Late Summer 2016: Innovation

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Local Food, Season









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The Story









The Girl of the Golden West

Robert Godwin photo

Roméo et Juliette




Don Giovanni










First-Time Buyers who are NM Residents

SAVE 40% Call for details!

The 60 th anniversary season is filled with powerful love stories, including Puccini’s The Girl of the Golden West. This Gold Rush-era story, set in Minnie’s saloon, inspired a multitude of western films. Join us to experience one of the most unique performance settings ever created. Arrive early with a tailgate supper to enjoy the sunset and mountain views.


Ask about a special offer for Opera guests.









GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook

39 COOKING FRESH Innovation by Amelia White






It Takes a Hive by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher

EDIBLE COMMUNITY Art and Food by Amanda Grant









Inspiration from the Garden by Candolin Cook A Recipe for Sustainability by Natalie Bovis Spain in the Wine by Cameron Weber Farming the Living Earth by Rebecca Briggs and Thea Maria Carlson

The STory


LocaL food, SeaSon



Grilled Shrimp Cocktail by Enrique Guerrero

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FEATURES 50 SHRIMP The Fabric of Our Lives by Willy Carleton

56 CUP APPEAL Third Wave Coffee Energizes Downtown Albuquerque by Nora Hickey
















Cheryl Alters Jamison, Rasa Kitchen + Juice, The Grove Café, Fire & Hops








Green chile cheeseburger. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

62 FRUIT FORWARD Freshies Farm by Mark DeRespinis

68 BUILDING COMMUNITY CREATIVELY Silver Street Market, Green Jeans Farmery, Winrock Town Center by Laura Jean Schneider

74 MAPPING LOCAL FOOD SYSTEMS Food Environment and Education Database Project (Project FEED) by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

Sometime in the early 1880s, some miners outside of Silver City discovered that placing a fried egg on top of red chile enchiladas added to the deliciousness of the already-famous New Mexico dish. Or so later claimed one of the state’s most influential food innovators, Dr. Fabian Garcia, who throughout the early twentieth century led breeding experiments on a wide range of agricultural crops including the iconic chile. From the chile to the enchilada, the food of New Mexico, according to Garcia, was deeply rooted and ever-changing, always subject to improvements in the kitchens, campfire pots, farm fields, and laboratories of the state. The food traditions of our state, then and now, lay testimony to a deep and rich history of innovation. While innovation is most commonly associated with cutting-edge technology or an intellectual or methodological breakthrough, innovators often simply take an existing idea or method and apply it in a new way or location. In this issue, we look at food innovators in New Mexico who are thinking outside of the box to enrich the state’s food culture and cuisine, and address economic, environmental, and technological needs. They say necessity is the mother of invention, and New Mexican entrepreneurs have deemed it necessary to band together in innovative ways to bolster business and revitalize landscapes.Throughout the issue, food and community come together in unexpected ways: restaurants are crowdsourced, artists promote local farms, and a plaza made out of repurposed shipping containers creates a space conducive to neighborhood interaction and eating local. From high-desert shrimp farming and high-tunnel tree fruit production to third wave coffee and mapping software that deciphers data related to local food and health issues, New Mexicans are taking advantage of the latest in research, technology, and creative thinking to transform the terrain and tackle the status quo. We invite you to explore these transformations in our local food systems and to consider how they might shape, for better or worse, the future of food in our state. We hope the innovations in this issue inspire more critical thinking, more unexpected solutions to the difficult problems we face, and, while we’re at it, many more creative meals.

Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook, Editors

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

Winner of James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Publication of the Year


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Candolin Cook



COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Briana Olson

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTOGRAPHY Wendy Borger, Christopher Bassett, Stephanie Cameron, Willy Carleton, Eric Martinez, Nathaniel Paolinelli

EVENT COORDINATORS Natalie Donnelly and Gina Riccobono



CONTACT US 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 Phone/Fax: 505-212-0791

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-212-0791 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year. We distribute throughout central and northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at American Web Denver, Colorado No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2016 All rights reserved.

#EDIBLENM ediblesantafe TAG us or use #ediblenm and your Instagram pics could be featured here. We pick our two favorites every issue. #WeLoveOurReaders

thewildandthetamed Ephemeral and so sweet; seems to be the way of many, and certainly is of the Mulberry. Black and white mulberry tart with chocolate and ginger cashew "creme" patisserie, and an orange peel & almond flour crust. #ediblenm

Locally Brewed Belgian-Style Beer with Artful Hospitality from the Old World immalittlebunny Homemade Baked Tamale and Oaxacan Style Mole with local sautéed greens and sweet corn. Topped with red chile mole and finished with a farm fresh fried egg and crème fraîche. Thank you, Love Apple. @ediblesantafe


CONTRIBUTORS NATALIE BOVIS Natalie Bovis founded, Santa Fe Cocktail Week, and New Mexico Cocktails & Culture festival (June 2016), and she co-founded OM Organic Mixology Liqueurs. She hosts Digging In: A Recipe for Sustainability, an edible Santa Fe video program, and has authored three cocktail books, including Edible Cocktails: Garden-ToGlass. A bar consultant and spirits educator, she was named one of four women leading the liquor industry by WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton lives in Albuquerque and is an avid vegetable grower, forager, and editor of edible Santa Fe. He is writing a dissertation on the agricultural history of twentieth-century New Mexico in the history department at the University of New Mexico. CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral student at the University of New Mexico and an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review. She spends much of her free time growing flowers and washing radishes at her husband’s vegetable farm, Vida Verde Farm, in Albuquerque's North Valley. Come check out their booth at the Downtown Growers Market, and follow her farm life on Instagram: @candolin and @vidaverdefarmabq. MARK DERESPINIS Mark DeRespinis is a farmer, photographic artist, foodie, and proud father. He encourages everyone to celebrate seasonal and local abundance every day in a new, or old, or really any old way. AMANDA GRANT Amanda Grant earned a dual degree in environmental science and policy and geology from the College of William and Mary, and a graduate degree in environmental science and policy from Northern Arizona University. She loves living in Taos for both the winter ski season and the summer rafting season, and also spends time gardening, making curry, and baking zucchini bread.


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NORA HICKEY Nora Hickey is a writer and teacher living in Albuquerque. Her work has appeared in Narrative, the Massachusetts Review, Guernica, DIAGRAM, and other journals. She is a member of the Dirt City writers collective and teaches at the University of New Mexico and Santa Fe University of Art and Design. LAURA JEAN SCHNEIDER Laura Jean Schneider lives on the Mescalero Apache Reservation in Ruidoso. Her writing has appeared in the Montana Quarterly and New Mexico Magazine, and on The Writer magazine's website. She is the author of “Ranch Diaries,” a bi-monthly web series for High Country News about working ranch life. Find her at CAMERON WEBER Cameron Weber is a conservation planner with the Institute for Applied Ecology living in Albuquerque. Her focus is on using native plants to reduce bare ground in New Mexico. She learned to make wine on a small farm and now advocates for wine curiosity. SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER Sarah Wentzel-Fisher works for the Rio Grande Farmers Coalition and the Quivira Coalition New Agrarian Program, and wants you (yes, all of you) to consider growing food. In her free time she visits farms (she highly recommends this activity), experiments in her kitchen, and keeps chickens in her backyard. AMY WHITE Amy White recently relocated to her hometown of Seattle, where she inherited a garden with a mysterious plant that turned out to be a cardoon! Although she misses New Mexico terribly, she's enjoying exploring a whole new world of foraging, fishing, gardening, and farmers markets. She still writes about her fervent love for vegetables at

Take a journey between past, present, and future Indigenous artistic expressions. Explore Native works that narrate the artists’ own histories, explore their self-definition, and act as a catalyst for change.


505 476-1269 · · On Museum Hill in Santa Fe Jason Garcia, Tewa Tales of Suspense No. 3 (detail), 2015. Photo by Blair Clark. Museum purchase 59469.

LOCAL HEROES Every year edible Santa Fe recognizes a group of amazing individuals and organizations for their work to create a healthy, sustainable food system in New Mexico. We determine these Local Hero awards through reader nomination and a reader poll. The local food movement is a grassroots effort that often involves late nights, backbreaking work, getting your hands

dirty, checking your ego at the door, and generally being a good sport. In an effort to showcase these individuals, organizations, and businesses for their work to build a stronger local economy and a robust local food system, each issue of edible spotlights several of the winners and the work they do.

Cheryl Alters Jamison BEST FOOD WRITER

Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

Cheryl Alters Jamison is an award-winning author, contributor for New Mexico Magazine, and host of “Heating It Up: Exciting Food Talk” on KVSF 101.5 (Hutton Broadcasting). She has helped introduce the food of New Mexico to the world through her prose for three decades. When she’s not writing, she acts as director for Santa Fe nonprofit Cooking with Kids, cooks for family and friends, gardens, travels, and wrangles chickens. We caught up with Jamison to find out more about her writing and her passion for local food. How did you become a food writer? Bill [my husband] was writing about travel, and I got somewhat pulled into that. Our writing, whether about Santa Fe, Mexico, the Caribbean, or elsewhere, always included a lot about food, because it's one of 6

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the the most direct ways to experience another culture. We wrote the original Rancho de Chimayo Cookbook for the Jaramillo family back in the early 1990s, seeing it as an extension of our writing about the area. We decided it would be nice to do one more cookbook on an area we knew well, which resulted in Texas Home Cooking (1993). We learned so much about BBQ during that research that we thought we needed to write one more cookbook. At the time—-and this is sort of unbelievable now, given BBQ and outdoor cooking's current popularity—we saw ourselves as chronicling a dying art. That book, Smoke & Spice (1994), won us our first James Beard award (of four), has stayed in print for more than twenty years, and has sold over a million copies. At that point, we looked at each other and said, hmmm, this food writing seems to be working out pretty well.



LOCAL HEROES Most people are surprised to learn that I have no culinary training. I just learned to cook like people used to, with my grandmothers and, to some extent, with my mother and father. I loved the process but never thought of it as something to do professionally. When I was in school and choosing a career direction, [cooking] was way too "home ec" and "Betty Crocker." I just gravitated to food and its preparation, so I taught myself everything I could about it over many years. I never would have thought I'd be doing something professional in the culinary field. If I weren't doing what I’m doing now, I'd be running a nonprofit arts organization. I actually have a master’s degree in doing just that. What do you love most about local food? I love the personal connection with the growers or producers, its freshness and flavor, and the feeling of being able to directly support the local economy.

Is there anything you'd like to share with edible readers? As many of you may know, I lost my husband, business partner, and co-author Bill to cancer in 2015. I have been completely stunned with the level of personal and professional support I have received from friends and acquaintances throughout the extended food and media communities. I will be forever grateful. I also plan to keep up the food writing and radio show hosting. What makes you laugh? A lot of things. I strongly believe that you have to be able to find the humor in life, so not to get overwhelmed by the difficulties. You have to be able to laugh at yourself, too. You can be serious about your work without taking yourself too seriously. What gets you fired up?

Are you willing to share your weirdest food quirk?

Cooking for friends and family and bringing people together around the table. I love all aspects of it—selecting the food, preparing it, sharing it, the conversations that result, the camaraderie that develops. I have to honestly say that, since my husband's death, this has been more the elusive goal than the reality, but I am getting back to the point where it feels good again. It's been a goal that has kept me moving forward during a dark time.

Probably that I like Cheetos—but only on road trips.

Visit Jamison at

What are the world’s best food cities? At the top of my list are Santa Fe, Paris and Nice, San Francisco, New Orleans, Chicago, Los Angeles, Charleston, Washington DC, Hue (Vietnam), San Sebastián (Spain), Singapore, South Africa's wine country, and Lima—OMG!—Lima.

Jamison's chickens. Photo by Stephanie Cameron. 8

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Top left, clockwise: Rasa's Asian plate; raw, organic, and vegan chocolate layer cake; house-made tree nut cheeses; and Bahian soup with coconut milk, chile oil, lime, and market greens. Photos by Wendy Borger.


What do you love most about local food?


Local foods connect us with the history, traditions, and culture of a place in a way that nothing else really can. Memories and connections are cultivated by enjoying the food specific to where we live and to the places we visit. It was so easy to fall in love with the flavors of northern New Mexico. My favorite time of year here is around the chile harvest, when the air is full of the fragrance of open fires and roasting chiles. Quintessential Santa Fe!

Rasa is a modern cafĂŠ in the truest sense, offering innovative food choices that reflect the most current and progressive thinking surrounding Ayurvedic and plant-based cuisine. Wendy Borger, owner and creative director of Rasa, tells edible about her business and passion.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016

What’s Rasa’s backstory, and what was the moment that brought you to your current work? The simple desire to have a local eatery that served delicious, organic, plant-based foods is really Rasa’s backstory. I had been spending a lot of time in California and got so excited by the innovators in the plant-based food movement. LA is home to nearly one hundred vegan restaurants, and many of them are very upscale, successful establishments. I realized that if I wanted to have that kind of restaurant here in Santa Fe, I was going to have to create that place myself. What question do people always ask you? And what do you wish they’d ask instead? People often ask me what they can't eat if they transition to a plant-based diet. But I wish that they would ask about all the wonderful foods they can enjoy even when choosing a much healthier and more conscious way to eat. If you evolve your perspective and experiment with ingredients, you will find that a plant-based diet offers endless possibilities. If you knew you wouldn’t fail, what would you try? This is an interesting question because it invites the contemplation of what we each consider to be failure. I honestly have never undertaken anything with the notion of encountering success or failure. Cultivating a positive experience or an enjoyment of the process seems vastly more important to me. What makes you laugh? Just about anything. Laughter is so therapeutic and has the potential to heal. It's also contagious, so when we laugh together we can create spontaneous moments of connection to one another. What gets you fired up? I get fired up about the undeniable connection of conscious eating and environmental issues. Moving towards sustainable food sources is as essential to our planet's healthy future as is moving away from fossil fuels. What else are you involved in?

Is there anything you'd like to share with edible readers? I'd like to share a sincere invitation to come in and experience Rasa. I know that some folks can be off put by the idea of healthy food, but we have taken the time to create wonderful dishes with complex and appealing flavor profiles that appeal to all sorts of foodies.



In addition to Rasa, I'm an Ayurvedic practitioner with a private practice and a yogi and yoga teacher. Over the past year or so I've rekindled my deep love of photography. I studied photography in college and I've always shot tons of pictures. A friend recently turned me on to the vibrant virtual art space of Instagram. Building my own photo gallery and connecting with other photographers, artists, and enthusiasts has been quite wonderful.



