitality, and social equity. Without adequate consideration of all three components, the stool will not stand upright for long. The current industrial food system has on the whole disregarded two of the legs in exchange for singular pursuit of profit.
In some ways the farming challenges my family faced in the Pacific Northwest were the opposite of the ones we encounter in the high desert of New Mexico. We had too much rain as opposed to not enough. Our
These are the questions I now think about every day. After attempting a career in environmental consulting, I wanted to engage in more meaningful community-based work. In retrospect, it was a logical offshoot of my formal academic training in climate change science (and a happy accident) to become a lecturer in the University of New Mexico Sustainability Studies Program. Given the opportunity three years ago to develop our programâ€™s Summer Foodshed Field School, I knew that food systems would become my focus.
Above left: Foodshed field school at Gemini Farm in Truchas, New Mexico. Photo by Bruce Milne. Above right: Working with students at Santa Cruz Farm. Photo by German Martinez.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
As such, the Sustainability Studies program is committed to engaging students in educational and research opportunities that advance food system transformation. By building a strong foundation of knowledge and encouraging collaborative, real-world interactions, students can grow into leaders
who incorporate sustainable solutions into their lives and work. Through the process of connecting with community experts and potential mentors, students begin to identify opportunities and dream up career paths. In New Mexico, the story of food and agriculture is one that is intimately intertwined with history and tradition. Food is the great integrator, and the concepts of healthy, fair, and culturally appropriate food tend to resonate with our students on a visceral level. Food systems work is often community based, hands-on, and results in tangible (albeit incremental) change. Because many of our students are part of the millennial generation that places heavy emphasis on community engagement and social entrepreneurship, they are hungry to be involved in a movement that drives systemic change. It is no surprise then that Sustainability Studies students choose careers in food and agriculture. A number of young women from our programâ€”who have participated in the field school and the Lobo Growers Marketâ€” are now directly involved in the local food value chain through farming, value-added production, culinary arts, community health, film, education, and marketing. In some cases
their work specifically targets underserved, minority, and veteran communities. Currently, much of the energy and leadership behind local food systems development in New Mexico stems from a multi-sectoral group of women devoted to working collaboratively and at the community level. Graduates from Sustainability Studies who pursue careers in food and agriculture have looked to this exemplary group of female leaders for guidance and mentorship. As an educator and a sustainability advocate and practitioner, hardly anything is more rewarding than having students become colleagues. In order to facilitate this transition, it is essential to actively mentor young men and women dedicated to nurturing a vibrant economy, sustaining a resilient environment, and ensuring equitable access to healthy food for all New Mexicans. We must cultivate a generation of leaders for whom food systems transformation is a viable, accessible career. Jessica Rowland is a lecturer and education coordinator in the UNM Sustainability Studies Program. She is an avid backyard gardener and outdoor enthusiast, and an advocate of local foodshed development and low-carbon living.
photo ÂŠ tab62
By Jeanette Hart-Mann, SeedBroadcast The state of food today is arguably the most complex and problematic in the history of human life on earth. Population growth; food safety; food shortages; environmental disasters effecting food systems; malnutrition and nutritional diseases; depletion of ecological resources such as healthy soils, water, and open-pollinated seed; genetic engineering of agricultural organisms; use of billions of tons of herbicides and pesticides; the globalization of industrial monoculture; and the proprietary nature of industry and capital to challenge the independent food rights of people world-wide make food the critical issue of our century.
This crisis is ironic. In this complex problem is bound a pervasive paradigm, which normalizes the idea and practice of simplification and total control over nature through homogenization, mechanization, and efficiency. The chief objective of industrial agriculture in the twentieth century is to produce more, faster, and with greater profit margins. It commodifies food, soils, plants, animals, and people, while formulating them as predictable cogs within the industrial furrow of production and consumption. And this is the only viable way to feed billions in the face of climate change and eminent disaster, claim specialists, politicos, and corporations.
There is no other choice—only another Green Revolution will save us. Or so the propaganda goes. Yet, a revolution grows in response to these claims. Globally, a grassroots movement of individuals and communities reclaim agricultural knowledge from the past and work creatively with resiliency of nature and ecology to invigorate alternative food production processes. From urban aquaponics to rural polyculture farms, from wildcrafters to gleaners to locavores, from community gardens to edible suburban front yards, people relocate sustenance in their everyday lives and demand a participatory agricultural. This activity is not organized and orchestrated by government agencies, or influenced by pop culture icons, or spiritual gurus. Many hardworking, dedicated, and passionate individuals—from many backgrounds, many cultures, and many professions—cultivate an intimate and active relationship with food, landscapes, biota, healthy communities, and a sense of agency. They live and work in diverse eco-niches and foodsheds around the globe. This emphasis on many enunciates biodiversity, it engages environmental and cultural resiliency as a spectrum, and a hope for the future, instead of the homogeneity proposed by industrial agriculture. It is this viable solution to the global food crisis that comes from many lands and hands. Food is radical. It is rooted to our primal need for sustenance and it binds us to a fundamental daily relationship with the biological world, with ecology, nature, the earth, and each other. This movement is a commitment to cultivate not just a field for food but also food for thought and our deepest articulation of life. When individuals and communities globally take up this shift in food practices and make it a part of their daily lives or value the local foodshed—its plants, animals, soils, and farmers—they reassert the culture in agri-Culture. They empower the intellectual and the creative in the daily labor-of-love digging in the dirt; honor the food touched by hands and mouths; take time to listen to the stories of seeds; or grow stories by planting a seed. These processes are not created by rock stars, the mass media, or government policies. The many cultivate these agri-Cultural processes—they write a creative and powerful future of diversity, resiliency, adaptability, agency, and empathy. Jeanette Hart-Mann is a farmer, artist, teacher, and collective cohort of SeedBroadcast, Fodder Project Collaborative Research Farm, and Land Arts of the American West. She lives in Anton Chico, New Mexico. Learn more about her work at www.seedbroadcast.org.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
The Growers WOMEN OF AGRICULTURE By Amy White
Top left, clockwise: Mona Angel, Margret Campos, Cecilia Rosacker, and Nancy Coonridge. Page 24: Coonridge goat
Mona Angel “Young farmers need mentors and the support of their peers,” says Mona Angel of Laughing Turtle Farm. This is especially important because New Mexico has the highest average age of farmers in the nation at nearly sixty years old. Thirty-seven percent of our farmers are over sixty-five years old, also the highest percentage of any state. Key to a sustainable local food economy is making farming a viable career for young people, and Angel is always looking for ways to build support networks and learning opportunities for herself and her fellow farmers. While earning a master’s degree at the University of New Mexico in regional and community planning, Angel worked as the coordinator of the Lobo Gardens, where she developed the Extreme Local program with Chartwells dining services, the food service provider for the university. Chartwells purchases produce grown on campus in the Lobo Gardens to serve in dining halls, a relationship with a real client that provides support for the program. The student-led initiative currently has four community garden plots on campus, work-study positions for garden maintenance, and an ongoing coordinator position. Ad-
ditionally, it offers students, faculty, and staff opportunities to educate themselves and their communities about growing food sustainably. Angel and her partner, Anne Carpenter, now farm the historic King Orchard and a smaller plot in Albuquerque's North Valley. They found both properties through LandLink, a service provided by the Mid-Region Council of Governments that matches aspiring farmers with land and mentorship opportunities. As part of their commitment to other growers, they teach permaculture classes at the Albuquerque Open Space Visitor Center on Coors north of Montaño. Permaculture is an agricultural philosophy of creating self-sustaining systems modeled on natural ecosystems. With help from a PNM grant, they will create a two-acre “food forest” which mimics a woodland ecosystem but uses fruiting trees and shrubs interplanted with lower-growing edible perennials and annuals. In 2012, Angel and Carpenter started the Fairfield Growers' Cooperative with a few other farmers in Albuquerque, Los Lunas, and Bosque Farms. They share tools, help each other with work, and pool their resources to take advantage of economies of scale in purchasing
seeds and supplies. Collectively they also have access to more markets, such as restaurants and institutions that would not be viable working alone. Most importantly, they share information, with each other and with volunteers and interns. It's not always easy, but it helps to work together, and Angel says it gets better every year.
Cecilia Rosacker Cecilia Rosacker has been a trailblazer in building the local food economy, and was one of a handful of farmers to start the Downtown Growers Market. She encourages her customers to try delicacies like okra, long beans, heirloom tomatoes, and eggplants, in an effort excite and engage the public about the benefits of farming. She also helped launch the farm-to-table trend in Albuquerque by selling her organic produce to restaurants in the 1990s. On her thirty acres north of Socorro, Rosacker grows about two acres of vegetables and raises organic beef on the remaining pasture. She looks at farming not so much as a business but as a way to care for her family; her collegeaged sons have helped on the farm since they were little, and they grow what they like to eat. Rosacker believes the true foundation of the local food economy is the land. She grew up on a farm in the Pojoaque Valley, where she saw family farms disappear, being subdivided and developed. As an adult, she recognized the need to protect the agricultural way of life for her two sons and her community. She served on the board of the New Mexico Farmers' Marketing Association for ten years, and the New Mexico Food and Agriculture Policy Council for five years. Now, she is executive director of the Rio Grande Agricultural Land Trust, an organization founded by local farmers and conservationists at her kitchen table in 1997. Through the Rio Grande Agricultural Land Trust, landowners can put some or all of their property into a conservation easement, which forever protects the land's value for agriculture, wildlife habitat, or open space. The landowner relinquishes the development rights to the land and works with the Land Trust to develop specific restrictions protecting its conservation value. The landowner retains ownership
and manages the land as he or she chooses; the Land Trust monitors and ensures the deed restrictions are not violated. At the root of her work, Rosacker is motivated by the desire to share with younger people the empowerment that comes with a sense of belonging and contributing to their community, providing for themselves and others through farming. In 2013, Western Planner awarded her Citizen Planner of the Year, saying, “She is a model citizen planner because she is both planner and participant.” Rosacker works tirelessly to ensure that there will be land for farming, the very basis of a sustainable local food economy.
