Early Summer 2016: Wellness

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Local Food,Season








The Girl of the Golden West

Robert Godwin photo

Roméo et Juliette




Don Giovanni










First-Time Buyers who are NM Residents

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The 60 th anniversary season is filled with powerful love stories, including Puccini’s The Girl of the Golden West. This Gold Rush-era story, set in Minnie’s saloon, inspired a multitude of western films. Join us to experience one of the most unique performance settings ever created. Arrive early with a tailgate supper to enjoy the sunset and mountain views.


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855-674-5401 www.fourseasons.com/santafe

800-955-4455 www.eldoradohotel.com

800-727-5531 www.innatloretto.com




800-378-7946 www.druryplazasantafe.com


Making every moment count


Los Alamos National Bank

Creating a better way.

Telephone: 505-662-5171 Toll Free: 800-684-5262 LANB.com


Equal Housing Lender



GRIST FOR THE MILL By Willy Carleton and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher





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Cheesemongers of Santa Fe, Kaune's Neighborhood Market, and Red Tractor Farm


75 EAT LOCAL GUIDE 80 LAST BITE Bang Bite Cantarito by Enrique Guerrero


FERMENTI'S PARADOX A Deeper Draft by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher


All Salads, All the Time and an interview with Dr. Lori Eanes by Sarah Wentzel-Fisher


DIGGING IN A Recipe for Sustainability by Natalie Bovis





Old Roots, New Wines by Cameron Weber Osuna Nursery by Stephanie Cameron




A Powerful Plate by Candolin Cook


Disruption by Kate Manchester

Vintage Albuquerque and Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria Healthfully Whole by Laura Jean Schneider



Sunrise Springs Resort, Cañon del Rio, and El Monte Sagrado Living Resort & Spa by Stephanie Cameron

Fermentation. Photo by Stephanie Cameron.

56 TO FARM ANOTHER YEAR By Mark DeRespinis

62 BACTERIA AT WORK IN THE KITCHEN Modern Revival of Ancient Fermentation Processes Delivers Delicious Results by Katherine Mast

70 A TALE OF TWO PLANTS Southwest Natives Face Brave New Challenges by Keiko Ohnuma WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


GRIST FOR THE MILL A few years ago Jodi Vevoda, our edible publishing consultant, asked why we didn’t spend more time talking about wellness in our magazine. At the time, we wanted to prioritize the surfeit of stories about food and food production. In reflection though, wellness is a broad and complicated topic, not one easy to cover in a single issue, nor easy to communicate in clear and nuanced ways. In this issue, we begin this conversation, but recognize it is just the start of a much longer discussion on the questions, “What is wellness? And how does it happen?” Historically, many cultures have recognized New Mexico as a place for convalescence and a place conducive to exploring wellness and the meaning of health. Yet just as our state has been a site of healing for many, it has also fallen short of providing adequate conditions for widespread health and wellness in significant ways. Our state has poor overall health outcomes, including high levels of hunger, obesity, suicide, homicide, and accidents. Approaching this issue, we discussed wellness in the context of our own lives and health issues—part of being human is dealing with imperfect bodies that constantly need attention. What we came to appreciate is that wellness is more a process than a state of being. Western medicine is often prescriptive, with a focus on resolving acute discomfort or bodily malfunction—it often focuses on bringing a person back to feeling normal. But feeling normal is different than wellness. Wellness is an iterative process where every day a person tunes into the shifting needs, desires, and demands of his or her body, mind, and spirit, and adapts accordingly.

PUBLISHERS Bite Size Media, LLC Stephanie and Walt Cameron

EDITORS Willy Carleton and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher


COPY EDITORS Margaret Marti and Candolin Cook

DESIGN AND LAYOUT Stephanie Cameron

PHOTOGRAPHY Stephanie Cameron, Danny López, Cherie Montoya, Carole Topalin

EVENT COORDINATORS Natalie Donnelly and Gina Riccobono



In this issue, we offer a small glimpse into the intersections of food and wellness. Food can significantly contribute to personal health, the health of our environment, and the health of our communities, when produced and consumed through a practice of wellness. The ways we farm and garden, the ways we prepare food and eat it, and the ways we support local food businesses all affect our personal and collective wellness. You cannot buy wellness; going to a spa, drinking a kombucha, or dining out for an Ayurvedic meal will hardly ensure long-term health—though they may help on your journey. Wellness comes from listening to your body daily, and acting on what you hear. It must be cultivated and maintained through personal and collective decisions that range from what’s for dinner to who’s our next president. So here’s to practicing wellness! Take a moment to slow down and listen to your body, to examine your relationships, and to experience the landscape.

Willy Carleton and Sarah Wentzel-Fisher, Editors

Stephanie and Walt Cameron, Publishers

Winner of James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Publication of the Year


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

CONTACT US: 3301-R Coors Boulevard NW #152 Albuquerque, NM 87120 info@ediblesantafe.com www.ediblesantafe.com Phone/Fax: 505-212-0791

SUBSCRIBE ∙ BUY AN AD ∙ LETTERS 505-212-0791 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM We welcome your letters. Write to us at the address above, or email us at INFO@EDIBLESANTAFE.COM Bite Size Media, LLC publishes edible Santa Fe six times a year. We distribute throughout central and northern New Mexico and nationally by subscription. Subscriptions are $32 annually. Printed at American Web Denver, Colorado No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publisher. © 2016 All rights reserved.

#EDIBLENM ediblesantafe TAG us or use #ediblenm and your Instagram pics could be featured here. We pick our two favs every issue. #WeLoveOurReaders

wanderertaos Reading about where to eat in Marfa, since we will be there all Memorial Weekend for a rad pop up event. All the exciting details to be announced soon, but for now, where should we go!? @ediblesantafe

marnely_murray Goodnight moon, goodnight #Albuquerque. Tucking into bed at @lospoblanos inn + moisturized with their locally made lavender lotion + reading @ediblesantafe. Sweet dreams! #365teasin2016



CONTRIBUTORS STEPHANIE CAMERON Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and got a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. After photographing, testing, and designing a cookbook in 2011, she and her husband Walt began pursuing Edible Communities and they found edible Santa Fe in their backyard. Today, Cameron is the art director, head photographer, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible Santa Fe.

KATE MANCHESTER Kate Manchester is the former publisher of edible Santa Fe. She lived in Santa Fe from 2006 to 2012. Now in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania, Kate is the director of licensing and publisher training for Edible Communities. Find her at Kate@ediblemedia.com

NATALIE BOVIS Natalie Bovis founded TheLiquidMuse.com, Santa Fe Cocktail Week, and New Mexico Cocktails & Culture festival (June 2016), and she co-founded OM Organic Mixology Liqueurs. She hosts Digging In: A Recipe for Sustainability, an edible Santa Fe video program, and has authored three cocktail books, including Edible Cocktails: GardenTo-Glass. A bar consultant and spirits educator, she was named one of four women leading the liquor industry by Bustle.com.

bles in backyard gardening and vermicomposting.

WILLY CARLETON Willy Carleton lives in Albuquerque and is an avid vegetable grower, forager, and editor of edible Santa Fe. He is writing a dissertation on the agricultural history of twentieth-century New Mexico in the history department at the University of New Mexico. CANDOLIN COOK Candolin Cook is a history doctoral student at the University of New Mexico and an associate editor for the New Mexico Historical Review. She spends much of her free time growing flowers and washing radishes at Vida Verde Farm, an organic vegetable farm in Albuquerque's North Valley, which she co-owns with her husband. Follow her farm life on Instagram: @candolin and @vidaverdefarmabq. MARK DERESPINIS Mark DeRespinis is a farmer, photographic artist, foodie, and new father. He encourages everyone to celebrate seasonal and local abundance every day in a new, or old, or really any old way.


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

KATHERINE MAST Katherine Mast is a freelance science and environmental writer living in Santa Fe, where she dab-

KEIKO OHNUMA ​Keiko Ohnuma published The Bosque Beast, a magazine for Rio Grande animal-lovers, until last January. She writes, eats, and cooks in Corrales with a husband, two terriers, a ridiculous number of squirrels, and a hopelessly dug-up garden. LAURA JEAN SCHNEIDER Laura Jean Schneider lives on the Mescalero Apache Reservation, Ruidoso. Her writing has appeared in the Montana Quarterly and New Mexico Magazine, and on The Writer magazine's website. She is the author of Ranch Diaries, a bi-monthly web series for High Country News about working ranch life. Find her at laurajeanschneider.com. CAMERON WEBER Cameron Weber is a planner and conservationist in Albuquerque. She will gladly talk native plants with you at Plants of the Southwest or introduce you to landscape restoration at an Albuquerque Wildlife Federation volunteer project. A lover of all things fermentation, she makes wine and encourages wine curiosity. SARAH WENTZEL-FISHER Sarah Wentzel-Fisher is the editor of edible Santa Fe. She also works for the Rio Grande Farmers Coalition and the Quivira Coalition New Agrarian Program, and wants you (yes, all of you) to consider growing food. In her free time she visits farms (she highly recommends this activity), experiments in her kitchen, and keeps chickens in her backyard.

LOCAL HEROES Every year edible Santa Fe recognizes a group of amazing individuals and organizations for their work to create a healthy, sustainable food system in New Mexico. We determine these Local Hero awards through reader nomination and a reader poll. The local food movement is a grassroots effort that often involves late nights, backbreaking work, getting your hands

dirty, checking your ego at the door, and generally being a good sport. In an effort to showcase these individuals, organizations, and businesses for their work to build a stronger local economy and a robust local food system, each issue of edible spotlights several of the winners about the work they do.

Cheesemongers of Santa Fe


John Gutierrez of Cheesemongers of Santa Fe. 6

edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016




Cold case at Cheesemongers of Santa Fe.

Cheesemongers of Santa Fe features a cut-to-order selection of domestic and international cheeses, cured meats, antipasti, and other grocery products. They specialize in smaller-scale and farmstead produced goods, and work closely with many local and regional producers. In the shop, customers have the opportunity to work one-on-one with an expert to sample and learn about products, pairings, and cooking tips. Every interaction is an opportunity to share the love of cheese, and help reestablish real, traditionally-made cheese as a treasured and exciting part of our collective culinary and cultural fabric. In our present food landscape, cheese can be ordinary in our lives, yet extraordinary to eat.

What do you love most about local food? Why? I love local food because it supports and represents the beautiful, hard work and the livelihood of the people who grow it and the people's lives who are affected by it downstream.

Tell us a little about yourself and your path to Santa Fe. Most people are surprised to learn I'm twenty-eight, and that this is the seventh cheese shop that I have worked in or helped open. Cheesemongers of Santa Fe is the first shop owned by me. People ask me if I studied cheese. I didn't study cheese, I studied international human rights law and trade law, and music at the University of Oklahoma. My most serendipitous moment was when I visited Oklahoma where I had previously worked as a cheesemonger. I met up with the owners of a shop there and birthed the idea of opening my own shop in Santa Fe.

If you weren't doing what what you're doing now, what would you be doing? I had moved to California to get my emergency medical technician certification because I had been doing search and rescue. If I had chosen that path, I’m not sure where I would be. But, I fell back into what I loved, cheese.

What do you love most about your work? I love connecting people because relationships are the most important thing we do—from the producers to the customers we work with. We love sharing information. If I could spend all of my time with consumers and not working the books, etc., I would. The education side of what I do is so important, and making connections with people and teaching them about everything you could want to know about cheese—from the history to making your own.

What gets you fired up? Why? The whole food and agriculture movement. It's so multifaceted—it's political in addition to being economic. I consider myself an activist because I advocate for farmstead-scale and small-scale producers. What I do for a living is supportive and educational. I think it is important to engage people and share information. I try to bridge the gap between producers and consumers that has grown over the last several decades. Food and water are the most important issues that exist today. Cheesemongers of Santa Fe hosts a regular series of cheese classes, tastings, guest lectures, and culinary demonstrations. Book a seat, and join Cheesemongers for an evening of fun and fromage! 130 E Marcy, Santa Fe, 505-795-7878 www.cheesemongersofsantafe.com


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016




Cheryl Pick Sommer of Kaune's.


Kaune's Neighborhood Market is here to satisfy. Established in 1896 with a focus on quality, service, and unexpected finds, Santa Fe’s oldest grocery Chef storeDavid retains its initial values. not be your Sellers (top left) withKaune’s past SFImight students everyday market, but theVernon small grocer’s curated products can Carrie Avritt, Pajarito,carefully and Alfredo Trujillo. make everyday a special occasion. You'll still find your favorite staples, but there's so much more to delight your taste buds. From fresh baked breads and handcrafted chocolates to flavorful and easy meals in minutes, Kaune's wants you to take time to nourish, indulge, and celebrate each and every day. 10

edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

To learn a little more about Kaune’s, we talked with Cheryl Pick Sommer, president of the market and owner since 2003. In addition to her work at Kaune’s, Sommer holds a law degree, and puts her experience and education to work with many community organizations including the board of the National and New Mexico Grocers Associations, boards of the Food Industry Self Insurance Fund, City of Santa Fe Audit Committee, Santa Fe Community Advisory Board for U.S. Bank, and Board of El Castillo – a life care community. We asked her to share why she loves local food and her work at Kaune’s.

What do you love most about local food? I appreciate the creativity of local food and food from small, independent producers. It takes bravery and hard work to put a different idea into the very busy marketplace and be successful, and I think local and small producers do it well. I admire that. My current work allows involvement with two favorites: people and food. I have always enjoyed the camaraderie of co-workers and working in the service industry. Owning Kaune's allows me that opportunity every day with an extraordinary staff and a loyal customer base. Food, in addition to being a necessity, is an integral part of our social interaction with others. Sharing ideas, introducing our customers to high quality, unique products, or simply providing the ingredients which allow our customers to create their own successful meals is very rewarding. And fun.

