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Food & Music ISSUE 51 · LATE SUMMER



GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook








36 COOKING FRESH Farm to Tailgate by Sara Keyser







80 LAST BITE Corpse Reviver 2.1 by Julian Martinez

THE PLATE Dinner and an Opera by Ashlie Hughes


Instagram Round Up

Farm to Table and Santa Fe School of Cooking Another Day in Polvaderadise by Candolin Cook





Bean-to-Bar Chocolatiers in New Mexico by Robin Babb




Still Spirits Adds Nuance to Albuquerque’s Brewery Matrix by Michael J. Dax

LIQUID TOURISM Choose Your Own Wine Adventure by Sam L. Melada

The Santa Fe Opera Tailgate by Willy Carleton A Beloved Spanish Art Thrives in New Mexico’s Culinary Scene by Nora Hickey

Food & Music ISSUE 51 · LATE SUMMER


Bourbon & Peach Sweet Tea Popsicles. Photo by Stephanie Cameron. Get the recipe at ediblenm.com.

56 THE SONGWRITERS’ KITCHEN Interviews with Lone Piñon, CW Ayon, Eileen and the In-Betweens, and Boris McCutcheon





During a recent Supper Club event at the picturesque Casa Rondeña Winery, dinner table conversation turned—as it often does for us at edible—to food production. Familiar discussions on soil fertility and recent weather activity came to a halt, however, when an otherwise quiet gentleman named Boone offered the secret to success for his family’s cattle farm: “We played Mozart to the cows all day.” As it turns out, playing music for livestock is a fairly common practice. Studies have shown that certain genres, especially classical, when played at a consistent volume, can calm herds, encourage preferable behavioral changes, such as selfherding, and increase milk production in dairy cows. Similarly, a few researchers have claimed (albeit, controversially) a correlation between the vibrations in sound waves and plant growth, prompting some vegetable farmers to serenade their fields with Chopin. Perhaps it is not so outlandish that music, the “universal language of mankind,” according to Longfellow, may, in fact, be the universal language of all living things.

Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook

COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Briana Olson

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron

EVENT COORDINATORS Natalie Donnelly and Gina Riccobono


In this issue of edible, we explore relationships between food and music. From the tapas at local flamenco shows to the dramatic cuisine of Santa Fe Opera tailgates to the food that fuels local songwriters, we delve into the auditory ingredients of gustatory delight.


Like music, food provides a powerful form of visceral communication. Both have the ability to tell a story, bridge cultural divides, and nourish our bodies and minds. As any restaurant owner or dinner party host will likely tell you, a well-curated menu and soundtrack can create the perfect multisensory experience. Though tastes in music and food may vary from person to person—or from animal to vegetable— the pleasure derived from a soothing melody and a savory meal speaks to us all. To the talented chefs, dancers, mixologists, and musicians who perform for us in the Land of Enchantment, we say, bravo!


Rhiannon Fraizer


Melinda Esquibel

CONTACT US Mailing Address: 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Phone: 505-375-1329

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-375-1329 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at

Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook, Editors

INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year. We distribute throughout central and northern New Mexico and nationally by

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at American Web Denver, Colorado No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2017 All rights reserved.

Winner of James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Publication of the Year


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

Romance, Drama, FUN! All at The Santa Fe Opera

Be surprised by an unforgettable night. Arrive early to enjoy tailgate dining, with a spectacular sunset and mountain

Photos: Paul Horpedahl, theater; Kate Russell, tailgate

views, before a stunning performance.

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CONTRIBUTORS ROBIN BABB Robin Babb is a freelance writer and editor living in Albuquerque. She mostly writes about food, music, and the great outdoors. You can find her writing in Albuquerque’s Weekly Alibi and at TrekSW.com.

MICHAEL J. DAX Michael J. Dax lives in Santa Fe and writes about environment and culture in the American West. He is the author of Grizzly West: A Failed Attempt to Reintroduce Grizzly Bears in the Mountain West (2015).

STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and received a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible Santa Fe in their backyard. Today, Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible Santa Fe.

NORA HICKEY Nora Hickey is a writer and teacher living in Albuquerque. Her work has appeared in Narrative, Guernica, DIAGRAM, and other journals. She podcasts with City on the Edge and teaches at the University of New Mexico.

WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton lives in Albuquerque and is an avid vegetable grower, forager, and editor of edible Santa Fe. He is writing a dissertation on the agricultural history of twentieth-century New Mexico in the history department at the University of New Mexico. CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral student at the University of New Mexico, an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review, and editor of edible Santa Fe. On Saturdays, you can find her selling Vida Verde Farm produce at Albuquerque's Downtown Grower’s Market. Follow her farm life on Instagram: @vidaverdefarmabq and @candolin.

ASHLIE HUGHES Ashlie Hughes is a food and drink writer living in Santa Fe. When not writing, she enjoys playing home bartender, learning as much as possible about the world of wine, and working on her photography portfolio. Her website is www. ashliehughes.com. SARA KEYSER Sara Keyser is a South­west-based personal chef and yoga practitioner. She is passio­nate about the art of feeding people pla­nt-based food. Outside the kitchen and yoga studio, playing in the mountains is Sara's jam. SAM L. MELADA Sam Melada is a local food and wine writer with a strong desire to make the history, language, and culture of wine more accessible and enjoyable to everyone. He is also a neuroscience nurse educator with UNM Hospitals and a graduate student in cognitive linguistics at UNM.


ediblenm.com #edibleNM


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

Drawing represents art as its root, the fundamental starting point for creation in both the arts and sciences for painting, sculpting, engineering, design and architecture. Art of the Draw Santa Fe is a multifaceted celebration of exhibitions and events featuring bold and provocative perspectives on drawing.

May 27–September 17, 2017

New Mexico Museum of Art Lines of Thought: Drawing from Michelangelo to Now: from the British Museum Ongoing

Georgia O’Keeffe Museum Drawings by the Artist

Santa Fe Desert Chorale July 7, 2017–December 31, 2018

IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts Action Abstraction Redefined

The eighth movement of Francis Poulenc's Figure Humaine, dedicated to Pablo Picasso, gives name to the Santa Fe Desert Chorale's program Liberté: Music of Resistance and Revolution. August 1 and 11, 2017 Performances in Santa Fe August 5, 2017 Performance in Albuquerque

nmculture.org/artofthedraw Clockwise from top left: Georgia O’Keeffe, Black Diagonal, 1919, charcoal on paper, 24 X × 18 ¾ in., Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, Gift of The Burnett Foundation, image © Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. ◆ Melchior Lorck, Tortoise and view of a walled, coastal town, 1555, charcoal, heightened with white on blue paper. Image © The Trustees of the British Museum. ◆ Pablo Picasso, Profil sculptural de MarieThérèse, 1933, etching, 12 ½ × 9 in., 020369, courtesy of LewAllen Galleries. ◆ George Burdeau (Blackfeet), Beast Series, 1964, mixed media, watercolor on paper, IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts.

LOCAL HEROES Edible recognizes this group of amazing individuals and organizations for their work to create healthy, sustainable food systems in New Mexico. We determine these awards through reader nominations and a reader poll. The local food movement is a grassroots effort that often involves late nights, backbreaking work, dirty fingernails, and being a generally good sport. In an effort to showcase these individuals, organizations, and businesses for their work to build a stronger local economy and a robust local food system, each issue this year spotlights several of the winners with interviews about the work they do.


Top left, clockwise: Farm to School Tour at Red Willow Farm; 2017 Food and Farms Day, at the New Mexico State Legislature; 2016 Garlic at Red Willow Farm; 2016 Farm to School Tour at Wagner Farms. Photos courtesy of Farm to Table.

Farm to Table began its work of promoting locally based agriculture through education, programs, community outreach, and networking more than fifteen years ago. Growing out of the farmers market movement, the founders set their focus on building a Farm to School initiative by bringing farmers together with schools to provide locally grown fruits and vegetables to children at school meals. Of equal importance, working together with strong partners, the organization began supporting community efforts to increase access to healthy and affordable food and linking customers to support programs. Through 6

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this mission, they also saw the need to do public policy and advocacy work, so they started the New Mexico Food and Agriculture Policy Council (NMFAPC), a public and private sector partnership, now one of the longest running food policy councils in the nation. According to co-founder and executive director Pam Roy, Farm to Table was “on the front end of focusing on food deserts in rural communities and worked on some of the first federal legislation to create programs for community-driven programs linking food production to community needs.� Local heroes indeed.




Helen Henry (administration and communication), Pam Roy (executive director and co-founder), and Kendal Chavez (Farm to School director). Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

What has been the biggest challenge for Farm to Table? What has been the biggest reward? Much of our work is long range, which means things don’t change overnight. When working with various communities and complex initiatives, everything takes time. Our Farm to School and policy work are both good examples. Both programs are about building relationships, often with groups and individuals who don’t know each other, yet who may benefit from learning about each other, such as farmers and school foodservice directors. At the same time, a policy or regulation may hinder progress. Changing policy at the local, state, and federal levels takes real commitment and can be complicated. Putting policies into practice is another layer of commitment. That’s why we have to be flexible and have a “long view” approach to what we do. This can also be the most rewarding! After more than twentyfive years in this field, we see how programs that we initiated locally, and even nationally, have come to fruition and benefit many people and communities. And there’s still more to do! How has the organization changed over time? We’ve grown with the field and have focused on meeting communities wherever they are in their own life cycle, being committed to helping them build their own capacity to take on projects and resources. In doing so, we’ve helped to facilitate a number of projects until they could spin off on their own. A couple of examples include the farm-to-restaurant program in Santa Fe, now Squash Blossom, and the Southwest Grassfed Livestock Alliance. 8

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As a small organization, little would be accomplished without major teamwork. Collectively, everyone benefits and our belief in partnerships has truly created a family of organizations working to create systemic change. In the last year we’ve focused on what we are uniquely poised to continue—the Farm to School and policy work—while transitioning programs, such as farmer trainings, to other organizations that are best suited to carry them on. What do you see as your role in the community? We are deeply rooted in Albuquerque and Santa Fe, but we also define the state of New Mexico and the wider Southwest as our community because of our work alongside a vast network of partners who come from different nations, cultural identities, and backgrounds. We are an evolving organization that always seeks to organize with and alongside communities. Instead of assuming we know best, we ensure our partners are speaking to their own experiences, dreams, and needs. Farm to Table’s unique and important role is playing operator between community members and institutions (food and nutrition services, boards of education, and the state legislature, for example) and helping to facilitate essential day-to-day work, from translating on-the-ground efforts in schools to helping shape policies and systematic shifts that people truly want and need. With our Farm to School work, we want to change the food and educational systems in schools to better serve our students through rebuilding a broken relationship to food and to the land. The only way to do that is to work with folks to design a solution that is best for their context. This manifests as educational school gardens in some spaces, garden-to-cafeteria

programs in others, and a ton of work around advocating for a just school food system statewide. We know that our policy work depends on our on-the-ground experiences of teaching youth in schools, and working with and learning from teachers, parents, and families in the community. What are the top three things our readers should know about Farm to Table? Interesting fact: Farm to Table’s legacy is rooted in the female perspective. From day one our organization has been founded, directed, and managed by a staff of all women. We believe in the sweet spot where policy, direct service, capacity building, and coalition building meet, and will always do our best to invest in this critical approach to solving complex problems in New Mexico. We have the honor of co-leading several New Mexico programs of larger national organizations, and we make it a priority to represent New Mexico in an authentic way when among communities that aren’t our own. FoodCorps New Mexico, National Farm to School Network-New Mexico, and Rocky Mountain Farmer’s Union are a few examples. Who would you like to see get more involved in Farm to Table and how can they participate? The success of this movement relies on the voices of parents, families, schools, and farmers advocating for themselves and their communities. Without people expressing their needs and concerns around local food in schools to members of the board of education, city council, and state legislature, our collective work will fail. Decision makers need to hear from their constituents that these are not insignificant, surface issues, but rather the foundation we all need to improve our health, build our local economy, and reconnect to the land. Call your school board representative and demand that your child has access to a school garden in their school, write a letter to Governor Martinez and request information on how much the state spends on procuring local food every year, and most importantly keep spreading the essential message of food as medicine, health, and progress to your people. Anything else you would like to share with our readers? We want to send infinite gratitude to our dear partners without whom we couldn’t do this collective work (you know who you are). You help to sustain the movement. To the elders, families, teachers, and school staff who nurture our youth to become expansive and curious human beings, our farmers who understand the natural rhythms and rooted ways of being necessary to feed us all every day, the policymakers and agencies that are spokes to the whole wheel, and the youth who are our future. Know that you’re making a difference and that every little thing you do to support and evolve our local food system matters. Keep on keepin’ on! www.farmtotablenm.org WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



Santa Fe School of Cooking


Nicole Curtis Ammerman and Susan Curtis. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Growing up near the banks of Idaho’s Snake River, founder Susan Curtis regularly enjoyed the bounty of a communal table laden with fresh produce and home-cured meats. She raised her family in New Mexico in the same way, with a convivial sharing of work and pleasure. The Santa Fe School of Cooking opened in 1989 with a mission to celebrate and promote the historic traditions and signature regional cuisine of New Mexico. Curtis’s foresight, focus, and passion have made the school a home-grown success story. Director of operations Nicole Curtis Ammerman, also Curtis’s daughter, is fully immersed in the school’s mission. Love of family and friends drew her back to Santa Fe in 1993, with business and marketing skills honed at the University of Arizona. Her dedication to New Mexico’s culinary traditions enriches the scope and abilities of Santa Fe’s original cooking school. What do you love most about local food? Susan: Having lived in New Mexico for almost forty years, I am 10

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

addicted to chile and its accompaniments, the three sisters: beans, corn, and squash. The resulting local dishes are definitely my go-to comfort foods. Nicole: I appreciate the simplicity of New Mexican food. I like preparation that features a few key ingredients and doesn’t overcomplicate it. How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? Susan: In 1989, I was having a midlife crisis as part of an empty nest situation, and I asked myself how did I want to spend the rest of my life. I had been fortunate enough to travel extensively in other parts of the world, and the high point of the travels centered on the food and wine of each region. I had attended the New Orleans School of Cooking several years prior, and the idea surfaced to create a regional cooking school right here in Santa Fe. Hence, the birth of the Santa Fe School of Cooking!