Nancy Coonridge Nancy Coonridge sets an inspiring example for land conservation practices in ranching. She produces something marvelous from a sparse landscape that cannot be used for growing much. Her rocky piece of land outside Pie Town is not very good for cattle, but it’s great for goats. The goats lead a natural life roaming freely, protected by their Maremma guardian dogs. They eat wild plants that humans can’t digest that grow on Coonridge’s rocky high elevation ranch, allowing lowland farms to be used for growing things people can eat. Her herd is a combination of Alpine goats, thrifty and well suited to harsh conditions, and Nubian and La Mancha goats, whose milk is very rich. Coonridge engages in a continual process of cross-breeding to increase the fat and protein in the goats' milk while retaining their hardy character, so that they become ever more suited to her specific place. Their diet of wild plants increases cancer-fighting conjugated linoleic acids and omega-3 fatty acids in their milk. She is also constantly refining the cheesemaking process, and is interested in experimenting with true vegetable rennet from natural sources such as thistle or stinging nettle. She tries to practice the lowest impact production methods possible. Cornucopia, a watchdog group for organic and sustainable agriculture, has given her certified organic goat cheese the highest possible rating because of her commitment to good land and water use. In 2010, she was named New Mexico Organic Farmer of the Year. Even though she lives in a very isolated place, Coonridge maintains many connections with others engaged in sustainable and organic food production in New Mexico. She works with Four Bridges Traveling Permaculture Institute and gives traditional cheesemaking classes at their yearly conference in Española. She enjoys attending the New Mexico Organic Farmers’ Conference to meet others who think similarly and have the same challenges. Coonridge sells her cheeses through La Montañita Co-op and a distributor, Bountiful Cow, but her favorite way to sell is at festivals, where she enjoys getting feedback and new ideas. Coonridge also does her fair share of education and advocacy. She often hosts interns or WWOOFers (Willing Workers on Organic Farms) from around the world, training them in the cheesemaking process. Caring for the goats gives people the opportunity to see that farming is hard work, and perhaps to find satisfaction in it. She has testified before the Organic Standards Committee about making organic pasturing standards equal for producers large and small, and she often shares her wisdom and experience at all manner of food and farming conferences.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
For Coonridge, life is an ongoing process of becoming more self-sufficient. By demonstrating such highly sustainable ranching practices and sharing her knowledge with others, she helps make the local food economy more sustainable.
Margaret Campos Margaret Campos loves to feed people. As she says, “You can't come to my house and not eat!” She works to build a sustainable local food economy by connecting consumers with local produce and by inspiring people to cook and eat good food. With her mother, Eremita Campos, she hosts cooking classes each summer at their farm in Embudo. The day starts with a farm tour, harvesting, and grazing, then progresses to cooking in traditional ways using an outdoor horno, and finishes with a hearty meal. Campos farms because she likes to eat, and she wants her kids to know how to feed themselves—from the ground up. Yearround, the farm offers an array of vegetables and berries. This spring she hopes to realize her long-held dream of setting up fresh food vending machines, doing business as Los Loco'ls, first in Española, then expanding into Santa Fe. The machines will sell salads, savory pies, and desserts made with fresh berries, all from her farm and expanding to other local farms. “With the epidemic of diabetes in our state,” she says, “wouldn't it be great if people had healthier alternatives at their workplaces?” Campos also serves as a board member with Farm to Table, a nonprofit that promotes locally based agriculture through education, community outreach, and networking. The organization is noted for its policy work with the state legislature, helping school districts buy local produce at fair prices from local farmers. Over sixty of New Mexico’s one hundred and eight districts are now able to purchase New Mexico grown produce—fresher, bettertasting produce—that supports the local food economy and inspires students to actually want to eat their vegetables. Campos is committed to making local produce more accessible to local people, especially in Rio Arriba County, where there are many farms but few distribution points. She helped start New Mexico Homegrown, an effort by Siete del Norte Community Development Corporation to enhance the local farming economy by convening retail, wholesale, and institutional buyers with the farmers of northern New Mexico. Homegrown works with the City of Española, Rio Arriba County, the Española Community Market, and farmers cooperatives such as Los de Mora and Cosecha del Norte, in an effort to develop a food hub facility based in Española for processing, aggregation, and distribution of local produce. She strongly believes that everyone is entitled to good food, and if given access, people will choose to eat healthier, locally grown food. Blogger Amy White is totally obsessed with vegetables and fruits. Amy can be found on www.ediblesantafe.com and on her blog, www.veggieobsession.com.
Join us and experience delicious food brought to you by local farmers, ranchers and food artisans. Month of March – Women & Creativity (see website) March 4 – Farm & Table’s 2nd Birthday Dinner with Guest Chef Cathy Whims | 6:30pm | $95 March 25 – RISE: Celebrate Women & Food | 7pm | $75 April 22 – Forage & Gather: Earth Day | 6:30pm | $65 May 27 – Marble Beer Dinner | 7pm | $65 June 17 – French Gypsy Jazz | 7pm | $125 Seating for special prix-fixe dinners is limited. Please RSVP at firstname.lastname@example.org
8917 4th St NW
Albuquerque, NM 87114
Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm
The Restaurateurs By Andrea Feucht
Erin Wade, Vinaigrette Many Santa Feans already know the name Erin Wade. Opening Vinaigrette back in 2008, she has quickly raised the local salad standard. No one balks at paying fifteen dollars or twenty dollars for a hunk of steak and a potato even if the origins of both are unknown, but pay twenty dollars for a salad? But then, consider the effort it takes—to pull those peppery greens from the soil, to make local feta, to grow then toast pecans, and to raise then roast an organic chicken breast— and you might actually consider Vinaigrette's Cherry Tart Salad with roasted chicken a bargain. Vinaigrette couldn’t have started without the Wade family farm, a ten-acre plot near Nambe that had gone practically to junkyard status. After college, Wade spent a year in Milan pursuing an art career. In the embrace of Europe, she experienced a joy in food—creativity with flavors, simple pleasure in eating—that left an impression and led her right back to Nambe. After cleaning up the property and fixing up the onsite house, the farm was reborn. The most satisfying fruits of Wade’s labor were in building salads— fresh veggies (not just lettuce), chopped nuts and cheeses, and excel26
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
lent protein—that didn’t seem to be available anywhere in town. She wondered why it was hard to get a really creative and amazing salad in a food Mecca like Santa Fe. Soon it was apparent that she was the answer to her dilemma. In the five years since launching, addictive salads (as well as a whole host of small entrees and tasty desserts) has been steady business. In 2013 she opened a second location near Albuquerque’s Old Town. Rarely is a table vacant at either location, proving that Wade’s vision is sustainable, just like the produce she harvests everyday from Nambe. Three-quarters of Vinaigrette’s ingredients in peak season are from that single location, demonstrating her prowess as a farmer. She shares her knowledge in lectures and guest appearances. The Santa Fe Botanical Garden has hosted her class, “Successful Gardening in New Mexico Soil." Public engagements, as well as the occasional farm tour helped hungry customers make the leap from simply eating tasty local food to wanting to grow their own. 1828 Central Avenue SW, Albuquerque, 505-820-9205 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, 505-820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com
Soma Franks & Fiona Wong, Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen Soma Franks and Fiona Wong, owners of Sweet Water Harvest, are a perfect duo despite wildly different backgrounds. Soma worked in restaurant kitchens for thirteen years in Santa Fe, drawing primary inspiration from Katherine Kegel’s local and organic focus at Cafe Pasqual’s as well as her own experiences with different dietary philosophies. Wong moved to Santa Fe in 2006 from Singapore, after a career in fashion and television, with very little sense of where food comes from, but with a great sense of aesthetic. The combination of their worldviews has created a restaurant known for creative cuisine using local ingredients and catering to diverse dietary needs. For Franks, strict templates like veganism were two dimensional, and often too restrictive to do what a complete diet should do—make you feel like a vibrant human. She draws from a diverse ingredient palette for her menus including everything from sustainably raised meats to nut milks and gluten free grains. Franks’s commitment to real food has grown as she raises her child as far away from processed food as possible. For Wong, starting a vegetable garden in her Santa Fe yard with her infant son and watching the planting, watering, and harvesting roused her food curiosity. She realized that raising your own produce, while a labor of love, brings immense satisfaction and calm in a world where so many things called “food” come in shiny packaging that can sit on a shelf for years. When Wong met Franks, they realized their combined vision and love for food as more than sustenance could make a delightful restaurant. They serve delicacies designed for the dietarily restricted like buckwheat banana pancakes and Pad Thai made with optional almonds instead of peanuts. These two women believe that food should make us feel good at all times—while eating, after eating, the next day, and even the next month. The combination of creative flavors and careful ingredient choices mean Sweetwater’s food ranks high for its feel-good factor. Spreading love and curiosity about food is a side effect of Sweetwater’s other role as a CSA pick-up location for Beneficial Farms. Members fetch their boxes while diners gaze at the hubbub, many of them to ask, “What’s a CSA?” This kind of under-the-radar food system education is pure genius.
