Late Winter 2017: Breakfast

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photo: doug merriam

poured. stirred. smoked. sipped.

abuelito. 505.930.5325


GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook




LOCAL HEROES 2017 Winners Announced


FRONT OF THE HOUSE Creamy and Chocolatey by Robin Babb


BACK OF THE HOUSE From the Source by Candolin Cook







Hotel for Hens by Sophie Putka Bubbles in the Desert by Marjory Sweet Enchanted Sours by Joshua Johnson


DIGGING IN Getting Cultured by Natalie Bovis


EDIBLE COMMUNITY Inspiring Community by Zoey Fink

36 COOKING FRESH For the Love of Brunch by Candolin Cook Recipes by Seth Matlick






Instagram Round Up

76 SOURCE GUIDE / EAT LOCAL GUIDE 80 LAST BITE Cynar Mimosa by Enrique Guerrero

FEATURES 48 BAKERY ROUND-UP by Stephanie Cameron



Breakfast. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

58 BRINGING HOME THE BACON Kyzer Farm Has the Cure for the Common Pig by Mark DeRespinis

64 RAW MILK FINDS ITS NICHE De Smet Dairy Brings Farm Experience to New Mexico Refrigerators by Michael J. Dax

70 PUT AN EGG ON IT Supply Chain and Super Food Leads to Delicious Eggs and Happy Farmers by Ric Murphy




PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

The morning meal, too often overlooked or underappreciated, helps us start the day off right. From the farmers and bakers to the ranchers and roasters, all who often rise before the sun to produce the necessary ingredients, breakfast is a group effort. As we face a new year, new local and global challenges, and a new president, we at edible decided to start the year like we strive to start our days: with a fulfilling meal that sets the tone and provides us with the energy we need for what lies ahead. Breakfast is no mere afterthought for many New Mexicans. A case in point may be the classic breakfast burrito that reigns on breakfast menus throughout the state. Though hard to substantiate, claims abound that the savory egg-potato-chile stuffed tortilla was invented in New Mexico, possibly at Tia Sophia’s in 1975 in Santa Fe. Today, breakfast burritos can be found coast to coast, a small testimony that people throughout the country have developed a taste for the iconic chiles of our state and the many unique dishes that have developed around them. Sourced with local ingredients, breakfast can not only taste better, but can also help bring us closer to our local landscape and community. In this issue, we feature a variety of New Mexico food producers who can help you make the most out of your day’s first meal. We visit De Smet Dairy to learn about the advantages of, and controversy surrounding, raw milk. Then we head to Albuquerque’s far South Valley to follow Kyzer Farm’s herd of humanely raised pigs from pen to plate. Nothing says breakfast like eggs; unfortunately, with terms like free range or cage free often suggesting better conditions than the poultry in fact experience, a good egg can be hard to find. In two articles, we explore egg operations at Mesa Top Farms and El Pinto Restaurant, where true commitment to the welfare of chickens equals a superior egg. And, finally, we round up eight of New Mexico’s best bakers to tempt us with their favorite breads and pastries. Whether simple or elaborate, alone or with family and friends, a good breakfast can provide a small but important daily source of strength and optimism. Rise and shine!

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook



COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Briana Olson

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron

EVENT COORDINATORS Natalie Donnelly and Gina Riccobono




SALES AND MARKETING Melinda Esquibel and Katie Plaster

CONTACT US 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 Phone: 505-375-1329

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-375-1329 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook, Editors

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year. We distribute throughout central and northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at American Web Denver, Colorado No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2017 All rights reserved.

Winner of James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Publication of the Year


edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

CONTRIBUTORS ROBIN BABB Robin Babb is a freelance writer and editor living in Albuquerque. She mostly writes about food, music, and the great outdoors. You can find her writing in the Weekly Alibi and at . NATALIE BOVIS Natalie Bovis founded, Santa Fe Cocktail Week, and New Mexico Cocktails & Culture festival, and she co-founded OM Organic Mixology Liqueurs. She hosts Digging In: A Recipe for Sustainability, an edible Santa Fe video series. She has authored three cocktail books, including Edible Cocktails: Garden-to-Glass (2012). A bar consultant and spirits educator, she was named one of four women leading the liquor industry by STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and received a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible Santa Fe in their backyard. Today, Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible Santa Fe. CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral student at the University of New Mexico, an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review, and editor of edible Santa Fe. She spends much of her free time washing carrots and radishes at her husband’s vegetable farm, Vida Verde Farm, in Albuquerque's North Valley. Come check out their booth at the Downtown Growers Market, and follow her farm life on Instagram: @candolin and @vidaverdefarmabq. MICHAEL J. DAX Michael J. Dax lives in Santa Fe and writes about environment and culture in the American West. He is the author of Grizzly West: A Failed Attempt to Reintroduce Grizzly Bears in the Mountain West (2015). MARK DERESPINIS Mark DeRespinis is a farmer, photographic artist, foodie, and proud father. He encourages everyone to celebrate seasonal and local abundance every day in a new, or old, or really any old way.


edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

ZOEY FINK Zoey Fink is a native New Mexican with a passion for local food systems and the communities that support them. She works as the assistant manager of the Downtown Growers’ Market, event coordinator for the Agrarian Trust, and vending coordinator for the Rail Yards Market. When she isn’t organizing vendors or discussing environmental issues and their relationship to agriculture, she can be found climbing rocks, growing veggies in her neighborhood community garden, and going for long runs along the Rio Grande. JOSHUA JOHNSON Joshua Johnson practices landscape design and installation, specializing in environmental specificity and appropriateness. His love for gardens has inspired four years as a nurseryman at Albuquerque’s Plants of the Southwest, a lot of landscape maintenance, and various design-build projects in environments as different as New Mexico and the Netherlands. SETH MATLICK Seth Matlick grew up in Manhattan, far removed from the desert and farming. To his great delight, he found both in New Mexico in 2008, and he has been growing ever since at Vida Verde Farm. RIC MURPHY Ric Murphy is the owner and manager of Sol Harvest, an urban farm growing clean, green, pesticidefree vegetables, herbs, and flowers in the beautiful North Valley of Albuquerque. Ric and his wife Aimee are committed to being stewards of the land and building community around food. Follow them on Instagram @solharvest. MARJORY SWEET Marjory Sweet is native to coastal Maine and was drawn to the Southwest by its ancient history, desert wilderness, and the opportunity to work outside. She owns Otter Farm in Albuquerque's South Valley. She also raises meat rabbits, keeps chickens, and experiments in raw goat’s milk. SOPHIE PUTKA Sophie Putka is a Massachusetts transplant in love with New Mexico. She writes, studies journalism, and haunts Albuquerque eateries in search of a good bagel. She can usually be found in the kitchen, trying to use up as many leftovers as possible and plotting her next adventure.

February 3, 2017 – January 7, 2018 Frank Buffalo Hyde, Close Encounters Of The Selfie Stick Kind, 2016. Mixed media on canvas, 20 × 24 inches. Courtesy of the the artist. Photo by John Vokoun.

Post-millennium, Native Americans are part of the digital age, the selfie age, where if something hasn’t been posted to social media, it never happened. We no longer just experience reality; we filter reality through our electronic devices. A new generation of Native American artists uses social media to let the world know who they are. Today, we are the observers, as well as the observed. — Frank Buffalo Hyde

On Museum Hill in Santa Fe · (505) 476-1269 ·


edible Santa Fe Announces Our 2017 Local Heroes Edible recognizes this group of amazing individuals and organizations for their work to create healthy, sustainable food systems in New Mexico. We determine these awards through reader nominations and a reader poll. The local food movement is a grassroots effort that often involves late nights, backbreaking work, dirty fingernails, and being a generally good sport. In an effort to showcase these individuals, organizations, and businesses for their work to build a stronger local economy and a robust local food system, each issue this year will spotlight several of the winners with interviews about the work they do.

Photo courtesy of Farm & Table

Jason and Lauren Greene, The Grove Cafe & Market

Top, clockwise: Carrie Eagle of Farm & Table, Best Chef Albuquerque; Colin Shane of Arroyo Vino, Best Chef Santa Fe; Loyal Hound, Best Gastropub; Rancho de Chimayรณ, Best Restaurant New Mexico; Heidi's Raspberry Jam, Best Food Artisan. Photos by Stephanie Cameron except where noted. 6

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LOCAL HEROES Here, our readers share words on why they nominated these winning individuals and businesses.


RESTAURANT, SANTA FE IZANAMI “The most interesting restaurant in Santa Fe with the best sake list within one thousand miles. Since José ‘Kiko’ Rodriguez took over the kitchen at izanami six months ago, the food has been outstanding, and they use a lot of local ingredients.”

“Local institution; family-run business. Great homestyle New Mexican food, reasonably priced, and very consistent.”

Photo courtesy of izanami Photo by Kimberly Richardson

CAFE, ALBUQUERQUE THE SHOP BREAKFAST & LUNCH “The Shop consistently rises above their humble location by producing delicious and ambitious dishes. They also have made a firm commitment to sourcing local ingredients and to supporting neighborhood activities.”

Photo courtesy of The Shop

Israel Rivera, chef and owner of The Shop Breakfast & Lunch. 8

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José “Kiko” Rodriguez, executive chef of izanami.

RESTAURANT, ALBUQUERQUE ARTICHOKE CAFÉ “Twenty-eight plus years in the business—their food and service are always impeccable. Love their commitment to local sourcing.”

Photo courtesy of Artichoke Cafe

Pat and Terry Keene, owners.

CHEF, SANTA FE COLIN SHANE, ARROYO VINO “Chef Colin Shane puts forth enticing and consistently spectacular food, often using produce from their garden. Always an exciting dining experience.”

Experience great taste through all five senses. Built on La Fonda’s original 1920s patio, La Plazuela would be picture perfect even without its storied architecture and majestic skylights. If great taste is our benchmark, service is our hallmark. Treat yourself to a culinary adventure that engages all five senses.

Photo courtesy of Arroyo Vino

100 E. San Francisco St. • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-995-2334 •

CHEF, ALBUQUERQUE CARRIE EAGLE, FARM & TABLE “Chef Eagle consistently provides the freshest, highestquality food to guests at Farm & Table. She works regularly with over twenty local farmers, ranchers, and food artisans to source the best local and regional food possible. She leads a dynamic team and has been recognized regularly for her culinary achievements.”


Cultural Explorations The Feasting Place

June 10–14, 2017 Explore the methods, ingredients, and artistry of traditional Pueblo foods at the Feasting Place, an American Indian-owned cooking school. The foods you make will nourish the community, as together you take part in a feast day at Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo.

Photo courtesy of Carrie Eagle

CST 2059347-50 | Cortez, Colorado | 800.422.8975, ext. 457 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM




RESTAURANT, NEW MEXICO RANCHO DE CHIMAYÓ “We have been going to Rancho de Chimayó for over twenty-five years. It is still our quintessential destination for out of town visitors. We always find quality food, good service, and a setting that cannot be beat.”

“Fresh food, delicious menu, using locally grown organic products. They offer amazing food that is continuously presented beautifully. The best food truck in Albuquerque. Also, they are the sweetest people you will ever come across.”

Photo courtesy of My Sweet Basil

GASTROPUB LOYAL HOUND Photo courtesy of Rancho de Chimayó

Florence Jaramillo, owner.


“Husband and wife team that delivers consistently upscale ‘gastropub’ food with a gourmet twist. Great food, and owners are always present to ask about your meal and experience. They are always pushing the food envelope by using locally sourced ingredients.”

“Heidi Eleftheriou is a force of nature. She has set an amazing precedent for what it means to be a local farmer and entrepreneur.”

Heidi Eleftheriou, photo Jessica Enman.


edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

Renée Fox, co-owner/chef. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

SPECIALTY RETAILER SANTA FE SCHOOL OF COOKING “Both Nicole [Curtis Ammerman] and Susan [Curtis] are such great community collaborators. They draw experience and expertise from a pool of chefs, rather than a single personality. Their shop has a well-rounded offering of all the cooking traditions of New Mexico. The school’s signature strengths are warmth, collaboration, and celebration.”

Susan Curtis and Nicole Curtis Ammerman, photo courtesy of SFSC.

BEVERAGE ARTISAN, NON-ALCOHOLIC VERDE. “Awesome commitment to local, sustainable sourcing and to supporting New Mexico and regional growers and producers across their menu! And tasty products to boot!”

Kelly Egolf, photo courtesy of Verde. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


LOCAL HEROES BEVERAGE ARTISAN, ALCOHOLIC SANTA FE BREWING COMPANY “Santa Fe Brewing does an amazing job brewing delicious beers. The staff is always friendly and helpful with selecting beers.”

FARM/RANCH ROMERO FARMS “Romero Farms is one of the biggest organic farm operations in northern New Mexico and their commitment to serving our community is unmatched. Matt [Romero] and his staff are extremely helpful, friendly, and professional.”

Brian Lock, owner. Photo courtesy of Santa Fe Brewing.

MIXOLOGIST / COCKTAIL PROGRAM NATALIE BOVIS, THE LIQUID MUSE “Wonderful, creative drinks; great books and media columns; and extremely supportive of local businesses and culture.” Matt Romero, photo by Rick Scibelli.

ORGANIZATION FARM TO TABLE “Farm to Table collaborates with dozens of partners across the state to ensure every man, woman, and child in New Mexico has access to healthy food. They advocate for equity and fairness in our food system with education and policy development.”

Natalie Bovis, photo courtesy of The Liquid Muse.


edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

Farm to School program from Farm to Table. Photo courtesy of Farm to Table.

OLLA AWARD (LOCAL HERO AWARD) CHERIE MONTOYA, FARM & TABLE “Cherie is a New Mexico gem. She embodies the spirit of community. She is dedicated to educating New Mexicans on quality food choices while preserving the past and embracing the future. She has vision and dedication for her customers, community, and family. She is a model for excellence for girls, women, and the farmer in us all. Way to go, Cherie!”

Cherie Montoya, photo courtesy of Farm & Table.


to all our 2017 winners.