Do you have a serendipitous moment? Susan: Purchasing our new space five years ago. We really had not intended to buy a building, but the stars aligned and we are thrilled with our new school space. Do you have a favorite menu item and why? Nicole: I am a big fan of carne adovada! It is one of our signature dishes here at the school, and I never get tired of it. What are some of your favorite places to eat and why? Susan: The Shed, La Choza, Restaurant Martin's, and Arroyo Vino––they all have great food! Nicole: I agree with Susan, but I also really enjoy Izanami and Sazón. The truth is we are lucky here in Santa Fe to have so many incredible restaurants to choose from! If I had the chance, I would have lunch with ______________ at ___________ . Susan: Alice Waters at Chez Panisse! I’d like to ask her if she feels that the US has made substantial progress in healthy eating, particularly in the public schools. I would relish a discussion on what can be done to create healthy relationships with food for our kids. Tell us about your life outside of SFSC. Susan: My primary focus outside the business is and has always been my family. However, by this time, the business is an integral part of our family, and the family involvement is part of our success. We love the friends we have made, the many activities of the school, and really everything about it. When we’re away from the school, we love to ski, hike, travel, share meals, watch movies, and just spend time together. Nicole: I am still raising my family and so I am very involved in my children’s lives, schools, and activities. They bring me enormous joy!

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What’s your favorite way to spend a day off? Nicole: Being outdoors! Either hiking or biking, then ending up with a glass of wine on my back patio watching the sunset. What are most people surprised to learn about you?

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Nicole: I am too tired to cook dinner by the time I get home! What do you love the most when it comes to your work and passion? Susan: Since Nicole is doing such a great job as director, I am not at the cooking school as much, but I do love to stop in and visit with our wonderful staff and guests. Often the guests thank me for starting the cooking school and providing them with the opportunity to learn in depth about the culture and the food of the area. This expression of appreciation for the cooking school experience provides me with a great deal of gratitude. www.santafeschoolofcooking.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM




Left: David Gaspar de Alba; photo by Stephanie Cameron. Right: Gaspar de Alba works the clay-laden soil at Cecilia’s Organics farm in Polvadera; photo by Candolin Cook.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

Polvadera is a verdant historic farm community on the west bank of the Rio Grande in Socorro County. Most of the large family farms in the area specialize in livestock or in conventionally grown crops, such as green chile, alfalfa, and corn. However, Cecilia Rosacker’s twenty-eight-acre farm, Cecilia’s Organics, produces heirloom vegetables, such as eggplants, tomatoes, and beans, as well as dozens of flower varieties. Rosacker affectionately calls this little organic oasis “Polvaderadise.” As we pulled up to her property, Rosacker and a small handful of volunteers, including her son Carlos McCord, head farmer at Los Poblanos, were already hard at work transplanting pepper starts. Without hesitation, Gaspar de Alba grabbed a hoe and began making furrows in the soil. “My love of food began with farming,” Gaspar de Alba told me. He grew up in El Paso, but every summer he would visit extended family in Benson, Arizona, and help out on their farm. “I was basically child labor,” he said with a laugh. “We’d sell pecans and produce by the side of the road. They raised cattle and rabbits. It was [instilled in me] that that’s the kind of food you should be eating—the type cared for in your backyard.” His interest in knowing where his food comes from was cemented in Portland, where Gaspar de Alba began his culinary career in 2003. His impressive resume in the Pacific Northwest included stints at the Screen Door, Portofino, Belly Timber, and celebrated sushi-spot Yakuza. “All the best chefs in Portland shop at the farmers markets,” he said. “They know which farms have the best of a particular item, and you have to show up early because it can be competitive.” When I asked how Albuquerque’s markets compare to Portland’s, he said, “It’s definitely smaller here. The soil in Oregon is so fertile and the [fruit and vegetable] varieties are limitless. Also, because the farmers make more money and have so much more product to move, they can afford to cut deals, sell in bulk—it’s very easy for restaurants to source locally.”


Chefs work long, demanding shifts, often late into the night. But early one Sunday morning in May, Artichoke Café’s new executive chef David Gaspar de Alba arrived promptly at my door, ready to carpool to Polvadera, New Mexico, to help a farmer plant her summer crops. My husband, Seth, also a farmer, handed him a cup of coffee and the three of us piled into my car to make the hour-long trip south. I didn’t really know Gaspar de Alba, but I was already impressed that a chef would want to spend a rare day off working in a field. Over the course of the day, he continued to impress me with his culinary and farm knowledge, skillful cooking, and genuine passion for supporting local food.

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Since returning to the Southwest two years ago, Gaspar de Alba has become intimately aware of the struggles New Mexico farmers face growing produce in the desert. The chef initially relocated to Santa Fe to help create the menu and cook for Radish & Rye, which prides itself on local-sourcing, then moved on to Izanami at Ten Thousand Waves, where he could draw on his years of experience cooking Japanese cuisine. But in the summer of 2016, Gaspar de Alba decided to swap out his chef knives for a broad fork, and spent the season working for Silver Leaf Farms in Corrales. “I was looking for a different experience, and me and the guys at Silver WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



Left: Artichoke Café's duck confit with black-peppered strawberries, snap peas, and beets. Right: scallops with black morels. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.

Leaf have similar views about food. It taught me how hard [that work] is—here, especially,” he said. Even though Gaspar de Alba has since returned to the kitchen, he continues to be involved with the local farm community—as a patron, volunteer, and friend. “I hope to create opportunities for my staff to experience local farms as well,” he said. “Understanding where the ingredients come from makes you more excited to cook with them.” Rosacker also thinks it’s important for chefs to visit farms, especially at the planting stage. “Sometimes a chef will come to check out the farm when the crops are ready for harvest. But to see it on days when it’s just dirt, and experience the hard work that goes into making our dry, clay-laden soil [hospitable for plant growth], is important. Two months will go by before we have anything to show for the work we did [during Gaspar de Alba’s visit],” she explained. “Actually, I wish everybody who eats local food could experience it. I think there would be a much deeper appreciation for the challenges of growing things in New Mexico.” At Artichoke, Gaspar de Alba acknowledges local food providers by listing many of them on a chalkboard in the dining room and by educating the servers on the provenance of the menu’s ingredients. “Whether it’s wild-caught Chinook salmon from northern Washington, lamb from Encino, or morels from the Sangre de Cristos, the story of the ingredients needs to be communicated to the customers. Diners who spend their money on sustainable and local foods are voting for restaurants to support those practices,” explained Gaspar de Alba. Since taking over Artichoke’s kitchen, Gaspar de Alba has been steadily incorporating new menu offerings and specials. “Some classics will remain on the menu, but we’ve seen a lot of new clientele coming in who want to try something more experimental,” he said. Gaspar de Alba’s dishes are flavorful but clean with a strong seasonal focus. For instance, in the spring, customers should expect dishes featuring local baby beets and pea shoots rather than heavy cream sauces. His background in Asian cuisine (most 14

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recently displayed in his short-lived but much-loved Oni Noodles food truck at Marble Brewery) also sneaks its way onto the menu: “I don’t want to do ‘fusion’ so I kind of hide it in there by infusing some of those umami flavors—from seaweed, fish sauce, miso—into something like lemon sage butter. Diners can tell there’s a great back flavor going on but can’t identify it.” He sees Albuquerque’s local food scene as a market primed for expansion and innovation, and he wants to be part of the cohort of chefs, farmers, producers, brewers, and distillers leading the charge. “It’s exciting and rewarding to be part of the change.” After the volunteers at Cecilia’s Organics finished the planting that Sunday afternoon, Rosacker invited us all back to her beautiful adobe home, where she prepared Swiss chard red chile enchiladas and a farm greens and citrus salad. She handed Gaspar de Alba a pound of beef kidneys harvested from her cattle and asked if he had any idea how to cook them. “I don’t really know how to prepare kidneys,” she said, “but my African friends like to buy them.” Taking that cue, Gaspar de Alba took some Berbere spice mix out from the cupboard, made up a quick marinade with vinegar, salt, and sugar, then pan-seared the kidneys with the Ethiopian spices and New Mexico jalapeño powder. He finished his experimental dish with shaved raw red onion, baby cilantro greens, and a squeeze of lime. Everyone was blown away with how he was able to come up with something so delicious on the fly. We worked off the meal with a late-afternoon hike through San Lorenzo Canyon, only to follow up with fresh-baked cherry pie back at Polvaderadise. Reflecting on having spent his day off at the farm, the chef said, “Hey, you can always do your laundry another day. Hanging out with people knowledgeable about food, eating, drinking, and talking (about food) is my idea of a great day. One of the best I’ve had since moving to Albuquerque, actually.” 424 Central SE, Albuquerque, www.artichokecafe.com www.facebook.com/CeciliasOrganicHarvest

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Dinner and an Opera PRODUCE-DRIVEN MENUS FROM EDGAR BEAS OF THE ANASAZI RESTAURANT By Ashlie Hughes · Photos by Douglas Merriam


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One of the unique perks of summer in The City Different is the Santa Fe Opera. Housed in an architecturally stunning open-air venue, the 2017 lineup will offer performances of Die Fledermaus, Lucia di Lammermoor, The Golden Cockerel, The (R)evolution of Steve Jobs, and Alcina that run throughout July and August. With many of the operas starting at 8pm, it can be a challenge to get in and out of restaurants with enough time to spare. That’s where Rosewood Inn of The Anasazi comes in. Located in the historic downtown plaza, the hotel’s Anasazi Restaurant is offering a three-course prix fixe performance menu, created by Executive Chef Edgar Beas. The menu, which is offered on performance nights starting at 5pm (half an hour earlier than the restaurant usually opens) and concludes by 7pm, caters to the opera’s time constraints without skimping on creativity or flavor. For the first course, guests can choose between an heirloom tomato and melon salad with avocado, tomato water, and guanciale; grilled peaches and burrata served over locally harvested baby greens and tossed with a hazelnut vinaigrette; or a gazpacho inspired by ingredients sourced from the Santa Fe Farmers Market. The second course is a choice between wild king salmon paired with heirloom carrots and roasted beets; an English pea tortellini with charred avocados, cavolo nero, and crema; or pan-roasted chicken with polenta, bing cherries, and Swiss chard. To complete the meal, the restaurant offers two desserts, a white chocolate cheesecake or a dulce de leche panna cotta. Embracing what is seasonal and locally grown is paramount for Beas, as demonstrated in his ingredient choices on the prix fixe menu. Beas’ cooking style is produce driven and emphasizes the importance of texture—such as his charred avocados and thin, crispy guanciale—as opposed to focusing on one specific cuiOpposite: Growing Opportunities heirloom tomatoes with melon, guanciale, and avocado mousse on the prix fixe performance menu at the Anasazi Restaurant.

sine. He is experimental and frequently utilizes modern techniques, for example, working with liquid nitrogen to freeze dry certain ingredients. Raised in California and Mexico, Beas initially dreamed of studying medicine, but the high costs of medical school led him to embrace his true passion, cooking. Following his dream would lead Beas to stints in Michelin-starred restaurants from California to Spain, where he worked for a year in a town not far from the Basque country food mecca, San Sebastian. Before joining the Rosewood Inn of The Anasazi, Beas spent several years in the San Francisco area where he enjoyed utilizing the region’s plethora of fruits and vegetables. Initially worried that he wouldn’t have access to many locally grown options in northern New Mexico, Beas soon realized he had nothing to fear. Now, a year and a half later, Beas has cultivated relationships with more than a dozen New Mexican farmers and purveyors. “It’s kind of an old world thing. We all help each other out and it benefits all of us,” he says. Beas was particularly impressed by the abundance of local ingredients. “There’s a lot of orchards up in Velarde, there’s squash blossom fields and greeneries and flowers and wild edibles everywhere.” Beas is even known to forage ingredients from his own backyard, from prickly pears and juniper berries to edible flowers. The results of Beas’ labors are not only creative in flavor, but also in appearance. Regina Ortiz, the hotel’s director of sales and marketing says that Beas “takes a lot of pride in his menu creation. You can see the personal touch and time and effort that he puts into it. The [dishes] are very well thought out and they are beautifully done.” The hotel also offers a “Tailgating for Two” experience for guests staying on the property. The menu includes small bites like spicy peanuts, olives, and chicharrones, as well as more substantial fare like smoked salmon bagels, a charcuterie plate, or an artisanal cheese plate, and two dessert options. The meal is packaged in a picnic basket and comes with a collapsible


table, two chairs, dinnerware, flatware, and wine glasses. Another perk for those staying overnight at the hotel is an after-opera menu, allowing guests to order cheese or meat plates, dessert, and/or a bottle of wine to be set up in their room prior to their return from the event—a delicious ending to a beautiful night of cuisine and culture in Santa Fe. rosewoodhotels.com/Anasazi

The three-course prix fixe menu is $45 per person. Wine is not included in the price, and walk-ins are welcome. The tailgating package is priced at $75.

Top left: Opera tailgate artisanal cheese plate with selection of locally sourced cheeses, fruit preserves, honeycomb, and fruit bread. Top right: Executive Chef Edgar Beas. Bottom right: Wild king salmon with heirloom carrots, trout roe, and roasted beets.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017




Bean-to-Bar Chocolatiers in New Mexico CHOKOLÁ AND CACAO SANTA FE

By Robin Babb · Photos by Stephanie Cameron


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

At Chokolá—top left, clockwise: Tasting trio of mousse, truffle, and drinking chocolate; Javier Abad tempering chocolate; separating cacao from shells; the mousse bar.