How did you get to where you are now? Growing up in the Pick household taught me to be kind, outgoing, and independent. I started as an attorney. Over twelve years ago, my husband Kurt and I bought Kaune's, and I gave up my practice to run the grocery store. I did not know enough to be appropriately scared of the fiercely competitive business I was entering. So, I showed up for work every day, learned from all of my employees, vendors, and any other professionals and friends who were willing to share information with me.

What makes you laugh? Why? Thankfully, many things, because laughing is fun and good for me. Certainly my own foibles make me laugh because I cannot and should not take myself too seriously. With its long history, creative inventory, and strong community ties, Sommer sees to it that Kaune’s exemplifies the kind of local food business that makes Santa Fe a vibrant marketplace for food lovers. One edible reader best captured Somner’s contribution to our community: “Cheryl has been a pillar in the Santa Fe grocery scene for many years. She has elevated Kaune’s to a comfortable and upscale boutique market that offers the basics as well as new and unusual food products for foodies and non-foodies alike… and has a great wine department. She’s a conscientious employer and buys from local farm sources, as well. She’s an all-around great contributor to the local, edible food scene who deserves to be recognized for her efforts.” Stop by Kaune’s between 8am to 6:50pm, Monday through Saturday, to find inspiring and unusual items for your next meal. INDULGE Tastings Wednesdays 4:30 – 6:00pm. Every week enjoy new tastes, from wines and spirits to cheeses and chocolates.


511 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, 505-982-2629 www.kaunes.com




Red Tractor Farm


From left to right: Nerissa Muus, Dory Wegryzn, and Casey Holland.

Red Tractor Farm is a women-owned, small farm based in Albuquerque’s South Valley. Together with the support of CSA volunteers, Dory Wegryzn, Nerissa Muus, and Casey Holland grow a variety of fresh vegetables, herbs, and flowers using organic (not yet certified) and non-pesticide practices. As participants in the local foodshed, they bring folks both fresh produce and the opportunity to learn about being stewards of land and water. These gals love to get down and dirty at the Downtown Growers Market, where they encourage you to stop by and talk tomatoes anytime.

Over the past six years, she has played a role in each of Downtown

Outside of the farm, this team works hard to make Albuquerque a better place. Wegryzn has worked with nonprofit organizations as an urban planner and affordable housing developer for twenty-five years.

Holland: I love Albuquerque's community surrounding local food. I


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

Albuquerque's five affordable apartment developments (all LEED certified) with a focus on access to transit, healthy foods, and services. In addition to responsibilities as farm manager, Muus, Wegryzn’s partner in all things, is an engineer for a mechanical, piping, and electrical engineering firm. Holland is on the boards of the Agri-cultura Cooperative Network and the Rio Grande Farmers Coalition.

What do each of you love most about local food? Why? have met so many wonderful people through my involvement. I am incredibly excited to see where else it takes me.

Muus: [I love] when someone has created the most basic food or dish, and he or she accentuates it with the simplicity of an herb or method of cooking, sending one's palate in awe. Wegryzn: [And I love that] the taste of produce is outstanding and the fact that a bag of lettuce will last three weeks instead of three days, and that I still have carrots from last fall in my fridge. But mostly I love the genuine joy and gratitude of people who buy our produce, Polish pickles or apricot or elderberry jam and say how much they appreciate that we do what we do. It is priceless.

We’d like to know a little more about you. How did you come to this work? Holland: Growing up in Deming taught me how important a sense of place is. We always had a strong sentiment of being proud New Mexicans. My last semester of college I started an internship with a food justice group in town called Project Feed the Hood. Seeing firsthand the power of access to healthy, nutritious food turned my life around. Previously, the seemingly insurmountable nature of the world's problems had made me rather apathetic. However, when I started farming I realized that it was a way to directly address a majority of the world's ills. Muus: I was born and raised in Manila, Philippines, traveled stateside when I was six years old, and didn't speak any English. The joy of sweat, hard work, getting dirty, and seeing the fruits of your labor—this is from my upbringing . . . my mom. She taught me early on to be strong, independent, to extend yourself and care for others. As a child, I never discerned who was or wasn't a blood relative. Our home was always open to those who came. Wegryzn: Growing up in New Jersey until I was thirteen taught me to be tough and endure. Before the farm, I had gardens and always planted a small one. The year I recovered from cancer, I decided to clean up my weedy backyard and planted a few small rows of blue corn that grew twelve feet tall—and I was hooked.

What would you like to share with edible readers? Holland: This work isn't easy, but it is made easier knowing there are people out there supporting us. Wegryzn: Farming is really hard work. It is with great passion and perseverance that myself, my partner Nerissa, and our starring farm manager Casey are good stewards of the land to provide healthy local foods to our CSA members and our incredible supporters at Downtown Growers Market and Agri-cultura Network Farmers Coop. If you want to change the world and impact your environment, your economy and your health, then support local farmers and the businesses who buy local foods and the products made from local produce. And most of all, grow your own food! You can find Red Tractor Farm at the Downtown Growers Market located at Robinson Park, Eighth and Central, on Saturday mornings. www.redtractorfarm.net WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM




Now five days! Vintage Albuquerque, the city’s premier wine and food event, has added a fifth day. The festival features dinners throughout the city between Wednesday, June 22, and Sunday, June 26. The details and schedule are on their website.

Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria, New Mexico’s first and only certified Neapolitan pizzeria, announces its newest location in Country Club Plaza, near Old Town. Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria and Vino will feature an upscale environment and expanded menu.

Highlights include the Unique Perspective of California Wines seminar presented by Chuck Wagner, owner and winemaker of California’s Caymus Vineyards. The seminar includes tasting and a three vintage mini-vertical of Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon and a rare six-liter bottle of the 1991 vintage. Farm & Table will host a four-course brunch accompanied by four sparkling wines from around the world. The kick-off dinner is a five-course meal paired with five wines and served at Hotel Andaluz.

“Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria and Vino is the perfect restaurant for Country Club Plaza to compliment the success of Vinaigrette, Five Star Burgers, and The Draft Station taproom,” says Jay Rembe, Country Club Plaza developer and owner of Rembe Urban Design + Development. “The quality and distinction they bring to our market shouldn’t be missed.”

Dinners will take place throughout the city each day of the festival at participating restaurants and a grand tasting event will be on Friday at the Anderson Abruzzo Albuquerque International Balloon Museum. The event includes a live auction (with items such as signature wines and Napa Valley wine trips) and wine dinner will happen at the Albuquerque Country Club.

Amore uses the highest quality local and organic ingredients for their food, and this new location will showcase the attention to detail that inspires every dish. As is the case at the Green Jeans location, all of the dough, sauces, bread, and mozzarella at Amore Neapolitan Pizzeria and Vino are made fresh, daily, and on-site. The traditional pizza oven, lovingly called Claudia, was hand-crafted with mud, ash, and clay from Mt. Vesuvius for Amore, then shipped to Albuquerque from Naples, Italy.

This, Vintage Albuquerque's twenty-fifth year, features the city’s leading restaurants such as Zinc, Seasons, Farm & Table, Savoy, Elaine’s, Marcello’s Chophouse, Artichoke Cafe, M’tucci’s, Piatanzi, and Vintage 423. The organization will raise funds to benefit some New Mexico youth arts education nonprofits: Albuquerque Youth Symphony Program, NDI-NM, New Mexico Jazz Workshop, New Mexico Philharmonic, and Art in the School, Inc.

Owners Gabriel and Kimberly Amador, who met and fell in love in Naples, Italy, were trained and mentored by Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani President Roberto Caporuscio, owner and chef of New York City establishments Keste Pizza & Vino, and by Don Antonio of Starita. To celebrate the grand opening of the new location, Caporuscio will host a two-night event June 10 and 11, Dinner with the Masters. Call for reservations.

For more information or to buy tickets, call 505-323-3915 or visit www.vintagealbuquerque.org.

1710 Central SW and 3600 Cutler NE, Albuquerque 505-554-1967, www.amoreabq.com


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Healthfully Whole

NOURISHING BODY AND SOUL AT FARM & TABLE By Laura Jean Schneider “Wellness is the groundwork for everything we do here,” Cherie Montoya of Albuquerque’s Farm & Table restaurant told me in a recent interview. “We have a firm culture of taking care of people.” As our conversation continued, I began to see exactly what Montoya meant. With thirteen years of experience in the nonprofit sector, she applied her takeaway from that period of her life to her vision for her one-of-akind restaurant, believing that “the only way anything big happen[s] is [through] collective collaboration.” Montoya did not intend to start a restaurant, although she did put herself through college by selling organic juices and smoothies from a drink cart. She was just looking for a way to put land her father saved from development to good use. Now, in addition to productive alfalfa fields on the eleven-acre plot, Montoya leases two acres to a local farmer who provides fresh, year-round produce for Farm & Table via Sol Harvest Farm. 16

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Her commitment to the local economy includes partnerships with sixty-five New Mexico producers, and she estimates that local foods make up to ninety percent of their menu at any given time. Now in its fifth year, the restaurant has proved both viable—something she was initially told was impossible—and unique. Situated directly on the farm, diners have the opportunity to set foot on the soil their dinner comes from. Montoya firmly believes in a peoplebased, not product-based, restaurant industry. From the farmer in mud boots to the dishwasher, to the servers who have to memorize the stories behind complex menus nightly, at Farm & Table “we learn from everybody,” she adds humbly. She explains that while innovators often come up with the big ideas, it’s the worker-bee people who bring them to fruition. It’s clear that Montoya extends a feeling of family to her patrons. The non-hydrogenated oil she uses at her restaurant might cost

eight times what hydrogenated oil does, but it’s part of her commitment to producing the kind of meals she’d serve to her own grown children. How has she managed to implement a burgeoning restaurant model with such high standards and succeed? Vision. “It was an experiment,” Montoya admits, and it takes an incredible amount of hard work to keep everything running smoothly. She’s had four chefs in five years, been through a divorce, and feels the effects of New Mexico’s drought. It’s “challenging, but we love the challenge,” she said, emphasizing her goal of avoiding stagnation at all costs. When I asked what she felt was most responsible for her success, she listed the importance of trusting others and advised to “let go of ego and listen.” Montoya took her own advice to the community level two years ago, after a suggestion that she host the Indian musician Nimo. While she admitted it was intimidating at



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Opposite page: Much more than a restaurant, Danny López leads meditation. Photo by Cherie Montoya. Above: Also at the farm, Brian Beau Matzke (Dayal Prem Singh) leads a yoga session. Photo by Danny López.

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first, she committed to the idea, building a custom performance stage, and opening the concert and potluck dinner to the public free of charge. The result was, in Montoya’s words, “life-changing.” Since then, she’s wanted to make that space available to her North Valley community. “People are wanting genuine experiences,” she shared, from salads to soul. Montoya has gathered a group of local wellness professionals who will use the stage space as a locus for inner wellness work. Beginning in May, yoga will happen the first Saturday of every month until October. A meditation circle is in the works for Wednesdays. All events will be free. A culture of regeneration at the restaurant comes naturally. “It’s about giving back,” said Montoya. Hard-to-compost materials, like bones leftover from locally sourced meat, are taken to Soilutions, a composting facility in Albuquerque, then purchased back in compost form and worked into the farm’s soil.

Velocity is another word Montoya used. While she’s been asked to open other restaurants and venture from the farm, she’s committed to the trajectory of Farm & Table. “I feel I’ve just scratched the surface,” she shared, and she wants to see what’s ahead. Likening the process to gardening from seed, she feels that if one can make it from the growing season to the harvest season, one can make it for the long haul. By nurturing body and soul, Montoya’s farm and restaurant provide a holistic experience like no other. If you’re revamping your personal wellness plan, Farm & Table might just be the place to start.

Happy Gardening! Payne’s Organic Soil Yard (POSY) 6037 Agua Fria 505-424-0336 Payne’s South 715 St. Michael’s Dr. 505-988-9626 Payne’s North 304 Camino Alire 505-988-8011

Yoga: Saturday mornings at 9:30am Meditation: Wednesday evenings at 6pm 8917 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-503-7124 www.farmandtablenm.com




From top left, clockwise: The many spices of Ayurveda; one of Agni Ayureveda's treatments; Lisa Costlow, Chef Prakash Jagadappa, and Emily Glaser; Jagadappa teaching cooking class. Photos courtesy of Agni Ayurveda.

A Powerful Plate

AGNI AYURVEDA HELPS BRING BALANCE TO MIND AND BELLY By Candolin Cook Confession: I love food, but food does not always love me. For me, succumbing to cravings for milkshakes, meatballs in red sauce, or chicken tikka masala can only lead to heartache—or heartburn—and a digestive system that rues the day I ever laid eyes on those green chile cheese fries. Although I don’t always eat like a truck driver, my affinity for sapidity generally impedes wise food choices. I recently met with the team at Santa Fe’s Agni Ayurveda, a natural health center that offers nutritional health coaching, prepared Ayurvedic meals, cleanses, and cooking classes (among other therapeutic treatments) to find out about the health and taste benefits of Ayurvedic eating. 18

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Agni’s clinical practitioners Emily Glaser and Lisa Costlow explain that Ayurveda—the science of life—is a five-thousand-year-old Indian holistic healing system that incorporates everything from diet to breathing and massage to skin care. Its purpose is to restore balance in the mind and body. Adherents claim it can help with diabetes, arthritis, celiac disease, allergies, and a host of digestive issues. Usually Agni’s clients come in because they are experiencing a health problem, but many simply want to improve their family’s eating habits, have more energy, or seek a general sense of balance and well-being. “What yoga does for the mind, Ayurveda does for the body,” says Costlow. “They are sister sciences.”