Photo by Nathaniel Paolinelli.

The Grove Café & Market

BEST CAFÉ, ALBUQUERQUE: AN INTERVIEW WITH JASON & LAUREN GREENE Lauren and Jason Greene, the husband and wife team behind The Grove Café & Market, deserve all the accolades they get and then some, especially when it comes to raising the culinary culture bar in Albuquerque. Jason, a graduate of New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont, brings Southern sensibilities to a meticulously curated menu of local and seasonal fare. Lauren masterminds the customer experience, making sure even the smallest details fit a carefully cultivated ambiance in their bright, welcoming dining room. Since opening their doors in 2006, Lauren and Jason have created a space where the community comes together to enjoy superb culinary products and to relax with their friends and family.

and simply to make people happy. The Grove has allowed us to do this since 2006. We knew it was the right thing to do on a trip to Albuquerque in 2005, when we were looking for a place to brunch. We found our current location on the same trip, and knew it was meant to be.

What do you love most about local food?

Lauren: Wake up late, drink two cups of coffee, head out for a hike, have lunch somewhere yummy, go back home, tend to the garden, have a glass of wine on the patio, and have my sweet husband cook me a simple dinner.

L&J: The relationships with our farmers, the quality of the food they grow, and knowing where our food comes from. We love supporting and recognizing our local farmers on our menu and teaching our customers about why local food simply tastes better! Jason: Growing up in the South taught me about cooking with local and simple ingredients. Farmers markets were cool in the South a long time ago. I love the traditions of cooking in the South, and the classic recipes that are carried on from generation to generation. How did you get to where you are now? L&J: We have been in the hospitality industry since college. It is our true passion in life to serve great food in an awesome atmosphere, 12

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What would you being doing if you didn’t own The Grove? Lauren: If I weren't doing what I’m doing now, I'd be living on an island, working an enjoyable job, raising my beach bum family. Jason: I would be selling fish tacos on the beach, same island. Best way to spend a day off?

Jason: Anything with my kiddos and my wife. What else are you involved in? L&J: Lauren sits on the EDo downtown board, dedicated to growth and positive urban development in The Grove's neighborhood. We work closely with the community, are involved with many foodie events, and have constant involvement with our local farmers. Mostly, we spend time with our two young children and our families.




Fire & Hops

Left to right: Joel Coleman and Josh Johns.

BEST PUB: AN INTERVIEW WITH JOSH JOHNS AND JOEL COLEMAN Josh Johns and Joel Coleman created Fire & Hops in 2014 inside a quaint one-hundred-seven-year-old adobe on Santa Fe’s Guadalupe Street. A big part of the restaurant’s success has been the duo’s commitment to keeping up with what customers want. They are committed to seasonality and rotate the majority of their menu, which includes both small plates and full dinners, based on regional sources whenever possible. During the spring and summer months, about sixty percent of Coleman’s ingredients come from local farmers. Both Coleman and Johns are dedicated to keeping the gastropub concept alive at Fire & Hops. “I think we offer offer the true definition of gastropub—basically really high-quality food, high-quality drink, and a gathering place,” says Coleman. What do you love most about local food? Why? Johns: Supporting local farms and ranches. The sustainability. Freshness. Coleman: It's simple. It's fresher and tastes better. And I also prefer to support local farmers whenever possible. It's a little more work, but worth it. How did you get where you are now? Johns: Doing just about everything in the restaurant business. Dishes, cooking, hosting, bartending, waiting tables, and managing. What would you be doing if you weren’t working in the food industry? Johns: If I weren't doing what I’m doing now, I'd be travelling.

Coleman: Growing up in Hawaii and New Mexico taught me the importance of family and community, and working together. Hawaii also had a big influence on my cooking, and helped me maintain an easygoing personality—for the most part. What is the best way to spend a day off? Coleman: Usually trying to do as little as possible. In the winter, I try to get up on the mountain as much as possible to snowboard. Where are your favorite food cities? Coleman: Torn between Barcelona and Bangkok. And if I had the chance, I would have lunch with David Kinch at any noodle spot in Vietnam. I'd just like to pick his brain and hang out for a bit, over a bowl of noodles. If you knew you wouldn’t fail, what would you try? Coleman: Short answer, ninja/Jedi. Long answer, I would try my hand at being a music producer again. That was my first love, before cooking. But music and food are still everything to me. What gets you fired up? Why? Coleman: Lack of organization, lack of integrity, and people hopping on dietary bandwagons. Those are the first few things that popped in my head. What makes you laugh? Johns: People and the stories they tell. Everyone's got a few.

Where did you grow up, and what did it teach you?

Coleman: My cooks make me laugh all the time. Not only are they hardworking, but they also have a great sense of humor, and they help keep me sane, or at least mostly sane.

Johns: Growing up in New York taught me a strong work ethic.

Coleman: I'd be a music producer.


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it’s closer than you think.. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.




Vida Verde Farm in Albuquerque, NM.


. .truly local.

EDIBLE NOTABLES FIRST-EVER NEW MEXICO TRUE FEST WILL TAKE PLACE LABOR DAY WEEKEND The New Mexico Tourism Department partners with Expo New Mexico to host the first-ever New Mexico True Fest, a showcase for New Mexico products, food, and entertainment, on Labor Day weekend, September 3–4. The event is held in conjunction with the New Mexico Wine & Jazz Festival on the fairgrounds at Expo New Mexico in Albuquerque. “The New Mexico True campaign is a celebration of everything about our state that is unique, different, and special,” said Rebecca Latham, tourism department cabinet secretary. New Mexico True Fest will feature local entertainment, arts and artisans, a farmers market, food trucks, travel information, giveaways, classes and demonstrations, craft beers, and local wines. At the center of the festival are the products and businesses enrolled in the New Mexico True Certified program. “The festival connects people to the products that are made, or born and raised, in our own backyard,” said Latham. “In addition to hosting the best and biggest local events, promoting homegrown industries, from agriculture to the arts, is part of our mission at Expo New Mexico,” stated Dan Mourning, general manager of Expo NM. “Not to mention that we are experts in fun, which is why the Reithoffer Carnival will also be part of our celebration of New Mexico, opening the midway for most rides on both days of the festival.”

smoking inspired his lifelong passion for honoring those crafts and sharing them with others. Ruebush began his career in the restaurant business in a rather unorthodox way. After graduating from NMSU with a degree in vocal performance, he moved to New York City to pursue a career as an opera singer. There, he took his first restaurant job as a bartender. Before long, he was hanging around the kitchen and doing prep work for the chef during slow day shifts. “I learned my knife skills and most of the basics completely by accident. Looking back, those hours in the basement at Rocking Horse Café were the happiest times I spent in the city.” Coincidentally, during that time a new television station appeared: Food Network. “As corny or cliché as it sounds,” he says, “watching Mario Batali and Emeril Lagasse, and feeling the passion that they have for food and cooking, reminded me of my family and how important food was to me.” In 2008, Ruebush met Camille Bremer. The two found that they shared a passion for food, service, and the restaurant industry, and they began to plan for their own restaurant. Their approach was methodical: Ruebush gained experience by working every back-of-house position in Albuquerque’s busiest restaurants, while Bremer focused on front-of-house hospitality, until they were confident they knew the business thoroughly and could create something unique for diners. Taking the helm of the kitchen at Radish & Rye is a dream come true for Ruebush. Having the opportunity to work with local farmers to create simple and fresh dishes is a huge part of the restaurant’s mission. “I know how hard farmers work,” Ruebush explains. “I’ve picked corn all day, and I watched my papa leave the house before the sun was up to climb on the tractor and work the fields. Being able to support the agriculture in our community means everything to me. It’s my greatest hope that the passion we all have for what we do shines through, not only on the plate, but in our service and hospitality as well. My food philosophy is not complicated: find the best ingredients you can, and keep it simple. I didn’t learn that at school or from a master chef. That came from my family and my upbringing, and that’s what I want to share with our guests at Radish & Rye. That’s what I call farm-inspired cuisine!”

DRU RUEBUSH TAKES THE HELM AT RADISH & RYE’S KITCHEN Most chefs credit their upbringing for the inspiration and drive behind their craft. Dru Ruebush is no exception. Born and raised in rural southern New Mexico, Ruebush experienced a farm life that left a deep impression on him. Food was at the center of every Ruebush family gathering, providing a way of life that goes back many generations. Farming was the backbone, but traditions like pickling, canning, and 16

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Dru Ruebush, photo courtesy of Radish & Rye.

BACKYARD FARMING SERIES Join Bernalillo County for this workshop series featuring experts in their field who provide participants with hands-on experience and practical information to transform their backyards into thriving urban oases of food, medicine, and wildlife habitat. Held at the Gutierrez-Hubbell House located at 6029 Isleta Boulevard SW in Albuquerque, this series is free, but participants must register beforehand. All workshops run 9am–12pm. Weeds of the West August 13: The workshop will cover identification, medicinal uses, and ways to cook weeds of the West. Chickens and Bees August 20: Two side-by-side workshops will cover the basics of keeping chickens for nutritious and delicious eggs, as well as how to start and manage backyard beehives. Garden Journaling September 10: Participants will learn observation skills, mapping, and how to read catalogs. Composting Basics and Improvements October 1: This workshop will cover compost basics. Participants will learn how to turn garden and food waste into nutritious soil to improve home gardens and landscapes from the ground up. Seed Saving and Seed Exchange November 5: This discussion is about heirloom, hybrid, and genetically modified seeds. To register, visit

Rhode Island Red chicken. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



It Takes a Hive THE BEESTRO, THE HIVE MARKET, AND THE SOON-TO-OPEN ROOT CELLAR By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher · Photos by Stephanie Cameron


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Today when someone refers to innovation, it often implies technological solutions to complex problems. But innovation can occur anywhere conventional methods don’t apply or won’t work, with very simple solutions. The story of Santa Fe’s The Beestro, The Hive Market, and the soon-to-open Root Cellar, a mead and wine tasting room and gastropub, is one of innovative financing that has everything to do with community building and creative access to capital, and very little to do with technological innovation. In the last five years, Greg Menke has managed to open a catering business, a café, a small specialty market, and soon a wine cellar featuring his own mead, New Mexico wines, and a gastropub menu, all financed through local crowdsourcing—a metaphoric collecting of pollen to feed his businesses financially and his community actually. Honey bees are the inspiration for each of these establishments. Like a honeycomb, they provide structure, beauty, food storage, heating and cooling, and so much more. Menke has built a series of multifunctional food businesses made strong by many people contributing resources and working in collaboration. Menke went to culinary school in Baltimore in 1992, where his thesis studies involved research into indigenous American and European culinary exchange, and brought him to Santa Fe, Hawaii, Europe, and many other places. While in Hawaii, Menke discovered a love for visiting farms for favorite ingredients. He would photograph the sites as a form of notetaking, and upon review would notice he had subconsciously captured beehives in his images. This led him to seek out a short beekeeping apprenticeship, and a lifelong love affair with pollinators.



Five years ago, Menke returned to Santa Fe abuzz with serious passion to open a restaurant, but without the serious capital needed to open a brick-and-mortar establishment. Following a friend’s advice to “Never leave your restaurant,” in October of 2012 Menke decided to start a catering business called the Beestro literally out of his refrigerator. The friend meant a restaurateur should build his client base before ever opening his doors, and Menke took this to heart by building a network of individuals and businesses committed to his cooking and reassured by his reliably delicious catered food. After a year of regular lunch and special event service to downtown businesses, Paul DeDomenico, a downtown property owner, offered Menke 101 Marcy Street. Determining the space would work as a starting place for his vision, Menke sent an email to his more than six hundred friends, followers, and customers asking for contributions to help him open the restaurant in exchange for future food, at a return rate of about twenty percent comprised of discounts and other perks. Customers who routinely enjoyed Menke’s lunches saw this as a win-win opportunity and quickly chipped in to help him grow his business. He raised twenty-five thousand dollars in nine days and the Beestro went from fridge to storefront. Menke says that particularly for high-risk enterprises like restaurants and other food businesses, conventional financing can be hard to procure, and can have prohibitive terms. He’s found that his customers see his businesses as a low-risk, high-return investment WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


Greg Menke having fun with honey props; The Beestro menu; the honey wall at The Hive Market filled with honey products from around the region.

with personal accountability, and a bonus of building community. He’s careful how he spends the crowdsourced funds. His own money goes into the more permanent infrastructure like walls and drains, and the community dollars go toward easily salable items like chairs and tables, in case of the unlikely event he would need to liquidate his business and pay back his investors. This sort of thoughtful approach has his customers continuing to support his growth. Building on his success, when a small market space next door became available and Paul DeDomenico offered the space and partnership, Menke again enlisted his dedicated customers for support. Now, in the process of opening his fourth enterprise, the Root Cellar, Menke is a skilled hand at managing unconventional financing. He is now embarking on his largest crowdsourcing effort to-date to raise ninety thousand dollars via Indiegogo—this will be his first time using an online platform to raise money—to complete a kitchen space that will provide food for the Beestro, the Hive Market, and the Root Cellar when it opens in mid- to late-October. He says, “Our Achilles heel is our kitchen, currently located behind the Haagen Dazs shop. We are losing our kitchen due to their plans to expand their offerings. We need to build out our own kitchen space and the basement beneath the Beestro is the perfect place, enabling us to service the Hive Market and Root Cellar.” 20

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Menke humbly acknowledges that the successes of the Beestro and the Hive Market, and future of the Root Cellar, rely on the work of a committed colony. To name only a very few, he gives special thanks and acknowledgement to Indiegogo campaign manager Marcia Kaplan; Vicki Pozzebon, for help with branding; Drew Tulchin of UpSpring, a social enterprise development team; the Beestro general manager Aidan White; head mazer (mead maker) David Schimpff; Falcon Meadery founder Darragh Nagle (Menke is in the process of purchasing the meadery); patron and local investor Andy Wallerstein; and, perhaps most importantly, his partner in life and business, Devon Gilchrist. In a deep and fundamental way, he believes in bees, and tries to model both his life and his businesses after their example by working to his strengths and enlisting the help of the many for the overall success of the hive. He says he hopes his customers and community will make an effort to live locally and sustainably. He wants them to see how bees are connected to farms and how food is connected to health and happiness, and that everyone chipping in a little pollen (or money) can make a lot of honey and a number of successful businesses.

Buy local.

Growing here isn’t easy, but people have beat the odds for centuries. They dug acequias to bring water from the Rio Grande and ranged cattle in the high desert. And along the way, they crafted a unique history that’s etched into our state’s art, culture, and cuisine. Support your neighbors. Buy local. New Mexico True Certified. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



Rainbow Jubilee by Donna Caulton.

