Early Summer 2019: Travel

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NEW MEXICO THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO

Travel

ISSUE 62 · EARLY SUMMER • JUNE / JULY 2019

®

NEW LOCATION: 505 CERRILLOS, SANTA FE AT THE LUNA CENTER

radi sh an dr ye.c o m 5 05 .9 3 0 .5 3 25

photos: doug merriam

FA RM I N SPI RED CUISINE

ROASTERY | TASTING ROOM | COFFEE BAR

Agua es Vida café es amor

1208 RIO GRANDE BLVD NW, ALBUQUERQUE • CUTBOWCOFFEE.COM • OPEN DAILY UNTIL 3PM

THE TRAVEL ISSUE: JUNE / JULY DEPARTMENTS 2

GRIST FOR THE MILL

58 EIGHT AROUND THE STATE Tacos by Stephanie and Walt Cameron

By Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook

91 SOURCE GUIDE / EAT LOCAL GUIDE

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CONTRIBUTORS

96 #EDIBLENM

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LOCAL HEROES

FEATURES

Black Bird Saloon, Dr. Field Goods Kitchen and Butcher Shop, Campo at Los Poblanos, and Rancho Gallina

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FOR THE DOGS

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AT THE CHEF'S TABLE

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WILD THING

Catering to Canines by Joanna Manganaro Toto Taking the Long Way Home by Liz Maliga The Magical Adventure of Hunting Wild Turkeys

by Katie DeLorenzo

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COOKING FRESH

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FORAGED

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WORTH THE TRIP

The Road Less Travelled by Satsunderta aka Sunny Khalsa and Stephanie Cameron Double Yarrow Bitters by Ellen Zachos

ON THE COVER

edible

NEW MEXICO

®

THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD, SEASON BY SEASON IN NEW MEXICO

64 SAFE HAVENS

For African American Motorists in Jim Crow America, the Green Book was their Bible by Frank Norris

68 SOUL FOOD

Down to Earth in the Española Valley

by Briana Olson

72 48 HOURS IN EL PASO AND JUÁREZ A Culinary View of the Southern Border

by Michael Dax

Travel

ISSUE 62 · EARLY SUMMER • JUNE / JULY 2019

Prickly Pear Margarita at White Sands National Monument. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

78 THE JOURNEY TO ARDOVINO'S

A @TravelNewMexico Photo Essay by Stephanie Cameron, Caitlin Jenkins, and Amy Tishler

85 DISCOVERING ARDOVINO'S DESERT CROSSING An Extraordinarily Original Oasis by Gabriella Marks

Retreat Yourself by Candolin Cook WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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GRIST FOR THE MILL PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC

For several years now, we have dedicated an issue of edible to the open road and the unique eating opportunities it affords. We pack the pages with travel itineraries, insider tips, and transportive storytelling, all with the food lover in mind. This year, we travel both near and far, from Las Vegas to Juárez, from the outskirts of Taos to the rims of the Grand Canyon, to offer a fresh look at old haunts and discover hidden gems along the way.

In Española, a town too often overlooked by passersby, we find a thriving art scene enriched by the area’s vibrant history, religiosity, and car culture. We also indulge in deeply rooted, soulful food like none other in the state. We take to the borderlands, from Sunland Park to El Paso to Ciudad Juárez, to see what the food there might teach us about a region currently spotlighted by sensationalist headlines and national debates on immigration—and the direction of our nation itself. With Frank Norris’s important history of the Green Book in New Mexico, we remember and celebrate the courage of African American travelers and diners who had limited options along New Mexico roadsides in our not-so-distant past.

Whether the travelers in these stories are seeking pleasure or pilgrimage, adventure or opportunity, their freedom to move across borders—geographic, cultural, or culinary—encourages understanding and, ideally, enriches the human experience. We hope your own travels this summer are enlightening, fulfilling, and, of course, delicious.

Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook

COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Briana Olson

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTO EDITOR Stephanie Cameron

EVENT COORDINATOR Natalie Donnelly

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER Joshua Hinte

VIDEO PRODUCER Walt Cameron

SALES AND MARKETING Kate Collins, Melinda Esquibel, and Gina Riccobono

CONTACT US Mailing Address:

Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook, Editors

3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblenm.com www.ediblenm.com

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

505-375-1329 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLENM.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible New Mexico six times a year.

We distribute throughout New Mexico and nationally by subscription.

Subscriptions are $32 annually.

Printed at Courier Graphics Corporation Phoenix, Arizona No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2019 All rights reserved.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

FOOD. FARM. FESTIVAL.

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CONTRIBUTORS STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible in their backyard. Today Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico.

WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton is editor of edible New Mexico.

He recently completed his PhD in history at the University of New Mexico, with a dissertation examining the cultural history of twentieth-century agriculture in the Southwest. He owns and manages Leafwater Farm, a small vegetable farm in northern New Mexico.

CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral candidate at the University of New Mexico, an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review, and editor of edible New Mexico. On Saturdays, you can find her selling Vida Verde Farm produce at Albuquerque's Downtown Growers' Market. Follow her farm life on Instagram @vidaverdefarmabq and @candolin MICHAEL J. DAX Michael J. Dax lives in Santa Fe and writes about environment and culture in the American West.

He is the author of Grizzly West: A Failed Attempt to Reintroduce Grizzly Bears in the Mountain West (2015).

KATIE DELORENZO Katie Delorenzo is a conservationist, passionate hunter, aspiring home cook, and the Southwest chapter coordinator for Backcountry Hunters & Anglers, a nonprofit supporting wild public lands, waters, and wildlife. From hosting ladies nights at her local archery shop to helping novices harvest their first big game animal, her free time is spent mentoring new hunters and sharing the gospel of an outdoor lifestyle.

SUNNY KHALSA Sunny Khalsa grew up in New Mexico and northern India. She has worked around the world as a freelance photographer and model. Khalsa recently returned to the Southwest to manage El Sagrado Farm in southern Colorado, where she trains horses and takes people on spiritual horse adventures.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

LIZ MALIGA Liz Maliga is a freelance writer in Socorro. She earned a master's in English from the University of Maine and teaches writing at CNM and New Mexico Tech.

Her writing focuses on food, popular culture, and points where the two intersect.

JOANNA MANGANARO TOTO Joanna Manganaro Toto is a freelance writer and designer of the jewelry line, Sonámbulo. Before returning to her home state of New Mexico in 2014, she worked in fashion in New York City for many years. She is thrilled to be back! In her spare time, Joanna loves scouring estate sales and thrift stores with her husband, uncovering exciting vintage finds. Follow her on Instagram via @howdycimarron.

GABRIELLA MARKS Gabriella Marks is a Santa Fe–based shooter, writer, and eater of food with passionate loyalty and gratitude for her local farmers, chefs, and eating companions.

FRANK NORRIS Frank Norris is an historian with the National Park Service, where his office helps administer the Route 66 Corridor Preservation Program.

BRIANA OLSON Briana Olson is a freelance writer and copy editor, and lead editor for the New Farmer’s Almanac, a miscellany of writings and art by farmers, ecologists, and other land-loving types. She enjoys long mountain walks, taking risks in the kitchen, and seeking out new and interesting things to eat, from Bangkok to Albuquerque. @TRAVELNEWMEXICO The travel platform @travelnewmexico was created in May 2015 and documents New Mexico road trips by offering guest instagrammers the chance to do a “take over” of the account, during which time they share their unique New Mexico road trip experiences through imagery and stories.

ELLEN ZACHOS Ellen Zachos is the author of seven books, including The Wildcrafted Cocktail and Backyard Foraging: 65 Familiar Plants You Didn’t Know You Could Eat. She also works with RemyUSA, teaching foraged mixology workshops across the US for The Botanist gin. Zachos shares recipes and tips about foraging at backyardforager.com.

A VITRA DESIGN MUSEUM EXHIBITION THROUGH OCTOBER 2 7 A Designer’s Universe is the first major retrospective on the work of Alexander Girard, a pioneer of modern design who lived and worked in Santa Fe for 40 years.

The exhibition will immerse viewers in a rich selection of sketches, drawings, sculptures, furniture, designed environments — and the textiles for which Girard is best known.

On Museum Hill in Santa Fe www.InternationalFolkArt.org (505) 476-1200

Global Sponsors:

Exhibition global sponsors are Herman Miller and Maharam. The Museum of International Folk Art’s presentation of Alexander Girard: A Designer’s Universe is generously supported by the International Folk Art Foundation, the Folk Art Committee of the Friends of Folk Art, the Museum of New Mexico Foundation and numerous donors to the Girard Campaign and the Exhibition Development Fund. ABOVE: Old Sun (detail), Environmental Enrichment Panel #3015, Alexander Girard for Herman Miller, 1971. Vitra Design Museum, Alexander Girard Estate.

LOCAL HEROES An edible Local Hero is an exceptional individual, business, or organization making a positive impact on New Mexico's food systems. These honorees nurture our communities through food, service, and socially and environmentally sustainable business practices. Edible New Mexico readers nominate and vote for their favorite local chefs, growers, artisans, advocates, and other food professionals in two dozen categories—including this year's new Innovator award. In each issue of edible, we feature interviews with a handful of the winners, allowing us to get better acquainted with them and the important work they do. Please join us in thanking these Local Heroes for being at the forefront of New Mexico's local food movement.

Black Bird Saloon AN INTERVIEW WITH PATRICK AND KELLY TORRES, OWNERS BEST RESTAURANT, GREATER NEW MEXICO Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Top left, clockwise: Crow's Nest Fries, Rogue Cowboy, The Monte Carlo. The potbelly stove keeps the Black Bird Saloon warm in the winter.

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WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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Kelly and Patrick Torres.

Kelly and Patrick Torres are best friends, wife and husband, creative partners, and owners of the Black Bird Saloon in Los Cerrillos. They think of themselves as modern day pioneers, living and working in an adobe saloon building built in the late 1880s, which they turned into a popular restaurant in 2017. Kelly cooks and creates most of Black Bird Saloon’s menu, and Patrick runs the front of house.

How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work?

We dreamed of working for ourselves. We both had spent many years in the food service industry, which gave us a good platform of experience and knowledge of exactly what it takes to run a successful food establishment. Both of our previous positions in restaurants were always in the front of house. However, Kelly’s personality fits well in the back of house; she enjoys food, ingredients, and being creative.

Patrick is strong in operations and running the business side of it, plus he enjoys the social part of hospitality.

We desired something small in scale, unique in space and experience, and something you might find in Old World Europe. Our concept would include counter service and our menu would be displayed on a chalkboard. We are big fans of craft beer and wine so we would offer both on tap. Our food offerings would be simple, honest, and sourced locally, when possible. We would provide a menu that we knew how 8

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to do well and feature some flavors from our own childhood. Our goal was to find a live-work setting also.

But when and where would be the right time and place for us to begin? Those discussions happened for several years. In 2014, the timing must have been right because Los Cerrillos just kind of showed up.

We both instantly knew that this was it and saw something that we believed in. We followed our intuitions and made it happen!

What is your food philosophy?

We wouldn’t give our guests anything we wouldn’t eat or drink ourselves. We make what we know and have tried to perfect over the seventeen years we’ve been cooking together. We don’t try to be something we’re not. What you see is what you get. We keep our ingredients simple and fresh, while trying to source locally and organically, and we are committed to keeping our standards high and affordable as there aren’t currently a lot of options for food in Los Cerrillos. It is also satisfying to offer things that may not be the norm in this area.

Black Bird offers meats not readily available in other local restaurants—elk, venison, rabbit, bison. Tell us a bit about your sourcing and your favorite dishes using these ingredients.

Kelly: When I was visualizing our restaurant concept, I took myself back to another time where I imagined that Native Americans and settlers or

miners may have hunted for their primary source of food. I always felt strongly about incorporating a few game meats (which I love myself) into our menu. It seemed to fit the saloon-like atmosphere. The meats are high quality, farm raised, and sourced from all around North America. It works for us and I am pleasantly surprised each week how well our Trail Blazer Elk Burger sells. I am a fan of all things sausage, so I try to offer a few unique ones on our menu.

Patrick: One of my favorite dishes on our menu is the Sausage Duel—one venison sausage along with one herbed rabbit sausage, served with a side of dijon and our house-made blueberry mustard.

What has Black Bird meant for the town of Los Cerrillos?

It’s hard to speak for others in our community, but I hope that we have brought something good here. We like to say that we didn’t want to change anything about the village but rather hoped to enhance what already existed. Thursday nights at the Black Bird have turned out to be somewhat of a locals night where they enjoy food and drink and catching up. Some say that they may not have ever come across a conversation with one another had we not opened.

That says a lot to us.

SUNDAY BRUNCH IS SERVED! Every Sunday 9am - 2:30pm

What else should visitors do in Los Cerrillos?

Other local businesses exist here, such as art galleries and a mining museum with petting zoo. The [Cerrillos Hills] State Park has five miles of trails in our little hills for hiking and biking. They also provide information on the turquoise mines at the park’s visitors center. If you enjoy horseback riding, then check out The Broken Saddle, which offers guided tours and sunset rides. Sometimes, just taking a stroll through town is a nice way to take it all in, plus many of the buildings have historical markers. In addition, there are annual events like the Cerrillos Fiestas, a Local Yard Sale, Art in The Park, and history tours. Check cerrillosnewmexico.com.

1512 Pacheco Street · Santa Fe sweetwatersf.com · 505.795.7383

What does being selected as a Local Hero mean to you?

It’s an honor to be an edible Local Hero. When we set out to open the Black Bird Saloon, we wanted to open a restaurant that reflected our passion for good, quality food and drink. We focused on making it a locals place where people wanted to come and feel special. We didn’t even consider receiving any accolades. It is heartwarming and humbling to be noticed in such a way. It is an incredible feeling to share the stage with so many other great honorees on the list this year. Thank you.

Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers?

This spring we are looking forward to starting our first hive of honey bees, something that we’ve been working toward for many years.

We hope to have a healthy, happy, successful hive as they are so valuable to our lives. We also have a three-quarter-acre piece of land behind the restaurant that we have been developing for a garden and orchard. Slowly we have been introducing what we grow into our menu. We would like to get to a point where we can supplement what we buy with what we grow in our garden and orchard.

28 Main Street, Los Cerrillos, 505-438-1821, blackbirdsaloon.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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LOCAL HEROES

Dr. Field Goods Kitchen and Butcher Shop AN INTERVIEW WITH JOSH GERWIN, CHEF/OWNER BEST GASTROPUB Photos by Douglas Merriam

Left: Josh Gerwin of Dr. Field Goods. Right: Dr. Field Goods' Pizza Margherita.

Diners enjoy a true taste of New Mexico at Dr. Field Goods Kitchen and Butcher Shop, where recipes are made from scratch using local and sustainable products, as much as possible. Owner/chef Josh Gerwin says over the past six years he has worked diligently to create relationships with New Mexico farmers and ranchers because supporting local is inherent to Dr. Field Goods’ business model and permeates everything they do.

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How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work?

I got here by working hard for other people and then for myself. For as long as I can remember, I always wanted to be a chef. As a kid, instead of Saturday morning cartoons, I was watching shows like Yan Can Cook, The Galloping Gourmet, and Julia Child. I went to culinary school at the New England Culinary Academy and graduated at the

1301 Cerrillos Rd ■ Santa Fe, NM 87505 ■ (505) 557-6654 ■ www.galleryethnica.com

Left: Bad Ass BLT with bacon patty. Right: Dr. Field Goods' signature sandwich, the New Mexican with pulled pork.

top of my class. When I was working hard for other amazing chefs, I learned as much as I could to refine my craft. I then started my own food truck, and that evolved into the restaurant. My next dream became a reality in 2015, when we opened the Butcher Shop. How I got to where I am today was through this evolution. I always wanted to make people happy with what I made for them and was always striving to be better at it myself. I’m inspired all the time by other chefs as well as family and friends who love to cook (and eat), and from my travels.

I’m always open to learning new things.

What is a local food issue that is important to you?

Not enough food for those who go hungry and, conversely, too much food waste. Of course these issues are not just local, they are global.

What is your food philosophy?

The fresher the better. It’s important to know where your food is coming from. Whether it is from a farm next door or a farm hundreds of miles away affects its freshness. Knowing how the food was produced is also very important. I don’t prepare or serve any highly processed foods. You can tell the difference when you’re eating clean. It just feels better.

What are you excited about in the culinary world right now?

Chef-led sustainability efforts. It’s exciting to see chefs influencing sustainable food trends.

What’s a Dr. Field Goods dish you never get tired of?

OMG, that is so hard to answer! Of course, the pizzas. We make our own dough, sauce, and we even pull our own mozzarella, topped with sausage from our butcher shop and other fresh ingredients. Who could get tired of that? And let’s not forget about the hand-built, cooked-toorder enchiladas. They are amazing. Our signature sandwiches, the New Mexican and the Cubano, always bring a smile to my face because they taste so good every time! My wife dreams about the Cubano.

What are you most proud of professionally?