Nutritional coaching at Agni begins with a ninety-minute consultation in which a client’s principle dosha (bio-energy) is identified. According to Ayurveda, three types of doshas—vata, pitta, and kapha—reflect natural elements and energy patterns in the body. Determining which of these energies is dominant in your physiology helps dictate what foods you should eat or avoid to balance your body and mind. Admittedly, I am a natural-born skeptic, but was intrigued when the team quickly identified me as a pitta, whose emotional and physical traits are strikingly similar to mine. (They could even tell by the way I was sitting that my hips weren’t in alignment, making my right

leg slightly shorter—something my chiropractor had deduced years ago.) Ayurveda uses food as tailored medicine, combining specific spices with certain vegetables and grains, and some dairy. “Digestion affects your whole health,” says Glaser, a registered nurse and Santa Fe native. “Ayurveda is all about finding balance through opposites.” As a pitta, fire is the dominant element in my constitution, which means I should seek out cooling foods such as mint tea, coconut oil, cucumber, cardamom, coriander, and turmeric. Of course, once you know what you should be eating, you then need to know how to prepare it, and, most importantly for me, how to make it delicious. Enter Chef Prakash Jagadappa. He was born in India and grew up in a traditional household that adhered to Ayurvedic food practices. Jagadappa has spent the last twenty years cooking professionally at a temple in Mumbai, and for restaurants in Melbourne, Australia, Albuquerque, and Santa Fe. For two years he has taught weekly cooking classes and prepared daily takehome meals at Agni. He explains that there are six tastes (rasas): sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent, and astringent, and that all should be incorporated into every meal. Food combining is integral. Ayurveda contends that certain foods’ tastes and energies digest well together, while others do not. Jagadappa explains that Ayurvedic eating is “not a diet, it is a lifestyle about how you commune with food and your environment.” For example, don’t eat while arguing, or in a car, or watching TV. Try to eat while you are in a mode of goodness.” Other considerations, like time of day and year, are important, too. “You should eat your biggest meal at noon when the sun is high; this is when your digestion is strongest.” Eating seasonally is also key. “Our bodies have a relationship with nature, and [instinctively] you eat differently on a cold day than you would a hot one.” As such, Jagadappa recommends eating well-cooked, easy to digest soft foods like soups and kabocha squash in the fall and winter; then shift to lightly sautéed seasonal greens like arugula and mustard in the spring; and cool melon and cilantro in the summer to balance internal and external factors. “It is very common sense.”

Eating fresh, seasonal ingredients is central to Ayurveda, says Jagadappa, because food contains a prana or life force. The faster you can consume a fresh ingredient, the more likely you are to capture its life force. He therefore seeks out the freshest, most nutritious, and tastiest local ingredients for Agni by shopping at the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market. Besides the fresh factor, supporting local food growers aligns with the Ayruvedic principle of mindful eating. Jagadappa says, “We always buy organic and non-GMO produce and spices because we want the food as close to nature as possible. You want fewer ingredients, and in their natural form.” Agni currently offers twenty different cooking classes, including sessions on making chyawanprasha (a sweet herbaceous jam) and churna (a medicinal mixture of herbs and minerals); gluten-free vegetable lasagna; and samosas. The chef ’s favorite dish is kitchari: yellow lentils and rice with roasted seasonal veggies (currently turnips, radishes), ghee (clarified butter), and lots of spices (coriander, ginger, mustard, cumin, turmeric). Patrons prepare and eat their meal together in a family-style setting. “I want to demystify Ayurvedic cooking for them,” says Jagadappa, “show them that it can be simple, but creative and delicious. It is cooking from the heart.” Glaser says she became interested in Ayurveda after years of studying and working in western medicine because she was tired of treating symptoms rather than getting to the root of a problem, or even preventing it in the first place. “Ayurveda is the king of preventive medicine,” she says. “It is way easier to keep people healthy, than to try and fix them once they are sick.” Costlow, who met Glaser while studying at Albuquerque’s renowned Ayurvedic Institute, concurs: “Listening to your body and making simple changes to stay healthy is empowering.” Listening to the Agni team while taking in the colorful sights and enticing smells of their kitchen certainly makes the prospect of trading in gut-busting burgers for more healthful dishes, not only palatable, but empowering. 1622 Saint Michaels, Santa Fe 505-4381163, www.agniayurveda.com


Left: The beer flight at Bow & Arrow Brewing Company. Right: Stainless steel 15-bbl steam-fired brew house.

A Deeper Draft

BOW & ARROW BREWING COMPANY By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher · Photos by Stephanie Cameron Missy Begay has just finished her last weeks of residency at the University of New Mexico Hospital. During her time there, she noticed that more than twenty percent of her Navajo patients supplemented their care with traditional medicine. Concerned about contraindications, Begay was curious about the substances used for traditional medicine and how they were administered. She sought a more integrative approach when working with patients.


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

Her research led her to study with a number of Navajo healers to understand the nomenclature and processes associated with plants used for traditional medicine. This work led her to study a plant near and dear to her for other reasons—hops. In addition to being a doctor, Begay co-founded one of Albuquerque’s newest breweries, Bow & Arrow, with her partner Shyla Sheppard and co-investors Mark and Asa Stone. In February the

team opened their doors and their taps with a commitment to a hyperlocal approach to their business and their beer. They seek out local ingredients like blue corn and native hops, they employed local artisans to build the decor, and they serve Pueblo oven bread made by a friend and popcorn prepared by the Popcorn Cannery (just around the corner). Their commitment to place has fueled their venture as much as anything. Since opening, they have done much to engage and build community in their space. Last month they hosted a fundraiser for a Native girls basketball team during the Gathering of Nations, a Dig & Serve pop-up brunch, the Innovate New Mexico student pitch competition, and the first Rio Grande Farmers Coalition farmer social. They also love learning and sharing their passion for craft beer with others. The Bow & Arrow team prioritize appreciation for the beermaking process, ingredients, and history. Most of the Bow & Arrow team have been trained through the Cicerone Program, similar to sommelier training with wine, and love to talk technical about their brews. Starting in April, they initiated Brew Scholars, their craft-beer education series, where they invite patrons to enrich their craft-beer knowledge in an engaging environment, over beer, of course. The initial Brew Scholars convening gave a broad overview of beer types and history. In the second, “Hops in Beer & Traditional Medicine,� Begay presented alongside head brewer, Luke Steadman. During the second Brew Scholars, Begay described how in most western Native American tribes, hops, specifically the variety neomexicanus, has been used in traditional medicine for centuries to address insomnia and anxiety, and as an antiseptic for more acute conditions. She says that in the Navajo tradition, every plant has its own spirit life form. When a plant is taken, the taker offers a small token, and asks permission for the knowledge and medicine the plant provides. Begay also says this idea translates into how they make beer at Bow & Arrow. Each of their beers is thoughtfully crafted from carefully sourced ingredients. Steadman started his career in Pennsylvania as a brewer at Sprague Farm & Brew Works, where he learned his craft from the ground up, literally; Sprague grows much of the grain and hops for their beers. His experiences set high standards for which ingredients pass muster for a Bow & Arrow beer. Deep curiosity about the ingredients of a great beer and a successful brewery, and an unbridled enthusiasm to share this knowledge, sets Bow & Arrow apart. They welcome guests at the next for monthly Brew Scholars, sure to be an insightful conversation.

608 McKnight NW, Albuquerque, 505-247-9800 www.bowandarrowbrewing.com




Episode Two CHEF ROCKY DURHAM VISITS VIVÁC WINERY By Natalie Bovis ∙ Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Top: On the set of Digging In with Jesse Padberg, Natalie Bovis, and Rocky Durham. Bottom right: Jody Durham, Natalie, and Rocky pairing wine. Bottom left: Duck bacon, lettuce, and tomato sandwiches. 22

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Centuries before a wine industry flourished in Napa, Spanish settlers brought grape vines up the Camino Real into New Mexico. The vines thrived in the volcanic, dry, clay-laden soil along the Rio Grande. Lugging wine jugs from Spain for Mass proved more costly and less convenient than making the sacramental juice here. Four centuries later, our local winemaking is undergoing a renaissance.

Playful & quirky Belgian eyewear!

While the uninitiated may scoff at The Land of Enchantment playing in the same field as established Old and New World brands, those in-the-know are aware of the liquid treasures produced in our state. For this episode of Digging In, we invited Rocky Durham, executive chef and co-founder of the Santa Fe Culinary Academy, to meet us at Vivác Winery in Dixon where freshly melted snow adds to the terroir to make wines that rival those from anywhere else. Bold words? Go taste them. You’ll see what I mean.

The Padberg brothers produce Vivác wines without pesticides or chemicals. Some years, late frost creates a lower grape yield, and offerings shift slightly according to Mother Nature’s temperament. During our visit, Chris led us through tastings in the barrel room as sheep meandered outside, and a sleek black barn cat allowed cuddles between takes while we filmed.

3339 Central Avenue, NE, Suite B • Albuquerque, NM 125 Lincoln Avenue, Suite 114 • Santa Fe, NM 505.988.4444 • 505.232.9796 • ojooptique.com • m


Friday, June 24 • 10am-6pm Saturday, June 25 • 10am-9pm Sunday, June 26 • 10am-4pm

Once we wrapped at this idyllic location, the next step, of course, was pairing wine with food. Durham opened his beautiful Tesuque home where an amazingly delicious experiment took place. Any great chef knows a thing or two about complementing and contrasting flavors so we were excited to see what this creative chef ’s mind had in store.

Determining our favorite pairings was not easy! Tune in to see which wines we choose as our favorites paired with the DBLT delights.

Paintings 1: Andrew Shows

Rather than pair four dishes with four wines, Durham made one dish and interchanged Vivác white, rosé, and red wines as well as their fortified (port-style) wine. I hate to give too much away before you see the video…but have you ever tried duck bacon smoked on repurposed French oak wine barrel staves? During the at-home pairing, we tasted how each wine highlighted specific characteristics of the duck bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwiches Durham created for this exercise: toasted brioche, black pepper aioli, red and green heirloom tomatoes, spicy sprouts, garden-picked lettuce, strawberry-rhubarb gastrique and—the piece de resistance—smoked duck breast cured with brown sugar, salt, and Alcalde chile.

2016 FEATURED ARTISTS Jewelry Precious: Turza & Andrew Shows

In an unassuming casita just off the highway to Taos, brothers Chris and Jesse Padberg, raised in Dixon, house their tasting room, the manifestation of their lifelong interest in all kinds of growing. When they decided to focus on grape farming, they studied viticulture intensely, then set up shop. Their love of Old World wine shines through in New World expressions, and out-of-state visitors take advantage of their wine club, enjoying a sip of New Mexico in all parts of the country. Additionally they offer artisanal chocolates and cheese made by the Padberg wives, Liliana and Michele. One-stop decadence!

Exclusively New Mexican Artisans & Craftspeople Over 150 juried exhibitors Keynote Exhibit featuring NM Veterans Art Silent Art Auction • Judge’s Exhibit Artist Demonstrations • Youth Art Exhibit NM Foods & Products Admission $7 adult, kids 12 & under free

Manuel Lujan Building at Expo New Mexico, State Fairgrounds NMACF.ORG • 505.884.9043

Log on to www.ediblesantafe.com now to watch Digging In. 2075 NM-68, Dixon, 505-579-4441 www.vivacwinery.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM



Left: Jim Fish of Anasazi Fields Winery. Right: A few of Anaszi's many fruit wines.

Old Roots, New Wines THE WILDER WINES OF NEW MEXICO By Cameron Weber · Photos by Stephanie Cameron A resounding sense of experimentation greeted Jens Deichman when he arrived to New Mexico’s vineyards in the 1980s. Deichman, the current president of the Middle Rio Grande Chapter of the New Mexico Vine & Wine Society, describes that period as a “second adolescence” for the state’s wine industry. The first wine production boom came in the early twentieth century, but Prohibition drove the wine market underground and devastating floods in the 1930s and 1940s destroyed many of the remaining vineyards. The resurgence of wine production that Deichman witnessed in the 1980s was driven by two


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

major developments. First, new French and French-American hybrid vines displayed much-needed cold hardiness compared with traditional Vitis vinifera vines, and, second, European investors poured funding into large vineyards, speculating that New Mexico wines would soon compete with the well-established California and European industries. Alas, severe weather and root disease again prevented such an unqualified success story for New Mexico’s wine industry. The wine business in New Mexico is growing again, but the growers and vintners who remain face the risks with greater diversity and ingenuity.


