Edible Santa Fe Late Summer Issue 2014: Terroir

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Local Food, Season





Issue 33 路 Late Summer


Wed-Sat • 5-9pm • By reservation only • lospoblanos.com









The New Epicureans, by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher Chapter Three, by Sergio Salvador






Atelier Meets Abattoir, by Leah Roco


28 TERROIR By Sam Meleda

30 FOOD AND FRACKING By Katherine Mast


LIQUID ASSETS EDIBLE TRADITIONS WILD THING Committed to Conservation, by Rachel Shockley




Seeds of Sovereignty, by Willy Carleton


World Class Dining, by Rocky Durham


Shoots and Ladders, by Valerie Ashe



Campfire Gourmet, by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher and Stephanie Cameron A Culinary Hero, by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher



By Roxanne Swentzell By Amanda Rich


Terroir Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

46 ROUNDUP By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher



grist for the mill PUBLISHERS

In this issue we explore New Mexico terroir—the taste of place. Food expresses its flavors when we know its story, where it came from, and the efforts that went into getting it to our plates. To be honest, I am particular about chile. I do not love all red and green chile, and I am not a fan of heat that overpowers flavor. I like my chile just hot enough to inspire another bite, with a spice that hits in the back of the throat and just below the sinuses. I prefer it sweet and perfumey with a medium thick skin and meat; flash roasted if green or soaked whole if red. I have never sought a specific variety that meets these specifications, but I always know when I taste one. On July 16, the Veteran Farmer Project, of which I am a part, harvested its first chiles of the season to take to our first day of market at the VA Hospital. Our small urban farm in the heart of Albuquerque always runs about six degrees hotter than anywhere else in the city—sometimes I refer to it as Little Yuma. As a result, we plant our cold crops in January with little cover and have good results, and our radishes will send fireworks up your nose by June. We usually plant nightshades like eggplants, chiles, and tomatoes early, but this year our starts came late. Our chiles were donated by a number of nurseries, and often came with ambiguous labels. One such flat of chile, labeled “New Mexico Native” produced those first fruits of the season—long, straight chiles with medium thick skins and flesh. I was suspicious that these good-looking early birds would prove mild and flavorless. At market, everyone always wants to know, how hot is the chile? Often, as was the case that Wednesday, I had not tasted the chile yet, so proceeded to do so in order to answer my customer’s question. I snapped off a tip and popped it in my mouth. Flowers and honey crept up my tongue and towards the spots just behind my molars, a gentle, creeping but effective heat followed. These chiles have promise and I will save their seeds. This fall we will have to move our garden. We operate on a lot that we have always known was on borrowed time awaiting new housing for Downtown. When we find our new farm, I wonder if the seeds from my new favorite chiles will like their new soil and will respond well to cooler days and evenings. I will not have the opportunity to engage in the slow experimentation needed to fully understand all the factors that fostered this chile—place, temperature, soil, air, water. After a short two years of growing in the VFP's garden, I have begun to see some of its patterns, but it could take lifetimes to really understand this place through its cycles. Like this garden, farms everywhere are in flux and feeling the pressures of mandated change—some by cultural evolution, others by economic pressures, and all by climate change.

Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITOR Sarah Wentzel-Fisher


COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti, Willy Carleton, Kate Downer

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTOGRAPHY Stephanie Cameron, Cordelia Persen, Leah Roco, Sergio Salvador, Rick Scibelli, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

WEB AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITORS Stephanie Cameron, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

ONLINE CONTRIBUTORS Wendy Borger, Ashlie Hughes, Joseph Mora, Nissa Patterson, Amy White


ADVERTISING D. Walt Cameron, Jodi L. Vevoda

CONTACT US: 3301-R Coors Blvd NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Phone/Fax: 505-212-0791

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-212-0791 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM

In this issue we explore our complex relationships with food and place; how we, as New Mexicans, connect with the land and its nuance and limitations and how this bond, in turn, tells us about the cultivation of food and where we come from.

Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year. We distribute throughout Central and Northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually.

Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Editor

No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2014 All rights reserved.

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

PS. Join us at FUZE.SW September 12 to 14 to continue the conversation about food, place, identity, and history. Santa Fe’s only annual food conference, this event explores the folklore and the customs (past and present) that create a uniquely New Mexican gastronomy. Enjoy lots of great food, drink, and camaraderie with fellow food enthusiasts.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

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contributors VALERIE ASHE With her husband Jonathan, Valerie co-owns Thunderhead Farms in Bosque Farms, where she enjoys keeping bees and writing about food and wine. WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton, an avid vegetable grower, forager, and editor, is currently working about a dissertation on the agricultural history of New Mexico in the twentieth century. ROCKY DURHAM Native to Santa Fe, Rocky Durham has cooked professionally on five continents. Chef Durham began his culinary career washing dishes at the age of thirteen. Now he spends most of his time cultivating new chefs with a focus on community and food-source consciousness as a co-founder and instructor at the Santa Fe Culinary Academy. www.rockydurham.com KATHERINE MAST Katherine Mast is a freelance science writer with a life-long love of all things growing. She has often kept earthworms as pets, collecting them as a child during spring garden planting, and employing them now in her compost bin in Santa Fe. SAMUEL MELADA Sam Melada is a full-time RN in the UNM Hospital Neurosciences Department and is pursuing a masters degree in linguistics at UNM. He is also a food and wine writer with a strong desire to make the history, language, and culture of wine and food more accessible and enjoyable to everyone. AMANDA RICH Amanda is a poet, activist, educator, and grower working with Erda Gardens and Learning Center, Albuquerque's only Biodynamic farm. She was raised in Southern Idaho where she dug potatoes from her grandfather's garden and made jam with her grandmother's apricots. She has assisted many farms and gardens in New Mexico since arriving over a decade ago. RACHEL SHOCKLEY Rachel Shockley is spokesperson for the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish and is an avid outdoor enthusiast. She lives in Santa Fe.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

LEAH ROCO Leah Roco, passionate about issues concerning food security, community economic development, and local food systems, has worked on organic agriculture projects in New Mexico, New York, Thailand, and Myanmar. Currently, she is a graduate student and research assistant at UNM and sits on the board of directors for La Monta単ita Co-op. SERGIO SALVADOR Sergio Salvador is an Albuquerque-based professional photographer, an occasional writer, and a graphic designer, sometimes. His work has been featured in New Mexico Magazine, Su Casa, The Santa Fean, Popular Plates, Vegetarian Times, edible Santa Fe, American Way Magazine, Ebony, and other fine publications. If you have a scoop for Sergio, send it to sergio@salvadorphoto.com. ROXANNE SWENTZELL Roxanne Swentzell co-founded Flowering Tree Permaculture Institute using her self-built home at Santa Clara Pueblo as its base. She participates in her cultural pueblo dances and community. She loves to find new old ways to do things and being a grandmother, but privately wishes that she had three more of herself so that she could get more done in a day. www.roxanneswentzell.net SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER Sarah Wentzel-Fisher is the editor of edible Santa Fe. She also works at La Monta単ita Co-op, and for the National Young Farmers Coalition. In her free time she visits farms (she highly recommends this activity), experiments in her kitchen, and keeps chickens in her backyard. AMY WHITE Amy White teaches science classes for teachers at CNM and owns her own business, Orilla Consulting LLC. She has developed programs such as RiverXchange and the Arroyo Classroom Program to teach kids about ecosystems and water resources. She also writes about urban foraging, gardening, and cooking on her blog, Veggie Obsession www.veggieobsession.com. JAYE WILKINSON Jaye Wilkinson grew up in Santa Fe in the kitchen with her father, who taught her to appreciate good food. A graduate of Seattle Culinary Academy, she has graced the kitchens of many New Mexico restaurants, most recently as the executive chef of Farm & Table. Now she splits her time developing her skills as a square-foot gardener, home culinarian, and Jill of All Trades.

front of the house


By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher 路 Photos by Stephanie Cameron

From left clockwise: portobello rissoto, chefs Durham and Story with first graduating class of SFCA, and tableside Caesar salad.

Looking for an unusual dining experience in Santa Fe this August? Consider The Guesthouse. This temporal restaurant, open for a short time in April, May, June, and August, is part of the learning experience at the Santa Fe Culinary Academy (SFCA), a unique new trade school started by chefs Rocky Durham and Tanya Story, and entrepreneur Erica Peters. In spring, the menu offers delicious, classic dishes designed to please diners, but also to teach academy students the nuance of managing a fast-paced restaurant kitchen. In the fall, students will execute a self-designed restaurant concept that will change with each class. The very first cohort at SFCA, five students, completed the third rotation of their yearlong program by serving guests in the airy dining room connected to the teaching kitchen and laboratories of the 6

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

academy on the third floor of the Plaza Mercado building. At The Guesthouse in May, students prepared food for diners two nights a week, mastering everything from tableside salad preparation and presentation to timing risotto and trout so each is perfectly done and perfectly hot when plating. Many restauranteurs learn their trades through trial by fire in the kitchen or front of house. The academy affords students this type of real-world experience, but with time and coaching to reflect on process, ingredients, organization, and many other details that often differentiate a good chef from a great one. In the grand scheme of education, culinary school is a relatively new phenomenon. The Boston Cooking School, founded in 1879, was the

first formalized culinary academy in the US. Marthe Distel opened Le Cordon Bleu in 1896 in Paris, and Frances Roth and Katherine Angell began offering classes at the Culinary Institute of America to provide vocational training to returning World War II veterans in 1946. Only in the last century have restaurants and fine dining developed into big business and fine art. So it’s surprising that it has taken until now for a culinary school to emerge in a restaurant capital like Santa Fe. Compared to its peers, the SFCA offers a unique curriculum. To Durham and Story, community engagement and food source awareness are as important as exceeding industry standards in a chef ’s education. This means SFCA takes a holistic approach to cookery that is relatively novel amongst culinary schools. In addition to their time in the kitchen labs, students participate in weekly externships at local restaurants, hotels, and bakeries, as well as local non-profits and farms. One part of this unique learning experience is The Guesthouse. At The Guesthouse students learn key points of service, restaurant economics, and fundamentals of management. Unlike the restaurants of larger culinary schools, the small class size of SFCA allows students to learn about the intricacies of a restaurant, but it also allows them to proof a restaurant concept. For example, for the final rotation of the program, each student presents a restaurant concept to a panel of community experts who choose one for the entire class to test. From August 13 to 28, students will transform The Guesthouse to manifest the creative vision of one of their classmates. Whether a late night donut shop or a raw food lunch joint, the students will team up for the trials and tribulations to bring a restaurant dream to fruition. Make your reservation for a Wednesday or Thursday evening between 5:30 and 7:30pm. This first student cohort is comprised of diverse individuals from near and far. In the next four years, SFCA will pursue accreditation and the capacity to accept a variety of financial aid options to assist students in covering tuition. Currently the school offers eight substantial scholarships to subsidize the program. One of these, the Charles Dale Scholarship, is a rare offering through the James Beard Foundation to assist aspiring culinary professionals. This scholarship is not offered at any other culinary schools in the country. In August, this small class will have its work cut out for it. Even a modest restaurant concept will require tremendous effort with so few hands on deck. Eventually, Durham and Story would like to have two cohorts of twenty-four students studying in cycle, with one class starting in the spring and the other in the fall. This inaugural season promises to be one of Santa Fe’s most unusual dining experiences. If you miss the Guesthouse student restaurant, not to worry, SFCA offers pop-up dinners the first Thursday of every month. If you're epicurious, you can also try your hand in the kitchen without signing up for the full year. The academy offers regular classes to the public on everything from the basics, like farm-to-table cooking, to the more focused such as foods of classic operas. Seats fill up quickly at The Guesthouse, so reserve yours soon. 112 W San Francisco Street, Santa Fe 505-983-7445 www.santafeculinaryacademy.com

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back of the house


Story and Photos by Sergio Salvador

Joseph Wrede says he is entering the third chapter of his culinary evolution. In 2000, Food & Wine told the rest of the world what local New Mexicans already knew by making Wrede, then chef and owner of Joseph’s Table, one of their Best New Chefs of the Year. Thus began a heady first chapter that lasted almost ten years as diners near and far made their way to Taos to see what all the fuss was about, often repeatedly. 8

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

“Sometimes falling on your butt is the best way to regenerate,” says Wrede, describing the onset of his second chapter. Joseph’s Table fell victim to a combination of the national economic slowdown and Wrede’s self-described lack of direction. After the doors closed in 2009, he headed south to oversee Santa Fe kitchens in what would prove to be a brief, but important, second chapter. As menu decisions became committee affairs, it was increasingly difficult for Wrede to tap the creative spirit he had thrived on as a younger chef. On the other hand, as role-player rather than chef/ owner, he was able to reflect, from a safer distance, upon the mistakes he made in his younger days and prepare himself for his next chapter by finding a keener focus and a more solid foundation. At Joseph’s Culinary Pub, which opened in October 2013 and represents chapter three, we find an evolved chef presenting New Mexican terroir in sophisticated new ways. Wrede’s attention now centers on sourcing his ingredients locally while presenting cosmopolitan dishes. “I increasingly am buying local for the obvious ethical reasons, but also because of the recourse it affords me—I can drive less than an hour after a hailstorm and check on the conditions of the produce I’m featuring on my menu and still have time to visit the lamb farm in El Rito before the dinner rush.” Having control over these variables helps margins and eases the mind. Wrede, a notoriously fastidious chef, points out that flavors in cooking begin with the treatment of food at the end of its life, be it a head of lettuce or a chicken. Produce bought from across the country may be picked before it’s ready in order to accommodate a long trip in uncertain conditions, for example, or a chicken may be subjected to horrific slaughter with fear coming through as an unwanted flavor profile. At Joseph’s Pub, as much as possible, produce is picked within days, sometimes hours, of preparation and the animals that end up on the menu are carefully chosen by Wrede and his team based upon on-site visits to both the farms where they are raised and the facilities that process them.

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The day we spoke, Joseph kept coming back to local lamb. “I’ve always loved lamb,” he said, “but lamb from Northern New Mexico has a wonderfully distinct flavor profile because of the timothy grass that they graze on and the quality of their lives here.” Joseph’s Lamb Burger, served with local Coonridge organic feta and New Mexico green chile, arrives on a house-baked English muffin and provides the perfect example of Wrede’s evolved, third-chapter sensibility. A local staple like the green chile cheeseburger can be locally sourced from top to bottom, yet presented in a more worldly way than we’ve become accustomed to. “I try to take advantage of recognizable local tastes but draw on culinary techniques from around the world to make a meal here a unique experience. More than anything, I want people to leave here feeling better for having come.” 428 Agua Fria, Santa Fe 505-982-1272 www.josephsofsantafe.com Far left: Chef Joseph Wrede. Left: Local lamb ribs with East Indian mint pesto.





edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

Atelier Meets Abattoir NEW MEXICO LAMB RANCHING BECOMES COMMUNITY ART Story and Photos by Leah Roco

Throughout his career dealing fine art, Tim Willms used storytelling to build bonds between artists and collectors. By infusing the art with context and the artists' unique circumstances, the art he sold gained substance and palatability. Today, Willms, owner of Tallus Wind Ranch, is still a passionate storyteller, but his clients are farmers. Their works of art are heritage sheep, pigs, poultry, and cattle; his patrons are hungry New Mexicans. Over time, Willms has observed that, “Just as collectors need to know the artist's story, consumers are embracing connecting with their farmers.”

In 2007, Willms persevered for nearly a year to acquire USDA certification for the facility. Though it was rough terrain, it was the necessary path for growing the value of New Mexico lamb ranching. Before processing, ranchers and livestock must meet Willms's strict quality protocol and standards of environmental stewardship, and this is where atelier meets abattoir. Aggregating ranchers by way of a processing facility is similar to artists coming to an atelier. Whereas Willms used to market and sell prints for artists, he now buys livestock from ranchers, freeing their businesses from rigid paddocks to greener markets.

Not long after Willms purchased property in the Galisteo Basin, he decided to pursue lamb ranching. Soon his flock swelled and he was confronted by the dearth of local, small-scale meat processing facilities. Most ranchers in Willms' position shipped their herds to Colorado or California for processing and market distribution, but Willms discovered a new opportunity. “Local food sourcing is a seismic change, not a trend.” With that said, Willms mapped a route for improving the health of his local food system and economy by raising animals on the parched New Mexican soil and feeding the community. Talus Wind products can be purchased directly from the farm, at area farmers markets, Whole Foods, and even through Sysco for wholesale buyers.