Creamy and Chocolatey VILLA MYRIAM COFFEE BRINGS NITRO COLD BREW TO NEW MEXICO By Robin Babb · Photos by Stacey Mustard Adams


edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

David Certain runs between two coffee roasters, checking each batch for color and smell, at the Villa Myriam Coffee roastery in north Albuquerque. The beans have only been roasting for a few minutes when I arrive and are still a light blond. It smells amazing. “That was my first roaster, when I was just doing really small batches,” says Certain, pointing to a small metal device between the two roasters. It looks like a Sputnik-era satellite, gathering dust between the two hulking, modern machines that are controlled by iPads. Back then, Certain still had a full-time job at Verizon, and spent late nights roasting coffee and driving it to Parq Central Hotel, his first client. “I had to drive the coffee there at two, three in the morning,” he says, “so the coffee would be fresh for the morning and wouldn’t have time to suck up all the other kitchen smells.” Certain began roasting in 2010, but his ties with coffee go back much further. He and his brother Juan Certain grew up in Colombia near the hills of Piendamó, a region known for growing quality coffee beans. The brothers frequently visited their grandfather’s coffee farm in Piendamó, where they learned to harvest the coffee berries when they were ripe and drank farm-fresh coffee from a young age. Their grandfather named the farm after one of his daughters: Villa Myriam.

Certain gets most of his coffee beans from his grandfather’s farm in Colombia, and each of the coffees that he roasts is single-source. Villa Myriam has earned certifications from both UTZ and Rainforest Alliance as an environmentally and socially responsible producer. Certain and his grandfather treat their employees and their land well: all the harvesters working at Villa Myriam receive a living wage, and many of them live with their families on the farm. “I know the names of the people who picked this coffee,” says Certain. “I grew up with many of them.” In 2013, Villa Myriam began crafting nitro cold brew, a cold-brewing technique that only a few other coffee roasters in the US had experimented with at the time. It involves brewing coffee for many hours at near-freezing temperatures and then infusing it with nitrogen. Freshly poured, it looks like Guinness, with a tan, cascading head. Villa Myriam doesn’t add any sweeteners or preservatives to their nitro cold brew, so the freshly canned nitro must stay refrigerated. Although the coffee remains stable for many months, Certain recommends that you drink it within a week of purchase for the best flavor. You can buy small eight-ounce cans of it at all of the Albuquerque La Montañita Co-Op and Whole Foods locations and several

Opposite page, top: David and Juan Certain. Opposite page, bottom: Creamy and chocolately nitro brew. Below: Villa Myriam headquarters.

Top left: David examines the product. Top right: Nitro brew with a foamy head. Bottom left: Checking coffee beans for color during the roasting process.

other cafés, restaurants, and grocery stores in and around Albuquerque. The nitro cold brew tastes creamy and chocolatey, and has much less of an acidic bite than iced coffee usually does. It’s concentrated and has about the same amount of caffeine as three cups of regular coffee, so it’s wise to consume it in small doses. The Villa Myriam Nitro Cold Brew is tasty on its own, and even better with a spoonful of raw sugar. Certain says he has poured it over ice cream and stirred it into cocktails. Marble Brewery even used it to make their dark-as-night Stout Americano beer. As a coffee drinker who typically doesn’t go near iced coffee, I was surprised to find the nitro very good. 16

edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

Three years ago, Villa Myriam opened their downtown coffee shop, The Brew. Certain calls it the “laboratory” for Villa Myriam— when they want to test new products or ideas, they start there. The Brew is where Villa Myriam began selling their own customblended teas, and it’s the only place you can get their nitro coffee straight from a tap, which is particularly satisfying. Their custom coffee and tea lattes are popular—the lavender honey latte, made with lavender from the Los Poblanos farm in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, is fantastic. The Brew is also where Villa Myriam started testing a new nitro product: cold brew tea. They began selling nitro cold brew tea in January 2017, and they offer a handful of different varieties, including a green tea and a caffeine-free hibiscus tea.

Villa Myriam also expanded in January, moving into a larger location for roasting and brewing their nitro coffee and teas, with an attached café area. Certain hopes to impart a Seattle vibe in the new facility, where people can watch the coffee being roasted while they sip their lattes. A spot like this is a first for Albuquerque, but Certain is clearly unafraid to be the first to do anything. With their rapid growth and continued love of experimentation, Villa Myriam may be poised to give Burque a place of its own on the US coffee map. 311 Gold SW, Albuquerque 2420 Midtown NE, Suite H, Albuquerque





From the Source FARM & TABLE KEEPS IT FRESH By Candolin Cook · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Top: Breakfast tacos with carne adovada, mashed potatoes, and farm eggs. Bottom left: Carrie Eagle and Tracy Johnson. Bottom right: Trio of ice creams—Burqueño Road ice cream, blueberry sorbet, and butter pecan. 18

edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

On any given weekend morning, you will find the dining room and patio at Albuquerque’s Farm & Table seated to capacity. Flaky biscuits smothered in green chile sausage gravy are set next to platters of freshly baked sticky buns and heavenly clouds of brioche French toast and whipped cream. Guests sip mimosas while gazing out onto the restaurant’s resident farm, Sol Harvest. The scene is bucolic and elegant, relaxing yet lively. “Brunch has become an enormous part of our identity,” says Carrie Eagle, Farm & Table’s executive chef. “We can have the same number of guests in two days of brunch as we do in four nights of dinner.” Farm & Table’s brunch menu, like their dinner fare, changes regularly, sometimes daily, to accommodate whatever fruits, vegetables, and foraged finds local farmers bring to the kitchen’s back door. The restaurant boasts that eighty percent of its ingredients—produce, meat, eggs, dairy, flour—at any time are local. Understandably, Eagle finds this commitment both inspiring and challenging. “There’s a lot of math involved with my job,” Eagle says. “When you’re dealing with big-volume farms or fooddelivery companies you can make one call and order twenty-five pounds of chard. But when you’re working with dozens of small local farms, you might get eight pounds from Sol Harvest before they’re tapped out, then you need ten from Chispas Farm, and another five from Vida Verde,” Eagle explains. “Then, if there’s a hard frost, there might not be any chard at all, and you have to totally rethink that week’s menu. But that’s at the heart of what we do: we are creative, resourceful, and we represent what New Mexico has to offer.” Eagle’s right-hand woman at Farm & Table is baker and pastry chef Tracy Johnson. Johnson grew up cooking northern New Mexican cuisine with her mother and grandmother, and Eagle will often consult her on regional dishes. “I taught Chef my family’s red chile recipe (you’ve got to roast your dried chile pods slightly before you blend),” says Johnson, “and if Chef is trying to figure something out, she’ll ask, ‘What would your mom do?’” Eagle says Johnson’s culinary heritage is why Farm & Table has the “best biscochitos in town.” She divulges, “Adding some liqueur makes them unbelievably flaky and crisp.” While Eagle designs Farm & Table’s much celebrated brunch and dinner menus, Johnson’s pastry, bread, and dessert creations can be real show-stoppers (think prickly pear cream puffs and pumpkin cheesecake). Her personal favorite is her Burqueño Road ice cream, which features housemade marshmallow fluff, chocolate, red chile caramel, and piñons. Like Eagle, Johnson must work within the confines of what is local, seasonal, and available. “We had a bumper year for stone fruit, which was great,” says Johnson. “But Chef and I were both hurting for winter squash, which failed all over the city.” Both chefs took a non-traditional path into fine dining. Eagle had a career in early childhood education before entering the restaurant world as a busser. By age twenty-seven, she had helped start JC’s New York Pizza Department in Albuquerque. With no formal training, she began to work her way up the culinary ladder, eventually managing and cooking for some of the finest

Rocky Mountain Seed Alliance and Rocky Mountain Farmers Union Present

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March 2nd Field Trip Tesuque Pueblo Farm and Seed Bank n $65

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BEING THER E an extraordinary shop

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Trio of pastries served for brunch and created by Pastry Chef Tracy Johnson.

establishments in town: Savoy, Taste Catering, Desert Fish, Hotel Andaluz. Before joining Farm & Table in 2015, she headed Colorado’s Dunton Hot Springs Resort restaurant, but she found herself missing New Mexico and looking for a certain type of professional dynamic. “I turned down other job offers so I could work in a team environment [at Farm & Table],” says Eagle. Johnson was an art studio major at UNM before joining CNM’s culinary program. Johnson says baking is able to scratch her artistic itch, while being a more reliable profession than fine art. Johnson’s been at Farm & Table from nearly its beginning in 2012, and says what keeps her there is the creative collaboration and camaraderie she experiences with Eagle, owner Cherie Montoya, and the rest of their team—including talented sous chefs Gabe Perez and Melanie Sanchez, who execute the brunch shifts. Having an educational component for her staff is important to Eagle. “If the kitchen is excited, that energy yields a better plate of food. That’s why your grandma’s food always tastes so good. It comes from love,” she says. Johnson concurs, “I’ve never worked in a place where people honestly care so much about each other. There’s a real sense of family.” Eagle and Johnson’s humble, no-nonsense demeanors stand in contrast to many other chefs who wear their egos on their coat sleeves. I ask 20

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if they think Farm & Table’s supportive culture has anything to do with having a female-headed kitchen in a restaurant owned by a woman. “I think you could say at Farm & Table there’s an element of women empowering women, but really it’s people empowering people.” When I ask if they’ve experienced discrimination in this male-dominated field, Johnson tells me a couple unpleasant anecdotes, and says that’s one of the reasons she loves this kitchen so much: “Everyone here focuses on work ethic and talent.” Eagle shrugs and says she doesn’t really like the question because “I don’t have a chip on my shoulder about it.” But she admits, “Sure, coming up I experienced resentment from guys who didn’t want to be shown up by a ‘girl.’ But I didn’t get hung up on that. I’ve proved myself.” Supporting each other and the food community at large are central to Farm & Table’s values. Despite the “unending parade of obstacles” Eagle experiences juggling dozens of local food producers and an ever-changing menu, she says it’s all worth it. “You can’t beat local quality. Serving tomatoes still warm from the sun, greens that have never seen the inside of a refrigerator…I want the best possible experience for my guests.” You can certainly taste that sentiment on the plate, any time of day. 8917 Fourth Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-503-7124

Steep a cup of Yogi tea and you have something more than delicious. Every intriguing blend of herbs and botanicals is on a mission, supporting energy, stamina, clarity, immunity, tranquility, cleansing or unwinding.

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Every cup is a gift to mind, body and spirit.





Hotel for Hens

ANIMAL WELFARE APPROVED EGGS AT EL PINTO By Sophie Putka · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Marc Quiñones feeds El Pinto's chickens wheatgrass in the Hen Hotel.

Today is a special day at El Pinto. The hens have started laying green eggs. One pastel-hued specimen sits on the table in front of Jim Thomas, co-owner of the New Mexican food powerhouse, as he describes El Pinto’s recent egg-laying program and their new Animal Welfare Approved (AWA) certification. 22

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El Pinto Restaurant and Cantina, long a beloved favorite of tourists and local chile-lovers alike, is the first restaurant in the nation using their own on-site Animal Welfare Approved pasture raised eggs. The AWA certification has extremely high standards for farm animal welfare and is determined by an independent evaluation.

It is also incredibly rare. According to the Organic Consumers Association, ninetyeight percent of eggs come from factory farms, and labels like free range and cage free rarely guarantee more humane treatment of chickens. Pasture raised is the only term that ensures animal welfare and nutritional change within the egg.

For Jim and his brother John Thomas, the project fits naturally into their philosophy of healthy, homegrown New Mexican cuisine. “We’re all about serving the healthiest food we can locate,” Jim Thomas says. “We’re in a situation where we can influence people and educate them on what nutritional food is, and I think it’s our responsibility to do that as leaders in the food business.” El Pinto can seat over one thousand people at a time, with seven outdoor patios and five dining rooms. They grow their own chiles in Hatch using organic growing principles, without using herbicides, fungicides or pesticides. El Pinto’s on-site chile factory produces two thousand cases of their signature chile sauces a day to sell at national retail giants like Wal-Mart and Smiths. With success on such a large scale, the Thomas twins decided to take their operation a step further and build what is known as the Hen Hotel. Tucked away on El Pinto’s thirteenacre property, the Hen Hotel houses two hundred chickens and produces over one hundred eggs a day. This is enough for the kitchen to use farm fresh pasture-raised eggs in all the entrées and in their recently revamped Sunday brunch. There’s even a “chicken cam” in the lobby that shows the happy hens in real time as customers wait to be seated. At the Hen Hotel, the chickens lay eggs in specially built laying boxes, with ample space outside to roam free on pasture. AWA standards dictate that hens must have a generous allotment of space when indoors, and access to pasture at all times. De-beaking and confinement in small cages is prohibited, and chickens must be able to perform natural activities like dust baths and roosting. This treatment pays off: humanely raised chickens in a pasture environment lay eggs that boast lower levels of unhealthy fats and higher concentrations of vitamins, according to a study by Penn State. Marc Quiñones, El Pinto’s newly hired executive chef, is just as enthusiastic about the egg program as Thomas. He says El Pinto’s dedication to clean food and local sourcing is a big part of what

drew him to the position. He recently redesigned the brunch menu, where the pasture-raised fresh eggs are featured front and center. Quiñones noticed an immediate change in quality. “You think you know what an egg is,” he says. “And then you have one of these eggs, and it’s like ‘everything I thought I knew about eggs was wrong.’” New dishes like the house-made chorizo frittata and the banana French toast, with house-made bacon, have been popular. “The French toast is so good. It’s light, it’s airy…these eggs just make a better batter,” Quiñones says. “It sounds so simple but it’s real.” The Thomas brothers and their staff have quietly undertaken significant measures over time to ensure the dishes they serve are as “clean” and nutritious as possible. Beans are lard-free and embellished with only celtic sea salt. The kitchen has organic rice for sides and the chile sauces are vegan. But for a restaurant that can go through three tons of food a night, supply is often a challenge. Local farms can rarely supply the sheer quantity of food that El Pinto serves. But Quiñones and Doug Evisizor, El Pinto’s director of marketing and public relations, have plans to showcase more locally-sourced foods. Soon, they will be launching a chef ’s menu, an offering of seasonal fare chosen by Quiñones and created with produce from the El Pinto greenhouse and other nearby farms. Their vision is to make El Pinto more sustainable and ethical while upholding its rich history. Evisizor says, “We use the phrase ‘tradition with innovation.’” He added, “New Mexican cuisine was the original farm-to-table food. It was simple food, it was grown out back, the chile made it exciting.” For now, chickens at El Pinto continue to get the royal treatment, even taking occasional trips to the greenhouse to forage for insects. “In the summertime we give them watermelon for a treat,” Thomas says. “They’re happy chickens.” 10500 Fourth Street NW, Albuquerque 505-898-1771,

BACK TO OUR ROOTS! Payne’s Nursery Has Heirloom Seeds and Grows a Variety of Heirloom Vegetables. Choose from our large selection of fresh & organic 2017 seeds available NOW!