2016 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Jaramillo Vineyard 2013 Native Sun 2015 San Francisco International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2009 Reserve Aglianico 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2009 Reserve Aglianico Luna Rossa Winery 2008 Reserve Nebbiolo 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Noisy Water Winery 2013 Wine Maker’s Select Merlot


2015 Denver International Wine Competition Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Sol y Luna 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery Sangria Luna Rossa Winery 2007 Reserve Barbera Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Tempranillo 2015 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Wines of the San Juan Pinot Grigio 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2008 Reserve Nebbiolo Noisy Water Winery Curtain Call Noisy Water Winery Ruidoso Bubbly Ponderosa Valley Vineyards 2011 Sangiovese 2015 Riverside International Wine Competition Heart of the Desert Sweet Gewürztraminer (Chairman’s Award) 2015 Beverage Testing Institute St Clair Winery 2013 Malvasia Bianca


2016 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Barbera Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Franc Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Petit Verdot Gruet Winery Blanc de Blancs Gruet Winery Blanc de Noirs 2015 Denver International Wine Competition Casa Abril Vineyards 2013 Sangiovese Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Malbec Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Zinfandel Casa Abril Vineyards 2014 Tempranillo 2015 TEXSOM International Wine Competition Gruet Winery 2010 Grand Rose 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Chardonnay Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Sangiovese Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Chenin Blanc

2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Black Mesa Winery 2012 Malbec Black Mesa Winery 2012 Merlot Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Chambourcin La Chiripada Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon La Chiripada Winery 2012 Petite Sirah La Chiripada Winery 2014 Viognier Luna Rossa Winery 2013 Moscato Luna Rossa Winery 2009 Reserve Aglianico Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Tempranillo Noisy Water Winery Bella Rosa Noisy Water Winery 2013 Black Muscat Noisy Water Winery Divine Intervention Ponderosa Valley Vineyards 2013 Chardonnay Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Beverage Testing Institute St Clair Winery 2014 DH Lescombes Sauvignon Blanc St Clair Winery 2014 Gewürztraminer St Clair Winery 2014 Pinot Grigio St Clair Winery 2013 Riesling


2016 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Gruet Winery Brut Rose 2015 TEXSOM International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition Wines of the San Juan Dry Blue Winged Olive Wines of the San Juan 2011 Serendipity Merlot Wines of the San Juan Chardonnay Wines of the San Juan 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition Luna Rossa Winery 2013 Malbec Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Dry Riesling Luna Rossa Winery 2014 Pinot Grigio 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition Black’s Smuggler Winery 2013 Baco Noir Black’s Smuggler Winery Sandia Rose Camino Real Winery 2014 Chardonnay Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Franc Jaramillo Vineyards 2013 Tempranillo La Chiripada Winery 2012 Dolcetto La Chiripada Winery 2014 Riesling Luna Rossa Winery 2007 Reserve Barbera Luna Rossa Winery 2012 Sangiovese Noisy Water Winery 2013 Reserve Chardonnay Noisy Water Winery 2012 Dolcetto Noisy Water Winery El Cabron Viejo Noisy Water Winery La Vida Dulce Noisy Water Winery Moscato Noisy Water Winery Relleno Brothers Malvasia Bianca Noisy Water Winery 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Noisy Water Winery 2013 Riesling Noisy Water Winery Tighty Whitey Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery Sangiovese




Apricots aged using Old World fermentation create a dry and complex wine.

Even the amateurs growing fifteen, ten, or even just two acres and selling grapes to winemakers or wineries, Deichman says, have economic benefits to New Mexico and should be counted as part of the state’s growing wine industry. As the owner of a homebrewing and winemaking supply shop, Deichman is host to locals who want to push the limits of the craft. “I get everyone from the novice who’s excited to begin to the Northern New Mexico person whose family has actually been doing this for generations—and not just grapes but with chokecherry and plum—to the Sandia Lab person who follows strict technique. And everyone has a good time with it!” Traditional fruit wines made from stone fruits, such as chokecherry, plum, and apricot, reflect an adaptation by early colonists to cold climates. These trees will yield where grapes cannot, and yield in quantities that make fresh consumption of the fruit impossible—rotten fruit is a sorely missed opportunity. A handful of New Mexico winemakers, such as Jim Fish of Anasazi Fields Winery in Placitas, continue this wilder tradition of winemaking. Fish, who began as a laboratory chemist, refutes excessive control of the fermentation process. He has been selling wines made with fruits other than grapes for twentyone years. Like another refined craft of a rural corner of America, Appalachian moonshine, fine fruit wines are just coming to light in commercial markets. “We are certainly different, both in the wines we make and how we make it,” says Fish. The fruit used for Anasazi Fields’ fruit wines are mostly from unsprayed trees near Placitas. A whole-fruit fermentation at cool temperatures allows for a prolonged primary fermentation, when the fruit sugars are converted to alcohol by yeast. “Because of that really long fermentation, we get complex acids, much bigger organic molecules that don’t tend to evaporate, so the wine is com26

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plex, very stable, and totally different from what you’re used to.” Fruit wines are typically made to be very sweet, but Anasazi Fields uses the Old World method of fermenting the wine until it is dry, which leads to a complexity, but also a sharpness, that is softened by aging the wines for years. “We have a 1996 peach wine that we just released this year that sat on oak in a stainless steel tank for nineteen years.” I quietly wonder if Jim Fish’s wines will become a marker of New Mexico pushing the limits of what is possible in commercial winemaking, and I simultaneously worry that these techniques might be lost. “We are rustic. We just try to let people experience the landscape in the wine,” he adds, along with an invitation for people to bring a picnic to the winery to pair the wine with food. The image reinforces a hope I hold for New Mexico’s future: that the patchwork of success in New Mexico’s wine industry includes the close, place-based knowledge of small wineries and vineyards, and that their success works to protect our land and water resources. Anasazi Fields Winery, 26 Cam De Los Pueblitos, Placitas 505-867-3062, www.anasazifieldswinery.com Victor's Home Brew, 2436 San Mateo Place NE, Albuquerque 505-883-0000, www.victorshomebrew.com www.nmwine.org





NE 22-25, 20 JU 1














TRADE By Stephanie Cameron

OSUNA NURSERY 501 Osuna NE, Albuquerque 505-345-6644 www.osunanursery.com

Having served New Mexico for thirty-seven years, Osuna Nursery is a family-owned garden center. In 1980, Chang An, an immigrant from Korea, bought a half-acre lot in the North Valley and began selling houseplants and providing plant-care services. After Chang passed away in 2009, his wife Myong took over the business. Today, the nursery is owned by Myong and managed by Myong’s nephew Jason Seo. Together they have carried on the legacy of Chang’s passion for plants and now have six acres filled with native and non-native trees, shrubs, vegetables, and twenty-five hundred roses, along with fountains, pottery, and a tropical greenhouse. They have expanded their business to make Osuna “a one-stop shopping experience.” Seo explains, “We offer delivery, planting, landscaping, plant maintenance, a full-service plant pharmacy, and an educational program called Osuna University.” Osuna’s commitment to keeping plants healthy until they find a home differentiates the nursery from big box stores, which often do not invest in the labor to ensure a plant’s health from arrival to departure. Osuna has a growing yard where “Osuna Grown” perennials and herbs are brought to life the Osuna way. The nursery invests much energy in educating customers on proper landscaping and maintenance, including offering Osuna University to their customers free on Saturdays in the spring and fall. Customers can even bring a plant sample to the staff and they can help diagnose the botanical problem. In the winter, Osuna University extends to the employees, ensuring continued education of their staff. Whether an experienced gardener undertaking a large landscaped garden or a novice wanting to know which soil is best for your container garden, Osuna’s friendly, knowledgeable staff will help you with all your needs.

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Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Test Kit Understanding the health of your soil will help you determine the most economical and efficient method for making improvements to your soil. Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and proper pH are the essential nutritional building blocks for all plants. In order to optimize your plant's health, these minerals need to be balanced in your soil. $25

FlexRake Trenching Shovel Modeled after hard-to-find antiques from a time when tools were painstakingly crafted by hand, this classic features quality craftsmanship and details like a beautiful oak handle and durable carbon steel blade. $22


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

FoxFarm Happy Frog Potting Soil Happy Frog is pH-adjusted for optimum results and contains beneficial microbes, making it ideal for container plantings. $13

FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil Ocean Forest is a powerhouse blend of premium earthworm castings, bat guano, and sea-going fish and crab meal. $20

Corona Convertible Pruner/Lopper This easily converts from hand pruner to lopper for two-handed operation. $45

The Felco Pruner

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Dramm Oscillating, Whirling, and Turret Sprinklers Dramm produces products that save time and energy while providing quality products that will last a lifetime. $30 - $60

Yum Yum Mix 2-1-1 Organic all-purpose fertilizer and soil conditioner, Yum Yum Mix improves soil tilth, moisture retention, plant vigor, and stress resistance. Used regularly, it helps create a balanced pH and a naturally fertile soil that's perfect for growing all annuals, perennials, vegetables, lawns, trees and shrubs. $20










Tom Delehanty's chicken appeared on the first cover of edible Santa Fe in June 2006.

Disruption EDIBLE SANTA FE TURNS TEN YEARS OLD By Kate Manchester · Photo by Carole Topalin Ten years ago I left behind a home, a community, and a career I’d inhabited for nearly twenty-three years. I knew I wanted to do something else with my life, something that gave back in a bigger way, but really had no idea what that meant. Arriving in Santa Fe on a cold January day in 2006, I felt alive with the possibility of the new and unknown. In February 2006 I joined the small community of edible publishers; I think I may have been the thirteenth member of this small, passionate group. We had a big mission: to transform the way consumers shopped for, cooked, ate, and related to local food in communities all over America. Several months later I launched the first issue of edible 30

edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

Santa Fe with the intention of getting more people into this burgeoning conversation and movement around local food. In those ten years since publishing the first issue of edible Santa Fe, both media and the world have changed dramatically. In 2006, static websites were the norm for a small business like mine, and social media had yet to explode and expose the tiniest details of our daily lives. I’m still conflicted about social media for a number of reasons, but nevertheless it’s been a great amplifier for causes that would have heretofore gone unnoticed by millions of people. Without social media as a megaphone for organizations like Just Label It and

edible_final_art_3635_smaller.qxp_Layout 1 9/17/15 11:54 AM Page 1

The explosion of information at our fingertips has given us access to lists, reviews, ratings, and the physical and social costs of everything we consume, from news to food. What used to take hours, if not days, of research is now available in seconds via your telephone. Edible Communities now has more than ninety community publishers all over North America who still share the same collective passion for changing the way people eat and think about food. They no longer just print magazines. Rather, they are media businesses with digital editions, lively websites, and active social media communities. Most publishers are deeply involved in giving back to their communities; in addition to print and digital media, many have signature events that educate and entertain—cooking classes, lectures, community gardens, and Eat Local Weeks—all built around enriching their communities through the lens of local food. With print alone, edible publishers reach more than 1.4 million readers collectively, and legions more through the long tail of digital and social media. Technology has radically changed the world we live in—yet other things remain wonderfully constant. I’m thankful that ten years later I’m still connected to the wonderful entrepreneurs of Edible Communities who have built thriving businesses around making a difference in their home towns and cities. Finding an hour in a busy day to pick up one of the eighty or so edible magazines that travel via good old snail mail to my mailbox, I am transported. Holding these beautiful magazines, reading about real people in Vancouver or Cincinnati who come together to grow a garden for their kids, protect a threatened crop, or to teach each other to cook never fails to cut through the noise. The simple act of picking up a magazine and getting lost in a story reminds me that it actually feels good to turn off the noise. It reminds me that it’s OK to stop, put on my gloves and head out to the garden, take a break to quietly chop some vegetables, and stir a pot of soup, or head outside to meet a friend for a walk. I’m full of gratitude for the path I set upon the day I left New York for New Mexico, for the local and larger community I became a part of thanks to edible. More than anything, I’m thrilled that it is is still living, breathing, thriving. And that picking up a magazine can still disrupt my world in the most wonderful way. Publisher's note: Stephanie and Walt Cameron partnered with Kate Manchester in late 2011 to learn the ropes of publishing. In September 2012 when Manchester moved to Pennsylvania, the Camerons took over as publishers and owners of edible Santa Fe.

the grove

cafe market


the Non-GMO Project educating millions, would General Mills, ConAgra, and Kellogg be introducing new labeling that identifies products containing GMOs? Food hubs and farmers all over the country rely on digital and social platforms to connect with and sell to schools, hospitals, grocers, and restaurants—markets that they could not easily reach or supply all on their own. Ten years ago one would have been hard pressed to find a farmer with a cell phone, but according to AgWeb, eighty-seven percent of farmers will own a smartphone in 2016.


Bring The Grove to your next social or corporate gathering. Options range from classic antipasto platters and custom hors d’ oeuvres to fresh salads, boxed lunches, house english muffins and our signature sweets by the dozen.



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600 Central Avenue SE, just west of I-25 in Albuquerque

Ayurveda Education • Cooking Classes Nutritional Consultation • Panchakarma Treatments

naturally better

1622 St. Michaels Drive, Santa Fe, 87505 AgniAyurveda.com • 505.438.1163 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM



edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016


All Salads, All the Time AND AN INTERVIEW WITH DR. LORI EANES By Sarah Wentzel-Fisher ∙ Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Golden beets and sprouted lentils




Sprouted lentils and golden beet salad, recipe on page 36.

For each issue of edible, we test every recipe to make sure it will work in your home kitchen. Not only does this mean we present you with quality, easy-to-make dishes, it also means our team spends a really enjoyable day in the kitchen together doing what we love best, cooking. During this test kitchen, we invited special guest Dr. Lori Eanes to join us to talk about food as medicine and her upcoming seminars at Sunrise Springs (see page 46). We met Eanes during one 34

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of our KASA 2 Morning Show visits, and instantly hit it off as fellow food-lovers. Over a lunch which included all of the following salads, we discussed ideas of preventive medicine through dietary and behavioural changes. Eanes’ motto is “more healing, less medicine”; the best treatment for disease and chronic conditions is to avoid them in the first place through better self care. She also promotes integrative medicine, which treats mind, body, and spirit by combining conventional

western medicine with alternative or complementary treatments, such as herbal medicine, acupuncture, massage, and stress reduction techniques. She believes that many practitioners are experts in disease, but not in disease prevention. Eanes currently splits her time between freelancing in urgent care facilities in Albuquerque and developing an out-of-the-box practice that focuses on teaching prevention and self-advocacy through workshops and seminars. Much of what she teaches focuses on the power of food for health. In her workshop series, she helps attendees develop a toolkit for empowered navigation of healthcare. For example, she attempts to clarify how western medicine works. Over our salads, she explained that doctors are required to follow something called the standard of care, which often narrows the scope of what a practitioner will consider as treatment options. She has simple recommendations for engaging a doctor for a more nuanced diagnosis and treatment: asking the doctor questions like, “Would you take this medication?” or, “Would you recommend these tests to someone in your family?” As an urgent care doctor, Eanes often sees patients when they are experiencing intense stress, but she recognizes how much stress people carry in general. She believes the biggest factors for change in health, for good or bad, are diet and behavior, and both are related to stress. Behavior change is hard, and often causes stress. According to the American Psychological Association annual report “Stress in America,” two out of five people report overeating or eating unhealthy food as a way to cope with stress. In essence, breaking a cycle of bad habits associated with bad food can be very hard without support and serious intention. “Keep it simple,” Eanes says, referring to how we live in a culture of increasing distraction. She advocates mindful eating and simple foods as a way to help build consumption awareness. “Our sympathetic nervous systems are overloaded,” she reflects. “We are so distracted by media and technology, it's easy to lose track of our inner compass.” For her, health is also about self-awareness and mindfulness, particularly when it comes to food. During her workshops, she also conducts exercises in mindful eating, asking participants to consider taste, texture, aroma, and to slow down and take time to chew each bite. According to the website RxList, the third most prescribed drug in the US is Nexium, a heartburn relief medication, and, according to Eanes, this has everything to do with the food choices people make and the way they eat. Finally, Eanes says, if a person wants to change, he or she must have goals. If you’re ready for some serious reflection about getting healthy, changing your eating habits, and possibly appreciating food more, consider joining Eanes for her workshop “Do as the Doctor Does” at Sunrise Springs on June 24. You’ll find engaging presentations, healing treatments, simple stress management techniques, fitness activities, and spa cuisine. Then, when you get home, these salads can inspire meals that help you work toward your goals and a renewed, healthier you. WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM



Grilled vegetable and quinoa salad.