Professionally, I am proud of what I have built at DFG Kitchen and Butcher Shop along with my amazing staff. I had a vision and went for it. I knew it was something that people in the community wanted and they seem to appreciate it. It’s special when people thank you for what you are doing. It makes you feel good. Personally, I am proud of my family—both my home family and my restaurant family, who are right there with me, helping me and lifting me up when this business gets me down—and helping me celebrate the good times.

What would you like to try next?

Not sure right now, just keep focusing on DFG. Maybe expand at bit in the future and continue to support the local communities. Maybe travel more. Keep in touch and I will let you know when I figure it out.

2860 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-471-0043, drfieldgoods.com

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celebrate dad celebrate summer at

MODERN SOUTHWESTERN CUISINE LUNCH | DINNER | SUNDAY BRUNCH

live music on the patio every Friday & Saturday evening store gifts/accessories/baby 4022c rio grande blvd nw sarabandehome.com 505-344-1253

a bed and breakfast with a modern twist 5637 rio grande blvd nw sarabandebnb.com 505-348-5593

F I F T H F LO OR R O O F TO P BAR

best sunset views in Santa Fe

LIVE MUSIC HAPPY HOUR DAILY SPECIALS

Our award winning patio is open!

See our website for special dinners, events and reservations.

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Tues-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

ELOISASANTAFE.COM | BARALTOSANTAFE.COM 505.982.0883 | 228 E PALACE AVE

LOCAL HEROES

Campo at Los Poblanos AN INTERVIEW WITH JONATHAN PERNO, EXECUTIVE CHEF BEST RESTAURANT, ALBUQUERQUE

Executive Chef Jonathan Perno in the exhibition kitchen at Campo. Photo by Alicia Lucia Photography.

Los Poblanos is located on an organic farm in the heart of New Mexico’s Rio Grande valley. A model of preservation and sustainability, the farm's vision helps shape the daily menu at Los Poblanos' restaurant, Campo, and the handcrafted line of artisanal products sold at the Los Poblanos Farm Shop. The restaurant’s Rio Grande cuisine is rooted in seasonal organic ingredients from its own harvest as well as provisions sourced from long-standing relationships with local farmers and herdsmen. Campo’s cuisine wanders the line between refined and rugged, borrowing from both haute cuisine and the foods indigenous to our watershed.

How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work?

I am a native New Mexican. I moved to San Francisco in 1989 to go to culinary school, and I used the city as a hub to go to work in other 14

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states and countries to learn my craft. In 2003, I moved back to New Mexico to settle down a bit and invest in my home state, intent on being an advocate for local producers and their products. After some time at Scalo, I was introduced to [Los Poblanos Executive Director] Matt Rembe by a mutual friend. I accepted the [executive] chef position in 2007 and I have not looked back.

How does the Los Poblanos property inspire you?

Los Poblanos inspires me every day in one way or another. This place is very special, it has an energy about it. I believe that is because there has been so much creative influence on the property and it keeps evolving. I am part of that evolution of this space, as well as the evolution of my team. As one of my cooks has said, we are now part of the history of Los Poblanos.

Left: Chilled Beet Soup with Campo Margarita. Right: Cochinita Ravioli and Ash-Roasted Vegetable Tostada. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.

What is a local food issue that is important to you? Why? More local restaurants supporting local producers. We can create a sustainable food economy when we support one another.

Why did you decide to have an open kitchen at Campo?

At Los Poblanos we are all about process, and the open kitchen allows us to share that with our guests. Often our servers will invite diners to walk through the kitchen, which gives them a behind-the-scenes look and creates a memorable dining experience.

Campo offers a Chef ’s Table. Will you tell us a bit about this dining experience and what inspired it?

It gives guests a fully immersive experience—they dine at a communal style table that overlooks the active kitchen. The chefs interact with the guests and tell stories from the kitchen’s perspective, which is often a different view than the servers provide. Both narratives are great, but most cooks don’t get the opportunity to share the kitchen perspective directly with guests, and that is really special. Often, good questions can come from that interaction, and it becomes an opportunity to educate the public about all that New Mexico has to offer.

What are you excited by in the culinary world right now?

The number of businesses that are embracing this way of working and educating the public about local food just keeps growing. It truly 16

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helps us to take care of our community and gives us all a greater respect for the people doing incredible, important work in our state.

Watching this movement grow, not just in New Mexico but in other states, is really exciting.

What would you like to try next at Campo?

We are working on so many things to enhance and improve the culinary program at Los Poblanos. We have a great team which means ideas come very organically, as do the research and the practical efforts necessary to implement those ideas. One specific example of growth is the expansion of our meat program. We have moved one of our chefs into a dedicated butcher role and are refining practices to offer new products across the property, including the Farm Shop counter [which sells sandwiches, fresh baked bread, pastries, and other offerings made at Campo]. We are still growing and looking forward to hitting our stride, but right now we keep pushing forward and evolving because the ideas keep coming.

Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers?

Support the locals. In partnering with local purveyors, we are able to showcase the efforts of our community through the food at Los Poblanos and share their efforts and stories with our guests, who visit from all over the world.

4803 Rio Grande NW, Los Ranchos De Albuquerque, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

A TASTE OF AUTHENTICITY COBB SALAD, WELL DRESSED SINCE 1922

a creative take on classic cuisine 100 E. SAN FRANCISCO STREET, SANTA FE 505.995.2334 | LAFONDASANTAFE.COM OPEN DAILY 7AM-10PM

LOCAL HEROES

Rancho Gallina

AN INTERVIEW WITH LESLIE MOODY AND MITCH ACKERMAN, OWNERS INNOVATOR Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Blue corn crepe filled with prosciutto and gruyère, topped with egg and red chile.

Rancho Gallina is a proudly green inn and retreat center just off the Turquoise Trail, providing farm-fresh food in a relaxing and authentic rural setting just minutes from Santa Fe, Cerrillos, and Madrid. Leslie Moody and Mitch Ackerman are the inn’s proprietors, ranch hands, cooks, and chicken whisperers.

How did you get to where you are now? What’s the backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work?

We met as union organizers in Denver in the mid-nineties. It was intense work in a then very conservative state. We were both elected to leadership positions young, and together helped shift the political climate in the state and raise the standard of living for thousands of Coloradans. We built a close-knit community around our home and family, hosting countless happy hours, working dinners, and traveling colleagues. Food and drink was always a critical part of building our movement, and key to maintaining our health, family, and sanity while working incredibly stressful jobs.

By 2012, we had been “promoted” to roles in Washington, DC, our kids had grown, and we were in dire need of a change. One night 18

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after hosting an elaborate dinner party, a dear friend pulled us aside and said, “You guys, this is your secret superpower!” We laughed, but when we later took stock of what we were good at and what excited us, we came up with a few shared loves: food, cooking, people, travel, social justice, and the Southwest (New Mexico was our go-to getaway from Denver).

We were lucky to find a great spot with a rich history stretching from the San Marcos Pueblo to artists and horse breeders. After lots of work and digging deep into our savings, we launched Rancho Gallina in 2014. We welcome travelers from all walks of life, but our history allows us to regularly host those who organize for positive change, both for group retreats or a well-earned break.

Tell us a bit about how Rancho Gallina engages in environmentally friendly business practices.

It’s core to our DNA. We undertook the renovation of an old, sprawling property, built by ranchers and artists, with the aim of minimizing our carbon footprint and honoring the high-desert landscape.

experience the patio at the anasazi New Alfresco Menu prepared

by Executive Chef Peter O’Brien Breakfast 7:00 to 10:30am Lunch 11:30 to 2:30pm Bar Menu 11:30 to 11:00pm Dinner 5:30 to 10:00pm

UPCOMING EVENTS June 2 – 9 NMCC Culinary Restaurant Week Featuring Lobster Tacos $28 paired with Codigo Rosa – La Rosa Cocktail $16 June 27 MUGA Wine Dinner Reception 6:00pm Dinner 6:30pm $275 per person inclusive

ROSEWOOD INN OF THE ANASAZI 113 WASHINGTON AVENUE | SANTA FE, NM 87501 | (505)988-3030 Contemporary Southwestern Cuisine inspired by locally sourced seasonal ingredients.

Dining Room · Bar · Patio · Live Entertainment · Private Dining For reservations please call (505) 988-3236

A NA SAZ I RESTAURANT BAR & LOUNGE

Left: Leslie Moody and Mitch Ackerman. Right: Kitchen at Rancho Gallina.

We installed fifty-four solar panels, three geothermal heating/cooling systems, rain catchment, greywater, water-saving everything, LED and solar lighting, and electric car chargers. We conserve, reuse, recycle, and compost. We even haul buckets of wash water out to the yard all summer. We’ve built relationships with local organic farmers.

And of course there’s the gallinas––our chickens are the stars of our breakfast crew and composting program.

What is a local food issue that is important to you? Why? Access to clean water and affordable farmland is critical to our culture and our local food supply. The changing climate will present tremendous challenges that the next generation of farmers must confront to maintain our amazing local food tradition.

New Mexico’s farm culture is so inspiring and unique, but we must protect our precious water supply from abuse and contamination if we want to make sure we have viable, local alternatives to industrial agriculture.

Tell us about Rancho Gallina’s food program.

We serve what we call New Mexiterranean cuisine. Mitch trained in classic French cuisine, Leslie’s grandma hailed from Spain, and we add Moroccan, Italian, Middle Eastern, and of course do everything with a New Mexican flair (i.e., lots of local chile). Breakfast is our staple, but we cater family events and host retreats where we cook three meals a day.

Virtually all our food is organic and as local as possible––this is a core value. We feel it’s as important to transition the world’s diet away from industrial/chemical agriculture as it is to transition from fossil fuels. Plus local, seasonal, and organic just tastes better. We have had an especially close relationship with Green Tractor Farm, a mere eight miles down the road and true local heroes.

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We’ve collaborated with a number of restaurants and food organizations on pop-ups and events. We’ve catered dinners with Opuntia and Squash Blossom, and last year the Street Food Institute catered more than half the weddings at the ranch. We’re looking forward to hosting edible’s spring pop-up in May! Where do you recommend guests go out to eat?

The Black Bird Saloon, Opuntia, Dr. Field Goods, The Kitchen, The Hollar, Fire & Hops, and for great local music, the Mine Shaft and Beer Creek. For traditional New Mexican: La Choza and Casa Chimayó, or the San Marcos Café right around the corner! For beverages: Iconik, of course, and we love Tumbleroot’s tiny tap room on Bisbee Court.

What do you love about living in Cerrillos?

Officially, we’re in unincorporated Santa Fe County––we call it Baja Santa Fe. It’s funky and arty and very down to earth; it’s authentic and gritty, a welcome contrast to the sometimes over-polished tourist scene. It’s got [musician] Joe West’s Theater of Death (Joe’s greatuncle built our place), and two movie ranches, putting us in the heart of Tamalewood. It’s the real deal.

What’s next?

We’ve enjoyed hosting traveling musicians last year, both for gigs in town and music writing retreats. We are planning to host house concerts and open to more community gatherings this year. The ranch was a home to artists for years, and we want to build on that legacy.

Is there anything else you'd like to share with edible readers?

Only that we sometimes book far in advance. We’d love to host your family, event or retreat, but just let us know as soon as you can!

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Spotlight on pups

Dog Restaurant Week Dine with your dog for a good cause.

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ummer is the perfect season to chill out with refreshing food and drink, especially when our pups can stay cool along with us. From July 22 to 28, you can bring your pooch to a local patio and treat them to a fantastic summertime feast, thanks to Dog Restaurant Week. The fido-friendly menu includes options like pupsicles made of frozen bone broth, turkey and veggie patties, beef sliders and truffle treats.

While on the patio with your pup, you can cool off with a special cocktail for humans and a portion of the proceeds will go towards animal nonprofits. All of this is made possible by Vodka for Dog People, a program of Tito’s Handmade Vodka, which works to better the lives of pets and their families far and wide.

After its initial debut in Austin last year, Dog Restaurant Week is expanding to Nashville, Louisville, Santa Fe and Albuquerque, as well. Visit ediblenm.com to find the list of local eateries participating in Dog Restaurant Week, along with recipes for the fido-friendly dishes.

Visit titosvodka.com/dogs for more information on Vodka for Dog People.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

TURKEY BURGERS FOR FIDO Recipe credit to Dragonfly Dog Bowl

Tito’s Handmade Vodka IS THE

1 pound ground turkey, cooked 1/3 cup mashed sweet potatoes, cooked 1 cup brown rice, cooked 1/2 cup steamed, shredded kale 1/2 cup green beans, chopped 1/2 cup unsweetened cranberries, chopped Combine the green beans and cranberries in blender or food processor, and blend well.

Add the remaining ingredients and pulse briefly to mix them together.

Measure out 1⁄4 cup of the mixture and form small patties.

Recipe notes The green beans in this recipe can be either raw or cooked.

BEEF SLIDERS FOR PUPS

Recipe credit to Dragonfly Dog Bowl

Bettering the lives of pets and their families far and wide

1 pound ground beef, cooked 1 1/2 cups pearled barley, cooked 1/2 cup unsweetened applesauce 1 cup green beans, chopped Combine all the ingredients in blender or food processor, and pulse briefly to mix them together.

Measure out 1/4 cup of the mixture and form small patties.

Recipe notes The green beans in this recipe can be either raw or cooked.

PUMPKIN TRUFFLES FOR PUPS Recipe credit to Claudia Alarcón

1/2 cup canned plain pumpkin 1 cup rolled oats 3 tablespoons peanut butter 1/3 cup shredded unsweetened coconut Mix all ingredients except the coconut together.

Scoop out in individual tablespoon servings, roll into a ball and roll in coconut.

Let sit in refrigerator for 2–3 hours to firm up.

Recipe notes Make sure to buy peanut butter that does not contain xylitol, as it is toxic to dogs. For the canned pumpkin portion, do not use pie mix.

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FOR THE DOGS

Catering to Canines

A DOG’S GUIDE TO PET BAKERIES IN ALBUQUERQUE AND SANTA FE

By Joanna Manganaro Toto

Judy patiently awaiting a pup treat.

Being an arbiter of taste can be glorious. One sits on a proverbial throne doling out pronouncements on the worthiness of the thing they are judging. Ah, the power! Consider Robert Parker Jr., the wine connoisseur, whose taste buds helped to fuel the exponential growth of the billion-dollar industry, making and breaking countless vineyards in the process. But his power didn't come without its pitfalls.

Parker’s opinions eventually came into question, inspiring more than one take-down documentary film (the best of which is Mondovino) and illustrating the perils of becoming too prominent a tastemaker.

state where homemade dog treats are baked on the premises. Owner Daphne Wright was inspired to begin baking dog treats when she discovered that her beloved dog Bogie had diabetes at just four years old. Bogie needed treats that were healthy and that would help to stabilize his condition, so Wright began researching and experimenting, eventually settling on a handful of solid recipes.

Now entering the cutthroat world of connoisseurship is an unlikely player. Her stats: eleven and a half years old, Australian-shepherd mix, rescued October 2018. Favorite activities: barking at neighbors, long walks, sleeping on forbidden furniture. Guilty pleasures: eating paper towels, used tissues, and cat poop. She is my dog, Judy.

Wright opened Pooch Pantry in 2009 with the mission of sharing those healthy treats with other dogs. She pays special attention to the ingredients: “There’s no salt, no sugar, no butter, no artificial coloring.” Also, she says, “Everything is all natural—organic pumpkin, organic peanut butter.” Her most popular treat is the Peanut Butter Bone with carrot and broccoli, which also happened to be Judy’s favorite Pooch Pantry offering. A close second was the Peanut Butter Cookie.

Judy’s initial step in becoming a world-renowned tastemaker has been to test the offerings of the pet bakeries in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Her first stop was Pooch Pantry. This Santa Fe shop sells high-quality pet food and accessories and is the only locally owned store in the

The next stop on Judy’s homemade treat tour was just a couple blocks away. Teca Tu is located in the DeVargas Mall in Santa Fe and features a range of upscale pet toys, accessories, and food. Their branded treats come in four flavors: chicken, cheese, peanut butter, and pineapple.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

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Top: Daphne Wright and her dog Roxy at Pooch Pantry. Bottom: Pupcakes and peanut butter cookies at Pooch Pantry.

Judy recommends the cheese variety. Small and large sizes make them suitable for dogs of all breeds.

Teca Tu’s branded treats are created by Leah Boetger of The Barker’s Bakery, headquartered in Jemez Springs. Boetger says, “Dogs bring so much love into our lives, so the more we can give back to them in thoughtful attention to their diets will not only enhance their lives but will enhance our lives, too. It’s really a two-way street.” Teca Tu’s owner, Laurie Wilson, is pleased with her partnership with Boetger.

“It’s good to have locally made treats, and it's good to support our local bakers,” Wilson says. “It also helps because we can have a better control on quality and ingredients.”