Santa Fe’s Nursery Experts! • Locally grown vegetables & herbs • Lots of heirloom tomatoes & peppers • Professional & knowledgeable staff

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Bubbles in the Desert GRUET WINERY

By Marjory Sweet · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Left: Cynar Mimosa cocktail; see recipe on page 80. Right: Poire William champagne cocktail; go online to for recipe.

When Laurent Gruet describes the process of making sparkling wine, it sounds less like a set of instructions and more like a favorite song. In quick cadence and a thick French accent, he guides you through the essential steps: midsummer harvest, pressing the grapes, bottling the wine, aging the wine, adding the yeast, triage, dosage, and voilà. It is difficult for Laurent to pinpoint the moment he internalized how to make sparkling wine, as it came to him as more of a birthright than a chosen craft. “When you are from Champagne, it’s everywhere, it’s part of life,” he says. Laurent says he was probably five years old when he had his first taste of his family’s vintage, “and the next year, a little bit more.” Laurent grew up around the winery and the winery grew up around him. In 1952, Gilbert Gruet, Laurent’s father, first began experimenting with champagne. He dreamed of producing on a large scale. This ambition led to the formation of the UVCB, a co-op in his village, Bethon. Gilbert mentored his son from a young 24

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age, and Laurent started formally working for the family at age sixteen. He can recall early memories of his father explaining the way yeast multiplies, transforming still wine into the sparkling beverage of his heritage. In 1984, Gilbert moved his family to New Mexico in search of vineyard land abroad. The family toured Texas and California before settling in New Mexico, which was considerably more affordable. With seed grapes from California, processing equipment from France, and Chihuahuan desert soil, the Gruet family began producing near Truth or Consequences. In 1987, Gruet produced two thousand cases. Since that time, the family has expanded its production with two additional vineyards: Luna Rossa, also in southern New Mexico, and another on the Santa Ana Pueblo. Last year, Gruet produced roughly 2.4 million bottles. When most out-of-staters think of New Mexico, they imagine a dry, hot, unforgiving place, a land where vegetation is prickly or non-

existent. When the Gruet family came to New Mexico, however, they saw a unique opportunity in the arid heat. “It was perfect,” Laurent recalls, because “less moisture meant less rot.” The Gruet family would not have to contend with the complications of humidity and could therefore count on a more consistent harvest. The cool desert nights were also beneficial; the drop in temperature slows the maturation of the grape, controlling acidity.

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Laurent’s intimacy with the family vineyard is distinctive to Gruet. “True champagne is raised by hand,” Laurent tells me. He notes the importance of grape variety (Gruet grows chardonnay and pinot noir exclusively) and full cluster pressing. “It’s done very gently,” he says. “It makes a huge difference.” For Laurent, the ultimate way to enjoy a glass of champagne is by itself, “as an apéritif, when your palate is clear.” If taken alongside food, Laurent prefers seafood, particularly oysters. “For my birthday, always,” he says. When asked how the culture of drinking sparkling wine has changed throughout Gruet’s history, Laurent notes its growing popularity as an everyday drink, no longer reserved only for Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and birthdays. Now, we are just as likely to order a glass of sparkling as a glass of red when out to casual dinner on a weeknight. Despite its diffusion into mainstream food and drink culture, champagne will forever symbolize celebration. A glass can turn an ordinary ritual—weekend breakfast, for example—into something special. A bracing, pre-noon bubbly (with or without orange juice) is the ideal contrast to buttery French toast, salty bacon, and sugary pastries. Champagne is probably best loved at breakfast in the form of a mimosa. The origins of the mimosa stretch back to the 1920’s in Britain, where a bartender at London’s Buck’s Club served the Buck’s Fizz. The simple drink was made of two parts champagne and one part orange juice. It was a simple excuse to encourage drinking early in the day. In 1925, the Hôtel Ritz in Paris officially created the mimosa, made with equal parts champagne and citrus juice. The name likely came from the Acacia dealbata (mimosa) flower, whose delicate cascade of pale yellow blooms resemble the effervescent trails in a glass of champagne. Gruet honors the tradition—and current popularity—of mimosas with occasional mimosa bar events held at one of their tasting rooms in Albuquerque or Santa Fe. Here, you can sample various fresh juices and syrups mixed with Gruet’s sparkling varieties. It is a good way to learn whether you’re more of a Buck’s traditionalist (more champagne) or a Ritz purist (sweeter). In addition to his passion for sparkling wine, Laurent has a great love for still wine. He is most excited about producing a still rosé for Gruet: “Like what we drink on warm summer evenings in France,” he says. Gruet’s Brut Rosé is wildly popular; no doubt a still equivalent would be equally successful. Laurent is proud of the vineyard, history, and business he and his family have cultivated in the Southwest. He hopes Gruet can serve as an example of the potential for growth, of all kinds, in New Mexico. We can all toast to that.

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Enchanted Sours TASTING NEW MEXICO'S SOUR BEER SELECTION By Joshua Johnson · Photos by Rick Scibelli

Top and bottom right: John Rowley, brewmaster at Rowley Farmhouse Ales, checks on a young rye saison. Bottom left: Reclaimed wine barrels (including pinot noir, chardonnay, and cabernet) hold tart saisons in the basement of Rowley Farmhouse Ales. 26

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I’m a creature of habit. I’m not proud of that fact, but I know this about myself. My beer preferences make no exception; hoppy has always been the rule. However, tasked to write about local sour beers, I sidelined my go-to IPA and set my compass northward to Rowley Farmhouse Ales in Santa Fe, the brainchild of three partners: Head Brewer John Rowley, Chef Jeff Kaplan, and Los Alamos chemist Derek Williams. With their focus on barrel-soured beers, over twenty rotating taps, and quarterly pairing classes, I couldn’t have chosen a more suitable locale to begin my gustatory journey. My sour initiation began with a sour beer and cheese pairing class hosted by Rowley Farmhouse Ales and co-taught by certified cheese professional Sasha Anderson of Cheesemongers of Santa Fe. Together with a good friend, I found myself seated among thirty other participants, surrounded by Rowley’s newly installed seven barrel brewing system. Williams introduced the evening by serving our first taster: Blackberry Sour Wench, a clean and refreshing Berliner Weisse from Ballast Point Brewery in San Diego. Described as a “great bridge beer into the sour styles,” Berliner Weisse beers add Lactobacillus bacteria to the mash, which reduces the pH and gives the beer a crisp tart finish. Sometimes called quick sours or kettle sours, lacto-soured

beers take relatively little time to sour and behave reliably, but they are only the tip of the iceberg that is sour beer. The most memorable moment of the evening was when we were served Rowley’s own Haole Kook, a Berliner Weisse aged on ripe pineapples. At first sip, the ale was predominantly tart, but the second taste, which followed a sample of aged Manchego, caused our eyes to widen. We looked at one another and exclaimed, as our palates had both undeniably shifted. Ripe pineapple replaced tart in the flavor profile and the case for sours was made. We then tried New Belgium Brewery’s La Folie, a three-year-aged sour brown. Unlike the aforementioned beers, which rely on the addition of the souring Lactobacillus bacteria to the mash, this beer is a type of sour that relies on adding dogged Brettanomyces yeast strains to aging barrels to slowly sour beer that has already been fermented with brewer’s yeast. This type of beer can take as many as three years to fully sour and mature. Though temperamental, this souring method produces more complexity and “funk” over time—exactly what Rowley is passionately pursuing. As the evening continued, our palates were delightfully teased in all directions. Each beer, paired with two cheeses,

If you love crepes...

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Bring your valentine in for a Valentine Crepe made with Strawberries and Bavarian Creme or Cream Cheese filling. Be an early bird and come in from Saturday, February 11 thru Tuesday, February 14 for our Valentine’s Day special. Escape to Limonata’s for our fresh Crepes. Choose from a variety of sweet or savory crepes. Try our new Breakfast Crepe filled with roasted potatoes, eggs, green chile, and cheese. Add some sausage for the sausage lovers. Our crepes are fresh, healthy, and made the way you like them.



Wes Keener, left, tends the bar at Rowley Farmhouse Ales.

3222 Silver Avenue SE, Albuquerque 505.266.0607 •

Duel's sours pair nicely with their delicatessen offerings. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

unveiled hidden personalities. We tasted mixed fermentation sours, aged stouts, and even a cider paired with Dunbarton Blue and a traditional Camembert Fermier. Ultimately, the evening was a huge success—so much so that I’ve been back since, and can’t wait to make another trip.

split a bottle of the newly arrived, barrelsoured Séraphine, Darby shed light on the process of barrel souring, likening the inoculated aging barrels to personalities—both unique and unpredictable. Flavors of plum, sherry, and sour cherry surfaced amid the wild yeast complexity.

If you live in Albuquerque and only make it to Santa Fe on rare occasions but would like to try some locally brewed sours, you’re in luck. Duel Brewing now has a taproom located downtown on Central Avenue. Described as a Belgian-style brewery, Duel has their Judith, a kettle-soured beer, and a selection of barrel-soured beers both on tap and in bottles. Sweeney Darby, head of distribution, and Manager Milo Carrejo graciously walked me through a recent tasting. As we

Albuquerque will also soon have a brewery with a barrel-souring program to call its own. Scheduled to open in spring 2017, Steel Bender Brewyard (technically in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque) will be directed by one of my favorite professional brewers, Bob Haggerty. Steel Bender Brewyard has been in the works for five years now and they’re leaving no detail unresolved. On a recent tour of the site, Haggerty talked of the painstaking measures they are taking to


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provide the perfect environment for barrel aging while minimizing any chance for an unwanted Brettanomyces contamination. In addition to these sour-focused breweries, local breweries such as Dialogue, Canteen, La Cumbre, Santa Fe Brewing Company, and Marble periodically debut kettle-soured styles. In fact, after a month spent sampling these unique tart beers, I’ve found that I am leaving the IPA on the shelf and delighting in the unique sours New Mexico has to offer. 1405 Maclovia, Santa Fe 505-428-0719, 1352 Rufina Circle, Santa Fe, 505-396-6369 606 Central SW, Albuquerque, 505-508-3330,


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Left: Visiting with baby cows. Top right: Mama cow cleans her fifteen-minute-old baby. Bottom right: More baby cows!


By Natalie Bovis ¡ Photos by Stephanie Cameron Who knew New Mexico was one of the largest dairy producers in the country? I didn’t until the Digging In team headed to Clovis. Like many food-lovers, I want to explore the sources of what I eat and drink. At family-owned Mid Frisian Dairy, everything from birthing calves to delivering product to the stores is a personal experience. During our dairy tour, we met several generations of happy cows and saw one being born!

Netherlands from which they emigrated, and a beloved cow named Anna.

Around 2005, multi-generation Dutch dairy farmers Andle and Sjierkje van der Ploeg settled in southern New Mexico with their children, who now continue to expand the family legacy. Our video focuses specifically on their newest milky endeavor, European-style yoghurt. The name Freanna is a combination of Friesland, the province of the

Watch the newest episode of Digging In to meet the family and their cows, and to learn about what may be the best yoghurt I have ever tasted!


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Sjierkje grew up eating yoghurt made by her mother, and then made it for her family. Marketing the yoghurt is the pet project of her daughter, Karla, who is definitely onto something with her quest to share the silky, healthy, decadent yoghurt packed with probiotics and crafted in small batches.

Visit to watch now.

Top: Natalie Bovis on set with Karla van der Ploeg. Middle: Cameraman Walt Cameron inside the dairy with Andle van der Ploeg. Bottom: Cameron rides the front loader to get the shot.


Dig & Serve pop-up at Meow Wolf’s House of Eternal Return. Guests gather around an eighteen-inch-wide by forty-five-foot-long table inside the Glow Forest for the first two seated courses. Photo by Sean Poitras.

Inspiring Community DINNER EVENTS POP-UP ALL OVER NEW MEXICO By Zoey Fink New Mexico is hosting an explosion of pop-up dinners. These unique gatherings, which have grown in popularity throughout the country over the past decade, focus on fresh produce; unique locations; collaboration between farmers, artists, chefs, foodies, and musicians; and the stories intertwined with the food that we eat and the way it is prepared. Many different people and groups have hosted events this year, including Silver Leaf Farms, Bow & Arrow Brewing, Women & Creativity, Wild Leaven Bakery, Boyd & Allister, and the Downtown Growers’ Market. Two standouts are Dig & Serve and the dinner series hosted by farmers Marjory Sweet and Seth Matlick. The Dig & Serve team, Brandon Gregoire and Robert Hoberg, are innovators in the Albuquerque pop-up dinner scene. They strive to create immersive dining experiences in unique locations, including Zendo Coffee, Bow & Arrow Brewery, 516 Gallery, Meow Wolf, and Levitated Toy Factory. “We try to select venues that people have not eaten at before; galleries, breweries, fashion shows, art exhibit spaces, farms, etc. The additional visual stimulation of eating in a place that typically does 32

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not offer a dining setting adds another level of sensory excitement,” said Gregoire. The Meow Wolf dinner last November seated more than a hundred guests throughout the venue, from the neon Ghost Town to a long table in the aquarium-like Glow Forest. Each table showcased an installation centerpiece by local artists. Performers danced throughout the exhibit while guests munched on delights such as fresh corn polenta; beet-infused pasta; and cantaloupe drizzled with honey, basil, and red pepper. The night ended with an explosive performance by Cloacas accompanying a dance party for guests and crew. The Dig & Serve events do a imaginative job of integrating local art and creative spirit into distinct locations with unique partners. “Incorporating artistic elements is crucial to providing a memorable guest experience,” said Gregoire, “from musicians and visual artists, to chefs and physical performance artists, to guests and beyond. Each event is unique and our opportunities to collaborate with new people in the community are continually growing.” Gregoire and Hoberg use as many local ingredients as possible in their dinners. “If you care about freshness and flavor, you'll respond to whatever is being grown





201 7



In celebration of the creativity of all women, we invite you to dine with great women artists: chefs, dancers, potters, musicians, farmers, and others during two unique pop-up events.