Art and Food HIGH ROAD ART TOUR INTRODUCING THE FARM CONNECTION By Amanda Grant The High Road, roughly fifty-six miles of backcountry blacktop, links Española to Taos through snow-capped peaks, alpine meadows, and traditional villages. For two weekends each fall, the High Road Art Tour showcases more than thirty artists who open their studios and homes to visitors along this scenic stretch of northern New Mexico. High Road Artisans (HRA) organizes the High Road Art Tour in an effort to bring economic opportunity and exposure to artists and artisans along the High Road, to enhance the cultural flavor of the area, and to support the traditional arts and activities of the region through education and fundraising. The tour includes Chimayó, 22

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Córdova, Truchas, Ojo Sarco, Las Trampas, Chamisal, Peñasco, Vadito, Placitas, and other communities in the area. This year, in addition to pottery, weaving, jewelry, and paintings, the nineteenth annual High Road Art Tour will showcase local tomatoes, squash, garlic, apples, and other foodstuffs from farms within the region. Two farms, Tooley’s Trees and ZiaQueenBee, will be open to the public throughout both weekends to sell their products, and farmers markets will be held each Sunday, from 10am to 5pm, at the High Road Art Gallery in Truchas and the Gaucho Blue Fine Art Gallery in Peñasco.

GARDEN FRESH! Grow your own garden with vegetables and herbs from Payne’s Nurseries! Choose from our large selection of fresh & organic 2016 seeds.

We Are Santa Fe’s Nursery Experts! We know Northern New Mexico’s soil, vegetation, climate & water requirements. • Locally grown vegetables & herbs • Large collection of xeric plants, groundcovers & perennials • Lots of heirloom tomatoes & peppers • Extensive selection of houseplants • Fruit, shade & evergreen trees • Professional & knowledgeable staff

Happy Gardening! Payne’s Organic Soil Yard ( POSY ) Santa Fe’s Organic Choice for Top Soil • Composts • Mulches Soil Conditioners • Custom Mixes 6037 Agua Fria 505-424-0336 Payne’s South 715 St. Michael’s Dr. 505-988-9626 Payne’s North 304 Camino Alire 505-988-8011

Top to bottom: Truchas Peak, untitled photo by Liz Gold; untitled sculpture by Kathy Riggs; Renee & Marcel Have Their Cake & Eat It Too by Nick Beason and Jim Stoner. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


Left: ZiaQueenBee hive. Top right: ZiaQueenBee bee boxes in Truchas. Bottom right: Tree starts at Tooley's Trees. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.

The HRA decided to include local food and farms in the art tour for several reasons. “The culture at large is increasingly interested in eating whole and local foods, and we want to encourage this trend in our area. This year, our tour encourages visitors to see beyond; to explore through taste what our region has to offer,” says Sally Delap John, President of HRA. In addition, she says, “Including local foods and farms will enhance the tour experience. It gives people a chance to take in the local studios while also experiencing the valleys, peaks, and waterways that grow the food and inspire the art. We feast with our eyes both in food and in art. Incorporating multiple senses creates a fuller, deeper experience.” As residents of this region, HRA members also want to establish a strong regional food system. They hope these farmers markets will further circulate resources within the local community. “Both farmers and artists here have a low opportunity for exposure due to our remoteness, and both can potentially benefit from mutual support,” 24

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says Donna Caulton, HRA treasurer. In several cases, the local farmers are also artists. For example, Mesa Ruiz makes micaceous clay pottery and tableware and will be selling his organic produce in Peñasco on both Sundays of the tour. “Food has the power to create community,” says Nichole Carnevale, HRA administrator of grants and projects. Bringing artists and farmers together on the High Road can only strengthen that community and enrich the tour experience. The High Road Art Tour runs September 17–18 and 24–25, 2016. The tour flag, which symbolizes membership to the HRA, may be flown by members any time of the year to signify that their spaces are open to the public. To volunteer or donate to the HRA, email or visit the website.

New American Farm-to-Table Dinner Tuesday-Saturday 142 W.Palace Ave, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Reservations 505.428.0690

Visit Ojo Sarco Pottery Studio & Gallery

Rio Grande Gorge by Lynn McLain

sawdust fired porcelain by Kathy Riggs

On the High Road to Taos 6 miles north of Truchas Open Daily 10-5. clay • glass • paintings • jewelry 505-689-2354




Inspiration from the Garden FARMER-CHEF COLLABORATION CREATES APPETIZING ARTISTRY AT ARROYO VINO By Candolin Cook · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Assortment of tops-on micro turnips, carrots and radishes, ice lettuce, and a confetti of edible flowers paired with a green aioli.

From my first plate at Santa Fe’s Arroyo Vino, an amuse-bouche of seasonal crudités, I knew I was in for an incredible meal. The beautifully plated assortment of tops-on micro turnips, carrots, and radishes; ice lettuce (a thick succulent leaf bursting with lemony salt flavor); and a confetti of edible flowers came paired with a green aioli made from a blend of vegetable tops and herb stems—items too often discarded. Utilizing every part of the vegetable, and using them in unexpected ways, is something executive chef Colin Shane sees as his “re26

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sponsibility as chef.” Whether it’s the seed, stem, root, fruit, or flower, Shane makes every component a star instead of an afterthought. As each subsequent course arrived, our four-top let out a collective gasp, and then reached for our cameras to immortalize the edible artistry. Yes, we were those people. Maybe it was partly due to the free-flowing rosé, selected from AV’s conjoined, award-winning wine shop, but at one point I compared the caliber of the meal to Broadway’s Hamilton—it was that good.

While the meat dishes were wonderful—buttermilk sous vide chicken breast adorned with a flattened chicken-skin crisp—the thoughtfully prepared flora at AV really puts the restaurant on another level. The majority of vegetables are grown on a small on-site farm, Arroyo Vino Gardens. The farm is well-curated with highvalue and unique crops, the product of close collaboration between farmer and chef. The week after my meal at AV, I returned to interview Shane and his partner at the Gardens (and in life), farmer Lauren Kendall, about their working relationship, food ideologies, and the meaning of New Mexican cuisine. The creative young chef grew up in Santa Fe, left high school at age sixteen, and joined a punk rock band that toured the world. Between tours he made a home base in Gainesville, Florida, where he picked up work in restaurants, moving up the ranks from dishwasher to line cook to mentee of renowned Florida chef Burt Gill of Mildred’s Big City Food. “He taught me how to buy produce and how a restaurant functioned. I had never really even eaten fine dining until I started making it.” Weary of life on the road, Shane returned to Santa Fe with the intention of attending culinary school. However, his innate talent, commitment to self-education, and a series of staging (apprenticeship) opportunities and mentorships under prestigious chefs in Santa Fe and San Francisco gave him the experience he needed to take over as AV’s executive chef in 2014. “When I became head chef we had a lot of discussions about where we wanted to take Arroyo’s identity,” he says. Those conversations led to a partnership with Kendall, whose farm flanking the west side of the restaurant has quickly progressed from a small three-bed garden last year, to a vibrant two-acre, two-women operation. Arroyo Vino’s kitchen and garden now enjoy a very symbiotic relationship. “We begin the season by reading The Whole Seed Catalog together,” Shane says. “I make a list of dream crops, and Lauren tells me what is feasible here.” For Kendall, cultivating plants with medicinal benefits—echinacea, calendula, yarrow—is also important: “I’m here to create a healthy product, and I have an emotional connection in seeing where it ends up.” Her background is in apitherapy, which uses the products made by bees (venom, royal jelly, honey, pollen) as medicine. Five of her hives reside on the farm, pollinating her garden and providing honey and pollen for the kitchen. Because AV uses “every product that comes out of the garden,” Kendall says the restaurant “has to be fluid.” Shane clarifies, “If that means we have to come up with ten different ways to use mustard greens one week, that’s what we’re going to do.” Shane doesn’t really care for the trendiness associated with farm-tofork cuisine; he tweaks his menu daily based on what the farm has to offer because it’s “just the right thing to do.”

Breakfast & Lunch All Day!

3222 Silver Avenue SE, Albuquerque 505.266.0607 •

AV’s commitment to local and native ingredients is also evident in the wide array of foraged elements—such as porcini, nettles, angelica, and wild watercress—found throughout the menu. Dessert dishes include local accoutrements of aromatic spruce shoots, elderflower syrup and mousse, nasturtium meringue, and bee pollen brittle. “You are tasting the whole environment,” says Kendall, “the here and now.” WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



Top left: Chef Colin Shane always serves his guests a seasonal amuse-bouche from the garden for starters. Top right: Seasonal Smørrebrød inspired by Nordic cuisine on a recent stage in Copenhagen. Bottom left: English pea and morel mushroom risotto with spring onion soubise. Bottom right: Chilled white asparagus soup with Idiazabal frico, morel mushroom conserva, and green asparagus ribbons. Opposite page: Kendall and Shane in the hoop house.

“I want New Mexico to be known for more than chile,” Shane declares. “These are New Mexican ingredients too, and they have been around you your whole life. Let the restaurants who do traditional fare really well do that. You don’t need every [fine dining] restaurant making red chile cornmeal trout. There is a much broader spectrum and I’d like to see more people taking risks.”

Something Different!

A recent trip to Copenhagen reinforced Shane and Kendall’s “time and place” food ideology. Shane worked under Amass restaurant owner Matthew Orlando (former head chef of Noma, aka the “best restaurant in the world”), while Kendall expanded her knowledge of food systems and soil health in Amass’s kitchen garden. New Nordic Cuisine emphasizes hyper-local and hyper-seasonal ingredients, sustainability, patron-chef interaction, and naturalist plating, all of which are found in abundance at AV. “Copenhagen isn’t about luxury and caviar,” Shane explains. “It’s about being innovative with what’s around you.” Shane’s opportunities to stage and eat in some of the world’s best restaurants have been invaluable, and something he wants his staff to experience. “I realized we can’t expect some of our [local] guys to understand what I want if they’ve never even been to a restaurant like that.” So last spring, AV took all of its salaried employees to San Francisco to experience some of those top-tier restaurants firsthand. “We wanted them to get inspired.” Arroyo’s restaurant and garden have expanded their collaboration to include a Saturday farmers market on their grounds, where you can find Kendall’s veggies and line of bee products, as well as baked goods from the kitchen. Shane is excited about the direction AV is going and the freedom its owners give him to find his own path. “Every day we make the best food we have ever made,” he says. “I don’t know what the end goal is here, but I think the opportunities are endless.” 218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe, 505-983-2100

3339 Central Avenue, NE, Suite B • Albuquerque, NM 125 Lincoln Avenue, Suite 114 • Santa Fe, NM 505.988.4444 • 505.232.9796 • • m

The Cellar Tapas Beer & Wine

1025 Lomas NW Albuquerque 505.242.3117


Top: On the set of Digging In with Nina Yozell-Epstein, Edgar Beas, Natalie Bovis, and Danny Farrar. Bottom: Edgar Beas uses cherries from Rancho La Jolla to create this episode's dish.,

Episode Three SQUASH BLOSSOM AND CHEF EDGAR BEAS VISIT RANCHO LA JOLLA By Natalie Bovis ∙ Photos by Stephanie Cameron The concept of the Digging In video series is connection. Edible brings chefs to farms to talk about food at the source. By opening a dialogue between the people growing the food highlighted in each episode and the cook who uses it to create an enticing dish, new business and personal relationships form between our guests. Sharing these filmed interactions then brings viewers into that conversation, increasing awareness of both New Mexico agriculture and its presence in our unique cuisine. Therefore, it made perfect sense to feature Nina Yozell-Epstein of Squash Blossom, a local distribution service for area farmers and chefs, on our show. Squash Blossom, like big food suppliers, offers a convenient seeclick-order form for chefs to set up online accounts and get deliveries. But, unlike the corporate companies, Nina’s offerings come only from growers in northern New Mexico and therefore change weekly with the local supply. In other words, don’t go looking for the cherries featured in this episode come November. They just won’t be available. But, a whole plethora of winter veggies will be ready to fill your cornucopia. And, great news for home cooks, Squash Blossom offers a Blossom Bag, which is available for anyone to order online and choose from that week’s pick-up dates and locations. Santa Fe’s talked-about rising star, Edgar Beas, who recently joined Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi as executive chef, is one of Squash Blossom’s newest customers. One could imagine that coming to Santa Fe from northern California might prove disappointing, once having had West Coast produce at his fingertips all year long. However, connecting with Squash Blossom gives Beas an opportunity to not only flex his culinary muscles with our regional bounty, but also introduces him to the local farming community. Moving his family here and taking on his demanding new job leaves little time

for him to source from multiple local farms. Luckily, Squash Blossom facilitates the connection of many local farmers with the chefs who want to buy from them—a win-win. In this episode, we joined Yozell-Epstein and Beas at Rancho La Jolla in Velarde. Farmer and owner Danny Farrar’s family business has been a thriving part of the tiny community for decades, and he is well versed in the area’s history. Did you know that the town is called Velarde after the postmaster’s last name, way back when? According to Farrar, the town was originally called La Jolla or “La Joya,” which means the jewel. We had a delicious meander through Farrar’s cherry orchard, plucking crimson and golden cherries, which themselves had the brilliance of jewels. As we munched and chatted our way through the picturesque piece of land bursting with fruit and bustling workers, we learned how Squash Blossom helps create year-round revenue for an otherwise short market season. It allows farmers to do what they do best—grow stuff—rather than try to carve out time to sell to the public and market to restaurants. Once Beas stocked his kitchen with cherries, greens, and onions from Rancho La Jolla, and fresh eggs from a nearby farm, we got to see this hotshot chef in action. Let me tell you, the food was as pleasing to the eye as it was to the palate. If I weren’t already a fan of Inn of the Anasazi, that one dish would have converted me for good. I’m sure you’re salivating to know more about it. (I would be!) But, I will leave it here to entice you to check out the video. Get to know Yozell-Epstein, Farrar, and Beas, and dig in to episode three as we explore the advantages for chefs and farmers to work with a local distributor such as Squash Blossom.


Top: In the cool, dark barrel room, Casa Rondeña wines rest quietly in French and Hungarian barrels for years before being bottled. Bottom left: Dining room where members of the exclusive 1629 Club enjoy old world ambience. Bottom right: Riesling grapes in midsummer, destined for Casa Rondeña Serenade.