Above: Soma Franks and Fiona Wong Photo by Melanie West Left: Erin Wade Photo by Tamara Zibners
And finally, when you dine at Sweetwater, pay cash—it will translate into a two percent donation to the currently selected local non-profit, like the Carbon Economy Series or other sustainability organizations. Thank you, Sweetwater, for reminding us that the little details do make a difference. 1512 Pacheco Street, Pacheco Park, Santa Fe, 505-795-7383 www.sweetwatersf.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM
Cherie Austin, Farm & Table Cherie Austin, owner of Farm & Table in Albuquerque’s North Valley has an unspoken mantra: collaboration, collaboration, collaboration. She believes in the importance of creativity and recipe ideas from everyone on staff, from bussers to prep cooks. This makes sense—once you’ve been around excellent produce prepared with care you start to get ideas about new flavors and fun ways to experiment with them. This kind of contagious excitement is evident when talking with Austin about the farmers who sell to her restaurant (nearly sixty at last count). They supply produce throughout the year in addition to the bounty from the onsite farm, Sol Harvest, operated by Rick Murphy. In the middle of our conversation she breaks away to inspect a load of parsnips just in from a new East Mountain farmer. She believes that cultivating relationships with farmers is an important link in the local food chain, and may be what keeps the new farm in business. For Austin, Farm & Table is not a get-rich-quick operation. What comes in goes to her employees, towards produce from farmers, and to making improvements at Sol Harvest. Everyone who works at Farm & Table knows this—you come to work with and to love a constantly shifting ingredient list and a steadfast vision of good food. In the spirit of collaboration, Austin has teamed up with edible Santa Fe to celebrate Women & Creativity in March. Join us for RISE, a dinner showcasing the collaborative efforts of women chefs, sommeliers, food artisans, and farmers. For one night only, join chef Jaye Wilkinson, chef Kim Muller, wine curator Amy Haas, brewer Kaylynn McKnight, and pastry chef Tracy Johnson as they create a meal to remember from ingredients sourced from local women farmers and food artisans such as Valley Gurlz and Heidi's Raspberry Farm. This prix fixe menu will showcase the creativity and hard work of women working in food, as well as provide insight into how they work together to create some of our region’s most amazing culinary fare. This special dinner takes place on March 25 at 7pm—make your reservations now at Farm & Table. 8917 4th Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-503-7124 www.farmandtablenm.com
Left: Cherie Austin Photo by Stephanie Cameron
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
Jen Hart and Andrea Meyer, The Love Apple The French affectionately named tomatoes la pomme d’amour in the sixteenth century; it was love for that fresh and bright orb and all it represents about seasonality that proved a big influence on the Love Apple’s founder, Jen Hart. Located at the north end of Taos in an old adobe house, at first impression, the Love Apple is an authentic New Mexican experience. Hart and head chef Andrea Meyer are simply in love with New Mexican flavors and the farmers that make their ingredients list both dynamic and challenging. The Love Apple menu changes seasonally and does not showcase New Mexican dishes, rather it is a compendium of original dishes made with seasonal local ingredients. Meats are local and grass-fed, eggs are from nearby farmers, and even the grains are whole and ground into flour onsite. Meyer says that their pantry is shockingly small; it only holds items needed for a quick turnaround time of days rather than weeks or months. Even dried staples like beans are not the same after being on a shelf for a year, and you can taste this attention to detail in each dish. The restaurant’s reputation has grown. Farmers at the Taos market now grow items exclusively for the Love Apple, helping to keep some menu favorites available across the seasons. Meyer and Hart explain that their focus is on amazing food coming from their kitchen. Being really great at what they do has made many of their fans take up home cooking or branch out with a new ingredient in their repertoire. Exercising simplicity and generosity with their talents inspires locals and visitors alike to aspire to creativity in their own kitchens. 803 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-751-0050 www.theloveapple.net
Once upon a time, Andrea Feucht woke up to the realization that she was obsessed with food. Her work appears locally and nationally, and her first book was published in October by Globe Pequot Press: "The Food Lovers' Guide to Santa Fe, Albuquerque and Taos." Find Andrea and her book at fb.me/foodloversnm.
Above: Lisa Lastra, Alison Foley, Andrea Meyer, Jennifer Hart (Not pictured Jenni Ford) Photo by Stephanie Cameron
The Producers TAOS ROASTERS ∙ VALLEY GURLZ ∙ HEIDI'S RASPBERRY FARM ∙ SAVORY SPICE SHOP Photos by Stephanie Cameron
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
Toast of the Town By Valerie Ashe Nancy Hoyer speaks of Taos as a tapestry of community: a collective of people, environment, and small local businesses, all dependent on one another. She has lived in Taos most of her life, raised a family here, and now, as the manager and roastmaster at Taos Roasters, Inc., runs the daily operations of this local business. Taos Roasters wholesales organic roasted coffee beans to local businesses such as The Coffee Spot and Cid’s Food Market in Taos, Taos Cow Ice Cream shop and restaurant in Arroyo Seco, La Montañita Co-op in Santa Fe, and to consumers through the company’s website. Hoyer started with Taos Roasters by baking for their coffee shops for about seven years before taking over the wholesale roasting operation. She cultivated an appreciation for organic ingredients during her days as a baker. “Organic is such a better quality product,” says Hoyer. “You can taste the difference immediately—just like with eggs and dairy in baking, you can immediately see the difference in the flavors, the texture, the colors. It’s the same with the coffee beans.” Hoyer sources only shade-grown organic coffee beans, which benefit from cultivation using natural ecology rather than pesticides, fungicides, and herbicides used to grow conventional coffee beans. While Taos Roasters carefully sources beans from certified organic growers around the world, they are also a certified organic handler, a certification granted to processors and distributors that move commodities from farmers to consumers. Hoyer’s first priority is to provide a healthy, quality product to her customers, which means following the rigorous ordering, roasting, cleaning, and shipping standards of organic handling. Hoyer also purchases fair trade coffee beans whenever possible. While Taos Roasters is interwoven into the local economy of Taos, Hoyer points out, “We’re part of world economics as well. As soon as you leave this country, farmers aren’t as protected and aren’t getting fair prices for their products. I find gratitude when I’m roasting a product, knowing exactly where it came from, even though it didn’t grow here. Hopefully, I’m also supporting people in farming around the world.” But Hoyer’s heart is with the local customers she serves every day. “When I walk into a coffee shop, a store room, or wherever my customers are, they’re like part of my family,” she says. “My clients know they can count on me, and I know I can count on them.” Taos Roasters, Inc., 575-737-5946, www.taosroasters.com
Pickle Purveyors By Valerie Ashe Angie Rodriguez and Maria Gamboa are cousins from opposite sides of the Rio Grande valley with a common mission: to provide natural food products that inspire healthy eating and living. They co-own Valley Gurlz Goodz in Albuquerque and primarily produce spicy pickled green beans. These beans serve well as a satisfying nosh on their own, as a crunchy ingredient in pasta salad, or as a peppery garnish for a tall Bloody Mary cocktail. Rodriguez and Gamboa source local and organic produce seasonally from farms such as ARCA Organics, Armijo Farms, and Valle Encantado Farms in the Albuquerque area. The cousins work well together, balancing creativity and business acumen. “She keeps me in the kitchen,” jokes Gamboa about Rodriguez. Gamboa owns product development, while Rodriguez focuses on the business. Rodriguez explains that it's a partnership—they support each other and naturally gravitate to their strengths. In business for a little more than a year, the cousins have an impressive list of accomplishments. Their green beans took second place in the hot and spicy pickled condiments category of the 2014 Scovie Awards, an international competition for hot and spicy foods. La Montañita Co-op stores now carry their products, and they are working to close on an agreement with Whole Foods in Albuquerque in 2014. They have diversified by introducing pickled asparagus, and have developed recipes toward introduction of pickled beets, okra, and watermelon rinds later this year. Valley Gurlz Goodz made their start selling at local farmers markets around Albuquerque, which they plan to continue to do. They mentor local farmers on how to diversify their businesses with valueadded products such as pickled goods, and they plan to grow their own produce someday to better control their supply. They have also enjoyed the support of another local businesswoman, Emma Dean Najar, owner of Tio Frank’s Chile Sauce in Albuquerque. “We were very lucky when we were placed with Emma Dean and her husband at the Downtown Growers Market [in Albuquerque],” says Rodriguez. “They have been through everything we've been through. Tio Frank’s sells their product worldwide and they're still selling at the farmer’s market. Emma Dean has been more than willing to guide us as much as possible and has given us great advice.” Rodriguez and Gamboa, too, hope to eventually sell their products at stores outside of New Mexico. “We would like to see more local businesses help our state be self-sufficient. We could be bringing in more money from other states, creating more jobs and more opportunities for local businesses and employees. We want to be part of that movement.” Valley Gurlz Goodz, www.valleygurlzgoodz.com
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
OF PLANTS THE SOUTHWEST
Albuquerque 505-268-0206 talinmarket.com Santa Fe 505-780-5073
Get all this and more @ Talin Market World Food
Come TO Ck. COME TO EAT. COME To SHOP. The school features hands-on and demonstration classes and a market filled with your favorite New Mexican products and foods. We’ve added exciting new cooking classes, taught by some of Santa Fe’s best chefs, and our signature restaurant walking tours are your entrée to the delicious flavors of Santa Fe. Our beautiful new space and outdoor patio are perfect for your special events and private gatherings. For more information and class schedules, visit us online at santafeschoolofcooking.com. 125 North Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe (at the corner of Guadalupe and Johnson) 800.982.4688 505.983.4511 santafeschoolofcooking.com
14103-SFSC_Edible Ad FIN.indd 1
2:55 33 PM
