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edible

Member of edible communities

Spring 2012

SANTA FE

®

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD FROM

ALBUQUERQUE TAOS TO

cheers to spring

Enchanting beer • farming hops • craft brewers trail map subscribe @ ediblesantafe.com

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


Patio Opening April 15th!

Celebrate local food! Join us for dinner or weekend brunch and enjoy seasonal dishes created from scratch with ingredients sourced from local farmers and from our on-site farm. Dishes will satisfy the omnivore as well as the vegetarian! Reservations are recommended and can be made on our website.

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

In season produce harvested fresh from our Nambe farm.

709 Don Cubero Alley Santa Fe, NM 87505 505.820.9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2012

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Spring 2012 Contents Departments

38

DIY Guide to Your First Homebrew by Lauren

42

Edible Endeavors Homebrewers Helper, by

46

SW Garden Wind Breaks for Home and

48

Eat Local Guide

56

last bite SW Chocolate & Coffee Fest

Duffy Lastowka

2

Letter from the Editor

4

What’s Fresh, What’s Local

5

Farmer’s Market Listing

6

CSA Listing

8

Cooking Fresh Cooking with Spring Greens,

10

Vegetable Literacy The Chard Among

Goosefoots, by Deborah Madison

Features

13

Edible Kids Erda Farm Camp

15

Urban Foraging Five Things to Forage

26

by Amy White

Now, by Amy White

On the Cover

Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Garden, by Zoe Wilcox and Melanie Rubin

Growing good The Bountiful Alliance

and International Year of the Coop, by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Beer Tasting. Photo by Sergio Salvador.

16

In the Fridge Chef Emily Swantner, by Erin

28

Custom blends New Mexico’s Enchanting Brews, by Andrea Feucht

18

Southwest Table Native Edibles, by Lois

32

Craft Brewers Trail Map

On this Page

Ellen Frank

40

Pairings by David Sundberg

Memoir Salad Days, by Elizabeth Grant

53

Coffee and chocolate fesT Winners

Spring Greens. Photo by Carole Topalian.

21

Seavey

Thomas

22

Destination Neighborhoods

36

Edible Enterprise Growing Hops, by Sarah

Los Ranchos/North 4th by Sheli Armstrong and Stephanie Cameron

Wentzel-Fisher

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


letter from the editor

Publisher / Editor in Chief: Kate Manchester

A few months ago, out of the blue, I got a call from a couple in Albuquerque who were interested in publishing an Edible here in New Mexico. As you know, we are now a community of publications all over the country, some 70 strong at this point and growing. Given the small population of New Mexico, it is unlikely that two edibles would survive here and I told them so. We began to talk, and it became clear very quickly that it made sense for us to work together. My own edible business has grown, publishing the magazine and doing eight to ten events a year, plus a monthly newsletter is a lot for one person. I was ready for some help when this call came – in fact it felt like Divine Intervention. Stephanie and Walt Cameron and I signed a partnership agreement just a few short weeks ago – and I don’t think I could have scripted two better partners if I had tried. Stephanie is an artist, a graphic designer, photographer and entrepreneur. She and Walt are acting partners of Insight Creative LLC, a multimedia company. Stephanie has been an instrumental force behind Createasphere, a multi-platform communications and education company serving the entertainment industry. Walt has worked in the film industry for the last 15 years as a visual effect artist. He’s worked on over 40 films and TV shows, his credits include Titanic, Step Up 3D, and most recently the Green Lantern. In the last few years Walt has moved from the computer to the camera - working as a video journalist creating content for Rand McNally and Travel Channel. Stephanie and Walt are both New Mexico natives – they have two great kids and they love travel and good food. I cannot tell you how happy I am to have them as partners, it’s a game changer for sure and I am absolutely thrilled to be working with them. We have some great plans for 2012 – starting with five issues this year. We’ve also got some great events planned, we are partnering with Homegrown New Mexico in Santa Fe again this year for the second annual Kitchen Garden and Coop Tour, and we’ll be doing a series of dinners at Los Poblanos, as well as a series of cooking classes in Albuquerque. Follow us on Facebook or sign up for our newsletter so we can keep you in the loop. Last, but certainly not least – our spring issue! New Mexico’s craft brewing community is alive and well here, in fact it’s growing leaps and bounds. If you’d rather brew your own, you can find out how to do that too, or you could visit one of the many restaurants that are hosting beer dinners – chefs are pairing creative food with some seriously delicious and inventive brews.

Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Art Director Stephanie Cameron

Contributors Sheli Armstrong, Andrea Feucht, Lois Ellen Frank, Lauren Duffy Lastowka, Deborah Madison, Melanie Rubin, Sergio Salvador, Erin Seavey, David Sundberg, Elizabeth Grant Thomas, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Amy White, Zoe Wilcox

Contributing Editors Deborah Madison, Amelia White, Christie Green, Lorelei Kellogg, Brad Kraus

Ad Design Sarah Wentzel-Fisher and Stephanie Cameron

PHOTOGRAPHY Stephanie Cameron, Jennifer Esperanza, Lois Ellen Frank, Sergio Salvador, Carole Topalian

web & social media Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

ADVERTISING D. Walt Cameron

Friday REcipe Ameila White

CONTACT US: 551 W. Cordova Road #511 Santa Fe, NM 87505 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Subscribe • Give a Gift Buy an Ad • LETTERS 505-212-0791 or WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or e-mail us at info@ ediblesantafe.com

You’ll have to look inside for the rest, it’s our first team effort. So welcome to spring – and welcome Stephanie and Walt to team Edible!!

edible Santa Fe takes pride in providing its subscribers with fast, friendly, small town service. edible Santa Fe is published 5 times a year by Bite Sized Media, LLC. Distribution is throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2012 All rights reserved.

Kate Manchester, Stephanie Cameron, and Walt Cameron

®

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

Associate Publisher:

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We Love Local

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


what’s fresh, what’s local

Dairy: EGGS: Chicken, Turkey, Duck BUTTER GOAT CHEESES GOAT MILK Condiments, Jams and Salsas GARLIC OIL HONEY JAMS AND JELLIES CHUTNEYS, MUSTARDS, AND SALSAS BREADS, PASTRIES, AND OTHER BAKED GOODS Meat: PASTURED LAMB GRASSFED BEEF AND BEEF JERKY GRASSFED BUFFALO GRASSFED YAK AND YAK JERKY SAUSAGES ALL NATURAL PORK TURKEY CHICKEN GUINEA FOWL GOAT MEAT Beans and Nuts: PECANS PISTACHIOS PINTO BEANS To find recipes using local ingredients, visit us online at www.ediblesantafe.com

At the Farmers Markets: HOTHOUSE TOMATOES HOTHOUSE CUKES WINTER SQUASH GARLIC LEEKS SPRING ONIONS POTATOES SHALLOTS ARUGULA BRAISING GREENS CHARD KALE MUSTARD GREENS OYSTER MUSHROOMS PEAS SALAD MIXES SHITAKES SPINACH SPROUTS AND MICROGREENS JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Dried: DRIED AND FROZEN CHILE JUJUBES HERBS GARLIC SCAPE POWDER LOCAL HERBAL TEAS DRIED APPLES HOMEMADE PASTA

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farmers market listing ALBUQUERQUE MARKETS Downtown Growers’ Market Robinson Park, 8 and Central

Saturdays, 7 – noon, May – November Third Saturday 9 – 2, November – April Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC and Senior checks North East Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market West side of Albuquerque Academy, 6400 Wyoming Blvd. Enter the school’s campus at Burlison Rd., just north of Academy Rd. on Wyoming Blvd. Go right (south) and the market will be on the right hand side across from the softball fields.

Tuesdays, 3 – 7, May – October Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC and Senior checks Corrales Growers’ Market Recreation Center, 500 Jones Rd. and Corrales Rd., south of the post office

Sundays, 9 – noon, May – October First Sunday of each month, 10 – 1, November – April Accepts WIC and Senior checks Los Ranchos Growers’ Market City Hall, 6718 Rio Grande Blvd. NW

Saturdays, 7 – 10 (8am September – November), May – November 2 Saturday of each month, 10 – noon, December – April Accepts WIC and Senior checks

Elsewhere Alamogordo Farmers’ Market Frontier Village, Otero County Fairgrounds

Farmington Growers’ Market The Farmington Museum at Gateway Park, 3041 E Main St.

Saturdays, 8 – 10, Tuesdays 4:30 – 6, May – November Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC and Senior checks Gila Farmstand #414 Hwy 211

Mimbres Valley Farmers’ Market Mimbres Round Up Lodge, 94 Acklin Hill Rd in San Lorenzo

Thursdays, 4:30 – 6:30, May – October Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC and Senior checks Mountainair Farmers’ and Gardeners’ Market Roosevelt St., next to the post office

Tuesdays, 3:30 – 6:30, May – November Las Cruces Farmers’ and Crafts Market Downtown Mall

Saturdays and Wednesdays, 8 - 12:30, Year-round Accepts WIC and Senior checks

Socorro Farmers’ Market Socorro Plaza Park

Saturdays, 8 – noon and Tuesdays, 5 – 7, May – October Saturdays, 9 – 10 at the Community Kitchen on Center St, November – February Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC and Senior checks

Saturdays, 8 – noon, May - September

Sunland Park: Ardovino’s Desert Crossing Farmers’ Market Ardovino’s Desert Crossing, Ardovino Drive

Pecos Farmers’ Market Canelas Restuarant, 29 Glorieta Hwy (Hwy 50)

Saturdays, 7:30 – noon, May – October Accepts WIC and Senior checks

Sundays, 9 – 1, May – October Accepts WIC and Senior checks

Taos Farmers’ Market Town hall lot on Camino de Placitas

Las Cruces: Sunday Growers’ Market North side of Idaho Crossings parking lot at 1300 El Paseo

Raton First Street Market Ribera: El Valle Farmers’ Market Route 3 in Ribera

Sundays, 10 – 2, April – October Accepts EBT, WIC and Senior checks

Sundays, 9 – 2, May – October Accepts EBT, WIC and Senior checks

Las Vegas: Tri County Farmers’ Market 6 St. and University

Santa Fe Farmers’ Market Farmers’ Market Pavilion, 1607 Paseo de Peralta at Guadalupe

Saturdays and Wednesdays, 7 – 1 or sellout, May – October Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC and Senior checks Los Alamos Farmers’ Market Mesa Public Library parking lot, 20 and Central

Saturdays and Tuesdays, 8 – 1, May – November Saturdays, 9 – 1, December – April Accepts EBT, Debit, Credit, WIC and Senior checks Silver City Farmers’ Market 7 and Bullard

Truth or Consequences: Sierra County Farmers’ Market Ralph Edwards Park, on Riverside between Birch and Cedar

Thursdays, 7 – 1, May – October Second Thursday, 8 – 1 at the Fuller Lodge, January – April Accepts WIC and Senior checks

Saturdays, 8:30 – noon, May – October Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC, and Senior checks

Saturdays, 8:30 – 11:30, May – October Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC and Senior checks

Saturdays, 8 – 1, May – October Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC and Senior checks Taos Pueblo: Red Willow Farmers’ Market Red Willow Education Center, 885 Starr Rd.

Wednesdays and Fridays, 10 – 5, year round (indoors in winter) Accepts WIC and Senior checks

Saturdays, 8:30 – 10, Year-round Bayard Farmers’ Market Bayard Lions Club, 808 Tom Foy Blvd/ Hwy 180

Wednesdays, 3 – 6, May – October Accepts EBT, Debit, WIC and Senior checks Cuba Farmers’ Market St. Francis of Assisi Park, off NM 126

Saturdays, 9 – noon, May – October Accepts WIC and Senior checks Deming: Copper Street Farmers’ Market 216 S Copper St., next to Lifeways Health Store

Saturdays and Wednesdays, 9:30 – 12:30, June – November Accepts WIC and Senior checks

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csa listings Join a CSA and pledge your support of farmers and ranchers by helping to assure that they have the capital they need each season to grow our food and their farms. CSA members enjoy a relationship with the people growing their food, as well as the freshest local produce available. Many CSAs limit the number of members each season—so call and join today! Beneficial Farms CSA Year-round Albuquerque and Santa Fe Dena Aquilina P.O. Box 30044 Santa Fe, NM 87592 www.beneficialfarm.com shares@beneficialfarm.com 505-470-1969

Santa Cruz Farms Year Round Organic Produce Santa Fe Farmers Market House 830 El Llano Rd. Española, NM 87532 santacruzfarmandgreenhouse@gmail. com 505-692-9496

Cerro Vista Farm May – November Daniel Carmona 198 Lower Buena Vista Road Cerro, NM 87519 575-586-0877

Morningstar Farms March – November Melinda Bateman Artisanal Vegetables Taos / Arroyo Seco, NM 87514 www.morningstarfarmoftaos.com mstarfarm@q.com 575-776-1757

East Mountain Organic Farms May – October Vegetable and Flower CSA Steve Apodaca P.O. Box 2343 Tijeras, NM 87059 www.eastmountainorganicfarms.com 505-281-5083 Erda Gardens May – October P.O. Box 8845 ABQ, NM 87198-8845 info@erdagardens.org 505-610-1538 Green Tractor Farm June – October Certified organic Tom and Mary Dixon Pick ups at our farm in La Cienega or at the SF Farmers market on Saturdays. 505-471-0089 or 505-660-0605 tram@newmexico.com Skarsgard Farms (formerly Los Poblanos Organics) Year-round Monte Skarsgard Home deliveries available in ABQ Multiple pick-up locations Shop online and customize your box PO Box 7715 Albuquerque, NM 87194 info@skarsgardfarms.com www.skarsgardfarms.com 505-681-4060 Pollo Real Year Round Poultry CSA Tom and Tracey Delahantey Poultry: Chickens, ducks, heritage turkeys, eggs Santa Fe Farmers Market, Year Round 108 Hope Farms Rd., Socorro, NM 87801 www.polloreal.org 505-838-0345

Dairy Year Round P.O. Box 3823 Moriarty, NM 87035 NMgoatdairy@higherspeed.net www.theoldwindmilldairy.com 505-384-0033 Red Tractor Farm June – November Dory Wegrzyn and Nerissa Muus 1407 Dennison Rd. SW Albuquerque, NM 87125 www.redtractorfarm.net myredtractor@yahoo.com 505-604-5956 Rio Arriba Farms May 31 to October 25 Carol Bondy Santa Fe, Abiquiu, Chama and Taos www.rioarribafarms.com info@rioarribafarms.com 505-990-5607 Ross’ Gardens CSA Year Round Kay and Ross Estancia, NM 87016 rbird4673@q.com Squash Blossom Farm June – September Gail Minton P.O. Box 2649 Ranchos de Taos, NM 87507 sbfarm@laplaza.org 575-751-4681 Vida Verde Farms June-October Albuquerque Willy Carleton (505) 933-1105 and 505 933-1106 vidaverdefarms@yahoo.com www.vidaverdfarm.com

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If we’ve left you off this list, it’s because we don’t know about you! Please e-mail info@ediblesantafe.com with CSA in the subject line, your contact and CSA information, and we’ll be happy to include you.


505-217-2010

upcoming events To register & see our full list of events visit lospoblanos.com

VINAIGRETTES, DRESSINGS & COLD SAUCES COOKING CLASS Thursday, April 19th EARTh DAy KAyAK TOUR Sunday, April 22nd CINCO de MAyO COOKING CLASS Thursday, May 3rd SPRING GARDENING SALE AT ThE FARM ShOP May 1st–4th MOThER’S DAy BRUNCh Sunday, May 13th FIELD TO FORK DINING May 24th, 25th and June 7th, 8th & 9th LAVENDER AROMAThERAPy wORKShOP Sunday, June 3rd

4803 Rio Grande Blvd NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-9297

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


cooking fresh

Cooking with Spring Greens Recipes by Amy White • Photos by Sergio Salvador Blogger Amy White is totally obsessed with vegetables and fruits. Amy can be found every Friday with a new seasonal recipe at Ediblesantafe.com, and on her blog, www.veggieobsession.com. In the early months of the growers’ markets each year, most of what you’ll see is greens. Spring is a funny time, because we’re so eagerly anticipating all kinds of warm season produce, but it’s still so far off. From February through the beginning of May, the days start to get warm and we’re tricked into thinking winter’s over, but there’s always the chance of a frost. Greens like kale and spinach are the only crops frost-hardy enough to overwinter and produce in early spring. More delicate greens such as chard and lettuce can be planted in very cold weather and mature quickly. Other cool season treats like peas, beets and turnips won’t be ready until the end of May. Even June is a slow time in the garden because we’ve planted all our warm season crops, and just have to wait for them to mature. It can be hard to think of exciting things to do with greens, but they are an important part of eating seasonally. Spring’s capricious weather calls for variety. A fresh green salad is nice on a balmy spring afternoon, but on a chilly night, braising greens make a hearty warm dinner.

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Raw Kale Salad with Peas, Feta and Quinoa

Chard with Oranges and Red Chile

Raw kale sounds strange, but the trick is to rub it with lots of lemon juice and salt until it is tender. Lots of quinoa and feta make this a filling meal. It’s also a nice lunch to bring to work because it’s good warm or cold, and it’s not too perishable. Add snap peas or shelled peas for a spring treat.