Spain in the Wine CASA RONDEÑA By Cameron Weber · Photos by Stephanie Cameron We often hear that New Mexico has a longer history of wine grapes than any other state. The first grapevines planted in what is now New Mexico were ordered by two monks in defiance of a 1595 Spanish law that attempted to prevent competition with the farmers of Andalusia, who stood to profit enormously from the expanding Spanish Empire. Sacramental wine was essential to the exportation of Catholicism. Before the rebellious monks began making their own, wine arrived only every third year from Spain, delivered by oxcart, in heavy jugs laced with a green glaze that released lead into the sherry-like wine. They planted the first Mission grapes in 1629 at Senecú, a Piro Native American pueblo south of Socorro. Vines of this variety can still be found growing wild and tended today. 32

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I asked John Calvin, winemaker at Casa Rondeña in Albuquerque, how this history has influenced the growing wine industry in New Mexico. “If we didn’t have that history in New Mexico, then most of us who started making wine more recently wouldn’t have had the gumption, or the courage, to try because the climate is just so difficult.” As a young man, Calvin left Albuquerque for rural Spain, curious about how two cultures that share so much early history compare. In Andalusia, he witnessed the surviving influences of Old Spain—an intersection of Sunni Islam, the Romani, and local Catholic cults. He returned a devotee of flamenco, became an architect, and began carving out a distinct position in the wine world.




Top, left to right: 1629 is Casa Rondeña's flagship wine, a proprietary blend; six-hundred-year-old architectural pieces from around the world are part of the charm of Casa Rondeña; a beautiful pond weaves through the grounds at the winery. Bottom left: 1629 club entrance. Middle right: A whimsical sculpture of a dancer greets guests entering the property through the well-tended vineyard. Bottom right: Fermentation facility reflects the interior of the winemaking at Casa Rondeña.

While he accepts that his approach at Casa Rondeña derives more from Old World winemaking techniques than from American ones, Calvin emphasizes that attempting to imitate any other success is futile. “Young people now are so much more discriminating. That means we need to distinguish our wines as representative of what is possible in New Mexico.” I ask how he achieves that kind of distinction, and his answer is simple: “Our blends.” Blending is the art of balancing multiple varietals (single grape varieties) into a superior wine. From an agricultural view, New Mexico’s climatic extremes are violent. The annual temperature variations that grapevines experience here are greater than any other wine-growing region in the world. It would be a rare event for a single varietal to produce perfectly from year to year. A skilled winemaker can assuage the disappointment of a challenging year for the Syrah harvest by adding it to the Cabernet Sauvignon. Blending wine requires not only a talent; it also demands a willingness to make unalterable changes. Calvin presents this as the best method for originality among New Mexico winemakers. “If you want your wines to transcend generations, then you need to make something that’s your own.” Flamenco is by definition improvisation. In adobe architecture, the same building is never made twice, even if laid down by the same hands. Calvin chooses to emphasize New Mexico’s unpredictability by creating an annual version of his best-selling wine, the 1629, a blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, named for the year that Vitis vinifera arrived to this land. The spirit of this wine captures our constant reinvention of what we already know intimately, but must again explore. 733 Chavez NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque 505-344-5911,

John Calvin, photo by Kim Jew Photography. For more information on New Mexico's wine growers and producers, visit




Top left, clockwise: Applying biodynamic preparations; greenhouse at Morning Star Farm in Arroyo Seco; prepping compost pile; Melinda Bateman, owner of Morning Star Farm, walks a group through biodynamic preparations.

Farming the Living Earth BIODYNAMIC FARMING By Rebecca Briggs and Thea Maria Carlson ¡ Photos by Stephanie Cameron What is a living approach to agriculture? How can we farm and garden so that we consciously collaborate with our planet?

of biodynamic agriculture can help us understand that our planet is a living organism—one with which we can actively collaborate.

Biodynamics is a holistic, ecological, and ethical approach to farming, gardening, food, and nutrition. Like permaculture and other holistic agricultural practices, biodynamics seeks not only to stop harming the earth, but also to heal the earth. The unique approach

Various cultures and spiritual traditions around the world have long considered the earth as a dynamic organism. Yet for centuries Western culture has treated the earth as an extractive resource and as a dump for our wastes, without regard for its health. Industrial


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agricultural methods often treat the earth as a dead medium from which to harvest the greatest possible number of crops.


Biodynamic agriculture utilizes principles and concrete practices to work consciously with our planet, and with each of our gardens and farms as living individualities within it. We can see each of the elements in our farm or garden—vegetable beds, animals, compost piles—as organs of a larger organism, and work to bring these elements into a dynamic relationship, so that they interact positively with one another to support the health and well-being of the whole.


years of providing the ultimate Santa Fe dining experience...

Together with farmers who had begun to see declines in the health and fertility of their farms as a result of chemical-based agriculture, Austrian philosopher, educator, and writer Rudolf Steiner developed biodynamics in the 1920s. Biodynamics quickly grew into a worldwide movement, which now includes thousands of farms, gardens, ranches, and agricultural communities on every continent and in a wide variety of ecological, economic, and cultural settings. LUNCH • DINNER • BAR

Biodynamic gardeners and farmers strive to create diversified and balanced farm ecosystems that generate health and fertility as much as possible from within the farm itself. Preparations made from fermented manure, minerals, and herbs are used to help restore and harmonize the vital life forces of the farm and to enhance the nutrition, quality, and flavor of food. Biodynamic practitioners also recognize and strive to work in cooperation with the subtle influences of the wider cosmos on soil, plant, and animal health.

Reservations: 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road photo: Kitty Leaken

Biodynamics has a worldwide independent certification system, managed in the US by Demeter USA. In addition to sound organic farming practices, the Demeter Biodynamic® Farm Standard requires the use of biodynamic preparations, the healthy integration of crops and livestock on the farm, and a certain amount of wild or uncultivated land. Demeter processing standards uphold the integrity and quality of food from seed to plate. One need not be a farmer or gardener to appreciate biodynamics. Biodynamic food is some of the most flavorful and nutritious that you can buy. Many biodynamic farms sell produce, dairy, and other foods directly through farm stands, farmers markets, and CSAs, and biodynamic products are available through many natural food stores. When you eat biodynamic food, or incorporate biodynamics into your garden or farm, you become part of a community actively working to heal the earth, participating in a potent movement to more deeply connect our lives to food and agriculture.

This year, the North American Biodynamic Conference will be in Santa Fe November 16–20. The conference offers a tremendous opportunity to learn more about biodynamics and other regenerative practices for farmers, gardeners, or eaters.

19th Annual High Road Studio Tour

Presented by High Road Artisans

A Year-round Guide to the Arts on the High Road to Taos September 17 -18 & 24 -25, 10am to 5pm

Introducing the Farm Connection with local farmers and produce. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



AN EVENING MARKET AT THE RAILYARD All street parking and surface lots are free after 6pm

4PM - 8PM

Hungry for something to do mid-week? Come feed your senses with fresh, local food at the Farmers’ Market, as well as art, lectures, dancing, drinks and much more throughout the Railyard!

SHOP LOCAL w w w. S a n t a Fe F a r m e r s M a r ke t . c o m

1607 Paseo de Peralta | 505.983.4098


Innovation INTERESTING TECHNIQUES, UNEXPECTED INGREDIENTS By Amelia White ∙ Photos by Stephanie Cameron




Aguachile of shrimp and spaghetti squash Inspired by a meal at Pujol, one of Mexico City’s most innovative restaurants, these recipes feature classic dishes of central Mexico while exploring some interesting techniques applied to unexpected ingredients. Despite being far from the ocean, Mexico City has access to excellent seafood. And now New Mexico does too! I’m excited to offer some great ways to use our own desert-raised shrimp, now available from The Shrimp Farm of Southwestern Seas and the New Mexico Shrimp Company. (See page 50).

AGUACHILE OF SHRIMP AND SPAGHETTI SQUASH Serves 4 Aguachile is a type of ceviche typically made with raw shrimp, cucumber, and red onion marinated in lime juice and chile for just a few minutes before serving. The acid from the citrus denatures the proteins and kills pathogens, in a way very 40

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similar to cooking with heat. At Pujol, chef Enrique Olvera has applied this classic technique to chilacayote, a native gourd that is similar to spaghetti squash, which results in a delightful texture. I think the spaghetti squash adds a nice body to the traditional aguachile, so here I’ve combined it with the shrimp and added some perfect cherry tomatoes for a breezy summer dinner. 1 jalapeño or serrano chile, roughly chopped 1/2 cup water 1/4 cup lime juice 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 1 pound spaghetti squash 1/2 pound very fresh raw shrimp 1 cup Sungold tomatoes 2 tablespoons cilantro, roughly chopped Blend chiles, water, lime juice, olive oil, and salt until smooth, adjust salt to taste, and pour into a wide serving platter with a rim.

Quench your thirst this summer with handcrafted cocktails

Daily Happy Hour 3pm-6pm Visit our Instagram @hiltonbuffalothunder to learn more about Painting on the Patio Art Classes every Thursday in August! e

And donʼt miss our Wine & Chile Dinner coming in September! | 505.819.2056

Save Water Santa Fe

Friendly reminder... eating establishments in Santa Fe are required to serve water to customers upon request only.

#SaveWaterSantaFe • 505.955.4225 City of Santa Fe Water Conservation Office


Esquites with roasted onion cream

Cut the the spaghetti squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Cook in the microwave for about 5 minutes, until crisp-tender. Cool and scrape the fibers out with a fork. (Note: they run crosswise, not lengthwise!) Toss them with the aguachile marinade. Peel the shrimp, setting aside the heads and shells for making stock later. Carefully slice along the back of each shrimp to cut them in half and remove the top and bottom veins. Tear them into bite-size pieces and drop them into the marinade. Cut tomatoes into halves or quarters, and scatter them around the platter. Sprinkle cilantro and a little more salt over everything and serve. You can let it marinate as long as you like.

ESQUITES WITH ROASTED ONION CREAM Serves 4 Esquites are an addictive street food—a mixture of corn kernels, mayonnaise, lime, and any number of other good things. If you’re not in the mood to fire up the grill, I’ve in42

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cluded a handy alternative technique to get that charred corn flavor. For an interesting twist, try them with roasted onion cream instead of mayonnaise. This recipe makes more onion cream than you need, because once you’ve tried it, you’ll find all kinds of uses for it. It’s a great vegan substitute for cream in many recipes. 2 whole onions Safflower or other high-temperature oil 1 tablespoon lime juice 4 ears of corn 1 clove garlic, minced or grated on a microplane 1/4 cup cilantro, roughly chopped Chile powder, to taste Heat oven to 400°F. Rub onions with oil and bake 45 minutes, until they are dark on the outside and very tender inside. (This could also be done on the grill.) Remove outer husks and puree in a blender with lime juice and salt. Taste and adjust seasoning. If you feel like grilling, shuck the corn and set it right on the hottest part of the grill for about 10 minutes, turning it occasionally so that all sides get a nice little char. If you don’t feel

Where The Lo cals Go for G ood.







A cozy place to discover unique wines + quality craft beer + hand-picked artisanal cheese & charcuterie + locally roasted coffee. Come in and explore the things that excite us while you taste + shop + unwind 103 EAST PLAZA TAOS, NEW MEXICO (575)758-1994


warm bread + olive oil tasting spicy caramelized pecan bacon house-made red wine vinegar + sea salt chips marcona, pistachios + smoked almonds warmed citrus + rosemary olives pear + blue cheese + honey burrata + kale pesto + warm bread smoked kielbasa + lusty monk mustard + sauerkraut chilled Castelvetrano olives balsamic marinated beets + lavender goat cheese NM feta, lemon & rosemary spread + smoked trout kale + lemon vinaigrette + shaved pecorino


see chalkboards for available cheeses + charcuterie …with crostini + Lusty Munk Mustard + cornichons cheese pick 3 or 5 charcuterie pick 3 or 5 build your own board pick 4 or 6


house-made peanut butter cup iconik coffee infused truffles tea-O-graphy truffle trio *fall fig + ginger spice + lady grey


Shrimp and poblano chileatole like grilling, heat oil in a skillet on high. Cut the kernels off the ears of corn, and toss with the oil. Cook without moving until charred on one side, about 2 minutes. Toss and repeat to char a bit more. Continue tossing and charring, about 10 minutes total. Mix corn in a bowl with 2 tablespoons of onion cream, garlic, cilantro, and chile powder. Serve hot.

SHRIMP AND POBLANO CHILEATOLE WITH ANCHO CHICHARRONES Serves 4 Chileatole is a savory soup from the central area of Mexico including the states of Puebla, Tlaxcala, Veracruz, Morelos, and Oaxaca, with many regional variations. The beauty of it 44

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is its versatility—it’s rich and filling, it can be served hot or cold, and it makes a great base for garnishing. One traditional addition is sweet summer corn, so I’ve included the absolute quickest and easiest technique for cooking corn on the cob indoors. Feel free to throw in any other beautiful vegetables you find at the market. Another recent trend is to garnish with crispy chicharrones made out of all kinds of interesting things—the technique works on dried chiles, chicken skin, salmon skin, potato skins, and anything else thin and somewhat dry. This recipe includes a fantastic way to use those beautiful shrimp heads. The technique of pressure cooking the stock creates an intense flavor, but you can certainly make it without a pressure cooker.


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1 pound very fresh shrimp with heads on 4 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup chopped onion 1/2 cup chopped carrot 2/3 cup dry vermouth 4 cups water 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 2 teaspoons salt 2 dried ancho chiles, broken into 4 pieces each 1/4 cup safflower or other high-temperature oil 2 poblano chiles, roughly chopped 2 cups water 1/2 cup masa harina 1 ear of corn in the husk 2 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon Tajin chile powder (the kind for sprinkling on fruit with dehydrated lime juice in it) 4 ounces queso fresco, crumbled 2 tablespoons cilantro or tarragon, roughly chopped Peel the shrimp. Put the heads and shells into the base of a pressure cooker with half the butter, and sautÊ until they just begin to brown. Remove and set aside, then add the onion and carrot to the pot with the rest of the butter. Cook until the onions just begin to brown, then add the shrimp heads and tails and deglaze the pan with vermouth. Add water, salt, and coriander, and cook at 15 psi for one hour. Heat the oil to 350°F in a small saucepan (the smaller the better, so the oil will be deeper). Add the ancho chile pieces and fry until they puff, just a few seconds. Drain on a paper towel and sprinkle with salt immediately. Pour half the oil into a skillet for cooking the shrimp later. Cook the poblanos in the remaining oil in the saucepan on medium heat until tender. Puree them with two cups of hot water in a blender. Add the masa to the blender and pulse until smooth. Strain the stock into another pot. Add the masa mixture and simmer very gently, stirring often, for about 10 minutes. Chill if desired. Put the unshucked corn into a microwave on full power for 3 minutes. Let it cool slightly, then pull off the husk and cut off the kernels. Heat the skillet over medium flame and add the shrimp. Sprinkle them with a little Tajin and let them cook about 30 seconds. Flip them, sprinkle with garlic and Tajin, and cook another 30 seconds, until they just turn pink. Remove from heat and chill if desired.