Pop-Up dinners feature a potters collaborative: Maggie Mae Beyeler of Maggie Pottery, Jen DePaolo, Lauren Karle Ceramics, Betsy Williams. All pieces will be served on and available for purchase at the event.

Very limited seating. Register now! Farm & Table • Maple Street Dance Space • Sol Harvest Farm • The Liquid Muse • Zendo Coffee • Artful Tea • Milagro Vineyards • Food + Drink

Carrie Eagle • Kate Wheeler • Maryse Lapierre • Romy Keegan • Aimee Conlee • Cherie Montoya • Allison Ramirez • Stephanie Cameron

A Place at the Table

Tuesday, March 7 | 6:30pm Heidi’s Raspberry Commercial Kitchen, Albuquerque Food is inherently sensory. It engages our senses every step of the way—we procure, prepare, salivate, and savor. But more importantly, food is social. Join us at the table as we take you on an exploration of all the senses during this pop-up dinner served up by chef Carrie Eagle.

The Art of Conversation

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in the area,” Hoberg said. Sourcing from New Mexico growers such as Silver Leaf, Valle Encantado, Mago Farm, Wagner Farms, and Red Tractor Farm, the team values collaboration with those who are cultivating land in the fertile Rio Grande Valley. In February 2016, Marjory Sweet of Otter Farm and Seth Matlick of Vida Verde Farm started a series of farm-to-table pop-up dinners at Downtown Albuquerque’s Bosque Baking Company. The dinners gained instant success, with tickets selling out within a couple days of the next dinner’s announcement. To local foodies, the dinners are appealing not only because of the exclusive and delicious menus, but also for the locally sourced produce that make up the ingredients in each dish. Sweet has a deep-rooted connection to the use of local pro34

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duce in her own life. “Stocking my own kitchen is, admittedly, one of my primary motivations to grow food,” she said. “Farming informs what I cook and cooking informs my farming. It makes sense to me to consider both elements as part of my job.” Matlick’s passion for food began at a young age. “Eating and cooking and enjoying working with food seemed to naturally lead me from the kitchen to the field to see where and how my ingredients are grown. These dinners are so satisfying for me. I feel like I am finally bringing together all the pieces into one meal by planting the seeds, planning the menu, tending to my crops, creating an event, harvesting the food, and finally cooking and serving a beautiful and delicious meal to friends, neighbors, and community members.”


Sweet went on to explain how the dinners also create an outlet for the use of excess food. Instead of allowing extra produce to go to waste, Sweet and Matlick use it to their advantage. “Instead of dumping an extra ten pounds of carrots in the chicken coop,” Sweet explained, “I can take those carrots, prepare them in a way that interests me, and feed people. This way, people get a taste of something new—or something familiar cooked in a new way—which hopefully generates excitement about the possibilities of local produce.” That being said, the dinners are not only used to provide delicious meals in the moment, but to cultivate a community that finds inspiration in locally sourced products and environmentally conscious action. But how do the farmers’ dinners differ from other pop-ups appearing around Albuquerque? “I think Seth and I are doing something unique,” said Sweet. “The raw ingredients we use are planted, harvested, cooked, and served by us. Last year, we incorporated dairy, grains, meat, herbs, flowers, and, of course, fruits and vegetables that we raised by hand.” Each pop-up dinner has its unique perspective, but these farmer prepared meals embody the true definition of farm-to-table. As for the future of their increasingly popular dinner series, Sweet and Matlick say they have “found a new venue that can accommodate a few more diners while still keeping our meals intimate in size.” Matlick says, “Marjory and I are currently buying seeds for our farms and planting some special crops just for our dinners. We are also planning on collaborating with some other local craftsmen, such as Hanselmann Pottery, to continue making the focus of our meals about the amazing and diverse community we farm and live in.” Personally, I have been involved in the pop-up dinner craze as a crew member, diner, and organizer this past year. From working as a server at a multitude of Dig & Serve events, to organizing a popup brunch with the Downtown Growers’ Market in the middle of Central Avenue, to sharing beautiful meals and conversation with loved ones at Sweet and Matlick’s dinners, I have been touched by the hard work, vibrant energy, and creative vision that these events inspire. Food is such a powerful force in building community and sparking conversations, and these events are all representative of that in their own distinct way. Opposite page, top left, clockwise: SWGLA and Bow & Arrow Brewery's Husk & Horn pop-up dinner; menu from Horn & Husk pop-up; “ode to carrots” by Seth Matlick and Marjory Sweet, served during pop-up at Bosque Baking Co.; Women & Creativity pop-up at Sanitary Tortilla Factory with custom place settings and snip-your-own garnish. Photos courtesy of edible. Learn about Dig & Serve's upcoming pop-ups at To receive information about Sweet and Matlick's upcoming dinners, email

JOIN US at the next Women & Creativity pop-up series this March. Edible, in conjunction with many other community partners, will produce two special one-ofa-kind events in both Albuquerque and Santa Fe. For more info and tickets go to


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For the Love of

Brunch By Candolin Cook · Recipes by Seth Matlick Photos by Stephanie Cameron


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uring this time of year, when the days are short and the air is icy, it’s often difficult to get out of the house and connect with friends. For many of us, this winter has been especially dark. So for this installment of Cooking Fresh, my husband and I decided to let some light in. We enlisted our pal, event planner and stylist Amy Gallegos, to help us throw a charming, farm-to-table brunch for a few of our friends. Designing a brunch or dinner party is a fun way to express your creativity, and breaking bread with others is a wonderful opportunity to bond and take stock of the beauty in life, friends, and food. I first met Gallegos, who owns For the Love Events and Rust Vintage rentals, while planning my wedding. Her ability to transform any space into something chic and beautiful always impresses me, as does her commitment to utilizing local, organic materials and collaborating with other creative New Mexico women. For our brunch, Gallegos combined the minimalism of our winter desert landscape with the pops of vibrant color found in our menu: deep yellow egg yolks, speckled radicchio, golden honey, and watermelon radish. She set the table with an eclectic assortment of vintage stoneware plates, earthenware mugs and vases, and turmeric-yellow napkins and goblets. “I think mismatching dish and flatware feels cozy and is visually stimulating. When it comes to my inventory, I’m a hunter and a gatherer. If you go thrifting and something catches your eye and the price is right, get it, even if you don’t know what you’re going to do with it yet. Trust your instincts,” she advises. While we can't all be professional event

stylists, Gallegos says there are some simple things any of us can do to elevate our party and create a warm and inviting space. “My philosophy is to take everyday, attainable materials and use them in unexpected ways.” Case in point: the simple driftwood branch she suspended above the table. “I’m constantly foraging,” says Gallegos. “Bringing the outside in, especially in the winter when we’re so cooped up, is essential. I’d always rather draw from our seasonal environment than use roses imported from South America. It’s cheaper too!” A couple of other entertaining tips Gallegos suggests are prepping as much as you can ahead of time (for the meal, we made our shashuka sauce, grated potatoes and onions, and cooked the farro the night before) and being intentional with your playlist. “Pick records or tracks that are light, fun, and familiar as well as some more obscure conversation starters,” she says. Hi-Phy Records owner Jenny Phy curated our morning’s soundtrack, which included retro favorites like Patsy Cline and The Ventures, as well as newer LP’s from Methyl Ethyl and Santa Fe’s own Cloacas. “Don’t neglect any of your senses,” says Gallegos. “They all complement each other.” The most important sense for us, of course, is taste. While winter can limit our local produce options, increasingly—thanks to a variety of USDA grants—small local farmers have been able to extend their growing seasons with the help of hoop houses and other structures. So my husband, Seth Matlick of Vida Verde Farm, was able to put together a breakfast bounty that incorporated a variety of seasonal

You’ve known us for cooking classes… now we’d like you to know our market. Sweet…Savory… or Spicy… Whatever you yearn, you will likely find it in our market. Cookbooks and spices, cookware and grills… Fill your pantry with the flavors inspired by the cultures of the Southwest and used by many of Santa Fe’s celebrated chefs. Thank you for recognizing us as,

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Title page: For the Love styled the brunch table in the home of photographer Tish Carlson. Above, clockwise: Centerpiece arranged by Floriography; persimmons detail; Gallegos sprinkles thyme on butter for individual Sage Bakehouse bread loaves.


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local ingredients: frisée, radicchio, fennel, and radishes from his farm; Kyzer Farms pork; New Mexico honey and pecans; Peculiar Farms eggs; and Zendo’s roasted coffee. Gallegos explains that For the Love’s most successful events are ones where everyone is well fed, guests get to try something new, and the food harmonizes with the overall feel of the occasion. Lastly, Gallegos says, “Realize that no event is perfect, so just roll with it if you burn dessert. Make a plan but don’t be rigid, you’ll have a lot more fun.” We had a great time styling, photographing, and eating this meal. We hope you enjoy the spread and it inspires you to host your own brunch this season and to let a little light in.

SHAKSHUKA Serves 4–6

Shakshuka is a hearty family-style breakfast dish of eggs poached in sautéed tomatoes, onions, and peppers. Although from North Africa, it is commonly found throughout the Middle East. I first ate shakshuka while traveling in Israel, where it is eaten as often for lunch or dinner as it is for breakfast. Using fresh, local tomatoes is ideal, but during the winter they can be hard to come by. I prefer using whole canned tomatoes because, according to Kenji Lopez-Alt’s The Food Lab, “Diced tomatoes are packed with extra calcium chloride, which helps them keep their shape even after extended cooking. Whole peeled tomatoes, on the other hand, break down more naturally” during cooking. This dish has many variations, and part of the reason I’m so fond if it is because the recipe is flexible.

It invites creative additions of spices, veggies, and toppings, using this recipe as a starting point. Cold-hardy greens such as kale, chard, and escarole are easy to find locally during the winter months and would make a great addition to the sauce. Note: Shakshuka can be made up to three days ahead, cooking the eggs right before you’re ready to serve. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large yellow onion, chopped 1 red bell pepper, chopped 1 green bell pepper, chopped 1 hot pepper (jalapeño, serrano, etc), seeded and diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon paprika 1/2 tablespoon smoked paprika 1/2 tablespoon cumin 1/2 tablespoon coriander 1 teaspoon red chile powder 1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand Kosher salt and black pepper 4 to 6 eggs Cilantro or parsley Feta, cotija, or other crumbly salty cheese Crusty bread for mopping up sauce Heat an 8- to 10-inch cast-iron pan, or other deep skillet, on medium-high heat. Add oil to skillet and before it begins to smoke add onion, bell peppers, and hot pepper. Spread




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Top left, clockwise: Shakshuka; radicchio and frisĂŠe winter salad; rosti; and homemade breakfast sausage. 40

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evenly in pan and do not stir, allowing peppers and onions to char slightly, for 5 minutes. Stir and repeat one or two times until onions and peppers are soft and browned slightly. Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute, stirring occasionally and not letting the garlic burn. Add dry spices and stir 30 seconds until fragrant. Add tomatoes and juices, crushing by hand right into the pan, and stir to combine everything. Reduce heat and simmer lightly for 10–15 minutes, until slightly thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Starting at the edge of the pan, use a large spoon to push sauce aside; then crack one egg into the space. Continue with the remaining eggs and spoon a little sauce over the whites, leaving the yolk exposed. Reduce heat to lowest setting and cover pan until whites have set and the yolks are at your preferred consistency, 5–10 minutes. Season eggs with a little salt and pepper and sprinkle shakshuka with herbs and cheese and any other toppings of choice (chopped kalamata or oil-cured olives, scallions, diced cured chorizo, or anything else that speaks to you). Serve hot with crusty bread.


Serves 6–8 Potatoes are central to breakfast or brunch meals, whether it’s hash browns, home fries, or roasted spuds smothered in chile and cheese. Making the shakshuka reminded me of eat-

ing in Israel, and with Hanukkah just past, I couldn’t help but think of latkes. Rosti is the Swiss cousin of the latke, typically made by browning grated raw potatoes and onions in a hot skillet and then very carefully sliding onto an inverted plate and returning to the pan without breaking up your beautiful potato cake. This easy recipe uses parcooked potatoes and a cast-iron pan in the oven to get the perfect crispy brown outer layer without the fuss of flipping. I’m affectionately referring to this rosti recipe as the lazy latke and am considering using it for my next Hanukkah party instead of slaving over the stove frying them up individually. Note: The potatoes and onion mixture can be made the day before. Allow to return to room temperature before adding to your hot pan and baking. 4 large russet potatoes, peeled 1 yellow onion, thinly sliced 1/2 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon white vinegar 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil Scallions and parsley (optional) Preheat oven to 425° F and set rack to the lowest position. Parboil potatoes in salted water until slightly tender, about 10–15 minutes. Drain and let rest until cool enough to handle, about 20 minutes. Mix onions, kosher salt, and vinegar, and let onions soften as they sit. Once cool, coarsely grate potatoes using the large holes of a box grater or grater plate of a


Cynar Mimosa: recipe on page 80

Left, clockwise: A local music selection, As in We, from Jenny Phy; Cynar Mimosas with Gruet sparkling wine; guests dig in; vinyl from Hi-Phy Records.