Oranges give this dish a sweet, tangy flavor that’s mellower than the vinegar used in many greens recipes. Enjoy hot or cold as a side dish, or combine with a grain such as quinoa or farro for a hearty salad.

1 C. quinoa 2 C. water 1 bunch kale (any kind) 2 T. lemon juice 2 T. olive oil 1/2 t. salt 1 C. shelled peas, or snap peas cut into 1/2 inch pieces 1/2 C. feta Black pepper

2 oranges 1 bunch chard 2 T. olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 t. red chile or pequin flakes Salt and black pepper Using a sharp knife, cut thick slices off the ends of each orange. Stand them on flat ends, then slice the rest of the peel off. Cut sections free by slicing downward along the membranes, and remove seeds. Set orange sections aside with all their juice.

Bring quinoa and water to a boil in a small saucepan. Simmer 10 minutes, until all the water is absorbed. Add peas and steam until tender (or leave snap peas raw). Keep warm if you’re in the mood for a warm salad, or cool by spreading on a sheet pan. Wash kale thoroughly, discarding the stems. Tear leaves into 1 to 2 inch pieces. In a large bowl, add lemon juice, oil and salt to the kale. Squeeze and toss with your hands until the kale is soft, as if it had been lightly steamed. Mix in quinoa, peas and feta. Season with salt and pepper as desired. Serves 4.

Wash chard thoroughly and tear leaves into 1 to 2 inch pieces. Chop the stems crosswise into 1/4 inch slices. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium flame. Add chard, garlic and chile, toss to coat with oil, and cook until tender. Add oranges, and cook another minute to warm them and reduce the juice a bit. Season with salt and lots of pepper. Serves 4.

Honey-Braised Turnips and Greens with Ginger Crème Fraiche Baby spring turnips are tender and mild, and can be eaten whole with their greens. They’re fantastic when braised with honey and ginger. Ginger crème fraiche makes this dish amazing! You can also use larger turnips and bunches of turnip greens. Just cut large turnips in 1-inch wedges, then blanch them for a few minutes and drain off the cooking water to remove bitterness. 1 T. butter 1 bunch baby turnips with greens 1 C. chicken or vegetable broth 2 t. grated fresh ginger or 1 t. ground ginger, divided 2 T. honey, divided 1/4 C. crème fraiche or sour cream Salt and pepper Melt butter in a large skillet. Thoroughly wash the turnips, leaving the greens attached, and lay them in the pan. Add the broth, half the ginger and half the honey. Cover tightly and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the turnips are tender. Season as needed with salt. Mix crème fraiche with remaining honey and ginger, and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle over turnips or serve on the side. Serves 2.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


vegetable literacy

The Chard Among the Goosefoots Recipes and Story by Deborah Madison • Photo by Stephanie Cameron But why goosefoot? Because the leaves are supposedly the shape of a goose’s foot. And they are, sort of. And how do I know? While visiting a u-pick berry farm in the Cuyahoga National Park, a small flock of geese had gathered behind a fence. As my friend and I approached their enclosure they ran towards us, their long necks outstretched, hissing and honking with unbridled menace because while we were proper visitors to the farm, in their eyes we were also likely to be thieves. I asked the farmer if he’d be willing to pick up a goose and show me its foot so I could see its shape. He did so, thrusting a big, orange leathery-looking claw-like appendage in my face. It was a powerful looking foot, but its shape was both broader and simpler than I had expected. It didn’t match up exactly with the shape of the leaves in this family, although it did roughly enough. This webbed foot was rather broad and many goosefoot leaves like spinach and chard, are narrow. Maybe some geese have narrower feet? Still, it is possible to see the resemblance, especially when you think of other leaves in other families that have absolutely no similarity, like artichokes and salsify, two members of the daisy family.

The goosefoot family of plants, the chenopodiaceae, is one we’re all pretty familiar with even if we don’t know its longish name. It includes spinach, beets, and chard, but also a host of edible wild (and cultivated) plants collectively known as “quelites”. Among them are lambs quarters, magentaspreen, orach, pigweed, and the cultivar, Good King Henry. Quinoa and huanzontle also reside here, as do a number of wild desert plants, like Four Wing Saltbush. All have masses of small edible seeds. Some, like huanzontle, are eaten while they’re still in their flower form. Others, like quinoa, are eaten once the seeds are formed and dried. One botany book of mine succinctly sums up the goosefoots as a group of rank and weedy plants, which some clearly are. Epazote, the only herb in the family, certainly could be described that way, as can a number of the wild goosefoots that grow around my neighborhood. When I note the summer pollen index in the morning paper, much of it is due to the “chenopods”, the wild weedy ones just going to flower in June.

Aside from the one herb, the seeds and the beetroot, the edible parts of this family consist mostly of leafy greens (and also reds purples, and magentas), tender leaves that are edible raw when young, cooked when older, and highly nutritious at any stage. There are not nearly as many edibles as in other families, like the Cruciferous (cabbage) family or the Solanaceae (tomatoes), but they are all easy to prepare, not difficult to grown, and they pair well with one another in all sorts of ways. The greens of these various plants are essentially interchangeable and taste very much the same, the wild ones being somewhat stronger. Among them, I’m partial to chard. It’s a dense, handsome plant. It grows pretty much easily everywhere. It yields edible stalks as well as extremely handsome leaves. Just the appearance those thick leaves with their bubbled surfaces, not to mention the translucent golden, rose and purple stems of the rainbow variety, make my mouth water, even though chard isn’t as exciting as, say, mustard greens or broccoli raab. It is, however, ever reliable, useful, and can be prepared in all sorts of ways. Just steaming or braising the leaves until they’re tender, then turning them in some good olive oil, sea salt and pepper flakes is a simple act that goes far in the taste department. Chard is always compatible with lentils (in a soup) and potatoes (added to boiled ones or a mash.) My favorite frittata, the Provencale trouchia, is based on slowly cooked chard and onions with basil. Another dish I never tired of is chard cooked leisurely in its own moisture with a few tablespoons of rice and a lot of cilantro, cumin and garlic. You don’t end up with a lot, but the few bites you get are intensely satisfying. Chard can also

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serve as somewhat neutral but bulk-supplying element when cooked in a soup with stronger tasting but less substantial greens, such as sorrel, nettles, and lovage. It can stuff a crepe or nestle into a lasagna. The combination of eggplant and chard is oddly meaty. The leaves can also be used to harbor fillings. And on and on. All in all chard is an extremely useful green that can be led in this and that direction depending on its herb or spice companions. And you know what else you can do with it? You can put the leaves in a vase and put them on the table to admire for a day, then cook it.

Chard, Ricotta and Saffron Cakes with Micro Greens

Braised Chard Stems with Saffron and Tomatoes Serves 3 or 4

You can eat the whole plant, that is, the stems as well as the leaves. 1 lb. chard stems 1 1/2 T. olive oil 1/2 small onion, finely diced 2 t. thinly sliced basil leaves, plus extra for garnish 1 pinch saffron threads Sea salt and freshly milled pepper 2 tomatoes, seeded and finely diced 2 T. grated Parmesan or Gruyère cheese, optional Cook the chard stems first by simmering them in salted water acidulated with lemon juice. Reserve a cup of the cooking water.

Makes 12 3-inch cakes These can serve as a tidy little nibble for a pass-around, made slightly larger for a first course, or large still for a vegetable main course. Enough chard to make 10 to 12 cups trimmed leaves 2 pinches saffron threads 1 C. white whole -wheat pastry flour or spelt flour 1 t. sea salt 1 ½ t. baking powder

Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet with the onion, basil, and saffron threads. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften and the saffron begins to yield its color, about 5 minutes. Add the chard stems, season with salt and pepper, then add the reserved cooking water. Simmer, covered, until the stems are fully tender, about 7 minutes. Remove the lid and allow the remaining liquid to reduce to a syrupy consistency. Add the tomatoes and cook another minute or so to warm them through. Serve with the extra basil strewn over the stems and the grated cheese, if using.

2 farm eggs 1 C. ricotta cheese

From Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison

1/3 C. grated Parmesan cheese ¾ C. whole milk 3 T. olive oil or ghee To Finish: Thick yogurt or sour cream and micro greens Wash the leaves and cook them in a covered pot until they are wilted and tender but not overcooked, so keep an eye on them and taste them frequently once they’ve wilted. When done, put the greens in a colander and set them aside to cool and drain. Cover the saffron threads with 2 tablespoons boiling water and set aside. In one bowl, mix the flour with the salt and baking powder. In another bowl, mix the ricotta, cheese, eggs and milk together. Add the oil and butter and steeped saffron threads, then whisk in the flour mixture. Returning to the greens, squeeze out as much water as possible, then chop the greens finely and stir them into the batter. Heat a pan with olive oil, ghee or butter. Drop batter onto the pan, making small or larger cakes as you wish, and cook over medium-low heat. The batter is quite thick and it will not behave exactly like a pancake. You need to give it plenty of time in the pan and it will still be very moist. Cook over moderate heat until golden on the bottom, then turn the cakes once, resisting any urge to pat them down, and cook until the second side is also well-colored. Serve each with a spoonful of sour cream and a garnish of micro greens. From Vegetable Literacy, by Deborah Madison

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


naturalbirths at Lovelace Women’s Hospital The Natural Birthing Center is making a splash with water births at Lovelace Women’s Hospital, the only hospital in New Mexico dedicated to women. Now you have the option of welcoming your newborn in the kindest, most gentle way in a safe, controlled environment. Talk to your health care provider to see if the Natural Birthing Center is the best option for you and your baby.

• Offers pain relief and faster recovery

• Four private labor/delivery/postpartum

rooms with water birthing tubs

• Less trauma and avoiding

medications for newborn For more information, call 727.7800.

• 18 private patient rooms with home-like

atmosphere and in-room sleeping accommodations for a guest

• Convenient first floor location with

fireplaces in the lobby

Lovelace Women’s Hospital Natural Birthing Center

Carlisle

for mothers

N San Mateo

NaTural BIrThINg CENTEr Jefferson

BENEFITS oF NaTural BIrTh

Montgomery

4701 Montgomery Blvd NE 727.7800

Natural Birthing Center

lovelace.com

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Erda Gardens Farm Camp Erda Gardens and Learning Center may be one of Albuquerque’s best kept secrets. As the oldest CSA in the area, Erda Gardens has been providing all local, bio-dynamic produce for over a decade. Rejecting the paradigm that you must continue to grow to profit, the gardens have maintained a smaller membership of about 30 families since it’s inception in 1996. A true model of Community Supported Agriculture, members help plant, tend and harvest crops for the weekly distribution as well as come together to make major decisions regarding the farm. Three years ago, when parents asked for more opportunites for their families to be involved in the farm, Erda responded with an innovative program called Farm Camp. Instead of having one area that is a “children’s garden,” Erda sought to have youngsters engage in all aspects of the farm. What they found was that no task is too big for its smallest members. Beyond daily gardening tasks, kids learn how to milk a dairy goat, make simple cheeses, preserve abundant apricots into jars of jam and press apples into a thick delicious cider. Guest speakers on topics such as bees and composting worms come out with their fuzzy or crawly friends so that kids can get an upclose look at some of the important (if often overlooked) creatures that keep the farm strong and healthy. Ecology, teamwork and nutrition are just a few of the lessons that can be tought on a working farm. What makes the seeds of these big concepts take root in a child’s mind? Hands on learning and lots of fun. Farm Camp has four seperate one week programs in June and July. Space is limited and pre-registration is necessary. For more information, contact Erda Gardens and Learning Center at (505) 610-1538 or info@erdagardens.org.

Locally and regionally grown, organic produce, groceries and meats delivered to your door. Order online for delivery or pick up. SIGN UP NOW FOR YOUR WEEKLY CUSTOMIZED HARVEST BOX. WWW.SKARSGARDFARMS.COM ∙ (505) 681-4060

Formerly Los Poblanos Organics Distributing our products via home/office delivery. Pick-up options in Los Alamos, Santa Fe, Placitas, Rio Rancho, Albuquerque, Las Cruces, and El Paso.

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Serving Beer & Wine

Featuring quality toys and games from fair-labor manufacturers in America, Europe and ports around the world Monday - Thursday 10 - 5ish Friday & Saturday 10 - 5:30ish Sunday 12 - 4ish

Plaza Mercado • 112 W. San Francisco St. • Suite 212-C • 982-9373

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urban foraging

Five Things to Forage Now Recipes by Amy White • Photo by Stephanie Cameron

Evergreen needles

You can harvest pine, spruce or fir needles anytime, but their flavor is strongest in early spring. Use just the very tips (which are the newest, most flavorful needles) to infuse a simple syrup for cocktails and desserts.

Rosemary

This tasty herb is commonly found in landscaping around town. It’s evergreen, so harvest a few sprigs anytime.

Lilac blossoms (April-May)

You can find these beautiful blossoms all over town in pink, purple or white, for only about two weeks each spring. They can be candied and used as dessert decorations, or infused into a simple syrup for cocktail delights.

Mulberries (May)

The female version of the mulberry tree produces tasty berries instead of allergy-causing pollen. Look for a mess of fallen fruit that leaves black spots on the sidewalk. Pick berries when they are red or black for fresh eating, jam making, or all kinds of other fun recipes. I’ve even seen white mulberries (they’re actually more of a tan color) around Albuquerque.

Nopales (May)

The paddles of our ubiquitous prickly pear cacti are tangy and succulent, especially when they are young and the needles haven’t fully developed. The new needles look like fleshy little apostrophes! Harvest with tongs, then scrub with a vegetable brush to get all needles off. They make a great salad or salsa with chile, onions and tomatoes. Or add them to scrambled eggs with chorizo.

Evergreen Syrup I made a syrup from Corkbark Fir needles gathered on a hike near Sandia Crest, and it turned out great. You can experiment with different types of evergreen needles to see which flavor you like best, but the youngest needles are generally the tastiest. 1 C. sugar 1 C. water Several sprigs of evergreen needles Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan, bring to a boil, and simmer about 5 minutes. Strain into a jar and cool. Keeps several weeks in the refrigerator.

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Evergreen Whiskey Sour I had this fantastic drink with Douglas Fir syrup at the Seattle Art Museum cafe last winter, with a house-made brandied cherry. 1 part lemon juice 1 part Evergreen Syrup 2 parts whiskey Shake or stir vigorously with ice. Strain into martini glasses.

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in the fridge

Chef Emily Swantner Story by Erin Seavey Chef Emily Swantner has a passion for the bold flavors of the world. After eighteen years of court reporting, a career that didn’t lend itself to travel, the Corpus Christi native set off on a journey abroad with her husband, George. They have lived in Italy, Saudi Arabia and Japan, and traveled extensively throughout the surrounding regions of each place. Emily’s food is a reflection of her travels. She has a collection of close to 1,000 cookbooks, and often dozes off at night with one on her chest. Emily attended the Art Institute of Houston for culinary school, and has studied with culinary professionals, including Italy’s Marcella Hazan and France’s Patricia Wells. She is unremittingly passionate about sharing her love of food with others. Emily lives in Santa Fe with her husband and two Bouvier de Flandres.

Roots I come from a food-focused family: Mexican and Greek. My mother’s Greek-Mexican, my dad’s Czech-German, and everybody in our family cooked. If we weren’t eating food, we were all talking about food. In our kitchen, when I grew up, we had an elevated bar and all of us would just sit there and watch my mom cook every night. My mother taught me how to bake when I could reach the countertop, and consequently, I don’t bake today. I don’t because I had to do the baking before I could go out and play with my friends, so I had to do the baking, do my homework, and then I could go out. I’m not that finicky and fussy and that’s why I like savory food, because I don’t have to be.

Cooking for Friends I do Sunday Suppers. I just decided to get to the table for camaraderie. I send out announcements with a story of that particular country I’ve been to and an experience, and I tell them a little bit about what I’m gonna do. It’s fabulous. I just did it last Sunday night and it was a Spanish supper – it was a wonderful, gregarious group of people. No one knew each other and they had so much fun. My next one is Moroccan and after that is South American.

Spice, My Vice I have two refrigerators and two freezer spaces and I bring back spices from all over the world. I freeze them because they’ll last up to a year rather than this whole six-month thing. I also have a favorite mail order. They daily grind and do a lot of their own mixtures, which I think are very authentic if I’m not going to do my own.

An Unlikely Friendship I developed this relationship with a Saudi woman [when George and I lived in Saudi Arabia], which is very difficult to do. You don’t really

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develop relationships with the Saudis much, but George worked with a young man in his office and I think I sent some muffins or something with him to work one day, so the young man took them to his wife and kids and she would send something back that she would make and then I would send something back to her. I never met her. We had this relationship through food.

All About Condiments Condiments are what I use to elevate a dish. I make double batches of harissa because I have all my friends on it. Think of it as the North African ketchup, but it’s very spicy. It originated in Tunisia, but it’s kind of migrated over to Morocco. It’s just a beautiful condiment. I always have it in my refrigerator. Harissa is always in there, chipotle puree, preserved lemons, and kimchee are always in there. Kimchee is fermented cabbage; well it’s fermented vegetables. Right now I actually have some dried daicon radish kimchee.