Building a Community One Jar at a Time By Heidi Eleftheriou I consider raspberries to be the champagne of berries. I love cooking and feeding people. It’s something that I do a lot, being married to a Greek. My raspberry jam came about because I really wanted to sell an edible product, and something that was delicious. But my jam had to be the way I liked it, not too sweet and not too cooked. I had been selling my own field grown cut flowers at the Corrales Growers’ Market when it had just opened in the 1990s. Only six or seven vendors sold in those days, making it a lot of fun. Evelyn Losack, the matriarch of farmers in Corrales, started it. I began making jam in my own kitchen, of course. Food products at markets didn’t have to meet any regulations in those days. Then, Roxanne Wagner took me to can with her at the Sandoval County Extension project in the back of the Jemez High School— a real canning kitchen with all steam run machinery. You had to have a reservation to can. You could expect a line of women from Jemez Pueblo in front of you making salsa, chicos or maybe canning wild game or fish. You always helped the people in line before you finish their canning, so you could start yours. All of us, as women together in a kitchen, talked about the things that mattered. We solved the problems of the world. I needed a commercial kitchen, so I moved my operation to Northern New Mexico Community College in Española. After driving all the way to Española at the crack of dawn, the truck fully loaded with everything we needed, cooking till dark then driving back to Corrales, I was exhausted. Then, along came the South Valley kitchen! Since 2006, I have made my jam at the there year round at the Mixing Bowl commercial kitchen. Over the years, many great products have come out of that kitchen, helping so many local food entrepreneurs get started. The only way I sold jam for years was at farmers markets—it all happened at the Santa Fe, Corrales, Bernalillo, Los Ranchos, Los Alamos, and Downtown Albuquerque. At market, people talk and visit and I think it’s a way for a community to be a community. We hear about each other’s lives, kids, problems, and family. It makes us feel connected when we are a part of the farmers markets. My favorite benefit of the business is interacting with people at these venues. I have heard every raspberry story from one side of the country to the other. I know that raspberries grow like weeds by the side of the road in some places (not here), and I know that half of my customers first jobs were picking raspberries. Of course, everyone’s grandma made the best jam ever. That’s why the highest praise for my jam is, “This is better than my grandma’s!” Heidi's Raspberry Farm, www.heidisraspberryjam.com
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
The Spice of Life By Valerie Ashe A graduate of the Johnson & Wales culinary program in Rhode Island, Kate Wheeler’s early career took her to McMurdo Station, Antarctica, a US-based research center operated by the National Science Foundation, where her task was to prepare four meals a day for fourteen hundred researchers and staff workers using only frozen, canned, and dried food sources. “The requirements were to provide four thousand calories per day per person, because the conditions there are so severe,” Wheeler says. “The challenge was to make all that processed food taste good—and that’s where I really got into spices.” Fast-forward several years to a small storefront on Galisteo Street, Santa Fe, where Wheeler offers more than four hundred spice products, including 165 blends. Wheeler began her venture as a spice grinder with the Savory Spice Shop franchise in Denver in 2005. Over the years she grew with the business, and eventually fulfilled her vision to open her own store in Santa Fe after she and her husband Drew vacationed in The City Different several times. “We saw a hole in the market here, being such a ‘foodie’ town,” Wheeler says of Santa Fe. “If you live here, where do you get Mexican oregano or authentic Indian curry?” To fill this gap, Wheeler has become the local ambassador of faraway herbs, spices, and unique blends to the Santa Fe area and beyond, extending free shipping to all New Mexico customers. She is committed to unaltered flavor and medicinal quality in all of her wares; no product she carries contains additives or preservatives, and most are non-irradiated. While Wheeler uses some local ingredients such as New Mexico chiles and a few locally grown herbs in her blends, most of her products by nature are far from local. She is conscientious, however, about purchasing fair trade and organic ingredients whenever possible. “Most spices are grown organically, but they aren’t certified because certification is too expensive to the local farmers, who are usually in third world countries,” says Wheeler. Wheeler’s vision is to potentially open additional stores and provide local jobs. She leverages partnerships, community services, and events to get the word out about her store and to contribute to a growing local economy. Savory Spice Shop currently offers cooking classes, wine-pairing classes led by Santa Fe Spirits staff, and is active in the Santa Fe Chamber of Commerce. “Most of all, I want our store to be a good, safe place for people to be—for our customers, our employees, and our community,” Wheeler says, just after sending off a local customer into the cold December afternoon with a warm cup of mulled cider and a hug. Savory Spice Shop Santa Fe, www.savoryspiceshop.com 225 Galisteo, Santa Fe, 505-819-5659
Valerie Ashe is a freelance writer and co-owner of Thunderhead Farms in Bosque Farms, New Mexico.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
The Movers and Shakers
LA MONTAÑITA CO-OP, TAOS COUNTY ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT CORPORATION, FARM TO TABLE, AND COOKING WITH KIDS
La Montañita Co-op By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher Most folks think that La Montañita Co-op is a place to buy organic food that is slightly funkier than Whole Foods, and sometimes feels a little more exclusive because people become members. Rather than an exclusive privilege (in fact anyone can shop at the coop), membership actually means you become part owner of a community-based enterprise. Because most businesses limit their activities to commerce, it’s hard to imagine that it only costs fifteen dollars to become an owner of a business that has developed a loan fund for farmers, a food hub to help them get their goods to market, and a whole variety of incentives for members to participate in their community. The co-op is about so much more than good food.
Running a business with fifteen thousand owners is no small feat, and La Montañita has grown to be one of the most successful natural foods consumer co-ops in the country largely as a result of the unwavering efforts and leadership of five women: Edite Cates, marketing director; Michelle Franklin, Co-op Distribution Center director; Sharret Rose, human resources director; Robin Seydel, membership and community outreach director; and Martha Whitman, board president. Collectively these women represent over a century of hard work and experience in forging an alternative business model with a triple bottom line long before anyone used the word sustainability. Through their work at the Co-op, they have made real systemic changes in our food systems, cultural changes in the way we approach food in our communities in New Mexico, and a true local economy feasible.
In the 1970s, organic and natural food was hard to come by in conventional grocery stores, or anywhere for that matter. To meet this need, a committed co-op membership formed La Montañita to harness enough demand to merit a truck driving from California laden with lentils, brown rice, and tofu. Rarely did anything in the way of fresh produce (except maybe potatoes and a few limp carrots) make it to New Mexico on that truck. So in the 1980s, the La Montañita sought out local growers to be able to offer fresh vegetables alongside bulk beans and powdered soap. In the 1990s Wild Oats and Whole Foods stores opened everywhere in response to the demand for natural foods demonstrated primarily by co-ops. To compete, co-ops needed a makeover. Sentimentality about milk-crate shelving and hand printed labels would not contend with wide aisles and catchy graphics. Co-ops banded together to form the National Cooperative Grocers Association (NCGA), a co-op of co-ops designed to provide marketing and other business services for a competitive edge. This organization’s first employee in 1999, Robynn Schrader, just traded her current position as CEO of NCGA (which now represents over $1.5 billion in annual sales) for presidency of Consumer Cooperatives Worldwide. A co-op is about collaborative efforts, doing more with less, and thinking outside the box. It has a very specific and meticulous method for operating a community-owned business, of any kind, not just a grocery store. When asked how they imagine the future of the La Montañita, the women of the co-op answer unanimously—more co-ops to meet the needs of our community, through collective community effort and ownership. www.lamontanita.coop
Photo by Mary Lambert WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM
Cooking with Kids By Lynn Walters I became a mother in the midst of a restaurant career, and food and gardening were an integral part of our family life. As my children approached school age, I noticed that many of their friends ate Lunchables or other pre-packaged foods and had little experience with real food. They were fascinated but fearful of the variety of foods that my children ate. I began to think more and more that all children deserve to know where food comes from and the joys of cooking and eating well. I was inspired to start Cooking with Kids after the Student Nutrition Advisory Council (SNAC), a group of nutrition professionals, asked me to host several breakfasts about school meals at my restaurant. Their focus was to encourage Santa Fe Public Schools to provide healthy food that children will eat. I found myself fascinated by the conversation. During October 1994, several other chefs and I ventured into school kitchens to help prepare meals. We used donations of produce, beans, and garden vegetables and herbs from our restaurants and home gardens. For three mornings we helped cafeteria staff prepare black beans, cornbread, cucumber salad, fresh green beans, and tempeh fajitas. I foolishly believed that if we cooked fresh, tasty, and beautiful food that the children would eat it and love it. We were wrong!
Photo by Stephanie Cameron
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
Shortly after this, I came into contact with Dr. Antonia Demas, who had conducted a hands-on food acceptance study in upstate New York. With support from the local Chefs Collaborative, Antonia came to Santa Fe in March 1995 and helped us get started. During her visit, Antonia taught four cooking classes in two elementary schools. Students made couscous salad from twenty ingredients. They arranged the salads, dressed them, and named them. The children ate, discussed the food, and voted for their favorite. I heard one comment, â€œThis is good because we made it.â€? From these experiences, I learned that cooking with children is much more fun when everyone has something to do. Previously, I had stood at the kitchen counter with my two-year-old on one side and my fiveyear-old on the other, making pancakes and expecting each child to wait patiently while the other measured. But I learned that cooking with my children worked really well when, for example, my young daughter tore up tarragon leaves at one end of the table, and my son focused on slicing green beans from the garden a little distance away. That was great fun, and we all enjoyed eating the delicious fruits of our labor. www.cookingwithkids.net
Lynn Walters is the founder of Cooking with Kids, a non-profit organization with an amazing and diverse staff, who enthusiastically and skillfully teach 5,066 Santa Fe children about the joys of delicious, healthy food.
Farm to Table New Mexico By Nissa Patterson Pam Roy, executive director of Farm to Table, likes to work in the field. Her field isn’t rows of chiles or mounds of melons. It’s the legislative committee room in Santa Fe, the community hall in Clovis, the Department of Health office in Columbus, even carpooling to the next meeting. The computer, the phone, and most of all the art of conversation are the tools of her trade. Fortunately Roy can talk through a muddy topic, like food subsidies or state appropriations, clear and clean as if her boots stayed on the porch. “She’s the Hilary Clinton of New Mexico food policy,” says Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, editor of edible Santa Fe. “Nearly every recent piece of policy supporting the local food movement has been touched by Roy and her staff.” Roy co-founded Farm to Table twelve years ago to promote locally based agriculture through education, community outreach, and networking. The organization wants to ensure access to regionally grown, healthy, and culturally relevant food for all New Mexicans. Like Roy, her staff is known for their political agility and commitment to an issue.