In the back room of Chokolá, Javier Abad greets me with a telltale smudge of chocolate on his chin—evidence that he’s been enjoying his work. “Come see our new baby, the Madagascar,” he says eagerly, and leads me to a tall stand mixer that’s spilling a heavenly aroma through the room. The mood-elevating effects of chocolate pervade the small Taos shop. Owners Abad and his wife Debbie Vincent, along with their assistant Ruby Oland, all wear seemingly permanent smiles as they go about their work. It’s contagious. Vincent and Abad opened their craft chocolaterie just off the Taos Plaza last August in an attempt to change the way people make and consume chocolate. In the small room behind their storefront (“the factory”), they make single-origin chocolate bars, truffles, and their specialty mousses. “Craft chocolate” didn’t really become part of the American culinary lexicon until the early two thousands, around the same time that the popularity of craft beer began skyrocketing. Since then, craft chocolate makers in the US have been steadily multiplying in response to the farm-to-table movement and the growing consumer demand to know where food comes from and how it’s made. New Mexico, which has long been fertile ground for both craft brewers and farm-totable initiatives, has provided a home for a couple of these bean-to-bar chocolate makers in recent years. As with craft brewers and local smallyield farmers, craft chocolate makers must also be teachers. Customers want to know why they should buy a ten-dollar bar of single-origin, ethically made chocolate instead of a three-dollar name-brand bar at the grocery store. To help consumers understand the difference a few dollars makes, Vincent begins her lesson with the dark colonial roots of modern chocolate. “The history of chocolate is very violent,” she says. Cacao, like coffee, has historically been wrapped up in unethical labor practices and ecologically destructive mass-farming. Bean-to-bar chocolate makers like Chokolá are trying to change that by using only single-origin cacao beans from fair trade farms and cooperatives. Chokolá buys much of their cacao from Venezuela. “They’ve been growing ca-

cao the same way for centuries there,” Vincent says. “They don’t grow [hybrid] beans or anything. Before they harvest, they go out and pray to the cacao trees.” In the bean-to-bar movement, Vincent sees potential to effect real change in the fraught and neo-colonial world of chocolate making. “Historically, making chocolates was something reserved for Europeans.” Typically, though, it’s Latin American and African countries that grow the cacao—a much more labor-intensive, but much more poorly paid art. This trend could be changing, though. The Bolivian cooperative El Ceibo recently earned distinction for being the only cacao grower to make their own chocolate in-house. Today they control the entire process, from planting the trees to distribution and sales. Another New Mexico chocolate maker trying to demystify the way chocolate is sourced and made is Cacao: The Art & Culture of Chocolate. The company’s facility in Santa Fe is part factory, part storefront, and part classroom. Regular workshops and tastings are hosted by Melanie Boudar, a founder of Cacao and a board member of the Fine Chocolate Industry Association. When I visited, she was in the middle of a guided tasting. “CCN-51 is sort of the scourge of the chocolate world,” she tells the handful of students who are gathered to learn about the controversial origins of chocolate. The cacao bean from the CCN-51 plant is used to make most commercial chocolate candies. This hybrid plant is designed to be high-yielding, disease resistant, and uniform in flavor. It is this uniformity, says Boudar, that makes most mass-produced chocolate bland, flavored more with sugar than with actual cacao. The CCN-51 bean, she explains, also artificially lowers the cost of chocolate. Farmers can grow and distribute it with unnatural speed, and in unnaturally high volumes. Like Chokolá, the chocolate makers at Cacao are dedicated to transparency and ethical labor practices. Transparency may be easier for Cacao, as Boudar owns shares in two farms that grow cacao: one in Hawaii, the other in Belize. “The cheap chocolate



At Cacao Santa Fe—top left, clockwise: Cacao chocolate bars and truffles; hand grinding cacao beans; filling molds with tempered chocolate; cracking bars from the mold.

bar you buy at the conventional grocery store was most likely produced by slave labor,” says Derek Lanter, the co-founder and coffee maestro at Cacao. “We’ve found that ten dollars is the magic number. At ten dollars, everybody involved in the process of making a bar gets a living wage.”

late drinks are dark and earthy. Some are even spicy. They taste much closer to coffee than to any foil-wrapped chocolate confections. The secret is rare, flavorful heirloom cacao varieties that have been grown for centuries, but that are being marginalized by the monopolistic CCN-51 bean.

Customers are rewarded with chocolates that are anything but bland. As we chat around a card table in the company’s workshop, Mark Sciscenti, the resident chocolate historian and pastry chef, serves up a flight of chocolate elixirs prepared with traditional Mayan and Mexican recipes. These choco-

Besides the shared ethics behind their work, the chocolatiers at Chokolá and Cacao also aim to make exceptionally good chocolate. Be forewarned, though; they all agree that if you grew up on Swiss Miss and milk chocolate, craft chocolates may challenge your taste buds at first. Chokolá’s Vincent


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

can empathize; it took age and awareness to refine her palate, she says. “I ate a Hershey’s bar every day when I was a kid!” These days, she tries not to be pretentious about chocolate to her customers, while still attempting to expand their palates. “I still eat a chocolate bar everyday, but now it’s chocolate that I make, just the way I like it.” Chokolá 106B Juan Largo Lane, Taos 575-779-6163, chokolabeantobar.com Cacao Santa Fe 3201 Richards Lane, Santa Fe, 505-471-0891 cacaosantafe.com

Red River Mexican Restaurant

Rocky mountain fun.

Homemade Mexican food served in a casual southwest atmosphere in Red River. Appetizers, Sundance specials, lots of combos, sopapillas, and steaks. Beer, wine, sangria, and wine margaritas available. Reservations recommended.

401 E High Street, Red River, 575-754-2971



Red River Blue Grass Fest September 14 – 17

It doesn’t get any better than great American music outdoors in a fantastic mountain setting at our 43rd Annual Southwest Pickers Bluegrass and Old Times Music Festival!

Aspencade Arts & Crafts September 22 – 24

Red River Aspencade 2017 SEPTEMBER 22-24

Premier Artisans • Fantastic live! Music Southwest Cuisine & More


A premier fine arts and crafts event, plus a folk music festival among the crisp air and fall colors in the beautiful town of Red River.

Oktoberfest October 6 – 8

Don your lederhosen or dirndl and head for a cool stein of beer, authentic German food, music, dancing, games, arts & crafts and lots of family fun. Prost!

RedRiver.org/events @RedRiverNM






Still Spirits

ADDS NUANCE TO ALBUQUERQUE’S BREWERY MATRIX By Michael J. Dax · Photos by Sergio Salvador


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

Two years after receiving their federal distilling permit, Zac Hulme and Peter Arathoon opened Albuquerque’s newest craft distillery last April. Still Spirits is across from Marble Brewing’s downtown taproom. While new craft breweries have swept the nation—Albuquerque now boasts more than twenty—local distillers have been much slower to embrace and adapt to this local craft movement. As both Hulme and Arathoon lament, many people don’t even realize that spirits can be—and are being—made locally. “We’re starting at square one,” says Hulme, who handles the technical side of the business, including the distillery’s equipment and tasting room design. “Some people don’t even understand that you can be a distillery.” That’s exactly the mindset they’re determined to change. In addition to making high-quality spirits, Hulme and Arathoon are committed to educating their customers that hard alcohol isn’t just for parties, but can be sipped and appreciated, too. Hulme and Arathoon have known each other for twelve years, initially meeting as architectural associates at a firm in Albuquerque. They’ve experimented with the distilling process for roughly five years, but distilling, unlike homebrewing, is strictly regulated by the federal government. It wasn’t until they secured their current location that they were able to receive a federal permit to begin official operations. Since then, they’ve been building out the space and refining their recipes. “We enjoy the process and the hands-on aspect of it,” says Arathoon, adding, “we appreciate the nuance that spirits have.” Like many new distilleries, Still Spirits’ first product is a vodka, which Hulme describes as a “technical product.” It’s supposed to be neutral and flavorless, but that doesn’t mean it’s boring. “There’s so many different ways you can go with vodka,”

Left: Zac Hulme built the bar, tables, and drink rails using natural wood that complements the building’s more industrial roots.

Hulme notes. “It’s a world of experimentation,” which is where Arathoon, who designs the cocktails, lets his creativity take over. In addition to standards like Moscow mules, gin and tonics, and Bloody Marys, all of which Arathoon is particularly proud, their menu features experimental drinks like the Turmeric-Tonic-Tini, Raskolnikov (vodka, cold-brew coffee, half and half, and simple syrup), and the Red No. 4 (hibiscus-infused vodka with ginger beer, soda, and Peychaud’s). Arathoon has also experimented with different tinctures to flavor new, innovative drinks. “There’s a whole, vast spectrum of flavors you can put together that don’t necessarily fit into most people’s idea of what a cocktail can be,” says Hulme. Arathoon has also been in the process of developing a gin and a whiskey. The gin will likely be a traditional London dry gin with heavy notes of juniper and coriander. For the whiskey, instead of using wheat or rye, Arathoon has opted for the locally available triticale, a hearty Scottish grain he describes as being somewhere between the two more commonly employed ingredients. “That’s one of the great things about distilling,” says Hulme. “You come up with some unique and interesting stuff with what’s available.” After this two-year process of opening the tasting room, Hulme and Arathoon agree that the positive reactions they’ve received from customers, both those who are already familiar with craft spirits and those experiencing them for the first time, have been the most rewarding aspect. But that doesn’t mean it’s all about the drink. “Your experience of the drink in your hand has a lot do with the things in it,” says Hulme. “But it also has a lot to do with the person who served it to you and the process they went through making it.” To this end, Hulme, who built the bar, tables, and drink rails using natural wood that complements the building’s more industrial roots, wants the low-key aesthetic to match the casual atmosphere they’re attempting to foster. “We wanted to let our ideas and our presence evolve from the place we’re in.”

Step Into History

The past comes to life at El Rancho de las Golondrinas living history museum. Experience these exciting weekend events: September 16–17, 10am–5 pm The 10th Annual Santa Fe Renaissance Fair Enjoy incredible performances and music, delicious food, and arts and crafts vendors at New Mexico’s premier Renaissance Fair. September 30–October 1, 10am–4pm Harvest Festival Taste syrup from our burro-driven sorghum mill and help make cider at a traditional apple press. Stomp grapes by foot and roll your own delicious tortilla by hand.

(505) 471-2261  www.golondrinas.org 334 Los Pinos Road, Santa Fe partially funded by the city of santa fe arts commission and the 1% lodgers’ tax, county of santa fe lodgers’ tax, new mexico arts, and the santa fe new mexican


Hulme and Arathoon view Still Spirits as a quieter alternative to some of the other downtown bars and want customers to think of it just as they would a high-end restaurant where they can come to try new things and experiment with different flavors. “We want people to keep their minds open,” says Hulme. Looking toward the future, the pair hopes to open other tasting rooms and expand distribution, but for the moment their focus is on making quality drinks. “We’re just concentrated on the bar and the drinks and the culture and making a really good product,” says Hulme. “We want to be super proud of the stuff we do.” 120 Marble Avenue NW, Albuquerque 505-750-3138 www.facebook.com/stillspiritsabq Top: Peter Arathoon and Zac Hulme. Right: Still Spirits' Bloody Mary.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017





By Sam L. Melada · Photos by Gabriella Marks

Left: Black Mesa Winery vineyards. Right: La Chiripada Winery & Vineyard barrel room.

Ursula K. Le Guin wrote in The Left Hand Of Darkness, “It’s good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters in the end.” Contemplating these words at the Gruet Tasting Room in the Hotel St. Francis in Santa Fe, I began my latest Liquid Tourism wine trail through northern New Mexico. Although this trail has a designated end at the Taos Mesa Brewing Mothership in El Prado, the many options for wine, food, and leisure along the way make the journey less than fixed. As my Gruet wine educator poured a refreshing 2011 Gilbert Grande Reserve Sparkling and a dry Tamaya Still Rosé, I realized that this excursion through Santa Fe, Nambé, Velarde, Dixon, and Taos could be an overnight adventure or a more relaxed, multi-day affair. After the Gruet Tasting Room, the trail takes one north on NM 285 to the Estrella Del Norte Vineyard. This vineyard’s wines are only available through their wine club or at their on-site tasting room. Owner Eileen Reinders gave me a tour of the property while I sampled an outstanding Chenin Blanc and a Malbec, both made from 28

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

grapes sourced from the Mesilla Valley. The vineyard’s grounds lend themselves to a leisurely afternoon walking among trained fruit trees and flowers, or one can call ahead to find out about cooking classes or outdoor dining events offered while the weather is gorgeous. If you leave the winery with an appetite, El Paragua in Española is a unique New Mexican gem, brimming with old-fashioned ambiance. Or, if anxious to get back on the road, pick up some burritos right next door at El Parasol. The next destination is Black Mesa Winery, about twelve miles north in Velarde. If the weather permits, I recommend stopping along the way at the Fruit Basket for fresh, seasonal fruit, cider, and preserves, as well as some kid-friendly treats. At Black Mesa, Scott, the wine-tender, provided me with a diverse sampling of reds and whites, including an earthy and vibrant Cabernet Franc grown in the Abbott Vineyard along the river. Scott recommends New Mexico River Adventures for anyone interested in rafting, kayaking, or paddleboarding.




Left: Rafting on the Rio Grande. Right, top: Vivác Winery. Right, bottom: Classical Gas Museum.

Continuing on NM 68, toward the tasting rooms at La Chiripada and Vivác Wineries in Dixon, you will pass Sugars, the legendary roadside eatery in Embudo, where you might stop for excellent burgers or barbecue. Follow your meal with a stroll down to the Classical Gas Museum, just a few hundred yards down the street. With an eclectic collection of gas pumps and architectural salvage from the fifties, sixties, and seventies, you might be surprised at what you find as you walk around the grounds. If you are in the mood for lighter fare, try Zuly’s in Dixon on NM 75, just before you get to La Chiripada. Sandwiches, salads, ice cream, and espresso beverages are all served in the shade of large cottonwoods. At La Chiripada, Amanda, the tasting room maven, poured me tastes of the Blue Heron Blanc and their Viognier, while recommending the Pilar Yacht Club as an option for both food and rafting. If you want to get out and eat (or just sit) by the Rio Grande, she recommends the County Line area up the road for easy water access. At the Vivác Tasting Room, a short drive north of La Chiripada, I stood among the vineyard’s Riesling vines and sampled a crisp Grüner Veltliner and a citrusy Chenin Blanc. A member of Vivác’s knowledgeable staff, Taylor, suggested I take a road less traveled to my final destination. Rather than taking NM 68 all the way to Taos and then NM 64 to El Prado, he recommended I take NM 570 along the Rio 30

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Grande, starting with a left turn at the rafting signs in Pilar. Following his advice, I drove along the river, passing multiple overnight campgrounds (which I highly recommend for travelers with more time), and ultimately ended up on a slightly bumpy dirt road that emerged on the far side of the Gorge. I followed NM 567 to its intersection with Upper Rim Road, and continued north to NM 64, just west of the Gorge Bridge. From there it was a short drive to food, beer, and music at the Taos Mesa Brewing Mothership. Whether one takes the low road or the high road or both, it’s worth taking your time and enjoying your wine slowly. Accommodations in Taos vary from the luxurious rooms at El Monte Sagrado Living Resort and Spa, with amazing cuisine from Chef Cristina Martinez, to the unique artisanal intimacy of Casa Gallina or La Doña Luz Inn. Whatever your plans, make sure to stop at Chokolá Bean to Bar for a chocolate experience you will not find anywhere else. You may want to take this wine trail more than once to take full advantage of everything it offers. Enjoy the journey. Wineries in this story: www.estrelladelnortevineyard.com, www.blackmesawinery.com, www.lachiripada.com, www.vivacwinery.com, www.gruetwinery.com To learn more about New Mexico wineries visit: www.nmwine.com

Your table awaits...