SPROUTED LENTILS AND GOLDEN BEET SALAD Serves 6 1/2 cup green lentils, sprouted 4 small beets, roughly chopped 1 head radicchio, roughly chopped 1 handful basil and tarragon, chopped 1 tablespoon olive oil Juice of 1 lemon 1/4 cup capers 36

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2 shallots, minced 2 tablespoons whole grain mustard 1 tablespoon honey Salt and pepper Start the sprouting process 2 - 4 days before making this salad. In a clean 1-quart canning jar, add 1/2 cup lentils and enough water to fill half the jar. Let sit overnight uncovered. Drain water and rinse lentils, leaving them in the jar. Cover the jar with a piece of cheesecloth, holding it in place with

a lid ring or a rubber band. Lay the jar on its side on the counter, shaking the lentils to distribute them evenly. Once in the morning and once in the evening until ready to use, rinse the lentils. Sprouts will continue to grow for several weeks if well rinsed. To slow growth, put a sealed lid on the jar and refrigerate—they should keep for up to a week.

Your table awaits...

Preheat oven to 400° F. In a large roasting pan, spread the beets evenly and coat lightly with olive oil. Cook for about 15 minutes in oven, or until soft. Remove beets from pan and cool. To make the vinaigrette, whisk together olive oil, lemon, capers, shallots, mustard, honey, half the fresh herbs, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Set aside. Dress sprouted lentils and beets with vinaigrette, sprinkle with remaining herbs and radicchio, and stir to incorporate. Season with salt and pepper to taste. This salad is delicious served immediately, and it tastes even better the next day after flavors have fully melded.

GRILLED VEGETABLE AND QUINOA SALAD Serves 4 Salad 1 zucchini 1 yellow summer squash 1 red bell pepper 1 small eggplant 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup quinoa, cooked 2 cups baby spinach 1/3 cup goat cheese, crumbled 1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, minced Pumpkin seeds Salt and pepper Dressing 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar Salt and pepper


A Santa Fe tradition for 50 years! Reservations: 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com photo: Kitty Leaken

Slice the zucchini, yellow squash, eggplant, and red bell pepper into 1/2-inch slices, then toss in the olive oil, salt, and pepper. Place on grill at medium heat for 20 minutes, flipping once halfway through (if the vegetables are not cooked after 20 minutes, allow them to cook for another 5 minutes; if they are finished earlier, remove them from the grill). Cool veggies and cut into bite-size pieces. Mix the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Combine the quinoa, spinach, and grilled vegetables in a large bowl. Toss the dressing into the salad. Top each serving with pumpkin seeds, cheese, and cilantro. Prepared salad can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days; add crumbled cheese and cilantro just before serving.

Crepes • Tortas • Handmade Pies 3222 Silver Avenue SE, Albuquerque 505.266.0607 • freshcitrus.us




Left: Arugula fennel salad. Right: Super summer salad.

ARUGULA FENNEL SALAD WITH CREAMY LEMON DRESSING Serves 2 Arugula Fennel Salad 2 cups arugula 1/2 cup fennel, thinly sliced 1/2 cup apple, sliced 1/2 cup sunflower sprouts Creamy Lemon Dressing Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon tahini 1 tablespoons maple syrup 1/4 cup olive oil Salt Whisk together all dressing ingredients except olive oil. Slowly whisk in oil. Combine the salad ingredients in a large bowl, then toss with dressing. Serve with extra sprouts, a sprig of fennel greens, and an apple slice.

SUPER SUMMER SALAD Serves 4 - 6 1/2 cup uncooked farro 1 1/2 cups water 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 large bunch kale, destemmed and chopped 38

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1 cup pitted cherries, halved 1/4 cup red onion, finely chopped 1/2 cup pecan halves, toasted and roughly chopped Salt In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine farro and water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, then simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the water is absorbed and the farro is tender, about 25 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Pour over warm farro, then toss to coat. Add kale, cherries, and red onions. Toss to combine. Sprinkle pecans over the top. If time permits, place in the refrigerator for 20 minutes to allow the kale to tenderize. Leftover salad will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES TWO WAYS FRESH PEACH-BASIL VINAIGRETTE Serves 4 1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar 1 garlic clove, minced 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1/8 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 large peach, chopped 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh basil, roughly chopped 2 heirloom tomatoes, sliced

Whisk together first 5 ingredients until sugar is dissolved. Whisk in olive oil. Stir in chopped peach and basil. Place sliced tomatoes on bed of greens and pour peach-basil vinaigrette over them.

LOCAL HERO: Best Restaurant Santa Fe We are so happy to be a part of the community!

TOMATO SALAD WITH GRANITA Serves 4 - 6 Granita 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 large heirloom tomato, seeded and peeled 2 tablespoons basil, chopped Salad 4 assorted heirloom tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices (about 2 pounds) Handful of basil leaves Salt and pepper To prepare granita, place vinegar, oil, salt, basil, and tomato in a blender or food processor; process until smooth. Place tomato mixture in an 8-inch square baking dish; cover and freeze until firm, stirring twice during first 2 hours. Remove mixture from freezer; scrape entire mixture with a fork until fluffy. To prepare salad, arrange tomato slices on a platter. Sprinkle tomatoes with salt and pepper. Top with granita. Garnish with basil.

MELON, BERRY, AND FETA SALAD Serves 4 - 6 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 small shallot, thinly sliced Zest of 1/2 lemon 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper Salt and pepper 1/2 green melon (about 1 1/4 pounds)—halved, cut into wedges, peeled, and thinly sliced 1/2 orange or yellow melon (about 1 1/4 pounds)— halved, cut into wedges, peeled, and thinly sliced 1 cup blackberries (or other seasonal berries) 2 ounces feta cheese, cut into thin slices 2 tablespoons snipped chives In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, shallot, lemon zest, and crushed red pepper. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the melon slices and blackberries on a platter. Drizzle the dressing over the fruit. Garnish with the feta and snipped chives and serve.

SANTA FE 321 W. San Francisco 986-8700

ALBUQUERQUE 3403 Central NE 10701 Corrales Rd. NW 11225 Montgomery NE 266-7855 899-7500 271-0882 WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM



Top: Melon, berry, and feta salad. Bottom: Heirloom tomatoes two ways. 40

edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

5415 Academy NE • 505.835.0860 • nantucketshoalsseafoodmarket.com


Sprouted mung beans and herbs.

SPROUTED MUNG BEANS AND HERBS Serves 4 – 6 Salad 1 cup sprouted mung beans 2 large carrots, grated 1/4 cup fresh basil (or any fresh herbs), chopped Sesame seeds Dressing 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 1 tablespoon tamari 1 clove garlic, finely grated 2 tablespoons olive oil Start the sprouting process 2 - 4 days before making this salad. In a clean 1-quart canning jar, add 1 cup mung beans

and enough water to fill 2/3 of the jar. Let sit overnight uncovered. Drain water and rinse beans, leaving them in the jar. Cover the jar with a piece of cheesecloth, holding it in place with a lid ring or a rubber band. Lay the jar on its side on the counter, shaking the beans to distribute them evenly. Once in the morning and once in the evening until ready to use, rinse the beans. Sprouts will continue to grow for several weeks if well rinsed. To slow growth, put a sealed lid on the jar and refrigerate—they should keep for up to a week. In a small bowl, whisk together all dressing ingredients. Combine veggies in a bowl, and toss with dressing. Serve topped with sesame seeds and fresh basil.

Enjoy an aaernoon cocktail during our daily Happy Hour from 3-6pm

Savor our menu as the Southwest region’s avors, locally grown produce and traditions converge into contemporary high desert cuisine Visit redsage-sf.com for the full menu For reservations call 505.819.2056

Santa Fe Water Conservation Office

Rebate Program 2016 CHANGES NOW IN EFFECT

Saving Water Saves YOU MONEY www.savewatersantafe.com/rebates

Take advantage of a variety of rebates offered by the City of Santa Fe. Save money when you conserve water by replacing high water use fixtures and appliances with efficient technologies. Rebates are also available for rain water harvesting devices such as rainbarrels and cisterns. Save Water Santa Fe

Saving Water is Always in Season Santa Fe Water Conservation Office (505) 955-4225 • www.savewatersantafe.com


Guests meditating on the deck of the cold springs. Photo courtesy of Sunrise Springs.

Spa Hopping



he International Spa Association (ISA) defines spas as “places devoted to enhancing overall well-being through a variety of professional services that encourage the renewal of mind, body and spirit.” But no one is regulating use of the word spa. That's why some salons promote spa services when all they have is a massage table, or use names like “spa pedicure.” The word spa seems misleading when you see it everywhere: office buildings, strip malls, and storefronts. New Mexico is home to several different types of spas. They include a handful of destination spas dedicated to healthy living, resort spas where the spa is an amenity in a larger facility, and day spas offering drop-in for treatments like massage, facials, and body wraps. 44

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For this wellness issue, I chose spas that had overnight options and outstanding cuisine, for wellness inside and out. Going back to the ISA’s definition of a spa, I researched places in New Mexico that allowed me to unplug for more than a few hours and focused on wellness. Especially with the abundance of beautiful spaces, hot springs, mineral waters, and training facilities for licensed therapists, our state has much for the spa-goer. Each of these three destinations offers a different type of experience and services, but all share the ability to truly unplug, relax, and reboot. These unique water oases in our desert land provide ways to enjoy and interact with nature by taking time to stop, look, and listen.

Where The Lo cals Go for Good.







A cozy place to discover unique wines + quality craft beer + hand-picked artisanal cheese & charcuterie + locally roasted coffee. Come in and explore the things that excite us while you taste + shop + unwind

www.parcht.com 103 EAST PLAZA TAOS, NEW MEXICO (575)758-1994


warm bread + olive oil tasting spicy caramelized pecan bacon house-made red wine vinegar + sea salt chips marcona, pistachios + smoked almonds warmed citrus + rosemary olives pear + blue cheese + honey burrata + kale pesto + warm bread smoked kielbasa + lusty monk mustard + sauerkraut chilled Castelvetrano olives balsamic marinated beets + lavender goat cheese NM feta, lemon & rosemary spread + smoked trout kale + lemon vinaigrette + shaved pecorino


see chalkboards for available cheeses + charcuterie …with crostini + Lusty Munk Mustard + cornichons cheese pick 3 or 5 charcuterie pick 3 or 5 build your own board pick 4 or 6


house-made peanut butter cup iconik coffee infused truffles tea-O-graphy truffle trio *fall fig + ginger spice + lady grey


Top: Medicine Wheel and grounds at Sunrise Springs. Middle left: Silkie chicken in its coop. Bottom left: Casita interior with modern appointments. Bottom right: Bridge crossing cold springs. Photos courtesy of Sunrise Springs. 46

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SUNRISE SPRINGS RESORT I found serenity at Sunrise Springs Resort in Santa Fe this past April. Budding trees made dramatic shapes and curves against a large spring-fed pond. Reflected on the water, puffy clouds floated by as fish sent them rippling to the edges of the pool. The newly reimagined property begged contemplation among the cottonwoods. I arrived mid-day and planned to spend the next twenty-eight hours absorbing as much as I could from this striking place. My first stop was lunch at the Blue Heron Restaurant that sits atop the property with a spectacular view of the grounds below. As I perused the menu for lunch, I made a conscious decision to eat clean, healthy food during my stay. For me, this meant a plant-based diet, and the choices on chef Paul Novak’s menu made it easy. Sourcing local and seasonal vegetables, many of his offerings focus on the flavor of individual vegetables, presented in compliment to each other. While I lunched with Wendi Gelfound, the marketing director, she talked about how the many experiences of Sunrise Springs thread together. The resort offers integrated experiences (eating, meditation, exercise, relaxation) to create harmony between the mental, physical, emotional, and spiritual aspects of well-being. In the moment, I was not sure I fully understood her meaning, but by the end of my stay, I got it. After a scrumptious lunch of gingered sweet potatoes, baby bok choy, and Vietnamese spring rolls, I relaxed in my room with a cup of hot tea before heading to the Integrative Spa for my ancient echoes massage. This unique therapy draws upon the ancient and natural healing system of Ayurveda using East Indian head massage techniques. The rhythmic strokes on the forehead cleanse and begin to dispel the tension that comes with the stresses of life. Sunrise Springs offers a menu of services from bodywork and therapeutic massage to energy healing and skin care. They use both Eastern and Western therapeutic practices, offering many wellness services, including spiritual counseling, nutritional assessment, and behavioral health care with their team of credentialed medical doctors, licensed counselors, integrative care specialists, massage therapists, and experiential guides. Sunrise Springs sits on seventy acres with twenty casitas, thirtytwo additional guest rooms, a spring-fed pond, greenhouse, raised garden beds, a culinary classroom, two restaurants, yoga and fitness studios, a swimming pool and hot tub, a puppy studio, a chicken coop, an arts studio, a sweat house, and twenty acres of gardens and walking trails in addition to the fifty acres of undeveloped land that is open for exploration. Towering cottonwood trees surround the carefully restored grounds. With mindfulness towards guests’ wellness, alcohol is not served with meals at the restaurant, but one can enjoy a glass of wine or beer prior to dinner at the Moon House which sits just above the pond. At dinner, back in the Blue Heron, I enjoyed conversation with two other guests, and ate sautéed wild mushrooms, grilled WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM



Top left: Cedar plank salmon served with sticky rice and bok choy. Top right: Sunrise Spring's greenhouse interior. Middle right: Blue Heron Restaurant. Bottom: Looking over the spring-fed pond on a crisp April morning. Photos by Stephanie Cameron. 48

edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

polenta, and potato and butternut squash gratin. My dinner companions had both been at the resort for a couple of days, having come for very different reasons, and had experienced many levels of healing during their stay. After dinner the three of us walked to the puppy studio to visit with the Labrador retrievers being raised and trained by Assistance Dogs of the West—these interactions are beneficial to the humans and the dogs. The next morning, breakfast was served in the Sages Café, a dining space that reflects the warmth of the natural landscape and includes a koi pond which flows from inside the Sages to the outdoor fountain and patio. The menu offered diverse breakfast options—cold-pressed juices, yogurt, and fruit, or avocado eggs benedict. After breakfast, I headed to my experiential session with lead counselor Michael Schroeder at the Medicine Wheel, a beautifully landscaped space designed for personal exploration and introspection. For me, this was the moment I truly understood the concept of integrative wellness; mind, body, and spirit. Medicine wheels have many meanings across many cultures, but for all they represent the interconnectedness and balance between mental, emotional, spiritual, and physical aspects of well-being. Schroeder led me through the blueprint of the Medicine Wheel which I related to my past, present, and future life.

It’s Rosé season and we have the largest selection in town!

Following this journey, I took in another animal experiential activity and hung out in the chicken coop with Danielle Simmons who is in charge of horticulture and animal interactions at Sunrise. She manages a couple dozen Silkie chickens and provides interaction for guests to gain insight into their own and others’ behaviors, roles, and communication styles. I took this opportunity to talk at length with Simmons about having my own chickens and got some great tips on starting my own coop. Simmons plants and manages the greenhouse and the garden beds at Sunrise and plans to put in a chef ’s garden for the restaurants on the property. She also enjoys teaching guests the many uses of herbs from first aid to making herbal teas and salves. In the cooking studio, I learned how to make my own lip balm from herbs and beeswax.

1005 S. St. Francis, Suite 101 | 505-984-1582 Monday - Saturday 10am - 8pm

Sunrise Springs Resort offers packages with grand opening rates available if booked by July 31 for visits through December 31. They include Sunrise Day Escapes with food, experiential activities, and additional add-on spa services, starting at $199 per person. Half-day and multi-day packages are also available.

photo by Jeff Spicer

All of my time at Sunrise Springs informed an integrated wellness experience, as Gelfound had explained the day before. Sunrise Springs left me refreshed and re-energized. I took away practices that I can apply to my everyday life to help me thrive and experience life newly.

on the High Road to Taos Open Daily 10-5 Closed Tuesdays

242 Los Pinos, Santa Fe, 877-977-8212 www.sunrisesprings.com clay . glass . paintings . jewelry






The grounds at CaĂąon del Rio are surrounded by Virgin Mesa and Cat Mesa in the Jemez. Photos by Stephanie Cameron. 50

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CAÑON DEL RIO Nestled between Cat Mesa and Virgin Mesa, the natural beauty of the Jemez Mountains envelops us from the moment we arrive. Sporadic rain showers have painted the red earth a deeper crimson; the smell of wet grass and flowers invigorates us as we approach the doors of Cañon del Rio and enter a spacious room with adobe walls, vigas, and tile floors. Our hostess, Dagna Altheide, greets us and commences the tour of the impressive property. Dagna treats her guests like family and loves meeting people. She joyfully says, “I get to pick the brains of the most interesting people in the world. That’s my favorite part about what I do.” The fabulous reviews on Trip Advisor, especially for the special package advertised on their website—a “One Night Getaway,” drew me to Cañon del Rio. “Enjoy a one-hour couples massage, a peaceful evening, and a fantastic breakfast. This is the one night romance package you’ve been waiting for,” they say. How could I resist? It had been too long since my husband and I had gone away for the weekend and the Jemez, just an hour from Albuquerque or Santa Fe, has always been one of my favorite places in New Mexico. After touring the property, we saunter off to our rooms to get robed for our massage. The large airy room with high ceilings and many windows makes it feel as if we are outdoors. I slip into deep relaxation as my therapist goes to work on all the knots in my muscles. It feels good to relax next to my partner in life and work, letting all our cares melt away. Proceeding our massage, we sit in the sauna for the ultimate detoxification as our pores open and sweat. At this point, I am either ready for a deep nap or to satiate my hunger with some comfort food. We opt for the latter and make our way down the road to the only place open in town at 7pm, Los Ojos Restaurant and Saloon, a funky roadhouse that fits the bill for comfort food and a craft beer. I order the Los Ojos Special, an open-faced burger smothered in red chile, and a Marble Double White. I find myself responding very differently from my relaxing retreat at Sunrise Springs a week earlier. This time nature, my massage treatment, and quality time with my significant other have worked up a healthy appetite in me. When we return to the property after dinner, we are more than ready to slip into the hot tub. We join the other couple staying the night for conversation in what Dagna calls the “stargazer hot tub,” but tonight there are no stars, only clouds and twinkle lights in the tree. With rain sprinkling on and off while we soak and the sound of the river below, it is truly a magnificent way to spend the rest of the evening. Back in our room, we fall into deep slumber cushioned by rain that falls outside our open screen door. Clanging in the kitchen wakens us the next morning. Having slept in, we appreciate that breakfast is served at 9am, not the crack of dawn. Dagna and her helper, Danielle, busily prepare a huge meal for us while we sip coffee and listen to jazz. Unlike the quiet spa music played the rest of the day, jazz is the genre of choice for breakfast. Dagna says, “It puts a smile on our faces and makes sure we greet the day enlivened.” First they serve a bowl of yogurt and fruit, followed by the spread—potatoes with cumin and turmeric, WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM



Top left: Fresh fruit and yogurt. Top right: Eggs with spinach in tortilla cups. Middle right: View of Cat Mesa from the grounds. Bottom: Back archway that enters the courtyard. The great room and all guestrooms have private courtyard access. Photos by Stephanie Cameron. 52

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eggs with spinach in a tortilla cup, bacon, and fresh-baked scones. Dagna serves all meats on the side, always offers a gluten-free option and a vegetarian option, and happily converts any offering to a vegan option. Dagna likes to cook by feel, smell, and taste. She isn’t a big fan of recipes because she never agrees with the measurements. Inspired by the ingredients in a dish, she cooks from the heart. Fruit trees and vegetable gardens grow throughout the property, and she incorporates their bounty into her cooking. She loves supporting the local farmers, but doesn’t have time to go to the market, so farmers know they can bring their unsold goods to Dagna and she will buy them all. “And if I can’t get my ingredients locally, I try to source the cleanest food possible.” After breakfast, Dagna tells us about the property and the village of Jemez Springs. She and her husband, John Altheide, bought what was the prior structure in 2001. An apt craftsman, John converted the space into a B&B. As regular spa goers themselves, they wanted to create an experience at Cañon del Rio on a par with others around the state. In 2006, John imagined and constructed the spa area, swimming pool, and hot tub. At first, it was a challenge to run a spa, and they learned it’s not easy to find spa professionals in a tiny village. They didn’t want their guests to have a “fluff and buff experience”; they wanted highly trained professionals who could offer healing services. They now boast a strong team of six skilled and experienced therapists dedicated to the healing arts. John built the spa to be lofty and airy for the feeling of the outdoors. When I ask Dagna how she would describe her spa, she said, “It’s not fancy, and it’s not supposed to be, because we want it to be more about the undoing than the doing. We want you to untether from the commercial aspects of a spa. No TVs, no phones, it’s detoxing from technology. Having a simple vision gives you a bigger reward.” Art by local artists and Native American crafts people fills the property. Represented are Dagna’s father, Ed Samuels, and her mother, Linda Vi Vona. The walls also showcase lovely paintings by her daughters, Hazel and Jade. Samuels’ painting liken to Emily Carr and add a striking touch to the adobe walls throughout the property. The tile floors have radiant heat, and Southwestern flair adorns each of the five guest rooms. John’s handy work is apparent in every detail. Before departing, we stroll the sprawling six acres along the Jemez River. The inviting bosque offers private moments on trailside with benches and chairs cleverly set among the trees and grass. I notice that all the trails have lighting and recall Dagna saying one could safely venture off to the river in the early evening. What a special place, I think as I gaze on the red mesa, sparkling from pockets of light let loose from the clouds. The small town of Jemez Springs, full of character and charm, makes Cañon del Rio a special place to lose your thoughts and detach from the rest of the world. Rooms start at $129 a night and day spa services start at $39. They offer a day pass for use of sauna, hot-tub spa, and river grounds with any spa treatment (per person). Cañon del Rio also offers property take-over for yoga, writers, and artists retreats that include catered breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 16445 Highway 4, Jemez Springs, 575-829-4377 www.canondelrio.com WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM



Top: Grounds at El Monte Sagrado with water supplied by The Living Machine. Photos courtesy of El Monte Sagrado. Middle left: Cinnamon baked apple roses. Bottom Left: Veggie benedict with tofu and oyster mushrooms. Photos by Stephanie Cameron. Bottom right: spa therapy rooom. Photo courtesy of El Monte Sagrado. 54

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EL MONTE SAGRADO LIVING RESORT & SPA In the shadows of the Sangre de Cristos stands El Monte Sagrado, which means “The Holy Mountain.” Sagrado also means sanctuary. Lush landscapes and soothing waters flow outdoors and indoors across the ten-acre property. No expense was spared when the resort was built sixteen years ago. The Living Machine© and biolariums, built by Tom Worrell, create a year-round oasis and tropical ecosystem smack dab in the middle of the high desert. A biolarium is a space defined by bringing the outdoors indoors. The Living Machine is part of a black/grey water reclamation project. All water from the showers, baths, and laundry are reclaimed and used in water features throughout the property. At the El Monte Sagrado spa, guests can rinse away the tensions of the day in a blissful soak in a salt water pool surrounded by waterfalls, plants, and flowers in the biolarium. The spa also has a steam room, sauna, and fitness center. One needn’t be a guest of the resort to enjoy these amenities. A spa appointment lets one enjoy it all for the day. Although I didn’t pamper myself with this visit, I did spend time with the spa director, Heidi Gates, also a therapist and trainer, who has been with the property for eight years. She says the spa at El Monte Sagrado is special because “our therapists are some of the most incredible human beings. The feedback we get on our treatments is that so much care and passion go into the services. People are always blown away by that. We don't treat people like a guest, we treat them like an individual.” She says the spa has a standard of service for every treatment so that procedures are the same from therapist to therapist, who undergo a year-long training when first hired. Therapists learn to use indigenous salts, muds, and stones in their treatments, including their signature sacred staurolite treatment, which features special stones found in few places in the world, one being Taos. The treatment exfoliates the skin with the stones and helps in displacing negative energy. I also spent a bit of time with the sous chef, Rodney Hinton. He spares no detail in food preparation, just as no corners are cut in the service at the spa or in architectural details throughout the spa. He prepared a vegan benedict with tofu and oyster mushrooms that was out of this world. Thirty percent of the menu is vegetarian or vegan, and features many indigenous foods including buffalo posole and chicken fried rabbit with blue corn waffles. Food and beverages can be delivered to the spa from the restaurant so one can spend the day lounging in the beauty of the waterfalls. El Monte Sagrado is clearly a special and beautiful place, and I will be back to pamper myself soon with one of their many overnight specials and packages. 317 Kit Carson, Taos, 575-758-3502 www.elmontesagrado.com

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To Farm Another Year By Mark DeRespinis · Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Mark DeRespinis using a wheel hoe on Ojo Caliente Farm.