Schools can spend $1.05 to $1.30 per child, per meal, a slim budget to afford local produce. Farm to Table staff and collaborators encourage New Mexico legislators to allocate state funds to school districts to purchase New Mexico grown produce for school lunches. This means New Mexico chiles, beans, zucchini, watermelons, apples, and lettuce on the plate—an investment in our kids' health and in New Mexico farms. Farm to Table has many other programs: bringing farm food to restaurants; encouraging the creation of pollinator friendly habitats; supporting farms through training and an annual Organic Farming Conference; and working with ten counties and four tribes to look at ways to create greater access to healthy food. They also host New Mexico Food and Agriculture Policy Council meetings. At the council meetings representatives from organizations and individuals gather to discuss food and agriculture issues and to decide what needs to be worked on next. Consider attending one of these meetings. Don’t worry that you’ll feel like a blueberry in a melon patch. Roy will be there to explain what’s happening. www.farmtotablenm.org
Take the evolution of their work on school food. In 2007 New Mexico changed the rules that governed what sorts of foods and beverages could be sold to students in direct competition with school meal programs. The goal was to reduce the endless parade of sugary, high fat snack options available in schools. Farm to Table invited every organization with a stake in the issue to the table—from the New Mexico Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics to the New Mexico Pediatrics Society—to meet and bring their perspective on the issue. Opinions, like food, are near and dear to the heart. So gathering folks together to discuss this major policy issue was like holding a farm potluck. Everyone brought something different, from creamy parsnip soup to gooey marshmallow salad. The trick was to try to take something from each dish to make a meal worth eating. The effort took hours of meetings and being open minded to each perspective. Roy notes that women represented most of the organizations. Thinking about children’s health was forefront in their minds. The group, having come to consensus, recommended a new rule, and succeeded in convincing the legislature to pass it. New Mexico now has rules on what snacks can, and cannot, be sold in schools. Farm to Table staff didn’t stop there. Since then they have turned their efforts to improving the school lunch. New Mexico exports ninety-seven percent of its agricultural products but Farm to Table thinks it makes sense to put some of that food on the school lunch plate as a way to keep kids healthy and to keep money in New Mexico.
Photo by Walt Cameron
Taos County Economic Development Corporation By Nissa Patterson If I had to choose two people to whiz down a deserted road in an unreliable car with, they would be Terrie Bad Hand and Pati Martinson. They make great companions. Both laugh easily and tell good stories, but primarily I would choose them because when the car spits, then sputters to a stop, they would see the opportunity. They would rustle up some lounge chairs from the trunk, Martinson would collect firewood, and in ten minutes we would sit beneath the stars, a warm fire at our feet, and tell each other stories. As directors and founders of the Taos County Economic Development Corporation (TCEDC), Martinson and Bad Hand have dealt with unexpected events since 1987. Their New Mexico story started when they came from Denver to Taos, at the invitation of the Taos Pueblo, with years of community development work already under their belts. At the time Taos and the surrounding communities were in an economic nosedive. Shops closed, families stressed, and the landbased economy struggled to provide the resources for families to keep the lights on. Martinson laughs as she remembers those early days, “There were nineteen people on the Taos Business Council, and eighteen of them were men. They had twelve thousand dollars for an economic development director position. We made an offer that could not be refused. We offered to share the position. They got two for one.” While in that position they observed how the dual challenges of new regulations and a competitive economy left many rural farming families out. In times past, a woman could gather with family, cook up batches of her famous cherry jam, pop up a table, and sell it. It was about money but it was also about pride, self-empowerment, and setting an example for her children, Martinson explains. The regulatory changes meant jam needed to be made in a commercial kitchen. Situations like these led Bad Hand and Martinson to found TCEDC with a mission to support the food, land, water, and cultures of the people of Northern New Mexico. These days TCEDC has not only a commercial kitchen but also classes to develop food-based businesses, as well as a wide variety of services and opportunities to area residents looking to capitalize on 40
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
culinary and agricultural tradition and innovation. In fact, more than one hundred products have been developed in the kitchen—each one helping a local family become more economically solid. Martinson and Bad Hand get fiery when it comes to social justice and maintaining relationships based on a family model of respect. These twin engines drive every programming decision they make. TCEDC staff started the Nx Level—a series of classes designed to help farmers reinvent their agricultural enterprises and earn more income—because it is increasingly hard to make it on a farming income. When the incidence of diabetes increased in their communities, TCEDC started cooking classes; as food became more expensive, the gardens and greenhouse were built; and when area families could no longer find a USDA approved slaughter house within a reasonable distance, TCEDC started their Mobile Matanza, a slaughterhouse in a tractor trailer that travels to the small ranches that dot Northern New Mexico. The community commercial kitchen was one of the first in the nation and the Matanza was the second mobile slaughter unit in the country. Martinson and Bad Hand did not plan to be on the cutting edge, but if standing on the edge is where they needed to be then they happily pointed their toes over the precipice. Mostly, they balance on the economic edge. Like many Northern New Mexican families, TCEDC feels the pinch of a tight budget in hard times. TCEDC is a big operation; its buildings, programs, and staff serve hundreds of people. It is as hard now as it has been in all their years in Taos, Bad Hand shares as she talks about the challenges of finding funding to keep it all going. An uncharacteristic worry sharpens the edge of her already gravely voice. “Well,” Martinson says, exhaling the worry for both of them, “I’m not coming to work if you don’t.” With a sisterly warmth Bad Hand replies, “And I’m not if you won’t.” Tomorrow, come dawn, I know they’ll fix the car and get back on the road. Work waits in Taos. 1021 Salazar, Taos, 575-758-8731, www.tcedc.org
Nissa Patterson is an urban gardener, mother, and public health professional. She blogs about her front yard garden for edible Santa Fe at www.ediblesantafe.com/author/nissa
TY G YM
C O |O P S M A K E U S S T R O N G E R TO G E T H E R
Liberate Yourself no initiation fees | new members receive free personal training orientation 505.884.8012 | 2401 Jefferson NE, Albuquerque, NM 87110
A B Q | S A N TA F E | G A L L U P
www.lamontanita.coop â€˘ fresh, fair local and organic food
Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto
itâ€™s closer than you think.. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.
OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com
HISTORIC NOB HILL 505.254.ZINC(9462) www.zincabq.com
ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS 505.294.WINE(9463) www.savoyabq.com
Cecilia's Organics in Polvadera, NM 42
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com
. .truly local.
The Garden of Ms. O’Keeffe By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher If a short list of iconic creative women in New Mexico were made, Georgia O’Keeffe would be at the top. She is renowned for both her talent and productivity as a painter, and for her striking profile and her hands captured in the photographs by her husband Alfred Stieglitz. What many do not realize is that O’Keeffe set an example of an abundant yet frugal life rooted in food grown in her own garden. To even the most novice eye, O’Keeffe’s paintings tell the viewer something of her love for food, plants, and the land. Whether flowers, pineapples, avocados, or the view from her bedroom window, it is clear she loved the land and what it produced. After twenty years of summer visits, O’Keeffe moved permanently to New Mexico in 1949 to spend summers at Ghost Ranch and winters in Abiquiu.
of their own food for centuries. This summer her home will become a vehicle to reciprocate this knowledge. At the O’Keeffe residence, a group of area high school students will cultivate the garden and learn about producing food for themselves and their families. February through September, 2014 the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum will offer an exhibit "Abiquiu Views" with a focus on her garden between April 4 and September 14. Contact the museum for a complete list of events at the Santa Fe gallery and tours at her Abiquiu residence. 217 Johnson Street, Santa Fe, 505-946-1000, www.okeeffemuseum.org
Her Abiquiu home is a traditional center-courtyard adobe hacienda with a stable and a huge garden. As you enter her property, you park at cliff’s edge looking northeast into the Chama River Valley. A path along the south wall of the house leads past a picture window showcasing her river rock collection, then opens onto nearly an acre of walled garden space partially planted in perennial fruit trees, and partially overgrown with grass. A stone lined channel cuts the space in two; it still carries acequia water to the garden in the summer months. This garden fed O’Keeffe year-round. The summer offered an abundance of cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, and especially greens. Though she lived fifteen miles away at Ghost Ranch for most hot months of the year, fresh fruits and vegetables from her Abiquiu house were brought regularly to the summer residence, because Santa Fe proved too far a trek for the lettuce needed for her favorite salads. When she rebuilt the ruined structure purchased from the Catholic diocese in 1946 that would become her winter residence, she organized the space drawing on rural convention and wisdom, particularly when it came to food production. The entry to the house leads through a laundry room that also accommodates a large refrigerator and a freezer. A large pantry room in the house stored root crops, apples, dried stone fruit, jars of pickles, dried herbs, and more. And the kitchen, a large square room with shelves floor to ceiling on every wall, held nearly every subsistence food production tool imaginable: pickling crocks, canning jars, food mills, and many others. O’Keeffe loved good food, but also loved living in rural New Mexico, which meant she had to learn from locals who had produced much
Maria Chabot, Georgia O'Keeffe in the Garden, c. 1944. Photographic print, 5 x 3 1/2 in. Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. Gift of Maria Chabot. Copyright Georgia O'Keeffe Museum.
Taste The New Southwest
Inspired by Northern New Mexico and infused with local and organically sourced ingredients, new Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place and comfort to create a new twist on contemporary American cuisine.