The Chef’s Sense I just look at a recipe and I can taste it. I didn’t know I had this sense until I was probably in my mid- to late-twenties - then it was just what I did. I am just all about food. You get me talking about food and my heart just starts pumping. Log on to ediblesantafe.com for bonus recipes from Emily Swanter. For Chef Emily’s recipes, photographs of her travels, and information on her cooking lessons, visit her website: www.epicureanodyssey.com

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Photo by Erin Seavey

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southwest table

Native Edibles The Power of the Three Sisters Story and photos by Lois Ellen Frank For centuries, Native peoples have relied on a diet containing corn, beans, and squash. Called the Three Sisters by the Iroquois Nations of the Northeastern United States, these three plants emerged from the first garden as sisters to help and support each other. The Iroquois believe that the well being of every crop is protected by the Sisters, spirits collectively referred to as Do-o-ha-ko (“those who support us” or “our sustainers”). The term also refers to the practice of planting these three Sister plants together in garden mounds. This tradition is good not only for the body, but for the planet as well. The Indigenous understanding of sustainability is based on the philosophy that all things are integrally connected. Traditional Ecological Knowledge or TEK is a highly empirical indigenous science earned over thousands of years of careful observation, passed down by Native elders and therefore an ancient paradigm of sustainability. This TEK can play a pivotal role in how humans can more effectively and spiritually interact with their ecosystems and offer shared traditional knowledge of how to restore eco-cultural heritage and landscapes by revitalizing a connection between people and place. Cara Romero (Chemehuevi), the program director of the Indigeneity program at Bioneers in Santa Fe, New Mexico, states, “TEK is a viewpoint that has been critically undervalued until now, and that it provides a crucial compliment to the tools of Western science as we work to restore social and ecological balance to Mother Earth. Native Peoples are truly holding a sacred role for the planet.” Here in New Mexico, it is often said by Native communities that a healthy environment means a healthy culture, which means a healthy people. Likewise corn, beans, and squash are also considered to be sacred gifts from the Great Spirit. The way these vegetables grow in the garden exemplifies this notion of interconnectedness, as do the complementary nutrients they provide. The Three Sisters offer an important lesson in environmental cooperation. Corn draws nitrogen from the soil, while beans replenish it. The tall corn stalks supply climbing poles for the bean tendrils. And the broad leaves of squash grow low to the ground, shading the soil, keeping it moist, and deterring the growth of weeds. Native communities that grow the Three Sisters were and are aware that these three are nutritionally rich and complementary. From a nutritional standpoint, corn supplies a variety of important amino acids and carbohydrates. Beans, which are extremely high in protein, (I call them sustenance in a pod) are low in sugar and fat and supply two essential amino acids not found in corn. Corn lacks the amino acids lysine and tryptophan, which the human body needs to make proteins and niacin, but beans contain both so together they provide a balanced diet. Combined with corn, which also contains protein, these two alone offer every essential amino acid. Both corn and beans are also very high in fiber. Squash provides even more vitamins, including Vitamin A and C, and

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their seeds have high-quality fats that are important to a healthy diet and are not found in corn or beans. These three together support a diet rich in high proteins and low in fats and sugars, make a delicious plant based meal, are inexpensive, easy to grow and sustainable. Clayton Brascoupe, a Mohawk-Algonquin of the Iroquois Six nations, is the program director of the Traditional Native American Farmers’ Association (TNAFA) at New Mexico’s Tesuque Pueblo where he lives with his family. He has practiced traditional agriculture here in the Southwest for many years, and emphasizes that there were always multiple varieties of corn, beans, and squash planted together in fields. Chiles and tomatoes were also planted in traditional fields, alongside the Three Sisters. I plant corn, beans, and squash in my garden every year. For as long as I can remember, my mother planted these vegetable relatives, too— it was as if our garden and its bounty were members of our extended family. Our garden was small, yet produced enough food each year for all three of us kids to sell the surplus at the end of our road on a small stand we constructed out of a folding table. We grew the Three Sisters as our main crops, and between and around them we added tomatoes, cucumbers, and herbs. Wild and medicinal plants were always encouraged to stay if they were volunteer crops inter-dispersed with the crops we planted. Mother always felt that was a more sustainable way to grow as much as possible in a small area. This spring, I taught the Indigenous Concepts of Native American Food class for the first time, a new required science class at the Institute of American Indian Arts, IAIA, here in Santa Fe, New Mexico. As part of our weekly lab, we grew sprouts in jars, which we ate and the students found that they were quite delicious, but we also took some of the sprouted seeds, that several of the students planted and grew. This is easy to do and gives a great start to your Three Sisters garden. I begin my garden each year indoors, in starting beds under my kitchen windowsill. I usually begin to get my plants starts ready in mid-to late May, and try to put them in the ground the first week of June. I plant the corn seeds using traditional heirloom varieties indigenous to the

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Southwest, along with pole beans (runner beans, Anasazi beans, and tepary beans are a favorite of mine) and a variety of squashes, including pumpkins.

You too, can grow a traditional Three Sisters garden by following some simple steps: 1) Select a site or use planting boxes. You can begin with an area that is 10 by 10 feet or use two 4 by 8 feet planting boxes. 2) Prepare the soil. The soil should be turned over in April or early May; nutrients will need to be added, especially if you are just starting. Organic compost can be purchased at your local nursery or you can use your own compost with local horse manure to help enrich the soil. I get manure free from the horse stables where I live and then I let it “cook” and dry over the winter so that it is ready to use by spring. (Fresh manure is too strong and will damage your plants). I add compost and manure each and every year before I plant to nourish the soil and keep it moist during the dry summer months. Worms are also a favorite and important and can be purchased at your local farmer’s market. 3) Make 12 by 12 inch sections, I use the waffle technique in my garden where I mount dirt around the edges of each sunken section to keep water during the summer months pooled in each planted area. Think of an edible waffle and use that as your architectural model. The waffle garden technique has been used for millennia here in the Southwest by the Pueblo Peoples and part of the TEK to this area. Each waffle section is usually a sunken 2-square-foot planting area surrounded by ground-level berms. These berms are several inches high and made from un-amended soil. Each depression in the waffle catches rainfall and holds water close to plant roots. 4) Plant the sprouted seeds. First, plant the corn in the center of the waffle. In about a week, when the corn plants are at least 4 inches tall (I plant four corn seeds in each hole and then thin them out as they grow), plant seven pole beans in a circle around the corn. Then in about another week at the edge of the waffle plant seven squash

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


or pumpkin seeds in a circle around the edge of the waffle below the berm. When the plants begin to grow, you will need to weed out all but a few of the sturdiest plants of each kind.

C) Seeds of Change offers open-pollinated, certified organic seeds that are heirloom and traditional vegetable, flower, and herb seeds as well as seedlings. http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/browse_category. aspx?id=1

5) As the corn and beans grow up, you will want to make sure that the beans are supported by the cornstalks, wrapping them around the corn. The squash will crawl and spread out between the waffles and around the corn and beans.

Toll Free: 888-762-7333 By Mail: Seeds of Change P.O. Box 4908 Rancho Dominguez, CA 90224

6) Tend to your garden, and, come harvest time, you’ll have lots of healthy, nutritious food. Gardening Resources:

D) The Native American Farmer’s Association, TNAFA offers permaculture classes and other programs. Contact TNAFA or Clayton Brascoupe at mailto:tnafa_org@yahoo.com or go to their website: http://www.tnafanm.org/TNAFANM/TNAFA.html

A) Ask your local farmer’s at your farmer’s market if they sell seeds for your Three Sister’s Garden. B) Native Seeds/SEARCH is a nonprofit conservation organization based in Tucson, Arizona selling wild and heirloom seeds. Their southwest traditional varieties are specially suited to the demanding environments of the arid Southwest and these seeds harbor unique adaptations to desert climates and soils.

E) Bioneers Indigeneity Program, Cara Romero http://www.bioneers.org/programs/indigenous/indigeneity-program Bioneers 1607 Paseo de Peralta, Ste. 3 Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 Phone: 505-986-0366 ext. 103 Toll Free: 877-246-6337 Fax: 505-986-1644

https://www.nativeseeds.org/index.php/store/103/2/seeds/southwesttraditional Phone: 520-622-5561 Toll Free: 866-622-5561 Fax (orders welcome): 520-622-5591 Email: info@nativeseeds.org

Lois Ellen Frank, Ph.D. is a Santa Fe, New Mexico based Native American Chef, Native American foods historian, culinary anthropologist, author and photographer. She is featured instructor focusing on Native American Foods of the Southwest Indian Nations at the Santa Fe School of Cooking, and is chef/owner, along with Native Chef Walter Whitewater of the Diné Nation of Red Mesa Cuisine.

Retail Store: 3061 N. Campbell Avenue Tucson, AZ 85719

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memoir

Salad Days

Story and Photo by Elizabeth Grant Thomas Like all of the best things that have happened in my life, it was through strange circumstances that my husband, Maikael, and I found ourselves driving onto the island of Krk one sunny spring afternoon. We had met Tonci and Mladenka, a lovely couple from Croatia about our age, purely by chance in the lobby of our Portuguese hostel a few years prior and were finally collecting on an invitation to “come visit – anytime!” They had painted a captivating picture of life on this small, rocky outpost in the Adriatic Sea, one filled with simple pleasures and local eating, and we were grateful to have the chance to experience it for ourselves. We, along with their two children, settled into their cozy home; Mladenka’s parents lived in an adjoining house, and behind it all stretched an impressive garden. An ancient stone wall lassoed a fertile tract of land, and although it was just barely April the field was already a riot of green. I was delighted when Tonci handed me a crumbling wooden crate and asked us to go out to the field to pick greens for the salad that was to accompany our luncheon. “How much?” I asked. “A lot,” he said. “We really like salads here.” We wound our way through the tight heads of lettuce that were just beginning to unfurl their frilly leaves. I pulled bright batons of scallions out of the earth. Emerald paddles of Swiss chard, marked with deep ivory veins, shot proudly out of the ground. Even the strawberries plants were dappled with delicate white flowers. The garden was a haphazard maze of vigorously healthy plants, but one that was obviously well-loved. After filling the crate we washed the greens with a garden hose on a stone table. Inside, while Tonci and Mladenka set to work on composing a salad, I sat at the kitchen table and asked them why they had such a large garden. “Well, it’s really not so much for six people,” he explained, the garden clearly a collective endeavor with his in-laws. Here, food was a shared commodity. The previous evening we had eaten fried anchovies that had been caught by Tonci’s cousin that day, and I could only imagine that, somewhere down the line, a crate of greens was in his cousin’s future. Slowly it dawned on me that this wasn’t the garden I tended at home during the summer months, a place for plucking a few token cherry tomatoes to top my salad; it was a means of providing true, year-round sustenance, in body as well as spirit. Tonci placed a gigantic bowl overflowing with the greens I had just picked between Maikael and I on the table. Our eyes widened as he placed a second, equally-large bowl between him and Mladenka. “That one’s for the two of you,” he said, nodding at our bowl, which was large enough to serve an entire family. Seeing our disbelief, Tonci laughed. “I told you we really like salad here!” Elizabeth Grant Thomas writes regularly for Edible Santa Fe and at her site elizabethgrantthomas.com , or every other Tuesday at ediblesantafe.com where she chronicles her family’s journey “back to the table”.

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destination Neighborhoods Los Ranchos de Albuquerque/North 4th

Antique Co-op 8032 4th Street NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 505.898.3311 | Carry Out: 505.897.7493 www.casabenavidez.com

An eclectic array of merchandise from 10 independent dealers. 7601 4th St. NW - Los Ranchos

Los Ranchos de Albuquerque Farm and Table

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Annapurna Dana Stringer

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Plants of the Southwest

Antique Mile Los Ranchos

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Neighborhood Guide

edible Santa Fe “loves local” and we want to introduce you to your neighborhoods and all the amazing local finds. Annapurna

Annapurna is a woman-owned vegetarian restaurant serving healing cuisine in Albuquerque since 2001 and Santa Fe since 2005. This premier organic establishment focuses on a made-from-scratch menu that is Ayurvedic (a healing system from India), vegan and glutenfree, including its own vegan and gluten-free bakery. 7520 4th St. NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 505.254.2424 chaishoppe.com

Antique Co-op

“The Antique Co-op”, was established in 1981. We are located in an area of Albuquerque known as “The Antique Mile”, In the Village of “Los Ranchos De Albuquerque”. We have over 6000 square feet of fine old and vintage (and contemporary), antiques and collectibles of all sorts. 7601 Fourth St. NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.898.7354 Open Everyday 10:00-5:00

Antique Mile

Legacy Antiques - Quality Antiques at Reasonable Prices 7809 Fourth St. NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.265.5827 Open Tues-Sat 10:00-5:00, Sun. 12:00-5:00 Antique Co-Op - Relaxed Atmosphere, Eclectic Collection 7601 Fourth St NW Los Ranchos de. Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.898.7354 Open Everyday 10:00-5:00 Antiques Consortium - Antique Addicts find their “Fixes” Here 7216 Fourth St. NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.897.7115 Open Tues-Sat 10:00-5:00

Red Rock Rose - A Country Chic Boutique of Old and New 7209 Fourth St NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.898.4488 Open Weds-Sat, 10:00-5:00 Vintage & More - Enjoy our Previously Enjoyed Treasures 7005 Fourth St NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.344.7300 Relics Antiques & More - Satisfied Customers are our Best Advertisement 6601 Fourth St. NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.369.1182 Open Tues - Sat 10:00-6:00, Sun 12:00-6:00 A Few Old Things Antiques 8833 Fourth St. NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87114 505.922.1209 The Tin Roof 8831 Fourth St. NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque NM 87114 505.554.1900

DANA STRINGER INTERIORS A full service design studio with over 20 years experience in the industry

| Consultation | Draperies (505) 883-2701 7528 4th St. NW SuiteD www.danastringerinteriors.com

Furniture

Los Ranchos Antique Mall 7901 Fourth St. NW Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87114 505.312.7729

Casa Benavidez

A North Valley tradition for 31 years, Casa de Benavidez offers guests a lush outdoor garden patio, where flavorful New Mexican food and tasty margaritas are paired with music of World Renowned Guitarist, Hector Pimentel. Open 7 days a week. 8032 4th Street NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque 505.898.3311 - www.casadebenavidez.com Carryout: Monday-Friday 6:30 am-8:00 pm. Saturday 7:00 am-8:00 pm. Sunday 7:00 am3:00 pm.Dining Room: Monday-Thursday 10:30 am-8:00 pm. Friday 9:00 am-9:00 pm. Saturday 8:00am-9:00 pm. Sunday 8:00 am-3:00 pm.

Los Ranchos

Antique Mile The Antique Mile is a group of Albuquerque Antique Stores located on North 4th (Fourth) Street in Abq’s quaint village of Los Ranchos.

Let us help you become more profitable by giving you back the one thing small business managers need-time!

Find the perfect vintage accent for your kitchen on Antique Mile.

505.872.1880 7103 4th St. N.W Bldg F Los Ranchos, NM www.notjustpayroll.com

NORTH FOURTH


A Village of Plenty Written by Sheli Armstrong • Photo by Stephanie Cameron to the Spa at the Rio. This is not a large commercial spa, but a quaint little casa that offers therapeutic massages and skin care treatments such as the anti-aging facial. The perfect stop for an hour of bliss.

Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, or as the locals simply call it, Los Ranchos, is a little bit of country in a small village situated smack-dab in the middle of town. Settled in 1750, Los Ranchos’ historic North Fourth Street boasts treasures, authentic New Mexican culture and regional and local cuisine. I love taking a day to shop, spa and dine al fresco. Who wouldn’t? And to do it all within a mile or so—divine!

Across the street sits the renowned Casa Benavidez, owned and operated by the Benavidez family. The original location was further down Fourth Street and offered take-out food only. The current location began at a small building estimated to be 130 years old. Business increased, and the location now has 35 rooms and a beautiful patio surrounded by lush vegetation, a waterfall and large koi pond. Thirty-one years later, Paul Benavidez still arrives at the crack of dawn to make the masa and his delectable sweet rolls. The restaurant only uses Benavidez family recipes.

Begin the morning at Sophia’s Place, in the most subtle, unassuming hideaway. There are 10 tables and a casual patio. The huevos rancheros are doused with rich, dark and flavorful red chile. And I mean really rich; the way it should be made. Sophia’s pancakes are, indeed, to die for! They make their own butter (which, alone, is heaven) use real maple syrup, and top it all off with fresh whipped heavy cream, honey and dried cherries or fresh fruit. Pinon butter is also an option. The local coffee—from Fat Boy Coffee Roasters—is from Cedar Crest and is very good. On weekends, you can expect a short wait, but it’s worth it.