Charlie and Kathy Wendt of Tailwaggin’ Temptations, along with their impossibly large Bernese mountain dog, Winston, are a friendly fixture at the Downtown Growers Market and the Rail Yards Market in Albuquerque. Always thrilled to see their canine and human friends and happy to make new ones, the Wendts are rivaled only by the “Fresh tortillas!” guy in spreading smiles at the markets.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

In 1992, Kathy Wendt began baking healthy treats for their golden retriever Ben, who had a sensitive stomach, which led to the birth of Tailwaggin’ Temptations. Over the years, the company has grown from producing one type of treat to around sixteen. The Wendts use honey and carrots from fellow vendors at the markets, in addition to other organic, high-quality ingredients.

Wendt says, “It’s important that you know what ingredients are in your dog’s treats, so we try to make sure it’s quality and local as much as we can, and we bake them with love.” Judy feels the love in Tailwaggin’ Temptations’ wheat-free peanut butter cookies and recommends getting to the market early to snag their popular pumpkin muffins.

Judy is reveling in her new role as an arbiter of taste, and, so far, the only pitfalls she has experienced are a few long, treat-induced naps.

Pooch Pantry, 301 N. Guadalupe, Santa Fe, poochpantry.com Teca Tu, DeVargas Mall, Santa Fe, tecatu.com Tailwaggin' Temptations, tailwaggintemptations.com

WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

27

AT THE CHEF'S TABLE

Taking the Long Way Home KIN AT CASTAÑEDA’S SEAN SINCLAIR FINDS HIS PLACE IN HISTORY

By Liz Maliga · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Sean and Katey Sinclair at Castañeda.

“Have you ever been haunted by something you had no idea existed?” asks Sean Sinclair, executive chef and proprietor of the newly opened Bar Castañeda and at Kin at Castañeda (set to open this July).

“That’s the only way I can explain how we felt after seeing this building. I woke up thinking about it, I went to bed thinking about it. Not that the building itself is haunted, but I was haunted by it.”

Walking into the bright, airy lobby of the Castañeda Hotel in Las Vegas, New Mexico, accented with a large brass register and ornate ceilings, it’s evident how this place could become an obsession. Built in 1898, and at that time known as La Castañeda, the hotel was one in the Fred Harvey system, a chain of hotels and restaurants along the railways crisscrossing the Southwest. Harvey himself worked in this particular property early on, in the kitchen, in the hotel, tinkering and figuring out how to build his legacy.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

Elements of the original kitchen––a wooden ice chest, flour bins, a steam table refurbished into a service table––will punctuate the main and private dining rooms, the kitchen, and wine room. In Bar Castañeda, which had its soft opening on April 15, a restored fresco crowns the bar’s freshly stained wooden counter. “It’s one of the most important food buildings in the world, I think,” Sinclair continues. “We’ve lost a lot of historical buildings throughout the Southwest, like the Hotel Alvarado in Albuquerque. A lot of these buildings were condemned, including this one—it hadn’t served guests in seventy-four years. But if you look outside the US, to a place like Tuscany, there are ancient buildings, profitable and running for hundreds of years.

This is a version of that.”

Critical to the Fred Harvey revitalization is Allan Affeldt, an investor with a passion for restoring these landmarks of the Old Southwest.

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AT THE CHEF'S TABLE

Top left, clockwise: Andrew Szeman creating cocktails at Bar Castañeda, The Harvey, The Harvey Girl, Locomotive Breath, Szeman, and Sinclair's street tacos-only available at the bar until Kin opens in July.

Among others, he has led the restoration of the Plaza Hotel, also in Las Vegas, and La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona, and has acquired other historic properties located along the old railway lines. In the rail’s heyday, a dozen or so trains made the stop in Las Vegas daily, and La Castañeda fed most, if not all, passers-through.

Sinclair was born and raised in New Mexico. Sinclair’s philosophy on food and hospitality is informed by previous work at Farm and Table in Albuquerque and, especially, the Inn at Little Washington in Washington, Virginia. He and his wife Katey, a teacher-turned30

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

general manager at the Castañeda, had restaurant ownership in the back of their mind, but were looking for the right place. When Affeldt contacted Sinclair on Facebook, asking if he knew of anyone interested in taking on the Castañeda, they drove out to check it out themselves. “We weren’t exactly looking, but opportunity knocks. If you don’t answer, someone else will,” he says.

When they saw the space, they knew they were about to make the move to Las Vegas. The building itself, and Affeldt’s dedication to preserving and restoring the Fred Harvey hotels, lined up perfectly

with Sinclair’s own desire to take the right approach, not the fastest or surest bet.

“The easy way is almost never the right way,” Sinclair tells me, observing the furniture in one of the hotel’s newly-refinished rooms.

“It’s amazing to partner with someone like [Affeldt] because he’s all about quality, craftsmanship, and making sure this hotel lives up to and exceeds its original.” He gestures to a detailed, beautifully restored side table. “You can’t walk into an Ikea and buy something like that. It took someone hours to put that together.”

Bread is another example. “A lot of people have called me crazy for this idea,” he says, “but we’re doing all we can in-house. We’re going to buy wheat, grind it in-house, and make the bread from that. That creates a different style and different flavor than what you can get anywhere else. But that’s what’s going to make us unique. We’re embracing the long way.”

Part of the long way is forming relationships with local and New Mexico producers. “Using and sourcing locally and really being part of the community isn’t part of our success, it is our success.” Sinclair details one such long-term connection: beef raised on the Charles R. Ranch just outside of Las Vegas. “There are sixty head of cattle, American Black Angus crossed with Japanese Wagyu. They’re fed an ultra-luxurious, free-range diet of varied grasses. I’ll have access to premium cuts like tenderloin, strip loin, and ribeye, as well as some brisket, and some of the chuck will go into our burgers.” Pork and lamb will come from Talisman, cheeses from Dreamcatcher in Tucumcari, and F&A Dairy in Las Cruces, and corn from Tamaya at the Santa Ana Pueblo.

In the hotel’s Bar Castañeda, bar manager Andrew Szeman is pouring beers from Canteen, Santa Fe, Kilt Check, and other New Mexico breweries. Their starting drink list includes preprohibition and prohibition-era classics, like martinis, manhattans, daiquiris, and vespers with hand-carved ice. House libations are concocted with seasonal, house-made syrups, shrubs, and bitters. “It’s upscale, but accessible,” he says. “We’re here to serve this city. If you’re coming in for a Coors and a shot of Crown, we’ve got you, too.”

“There’s a lot we can accomplish here, and we want people in the city to know we’re here for the long haul,” Sinclair says.

“Las Vegas is already a great place to live, and we want to be a part of the city’s continued growth. We’re here to complement, not compete.”

“I don't think the Affeldts could have done this anywhere else, any other time,” he continues. “The right craftsmen to do this job are here. The structure is here.”

He doesn’t say so, but Sinclair himself, along with the team he’s assembled, has found his place amongst the craftspeople making this possible.

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31

WILD THING

The Magical Adventure of Hunting Wild Turkeys Story and Photos by Katie DeLorenzo

Katie DeLorenzo and her dad, Donald DeLorenzo, on their annual turkey trek.

After a 4 a.m. wake-up, a nearly full moon lights our path. When we reach the meadow we scouted the day before, my father and I sit down and nestle ourselves against the base of a weathered ponderosa.

Concealment is essential. Our blind is constructed of interwoven pine boughs and we wear head-to-toe camo. Breathing and blinking are the only permissible movements.

Some mornings, a hot tom comes in on a string and gives us quick success. More often than not, we hunt for three to five days before finally harvesting a bird—or even getting a shot. Many people might underestimate the cunning wild turkey, and rightfully so. Most Americans’ turkey experience comes down to buying a perfectly plucked and pre-packaged bird from the grocery store shelf.

The glistening layer of frost on the forest floor turns to mist as sunlight begins to warm the earth. We listen for the unmistakable sounds of spirited gobbles and beating turkey wings. Soon, wild turkeys will fly the roost and descend on the meadows below in search of food and the company of a receptive hen.

It’s easy to forget that to survive in the wild, America’s largest game bird must elude coyotes, goshawks, foxes, bobcats, and numerous other predators. Wild turkeys have incredible eyesight and hearing.

They can reach speeds of up to twenty-five miles per hour while running, and fifty-five flying. They are travelers. If you don’t know their routine, or if they’re not being vocal, they can be exceedingly difficult to locate and call in.

I hear turkey wings flapping and signal the observation by discretely pointing to my ear. One, two, then three birds are on the ground and possibly headed our way. My dad, the turkey whisperer, lightly drags his striker across the face of his slate call, mimicking the purr of a contented hen. He beckons the gobbler to come our way.

His trusty decoy, Henrietta, is positioned in the wet grass, freshly adorned with acrylic paint to make her eyes and beak stand out after many years afield.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

Even on days when the birds don’t cooperate and we walk mile after mile, this hunt is magical. We scour the area for fresh tracks and scat, examining them closely to determine their age, and piece together any clues about the birds’ recent behavior or whereabouts. On these days, my dad bestows on me the wisdom he’s stockpiled over a lifetime of being a passionate outdoorsman and biologist.

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WILD THING He points out the “bones” of a pine branch lying on the ground from a tassel-eared squirrel stripping its cambium layer for a meal.

He theorizes that, based on the large cache of algae in a spring, it’s likely the only permanent water source in the canyon. I soak it all in and relish the opportunity to share this tangible enchantment of roaming the outdoors with him.

These trips are less about a harvest than they are the journey, but it’s especially rewarding to serve meat that took more skill to acquire than swiping a credit card. If you’re interested in hunting for your own wild harvested and hormone-free meat, a spring turkey hunt is the perfect place to start. From online calling tutorials to local skills based workshops, ample resources exist to prepare you before the next spring season. And summer hikes are a great way to become familiar with an area, its roads, and water sources.

Unlike most big game tags in New Mexico, you can simply buy a turkey tag over the counter, as opposed to having to apply for the annual big game draw. Residents can buy a game hunting license, the proper stamps, and a tag that’s good for two bearded spring birds for right around forty-five dollars. For more information on wild turkey hunts and regulations, visit wildlife.state.nm.us.

WILD TURKEY GREEK MEATBALLS AND TZATZIKI SAUCE Makes approximately 24 meatballs

Meatballs 2 eggs 1 pound ground wild turkey 1/4 cup red onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons garlic, minced 3/4 cup breadcrumbs 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil (plus 4 tablespoons for cooking) 1/2 teaspoon cumin 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 1/4 finely fresh parsley, chopped 3/4 teaspoon salt 3/4 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground Tzatziki Sauce 1 cup plain Greek yogurt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 cup English cucumber, finely diced 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed (save rind for zest) 1 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground Place all meatball ingredients into a large bowl and mix well.

If you have time, chill meatball mixture in the freezer for 10– 15 minutes; it will make the meat easier to roll into balls.

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

Roll meat into 1-inch balls using a heaping tablespoon of meatball mixture. Keep the balls equal in size so they cook through evenly in the frying pan. A pound of meat makes about 24 meatballs. You can also choose to bake these by placing them 1/2 inch apart on a 10x13-inch oiled baking sheet and cooking them at 350ºF for about 20 minutes.

However, since wild turkey is very lean and prone to drying out, frying keeps them juicier on the inside with a nice light crust on the outside.

To fry, heat 4 tablespoons olive oil in a medium to large frying pan until just smoking. Cook meatballs in batches of around 8, making sure they can move around the pan easily to brown while cooking. Cook each batch for 6 minutes, placing the cooked meatballs on a plate to drain.

While your meatballs are cooking, whip up your tzatziki sauce.

Mix Greek yogurt, olive oil, English cucumber, minced garlic, lemon juice, dill, salt, and pepper. Mix well and garnish with lemon zest and extra dill. Refrigerate until serving.

COOKING FRESH

The Road Less Travelled EATING WELL ON A SOUTHWESTERN ADVENTURE

By Satsunderta aka Sunny Khalsa and Stephanie Cameron

On May 15, I will set out on a solo, month-long pilgrimage of sorts, riding my four-year-old horse, El Markeyn, and leading a philosophical, juvenile camel named Meshach roughly six hundred miles from southern Colorado to the Grand Canyon. For the most part, we will ride next to state highways and along lesser country roads. We will try to find quiet, off-the-road spots to set up camp under the stars, and both Meshach and El Markeyn will be hobbled and staked at night, to keep them from roaming. Stops to resupply food and water will be 36

edible New Mexico | SPRING 2019

limited, and likely will occur only at the occasional, lonely gas station. As such, Meshach has the responsibility of carrying close to five hundred pounds of water, food, and supplies. This trip would not be possible without his incredible strength and resilience.

I conjured up this fantastical journey after reading Lesley PolingKempes’s Ladies of the Canyons, a collection of trailblazing adventures led by self-made, liberated, pre-feminist women in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. One of these women was Carol Bishop

Stanley, who acquired Ghost Ranch through the sheer luck of her then-husband, Roy, a gambling, drunken cowboy, who happened to win the deed to the ranch in a game of cards. My animal partners and I will ride into New Mexico, to Abiquiu, to pay homage to Stanley and the other “ladies of the canyons” who have inspired me. I expect to be faced with fears and challenges along the way, but it is my intention to deepen connections and means of communication with my fourlegged companions, the people we encounter, and the majestic lands we travel through.

the time that I procured Meshach, it occurred to me that I had no idea what I would eat for a month on the road. I am a pescatarian who loves good food, but I am often too busy (or lazy) to cook. Beyond those constraints, this trip poses unique culinary challenges in regard to spoilage, space, and equipment. So I decided to call on my friends at edible New Mexico and ask for their help and expertise in coming up with some practical and wholesome menu options to prevent my otherwise imminent starvation, as well as give me something tasty and exciting to look forward to on those long days across the desert.

Most of my preparations for this ride have revolved around the needs of my animal companions, their well-being, food, and water. Around

Follow Sunny Khalsa on Instagram @tamingthewind to see photos from her journey.

Inspired by Sunny Khalsa’s journey, edible New Mexico created six vegetarian recipes for one traveler on a thirty-day, solo trek. These Cooking Fresh recipes can easily be doubled for another traveler. With some prep before hitting the trail, Khalsa can repeat these meals after replenishing supplies. All ingredients were selected with weight in mind and can be stored without refrigeration for at least four days. One should cook the meals with the more perishable ingredients within those first few days, and save the others for after. All ingredients combined weigh approximately 6 pounds and the needed equipment weighs about 4 pounds.

WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

37

COOKING FRESH ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT Other items you will need (not shown): Small cutting board, dishwashing soap and sponge, container or flask for oil, small amount of foil (optional), campfire grate (optional), food-specific stuff sack/container for storing food on trail and at night.

Small cookware/mess kit that includes saucepan and lid

Spatula and large spoon

Pot scraper

Backpacker’s chef’s knife Small grater

Mess kit with plate, bowl, and utensils

Spice containers

Lightweight canister stove

6-inch cast-iron skillet

Measuring spoons

Pot holder/dish rag

Leftover Campfire Frittata 38

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

Portable 6-egg holder

S M A L L B AT C H . B E A N T O B A R . C H O C O L AT E

M A D E F R E S H D A I LY

8114 E d i t h B l v d N E A l b u q u e r q u e 505.433.4 0 7 6 e l d o r a c h o c o l a t e . c o m

COOKING FRESH LEFTOVER CAMPFIRE FRITTATA 4 eggs 1/4 small onion 1/2 small zucchini Small handful cherry tomatoes Any veggies leftover from previous meals 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons gruyère, grated

Heat oil in a 6-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Once oil is hot, add onion, zucchini, tomatoes, and any other leftover veggies. Sauté until the vegetables are tender and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes.

In a bowl, whisk eggs and salt together until the yolks and whites are completely blended. Pour eggs evenly over vegetables. Sprinkle grated cheese over the top. Cover skillet with a lid or aluminum foil. If cooking over a campfire and using a cast-iron lid, you can move some coals to the top of the lid to help the frittata cook more evenly.

Cook over medium heat 10 minutes, until eggs set. Once the frittata has cooked through, remove from heat and cut into slices.

(See page 38 for photo.)

CAST-IRON CHILAQUILES 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 corn tortillas, cut into wedges 1/4 onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup tomato sauce 1/2 jalapeño, chopped 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 eggs Optional toppings: Cilantro, arugula, avocado, diced onion, grated cheese, or fresh lime slices

Cast-iron Chilaquiles 40

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

Heat oil in a skillet over high heat. Once oil is hot, add tortilla triangles in a single layer and fry for a few minutes until golden brown, flipping once.

Remove and set aside on a paper towel to drain. Repeat with the rest of the tortillas.

Lower heat to medium. Add onion and jalapeño to remaining oil and sauté for a few minutes until soft. Add garlic and sauté for about 30 seconds, then add tomato sauce, salt, and a splash of water. Bring to a simmer, then add the fried tortillas. Stir to coat.

To cook eggs, move tortillas to the outside edges of the skillet, creating a well in the center. Drop eggs into sauce and cook to your liking—you can scramble them, or cover the skillet and allow them to poach in the sauce.

Serve with the toppings of your choice.