877.262.4666 • fourseasons.com/santafe • 198 state road 592, santa fe 44
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
Table Hopping By Emily Beenen Women and cooking are inextricably linked. Perhaps this is a biological notion, rooted in our mothers as the original food source, or perhaps something more socio-political, as written by novelist John Green in Looking for Alaska: “Alaska decided to go help Dolores with dinner. She said that it was sexist to leave the cooking to the women, but better to have good sexist food than crappy boy-prepared food.” Either way, table hopping for this edition, which focuses on women chefs and owners as pioneers advocating for local food, felt like a warm welcome into the kitchens of five homes, each unique in the ways it nurtured and fed my family and me.
onions, fresh greens, an assortment of fine cheeses and Italian salame and prosciutto served with bread baked by La Quiche Parisienne. They source produce locally from ARCA Organics, a Corrales farm that employs individuals with developmental disabilities. The most important goal, and what helps her thrive, Peira shares, is knowing that her customers leave full and happy. 3222 Silver Street SE, Albuquerque, 505-266-0607, www.freshcitrus.us
Hartford Square Sarah Hartford, owner and chef of the recently opened Hartford Square, fondly remembers shopping and cooking from the farm stands of Boston. “I love the seasonality of food. Local is just the way I love to cook,” she says. So when this art-director-by-trade opened her first restaurant near the Albuquerque crossroads of Central and Broadway, she naturally transferred these experiences to the Hartford Square kitchen. The local food sources list from A (Agri-Cultura Network) to Z (Zingtopia Fruit Essences) with almost every letter covered betwixt (Chispas Farms, Delores Salsa, and Michael Thomas Coffee to name a few others). Hartford took twenty years between ventures to raise four kids and admits much of her vision is derived from what she calls feminine role-playing. She describes her role at the restaurant, “It’s a lot about the ‘mom’ thing—cooking, serving, becoming emotionally tied to the
Limonata Eighteen-year-old Marion Peira is the newly minted manager of Limonata, the second and more casual Italian street food café owned by Daniela and Maxime Bouneou (Torino’s @ Home is their first). Our conversation, she confesses, is her first interview. Eighteen may seem young, but to Peira the service industry is second nature having grown up in restaurants. “Since I was little,” she explains,” my mom has always told me ‘go wait on those people', or ‘go talk to those people.’ I was very shy to start with and this business has made me who I am today; most of the time I can make someone smile if they come in with a frown!” Since June of 2012, Limonata has served breakfast and lunch, which include coconut milk waffles with whipped cream and strawberry smiley faces, burritos, torta (Italian quiche) and a comforting array of pastries such as chocolate croissants or chocolate, lemon and pear tarte tatin. The star of the lunch menu is the antipasto, with grilled eggplant, roasted red pepper and zucchini, pickled cipollini Above left: Marion Peira and Daniela Bouneou Above right: Sarah Hartford Photos by Tamara Zibners
300 Broadway Boulevard. NE, Albuquerque, 505-265-4933
a restaurateur has been a growing experience. “I have to delegate,” she admits, “I can’t do it all myself. So I find myself developing a community with employees as well as my customers—another strength of being a woman in this business is that nurturing aspect.”
1494 Cerrillos Road, Santa Fe, 505-983-1411, www.mudunoodles.com
“Long Noodles, Low Impact, Long Life” is the succinct philosophy noted by chef and owner Mu Jing Lau that has helped her thrive over the fifteen year life of Mu Du Noodles. “In terms of restaurants, it’s always been a man’s world,” Mu candidly states, “but women have a different perspective on how to do restaurants. There is staying power because I have more home cooking than restaurant cooking.
Sixteen hour days, seven days a week? This is the life of a corporate chef, and was the life of Catherine O’Brien and Glenda Griswold. “We had vacation time,” O'Brien remembers, “but never any time to use it.” So, in what she refers to as a Thelma-and-Louise move, she and Griswold packed up and drove to New Mexico on a whim. They wanted to be fruitful and happy and to enjoy cooking again. Now both are eighteen years deep into their wildly successful Peas in a Pod catering company. In July of 2013 they opened Terra Cotta, where they passionately design menus that change monthly and are sourced locally. “We use New Mexico meats only,” O'Brien says, “from Heritage Farms up north. We use every ingredient possible that’s available locally. If there’s apricots, we make an apricot chutney.” Both O’Brien and Griswold have moved up in the ranks of the
food.” Although she admits it’s been difficult at times to earn respect, she has received enormous support from The Standard Diner and The Grove Café and Market, like-minded restaurants in her neighborhood.
I don’t particularly like to wow people about how it looks; I put more effort in how it tastes. That’s my brand, I think that’s why I’m successful.” The depth of her commitment goes beyond purchasing local organic meat and produce as often as possible; Mu Du Noodles also uses renewable energy sources and avidly recycles and composts their waste. Mu is a woman used to getting things done on her own, but becoming
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
restaurant world, and they make a point to be good bosses and treat their employees well. “We make sure they understand why we do what we do, and give them opportunities to grow. Women tend to do that more.” Owning their own businesses has provided heartfelt connections to the Santa Fe community. For example, on a recent menu featuring comfort foods, O'Brien decided to name the dishes after the locals who frequent the restaurant. “There was one woman who just finished chemo,” she explains, “and was so excited to eat meatloaf again. I found out her mother used to make it with oatmeal and tomato paste, just like my mother used to, so we named the meatloaf dish in her honor.” 304 Johnson Street, Santa Fe, 505-989-1166, www.terracottawinebistro.com
Above left: Mu Jing Lau Above right: Catherine O'Brien and Glenda Griswold Photos by Melanie West
Taos Diner Annie Powell began waiting tables at Taos Diner when she was nineteen, and by twenty-four, owned the place. Taos Diner 2 was originally a soup and salad spot, but converted to another diner with greater success in 2010. Typically diners are renowned for cheaper, greasy spoon food; Powell wanted to feed and educate Taos families in a healthier way. “I believe in supporting a smaller, community structure,” Powell said, “we’re motivated to help locals more and keep the money and food source in our community.” She also be-
While we talked, a young woman stopped by to drop off some lettuce. “That’s one of our waitresses,” Harper says, “She’s on her way home from Taos. We all just have to rely on one another here.” It’s a very different scene from the Bay Area, where Harper was a chef at Greens, which had its own Green Gulch Farms that grew produce specifically for the restaurant year round. “Here in New Mexico,” Holste shares, “you make compromises, and you eat as much local produce as possible. That’s our bent; it’s a produce driven restaurant.” Locals and the tourists often don’t identify with the same kinds of foods, but Harper and Holste have found a way over the years to welcome the locals and to be up on current food trends tourists expect. “Our menu is successful,” Harper says with satisfaction, “but that’s what keeps us going is the constant research. Every Monday I read the Chez Panisse menu.” Additionally, Harper and Holste make a point to hire young people,
lieves if mom-and-pop businesses doesn’t support each other, then business feels too corporate. Powell has made a point to genuinely listen to customer feedback and change with trends. She feels this has contributed to the longevity and success of both restaurants. “I’m really dedicated to my family and I really believe in running the restaurant as family. I put in a lot of hours. I do all the accounting, scheduling, managing, day-to-day running, and prep, cook, serve, and host when needed.” That type of leadership, dedication, and experience has kept Taos Diner strong. “The bottom line really is about heart. And when you have that, it’s just better food, better health, more loving, and better energy.” 216 Paseo de Pueblo Sur, Taos, 575-751-1989 908 Paseo de Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-2374, www.taosdiner.com
Sugar Nymph’s Bistro While driving the winding mountain road from Taos to Penasco to eat at Sugar Nymph’s Bistro, my mother says out loud what we were all wondering, “Really? There’s a restaurant way out here?” This sentiment reflects the complexity and seasonal nature of running a restaurant in Northern New Mexico. Co-owners Ki Holste and Kai Harper, pastry chef and chef, respectively, have worked with farmers and families ever since opening thirteen years ago in a multitude of creative ways to reap and utilize all they can from the valley where they live.
Above left: Annie Powell Above right: Kai Harper & Ki Holste Photos by Stephanie Cameron
to support them in obtaining work experience and to encourage them in furthering their education, going to college, and taking advantage of the scholarships available in New Mexico. “There’s a lot of discussion about that ‘first job' and we do what every small business does; it’s the first time you have to be on time, the first time you have to be in a good mood (whether you are or not) and that’s a learned trait.” 15046 State Road 75 (aka the High Road), Penasco, 575-587-0311 www.sugarnymphs.com
Emily Beenen is a humanities teacher and instructional coach at the Native American Community Academy, as well as mother to Nina and Sam.
Women on the Rise as the Family Buck Winners By Rachel Shockley
Above: Dolly Aragon earned a guided elk hunt in southeast New Mexico with her perfect score on the Department of Game and Fish hunter education course exam. Photo courtesy of New Mexico Department of Game and Fish.
More than ever, American women today eat local by hunting and harvesting their own meat from wild big-game animals such as deer and elk that free range in nearby forests and meadows. “It’s nice to know that you can harvest your own meat and to know that you are the one responsible for taking that animal, and taking it humanely,” said Jennifer Morgan, hunter education coordinator for the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish. “And the meat is as organic as you can get.” According to US Census Bureau, the number of women hunters grew by twenty-five percent between 2006 and 2011. Women now total one and a half million and comprise eleven percent of all hunters in the United States. The New Mexico Department of Game and Fish annually hosts the New Mexico Outdoor Expo to offer free instruction in skills such as archery, and shotgun and rifle shooting. “Women are interested in learning these skills. Last year, more than four thousand people came to participate and thirtyfive percent were women,” Morgan said.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
Hunting traditionally is a male-dominated sport, with an emphasis on recreation. However, new studies indicate that women hunt for different reasons. During a nationwide survey of hunters regarding participation in and motivations for hunting, the Virginiabased research firm Responsive Management asked hunters eighteen and older about their single most important reason for hunting. The study found that women are twice as likely as men to hunt for meat, and that fifty-five percent of women hunters said it is their most important reason for hunting, compared with just twenty-seven percent of men. In addition, women are nearly two-and-a-half times more likely than their male counterparts to use hunting as a way to spend time with friends and family.
pitch a tent, to identify animals, to navigate using landmarks, and to handle guns safely. “I had to learn it all, literally,” Gonzales said.
Morgan did not grow up in a family of hunters. She became interested in hunting during college, and credits her boyfriend, now husband, with encouraging her to sign up for an archery course. Now she prefers archery hunting for elk and deer, but has taken animals using a rifle. “Regardless of what kind of meat you eat, you are taking a life, but you have more respect and a greater connection to the animal when you harvest it yourself and you put in the necessary miles and hiking to be in the animal’s environment,” Morgan said.
In New Mexico, women made up twenty-two percent of all residents who hunted or fished in 2011, according to US Census Bureau. Rick Andes, director of the New Mexico Youth Hunter Education Challenge, said he has witnessed a rise in the number of girls who participate in the challenge. During four days of competition, coed teams demonstrate their skills in rifle, shotgun, muzzleloader, archery, wildlife identification, orienteering, and survival and huntersafety exercises. Last year, Savannah Graves of Las Cruces won first place overall as an individual and helped the Bullseye senior team rank fifteenth overall in the at the International Youth Hunter Challenge.