I’m aflutter about the newly opened Farm & Table. Now open, the restaurant boasts a spacious and beautiful patio, complete with an acequia that runs out to the 10-acre field west of the building. Farmer Ric Murphey of Sol Harvest Farm cultivates his seasonal greens and produce on the north-front acre closest to the restaurant. Stay tuned for some exciting announcements from Farmer Ric, coming soon! The Farm & Table menu features local organic food and ingredients, many sourced from New Mexico farmers and ranchers, and includes several local micro brews and wines. The menu is seasonally driven and changes five times a year, plus weekly specials. Chef Ka’ainoa Ravey hails from Hawaii and offers unique flavors that melt in your mouth, such as the local fig-wood cold-smoked scallops, or the braised local pork belly with local apples and butterscotch miso. The tables are beautiful and rustic, made from reclaimed wood and timbers. Dinner is served four days a week, brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. Special events are welcome. Their philosophy: to promote health, sustainability, and the local economy; a celebration of local food and community. Slip next door to the original building, which houses the owner’s sister store, La Parada de Alameda. Rumor has it that it was a stage coach stop 200 years ago. The mercantile has beautiful gifts for the home and garden, many designed by local artists.

Head north on Fourth Street to The Antique Mile and be enamored with an abundance of eclectic shops. Antique Co-Op is one of my alltime favorite places to browse and shop for one-of-a-kind and hardto-find items and collectables. One could spend an entire day simply in this location. They offer over 6,000 square feet of space, including a hip, 1940s vintage trailer decked out with period-appropriate articles. A little secret: they have the best selection of timeless, claw foot tubs in the city, which are brought here twice a year from Nebraska. Refurbish and plunge! Annapurna’s World Vegetarian Café now has 3 locations, two located in Albuquerque. The Fourth Street location is directly across from the Antique Co-Op, and the space is colorful and comfortable, offering a private section with floor seating for small parties. Opposite is a sofa area with shelves of books providing information about the Ayurvedic diet, cooking and the benefits of healing cuisine. Carnivores beware: no meat products found here. However, you will be pleasantly surprised at what you will fall in love with. Quinoa, an ancient grain super food is served for breakfast with a medley of dried fruits, shredded coconut, savory spices, choice of milk, and sweetened with agave nectar upon request. The dessert offerings are amazing, and I love their philosophy: Ayurveda recommends dessert first. Of the six tastes, sweet digests first.

Take a trip through your own backyard and spend a day in Los Ranchos. Eat, drink, shop and relax, immersed in wonderful New Mexico culture and good taste. A native of New Mexico, Sheli Armstrong has over 20 years of experience in hospitality. She has worked in world-class resorts with Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company and was the Director of Operations for the acclaimed Geronimo Restaurant on Canyon Road and Director of Events at Los Poblanos Historic Inn and Organic Farm. She’s the owner of SoireeQ, Special Event Artistry and writes regularly for several publications. To inquire about event planning, email her at sheli@soireeq.com.

Next door, be sure to also visit Dana Stringer Interiors, renowned for custom draperies, you’ll be amazed at the number of fabulous fabric choices. Stringer also offers custom flooring, unique wallpaper, tasteful accessories and design consulting for both residential and commercial projects. Feeling tired and need to unwind? Take your tired bones and and feet

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DANA Stringer

Dana Stringer Interiors is a full service interior design showroom located in Albuquerque’s North Valley. With over 30 years combined experience, Dana Stringer and Jill Sego, strive to provide their clients with beautiful home interiors reflecting their style and personality. DSI is your source for quality furniture, draperies, reupholstery, wallpaper, flooring and accessories. 7528 4th St. NW 505.883.2701 - www.danastringerinteriors.com

DejaVu de Los Ranchos

Fabulous Consignment Boutique features high end designer handbags, Shoes & Accessories. Create or add to your own unique style or come by & let us help reinvent your look. Classic pieces to one of a kind treasures. You will find it at DEJAVU. 7015 4th St, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM - 505.345.9350

Farm to Table

Celebrate local food! Join us for dinner or weekend brunch and enjoy seasonal dishes created from scratch with ingredients sourced from local farmers and from our on-site farm. Dishes will satisfy the omnivore as well as the vegetarian! Reservations are recommended and can be made on our website. 8917 4th Street NW, Albuquerque, NM 87114, 505.503.7124 Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm | Brunch: Sat-Sun 9-2pm www.farmandtablenm.com

Not Just Payroll

As a small business-owner or as busy departments in an organization, our customers inform us that what they need the most to be successful is more time; time to concentrate their efforts on core business functions that lead to revenue generation or department goals. Allow us to use our expertise in payroll, bookkeeping, insurance and human resource management to your advantage. 7103 4th Street NW, Bldg F, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 505.872.1880 - www.notjustpayroll.com

Plants of the Southwest

Locally Grown, Native, Adaptive, and Edible Plants for Your Garden. Our goal is good homes, good food, sweet leisure. Different plants prefer different places, and when plants are growing, everywhere the soil improves; worms aerate, more rain is held in the soil, all the new leaves stop evaporation. 6680 4th St NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.344.8830 Hours: Monday-Saturday 8:00 AM to 4:30 PM. Closed Sunday. www.plantsofthesouthwest.com

Ronde Vu De Los Ranchos

Designed for time - Ronde Vu consignment shop offers designer fashions at a fraction of the price. New and consignment women’s apparel and accessories. Items often priced 50-75% off retail. Customers that want to sell consignment can make appointments on Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday. 6855 4th Street NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.344.6400 Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10-6, Sunday 12-5

Sonrisa Blooms

Sonrisa Blooms is an upscale, locally owned and operated, full service floral studio. Because of our independence from FTD, Teleflora and the like, we are able to create our own unique, artistic designs for all occasions. Using only premium flowers our clients are always impacted with an innovative & memorable creation. 6855 4th Street NW,Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.345.3777 Studio Hours: Always available by phone and by appointment. Monday: phone orders/delivery. Tues-Fri : 10:00 - 5:30. Saturday: 10:00 – 3:00. www.sonrisablooms.com

Spa at the Rio

Relax your mind. Revive your soul. Rejuvenate your body with massage. Pamper your hair and nails. Exhilarate your skin with facials. Enhance your beauty from the outside in. 8225 4th St NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque,NM 87114 505.899.6800

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


Growing Good By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher • Photo by Edite Cates

Santa Fe Produce Dept. Richelle Elder, Produce Manager with Staff

The Bountiful Alliance Truth or Consequences, NM: After being named Edible Communities’ 2011 “NonProfit of the Year”, The Bountiful Alliance (TBA) continues to power forward with The Bountiful Kitchen & Shop, a small business incubator and licensed community kitchen. It has a popular bakery, producing High Noon bread from scratch, plus other bakery delights -- with gluten-free products on the way. The shop also sells quality local crafts, body products, fresh eggs, coffees and local vegetables. Future plans: help local schools provide students with fresh, delicious, and healthy snack choices. (M-F, 12 – 5:30; Sat. 11-3) 614 McAdoo, T or C, 575/297-4119, bountifulkitchen.org.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

TBA, a unique all-volunteer community action group, lead the way for the City of T or C to dramatically upgrade to a large, staffed recycling center, opened in 2011, and now supported by a monthly TBA recycling drive – with related school education programs. The TBA’s Community Garden has nearly 100 regular gardeners, who provide for their own table, local food banks, and senior feeding programs. The city allots land and water for this popular program – and has even allowed the planting of 35 fruit and nut trees. Started over a decade ago, the Farmers’ Market helped spawn TBA and is still its most used, most popular expression, starting each year in late May until late October at picturesque Ralph Edwards Park, set on the banks of

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the Rio Grande. Nearly 40 farmers, artisans and other vendors bring their crops and crafts to market each Saturday. Regular food tastings, and “how to” seminars make the market a practical learning environment. Live music and snacks available. (Accepting SNAP cards, WIC, and senior coupons.) www.sierracountyfarmersmarket.org Anyone seeing an unmet community need in T or C (or Sierra County) can form a TBA committee, staffed with volunteers of similar interests, write a plan, ‘bootstrap’ a budget, get TBA approval, then go. A recent example: the innovative American Breast Cancer committee of the TBA offers targeted education to key medical professionals in order to sensitize them to the major, unique personal, fam-

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ily and community impacts when this diagnosis is given, and its life-changing treatment is underway. More food production projects: home garden tilling, composting practices, seed saving, tree pruning, and rain harvesting education and installations – all of these have been provided free to hundreds in T or C. Future initiatives include renewable and alternative energy, plus food security. The TBA currently houses the noted Michael Moore library and archives. The late Michael Moore is recognized -- and esteemed -- as father of American herbal medicine. The Bountiful Alliance is a 501(c ) 3 nonprofit federal tax-deductible corporation and a nonprofit corporation of the State of New Mexico.

International Year of the Coop In December of 2009, the United Nations General Assembly passed the resolution declaring 2012 the UN International Year of Co-operatives. According to the International Coop Alliance one in four Americans, and one billion people globally belong to a coop. Ban Ki-moon, UN Secretary General said “Cooperatives are a reminder to the international community that it is possible to pursue both economic viability and social responsibility.” In New Mexico we are blessed with many different types and models of coops that all support building a culturally rooted, sustainable, localized food system and economy.

La Montanita About 300 families opened La Montanita Coop in 1976 to have a natural and organic food grocer in Albuquerque. La Montanita is now owned by about 17,300 families in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Gallup. The coop has returned around $3.5 million to its members since it’s opening, offers around 1100 local products on its shelves, and operates on a value chain rather than a supply chain economic model. In more basic terms, the coop represents a way to operate a sustainable business, committed to community values, where profits are shared equally and decisions made democratically amongst the members who own it. When I walk through the produce section at the La Montanita Coop, it’s easy to take the beautiful and diverse array of seasonal fruits and veggies for granted. But my choice to shop here means more than access to local produce and organic foods. I am a

member of this coop, which means I own it. The La Montanita Coop is a consumer coop, rooted in a European cooperative business model developed in England in the 1840’s in response to the economic imbalances created by the textile industry. In the 1970’s the Western counterculture movement in the US generated a number of both worker and consumer owned natural food coops as a way to experiment with alternative social and economic models, and to create access to healthy organic food. This second wave of natural food coops has made both the local food movement and access to natural foods what we know them to be today. In the early days, like many of the second wave food coops formed in the ‘70s, La Montanita suffered from a lack of fresh produce. To remedy this Robin Seydel, the membership outreach coordinator, would visit the Albuquerque Farmer’s Market in the parking lot of the Caravan East on Saturday mornings to buy fresh fruits and veggies and connect with local farmers. She and others from the coop encouraged the regional farmers who sold at the market to bring their produce to the back door of the coop. What started as barrels of bulk organic beans and rice and sporadic produce in a spare storefront blossomed into a top-notch natural food stores with exemplary offerings of local and organic foods. Beyond the grocery store, La Montanita has worked hard to put its economic power and business model to work in New Mexico. It has helped other communities like Los Alamos form their own natural food coops, developed a small agricultural producer loan fund, trained veterans how to farm, put over 250 volunteers to work in the community at large, and built a distribution center to help support the growth and sustainability of midsized agricultural businesses in New Mexico. To learn how to become a member, find a store location near you, or get involved visit www.lamontanita.coop.

High Peaks, Deep Roots Farmers’ Cooperative Named for the Truchas Peaks, some of the highest in the state, and 400 years of cultural roots, the High Peaks, Deep Roots Farmers’ Cooperative has planted seeds for its second season this spring. This coop is one of three organized by CODECE or the Cooperative Development Center Of New Mexico. In the fall of 2010, Arturo Sandoval organized

CODECE, a project of the Center of Southwest Culture, created to support sustainable lifestyles for New Mexicans. The CODECE coop model is rooted in the community land based practices of the acequia and land grant systems established by the Spanish in New Mexico in the 1700’s. Working with residents of Truchas, CODECE is developing three types of coops— organic farming, eco-tourism, and housing. These three coops will collaborate on a number of projects to help build more robust and sustainable income streams for the families involved. Sandoval says that the beauty of a coop, and the reason it is a more effective model for rural economic development, is that is does not depend on the success of a single person, rather a group shares the investment and its rewards. Operating under this philosophy, High Peaks is a worker owned coop of nine farmers moving into their second year growing on the Truchas land grant. Working with farmer Don Bustos of nearby Santa Cruz Farms, High Peaks has built two cold frames, expanded from one to four acres, and developed a low water drip system fed from acequia water to irrigate their crops. This year they hope to sell their produce at farmers markets in Santa Fe, Pojoaque, Los Alamos, and Taos, and are working with the Agri-Cultura Network to access wholesale markets. Looking to the future, the CODECE ecotourism and agriculture coops will join forces to bring a wide variety of culturally rooted activities for visitors to the area. They have received a USDA grant to purchase a catering truck to add value to the crops they grow and to share the culinary traditions of northern New Mexico. Tourists will be able to take guided hikes in the Truchas wilderness to learn about traditional medicinal herbs and other native plants, then dine on organic, roots New Mexico cuisine like cabrito, calabacitas, frijoles, chicos, and tortillas, all prepared field to fork in their facilities. To learn more about High Peaks, Deep Roots visit cooperativedevelopmentcenter.org or highpeaksdeeproots.com. To learn more about the international year of the coop go to www.2012.coop. To read more New Mexico coop stories visit our website throughout 2012, ediblesantafe.com.


Custom Blends:

New Mexico’s Enchanting Brews Story by Andrea Feucht • Photos by Sergio Salvador

What is craft beer, exactly? If you are the kind of person who revels in a weekly (or nightly) glass of foamy-headed bubbles, you are not alone – most Americans love their beer, from amber-hued big name brands to brews with complicated flavors and higher price tags. This latter group of specialty beers, produced by tiny companies, is called craft beer, and there are a few hallmarks to distinguish it from the rest of the pack: • Brewed by small facilities; ownership less than 25% by a larger beverage company • Known for traditional and robust flavors, typically have predominantly malt beers • Local or regional distribution with strong community ties, often including a loyal following of fans and beer geeks that interact with the brewer directly Craft beer styles are not regimented but as a general practice they include less pilsner (the predominant style of mass-produced light tasting beers), and a heck of a lot more ingenuity. Local flavor infusions are common: in New Mexico you’ll see wildflower honey, pinon, and even green chile.

Why should I drink this craft stuff - isn’t beer just beer? Everyday large-producer beer can be seen as a go-to drink when you’d like a simple beverage with your meal, or a quenching cold one in the heat of summer. It can be hard to describe mass market beer without sounding all high and mighty, but the audience for each kind of beer is as variable as the companies that produce it. There is absolutely nothing wrong with enjoying a bar of Hershey’s (and I do), but it is a wholly different animal than Chocolate Cartel’s 90% dark chocolate. To the fans of craft beer, just like the fans of dark chocolate or locally roasted coffee, it is often seen as an “everyday indulgence”. It is certainly more expensive than the de facto product, but worth the time and appreciation.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

Many brewers have advice for craft newbies, including Brady McKeown of Il Vicino, who recommends trying a tasting sampler to see what kinds of flavors the drinker likes best – hoppy and bitter or malty and toasted? Most tap rooms offer tastes of any beer you’re thinking about, and some will sell the tasting experience itself instead of trying to rope you into a whole pint. From there, Brady says that you could point the drinker towards straightup bitter (IPA), or mellow and botanical like a Witbier. One of my recent craft picks for bright flavors and little hops is the Imperial White at Nexus – citrusy and tinged with coriander for a near-cocktail experience without the cocktail price tag. Like wine, craft beers vary in their flavors and appropriate serving temperature and have preferred glass shapes for drinking. For example, you might serve American Strong Ale in a goblet or a brandy snifter, but normal pint glasses are great to show off the head and color of a Witbier. Even champagne flutes are used – they’re perfect for the delicate carbonation of Weizenbocks. Beer pairings are employed to show off flavors and promote the appreciation of craft beer to a wine-accustomed crowd, who are often shocked to find out that the complexity of craft beer rivals that of fine wines. In some ways, beer is even easier to assess for flavors, as brewers love to talk about the ingredients they’ve used in each beer, along with the hop origin and resulting bitterness level and alcohol content. Try to find that level of detail on your next bottle of wine. It seems that the term “beer geek” is proudly earned – these folks really love their data and how it can help improve the product.

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Trends Craft beer is finding its groove nationally and statewide as more people are appreciating better beer, not just “any beer”, and is seeing growth of 15% annually versus negative 1% for overall beer sales. It is still a small percentage of the overall beer market, but hard to ignore at a value of $8 billion dollars per year. Those $8 billion are slowly increasing as a result of bringing new drinkers into the fold, often through a first taste at a gastropub or tap room. In New Mexico, we’re certainly feeling – and drinking up - that rise in interest, with at least 30 breweries in 2012 compared to about a dozen less than a decade ago. Existing breweries are expanding production and looking for ways to keep growing to meet demand. To assist in that growth, we have a statewide association called the New Mexico Brewers Guild that meets periodically to discuss topics as wide ranging as legal issues to the latest seasonal beers in the works. It also gives the brewers a chance to catch up and gossip, of course. Chris Goblet, a long-time craft enthusiast with considerable PR chops, has recently taken over operations at the guild; his appreciation is coupled with a marketer’s vision. 2012 has already seen one event – Winterbrew in Santa Fe – launched and executed to an enthusiastic reception. There’s much more in the works for the guild and Chris in coming months – stay up to date on state breweries, events, and the guild itself on their site: http://nmbeer.org On the consumer and enthusiast side, you can’t read a social event calendar without noticing a meetup for the Albuquerque Beer Geeks or the Dukes of Ale. Home brewers are everywhere, too – those that like to craft their own flavors and styles, whether or not they share with friends or hope to make it into something larger. One example of a home brewer on the cusp is the Deranged Dukes, headed by Tim Woodward and his “co-brewer” Darren. They’ve been active members of

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local home brew groups and decided that they have what it takes, based on periodic get-togethers with friends where new brews are sampled and the guys get to hear what works and what doesn’t. They currently make at least seven ales, but the lineup is ever-changing as they hone in on what will working in their end goal, that of “making sudsy deliciousness for the masses”, as Tim says. It won’t be a matter of months, but perhaps in a year or two Albuquerque will welcome a new entry into the craft producers here in town. Watch the progress on their site: www.derangeddukes.com and wish them luck!