A Santa Fe tradition for over 50 years! Reservations: 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com photo: Kitty Leaken

Quench your thirst this summer with handcrafted cocktails

Daily Happy Hour 3pm-6pm Visit our Instagram @hiltonbuffalothunder to learn more about Painting on the Patio Art Classes every Thursday in August! e

And donʼt miss our Wine & Chile Dinner coming in September! redsage-sf.com | 505.819.2056

Fano Bread Company is a family-owned and operated bakery based in Albuquerque. Chefs choose Fano Brioche Kaiser Rolls for their Green Chile Cheeseburgers! All of our breads are baked fresh daily and are available for wholesale delivery or individual purchase at our retail outlet.

4605 McLeod NE, Albuquerque ∙ www.fanobreadcompany.com 32

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017



Septemevent: ber 8 SANTA F E FARM ERS MA R



m ac k d o


Green Chile



wn . com



Cheeseburger Smackdown

tasting event: September 8


At the Santa Fe Farmers Market Pavilion

PASSPORT Passports valid though August 17, 2017 presented by







Cooking with Kids — for a healthy future —








ediblesantafe TAG us or use #edibleNM and your pics could be featured here. We always pick a favorite and send them a gift certificate to one of our favorite local joints.

WINNER travelnewmexico It is @goeksplore here again closing out the first day of my takeover. Although there is no shortage of great restaurants in Santa Fe, a must for any foodie is the Saturday morning farmers market at the Railyard. Make sure to arrive hungry and try a little of everything! #edibleNM

maurizio Now on the blog: my recipe for a sourdough brioche hamburger bun! This burger was topped with my lacto-fermented corn/tomato/chile/onions, homemade cucumber pickles, avocado, and a dash of sriracha + ketchup. Delicious. #sourdough #wildyeast #edibleNM

shed_project Carrot | pineapple weed | wax currant | goat milk. #shed #shedproject #sheddinnerproject #renegadedinner #handmadeceramics #naturalwine #wildclay #wildfoods #nativefoods #edibleNM

4birdsphotography "Again I resume the long lesson: how small a thing can be pleasing, how little in this hard world it takes to satisfy the mind and bring it to its rest." #wendellberry #ediblenm


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

Meet us in the beautiful Moreno Valley for a celebration of our region’s finest wines, artisan spirits, handcrafted brews & exceptional foods. Join your friends, family & neighbors for drinks, food, dancing, demos, golfing & more in one of New Mexico’s most iconic destinations.


Santa Fe's Historic Dining Venue Serving a FULL Menu Tuesday - Saturday 5pm to 1am

Sunday Brunch 11am to 4pm Back Secret Garden Patio

Chef Meathead Goldwyn AmazingRibs.com Join Meathead - New York Times Best Selling Author and founder of AmazingRibs.com, the world’s more popular outdoor cooking website. Chef Harry Soo Slap Yo Daddy BBQ Slap Yo Daddy BBQ is the love child of TLC’s BBQ Pitmasters Head Cook Harry Soo and top-ranked Kansas City BBQ Society teams in America.

as well as Cheryl Jamison SANTA FE, NM AL HAVENS A BAR N RANCH

alace 142 W. Palace Ave

Restaurant & Saloon



Jen & EVAN Doughty SANTA FE, NM Kent Smith ANGEL FIRE, NM Tom & Lisa Perini BUFFALO GAP, TX Mike Gilcrease ANGEL FIRE, NM Roland & SaNdra Saul HEREFORD, TX TOM BOWLES DENVER, CO Kevin McCaffery ANGEL FIRE, NM




Photo by Stephanie Cameron


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Break out the white tablecloth but leave the fine silverware at home. You can eat most of these dishes with your fingers. This healthy fare is easy to source locally and celebrates the season’s colorful bounty with an easy twist of opulence in each dish. Please note, however, that these dishes, all made together, require several hours to prepare. So if you have limited time, consider pairing just a couple of these recipes with ready-to-go fare such as charcuterie and cheeses.



BEING THER E an extraordinary shop


Serves 4

first fr iday artscr awl aug 4

Effervescent, slightly sweet, super fresh, and just a little tangy. This beautiful fruit cocktail is a perfect spritzer for a summer evening. Replace the watermelon with 1 cup raspberries and 1/2 cup water, and the lemon with the juice of a whole lime, for an equally exquisite toast.

shop's 1st year an n iversary! art in august on moutain road aug 12-13

1 cup lemon cucumber, peeled and sliced 2 cups seedless watermelon, cubed Juice of 1/2 lemon 2 12-ounce cans sparkling water or club soda Small bunch of fresh mint leaves Garnish A few whole mint leaves A few thin slices cucumber 1/4 teaspoon fresh grated ginger Small pinch of black pepper (optional)

patio shop coming soon!

Process juice ingredients in a high-speed blender until smooth. Strain (optional) and pour the juice into a large jar. Seal and chill in the refrigerator. Pack ice for drinking. Roll cucumber slices and mint leaves in a damp paper towel and place into a recloseable bag. Serve chilled fresh juice over ice with sparkling water. Garnish with fresh mint, cucumber slices, and grated ginger. For a little kick, top each cup with a few grains of black pepper.

CRISPY POLENTA ROUNDS WITH GOAT CHEESE, PEACH, AND ROSEMARY SEA SALT Serves 4 The sub-acid zing of a fresh peach is enriched by the rich fluffy flavor of local chevre. These flavors are set off by the rosemary salt and well supported by the moist savory polenta. A great finger food to kick off your tailgate. 1 cup polenta 4 cups water 2 tablespoon olive oil

september : first fr iday artscr awl sept. 1

stor e hours: wed - sat: 10am to 6pm sun: 12pm to 5pm mon & tues: closed

1315 mountain road nw, abq, nm 87104 (505) 433-3204 | beingther eabq.com


Left to right: chicken satay lettuce wraps with coconut peanut sauce; crispy potato fries. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.

Sea salt to taste 2 ounces Camino De Paz School & Farm chevre 1 freestone peach, pitted, thinly sliced (use a mandolin, if possible) 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil Garnish Dash of balsamic vinegar Dash of extra-virgin olive oil Pinch of sea salt mixed with a pinch of crushed dried rosemary In a large deep pan, over high heat, bring water and a pinch of sea salt to a boil. Gradually stir in polenta with a longhandled spoon. Reduce heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thick; add olive oil and sea salt to taste. Lightly cover a baking sheet with oil. Pour mixture onto baking sheet and spread to a thickness of about 1/4 inch using spatula. Cover and allow to stiffen completely, preferably in the refrigerator overnight. Preheat oven to 450° F. Cut the stiff polenta into 1-2 inch rounds with a cookie cutter. If the rounds are thicker than a 1/4 inch, cut crosswise so they become crispy in the oven. Cover a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper, or grease with high heat oil, such as grapeseed oil. On the baking sheet, spread the polenta rounds and douse with 38

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

grapeseed oil. Flip each polenta disc and rub around in the oil-doused parchment paper to cover with oil. Make sure there is space between the polenta slices so that they will get crispy. Place in oven. When you start to smell the polenta, about 15 minutes, remove pan from oven. Flip the polenta and return to oven. Let roast for 15 minutes more, until polenta is browned and crispy around the edges. Remove pan from oven, break up the goat cheese, and place a chunk on each polenta disc. Return to oven for 5 minutes. Remove pan from oven. Next, place thin peach slices atop the goat cheese on each polenta slice, gently pressing the peach slice into the goat cheese to secure. Let cool completely. To travel, you can place parchment paper between layers of the polenta discs. To serve, drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and a sprinkle of rosemary sea salt.

CHICKEN SATAY LETTUCE WRAPS WITH COCONUT PEANUT SAUCE Serves 4 This tasty recipe is interactive tailgate fare. The flavorful chicken is set off by the fresh crisp lettuce, scallions, and cilantro. The creamy coconut peanut sauce will emit a guaranteed “yummmm” from your fellow diners.

Chicken 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, diced 1 teaspoon turmeric 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon raw sugar 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Thumb-sized piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 1 tablespoon coconut oil, for frying Peanut Sauce 1 teaspoon coconut oil 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger 1 small native New Mexico chile pepper, deseeded and finely chopped 3/4 cup pure full-fat coconut milk Juice of 1 lime 3 tablespoons pure peanut butter 1/2 tablespoon tamari Dash rice vinegar Dash fish sauce (optional) Fresh Mix 5 scallions, finely sliced 1 carrot, peeled and shredded Handful cilantro, roughly chopped 2 small heads Bibb or butter lettuce, washed

Garnish 1/2 tablespoon red pepper flakes Handful salted peanuts, roughly chopped 1 lime, sliced into thin wedges For chicken: In a large bowl, place diced raw chicken with spices, sugar, garlic, and ginger; toss to coat. Cover and marinate in fridge for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Heat oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, continuously turning until cooked, about 6–8 minutes. For peanut sauce: Heat coconut oil in a small pan; add the garlic, ginger, and chile. Heat for about 30 seconds, stirring continuously. Turn stove to simmer. Add the coconut milk, peanut butter, toasted sesame oil, and tamari. Whisk until peanut butter is homogenized in sauce. Let simmer 2–3 minutes. Add lime juice, vinegar, and fish sauce to taste. Pour sauce into small container; cool before sealing. How to enjoy: Mix cold, cooked chicken, scallions, and cilantro. Place on serving plate and top with salted peanuts. Give everyone a spoon and let them dig in, breaking off lettuce leaves and placing a generous spoonful of chicken mixture in the middle of a lettuce leaf, top with peanut sauce, red pepper flakes, and a squeeze of lime.

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Left to right: Tangy beet and arugula salad; crispy polenta rounds with goat cheese, peach, and rosemary sea salt. Photos by Tira Howard.

CRISPY POTATO FRIES WITH CASHEW SUMMER HERB DIP Serves 4 This cooling herb dip takes the edge off the spicy fries. They are perfect for a Santa Fe summer evening. Their color emulates the desert sunset; the herb dip is the taste of farmto-tailgate. These crispy treats allow for the ultimate luxury: indulging in the healthy side without compromising the ohso-irresistible crunch and creamy texture we all crave. 1 1/2 lbs fingerling potatoes 2 teaspoons arrowroot or tapioca powder 2 teaspoons cornmeal 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon paprika powder 2 tablespoons avocado or sunflower oil, or more to coat Sea salt to taste Few pinches of fresh cut sprouts for garnish (optional) Dip 3/4 cup raw cashews 1/4 cup water 1 garlic clove 40

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1 generous handful of mixed summer herbs (such as thyme, parsley, oregano, and tarragon) Juice of 1 lime 1/2 small ripe avocado 1/2 teaspoon sea salt, or more to taste 1/2 teaspoon black pepper Fries: Preheat oven to 425° F. Line one or two large-rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Slice potatoes lengthwise to create thick strips, skin on. In a small bowl, mix arrowroot or tapioca powder with cornmeal and spices. In a separate large bowl, toss potatoes with dry mix and oil, covering each fry completely. Spread fries out on the parchment covered baking sheets. Make sure there is space between each fry so that they get crispy and don’t end up steaming in the oven. Place potatoes in hot oven. As you begin to smell the roasted potatoes, open the oven and give each pan a gentle shake, moving the pan forward and back, to toss the fries. After 15 minutes, check the fries, toss, and rotate the pans. Roast until golden brown and crispy, about 30–40 minutes total. Once roasted, remove from oven and sprinkle fries with sea salt. Let cool. Cover with pinches of fresh sprouts or herbs (optional) and serve with the dip.



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Caitlin Jenkins of Simply Social, Walt Cameron of edible, and Joshua Hinte of edible toast to a successful tailgate. Photo by Tira Howard.

Dip: Place cashews in a canning jar and cover with water. Seal and place in the refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight. Drain and rinse the cashews and place all of the summer herb dip ingredients into a high-speed blender or food processor. Blend on high until a thick and super smooth dip forms. You can add a splash more water to help things along if your blender is having a hard time getting things moving. If using a food processor, stop occasionally to spatula off the sides and mix into the processing bowl. If using a Vitamix, use the tamper to help the machine mix the dip. If desired, add extra lime juice, salt, pepper, and herbs to taste. Chill and mix before serving. Add sea salt to taste and garnish with a few pinches of fresh cut sprouts.

TANGY BEET AND ARUGULA SALAD Serves 4 There is something magical about the vibrant and piercing colors of steamed beets. The inner designs emulate a kaleidoscope. Doused in a tangy dressing, their sweet essence is complemented by the peppery bite of arugula. Top with edible flowers for an opulent edition. This summer salad is a feast for all the senses. 42

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1 bunch (about four) beets, any color 2 handfuls of arugula Scant handful edible flowers (such as arugula flowers or nasturtiums), for garnish (optional) Dressing 4 tablespoons avocado oil 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon raw sugar 2 teaspoons hot water (to dissolve sugar) 1/4 scant teaspoon black pepper Sea salt to taste Peel beets and cut into wedges. Place beets in a steamer over a pot of water; cover. Bring to a boil, then turn down heat to medium-high on the stove, tossing beets in the steamer occasionally. Let beets steam until they are soft when pierced with a fork. Remove from heat and let cool. Dressing: Place hot water in bowl, add sugar, and whisk to dissolve. Add remaining dressing ingredients and whisk until creamy; add more lemon juice or spices to taste. Gently toss dressing over beets. Pack beets separately from fresh arugula; toss together just before serving. Garnish salad with edible flowers.