Located in Torrance County, one of New Mexico's poorest, Willms struggled to find laborers who were concerned about the greater implications of playing a part in the local food system. Willms perceived that low self-esteem and complex social dynamics within these underserved communities resulted in erratic employment. To improve his odds, Willms partnered with New Mexico Workforce Solutions. As a condition for their services, new hires receive extensive skills training through the Mountainair facility, and the outcome can be seen on dinner tables across the state. A friends-and-family discount is also made available to workers in an effort to make local, sustainable meat more affordable to consumers who normally must purchase cheap, industrially processed meat. “People should know that by breaking bread with Talus Wind Ranch, marginalized communities are also being served.”

As Willms developed relationships among the ranching community, such as the Perez Cravens Ranch, Cooper Ranch, and The Enchantment Lamb Co-op, he recognized similarities between farmers and artists. “Farmers want to farm. They don’t want to deal with marketing. Just like artists don’t want to figure out how to sell their art. They just want to make it.” Stepping back into a familiar role, Willms became a collaborator as he once was with artists at an atelier in Santa Fe. He established the crucial link among ranchers within two hundred miles of his homestead: the Mountainair Heritage Meat Processing facility, located an hour and a half south of Galisteo.

Willms and his right-hand man, Chuck Hastings, recently expanded the Mountainair facility, which has the capacity to process one hundred lambs, twenty pigs, and five cows per week. With a wool and pelt project in the works, Willms continues to practice artful methods of traditional stewardship, honoring the animals, and promoting community collaboration. Whole Foods is sponsoring this series to support local producers. Look for the "I'm a Local" tags on market shelves. Visit www.ediblesantafe.com/wholefoods for producer video spotlights.

cooking fresh


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

Campfire Gourmet By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher and Stephanie Cameron Pairings by Valerie Ashe Photos by Stephanie Cameron While you may be inclined to keep it simple when it comes to cooking on your camping trip, we encourage you to be brave and try something more complicated. Cooking in the open air can be fun, liberating, and inspire a whole new set of food preparation skills. The following recipes comprise a menu for a two-day, two-night camping trip.

Day 1 LUNCH: MUFFALETTA TO GO Serves 4 – 6 This New Orleans classic sandwich is best after aging for a day under heavy weights—so it’s the perfect makeahead meal to enjoy while you are setting up camp.

Wine: Gruet Pinot Noir Beer: Santa Fe Brewing Company Pale Ale, served icy cold.

1 pound round artisan bread loaf, 3 – 4 inches tall 1 small jar olive tapenade 1/4 cup red wine vinaigrette 1/4 pound prosciutto, thinly sliced 1/4 pound sandwich pepperoni, thinly sliced 1/4 pound Genoa salami, thinly sliced 1/4 pound provolone cheese, thinly sliced 1 large ball fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced 1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 jar roasted red peppers 1 jar artichoke hearts, drained and chopped A few handfuls of fresh arugula or spinach Fresh basil leaves

DINNER: PORK AND (GREEN) BEANS Serves 4 Because your lunch was ready to go when you arrived, you can start this amazing succulent pulled pork recipe while pitching your tent. Then enjoy a short hike while it simmers in its juices. You will need hot coals over the course of cooking the pork, and a fire pit for the beans, so start your camp kitchen by lighting your fire.

Wine: Casa Abril Tempranillo Rosé Beer: Second Street Brewery Pivotal IPA, purchase directly from the brewery.

Pork 1 4-pound pork butt roast 1/4 – 1/3 cup Worcestershire sauce 3/4 cup brown sugar 1 cup apple juice 1/2 teaspoon salt

Make ahead: Cut the bread in half horizontally, and then hollow out top and bottom, making space for all the fillings. Smear olive tapenade over the bread bottom and top. Layer the ingredients with a periodic drizzle of the red wine vinaigrette: meats, provolone, onion, greens, artichoke hearts, basil leaves, roasted red peppers, fresh mozzarella. Put the top of the bread on without spilling everything, and then wrap the muffuletta tightly in plastic wrap—very, very tightly. Place in cooler and compress using the weight of your cast iron pan. Keep cool and let set for up to a full day. At the campsite: Slice and enjoy! Pork and (green) beans. On left: campfire pizza. WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


Make ahead: Place pork in large bowl. Sprinkle the roast on all sides with Worcestershire sauce. Press brown sugar into pork, coating all sides evenly. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate. At the campsite:

Wine: 2006 Casa Rondena Animante dessert wine

Lightly oil or spray Dutch oven. Carefully place pork in prepared Dutch oven. Pour apple juice around the roast, being sure not to drizzle it on crusted meat. Roast at 300° F for 3 hours with the lid on the entire time, replenishing coals hourly. Place 10 coals on bottom, 16 on top. Every hour add new coals. Resist the temptation to peak! If you are in a space that is breezy, protect your Dutch oven from the wind as it will cause the coals to cook hotter. After 3 hours, remove coals from the lid and carry the oven to a table. Let rest for about 10 minutes. Open the oven with potholders. Using two forks, pull the meat apart. Stir the salt into the juices remaining in Dutch oven. Serve pork in its delicious juice hot or at room temperature. Green Beans 1 pound green beans 1 tablespoon lemon juice, fresh squeezed Pinch of lemon zest 2 tablespoons butter, cubed Salt and pepper to taste At the campsite: Cut a 3-foot-long piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil; fold in half lengthwise and set aside. Toss together all the ingredients in a bowl. Transfer the mixture to the aluminum foil sheet, arranging in a mound in the center. Carefully fold one end of the aluminum foil over the other and pinch the sides closed, creating a neat pouch. Place the sealed aluminum foil pouch directly on a grate about 6 – 8 inches over coals (not fire) and cook for 10 minutes. Carefully open the pouch slightly to peek inside and check if the green beans are cooked through and sizzling (be careful of escaping steam). Transfer the foil pouch to a plate and unwrap it. Serve the green beans directly from the pouch.

DESSERT: S’MORES Makes 12 This classic campfire dessert can easily be made from items picked up in the grocery store aisle, but consider making the core ingredients from scratch. Buy a bar of your favorite chocolate to go with these delicious homemade graham crackers and marshmallows. Make ahead: Graham Crackers This recipe comes from the Joy of Baking and makes nearly perfect graham crackers. Consider making several batches at once and freezing what you don’t need for your next trip. 14

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S'mores with homemade graham crackers and marshmallows.

3/4 cup whole wheat flour 1/2 cup all purpose flour 1/4 cup wheat bran 1/3 cup granulated white sugar 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 7 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small chunks 1 tablespoon mild flavored honey 2 tablespoons milk 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract You basically make these the way you would a piecrust. Do this by hand or in a food processor. Combine the dry ingredients and mix well. Cut in the butter until the mixture forms coarse crumbs. Add the wet ingredients until the batter begins to clump together. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Divide the dough in half. Tape a standard 8 1/2 x 11-inch sheet of paper on the surface where you will roll out your dough; this is your template. Roll out the first half between two sheets of parchment or wax paper, aiming to make a rectangle the size of your sheet of

paper. Use a knife or metal rule to help square the edges. Place the trimmed half in the freezer to cool, and repeat these steps on the second half. Remove the first half from the freezer. Using your knife and ruler again, cut your rectangle in half the short way (making 2 pieces 5 1/2 x 8 1/2 inches), and in thirds down the length (making 6 pieces 2 3/4 x 5 1/2 inches). Leaving everything where it is on the bottom sheet of parchment, score each cracker down the middle across both length and width. Finally, using a toothpick, poke holes on each quarter-cracker in the pattern you like best. Place the first half in the freezer on a cookie sheet while you work on the second half. Bake both halves for 12 – 15 minutes until the edges turn golden brown. The longer you bake them, the crispier they will be. Remove from the oven and the baking sheet to cool on a wire rack; this step is important. If they cool on a flat surface condensation will compromise the cracker quality. Once completely cool, put in a resealable container to take camping! Marshmallows Marshmallows are surprisingly easy to make, but you do need a couple of special tools—a high-speed mixer and a candy thermometer. 4 envelopes unflavored gelatin 3 cups granulated sugar 1 1/4 cups light corn syrup 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1 1/2 cups confectioners' sugar 3/4 cup water for gelatin plus 3/4 cup for sugar mixture Brush a 9 x 13-inch baking pan with vegetable oil, then sprinkle liberally with powdered sugar, coating the bottom and all sides. Combine 3/4 cup cold water and gelatin in the bowl of an electric mixer. Set aside. Combine granulated sugar, corn syrup, salt, and 3/4 cup water into a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Once the sugar has dissolved, cook, without stirring, until mixture registers 238° F on a candy thermometer, about 9 minutes. Stirring while dissolving the sugar will reduce the risk of a boil-over, but keep a close eye and stir if necessary to prevent spills. Attach bowl with gelatin to mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. With mixer on low speed, beat hot syrup into gelatin mixture. Gradually raise speed to high; beat until mixture is white and stiff, about 12 minutes, and then add in vanilla. Using a spatula, transfer the mixture to prepared baking dish. Sprinkle the top with more powdered sugar. Using your fingers, massage the surface to create a relatively flat surface on top of the mixture. Use as much powdered sugar as you need to prevent



the sticky fluff from sticking to the pan or your hands. Set aside, uncovered, until firm, about 3 hours. Spread a large sheet of parchment onto a clean surface. Invert the pan onto the parchment to remove the marshmallow. Using a sharp knife and extra powdered sugar if needed, cut the block into marshmallow-sized cubes. Toss in a bowl with more powdered sugar to coat all sides, dust off the excess, and then store in a resealable container. At the campsite: The secrets to great s’mores are room temperature chocolate and low coals for roasting marshmallows. On a plate, lay out graham crackers and chocolate so they are ready to be sandwiched. Roast 2 marshmallows on skewers over coals slowly, to ensure the marshmallow is hot all the way through—it should almost fall off the skewer. Place the hot marshmallow on the chocolate half of the graham cracker, let set for about 15 seconds to let the chocolate begin to melt, then sandwich and enjoy!

Day 2 BREAKFAST: SKILLET BREAKFAST TACOS AND FIRE-COOKED TORTILLAS Serves 4 – 6 Now it’s time to put that leftover pork to use. This is a good teamwork activity with one person in charge of the filling and one in charge of the tortillas. Make it a heartier breakfast by adding a fried egg. Tacos 6 ounces leftover pulled pork 2 potatoes, diced 1 red bell pepper, sliced 1 orange bell pepper, sliced 8 ounces Cotija cheese, crumbled Salsa Tortillas 2 cups masa harina 1 1/2 – 2 cups water Make ahead: Measure your masa harina into a resealable container to save space. Pre-chop your peppers. Make your favorite salsa of choice.

Skillet breakfast tacos.

Add a tablespoon of water to your skillet to avoid sticking and add potatoes and cook for about 10 minutes until tender. Add bell pepper slices, cooking until soft. Add pulled pork and heat through, about 2 minutes. Top with crumbled Cotija cheese and set aside, keeping warm. Fill tortillas with meat mixture and salsa as desired.

At the campsite: In a bowl, mix the masa harina and slowly add enough water to make dough that holds together but is not sticky. Roll the dough into small balls the size of ping-pong balls. Plastic wrap or wax paper a cutting board, place a ball of dough on top, cover with another sheet of plastic wrap or waxed paper, then squash the dough with the bottom of a heavy skillet, pressing as hard as you can. If you like a thinner tortilla, use a bottle or can from your cooler as a rolling pin. Peel from the paper and place onto a hot grate over coals, flipping regularly until done, 2 – 3 minutes. Wrap in foil to keep warm.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

LUNCH: KEEP IT SIMPLE Bring a few items that you can carry with you on a hike or other adventure, such as artisan bread, nuts, dried or fresh fruit, olives, cheese, or cured meats. Plan around the possibility of pleasant surprises such as local farmers markets or farm stands, country bakeries, dairies, foraged berries, or fresh-caught trout.

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Open for lunch and dinner in two locations • 709 Don Cubero Alley in Santa Fe • 1828 Central Ave SW in Albuquerque WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


DINNER: CAMPFIRE PIZZA Serves 4 – 6 Get as creative as you like with the Wine: ingredients in this recipe. Below is Gruet Rosé our take with prosciutto and mushSparkling Wine rooms. Many of your favorite pizza Beer: places will sell uncooked dough, or Marble Brewery find the simple recipe to make your Amber Ale own on our website. You will also need to be able to adjust the grate over your fire for this recipe. If you don’t have an adjustable grate, move coals to one side of the fire so you have a hot side and a medium side. 2 pizza dough balls (see recipe online) 4 ounces prosciutto, thinly sliced 8 ounces mixed mushrooms, cleaned and sliced 3 garlic cloves 8 ounces fresh mozzarella, torn in pieces 1 handful basil 3 sprigs of thyme Olive oil for sautéing and drizzling Salt and pepper, to taste Divide the pizza dough into four balls. On a cutting board, press and stretch the dough into circles approximately 9 inches in diameter. Allow the dough to rest while preparing the toppings. Place an iron skillet on a hot grate over direct heat or on high flame on a camp stove. When hot, drizzle in a little olive oil and fry the prosciutto pieces until crisp. Remove to a plate and set aside. Add another splash of olive oil to skillet and toss in the mushrooms and garlic. Sauté until the mushrooms begin to caramelize. Season with salt and pepper, then remove from the heat and set aside. Over a pit fire, place grate about 6 inches above your coals. Place the pizza crust directly on the well-heated grate. Let cook until golden on the bottom, and then use a spatula to flip over. Move your grate to about 12 inches above the coals. Scatter the mushrooms, cheese and prosciutto on top; add the basil and thyme, drizzle with a little olive oil. Cover with an inverted skillet. When the cheese is melted and the crust is cooked through, remove the pizza to the cutting board and cut into slices. Repeat.

DESSERT: DUTCH OVEN FRUIT COBBLER Serves 6 – 8 This is the perfect recipe for all that preserved fruit in your pantry. You can use pears, cherries, or peaches. 2 cups unbleached flour 1 cup brown sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

Wine: Wines of the San Juan Girls are Meaner White Table Wine

Dutch oven fruit cobbler.

1/4 teaspoon of salt 1 1/4 cup milk 1 egg, beaten 1 tablespoon butter 2 15-ounce jars of fruit drained but save the juice 1 1/2 cups juice from fruit Make ahead: Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl and store in a resealable container. At the campsite: For ease with cleanup, line your oven with parchment paper. Preheat the Dutch oven over 12 hot coals. In a bowl combine milk and eggs with the dry ingredients until moistened. Melt the butter in the Dutch oven. Gently pour in the fruit and juice. Be careful to avoid splattering. Add a light coating of cinnamon and sugar over the fruit. Evenly pour the batter over the fruit. Put the lid on and place 16 coals on top of it. Every 15 minutes, rotate the entire oven about 1/4-turn over the coals, and the lid (without lifting it) about 1/4-turn in the opposite direction. Bake for about 50 minutes, or until the center of the cake is springy to touch. A thick syrupy ring will have formed on the edges from the juices (that is the best part). Don't let it fool you into over cooking the cobbler.

Heading home BREAKFAST: NO-COOK PORRIDGE One serving size Keep breakfast simple on the last day to make breaking down camp easy. Make it in individual canning jars for a perfect serving size and an easy grab-and-go breakfast straight from the cooler. Ingredients below make one serving in a half-pint jar. 1/4 cup uncooked rolled oats 1/3 cup milk 1/4 cup Greek yogurt 1 1/2 teaspoons chia seeds 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 tablespoon raspberry jam, preserves, or spread 1/4 to 1/3 cup raspberries, halved Make ahead: You can make this entire recipe ahead at home or you can make the night before eating at your campsite and let it do its magic in the cooler overnight. In a half-pint jar, add oats, milk, yogurt, chia seeds, vanilla, and raspberry jam. Put lid on jar and shake until well combined. Remove lid, add raspberries and stir until mixed throughout. Return lid to jar and refrigerate overnight or as long as 2 – 3 days. Eat chilled.



Pop-up Pantry Tuesdays + Thursdays 10-2


1703 Lena Street Santa Fe




GOURMET CAMPFIRE COOKING KIT AND MUST-HAVE TOOLS If you are going to be a campfire gourmet, it’s important to have a well stocked outdoor kitchen. • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Judy Chicago, The Return of the Butterfly, from A Retrospective in a Box, 2012. Lithograph. Collection of the New Mexico Museum of Art, museum purchase, 2013.


Large-scale projects and small-scale personal works in an impressive array of media by artist, author and educator Judy Chicago. This exhibition focuses on works produced in the last three decades while the artist has been living and working in New Mexico.