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food processor. Combine potatoes and onions and season with black pepper and salt. Oil a large cast-iron frying pan or an 8-inch cake pan and heat in the oven for 5 minutes. (If using cake pan, make sure it’s thoroughly oiled and line with parchment paper.) Remove hot pan and add potato/onion mixture, pressing down with a spatula or large fork. The mixture should sizzle when it touches the pan. If it doesn’t, return the pan to the oven to heat up longer. Place on bottom rack and bake until sides and bottom are crispy and brown, 45 to 60 minutes. Remove from oven and let rest 5 minutes. Run a knife around the edge of the pan to loosen rosti and then invert onto a cutting board, plate, or serving platter. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt, scallions, and parsley to serve.


Makes 6–8 patties

I love bacon, truly, but breakfast sausage, with maple and sage and all the right spices, is the king of breakfast meats. This recipe is very easy, scales up well, and patties can be made a couple nights ahead or weeks earlier and frozen until ready to use. Again, feel free to mix up the seasoning you prefer! 2 teaspoons fennel seed 2 teaspoons red chile flakes 2 tablespoons sage, finely chopped 1 tablespoon thyme, finely chopped

3 tablespoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 pound local ground pork 1/4 cup maple syrup Combine fennel seeds and red chile flakes and crush with mortar and pestle or spice grinder. Combine with herbs, brown sugar, and dry spices. Add to ground pork and mix thoroughly. Add maple syrup and mix again. Cook a tablespoon of mixture in a hot pan to test the seasoning. Adjust to taste. Form thin patties, about a 1/4 inch thick, with roughly 1/4 cup of mixture (they will plump as they cook). Cook in a skillet over medium high heat until brown, about 2 minutes per side.


This season, my farm built two hoop houses, a type of lowtech green house used for extending our growing season to year-round. This is the first winter since I started the farm in 2009 that we have had veggies into the deep cold of December and January. Vida Verde Farm is not the only




Above, clockwise: Selection of vintage stoneware and earthenware from Rust Vintage; Zendo coffee; farro pudding with spiced pecans. 44

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farm now growing veggies during the winter, and it’s easier than ever to buy great local produce in what has typically been our off season. Radicchio and frisée are two of the hearty salad greens we are growing this winter, but they can be substituted with other greens, like romaine lettuce and red Russian kale. Crispy tart apples, salty pork, and sweet crunchy fennel—another cold-tolerant crop we have all winter—pair really well with the slightly bitter greens and tangy vinaigrette. 1–2 heads radicchio 1 head frisée 1 bulb fennel 1 apple Handful of radishes, preferably watermelon radish 1/2 pound lardons or slab bacon sliced into 1/2 strips Dijon vinaigrette (recipe to follow) Remove outer leaves from radicchio; wash and dry. Wash and dry frisée and roughly chop with radicchio head and outer leaves. Remove tough stems from the fennel and save the tender greens (or fronds). Slice fennel bulb in half from top to bottom, removing any wilted outer layers, and slice bulb thinly with a mandolin or sharp knife. Slice apple in half, core, and thinly slice half of the apple. Thinly slice radishes. Place fennel and apple slices in cold water with a splash of lemon juice or vinegar to keep crisp and prevent discoloration until ready to use. Cook lardons or bacon over

medium heat, stirring frequently to prevent burning, until most fat has been rendered and they are brown, 5–7 minutes. Drain apples and fennel and toss with greens, radish, and dressing. Top with lardons and fennel fronds. SIMPLE SHAKEN DIJON VINAIGRETTE This is my go-to dressing year-round and it’s very adaptable. The mustard and honey emulsify the dressing, which makes it thick and helps it easily coat the greens. All the ingredients are put into a jar, shaken up and poured right onto your salad. It is easy to make a double or triple batch and store in your fridge for up to two weeks—just set it out to return to room temperature before serving. You can swap out red wine vinegar for balsamic, champagne, or white wine vinegar, and add dried or fresh herbs, shallots, or other aromatics to change this recipe along with the seasons. 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 garlic clove, minced 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon local honey Kosher salt and pepper Add first five ingredients to a Mason jar or container with tight fitting lid. Shake vigorously until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper to taste.



510 Central Ave SE, Albuquerque 505-243-0130 •

424 Central SE, Albuquerque 505-243-0200 •


10721 Montgomery NE, Albuquerque 505-298-0035 •



Serves 4

I’ve recently become a fan of farro, usually cooking it as I do pasta, adding raw farro to boiling salted water and cooking until the desired consistency, then straining. Farro is a great substitute for rice or pasta and can be dressed and treated in the same ways. I like a little sweetness with my brunch but don’t care for anything overly sugary. This recipe is nicely balanced with the nutty farro and local pecans, the sweet dried fruit and brown sugar, and the creamy coconut milk. 1 cup uncooked farro 1/4 dried fruit (we used half golden raisins and half tart cherries) 1 can coconut milk 3 tablespoons brown sugar 1/2 tablespoon cinnamon 1/4 tablespoon vanilla extract 1/4 cup spiced pecans (recipe to follow) Pinch of salt Cook farro according to directions on package (do not add salt to the water). While farro cooks, pour boiling water over the fruit; let soak 5 minutes and drain. Combine cooked farro, fruit, coconut milk, brown sugar, cinnamon, vanilla extract, salt, and half the pecans in a pot. Heat over medium flame until warm throughout. Serve topped with the remaining pecans. 46

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SPICED PECANS 1 pound New Mexico pecan halves or pieces 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon cumin 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon red chile powder 1/4 teaspoon cayenne powder 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1/3 cup brown sugar Preheat oven to 350° F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spread out pecan pieces. Toast until browned slightly and aromatic, about 7–10 minutes. Combine all the dry spices. Pour pecans into a large bowl and toss with melted butter. Add brown sugar and spices and toss until thoroughly mixed. Pour back onto baking sheet and return to the oven for 5 minutes. Let cool completely before storing in airtight container. Will keep for 3 weeks. Above: The brunch crew toasts to a beautiful meal. Head to for an extended photo spread and link to our brunch playlist on Spotify. Follow all the creators of this brunch spread:, @4theloveevents, @rustvintage;, @vidaverdefarmabq;, @floriography_flowers; Hi-Phy Records, @hiphyrecords; Candolin Cook, @candolin; Tish Carlson,, @tishcarlson

Bakery Round-Up Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Burque Bakehouse flakey croissant. 48

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he aroma of something sweet baking in the oven conjures comforting and heartwarming childhood memories for most of us. Visits to the local bakery for a Sunday treat linger into adulthood, and no matter how old we get (or health-conscious, for that matter), it’s difficult to resist the temptation of melt-in-your-mouth croissants, macarons, warm donuts, or savory quiches. New Mexico’s local bakeries are the perfect celebration of breakfast and the craft of food. For this issue, we set out to discover some of our state’s local bakeries, and although this list is by no means comprehensive, it is a sampling of fromscratch delicacies worth seeking out.

Inspiring Santa Fe Diners for over Fifty Years

BIADORA BAKERY Sal Biadora, owner and pastry chef of Biadora Bakery, the only French-Italian patisserie in Santa Fe, is both the skilled creative hands and the sound business mind of the bakeshop. He has been in the food industry for almost half of his life and has experience in the kitchen and in management. “It's good. I’ve learned a lot, witnessed the ins and outs, different aspects in running a business while being true to my skill. I have to admit though, this bakery is the fruit of my passion. I do all the baking, carefully picking the recipes, and choosing the ingredients. And on the more creative side, I form the theme, visualize the design in harmony with the colors, and use specific techniques to achieve these heavenly pastries and desserts,” says Biadora.


Reservations: 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road photo: Kitty Leaken

The Cellar Tapas Beer & Wine

Aspen almond cream kouign-amann from Biadora Bakery.

How long have you been baking? I’ve been exposed to cooking and baking ever since I was a kid— around ten years old or so, if I have to count. Even when I'm busy working in the management department, I will make time to bake something. What do you love about being a baker? I love, mostly, everything about it. I’m thankful that I’m creative as well, which makes the pastry a delight both for the eyes and the taste. I really find it fulfilling, creating something that I could get lost in, but then again my mind is probably already having sparks of a new idea. I see my bakeshop as something magical.

1025 Lomas NW, Albuquerque, 505.242.3117 Open from 4-9:30pm Tuesday - Saturday WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


Do you have formal training?

Do you have specialty items that are hard to find elsewhere?

I went to Le Cordon Bleu and trained under talented pastry chefs in New York.

I think the special thing we provide is a place you can come and get really good bread of almost any style imaginable. We pay the same attention to the quality of flour and form in our artisan rustic loaves as our brioche burger buns. We really love it when our customers come in and say, "This has been our family bread. Grandma always had Fano at family dinner." We want you to think quality, health, and love.

What is your favorite thing to bake? Just one? Haha! That will have to be kouign-amann [flakey layers of viennoiserie dough, butter, and sugar, sort of like a dense croissant]. I just can't get enough of it. Do you have specialty items that are hard to find elsewhere? Yes, we do. Mainly because we have some original recipes, and the people just eat them up. French macaron, Aspen Almond Cream Kouign-Amann, Matilda. What is your most popular item—what are you known for? That will have to be the Aspen Almond Cream Kouign-Amann. It's really something special. Like nothing you've ever tasted. It has that effect even on me. What else do you want our readers to know about your bakery? Well, for the others out there, who haven't been to the bakeshop, I really urge you to drop by, because I know you will find something happy or amazing when you come. Thank you. 1807 Second Street, #9 Santa Fe, 505-467-9305

FANO BREAD COMPANY Fano Bread Company is a family bakery, owned by Ivy and Michael Rizzo, with a quarter-century-long mission of providing New Mexicans with delectable bread from time-tested recipes. The bakery opened twenty-five years ago as a ma-and-pa owned corner bread shop. “My mother sold bread out of a tiny storefront on Fourth Street,” says Michael. “Folks were looking for artisan breads and our little Italian family wanted to provide that. Then people started coming in and asking, ‘Can you make this delicious bread or that delicious bread for our restaurant or grocery store or family?’ and that's how we grew. We grew by local families and business owners telling us their dreams for their tables, and that has equalled a whole lot of yummy, fresh-baked bread over the years.”

Ciabatta bread from Fano Bread Company. 50

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What is your most popular item—what are you known for? I guess we are best known for our rustic loaf as that's the bread that really made us a full-scale bakery. You can use rustic for pretty much any occasion. And our green chile cheese rolls are what we bring whenever we're invited over to dinner. What else do you want our readers to know about your bakery? We want to see every New Mexican family have the opportunities we have had. We believe in workers’ rights and support the Healthy Workforce ABQ Initiative to get paid sick leave for the people of Bernalillo County and beyond. We see a future where all New Mexican children have access to great food as well as a great education. We see bread as a way to community, a community we believe in and are very thankful for. 4605 McLeod NE, Albuquerque, 505-884-5555

NEW MEXICO PIE COMPANY New Mexico Pie Company began selling at local farmers markets and special events in 2012 and has since opened an Albuquerque retail location. Andrea Schulte, owner and pastry chef, has more than sixteen years experience in the foodservice industry, where she has worked in and managed many bakery departments and pastry kitchens. Schulte is also an instructor for baking and pastry arts at CNM. What do you love about being a baker? I decided to go to culinary school and study baking and pastry arts when I was in high school. I loved watching The Great Chefs series, and inspired by the fine pastries and desserts, I worked to recreate

Baguette from Fano Bread Company.

them after watching the shows. I also loved studying baking books and baking at home. I decided that I would make a career out of it. Do you have formal training? I went to school at Johnson and Wales University in Charleston, South Carolina, where I earned an associate degree in baking and pastry arts, and then another associate in culinary arts, followed by a bachelor’s in foodservice management. I graduated in 2000. I loved my training and learned so much!

ALBUQUERQUE 10701 Corrales Rd. NW 899-7500 11225 Montgomery NE 271-0882 3403 Central NE 266-7855

What is your favorite thing to bake? I, of course, love baking and creating delicious pies as owner of New Mexico Pie Company. I strive to create the very best pie crusts, starting with the most pure, simple ingredients, and I love making the most flavorful fillings in the pies on each monthly menu. Also, as a full-time baking and pastry instructor at CNM, I love teaching the techniques of baking breads, making laminated doughs, and preparing many types of pastries and cakes. Do you have specialty items that are hard to find elsewhere? Yes, we make unique pies, which are completely from scratch, and we change our menu monthly. Our unique pies have a New Mexican twist, such as Chocolate Pecan Red Chile Pie, Green Chile Bacon Quiche, and Turkey Green Chile Cheddar Hand Pies. We also make "pop tarts" from scratch that we call Pie Tarts. We make other hard-to-find pies like Lemon Chess Pie, Triple Berry Vanilla Bean Custard Pie, Biscochito Cream Pie, Razzle Dazzle Rhubarb Pie, Pumpkin Pecan Praline Pie, and local peach and apricot pies, just to name a few.

SANTA FE 321 W. San Francisco 986-8700 Edible Mag - 3.625” x 4.75”

What is your most popular item—what are you known for? We are most known for my creation, Caramel Apple Green Chile Pie. What else do you want our readers to know about your bakery? We make amazing custom dessert displays and cakes for weddings, we make custom pies for special orders, and we create custom menus for every holiday. We are also a local supplier of made-by-hand baked items and pastries for many local coffee shops in Albuquerque. 4003 Carlisle NE, Albuquerque, 505-884-3625

Caramel apple green chile pie from New Mexico Pie Company WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


BURQUE BAKEHOUSE The Burque Bakehouse began as a stand at Albuquerque's downtown weekend farmers markets (Downtown Growers’ Market and The Rail Yards Market), where for the last two years they have sold their pastries. The Bakehouse is a from-scratch, small-batch modern bakery featuring modern French-style pastries along with American flavors and local influences. The pastry selection includes tarts, macarons, and a range of viennoiseries. Owner Sarah Ciccotello says, “We focus our energies on sourcing the highest quality ingredients, and then treating those ingredients with the utmost respect, producing each pastry with attention to detail at every single stage in the process.” Do you have any formal training? I came to New Mexico in the late nineties to study at UNM and have made Albuquerque my home since. I began as the pastry chef for the James Beard Award–winning Compound Restaurant in Santa Fe and for Zacatecas in Albuquerque. I then went on to lead the pastry team at Los Poblanos in Los Ranchos de Albuquerque. Do you have formal training? I attended culinary school at both CNM and the San Francisco Baking Institute.