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Pour the soup into bowls and garnish with shrimp, corn, ancho chicharrones, queso fresco, and cilantro. If you have some of the onion cream left over from the previous recipe, use it as a garnish here, too.


A celebration of food, art, and culture on the Rio Grande

Saturday, August 20, 2016 Brought to you by:

11 A.M. – 7 P.M.

NatioNal HispaNic cultural ceNter 1701 4tH st. sW

Featuring local food:

chef demonstrations Food trucks | Live music Film screenings I Workshops | Beer & wine garden | Bike valet Kids’ activities: petting zoo, face painting, more!


MELON SORBET GARNISHED WITH MELON CHIPS AND CHILE Serves many Sometimes I get a little melon-crazy. I’ve been known to buy three different kinds of melon in the same day at the farmers market! Making sorbet and drying melon slices are two techniques for preserving this seasonal perfection. After years of trying random recipes, I think I’ve finally cracked the code on how to make a great sorbet. It needs to be about 20–30 percent sugar. Less, and it will turn out hard or grainy. More, and it may not freeze solid at all. Replacing a quarter of that sugar with smooth, viscous corn syrup (which is mostly glucose and not at all the same thing as high fructose corn syrup) gives it body and helps make it more creamy and scoopable. Fruit with a lot of fiber or pectin will also give a sorbet more body. Most fruits are about 90 percent water, so a ratio of 4 cups of fruit to 1 cup of sugar is almost always just right. The coarseness of the ice crystals that are formed while freezing is determined by the agitation and the rate of freezing. In my old-fashioned salt and ice machine, the more salt you use on the ice around the outside of the container, the quicker the ice cream freezes, and therefore the finer the crystals and the creamier the texture. If I use a whole cup of salt, it’s done in 20 minutes! Drying melon slices into crispy chips is a delightful way to intensify and preserve the flavor of cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon, or any other melon. This process is easiest in a dehydrator, but you can also make them in the oven at its lowest setting—either method takes overnight. 1 large cantaloupe 3/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup corn syrup 1/4 cup lime juice Red chile powder Cut the melon in half and scoop out the seeds. Chop one half into cubes and measure out 4 cups for the sorbet. Cut the remaining melon into 1/4-inch thick slices and remove the rind. Set oven to its lowest temperature (mine goes down to 170°F). Lay the slices on a rack over a tray, and dry them for about 6–8 hours. It helps to open the oven periodically to release steam.

Melon sorbet with melon chips 48

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Combine melon cubes, sugar, lime juice, and corn syrup in a blender; blend until smooth. Refrigerate for at least an hour. Add to ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer’s directions. Put it in the freezer for a few more hours to set, or just serve immediately, garnished with a melon chip or two and a sprinkle of chile powder.

Chile capital of the world.

Green Chile Lamb Burger INGREDIENTS


24 oz. ground lamb patty


Preheat grill to high.

4 slices of cheddar jack cheese


4 oz. 505 Southwestern brand Flame Roasted Green Chile

Form ground lamb into four 6 oz. patties. Salt and pepper each patty to desired amount.


Place patties on the grill: three minutes per side for medium rare, five minutes per side for medium, or six minutes per side for medium well.


After flipping the patty, place cheese and green chile on top of cooked patty and cover with a dome lid. Cheese will melt and adhere chile to top of patty.


Cut bun in half. Lightly butter the inside of both halves, then place on the grill surface.


Once bread is golden brown and toasty, spread aioli or mayonnaise on both surfaces. Place lettuce on bottom bun half, then top with the burger and bun.

4 oz. aioli or mayonnaise Brioche bun Leaf lettuce Salt and pepper

For a map of New Mexico’s green chile cheeseburger all-stars, visit

Adventure that Feeds the Soul. newmexico.org49 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM

Shrimp: The Fabric of Our Lives SHRIMP FARMING IN SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO By Willy Carleton

New Mexico Shrimp Company, an inland aquaculture operation. Photo by Willy Carleton.


n a small red barn in Mesquite, New Mexico, a thousand miles from the nearest coast, the air smells like the ocean, and large tanks bubbling with coffeecolored water bear an unlikely harvest. Pacific white shrimp, born in Florida and raised on New Mexico cottonseed, dart through the salinized water at one of the state’s newest aquaculture ventures, the


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New Mexico Shrimp Company (NMSC). Wedged between the center-pivot irrigated fields, feedlots, and implement dealerships of the Mesilla Valley, the NMSC aims to expand locavore seafood options while transforming New Mexico’s agro-industrial farm fields. The NMSC synthesizes not only land and sea, but also local and global agriculture.

I arrived for the New Mexico Shrimp Company grand retail opening on a hot June day, amid a steady stream of customers who had come from near and far. Juan Albert, the company’s business developer, explained that the fledgling business aims to produce twelve thousand pounds of shrimp a year in its climate-controlled barn, perhaps doubling that total if plans for an outdoor pond materialize. The company uses fresh water, treated with salt, to fill eleven eight-thousand-gallon tanks, and plans to recycle this water to grow sea asparagus and other salt-tolerant vegetables in a yet-to-be-built hydroponic system. The company purchases very young shrimp, called post-larvae, from a breeder in Florida and raises them four months, until they reach market size. The landbased system, Albert explained, provides fresh, preservative- and antibiotic-free seafood with minimal water loss, and offers a potentially sustainable solution to overfishing. “We’re trying to produce shrimp here without depleting the oceans,” Albert declares. At the heart of the company’s method of growing shrimp is another crop that not many readily identify with New Mexico: cotton. Farmers in southern New Mexico have grown cotton in commercial quantities for roughly a century, and the crop has historically represented one of the state’s most economically significant agricultural products. In recent decades, however, cotton production has declined. NMSU researchers decided to take an innovative approach to boosting production. “We started with the cottonseed process and identified it as an ideal feed for shrimp,” Albert explains. For several years, Tracey Carrillo, co-owner of the NMSC and assistant director of campus farm operations at NMSU, researched ways to help boost the cotton industry. Thinking beyond the fiber market, Carrillo began to look into how to add value to cottonseed. Cottonseed is high in protein, but has limited value due to a toxic compound, gossypol, that only mature ruminants can tolerate. Carrillo reasoned that if it could be bred to contain little or no gossypol, then perhaps the cottonseed could be used for human consumption or as an alternative animal feed. He worked with Cotton Incorporated, the national cotton industry group, to develop a fishmeal application for the gossypol-free cottonseed. “Our thinking is that if we can help the cotton growers get more value out of their seed,” Carrillo recently told NMSU's The Round Up, “then we’ve helped the cotton industry for New Mexico and all along the Cotton Belt…And if we can help the aquaculture farmers reduce their feed costs, then we’ve helped that industry, as well.” This inland shrimp operation’s location, in the heart of a historic cotton valley and ten miles from a major agricultural research institution, now begins to make more sense. Cottonseed, not shrimp, may promise the most lucrative returns. NMSU has worked with the seed and biotech giant, Cargill, to analyze the gossypol-free cottonseed meal for commercial applications. While the NMSC currently uses all the feed it produces for its own shrimp, Albert explains that the company aims to become primarily a feedmill producer, selling feed and licenses to aquaculturists within and beyond the region.

5415 Academy NE • 505.835.0860 • WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


Top left, clockwise: The red barn of the NMSC in the heart of the Mesilla Valley; sign inside the NMSC barn; freshly harvested Pacific white shrimp from the NMSC; shrimp caught in a basket, ready to harvest; a worker inspects the catch; and plant manager Rosemary Garcia empties shrimp into a pool for customers to catch. All photos by Willy Carleton.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016

The potential application of cottonseed feed is large. Cottonseed fishmeal might eventually prove attractive to aquaculturists raising seafood other than shrimp. The NMSC itself, in fact, has not ruled out expanding to seafood such as prawns, crawfish, tilapia, or catfish. “The future of seafood,” as Carrillo recently summed up the company’s potential to The Round Up, “is going to be from facilities like this.” This vision feeds, to some extent, on current enthusiasm for local agriculture. The model supports small-scale production and direct sales to customers who like to know the sources of their food. On the day I visited the NMSC, for example, I met Ron Hoskinson with a shrimp net in his hand. Hoskinson had taken the long drive from Alamogordo to buy four pounds of the shrimp for his family and friends. “I’m excited. I like sourcing my food…I know who raised them, and that’s important,” Hoskinson explained. “I consider this the same as buying grassfed beef from Tucumcari,” he paused, and then said with a smile, “I like to know my surf-and-turf is safe and local.” Despite the local nature of direct sales, this model of shrimpgrowing nonetheless relies heavily on an agro-industrial base. Buying shrimp from NMSC is more analogous to buying local feedlot cattle than buying grassfed beef; the shrimp are raised entirely on cottonseed, an industrial commodity crop. The banner of localism becomes more frayed with the licensing model of the NMSC’s parent company, Farm Fresh Shrimp. Although Farm Fresh Shrimp encourages local shrimp production in other regions, its vision of franchising runs against the current of fostering independent, local producers. As the Albuquerque Journal has reported, Farm Fresh Shrimp sells licenses for between thirty-five and one hundred thousand dollars, depending on the location, and retains royalty rights to two percent of all future shrimp sales. While the company has signed on a few licensees, not all shrimp growers are happy with their licensing model of local shrimp production. Judy Armendariz, who began raising shrimp in Lemitar in 2014, explains that information was unavailable without a hefty price, so she was forced to learn the trade by visiting several momand-pop shrimp farms and by meeting with shrimp researchers at Texas A&M–Corpus Christi. Armendariz says that she tried to work with NMSU, but Farm Fresh Shrimp’s licensure agreements stood in the way. “I was unable to get any help unless I agreed to pay for access to the information that NMSU had developed using public resources,” Armendariz explains. According to Armendariz, NMSU declined to validate her projection costs, even after the USDA urged the university to do so. “I felt that NMSU was more focused on making money off a franchise business model than they were on promoting the growth of aquaculture in New Mexico and the actual production of clean, fresh shrimp. As a publicly funded institution, NMSU should first and foremost support the farms of New Mexico before they support a faculty member’s private business development based on knowledge gained through publicly funded research.”


EVERYONE! Farmers • Families • Communities


Questions surrounding the cotton-raised shrimp at the NMSC certainly abound. How much does it matter that the local feed source derives from agro-industrial methods? Does the licensing model preclude publicly funded information from reaching the public in a way that undermines the founding ideals of a land-grant college like NMSU? What about the potential health effects on shrimp raised entirely on gossypol-free cottonseed, and on humans who consume that shrimp? Driving north from Mesquite after a long day pondering these questions on the road, a more immediate question began to surface. How do they taste? With a rumbling stomach, I sautÊed the fresh shrimp in butter and served them over a simple salad for dinner. The buttered shrimp had a mild, meaty flavor, yet perhaps lacked the complex finish I associate with oceanic shrimp. These terrestrial shrimp embody a unique terroir of New Mexico’s cotton landscape and offer an experimental new flavor to the world. New Mexico Shrimp Co. 705 Sequoia, Mesquite, 575-639-5110

The Shrimp Farm by Southwestern Seas, LLC, in Lemitar has been in business since November 2014, when Judy Armendariz converted an old hay barn into an aquaculture facility capable of producing twenty-four thousand pounds of shrimp a year. Armendariz uses a zero-waste water recycling system and feeds her shrimp an EUapproved, commercial organic, plant-based (noncottonseed) shrimp feed. Within the next year, Armendariz plans to expand to a new facility with a whopping two-hundred-fifty-thousand-poundper-year capacity. Armendariz sells shrimp at local farmers markets, including in Santa Fe, and sells direct at the farm. She offers farm tours upon request, for groups large or small. "I never charge for tours and there is certainly no obligation to purchase any shrimp," Armendariz explains. Armendariz hopes New Mexicans will consider visiting her farm or market stand, either to buy shrimp or learn more about the shrimp-raising process. "I just want people to understand that my shrimp are simply the cleanest, freshest, and most sustainable shrimp available," Armendariz urges. "I am trying to sell the best shrimp I can grow, and I am willing to help anyone who wants to do the same."

Shrimp from The Shrimp Farm. Photo by Stephanie Cameron 54

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The Shrimp Farm, 505-350-5184

Enjoy beautiful patio dining and a walk on the farm. See our website for special dinners, events and reservations.

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114


Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm


Pilar Westell brews up espresso works of art. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.