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COOKING FRESH BACKCOUNTRY GOURMET MAC ’N CHEESE 4 ounces macaroni 2 ounces cheese of your choice (3/4 cups grated) 3/4 cups rehydrated full-cream powdered milk 1/2 tablespoon flour 1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms (chopped into 1/4-inch pieces) Salt and pepper to taste 2 cups water

PREP AND STORAGE TIPS • Prep meals ahead of time. Place all measured dry ingredients for a meal together in a resealable freezer bag and measured wet ingredients in small containers that can be reused for leftovers or new ingredients.

• Hard cheese is best for extended trips, hot weather, snacking, and meal toppings. The low moisture in aged hard cheeses concentrates flavor and extends shelf life. Wrap in waxed paper, then loose plastic wrap-not a plastic bag.

• Store oily/wet food and dry ingredients in separate food-specific stuffsacks to prevent a mess.

• Don't store produce in sealed plastic bags. Ripening produce releases gas that gets trapped in the bag, accelerating decomposition.

• To maximize shelf life, store carrots, celery, and radishes in damp paper towel-lined, unsealed sandwich bags.

• Leave garlic and onions intact for travel.

• Freshly harvested, unwashed chicken eggs, which can often be found at farmers markets, need no refrigeration and can be transported in a reusable egg carrier to prevent breakage.

• Dried mushrooms can add a lot of flavor and are easy to reconstitute on the trail.

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Soak mushrooms in 2 cups water for 20 minutes, then strain. To save water and boost flavor, use leftover liquid to cook pasta.

Boil noodles until al dente, drain, and set aside.

Heat milk over medium heat just until it starts to bubble. Reduce heat and mix in flour until there are no clumps. Simmer until mixture thickens, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Add cheese in batches, stirring until fully combined and smooth. Mix in mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Remove from heat, stir in noodles, and serve.

Backcountry Gourmet Mac ’n Cheese

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COOKING FRESH CHAPATI AND LENTIL STEW Chapati 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 tablespoon full-cream powdered milk Pinch of salt 1/4 cup water Ghee for brushing Lentil Stew 6 tablespoons red lentils 1 bay leaf, whole 1 teaspoon onion flakes 1 teaspoon garlic flakes 1/2 teaspoon thyme 1/2 teaspoon parsley flakes 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon celery salt 1/4 teaspoon crushed rosemary leaves 1/4 teaspoon oregano 1/8 teaspoon black pepper 1/8 teaspoon cumin 1/8 teaspoon chile flakes 2 cups water

Chapati and Lentil Stew 44

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At Home For chapati: Mix flour, powdered milk, and salt in a medium-sized resealable freezer bag.

For lentil stew: Mix all ingredients in a resealable freezer bag.

On the Trail For chapati: Pour 1/4 cup water into the bag with flour mixture. Close the bag and knead the smooth dough. Remove dough from bag and leave to rest for about 5 minutes. Divide dough into 4 parts. Shape each piece into a ball, then roll out or stretch into flat disks (as thin as possible). Place skillet over medium heat. Cook chapati on both sides until golden brown.

Remove from heat and brush with ghee. Any extra chapati can be stored in a bag or airtight container and enjoyed on the trail later.

For the lentil stew: Empty the contents of the bag into small saucepan and place over high-heat. Pour in 2 cups of water and allow the mixture to boil, giving it a stir occasionally. Cook for about 20 minutes, or until lentils are soft and the consistency is to your liking. Should you run out of liquid while the lentils are still hard, add a bit more water and continue cooking. Water will also affect the consistency of the final dish; if you want the concoction to be soupier, add more water; if you want it thicker, add less.

Campo at Los Poblanos is pleased to welcome

CHEF NINI

NGUYEN

FPO Presenting another exciting Los Poblanos Dining Series culinary event.

You may remember her from the last season of Top Chef. Now, we are excited to welcome Chef Nini Nguyen to Los Poblanos to showcase her talents here in the Rio Grande River Valley.

Hailing from New Orleans, Chef Nini Nguyen is the daughter of Vietnamese immigrants, and she embraces both culinary influences in her cooking style. Her career spans from SucrĂŠ and Coquette, specializing in pastries to Eleven Madison Park, nationwide at Dinner Lab and beyond. We are eagerly anticipating the special menu she will craft in partnership with our award-winning culinary team and are thrilled to present this chance-of-a-lifetime dining event.

August 11, 2019 | 6pm Visit lospoblanos.com for tickets, information and menu as it becomes available.

COOKING FRESH DAN DAN NOODLES WITH SHISHITOS 1 teaspoon oil 6 shishito peppers 4 ounces buckwheat soba noodles 2 1/2 tablespoons peanut butter 1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 1 teaspoons sriracha (or more depending on your spice tolerance) 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes Salt to taste 2 cups water

At Home Mix peanut butter, soy sauce, sesame oil, and sriracha; put in small container.

On the Trail Heat oil in cast-iron skillet on high heat. Add shishito peppers, sprinkle with salt, and cook until blistered. Set aside.

Bring to a boil enough water to just cover the noodles. Once boiling, add noodles and cook according to package instructions. Once noodles are done, drain off all but about 1/2 tablespoon of the cooking water. Stir in the peanut butter, soy sauce, sesame oil, and Sriracha mixture. If needed, thin out the sauce with a little water. Salt to taste. Toss with shishito peppers and sprinkle with red pepper flakes.

Dan Dan Noodles with Shishitos

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Seasonal

Sustainable

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COOKING FRESH RED LENTIL SLOPPY JOES 1/2 tablespoon oil 1/2 small onion, diced 1/2 jalapeño pepper, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup red lentils 3/4 cup water 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1/2 tablespoon mustard 1/2 tablespoon maple syrup 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar 1/2 teaspoon vegan Worcestershire sauce 1/2 teaspoon red chile powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 hamburger bun

Red Lentil Sloppy Joes

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At Home Mix tomato paste, mustard, maple syrup, vinegar, and Worcestershire together; put in small container.

On the Trail In saucepan, heat oil over medium heat; add chopped onion and jalapeño. Sauté until soft and onion just begins to turn golden, 3–4 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute.

Add the red lentils and 3/4 cup water to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender but not falling apart. Add tomato paste, mustard, maple syrup, apple cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, chile powder, and salt.

Stir to combine. Simmer until the sauce thickens a bit, 3–5 minutes more.

Serve on toasted bun with whatever toppings you have available.

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A taste of life in New Mexico

4/22/19 11:04 AM

FORAGED

Double Yarrow Bitters Story and Photos by Ellen Zachos

Left: Foraged Yarrow Bitters. Right: Bitter Rickey.

Yarrow (also known as Achillea millefolium) is a plant with an illustrious history. Named after Achilles, the mythic warrior of ancient Greece, its leaves were used to staunch the flow of blood, presumably handy on the battlefield of Troy. In Britain, yarrow has been used to flavor beer, and Navajos and multiple Pueblo peoples, including Zuni, have used it for pain relief and healing burns. Today, commercial varieties come in many colors, but the yarrow you’ll find in the wild usually has white, pale pink, or pale yellow flowers.

Yarrow is cold hardy across the entire state of New Mexico. Look for this sun-loving perennial in lawns and fields. Growing to be eight to eighteen inches tall, yarrow bears its flowers in wide, flat clusters. Its foliage is feathery, with minutely divided leaflets. Try chopping the leaves and using them as an herb; they have an intriguing, spicy flavor. Some compare it to tarragon or anise, but that’s only part of the flavor picture.

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The roots of yarrow are intensely bitter and make an excellent base for creating your own foraged cocktail bitters. Bitters were originally a digestive stimulant, and some people still use them that way, adding a few drops to seltzer. In cocktails, bitters temper the sweetness of a drink made with simple syrup and add a savory, aromatic note to fruit-based drinks. If you’re making a sour with raw egg whites, a dash of bitters will keep those egg whites from smelling like a wet dog.

Some mixologists compare bitters in cocktails to salt in food: a flavor hard to describe but essential to the balance and composition of a dish. I think the best way to understand what bitters bring to the party is by doing a simple taste test. Make a cocktail that calls for bitters (like the Bitter Rickey below), but before adding the bitters, split the almost finished cocktail into two glasses. Add bitters to one, but not to the other; then compare the flavors of the two drinks.

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FORAGED of your solid ingredients. If you need to add a little more Everclear to make that happen, that’s fine.

Cover the jar and let it sit away from direct sun for at least two weeks. Shake the jar once a day, and taste the liquid after two weeks. If the flavor isn’t strong enough, let it sit another week. Once you can taste the foraged ingredients, strain off the solids and keep them handy.

Measure the strained alcohol and put it aside. Pour twice as much water as you have alcohol into a small saucepan, add the strained solids, then bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and allow the liquid to simmer for ten minutes. Remove the liquid from the heat, cover, and let it sit overnight.

Then strain off the solids, and throw them away.

Measure the liquid, and for every 4 ounces, add 1 teaspoon of sugar. Gently warm and whisk to dissolve the sugar, then remove the liquid from the heat and allow it to cool.

The ABV (alcohol by volume) of commercial bitters ranges from 37 to 45 percent. By combining equal parts of your alcohol- and water-based infusions, your bitters have an ABV of 37.5 percent.

Yarrow. Photo from WikiCommons.

FORAGED YARROW BITTERS When making bitters, measure the liquid (a neutral grain spirit) in fluid ounces, and measure the solids by weight.

The ratio of liquid to solid should be 2 to 1 for fresh ingredients and 4 to 1 for dry ingredients. Commercial bitters often have long lists of ingredients, but I prefer to use just 3 to 5 in my foraged bitters, so the flavor of each can be fully appreciated. At least half of the solids should be bitter; the remainder can be a combination of spice and fruit, depending on your personal preference.

In this recipe, I use both yarrow root (for the primary bitter ingredient) and yarrow leaf (the spice).

4 fluid ounces Everclear 151 1 ounce fresh yarrow root, chopped 1/2 ounce fresh yarrow foliage 1/2 ounce fresh or frozen seasonal fruit (apricots, plums, or chokecherries all work well; leave the stones in for a touch of almond flavor) Combine the Everclear, yarrow root, yarrow leaves, and stone fruit in a glass jar. The liquid should just cover the top 52

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

Now that you’ve built your bitters, how will you use them?

Try this twist on a traditional rickey cocktail. Rickeys are usually made with gin or bourbon, lime, and seltzer. They’re refreshing, summery cocktails, perfect for this time of year.

BITTER RICKEY 2 ounces gin 1 ounce fruit syrup (blackberry pictured on page 50) 1/4 ounce limoncello 1 ounce seltzer 5 drops bitters In a shaker full of ice, combine the gin, syrup, and limoncello. Shake for 30 seconds, then strain into a glass. Top with the seltzer and bitters, and give the cocktail a gentle stir. For a lighter cocktail, add an additional ounce of seltzer and pour over ice.

Posa's Tamales - Our New Mexican Tradition Since 1955 SANDWICHES & SALADS Open Tuesday through Saturday 8am-5pm | Serving Menu Items till 4 LOCAL BEEF, PORK, LAMB, AND GOAT Executive Chef Owned and Operated 2860 CERRILLOS RD, SANTA FE • 505-471-0043 • DRFIELDGOODS.COM

- SANTA FE Posa's Tamale Factory & Restaurant 1514 Rodeo Rd. 505-820-7672 santafetamales.com

Posas on Zafarano 3538 Zafarano Drive 505-473-3454 Posaszafarano.com

WORTH THE TRIP

Retreat Yourself COUNTRY COMFORT AT TAOS GOJI ECO LODGE

By Candolin Cook

Aldous Huxley Cabin at Taos Goji Eco Lodge. Photo courtesy of Taos Goji Eco Lodge.

A dozen miles north of Taos, nestled in the Sangre de Cristo mountains, sits a destination rooted in agriculture and steeped in history.

Taos Goji Eco Lodge is an inn and forty-acre farm boasting an unusual crop, rustic charm, and cozy accommodations. For more than a century, visitors and residents have found inspiration in the bucolic beauty and gentle pace of this property, which both lends itself to productivity and encourages guests to stop and smell the berries.

Last fall I arrived at Taos Goji Eco Lodge as a grad student on the verge of a nervous breakdown. Overwhelmed by my impending comprehensive exams—in particular a grueling, three-hour, oral assessment sure to give any academic an acute case of imposter syndrome—I was in desperate need of a study retreat. Taos Goji met all my criteria: remote but accessible, a quiet, comfortable space where I could focus and organize six years’ worth of US history courses, readings, and research. The patchy cell phone service was a plus.

Lodging on the organic fruit and vegetable farm consists of ten cabins ranging from quaint studios to a three-bedroom home, and two “glamping” tipis. In earlier incarnations, the El Prado property acted as a nineteenth-century sheepherders homestead, a trading post and post office, and a retreat for artists and writers in the 54

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

early twentieth century. Several of the cabins are named after the property’s most famous visitors—D. H. Lawrence, Frieda Lawrence, Dorothy Brett, Georgia O'Keeffe, and Aldous Huxley, who is said to have written one of his early novels there. Other features include a sixteen-hundred-square-foot open barn for weddings and events, Japanese soaking tubs, walking trails, creeks, and ponds. On my trip last fall and a subsequent visit this spring, I stayed in the Huxley cabin—a bright, spacious studio with a full kitchen, dining and living areas, wood-burning stove, enclosed back garden, and antique decor, including a sepia-toned portrait of the famed British writer.

With hummingbirds and butterflies fluttering above, the farmstay’s communal picnic tables and shaded hammocks proved particularly lovely spots for reading about the Gilded Age. On study breaks, I could decompress by visiting with the farm’s menagerie of adorable lambs, goats, alpacas, guinea hens, turkeys, and chickens—who provide fresh eggs for guests—or by meandering through the organic pumpkin patch, apple orchards, and namesake goji berry fields.

Gojis, or wolfberries, are small bright red fruits native to China.

Their tart flavor is similar to a cranberry, and often, in the US, we will see them in dried form, which intensifies their sweetness. Long

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WORTH THE TRIP

Ripe goji berries and resident alpacas at the property. Photos courtesy of Taos Goji Eco Lodge.

used in traditional Chinese medicine, the antioxidant-rich goji berry has more recently become popular in the States, thanks to its mediagenic designation as a “superfruit.” Taos Goji Eco Lodge proprietors Elizabeth and Eric vom Dorp did not begin cultivating gojis in 2008 because of any health trends, but because Elizabeth missed cooking with the fresh berries she used to easily procure in her native Sweden.

“I couldn’t find them anywhere,” she said when we toured her four and a half acres of goji shrubs. “But then we discovered gojis are wellsuited to the environment here.” The vom Dorps have sold their gojis at farmers markets in Taos and Santa Fe, but more often eat what they grow and sell or give away excess to neighbors. This summer, however, the couple will use their harvest to create a line of goji berry skincare products and goji leaf teas to sell locally and online. The high-concentration of vitamins and antioxidants found in the berries is said to be beneficial to skin tone and elasticity. The leaves also contain antioxidants and are high in flavonoids, which studies suggest help lower blood pressure. “The leaves are also just great stir-fried with a little butter and garlic,” said Elizabeth.

On my last morning at Taos Goji, I joined the vom Dorps for breakfast in their main cabin, a lovingly restored log and adobe building which now serves as a communal dining area, event space, and 56

edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

cafe for guests. Eric had prepared a heaping platter of Swedish pancakes—tender and paper-thin—which I topped with the traditional accoutrements of sour cream and fresh fruit, as wells as preserved goji berries from last year’s harvest. Breakfast and lunch at Taos Goji are available upon request, and always shared family style with the vom Dorps and their WWOOFers—temporary, volunteer workers who come from all over the globe through the World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms program. “We couldn’t really do this without them,” Eric said. “There are countless projects: fixing fences, chopping wood, pruning trees, harvesting vegetables . . . it’s never done.”

Shortly after breakfast, when leaving the farm by the narrow dirt road lined with cottonwoods and elms, I passed Eric, already kneedeep in an irrigation ditch, shoveling away in the late morning sun.

Certainly, a lot of hard work happens at Taos Goji, but plenty of leisure does, too; and after a long weekend of hitting the books (and nearby hot springs) I felt ready to take my exams. From world travellers to honeymooners and literary luminaries to stressed-out doctoral students, this hidden gem of northern New Mexico is ideal for anyone looking to get things done or to simply get away.

1530 and 1528 Old State Road 3, San Cristobal, 575-776-3971, taosgoji.com

Step Into New Mexico’s History The past comes alive at El Rancho de las Golondrinas living history museum.

Explore New Mexico’s Hispano traditions and culture from the 1700s–1800s.

Open Wednesday through Sunday, June to October, with free admission for New Mexico residents on Wednesdays.

EST. 1965

Join Mrs. J, Santa Fe’s 2019 Living Treasure, at Rancho de Chimayó Restaurante.

A Timeless Tradition.

W E E K E N D E V E N TS The 26th Annual Santa Fe Wine Festival | July 6–7 Celebrate your freedom with handmade wines from New Mexico. ¡Viva Mexico! Fiesta | July 20-21 Celebrate the rich culture of Mexico at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. Our shared histories and cross-cultural influences are undeniable at ¡Viva Mexico!