Do you have specialty items that are hard to find elsewhere? We are trying to bring European-inspired patisserie to the Burque. Our Green Chile Croissant is a great example of combining local flavors with traditional methods, and is an item I have not seen elsewhere. What is your most popular item—what are you known for? Our most popular item is the Twice-baked Almond Croissant. It begins as a classic butter croissant, crafted over a three-day period. It is then sliced open, brushed with rum syrup, filled and topped with almond frangipane, covered in almonds, and finally baked again. What else do you want our readers to know about your bakery? In addition to being a part of the vibrant downtown market scene, our pastries can be found daily at Zendo Art and Coffee in Albuquerque. Orders can also be placed in advance for pickup at The Bakehouse on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from 10am to12pm. 505-234-6294,

What is your favorite thing to bake?


I enjoy having my hands in dough. I like taking simple ingredients like flour, water, yeast, salt, and butter and turning them into a delicious, flakey croissant. The challenge of creating many delicate layers is very rewarding.

Rebel Donut, Albuquerque’s premier artisan donut shop, showcases more than thirty donut flavors with new and different surprises daily. Jeffrey and Carrie Mettling are the husband-and-wife team behind Rebel Donut.

Savory Danishes from the Burque Bakehouse.

Red chile bacon chocolate donut from Rebel Donut.


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Carrie has two degrees in architecture from UNM, but she left that field in 2006 to open her first business, Cake Fetish. “After selling it, I explored other careers in design and construction until I realized that I am most at home in a kitchen covered in flour. I opened Rebel Donut with my husband in 2012 and Sugar Crush, a bakery, in 2016. I have six-year-old twins who are my best taste testers and my reason for working as hard as I do,” she says. How long have you been baking? I have been baking since the third or fourth grade when I got my first Easy-Bake oven. I got more serious about it in my late twenties, still just doing it as a hobby and for friends. By the time I made three or four wedding cakes for my co-workers, I realized how much I truly enjoyed it and decided to open my own business. What do you love about being a baker? The thing I love most about baking is the creative freedom and the joy that beautiful food brings to other people. It's an ego driven art in a different way than architecture is. I'm not looking to create something to endure decades. I'm just after the joy and memories I can leave people with. That's what drives me.

Organic, Gluten-free, Plant-Based Cuisine

Do you have formal training?

Thursday, Friday & Saturday 11-9pm · Sunday Buffet 11-3pm $20

I have zero formal training. People thought I was crazy to open a bakery without it, but I'm pretty stubborn. I didn't bother having a plan B.

4500 Silver Ave SE, Albuquerque, In Nob Hill at Jefferson 505.639.3401 • 505.363.4288 •

What is your favorite thing to bake? I still like to bake cakes, but I have a serious love for donuts— which are not exactly baked. I have found that donuts give me far more creative satisfaction. The shape and flavor combinations are limitless. Do you have specialty items that are hard to find elsewhere? We have some great locally inspired donuts like Blue Corn Piñon and the Azteca. Some of our best sellers are the French Toast and the Red Velvet. What is your most popular item—what are you known for? Our most popular item has to be the French Toast. It's a yeastraised square donut that's tossed in cinnamon and sugar with a dollop of sweet butter and a drizzle of maple. What else do you want our readers know about your bakery? Our employees are very creative and they have the freedom to invent product on the fly. Some amazingly delicious things get thought up at 4am. What some people may not know is that we will produce the donut of your dreams for you. Challenge us. I'm sure there are a few things we haven't thought of yet. But just a few. 2435 Wyoming NE, Albuquerque, 505-293-0553 9311 Coors NW, Albuquerque, 505-898-3090 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



Why do you like to bake?

La Quiche has been selling at Albuquerque’s Downtown Growers’ Market for over nine years. Paris natives Bruno Barachin, master baker, and his wife, Sabine Pasco, pastry chef, own La Quiche. They opened their first brick and mortar in 2006, in downtown Albuquerque and relocated to the Heights in 2013.

What is your most popular item—what are you known for?

Barachin says, “At La Quiche we strive to provide the best fresh ingredients and the full authentic quality of French cuisine without going to France. With a wide variety of menu items to choose from, there is sure to be something to make you and your tastebuds come back for more! Come visit us and see our wonderful selection of lunch and breakfast items. We offer a wide variety of pastries and bread, along with specialty items and tasty glasses of wine to pair. We strive to give you the best dining experience in the Albuquerque area.” What do you love about being a baker? First, baking from scratch is not a simple job. You need patience, personality, discipline, observation, knowledge, and courage. Do you have formal training? I learned how to bake through a French organization of craftsmen from 1982 to 1985 in Bordeaux and Paris. After thirty-six years of baking and two diplomas (CAP-Master), I am still learning every day.

Because I eat good bread, good pastry, and good food every day. It's my life!

Quiche. We are known for our almond croissants at the Downtown Growers’ Market. Everything is made from scratch. Our pastry by Sabine is upscale and to die for. What else do you want our readers to know about your bakery? We have a French menu for breakfast and lunch every day, from omelettes to mussels to steak and frites. 5850 Eubank NE, Albuquerque, 505-242-2808

DULCE BAKERY Opened in 2010, Dulce is co-owned by pastry chef Dennis Adkins and Kirk Barnett. Dulce uses local ingredients whenever possible “so that the money you spend at Dulce stays in the local economy. Our flour is locally grown by Sangre de Cristo Agricultural Producers north of Taos. The free-range chickens that lay our eggs live in Estancia on a diet free of antibiotics and steroids. The all-natural milk we use comes from the cows at Rasband Dairy in Albuquerque.”

The best part of my work is croissant dough.

Dulce is Spanish for sweet. “Not only does our name describe what we do, it embodies our overall business philosophy. If we are sweet with what we serve and how we serve it, then we hope to spread a little

Oranais at La Quiche Parisienne Bistro.

Quiche of the day at Dulce.

What is your favorite thing to bake?


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sweetness to our customers. Our goal is for all of our customers to walk away happy because of what and how we serve them.” What do you love about being a baker? My [Adkins'] favorite things about being a baker are the chemistry involved in the baking process, the smell of the baked goods as they bake in the oven, and the creativity involved in creating new menu items. My biggest inspirations are my late mother and the creative possibilities that baking can provide. Do you have formal training? I trained at Los Angeles Trade Technical College and graduated in 2002, then attended Bellouet Conseil in Paris. What is your favorite thing to bake? My favorite things to bake are yeasted products such as croissants, breads, and puff pastry. Do you have specialty items that are hard to find elsewhere? Dulce’s products are differentiated more by our made-from-scratch quality rather than our variety. But we do offer a large assortment of baked items that are less common at other bakeries, including individually-sized tarts, cheesecakes, creme brûlée, and bread pudding. What is your most popular item—what are you known for? Our most popular baked item is quiche. Usually we offer about six different varieties.

Crazy Good Food in a Casual Environment … Voted Taos’ “Best New Restaurant” 2016! … World Class Wine Selection …

Open Daily for Happy Hour + Dinner Mile Marker 1 on Ski Valley Road El Prado, NM Restaurant 575.776.8787 Wine Shop 575.776.5656

What else do you want our readers know about your bakery? All of our items are made by hand, fresh from scratch, including our croissants and danishes, tart shells, pie crusts, pastry creams, fillings, glazes and frostings, biscotti, and even the caramel and chocolate sauce that go into our espresso beverages.

slow down

1100 Don Diego, Santa Fe, 505-989-9966

FARMHOUSE CAFÉ AND BAKERY Micah Roseberry, owner of Farmhouse Café and Bakery in Taos, sources the majority of Farmhouse’s one-hundred-percent organic and non-GMO ingredients within miles of the café. This includes everything from the fall harvest calabasas grown by the Parr Field/Enos Garcia Elementary School Garden Project to the Painter Ranch bison burgers. Thus, some menu items, which often come with gluten-free and vegan options, can vary somewhat from season to season. The local lamb; Sangre de Cristo wild mushroom shepherd’s pie with gluten-free gravy; and the garden-fresh kale salad with feta, walnuts, and cranberries are local favorites. And let’s not forget dessert. The three-layer carrot cake with organic cream cheese frosting is on the top of the list. Since starting the Farmhouse Bakery, Micah’s son, Isaac Carmona, has taken on the role of head baker and co-founded the Farmhouse school lunch program.

~Unplug: Wood-Burning Kiva Fireplaces ~Simplify: Fresh Eggs Daily from “The Girls” ~Relax: With a great novel ••• 575-758-2306 Taos, New Mexico



Top left, clockwise: Muffins from Dulce; caramel apple green chile pie from New Mexico Pie Company; Biadora Bakery baked goods; Farmhouse CafĂŠ and Bakery carrot cake; pastries from La Quiche Parisienne Bistro. 56

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How long have you been baking? My [Isaac's] first experience was baking in kindergarten at the Country Day School in Taos. What inspired you to start baking? Silke, my Waldorf teacher, was from Germany, and we made bread and rolls each week, grinding the wheat by hand. Growing up on my family's farm, Cerro Vista Farm, a one-hundred-seventy-five member CSA north of Taos, I learned at an early age how to grow vegetables and grains and appreciate our own northern New Mexico varieties.

Producing New Mexico's Premium Hard Cider Visit Our Taproom, Which Features 27 Taps Serving Cider, Beer, Wine and Bites

Do you have formal training? My professional training is in mechanical drafting, but after graduating from the Community College of Denver, I returned to Taos and co-founded the Farmhouse organic local school lunch program. What is your favorite thing to bake? I presently bake bread, rolls, buns, pizza crust, scones, and cookies for four hundred fifty school meals every day. I apprenticed with Jo Sandoval, who has baked for more than twenty years (three years for Farmhouse Café) and learned how to bake an amazing assortment of pastries, pies, bread, and cakes for the restaurant. Jo is an amazing baker and I am continually inspired by her. Do you have specialty items that are hard to find elsewhere? Farmhouse Café and Bakery uses only organic and local ingredients and specializes in gluten-free cakes and pastry items with the carrot cake being the most popular. It's made with locally grown carrots, and topped with an icing made from Organic Valley cream cheese. It's hard to keep the bakery case full!


What is your most popular item—what are you known for? Besides the carrot cake, I bake fresh scones and cinnamon rolls every day, but the croissant is really the house specialty. Our croissants are made with Sangre de Cristo wheat flour grown thirty miles north of Taos and rolled out with Organic Valley butter. It's really time consuming, but a labor of love. Each day I make a variety of plain; Beeler's ham and smoked gouda; turkey, green chile, and cheddar; raspberry and cream cheese; and chocolate croissants. What else do you want our readers know about your bakery? Come visit me at the Farmhouse. You'll find me baking every morning, delivering school lunches, and I even drive the tractor for the annual Harvest Festival. 1405 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-5683

EXPLORE OUR GUIDES: Our picks for where to eat, drink, and shop around New Mexico. Check out our expanded online Bakery Guide for more suggestions and enticing photos at


Comforting Food Great Wine

Lunch Monday–Saturday Dinner Every Eve 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166



Bringing Home the Bacon KYZER FARM HAS THE CURE FOR THE COMMON PIG By Mark DeRespinis · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Brine-cured, air-dried, house-smoked bacon at the Betterday Coffee Shop.

“We are willing to pay a little extra for the quality and care that goes into local meat production. I guarantee if you taste pork from the grocery store and Kyzer pork, it’s like night and day,” says Renée Fox of Loyal Hound. 58

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o find the story behind the meat portion of your breakfast plate, I visited Kyzer Farm, a short drive south of downtown Albuquerque, to meet with farmer Robert Kyzer and his delightful passel of pigs. I had never been to a pig farm before. What instantly struck me was how clean, bright, and happy the pigs looked in their ample outdoor yard, playfully cavorting out in the open or gathering gregariously around a water trough. I had to blink a few times; I thought for a second that the pigs were actually glowing. Kyzer, warm and welcoming, showed me around and discussed the ways he produces a superior pork product for the local market. “We mainly do a lot of natural farming. That's pretty much the name of our game.” He declared right from the outset, “Anybody can raise an animal; what we have is flavor.” I can definitely attest to that, having braised Kyzer pork belly at home, having eaten mouth-watering breakfast burritos with bacon and sausage made from Kyzer pork at Santa Fe’s Betterday Coffee more times than I can count, and having returned time and again for the tender barbeque Kyzer ribs at Fire and Hops. As we toured around the farm, Kyzer elaborated on the natural farming process that leads to this delicious result.