107 W. PALACE AVE | ON THE PLAZA IN SANTA FE | 505.476.5072



edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

• • • • • • • •

Dutch oven, large lid, and lid lifter Cast-iron skillet Tongs and a spatula Adjustable metal grate and grate stand Microplane zester (for grating cheese, garlic, and citrus zest) Citrus squeezer A good knife and two large cutting boards Collapsible colander Collapsible mixing bowl Spices, salt, pepper, and olive oil Half-pint canning jars (these double as wine glasses, vinaigrette shakers, and measuring cups, half-pint equals 1 cup) Big metal mugs that work for coffee, soup, and cereal bowls A plastic tub with a snap-on lid (store dirty dishes after dinner, secure from critters, and worry about dishwashing in the light of day) Heavy-duty, gallon-size, resealable plastic bags Paper towels Foil, plastic wrap, and parchment paper Unbreakable dishes and real cutlery Heavy-duty, rubber, fireproof oven mitt Cook-top with one or two burners Charcoal chimney starter Charcoal

Luna Center - Santa Fe's Newest Destination! Restaurant space now available at the Luna Center! Call 505-490-6391 for more info.

505-983-0647 www.cassiesboutiquesantafe.com Fitness attire for women and men. Many athletic brands! Affordable and locally owned!

505-986-0600 www.heardrobins.com Heard Robins Cloud LLP Personal Injury Attorneys

505-780-5073 www.talinmarket.com New Mexico's largest international food grocer. Authentic, high quality ingredients from around the world.

505-820-3338 www.playmodernkids.com Modern goods for modern kids and babies. Clothing, toys, gifts, and more.

505-454-6007 www.oldwood.us Great Floors/Great Design/ Great Forestry

505-603-6807 olivegrovesfnm@yahoo.com Olive Grove carries gourmet & rare foods from around the world.

505-982-9692 www.ohoriscoffee.com The original source for small-batch locally roasted specialty coffee.

505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe

505-243-2739 www.marblebrewery.com Marble Brewery Santa Fe Tap Room: Serving award winning beer brewed in downtown Albuquerque.

Downtown Near the Railyard • Parking at Cerrillos & Manhattan • 505-490-6391 • www.lunasantafe.com

at the chef's table

Cristian Pontiggia, Osteria d'Assisi, Executive Chef. 22

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A Culinary Hero By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher Photos by Rick Scibelli If someone decided to write a comic book about super hero chefs, it would probably be set in Santa Fe. The City Different is blessed with both an amazing array of exceptional restaurants, and a cadre of young and attractive, not to mention generous chefs—a sort of culinary all-star team. Among the ranks of these hunger-fighting heroes is Cristian Pontiggia, executive chef of Osteria d’Assisi, a soft-spoken but determined champion with a big heart, goofy smile, and a keen palate for Italian wine. Like many New Mexicans, he isn’t from New Mexico and found himself here by happenstance on a short visit that turned a vacation site into home.

Pan Asian Cuisine Open Tues thru Sat @ 5:30 for dinner only 1494 Cerrillos Rd, Santa Fe, NM Reservations 505-983-1411

Pontiggia started his career at the tender age of fourteen in kitchens near Lake Cuomo in the Lombardi region of Italy. His father dreamed his son would become a painter or sculptor, and demanded he attend art school. Pontiggia, from an early age, knew his creativity flourished over a hot stove rather than a canvas, so decided to go it alone without the support of his family. He worked his way through culinary school and excelled in his craft, cooking in many prestigious hotels and restaurants from Bellagio, Bormio, Livegnio and Aprica, to Milano. Several American movie stars (who shall remain nameless) recruited Pontiggia to southern California to work as a private chef. In need of a change of pace, and wanting to help a friend, he accepted a seasonal position in Taos at Stakeout. It was a summer of love and opportunity: Pontiggia found himself head over heals for his soon-to-be wife and with an offer of an executive chef position in Santa Fe at Osteria d’Assisi. In his role as head chef, he prides himself on combining unique fresh local ingredients with delicacies, like cheese and cured meats, which can only be imported from his homeland. At Osteria, recognized this year by Open Table as New Mexico's best Italian restaurant, Pontiggia found his culinary home, and is considered family by chef and owner Lino Pertusini. The depth and breadth of Pontiggia’s culinary experiences, along with his deep love for traditional Italian cuisine, brought him to Santa Fe, but the capital’s notorious and magical sense of community have kept him here. In his capacity as culinary hero, he loves attending the farmers market, teaching kids and families through various Cooking With Kids activities, and volunteering for annual charity events like Souper Bowl. In the coming year, Pontiggia, with the blessing of Pertusini, will open his own establishment with a focus on traditional northern Italian cuisine. 58 S Federal, Santa Fe 505-986-5858 www.osteriadassisi.com Matt Yohalem, Il Piatto WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


liquid assets

Shoots and Ladders RISING STARS ON THE NEW MEXICO WINE SCENE By Valerie Ashe Photos by Rick Scibelli

Many states in the Union can boast a superstar wine or two, but often each state also has lesser-known wines that emerge like tender new shoots on a grapevine, climbing to the top of local restaurant wine lists and grocery store shelves. Here are a few New Mexico wines that are the talk of the town, showcasing the best of New Mexico’s terroir—characteristics of the state’s unique geography, soil, climate, and winemaker finesse that show through in a wine’s scent and flavor.

CAMINO REAL WINERY At dawn, the three crosses atop Tomé Hill—an annual destination for thousands of Christian pilgrims each Easter—cast their shadows on a modest house that serves as both home and winery to Jon and Dolores Chavez. Jon Chavez has made wine for about ten years, but Camino Real Winery has been in operation for less than two years. Chavez sources all of his wine grapes from the Middle Rio Grande Valley, no farther north than Albuquerque’s South Valley, and no far24

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ther south than Belén. The sandy, alluvial clay soils and mild climate along the river create a hospitable home for wine grapes. Heat and elevation bring out wine characteristics different from the same varieties grown in their native European vineyards. 2013 Chambourcin Camino Real chambourcin (blended with twenty-five percent merlot) has won numerous medals in local and national wine competitions. A relatively new hybrid grape, chambourcin hails from France,

where, in 1963, a French biochemist known for other successful hybrid wine grapes in Germany and France introduced it. The flesh of the grape is purple like the skin, giving chambourcin wines rich, deep color and intense blackberry fruit flavor. The firm tannins, balanced acid, and fruit in the Camino Real 2014 chambourcin indicate that it would likely age well in two to three years, but when opened immediately, it pairs elegantly with rich gamey meats such as Valle Caldera elk or New Mexico grassfed lamb. 2013 Riesling Camino Real wines are not yet available for sale at retail outlets; you have to buy them directly from the winery by phone, email, or by visiting the winery. The trip is worth the leisurely Saturday afternoon drive south along Highway 47, cruising by lush, open fields of alfalfa surrounded by centenarian cottonwood trees, not to mention the vineyard. In the tasting room, you can sample from a long menu of the Camino Real wines, including the 2013 riesling, which at first smells slightly rubbery (often referred to as petrol, which is characteristic of the riesling grape) then opens up to aromas of ripe honeydew melon and fresh baked biscuits. The wine has a mouthwatering acidity and balanced sweetness that doesn’t overwhelm the palate. The riesling would make great company for spicy New Mexican foods such as calabacitas loaded with green chile and fresh local goat cheese, or more exotic fare such as a Thai coconut curry soup. 13 Tome Hill, Los Lunas 505-865-7903 jpchavezwine@hotmail.com

WINES OF THE SAN JUAN Girls Are Meaner White Table Wine Gewürztraminer is a grape most known for its aromatic, flavorful white wines from the Alsace region of France, just on the border of Germany. The northern Italian traminer grape is thought to be its parent, which by the nineteenth century had been crossed with another grape variety to create a highly scented offshoot that took on the German prefix gewürz, meaning spiced or aromatic. Because this varietal is so foreign to American pronunciation, Wines of the San Juan had a little fun with their one hundred percent gewürztraminer label, but the wine itself is a serious effort with a difficult grape. Gewürztraminer, typically a low-yielding grape, is susceptible to frost and requires mild daytime and nighttime temperatures during its growing season—two difficult challenges for the New Mexico winemaker. Without viticultural intervention, New Mexico’s abundant heat and sunshine normally produce high sugar concentration in wine grapes, producing sweeter wines than varietals from their native lands, but this gewürztraminer is not as sweet as others produced in the state. A refreshing, fragrant wine, it’s a nice alternative to chardonnay or riesling on a hot summer day. One of the winery’s most popular wines, Girls Are Meaner, is described on their website as, “a gypsy, semi-sweet” wine that “weaves a magical spell straight from the vine to the glass.” It’s a fitting description, as taking one whiff of the wine takes me to a dream sequence

of Hansel and Gretel walking through a surreal German forest, indulging in sweet ripe peaches, exotic lychee fruit, and picking honeysuckle flowers and rose petals on their way to Grandma’s house. The serious part comes through in the strong, clean mineral aroma that also shows on the palate. High acidity and balanced sweetness makes this a perfect wine to pair with strong cheeses such as Gorgonzola, or a creamy New Mexican green chile Alfredo sauce over pesto pasta. Indulge a sweet tooth by serving it with a homemade peach cobbler or clafoutis for dessert. 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon There are probably many reasons why this wine earned the 2014 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition silver medal, starting with the concentrated aromas of blackberry and floral violet, and more subtle suggestions of crisp green bell pepper and fresh-cut cedar. Then once you taste the ripe, dark berry flavors that finish with solid tannins and juicy acidity, you know it’s a wine worth savoring and even storing for a few years. But aromas and flavors don’t just exist on their own—achieving this kind of performance requires great care in vineyard cultivation and winemaking. While the Wines of the San Juan winery is situated at an elevation of 5,600 feet in the San Juan River Valley, offering a nurturing climate for its small vineyard plantings of baco noir and other experimental grapes, the winery sources its cabernet sauvignon grapes from Deming—the center of the state’s vineyard cultivation. Like the right bank of the Dordogne River in Bordeaux, native home to the wine-world’s five noble grapes, including cabernet sauvignon, Deming has rich clay soils mixed with alluvial sand but lacks the gravel and mild Atlantic coastal temperatures that define much of the famous French wine region. Warm days and cool nights during the growing season promote balanced sweetness in the grapes, but higher relative warmth, altitude, and aridity in New Mexico produce a sweeter Bordeaux-style wine than its home recipe. This drinkable, fruit-forward cabernet sauvignon would pair well with a range of dishes, from red-chile-rubbed roasted pork loin and broiled duck breast with orange-chipotle sauce, to marinated portobello mushroom steaks and rotisserie chicken. The wine is not sweet, but its fruit character makes a good introduction to dry red wines for those who prefer sweeter wines. At the same time, it is sophisticated enough to please serious dry red wine drinkers who want to experience the unique soil, sun, and sand of New Mexico’s terroir. 233 Highway 511, Blanco 505-632-0879 www.winesofthesanjuan.com

MILAGRO VINEYARDS 2010 Chardonnay Milagro Vineyards is a small production winery averaging twelve hundred cases a year in the hamlet of Corrales. Milagro makes all of its wines on-site, from growing the vines to aging wine in barrels. Winemaker Rick Hobson takes pride in being an old-world-style winery, barrel-aging all of his wines and avoiding malolactic fermen-



tation in his white wines, a process that mellows tart, acidic components in wines and can impart rich, buttery flavors to white wines such as chardonnay. Fortunately for New Mexico, Hobson takes great care to bring a little bit of France to the Land of Enchantment through his careful vineyard and winemaking practices. During blind tastings, experts around the country often think Milagro wines are from France, where chardonnays from their native Burgundy wine region are delicate, acidic (essential for accompanying food), and mineral-driven. Milagro’s 2010 chardonnay is all of these things, with crisp mineral notes—a comforting earthy aroma that is a cross between buttered toast, salty ocean air, and wet limestone—and flavors of fresh picked lemons and juicy Bartlett pears. In researching this article, I asked Hobson to pick his favorite wine from his portfolio. He chuckled and said his typical answer to that question is, “That’s like me asking you to choose your favorite child.” We settled on profiling the 2010 chardonnay because, at this writing, it is among his most popular white wines, winning the bronze medal at the 2013 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Hobson released the 2011 chardonnay in mid-June, which was barrel-fermented in French oak on its lees and aged for more than a year in the bottle. Hobson knows New Mexico land and climate very well, having been raised on a Southern New Mexico farm and formerly a water systems consultant to agricultural operations around the state. He applies that knowledge to his vineyard to produce grapes with characteristics as close to their place of origin as possible without compromising the natural character of New Mexico soils and climate. Hobson says, "I'm interested in what New Mexico can do without cutting any corners and just doing all the things in the vineyard that need to be done. It's about honoring the place where the grapes are grown. Let the fruit show whatever it's going to show." Due to its high acidity and solid structure, the 2010 chardonnay is a rare local white wine you could hold for a few years and the wine would still stand up strong. Enjoy it now or then with shellfish such as oysters, crawfish, or shrimp; an earthy mushroom soup; or light hard cheeses such as manchego and Gruyère. 985 West Ella, Corrales 505-898-3998 www.milagrowine.com

THE NEW MEXICO WINE GROWERS ASSOCIATION The New Mexico Wine Growers Association (NMWGA) is a nonprofit organization established in 1991 that supports and promotes the New Mexico wine industry—over fifty wineries and tasting rooms around the state. In addition hosting and attending numerous wine festivals throughout the year to promote New Mexico wines, the NMWGA also advocates for wine growers in state policy, and supports agriculture and tourism in New Mexico by championing wine growers in print and online. NEW MEXICO WINE FESTIVALS • Harvest Wine Festival, August 30 – September 1, 2014 • Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, September 24 – 28, 2014 • Tastes of the Season, November 2014 • Taos Winter Wine Festival, January 2015 • New Mexico Wine and Vine Conference, March 2015 • Albuquerque Wine Festival, May 2015 • Southern New Mexico Wine Festival, May 2015 • New Mexico's Month of Wine, June 2015 • Santa Fe Wine Festival, July 2015 Travel New Mexico Wine Trails using the NMWGA App. Find member wineries, descriptions, photos, contact information, websites, and directions. Easily share your wine tasting experience on social media. Use the NM Wine Passport Program to check in at wineries you visit to earn prizes, including a grand prize for a New Mexico weekend getaway. www.nmwine.com

Photo on page 24: David Arnold of Wines of the San Juan. Below: Wines of the San Juan winery.