New Mexico Beer and Food Festival: Panza Llena | August 3–4 Experience historic methods of food preparation, learn from food historians, attend workshops, and sample delicious locally made food and beer.

F O R M O R E W E E K E N D E V E N TS V I S I T G O L O N D R I N A S.O R G

partially funded by the city of santa fe arts commission and the 1% lodgers’ tax, county of santa fe lodgers’ tax, new mexico arts, and new mexico bank and trust

Reservations are recommended especially for outdoor terrace seating.

Please note that we are now CLOSED Mondays year-round.

SHOP OUR ONLINE STORE!

300 Juan Medina Rd, Chimayó 505-984-2100 Winner of the 2016 James Beard ranchodechimayo.com Foundation America’s Classics Award

EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

Tacos

By Stephanie and Walt Cameron Publishers Stephanie and Walt Cameron are sharing some of their finds around New Mexico in edible’s new department, Eight Around the State. Traveling the state in search of great food and stories demands a tasty taco from time to time, so in this issue they share some of the taco joints where they’ve stopped in during their travels. They would love to hear of readers’ favorites. Drop them an email at info@ediblenm.com with your best finds from anywhere in the Land of Enchantment.

Silver City MI MEXICO VIEJO What we are eating: Carne asada and barbacoa served with rice, beans, guacamole, and corn tortillas to build your own tacos.

Worth noting: Small drive-thru taco truck with funky outdoor seating options. Great value for the price and all the carne asada, barbacoa, carnitas, and adobada are made from scratch with care by sisters from Mexico. Silver City locals swear their burritos are the best around.

Find: 202 E Broadway, Silver City

Elephant Butte CASA TACO What we are eating: The daily special of Jamaican jerk, Yucatan pork, and shrimp tacos.

Worth noting: Not fast food. Everything is made from scratch. Taco shells are cooked on a griddle, which gives them that crispy goodness everyone loves without all the grease. They also have a location in Albuquerque, and on Mondays have $1.50 taco nights at both locations.

Find: 704 Highway 195, Elephant Butte

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LOCAL · VIBRANT · FRESH SERVING BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINNER 125 SECOND STREET NW | ALBUQUERQUE, NM 87102 Phone: 505.388.0088

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Learn more about your local ranchers at

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H OT E L A N DA LU Z .CO M

EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

Pojoaque EL PARASOL What we are eating: Shredded beef tacos with guacamole and red salsa.

Worth noting: El Parasol has six locations in three counties, all franchised to members of the founding family, extending to the third generation. Although the tacos are our go-to, they have many other New Mexican and Mexican offerings on their menu, including tamales, burritos, enchiladas, and menudo.

Find: 30 Cities of Gold Road, Santa Fe

Alamogordo RIZO'S AUTHENTIC MEXICAN RESTAURANT What we are eating: Mini street tacos with barbacoa, carne asada, carnitas, carne deshebrada, and al pastor, served with cilantro, onion, and lime.

Worth noting: This is the real deal, with Ana and Jose Rizo at the helm. They pride themselves on serving traditional Mexican food, not Tex-Mex or New Mexican. Everything is made from scratch, including the tortillas.

Find: 1480 N White Sands Blvd, Alamogordo

Las Vegas THE SKILLET What we are eating: Pork belly and Three Sisters tacos.

Worth noting: The Skillet is not just a restaurant; it’s an art installation. With vibrant murals, funky sculptures, and unique furnishings, your senses will be on overload with the great food and eye candy. In addition to more than a dozen kinds of tacos, you will also find eleven different burritos and many other comfort food offerings.

Find: 619 12th Street, Las Vegas

New Mexican & American Classics Margaritas, Cold Drafts, Full Bar Patio Dining on the Taos Plaza

Open for Lunch Tuesday-Sunday. Open for Dinner Everyday.

Happy Hour Tuesday-Sunday 2-5 PM. 30 craft beers on tap.

614 Trinity Drive, Los Alamos • 505-662-8877 pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

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Visit us on the Taos Plaza thegorgebarandgrill.com (575) 758-8866

parcht.com (575) 758-1994

103 East Plaza | Taos, New Mexico

730 St Michaels Drive, Santa Fe, 505.471.0440 www.loyalhoundpub.com | Lunch & Dinner, Monday-Saturday

EIGHT AROUND THE STATE

Las Cruces - Stop One WANNABE FARMS FOOD TRUCK What we are eating: Vegetarian tacos made with grilled squash, bell peppers, cabbage, refried beans, and salsa.

Worth noting: Offers a farm-to-table menu. The owners have a three-acre farm in Mesquite, and if they aren't using ingredients from their farm, they are sourcing from the farmers market and local grocers.

Find: Little Toad Creek Brewery & Distillery on Friday nights; follow them on Facebook for other locations & times.

Mesilla CHALA'S WOOD FIRE GRILL What we are eating: Citrus marinated chicken tacos with red chile citrus vinaigrette.

Worth noting: Great patio for outdoor dining and fresh, heritage inspired southern New Mexican dishes.

We also highly recommend the Chala’s Benedict, two masa biscuits filled with red chile carne topped with a poached egg and hollandaise sauce.

Find: 2790 Avenida de Mesilla, Las Cruces

Las Cruces - Stop Two LUCHADOR What we are eating: Carne asada tacos.

Worth noting: This food truck has been a staple of the Las Cruces street food scene since 2013. Mexican street food is their speciality and they celebrate lucha libre and Mexican folk culture. Their menu changes often, always with a focus on high-quality ingredients.

Find: Las Cruces Farmers Market on Saturdays; follow them on Facebook for other locations and times.

Susan’s Fine Wine and Spirits

It’s Rosé season and we have the largest selection in town!

1005 S. St. Francis, Suite 101 | 505-984-1582 sfwineandspirits.com | Mon - Sat 10am - 8pm

W I N E B I S T RO

The mos t color ful outdoor dining in Santa Fe! Lunch Monday-Saturday • Dinner Every Evening Happy Hour Wines $6 before 6pm 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 • terracottawinebistro.com

Safe Havens FOR AFRICAN AMERICAN MOTORISTS IN JIM CROW AMERICA, THE GREEN BOOK WAS THEIR BIBLE

By Frank Norris

“I

Fall 1956 edition of the Green Book. Courtesy of New York Public Library.

In New Mexico, hostelries advertising to African Americans were listed in Tucumcari, Santa Rosa, and Albuquerque. West from there, black motorists who had previously traveled along the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway trusted that they could rely on meals and a warm bed at the various Fred Harvey Houses in New Mexico, Arizona, and California.

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R

oute 66 was a magical highway. As Nat King Cole crooned in his 1946 hit, Route 66 “winds from Chicago to L.A., more than two thousand miles all the way.” Having a car meant having a freedom machine, and between the 1920s and the 1970s, millions of people took advantage of that freedom by driving down the Mother Road through New Mexico on their way to California.

Not everyone, however, enjoyed the same degree of freedom while traveling along Route 66. White travelers were free to cruise Route 66 and stop at any side-of-the-road motel, steak-dinner restaurant, gas station, or reptile farm they might encounter along the way. But for African Americans, it was not so easy, because the prevalent racial attitudes of mid-twentieth-century America forced them to adapt, to be inventive, and at times to simply endure. The recent motion picture Green Book has educated viewers on the limited choices that African Americans had when it came time to rest, eat, and even get gasoline.

Discrimination took place not only in the South but up north, in the Midwest, and even in western states such as New Mexico.

Route 66 was established in 1926, but well before that, thousands of African Americans had begun migrating out of the rural south as part of the Great Migration. Many settled in New York, Chicago, Detroit, and other large northern cities, but considerable numbers also headed west to California. They looked for economic opportunity in the manufacturing and service sectors and hoped to escape the blatant, painful system of discrimination enforced through Jim Crow laws that had been imposed by southern whites since the late nineteenth century. However, for African Americans who were able to escape the South, life in the larger northern and western cities was by no means easy, and discrimination still existed.

On the whole, the country’s public accommodations, with only slight variations between southern and northern states, were hostile to African Americans. George Schuyler, an African American journalist, recalled, “Prior to 1945, the number of hotels, restaurants, motels and such establishments that welcomed Negro patronage outside the south was infinitesimal.” By 1949, “Negro travelers were welcome in not more than six percent of the nation’s better hotels and motels,” and there were “probably fewer than twenty cities in the country where Negroes [were] not completely barred from white-owned restaurants.”

Given that hostility, African Americans survived while traveling by applying a broad range of well-honed strategies. Many families simply drove straight through to their destination, driving all night long if necessary; they packed picnic baskets of food and stopped only to fuel their gas tank or when nature called. Some families stayed with friends along the way. One Albuquerque business owner recalls that, as a child, she overnighted in national park campgrounds while on cross-country trips. Others kept an eye out for the black part of town.

Some black travelers went to the downtown train station and asked a train porter where to stay, while others drove down the main street, looking for a black resident. Or they might ask a white passer-by, “Where can we get something to eat?” or “Where can we find a room for the night?”

Different states and cities along Route 66 had varying laws and customs related to African American travelers, a situation that proved confusing. African American scholar Robert Russa Moton described the challenges of travel before World War II: “How a colored man . . . can be expected to know all the intricacies of segregation as he travels in different parts of the country is beyond explanation. The truth of the matter is, he is expected to find out as best he can.” Given the humiliation of train travel (in Jim Crow cars) and bus travel (where African Americans were forced to take a rear seat), driving gave black travelers a considerable degree of flexibility, freedom, and anonymity—a “protective bubble,” as one historian calls it. They also knew, however, that the roadside was not so egalitarian.

For courageous black motorists, travel along Route 66 could be every bit as difficult as it was elsewhere. Irv Logan Jr., a black resident of Springfield, Missouri, said that “between Chicago and Los Angeles you couldn’t rent a room if you were tired after a long drive. You couldn’t sit down in a restaurant or diner or buy a meal no matter how much money you had. You couldn’t find a place to answer the call of nature even with a pocketful of money . . . if you were a person of color traveling on Route 66 in the 1940s and 1950s.” The viewpoint of James Williams, who rode with a group of friends in 1942 from Louisiana to Flagstaff, was just as glum: “You’d have to drive all night and have to look for the colored part of town, maybe you could find a room.” African Americans knew all too well that white hotel owners had a long list of ready-made excuses for refusing accommodations: “We just rented our last room,” “We forgot to turn off the vacancy sign,” and, in at least one documented case, “The rest of the motel owners will ostracize us.”

During the late 1920s, when Route 66 was a newly designated highway, black motorists had few ways of knowing which hotels and restaurants would accept them. But in 1936 a new guide for black travelers emerged called the Negro Motorist Green Book. Published by an African American, New York based travel agent Victor Green and his wife Alma Duke Green, the Green Book quickly gained in popularity, and revised editions appeared annually. It offered hotel and restaurant listings for cities throughout the United States, though the majority of its listings were for New York, Chicago, and other northern cities that had large black populations. The Green Book, priced at a dollar or less, was distributed at Standard Oil and Esso stations throughout the country. It provided valuable options for travelers who hoped to avoid “embarrassment” and “inconveniences,” as Green tactfully phrased it.

By 1962, some two million copies of the Green Book were distributed to the traveling public. Given the pervasive hostility and uncertainty imposed by white America, it was no wonder that black-owned travel guides were used so widely. The matter-of-fact slogan on the cover of the Greens’ guide testified to its value: “Carry Your Green Book With You; You May Need It.” Within New Mexico, popular attitudes toward African Americans varied by location. Conditions in southern and eastern New Mexico were similar to those in Texas, while Santa Fe was reputedly more tolerant. Albuquerque was somewhere in between. In 1948, a protest at the local Walgreens forced the management to open WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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its soda fountain to African Americans, but other public facilities refused to accept black patrons. In February 1952, the Albuquerque City Commission passed an ordinance that prohibited discrimination in places of public accommodation and, three years later, the New Mexico legislature passed the first statewide civil rights statute in the Intermountain West. Neither of these laws, however, carried a strong enforcement mechanism. As a result, there was occasional backsliding, such as an incident in October 1960 when an Albuquerque restaurant refused service to a University of New Mexico student from Ceylon (present day Sri Lanka).

In New Mexico, hostelries advertising to African Americans were listed in Tucumcari, Santa Rosa, and Albuquerque. West from there, black motorists who had previously traveled along the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway trusted that they could rely on meals and a warm bed at the various Fred Harvey Houses in New Mexico, Arizona, and California. The Harvey Houses in these states, they knew, did not discriminate against African Americans or other minorities by denying service, and they also refused to maintain “separate but equal” dining facilities.

Other than the Harvey Houses, however, early black travelers had few lodging options between Albuquerque and Los Angeles. Before 1949, neither the Green Book nor any other black travel guide listed hostelries anywhere along the eight hundred miles of road between the two cities. But by the mid-1950s, guidebooks advertised hotels and restaurants catering to African Americans in Gallup, New Mexico; Holbrook, Flagstaff, and Kingman, Arizona; and Needles and Barstow, California.

Still, New Mexico could be unwelcoming. A black resident who lived in Tucumcari during the 1950s noted that a typical black family driving through town “might not have been able to stay” in one of the white-owned motels on the main boulevard. In 1955, an NAACP official published the results of a survey in a local Albuquerque newspaper showing that less than six percent of the Central Avenue motels and tourist courts welcomed African American travelers, and that the city’s larger motels were “consistent in their refusal to accommodate” African Americans. According to one longtime black Albuquerque resident, most black travelers attempting to stay at a Central Avenue motel would have been refused service, while another longtime resident said travelers “could never tell what the reaction might be.”

A survey of the Green Book issues and other black-oriented travel guides has identified three hundred sixty properties along Route 66 between Chicago’s outskirts and the Santa Monica beachfront. A field check of those properties reveals that only about one-third of these hotels and restaurants are still standing. This state of affairs is perhaps not surprising. During the 1950s and 1960s, many of the businesses in traditional black neighborhoods were sacrificed in the name of urban renewal or demolished because of freeway construction. Many of the motels on long-standing commercial strips, moreover, fell by the wayside, unable to compete with similar businesses that catered to the white trade.

Twenty-five known Route 66 businesses in New Mexico catered to black patrons. In Tucumcari, two north-end hostelries advertised 66

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in the early black guidebooks. By the early 1950s, Gaynell Avenue (now Tucumcari Boulevard) featured the La Plaza Court, which advertised to black travelers. Shortly afterward two African American entrepreneurs—Nolan Jones and his partner Bob Richards—opened the Amigo Motel and Café at the east end of the motel strip. The nearby village of Santa Rosa historically had few black residents; even so, the Will Rogers Motel, on the south side of Route 66, advertised to black travelers.

Albuquerque offered a fairly broad range of accommodations to African Americans over the years. During the 1920s and 1930s, the Alvarado Hotel—with its Harvey House restaurant—may have been the only hostelry in town that welcomed black travelers. By the late 1940s, the black traveler could choose from two tourist homes, a hotel, a motel, and three restaurants. And by the early 1960s, two more motels, both located on west Central Avenue, catered to an African American clientele. In Gallup, directories from the late 1940s list two tourist homes and two downtown hotels that welcomed black travelers, and by the mid-1950s the Casa Linda Motel was a black-owned facility at the east end of town.

Out of the twenty-five New Mexico businesses that advertised to black travelers before 1964, just six still stand today. In Tucumcari, Mitchell’s Rooms and the Rocket Inn, both residential structures, remain; the La Plaza Court does too, although it has been substantially remodeled in recent years. In Santa Rosa, the Will Rogers Motel is still in business. In Albuquerque, the iconic De Anza Motel on Central Avenue has recently been redeveloped, and in Gallup, a two-story business building once known as the New Commercial Hotel stands near the railroad station. These “safe havens” are symbols of a period in which discrimination in public accommodations was widely practiced. Buildings such as these need to be recognized for their valuable role in providing rest and comfort to black and other nonwhite highway travelers who journeyed along Route 66 between 1926 and the 1964 passage of the Civil Rights Act, which outlawed discrimination based on race, color, religion, or national origin in hotels, motels, restaurants, theaters, and all other public accommodations. Only recently has a larger population begun to recognize the key role that these businesses played in providing safety, comfort, and dignity to early black travelers. As a result, attempts are being made to identify, inventory, and evaluate these motels, tourist homes, restaurants, and similar facilities, as well as to recognize the travelers themselves for their courage and for paving the way for those who came after.

Note: For sources appearing in this article and to read more about the Green Book and Route 66, see Frank Norris, “Courageous Motorists: African American Pioneers on Route 66,” New Mexico Historical Review 90, no. 3 (Summer 2015): 293–332.

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Tucumcari and Santa Rosa offered scattered accommodations for black motorists.

2

3 4 1. Clippings highlighting Tucumcari and Santa Rosa destinations in the Green Book. Photos courtesy of the author.