It begins with the mother. Farmers following standard industrial practices take the piglet off its mother at fifteen to twentyfive pounds. The weakened weaner then requires antibiotics to prevent disease and growth hormones to accelerate weight gain. Kyzer takes a different approach. He supports his sows throughout their natural lactation period by feeding them goat whey, which is rich in protein, amino acids, and probiotics that are passed on to the piglets through their milk. The piglets continue to feed on their mother until they are fifty to sixty pounds, and are only then weaned and brought out into the larger community. Kyzer socializes pigs from several different mothers in communal yards, which makes for more mild-mannered animals. He also interacts with the pigs frequently, scratching behind their ears while talking and moving among them as he visits them on his thrice-daily rounds. On my visit, I had the pleasure of hanging out with the pigs while I spoke with Kyzer. The congenial critters nudged and nosed my ankles and sidled up against my legs. The playful interaction has a purpose beyond the feel-good; the communalism reduces stress and makes the meat taste better. The maxim might go: happy pigs make happy eaters. Kyzer pointed to the giant feeder in the deeply bedded open air enclosure. “If you want to know the secret of what we do, I'll tell you. It's the feed. There’s nothing magical about it.” Kyzer Farm’s custom blend of feed includes assorted grains, a mineral supplement, and seed oils rich in amino acids and chlorophyll. Regional porcine delicacies such as sunflower seeds and peanuts complete the ration. These fatty, nutrient-dense treats add a rich nutty flavor to the meat. On this feed, Kyzer pigs gorge themselves voraciously and gain weight without any of the growth hormones or weight gain drugs common in commercial swineries. Kyzer Farm raises pigs from Hampshire, Duroc, Yorkshire, and Berkshire breeding lines, and they are developing their own crosses

for voting

Carrie Eagle: Best Chef & Cherie Montoya: Olla Award

Upcoming Special Dinners & Events Oysters & Chocolate: A Prelude to Valentine’s Day February 13 | by reservation | $75

Birthday Dinner: Five Courses to Celebrate Five Years March 27 | 6:00pm | $75

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edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

to exhibit the strengths and qualities of each of these traditional breeds, some of which are known for the quality of their lard, and others for the quality of their bacon. Kyzer told me that there are three hundred sows in the region that they partner with, each being kept on their premium blend of feed and care. Through this cooperative arrangement, they are able to mentor and support the next generation of farmers by setting them up with a sow and then buying the feeder pigs to take back to the home farm and grow to full size. Since they started raising pigs twenty years ago, Kyzer Farm has sold whole hogs to individuals holding their own private matanza or traditional pig roast. In addition, La Montañita’s Cooperative Distribution Center (CDC) has been a consistent customer for the farm, both in its retail stores and through wholesale sales to restaurant customers. In recent years, as the farm-to-table movement in the area has continued to grow, Kyzer Farm has garnered a devoted cadre of chefs who feature Kyzer pork products on their menus, taking full advantage of the selection and availability of meat that the CDC reliably brokers to them. I spoke with several local chefs who are proud proponents of Kyzer pork. Dru Ruebush of Radish and Rye observes, “One of the more noticeable differences between Kyzer pork and other products is the quality of the fat. With commercial pork, the fat tends to turn an off color when cooked, where Kyzer is extremely white. The color is not the only difference. The texture and flavor of the Kyzer fat is outstanding. We don’t cut the fat off our pork chops, and eating a bite of pure fat is difficult to distinguish from the meat, texture wise.” (Most commercial pork fat remains flaccid after cooking and has a terrible mouthfeel.) In addition to the bone-in pork chop, Radish and Rye uses pork belly, Kyzer green chile bratwurst, and pork bones.

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Renée Fox from the Loyal Hound says, “We are willing to pay a little extra for the quality and care that goes into local meat production. I guarantee if you taste pork from the grocery store and Kyzer pork, it’s like night and day.” Loyal Hound uses Kyzer pork butt and ham, loin for schnitzel and chops, belly for braising and smoking, and ground pork. Back at the breakfast table, I found Kyzer pork right beneath my own nose. It was, in fact, as I was sketching out my notes for this article, having a cup of coffee and eating a breakfast burrito, that I remembered that Betterday’s chef, Paul Novak, had said they use Kyzer pork for their bacon and sausage. I poked my head into the kitchen and asked for a tour. What I found was a direct expression of the local food process, where the best of the farm comes directly into the kitchen, and old-style culinary alchemy creates the familiar delicacies—in this case, bacon and sausage— that delight our palates anew.

Opposite page, top: Glowing pink pig. Bottom left: Proud pig farmer, Robert Kyzer. Bottom right: Kyzer puts down fresh bedding for the pigs on a daily basis. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


Kyzer socializes pigs from several different mothers in communal yards, which makes for more mild-mannered animals.

The owner of the Betterday, Tom Frost, passionately voiced his commitment to homemade food, locally sourced ingredients of the highest quality, and the foodways of the scratch kitchen. “The Betterday is a place where you can trust the food.” He expressed his appreciation for Kyzer, who had personally visited the coffee shop, and for the ways in which Kyzer has worked with the seasonal fluctuations of demand in the restaurant and provided a consistent and quality product year-round. Chef Novak took me into the walk-in cooler where whole slabs of pork belly are brine-cured, before being air-dried and taken to the outdoor smoker where various fruit woods are used to smoke the meat. The bacon then rests before it is diced and cooked. Novak showed me a pile of bone-in pork shoulder, from which they carve the meat that is passed through a grinder, mixed with spices, and reground before being made into a delicious breakfast sausage. These breakfast meats, rolled into a fresh tortilla with organic eggs, potatoes, and house-made red and green chile, make for a breakfast burrito that 62

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had me addicted from the first bite. “The breakfast burrito is the place where we all, in Santa Fe, start our day,” says Frost. “We wanted to make a homemade one and make it accessible to all.” The democratization of the farm-to-table movement is good for the farmer and good for the eaters. More and more, I have the feeling that certain things, at least, are right with the world when you can walk into your local coffee shop and know the provenance of the meat you are eating in your breakfast burrito. Look for Kyzer Farm pork in La Montañita’s Co-op locations throughout the region and on the menus of fine restaurants from Albuquerque to Taos and beyond. Look for the Betterday Kitchen, opening next to Betterday Coffee, in the Solana Center this month. Kyzer Farms: 505-877-7742, Betterday Coffee: 905 W Alameda, Santa Fe 505-780-8059,

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By Michael J. Dax · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Mike and Erica De Smet encourage customers to visit the farm and see the cows that produce their milk. They’re not only proud that their milk is healthy, but that their cows and grass are, too. 64

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y mid-December, the mix of fescues, orchard grasses, and brome grasses that cover De Smet Dairy’s one hundred fifty acres have turned from green to brown. The forty cows that the dairy milks at any one time munch a mixture of dry hay along with whatever stubble remains in one of Bosque Farms’ last open spaces while the sun lowers behind the cottonwoods that line the Rio Grande.

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From their ranch-style home opposite the pasture, Mike and Erica De Smet, the husband and wife team who own and operate the dairy, relish the bucolic scene. “It’s a great lifestyle to be able to look out and have cows grazing out your front window,” says Mike, whose grandfather purchased the land in 1949. “I’m third generation here, so it would be great if my kids could figure out a way to keep moving it forward.” His father and grandfather ran a traditional dairy, but when Mike and Erica returned to the area and resumed dairying in 2013, the business landscape had changed dramatically. As De Smet describes it, a small dairy typically milks at least two thousand cows, and there was no way his family’s land could support such an operation. They knew they would not be able to sell their milk to a creamery and would have to sell it themselves. Upon realizing that New Mexico is a raw milk state—one of twenty-nine that allows some form of raw milk sales and one of thirteen that allows offfarm sales—they decided to take a chance. A few years before Mike returned to the farm, his father had sold the cows and reverted to growing corn and alfalfa. Soon after taking over day-to-day operations, he was presented with the unique opportunity to rent his land for the filming of Arnold Schwarzenegger’s movie, The Last Stand. With that seed money in tow, he purchased the cows and equipment—including a pasteurizer— needed to resume the dairy. Growing up, Mike drank raw milk (milk that has not been pasteurized) on a regular basis. “Every kid who grows up on a dairy drinks raw milk,” says Mike, who is well built, with a short beard and long hair tied into a loose bun. “We’d run across the street and open up the bulk tank.” Even though raw milk wasn’t new to him, he was still nervous about there being enough of a market to sell exclusively unpasteurized milk. “I thought we were going to have to be traditional and ease people into raw milk,” admits Mike. But that has not been the case. “Three years later, I haven’t pasteurized one drop,” he says proudly. Pasteurization, the process developed by Louis Pasteur in 1864, kills bacteria by slowly heating it. By killing enough pathogenic microbes, pasteurization limits the growth of harmful bacteria like salmonella, E. coli, and listeria, and prolongs the shelf-life of dairy products as well as wine, beer, cider, and certain varieties of nuts. The US began to adopt pasteurization techniques by the 1890s, and starting in 1971, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) required the pasteurization of all milk bought and sold across state lines. In recent years, the local food movement, along with Americans’ increasing desire to avoid processed foods and “the Know your

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Top: Mike De Smet proudly shows off his cows for vistors. Bottom left: The dairy goes through a nine-step process of cleaning the udders and equipment every time the cows are milked. Bottom right: A cow paitently waits for her milking to be done. 66

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Farmer campaign,” have expanded interest in raw milk. Raw milk has engendered significant controversy, with both sides debating its health benefits and safety. Proponents, the De Smets included, not only insist that the product is safe, but that it is healthier as well. Among many claims, these advocates assert that raw milk contains many more probiotics that aid the digestive system, has higher levels of fat-soluble vitamins, and decreases allergies and childhood asthma. Additionally, from his experience, Mike says that many people who claim to be lactose intolerant have been able to drink his milk without getting sick. Supporters of raw milk are also quick to emphasize how much better the taste is. “It gives the milk a fuller, creamier flavor,” says Mike. “The taste is so much better than anything you’re going to process.” Few debate the flavor comparison, but many scientists, including those at the FDA, vociferously discourage the consumption of any raw dairy products. The FDA points to studies that refute the health benefits and rebut claims that pasteurization has any ties to lactose intolerance, allergies, or asthma. The FDA also insists that raw milk is unsafe. According to the FDA, pasteurization is “the only way to be sure” milk is safe. According to the Center for Disease Control, since 1998, there have been 136 outbreaks tied to raw milk, with 2,468 documented illnesses and two deaths. This is in comparison to thirty-one outbreaks, with 2,840 documented illnesses and ten deaths, that have been tied to pasteurized dairy products. Statistics aside, Mike takes these health concerns seriously and proudly touts the many proactive steps their dairy takes to ensure its products are safe. Before milking the cows, he goes through a nine-step process of cleaning the udders and equipment. Step one, according to Mike: “If you’re not willing to put your mouth on that teat and suck milk out of it, you should clean it again.” Additionally, Mike is diligent about rotating the cows and water tanks around the pasture so they are less likely to lie in their waste, which increases the chance of unwanted bacteria getting into the milk. He conducts independent health checks on a weekly basis in addition to the monthly inspections mandated by state law. State law also requires that raw milk carry a sell-by date marked four days after it is produced—even though it can be consumed for at least seven days beyond that. This makes for a tight timeline. The milk is shipped to retail stores from Las Cruces to Taos as soon as possible, often the same day it is bottled. This quick turnaround allows it to be on shelves as long as possible. For Mike, this narrow window certainly makes the business aspect more difficult because many stores do not want to be stuck with excess milk on their shelves, but over the past three years, the dairy has built a solid customer base that knows what day milk is delivered to their local store. The De Smets say this is integral to how they view their business. “People want to put a face to their food,” says Erica, who regularly posts pictures and videos of their cows on the farm’s Facebook page. This enables them to speak directly to and educate the people who buy their products, and is what attracts many to the local food movement.

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Naturally grazing cows on nutrient dense grass makes for happy cows that provide nutrient-dense milk. 68

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In November, when their cows got into a patch of milkweed, which produces an intensely bitter flavor in their milk, Erica was able to alert their customers via Facebook and offer to exchange any bitter milk the following week, after the cows had been moved to a new pasture. Similarly, when the dairy expanded beyond its initial sixteen cows, Mike faced a choice. He could not find any certified organic cows for purchase, and any non-organic cows would need to be on the farm for a full year to be considered eligible for organic certification. Forced to choose between expanding and retaining their certified organic status, Mike and Erica turned to Facebook to poll their customers. By informing them that the dairy’s practices would not change, they felt comfortable letting go of their organic status, and as a result, their business has not suffered. “Our customers understand what we’re doing,” says Mike confidently. For this reason, Mike and Erica encourage customers to visit the farm and see the cows that produce their milk. They’re not only proud that their milk is healthy, but that their cows and grass are, too. When Mike took over the farm, it could not support the same grass or crop production that he remembered as a child, but since then, he has worked to restore the land, rotating different grasses and alfalfa, so that the soil gives and receives a balanced source of nutrients. Mike also consults with a nutritionist to ensure the cows are receiving the appropriate mixture of grasses and dried hays that allow their stomachs to ruminate. “Our cows eat better than we do,” jokes Erica.

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Customers visiting the dairy can buy direct from the farm’s creamery, which operates on the honor system, selling milk, yogurt, and free-range eggs that are produced in coordination with a Mennonite farmer thirty miles south. “That’s what is great about what we do,” says Mike. “We’re linked directly to our customers, whether it’s on Facebook or they come directly to the farm.” With limited space to expand, De Smet Dairy is unlikely to grow significantly in the near future, but for Mike and Erica, their focus is more on consistently producing a quality product in a sustainable and transparent way that allows customers to have confidence in what they are consuming. Says Mike, “It’s a great, amazing thing to look out and say ‘That’s our family’s.’” 505-916-0475,




By Ric Murphy · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

“Labels like ‘omega 3’ sound good to consumers, but they don’t always understand that this is related to what the chickens eat," says Thomas Swendson of Mesa Top Farms. He emphasizes that the quality of the egg produced is directly linked to the diet of the chickens. The healthier the diet, the more delicious the eggs are. 70

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David Johnson standing in sesbania cover crop.


ou might say compassion, dedication, and hard work have put Mesa Top Farm over the top. For co-owners Steve and Colleen Warshawer, it’s so much more than that. Originally formed in 1994 as Beneficial Farms, Mesa Top has grown into an environmentally sound and diverse farming operation, all while achieving financial stability. “The farm and our CSA [community supported agriculture] started in response to community members who wanted fresh, delicious produce, and, hopefully, some eggs, too. My husband founded this farm more than twenty years ago, with the mission of growing pesticide-free produce, raising free-range cattle, and [producing] eggs from cage-free chickens,” said Colleen. Mesa Top, located twenty-five miles southeast of Santa Fe on several hundred acres of juniper and pine forest, is now a dynamic operation, ranging from produce and eggs to cheese making and dog breeding. The remote farm, which offers sweeping views in a quiet and peaceful setting, appeals to almost anyone who steps foot on the land. That is why the Warshawers recently created a master plan that maximizes open space and offers some carefully situated home sites, even horse stalls and riding trails. With help for maintenance costs such as roads and water systems, Steve and Colleen hope to share this special place with a few willing neighbors.