BLACKBERRY RASPBERRY CRISP Serves 8 This gluten-free, oat- and almond-based topping of pecans, shredded coconut, and raw amaranth and millet creates a lovely crisp texture that is divinely complemented by a honey-glazed blackberry-raspberry filling. A classic way to complete a summer tailgate. Filling 4 cups raspberries 1 cup blackberries 2 tablespoons arrowroot starch 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/3 cup honey Topping 1 cup old-fashioned oats 1/2 cup almond meal, packed 1/2 cup chopped pecans 1/4 cup shredded coconut 1 1/2 tablespoons raw amaranth

1 1/2 tablespoons raw millet 1/3 cup lightly packed brown sugar 5 tablespoons coconut oil, melted Dash sea salt Preheat oven to 350° F. Rinse and drain berries, and remove any stems. Pat dry in a clean kitchen towel and then place berries in a 9 x 9-inch baking dish. Add the arrowroot powder and cinnamon; toss to mix. For greater ease, grease a 3/4 measuring cup with coconut oil before filling with honey. Add honey to the berries. Gently toss until berries are coated. In a separate bowl, place oats and all topping ingredients, except the coconut oil. With clean hands, mix the melted coconut oil into the oat topping, scraping the sides of the bowl, and gently crumble the topping between finger tips until the mixture is moist. Do not overmix or break down oats. With hands, spread the topping over the berries (do not pack or press down), covering the berry filling. Bake about 45 minutes, until the topping is golden brown and the filling is bubbling around the edges. Let the crisp cool before travel or serving.

For this issue's Cooking Fresh department, edible teamed up with Simply Social to capture our tailgating test kitchen during the @SimplySantaFeNM Lucia di Lammermoor #sfoInstaMeet ​at the Santa Fe Opera. Tira Howard @tirawan and Stephanie Cameron @stephcameron captured the images.








By Willy Carleton · Photos by Douglas Merriam


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I spotted people dipping strawberries into chocolate fondue, some eating oysters, and still others camped out with chips and salsa. All picnic fare, from the over-the-top to the bare-bone basics, is fair game for the opera.


stepped out of my truck and immediately heard the pop of a bottle opening. More than two hours before the opening-night performance of Die Fledermaus, the parking lot already brimmed with operagoers. “Champagne or prosecco?” I heard someone ask. “Actually, I think rosé,” was the response. All around me, tailgaters in an assorted mix of tuxedos and masks, operatic costumes, cowboy hats, and elegant dresses set up white-clothed tables, often with exquisite flower arrangements and tall candlesticks, against the backdrop of the Sangre de Cristos. Curious about the food on the tailgaters’ tables, I began meandering through the surreal maze of vehicles and diners to absorb the spectacle and, perhaps, meet some of the faces behind the masks. My minor worries that the sea of strangers would prefer not to chat soon dissipated as I walked through the parking lot, greeted with nothing but smiles. I soon came across a family seated beneath a large umbrella next to a tailgate brimming with food. With a congenial handshake, Norman Tafoya explained that the impressive spread on the tables behind their car included pâté, shrimp, kale salad, carrot cake, and fresh cherries. He and his family come every year to take in the full atmosphere of the opera and the tailgate. “You walk around the parking lot and you hear so many different languages . . . and so many people are all willing to share their food and drinks here,” explained Tafoya with a wide smile. “It’s just beautiful.” Indeed, as I continued to make the rounds, I saw what he meant: people shared food and stories generously at every table where I stopped.

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I soon discovered an unanticipated creative side to the food at the opera tailgate. Stopping at a long table of operagoers, many of whom were wearing clothes fitting for an eighteenth-century castle, I met Michael Nunnally, wearing a festive tricorne, who explained that not only were their clothes in theme with the opera, but so was their food. The fare, inspired by the night’s German opera, included two types of sauerkraut, red cabbage with apples, assorted European cheeses, a German-style potato flan, and a delicious blackberry cobbler, which the group kindly shared with me. Other groups also shaped their meal around the night’s opera. Not far from Nunnally’s group, a boisterous crowd sat around a white-clothed table with large candlesticks in the middle. “Please try Opposite: Tailgating spread by Maya Fuentes and the Tafoyas. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


062617 iota esf_f.pdf

some of our fried bat,” offered one of the tailgaters. On the table, amid a large spread of food, lay a dish with a crispy and cooked winged animal covered with a deep purple sauce. I offered a skeptical smile and a nervous laugh. “Don’t listen to him,” replied another, “he just likes to spin yarns.” The “fried bat” was actually a grilled cornish game hen doused with a blueberry and apricot balsamic glaze—yet another Die Fledermaus inspired dish (die fledermaus is German for “the bat”). “They were fun to make,” explained tailgater Toni Martorelli. Like many others, the group makes opening night at the opera, decked out with meals inspired by the night’s performance, a tradition. “We’ve come to every opening night for the last twenty-five years,” explained Richard Romero of Albuquerque. C



As I made the rounds, I found that no two tailgates were the same. Some set up tables in the back of their pickups and drank salt-rimmed margaritas, some dined on simple cheese plates and red wine, and some drank beer and ate sandwiches. I saw a solitary man, dressed in a Batman mask and cape, contently reading a newspaper after a simple meal at his small folding table-for-one. Not far away, a particularly lucky group of tailgaters feasted on a five-course menu prepared by Chef Susan Anzalone of Gold Leaf Catering. The exquisite fare, paired with several wines and port, included homemade Scottish salmon gravlax with chive cream cheese on endive; halibut carpaccio with shaved fennel and pickled cucumber; sliced beef tenderloin with wild mushrooms; and chocolate panna cotta on cornmeal cookies with a cherry compote. Elsewhere, I spotted people dipping strawberries into chocolate fondue, some eating oysters, and still others camped out with chips and salsa. All picnic fare, from the over-the-top to the bare-bone basics, is fair game for the opera.





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If preparing a tailgate is not your thing, however, there are plenty of other good ways to enjoy the night at the opera without succumbing to a growling stomach. For the past thirty years, the Santa Fe Opera has offered its popular preview dinners, which include a multicourse opera-themed meal, wine, and a pre-performance talk in the beautifully landscaped opera rehearsal grounds. If you’re in the mood for simpler fare, the opera also offers pre-ordered picnic meals, ranging from a local cheese box to steak dinners, as well as salads, pasta boxes, assorted desserts, or espresso from the Vladem kiosk. All the food is prepared by Bon Appetit catering, which works with Squash Blossom to use local ingredients, and the opera provides two sections of picnic tables so that you can dine with a view. In case you haven’t gotten your fill at the tailgate, there are also plenty of drink and snack options inside the opera house. The signature drink of the current season, the “Nut Job,” is a take on a Manhattan that consists of Atapiño liqueur and Colkegan singlemalt whiskey from Santa Fe Spirits, orange and walnut bitters, and sweet vermouth, finished with a cherry. The opera has been working with Santa Fe Spirits for several years, and each year develops a drink to match the spirit of the season’s performances. The name “Nut Job” alludes to two of this year’s productions: the famous Top left, clockwise: Tailgater popping champagne; Jennifer Padilla; tailgaters dine in front of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains; Khristaan Villela and Ellise Pierce. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


Top left, clockwise: Tailgate spread; tailgaters (left to right) Ellie Gray, Michael Nunnally, Marcia Emmerton, Lucy Bronfman; tailgater Bill Kuhn.

“mad scene” from Lucia di Lammermoor and the world premiere of The (R)evolution of Steve Jobs. As I continued weaving through the pre-opera parking lot scene, I mused on both the practical and extravagant side of tailgating at the opera. “Tailgating is a long-standing tradition at the opera,” Santa Fe Opera Director of Administration Tom Morris later explained to me. “I’d say it probably goes as far back as 1967, maybe longer.” Its deep roots likely derive from the opera’s location; unlike the vast majority of opera houses, this venue sits outside of town. Prior to there being many available food options at the opera itself, such as the preview dinners, operagoers had to be creative about their dining options. The necessity of eating before the show evolved into the tailgating scene of today, where the food provides a creative way for the crowd to make


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the most of their night and cook for friends and strangers alike. Tailgating offers more than a practical way to eat before the show; it is a highly social event that allows the dramatic spirit of the opera to suffuse the parking lot and build collective energy for the performance. When the shadows on the distant hills grew longer, and the expansive blue New Mexican sky began to blush orange and pink, the crowd packed up their food and flowers, folded their linens, and stashed their tables in their vehicles. The sounds of the birds, wind, and steady stream of distant cars once again took over the airwaves above the asphalt. Like that, the parking lot returned to its standard function—accommodating cars—and the collective mass of opera fans, sated with decadent and imaginative food, fluttered into the open-air opera house for the show.

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Living la Vida Flamenca A BELOVED SPANISH ART THRIVES IN NEW MEXICO’S CULINARY SCENE By Nora Hickey · Photos by Stacey M. Adams

The food served at Tablao mimics the muscular movements of performance that unfold before it. While dancers and musicians commune on stage, so too do flavors and ingredients on the plate.

Hotel Albuquerque’s Tablao Flamenco.


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he warm lights in the spacious, open-air room provide a low hum—a music all their own. Six figures on a stage sit, lit bright yellow, still as statues. As music, coaxed from guitars and drum, begins to shiver, so, too, do the women—seated, hair folded up and held by a comb, dresses long and colorful—and the single man standing behind them, slender and taut. The crowd watches with a silence that feels alive, heat and color ready to spill forth. And suddenly, it does. The stage lightens, and a man sings in Spanish with a voice that feels as warmly quenching as a Spanish sherry. The flamenco dancers sway in their places, not yet dancing, but communing with the audience and musicians before they begin their trio of famous dances.


The culmination of statewide effort, the Festival Flamenco Internacional de Albuquerque presents a variety of performances, tutorials, and celebrations, all flamenco focused, for a seven-day period. This Sunday night, cloudless with a nearly full moon, eager festival goers have gathered for the opening celebration in what has become the city’s foremost space for celebrating the relationship between food, drink, and flamenco, Hotel Albuquerque’s Tablao Flamenco. At Tablao, participants can order from a special menu of Spanish-inspired provisions while watching nuanced performances. Gilbert Aragon, executive chef at Hotel Albuquerque and its recently opened sister hotel, Hotel Chaco, and Chef Mark Miller of Coyote Café, in Santa Fe, created the menu for Tablao after travelling to Spain, the birthplace of flamenco. “In Spain, there are little houses that host tablaos (where flamenco shows are performed). I remember one where this woman had been putting together flamenco shows at 1am every day, serving gin and tonics with tapas like sliced meats, traditional chorizos, and it was just so fun,” Aragon remembers. “It looked simple, but it wasn’t—they are harvesting the best pork and curing it with years of tradition.” Although Aragon has Spanish roots, he didn’t really know or appreciate flamenco until that trip. “I truly understood why people are so drawn to it, it was like a trance, I was so focused on the dance, and the food was that perfect complement. The dance is so powerful and intense that the food has to kind of match that intensity,” he says.

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In their search for flavors as vibrant as the centuries-old performance, chefs Aragon and Miller found that going back to the roots provided a well of inspiration. Miller encouraged Aragon to look at foundational recipes and ingredients as ways to make their own unique mark. “For Tablao, we wanted to start with the true traditions and have a little fun with them, to put our own spin on it,” he recalls. The experimentation has led to culinary pieces of art. The food served at Tablao mimics the muscular movements of performance that unfold before it. While dancers and musicians commune on stage, so too do flavors and ingredients on the plate. “Those small bites are so powerful, there’s a lot of soul in that food as well, and that’s what the dance did. Spanish cooking to me is dancing,” he says. Marisa Magallanez, director of the National Institute of Flamenco, is a consistent organizer in New Mexico’s flamenco scene

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Above: Tabla de charcutería y quesos. Below: Hotel Albuquerque’s Tablao Flamenco performance.


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and at Tablao, in particular. She sheds some light on the history and importance of the unique experience that tablaos provide. “The tablao is a performance venue model that emerged in Spain in the early twentieth century as a platform to develop and cultivate the essence of flamenco. The built-in intimacy between performers and artists has seen the emergence of master artists throughout generations. While accentuating flamenco’s innate vibrancy and energetic downpour, the venue contributes to the cultural heritage that abounds in our state, enriching flamenco experiences for both locals and visitors year-round. Patrons and students benefit from exposure to culturally and artistically rich performances and embodied histories,” she says. The rousing entertainment that unfolds each night at Tablao during the annual festival, and each weekend during the rest of the year, is a result of decades of skirts swishing floors and heeled boots syncopating a beat to electrified crowds throughout New Mexico. The Spanish have been in the territory that is now New Mexico since Francisco Vasquez de Coronado led his expedition in 1540, but flamenco took a longer time to flourish in the state’s culture. Vicente Romero, Santa Fe native and world-renowned flamenco dancer, was a prominent figure in the state’s early flamenco scene of the 1960s. After returning to New Mexico from Spain in 1963, where he toured with the celebrated Ballet Español de Pilar López, Romero staged shows throughout the state, often to half-full auditoriums. The audience soon grew, however, when Romero took his art to Tesuque’s beloved restaurant, El Nido. There, he staged the intimate late-night tablao performances so common in Spain.