Meet Your Brewers: Crafters of Your Next Favorite Local Beer Talk with local brewers and you’ll notice the unstoppable passion – many approach what they do with the enthusiasm of the devout. Let me give you glimpses of a few of the New Mexican brewers and how they see the evolution of the craft. Nico is the man to speak with to hear how things have changed in the last 15 years. His place, Turtle Mountain Brewing Company, in Rio Rancho is about to turn 13 and each and every year has been both exciting and loaded with potential growth. He hosts many of the local meetings for both the New Mexico Brewers’ Guild as well as homebrew groups (another subset of the beer culture with just as many gushing devotees, but that’s another story). His own beers are crafted under the direction of Mark Matheson (the Matheson of Matheson Winery) and well-regarded all over the state. Turtle Mountain Brewing Company, 905 36th Place SE, Rio Rancho, (505) 9949497; www.turtlemountainbrewing.com The oldest and largest New Mexico craft company, Santa Fe Brewing Company has awards aplenty and a fiercely loyal general manager in Alana Jones. She is excited for the things SFBC is doing under brewer Ty Levis, from continuing to enlarge their footprint to staying fresh in the eyes of new aficionados. One of their success stories is in putting their IPA in a bright yellow can

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


out there for several years. But according to Justin, pilsner offers a view into the skillset of the brewer – its sparse profile cannot hide flaws and the low-alcohol content makes it a fun beer to drink, not just slowly sip. Chama River Brewing Company, 4939 Pan American Freeway, Albuquerque, (505) 342-1800; www.chamariverbrewery.com

adorned by little more than a red Zia – it sells like hotcakes to buyers who love the can’s design as well as those that already like it and know to hone in on that bright package. Their Java Stout has done well enough to make the permanent rotation rather than popping in as a seasonal offering, but it is the State Pen Porter that usually perks up the ears and taste buds of any craft-o-holic. For the neophyte craft drinkers, Alana suggests their Nut Brown for its mellow profile and low hoppiness (which typically means low bitter qualities). Her favorite drinking beer? Sierra Nevada, without a doubt. Santa Fe Brewing Company, main tap room at 35 Fire Place, Santa Fe, (505) 424-3333; www.santafebrewing.com

Much in the way of beer bounty in this state has come from the talents at Chama River Brewery: they created the most exciting new brewery in the last five years in downtown Albuquerque and called it Marble, after the street name where they set up shop. Awards started piling up and I doubt there is a beer drinker in the city that hasn’t heard of Marble and their stuff. From there what I can only guess is a dream team of graphic design and branding set about to make Marble’s delicious brews well known and easy to spot. Tap pulls are topped with golf ball sized glass orbs, the website’s logo is sparse and lovely, and each beer variety is identified with another refined yet colorful sphere. Of course it matters that the beers are damn good, but once you know you love the brew, the brand is easy to spot at any bar that carries it. Marble Brewery, 111 Marble NW, Albuquerque (505) 243-2739; new Santa Fe tap room at 60 E San Francisco Street, Santa Fe, (505) 9893565; www.marblebrewery.com

Justin Hamilton is tending the well-known varieties at Chama River Brewing Company after learning the ropes from some of the best: first at Chama River with Daniel Jaramillo (currently of Marble Brewery), then Ted Rice when Marble Brewery first opened, and in the same time frame with Jeff Erway at Chama River (now at his own La Cumbre). That’s like learning physics from Newton, Galileo and Einstein. Justin’s award-winning brew is called 3 Dog Night and I expect we will hear more from him in coming years. My conversation with him seemed to ooze excitement for the things he has learned and what he’s seeing in the current craft scene. When it comes to drinkers and their tastes, he sees the so-called “third wave” towards pilsner style beers. Many craft drinkers start their craft quaffing with stout, then move to IPA and hang

When I posed the query to local brewers, “what is the local beer you like to drink that’s not your own?” I heard a lot of Rod’s Best Bitter from Second Street Brewery. It is common that brewers like to drink light and clean when off-duty – just like chefs tend to eat veggies or comfort foods when cooking alone – and that makes pilsners one of the other favorite varieties. But when a light pilsner is “too” light and not interesting enough, they like to appreciate a glass of Rod’s Best Bitter with its two hops and rich malty flavor. Rod’s joins a large lineup of beers under brewmaster Rod Tweet, with over 30 varieties produced and more than 2 million pints sold in 16 years, all of them brewed in small 30 gallon tanks. When you visit one of Second Street locations, you’ll find a revolving on-tap list of 8-10 beers, which always runs the gamut from fruity and light to the hard bitters and IPAs. Both locations also feature a full menu for your hungry stomach with enough variety to ensure creative beer pairings and the stamina to try more than one. Second Street’s website banner reads, “Beer has food value, but food has no beer value.” When you are into craft beer as much as these folks, that’s a sentiment everyone can agree on. Second Street Brewery, 1814 2nd Street, Santa Fe, (505) 982-3030; and at the Railyard: 1607 Paseo de Peralta #10, Santa Fe, (505) 989-3278; www.secondstreetbrewery.com Spring of 2011 graduated one new former home brewer to the land of professionalism: Matt Mikesell and his Bad Ass Brewery on Montgomery (actually in a strip-mall, one of those locations that can often signal great ethnic eats due to low overhead). Mike learned brewing after a friend got him into drinking craft beers over two decades ago. His tap room features munchies to go along with a long list of current brews, from the fruity and light to the hard-hitting IPAs. His beer names are reminiscent of rock climbing routes – those climber boys love snarky jokes – with gems like Torn Kilt Scotch and Girly Drink Ale, to name just a few of the tamer monikers. Mike is also

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doing a laudable thing to help spread the growth of the market – he’s honoring a home brewer every month for their skill and introducing their beer to other craft geeks. That’s a great way to build exposure both for the upcoming brewer as well as the craft of craft. Bad Ass Brewery and Tap Room, 9800 Montgomery Blvd NE Suite 7, Albuquerque, (505) 918-2337; www.babbrewery.com Brady McKeown of Il Vicino was thrilled to hear that my first craft brand recognition in Albuquerque was hearing friends talk about their love of Il Vicino IPA. He’s been brewing most of his life and has been with Il Vicino since they started up in 1995. Graciously, he offered tips on breaking into a craft beer appreciation: start with mellow red ales – they’re friendly to many people’s palates and therefore a nice introductory yet flavorful glass. Brady’s well-regarded here in town and for good reason – Il Vicino has seen this wave of craft appreciation from its tiny swell beginnings, and with their newest addition of a tap room in the Northeast Heights, they’ll keep growing right along with everyone else. That new outlet: Il Vicino Canteen, 2381 Aztec, Albuquerque, (505) 881-2737; www.ilvicino.com/brewery

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2012 Craft in New Mexico: Excitement Abounds At the New Mexico Craft Brewers Guild meeting, I had the chance to speak with many brewers, assistants, and fans – every single one of them passionate and willing to talk my ear off. Charlie Papazian was on hand to discuss the state of national craft brewing and offer some advice regarding legal thorns that can come up when a state is just getting its stride with small brewers. Things like distribution, where to sell, even growlers (take-home 64oz bottles of beer) can be contentious depending on your neighborhood and local codes. If all of these things can come together, craft will do well. One of the last folks I talked with is Jim Stearns, a brewer in training at Nexus and a fantastic point of view to query about the scene. He knows his brews but is not as protective as many of the owners can be (for good reason). He loves what is going on at La Cumbre, and encourages folks to stop by the Taos Ale House for distinctive beers that seem to taste better just because you’re out on the road. I definitely agree.

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edible

SANTA FE

®

Craft Brewers Trail 13 29

12

Farmington 23

24

Abiquiu 31 17

Eagle Nest

Taos

32

Embudo

Pojaque Santa Fe 19-20 30 26 10

18

Rio Rancho

21

Corrales

16

Albuquerque

Moriarty

1-6 27 28 7 8

Los Lunas 15

22

Socorro

Artesia 25

11

Breweries

ABQ Brewpub Marble Brewery Chama River Brewing Co. Il Vicino Brewing Co. Canteen Kelly’s Brewepub Nexus Brewing Co. Bad Ass Brewery La Cumbre Brewing The Wellhead Corrales Bistro Brewery Mimbres Valley Brewing Comanche Creek Brewing Co.

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Las Cruces

Deming

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

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13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.

Restaurants/Brew Pubs

Tap Rooms

Three Rivers High Desert Tractor Brewing Co. Rio Grande Brewing Co. & Sierra Blanca Blue Heron Brewing Turtle Mountain Brewing Co. Blue Corn Café & Brewery Downtown and Southside 20. Second Street Brewery & Second St @ the Railyard 21. Santa Fe Brewing Co.

22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32.

Home Brewers Supply

Socorro Springs Brewing Co. Eske’s Brew Pub Taos Ale House De La Vega’s Pecan Grill and Brewery Marble Brewery Tap Room Southwest Grape and Grain Victor’s Grape Arbor Ubru Home Brewing Santa Fe Homebrewing Supply Abbey Beverage Co. Taos Inn Adobe Bar


Now available at a retailer near you and on tap at ABQ Brew Pub

Craft Brewers Trail your guide TO CRAFT BREWERS ACROSS THE STATE New Mexico is clearly on the map as a contender in the craft brew conversation. edible Santa Fe wants to introduce the world to our craft brewers with this Trail Map. This guide will also appear on our just launched, “We Love Local” App so you can have access at your finger tips any time you have a thirst for a “cold one”.

Alien Imperial Stout - 8.3% ABV www.sierrablancabrewery.com Moriarty, New Mexico

Blue Corn Café & Brewery Downtown and Southside www.bluecorncafe.com Award winning hand-crafted microbrews. Their beer is brewed daily on premise and they specialize in using several varieties of international hops and local ingredients. They have six house beers that are always on tap and two to three rotating taps with Brewmaster specials. Southside: 4056 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe, NM - 505.438.1800 Downtown: 133 W Water St., Santa Fe, NM - 505.984.1800 Chama River Brewing Co. www.chamariverbrewery.com Is the only full service brewery in Albuquerque. Their line up offers six house beers and variety of seasonal and specialty beers. Head Brewer, Justin Hamilton’s hand-crafted ales and lagers have brought home several awards from the American Beer Cup and the Great American Beer Festival. 106 2nd St. SW, Albuquerque, NM - 505.842.8329 Il Vicino Brewing Co. Canteen www.ilvicino.com/brewery The IVB Canteen: brewery, restaurant and community - produces award-winning micro-brews, and boasts an exceptional food menu while remaining true to its’ roots as a brewery tap-room. Unpretentious, exciting and innovative the Canteen is the perfect place to discover a new passion! 2381 Aztec, Albuquerque, NM 87107 - 505.881.2737 Marble Brewery Albuquerque & Marble Brewery Tap Room Santa Fe www.marblebrewery.com Marble Brewery’s mission is to provide bold, hand-crafted ales and lagers. Marble is a production brewery with an on-site tasting room and outdoor beer garden located in downtown Albuquerque. Marble Brewery offers eight house beers and a variety of seasonal styles in draft and bottle. Albuquerque - 111 Marble Ave., NW, Albuquerque - 505.243.2739 Santa Fe - 60 E. San Francisco St., Ste. 313, Santa Fe -505.989.3565 Santa Fe Brewing Co. www.santafebrewing.com New Mexico’s first and largest brewery has been churning out local favorites such as Santa Fe Pale Ale, State Pen Porter and Chicken Killer Barleywine for over 20 years. Take a tour, enjoy a cold one on the patio, a 6-pack to-go, or grab a keg for your next party. 35 Fire Place, Santa Fe NM 87508 rio Grande Brewing CO. & sierra blanca brewing CO. www.sierrablancabrewery.com Sierra Blanca Brewing Company, owner of Rio Grande Brewing Company is proud to announce the opening of RIO GRANDE BREW PUB AND GRILL in the Albuquerque International Airport the 1st week of June. Stop by and enjoy a frothy brew while you await your plane! 1016 Industrial Rd., PO Box 3567, Moriarty, NM 87035 - 505.832.BEER

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


Craft Brewers Trail Guide Second Street brewery www.secondstreetbrewery.com The Second Street brewery staff works hard to present a neighborhood brewpub that is welcoming to all local residents and visitors alike. Here you can enjoy a fine handcrafted ale or lager with the delightful company of others….a place where truly everyone knows your name. 1814 Second Street, Santa Fe, 87505 - 505.982.3030 1607 Paseo De Peralta (In the Santa Fe Farmer’s Mkt Building), Santa Fe, NM 87501 - 505.989.3278

15. Tractor Brewing – Los Lunas www.getplowed.com

Turtle Mountain Brewing Co. www.turtlemountainbrewing.com We have been Rio Rancho’s neighborhood brewpub since 1999. Come and try our award winning beers and the best wood-fired pizza in Albuquerque. 905 36th Place SE Rio Rancho NM 87124 505.994.9497

19. Blue Corn Café & Brewery Downtown and Southside – Santa Fe www.bluecorncafe.com

Taos Inn Adobe Bar www.adobebar.com The Historic Taos Inn, where a diverse and colorful mix of people come to enjoy the best Margaritas, craft beers & live music in New Mexico. Monday nights feature the Beer Snob Club with tastings and seminars. Join free and learn about new craft beers and get 10% off all purchases. 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos, New Mexico 87571 - 575.758.2233

22. Socorro Springs Brewing Company – Socorro www.socorrosprings.com

16. Rio Grande Brewery & Sierra Blanca – Moriarty www.sierrablancabrewery.com 17. Blue Heron Brewing – Embudo www.blueheronbrews.com 18. Turtle Mountain Brewing Co. – Albuquerque www.turtlemountainbrewing.com

20. Second Street Brewery & Second St @ the Railyard – Santa Fe www.secondstreetbrewery.com 21. Santa Fe Brewing Co. – Santa Fe www.santafebrewing.com

23. Eske’s – Taos www.eskesbrewpub.com 24. Taos Ale House – Taos www.taosalehouse.com 25. De La Vega’s Pecan Grill and Brewery – Las Cruces www.pecangrill.com

Trail Map Reference Guide 1.

ABQ Brewpub - Albuquerque www.sierrablancabrewery.com

2.

Marble Brewery – Albuquerque www.marblebrewery.com

3.

Chama River Brewing Co. – Albuquerque www.chamariverbrewery.com

4.

Il Vicino Brewing Co. Canteen – Albuquerque www.ilvicino.com/brewery

5.

26. Marble Brewery Tap Room – Santa Fe www.marblebrewery.com 27. Southwest Grape and Grain – Albuquerque www.southwestgrapeandgrain.com 28. Victor’s Grape Arbor - Albuquerque www.victorsgrapearbor.com 29. Ubru Home Brewing – Farmington www.ubruathome.com 30. Santa Fe Homebrewing Supply – Santa Fe www.santafehomebrew.com

Kelly’s Brewpub – Albuquerque www.kellysbrewpub.com

6.

Nexus Brewing Co. – Albuquerque www.nexusbrewery.com

7.

Bad Ass Brewery – Albuquerque www.babbrewery.com

8.

La Cumbre Brewing – Albuquerque www.lacumbrebrewing.com

9.

The Wellhead – Artesia www.thewellhead.com

31. Abbey Beverage Company - Abiquiu www.abbeybeveragecompany.com 32. Taos Inn Adobe Bar www.adobebar.com

10. Corrales Bistro Brewery - Corrales www.cbbistro.com 11. Mimbres Valley Brewing – Deming www.demingbrew.com 12. Comanche Creek Brewing Company – Eagle Nest www.comanchecreekbrewingco.com 13. Three Rivers – Farmington www.threeriversbrewery.com 14. High Desert Brewing Co. – Las Cruces www.highdesertbrewingco.com

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edible Santa Fe 路 Spring 2012


edible enterprise

Growing Hops By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher Marble, 2nd Street, Blue Corn, Tractor, and Chama River for seasonal fall brews. High Desert Brewery in Las Cruces tops the list purchasing nearly a quarter of De Smet’s harvest a year.

While chatting with Mike De Smet, a third generation Bosque Farms farmer, he joked about taking notes in the dust on his tractor while doing business with one hand on his cell phone, and farming with the other. De Smet is an enterprising and enthusiastic young farmer who has ventured into uncharted territory in New Mexico growing—hops.