When women are in the field they mostly hunt big game. According to US Census Bureau, in 2011 only six percent of smallgame hunters were women. Of the 11.6 million big-game hunters in the United States, a full twelve percent were women, a thirty percent increase since 2006. The preference for larger animals could be tied to the number of cuts available per a carcass. A mature deer when butchered can yield forty-five to sixty pounds of venison, and more than two hundred pounds of meat can be harvested from a bull elk. New Mexican Christine Gonzales began hunting in 2002, and since has hunted almost a dozen species. Gonzales did not come from a hunting family and had never camped, but her interest in the outdoors motivated her to learn how to hunt and fish. With the help of mentors, Gonzales overcame each new challenge, learning how to
“If I shoot it, I have to try it,” she said of eating the animals she takes. Gonzales has hunted and eaten delicacies such as squirrel, sandhill crane, and oryx. “For family functions I try to make a dish using game meat because my family enjoys it, but they don’t hunt.” Gonzales said that sometimes she returns home empty handed. It frequently takes her three hunts to be successful, and often, being outside the city is enough of a reward. For her, the best part of the hunt is being in an unpredictable environment and experiencing the unexpected.
“The young women are very competitive, and they delight in beating the boys,” Andes said. Women hoping to hunt a New Mexico big-game species in 2014 may enter the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish drawing for licenses until close of business on March 19. They draw licenses are for deer, elk, antelope, bighorn sheep, Barbary sheep, oryx, ibex, and javelina. The New Mexico Department of Game and Fish offers hunter safety courses, and wealth of information about hunting and fishing. www.wildlife.state.nm.us
Rachel Shockley is spokesperson for the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish and is an avid outdoor enthusiast. She lives in Santa Fe. WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM
eat local guide PREMIUM
EAT LOCAL GUIDE LO
S O U RC E
8917 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-503-7124, www.farmandtablenm.com
600 Central SE, Albuquerque 505-248-9800, www.thegrovecafemarket.com
A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm.
An artisan cafĂŠ serving breakfast, lunch, and brunch; fine coffee, tea, and wine. Featuring the highest quality seasonal ingredients available.
Support these restaurants, and support local food communities.
88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque 505-268-0206, www.talinmarket.com Talin T-Bar Traditional flavors Made quickly and with love Ramen. Monday: Dumplings!
4803 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque 505-344-9297, www.lospoblanos.com
2031 Mountain NW, Albuquerque 505-766-5100, www.seasonsabq.com
Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley region. Join us at La Merienda, Wed-Sat 6-9pm, by reservation only.
Oak fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining Old Town has to offer!
1828 Central SW, Albuquerque, 505-842-5507 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, 505-820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com
10601 Montgomery NE, Albuquerque 505-294-9463, www.savoyabq.com
Our salad-centric philosophy focuses on bold flavor combinations and savory proteins to compliment a huge variety of organic greens.
California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Savoy strives to serve as many local ingredients as possible. Wine tastings and happy hour.
116 Amherst SE, Albuquerque 505-919-8022, www. noshnobhill.com A delicatessen and bakery featuring authentic Jewish dishes with a modern twist made fresh and from scratch daily. Open for breakfast and lunch.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795, theshopbreakfastandlunch.com Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made in house, from local and organic ingredients. Tues- Sun.
2929 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-554-1967, www.amoreabq.com New Mexico's only certified authentic, handcrafted, wood-fired Neapolitan pizza. Handmade mozzarella, dessert pizzas, local beers, Italian wines. Casual atmosphere and rooftop patio.
3423 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-255-8226, www.zacatecastacos.com Zacatecas features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. Zacatecas is a real Taqueria.
3109 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-268-9250, www.yannisandlemoni.com
Offering a variety of catering options that always Yanni’s and Lemoni Lounge, located in Nob Hill for twenty years, serve the freshest seafood, steaks, chops, start with the freshest ingredients. Upscale, gourmet, and comfort foods for any occasion. pasta, gourmet pizza, and homemade desserts.
311 Gold SW, Albuquerque 505-814-1599, www.villamyriam.com Family owned from farm to cup, we are steeped in three generations of coffee excellence.
3009 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-254-9462, www.zincabq.com
300 Broadway NE, Albuquerque 505-265-4933, www.hartfordsq.com
5 Thomas, Los Lunas 505-866-1936, www.greenhousebistro.com
Our seasonal menu features local ingredients and changes weekly—enjoy the variety! Breakfast, lunch, and dinners-to-go. Sunday Brunch. Specialty coffee. Wonderful baked goods. Catering.
Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living.
322 Garfield, Santa Fe 505-995-9595, www.andiamosantafe.com
125 East Palace, Santa Fe 505-988-5232, www.lacasasena.com
304 Johnson, Santa Fe 505-989-1166, www.terracottawinebistro.com
We prepare the finest local and seasonal ingredients à la minute with the utmost care and respect. At the end of the day, we want our guests to feel better for having eaten here.
A local favorite for over thirty years! Chef Gharrity features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list.
A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, valued-priced wine list.
95 West Marcy, Santa Fe 505-984-1091, www.ilpiattosantafe.com
4056 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-438-1800, www.bluecornbrewery.com
414 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-955-0765, www.riochamasteakhouse.com
A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies and ranches. Extensive wine list.
A local favorite since 1997! Featuring awardwinning craft beers brewed on location. Northern New Mexican cuisine and contemporary comfort food highlighting local, sustainable ingredients.
Serving the finest prime and choice dry aged steaks, chops, and seafood. Our wine list features more than 800 labels and 20 wines by the glass, earning us the “Best Of Award Of Excellence” award from Wine Spectator.
A three level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites!
653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-982-4353, www.compoundrestaurant.com
229 Galisteo, Santa Fe 505-989-1919, www.loliviersantafe.com
198 State Road 592, Santa Fe 877-262-4666, www.fourseasons.com/santafe
Chef Xavier Grenet creates elegant and refreshing cuisine combining classic French culinary techniques with Southwestern flavors and ingredients.
Terra combines a sense of place, local farm-fresh ingredients, and New Mexican culinary traditions, with chef Andrew Cooper at the helm.
505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-780-5073, www.talinmarket.com
1005 S St Francis, Santa Fe 505-780-5483, www.omiragrill.com
Talin T-Bar Traditional flavors Made quickly and with love Ramen. Monday: Dumplings!
A Brazilian steakhouse known for its culinary excellence and internationally inspired dishes. We use only locally raised, handcut New Mexico beef, lamb, and pork.
Enjoy our delectable croissants and Danishes prepared fresh daily or our bistro menu for lunch and dinner with a selection from our wine bar.
428 Agua Fria, Santa Fe 505-982-1272, www.josephsofsantafe.com
112 West San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-983-7445, santafeculinaryacademy.com
Joseph's is the latest incarnation of Chef Joseph Wrede's mission to bring together the finest ingredients, artistic vision, and delightful, surprising flavor to every dish.
The Guesthouse is a student workshop and showcase through the Santa Fe Culinary Academy. The menu reflects the curriculum and changes regularly to embrace local, seasonal products. Reservations recommended.
103 East Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-8866, www.thegorgebarandgrill.com
125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-1977, www.taosinn.com
815 Early, Santa Fe 505-989-1288, www.rasajuice.com An organic juice bar and cafĂŠ committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, cold pressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs.
The Compound Restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Chef Mark Kiffin continues to preserve a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution.
401 S Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-988-5500, www.swissbakerysantafe.com
TAOS DINER I & II
908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 www.taosdinner.com Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
Our menu is straightforward yet eclectic, and Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. chock full of favorites made from scratch using as Patio dining, fresh local foods, award-wining wines, many fresh and local ingredients as possible. and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos.
Rasa is a modern juice bar and cafĂŠ, offering organic plant based foods and juices,
R asa 815 Early Street
innovative detox and cleansing programs.