THE TASTE OF PLACE IN NEW MEXICO By Sam Meleda · Photo by Stephanie Cameron

Terroir evokes a multitude of connotations and opinions in the world of wine, but what does it really mean, and how might it apply to food? In her Oxford Companion to Wine, the great wine educator Jancis Robinson argues, “No precise English equivalent exists for this quintessentially French term and concept.” Hugh Johnson, the bestselling wine writer, wrote in his foreword to geologist James Wilson’s Terroir: The Role of Geology, Climate and Culture in the Making of French Wines, “properly understood, it means the whole ecology of the vineyard: every aspect of its surroundings from bedrock to late frosts to Autumn mists, not excluding the way the vineyard is tended, nor even the soul of the vigneron.” While the word is somewhat illusory and intangible, it points to something very real and powerful in the current marketplace of local and artisanal foods: how we buy them, how we experi28

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ence them in restaurants or the privacy of our own dining rooms, and how our New Mexico farmers grow ingredients or craft them into unique edibles. In 2011, while attending the Taos Winter Wine Fest, I stepped into an elevator with some folks from Santa Fe’s own Fiasco Fine Wines and world-renowned winemaker, Josh Jensen, founder of Calera Wineries in Mount Harlan, California. “So what’s all this talk about red and green chile?” Jensen asked. One of the owners of Fiasco replied, “New Mexico is like the Burgundy of chile.” Little did I know then that this was the perfect response to sum up the nature of the Land of Enchantment’s unique position in the world as a chile-growing region. (As it turns out, Jensen had worked in Burgundy in the early 1970s and returned to California in search of limestone soils in which to

cultivate his own Burgundy grapes: pinot noir, aligoté, and viognier.) It was an analogy I had used previously to define terroir to wine novices here in New Mexico, explaining place-as-taste, but to have it reinforced in such a profound yet nonchalant way has made me refine my thoughts over the years. The wines of Burgundy are prized because of the very specific places they grow and how they reflect all the elements of those places. Incredible Chablis does not need to have “chardonnay” on the label, because that would be redundant; of course it’s chardonnay, but it’s chardonnay grown and vinified in the distinct region of Chablis, and this is reflected in the aromas and flavors of the wine. The wine enthusiasts of the world know that an incredible red Nuits-SaintGeorge is incredible not because it is made from pinot noir, but because of its geographic

origin in the communes of Nuits-SaintGeorge in the Côtes de Nuits subregion of Burgundy. These wines reflect the history, climate, geography, and yes, “the soul of the winemaker.” Here in New Mexico, we may not have a very French mindset about the nature of our grapes, but there is one thing we prize: our chile. We even spell it our own way. We begin eating it as children and we never stop. People who move here may resist it at first, finding it too spicy, but nearly every transplant I know has adapted and assimilated red and green chile into the kitchen staples. Chile is part of who we are as New Mexicans. Just as the pinot noir in NuitsSaint-George tastes nothing like pinot noir grown anywhere else in the world, the red chile grown in Chimayó has flavors and aromas you can’t find anywhere else on Earth. A recipe for New Mexico red chile marinated pork published a few years ago in America’s Test Kitchen included (among other things) raisins simmered in strong coffee in an attempt to help a home cook anywhere else in the US using generic powdered red chile from who-knows-where to replicate the unique flavor of New Mexico. The altitude, the soil, the high desert dryness, and certainly the inherent nature of the Capsicum annuum Chimayó chile varietal cannot be recreated with any other ingredients. These elements are the terroir of Northern New Mexico; they are the essence of place-as-taste. One can take seeds from Chimayó and grow them in Cincinnati, but it will never taste the same. Not unlike the discourse surrounding Champagne, the discourse of modern food culture is awash with terms such as locally grown, hand-crafted, and artisanal. Another lesson can be learned from the French when it comes to the culinary treasures of New Mexico. Like our local chile growers in Hatch and Chimayó in 2014, the grape growers in Champagne, France, at the turn of the twentieth century, faced drought and pestilence in the form of the phylloxera epidemic. Grape production was down by thousands of acres and this led to well-

founded rumors spreading about winemakers bringing grapes into the Champagne region from elsewhere, yet still labeling their wine as true Champagne. Here in New Mexico, our chile production has been significantly reduced by drought and other problems. According to the New Mexico Chile Association, 34,500 acres were harvested in 1992; only 9,600 were harvested in 2012. This has led to our own well-founded rumors that chile being sold as “NM Grown” is coming from elsewhere (even as far as China), threatening the cultural and culinary heritage of which we deserve to be so proud, compromising what makes New Mexico-grown chile distinctly New Mexican. While the Champagne growers resorted to riots in 1911, intercepting shipments of foreign grapes, dumping them into the Marne River, and even burning the city of Aÿ almost to the ground, this need not happen here. Our local chile growers are not standing idly by. The Chimayó Chile Project began in 2003 to revitalize chile production in the northern part of the state. In 2009 the United States Patent and Trademark Office granted registration for the trademark “Chimayó” to Chimayó Chile Farmers Inc. Groups like Save NM Seeds and the Native Hispanic Institute work to preserve the integrity of New Mexico chile by protecting landrace seed varieties and the traditions that surround annual seed exchanges. This protects the essence of what terroir means to New Mexicans. While many citizens of the Land of Enchantment may not care for wine, or even the French, they still will likely want cheese and green chile on their fries once in a while. Understanding that we have a gift in this state for growing chile with a flavor like no other chile on Earth, we can protect a heritage that dates back to before the presence of Europeans in New Mexico. Today, red and green chile can be found in any number of local New Mexico products, from wine to candy to beef jerky. No matter how it is used, our chile represents who we are and captures where we live and breathe. It is the essence of terroir in New Mexico, and we can taste the difference. WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


Food and Fracking


In north central New Mexico, fifty miles northeast from Santa Fe as the crow flies, Mora County temperatures still drop low enough in June that La Sierra Farm must keep its rows of tomatoes and basil under cloth and young starts in the warm air of greenhouses. Several goats graze in a field bordered by the dirt driveway that edges the thirty-acre property. In the twelve years they have lived there, Marianna Lands and Nicholas Morrow have nurtured a small, thriving farm, growing food for themselves with plenty to put up for the winter. Though they didn’t start out intending to sell their produce, Lands and Morrow teamed up with thirty-five farmers in Los de Mora Local Growers’ Cooperative, which started in 2012. Together, the growers supply grocery stores and restaurants in Northern New Mexico’s larger towns with fresh, organic produce. They also bring a steady stream of revenue into a county trying to bolster economic alternatives to energy production. Mora County spans nearly two thousand square miles and is home to fewer than five thousand people. County government offices operate from portable buildings, and the county’s courthouse construction has been stalled due to funding concerns. “We’re not money rich,


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but we’re asset rich,” says John Olivas, former county commissioner. Some communities looking for an economic boost turn to assets such as oil and gas, but Mora County has taken a strong stance against it. Tacked to signposts and hung from buildings around the county, red and white signs displaying an iconic cow head stare down onlookers. The signs urge farming, ranching, and water rather than fracking, a sentiment shared by many in the valley. They also represent the tough choices residents face about long term, self-initiated economic development, or more immediate financial gratification associated with oil and gas revenues. Last April, after several years of drafting a bill, the county became the first in the country to pass a drilling ban. It’s a bill that put the county in the national spotlight, and that is currently facing legal scrutiny in two federal lawsuits. The Mora County Community Water Rights and Local Self-Government Ordinance asserts the rights of the community to clean land and water over corporate interests, including fracking. A 2008 report from the New Mexico Bureau of Geology and Mineral Resources showed “considerable potential” for natural gas in some

of the rock formations underlying the Mora County landscape. With the rise in hydraulic fracturing technology, or fracking, the county became concerned that they might soon find their landscape dotted with drilling wells. The newer process of horizontal drilling, plus a high-pressure injection of millions of gallons of water and an undisclosed mixture of chemicals, extracts fuel from hard-to-reach places. Though touted as a safe technology, many in Mora County aren’t interested in taking any risks with their water supply, and are concerned with the air pollution, landscape degradation, and influx of outside workers that other New Mexico drilling communities like Carlsbad and Farmington have seen. To some, prohibiting a potential revenue stream seems a foolish decision for a poor community to make. And the future of the bill is uncertain—Olivas, the bill’s champion, lost his re-election bid in June and court dates for the lawsuits are only now being set—but proponents of the bill are continuing to focus on building other economic opportunities. One great asset to people in Mora County is access to land. The county’s home ownership rate is almost twenty percent higher than the state average, and many of those homes lie on parcels of irrigable land. A robust acequia system diverts water from the streams flowing from the Pecos Mountains onto these parcels. Though many of those properties once boasted thriving farms—years ago Mora County was considered the breadbasket of New Mexico— few residents survive through agriculture alone these days. Most commute to Las Vegas or farther for jobs in education, government, and healthcare. “Mora is making a concerted effort to revitalize agriculture as a source of income for local people,” says Lands. As many of the commuting workers retire, they are looking for ways to earn income through their land, but there is a learning curve to farming. While there are people who still remember stories of a time when tobacco, sugar, and salt were the only dry goods Mora residents had to travel to buy, a lot of the practical knowledge has been lost, Morrow says. “It’s hard to make the transition from city jobs to living on the land. It’s hard to turn a farm into a profit.” But those with more knowledge are helping new farmers get established. Lands sits on the board of the cooperative and is an outspoken leader as well as a trove of knowledge for the group’s beginning farmers. “Marianna and Nick are some of the best experts in our co-op,” says Veronica Serna, board secretary. They and other experienced farmers teach new learners about various aspects of farming and production, from hoop house construction and composting to pickling vegetables. Co-op members also help each other with labor, pitching in with a harvest or raising a new greenhouse. Lands says the co-op is modeled after the Mondragon System, a cooperative structure developed in Spain’s post-Civil-War Basque region. Mora’s early Spanish settlers also had a thriving cooperative, barter-based society that faded with the arrival of Fort Union and its currency-based economy. Lands says the blossoming of several economic associations and cooperatives in the past few years has “grown out of a desire to revitalize the culture and history here, which really is a community cooperative working together…it’s reviving an old tradition of families and neighbors

working together. But it had to morph into something that was more appropriate to [today’s] monetary and legal times.” In addition to sharing knowledge about farming practices, co-op members share other business expertise. “We pool all our skills, in marketing, public relations, and graphic design,” says Serna. “We are making a very strong co-op so everyone can benefit from it.” Serna, one of the members with access to family-owned land, has used her expertise to help new farm startups meet regulatory requirements, incorporating, obtaining business licenses, and even getting organic certification. Bolstering farming within the community is one way to make healthy food available nearby—she has overheard Angel Fire residents on a shopping trip in Las Vegas discuss buying co-op-produced eggs in Mora instead of the usual grocery store variety—and to support the economy. To be economically viable, the co-operative works with grocers and restaurant owners in Mora, Las Vegas, and Taos to establish which plants need to be grown and when. Lettuce greens are in hot demand, but only certain varieties. Markets won’t accept zucchini that have grown too large or tomatoes picked too ripe. Each farming member works to help fulfill the market requests, and when produce is ready to harvest, the farmers bring their yield to a central spot for shipping. In addition to fresh produce and eggs, the co-op is hoping to add several value-added products in the coming years. Livestock growers want to add beef jerky and sausage to their offerings, and other members are exploring jellies and jams, salsas and sprouts. Many of those ideas are still forming, though, as members apply for the necessary certifications and grow to meet the demands of the market. Right now, the market demand for produce alone is higher than the cooperative can fill. “We need more growers,” says Morrow, and yet, there is a waiting list for new members. The co-op is still in its infancy, just getting its feet securely beneath itself. In the first year, it grew from a single membership category to three, allowing non-producers to participate as supporters and consumers. And the members are taking the good advice given them at the start: grow slowly. Taking on and training new members in small cohorts and committing to production quotas they can realistically meet will make for a successful, sustainable organization, they hope, even if it means a current bottleneck for new members and market demand. Lands knows she is on the more revolutionary side among her coop peers, and Morrow refers to himself as an old hippie. The pair has big dreams for their farm and for the co-op, and for fostering a shift to more food and economic sovereignty in the county. “The best way to make real change is to get your hands in some dirt,” says Morrow. “Working with the land is the most revolutionary thing we can do right now.” Mora County’s prohibition of oil and gas production reflects the community’s desire to protect its natural resources. While some call the ordinance foolhardy, the economic foundation that the growers’ cooperative is helping to build is one which members hope will continue to sustain the community—and the land—for years to come.



What Was Your Original Diet? THE PUEBLO FOOD EXPERIENCE WITH THE FLOWERING TREE PERMACULTURE INSTITUTE By Roxanne Swentzell Photos by Stephanie Cameron

This is a story about understanding permaculture as more than a philosophy about how to design and grow a garden. This is a story about working with nature in our diets, through observation, and understanding the systems that we are a part of, both as gardeners and as eaters. Flowering Tree Permaculture Institute is a non-profit organization working with the concepts of permaculture. Along with several dear friends, I founded the Institute in 1987 at Santa Clara Pueblo. I began the project by building a home and by teaching classes on different techniques and methods of healthy lifestyles. In 2012, Flowering Tree put together a project called the Pueblo Food Experience to address health issues and sustain cultural integrity among our community and Native communities like ours. Groups of volunteers and I agreed to eat only native foods for a period of three months. We monitored our health conditions and supported each other in the process by sharing what we learned from changing our diet in this way. In addition, we 32

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had blood tests conducted before and after to measure changes in key health indicators, such as cholesterol and blood sugar levels. The purpose was to eat only original food from our native area. For us at Santa Clara, this meant we ate foods that were available to us before the arrival of the Spanish five hundred years ago. This model can be used for every culture…we all come from somewhere. For instance, Northwest Coast Natives would eat different foods than those of us in the Southwest. Europeans ate differently than they do now. What was your original diet? What were the animals and plants that your culture originally gathered and ate in your ancestral home? Our before and after blood tests showed amazing results. Eating our original diet corrected many common health issues. One participant said that maybe it shouldn't be called a diet because people think diets are all about losing weight. Even though a lot of weight was lost, it was more about health within a cultural context. Over the course of the Pueblo Food Experience, it has become increasingly

2014 Food+Folklore Festival · September 12–14

LISTEN TO YOUR [THREE] SISTERS … And, to the more than 60 renowned Native American and James Beard Award–winning chefs, nationally recognized scholars, poets, and yes, even a team of Pueblo grandmothers, as they cook up a captivating weekend of taste-bud-sizzling breakfasts, stylish food truck lunches, and down-home to divine dinners, chased with famed New Mexico wines and tasty brews. Enjoy more cooking demos and tastings than you can shake a spoon at and raise your awareness of the burning food issues and hidden history that FUZE.SW 2014 Food + Folklore Festival brings to the table. Your ticket includes a weekend of delicious New Mexico breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and tastings, in addition to conversations with noted scholars, award-winning authors and chefs, and renowned artists. For more event info, call 505.476.1162 or visit fuzesw.museumofnewmexico.org

TICKETS: · $200 Early-bird price before August 19 · $200 for MNMF, Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, and Santa Fe Botanical Garden members · $250 After August 19 PURCHASE: · In the shops at the Museum of International Folk Art and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture · Online at museumfoundation.org/fuze · Or call 505.992.2715, ext. 9 Ticket proceeds benefit the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture and the Museum of International Folk Art and are tax-deductible ($112.50 on $250 and $87.50 on $200).

clear to me that diet is more of a reconnection to our cultural roots than simply a way to become healthier. I believe that what we put into our bodies is our primary link to who we are as Native peoples. This cultural connection is about actively choosing to continue our ancestral line. It is a cultural revolution rooted in using our physical health as our strength against corporations and industries that destroy us for their profit. Every time we don't buy that soda or cookie, we win the battle for our existence. With this kind of diet, we have our ancestors at our side. As a permaculturist, this holistic approach is cultural preservation in a living, breathing form. In the 1980s, I had a conversation with Bill Mollison, considered the father of permaculture, about how he came up with the name. He spoke about it as two words combined: permanent and culture, permaculture. I had no idea at the time that my journey into permaculture would lead me deeper into what culture really means and how tradition can help to transform both my mental and physical health. I did not know then that I was going to spend the rest of my life watching how life, of all kinds, interacts with place to create culture. My life changed when I realized that nature is doing a dance. If left alone long enough, it will balance out into a harmonious guild or living culture. What does not belong in a place dies, struggles, or has to work to adapt, whereas what thrives spends the least amount of energy to survive. People forget we do that same dance. We think we can go anywhere and do anything our minds think up. We forget that we are part of the community of life on Earth, and all things have places and conditions that fit better both culturally and genetically. I define culture as that which belongs to a place or a way of life because, through time, it has been formed by, and has helped create, its own context. Culture takes time. All the pieces must grow to fit together, to interact sustainably, to create something bigger than any one part (yet each part is wonderfully vital to the whole). The assimilation of Native Americans started centuries ago and continues to this day. One aspect of this is a change in our diet. As a result, our health has suffered greatly. Diabetes, cancer, kidney failure, hormonal imbalances, lymph system failure, obesity, autoimmune disorders, alcohol and drug addictions are just a few of the health issues suffered by Native peoples living in modern times. Some of the blame can be placed on our environment and lifestyles, but many of these symptoms come from what we put in our mouths.

support ideas about how long it takes people to adapt to their environments. Around the world, the evolution of skin color, hair, and many physical features is directly tied to where these traits originally developed. For instance, lighter-skinned people traditionally lived in colder, cloudier climates, which caused their genes to produce light skin in order to soak up vitamin D from the sun, while darkerskinned people evolved in sunnier places. Their skin protected them from getting too much sun. Darker-skinned people now living in cloudy climates suffer diseases from not having enough vitamin D while lighter-skinned people burn in sunnier climates. Pueblo people are fortunate to have lived in the same area for a very long time and we are genetically well adapted to the climate of the Southwest and the foods that have been grown here for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. We have a great opportunity to help ourselves create health and strength through cultural heritage. The Pueblo people are also blessed to still have the elders, land, seeds, and knowledge as resources. The Pueblo Food Experience has shown us how important it is to reconnect with our environment. Eating our original foods, we became healthier individuals creating healthier cultures. The Corn Mothers bless our fields and the clouds soak up our prayers over mountaintops. They recognize The People of this place by sending us deer, elk, and rabbit. We gather wild spinach and currants growing along our paths. Our songs match the directions of all that surrounds us so we stay connected. We are one with Place. www.floweringtreepermaculture.com Listen to participants talk about The Pueblo Food Experience at vimeo.com/82926771. Hear Roxanne Swentzell speak at FUZE SW, an exploration, past and present, of the folklore and customs that create a uniquely New Mexico culinary tradition. September 12 – 14, 2014, Santa Fe fuzesw.museumofnewmexico.org

Packaged foods have become the normal diet. These foods contain high levels of processed sugars, fats, and grains, as well as chemicals from pesticides and herbicides. Native peoples are particularly susceptible to diabetes because we have an inability to process and digest refined sugars and carbohydrates. For more than thirty years, Flowering Tree has grown native crops, but only recently have we understood that we need to eat what we grow, not just save seeds, to remind us of who we are. Based on the knowledge that native plants do better in their native environment, we found it is also true with humans. Since the complete mapping of the human genome in 2003, a number of studies have come to 34

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Roxanne Swentzell with her sculpture, Window to the Past.

edible traditions

Seeds of Sovereignty TESUQUE PUEBLO FARM

By Willy Carleton Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Tesuque Pueblo Farm.