In spite of the challenges, De Smet clearly loves pioneering a new specialty crop for New Mexico. This year he is testing three new varieties Columbus, Nugget, and Centennial, in hopes of capturing more of the local market. When asked what he loves most about growing hops, he responded unequivocally—the people and the beer. While his primary customers are local breweries, every August he hosts a pick your own day for homebrew enthusiasts. He says these beer makers enter his hops field like kids in a candy store, and always come back several weeks later bearing gifts of unusual and delicious beers.

If you’ve ever taken a walk along a stream through Jemez or Pecos meadows in August, you may have noticed a pungent, skunky smell. While most might attribute this to the presence of a notorious black and white stinker, a keen nose would lead you to vines, tangled in the shrubbery, laden with pale green-gold buds. Humulus lupulus, more commonly known as hops, grows wild in New Mexico, but until recently, was never cultivated commercially.

Mike De Smet can be reached at 505-250-2881

Five years ago De Smet sat at the bar with his friend Herb Pluemer, owner of the Tractor Brewery in Los Lunas, and hatched a plan to convert his smallest alfalfa field, five acres, to hops production. He decided to cultivate Cascade hops, a popular variety commonly used by many breweries, which fairs well in hot dry New Mexico summers. What seemed at the time like a lucrative and easy project turned into something far more complicated. De Smet faced two major challenges lack of availability of equipment, and a problematic market place.

Humulus, Cannabaceae Humulus Iupulus L., Common Hop The common hop has been used historically by a number of tribes for a variety of treatments. Most commonly hop was used as a medicine and for its medicinal qualities. For gastrointestinal disorders is was used by the Dakota tribe. It was also used by the Cherokee Nation to alleviate pain and produce sleep. A number of tribes used the hop as a toothache remedy, as a sedative, for insomnia, and for “nervousness.” The Navajo in Ramah, New Mexico used it as a cough medicinal for a bad cough. It has strong medicinal qualities and has been historically always been used as a medicinal plant.

Hops, a perennial crop, is planted as a rhizome, then trained up eighteen foot trellises. Each of De Smet’s 14,000 plants produces about 1/8 lb of hops flowers, the part used to add pungent and bitter flavors to beer. His first season, he researched commercial harvesters to pick the hops and separate them from the leafy part of the plant—the least expensive used model was a $250,000, and needed to be fixed. He decided he would have to build his own. Both pride and relief ring in his voice as he explains how harvesting took nearly five weeks with the first model he made, but now he can gather the 2000 lbs he grows annually in about five days.

It also has been an ingredient that was used in cooking. The Algonquin from Quebec used it in breads and cakes and to make bread. The Lakota found it to be helpful to make bread swell and used it in their bread making. The fruit was also used as a cooking agent, often as a substitute for baking soda by the Ojibwa. The Apache, both the Chiricahua and Mescalero tribes used hops by boiling them to flavor wheat flour and potatoes. The flower was used to flavor drinks and make them stronger. The Navajo (Diné) used hops in cooking for a variety of uses.

While he has worked out many of the technical kinks of growing hops on a relatively small commercial scale, selling the entire crop remains a challenge. The price of hops has fluctuated dramatically over the past five years. While alfalfa gets around 10 cents a pound, hops, in recent years, have fetched as much as $30 a pound. The current price of commercial hops coming from the Pacific Northwest is around $2.50 a pound—today, De Smet sells his for about $8 a pound, making it hard to compete. In spite of significant partnerships with many of New Mexico’s breweries, he still struggles to find a local brewery committed to buying his hops in larger quantities on a regular basis. De Smet sells his hops to many New Mexico breweries including

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

Now used as a component to make delicious beer, hops has been used as a traditional medicinal and food plant for millennia. Lois Ellen Frank

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do it yourself

Guide to Your First Homebrew Story and Photos by Lauren Duffy Lastowka

What you need You can’t brew beer just with what’s sitting around in your kitchen. There are a few tools you’ll need to get started. Let me forewarn you that homebrewing isn’t the cheapest hobby—it can take about a $100 investment for your basic tools—although if you’re handy you can make, barter or borrow much of the equipment you’ll need. In fact, if you’ve never brewed before, I’d recommend borrowing a friend’s equipment for your first time, or even finding a seasoned homebrewer who’s happy to invite you over on a brew day.

Equipment The easiest way to get your basic equipment is to buy a starter kit, sold at many homebrew stores. Here’s what comes in most kits, and what you’ll need if you build or borrow equipment: • Two six-gallon food-grade buckets, glass carboys or plastic fermenters, with lids (for fermenting) • One airlock (for keeping your fermenter sanitary) • One large bucket or pot (for sanitizing; another six-gallon food-grade bucket works perfectly)

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

• One four- to six-gallon pot (for boiling the wort) • A long-handled spoon, long enough to reach the bottom of your pot • A thermometer that spans 80–200 degrees Fahrenheit • A hydrometer (a device that measures specific gravity, recommended) • A copper wort chiller (recommended)

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• Sanitizing solution (I like an iodine solution called Iodophor, but you can also use bleach) • Cleaning solution (I like PBW, a biodegradable cleaning powder designed for brewers, but dish soap will work) • 48 12-ounce bottles, cleaned and dried • 48 bottle caps • A bottle capper

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Ingredients

Step 1: Set up and sanitize.

Every homebrew recipe will vary in the amount and type of each of the basic beer ingredients. You can find many starter recipes at most homebrew stores, as well as on homebrewing forums online. No matter what recipe you are following, here are the basic ingredients you will need for an extract beer:

If you’re working in the kitchen, clear plenty of counter space. Make sure surfaces are clean and sanitary. I often lay down a clean towel near the stove, providing a clean space to rest the pot lid, thermometer and spoon while brewing.

Water. New Mexico tap water is what the professional breweries use around here. You can use water straight from the tap for most recipes you’ll brew. Malt or malt extract. There are two ways to homebrew: extracting sugar by steeping malted barley in hot water, or using a shortcut route and using pre-extracted sugar syrup. While the former allows for a wider range of flavors and more control over the quality of the finished beer, the latter is easier, quicker and requires less equipment. Using extract is a good starting point for your first beer, as working with grain requires considerably more equipment. Most homebrew stores sell liquid or dried malt extract. Whichever recipe you choose to follow will tell you which kind and how much to use. Hops. Ah, hops. The most celebrated ingredient of New Mexico beer. Hops are actually flowers that look like small green pinecones. Fresh hops are hard to come by as they are only available seasonally (and the majority of each year’s crop are often sold to professional brewers). You can find dried whole hops, but I recommend using hop pellets for most recipes. These are frozen, pressed hops, and are the most effective way to convey both flavor and bitterness to a beer. Yeast. Choosing the proper yeast strain is essential to the quality of your finished beer. The type of brew you are making will determine the type of yeast you will use, How to Home Brew Magazine has a great chart: http://www.byo.com/resources/yeast. For our purposes here, we suggest using White Labs yeast, available at any homebrew store, but check your recipe for which yeast strain to use.

What you do Once you have your equipment and ingredients, it’s time to get brewing! Most homebrew recipes will yield five gallons, or 48 12-oz bottles, of beer. Find a recipe you like, then follow these steps on your brew day. While these steps may seem long, they are filled with detail. In essence, to make beer, you only really need to do four things: make wort, boil the wort, chill the wort and toss in your yeast. If you need a little more detail, read on.

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Make sure all of your equipment is clean and dry. If you haven’t used things in a while, or if they are straight from the store, give them a good wash before you go any farther. Sanitize everything. Sanitizing is one of the most important—and best—habits you can form as a homebrewer. I like to fill a large bucket with an iodine solution, and then keep all my equipment in the bucket when not in use—spoon, thermometer, hydrometer, airlock, etc. It’s best to err on the safe side—anything that will touch your beer should be sanitized first. You also need to sanitize your fermenter. This is where you will put the wort at the end of the brewing process. You can fill the fermenter with the same iodine solution and let it sit while you work on your beer. Finally, measure out two to three gallons of water and put them in the fridge to chill. You’ll need these later. I also highly recommend preparing some snacks and opening up a beer. (Just keep these a little ways away from your brewing surfaces.) Having a few friends by your side never hurts, either.

Step 2: Make your wort. Wort is a solution of water and sugar that has been extracted from barley. The sugar is what the yeast will feed on to produce alcohol. Making wort when you are extract brewing is a simple process—you simply combine the malt extract with water. If your recipe calls for a particular amount of water, follow that. Otherwise, bring three gallons of water to a boil, remove it from the heat and stir in the extract until dissolved. Now you have wort!

Step 3: Boil your wort. In most beer recipes, the wort is boiled for at least 60 minutes. Set your brew pot over a high flame and allow it to come to a boil. Keep an eye on the pot at first, and adjust the heat if the wort looks like it might to boil over. Once the boil is steady, set a timer and let it go for 60 minutes. (At this stage, refreshments really come in handy.) Take a look at your hop profile, and be sure to add hops when needed (see Step 4).

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


do it yourself Step 4: Add hops.

Step 6: Transfer the beer.

You’ll add hops at various stages throughout the boil. Hops added early on provide stability and bitterness, while hops added later in the process provide aroma and flavor. Most beer recipes call for hops both at the beginning and end, for a balance of the two. Most homebrew recipes specify the amounts of hops to use as well as the time to add them to the wort. Follow your recipe, and know that each time you toss hops into the pot, you are adding to the flavor and complexity of your beer.

First, empty the sanitizing solution from your fermenter. It’s a good idea to pour some sanitizer on the inside of the lid of the fermenter as well. Then, place the bucket on a towel on the floor. If you did not use a wort chiller, pour at least a gallon of cold water into the fermenter. This will help chill the wort. Otherwise, you can pour the wort directly in the fermenter. Carefully, and with two people if possible, pour the wort into the bucket, being careful not to spill any. You want to pour quickly but avoid splashing or spilling.

Step 5: Chill your wort. Once you reach the 60-minute mark, your wort is just about ready to become beer. But if you add living yeast to 212° liquid, it will die. So you have to get the wort down to a temperature that is ideal for the yeast. And you want to do this as quickly as possible: Just like food, wort will invite bacteria and yeasts if left out at unsafe temperatures. So you want to bring your wort down to a temperature below the “danger zone” as quickly as possible. There are two main ways to chill your wort. One is to simply add cold water, to offset the temperature. This is a viable solution if you have used three gallons or less to make your wort, since you will need to top off the water to make five gallons anyway. You can do this in steps 6 and 7, while you transfer your beer. Another option is to use a wort chiller—a wound copper coil that you can immerse in your wort and run cold water through to chill the hot liquid. If you use a wort chiller, follow the directions on the package, make sure it is sanitized and make sure the connections don’t leak. Then, create a whirlpool in the wort by stirring in one direction with the spoon. Submerge the copper coil in the pot, turn the water on slowly and let it run for 20 minutes or so, until your wort has cooled. You can keep a thermometer to help you see when the wort reaches 70–85°. Note: Once you finish the boil, you want everything that touches the beer to be completely sanitary. (Prior to this point, the boiling sanitized the wort).

Step 7: Top off your beer. Many homebrew recipes call for brewing with three gallons of water, because this amount fits easily in a large pot. But most recipes make five gallons of beer. Once the wort is in the fermenter, you can top it off with cool water to reach the five-gallon mark. This also helps bring the wort down a few more degrees.

Step 8: Pitch your yeast. Your wort is now a prime environment for your yeast to thrive. Slowly turn the yeast vial upside down a few times to integrate all the yeast into the liquid. There should not be any clumps. Then open the vial, pour the contents into the wort and place the lid on your fermentation bucket. “Rock the baby” by tipping the bucket back and forth a few times. This helps distribute the yeast throughout the wort.


Step 9: Prepare the airlock and store. You’re almost done for the day! Put the airlock on the bucket and move the bucket to the best temperature-controlled place in your house. Ideally, you want the temperature to be between 60 and 75 for the next 10 days. Keep it away from pets, children, and any clumsy houseguests. I like to place a towel beneath the bucket, in case of an overflow. Fill the airlock with water or vodka (which can help keep your beer sanitary, but isn’t necessary) and replace the lid.

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Step 10: Let the yeast do its work. Now, simply let the beer sit for 10 days. You should see the airlock bubbling after a day or two—this is a sign the yeast is working, it is converting the sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide. After a few more days, the bubbling should stop. You’ll want to let your beer sit for about 7–10 days total.

Step 11: Bottle.

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If your airlock has bubbled and then stopped after 10 days, you have beer! It’s now time to get that beer into bottles so you can enjoy it. You’ll need about 48 12-ounce bottles or 24 22-ounce bottles for your beer, and the same number of bottle caps. Sanitize the bottles by running them on a high heat setting in the dishwasher or submerging them in a sanitizing solution. Try to sanitize your bottles a day or two ahead of time, to allow them to completely dry. Before you bottle, you’ll want to clean and sanitize all your equipment again. Sanitize the bottle caps by boiling them in a pot of water for 5 minutes. When your equipment is ready, carefully pour your beer into your bottling bucket. If your bucket has a spigot, you can attach a bottle filler and let gravity fill your bottles. If not, you will need to siphon your beer and fill the bottles through plastic tubing. But first, you have to carbonate your beer. To do so, you’ll add a bit more sugar to your bottling bucket. This will allow yeast still in the beer to produce just enough carbon dioxide to make your beer bubbly. Heat ¾ cup of corn sugar (also called priming sugar, available at most homebrew stores) and a pint of water. Bring it to a boil for five minutes, let cool and pour into your bottling bucket with the beer. One at a time, press a bottle onto the bottle filler, let it fill with beer almost to the top and cap it. I’ve found this process works great with two people, one to fill the bottles and the other to cap. If you like, you can write on the caps with a permanent marker, to remind you what beer is inside. You can also find printer paper for custom labels at some homebrew stores. Once in the bottle, your beer will need to sit for about a week more, to let the yeast ferment the extra sugar. After a week to 10 days, you can chill a few bottles in the fridge, open them up and congratulate yourself on your first batch of homebrew! Lauren Duffy Lastowka is a food and health writer and the managing editor of Edible San Diego. Her work has been featured on Inc.com and SeriousEats.com, and in the San Diego Uptown News. Her favorite homebrew batches include Lay My Bourbon Down, a bourbon barrel-aged porter, and Ooh-De-Lolly, a San-Diego style double IPA. You can find her at http://duffystar.com.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


edible endeavors

Homebrewers Helper Story by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher • Photo by Sergio Salvador Located in a small strip mall just north of I-40 off of San Mateo, Victor’s Grape Arbor looks like another of Albuquerque’s many mom and pop hobby retail shops. When you enter, Michelle Trujillo, a young woman offering a warm smile and superior customer service, greets you. Her wares are bins of grains, shelves of siphons, stoppers, sugars, syrups, extracts, thermometers, hydrometers, funnels, bottles, caps, and more. Victor’s is a full service home brew shop with all the tools and ingredients and then some for beer, wine, meade, cider, sake, and a variety of other homemade fermented beverages. When it opened in 1974, The Grape Arbor catered primarily to hardcore craft brew enthusiasts, and European expats longing for more complicated beers than Coors or Budweiser. Victor, Michelle’s dad, bought the shop in 1984. With the advent of microbreweries around the west in the early ‘90s, Victor’s saw a boom in business, and the popularity of the hobby continues. When I visit the store, Michelle is babysitting. A girl about four or five inquisitively sticks her nose into a refrigerator full of yeast. I imagine a young Michelle doing the same thing. She reminisces fondly about growing up in the shop with her dad. Victor was a stout man—dark, malty beers were his specialty, and customers loved how thorough and attentive he was in his advice on brewing. Michelle took the family business over last year after her father passed away, and runs the shop with the same commitment and attention and detail.

Michelle Trujillo, Owner Visit Victor’s at victorsgrapearbor.com and learn about the Duke’s of Ale at dukesofale.com. Victor’s Grape Arbor, 2436 San Mateo Place NE, Albuquerque, NM 87110 • (505) 883-0000

Michelle says her customers come from all walks of life and cultural backgrounds. Home brewing appeals to do-it-yourself-ers, students, cyclist, and scientists. People come to the hobby for all sorts of reasons, and with a variety of different approaches. Some prefer prepackaged kits with specific instructions. Others like all graining brewing a much more involved process and a growing trend in the community. Some simply let taste and smell guide them through the brewing process and are happy with the variety they achieve from one batch to the next. Others are more exacting about their craft and utilize a number of instruments to insure a perfect brew every time. When she took over the business, Michelle confesses she was more of a wine drinker, but building her palette over the past year and a half has given her new love and appreciation for beer. She joined the Duke’s of Ale, an Albuquerque-based home brew club founded in 1989, which now hosts over 50 members. This club meets on the first Wednesday of the month at 6:30pm at one of the local microbreweries. The meetings are both educational and social, and Michelle says, have been an extraordinary resource to learn about the nuance of beer. In addition to their meetings, they also host a number of annual club competitions and the brew competition at the State Fair every year. When asked what her favorite type of beer is, she, like her father is a fan of the stout. The best part of home brewing, she says, is how rewarding it is.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

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Pairings By David Sundberg • Photo by Stephanie Cameron A very wise man once said, “Without beer, things do not seem to go as well.” A less wiser man (me) says, “With beer, food seems to go extremely well!” As I am fortunate enough to be the Chef at Blue Corn Brewery in Santa Fe, I am reminded of this daily. Master Brewer John Bullard and I have the most perfect jobs in the world – we both love great food and exceptional beer and discovering the perfect couple they can make.

of the bacon, shrimp, and cheesy corndogs, while the crisp finish cleaned up nicely after the heat of the chile as well as the heaviness of the fried food. I learned at The American Sector how to make hotdogs from scratch using a farce of beef and spices, then stuffing that into natural casing before smoking or steaming. It’s a tremendous amount of work, but lots of fun and rewarding to have a hotdog that tastes like real food.