Over many seasons, a farm can only be as healthy as its farmer. The hard work of farming includes developing strategies to take care of the body, mind, and spirit of the farmer. The success of these strategies significantly contributes to the long term success of the farm and the wellness of the farmer.


n my first couple years of full-time farming, a seemingly deep ancestral enthusiasm and reserve fueled my daily work with soil and plants. I toiled long hours and threw myself eagerly into repetitive tasks and body contortions. When I bagged beautiful salad mix at the end of the day or when hand-dug carrots revealed their bright pigments as I meticulously washed the dirt from their lightly creased skins, it was all worth it. Those were the salad days of my farming career, before my body began to record the micro-traumas of reaching, bending, and hauling that inevitably accumulate over the course of the farmer’s year. 56

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Over many seasons, a farm can only be as healthy as its farmer. Farming is hard work, though the adage, “Work smarter not harder,” bears repeated remembrance as the years progress. The smart work of farming includes developing strategies to take care of the body, mind, and spirit of the farmer. The success of these strategies significantly contributes to the long term success of the farm, as well as to the wellness of the farmer. With the advice of veteran farmers from around the world, I have learned to weave preventive health measures into several facets of my gardening practices. Following Jean-Martin Fortier’s system as de-


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Top left, clockwise: Farm at Ojo Caliente; DeRespinis weeding lettuce beds; various types of hoes for weeding.

scribed in his book, The Market Gardener, my garden is set up with blocks of permanent thirty-inch wide beds that are raised four to eight inches above the pathways, offering a more accessible work surface. In this system, it is never necessary to reach more than fifteen inches from either side of the bed to harvest a crop. These raised beds are easy to straddle, and a squat or forward fold brings you close to the bed surface. The small advantage of proximity that these raised beds allow can really add up over the course of several hours of leaning over to cut greens or thin beets or placing thousands of transplants into their beds, each one requiring its own bend and tuck. I also learned from the bible of small-scale organic farming, Eliot Coleman’s The New Organic Grower, about the importance of using long-handled tools and an ergonomic stance while cultivating the soil. Instead of the traditional hoe chop, various blades are drawn across the surface of the soil in a sweeping motion to cut off and expose 58

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young weeds before they need to be heroically wrestled or cut down. These so-called stirrup and colinear hoes, as well as the walk-behind wheel hoe (pictured), have made weeding a pleasant, sometimes aerobic, and, most importantly, upright activity. Coleman describes these ergonomic tools as “designed as much to do the job as to be easy on the body of the user—and when you use a hoe that’s been designed for you to stand upright when you are using it with your thumbs up the handle, it’s just a pleasure to be out there.” Hand weeding, bent and pulling, is avoided in all but the most dire circumstances. Despite these more sustainable practices, there is no way to avoid the lifting of heavy harvest lugs laden with summer fruits, or the frequent bending to fuss with irrigation lines, or tucking in row cover for the too frequent cold spring and fall nights. Inevitably, there will be aches and pains and their necessary amelioration. According to Dr. Arlo Starr of Red Root Acupuncture, low back pain from bending and

hauling is the most common complaint he hears from the many farmers with whom he works in sourcing herbs for his practice. He often trades acupuncture for fresh produce, which makes its way to various Pueblo elder services and diabetes programs through the fledgling Farm to Pueblo initiative of the Native Acupuncture Project (www.nativeacupunctureproject.org/farm-to-pueblo.html). Basic self-care measures, such as light stretching, proper nutrition, and hydration can go a long way toward preventing an active farming life from turning into chronic pain. Dr. Starr touts the benefits of using medicinal herbs to support the body in stressful situations. I am a devotee of tonic and nutritive herbs, like nettles, chamomile, and lemon balm, strong infusions of which I drink daily to maintain my energy and health. In addition, I try to follow a basic regimen to keep the body and mind keen, agile, and dexterous throughout the long growing season. Yoga and cardiovascular exercise are my preferred modalities of physiological (and emotional) relief. Admittedly, it can be hard to find time for such extra-curricular activities during the height of the season, but I have found that even a thirtyminute sequence of stretches first thing in the morning or at night before bed can have a dynamic impact on my physical and emotional well-being. When I also hop on the trampoline for fifteen minutes of vigorous jumping, the benefits are surprising. I anticipate future seasons will see sessions of acupuncture, massage, rolfing, running, hiking, swimming, and martial arts to balance the body and nurture vital energies in the face of the relentless and repetitive motions required of the avid vegetable grower. It’s true, gardening can be an all-encompassing vocation, with great bursts of activity that align the grower with the seasonal procession. As the microbes wake up with the warming of the soil, so too does the gardener begin to surrender to the voices of the individual plants and the complexity of relationships that surround. So work, life—is there a division there? On his epochal “Farmer to Farmer” podcast, Chris Blanchard often asks his guests, as part of a lightning round of questions at the conclusion of the interview, “What was the last purely recreational thing you did?” It is telling that many of the farmers have to pause and come up with some clever response that reveals how rarified recreation can become in the life of a farmer. But there is a new paradigm afoot! I have heard whispered by migratory birds, narratives of distant farmers who work only ten- or even eight-hour days, and even take vacations in the middle of the summer! As a recovering hereditary workaholic, this intrigues me and inspires me to explore ways that I too might embrace this healthy balance between work and the rest of life. To start, I have begun by creating a guideline, and working from 7am to 5pm, five days a week. By thus limiting my hours, I am motivated to be increasingly efficient with the time available. In the off-season, I devote several days to making schedules and maps of all the greenhouse work, bed preparation, and plantings for the season ahead, and follow that plan as the season progresses to assure that the most essential tasks are completed each week. Unfortunately, and despite the best planning, the reality is that most farmers and many gardeners have more on their daily to-do list than they can actually achieve in daylight hours. On one of

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farmer, lecturer, and author Joel Salatin’s recent visits to Santa Fe, he suggested using time and motion studies to analyze the efficiencies of daily tasks. Simply put, if it takes two hours to harvest twenty pounds of salad mix instead of one, then it is all the more likely that at the end of the day there will not be time to cultivate the carrots. It is often possible to make small adjustments that translate to big time-savers, creating more space for things outside of the farm. Ah, yes, life outside the farm. As reward for the efforts to efficiently complete the necessary tasks of the farm in a timely fashion, I get the tremendous satisfaction of spending time with my wife and daughter each evening, one day each week where my daughter and I spend the whole day together, and another where we spend the day together as a family. Immense rejuvenation and a feeling of well-being comes from spending the day hiking in the mountains, patronizing the culture of the town, or even just relaxing at home. Sometimes we indulge in late breakfasts or elaborate dinner feasts with an abundance of nutritious and colorful seasonal fruits, vegetables, grains, eggs, and meats from our home garden and from the many amazing producers that surround us here in Northern New Mexico. In the end, it is these experiences that nurture and support that vital spirit which, after a brief restorative hibernation, motivates me to farm another year. Mark DeRespinis on the farm.

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edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016


t’s rare that celebrities enter my dreams, but in 2012 I awoke from one featuring Sandor Katz. I had come across his name here and there while researching homemade sauerkraut, but knew little about the author of the popular, thin cookbook, Wild Fermentation. When his name came across the radio later that day as NPR discussed his newest book, The Art of Fermentation, I took it as a sign. I headed straight to the bookstore for a copy of this nearly five-hundred-page New York Times bestselling tome. Fermentation is our oldest food preservation method, and harnessing it was likely part of what allowed humans to move from hunter-gather societies into more sedentary agricultural lifestyles, writes Katz. While recent generations have favored canning and freezing as modern food preservation methods, new research on the health benefits of fermented food has helped spur renewed interest in the ancient practice.

Over the past decade or so, scientists have found increasing evidence of the relationship between various aspects of our health and our microbiomes—the communities of bacteria that live on and in us, and which are critical to our survival. The microbes in our stomachs and intestines help us digest certain foods and access necessary vitamins. A healthy microbiome can ward off bacteria that are harmful to us and may play a role in mental health and diseases like asthma and type 1 diabetes. An article published in the journal Nature in 2011 suggests that diet, and its effect on our microbiome, could help address a variety of inflammatory conditions. According to the authors, “Daily consumption of fermented foods may be important for maintaining the necessary amount of Lactobacillus bacteria and may diminish the prevalence of allergic disease.” What we eat can alter our gut microbiomes—for better or for worse—and the living microbial cultures in fermented foods may help swing the balance in our favor.

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Our individual microbiomes begin to develop when we’re born and are informed by how we are delivered, what we are fed as infants, and where we live. After eighteen to thirty-six months, our microbiomes begin to settle, setting the microbial stage for the rest of our lives. Bouts of disease and antibiotic use can significantly alter the otherwise largely stable adult microbiota. Short-term dietary changes can alter the gut flora, but only for the short term. For longterm changes, a consistent diet with both probiotics (living bacterial cultures) and prebiotics (foods that support our microbiota) is necessary, suggests a 2014 study by researchers at Colorado State University, published in Frontiers in Microbiology. One well-advertised way to boost the amount of Lactobacillus is by eating yogurt containing live cultures. But other fermented foods like sauerkraut, kimchi, and fermented pickles also contain this coveted bacteria. Many people turn to Katz’s books for advice on safe home fermentation. Katz is quick to remind, though, that however exciting this emerging research may be, fermented foods are not a panacea—they alone will not cure all our ails. They may, however, be one of many factors toward achieving health. Fermented sauerkraut, kimchi, and pickles all rely on the same basic principle: salting the vegetable and submerging in brine to allow anaerobic WWW.EDIBLESANTAFE.COM


Top three: Colin Dyck throwing fermentation crocks on the wheel. Lower right: Katlyn Jennings of The Kombucha Project. Middle left: Mudslide Stoneware fermentation crocks. Lower left: Kombucha brews fermenting. 64

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bacteria, like Lactobacillus, to thrive and create an acidic environment that kills other, potentially harmful, bacteria.

The Cellar

For the home fermenter, one of the critical pieces of equipment is a fermentation vessel. Some people use glass mason jars, or a large ceramic crock like the stoneware jars one might find in an antique store. Others, like Colin Dyck, who owns Mudslide Stoneware in Santa Fe, also want their crock to be a thing of beauty. “It’s a significant object,” he says as we visit in his studio. “Why not have something that looks interesting?” Dyck began throwing ceramic crocks for himself because no one was making the kind of crock he wanted to buy. After moving to Santa Fe from the Western slope of Colorado two years ago, Dyck launched an Etsy site on a whim, and within just one hour, he’d made his first sale.

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Glazed in blues, greens, creams, and browns, Dyck’s fermentation crocks come with weights that rest atop the ferment, keeping it submerged, and they feature waterlocks that help seal the ferment from mold spores and dust. Dyck enjoys experimenting with ferments at home, from fermented hot sauce and miso to kimchi and sauerkraut, and liquid ferments like kombucha—which he also brews in one of his own spouted crocks. He likes this daily reminder in his kitchen of the unseen “bugs” so crucial to our lives. “We’re super intertwined,” he says. Kombucha, a fermented tea and sugar drink, is the featured product of Katlyn Jennings’s new endeavor, a social entrepreneurial startup in Santa Fe she calls The Kombucha Project. Kombucha likely originated in Asia centuries ago, but in recent years has exploded in popularity in the US. Like many rising food stars, kombucha’s health benefits, as well as risks, aren’t well tested, though many find it is helpful in digestion. Jennings began brewing kombucha six years ago after looking for a way to add vitamin B12 to her vegan diet. Unlike vegetable ferments, kombucha—and a similar fermented drink, jun—require plenty of oxygen for the aerobic activity of its SCOBY, or symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast. The SCOBY forms a thick, rubbery mat, sometimes erroneously called a mushroom or fungus, at the surface of the liquid. To make kombucha, Jennings brews a batch of tea with sugar, then, once it cools sufficiently, adds the SCOBY “mother” with a bit of kombucha set aside from a previous batch to acidify the tea. Like other ferments, it’s the acidity that allows beneficial bacteria to thrive while killing harmful strains. After an initial fermentation, kombucha can be brewed a second time with fruit or fruit juices to add flavor and carbonation.

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Jennings currently sells several flavors of kombucha at the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market, but has big plans to expand the scope of the project. After working on farms and agricultural nonprofits for several years, Jennings noticed some gaps in the system that she hopes her project can help address. Initially, kombucha sales will be her funding stream, but she plans to put that income back into the local agricultural economy, establishing herself as a guaranteed buyer for local farmers. The produce she buys may be seconds— not pretty enough to sell at market, but perfect for flavoring a second ferment or for turning into other value-added products like soups, dips, and sauces. Edible Quarter Page 1.indd 1






1/7/16 10:30 AM

Left: Pat Block cutting cucumbers for pickle fermentation. Right: Fermented goodies: escabeche and garlic pickles.

Pat Block also saw a void in the local food economy and decided to fill it. The void he saw? Pickles. “Some people got it,” he recalls. “Some thought I was nuts.” Did this void exist because no one else had thought of it, or did it exist because there really was no market for fermented pickles? Block was willing to find out. He opened Barrio Brinery with his wife and son on November 14, 2014—serendipitously, National Pickle Day—after retiring from a career in public service. When I visited Block at his shop just off West Alameda and Camino Alire in Santa Fe, I immediately spied the telltale bright orange cover of The Art of Fermentation on his desk. “Sandor Katz is also a layman,” says Block. “He breaks it all down.” Block’s sparse storefront also serves as a production space, with shiny metal work tables establishing the perimeter for customers. Block likes to keep it open so customers can see where it all happens—and how fastidious they are in keeping the space spotless. Block and his family processed four tons of produce on these tables last year, using up whatever local and organic pickling cucumbers he could find before turning to a commercial distributor to pick up the slack. He features a traditional dill pickle that has fermented in a cool back room for two weeks, developing a rich, complex flavor under the influence of Lactobacillus and a medley of traditional and more unconventional herbs. He also makes a spicy pickle infused with New Mexican red chile for a flavor both distinctly traditional and uniquely local. Barrio Brinery has added 66

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other flavors of pickles—sweet and sour, garlic, half-sour—as well as a crunchy sauerkraut and a fiery escabeche. Barrio Brinery is also one local shop where home fermenters can pick up supplies—including Mudslide Stoneware crocks. Despite the growing evidence of health benefits of fermented foods, there is still much we don’t know, and no story is ever the last word on a topic. The day before the deadline for this story, I chanced into a conversation with Ayurvedic chef Prakash Jagadappa, also featured in this issue. As I mentioned this article-in-progress, he advised that I should steer clear of all fermented foods. My constitution, according to Ayurvedic archetypes, is pitta, he told me. “I can tell by your face.” I must have raised a skeptical eyebrow, because he elaborated: “You’re a very curious person.” Yes, naturally, I thought—I write stories about other people’s work for a living. But then he went on: “The bottoms of your hands and feet are always cold.” How did he know? I wear sweaters and fingerless gloves in my office when other people are ready for shorts. “You should eliminate fermented foods completely,” he advised. I’m rather crestfallen by his recommendation, but I’ll be taking it under advisement and asking more questions. Is it possible that fermented foods are great for some of us but not for everyone? One five-thousand-year-old tradition suggests so, and I’m curious to know why. But still…a life with no sauerkraut or kimchi or most-delicious


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pickles? Coffee, chocolate, cheese and soy sauce would be off the list, and that’s just the beginning. All alcohol and vinegar, kombucha and jun, yogurt and tempeh… In The Art of Fermentation, Katz writes that an estimated onethird of the food eaten around the world has undergone some type of fermentation. It is, after all, our most ancient method of food preservation, and a mighty tasty one at that.