Tucked in the pinon-juniper mesa lands above the Tesuque River and surrounded by the Sangre de Cristos and Jemez Mountains, the eighty-acre Tesuque Pueblo Farm is a work of utilitarian and bucolic art. Neat rows of orange California poppies pop against the expansive arid blue sky; adolescent tobacco, comfrey, and other medicinal plants dot the aisles between apple trees and grape vines; expansive fields of blooming buckwheat, rye, and hairy vetch—cover crops that build soil fertility and reduce weed pressure—stretch to the far corners of the farm. The farm, however, produces much more than visual

splendor. It produces food for the Pueblo, trains new generations of farmers, and saves seeds for the future. Perhaps most importantly, it provides an emphatic and important statement on the closely-linked relationship between sovereignty and food security. On a hot, dry day this past June, I had the pleasure of visiting and seeing what a farm that emphasizes food sovereignty actually looks like. As I walked around and spoke with head farmer Emigdio Ballon, a theme emerged in what I saw: long-term thinking. The farm disWWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


played a degree of future-mindedness that is often absent on the farms of even the most well-intentioned small-scale vegetable grower. In fact, the actual food coming out of the field—while certainly an important facet of the farm—at times felt like a side note to the larger project at hand of building a stronger, more resilient, and more independent future for the Pueblo. One of the clearest signs of long-term investment is the way the farm prioritizes soil health. Any farm that plans on being in production for the long haul must have a strategy to build and maintain soil health. The Pueblo has planted the majority of the thirty cultivated acres in cover crops—two types of buckwheat, rye, hairy vetch, sunflowers, and oats. They closely monitor the irrigation of these fields to ensure that the plants are healthy but never over-watered, and that water is not wasted. Similarly illustrative of the Pueblo’s far-sighted priorities is the abundant biodiversity of the farm. They cultivate many types of fruit trees and vegetable crops, many of which are landrace or heirloom varieties that farmers on Tesuque lands have grown for many generations. Maintaining so much well-acclimated plant variation provides an invaluable insurance policy for the future. As the climate changes, resources become more scarce and pests and diseases evolve. The timetested and continually evolving genetic material in the farm’s widerange of plants will help ensure food production in the face of climate change.

house harbors eighteen trial varieties of tomatoes; an array of solar panels powers it; and rain catchments wait below the gutters. The seed bank itself lies twelve feet below ground, where the insulation of the earth provides the climate control necessary for long-term seed storage. Earth-plastered walls cover the rounded forms of buried tires— the cellar’s foundation—and give the room a distinctly organic and cave-like feel. Mason jars filled with seeds sit on a few shelves, but the large room is mostly empty. Built for the long haul, the seed bank waits for the harvests of many seasons to come. “When you have sustainability, you have independence,” Ballon explains. With increased food independence comes a more secure future and greater sovereignty for the Pueblo. The farm and the many related projects at Tesuque offer a model to communities throughout the state interested in wisely investing in their future. By providing healthy food for members of the Pueblo; by providing meaningful, rewarding jobs; and by maintaining valuable genetic resources and biodiversity through seed breeding and seed saving, the Tesuque Pueblo Farm declares independence through the hoe. Hear Emigdio Ballon speak at FUZE SW, an exploration, past and present, of the folklore and customs that create a uniquely New Mexico culinary tradition. September 12 – 14, 2014, Santa Fe fuzesw.museumofnewmexico.org

Agricultural experiments in every corner of the farm indicate similar long-term thinking. From a cover crop of sunflower and buckwheat designed to smother bindweed to various vermiculture bins to a field of dry-farmed rye to the trial beds of several varieties of quinoa, the Pueblo has taken the time to develop better methods and crops suited to their land and climate conditions. In one experiment, they grew several varieties of apricot, peach, and cherry trees in a hoop house using an Upright Fruiting Offshoots (UFO) system. The Pueblo had planted trees at an angle and trained to them to grow horizontally. They clipped the tip and trained the branches to grow vertically along a trellis. This labor-intensive system outproduces conventional methods and makes efficient use of the precious warm air of the hoop house. The Pueblo’s emphasis on education at the farm certainly speaks to their deep commitment to the future. On the day I visited, twentytwo high school students hoed beds of garlic under the supervision of young farmers from the Pueblo. Such farm visits by students, I learned, are common. The farm prioritizes time to educate the next generation of food producers and food consumers. Of all the farm’s myriad long-term investments, the newly constructed seed bank stands out like a monument. Funded largely through the McCune Foudation and Christensen Fund, and constructed with straw bales, adobe, and local timber by Tesuque tribal members, the building is designed to preserve the genetic diversity of the farm without using fossil fuel. An attached, south-facing greenTesuque Pueblo Farm seed bank. 36

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Taste The New Southwest

Inspired by Northern New Mexico and infused with local and organically sourced ingredients, Executive Chef Andrew Cooper’s menu blends a seasonal sense of balance, place and comfort to create a new twist on contemporary American cuisine. For an unforgettable dining experience, be sure to ask us about our new chef’s table. 505.946.5700 • fourseasons.com/santafe • 198 state road 592, santa fe



This Land Is Not Our Land By Amanda Rich Photo by Stephanie Cameron

Vida Verde Farm on borrowed land, from left to right: Chris Rezk, Seth Matlick, Caitlin Kundrat, and Sam Hedges.

“In the nine years I’ve farmed, I’ve had seven plots of land, and I’ve lost four of them for various urban reasons,” laments Casey O'Leary, owner of Earthly Delights CSA and Seed Farm in Southern Idaho. Last week I had the chance to speak with my longtime friend and colleague about her most recent move. The landowners thought the farm looked too messy and after negotiations turned sour, they made a dramatic decision to bulldoze the entire garden right at harvest time. Casey estimates many of her seed crops were lost but she is not disheartened. We joke about digging out the lush, fertile topsoil she has created. I knew a young farmer who did that once. Trucked away as much as she could before watching the condos rise.


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This story is common. I am part of a generation of young farmers on borrowed land and borrowed time: A death in the family and the new landowners cut down heritage apple trees to build a house because “that spot is so pretty.” A change in tenants who previously promised “the landowners know about you and they love that you're farming here” turns out to be false and the farmer ends up jumping the fence to pick his or her own lettuce and spinach. The current owner decides to sell the property and the farmer has to move. These are all real scenarios and they are happening right now. Unfortunately, the wise use of land goes beyond interpersonal conflicts and property rights. The landscape of our nation shows an aging population of farmers who collectively hold almost four hundred million acres of farmland. At the average age of sixty, these farmers sell land to fund retirement and finance healthcare costs. In their article “This Land is Our Land?” Bob St Peter and Raj Patel state, “Rural America is on the cusp of one of the greatest transfers of land in its history and no one’s talking about it.” Who will buy these four hundred million acres and how will they be used? Currently, the two biggest corporate owners of land in the US are the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (Mormons) and TIAA-Cref, an investment company. In a recent statement EHNE-Bizkaia, the Basque Farmers Union, explained that this problem is actually global. “The problems of family farmers are the same in California, Euskal Herreria, Columbia, Africa. The big corporations have become owners of the land. Land for them is an object of production and they have forgotten that the land, truly has another objective, which is to feed our communities.” Profit motivates corporations. They do not necessarily think about the long-term health of our land and our communities. Currently, one of the plots I farm as part of Erda Gardens is bequeathed to a young man who will one day build a house there. The soil is beautiful. Seven years of hard work and compost and care has left it rich and black. Although it’s one of the CSA’s smallest plots, it consistently produces bounty. Full of flowers and perennial herbs, it attracts thousands of bees and other pollinating and beneficial insects. To think of this patch of heaven under a concrete slab one day makes my heart hurt, not just for myself but also for the sparrows dipping their sharp beaks into a sunflower supper. According to the American Farmland Trust, more than an acre of farmland per minute is sold for development. In the time it takes you to read this article, over ten acres will be rendered useless for farming. Land slated for development increases at a rate almost twice as fast as population growth. A perfect example of corporate land grab and development is the proposed Santolina subdivision that will add thirty-eight thousand homes to the Pajarito Mesa area near Albuquerque. Funded by Barclays PLC, a financial services company, it is hard to imagine these corporate interests have any idea of the nuanced issues and needs of the community. Where will the water come from to support the building and habitation of this West Mesa development? How will the small-scale farmers and inhabitants of the South Valley 40

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be affected? And why are we building twice as many houses as there are current residents? Do we need new houses more than food? Concurrent with the rapid loss of farmland is a revival of smallscale sustainable agriculture that could almost be called a groundswell. Thousands of young people across the country are picking up shovels and digging into abandoned lots, neighbors’ backyards, and any available land that can be loaned. These young entrepreneurs sell at farmers markets, restaurants, and create community supported agriculture projects where members join a farm by committing to the farmer and becoming more intimately connected with where their food comes from and how it is raised. The new generation of farmers is creative, industrious, thrifty, and flexible. The majority is also landless. The big picture of land grab and land reform in the US is a multifaceted issue and therefore the solution must be multifaceted as well. How can we make the four-hundred-million-acre hand off easier and safer to retiring farmers? Rural retirement and healthcare are both issues that need to be addressed creatively. Limitations to corporate land holdings and arable land-death development should be set. Student loan debt should be forgiven by agricultural work. And land should be put back into the hands of communities who wish to grow food. The conversation is larger than the Department of Agriculture, and the outcome will affect anyone who eats food grown in the US. We need to get creative if we want to sustain our communities for generations to come. Each year, young people come to Erda Gardens to learn how to practice small-scale sustainable agriculture. They speak of their dreams to create community gardens for children with autism or to grow produce for the retirement homes their grandparents live in. I wish for them a world in which they never have to jump fences, cart away topsoil, or cry over tree stumps. As EHNE-Bizkaia explains, “The land is a living being. It is not merchandise, it is a fellow voyager. It is our sustenance, our reason for living, and the meaning of our lives.”

RESOURCES FOR YOUNG FARMERS LandLink New Mexico Connecting land owners with farmers bit.ly/1u6iLU0 National Young Farmers Coalition Land and Job Opportunities www.youngfarmers.org/land-and-jobs New Agrarian Program Apprenticeships in sustainable agriculture www.quiviracoalition.org/New_Agrarian_Program Young Farmers & Ranchers Career Connection & Social Quivira Conference, November 13, 2014 www.quiviracoalition.com




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Home on the Range VERMEJO PARK RANCH By Amy White Photos by Stephanie Cameron

As I hauled in an eighteen-inch trout from the edge of Munn Lake, the view of snowcapped Little Costilla and Ash Mountain was spectacular. For three gorgeous sunny days in February, I had the unique opportunity to participate in a winter fly fishing and cooking class at Vermejo Park Ranch, and to explore the most pristine expanse of high plains ecosystem I may ever have the chance to see. When I arrived, I knew next to nothing about fly fishing, but now I am hooked. During the course of my visit, guides Doug Johnson and Keith Johnston took me anywhere I wanted to go on the 590,823-acre property, sharing all kinds of fascinating historical and ecological details. Johnson has worked on the ranch for more than thirty years, first as a cowboy and now as a guide. He probably knows more about the ranch than anyone else alive because he has explored nearly every inch of it on horseback. Johnston is a former pro rodeo rider from Tallahassee whose passion is duck hunting. He's not a bad elk hunter or fly fishing instructor either. The entire staff lives on-site, and they made me feel as if I were part of the family. Vermejo Park, along with Philmont Scout Ranch and Carson National Forest's Valle Vidal, was originally part of the 1.7-million-acre Maxwell Land Grant of 1841. Now owned by Ted Turner, founder of CNN and passionate eco-capitalist, Vermejo is the largest contiguous piece of privately-held land in the nation. It’s home to more than eight thousand elk and about twelve hundred head of bison, as well as mule deer, antelope, wild turkeys, eagles, bobcats, bears, and mountain lions. Turner owns fifteen ranches across the high plains, and views ranching and conservation as complementary goals. As a private landowner, he can move more quickly with restoration efforts than government agencies can with public lands. Maintaining these large tracts of land in an undeveloped state provides immense benefit to wildlife as well as to the rivers fed by their watersheds. As we explored the ranch, every bend and rise in the road revealed a new stunning view of the awesome Sangre de Cristo range, and sweeping vistas of shortgrass prairie—complete with prairie dogs. Many ranchers believe prairie dog holes trip cattle, and have worked hard to eradicate them, reducing their population to just ten percent of what it was before Europeans settled the West. But these rodents are a keystone species on shortgrass prairie, meaning their activities are integral to the survival of many other species and to overall biodiversity in their ecosystem. The reintroduction of prairie dogs to the Left: short grass prairie and wildlife at Vermejo Park Ranch. Page 44 from top left clockwise: Keith Johnston, Doug Johnson, and Chef James Africano; Amy White with her catch; rainbow trout; Underwood Lake; Costilla Lodge; and grilled trout with pepperoncini and heirloom tomato butter (find the recipe on our website). Page 45: five peppercorn seared elk rib chop

ranch is a key factor in the restoration of the black-footed ferret, one of the most endangered species in the US. Fly fishing is what originally brought Turner to the West, and serves as a great entry point for visitors to experience the abundance and diversity of the ranch. Vermejo has fourteen lakes and thirty miles of streams, some of which are stocked with brown, rainbow, and brook trout, but Turner's goal is to restore two hundred fifty river miles of native fish habitat on his US ranches. Wildlife managers have reintroduced New Mexico's state fish, the Rio Grande Cutthroat Trout, at the Vermejo and Ladder ranches, effectively keeping it off the endangered species list. After catching more trout than I could count, we returned to the cozy new Costilla Lodge, a rustic but luxurious building constructed of giant timbers and stone from the ranch. Ringed by snow-covered mountains at the nosebleed altitude of 10,200 feet, the LEED Silvercertified building is entirely off the grid, powered by a nearby array of solar panels. There, Executive Chef James Africano and Chef de Cuisine James Beranabe showed me and a few other guests how to prepare our catch in about half a dozen ways, including trout piccata, trout amandine, poached trout vinaigrette, and grilled trout with pepperoncini and heirloom tomato butter. Inspired by six years of nightly requests from guests to cook their freshly-caught fish, Africano recently released a cookbook, Trout: On The Fly. The food at Vermejo is superb, classic American comfort food with a modern twist. The menu changes weekly, with nightly specials, showcasing Northern New Mexico's unique terroir in dishes such as their succulent elk rib chop with red currant glacé. Gardener Jorge Ivanova coaxes fantastic produce from the ranch's kitchen garden, and the kitchen staff bake bread using homemade sourdough starter. They forage wild delicacies such as prickly pears, wild raspberries and strawberries, porcini and giant puffball mushrooms, wild asparagus, wild onions, and apples from an old orchard on the property. Africano sources locally as much as possible, including goat cheese from Raton, game from southern Colorado, and, of course, bison from Turner's ranches. In the arid West, where drought is the new norm, one way to cope is to raise native species such as bison, because they are better adapted to extreme weather than cattle. On most of Turner's ranches, bison




edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

are raised on the range and finished on grain and hay (not corn) to sweeten the meat rather than fatten the animals. Rocky Mountain Natural Meats near Denver humanely processes the meat, and it is available nationwide under the Great Range Bison label. Vermejo's bison, because they are one of only five genetically pure herds in North America, are only used as breeding stock. Turner Enterprises operates with a triple bottom line in mind— profit, community, and the environment. Turner now makes money from bison ranching, renewable energy enterprises, the newly purchased Sierra Grande Inn and Spa near Truth or Consequences, and his Ted's Montana Grill restaurant chain. Vermejo Park Ranch contributes to the economy in this remote part of Northern New Mexico by employing about thirty-five full-time and fifty seasonal personnel. The staff clearly embrace Turner's philosophy of ecological and community stewardship. Vermejo Park is the only one of Turner's ranches that operates as a full-service guest facility offering guided hunting trips, as well as less-expensive outdoor recreation and fishing getaways. Seasonal photography tours are offered a few times each year; cooking classes at Costilla Lodge are only in winter. As a special promotion now through September 8, locals can enjoy dinner at the lodge without booking a room, or a discounted rate on a one-night stay, which includes dinner and breakfast the next morning. Vermejo Park Ranch is a truly magical place that gives visitors a rare glimpse of the high plains ecosystem almost as it was before European settlement, which means some of the best wildlife viewing, hunting, and fishing anywhere. Recipes from Chef Africano at www.ediblesantafe.com/vermejo. 575-445-3097 www.vermejoparkranch.com




Story and Photo by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

Ryan Davidson and Sam Ryerson rope calves.