I recently spent several days at the John Besh Restaurants in New Orleans, particularly The American Sector Restaurant, which is housed in the National WWII Museum. Upon returning I was inspired to create this menu based on some of the wonderful and creative food I was honored to be a part of during my time there.

Pairing beers with salads can be difficult; too much malt can overwhelm the delicate lettuce yet too much hop will be devastatingly bitter. Since I was using a piñon vinaigrette for the dressing, which balances out bitterness and dryness, I could use a slightly hoppier beer – our Atomic Blonde, a classic German-style lager. The main course was a significant endeavor; I made a heavily seasoned pork sausage then smoked it with hickory wood. Next, I stuffed long links of this into whole pork loins then sous-vide (cooked very slowly for a long time under vacuum) them for about 18 hours. This allowed the flavors of the sausage to penetrate the pork loin and made it exceptionally tender. Along with the cheesy grits and lacquered beans, the

Generally, when I develop a beer event, I form the food pairings based on the beers that John is brewing. However, this time I was so excited to create a menu celebrating my experience in New Orleans that I paired the beers to the food. For starters, the Irish Red complimented the appetizer trio with its medium body playing into the richness

dish packed a serious flavor wallop. The Rye that John brewed was perfect – with a big floral/grassy nose from heavy hopping and a fairly high body from a lower ABV beer, it stood up perfectly to the food. It also carried nice citrus notes and, from the rye and hops, a great, dry finish that kept the palate from being overwhelmed. To finish people off before rolling them out the door, we welcomed special guests Ron and Olha Dolin from Don Quixote Distillery in White Rock. They were generous enough to share their newly-released Blue Corn Bourbon with us. It has classic notes of cherry and vanilla on the front with a clean finish and hints of the blue corn (organic, New Mexican) at the tail end and lends to pairings of rich chocolate and sweet spice. To compliment the cherry and vanilla, I made and cocoa and ginger crust for the Black Bottom Tart, then layered it with Belgian chocolate custard, vanilla bean mousse, and allspice Chantilly. We all enjoyed lively company and conversation, fun and inventive food, and fantastic libations. This evening with beer certainly did seem to go better!

Chef David Sundberg and Brewer John Bullard

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HOMAGE TO AMERICAN SECTOR MENU “New Orleans food is as delicious as the less criminal forms of sin.” ~ Mark Twain Assorted Hors d’oeuvres – House-made bacon & bleu cheese stuffed chicken wings in honey-chile glaze, Siracha shrimp cup, green chile & cheese blue corn dogs. Paired with Paddy’s Irish Red Ale Gumbo, NM Style – Fresh chorizo, pork stock, and roux with cumin rice, smoked trout, and fried okra. Paired with End of the Trail Brown Ale Bibb lettuce with piñon vinaigrette, blue cheese, kidney beans, and pickled nopales. Paired with Atomic Blonde Smoked sausage stuffed pork loin, sous-vide with cheesy grits, molasses-lacquered green beans, and fresh sage demi. Paired with Rye Pale Ale Black bottom tarts with spiced Chantilly. Paired with Don Quixote Distillery Blue Corn Bourbon Brewer John Bullard Ron and Olha Dolin, Don Quixote Distillery Chef David Sundberg

To Learn more about Blue Corn Brewery’s Special Pairing Dinners visit www.bluecorncafe.com

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


sw garden

Wind Breaks for Home and Garden By Zoe Wilcox and Melanie Rubin

12mph winds

3mph winds

15’ tall tree

wind grounds at 90’

Windbreak height x 6

Drawing 1.6 An Effective Windbreak

Wind & Windbreaks

To connect with a piece of land, sometimes called site assessment, we study what already exists. The first step to changing your land, or most anything else for that matter, is being present with it as it is. Consider what you are doing as “long and thoughtful observation.” You may think that nothing is happening on your site. Yet even on barren ground, water falls, weeds grow, land rises and slopes, wind blows, and the soil below holds the land’s history. The quality of your design depends on your thoroughness in assessing all the natural and man-made factors that create your site. So many elements can affect the land’s state, we give structure to this assessment process by considering the four earth elements, Water, Fire (the Sun), Air, and Earth, and how each of these earth elements affects the site.

Air As you connect with your property and the Earth element Air, notice the air quality, wind, noise, and views. To grow the most food possible on your site, and enjoy the property to its fullest, you will want to block wind, filter noise and other pollutants, and deliberately direct your views. Wind severely stresses young plants and lowers their success rate, while what you look at powerfully impacts how you feel. We consider all these questions with the Earth element, Air. In New Mexico in the spring, addressing the Air element is particularly important, as you endeavor to launch your spring/summer garden amidst winds which are often punishing and damaging.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

Drawing 1.6

At my home, we experience brutal spring winds from the west. When does wind affect your property and from what direction does it come? Wind, like most things, has advantages and disadvantages. Light winds cool houses and people. They disperse pollen and seed, clear pollution, and aerate ponds. Harsh winds in spring can damage young plants and blow away seeds. Hot winds in summer can overheat a house and remove humidity while cold winds in winter suck the heat out of a home. Winds dry out and erode soil, strip needed moisture from around plant leaves, and stress the cells of the plants. Wind has the same effect on us and on our pets as it does on plants, drying and stressing our systems. Orchard yields can be destroyed by very hot or very cold winds during flowering. The life we cultivate and host on our farms, including chickens, bees, dogs, plants, and ourselves, needs protection from these harsh winds. By observing what type of winds move across your property and in what direction, you will be able to design for more stillness on your property. If you experience heavy winds, whether they are too hot or too cold or too dusty, you may want to include a windbreak as part of your design. An ideal windbreak is not solid but allows 40% of the wind to pass through. Solid windbreaks, such as a wall or an evergreen hedge, create wind eddies which can be more destructive than the original wind flow. Alternating wood slat fences, coyote fences (young pine or

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aspen poles wired side by side), wire mesh, and deciduous hedges and trees (which can be intermixed with pines), make good windbreaks. Plant your windbreak perpendicular to the direction of prevailing winds in a zigzag formation versus a straight line. The zigzag prevents wind from tunneling between the mature trees of your windbreak. You also want the wind to hit low shrubs first and then higher trees for a logical lift instead of tunneling. A proper windbreak will block wind six times the distance of the height of the windbreak. For example, a 10-foot high windbreak will block wind for 60 feet behind the windbreak. So know the height of the trees you wish to plant and then multiply that by 6 and you have your range of the area behind it that the windbreak will protect. An ideal windbreak extends 50 feet wider than the area you are blocking as wind will eddy around the ends of the windbreak. For example, if the width of the area you want to protect is 50 feet wide, ideally your windbreak would be 100 feet wide. So, a windbreak that is 10 feet tall and 100 feet wide would protect an area behind it that is 60 feet deep by 50 feet wide.

rates so that you have quick fill as well as long-lasting fill. If you are on a small property, however, a non-food producing windbreak may take up more space than you are willing to give up to non-food producers. You may also wish to incorporate a fence as part of the break, as mentioned above. Also, use hardier food-producing trees like apples and nut trees to take most the impact, while more tender fruit, like pears and peaches, enjoy more protection. Windbreaks can also double as shade structures, privacy structures, and screens that block out unwanted views. smaller wind facing shrubs help lift wind

wind that eddies around the side of windbreak A gets lifted by windbreak B semi-perminable windbreaks lift wind vs. creating eddies

Drawing 1.9 Wind-block Walkway

Exercise: Use a Site Plan for Your Property to Plan for Windbreaks

Drawing 1.9

1. Observe where winds come from at different times of the year. Don’t have time to figure it out? Ask a neighbor who is outside often and see what he or she tells you. 2. Identify what you want to protect (the house, a walkway, the chicken run, etc.) and from which direction you want to provide protection. Drawing 1.7 Wind Eddying Over a Wall wind tunnels in opening

3. Find out where to put the windbreak with respect to what’s being protected (your house, your sitting area). If you had a 12-foot tall windbreak made of trees, it would lift wind a distance of 72 feet past the trees. Remember, wind eddies around the edges of a windbreak, so you want the windbreak to be wider than the area Drawing 1.7 you’re protecting. Alternatively, you can make the first windbreak flow into another windbreak. Where within the space you want to protect do you have the width to plant a windbreak? 4. Choose trees for your windbreak that are available, appropriate, and legal to purchase or grow in your area. Make sure you have at least two different heights of trees. 5. Lay out your plants in a zigzag formation, with the shortest shrub being the first to meet the wind.

solid straight walls causes wind to tunnel and eddy windy walkway

Drawing 1.8 Windy Walkway

Excerpted from “The Home Farming Revolution for Drylands” by Zoe Wilcox and Melanie Rubin, release date September 2012.

If you are blocking spring winds, fruit trees are not ideal choices Zoe Wilcox was born on a farm in rural Illinois and farm-raised by two because the wind they block may destroy their blossoms. A few excep- veterinarians, surrounded by agriculture. Melanie Rubin’s educational and tions include mulberries, carob, and nut trees. You may also want to professional background is in training development and delivery, curriculum use species that are native to your area or nitrogen-fixing speciesDrawing like design, 1.8project management, marketing and PR, video production, writing Siberian pea shrub and sea buckthorn. A windbreak should always and publishing, and small business management and coaching. consist of two to four varieties of species that have different growth

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


Eat Local Guide

Payroll Bookkeeping Human Resouces Insurance Management

New Mexico has its own unique food traditions—from Hatch to Chimayo—and we’d like to help you find some of the area restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food.

505.872.1880 7103 4th St. N.W Bldg F Los Ranchos, NM www.notjustpayroll.com

ALBUQUERQUE Annapurna Annapurna is a woman-owned vegetarian restaurant serving healing cuisine in Albuquerque since 2001 and Santa Fe since 2005. This premier organic establishment focuses on a made-fromscratch menu that is Ayurvedic (a healing system from India), vegan and gluten-free, including its own vegan and gluten-free bakery. 2201 Silver Ave SE - 505.262.2424 & 7520 4th St NW - 505.254.2424 chaishoppe.com Artichoke Café Celebrating its 21st year in business, the Artichoke Cafe offers casual fine dining, a Wine Spectator Award Winning Wine List and Artisan Cocktails in the full-service bar. Private rooms are available for special occasions and meetings. Off-premise catering. On-premise parking with attendant on duty. Walk from the Albuquerque Railrunner stop. 424 Central Ave. SE, (505)243-0200 www.artichokecafe.com

edible Santa Fe’s “We Love Local” App Now available at iTunes for iPhone & iPad.

Casa Benavidez The Benavidez family and employees at Casa de Benavidez offer excellent food in a delightful and peaceful atmosphere. Here you will find traditional Mexican and New Mexican food in the surroundings of a beautiful garden and waterfall. The full-service New Mexican restaurant also provides a smaller dining area for fast carryout meals complete with a patio. 8032 4th Street NW, Albuquerque, New Mexico 87114 - 505.898.3311 www.casadebenavidez.com Chama River Brewing www.chamariverbrewery.com Is the only full service brewery in Albuquerque. Their line up offers six house beers and variety of seasonal and specialty beers. Head Brewer, Justin Hamilton’s hand-crafted ales and lagers have brought home several awards from the American Beer Cup and the Great American Beer Festival. 106 2nd St. SW, Albuquerque, NM - 505.842.8329

Whether you need to know where to dine, where your closest farmers market is, or where you can buy a cow (the meat), our “Guides” will help you find your destination. edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

Farm & Table Located in Albuquerque’s North Valley, Farm & Table recognizes that we are blessed with over 300 days of sunshine, irrigation from the Rio Grande, and rich soil. Our community is blossoming to promote health, sustainability, and the local economy. This celebration of local food and community is what drives the philosophy at Farm & Table. Dinner: Wed & Thurs, 5:00 pm - 9:00 pm. Fri & Sat, 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm. Brunch: Sat & Sun, 9:00 am - 2:00 pm. 8917 4th Street NW, Albuquerque, NM 87114, 505.503.7124 www.farmandtablenm.com

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Chama River Brewing Co. Is the only full service brewery in Albuquerque. Their line up offers six house beers and variety of seasonal and specialty beers. Head Brewer, Justin Hamilton’s hand-crafted ales and lagers have brought home several awards from the American Beer Cup and the Great American Beer Festival. 106 2nd St. SW, Albuquerque, NM. 505-842-8329 www.chamariverbrewery.com Farina Pizzeria & Wine Bar An artisan pizzeria and wine bar with a classic Italian menu with a sophisticated twist. Great selection of affordable Italian wines, local Marble Brewery on draught, and delectable home-made desserts in a renovated historic building. Voted “Best New Restaurant” by Albuquerque Magazine. Walk from the Albuquerque Railrunner stop. 510 Central Ave SE, (505)243.0130 www.farinapizzeria.com Il Vicino Brewing Co. Canteen The IVB Canteen: brewery, restaurant and community - produces award-winning micro-brews, and boasts an exceptional food menu while remaining true to its’ roots as a brewery taproom. Unpretentious, exciting and innovative the Canteen is the perfect place to discover a new passion! 2381 Aztec, Albuquerque, NM 87107 505.881.2737 www.ilvicino.com/brewery Los Poblanos Inn Our cuisine is rooted in what comes from our farm as well as the New Mexico Rio Grande River Valley. Cuisine and ambiance reflect chef Jonathan Perno’s aesthetic, and the farm’s long established relationships with local farmers. Please check our website to see when the next dinner will be, or to book your own event or private dining experience: lospoblanos.com Marble Brewery Albuquerque & Marble Brewery Tap Room Santa Fe Marble Brewery’s mission is to provide bold, hand-crafted ales and lagers. Marble is a production brewery with an on-site tasting room and outdoor beer garden located in downtown Albuquerque. Marble Brewery offers eight house beers and a variety of seasonal styles in draft and bottle. Albuquerque - 111 Marble Ave., NW, Albuquerque, NM - 505.243.2739 Santa Fe - 60 E. San Francisco St., Ste. 313, Santa Fe, NM - 505.989.3565 www.marblebrewery.com

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THE ESSENCE of WELL BEING®

Eat Local Guide cont... Savoy Bar and Grill Savoy is a casual fine dining, locally-owned restaurant in Albuquerque’s Northeast Heights. Savoy has a full bar, extensive wine list, serves steaks, oysters, and fresh fish. We have a beautiful patio and lounge, featuring specials and a great happy hour daily. Lunch: M-F 11-3, Dinner daily at 5. 10601 Montgomery Blvd. - 505.294.9463 savoyabq.com

®

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill Great food and wine with a seasonal flair. Enjoy our wood-fired steaks and seafood while sipping a glass of wine from our award winning wine list. Or, relax on our rooftop patio and enjoy our happy hour with a great view of Old Town, Albuquerque. Lunch: M-F 11:30-2:30, Dinner daily at 5. 2031 Mountain Rd., NW - 505.766.5100 seasonsabq.com

ALL NATURAL ~ HANDCRAFTED ~ HARMONY WITH NATURE

ESSENTIAL OILS - BODY CARE - SOY CANDLES SANTA FE, NM www.aromaland.com

MOBILE SHARPENING SERVICE

The Grove Café & Market An artisan café serving breakfast, lunch and brunch. The Grove features local organic produce and products and always uses the highest quality seasonal ingredients available. Enjoy fine coffee, tea, wine and brunch cocktails and peruse our market for culinary gifts and favorite foodie items. Sunday brunch is a true taste of this bustling café scene. Tues-Sat 7-4, Sun 8-3, Closed Mon 600 Central Ave, SE 505.248.9800 thegrovecafemarket.com

NEW LIFE TO OLD KNIVES Kitchen Kinves Scissors All Types Carving Tools Garden Tools Reconditioning Repairs

Turtle Mountain Brewing Co. We have been Rio Rancho’s neighborhood brewpub since 1999. Come and try our award winning beers and the best wood-fired pizza in Albuquerque. 905 36th Place SE Rio Rancho NM 87124 - 505-994-9497 www.turtlemountainbrewing.com

CUSTOM WORK Hunting Knives Chef ’s Knives Kitchen Cutlery Wood working Tools Toolmaking

SERVICE TO YOUR DOOR, OR YEAR ROUND AT THE SANTA FE FARMERS MARKET PAT ROMERO 505-577-4491

Zinc Wine Bar and Bistro A three-level bistro in the heart of Nob Hill, Zinc features contemporary cuisine with a French flair. The intimate cellar bar serves a lighter menu with live music three nights a week. Serving lunch and dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails and tasty bar bites! Lunch T-F 11-2:30, Dinner daily at 5, Weekend brunch 11-2:30. 3009 Central Avenue, NE. - 505.254.9462 zincabq.com

Use Only the Best on Your Skin!