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One New Mexican who witnessed Romero’s electric dancing in Tesuque was John Sedlar, who remembers the nights as glittering with an indescribable energy. “I used to be a busboy at El Nido, and later, my friends and I would go to Tesuque to watch María Benítez and Vicente Romero dance, these iconoclast dancers, in a very small, very intimate setting,” Sedlar recalls. Even before he was witness to some of the world’s most dynamic performers in his home state, Sedlar experienced flamenco in its birthplace of Sevilla, Spain. His father brought the family to Sevilla when he was stationed there with the army. “It was this tremendous introduction. We lived off base and all spoke Spanish and went to the feria to see the small booths of flamenco dancers, horses, guitarists,” Sedlar recalls. He also remembers the clout of smells and flavors. “The food there is violent—someone would cook and the smell of olive oil, garlic, anchovies, the super strong flavors of peppers and saffron, and the dance flamenco are all very violent. You wonder why these bodies of these young dancers don’t disintegrate,” Sedlar says. After years of working in the food business, influenced by his experiences with Spanish culture and cuisine as well as his family’s own storied history with food (his great-aunt was Georgia O’Keeffe’s personal chef in Abiquiu), Sedlar opened his restaurant, Eloisa, in Santa Fe. Here, Sedlar developed a flamenco-inspired menu. To simply describe it as a meal, however, does little to paint the whole picture of the sensory experience of the dinners that emerged. Designed by Sedlar and Nicolasa Chávez, the author of WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


Duck albondigas and other tapas at Hotel Albuquerque’s Tablao Flamenco.

the definitive guide to flamenco in New Mexico, The Spirit of Flamenco, these events engaged all the senses. “There would be a tour of a flamenco exhibition led by Nicolasa, and then the guests would go to the restaurant and have three courses, then a flamenco show. I created the menus to celebrate this dance and Spain, using heirloom tomato, Serrano ham, simple crema Catalan,” Sedlar says. These marks of flamenco can be seen on Eloisa’s standard menu, as well. The performance of flamenco has enraptured many culinary visionaries of New Mexico. Restaurants such as The Cellar in Albuquerque and El Farol in Santa Fe create and serve their dishes in the milieu of the riveting art form. At La Boca, in the heart of Santa Fe, diners enjoy dishes of cured ham, black mussels, and octopus ceviche. Chef James Campbell Caruso infuses not only his food, but also his work ethic, with principles inherent to flamenco. “The duende, or the gypsy soul, that force that animates and ignites flamenco artists, is the same thing that drives me as a chef, as an artist, and as a restaurateur. It is part of an indescribable magic that exists in restaurants. I do not think it can be fully seen or defined, but it is noticeable when it is there and it is noticeable when it is not. We have experienced it at La Boca, so we have a vague idea of what to strive for, we do not always nail it down and fully express it, but when we do, the customers, staff, even the building, experience the vibe that can be felt for blocks,” Caruso explains. 54

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“It is a passion, a conviction, a commitment to cooking and hospitality that compels us to reach down deep, to convey this spirit to our guests, to sear the memory of the flavors and feelings of this moment in time into a long lasting buzz that makes the guests certain that they experienced something great, something positive, something out of the ordinary, something beyond the mundane, something unexpected, something they look forward to experiencing again, yet still, something that defies description,” he continues. And in that buzzing room at Hotel Albuquerque, where warm light spills from huge lampshades and people sit family style with strangers drawn to talking over platters of albondigas and olives, the atmosphere feels alive with something beyond words. When the performance begins, it is like a movie seen in Technicolor for the first time—the performers bathed in an assault of color, expressing everything from regret to exhilaration. After an hour and a half, each dancer ends more disheveled than when they began. The love in this room for expression, for passion, and for life, is as visible as their loosened hair, the sweat on each performer’s brow. The crowd cries and claps furiously. The community embodies what Magallanez defines as flamenco: “It is more than a form of art, it is a lifestyle.” www.hotelabq.com/dining-nightlife/tablao-flamenco www.labocasantafe.com, www.eloisasantafe.com www.nifnm.org/National_Institute_of_Flamenco

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The Songwriters’ Kitchen From Al Hurricane to The Handsome Family, from Deuter to the New Mexico Philharmonic, from Robert Mirabal to The Shins, New Mexico has a deep history of diverse musical traditions and many highly accomplished musicians. For this issue, we focus our attention on a few of our state’s talented songwriters. We asked each about their music and how it’s inspired by our local landscape, history, and culture, and which local dishes are music to their taste buds.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

Lone Piñon dining at El Camino Dining Room.

Lone Piñon

Photos by Stacey M. Adams

Jordan Wax’s additional lyrics (with his own translation) to Roberto Martinez Sr.’s “El Corrido de Río Arriba” Este corrido termina / Cuando se haga la justicia / cuando renazca la tierra/ cuando muera la codicia / cuando por fin se respeta / al prójimo como a uno mismo/ ¡Arriba nuestra rebeldía / Abajo el colonialismo! (This corrido will sound / Until justice is finally done/ Until our land can be reborn / Until greed loses its hold / Until at last we can respect The rights of all people / May the memory of our struggle awaken / And uproot the legacy of colonialism.) WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


Lone Piñon, left to right: Noah Martinez, Jordan Wax, and Greg Glassman.

Lone Piñon is an acoustic trio from northern New Mexico whose music celebrates the diversity of their region's cultural roots. Using violin, accordion, guitar, quinta huapangera, guitarrón, upright bass, and harmony vocals in Spanish, English, and Nahuatl, the group has revived and updated the Chicano stringband style that once flourished in New Mexico, bringing a devoted and explosive musicianship to northern New Mexican polkas and chotes, virtuosic Mexican huapango and son calentano, and classic borderlands conjunto. The band features three musicians—Jordan Wax, Greg Glassman, and Noah Martinez—whose careers have woven through a wide spectrum of roots music before converging in 2012.

Which musical traditions most inform your music? What does this mix of traditions say about contemporary New Mexico? Wax: We started with a focus on old-school New Mexican stringband music from bailes in homes and dancehalls, and have expanded into New Mexican accordion music, country and western swing, classic conjunto, ranchera, boleros, Onda Chicana, and regional Mexican traditions—especially huapango huasteco and son calentano. Different strands of tradition from Spain, Mexico, Texas, and out East have woven themselves together, influenced each other, and existed side-by-side here for a long time, becoming part of a musical landscape that is as complex and diverse as the cultural landscape. It all belongs here in one way or another. All the different streams have distinct identities and histories but here they all intersect and coexist in a way you don't see other places—our repertoire is a little slice of that. 58

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Your music involves interpreting old songs from New Mexico and elsewhere. How does living in New Mexico shape these interpretations for you? Glassman: At most performances we are often approached by people who want us to know how deeply this music has been rooted in the soundtrack of their families’ lives over the generations, and that it means a lot to them to be able to see and hear a relatively young band breathe new life into the songs. As far as interpretations go, I think we can't help but approach the music with the contemporary ears and minds that we are products of, doing our best to do right by the integrity of the music and past musicians whose dedication has gifted us an enormous body of work to study and be inspired by. What a gift. And if we're so lucky, our love for the music and all of the energy we put into performing and rehearsing allows the torch to burn a little longer, for the next generation to pick up. Both music and food provide rich examples of popular folk culture in New Mexico and elsewhere. In what ways, if at all, does your music intertwine with the local food traditions of New Mexico? What can your experiences with maintaining, resurrecting (in some cases), and innovating on traditional forms of music teach us about how we approach local cuisine here in New Mexico? Martinez: Music and food traditions have a lot in common. They're experiences that can connect you through a deep familiarity that goes back even past what you can remember: the radio's been playing rancheras forever, just like you've been eating your mom's green chile chicken

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enchiladas at every family event since you were born. That deep familiarity sinks in and it becomes one with you—it's your tradition. Some of our favorite gigs are matanzas. We're generally asked to play a few throughout the year and my family is lucky to have held onto a small piece of land in the North Valley of Albuquerque where we raise animals and can do it ourselves. Those are the times when you can really see how keeping food traditions and musical traditions alive both need the participation of an entire, longstanding community. You need everybody. You need each person's contribution, and you have to have been able to keep that relationship healthy for that to happen. Being able to raise and butcher the animals requires a healthy relationship with the people who came before you and taught you that knowledge. You need their commitment to that knowledge. And then you need the collaboration of others: your grandma has to be there to make her red chile, your auntie has to be there to make her specialty bean dish, someone has to be good at making tortillas. Without the integrity they bring to each component, it wouldn't be the same. The same has been true for our work with musical traditions: you need everybody. A lifetime of connection as a bass player isn't enough—I need the musical contributions of others, and their lifetimes of connection. We need everyone who still wants to have traditional music at their matanza, wedding, event, or business. We need the people who still care about the dances, who have spent a lifetime maintaining that connection. We need the people who identify with and enjoy the music and support us at each performance. And for things to really thrive, for the authenticity of the tradition to really hold, each of those relationships has to have integrity. When everything's right, it has real power to transport you. That takes integrity in each ingredient, each part of the process, each relationship—then it's all connected. Then it's family. That's what it takes to keep something going. 60

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The “Corrido de Río Arriba” tells the tale of the Courthouse Raid of 1967 in Tierra Amarilla, led by the charismatic Pentecostal activist and legal scholar from Texas, Reies Tijerina. Why is this dramatic moment in New Mexico history important to memorialize? Is there a danger, when putting a complex historical moment to song, that the nuances get lost in favor of an over-simplified and, perhaps, overly romantic narrative? Wax: The Tierra Amarilla Courthouse Raid was a climactic moment of the longer movement of the Alianza and Tijerina to assert the right of Native New Mexicans to reclaim some of the millions of acres of land that were systematically and illegally taken from them since New Mexico became part of the United States. That movement paralleled Martin Luther King's civil rights work in the South and César Chávez's and Dolores Huerta's struggle alongside farmworkers in California. It was a time when America was forced to recognize the history of racism and do something—at least begin a process—to reduce the systematic oppression of African- and Hispanic-Americans. Unfortunately, the process here was cut short by the unexpected tragedy and violence of the courthouse raid and the subsequent imprisonment of the movement's leaders. Roberto Martinez's corrido portrays the event tragically and ends on a note of regret, which in our experience playing the song is how people of his generation remember the story: the violence was accidental, useless, and destructive to the positive action the movement was bringing about. His original song is certainly not very romantic. Roberto Martinez wrote this shortly after the courthouse raid, and now, two generations later, it's natural for us to retell the story in our own way. We've seen the successes of the Civil Rights movement, the Chicano Rights movement, the Black Lives Matter movement, even the Zapatistas in Mexico who shared some of Tijerina's less peaceful tactics, and the effects those movements have had to bring a greater degree of equality to people who have been marginalized

for generations. I think it's important to remember the work of the Alianza as a New Mexican component of this global movement: a step out of the legacy of colonialism and slavery. The way it ended is tragic, but right now it's important for young people here to be reminded not only of the failures of the movement. We need an example of how in New Mexico we can actively untangle the legacy of racism and colonialism and move forward without bad blood, or at least pass less oppression, anger, and tension onto the next generations. We need to acknowledge that Native New Mexicans have been deprived historically of their rights and land, and that is part of what shapes contemporary New Mexico. The movement of the Alianza and Tijerina can be a symbol for that process. Their efforts ended in failure and tragedy, but it's important to remember their courage and sacrifice and to move forward, in our own way, in that direction.

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How, in your opinion, does the historical struggle over landgrant rights remain relevant in regard to current issues surrounding local food production? Martinez: Where I live, I'm reminded everyday that there is a problem around access to land. I see people struggling to pay rent in small apartments built on the land that their ancestors once owned and farmed. Their autonomy was stripped away in the same process that has played out across all of northern New Mexico, and with that loss comes dependence on cheap, unhealthy fast foods and the range of health and social problems that predictably follow. The land-grant rights struggle of the Alianza was a way of addressing that process at its roots. It was a fight against the roots of colonialism and for the foundations of a healthier model. The process of dispossession was built into our system early on by the the failure of the US to keep its promise around land grants in the Treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo, and by a willingness to put economic and political gain over the health of the people and the land. The Alianza was fighting to bring that to light and to slow its impact. They were fighting to create a society in which there is room for our cultural values, and to express and revitalize something that has been the heart of Hispanic culture in New Mexico: that the land is still sacred, the most sacred thing we have, and is more valuable than money. They were saying that it's still the heart of our identity, and it's worth fighting for. In the end, the heart of the Alianza's movement isn't about ownership—because I have to recognize, even as a descendant of the land-grant heirs, that the land belonged to the Pueblo people long before we got here. The treaties were meant to protect the sanctity of our connection to the land and the health of that relationship at a time when our people were submitted to government by a political and economic power that didn't share that value. We're still working that out, and maybe now we're coming to a time when people of all ethnic and cultural backgrounds living in New Mexico can see how important it is to fix the mistakes of the past and move forward in a better direction. www.lonepinon.com

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CW Ayon Photo by Carol Ayon

“Catron County Time” Was just my brother and me living oh so wild and free all up and down the creek on that Catron County time


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

CW Ayon may call the Southwestern deserts of New Mexico home, but his soul is deeply rooted in the blues and grooves of the Mississippi Hill Country. With a rather simple kick/snare and tambourine setup, he lays down solid beats while picking out catchy hooks on anything from acoustic to resonator guitars—sometimes dropping in a bit of harmonica for good measure—ultimately building a sound and playing style that is deceptively larger than it seems. You’ve cited the blues of “Mississippi Hill Country” as the root of your musical inspiration. Do you see any connections between the South and the Southwest in terms of music and culture? Yes, the music from the north Mississippi Hill Country, particularly the music of Junior Kimbrough and RL Burnside. I was lucky enough to play in Clarksdale a few years ago and the area was very familiar to me. Just seeing all the agriculture and the landscape there reminded me of all the crops and fields here along the river. Good, hardworking rural folks just doing what they can to get by. Your song “Catron County Time” is about growing up in Reserve. How did that rural New Mexico upbringing influence your songwriting and musical tastes? I think that growing up in a small town allowed me to stay close to the roots of music and rhythm in general. Keeping it simple and sticking to the groove helps with getting people to dance and just let their hair down and give themselves permission to have a good time. Do you draw inspiration from the history and landscape of New Mexico?

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Lately, it seems I’ve been increasingly inspired by my hometown and New Mexico in general. I’ve been lucky enough to do a bit of traveling, and in terms of pure raw beauty, New Mexico still ranks at the top of my list. How has your Native American heritage influenced your love of and talent for music? Was music a big part of your household growing up? What kind? Growing up we went to a lot of powwows. I think being around the drum at a young age really cemented the idea of keeping a steady heartbeat in everything that a person does. My mother sang all the time as I was growing up. Country, oldies, just about anything that took her fancy. My brothers and I were always singing, too. Music was never pushed on us but it was never discouraged either. I considered it to be magic and the more that I get to play and learn about music, the more I firmly believe that it is. In “Catron County Time,” you sing about “Playing songs at Uncle Bill’s,” a local Reserve saloon. Tell us about it. What should we order to eat or drink if we stop by? Uncle Bill’s is the local watering hole, been there for years and years. I can’t even think of Reserve without it, that would just be too weird. It is a bar so it has certainly seen its share of rough nights and bar fights, but it was always a place where everyone seemed to get together for just about any occasion. I’m not sure about the menu, I just played there recently and I know that they have good old microWWW.EDIBLENM.COM


CW Ayon, photo by Philip Collins.

wave pizzas and some fried mushrooms. Both are awesome at the end of a night of music and drinking and dancing. You currently reside in Las Cruces. What is the music scene like there? Where are your favorite places to play? Where do you like to play in the rest of the state?

family and I try to get breakfast at when we can. Sparky’s in Hatch is definitely our go-to for a green chile cheeseburger. I’m very big on family and when I find a good mom-and-pop restaurant in New Mexico, it instantly puts me at ease. I just know that I’m home. What do you eat when you’re on tour?

The music scene here in Cruces is alive and well, although small. We have, in my opinion, some of the best bands and musicians around. Anything from metal to ska, rockabilly, traditional, country. Name it and we’ve probably got a band here playing it. I really enjoy playing in the smaller venues like High Desert Brewery and Vintage Wines. I enjoy the closeness, when people are close enough to touch and they’re really engaged in the music with me. It’s the best feeling in the world. As far as the rest of the state, the Mine Shaft Tavern in Madrid, the Western Bar in Cloudcroft, Milton’s Brewery in Carlsbad, and, of course, Uncle Bill’s in Reserve. This list could go on for awhile so I’ll just stop there. Every one of those venues has a unique town vibe but also a very familiar feeling, like returning home. I pride myself on my relationships with all of the bar owners and music bookers at these places. I consider them all part of a huge extended family.