After a rushed breakfast, and with the sun barely above the horizon, I found myself outside a pink barn brushing Murphy, an aging barrel horse. Murphy and I, along with eight other horses and a crew of about fourteen people would travel to the heart of Ranney Ranch for the annual branding. After loading horses into a large trailer, I rode with ranch manager Melvin Johnson, a local cowboy named Ryan, and Ana, a young college student from Laramie, Wyoming, to the section of the ranch where the herd grazed. Our drive took us over rugged roads that rose and fell with particular drama. Later I learn that the topography of the road itself is intentional—designed to prevent it from becoming a river during big rains, and to turn the channelized water back out onto the land where it can irrigate the pastures. Johnson unloaded the horses and Nancy Ranney (one of three siblings who own the ranch in family partnership with their off46

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spring) discussed the plan for the roundup. Two teams on horseback would move the cows through a pass between gentle hills to holding pens to the southwest. For late June, the high elevation shortgrass prairie is remarkably verdant. At Ranney Ranch, the herd is moved every few days to a new section of the property. Rotational grazing allows cows to eat their fill without overgrazing. The herd’s movements mimic more active, wild herd animals that would have foraged on this landscape before fences. Since implementing holistic management in 2002, the identifiable grass species on the ranch has grown from five to forty-five. In short order, the soil is healthier and holds more moisture, grass is more productive, and biodiversity has increased. By eight we had moved the herd about a mile into holding pens where experienced ranch hands separated the cows from the calves, the only times in their lives they will

be confined or separated from their mothers. Our jobs for the day include vaccinating, branding, and tagging the calves. By noon we have completed our work, and we retired to the shade of a juniper to enjoy lunch. The juniper is one of a few on the landscape as the Ranneys have proactively removed much of the shrub to encourage growth of more grass. Junipers produce allelopathic chemicals that inhibit the growth of other plants. By removing these shrubs, grass is able to compete, the soil can hold more moisture, and the landscape fosters better habitat for small rodents and insects. After eating, a small group of us mounted up and headed southwest into a wide canyon by way of an old service road. One of several that run latitudinally across the eighteenthousand-acre ranch, each canyon is a small watershed that feeds into the Pecos. The health of the small tributary watersheds and

the larger Pecos watershed requires careful maintenance of the lands their waters traverse. In relative terms, this land can’t support much, but the animals, plants, water, and soil that thrive on the arid plains share essential and delicate bonds of life. For the Ranneys, a commitment to keeping their shortgrass prairie healthy meant many changes to the way they thought about beef production, including making a commitment to raising grassfed beef, joining the Southwest Grassfed Livestock Allianace and the Quivira Coalition, and operating within American Grassfed Association and Animal Welfare guidelines. Before 2002, the Ranneys’ parents operated the ranch as a traditional cow-calf operation with continuous grazing. Now, using holistic management and carefully considering acreage and annual waterfall (recent extreme drought as a major factor) to prevent overgrazing, the ranch supports about half the herd size. Traditionally, beef cattle forage in pastures until weaned at six months, and then are sold to be finished in a feedlot where they consume high calorie grains for weight gain and muscle marbling. This is an expensive process economically and environmentally, where the cow-calf operation only gets a small cut of the overall profit from the ultimate sale of the meat. Further, it also requires a tremendous amount of fossil fuel to transport the cows several times over the course of their lives and to grow the grain (often more than three thousand pounds per cow) necessary to bring them to full weight. The Organic Consumers Association, who tracked the typical supply chain a cow would follow, report that conventional beef travels over thirty-five hundred miles from ranch to distribution center, not accounting for the return trip miles. Production methods on Ranney Ranch require much less fossil fuel. Cows are raised on mother’s milk and in their growing years forage on open range pasture. In the Southwest, most cattle graze on rangeland grass (rarely on irrigated pasture due to the arid conditions) and are supplemented

with hay when necessary. Grassfed beef requires far fewer inputs than conventional beef production, but can still present challenges in the finishing process, particularly in New Mexico, where grass is sparse and spare, and where slaughter facilities are few and far between. Ranney Ranch beef is unique in that it is not finished. They sell most of their cattle as young beef direct to consumers shortly after they have been weaned. The Ranneys process the beef in Fort Sumner, and this short trip, for most of their cows, is the only fossil fuel their production requires. The meat tends to be lighter in color and more tender than meat from a more mature cow. Because the cows are raised on both pasture grass and mother’s milk, their meat is high in omega three and six fatty acids, vitamin E, beta-carotene, and conjugated linoleic acid. But ultimately, the reasons for selling their cows younger have everything to do with economics, sustainability, and good land management practices. By mid-afternoon, we have arrived back at the pink barn with tired but happy horses and riders. We retire to the house for showers, refreshments, and a little reflection on the day. We discuss the state of ranching in the West. The reality is, much of New Mexico’s landscape has been overgrazed by conventional cattle production, which contributes to environmental issues such as invasive species, desertification, drought, compromised watersheds, and climate change. Some would argue that New Mexicans simply shouldn’t be raising beef in such a dry and fragile environment. The Ranneys would argue that although cows have created many of the land and watershed issues we currently face, they could also be the key to solving these issues. By raising cattle in ways that reflect the limits of our landscape and resources—through careful range management and reducing inputs like grain, water, and fossil fuel— ranching in the Southwest presents an opportunity to restore land, watersheds, biodiversity, and economic vitality.

575-758-8866 www.thegorgebarandgrill.com located in the historic Taos Plaza



Order beef direct at www.ranneyranch.com.




edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

Resources: Water Footprint Network and Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations.

The New Normal FARM-TO-TABLE

By Jaye Wilkinson Photos by Stephanie Cameron

It’s easy to assume that eating establishments committed to ingredients from local farms are either expensive and trendy or are food trucks. In truth, many other eateries do what they can to support and use local food. It’s these establishments that lead the charge that could be the most important for our food security and overall sustainability. They represent a paradigm where knowing where your food comes from and what it is made of is expected, accessible, and the new normal. Northern New Mexico has a number of these establishments that may not show up on a locavore's radar. BIOPARK FOOD SERVICE Annie Fedora, general manager of food service for the BioPark in Albuquerque, started preparing food from veggies grown on-site at the Botanical Garden’s Rio Grande Heritage Farm in 2007, long before Albuquerque had opened itself to the field-to-fork movement. This was not an easy task as the city runs the BioPark and the food service is contracted to a national service company. Fedora took it on to do all the paperwork and established the infrastructure to get the Heritage Farm licensed as a Certified Food Source. Although this hurdle exists to help ensure public safety, it is definitely a bureaucratic hassle and keeps many small, local farms from being able to provide their produce to public and corporate institutions. It is also why many schools that have developed on-site gardens cannot serve the food they grow (but that is a soapbox for another day). Almost all of the veggies grown at the Heritage Farm Fedora serves to the public at the BioPark or other city sponsored events. In addition to the cafe and snack bars at the aquarium and zoo, Fedora prepares food at the Summer Nights concert series and caters the green rooms for Summerfest. She and her staff also cater the main feast at the City of Albuquerque’s Renaissance Faire, host special dinners like the Bug Dinner, not to mention countless weddings, and other special events at the BioPark. As a career executive chef, Fedora has served presidents and foreign leaders, as well as managed several large food service operations. She works closely with her staff—named Green Team of the Year by their parent corporation—to make sure whatever isn’t used immediately from the Heritage Farm gets put up in the freezer for the winter. She works closely with sous chef Andy Garay, implementing a preservation program to have pickles and preserves to supplement the menu during the winter months, including heirloom green chile (they have their own

From top right, clockwise: Nicole Martinez, Cesar Lopez, Paloma Sanchez, and Ismael Cruz of Yanni's; the Heritage Farm at the Biopark; Francisco Diaz, farmers market salad, and purple broccoli at the Swiss Bakery; carrot soup at The Kitchen; and Olive Tyrrell of The Kitchen.

roaster), hot peppers, sweet peppers, grapes, squash, corn, beans, berries, tomatoes, cucumbers, and any herb you can imagine, all from the farm. Having spent a large part of her life on the West Coast, Fedora initiated the Sustainable Seafood Festival at the BioPark after her frustration in locating good seafood options in our land-locked state. And if you have ever been to the Festival of Lights, it’s likely that your hot apple cider came from apples grown in their orchard. Go visit the farm, go eat the harvest. 2601 Central NW, Albuquerque 505-848-7182 cabq.gov/biopark

YANNI’S An Albuquerque institution, Yanni’s has served well-prepared Greek dishes from its location on Central Avenue for the past twenty-one years. Owned and operated by the mother-daughter team of Chris Komis and Nicole Martinez Kapnison, this bright and beautiful restaurant with a stunning dark-wood lounge has expanded its horizons to include an on-site garden. Kapnison is a Nob Hill native who grew up in the restaurant. She wants to grow awareness of the beauty of freshly harvested ingredients, as well as develop more sustainable practices in her business. Across the alley from the restaurant, the Yanni’s family has a dirt lot, historically used as extra parking, adjacent to a multi-family residence they also own. They have repurposed this lot to support raised garden beds and fruit trees. They worked with two young gardeners, Paloma Sanchez and Gretchen Garcia, with advice and tangible support from the local farming community such as Growing Awareness and ARCA’s head farmer, Sean Ludden. Yanni’s started with two sixty-foot beds they planted in early May. They practice square-foot gardening, an excellent way to get maximum production from their limited space, growing all




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kinds of herbs, cucumbers, peppers, melons, tomatoes, and eggplant. They planted fig trees in large pots, as well as invasive herbs like mint. Come fall they will install cold frames to continue a harvest of greens and herbs into the cold months. Chef Cesar Lopez and his crew, many of whom have worked at Yanni’s for more than a decade, look forward to working with produce from the garden. A couple of the cooks who live at the residence attached to the garden are excited about the day-to-day maintenance, harvest, and care of the produce. Kapnison knows that this small space could hardly support the whole restaurant; her goal is to highlight the important connection between what you feed yourself and where it comes from. Yanni’s will feature the harvest in from-the-garden-type specials, and eventually one hundred percent of the herbs used in the restaurant will be produced on-site. She wants to continue building beds until the lot is filled, which in the coming years could provide a surprising amount of vibrant, fresh food. 3109 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-268-9250 www.yannisandlemoni.com

THE KITCHEN I’m doing that selfish thing. I weigh telling you something that would be to your benefit against not wanting to give up a special secret. The Kitchen, located at Plants of the Southwest in Santa Fe and run by artist and chef Olive Tyrrell, is one such secret. Tyrell exercises talent and skill when it comes to preparing the local produce that is the backbone of her dishes. Each day she prepares something different, and the menu only has one (always vegetarian) option. She works closely with Ancient Waters Farm out of La Madera, and sources much of her greens and herbs on-site from the Plants of the Southwest nursery. Fresh farm eggs come from a friend in Lamy, and any pantry staples not locally sourced are always organic and fair trade. Of the many things that Tyrrell and I agree on, flavor is paramount. She, like myself, gets quite irate when beautiful ingredients are poorly prepared, under-seasoned, or glossed over. She loves sauces, salsas, relishes, and dressings that complement and coax simple ingredients to their full glory without masking the uniqueness of each element. She has an innate talent for balancing the palate in each meal. She carefully curates her flavor profiles and textures—earthy and bright, crunchy and yielding, spicy and sweet—to be at once spontaneous and compatible. Gail Haggard, who owns Plants of the Southwest, found the perfect person in Tyrrell to represent her vision of healthy, local food in an idyllic environment. She trusts the details to Tyrrell, the sole Kitchen employee, dishwasher to chef. Here is the important part: they are only open six months a year, May to November, to follow the seasons and available produce. Also, they are only open for lunch, 11am to 2pm. For less than ten dollars, you can eat there every day and be a happier person for it. Healthier too, but that’s not the point. 3095 Agua Fria, Santa Fe 505-438-8888 www.plantsofthesouthwest.com


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

SWISS BISTRO & BAKERY I just transplanted the blue and white tomato starts that Jennie Coe gave me after our interview. The black zebra tomato seeds will hopefully sprout within the week. By the time you are reading this I hope to be paying forward the fruits of this gift. I have never met anyone so excited or proud of her efforts—she has reason to be so pleased. With two and a half acres inside the city limits of Santa Fe she cultivates a garden packed full of heirloom vegetable varieties from around the world, making it perhaps the most unique garden in the state. Even better, all of her produce will head to the Swiss Bistro & Bakery. Friends from around the world have helped her collect seeds from Russia, China, England, Lithuania, Australia, and Africa. She has ancient varietals that can be traced back five thousand years, including purple spinach, cauliflower, romanesco, and chard. She boasts rare tomatoes from China including white, blue, and purple varieties. She also grows giant heads of softball-size garlic, unusual cucumbers, sunburst hearted carrots, herbs, greens, potatoes, peas, beans, and squash, all grown using organic practices in a garden near downtown Santa Fe. She aims to grow one hundred percent of the restaurant’s produce during peak season. In the interim she works with a local farm that provides the Bistro’s greens and other produce. The restaurant’s menu is a perfect vehicle for Coe’s produce. The daytime fare is an assortment of Swiss brunch specialties: crepes, house-made pizzas, hearty salads, and European-style sandwiches. In the evening the menu is

stepped up a notch, highlighting northwestern Swiss dining, with both French and German influences, but the environment (and price) are still comfortable and accessible. Coe gets choked up talking about the garden and how it makes her feel to nurture the seed, grow the food, bring it to the kitchen, and serve it to the public. Her love for the ingredients is palpable. We bonded over our favorite tomato, German Stripe. She gave me tips on growing them. She admits an inability, due to time, to grow the heirloom strawberry seeds she has, as the sprouting process is a several month chore, so she gave them to me. If all goes well, in two years I can bring her starts thinned from the patch. This goal alone shines a light on the value of a close-knit, interdependent, and thriving food community. As more restaurants and food establishments do what they can to support local food and to become part of that community, it moves us closer to a sustainable food system for everyone. Did I mention that the food is great too? 401 S Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-988-1111 www.swissbakerysantafe.com

Next time you eat out, ask what ingredients on the menu were grown in New Mexico, you might be surprised at the places you find local food.



wild thing

Committed to Conservation HUNTING FOR TURKEY HABITAT By Rachel Shockley

Merriam’s Turkey, Photo courtesy of New Mexico Department of Game and Fish.

Storm Usrey walked up the dirt road in the pale light of dawn on opening day of spring turkey hunting season. A short way from the truck, he heard the unmistakable gobble of a tom turkey. He also saw a pickup nearby. The truck undoubtedly belonged to other hunters, early risers who were probably hunting the gobbling tom. Skipping a long hike and pursuing the bird crossed Usrey’s mind, but it wouldn’t have been right. Instead, he made his way to where he thought he would find turkeys, a small canyon a little more than a two-mile hike from the road. Water rushed along the canyon bottom as Usrey trekked past stands of oak, aspen, and ponderosa. Bits of green grass, as well as patches of snow, carpeted the ground. Turkey sign was everywhere. Usrey staked his turkey decoys in the ground and hid near a stump. He hadn’t heard any turkeys since daybreak, so he decided to take it slow. He called a few times, imitating the yelp of a hen, and then he waited. After almost an hour, Usrey heard something coming up behind him. The rustling footsteps in the oak leaves grew louder, and Usrey’s heart began to pound. Usrey slowly looked over his shoulder. A huge tom turkey was just five yards away, investigating the decoys. Suddenly the turkey spooked then trotted down the canyon. Another tom rose and retreated. In an instant, Usrey was alone and the only turkeys in sight were his decoys. Usrey began hunting turkeys with his family at age fourteen; his love of turkeys grew into a passion, and later into a career. Today, as a game bird biologist for the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish, he is responsible for managing the three turkey subspecies found in 52

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

New Mexico, including the rare Gould’s, found only in New Mexico, Arizona, and Mexico. He admits he is obsessed with the bird. He has hunted the bird in six states and can rattle off the Latin names of all five subspecies found in the contiguous US with ease: Merriam’s, Meleagris gallopavo merriami; Rio Grande, Meleagris gallopavo intermedia; Osceola, Meleagris gallopavo osceola; Eastern, Meleagris gallopavo silvestris; and Gould's, Meleagris gallopavo mexicana. Although turkeys are native to North America, the birds nearly vanished from the landscape as European settlers moved across the west, hunting and logging without restraint. By the 1930s, wild turkey populations were dangerously low and much of their forest habitat had been cleared. Concerned hunters, conservationists, and state wildlife agencies banded together to restore turkey habitat, increase turkey populations, conduct research, and regulate hunting. Their efforts resulted in a marked increase in turkey populations by the end of World War II. According to the National Wild Turkey Federation, there were one and a half million wild turkeys in North America in 1973. Forty years later, that number had increased to almost seven million. “The turkey is one of the greatest North American conservation success stories,” Usrey said. Today, turkeys in New Mexico and across the US are numerous, but habitat loss and drought can still have a huge impact. “Turkeys are sensitive to moisture,” Usrey said. “When there is abundant moisture, at the right time, turkeys do well, and when there is little, turkey populations respond negatively.” In times of drought, the quality of a turkey’s habitat can mean the difference between steady population numbers or a decline.