The third wave is all about the relationship between the bean and the barista, the craft of coffee-making and manipulation, and the profile of the bean itself. Third wave coffee shops push the discovery of the art of coffee through experiments with roasting and brewing.


ongtime New Mexico resident Pilar Westell has blazed the third wave coffee trail in downtown Albuquerque. It’s a hot Friday, just after noon, and a healthy-sized crowd buzzes in the airy space of her three-year-old café, Zendo. Outside, a few blocks to the north, construction completes on a new twelve thousand square foot grocery, dining, and living complex. To the south, the Albuquerque Rescue Mission provides shelter, food, and clothing to people in need.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016

Zendo sits at the intersection of Albuquerque’s revitalization efforts and its ongoing struggles with the economic stagnation that hit in 2008. If Zendo, and Westell, are any indication of the direction Albuquerque is heading, then signs point towards a bright future. From the beginning in 2013, Westell wanted to take a chance on downtown. “When we first got here, there was nothing else like it in this part of town,” Westell remembers. “People thought this part of town was dangerous or did not have that much going on.” Three

years later, Westell is somewhat staggered that Zendo has not just stayed open, but has done so with huge success. “It’s humbling in a lot of aspects, that we were willing to take a chance on this particular area and be a catalyst for showing that it is a great place to be and work,” Westell says. But it’s not the location alone that has made Zendo an object of obsession among coffee snobs and neophytes alike. The beans, preparations, and atmosphere draw people from all over the city and beyond. Zendo is part of a growing third wave coffee culture that is taking root in urban Albuquerque. Colorado roaster Trish Rothgeb first identified the third wave of coffee culture in an article she wrote for Roast in 2002. Since Rothgeb’s use of the term “third wave” in relation to coffee developments, the first and second waves have been defined by many coffee connoisseurs. Most agree that the first wave of coffee culture began in the early twentieth century with the availability of instant coffee. The second wave ushered in the emergence of specialty coffee shops such as Starbucks and Peet’s, and saw more sophisticated drip coffee makers used at home. The third wave is all about the relationship between the bean and the barista, the craft of coffee-making and manipulation, and the profile of the bean itself. Third wave coffee shops push the discovery of the art of coffee through experiments with roasting and brewing. (Some coffee connoisseurs believe we are stepping into the fourth wave as we speak, but for the sake of clarity, I am deeming the cafés in question part of the third wave.) If Zendo is third wave, one can certainly see the appeal: customers converse over espresso drinks like the Regis—two shots of espresso served over mineral water and topped with homemade whipped cream—and deliberate over bagged beans from the latest coffee roaster in Denver. The lively leisure space is exactly what Westell hoped for in creating Zendo. “My hope is that we can provide a quick cup of coffee for people who need to run, but also appreciate that people come and have meetings, or bring their families and hang for a couple of hours [to] be in a neighborhood-type setting,” she says. “I’ve lived here probably for the past ten years or so and it’s gone through some really amazing changes—can’t say enough about how excited I am about this place. It just has this energy of positive movement,” she continues. Zendo is one of a small but steady number of Albuquerque cafés where customers can expect to choose coffee much like one orders wine or craft beer, selecting based on origin of bean, roast, and varietal. To the north, on the opposite edge of downtown, sits the newest member of the third wave surge, Prismatic Coffee. Here, the look is sleek and modern-industrial—a reflection of the surrounding Sawmill district. Loren Bunjes, co-owner along with Grey Smith, is an enthusiastic participant in the vanguard of third wave coffee culture cropping up downtown. He says, “Part of my vision from the beginning was to pick up from the beer scene…if we look at what the brewery culture has been for this city, the café




edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016

can be that too. It’s a place for the everyman to gather, to enjoy top quality craft beverage without having to spend a fortune.” A huge part of what makes a complex, intriguing, and affordable cup of coffee, believes Bunjes, is the story of the bean. Prismatic roasts their own beans, an act integral to Prismatic’s third wave culture. Bunjes explains, “I want to be able to be as intimately involved in it as possible and be able to define my product that expresses we are agile, we adjust, and get the freshest, most exotic, exciting products in the world.” Prismatic sources its coffee through a boutique distributor who travels to Kenya and El Salvador. Next, Bunjes finds out more about the beans and the people who grow them. “I love buying from people whose names I know,” he says. The team at Prismatic is so dedicated to the quality of their roast that they’ve devised a unique way to contribute to the community. “We are constantly assessing our own product—I want to know if it’s doing what I want it to do. There are roasts that we don’t find to be up to our standards and we donate it to homeless shelters instead of serving it here,” Bunjes says. “If it’s not up to our specific standard and not doing what we want it to do, we would rather it not be sold, but I’m not going to throw it out!” The man behind the roasting drum is co-owner Smith, a mechanical-minded welder who uses the logic of numbers to finetune roasts. He, along with Bunjes and Tertia Gillett, are the brain and heart behind Prismatic. “We try to run a really egalitarian environment—everyone from us to baristas have autonomy to develop coffee and try new things,” Bunjes says. The team at Prismatic considers urban spaces such as their shop to be essential for generating community collaboration and involvement. Bunjes explains, “People who tend to live downtown push back against urban sprawl and I think they are looking for places to breathe. They are interested in community, friends, and business owners, and in a total experience rather than coffee as commodity.”

Susan’s Fine Wine and Spirits

It’s Rosé season and we have the largest selection in town! 1005 S. St. Francis, Suite 101 | 505-984-1582 062716 iota edible sf_f.pdf 1 10am 7/13/16 3:30 PM Monday - Saturday - 8pm

I ran into Bunjes at another downtown café, Deep Space Coffee, where he is checking on some Prismatic-roasted beans he has recently dropped off. They were sourced from Bali, and Bunjes wants to see how the group at Deep Space is using them. When I see Bunjes, I am talking to Deep Space’s Erich Lehnberg, manager, and Solve Maxwell, owner (along with partners James Swagerty and Laurie and Jared Tarbell). We are, fittingly, talking about Albuquerque’s “coffee renaissance.” Maxwell says, “There’s this incredible coffee revolution and Albuquerque is one hundred percent open to it.” Soon after Bunjes leaves, a man approaches Maxwell with a question about the handmade wooden tables in the café. He is Top left: Grey Smith empties the Giesen roasting drum. Top right: Prismatic barista makes the perfect pour-over. Middle right: The development of aroma and flavor will start in the exothermic phase of roasting. The beans start turning from dark yellow to light brown to a darker brown color. Bottom: Prismatic partners (left to right) Grey Smith, Loren Bunjes, and Tertia Gillett.

CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF CULINARY EXCELLENCE Cuisine inspired by Santa Fe’s Rich Culinary History Dining Room · Bar · Patio · Live Entertainment · Private Dining Rosewood Inn of The Anasazi 113 Washington Avenue | Santa Fe, NM 87501· (505) 988-3030


All photos by Stephanie Cameron. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016

a local root beer brewer and wants to hire the same carpenter to make handles for his beverage taps. “Maybe we could serve the root beer here,” Lehnberg muses. In the span of an hour, I’ve seen exactly the type of collaborative, communal space Deep Space hopes to provide in a developing downtown. “We want to see lines at the doors of coffee shops, instead of lines at the mall,” says Lehnberg. Sitting squarely on Central, a few doors down from the still-standing Gizmo Store and across the street from a few forlorn, empty storefronts, Deep Space is a bright spot in a downtown that often seems torn between growth and decay. The shop is filled with people, sipping espresso and pour-overs. Maxwell says, “We know Central can be weird, and we want to create a place where kids can be safe and happy, to see that the world is open, that it can be a beautiful place.” Maxwell and Lehnberg take pleasure in the idea that innovation is taking place in their café—both in their meticulous drinks and customer base. With the rise of laptops and telecommuting, cafés have become a natural home to a workforce that embraces the easy camaraderie of café culture. “We’ve seen a shift in the numbers of people that actually work from anywhere. We see a mass of entrepreneurs and others making successful businesses in coffee shops,” Maxwell says. Like their European forebears, Deep Space encourages New Mexicans to linger over their cold brew and doughnuts. Maxwell notes, “We’ve always wanted to bring people together—not just over a beverage but over an idea.” Deep Space, Prismatic, and Zendo are helping to reinvent Albuquerque’s greater downtown area as a place of innovation and community. Carefully curated and crafted drinks are important, but perhaps even more so is the space these third wave cafés give to the city’s core. They make our urban center less stigmatized, more populated, and, yes, more caffeinated. Zendo 413 2nd SW, Albuquerque, 505-926-1636 Prismatic Coffee 1761 Bellamah NW, Albuquerque, 505-205-1590

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Deep Space Coffee 504 Central SW, Albuquerque

Top left: Deep Space Coffee specialty espresso drink. Top right: Customer Soraya Martinez enjoys her coffee. Bottom: Deep Space Coffee proprietors Jared Tarbell (left), Solve Maxwell (right). All photos by Eric Martinez. Serving New Mexico since 1980.

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By Mark DeRespinis

A micro-sprinkler irrigation system at Freshies Farm coats the orchard in a thick layer of ice, protecting the buds and flowers until the sun comes out and warms the air, lifting the temperature out of the danger zone. Photo by Christopher Bassett.

By all accounts, raising an orchard in the northern mountains is a risky business. In the spring, warm spells coax dormant buds into bloom while nighttime temperatures still dip below freezing. Timing is everything, and orchardists are fanatical about the specifics of their zone and the patterns of the weather during bloom. A dip below twenty-eight degrees can devastate tender flowers. 62

edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016


n a cloudy afternoon in early June, I visited Freshies Farm in Lyden, on the stretch of the Rio Grande just south of Velarde, to meet with owners Christopher and Taylor Bassett. We stood alongside rows of closely-ranked, v-shaped peach trees in full leaf, beholding a bountiful crop of downy green adolescent peaches. “This is our third full crop of peaches in eight years of running the farm,” Christopher said frankly, though with a gleam of delight in his eye. It was shaping up to be a really good year. By all accounts, raising an orchard in the northern mountains is a risky business. In the spring, warm spells coax dormant buds into bloom while nighttime temperatures still dip below freezing. Timing is everything, and orchardists are fanatical about the specifics of their zone and the patterns of the weather during bloom. A dip below twenty-eight degrees can devastate tender flowers. The precarious odds play out again and again, from valley bottom to mountain hillside: a good crop comes one in every three years for apples; one in every five years for peaches; and one in every ten years for apricots. Despite these challenges, in the middle of the last century, the Española Valley gained renown as one of the fruit baskets of the Southwest; every day, during harvest season, truckand trainloads of fruit left for cities near and far. Christopher described the scene at Freshies during the peach bloom just two months earlier, when an Easter-time cold spell descended and killed off most of the stone fruit in the area. For times like these, when the orchard is most sensitive, the Bassetts have a dual strategy for protecting their precious flowers from the brutal extremes of mountain weather. A temperature sensor in the orchard sets off an alarm that could wake the dead, and the farmers spring into action. A forty-foot tall wind machine circulates warm air in the vicinity and keeps the cold from settling in among the trees. Meanwhile, a micro-sprinkler irrigation system coats the orchard in a thick layer of ice, protecting the buds and flowers until the sun comes out and warms the air, lifting the temperature out of the danger zone. Following the long orcharding tradition of the valley, these small farmers are finding ways to use technological innovations to their advantage as they attempt to rebuild local and regional markets and return quality artisanal production to their communities. Using these strategies, Freshies Farm has succeeded in bringing (at least some, and often many) peaches to market in all but two of the last eight years. And their apples, protected by the same systems, have been even more consistent. The Bassetts took over this state-of-the-art orchard in 2008. The former owner, Walter Lee of Cottonwood Lane Orchards, had installed the orchard system eight years earlier, with the help of NMSU fruit specialist, Dr. Ron Walser. At the time, the orchard contained an acre of mature certified organic apple trees, an acre of mature certified organic peach trees, the irrigation system and wind machine, a row of Triple Crown blackberries, and several hundred feet of dike-side river frontage cottonwood bosque shade. Living in an old Airstream, they began working the orchard, building a home, and developing the farm’s infrastructure. Freshies

SANTA FE 321 W. San Francisco 986-8700

ALBUQUERQUE 3403 Central NE 10701 Corrales Rd. NW 11225 Montgomery NE 266-7855 899-7500 271-0882 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


ris at the Mark and Ch nnels. end of the tu


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016

showed up at the Santa Fe Farmers Market in 2010 and has been a mainstay there ever since. “We don’t grow a lot of crops,” Christopher said. “We grow six crops and we aim to grow a lot of them at the highest quality and at full flavor. Tree-ripened, vine-ripened, peak of flavor, ready for eating right now.” The Bassetts started with apples, peaches, and blackberries. In 2011, they lost their peach crop to a winter deep freeze that killed the buds on the trees before they even bloomed. Fortuitously, they had applied for a high tunnel grant from the Natural Resources Conservation Service that winter and were able to construct it and begin growing tomatoes and cucumbers. The same year, they started growing oyster mushrooms, taking over Desert Fungi from Danny Rhoads and assimilating it into their production schedule. After another lost peach crop in 2013, they expanded their oyster mushroom production and have since been supplying two hundred pounds a week to farmers market customers and local chefs. That year, they also experimented with a high-density cherry tree planting and found space on the edges of the mature orchard to do a pluot planting. They fit these expansions within their available land by reclaiming a driveway through the orchards for the high tunnel and tucking the mushroom house away in a shady cottonwood grove behind their chicken coop. This efficient use of the available growing space, high-density planting, and use of protected space to create ideal conditions for certain crops have all helped Freshies chart the way forward for fruit production in northern New Mexico.

An authentic Italian restaurant in Santa Fe, assuring us all that Italy never feels too far away. Gracious service mixed with fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farms to create homemade items.

58 S. Federal Place, Santa Fe ∙ 505-986-5858 ∙

We toured the peach and apple orchards, peeked inside the mushroom shade house, and observed melons and Sungold tomatoes just beginning to climb their trellis in the high tunnel. The new land and its recent plantings beckoned, so we hopped in the car and drove about a mile down the road before the tunnel structure loomed into view, catching the mesa’s warm evening light on its patterned geometries. It is truly a majestic sight, a kind of temple of modern agriculture. Five adjacent tunnels, measuring thirtyfeet by three-hundred-feet each, contain seemingly endless rows of fruit trees, with tomatoes and cucumbers planted in between. The rows are not, in fact, endless, and, as Christopher explained, in their new acre of high-tunnel fruit production, the Bassetts planted according to the advice of leading fruit tree experts on planting orchards at high density to increase yield and speed up production. “There is a finite amount of irrigated land in New Mexico, a really low percentage—increasing the productivity of that land is what’s going to help us feed ourselves.” The trees stand in close and orderly ranks—three feet apart and trained to a series of trellis wires that promise to hold them as they climb towards the sky. Freshies just planted these trees in April and already they sported a healthy coat of leaves and new growth. The Bassetts have decided to focus on stone fruits in their high-tunnel Opposite page: Five adjacent tunnels, measuring 30’x300’ each, contain seemingly endless rows of fruit trees, with tomatoes and cucumbers planted in between. These photos attempt to capture the awe-inspiring structure. Photos by Stephanie Cameron.

Bernalillo County We’re more than you think



Top left, clockwise: Christopher shows off his orchard to Mark DeRespinis; oyster mushrooms growing out of mushroom bag; high tunnels house new fruit trees; high-tunnel arches up close; oyster mushroom house. Opposite page: Christopher and Taylor Bassett with their two children. All photos by Stephanie Cameron. 66

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orchard expansion, and Christopher excitedly detailed the varieties of apricots, plums, sweet cherries, and nectarines they have planted to enable the longest possible harvest window for each fruit. A core principle of the Freshies planting program is to provide the most delicious and ripe fruit for the longest possible season, using varieties that mature at different times. With the protection of the tunnels, Freshies will have a reliable crop of these precious summer fruits to sell throughout the region, adding an array of exciting new items to the menu of seasonal delicacies that enrich the lives of local food lovers. As we walked down the long rows, Christopher pointed to tomato and cucumber plants that would bear fruit in the next couple weeks, including their much-coveted Sungold tomatoes, heirlooms such as Cherokee Purple, and thin-skinned cucumbers. They planted the tomatoes and cucumbers between the orchard rows to make efficient use of the space while the trees are still small and don’t require tractor access for harvest. The experience of being in the tunnels was mesmerizing. I imagined the tomatoes reaching the top trellis wire at ten feet tall and the hedges of trees adorned with fragrant rosy blossoms, later hanging heavy with brightly colored fruits. We left the tunnels and looked out over an adjacent field planting. As we walked, we passed by recently composted and mulched rows of table grapes; blackberries; and red, black, and yellow raspberries—a bramble and vineyard planting that promised to bear many a berry in the years ahead. These diverse delights complete the roster of fruits that Freshies has planned for farmers market tables, the produce department of La Montañita Co-op, and the kitchens of chefs around the region. “They know when they get something from us, that it’s gonna be the best, and when you taste it, you say: these things are something special.” The future looks good for northern New Mexico locavore fruit lovers—no more waiting ten years for the taste of a ripe apricot fresh off the tree. And perhaps we can look forward to a time when the Española Valley will be revered as the fruit basket of the region once again.