I probably don’t eat as well as I should sometimes, but I try to seek out the small, local, family-owned places. The food and the atmosphere is always better.

What is your favorite restaurant in Las Cruces, and your favorite dish? Where are your favorite places to eat in the state? What do you love about New Mexico cuisine?

New Mexico seems to have a knack for making big towns feel small. I really enjoy the diversity and the richness of the culture, and of course the people and the food are just the icing on the cake. Sometimes the only thing that gives me the blues would be the heat here in Cruces. It can be relentless.

This one is easy—green chile enchiladas with an egg on top at El Sombrero, hands down. Best service and chips and salsa in my opinion. There’s a place in Santa Fe called the Flying Tortilla, that my 64

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Who are your favorite New Mexico musicians? Favorite songs by them or about New Mexico? Anything that A. Paul Ortega ever played is definitely at the top of that list. When I head out on the road I always listen to his “Traveling Song” from the album Two Worlds Three Worlds. I’m not one hundred percent sure if Vincent Craig is from New Mexico or not, he may be from Arizona, but I sometimes cover his song “Rita.” We used to hear it on the radio when I was small. What do you love about living in New Mexico? What about it gives you the blues?




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Eileen and the In-Betweens Photo courtesy of Eileen Shaughnessy

“Watermelon Mountains” My love she’s far / So very far / From these watermelon mountains / Watermelon mountains / Show me the way / Watermelon mountains / When I lose the day / Watermelon mountains / Guide me home

Eileen Shaughnessy is an educator, activist, and frontwoman of the social justice indie folk band Eileen and the In-Betweens. Shaughnessy teaches courses in environmental and social justice in the Sustainability Studies Program at the University of New Mexico. Her courses focus on racial justice, feminism, and nuclear issues. Shaughnessy’s songs and activism are rooted in queer anti-oppression work and the desire to mobilize art as a tool for social change. The band has released three full-length albums of original music and they have been invited to perform their uplifting social justice music across the US and Canada. Your songs “Watermelon Mountains” and “Bosque” tell stories of love and longing against the backdrop of some quintessential Albuquerque landmarks. What about the natural beauty of New Mexico inspires your songwriting? 66

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New Mexico has inspired many artists to try and capture its light and magic. When I moved here in 2010 from the Midwest, I fell deeply in love with the fiery sunsets and endless skies. I am very much inspired by the sacredness of the land, but I’m also moved to include some of the more complicated aspects of New Mexico’s past and present in my music. For example, the nuclear weapons industry has left a lasting and devastating impact on the land and people of New Mexico via environmental contamination and resulting negative public health impacts. When I look at the landscape, I feel compelled to sing about both the beauty and also the uncomfortable truths that mar the landscape. New Mexico is a land of paradox: the birthplace of one of the most destructive weapons ever made and a place of incredible peace and beauty. I try to honor this place by walking that razor’s edge in my music.




And in your neighborhood. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


You’ve described your musical genre as “social justice indie folk,” and many of your songs cover political themes pertinent to the Southwest such as nuclear destruction, water issues, and climate change. How can music be a useful tool for supporting these causes? I feel that right now, we need music that offers something tangible. So many people (communities of color, poor communities, the LGBTQ community, immigrants, migrants, protectors of the earth and of water) are scared and are threatened by the rising tide of hatred and fascism in this country. We need the artists, the musicians, and the dreamers (in addition to the politicians, doctors, and engineers) to conjure up a new way forward that is rooted in social justice and sustainability. I do my best to write songs that offer a bit of resiliency and uplift. I love to think about music as a form of alchemy or magic and experiment with music’s ability to shift energy. One tangible way to do that is to simply name the issues such as fracking, white supremacy, and homophobia. Language is powerful. Simply naming what is happening is powerful. I think it’s also vitally important to dance and sing, especially when oppressive forces take power. I’ll share a line from my song “Lovers and Fighters”: “Since we’re all on this plane together / And it’s going down in bad weather / We might as well just learn how to fly.” In what ways, if any, have food justice and agricultural issues entered into your work as a musician, teacher, and activist? One of the classes I teach is called “Nuclear New Mexico.” In that class, we dive deep into the environmental and social impacts of the nuclear industry via field trips, community experts, and intensive study. We know that plutonium and other radionuclides (directly connected to the building of atomic weapons) are present in the water and soil of New Mexico, which negatively impacts all of us. Uranium mining has disproportionately contaminated Navajo and Pueblo lands, which directly ties into access to clean water and healthy food. In my teaching, activism, and music, I’m committed to telling those stories and making the connections between protecting water, the earth, and each other. This summer Eileen and the In-Betweens toured the West Coast in support of the band’s third full-length album, We Ain’t Giving Up. Tell us about the inspiration behind this album. Initially, this album was shaping up to be a heartbreak album. I went through a difficult breakup with my longtime girlfriend and wrote many songs processing the relationship—and then the election happened. I wrote the song “We Ain’t Givin’ Up” the week after the election to process the grief, fear, and rage I felt, but also tapping into a deep sense of resiliency I feel that we all can access as human beings. The album and this West Coast and Canada tour we are on (“We Ain’t Givin’ Up: Social Change and Music”) is about sharing that resiliency we need to get through hard times. As we travel, we are connecting with social justice and sustainability-oriented groups and communities along the way to bridge the worlds of music and activism.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

What do you eat on tour? Three square meals a day and lots of veggies. Just kidding! Full disclosure: on this tour up the West Coast we all got a little obsessed with In-and-Out Burger, and we do have a steady supply of gummy bears in the van. However, right now, we are eating better than any other tour thus far because we are playing on so many farms and community gardens up the West Coast. We were basically paid in kale at a rural farm in California—and it was delicious! What is your favorite restaurant in Albuquerque, and your favorite dish? What do you love about New Mexico cuisine? My favorite restaurant in Albuquerque is either Last Call—late night burritos have saved me on many a weekend night—or Tia Betty Blues (blue corn pancakes!). I’m writing this from the Canadian border and specifically missing the New Mexico staples of green chile, blue corn, and piñon. I would trade all the fancy coffee in the world for a cup of piñon coffee. Mmm. How would you describe New Mexico’s music scene? Where do you see it heading? Who are some of your favorite local acts? I love being a part of New Mexico’s music scene. It’s an incredibly supportive community and I’m inspired by local bands like Wagogo, Cactus Tractor, and Lindy Vision. There is such a diversity of talent and I’m especially inspired by my fellow bandmates and the music they make: Lazarus Letcher who is an amazing solo viola artist in their own right; Tanya Nunez, a.k.a. Albuquerque’s most in-demand upright bassist; Ben Martinez, master of the piano and trumpet; and Colin Baillio, a multi-instrumentalist and talented songwriter. I’m excited as I see more queer, femme, non-binary, and musicians of color writing powerful music and sharing their stories. What can we expect at an Eileen and the In-Betweens show and what do you hope the audience takes away? One thing that we do at every show on tour is what we call a “land acknowledgement.” As we travel, we acknowledge and honor the indigenous people on whose stolen land we are playing music. We take turns researching and sharing the info with the audience. It’s one small way we keep ourselves conscious of colonization and land as we travel. At our shows you can expect a unique blend of stories, original music, and possibly some invitations to sing or stomp along. I hope the audience will leave inspired to bring a bit more healing into the world and to hang in there during these tumultuous times. When I sing, I’m especially singing to queer folks, people of color, people with disabilities, all those who are being targeted and attacked right now. We ain’t givin’ up! www.eileenshaughnessy.com www.eileenandtheinbetweens.bandcamp.com




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Boris McCutcheon

Photo by James Hart

“A Week Before the Fourth of July” Steering with my knees / Eating tacos / On an open road / By the mountains of my New Mexico / Feeling free and feeling so high...

Agriculture and music have been closely linked for much of Boris McCutcheon’s life. Boris grew up on farms in Massachusetts, where he learned to ride horses and discovered early on that there was a radio playing inside his head. At a young age, he started a market garden on one of the Elizabeth Islands near Martha’s Vineyard, where, in between growing vegetables, he wrote songs. In 1992, after deciding to pursue organic farming, he attended the prestigious University of California Santa Cruz Farm and Garden program and stayed on to study under Master Gardener Orin Martin. After establishing an organic farm in Sebastopol, California, he secured a draft animal internship at the Howell Living History Farm, where he learned to plow with an ox team. He moved to Santa Fe in 1996 to study permaculture techniques and to start a landscape business. In between installing landscapes, as always, he wrote songs. This eventually led to a music career that took him around the country. His music, as anyone who has listened to it knows, strives to portray New Mexico honestly and without cliché, and in small but certain ways seeps into the land and the food it provides. How has the New Mexico landscape shaped your music? How has rural life in northern New Mexico influenced your songs? What is your relationship to growing food? The New Mexico landscape affects my music in ways I'm probably not even aware of, or even understand. Just knowing the wilderness is there beckoning or seeing the acequia’s spring arrival causes an imme70

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diate contentedness in my gut, a peacefulness that is essential to my mental health and spirit. I am talking about the pristine wilderness, untouched and unmolested, and the ditch flowing like a lifeline that connects the community and the watershed. It has been my dream to be a part of this acequia tradition from very early on, which explains the title of my first album in 2001, Mother Ditch. In the beginning, I admired New Mexico for its poor and undeveloped, almost third world conditions, but I realized after living in rural New Mexico, far away from the opulence of Santa Fe, that it's not fun at all being poor or feeling invisible or stuck in a desolate trailer. Not until I lived off the grid on the High Road to Taos did I become aware of a lot of hopelessness, dysfunction, drug addiction, racism, and political nepotism. I still hate the casinos and what they have done to the New Mexico landscape but I realize people also hate being poor. New Mexico is a hard place to make a living. It chews people up and spits them out and sends them away with cholla in their skin. I have always been lucky and managed to find some job to get me by. You need to be resourceful or you will not make it here. So I think I have moved past the quaint visions of New Mexico and seen the dark side of running a ditch (I was mayordomo for six years) or driving through the beautiful country only to be run off the road by a drunk. I understand New Mexico very well these days from my experience surviving here for twenty-plus years. Living in small town New Mexico, you


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The Salt Licks Trio, left to right: Susan Holmes, Boris McCutcheon, and Brett Davis, photo by James Hart.

obviously see a lot of the same characters day after day. I have gigged out locally, run an open mic, and operated a fruit tree/landscape business from a small town for years, and the secret is not to get involved in small town politics. What I mean is, you can't lose your grip and fall into pettiness. I bring people together with music and sometimes prune those same people’s orchards. It behooves me to always try to see the light in people and focus on the good in them and try not to get derailed by a bitter comment or an old grudge that someone else wants you to adopt. This has certainly influenced me musically, spiritually, and economically. I generally write about my own experiences, or apply magical realism to a situation, or write about a character that I admire in the small community. My wife and I grow d'anjou pears and yellow delicious apples on three acres above the Embudo River in Dixon. We also have a small garden that we irrigate from a robust acequia that has had the same mayordomo for forty years! Our plan right now is to design and install a terraced food forest in the next five years with hops, raspberries,

blackberries, and currants among many large heirloom fruit trees. We aim to start selling our wares to farmers markets once we get our house and land in order. Some of the most tenacious, observant, and intelligent people on earth are farmers. I attended the UCSC Farm and Garden Program in 1992 and have been fortunate enough to come in contact with many organic farming pioneers. Despite my farming background I eventually went in a musical and bio-intensive gardening direction. I have written many of my best songs while working the land or pruning a fruit tree. In earthwork, there is something that satisfies my body and soul, and through this process comes a decent song or two. I have been blessed to have had the opportunity to get my hands dirty and irrigate a piece of land, raise children between wilderness and acequia, and still have the freedom to write. There is something deeply satisfying about a good meal with friends. It can be a powerful ritual. If you add some good music and perhaps a micro-brewed beer, voilĂĄ, you have heaven on earth. www.borismccutcheon.com

ONLINE FEATURE: Please visit www.ediblenm.com for links to and videos of the songs featured in this article. 72

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Photographer: Janson S. Ordaz

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Spice specialist with a variety of blends as well as extracts, sauces & specialty foods. 225 Galisteo St, Santa Fe, 505-819-5659, savoryspiceshop.com/santafe

Skarsgard Farms


Delivering fresh, local and organically grown produce and natural groceries to doorsteps across New Mexico. 505-681-4060, skarsgardfarms.com

Barrio Brinery

Talin Market

Santa Fe's source for fine fermented foods. 1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-699-9812, barriobrinery.com

Heidi's Raspberry Farm

600 Andrews, Corrales, 505-898-1784, heidisraspberryfarm.com

La Montañita Coop

3500 Central SE, Albuquerque, 505-265-4631; 913 West Alameda, Santa Fe, 505-984-2852; 2400 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-2428800; 3601 Old Airport NW, Albuquerque, 505-503-2550, lamontanita.coop

Santa Fe Olive Oil & Balsamic Company

116 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, 505-992-1601; 109 Carlisle SE Albuquerque, 505-266-6043; 103 East Plaza Taos, 575-758-4136; santafeoliveoil.com

88 Louisiana SE, Albuquerque, 505-268-0206; 505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-780-5073; talinmarket.com


Buffalo Thunder, Hilton Santa Fe

20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, Santa Fe, 505-455-5555, buffalothunderresort.com

Inn of the Anasazi

113 Washington, Santa Fe, 505-988-3030, rosewoodhotels.com/en/inn-of-the-anasazisanta-fe

Inn on the Paseo

A charming bed and breakfast located within walking distance to the downtown Santa Fe plaza. 630 Paseo De Peralta, Santa Fe, 505-984-8200, innonthepaseo.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



South Indian cuisine

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Sarabande B & B

5637 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-348-5593, sarabandebnb.com

Sunrise Springs

If you are looking to simply refresh and recharge or immerse in a transformative experience, we invite you to come rest, relax, and rejuvenate at our tranquil oasis in Santa Fe. 242 Los Pinos, Santa Fe, 877-977-8212, sunrisesprings.com

The Historic Taos Inn

125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos, 575-758-2233, taosinn.com