Milagro Herbs

SANTA FE

Specializing in hand-crafted, organic, locally made skincare products to suit your needs **

Andiamo We prepare the finest, local and seasonal ingredients a la minute with the utmost care and respect. Eating sustains more than the body, dining at Andiamo inspires conversation and evokes memories. We see Andiamo as a collective experience for people who love food, our staff is genuinely happy to work with our customers. At the end of the day, we want our guests to feel better for having eaten here. Across the street from the Railyard. 322 Garfield, 505.995.9595. Nightly 5:15 www.andiamoonline.com

Come by our new store at 419 Orchard Drive (off Paseo de Peralta, next to Kakawa Chocolate house and across from the Gerald Peters Galley)

Store Hours: Mon-Sat 10-5:30pm Visit our Website: www.milagroherbs.com (505) 820-6321

Annapurna Annapurna is a woman-owned vegetarian restaurant serving healing cuisine in Albuquerque since 2001 and Santa Fe since 2005. This premier organic establishment focuses on a made-from-scratch menu that is Ayurvedic (a healing system from India), vegan and gluten-free, including its own vegan and gluten-free bakery. 1620 Saint Michaels Dr., 505.988.9688 chaishoppe.com

2nd ANNUAL KITCHEN GARDEN & COOP TOUR presented by Home Grown & edible SANTA FE

Heidi’s

July 29, 2012

Blue Corn Café & Brewery Downtown and Southside Award winning hand-crafted microbrews. Their beer is brewed daily on premise and they specialize in using several varieties of international hops and local ingredients. They have six house beers that are always on tap and two to three rotating taps with Brewmaster specials. Southside: 4056 Cerrillos Rd., Santa Fe, NM - 505.438.1800 Downtown: 133 W Water St., Santa Fe, NM - 505.984.1800 www.bluecorncafe.com

6 Gardens featured in Santa Fe Tickets: $35

Registration opens in May, visit ediblesantafe.com for more information.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


“Where Artisan Cocktails Meet Creative Cuisine.”

Tree House

Seasonal, Sustainable, Organic featuring Niman Ranch Meats

always local

Wine Spectator Award of Excellence

all organic

breakfast

505/243-0200 • www.ArtichokeCafe.com

lunch and delightful

tR Grea Two

desserts 1600 Lena St. Santa Fe 505.474.5543

estaur

ants, Same Great Corner! Cor

ner of

Ed i t h

& Ce

ntral.

505/243-0130 www.FarinaPizzeria.com

TreeHousePastry.com

El Meze

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

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Eat Local Guide cont... Café Pasqual’s In 1999 we received the James Beard America’s Regional Cooking Classics Award for a “timeless, grassroots restaurant that serves memorable food and is strongly embedded in the fabric of the community.” For thirty years we have been serving emphatically flavored cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of New Mexico, Old Mexico and Asia. We are dedicated to using fresh, seasonal, organic and naturally raised foods. 121 Don Gaspar, 505.983.9340 or 800.722.7672, Open Daily for lunch from 8-3, Sunday Brunch 8-3, Dinner nightly from 5:30pm. Il Piatto Italian Farmhouse Kitchen Located One Block North of the Historic Santa Fe Plaza. Nationally acclaimed bustling trattoria featuring farm fresh, local produce, wine bar, private wine room, patio dining , Enoteca. House-made everything - award winning Chef. 95 west Marcy St, 505.984.1091 Lunch Mon–Sat, Dinner 7 nights, Enoteca 2-5 Mon-Sat ilpiattosantafe.com Jambo Check out the buzz! Chef Ahmed Obo’s subtle, East African-inspired cuisine has taken Santa Fe by storm. Try the Souper Bowl-winning peanut, chicken, coconut stew, stuffed phyllo, jerked chicken, succulent locally-raised goat or lamb, curries, wraps, more. 2010 Cerrillos Road. 505.473.1269 Open Mon-Sat. 11am-9pm Menu atjambocafe.net Joe’s Dining Since 2002 Santa Fe’s largest purchaser of Farmers Market meats and produce, expertly prepared by European trained chef/owner. Mesquite grill, pizza, brunch, wine, beer. Excellent quality, exceptional value. 2801 Rodeo Rd. at Zia. 505.471-3800 T-Sun. 11:30 am-9 pm joesdining.com La Boca Chef/Owner James Campbell Caruso uses traditional and local ingredients to create both authentic and innovative Spanish and Mediterranean tapas, complemented by a dynamic and carefully selected wine and sherry list. Located just steps from the Santa Fe plaza, La Boca has the feel of a European wine bar, lively but intimate. Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. 72 W Marcy St. 505.982.3433 labocasf.com La Casa sena A local favorite for over 27 years! Chef Gharrity features modern, sustainable cuisine, infused with Southwestern influences and fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list. Located in the historic Sena plaza. 125 E. Palace Ave 505.988.5232. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3, Sun Brunch: 11-3, Dinner 5:30-10 nightly. www.lacasasena.com

Tree house Pastry & Cafe Named one of the country’s “Top 100 Farm to Table Restaurants” by Gourmet Magazine, this sweet neighborhood café has been serving all-organic, locallysourced, vegetarian meals—as well as scrumptious cakes and pastries—since 2006. Family friendly, conveniently located just off Second St. 1600 Lena Street, A2. 505.474.5543. Tues-Sat 8:30am- 3:00pm. treehousepastry.com Vinaigrette A bright and lively bistro and wine bar in an historic adobe near downtown Santa Fe. Specializes in creative, gourmet entrée salads that highlight local and organic ingredients, including produce from the owner’s farm! 709 Don Cubero Alley, 505.820.9205 M – S 11am – 9pm, Closed Sun vinaigretteonline.com

TAOS Doc Martin’s, Taos Inn Doc Martin’s Restaurant is a true Taos tradition, an acclaimed dining establishment located in a registered historic landmark. Executive Chef Zippy White specializes in fresh local food with a splash of the southwest, sourcing from regional farms and gardens. With over 400 wine selections, our world class wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award of Excellence for twenty one consecutive years. 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos. 575.758.2233 Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving brunch on Saturday and Sunday. taosinn.com El Meze Regionally inspired rustic New Mexican, Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine from Chef/Food Historian Frederick Muller. Dinner only Monday – Saturday 5:30pm to 9:30pm. Closed Sundays. Located in the historic El Torreon Hacienda. 1017 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (1.2 miles north of the TaosPlaza). 575.751.3337. elmeze.com The Gorge Bar and Grill A fun and casual restaurant, perfect for a delicious meal or cocktails and appetizers to top off the day. The menu is straightforward and yet eclectic, chock full of favorites with the special twist of The Gorge. Every dish on the menu is made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible.. 103 East Taos Plaza Taos, 575.758.8866 thegorgebarandgrill.com Taos Diner and Taos Diner II Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown and organic breakfast, lunch and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. Many ingredients from local farms and ranches. Fair trade organic coffee, where the locals go! 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575.758.2374 or Taos Diner II at 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sud, 575.751.1989.

Photo by Stephanie Cameron Quinoa Salad at Farm and Table

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


edible Santa Fe and ARCA announce our

First Annual Native Seeds/Search Plant Sale

edible Santa Fe and Friends will be hosting a series of cooking classes and talks centered around sustainable food, farming, and back yard gardening.

May 19th

7am-noon Los Ranchos Growers Market

Please join us for this one day only event!

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Classes begin in May, please visit our website ediblesantafe.com for an updated series calendar, follow us on Facebook at Edible Santa Fe, or contact Kate@ediblesantafe.com for more information.

Heirloom Tomatoes Jemez Chiles Isleta Chiles Chimayo Chiles Nambe Chiles Sandia Chiles Herbs Galore Hopi Red Watermelons Yellow Watermelons Aztec White Beans Tepary Beans Havasupi Sunflowers Acoma Pumpkin Penasco Cheese Pumpkin AND MORE!!

We are nurturing thousands of native plant starts for your garden, all sourced through Native Seed Search for the New Mexico garden, and lovingly tended in the Arca Organics greenhouses.

Sponsored by edible Santa Fe, Hanks House, and Los Poblanos Inn and Cultural Center

For more information please visit our website, or email info@ediblesantafe.com. A portion of the proceeds will benefit our community partners at ARCA.

edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012

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Chocolate & Coffee Fest Winners Photos by Stephanie Cameron

edible Santa Fe proudly sponsored the cooking demos and the first annual baking contest at the 2nd Annual Southwest Chocolate and Coffee Festival in March. We had nine chef demos over the course of the weekend in our fabulous mobile kitchen built just for the show by our friends and partners at Hanks House Designs in Albuquerque. We opened our baking contests to young, home, and professional bakers, and had more than 40 entrants, judged by a panel of 12 professional judges. The contest was surely one of the highlights of the festival and we look forward to doing it again next year. Below, the winning recipes and some great shots of the weekend! Here, the winning recipes, and some great shots of our weekend at the Southwest Coffee and Chocolate Fest! Kerri Cottle won our home bakers contest – her cake wowed the judges with its secret ingredient – beans! The cake was delicious, and worth the extra steps it takes to make it. The recipe as it is presented here, makes one layer cake. Kerri found that doubling the recipe didn’t work as well as doing one layer at a time, so you will make one layer, and then start over and make the second layer if you want a double layer cake. The process worked, our judges loved it – and it happens to be gluten free!

Chocolate Anasazi Bean Cake Makes one 8 or 9-inch layer 1 ½ cups of Anasazi beans, cooked and drained ½ C. honey ¼ C. sugar 3 farm eggs 1 t. salt 1/2 C. apple sauce 2 T. Chimayo Red chile powder ½ T. cinnamon ½ C. + 3 T. cocoa powder 2 t. vanilla extract

Chocolate Fudge Chile Chevre Frosting ¼ C. Anasazi beans, cooked, drained well 3 C. powdered sugar 1/2 C. cocoa powder 1 T. cinnamon 4 T. butter, softened 6 T. mild, soft chevre 1 t. Chimayo Red chile powder (or less if you prefer less heat) 1 T. honey ¼ C. milk Put beans along with honey in food processor and blend until completely smooth – if the mixture is too dry, add a little of the milk to get the smoothest consistency possible. Scrape the mixture into a mixing bowl and sift in cocoa, powdered sugar and chile. Add Chevre and butter, mix with hand mixer until smooth. With the mixer running, slowly add the milk, the icing should whip to a mousse consistency. If the frosting is too thin, you may need to add up to 2-4 tablespoons of powdered sugar to get a mousse-like consistency. Frost the first layer, and gently unmold the second cake on top of the frosted layer. Finish frosting the entire cake, and garnish with whole and chopped candied pecans. Refrigerate for up to 8 hours, and remove one hour before ready to serve. Candied Pecan recipe at ediblesantafe.com

Cake Preheat the oven to 350⁰ F. Coat a 9”x9” baking pan (silicone works best for this cake) with cooking oil. In a food processor, puree the beans till smooth, then transfer to medium mixing bowl. Add honey, applesauce, cinnamon, cocoa and beat with a mixer until smooth, about 3-5 minutes. Add red chile and salt, then add 3 eggs to batter and mix on lower setting until the eggs are mixed into batter. Pour into prepared pans. Bake until the surface looks somewhat matte around the edges and pulls away from the silicon pan, about 40 minutes depending on your oven. Test for doneness with a toothpick, which should come out clean. Let cool at least 15 minutes before removing one of the layers from pans. Keep the second layer in its pan until you are ready to assemble and frost the cake. When completely cool, cover loosely with foil and refrigerate overnight to let cakes firm up. Cakes should be filled and frosted when cold.

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edible Santa Fe · Spring 2012


Directions: Whip the cream and sugar in a large bowl until stiff peaks form. Chill in the refrigerator.

Young Baker Winner, Larisa Gearheart. Lisa presented these as cupcakes (see photo), the recipe here is for a cake.

The Raspberry Glaze Ingredients: 2 C. fresh raspberries (set aside ½ cup for later) 2 C. caster sugar 1 T. freshly-squeezed lemon juice

3-Layer Raspberry Chocolate Mousse Cake The Mississippi Mud Cake

Directions: Combine 11/2 cups of the raspberries, the sugar and the lemon juice in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat. As the mixture heats, mash the berries. Bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce the heat and simmer until the jelly coats the spoon, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and skim the foam from the top. Strain the mixture, which should measure approximately 1 cup. Cool.

Ingredients: 1 C. all-purpose flour 1/8 t. table salt 1 t. baking powder 8 oz. strongly brewed coffee 2 oz. brandy 1-4 oz. dark chocolate baking bar (set aside a small piece for later) 1 C. butter/margarine 1&3/4 C. caster sugar 2 eggs (at room temperature) 1 1/2 t. vanilla extract

The Finishing Touches 2 T. cocoa powder 1/2 C. set-aside raspberries 1 set-aside piece of a dark chocolate baking bar 1 T. powdered sugar Directions: Place the cake on the desired serving platter. Dust the top of the cake with cocoa. Place the mousse in a piping bag and pipe it onto the cake, smoothing with a knife if necessary. Place the whipped cream in a piping bag and pipe onto the top of the mousse layer, smoothing with a knife if necessary. Place the raspberry glaze in a Ziploc bag, cut off the tip of the bag, and pipe the glaze onto the top of the cake in zigzags. Place the fresh raspberries around or on the cake as desired. Grate or shave the piece of chocolate and sprinkle the shavings on the top of the cake. Dust lightly with powdered sugar.

Directions: Preheat the oven to 275°F. Sift the flour, salt, and baking powder together. Break the chocolate bar into small pieces. Combine the coffee, brandy, chocolate and margarine in the top of a double boiler. Heat until the chocolate and butter have melted and the mixture is smooth, stirring occasionally. Pour the chocolate mixture into a large bowl. Using an electric mixer on low speed, gradually beat in the sugar. Continue beating until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the speed to medium and add the sifted dry ingredients. Mix well, then beat in the eggs and vanilla until thoroughly blended. Pour the batter into a well-greased baking pan, and bake until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour 20 minutes. Leave to cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then remove and let cool completely. The Mousse Ingredients: 1/2 C. bittersweet chocolate chips 10 oz. heavy/whipping cream 1/4 C. caster sugar 1 egg white Directions: In a small saucepan, heat half of the cream until it begins to boil. Turn off the heat, add the chocolate chips, and stir until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth. Pour the mixture into a bowl set over ice water and add the rest of the cream. Using a hand-held electric whisk, beat the mixture to soft peaks. Remove the bowl from the ice water. Separate the egg white into a bowl. Whisk the egg white with the electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Add the sugar one tablespoon at a time and continue whisking to a soft meringue. Carefully fold the meringue through the chocolate mixture, then place in the refrigerator and chill overnight. The Cream Ingredients: 10 oz. heavy/whipping cream 2 T. powdered sugar

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Our professional baker is Leslie Kelly, she is a full-time culinary student at Santa Fe Community College, a bread baker for Eastwing Eatery, and assistant pastry chef at La Boca Restaurant in Santa Fe. The judges – all professionals – loved Leslie’s Chocolate Honey Cake!

Sift flour, baking soda, and salt and add to creamed mixture, fold in melted chocolate.

Rio Valle Chocolate Honey Cake

Filling

Cake Ingredients 6 oz. El Rey Mijao Dark Chocolate 61%, chopped into small pieces 5 oz. light brown sugar 8 oz butter, room temperature ½ C. honey 2 eggs, room temperature 1 t. pure vanilla extract 8.2 oz AP flour 1 t. baking soda 1 t. salt 2T. Dutch processed cocoa 1T. espresso powder 8 fl oz. boiling water Directions: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a bain marie melt chopped chocolate and set aside. Cream together butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy. Add honey. Add eggs one at a time. Add vanilla.

Boil water and measure out 8 fl oz. Mix in cocoa and espresso powder until dissolved. Add water mixture to the flour mixture and whisk until smooth. Pour into a buttered and parchment lined 9” spring form pan and bake for 1 hour, add time if necessary. Mix 8 oz. of goat cheese and heavy cream until smooth. The consistency should be thick yet smooth. Hold warm over bain marie. One jar of raspberry preserves Ganache 16 oz. El Rey Mijao Dark Chocolate 61%, chopped into small pieces 16 oz. heavy cream Heat the cream and pour over chocolate. Mix with a heat resistant rubber spatula. Don’t whisk you’ll get bubbles. Building the cake When the cake has cooled, slice in half horizontally to make two layers. Brush one layer with the raspberry preserves and pipe the goat cheese mixture over the surface in an even layer. Brush the bottom of the other layer with the preserves and stack on top of the goat cheese. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 min. Place the cake on a cooling rack on a half sheet pan and pour warm ganache over the cake until its covered on all sides. Let the ganache partially set then gently press the crushed chocolate covered espresso beans to all sides.


last bite

SW Coffee & Chocolate Fest

Pictured from top left clockwise: with Broadway actress Rena Strober, Host and Chef Shawn Weed with our youngest contestant, first grader Gwendolyn Tull, Nicole Brady from KOB TV, and fabulous dessert entries.

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Edible Santa Fe Spring 2012