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ew Mexico, with its rich culinary history and its agricultural production, could definitely contend as a food hub; yet the state is virtually a food desert. According to one study published within the past decade, there’s just one grocery store every four hundred and eighty-six square miles. This means that much of the state’s rural population, which struggles with high poverty rates, has long distances to travel to purchase groceries. The closest food available might come from convenience or dollar stores, and be less nutritious. This isn’t just a problem for rural dwellers, either; many people in urban spaces, like Albuquerque’s downtown area, also struggle with the lack of proximity to fresh food. Silver Street Market, a full-service grocery slotted to open in August, aims to address that problem. Kelly and Rob Ortman, who have over twenty years each of experience in the grocery industry, are turning seven thousand five hundred square feet of downtown retail space into a solution for their local food desert. The Ortmans want the Silver Street Market to be “what the neighborhood wants it to be,” Kelly explained, saying that they’ll cater what they carry to their consumers' preferences. Using food as a tool for social change is at the top of the Ortmans' list. And because they’re native to Albuquerque, they understand the challenges ahead of them. Downtown Albuquerque has struggled with crime and vagrancy. Kelly believes that providing a grocery that acts as both a food hub and a social hub will change the space around it. Many downtown residents have limited or no transportation options. Silver Street Market will be within walking distance for many downtown residents, and nearby buildings have been converted into lofts. On workdays, commuters double the downtown population. A bakery and deli section with a selection of ready-made foods aims to provide for this crowd. The Ortmans intend to “integrate natural foods next to store brands,” eliminating the stigma sometimes associated with shopping a specific section of the store. “Because we’re local people, we’re very conscious about supporting local suppliers,” Kelly shared, keeping true to their Silver Street tagline: Eat. Shop. Buy Local.

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Green Jeans Farmery mastermind Roy Soloman extended that concept to a micro-level two years ago, when he decided to form a co-op of “local tenants driven by quality and passion to their products.” Not only did Soloman envision a space where his years of experience in the restaurant industry could be put to good use, he had a specific goal for his co-op: he would reclaim used shipping containers to build it. There’s “nothing really like it,” Soloman said, explaining that while there have been other spaces designed with shipping containers, his are the only ones of their kind, constructed with custom fabricated parts and electrical elements. The containers are costly to refurbish and prove challenging to engineer into livable spaces. The interiors often bear traces of pesticides from their previous lives holding grains or produce, so they have to be thoroughly cleansed and treated before they’re Green Jeans Farmery creates a space for community to gather. Photo by Stephanie Cameron. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


From providing a specific service, like Silver Street Market, to creating a communitycentered business co-op like Green Jeans Farmery, to developing a fusion town center that will work like an Albuquerque hub, local business owners are taking a community approach to renovating their city. 70

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safe to work in. In one sense, Green Jeans Farmery, where twelve complementary vendors now put up shop, is a prototype for future projects in other cities. The “most gratifying thing is that it really is very close to what I imagined,” Soloman shared. When I asked about the farmery component, he told me that the first step in this co-op project had been to complete a fully self-contained hydroponic garden—in a shipping container—but zoning and city laws wouldn’t permit that. While no food is actually grown on the premises, he’s pleased with the end result. Soloman handpicked the vendors located at 36 Cutler Avenue NE. There are no competing businesses, and the items sold range from craft beer to espresso to clothing. Attention to the quality of products is key, in Solomon’s opinion, to the co-op’s success. Startups nestle among anchored businesses. “Without the quality of product and positive energy,” he said, his project wouldn’t have been successful. Over and over he emphasized the vendors that Green Jeans supports, who in turn support the shared space. The privately funded project that’s built on a complicated space “riddled with easements,” grew from a desire to “be an advocate for small, local businesses.” What Solomon has created is a “traffic hub” uniquely advantageous to small businesses. His model demonstrates that intentionally situated businesses fare better than those operating in isolation.

Art Gallery • Vegetarian Cuisine • Live Music See our website for August and September events and hours.

Going niche, like Green Jeans Farmery, is one way to stand out and succeed in the business world. Taking advantage of the economies of scale is another. In 2007, Gary Goodman of Goodman Realty saw an opportunity where others saw a depressed historic mall. Why not take Winrock Mall, the first regional mall between Los Angeles and Dallas, and restore its place as a landmark site? According to Goodman’s PR, Darin Sand, that means making a space that has a “special place in people’s minds and lives.” Sand shared that Goodman’s vision includes “revitalization, spurring economic development, and providing a community asset.” Although Albuquerque is the largest city in New Mexico, it has lagged in keeping up with cities like Portland, Austin, and Boulder. Many New Mexico residents are concerned that young people leave the state looking for better opportunities. “Reinventing Albuquerque” is how Sand described the role he sees for the new Winrock Town Center. Goodman’s vision includes restoring the luster of Winrock’s history—Winthrop Rockefeller developed the mall in the sixties—in a radical new way: an intentional community space to live, work, and recreate.

4500 Silver Ave SE, Albuquerque, In Nob Hill at Jefferson 505.639.3401 •

The space Goodman envisions seems anything but ordinary for a Southwest landscape. Driven by “his passion to conserve natural resources,” water conservation is at the heart of the town center.

Beer and Wine · Happy Hour 4-6pm

Conceptual drawings of the new Winrock Town Center, which will be a a modern, large-scale, mixed-use infill development. The initial phase included a sixteen-screen movie theater (with an IMAX) as the major anchor, supported by retail, entertainment and restaurants. Subsequent phases will build out the remainder of the site with numerous retail, entertainment, restaurant, office, residential, hospitality, and community uses.

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1710 Central SW & 5901 Wyoming Blvd NE, Albuquerque 1032 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos 604 N Guadalupe St, Santa Fe




edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016

Winrock’s water treatment plant will enable greywater treatment on site. Greywater will be used for multiple projects, from providing irrigation for hundreds of fruit trees that fill the green at the heart of the new Winrock to feeding a lake surrounded by walking paths. If this seems like an unusual plan for a mall, it is. There’s actually a farmer on Winrock’s staff, and for the second consecutive year, grapes, strawberries, lavender, corn, garlic, and squash will be harvested from the eighty-four acre site. When the town center opens, Goodman plans to sell the produce raised on the grounds in an onsite farm store.


The uniqueness doesn’t stop there. Goodman utilizes rooftops for solar energy, and has researched wind power, too. In addition to a center-wide recycling program, the planners are considering pyrolysis, a waste disposal system that essentially reduces all waste to ash, which could then be used to amend soil on the site. A place where you can wash your dog, shop at Designer Shoe Warehouse, and walk home to sleep in your own apartment? Winrock Town Center offers that. While they intend to appeal to millennials with amenities like running paths, pet-friendly apartments, and bike rentals, they will have upscale condos attached to a hotel, with luxury offerings such as valet parking and housekeeping. Their wait list is well over five hundred. Darin estimates that five thousand five hundred new jobs will be created by the time the entire town center is up and running. It will also provide shops, like Nordstrom Rack, that are new to New Mexico. When asked what he thought was the most innovative feature of the new Winrock, he mentioned their emphasis on reinventing Albuquerque, making it into a destination city, and creating a space where people of all ages can imagine living in a conscious environment.

The most color ful outdoor dining in Santa Fe! Lunch Mon-Saturday • Dinner Every Eve 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 •

From providing a specific service, like Silver Street Market, to creating a community-centered business co-op like Green Jeans Farmery, to developing a fusion town center that will work like an Albuquerque hub, local business owners are taking a community approach to renovating their city. If Albuquerque has been in an urban slump, that may be coming to an end. With innovators and visionaries finding a way to fulfill their own dreams in ways that benefit their local communities, it seems like a win-win solution. 205 Silver SW, Albuquerque, 3600 Cutler NE, Albuquerque, 2100 Louisiana NE, Albuquerque Top left: Kelly and Rob Ortman at Silver Street Market. Top right: Backside of the Green Jeans Farmery. Bottom right: Entryway to the Green Jeans Farmery courtyard. Bottom left: Patrons can have food from any of the Green Jeans' eateries delivered to them while enjoying a beer at Santa Fe Brewing Co. All photos by Stephanie Cameron. WWW.EDIBLENM.COM



Colfax Tavern

Mapping has the potential to illuminate barriers and support systems to solve problems based on place. Being able to see these different health and food system indicators together in a graphic way often helps someone who is not a social scientist see connections between otherwise seemingly disparate data.


n 2014, while working for La Montaùita Co-op, I became fascinated with the distribution of food. I wanted to understand how food moved through New Mexico because it seemed like getting food to market was (and still is) a challenge for growers and consumers in rural areas. What I really wanted was a map—one that would help me understand the geographic relationships between where the Co-op sold food, and where growers produced it. Shortly after, I learned about the New Mexico Community Data Collaborative (NMCDC), a network of public health advocates and analysts from over a dozen state agencies and non-government organizations who believe in the value of community health assessment. This group


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uses large data sets, often to create maps, and trains organizations to use this data to assess the health of a community, to explain their work, and to access funding. I also met Sarah Haynes (now the Ideas for Cooking and Nutrition Coordinator for Bernalillo County Extension), a sharp social scientist with a passion for food and nutrition, who at the time was working as a grant writer with NMCDC. Haynes and I proposed that the Co-op consider a project with the NMCDC to better understand how they might improve distribution and collection at the Co-op Distribution Center. We collaborated to map local producers who sell to the Co-op, and to map distribution routes as a way to understand the geographic relation-

ships between these two. Ideally, we hoped we would see opportunities for the Co-op to not only bring food to new buyers in rural areas, but also to collect food from producers. In 2013, Haynes joined NMCDC because she believes that everyone has a right to healthy food, and has spent her career advocating for those who face challenges getting it. In early 2015, NMCDC, largely at her prompting, embarked on a food system assessment and mapping project called Food Environment and Education Database Project (Project FEED) that maps the intersections of food production and access in New Mexico, and shows how their geographic relationships affect public health. NMCDC uses geographic information systems (GIS) software to collect and decipher data related to health and food production statewide, and then shares these online, through an interactive website. The project is unique because it works directly with communities to train advocates to use this information as a tool to improve public health, as inspiration to collect their own data, and eventually to develop tools for analyzing whether or not they are having an impact. To create maps that are interactive and easy for a layperson or a health advocate to use, NMCDC primarily collects data from sources like the census, the US Department of Agriculture, public business records, and other community-generated sources. Data sets like the census have geographic information associated with each point, and these are translated to layers on an interactive map. On the NMCDC website, a person can see a map of his or her city or county and turn on layers showing grocery stores, farmers markets, poverty levels, number of children accessing free school lunch, and many others. Being able to see these different health and food system indicators together in a graphic way often helps someone who is not a social scientist— say a community leader, an elected official, or a philanthropist— make connections between otherwise seemingly disparate data. Mapping has the potential to illuminate barriers and support systems to solve problems based on place. But collecting good data, organizing it, and then crunching this information through complicated software can be intimidating, even to social scientists. Part of what Project FEED does is to recognize that there’s an ownership and information gap between the results of most social science research and its usability by community groups working to improve public health in their neighborhood. To accomplish this, Haynes and her collaborators sought out community groups, asking key food system questions that might be answerable using the Project FEED data maps, and then initiated a research project and a series of trainings. Their approach helps organizations get the information they need to compete for grants and philanthropic support, but also, ideally, enables them to do so independently in the future, using the NMCDC website. So why is having a good map of what’s happening in the food system important? Mapping can help clarify the issues, and point to solutions, around food and health. For example, last year, the National Center for Frontier Communities (NCFC) in-

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Populated Areas (Census Defined Places) New Mexico Counties USDA Food Deserts, 2012

NEW MEXICO FOOD ATLAS - Map Narrative A large and sparsely populated state, such as New Mexico, encounters many food distribution challenges. In 2010, there were 2,059,179 people living in New Mexico—a population density of seventeen people per square mile. Food Deserts The USDA defines a food desert as a community experiencing both low income and low access to a supermarket or large grocery store. How might this information be used to refine food bank distribution routes or incentivize new grocers? 76

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This data informs evidence-based decision making in New Mexico to plan and improve health and education service delivery, evaluate interventions and systems, and inform policy decisions. Visit to view more maps, scenes, and layers. Legend New Mexico Food Bank Pantries Roadrunner Food Bank Albuquerque The Food Depot Santa Fe Food Bank of Eastern NM/Clovis The Community Pantry Gallup ECHO, Inc. Farmington Others

% Limited Food Access, RURAL Census Tracts, 2013 % Low access, low-income people at 20 miles (Rural) > 20 to 75 > 7.2 to 20 > 1.9 to 7.2 > 0.55 to 1.9 0 to 0.55

% Limited Food Access, URBAN Census Tracts, 2013 % Low access, low-income people at 20 miles (Rural) > 20 to 75 > 7.2 to 20 > 1.9 to 7.2 > 0.55 to 1.9 0 to 0.55 WWW.EDIBLENM.COM


vestigated the feasibility of a food hub to aggregate fresh produce for distribution through food pantries (places where food is distributed for free to anyone who needs it) in an area where most communities, according to the USDA, are food deserts. A dominating question for NCFC was whether southwest New Mexico food pantries received the same quality food as more populated areas in the state. They used USDA data about types and quantities of food distributed to food pantries through the Emergency Food Assistance Program. What NCFC learned is that pantries in southwest New Mexico receive more shelf-stable food than pantries closer to cities because fresh food spoils before it can reach the pantry—or the person in need of food. They learned that the reasons for the discrepancies had everything to do with distance from donation points, usually located in Albuquerque. Ultimately, this led to a shift in the focus of NCFC’s work, from engaging the emergency food system to ways in which they could get more fresh food produced closer to the communities they support. By working throughout southwest New Mexico with farmers and gardeners to produce more food for local people, and by working to connect that food to pantries, the NCFC helps more fresh food get to those in need. Currently, NMCDC projects rely primarily on existing public data in their work with advocacy groups. According to Haynes, “Using existing data, like census information, is important because we, as citizens, pay for the creation of this information, and really should take full advantage of it.” She also says that for advocates looking to have a real impact on the health and welfare of their communities, success often comes down to having good data. But data created with governmental needs in mind doesn’t always align clearly with cultural or social priorities at a regional or neighborhood level.