Conserving wildlife habitat, and improving it, is an important part of the conservation ethic that drives Usrey and hunters across America. The New Mexico Department of Game and Fish has partnered with the sportsmen’s group the National Wild Turkey Federation, and the US Forest Service on one such restoration project in the Zuni Mountains of western New Mexico. Together they plan to improve turkey habitat on nearly five thousand acres of public lands by thinning dense stands of ponderosa pines. “Overgrown forests, with thick stands of small diameter trees, are not healthy wildlife habitat,” said Scott P. Lerich, senior regional biologist for the National Wild Turkey Federation. Thinning of the forests allows more sunlight to reach the soil, Lerich explained. Sunlight increases the number of grasses, leafy plants, and wildflowers that grow on the forest floor. Boosting the biodiversity of plants causes a ripple effect. It increases the number of pollinators, such as bees and moths. It also increases the number of migratory birds, turkeys, deer, elk, and mountain lions that can find food and shelter in the habitat. In addition, bushy plants and grasses provide essential cover for young wildlife, hiding them from predators until they can fend for themselves. The improved vegetation also helps retain moisture in the soil and reduces erosion-causing runoff during heavy rains. Improved water quality isn’t the only far-reaching benefit of forest thinning, it also reduces the danger of wildfires, Lerich said. As a group, hunters, anglers, and trappers are one of the major supporters of wildlife and habitat conservation in New Mexico. Hunters bought more than six hundred thousand licenses and stamps in New Mexico for the 2013 – 2014 license year in order to participate in the sport, generating about thirty million dollars in revenue. The Department of Game and Fish uses this money—as well as matching federal dollars from excise taxes on guns, ammunition, and other equipment—to fund conservation efforts benefiting all the wildlife in New Mexico. In addition to paying license fees, hunters, anglers, and trappers volunteer their time and donate money to support habitat improvement projects, wildlife research, and conservation education.

BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE We use only locally raised New Mexico beef, lamb, and pork and hand cut the meat daily. Tuesday - Sunday Lunch 11am - 2:30pm, Dinner 5pm - 9pm


I DbTiOs W N tro

901 West San Mateo • Santa Fe, NM Reservations: 505-820-3121 MIDTOWNBISTROSF.COM

Lambert’s strives to create a sanctuary for our guests, where they will enjoy delicious food, wine, and cocktails in a relaxed, yet refined, atmosphere.

Similar hunter-funded habitat improvement projects, such as the one in the Zuni Mountains, are being deployed throughout the state. “Hunting and habitat go hand in hand,” Lerich said. “We can’t have quality hunting without quality wildlife habitat, and our history has shown we won’t have sustainable wildlife habitat unless hunters are involved.” By the end of opening day, Usrey had carefully hunted and harvested the two large toms that spooked in the creek bed. The birds were impressive with their long spurs, beards, and large tail fans with off-white bands near the tips. After filling his legal harvest limit, he field dressed the birds and stored them in his turkey vest for the hike out. Those who take to the woods always bring home great memories and occasionally some awesome table fare, Usrey explained. In addition, the money they spend to buy licenses, stamps, and permits is used to help manage turkeys and other wildlife for future generations to enjoy.

123 Bent Street, Taos ∙ 575-758-1009 ∙ LambertsofTaos.com Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; Sunday Brunch: 10:30-2:30; Happy Hour, 2:30-5:30; Dinner nightly 5:30-close. WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


Bring Home the Local Shop at your nearest growers’ market for the freshest, best tasting food brought to you directly by the people who grow and raise it. See what’s happening in your community and get to know your local farmers!

Summer 2014–15

Feel great about the food you eat.

Locally GrocalwFonod New Mexico’s Guide to Lo

Pick up your copy of “Locally Grown” today. Available at newsstands that carry edible Santa Fe, and across the state at WIC clinics, farmers’ markets and community centers. Or, call the New Mexico Farmers’ Marketing Association at 888-983-4400 and we’ll mail you a copy. © Alan Eckert Photography


www.FarmersMarketsNM.org edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

edible notables

From left to right: Ziggy Rzig, owner; Ali Mzee, meat carver; and Gabriel Varela, sous chef. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

OMIRA – COMMITTED TO SOURCING LOCAL Ziggy Rzig, owner and chef of Omira, started his rodízio style restaurant because it is the way he likes to eat: protein and veggies. Prior to Omira, he ran an international grocery store for several years in Santa Fe and became very familiar with all kinds of cuisine. He says, "You don’t have to be a certain race or ethnicity to prepare specific cuisine for your restaurant." He does rodízio with an international twist. Unlike a traditional Brazilian steakhouse, Omira offers a fusion of South American, Asian and Mediterranean flavors, making it a one-of-a-kind dining experience. Rzig is committed to sourcing local meat and produce because he believes in small business supporting small business. He knows when he sources from a local producer the ingredients will simply be better. Small business owners like him, go the extra step to provide great service and quality. He has visited the farms he sources from and knows the animals are treated humanely, ultimately making for a better product. "You taste the difference.” He buys lamb from Talus Wind Ranch and beef from Four Daughters Land and Cattle. The one protein he currently can’t source locally is chicken—no producers can provide the quantity he needs for his restaurant. His mission is to provide Santa Fe with great small business hospitality, service, and quality. Omira offers no menus—on any given day you can find over eighteen salads on the salad bar and eight different cuts of meat. Not sticking to a menu allows Rzig to keep it fresh and spirited. At Omira you pay a flat rate for your meal. In traditional rodízio style waiters bring samples of food to your table until you signal that you have had enough. 1005 S St Francis, Santa Fe 505-780-5483 www.omiragrill.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


edible notables

Tony Blankenship, Rio Chama Executive Chef. Photos by Kate Russell.


RIO CHAMA – WELCOMES NEW CHEF Rio Chama welcomes new chef Tony Blakenship to the helm. Blakenship began his career at age nineteen in kitchens as the low man in the pecking order, washing dishes. After studying at the Arizona Culinary Institute, he moved to Santa Fe to work at Hotel Santa Fe, Encantado Resort, and most recently as sous chef at the Club at Las Campanas. In his new role as executive chef, Blakenship has designed a new menu based on simple farm fresh ingredients in elegant combinations. 414 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-955-0765 www.riochamasteakhouse.com

THE BAVARIAN – SUSTAINABLE SUNDAY DINNERS This summer the Bavarian presents an elevated dining experience: Sustainable Sunday Dinners at 5:30pm every Sunday during August. Make your reservation today for one of these three-course, locally grown, seasonally inspired dinners hosted by local farmers. Seats are limited. The Sunday dinner series consists of a one hundred percent locally grown three course preset seasonal menu paired with a host of outstanding speakers. These special guests are locally and nationally


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

edible notables recognized for their work in strengthening the economic livelihoods of local farmers, building connections to local markets and schools, and advancing wellness and awareness in our communities through locally grown, organic, nutritious food. Make this, a one-of-a-kind dining experience, part of your summer. A percentage of the proceeds goes to a local Taos seed exchange. • • • •

August 3 – Benji Apodaca, Taos High School Culinary Arts August 10 – Bernadette Lucero, Rio Culebra August 17 – Karen Todd, Dragonfly Cafe August 24 – TBD

100 Kachina, Taos Ski Valley 575-776-8020 www.thebavarian.net

Every fall the Rio Grande Agricultural Land Trust celebrates its work of keeping farms and ranches in production with an annual Harvest Dinner. This farm-to-fork event, held this year at Farm & Table in Albuquerque’s North Valley, brings together some of Albuquerque’s finest chefs and farmers in a beautiful evening of dining under the stars. Join the land trust on Sunday, September 14 at 5pm for an evening not to be missed featuring the collaborative efforts of Chris Pope of Zinc, Season, and Savoy, and Sean Sinclair of Farm & Table for five courses of exclusively local cuisine, and to celebrate conservation work in the Middle Rio Grande. Tickets are $95 before September 1 and $110 after. Reserve your seat today! 505-270-4421 www.rgalt.org

A HARVEST DINNER – RIO GRANDE AG LAND TRUST What happens to our land directly affects our water supply, wildlife habitats, fresh food supplies, and the vitality and heritage of our rural communities. Since 1997, RGALT has preserved open space, agricultural lands, and wildlife habitat through the use of voluntary conservation easements. The land trust's vision is of a landscape rich in vegetation and wildlife, with water in the river and ditches, thriving farms and rural communities, and farmers markets that link rural and urban communities. You can help RGALT in these efforts. WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


edible notables

Greg O'Byrne, exectutive director, Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta.

THE MAN BEHIND SANTA FE WINE & CHILE Greg O’Byrne started as the executive director of Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta (SFWC) in 1994 while managing the Coyote Café. He served tastings at Coyote Cafe’s food booth the first year in 1991. But O’Byrne’s love for food and wine began even earlier. After working in Paris as a software engineer for a year, he heard (or tasted) the siren’s call—a Côte du Provence rosé with the Vietnamese crispy spring rolls on long Parisian lunches. O’Byrne was lured from a promising tech career to a life of mastering wine and food pairings. Although he is a certified sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers and is often asked to participate in other regional wine festivals, mostly he is self-taught. He says, “The best education is to pull corks and since I believe in wine with dinner every night, I have had a lot of self-education.” O’Byrne has befriended many of our country’s great winemakers and chefs. He loves learning from them and they trust his sensibilities, which makes SFWC a collaborative success.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

When asked about his favorite encounter with food and wine greatness, O’Byrne tells the tale of inviting Alice Waters to dinner at his house. He spit-roasted a whole lamb with Molly and Antonio Manzaneras from Shepherd’s Lamb. But truth be told, his favorite dinner guests are his neighbors. He would love to show all of Marcel Pagnol’s movies on a neighbor’s wall to a small group while enjoying good food and wine together on a summer evening. O’Byrne’s community spirit is reflected in SFWC. Part of the event is an auction of unique wine experiences, such as dinner for eight in the winner's home with guest chef Mark Kiffin or cases of once-in-a-lifetime wines. Many of the SFWC guest chefs participate with Santa Fe’s Cooking with Kids so it’s a natural beneficiary of auction proceeds. Los Alamos National Bank has recently bolstered the auction by becoming a partner. While all national wine events have their own identity, what makes SFWC unique is Santa Fe restaurants—eighty participate— attracting one hundred of the world’s best wineries. New Mexico food and wine connoisseurs are the winners in this relationship. SFWC also hosts half a dozen of New Mexico’s best wineries. TIP: While you can’t taste it all at SFWC, you can get an early copy of the Grand Tasting program that lists all the wineries and restaurants, see what they are serving, and make a plan. Start with sparkling wines, move to rieslings, then lighter reds and so forth. As you should in life, taste, sip, genuflect, repeat. 24th Annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta September 24 - 28, 2014, www.santafewineandchile.org

Family owned from farm to cup www.villamyriam.com

Greg O'Byrne, exectutive director, Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta.

Single Origin Coffee - 311 Gold Ave SW - (505) 814-1599 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


24th AnnuAl

Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta september 24—28, 2014

Matthew Accarrino SPQR, San Francisco

Michelle Bernstein Michy's, Miami

James Campbell Caruso La Boca, Santa Fe

Andrew Cooper Terra, Santa Fe

Charles Dale Bouche Bistro, Santa Fe

Eric DiStefano Coyote Cafe & Geronimo

Tim Gaiser Master Sommelier

Bill & Cheryl Jamison Authors

Juan Bochenski Anasazi, Santa Fe

Jeffrey Kaplan The Bistro, Santa Fe

Mark Kiffin, The Compound, Santa Fe

Geoff Labitzke, MW Kistler Vineyards

Kim Mueller izanami, Santa Fe

Kevin Nashan, Sydney St. Cafe, St. Louis

Fernando Olea Epazote, Santa Fe

Martin Rios Restaurant Martin, Santa Fe

Joe Spellman, MS Justin Vineyards

Anthony Smith Eldorado Hotel, Santa Fe

Grand Tasting at the Santa Fe Opera 100 Wo r ld-Class W i ner i es 80 G r e at Sant a Fe Res t aur ants Satu r da y Se pte m ber 27 th

Schedule & Tickets

Laura Werlin Author, San Francisco


Emily Wines Master Sommelier

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

Matt Yohalem Il Piatto, Santa Fe

Gruet Winery, 25 Years! SFWC Sparkler of the Year

www. sant af ewine andchi l e.or g

table hopping


By Rocky Durham Photos by Stephanie Cameron Those of us in the know understand that New Mexico offers unique, amazingly diverse, and oftentimes world-class dining experiences. For the inexperienced, New Mexican cuisine is frequently misread as soft brown food covered with melted cheese and flavorless, albeit fiery enchilada sauce. Considering our rich agricultural heritage, it should be no surprise that New Mexican food is eclectic and of high quality. After all, people living along the broad banks of the Rio Grande have cultivated crops to feed communities for thousands of years. We are also one of the most geologically diverse areas on planet Earth, which may very well explain the unique terroir of New Mexican cuisine. We are also the location of the New World’s first fusion cuisine, which I like to call Sixteenth Century Indigenous American Iberian. To be fair, we New Mexicans might not be well versed in the distinct flavors and food configurations of Maine and assume all they eat are blueberries and lobster. Or perhaps

we believe that Hawaiians subsist on a diet of pineapple and Spam. Neither is likely. Americans are blessed with an incredibly diverse and rich food culture. I often refer to this variation as a regional culinary accent. Just like quirky, local language or regional patois, culinarians can develop inflections specific to their locales. Perhaps you have noticed such occurrences when traveling and dining around this great nation? Gastronomic variety is one of our country’s distinctive strengths. It may seem that I preach to the converted, handsome-and-well-educated-edible-readers. In fact, as I write this, I imagine you nod in agreement. We are not alone and are in good company when it comes to this notion. Perhaps you have heard of a little outfit out of New York called the James Beard Foundation? Its mission statement crystallizes this concept beautifully: “To celebrate, preserve and nurture America’s culinary heritage and diversity.”



Every year since 1990, the James Beard Foundation (JBF) has recognized culinary professionals for excellence and achievement in their respective fields, from best regional chef to humanitarian and leadership awards. The Beard Awards (thankfully not called the “Foodies”) are the highest honor for food and beverage professionals working in North America. Since 1990, the JBF has awarded more than thirty medals of excellence in a dozen categories annually, and another set of medals to exceptional chefs nominated and voted on by region. While a JBF Award is a high honor, even making the nominations list is no small feat. In 2014, the category of Best Chef alone received more than thirty-eight hundred entries. Each award category has an individual awards committee made up of industry professionals who oversee the policies, procedures, and selection of judges for their respective awards program. The Restaurant and Chef Awards committee produces a ballot for best chef with approximately twenty semifinalists each in ten regions designated by location and population. For the record, one does not need to be a member of the JBF to nominate or be nominated.

areas of the state to showcase. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with all of the noteworthy chefs, restaurants, and other culinarians celebrated by JBF this year and in the past.

If you have not yet experienced Muller’s food, get to Taos for some “La Comida de las Sierras,” Muller’s signature: simple food prepared well. If you detect a Moorish influence in his culinary accent, that might come from his time living and traveling abroad or from his intimate understanding of New Mexico’s rich cultural heritage. Muller hopes to use his notoriety to revive and focus a Southwest culinary lexicon.