505 989 1288
BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE We use only locally raised New Mexico beef, lamb, and pork and hand cut the meat daily. Tuesday - Sunday Lunch 11am - 2:30pm, Dinner 5pm - 9pm
edible notables A FRESH LOOK FOR THE COMPOUND Recently msn.com ranked The Compound in Santa Fe the third most romantic restaurant in the US. The Compound Restaurant provides guests an elegant, inviting, and unforgettable dining experience. As of early February, The Compound Restaurant has undergone a two-week renovation, including new diamond-finish Chef Mark Kiffin, The Compound plaster, of the interior adobe walls of their iconic Canyon Road establishment. Chef Mark Kiffin has also appointed a new sous chef, Michael Frank, who worked as the chef de partie at the Phoenician, Scottsdale, for three years before coming to Santa Fe. Kiffin deserves all accolades for his unique and seasonal cuisine derived from regional flavors, complimented by Mediterranean influences. If you haven't visited the Compound recently, now is the time to take that special someone for a special spring treat. www.compoundrestaurant.com
BLACK MESA WINERY SLAYS CALIFORNIA GIANTS! Black Mesa Winery’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon outscored well known Napa and Sonoma Cabs at the prestigious San Francisco Chronicle International Wine Competition. At this year’s event, the world’s largest wine competition with over five thousand entries, Black Mesa Winery received several honors. Black Mesa’s New Mexico Cabernet won a silver medal, and outscored both the Beaulieu Vineyards Rutherford Cabernet and the Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Estate Cabernet. Black Mesa also won silver medals for their Abiquiu White and Tempranillo at the competition. Wine lovers have begun to realize the quiet revolution happening in tiny Velarde, New Mexico. Black Mesa receives accolades in International competitions, not just for Riesling or other dessert wines, but also for the big Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet, Merlot, and their blends, as well as lesser-known varietals like Montepulciano and Petite Sirah. This is also true for their whites, such as Malvasia Bianca, and Viognier, and white blends, like their Abiquiu White. "This award is another confirmation of what we've known for years: Black Mesa's New Mexico wines can stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest wines from all over the globe," stated Karl Johnsen, winemaker. You can experience Black Mesa wines at their tasting rooms in Velarde and Taos! www.blackmesawinery.com
SANTA FE FAVORITE CHEF XAVIER GRENET OPENS FRENCH RESTAURANT Xavier Grenet, longtime executive chef at Ristra, is proud to announce the opening of his own fine-dining establishment, L’Olivier, located at the corner of West Alameda and Galisteo Street in downtown Santa Fe. L’Olivier features Grenet’s unique trademark, elegant and refreshing cuisine combining Chef Xavier Grenet, L'Olivier classic French culinary techniques with Southwestern flavors and ingredients. New York Times writer Christian Debendetti wrote that, “Grenet’s French-inspired menu uses bold Southwest flavors with finesse.” Grenet brings twenty years of experience to L’Olivier. Prior to his tenure at Ristra, he served as executive chef at Barcelona in San Francisco, Les Célébrités at the Essex House Hotel Nikko, New York City, and Jamin in Paris, France (under renowned chef Joël Robuchon). “My greatest satisfaction is knowing that I bring happiness and pleasure to others through my food. Cooking is bringing love to the table,” said Grenet. “This is the perfect time to start my own restaurant with my partner and wife Nathalie, who understands and supports my passion for fine cuisine.” www.loliviersantafe.com
REAL JEWISH FOOD COMES TO ALBUQUERQUE Jewish princess, Alisa Turtletaub, was in the restaurant business for years before she came to Burque from Los Angeles. After years in the planning, in August of 2013 she opened the city's very first Jewish deli, Nosh Jewish Delicatessen & Bakery at the corner of Amherst Drive and Silver Avenue. While not a kosher deli, Alisa Turtletaub, Nosh because she does serve meat and dairy together, Nosh has many of the traditional staples of the Jewish delicatessens of the West Coast, such as Matzo Ball Soup, Pastrami on Rye, Chocolate Babka, Challah bread, and much more. Turtletaub creates authentic dishes with a modern twist and everything is fresh and made form scratch. Nosh imports their bagel dough from a kosher bakery in New York. www. noshnobhill.com
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
back of the house
Santa Fe School of Cooking By Gail Guengerich
It could be intimidating to visit a twenty-four-year-old cooking school in Santa Fe. There could be that high-polish, starched snootiness that clings to fine food and makes many of us squirm. But walk into the Santa Fe School of Cooking and you experience the exact opposite—a feeling like you never want to leave—surrounded by large windows, earthen pottery, stacked tins of peppers and herbs, and intoxicating smells from the kitchen. All this is even before the mother-daughter team of Susan Curtis and Nicole Curtis Ammerman appear to offer a warm welcome. The school is thriving, and it doesn’t take long to understand that its success is inseparable from the Curtis women’s panache—an intuitive quality built of confidence, creativity, and a distinct style. Now at its new location on North Guadalupe, Susan says her vision for a cooking school that emerged in the middle of the night over twentyfive years ago is finally coming to full fruition. Offering dozens of classes on New Mexican, Native American, and Mexican cuisine, a walking restaurant tour, multiple cookbooks, and its own seasoning and spice line, the school bears the well-aged marks of a mature and established business. Nicole, who attended business school in the early phases, remembers when her mother left her job in real estate to establish the school. She calls it a classic mid-life crisis. Susan, in an introduction to one of her cookbooks, says its conception was a response to an empty nest and that fear of failure and its consequences for her family that drove her decision to pursue her dream—a decision that soon consumed all her time. “When she opened the school she completely ignored us. We were like ‘What? Where?’ She was completely gone,” says Nicole with a laugh. Though Nicole was bemused at the time, it wasn’t long until Nicole, turned off by a brief stint in corporate America, found her calling in the fruits of her mother’s labor.
edible Santa Fe | SPRING 2014
They work well together. Nicole describes Susan as the nuts and bolts businesswoman who speaks her mind. She describes herself as a warm and fuzzy people-person who likes being in the center of the action. Their working relationship is a complex system of delegation and authority, making a strong and well-balanced team. Susan proudly explains that their mission has always been to celebrate the food of Santa Fe. Promoting local food was not en vogue when she started the school; in fact, it was snubbed she says. “I wanted to pour local beer and wine. All the chefs in town said ‘you’re crazy.’” But Susan understood that when people visit a unique town like Santa Fe they want regional cuisine. She imagines opening schools in other locales with distinct cuisines—Jackson Hole, for instance, near her childhood home, a place rife with wild game. Both Nicole and Susan also proudly tout the collaborative aspect of the school—they draw experience and expertise from a pool of chefs, rather than a single personality. The school’s signature strengths—warmth, collaboration, and celebration—are hallmarks of women in community. In that spirit, the school will honor Women & Creativity month by featuring classes with four different female chefs—Deborah Madison, Cheryl Alters Jamison, Michelle Retzer, and Lois Ellen Frank. 125 North Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe, 505-983-4511 www. santafeschoolofcooking.com
Gail lives in Albuquerque where she writes for the food page of the Weekly Alibi. She has a three-year-old daughter who is already pretty good at stirring. (Not so good at cracking eggs.) She keeps a non-food related blog at spartanholiday.wordpress.com. Above Nicole Curtis Ammerman and Susan Curtis Photo by Stephanie Cameron
WOMEN CREAT IVITY 2014
To celebrate Women & Creativity month the Santa Fe School of Cooking and edible have put together a cooking series not to be missed. COOKING with DEBORAH MADISON – MARCH 6, 6PM Connecting people to the food they eat, its source, and its history has long been Madison’s work, and her writing reveals the deeper culture of food. Her interests lay with issues of biodiversity, seasonal and local eating, farmers markets, small and mid-scale farming, farmers and ranchers, gardens and gardeners. This class will embrace her food philosophy. COOKING with MICHELLE ROETZER – MARCH 15, 10AM Michelle brings almost thirty years of cooking experience to this class. She has cooked for numerous notables including presidents George H.W. Bush, Bill Clinton, Al Gore, and Vicente Fox of Mexico. Michelle’s knowledge on the traditional foods of New Mexico is at the heart of this class, inviting you to experience this delicious cuisine through local cooking techniques and the lore of the region. COOKING with CHERYL JAMISON – MARCH 21, 10AM Few aspects of life in New Mexico say as much about our cultural heritage as our food. We can directly trace its development through the melding of Native, Spanish, Anglo, and other influences into a singular cuisine. Four-time James Beard Award-winning local author Cheryl Jamison will celebrate this cuisine with recipes from one of her books, Tasting New Mexico: 100 Years of Distinctive Home Cooking. She will pepper her demo class with tasty tales about researching her landmark book, and she will highlight New Mexico’s agricultural abundance. COOKING with LOIS ELLEN FRANK – MARCH 26, 10AM Lois is a Santa Fe-based Native American chef, Native American foods historian, culinary anthropologist, James Beard Award winning author, and photographer. She has spent over twenty years documenting the foods and life ways of Native American communities throughout the Southwest. Lois will discuss the long history of farming and plant usage that qualify Native Americans to be considered as America’s first great cooks. All classes at the Santa Fe School of Cooking, 125 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe $85 per person per class Reservations at www.santafeschoolofcooking.com 505-983-4511
SANTA FE ® • ALBUQUERQUE • TAOS
STIR – WEDNESDAY, MARCH 5, 7PM Women & Food Salon and Edible Magazine Launch Party Meet the women who have stirred up local food—from those defining local food distribution, to building one of the strongest organic programs in the country, to training young women farmers and ranchers, to field to fork dining. These women will engage in a facilitated conversation, followed by a short reception with cocktails and bites. Art Bar, 119 Gold Avenue SW, Albuquerque Free. RSVP required to www.ediblesantafe.com/stir Presented by Art Bar & edible Santa Fe DISH – TUESDAY, MARCH 18, 6:30PM A Food Writing Workshop Love to read about food? Want to learn to write about it? The women of edible Santa Fe offer their expertise, experience, and constructive criticism in a collaborative food writing workshop. Learn the nuts and bolts of storytelling with and through food by working in a workshop setting with some of New Mexico’s finest food writers. Participants will bring food, write, and share, while seasoned food writers will offer suggestions on how to make your writing delicious. Farm & Table, 8917 4th Street NW, Albuquerque $20 per person. Reservations at www.ediblesantafe.com/dish Presented by edible Santa Fe RISE – TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 7PM A Feast to Celebrate Women & Food Join us for a dinner showcasing the collaborative efforts of women chefs, sommeliers, food artisans, and farmers. For one night only, join chef Jaye Wilkinson, chef Kim Muller, wine curator Amy Haas, brewer Kaylynn McKnight and pastry chef Tracy Johnson as they create a meal to remember from ingredients sourced from local women farmers and food artisans. This prix fixe menu will showcase the creativity and hard work of women working in food, as well as provide insight into how they work together to create some of our region’s most amazing culinary fare. Farm & Table, 8917 4th Street NW, Albuquerque $75 per person. Reservations at www.farmandtablenm.com Presented by Farm & Table and edible Santa Fe For more info visit www.ediblesantafe.com/rise
www.womenandcreativity.org ∙ www.ediblesantafe.com/women
O R I G I N A L S O U R C E S F O R H A N D C R A F T E D, AWARD WINNING BEER IN NEW MEXICO PAVING THE WAY FOR GREAT BEER SINCE 1996
4939 PAN AMERICAN FWY
4056 CERRILLOS RD.
IN SANTA FE
1720 CENTRAL AVE SW
60 EAST SAN FRANCISCO ST.
OPENING THIS SUMMER!
POURING THE BEST BEER NEW MEXICO HAS TO OFFER
Women and Food - The spring issue is a showcase of amazing women working in food and agriculture, from those defining local food distributio...
Published on Feb 26, 2014
Women and Food - The spring issue is a showcase of amazing women working in food and agriculture, from those defining local food distributio...