2. La Plaza Court in Tucumcari. Wikipedia Commons.

3. Alma Duke Green and Victor Hugo Green, authors of the Green Book. New York Public Library.

4. Casa Linda Hotel in Gallup. Wikipedia Commons.

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Soul Food

DOWN TO EARTH IN THE ESPAÑOLA VALLEY

By Briana Olson

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Artisit Rose Simpson and her El Camino. Photo by Kate Russell.

Maybe it’s a longing to find something that’s not on my itinerary—what, for me, is the crux of travel. Discovery. An open mind. Can I really say I’ve been somewhere if I’ve never gotten a little lost there?

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hat is art?” Rose Simpson asks. “How do you make your refrigerator something beautiful?” We’re standing in the artist’s studio on Santa Clara land at Española’s city limit, and the androgynous clay figure on her work table presents itself as one answer—to the first question, at least. But Simpson isn’t talking about that sculpture, or her installation at the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, dominated by post-apocalyptic indigenous warrior figures that any curator or collector would classify as art. She’s talking about the distinction between art and craft, between that which is conceived purely as art and that which has a function, a use. A clay bowl, for instance, or a car.

A car, in fact, is what drew me to begin my tour of Española in Simpson’s studio. Maria is a 1985 El Camino, a long sleek black machine painted to resemble the black-on-black pottery style perfected by the legendary Maria Martinez of Ildefonso Pueblo. As we cross to the garage where Maria is parked, Simpson points across the yard to a couple of other cars that look, to the untrained eye, like junk. One is the 1968 Buick Skylark that she started at the automotive program at Northern New Mexico College with the intention of rebuilding.

Then she bought the El Camino.

El camino translates literally as the path or the road, but it’s hard to look at Maria without thinking of El Camino Real. The historic route runs through Española, the lowrider capital of the world, said to have been named for all the Spanish girls met by railroad workers here in the 1880s. It starts—or ends—in Ohkay Owingeh, where a certain group of Spaniards arrived one irrevocable day in 1598.

In the lowrider scene, every car has its story. Simpson tells me how she brought the El Camino out to the field to put it to use during harvest. Looking at the car filled with corn and beans and squash, she suddenly saw it as a vessel. She decided to build Maria before finishing the Buick. It’s not exactly a lowrider—Simpson installed a four hundred ten horsepower Chevy 350 engine that makes cruising “low and slow” borderline impossible—and it’s not exactly a bowl, but the car is an homage to the Chicano roots of lowrider culture and the Tewa traditions of pottery.

“Maria is intended to be a cultural conversation about how we’ve had to coexist,” she says, “and how can we honor that. And we do share a lot of aesthetics.”

She talks about the healing power of everyday aesthetics, how we derive meaning from the cars we drive, the way we prepare the food we eat, and the plates on which it is served.

“What feeds you?” she asks.

“Family and friends,” Chris Quintana answers when I ask his favorite thing in the Española Valley. Quintana is a manager of Angelina’s Restaurant on Railroad Avenue (and grandson of founding owners Fidel and Angelina Gutierrez), whose large, open dining room is busy with families and friends when I step in. A small flock of ceramic chickens lines the low wall that supports a row of turquoise and beige booths.

Square, wood-framed windows are spaced evenly along the outside walls, letting in lots of light despite the thunderclouds building outside.

I read Angelina’s entire menu even though I already know what I want: chicos. Chicos are made from sweet corn picked young and steamed, in-husk, in an horno, then sun-dried. It’s a labor-intensive dish rooted in ancestral Puebloan tradition, and appears but rarely on urban menus. These chicos, the waitress tells me, are sourced from nearby Velarde. They are sweet, smaller and lighter than the hominy used to make posole, and the kernels burst with the juicy crunch of fresh corn. Cubed pork floats in the broth, touched with red from the chile—a soothing dish for a stormy spring day. The sopaipillas achieve a rare perfection: fluffy, light, crisp, and fresh. I order a side of red chile because I want to taste it head on, and because it’s my favorite condiment for sopas. The sauce is a rich red, tangy but smoky, with just a shade of bitter.

Next I cross the bridge to Santa Cruz, where the Iglesia de Santa Cruz de Cañada—also known as Holy Cross Catholic Church—was built between 1733 and 1748. I’m disappointed to find the heavy wooden doors locked, but as I circle the courtyard, a groundskeeper calls out to me.

“When is it open?” I ask.

“Did you want to go to a mass?”

The question almost surprises me. It’s a reminder that the church’s preservation is not only to honor colonial art and architecture; it remains a contemporary place of worship, of gathering.

I admit that I don't want to attend mass, and the groundskeeper lets me in through the back. Inside, I am steeped in a sense of calm, the thick and beautifully maintained adobe walls and vigas creating an atmosphere of refuge even as I am conscious that the Tanos peoples were forced out of Santa Cruz during the reconquest, prior to the church’s construction. I try on Simpson’s idea of holding space, remembering that loss even as I admire the artistry of early santeros like José Rafael Aragón. At the top of one altar panel, a bird overlooks a cross flanked by flowers and what I take to be cacti. It’s an experience altogether different from viewing Aragón’s works on the walls of a museum.

Maybe it’s that thought that inspires me to wander. Maybe it’s a longing to find something that’s not on my itinerary—what, for me, is the crux of travel. Discovery. An open mind. Can I really say I’ve been somewhere if I’ve never gotten a little lost there?

What stops me, west of the river, at an intersection that seems familiar but not, are the murals. The first one I see is a visual ode to Española, painted two years ago (I learn later) by local artist Cruz Lopez.

A cavalcade of lowriders and conquistadors on horseback converge in the foreground, with Holy Cross and the Sikh temple side by side in the rear. Across the street, the Hunter Community Mural Project blends naturalistic painting with Pueblo patterns, relishing the valley’s agricultural history. Farther along, I find Nani Chacon’s gorgeous The River Flows Through It. I love the vitality of street art, even when viewed through the windshield, but this work is more than worth the time it takes to get out of the car.

A few minutes later, I pass El Parasol, and can’t resist pulling in for some tacos. Sitting at a picnic table in front of the iconic stand, I’m joined by an LA hipster with the word “Trailblazer” patched on his WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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Joan Medina with her 1960 Impala lowrider. Photo by Kate Russell.

jean jacket. His travel companion tells me she has yet to find tacos this good anywhere else. If the taco is an art, these fall right in the “New Mexican mom” genre: corn tortillas folded, fried, and filled with lettuce, cheese, and subtly but addictively seasoned shredded chicken or beef. El Parasol grew out of a curbside service, started in 1958 with Pedro and Lorenzo Atencio selling their mother’s tacos and tamales from a stand. The menu has grown to include everything from breakfast burritos to chilaquiles, and the neighboring El Paragua— converted from the family’s old tack room—is the favorite of many, but these tacos maintain their hold. A steady stream of locals comes through in the short time it takes me to devour mine.

Back on the road, I stumble the back way to El Santuario de Chimayó. Like Holy Cross, the sanctuary is known for its adobe and its retablos. In just a few days, the nave will fill with pilgrims, come to heal through the journey and with the help of the dirt in a small well known as el pocito. It’s often said the site was discovered by a member of the Penitente Brotherhood, beckoned by a bright light to uncover a buried crucifix. I’m attracted to another version of the story, according to which the Penitente was called to dig beneath his plow, where he would—and did—discover powerfully healing earth.

Before coming up, I happened across a list of suggestions on how to use the holy dirt, one of which was not to eat it. I hadn’t planned to defy this suggestion, but as I kneel at the hole, running la tierra bendita through my hands, I have an overpowering impulse to taste 70

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it. The dirt is mild in flavor (less mineral-y than I anticipated), sandy, and on another whim, I ask the clerk in the gift shop where the dirt comes from. “It’s the faith that heals,” she says, responding to my implied skepticism, “not the dirt. So it doesn't really matter.” She’s right; I am a skeptic. But maybe I’m like any other, willing to take a chance on the legendary healing powers of this dirt. Still, thinking about the rich agricultural history and natural beauty of this region, I have to think the dirt itself does matter—and that the source might make it more sacred, not less.

When I told Simpson that sometimes I find it hard to reconcile the value of faith, the power it brings people, with the role the church played in colonial history—Pueblo religious practices prosecuted as sorcery, and worse—one thing she said was, “I see Good Friday like going to a [Pueblo] Feast Day.” Speaking of the pilgrimage to Chimayó, she added, “Sometimes I see people walking and it brings me to tears.”

The Good Friday gathering of lowriders on Riverside Drive is a distinct yet parallel celebration. On my way there, I stop off for lunch at the Sopaipilla Factory in Pojoaque, wishing I had time to visit the neighboring Poeh Cultural Center, where Erik Fender’s black-onblack pottery is featured alongside Clarence Cruz’s micaceous as part of Crossing Pathways (on through the end of June). The restaurant’s full bar serves a few local beers, but with road yet ahead, I resist. From a list of combination plates named for nearby towns (Cuyamungue, Sombrillo, El Rancho), I choose the Española. The green chile is gentle,

LOCALS’ PICKS FOR NEW MEXICAN SOUL FOOD Joan and Lowlow Medina La Cocina (Española) lacocinanewmexico.com Rose Simpson The Sopaipilla Factory (Pojoaque) sopaipillafactory.com Pam Jaramillo El Farolito (El Rito) Facebook: El Farolito Diego Lopez El Paragua (Española) elparagua.com Ralph Martinez JoAnn’s Ranch O Casados (Española) joannsranchocasados.com

ALSO FROM THE STORY Chile rellenos at Angelina's Restaurant. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

the red bright, and I like the simplicity of the unsmothered sides.

Started by former employees of Tomasita’s in Santa Fe, the Sopaipilla Factory is notable for the range of its vegetarian dishes—a testament to the valley’s Sikh community.

When I arrive at San Pedro Plaza, I’m met with a visual feast. Runof-the-mill traffic empties out of the huge lot as metal-flaked Cadillacs muscle in, showing off their hydraulics. “From dark to light,” Rob Vanderslice says, running his hand from the cool dark fuchsias and blues that stripe one side of his Cadillac to the warm yellows and reds on the other, explaining how the design was inspired by his recovery. The mood is glorious. A bunch of kids are playing in a pink 1959 Impala that turns out to belong to Pam Jaramillo and Bobby Chacon, of Los Guys car club. Three of the kids are theirs, too—a point Chacon makes to emphasize the family-friendliness of the event. They are part of a strong community network that has been working diligently toward the establishment of the soon-to-be-a-reality Española Lowrider Museum.

“Our older daughter is already doing pinstripes,” Joan Medina later tells me. “The younger wants to learn airbrushing.” Like Chacon and so many others I talk to, Medina and her husband, Lowlow, are dedicated to sharing their skill and passion with their children, the younger generation, and anyone who takes an interest. She tells me that on top of working on the museum and Lowrider Weekend (July 18–20), the Española Lowrider Association is trying to get cruising back on the weekends. “We’re working with

rosebsimpson.com, elparasol.com, Facebook: Angelinas Restaurant Española

the police, firefighters, gaining respect,” she says, “all working as one big community.”

Nowadays, police officers will pass by playing “Lowrider” from their megaphones, she says. Local businesses support the community by letting them park and sit outside, putting out lawn chairs, chatting with anyone who wants to check out their cars. And you can drop the stereotypical image of homeboys enveloped in smoke, passing forties back and forth; the Medinas are more likely to hand out blankets, pizzas, Bible stories, and advice on staying sober.

Later, when I talk with Ralph Martinez, founder of the annual Española Community Matanza (now in its third year), he explains how the tradition of coming together for feasts inspired him to create an event that would bring together all the people of Española. He’s just finished eating breakfast with executive chef Fernando Ruiz of Chama Land & Cattle, who is judging the salsa competition at this year’s matanza. Three cultural committees, each headed by a community member—one Hispanic, one Native American, one Sikh—are collaborating on the entertainment lineup and menu for this year’s event, where they’ll cook, Martinez emphasizes, under one tent.

“We all live under the sky in Española,” Martinez tells me. “We all hold a lot of the same passions in our hearts.”

My next time up, I’ll take the backroads and visit the Puye Cliffs. In the meantime, I’m going to take a swing at making my refrigerator beautiful.

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48 Hours in El Paso and Juárez A CULINARY VIEW OF THE SOUTHERN BORDER

By Michael Dax · Photos by Sullivan Peraino

Streetside café in Juárez.

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he midterm election was less than a month away and the @TravelNewMexico first reports of a large migrant caravan heading north from Honduras were making national news. For nearly three years, conditions along the US southern border had been a mainstay in the daily media cycle, but by October 2018, negative rhetoric about crime, drugs, and violence in the region had reached a feverish pitch.

Despite some of the more frenzied reports about a “border crisis,” communities in the region, including El Paso and Las Cruces, have insisted that the reality is much different. While I was ill-equipped to tackle some of the larger questions at hand, from my experiences traveling to places like Brazil, Nepal, and Japan, as well as many cities within the United States, I had come to know that so much about a place, its history, and its culture is reflected in its food.

So, it was with this principle in mind that my girlfriend, Sullivan Peraino, and I headed south for a weekend of eating and drinking between El Paso and Ciudad Juárez, a city that for the past decade has made headlines due to the presence of drug cartels and violence. For many of our friends, the notion of “weekending” in Juárez seemed out of the ordinary, to say the least, and our excitement and anticipation was often met with side-eyed glances.

Undeterred and eager to let our taste buds do the talking, we left Santa Fe late Thursday evening, eschewing I-25 to cruise the plains of eastern New Mexico on US-285 and US-54, passing through Clines Corner just as the sun touched the horizon. Across the plains of Carrizozo, we imagined what the darkness hid as we breezed past White Sands National Monument, reaching El Paso late that night, tired but satisfied.

DAY ONE: JUÁREZ After spending a restful evening at the Hotel Indigo and having a hefty and delicious serving of red chile drenched chilaquiles for breakfast at The Downtowner, we crossed into Mexico past US border agents waiting to process drivers on their daily commutes to jobs in El Paso.

Our first stop for the day was the Museo de la Revolución in the Old Customs House that served as the capital of Revolutionary Mexico during the 1910s. In 1909, the year before the revolution began, President William Howard Taft became the first sitting US president to visit Mexico.

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Even then, America’s financial interests in Mexico were significant, and with revolution brewing, Taft hoped his presence would indicate support for President Diaz’s government as a way of protecting US investments. Following the revolutionaries’ victory at the Battle of Ciudad Juárez two years later, Diaz would be forced into exile, but in 1909, Taft’s visit was marked by displays of excess and abundance.

This included a nine-course meal featuring a variety of French wines, the menu for which is now on display at the museum.

A couple blocks from the museum, on the pedestrian plaza of Calle 16 de Septiembre, is La Nueva Central, a large diner-styled café packed with dozens of small tables, nearly every one of them full. In case there was any question that immigration has long been a staple of life in Juárez, the restaurant was opened by Chinese immigrants in 1958 and originally served Chinese food. After struggling for a few years, the restaurant shifted to a more traditionally Mexican menu, and today its signature dish is the ojo de pancha, a sweet pastry with a flaky crust wrapped around a pound cake. But in honor of its Chinese roots, the restaurant still offers a small Chinese menu and has preserved the original mosaic tile mural featuring both Spanish and Chinese script.

By the time we finished our pastries and lattes—dunking is very much encouraged—it was nearly noon and time to head to one of Juárez’s most famous and controversial attractions. Located on El Paso-Juárez Street, in view of one of the many border crossings between the two cities, on a street lined with discount pharmacies, dentists, and nightclubs catering to Americans, the World Famous Kentucky Bar has stood since 1920.

It once catered to celebrities ranging from Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe to John Wayne and Al Capone. But its most famous claim to fame is being the birthplace of the margarita during the 1930s, and until recently, El Pasoans regularly crossed the border to grab a drink.

Naturally, some debate has persisted, with other Mexican border towns, such as Tijuana, claiming the margarita as their own. But the Kentucky Bar’s old-time atmosphere, buoyed by low light, a dark wooden bar, and stiff margaritas served in a classic champagne coupe, makes it tempting to imagine the stars of old Hollywood propagating what has become one of our most beloved cocktails.

From there, it was onto Parador Tomochi, a traditional Chihuahuan restaurant run by chef and owner, Victoria Holguin. For New Mexicans, much of the fare will appear similar to our classic New Mexican food, but with some slight regional twists.

Although few minds were likely changed that night and most people already shared this vision of an economically and culturally unified region, it was an undeniable reminder that when it comes to food, similarities across these cities and countries far outweigh the differences.

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Top left, clockwise: Ojo de pancha from La Nueva Central; trio of gorditas from Parador Tomochi; rib eye steak from Frarsa; shaved scallops with marinated sliced peaches, chia seeds, and black sea salt from Frarsa.

Our meal began with a pinolada—a traditional milk-based drink made from corn flour, cinnamon, and brown sugar—served in a small handcrafted mug. A thicker, richer version of an horchata, pinoladas are often used as an energy drink, but can be mixed with vodka as well. For our main course, we shared a trio of gorditas filled with a red chile pork stew with guajillo and colorado chiles, cumin, and Abuelita Mexican chocolate; a blend of green chile, butter, and cream; and beef marinated in chile pasado, a concoction that begins with dehydrated green chiles that are rehydrated and cooked with onions and other spices.