7933 Edith NW, Albuquerque, 505-899-6666, bacastrees.com

Grow Y'Own

505-466-0393, raisedbed.biz

Osuna Nursery

A family-owned and operated nursery, gardening center, and landscaping company. 501 Osuna NE, Albuquerque, 505-345-6644, osunanursery.com

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

Red River Chamber of Commerce 101 W River, Red River, 575-754-2366

Santa Fe Botanical Garden

The Santa Fe Botanical Garden celebrates, cultivates, and conserves the rich botanical heritage and biodiversity of our region. Museum Hill Location, 715 Camino Lejo, Santa Fe; Leonora Curtin Wetland Preserve Location, 27283 I-25 W Frontage, La Cienega, 505-471-9103, www.santafebotanicalgarden.org

Santa Fe Farmers Market Institute

A nonprofit educational organization founded in 2002 to support the Santa Fe Farmers Market. farmersmarketinstitute.org

Santa Fe Opera

301 Opera, Santa Fe, 800-280-4654, santafeopera.org

Silver City Arts & Cultural District

The downtown historic district in particular is home to more than a dozen restaurants, murals, and some thirty-plus galleries and artist studios​. ​Murray Ryan Visitor Center, 201 N. Hudson, Silver City, 575-538-5555, visitsilvercity.org

Taos Ski Valley

Northern New Mexico's diverse climate makes Taos Ski Valley a perfect destination for year-round recreation. 866-968-7386, skitaos.com

Town of Red River

2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795 The Shop is now serving dinner as the nightshift on Friday and Saturday nights from 5pm-10pm . Still serving local ,organic and in season dishes, rotating weekly menus to bring you something creative and fresh!

your existing look, our talented team of professionals are here to make it happen. 12500 Montgomery NE, Suite 107, Albuquerque, 505-299-3116, solariusspa.com

Wave Riders of the Ancient Way Wellness Center

Offering ancient and modern healing techniques and visionary tools for holistic balancing. Reiki attunements and multi-day retreats also offered. 4018 Ice Caves— one mile east of El Morro National Monument, 505-717-7841, waveridersoftheancientway.com

RETAILERS Durans Central Pharmacy

Unique compounding pharmacy, eclectic gifts, and great New Mexican food. 1815 Central NW, Albuquerque, 505-247-4141, durancentralpharmacy.com

Galleria Carnaval

A diverse and eclectic room of expression. The working studio of Standing Feather. 4019 Ice Caves—Hwy 53, one mile east of El Morro National Monument, 505-728-9611, galleriacarnaval.com

Next Best Thing to Being There 1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, beingthereabq.com

Sarabande Home


From zip-lining to fly-fishing, the town of Red River offers countless activities for every season. Breathtaking scenery and diverse terrain await exploration. redriver.org

Sarabande Home provides one-of-a-kind contemporary gifts, home decor, furniture, and personal accessories. 3845 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-344-1253, sarabandehome.com

505-827-6364, newmexicoculture.org



The mission of the Museum of New Mexico Foundation is to support the Museum of New Mexico system through fund development for exhibitions and education programs, financial management, and advocacy. 116 Lincoln, Santa Fe, 505-982-6366 ext.100, museumfoundation.org

Garden Gate Day Spa & Salon

Arroyo Vino

New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs

New Mexico Museum Foundation

New Mexico Wine winecountrynm.com

Red River Visitors Center

101 W River, Red River, 575-754-3030, redriver.org


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

We offer a comprehensive spa and salon menu including treatments for the body and the skin. 3216 NM-47, Los Lunas, 505-865-8813, gardengatespa.com

Garcia Auto Group

218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com


100 NM-150, El Prado, 575-776-8787, medleyinelprado.com

8449 Lomas NE, Albuquerque, garciacars.com


One of Albuquerque's most trusted spas for over 32 years. Whether you’re looking for a completely new look or want to enhance

Susan's Fine Wine and Spirits  

Solarius Spa

103 East Plaza, Taos, 575-758-1994, parcht.com 1005 S St. Francis, Santa Fe, 505-984-1582, sfwineandspirits.com

colombian bistro

now open

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795 theshopbreakfastandlunch.com Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www.ajiacobistro.com Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients.

Eat Local Guide Ajiaco Colombian Bistro

Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by the diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients. 3216 Silver SE, 505-266-2305, ajiacobistro.com

Artichoke Café

Fresh, local, seasonal ingredients, classic French techniques, extensive wine list, private dining, catering, and great atmosphere. 424 Central SE, 505-243-0200, artichokecafe.com

Durans Central Pharmacy

Unique compounding pharmacy, eclectic gifts, and great New Mexican food. 1815 Central NW, 505-247-4141, durancentralpharmacy.com


Starting with the finest organic flour, our pizza crusts are made by hand and topped with the freshest ingredients, including artisan cured meats. 510 Central SE, 505243-0130, farinapizzeria.com

Farina Alto

Farina Alto offers fresh, creative fare. Gather over a glass of wine, a good story, and a phenomenal plate of food. 10721 Montgomery NE, 505-298-0035, farinaalto.com

Farm & Table

A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, farmandtablenm.com

Five Star Burgers

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, entrées, salads, a kids menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4–6pm every day. 1710 Central SW; 5901 Wyoming NE, 505-821-1909, 5starburgers.com

Il Vicino Brewery

A contemporary Italian trattoria offering authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer. 11225 Montgomery NE, 505-271-0882; 3403 Central NE, 505-266-7855; 10701 Corrales NW, 505-899-7500, ilvicino.com

Level 5 - Rooftop Restaurant & Lounge

Located on the top floor of Hotel Chaco— experience a refined, chic, and contemporary atmosphere. 2000 Bellamah Ave NW, 505-246-9989, hotelchaco.com

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley. Join us at our restaurant, Wed–Sun 5–9pm, by reservation only. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Savoy Bar & Grill

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms. Wine tastings and happy hour. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Oak-fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town! 2031 Moun-










tain NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com

The Grove Cafe & Market

The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia coffee and tea, beer, wine, and signature sweets. 600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, thegrovecafemarket.com

The Shop Breakfast & Lunch

Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795, theshopbreakfastandlunch.com

Trifecta Coffee Company

We roast coffee and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet and savory, are made in house. 413 Montano NE, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com


Zacatecas, a real taquería, features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. 3423 Central NE, 505-255-8226, zacatecastacos.com

Zinc Restaurant & Wine Bar

A three-level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites! 3009 Central NE, 505-254-9462, zincabq.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM






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SANTA FE Anasazi Restaurant

The recently redesigned restaurant and bar celebrates the creative spirit of Santa Fe with a new chic, sophisticated design that complements the building's legendary architecture. Featuring Southwestern cuisine with regional Latin influences. 113 Washington, 505-988-3236, rosewoodhotels.com

Arroyo Vino

Arroyo Vino, voted a top 100 restaurant in America by OpenTable reviewers, serves progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com

Bang Bite Filling Station

Fresh. Local. Tasty. A bunch of food enthusiasts obsessed with serving the very best crafted food we can get and delivering it the way it was meant to be enjoyed. 492 W Water Street, 505-469-2345, facebook.com/Bang-Bite-Filling-Station

Blue Heron Restaurant

Dining at Sunrise Springs is a unique experience that may change the way you think and feel about food. Lunch, dinner, and Sunday Brunch are now open to the public in the newly-restored, historic Blue Heron Restaurant overlooking the spring-fed pond. 242 Los Pinos, 877-977-8212, sunrisesprings.com

Bodega Prime

As a restaurant, caterer, and retail store, Bodega Prime seeks to provide a memorable food experience in Santa Fe for locals and visitors alike. 1291 San Felipe, 505-303-3535, bodegaprime.com

Five Star Burgers

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrées, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4–6pm every day. 604 N Guadalupe, 505-983-8977, 5starburgers.com


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

TAOS DINER I & II Creative Casual Cuisine 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 www.taosdinner.com Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.

Il Piatto

A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list. 95 W Marcy, 505-984-1091, ilpiattosantafe.com

Il Vicino Brewery

A contemporary Italian trattoria offering authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer. 321 W San Francisco, 505-986-8700, ilvicino.com

La Boca & Taberna

With the feel of a lively European wine bar, La Boca offers modern Spanish tapas, unique international wine selections, and an extensive list of Spanish sherries. 72 W Marcy, 505-982-3433, labocasf.com

La Casa Sena

Local ingredients and distinct New Mexican flavors shine at this rustic-yet-elegant adobe restaurant. 125 E Palace Ave, 505-988-9232, lacasasena.com

Loyal Hound

Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St. Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com

Ohori's Coffee Roasters

The original specialty, local micro-roasted coffee source since 1984. Along with our fresh beans, we serve espresso, pour-over, teas, pastries, donuts, burritos, chocolates, and more. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St. Francis, 505-982-9692, ohoriscoffee.com

Paper Dosa

Paper Dosa brings fresh, authentic homestyle south Indian dishes to your table. These bright and exciting flavors will leave you wanting more. 551 W Cordova, 505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com

Radish & Rye

Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever

221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.

possible. We work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu. 548 Agua Fria, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com

Rasa Juice + Kitchen

An organic juice bar and café committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, coldpressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs. 815 Early, 505-989-1288, www.rasajuice.com

Red Sage

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list. 20 Buffalo Thunder, 505-819-2056, buffalothunderresort.com

Santa Fe Spirits

Hand-crafted, award-winning spirits made with New Mexico pride! Tours and cocktails available. Distillery, 7505 Mallard Way, 505-467-8892; Tasting Room, 308 Read, 505-780-5906, santafespirits.com


A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list. 304 Johnson, 505-989-1166, terracottawinebistro.com

The Compound Restaurant

Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon, 505982-4353, compoundrestaurant.com

The Palace Restaurant

Santa Fe's premier dining club. 142 W Palace, 505-428-0690, palacesantafe.com

TAOS Doc Martin’s

Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Patio dining, fresh local foods, awardwinning wines, and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos. 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-1977, taosinn.com


Five Star Burgers

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrées, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4–6pm every day. 1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, 575-758-8484, 5starburgers.com


SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTION OFFER 1 year for $16 (50% savings) 2 years for $28 (50% savings)


A casual, yet refined, dining experience featuring world class wines and culinary delights inspired by regional American cuisines with a touch of international flair. 100 State Highway 150, El Prado, 575-776-8787, medleyinelprado.com

Use promo code: SUMMER at



Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine. 908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374; 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989, taosdinner.com

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Taos Diner I & II

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/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-1994, parcht.com

The Gorge: Bar and Grill

Our menu is straightforward, yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-8866, thegorgebarandgrill.com

GREATER NEW MEXICO Algodones Distillery

15 Cll Alfredo, Algodones, 505-301-9992, algodonesdistillery.com

Ancient Way Cafe

A unique outpost offering great meals from scratch and fresh baked goods. Located 1 mile east of El Morro National Monument. 4018 Ice Caves Road, Ramah, 505-783-4612, elmorro-nm.com

FALL OF 2017 brought to you by

Blades’ Bistro

Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list. 221 Highway 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695, bladesbistro.com

Greenhouse Bistro

Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living. 5 Thomas, Los Lunas, 505-866-1936, greenhousebistro.com

Sundance Mexican Restaurant

Homemade Mexican food served in a casual Southwest atmosphere in Red River. Appetizers, Sundance specials, sopapillas, steaks, and lots of combos. Beer, wine, sangria, and wine margaritas available. 401 E High, Red River, 575-754-297

The is a celebration of local dining destinations and the bounty of seasonal ingredients grown in New Mexico. Select restaurants in Santa Fe and Albuquerque will prepare a prix-fixe dinner featuring sixty percent or more local ingredients this Fall.



Farmers, food & beverage artisans, food trucks, and restaurants can participate in the Moveable Feast by taking the Measure what Matters assesment.

thoughtfullyproduced.org WWW.EDIBLENM.COM




By Julian Martinez, Arroyo Vino From dining-room entertainment to musicians who moonlight as maître d's, the restaurant industry is brimming with musical talent. For this edition of Last Bite, we asked local musician and Arroyo Vino restaurant curator/headwaiter Julian Martinez to suggest a summer batch cocktail perfect for tailgating at the Santa Fe Opera. Martinez is a vocalist and multi-instrumentalist, currently playing in psyche rock band St. Petersburg (debut record out in September); folk rock group Black Tie; and his solo project Love & Whiskey. Martinez says, “Food, drink, and music truly define who I am. Like all of the arts, producing them in great form requires a deep level of thought, intelligence, awareness, and sensitivity. Being afforded the opportunity to build professions in both the food and beverage service and music industries has offered me the luxury of having my passions be my livelihood. It all keeps me culturally engaged and enlightened, supports my gregarious nature and eagerness to please, and ensures that art is constantly at the center of my life. For that, I am eternally blessed.” SANTA FE OPERA CORPSE REVIVER 2.1 Dating back to the 1860s, Corpse Reviver cocktails are aptly named for their alleged ability to cure a hangover. Try this version with local gin and absinthe from KGB Spirits. 3/4 ounce Hacienda Gin by KGB Spirits 3/4 ounce Contratto Vermouth Bianco 3/4 ounce Luxardo Triplum orange liqueur 3/4 ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice 1/4 ounce Brimstone Absinthe by KGB Spirits Orange twist (optional) For an undiluted batch to pour over ice, multiply all ingredients by 10 and build into a quartsized measuring pitcher. Using a funnel, pour into a 1-liter French water bottle.

PHOTO BY TIRA HOWARD TIRA HOWARD PHOTOGRAPHY Photo taken @SimplySantaFeNM Lucia di Lammermoor #sfoInstaMeet a ​ t the Santa Fe Opera.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2017

For a diluted batch to be served cold without ice, multiply all ingredients by 7 and build into a quart-sized measuring pitcher. Add 10 ounces of cold water. Using a funnel, pour into a 1-liter French water bottle and keep chilled until you're ready to serve. Whether diluted or not, shake well before pouring. Squeeze the zest oil from an orange peel onto the top of the drink, if you wish, and enjoy.





5 0 5 . 9 8 3 . 2 1 0 0 ∙ A R R O Y O V I N O . C O M ∙ 5 Y E A R S I N S A N TA F E


Profile for edible New Mexico

Late Summer 2017 - Food & Music  

In this issue of edible, we explore relationships between food and music. From the tapas at local flamenco shows to the dramatic cuisine of...

Late Summer 2017 - Food & Music  

In this issue of edible, we explore relationships between food and music. From the tapas at local flamenco shows to the dramatic cuisine of...

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