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Part of what excites Haynes about her work is trying to inspire groups to understand the power of crafting their own research questions and gathering their own data to answer those questions effectively. Road Runner Food Bank has taken this idea to heart, engaging the services of NMCDC to map and interpret data on a number of their internal systems to improve their services. Some of the data they map, like locations and hours of operation of food pantries, goes onto publicly accessible maps, while other data sets with proprietary or client information are only used internally, to protect clients and improve food distribution. Research projects of this scale are time and labor intensive, and often their utility and impact take a long time to be fully recognized. Both the projects at the Co-op and at Road Runner have taken months or years to initiate, and they constantly evolve. Perhaps as important as the data they generate is the practice they develop in asking questions, then systematically exploring answers through data collection. The more that food and agriculture advocates in New Mexico embark on their own research and contribute to the collective database, the greater the potential for better—and more widespread—understanding of what works in our food system, and how this ultimately impacts public health.


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2016 Biodynamic Conference


Farming the Living Earth

November 16th through 20th Santa Fe Convention Center, NM Over 50 workshops exploring biodynamic principles and practices, agricultural wisdom of the Americas, living water, living soil, and much more, including:

Exploring the Mysteries of Biodynamic Wine

Making Biodynamic Compost

CSA Farms: Awakening Community Intelligence

Biodynamic Permaculture

Restoring the Health and Spiritual Integrity of Corn

From Seed to Grocery: Growing the BiodynamicÂŽ Marketplace

Plus ten inspiring keynote speakers, field trips, networking, delicious food, exhibits, and entertainment, all right here in Santa Fe. Register today! (262) 649-9212 x2

SMACKDOWN Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown

PASSPORT Passports valid though August 17, 2016

Available at participating restaurants and on: presented by





Top left, clockwise: 2015 Smackdown; Red Sage's competing green chile cheeseburger; sliders on the grill for the Smackdown tasting event; volunteer serving up burger bites with love.

2016 GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGER SMACKDOWN CONTENDERS ANNOUNCED The Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown will spotlight some of New Mexico’s most notorious burgers and world-class chefs. Restaurants will compete for the chance to reign as the Green Chile Cheeseburger Champ. Online voting by a public hungry to select the seven finalists began July 7 and runs through August 17. Final contestants will be announced on August 19. The Smackdown and judging for Reigning Chomp (Judge’s Award) and People’s Choice Award will be held at the Santa Fe Farmers Market Pavilion on Friday, September 9. The fifteen contenders competing for the seven finalist spots are: • Agave at the Eldorado Hotel & Spa • Anasazi Restaurant, Bar and Lounge • Bang Bite Filling Station • Blue Corn Brewery • Chama River Brewing Co. • Chef Toddzilla’s Mobile Cuisine 80

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• Freight House Kitchen + Tap • Living Room at Inn and Spa at Loretto • Loyal Hound • Plaza Café Southside • Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder • Rio Chama Steakhouse • Second Street Brewery • Terra at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado • The Palace Restaurant & Saloon New for 2016: Online voting will be promoted via Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown Passports, which provide a discount, redeemable at contending restaurants, on the competing burgers. Prizes for multiple passport stamps will be awarded at the Smackdown. You can pick up passports at any of the contender restaurants or print them online at Date: September 9, 2016 Early entrance tickets at 4:30pm, general public 5:30–8:00pm Location: Santa Fe Farmers Market Pavilion Information:

2017 DATE ANNOUNCED FOR THE SECOND ANNUAL FERMENTATION FESTIVAL Edible Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Taos, in partnership with the Hubbell House Alliance (HHA), launched the first-ever Fermentation Festival in New Mexico on June 25. Attendees sampled offerings that included sauerkraut, kombucha, salami, cheese, and fermented spirits. The day was packed with education, from tutorials on gut health and sourdough starters to the history of winemaking and the art of crafting your own root beer. “Thank you again for organizing the festival. It truly was one of the best run shows we've been to!” —Colin Dyck, Mudslide Stoneware “What an amazing event! The concept in itself was creative and obviously aligned with the interests of a wide variety of participants—us included. Our family represented three generations (from age sixtyfour to nine months), and we all found things to enjoy. We especially enjoyed the sourdough bread making presentation, the demonstration and tasting experience from the Algodones Distillery, the Darlands’ sampling of balsamic vinegars, and the animals in the children’s area. We appreciated being able to purchase some of those items we tasted and liked, and being able to support those local New Mexico folks.” —Tom and Jeanne Vosburgh, attendees Proceeds from this event benefited the HHA, dedicated to educating the public about, promoting interest in, and advocating for the Gutiérrez-Hubbell House History and Cultural Center. The HHA ensures access to the property and provides quality historical, cultural, and agricultural programs and events. At the 2016 festival, edible was able to raise $4,700, the largest amount a single fundraising event has generated for the HHA. Edible and HHA have secured Saturday, June 24, 2017, for next year’s Fermentation Festival. Rumor has it that Sandor Katz may be in attendance. If interested in being a vendor or presenter, please visit our website.




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New Mexico has its own unique food traditions








—from Hatch to Chimayó—and we’d like to help you find some of the area's restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food. SUPPORT THESE RESTAURANTS, AND SUPPORT LOCAL FOOD COMMUNITIES.

colombian bistro

now open

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a role in our choice of ingredients.


New Location Open in Old Town! Country Club Plaza, 1710 Central SW, Albuquerque Green Jeans Farmery, 3600 Cutler NE, Albuquerque 505-554-1967, New Mexico’s first and only certified Neapolitan pizzeria, creating Neapolitan recipes with house-made fresh ingredients and local flavor.

Brew by

villa myriam

311 Gold SW, Albuquerque 505-814-1599, Family-owned from farm to cup, we are steeped in three generations of coffee excellence.

610 Central NW, Albuquerque 505-508-3330, Located in the heart of Albuquerque’s Downtown, Duel Brewing is the largest taproom in New Mexico. Specializing in serving locally brewed Belgian-style beer and offering a wide variety of freshly made European dishes.

5 8917 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-503-7124, A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm.

11225 Montgomery NE, 505-271-0882 3403 Central NE, 505-266-7855 10701 Corrales NW, 505-899-7500 A contemporary Italian Trattoria, offers authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer.

1710 Central SW, Albuquerque 5901 Wyoming NE, Albuquerque 505-821-1909,

3600 Cutler NE (Carlisle & I-40), Albuquerque

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, entrees, salads, a kids menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

A unique indoor/outdoor gathering place that builds on ingenuity, localist choices, healthy living, and neighborhood. Food, drink, fitness, fashion and fun!

3222 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-0607, Breakfast and lunch all day! Sweet and savory regular and gluten-free crepes, tortas, burritos, empanadas, and handmade pies. Delicious coffee and a wonderful large outdoor patio. Mon–Fri 7am–5pm | Sat–Sun 8am–5pm

4803 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque 505-344-9297, Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley region. Join us at La Merienda, Wed-Sun 6 - 9pm, by reservation only.




4003 Carlisle NE, Albuquerque 505-884-3625,

1403 Girard NE, Albuquerque 505-792-1700,

Handmade sweet and savory pies with pure flavors and premium ingredients, locally roasted coffee and espresso drinks. Mention this ad to get 15% off your order!

Our fabulous small-plate Italian creations are crafted from the finest, freshest ingredients; organic, farm-raised, and locally sourced. Featuring a beer and wine bar.

10601 Montgomery NE, Albuquerque 505-294-9463, California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms. Wine tastings and happy hour.

The Cellar 2031 Mountain NW, Albuquerque 505-766-5100, Oak-fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining Old Town has to offer!

1025 Lomas NW, Albuquerque 505-242-3117,

600 Central SE, Albuquerque 505-248-9800,

An oasis of casual elegance where delicious wines, local microbrews on tap, and sophisticated tapas cuisine will transport you to Old Spain. Tuesday-Saturday, 11am-9:30pm

The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia coffee and tea, beer, wine and signature sweets.


2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795, Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.

4500 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505.639.3401, Art Gallery • Vegetarian Cuisine • Live Music See our website for August and September hours and events.


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413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

3423 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-255-8226, Zacatecas features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. Zacatecas is a real taqueria.

Speakeasy 6855 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-341-0831, Make your reservations early and wait for the word. Cloaked behind the guise of a liquor store, the ever so popular "speakeasy" is a place where one can imbibe in their favorite alcoholic beverage while enjoying the posh atmosphere, live entertainment, and elegant food.

3009 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-254-9462, A three level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites!


A NA SAZ I RESTAURANT 60 East San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-983-6138,

113 Washington, Santa Fe 505-988-3236,

Committed to providing conscious quality coffee from crop to cup. Fresh, superior grade, coffee beans responsibly sourced from trusted growers at peak harvest for stand-out flavor and the highest coffee experience.

The recently redesigned restaurant and bar celebrates the creative spirit of Santa Fe with a new chic, sophisticated design that complements the buildings’s legendary architecture. Featuring Southwestern cuisine with regional Latin influences.

218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe 505-983-2100, Arroyo Vino, voted a top 100 restaurant in America by OpenTable reviewers, serves progressive American fare inspired by our on-premise garden and local purveyors.

5 505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-469-2345,

1228 Parkway Drive, Santa Fe 505-474-5301,

604 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-983-8977,

Fresh. Local. Tasty. A bunch of food enthusiasts obsessed with serving the very best crafted food we can get and delivering it the way it was meant to be enjoyed.

New Mexico’s only Belgian-style brewery offering a diverse selection of specialized locally made craft beer, a curated menu of beer-friendly eats and a warm, friendly environment.

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrees, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

95 W Marcy, Santa Fe 505-984-1091,

321 W San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-986-8700,

72 W Marcy, Santa Fe 505-982-3433,

A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list.

A contemporary Italian trattoria, offers authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer.

With the feel of a lively European wine bar, La Boca offers modern Spanish tapas, unique international wine selections, and an extensive list of Spanish sherries.


125 E Palace, Santa Fe 505-988-5232,

100 E San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-982-5511,

228 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-989-1904,

A local favorite for over thirty years! Chef Jose Rodriguez features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list.

Showcasing contemporary interpretations of old favorites with New World influences and classic New Mexican cuisine, accompanied by an awardwinning wine list.

Enjoy fresh, authentic, Italian street food; house-made gelato; Lavazza espresso; and wine and beer all day long on our beautiful sidewalk patio.




505 Cerrillos and 1098 S St. Francis, Santa Fe 505-982-9692,

58 South Federal, Santa Fe 505-986-5858,

The original specialty, local micro-roasted coffee source since 1984. Along with our fresh beans, we serve espresso, pour-over, teas, pastries, donuts, burritos, chocolates, and more.

An authentic Italian restaurant in Santa Fe, assuring us all that Italy never feels too far away. Gracious service mixed with fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farms to create homemade items.

815 Early, Santa Fe 505-989-1288,

20 Buffalo Thunder, Santa Fe 505-819-2056,

An organic juice bar and café committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, cold-pressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs.

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list.

304 Johnson, Santa Fe 505-989-1166, A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list.

101 W Marcy, Santa Fe 505-629-8786, Chef-made panini, sandwiches, salads, soups, espresso & more for weekday takeout or dine-in. Monday to Friday, 9am–4pm.


548 Agua Fria Street, Santa Fe 505-930-5325, Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. We work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu.

500 Sandoval Street, Santa Fe 505-467-8237, State Capital Kitchen, connected to local farmers, ranchers, and foragers. Crafts food with love, consisting of progressive courses. Choose from carts or our menu.

653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-982-4353, The Compound Restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Chef Mark Kiffin continues to preserve a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution.


Creative Casual Cuisine 142 W Palace, Santa Fe 505-428-0690, New American farm-to-table. The wild west decor of the 1850s provides a distinct atmosphere for elegant dining and relaxed bar fare. Dinner Tuesday–Saturday.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016

5 Thomas, Los Lunas 505-866-1936, Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living.

221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.


5 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-1977, Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Patio dining, fresh local foods, award-wining wines, and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos.

1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos 575-758-8484,

100 State Highway 150, El Prado 575-776-8787,

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrees, sandwiches, salads, a kids menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

A casual yet refined dining experience featuring world class wines and culinary delights inspired by regional American cuisines with a touch of international flair.


103 E Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-1994,

908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989

103 E Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-8866,

/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop‌in Taos.

Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.

Our menu is straightforward yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible.

Sipping Socials Unique pop-up experiences that celebrate local food. Sign up for our weekly newsletter to be in the know.






by Enrique Guerrero, Bang Bite Serves 4 – 6

1/2 pound shrimp marinated with olive oil, lime juice, and a little chipotle juice for about ½ hour 1 1/2 cups chilled Clamato juice 1/4 cup Hatchup Katchup (if using regular ketchup, add 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce) 1/2 cup lime juice 1 chipotle en adobo, blended or well diced Salt to taste 1/2 cup red onion, finely chopped 2 jalapeños, finely chopped 2 tomatoes, finely diced 1/4 cup cilantro, chopped 1 firm-ripe Mexican avocado, peeled, pitted, grilled and then cut into small chunks 1/2 pound (1 cup) fresh lump crabmeat, picked over 3/4 Silver tequila, or New Mexico lager or blond ale Lime and salt Grill marinated shrimp. Stir together Clamato juice, Hatchup ketchup, lime juice, chipotle, salt, onion, jalapeños, tomatoes, and cilantro in a large bowl, then gently stir in avocado, crabmeat, and shrimp. If using tequila, mix the tequila with the shrimp mix. If using beer, 1/2 glass beer – 1/2 glass shrimp mix. Spoon into 6- or 8-ounce glasses or cups, garnish with lime and salt, and serve. Accompany with tortilla chips, oyster crackers, or saltines (optional). Note: Several other kinds of fresh seafood also work well with this cocktail, including oysters, grilled octopus, and clams.


edible Santa Fe | LATE SUMMER 2016