Chef Rob Connoley, The Curious Kumquat

ROB CONNOLEY When I contacted Rob Connoley of The Curious Kumquat in Silver City he said, “We don’t get much coverage down in the sticks.” According to Connoley, when he opened the restaurant, his goal from day one was to provide James Beard caliber food to Silver City. “We didn't have aspirations for being known nationally, but we knew in this cool little town that people would love super-fresh, innovative cuisine.” Connoley is known among gastronomes for incorporating unusual foraged ingredients into his cuisine, demonstrating true Gila terroir. Among his community, he is known as kind, generous, colorful, and a champion of equality. The nomination validated his long hours and the intense studying that goes into every aspect of his operation. He says, “The nomination paid my emotional salary for a few years!” Kudos chef!

You probably are not surprised to learn that New Mexico chefs and other culinarians are often nominated and chosen for these awards. Both Jennifer James of Albuquerque and James Campbell Caruso of Santa Fe have been nominated five times for Best Chef. JBF recognized both James and Martin Rios as semifinalists for Best Chef two years running in 2012 and 2013. Mark Kiffin of the Compound won the award for Best Chef in 2005. New Mexico can also boast accolades in several cookbook categories—Cheryl and Bill Jamison boast five awards and Deborah Madison two. Of the twenty semifinalist chefs nominated in the Southwest region (encompassing Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas, and Utah), New Mexicans got six nods for Best Chef. New Mexico can also claim one of only thirty semifinalists in the country for Best New Restaurant of 2014!


We’ve selected a few of New Mexico’s talented JBF recognized chefs from different

When I heard that Frederick Muller of El Meze in Taos made the cut, my first thought


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

was, in which category? Muller is not only an extremely gifted chef, he also wears the hats of author, journalist, and food historian. I would not have been surprised if he were awarded a Beardie for any of his passionate, professional endeavors.

Chef Frederick Muller, El Meze

JONATHAN PERNO Chef Jonathan Perno was not aware that the JBF was considering him for an award until a member of his kitchen team told him. To quote the modest chef, “I was pretty happy to hear that.” In an attempt to parry the spotlight, Perno gives credit to our rich agricultural heritage—without the partnership of talented local producers, his team could not work the magic that manifests from La Merienda’s kitchen. In fact, Perno spends a good deal of time in the farm garden just outside the restaurant’s kitchen, studying ingredients in an effort to cultivate



a hyper-regional, Rio Grande cuisine. He notes that with the commitment of many of his contemporaries in New Mexico, the regional culinary repertoire is only getting better and stronger every year.

Chef Johnathan Perno, Los Poblanos

The JBF Awards do more than single out and celebrate a few exceptional industry professionals. They recognize and bring attention to the breadth and depth of American culinary culture. Healthy competition breeds excellence and innovation. It also fosters camaraderie, collaboration, and a collective sense of pride in the wealth of unique regional cuisines that define one country’s gastronomy as a whole. Highlighting individuals and properties from the JBF’s ten regions also brings awareness to what we, as a part of a national industry, do locally. The awards, in a sense, define American cuisine by showcasing the best cooking regionally, as well as by defining national trends. The most notable trend is a return to sourcing high quality local ingredients. A farm-to-table ethic has returned as the standard, not a unique style or punchy descriptor for trendy eateries. This practice does more than buttress local economies and offer healthier ingredients to patrons. By embracing the regionally inimitable elements of our culinary culture, we help define our beautiful, distinctive, and defining accents.

Jennifer Rios, Martín’s wife, business partner, and biggest cheerleader, says they are extremely honored to be in such great company with the Beard Awards. Rios feels that the national dining public does not always recognize the Southwest region as being a culinary powerhouse. Therefore, the positive attention from such an amazing institution as the JBF will help to serve this community well.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

BEST CHEF, SOUTHWEST SEMIFINALISTS James Campbell Caruso, La Boca 72 W Marcy, Santa Fe 505-982-3433 www.labocasf.com Rob Connoley, The Curious Kumquat 111 E College, Silver City 575-534-0337 www.curiouskumquat.com Jennifer James, Jennifer James 101 4615 Menaul NE, Albuquerque 505-884-3860 www.jenniferjames101.com Frederick Muller, El Meze 1017 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, El Prado 575-751-3337 www.elmeze.com Jonathan Perno, La Merienda at Los Poblanos Inn 4803 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque 505-344-9297 www.lospoblanos.com Martín Rios, Restaurant Martín 526 Galisteo, Santa Fe 505-820-0919 www.restaurantmartin.com


Team Rios reflects so many of the values of this venerated award. They have hosted many regional semifinalists at their Santa Fe property for off-site JBF dinners. This, of course, helps raise public awareness about our culinary community and lets some of our best and brightest share their skills with the public and their fellow chefs. The menu at Restaurant Martín is rooted in high quality local ingredients, classic technique, and dazzling presentation. Rios has designed, planted, and maintains an on-site garden. In part, his skill and prowess as a chef is rooted in respect for the land and his commitment to his staff and family who are the center of his operation.


BEST NEW RESTAURANT SEMIFINALIST Izanami at Ten Thousand Waves 3451 Hyde Park, Santa Fe 505-428-6390 www.izanamisantafe.com

OUTSTANDING WINE, BEER, OR SPIRITS PROFESSIONAL NOMINEE Ron Cooper, Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal Ranchos de Taos www.mezcal.com Chef Martín Rios, Restaurant Martín Page 61, top right, counterclockwise: El Meze, Truchas yerba-buena–grilled whole trout with preserved lemon, mint, cilantro, garlic, and Moroccan butter; The Curious Kumquat, cattail, mango, borage, pinon, sesame, and stinging nettles; Restaurant Martín, pan-seared halibut with black rice, shaved asparagus, watermelon radish, and carrot nage; Los Poblanos, smoked pork belly with local greens, green chile corn cake, and stone fruit compote.




New Mexico's only certified authentic, handcrafted, wood-fired Neapolitan pizza. Handmade mozzarella, dessert pizzas, local beers, Italian wines. Casual atmosphere and rooftop patio.


villa myriam

311 Gold SW, Albuquerque 505-814-1599, www.villamyriam.com Family owned from farm to cup, we are steeped in three generations of coffee excellence.


2929 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-554-1967, www.amoreabq.com








Support these restaurants, and support local food communities.

300 Broadway NE, Albuquerque 505-265-4933, www.hartfordsq.com

600 Central SE, Albuquerque 505-248-9800, www.thegrovecafemarket.com

A three level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites!

Our seasonal menu features local ingredients and changes weekly—enjoy the variety! Breakfast, lunch, and dinners-to-go. Sunday Brunch. Specialty coffee. Wonderful baked goods. Catering.

The Grove features a bustling cafe experience serving breakfast, brunch and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia, coffee and tea, beer, wine, and signature sweets.

116 Amherst SE, Albuquerque 505-919-8022, www. noshnobhill.com

5901 Wyoming NE, Albuquerque 505-821-1909, www.5starburgers.com

A delicatessen and bakery featuring authentic Jewish dishes with a modern twist made fresh and from scratch daily. Open for breakfast and lunch.

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley region. Join us at La Merienda, Wed-Sat 6-9pm, by reservation only.

1828 Central SW, Albuquerque, 505-842-5507 www.vinaigretteonline.com

8917 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-503-7124, www.farmandtablenm.com

2031 Mountain NW, Albuquerque 505-766-5100, www.seasonsabq.com

Our salad-centric philosophy focuses on bold flavor combinations and savory proteins to compliment a huge variety of organic greens.

A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm.

Oak fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining Old Town has to offer!

3009 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-254-9462, www.zincabq.com

4803 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque 505-344-9297, www.lospoblanos.com







no initiation fees | new members receive free personal training orientation 505.884.8012 | 2401 Jefferson NE Albuquerque, NM 87110


3109 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-268-9250, www.yannisandlemoni.com

10601 Montgomery NE, Albuquerque 505-294-9463, www.savoyabq.com

4003 Carlisle NE, Albuquerque 505-884-3625, www.nmpiecompany.com

Yanni’s and Lemoni Lounge, located in Nob Hill for twenty years, serve the freshest seafood, steaks, chops, pasta, gourmet pizza, and homemade desserts.

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms. Wine tastings and happy hour.

New Mexico Pie Company creates handmade sweet and savory pies with an emphasis on simple, pure flavors and premium ingredients. Life is short. Eat pie.


3423 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-255-8226, www.zacatecastacos.com Zacatecas features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. Zacatecas is a real taqueria.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795, theshopbreakfastandlunch.com

5 Thomas, Los Lunas 505-866-1936, www.greenhousebistro.com

Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.

Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living.


604 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-983-8977, www.5starburgers.com

1814 Second Street, Santa Fe 505-982-3030, www.secondstreetbrewery.com

125 East Palace, Santa Fe 505-988-5232, www.lacasasena.com

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

Second Street offers a welcoming, friendly environment where you can enjoy handcrafted beer and delicious food. Gluten-intolerant friends can enjoy gluten-removed handcrafted Kolsch and IPA.

A local favorite for over thirty years! Chef Gharrity features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list.

1005 S St Francis, Santa Fe 505-780-5483, www.omiragrill.com

1607 Paseo De Peralta, Santa Fe 505-989-3278, www.secondstreetbrewery.com

Terra combines a sense of place, local farm-fresh ingredients, and New Mexican culinary traditions, with chef Andrew Cooper at the helm.

A Brazilian steak house known for its culinary excellence and internationally inspired dishes. We use only locally raised, hand-cut New Mexico beef, lamb, and pork.

Located near the Railrunner train depot, Second Street Railyard offers comfortable atmosphere, good food and delicious micro brewed beer. Now brewing gluten-removed Kolsch and IPA.

505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-780-5073, www.talinmarket.com

95 W Marcy, Santa Fe 505-984-1091, www.ilpiattosantafe.com

112 West San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-983-7445, santafeculinaryacademy.com

Talin T-Bar Traditional flavors Made quickly and with love Ramen. Monday: Dumplings!

A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list.

The Guesthouse is a student workshop and showcase through the SFCA. The menu reflects the curriculum and changes regularly to embrace local, seasonal products. Reservations recommended.

815 Early, Santa Fe 505-989-1288, www.rasajuice.com

401 S Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-988-1111, www.swissbakerysantafe.com

An organic juice bar and cafĂŠ committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, cold pressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs.

Enjoy our delectable croissant and Danish prepared fresh daily or our bistro menu for lunch and dinner with a selection from our wine bar.

198 State Road 592, Santa Fe 877-262-4666, www.fourseasons.com/santafe

709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, 505-820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com Our salad-centric philosophy focuses on bold flavor combinations and savory proteins to compliment a huge variety of organic greens.




L’OLIVIER 229 Galisteo, Santa Fe 505-989-1919, www.loliviersantafe.com Chef Xavier Grenet creates elegant and refreshing cuisine combining classic French culinary techniques with Southwestern flavors and ingredients.

414 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-955-0765, www.riochamasteakhouse.com Serving the finest prime and choice chops, dry-aged steaks, and seafood. Chef Tony Blankenship's philosophy is “real food, natural ingredients.” Our wine list features more than 800 labels and 20 wines by the glass.

653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-982-4353, www.compoundrestaurant.com The Compound Restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Chef Mark Kiffin continues to preserve a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution.


901 W San Mateo, Santa Fe 505-820-3121, www.midtownbistrosf.com Midtown bistro, featuring Executive Chef Angel Estrada, offers Santa Fe gourmet fine dining with a Southwest flair.

1494 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-983-1411, www.mudunoodles.com Seasonal Pan Asian cuisine featuring organic and natural meats, accommodating a wide range of dietary preferences; a beloved Santa Fe institution for seventeen years.


A little slice of Tuscany in Santa Fe. Enjoy italian comfort food, gelato, espresso, wine, and beer all day long on our beautiful sidewalk patio.

500 Sandoval, Santa Fe 505-466-1391, www.cafecafesantafe.com Innovative. Creative. Inspired. Gracious. Our cuisine is traditional Italian fare with hints of Southwestern influences.


20 Buffalo Thunder, Santa Fe 505-819-2056, www.buffalothunderresort.com Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list.

304 Johnson, Santa Fe 505-989-1166, www.terracottawinebistro.com A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, valued-priced wine list.


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228 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-989-1904, www.mangiamopronto.com

Creative Casual Cuisine ediblesantafe.com/feast


www.ediblesantafe.com/feast 68

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com

1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos 575-758-8484, www.5starburgers.com

Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-wining wine list.

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

edible Launch Party

Saturday, August 16, 1:30pm - 3:30pm @ the Luna Center in Santa Fe Join us in Santa Fe and come celebrate our late summer issue.

Food, drink, and scavenger hunt!

FREE to attend!

Seating limited, must RSVP by August 15.

www.ediblesantafe.com/launch TAOS

1405 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-LOVE, farmhousecafeandbakery.com

123 Bent Street, Taos 575-758-1009, www.ambertsoftaos.com

124 F Bent Street, Taos 575-758-0606

Organic and local baked goods, breakfast, lunch, and dinner on a beautiful patio overlooking our on-site garden. Farm-to-table dining featuring beef, bison, vegetarian, and vegan entrees.

Lambert’s strives to create a sanctuary for our guests, where they will enjoy delicious food, wine, and cocktails in a relaxed, yet refined, atmosphere.

THE BEST COFFEE IN TAOS! Fair trade, organic espresso, chai frappes, smoothies, gelato, and pastries. Featuring the only ROCKBAR ever! Come on in and drop a rock in YOUR drink!


103 East Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-8866, www.thegorgebarandgrill.com

125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-1977, www.taosinn.com

Our menu is straightforward yet eclectic, and Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. chock full of favorites made from scratch using as Patio dining, fresh local foods, award-wining wines, many fresh and local ingredients as possible. and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos.

908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 www.taosdinner.com Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.



edible DC

Celebrating the Local Food Culture of the Capitol Region, Season by Season

Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communtiies


Celebrating the Pleasure of Local Food and Beverage


Issue 19 | March–April 2013 $5.95


Empress of Herbs The Buzz on Bees Issue 19 | March-April 2013

Attitudes: A Barrier to Buying Local

edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 25 • Summer 2014

Javier Plascencia | Organic Beer | Smit Farms | No-dirt Gardening Tulloch Farms | Crime in the Fields | Native Plant Gardening

edible Toronto Member of Edible Communities



edible TULSA

Inspired | Informative | Influential

Spring’s Bean Sprung! Overindulge in Asparagus while the Local Pickings are Good Romance the Palate, Latin American Style Taste Prince Edward County Resurrect Tradition


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014

Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communities

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Each day during the month of AUGUST, select restaurants in ALBUQUERQUE and the surrounding area will prepare a special, prix-fixe dinner, or entree featuring sixty percent or more local ingredients. For a complete listing of where to dine, menus, and participating farms visit www.ediblesantafe.com/feast. COMING TO SANTA FE AND TAOS OCTOBER 2014! 72


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edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2014


The is a celebration of premier dining destinations and the bounty of seasonal ingredients grown in New Mexico.

PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS: • Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria • Artichoke Café • • Blades’ Bistro • Bocadillos • • Café Bien • Café Lush • Cocina Azul • Elaine‘s • • Farm & Table • Forque Kitchen & Bar • • Green House Bistro & Bakery • • Hartford Square • La Merienda at Los Poblanos • • M’Tucci’s Kitchina • • Nosh Jewish Delicatessen & Bakery • • Prairie Star • Savoy Bar & Grill • • Seasons Rotisserie & Grill • • The Grove Café & Market • Torino’s @ Home • • TFK Smokehouse • The Shop Breakfast & Lunch • • Vinaigrette • Yanni’s & Lemoni Lounge • • Zinc Wine Bar & Bistro •

it’s closer than you think.. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.

OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com

HISTORIC NOB HILL 505.254.ZINC(9462) www.zincabq.com

ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS 505.294.WINE(9463) www.savoyabq.com

Amyo Farms in Bosque Farms and Albuquerque, NM.

ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com

. .truly local.



20 14

. . . all at THE SANTA FE OPERA

Mark Nohl photo










Kate Russell photo





Huang Ruo

AN INCREDIBLE SETTING Arrive early with a tailgate supper to enjoy a spectacular sunset and mountain views. Tickets start at $32! New Mexico Residents: Ask about a special first-time offer when you call. SantaFeOpera.org


855-674-5401 www.fourseasons.com/santafe

I 505-986-5900 I 800-280-4654

Ask our partners about a special offer for Opera guests.

800-955-4455 www.eldoradohotel.com

800-727-5531 www.innatloretto.com

855-278-5276 www.laposadadesantafe.com

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