Up until this point, we had been in some of Juárez’s more historic neighborhoods, characterized by twisting, narrow streets, old cathedrals, and decaying stucco houses. Our next stop, Frarsa, a restaurant specializing in modern Italian cuisine, is located in a recently constructed strip mall adjacent to a natural foods store, gym, and office supply shop. It was a far cry from anything I had expected to find in Juárez, but my skepticism was quickly quashed.

The first of our six courses that afternoon featured shaved scallops topped with thinly sliced, marinated peaches and Hawaiian black sea salt. Over the next couple hours, subsequent dishes included grilled octopus with black chile and prosciutto, ravioli with corn elote and 74

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huitlacoche in smoked onion sauce, and ribeye with asparagus and a cauliflower cream.

To our surprise, Juárez hosts more fine-dining establishments than El Paso. In 2008, competing cartels went to war in Juárez and over the following years, violence escalated, but since 2012, a relative peace has returned, prompting upscale restaurants like Frarsa to open, creating an opportunity for people to return and reinvest in the community.

Due to the fact that everything is far cheaper on the Mexican side, many El Pasoans have grown accustomed to making the short trip across the border when they’re in the mood for a nice meal.

That night, we stayed in Juárez, but many tourists opt instead to come over for the day to enjoy some good food at greatly discounted prices, then return to El Paso. There are even tour operators who will pick up groups on the Mexican side of the border and tour them around to different restaurants and other attractions so visitors can avoid having to drive.

DAY 2: EL PASO The next morning, we were picked up at our hotel and dropped off at one of the many border crossings so that we could walk across to

Margaritas being served at the World Famous Kentucky Bar in Juárez.

El Paso. Because security had gotten much more restrictive over the previous weeks, traffic accumulated quickly, and it was often quicker to walk than drive.

After paying a small toll, we began our walk—nearly a quarter mile on the bridge over the Rio Grande separating the US from Mexico—past a sign reading “Feliz Viaje” or happy journey. For me, the crossing was a novelty. Feeling like the tourist that I was, I couldn’t help but watch the people singing for tips on the covered walkway or selling trinkets to passersby. I stopped to stare at the no-man's-land beneath us that had been fenced off as a buffer.

A little more than halfway across, we found ourselves in a long line leading to the customs checkpoint. As we waited, full of uncertainty and surreal apprehension, other people pushed past us to the front of the line. Where I was filled with wide-eyed wonder, they had a look of urgency and haste—comparable, I’m sure, to the look I have when battling Santa Fe morning traffic. For many of these people, this was a daily routine, politics be damned.

When we finally reached the front of the line, the agent appeared incredulous that as a food writer, I had been visiting Juárez on an assignment. He let me through anyway, but not without first having

to pay the excise tax on the bottle of sotol—Chihuahua’s take on tequila—I had acquired the previous night.

Once we were across the border, it was back to eating. Our next stop was Block Table & Tap, opened by the owners of Toro Burger, an El Paso favorite. Featuring southern comfort food with a hipster flair, a full bar, and diverse selection of draft beer, I could have easily never left. Dishes included a short rib hash, pumpkin waffle, and crab benedict, but what stole my heart was their chicken fried bacon. It may have taken a year or two off my life, but I have no regrets.

Finally, after thirty-six hours of delightful gluttony, it was time for a bit of exercise, if only to provide a slight break before our next voracious endeavor. Over the past several years, El Paso has made a concerted effort to invest in its downtown area. In addition to Southwest University Park, home of the AAA El Paso Chihuahuas that play in the same league as our Albuquerque Isotopes, downtown El Paso boasts a number of other features that appeal to locals and tourists alike. Six refurbished streetcars that ran between El Paso and Juárez during the 1950s now follow routes through El Paso. San Jacinto Plaza, which at one point contained a display of live alligators but has since replaced them with a commemorative WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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Top left, clockwise: Tap line at Block Tap & Table; chicken fried bacon at Toro Burger; view of El Paso from the balcony of the Hotel Indigo's bar; fig and goat cheese panna cotta with hazelnut praline at the One Region, One Table dinner.

statue, contains a large pavilion and plenty of shade trees to provide a break from the hot sun.

Throughout the downtown area, the city has also commissioned more than thirty-five public art projects that range from murals of endangered plants and animals to abstract sculptures to a WiFi-enabled touchscreen slideshow. The city also hosts events like Chalk the Block, an October arts festival where people are encouraged to draw on sidewalks throughout the city.

Like any major city, El Paso is home to its fair share of craft breweries as well. Established in 2013, DeadBeach Brewery has quickly emerged as a local favorite with beers like Abuela Stout, a high-alcohol brew made with Abuelita Mexican chocolate. DeadBeach also features a variety of saisons and farmhouse ales as well as a “golden” stout. And like many craft breweries, DeadBeach has taken steps to enmesh itself in the local community by collaborating with neighboring breweries like Border Brewing Company, based in Juárez, to highlight the comradery and goodwill that exists, not just within the brewing community, on both sides of the border.

Saturday night was the main event that had drawn us to El Paso and Juárez that weekend. The second annual One Region, One Table is an annual dinner designed to bring together restaurants and chefs from both sides of the border to put on a meal and highlight the region’s unified identity. Five courses, five chefs—two from Juárez, two from El Paso, and one from Las Cruces. “No one really understands the essence of the bicultural ground here,” noted Leonardo Diaz, executive chef at Maria 76

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Chuchena in Juárez. “We have the best of both worlds.” Norbert Portillo from Tabla in El Paso, added, “The media knows us because of violence, it’s up to us to change that.” Luke Roberts from the Double Eagle in Las Cruces agreed. “What better way to express diversity than through food.”

That night, in a packed room, the chefs served to a delighted crowd, putting modern twists on traditional dishes, like Roberts’ deconstructed posole featuring cured pork belly, or the slow-cooked beef tongue with sweet ancho chile sauce from Chef Jorge Muñiz Saenz from Flor de Nogal in Juárez. For dessert, Chef Jesús Martínez from Entrecote & Co. in El Paso presented a fig and goat cheese panna cotta with a hazelnut praline that provided the perfect cap on the meal.

Although few minds were likely changed that night and most people already shared this vision of an economically and culturally unified region, it was an undeniable reminder that when it comes to food, similarities across these cities and countries far outweigh the differences.

In many ways, our trip to El Paso and Juárez was an exercise in tunnel vision. We were there to eat and drink and experience as much as the region had to offer with little focus on other aspects. But this is likely not all too different from a trip to Chicago or St. Louis, where a few days might be spent touring museums, taking in a baseball game, eating sausage, or drinking a few beers. Experiences like these leave visitors with an essence of the city, and as we made the long drive back to Santa Fe—this time along I-25—the lasting impression was one of a cohesive region fighting to remain united.

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The Journey to Ardovino's A @TRAVELNEWMEXICO PHOTO ESSAY

By Stephanie Cameron, Caitlin Jenkins, and Amy Tishler

Amy Tishler

Walt Cameron

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Stephanie Cameron

n February (and again in May), I set off with edible writer Gabriella Marks, and Amy Tischler and Caitlin Jenkins, founders of @TravelNewMexico™ on Instagram, to discover what has become one of our new favorite destinations. @TravelNewMexico documents New Mexico road trips by inviting guest instagrammers to take over the account to share their unique experiences through imagery and stories. In the past, we have unearthed New Mexico’s unique gems of Silver City and Las Vegas. This year as I set to researching for our trip, only knowing we would be heading south, I stumbled upon a desert oasis that definitely fit our criteria, but that seemed too good to be true—Sunland Park.

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Caitlin Jenkins

I grew up in New Mexico but had never heard of Sunland Park, even on multiple trips to Juárez during my college days. On this journey, after weaving back and forth across New Mexico and Texas state lines, we found ourselves within the shadow of the fence at the Mexican border. You can read more about what we discovered in Sunland Park in the following pages, where Gabriella Marks reports on Ardovino’s Desert Crossing. But here, we illustrate our journey down south, sharing photos of all the discoveries we made along the way.

Thanks to @TravelNewMexico for a great road trip collaboration!

Follow them on Instagram as they post more about our trip.

The ROAD to Cruces

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1. Valley of Fires Recreation Area in the Tularosa Basin near Carrizozo.

2. Elephant Butte Lake State Park where camping, fishing, boating, and other outdoor activities are available. Be sure to grab a bite at Casa Taco (see page 58).

3. Sand castle at Elephant Butte.

4. White Sands National Monument in the northern Chihuahuan Desert.

5. Caitlin Jenkins with ZZQ BBQ and one of the many painted donkeys of Carrizozo. The donkeys can be found throughout the town in front of and inside many commercial establishments.

ZZQ BBQ is a bright red food truck at the crossroads of Carrizozo offering $2.50 Porky Ribz.

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1. Carne Asada Fries at Broken Spoke Taphouse in downtown Las Cruces.

2. Enjoying an Old Rough & Ready cocktail at the Amador Patio Bar & Grill in downtown Las Cruces.

3. Luchador food truck at one of the various events and venues around Las Cruces where it can be found (see page 62).

4. Little Toad Creek Distillery & Brewery in downtown Las Cruces.

5. Icebox Brewing Company, Las Cruces' newest brewery.

6. Crispy Chicken Lollipops at Amador Patio Bar & Grill.

7. Jax rooftop lounge at the Amador Live entertainment complex.

8. Mural in downtown Las Cruces.

Exploring Mesilla

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1. The ornate Imperial Bar at the Double Eagle restaurant in Mesilla.

2. Turquoise Margarita at the Imperial Bar in the Double Eagle.

3. Rainbow bread at Salud! de Mesilla.

4. Farmesilla, a farm-to-market enterprise, carries local veggies, meats, spirits, sundries, bath products, and much more from the region.

5. Muddled Heart cocktail made with pecan brandy at Dry Point Distillers.

6. Sangria Rita at La Posta de Mesilla.

7. Adobe Cantina y Tequileria at La Posta.

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4 From Mesilla to Sunland Park, you can take the scenic Highway 28 and enjoy an afternoon wine tour.

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1. La Viña Winery, New Mexico’s oldest winery.

2. Sombra Antigua Winery along Highway 28.

3. A glass of rosé at La Viña Winery.

4. D.H. Lescombes Winery & Bistro in Mesilla.

5. A glass of Chardonnay with lunch at D.H. Lescombes.

6. Zin Valle Vineyards across the state line in Canutillo, Texas.

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Sunland Park is a city on the borders of Texas and the Mexican state of Chihuahua, with Ciudad Juárez adjoining it on the south and El Paso, Texas, on the east.

1. Sunland Park Racetrack & Casino.

2. Watching the Kentucky Derby and drinking mint juleps during the live simulcast at Sunland Park Racetrack.

3. Landscape surrounding Ardovino's Desert Crossing Airbnb “Sweet 57” lodging.

4. Jenkins taking in the sunset at "Sweet 57."

5. Skydeck at Ardovino's overlooking the wall on the Mexican border.

6. Lush landscaping in the desert creates an oasis at Ardovino's.

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1. Wood-fired quail egg pizza.

2. Avocado Toast made with local sourdough, charred avocado, smoked salmon, poached estate egg, pickled garlic, citrus green house salad, and cotija.

3. Olive Roast with niçoise, picholine, and kalamata olives, rosemary, and orange-infused olive oil.

4. The night's special: ham roast with fava and lima beans.

5. Corn Agnolotti with fermented corn and ricotta–filled pasta, whey cream, grilled local mushrooms, salsa macha, textures of heirloom corn, and wild edibles.

6. Amuse-bouche with foraged edibles from the property.

7. Barbacoa Benny with beef barbacoa, fried sope, cilantro, hollandaise, and salsa macha.

Discovering Ardovino's Desert Crossing AN EXTRAORDINARILY ORIGINAL OASIS Story and Photos by Gabriella Marks

Left: Entrance to Ardovino's restaurant. Right: Skydeck overlooking the Mexican border.

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or many of us, a road trip is a relatively rare occasion. And depending on your penchant for planning, that may entail researching routes, browsing reviews, or previewing menus, all with the goal of maximizing every opportunity of the journey. As satisfying as it can be to parse all the data the internet

provides to design the perfect getaway, I’ve found that the most delightful moments are invariably the ones I haven’t planned. When an outstanding place or a meal is unexpected, the thrill of discovery displaces the anticipation of planning, and I’m living in the moment, having an adventure.

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Left to right: Cocktails served through bar window to the patio, clams with kimchi and wild edibles, Executive Chef Danny Calleros.

With that in mind, I’m tempted to tell you only the barest details about Ardovino’s Desert Crossing—just enough to get you heading south, destination mapped, so you can encounter each enchanting moment as it unfolds. So maybe the best tack is to share some of the history behind this magnificent property, and let your curiosity compel you to visit.

It all began with Great Uncle Frank. Originally from Italy, he lived for a short time in New York before heading west, young man, with the US cavalry, landing in the frontier town of El Paso. He was something of a debonair hustler, a man given to “the finer things in life: gambling, drinking, good food,” according to his grandniece, Marina Ardovino.

After she and her brother and business partner, Robert Ardovino, discovered as much as they could about Frank—from family lore, hiring a historian, and even scouring the partially complete file the FBI had kept on him (the specific report documenting his associations with Bugsy Seigel is suspiciously missing)—there is still some dispute on the details. For example, it remains unclear whether Great Uncle Frank had moved west voluntarily or been chased from the East, and eventually even from the relatively lawless early township of El Paso, as a consequence of his aptitude for hatching illicit schemes, which ranged from illegal gambling to working as a taxi driver who enticed his fares with prohibited alcohol kept in the trunk. But no matter the exact reason or cause, Frank found that the wide open desert landscape of the Southwest suited him, and in 1949 he purchased ninetyseven acres and the country home of a Swedish cosmetologist in the little sliver of New Mexico that meets the southwest corner of Texas bordering Mexico.

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At the time, the area known as Anapra (now called Sunland Park) was “a little town built by the Southern Pacific Railroad in the 1920s to house employees and their families, almost at the point where Doña Ana County meets the state of Texas at El Paso, and the state of Chihuahua at Juárez, Mexico,” according to Las Cruces author Paula Moore.

In those days, Texas was a dry state, so Frank was compelled to embark on his dream of opening an elegant Italian dining and gaming establishment for high rollers where he could pour spirits for his patrons. And although Frank lost or gambled away nearly two thirds of the land, he managed to hang on to thirty acres and the country home, which he transformed into what would become his family’s future destiny: Ardovino’s Roadside Inn. In those days, Juárez was a bustling urban center, frequented by Americans looking for entertainment and cheap divorces. Decades later, before Juárez was struck with drug violence, Marina Ardovino would joke that El Paso, Sunland Park, and Juárez should form their own union, companionate in feeling relatively disowned from their own states. To this day, many native born New Mexicans have never heard of Sunland Park (as Anapra eventually became named).

Today, in the seventieth anniversary year of the establishment, sister and brother team Marina and Robert carry on and expand upon their great uncle Frank’s original vision. Having been raised in a restaurant family, in their parents’ pizzeria in El Paso, the Ardovinos have lived and breathed the restaurant world since early childhood, napping under tables, then helping with bussing and waiting as they grew up. After brief stints in other professions—Marina as an Italian studies major with aspirations of leading tours in Italy, and Robert as a photogra-

Left to right: Chef Carlos Ortega showing off ferments, ocotillo flowers fermenting, grapefruit ferment.

phy graduate of the esteemed ArtCenter College of Design in Pasadena and a working Los Angeles photographer—their paths eventually converged back home, in 1994, at their birthplace of El Paso and their birthright of the then semi-abandoned Ardovino estate.

Following Frank’s passing in 1973, their father had held on to the property. There was sporadic use, but the place fell into disrepair. It took three years for Marina and Robert to bring it back to muster, with the help of family and friends. Once ready for visitors, they ramped up slowly, over five years’ time, from event venue to catering and finally to a destination fine-dining restaurant in the heart of the desert.

Originally home to a single restaurant, the property now includes a lounge, multiple dining rooms, a garden patio, and a separate banquet hall. They recently added an outdoor “skydeck” with three-hundred-sixty-degree views of Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico.

From points north in New Mexico, the route there takes you forty miles east of Las Cruces, through Texas, and then a mile or two after the off-ramp from I-10, back across the state line into New Mexico.

It’s a dry, dusty road heading to the foot of Mount Cristo Rey, and the stately driveway leading into Ardovino’s Desert Crossing. You might emerge from your vehicle a little fatigued from the road, a little disoriented by the lush landscaping of trees and flowering bushes, the melodic bird song and buzzing of bees. You might still be expecting the standard fare of the region—likely chicken enchiladas with red or green, rice and beans, and a cold cerveza.

And you would be in for quite the surprise.