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“When it comes to agricultural products, the farm is a diverse operation and we focus on a number of aspects of farming,” says Steve. At the core of Mesa Top’s success is egg production, which can only come through carefully handling the challenges of reliable distribution, consumer education, keeping healthy chickens, and more. Mesa Top is one of the main farms in the very popular Beneficial Farms CSA, which is a collection of various farmers, ranchers, and food producers. All the eggs that Beneficial Farms CSA members receive come from Mesa Top. And because of that success, Steve and Colleen’s son, Thomas Swendson, has recently taken ownership of this part of the family business. “The CSA supplies our eggs directly to members in Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Cedar Crest, and Madrid,” Swendson noted. “The membership also allows us to sell pullet eggs, which are smaller eggs laid by young chickens, ensuring we have a market for them, too.” And a relationship with the Co-op Distribution Center allows Beneficial Farms eggs to be sold at various restaurants and cafés around New Mexico, including Fire and Hops, Hotel Santa Fe, Sage Bakehouse, and Taos Market. When Mesa Top started raising chickens for egg production, selling the eggs wasn’t always easy. They had very few avenues to move their product. Distribution of goods is key for any successful farmer, as Steve and Colleen learned the hard way. By the time their initial flock of chickens finally started laying eggs, the CSA and growing season were just about finished. Fortunately, they had a relationship with The Marketplace Natural Food Market, which preceded the La Montañita Co-op in Santa Fe. They were able to start selling eggs and produce, such as cucumbers and squash, through The Marketplace. The present La Montañita grew from The Marketplace, and Mesa Top has been active with WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


Top left, clockwise: Happy chickens strut their stuff; Blanca, the Ayrshire cow, rests in the cow hospital; hens are fed locally-grown organic grain; baby chicks cuddle together.

them ever since. That connection to the Co-op is now stronger than ever, with Steve being the Enterprise Development Manager for the last ten years, working with farmers and ranchers to increase production and improve market opportunities for foods produced in the Southwest. “Steven has helped La Montañita develop a co-op agreement with USDA Rural Development, which has funded additional staff for his department, including grant writing and administration,” Colleen noted. “Because of this strong partnership, we recently applied for and received a USDA grant for value-added products.” While Mesa Top has secured several channels of distribution over the years, one constant hurdle they and many farmers face when producing a superior quality food is customer education. From the foundation of the farm, the Warshawers wanted to make ecologically and ethically sound decisions regarding day-to-day management of their 72

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business, such as choosing what to feed daily to hundreds of chickens. The choice of feed matters to the health of the chickens, and their eggs. CSA Manager Thomas Swendson explained that while the average customer understands and appreciates the humane practices of cage-free chickens, not everyone understands the significance of highquality feed, which may be reflected in a higher cost to the consumer. “Labels like ‘omega 3’ sound good to consumers,” Swendson said, but they don’t always understand that this is related to what the chickens eat. He emphasized that “the quality of the egg produced is directly linked to the diet of the chickens. The healthier the diet, the more delicious the eggs are.” Mesa Top feeds more than one thousand chickens during the course of a year and has worked to rely on locally produced grains and locally milled supplemental feed for much of the birds’ meals. Almost three quarters of their diet is comprised of a whole red

winter wheat, and the Warshawers also hope to provide their own grain some time down the road. “The whole wheat suits them well, and allows us to be assured that we do not have to rely on GMO feed. The rest of their diet is a custom blend of high-energy and high-protein feed, ground fresh for us every few weeks by Embudo Valley Organics,” Swendson explained. Under a grant from the USDA, Mesa Top will be reinvigorating marketing and packaging of their egg cartons to help with better brand recognition. Some of the goals of this re-branding effort will be to explain the correlation between high-quality feed and the cost of a dozen eggs, while also expanding their retail presence to additional locations. And while transitioning from conventional eggs to eggs that come from chickens raised outdoors, on high quality feed may be challenging for some families, the Warshawers are confident customers will understand and appreciate the price they are being asked to pay. “We have been slow to advertise the benefits of our eggs, but with our new cartons and marketing materials, we feel customers will really appreciate them. Honestly, it is amazing to check the egg displays and see what people are willing to pay for them once they fully understand the value. We spend what it takes to keep our chickens healthy and happy, which produces eggs that are fully flavored and how eggs should truly taste,” said Colleen. As systems put in place lead to on-site successes, their achievements go beyond the farm and into the community. Working with their son’s high school, Early College Opportunities, they helped build a chicken coop using spare parts from Mesa Top. One dozen baby

chicks were donated to the class, along with a bag of high-quality feed. Steve and Colleen instructed the class on safe handling of the chickens and appropriate washing and packing of their eggs. When the flock and production increase, the eggs will be sold through the Beneficial Farms CSA. “This small on-campus agricultural microenterprise is a great way to introduce young people to farming. We hope that some future entrepreneurs are sparked by this experience,” Steve explained. Steve and Colleen share what is most satisfying at the end of the day, given the ups and downs of running such a diverse business over the past two decades: “Having produced foods that sustain life for families across the state, our animals being very happy and well cared for, and the knowledge that all our efforts are supported by others that like what we do.” It’s easy to understand why Mesa Top Farm is successful. Beyond the hard work and determination, there’s a dynamic family effort to raise delicious, high-quality, real food. That passion translates to other parts of the farm. While touring the beautiful countryside, we were immediately greeted by Blanca, their Ayrshire cow. Thomas pointed out she had been in the “cow hospital” with a broken leg (and was healing quite well so far). Sweet and unassuming, she was the perfect introduction to Mesa Top. We knew we were someplace special, a place where the livestock are treated more like a part of the family, vegetables are grown with love, and careful consideration is given to the delicate ecosystem of a well-rounded farm and business. That spirit can only shine through when the intentions are truly genuine.



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Saturday, April 1 Successful Water Practices & Role of Plants Saturday, April 22 Successful Plant Practices & Selecting Materials MORE DATES ONLINE

For more information and to register: | 505-314-0398 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



ediblesantafe TAG us or use #edibleNM and your Instagram pics could be featured here. For this issue we had a photo contest and picked our favorite brunch shots. See the winner and honorable mentions below.


BRUNCH ROU corfay Best brunch in abq? Blue corn enchiladas & the green chile at Duran Central Pharmacy. #ediblebrunch #ediblenm

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BRUNCH ROU immalittlebunny Bodega Prime today for the buttermilk brined fried chicken, sweet pickles, bok choy slaw, fresh jalapeĂąos, and honey drizzle on brioche bun. Needed a dab of salt but pretty great overall. #bodegaprime #friedchicken #slaw #simplysantafe #eeeeeats #tastingtable #eater #lefooding #ediblebrunch #ediblenm 74

edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

madalynarmijo Fancy frito pie because: #santafe #ediblebrunch #ediblenm at ELOISA

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edible Marketplace



Now accepting CSA memberships for the 2017 season. Contact us at

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

4003 Carlisle NE, Albuquerque 505-884-3625, Handmade sweet and savory pies with pure flavors and premium ingredients, locally roasted coffee and espresso drinks. Mention this ad to get 15% off your order!

Source Guide WHERE TO FIND

Your support for the advertisers listed here allows us to offer this magazine free of charge to readers. Thank you!

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Ohori's Coffee Roasters

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edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

Trifecta Coffee Company

We roast coffee and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house. 413 Montano NE, 505-803-7579,

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FOOD ARTISANS / RETAILERS Heidi's Raspberry Farm

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New Mexico’s first and only certified Neapolitan pizzeria, creating Neapolitan recipes with house-made fresh ingredients and local flavor. Country Club Plaza, 1710 Central SW; Albuquerque Green Jeans Farmery, 3600 Cutler NE, 505-554-1967,

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Artichoke Cafe

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Thank you for supporting restaurants that put an emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients, and their commitment to real food.

Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by the diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients. 3216 Silver SE, 505-266-2305,

100 NM-150, El Prado, 575-776-8787,

Center for Ageless Living


Ajiaco Colombian Bistro

Arroyo Vino



1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque,






artisan cured meats and the best organic green chile in the state. 510 Central SE, 505-243-0130,

Farina Alto

Farina Alto offers fresh, creative fare. Gather over a glass of wine, a good story, and a phenomenal plate of food. 10721 Montgomery NE, 505-298-0035,

Farm & Table

A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795

228 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-989-1904,

Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.

Enjoy fresh, authentic, Italian street food; house-made gelato; Lavazza espresso; and wine and beer all day long on our beautiful sidewalk patio.

Five Star Burgers

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, entrées, salads, a kids menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4–6pm every day. 1710 Central SW; 5901 Wyoming NE, 505-821-1909,

Il Vicino Brewery

A contemporary Italian trattoria offering authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer. 11225 Montgomery NE, 505-271-0882; 3403 Central NE, 505-266-7855; 10701 Corrales NW, 505-899-7500,


Breakfast and lunch all day! Sweet and savory regular and gluten-free crepes, tortas, burritos, empanadas, and handmade pies. Delicious coffee and a wonderful large outdoor patio. 3222 Silver SE, 505-266-0607,

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley. Join us at our restaurant, Wed–Sun 5–9pm, by reservation only. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297,


Our fabulous small-plate Italian creations are crafted from the finest, freshest ingredients; organic, farm-raised, and locally sourced. Featuring a beer and wine bar. 1403 Girard NE, 505-792-1700,

Savoy Bar & Grill

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms. Wine tastings and happy hour. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463,

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Oak-fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town! 2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100,


edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017

The Cellar

An oasis of casual elegance where delicious wines, local microbrews on tap, and sophisticated tapas cuisine will transport you to Old Spain. 1025 Lomas NW, 505-242-3117,

The Grove Cafe & Market

The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia coffee and tea, beer, wine, and signature sweets. 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800,

908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.

Bang Bite

Fresh. Local. Tasty. A bunch of food enthusiasts obsessed with serving the very best crafted food we can get and delivering it the way it was meant to be enjoyed. 505 Cerrillos, 505-469-2345,

Five Star Burgers

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrées, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4–6 every day. 604 N Guadalupe, 505-983-8977,

The Shop Breakfast & Lunch

Il Piatto


Il Vicino Brewery

Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795, Art gallery, vegetarian cuisine, and live music. Open Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays 11am–7pm and Sunday Buffet 11am– 3pm, $20. 4500 Silver SE, 505-639-3401,


Zacatecas, a real taqueria, features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. 3423 Central NE, 505-255-8226,

Zinc Restaurant & Wine Bar

A three-level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites! 3009 Central NE, 505-254-9462,

SANTA FE Arroyo Vino

Arroyo Vino, voted a top 100 restaurant in America by OpenTable reviewers, serves progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100,

A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list. 95 W Marcy, 505-984-1091, A contemporary Italian trattoria, offers authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer. 321 W San Francisco, 505-986-8700,

La Boca & Taberna

With the feel of a lively European wine bar, La Boca offers modern Spanish tapas, unique international wine selections, and an extensive list of Spanish sherries. 72 W Marcy, 505-982-3433,

La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza Authentic New Mexican cuisine, awardwinning wine list, and impeccable service. 100 E San Francisco, 505-995-2334,

Loyal Hound

Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St. Michaels, 505-471-0440,

Mangiamo Pronto

Enjoy fresh, authentic, Italian street food; house-made gelato; Lavazza espresso; and wine and beer all day long on our beautiful sidewalk patio. 228 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-989-1904,

• STORIES colombian bistro

now open

Creative Casual Cuisine

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695,

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305,

Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.

Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients.

Radish & Rye

Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. We work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu. 548 Agua Fria, 505-930-5325,

Rasa Juice + Kitchen

An organic juice bar and café committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, coldpressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs. 815 Early, 505-989-1288,

Red Sage

Five Star Burgers

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrées, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4–6 every day. 1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, 575-758-8484,


A casual yet refined dining experience featuring world class wines and culinary delights inspired by regional American cuisines with a touch of international flair. 100 State Highway 150, El Prado, 575-776-8787,

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list. 20 Buffalo Thunder, 505-819-2056,



Taos Diner I & II

A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list. 304 Johnson, 505-989-1166,

The Compound Restaurant

The Compound Restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon, 505-982-4353,

The Palace Restaurant

Santa Fe's premier dining club. 142 W Palace, 505-428-0690,

/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-1994, Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374; 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989,

The Gorge: Bar and Grill

Our menu is straightforward yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-8866,



Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an awardwinning wine list. 221 Highway 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695,

Doc Martin’s

Greenhouse Bistro

Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Patio dining, fresh local foods, award-winning wines, and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos. 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-1977,

Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living. 5 Thomas, Los Lunas, 505-866-1936,








By Enrique Guerrero, Bang Bite and El Nido Serves 1 Cocktail 1 ounce Cynar 1/2 ounce Campari 1/2 ounce fresh blood-orange juice 3 ounces chilled sparkling white wine (preferably Gruet) Blood-orange sorbet (recipe to follow) 1 blood-orange twist Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add the Cynar, Campari, and juice; shake well. Strain into a chilled flute, top with the champagne, and garnish with the twist and a small scoop of blood-orange sorbet. Sorbet 1 1/4 cups water 3/4 cup sugar 1 1/2 tablespoons zest from blood orange 4 pounds blood orange Combine water, sugar, and orange zest in heavy medium-sized saucepan. Stir over high heat until sugar dissolves and syrup boils; remove syrup from heat. Cut all peel and pith from oranges. Working over a bowl to catch juices, cut between membranes to release orange segments. Discard any seeds. Transfer orange mixture to processor; purée until smooth, about 30 seconds. Measure 2 1/3 cups orange purée and mix into orange syrup (reserve any remaining purée for another use). Cover orange mixture; refrigerate at least 6 hours and up to 1 day to blend flavors. Process orange mixture in ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to container; cover and freeze. Makes about 3 cups. (Can be made 2 days ahead.)


edible Santa Fe | LATE WINTER 2017


who doesn’t think that the best hamburger place in the world is in their hometown is a: a) nincompoop

d) dunderhead

b) numskull

e) fool...

c) schnook








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