In its original heyday, Ardovino’s was one of the few elegant, finedining establishments in the area. In Marina and Robert’s hands, this

concept has evolved into an innovative culinary experience. At its heart, this is still very much an Italian restaurant, serving up beautifully executed plates like Lamb Pappardelle, with Bakka Ranch braised lamb ragu, hazelnuts, pappardelle, house greens, and pecorino, and Corn Agnolotti, fermented corn and ricotta–filled pasta with whey cream, grilled local mushrooms, salsa macha, textures of heirloom corn, and wild edibles.

The dishes are as gorgeous as they are delicious, adorned with floral flourishes and edible aromatics grown on the grounds. And this is where the restaurant truly distinguishes itself. The current executive chef, Danny Calleros, began bussing tables there at seventeen.

Following a stage in South Carolina, he returned to share his passion for reinterpreting the classics with foraged and fermented ingredients.

Together with young chef Carlos Ortega, a self-taught mastermind of fermentation, he is bringing back a nearly forgotten heritage of curing meats and fermenting vinegars, garums, vegetables, and even proteins, with an insatiable appetite for re-introducing traditional regional ingredients using techniques popularized in recent years by world class restaurants like Copenhagen’s renown Noma.

For Robert, Marina, and Ardovino’s chefs, there is art in bringing new tastes to a region not necessarily known for culinary experimentation. Their method is to take a well known and beloved standby, like barbacoa, and introduce European techniques and presentation. This results in brunch dishes like Barbacoa Benny, beef barbacoa, fried sope, fresh cilantro and onion, hollandaise, salsa macha, and poached eggs, served with breakfast potatoes, and Avocado Toast, local sourdough with charred avocado, smoked salmon, poached estate egg, pickled garlic, citrus green house salad, and cotija.

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Left to right, clockwise: Marina and Robert Ardovino, “Sweet 57,” patio dining at Ardovino's.

Part of the magic of Ardovino’s Desert Crossing is that this is still very much a family run business with the red velvet booths, gold chairs, and extravagantly fragrant jasmine. As Marina describes it, “We are a family business with the structure of a corporate business—the discipline is every bit as important, but what we add to it is the humanity.”

of vintage trailers around the property perimeter attests, Robert is working to revive eight additional trailers as part of a master plan that includes an amphitheater, boutique hotel, and RV park—all within sight of the US-Mexico border. In part, this is a story of perseverance, humanity, and even beauty in the face of that fraught boundary.

Over the years, that humanity has manifested as a kind of cando, make-do approach to creating a sustainable oasis in the desert.

When they found it challenging to source fresh produce locally, they went bold, starting not only their own agricultural program and hiring farmers, but establishing in 2001 what is now one of the oldest weekly farmers markets in the state.

Perhaps what it most striking about Ardovino’s Desert Crossing is that the art of preserving a family tradition lies in culinary and environmental innovation—that the latter sustains the former in a process of ongoing reinvention.

And after Robert fell in love with the concept of vintage trailer court lodging at Bisbee, Arizona’s iconic The Shady Dell, he purchased his first vintage trailer on the drive back home. Thus began his pursuit of renovating vintage accommodations. Years of meticulous rebuilding and design resulted in the “Sweet 57,” their first lodging through Airbnb. As something of a nascent connoisseur of restored vintage trailers (like Hotel Luna Mystica of Taos and Marfa’s El Cosmico), I can attest to the exceptional attention to detail and finish that distinguishes the Sweet 57. And she is just the first. As the collection 88

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The Ardovinos have an extraordinary vision. If what they have achieved to date is any indication, together with their community of architects, landscape designers, farmers, and chefs, realizing it seems entirely possible. The classic definition of an oasis is a place that provides “refuge, relief, or pleasant contrast,” “a fertile or green area in an arid region.” The Ardovino family has poured their collective hearts and souls into creating a place that, by all measures, is a little otherworldly and fantastical. And yet it exists. One can only imagine and look forward to what it will become.

1 Ardovino Drive, Sunland Park, 575-589-0653, ardovinos.com

Saturday, October 19, 2019 10am - 4pm at the GutiĂŠrrez-Hubbell House

Join us at the fourth annual Fermentation Fest to explore cider, wine, pickels, kraut, salami, beer, cheese, spirits, kombucha, kefir, sourdough, mead, hot sauce, sake, kimchi, koji, coffee, chocolate, and more.

Tickets will go on sale July 1, 2019.

Proceeds benefit the Hubbell House Alliance and the Bernco Quality of Life Community Fund.

edible

nmfermentationfest.com

Thank you to our Chefs Collaborative members who are

OWL PEAK FARM

Dolina chefscollaborative.org

Interested in becoming a member, contact stephanie@ediblenm.com.

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The Parador

Our 200-year-old farmhouse, Santa Fe's oldest inn, is located in historic downtown Santa Fe. 220 West Manhattan, Santa Fe, 505-988-1177, elparadero.com

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Andaluz, short for Andalusian, evokes the passion and pride of the region of Spain that has inspired the hotel’s decor and architectural style. 125 Second Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz.com

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400 San Felipe NW, Albuquerque, 505-350-0412, facebook.com/BlueMoonNM

Creative Culture

Specializing in exotic paper, greeting cards, art supplies, and unique gifts. A makers’ paradise. 3001 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque, 505-200-2785

Gallery Ethnica

Live globally! 1301 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-557-6654, galleryethnica.com

Honey + Harlo

colombian bistro

now open

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www.ajiacobistro.com Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients.

We create natural skin care products that are safe for all skin types. honeyandharlo.com

Kitchenality

TRIFECTA

Irresistible and gently used gourmet cooking and entertaining ware. All store profits go to Kitchen Angels. 1222 Siler, Santa Fe, 505-471-7780, kitchenangels.org

COFFEE COMPANY

Next Best Thing to Being There

An eclectic shop for handmade products.

1315 Mountain NW, Albuquerque, 505-433-3204, beingthereabq.com

Sarabande Home

We have a passion for finding the perfect gift. 4022 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque, 505-344-1253, sarabandehome.com

Tin-Nee-Ann Trading Co.

Family operated and family friendly since 1973. 923 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-988-1630 facebook.com/TinNeeAnn

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

Genuine Food & Drink Enchanting, Dusty...

Wild West Style 28 MAIN STREET LOS CERRILLOS 505.438.1821 Thursday - Sunday blackbirdsaloon.com

The Golden Eye

WINE STORES 218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe, 505-9832100, arroyovino.com

Parcht

103 East Plaza, Taos, 575-758-1994, parcht.com

Susan's Fine Wine and Spirits

1005 S St. Francis, Santa Fe, 505-984-1582, sfwineandspirits.com

AN

S

Arroyo Vino

Barrio Brinery co

Located in Santa Fe, we offer 18 karat and 22 karat gold jewelry handmade by local artisans. 115 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, 505-984-0040, goldeneyesantafe.com

i TA ex FE z New M

Santa Fe's source for fine fermented foods. Our lacto-fermented pickles, sauerkraut, and escabeche are hand-crafted in small batches.

1413-B West Alameda, Santa Fe www.barriobrinery.com ∙ 505-699-9812

FERMEN TS

KOMBUCHA

. Local . Fresh . Probiotic .

newmexicoferments.com

E A T & DRI N K LOCAL G UID E 100% USAEEF B GRASS-FED

seasonal • local • organic 218 Gold Ave SW, ABQ 505-265-4933 hartfordsq.com

ALBUQUERQUE

Ajiaco Colombian Bistro

Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by the diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. 3216 Silver SE, 505-2662305, ajiacobistro.com

Artichoke Café

Fresh, local, seasonal ingredients, classic French techniques, extensive wine list, private dining, catering, and great atmosphere. 424 Central SE, 505-243-0200, artichokecafe.com

Campo at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

Rio Grande Valley cuisine rooted in seasonal organic ingredients from our own farm. 4803 Rio Grande NW, 505-344-9297, lospoblanos.com

Cutbow Coffee

The culmination of more than 25 years' experience by one of the nation's most accomplished artisan coffee roasters, Paul Gallegos.

1208 Rio Grande NW, 505-355-5563, cutbowcoffee.com

Farina

11225 Montgomery and 5600 Coors NW, eatgrassburger.com

413 Montano NE, 505-803-7579, trifectacoffeecompany.com

Cozy, downtown eatery; local, organic, and seasonal menu. Breakfast, brunch, lunch, & dinner-to-go. 218 Gold SW, 505-265-4933, hartfordsq.com

A three-level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine and late night bar bites.

3009 Central NE, 505-254-9462, zincabq.com

Serving authentic wood oven pizza in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Multiple locations in Albuquerque and Santa Fe. ilvicino.com

SANTA FE

Hartford Square

Il Vicino

MAS Tapas y Vino

MÁS is a full-service restaurant and tapas bar located in the Hotel Andaluz, 125 Second Street NW, Albuquerque, 505-388-0088, hotelandaluz.com/mas-tapas-y-vino

Salt and Board

Salt and Board, a charcuterie-based cork and tap room in the heart of the Brick Light District. 115 Harvard SE, 505-219-2001, saltandboard.com

Savoy Bar & Grill

California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining and a casual patio. 10601 Montgomery NE, 505-294-9463, savoyabq.com

Starting with the finest organic flour, our pizza crusts are made by hand and topped with the freshest ingredients, including artisan cured meats. 510 Central SE, 505243-0130, farinapizzeria.com

Seasons Rotisserie & Grill

Farina Alto

The Grove Cafe & Market

Farina Alto offers fresh, creative fare. Gather over a glass of wine, a good story, and a phenomenal plate of food.

10721 Montgomery NE, 505-298-0035, farinaalto.com

Farm & Table

Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm. 8917 Fourth Street NW, 505-503-7124, farmandtablenm.com

Grassburger

The feel-good, award-winning burger— 100% grassfed beef, vegan, or poultry!

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South Indian cuisine

Oak-fired grill, local and seasonal ingredients, and the best patio dining in Old Town.

2031 Mountain NW, 505-766-5100, seasonsabq.com The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch, and lunch.

600 Central SE, 505-248-9800, thegrovecafemarket.com

Zinc Restaurant & Wine Bar

Anasazi Restaurant & Bar

Contemporary American cuisine inspired by locally sourced seasonal ingredients.

113 Washington, 505-988-3030, innoftheanasazi.com

Arable

Inspired by the bounty of New Mexico, and the small community of Eldorado, Arable was born. 7 Avenida Vista Grande, 505-303-3816, arablesantafe.com

Arroyo Vino

We serve progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors. 218 Camino La Tierra, 505-983-2100, arroyovino.com

Blue Heron Restaurant

Lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch overlooking the tranquil pond at the Blue Heron.

242 Los Pinos, 877-977-8212, sunrisesprings.com

Dinner for Two

Elegant bistro known for tableside preparations, plus a menu of locally sourced fare, and global wines. 106 N Guadalupe, 505820-2075, dinnerfortwonm.com

The Shop Breakfast & Lunch

Dolina

Trifecta Coffee Company

Dr. Field Goods Kitchen / Butcher Shop & Bakery

Latin and creole influenced spin on American classics. Serving breakfast and lunch Tuesday through Saturday. 2933 Monte Vista NE, 505-433-2795

We serve modern American brunch with Eastern European influences. Open 7 days a week. 402 N Guadalupe, 505-982-9394, dolinasantafe.com

We roast coffee and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available.

All of our baked goods are made in house.

2860 Cerrillos, 505-471-0043 & 505-4746081, drfieldgoods.com

E A T & DRI N K LOCAL G UID E

Creative Casual Cuisine 221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish.

Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.

FISH N CHIPS Now available @

RUFINA TAPROOM Eloisa

Posa’s Restaurants

Iconik Coffee Roasters

Radish & Rye

Creative, elevated takes on traditional New Mexican fare plus tasting menus and craft cocktails. 228 E Palace, 505-982-0883, eloisasantafe.com Come visit the best specialty coffee shop in Santa Fe with amazing food, unique coffees roasted onsite, and super fast high-speed internet. 314 S Guadalupe and 1600 Lena, 505-428-0996, iconikcoffee.com

Il Piatto

An authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms and ranches. 95 West Marcy, 505-984-1091, ilpiattosantafe.com

La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza Authentic New Mexican cuisine, awardwinning wine list, and impeccable service.

100 E San Francisco, 505-995-2334, lafondasantafe.com/la-plazuela

Loyal Hound

Locally sourced modern comfort food paired with craft beer, cider, and wine. 730 St. Michaels, 505-471-0440, loyalhoundpub.com

Madame Matisse

A cafe and bakery with French specialties.

1291 San Felipe, 505-204-7869, madamematisse.com

Market Steer Steakhouse

Where refined dining meets fun dining.

210 Don Gaspar in the Hotel St. Francis, 505-992-6354, marketsteersteakhouse.com

Ohori's Coffee Roasters

The original source for locally roasted coffee beans, gifts, and gathering. 505 Cerrillos and 1098 St. Francis, 505-982-9692, 507 Old Santa Fe Trail, ohoriscoffee.com

Paper Dosa

Bringing fresh, authentic homestyle South Indian dishes to your table. These bright and exciting flavors will leave you wanting more.

551 W Cordova, 505-930-5521, paper-dosa.com

Posa’s tamales—our New Mexican tradition since 1995. 1514 Rodeo and 3538 Zafarano, 505-820-7672 or 505-473-3454, santafetamales.com Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. 548 Agua Fria, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com

Red Sage

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. 20 Buffalo Thunder Trail, 505-819-2056, buffalothunderresort.com

Second Street Brewery

Over sixty handcrafted beers, food, music, and events. Three locations in Santa Fe. secondstreetbrewery.com

Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen

Discover Sweetwater Dinner—Tuesday through Saturday. 1512 Pacheco, 505-795-7383, sweetwatersf.com

TerraCotta

Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list.

304 Johnson, 505-989-1166, terracottawinebistro.com

The Compound Restaurant

Chef Mark Kiffin preserves a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution. 653 Canyon Road, 505-982-4353, compoundrestaurant.com

GREATER NEW MEXICO Black Bird Saloon

Genuine food and drink, wild west style.

28 Main Street, Los Cerrillos, 505-438-1821, blackbirdsaloon.com

Black Mesa Winery

Black Mesa Winery is an award-winning New Mexican winery using only New Mexican grapes. 1502 Highway 68, Velarde, 505-8522820, blackmesawinery.com

Blades’ Bistro

Chef and owner Kevin Bladergroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish.

221 Highway 165, Placitas, 505-771-0695, bladesbistro.com

Europa

A new concept by Peculiar Farms. 2105 Highway 314 NW, Los Lunas, 505-261-3605, facebook.com/europacafeandmarket

Michael's Kitchen Restaurant and Bakery

Regionally inspired eats with a tongue-incheek menu in a casual space decorated with knickknacks. 304-C N Pueblo, Taos, 575-758-4178, michaelskitchen.com

Pajarito Brewpub & Grill

Open for lunch Tuesday–Sunday. Open for dinner every day. Happy hour Tuesday– Sunday 2–5pm. 30 craft beers on tap.

614 Trinity, Los Alamos, 505-662-8877, pajaritobrewpubandgrill.com

Parcht

/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-1994, parcht.com

Revel

Farm to table, elevated comfort food, in a fast-casual environment. 304 N Bullard, Silver City, 575-388-4920, eatdrinkrevel.com

The Gorge: Bar and Grill

Our menu is straightforward, yet eclectic, and chock-full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible. 103 E Plaza, 575-758-8866, thegorgebarandgrill.com

The Skillet

American, southwest, vegetarian friendly.

619 12th Street, Las Vegas, 505-563-0477, giant-skillet.com WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

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#EDIBLENM EdibleNewMexico TAG us or use #edibleNM and your pics could be featured here. We always pick a favorite and send them a gift certificate to one of our favorite local joints.

WINNER

_nobunintended_ Sixty Six Acres is one of Albuquerque’s newest restaurants - Named for the 66 acres of land the restaurant sits on. Its owner is not new to Abq. Myra Ghattas, who owns Slate Street Cafe, has finally opened her new restaurant and it is D I V I N E. #edibleNM

sffoodinista Let me tell you! This is how you do Enchiladas in Santa Fe, New Mexico, or anywhere actually! Blue Corn Stacked Enchiladas with Chicken, Cheese, a side of Beans and Posole! Lunch at The Shed in Santa Fe! #edibleNM

freshthingsfirst Spring Market Pizza. Remember that parsley pesto from yesterday? I used it as the base for this pizza last night. #edibleNM

newmexicobeer If you’re having the Monday Blues...we recommend this. #happyearthday #edibleNM

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edible New Mexico | EARLY SUMMER 2019

NORTHEAST HEIGHTS

HISTORIC NOB HILL 505.254.ZINC(9462) WWW.ZINCABQ.COM

LIVE MUSIC THU/SAT

✷ THE DESTINATION FOR THE BEST IN FOOD & WINE W E E K LY W I N E S E M I N A R S WINE DINNERS & MORE

ARROYOVINO.COM 505.983.2100 7 Y E A R S I N S A N TA F E