Home fermenters, fermentation enthusiasts, and anyone curious about the process should mark their calendars for the first annual New Mexico Fermentation Festival, to be held June 25, at the Gutierrez Hubbell House on Isleta Boulevard SW in Albuquerque. Meet the winemakers, picklers, potters, and cheesemongers developing a vibrant—and tasty— microbial culture in New Mexico, and learn the basics of unique fermentation processes through a series of workshops. www.nmfermentationfest.com


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A Tale of Two Plants


Yerba mansa and oshá owe much of their magic to their native environments. However, the current fragility of these environments requires humans to intervene—both by cultivation and by managing native habitat—to ensure the plants’ survival.


ity the poor plant that cannot run for cover or don a camouflaging disguise. Instead, survival for most flowering plants has meant evolving just the attractive and useful properties that will entice animals to pull them up and spread their seeds. For many wild plants, especially medicinal herbs, these attractive qualities can also spell their doom as human population and popularity for wild herbs increases and native habitat decreases. Such is the potential case for two of New Mexico’s most beloved wild medicinal plants—yerba mansa (Anemopsis californica) and oshá root (Ligusticum porteri)—whose traditional use as remedies for a wide range of ailments has made them legendary to a growing number of herbal medicine enthusiasts. Luckily, concerned herbalists have championed the cause of protecting these imperiled species. Together, the different predicaments of these native medicinals of New Mexico offer a new cautionary tale for conscientious locavores.


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

Albuquerque herbalist Dara Saville has trained hundreds of people over the last six years in the practice of wildcrafting, gathering remedies from the wild. “It occurred to me that my students could be part of the problem if we are harvesting without knowledge,” she explained. A former resource manager for the National Park Service who was already saddened by changes taking place in the Rio Grande bosque, she launched the Yerba Mansa Project as a charitable outgrowth of her business Albuquerque Herbalism. The idea was to try restoring yerba mansa to small remaining tracts of its native wetland environment, with the blessing of Albuquerque Open Space, the Army Corps of Engineers, and other agencies. Open Space directors agreed to the project in 2014, and last spring Saville and her small army of volunteers, including schoolchildren, began removing stands of invasive Ravenna grass from sites she chose near Tingley Beach.

“We’re going into areas where the Army Corps of Engineers has already done massive restoration, and putting the icing on the cake,” Saville explains. One of her primary goals is to gather data on whether yerba mansa actually can be re-established under such re-engineered conditions—the kind that, she fears, will be all that remains of the bosque’s natural environment before long. Botanist Jim McGrath, chair of the Albuquerque chapter of the Native Plant Society, explains why. For millions of years the Rio Grande would overflow its banks each spring, putting low-lying areas under water and helping wetland plants to put down roots. But as dams, drains, and channels were built to divert water away from residential areas, the wetland has continually drained. “They control the water flow in the Albuquerque area,” McGrath says of these engineering interventions, “but for wetland, you need to have water within about twelve inches of soil [surface] for long periods of time. So even though the water table may be three feet deep, it’s no longer a wetland.” This transformation has prevented new cottonwoods and willows from establishing in the bosque, giving the advantage to invasive species such as tamarisk, Russian olive, and Siberian elm. “Most of the cottonwoods in the bosque are the same size and the same age, from the 1940s,” Saville notes. As they reach the end of their short lives over the next few decades, the exotics will increasingly dominate the tree-scape—which is sad, Saville says, but not the fault of the plants. “They are just scapegoats for the changes we are making with our dams and jetty jacks. They are nature’s way of trying to heal and bring balance.” Yerba mansa can also be grown in the garden, and Saville encourages her students to cultivate the plant, which researchers at New Mexico State study as an alternative crop. But few wildcrafters can resist the urge to pull it up in the wild, sometimes from protected areas of the bosque. “I teach people to use weeds, and plants that are plentiful,” Saville says. “But there’s a lot more interest in working with plants like yerba mansa, because they are apothecary legends of the Southwest.” The disappearance of yerba mansa reflects large-scale changes taking place across the desert Southwest. The plant thrives in the brackish soils typical of the ciénegas (spring-fed alkaline marshes) that also have vanished over the last century. Yerba mansa is considered a keystone plant in these environments because its roots aerate the soil, making it more hospitable for other plants. This also helps explain its value as herbal medicine, Saville says, because it breaks up mucus in the body much as its roots break up the boggy soils of the wetland. With its anti-inflammatory, astringent, diuretic, antiseptic, and antifungal properties, yerba mansa “has been used for just about every condition you can imagine,” she says. The roots are pounded, soaked, or boiled for ailments from menstrual cramps to gout, Opposite page, left: Yerba mansa (Anemopsis californica), photo by Stan Shebs. Opposite page, right: Oshá root (Ligusticum porteri) in ColumbineHondo Wilderness Study area, photo by Jerry Friedman.

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Top left: Dara Saville of Albuquerque Herbalism in a field of yerba mansa. Right: Group of volunteers working on the yerba mansa restoration project in the Albuquerque Bosque. Photos courtesy of Dara Saville. Bottom left: Daniel Gagnon of Herbs Etc. in a field of calendula (Calendula officinalis), photo courtesy of Herbs Etc.

stomach aches to colds. The leaves and seeds have been used to treat wounds and fungal infections. Yerba mansa’s ethnobotanical history is quite similar to that of oshá root in that both have been used for everything from digestive troubles to aches and pains. Oshá root breaks up mucus, opens airways, and soothes the throat, making it a valuable cold remedy, but this root faces a different set of survival challenges. Growing in the high mountains of northern New Mexico and southern Colorado, this umbel-flowered plant has its own evangelist in veteran herbalist Daniel Gagnon, who shares with Saville the simultaneously calm and vigorous demeanor that seems to advertise the beneficial effects of herbal medicine. Gagnon’s business Herbs Etc. in Santa Fe has sold oshá gathered by northern New Mexico families for three generations, so sustaining the herb has long been a concern of his. 72

edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

In 2013 he made a five-year commitment of funding research into the plant’s sustainability as part of the Adopt an Herb program of United Plant Savers (UpS), an Ohio-based organization that works to protect native medicinal plants. Oshá is on the group’s list of nineteen North American native species most at risk, a step above the twenty-three plants to watch, which includes yerba mansa. However, Gagnon’s research has surprisingly found that oshá seems to thrive in conditions that have spelled doom for others. “It’s a rhizome, more horizontal to the soil,” he explains. “When you harvest, it tends to leave some of the root, which comes back. That’s the beauty of rhizomes—you can’t harvest everything out. You’d have to surgically remove the whole plant.” This appears to be why, in two experiments he joined in Colorado, oshá grew back so lushly that it was impossible to tell where it had been harvested lightly or picked clean.

Even more surprising was how the plant took off in southern Colorado forests stripped by bark beetle infestation. “With the evergreens dying, that’s actually creating a better condition for oshá,” Gagnon said. “The amount coming out of those fields is three times what you find under tree canopy.” Similarly, the plant does well in forests leveled by fire, thanks to the symbiotic effects of mycorrhizal fungi. In short, Gagnon says, what is bad for forests appears to be good for oshá. Unfortunately, oshá, unlike yerba mansa, has not been cultivated successfully on any commercial scale. It prefers deep, rich mountain soils at elevations above nine thousand feet, and “there are not many farms that high,” Gagnon says. “There are some in the Pecos, in Taos, and in Colorado,” but figuring out how to grow the plant, “has to be tweaked out." Agricultural research into cultivating oshá is planned in Santa Fe this year and is ongoing in other Rocky Mountain locations, he says. But for the most part, oshá that is available commercially has been harvested in the wild. The divergent paths of these two ancient herbs thus lead to a similar conclusion: Without human intervention, many plants in the global pharmacopeia are in imminent peril. Indeed, demand for herbal ingredients, which climbs by twenty percent a year in the West, is even greater in developing countries, where eighty to ninety percent of the population relies primarily on herbal medicine, according to the World Health Organization. “We have to look at doing that with all our plants,” Gagnon says of intense research into cultivation. “It’s proper stewardship.” Already, some fifteen thousand medicinal plant species—one in eight plants—may be threatened with extinction from over-harvesting, according to the World Conservation Union. Commercial exploitation in an increasingly competitive marketplace is creating shortages in communities that have a centuries-long tradition of herbalism, according to a 2008 report from the Center for Biological Diversity. This only adds pressure on useful North American remedies. Conscientious food consumers tuned into the provenance of their seafood and produce often do not realize that the herbs found in products from cough drops to shampoo usually have been picked in the wild. The growing practice of wildcrafting adds stress at the local level if it is done without regard for ecological consequences. That’s why Saville emphasizes the educational and research aspects of her Yerba Mansa Project—as part of an awareness-building “rewilding” movement that aims to reconnect us to “knowing the land, knowing the plants, and knowing our place in that.” Yerba mansa and oshá owe much of their magic to their native environments. However, the current fragility of these environments requires humans to intervene—both by cultivation and by managing native habitat—to ensure the plants’ survival. When the world loses any one of its sacred medicinal plants, it is not just humans who lose a remedy for their ailments, it is the Earth itself who suffers another blow to her adaptive ability to heal. Albuquerque Herbalism, www.albuquerqueherbalism.com Herbs Etc, www.herbsetc.com

Welcome to ABQ Olive Oil Company Tap Room

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edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016



New Mexico has its own unique food traditions








—from Hatch to Chimayó—and we’d like to help you find some of the area's restaurants and chefs that create the distinctively New Mexico dining experience. Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food. SUPPORT THESE RESTAURANTS, AND SUPPORT LOCAL FOOD COMMUNITIES.

colombian bistro

now open

tuesday-saturday 11am-8pm

3216 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-2305, www.ajiacobistro.com Ajiaco’s varied Colombian cuisine is influenced by a diverse flora and fauna found around Colombia. Cultural traditions of different Colombian ethnic groups play a roll in our choice of ingredients.


New Location Open in Old Town! Country Club Plaza, 1710 Central SW, Albuquerque Green Jeans Farmery, 3600 Cutler NE, Albuquerque 505-554-1967, www.amoreabq.com New Mexico’s first and only certified Neapolitan pizzeria, creating Neapolitan recipes with house-made fresh ingredients and local flavor.

Brew by

villa myriam

311 Gold SW, Albuquerque 505-814-1599, www.villamyriam.com

8917 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-503-7124, www.farmandtablenm.com

Family-owned from farm to cup, we are steeped in three generations of coffee excellence.

A wonderful dining experience! Enjoy delectable seasonal dishes created from scratch, sourced from local farmers and our beautiful on-site farm.

1710 Central SW, Albuquerque 5901 Wyoming NE, Albuquerque 505-821-1909, www.5starburgers.com

3600 Cutler NE (Carlisle & I-40), Albuquerque www.greenjeansfarmery.com

11225 Montgomery NE, 505-271-0882 3403 Central NE, 505-266-7855 10701 Corrales NW, 505-899-7500 www.ilvicino.com

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of sandwiches, entrees, salads, a kid’s menu, beer and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

A unique indoor/outdoor gathering place that builds on ingenuity, localist choices, healthy living and neighborhood. Food, drink, fitness, fashion and fun!

A contemporary Italian Trattoria, offers authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer.

4803 Rio Grande NW, Albuquerque 505-344-9297, www.lospoblanos.com

Central at 10th SW, Albuquerque @ The Silver Moon Lodge 505-312-7394, www.mixxfoodbar.com


3222 Silver SE, Albuquerque 505-266-0607, www.freshcitrus.us Breakfast and lunch all day! Sweet and savory regular and gluten-free crepes, tortas, burritos, empanadas and handmade pies. Delicious coffee and a wonderful large outdoor patio. Mon–Fri 7am–5pm | Sat–Sun 8am–5pm

Rooted in organic ingredients from our own farm and the Rio Grande Valley region. Join us at La Merienda, Wed-Sun 6 - 9pm, by reservation only.

Tocs, Micheladas & Clamatos Local Brews & Wine




4003 Carlisle NE, Albuquerque 505-884-3625, www.nmpiecompany.com

1403 Girard NE, Albuquerque 505-792-1700, www.piatanzi.com

Handmade sweet and savory pies with pure flavors and premium ingredients, locally roasted coffee and espresso drinks. Mention this ad to get 15% off your order!

Our fabulous small-plate Italian creations are crafted from the finest, freshest ingredients; organic, farm-raised, and locally sourced. Featuring a beer and wine bar.

10601 Montgomery NE, Albuquerque 505-294-9463, www.savoyabq.com California wine country in the Northeast Heights. Farm-to-table dining from the area's best farms. Wine tastings and happy hour.

The Cellar 2031 Mountain NW, Albuquerque 505-766-5100, www.seasonsabq.com Oak-fired grill, local ingredients, and the best patio dining Old Town has to offer!

1025 Lomas NW, Albuquerque 505-242-3117, www.thecellartapas.com

600 Central SE, Albuquerque 505-248-9800, www.thegrovecafemarket.com

An oasis of casual elegance where delicious wines, local microbrews on tap, and sophisticated tapas cuisine will transport you to Old Spain. Tuesday-Saturday, 11am-9:30pm

The Grove features a bustling café experience serving breakfast, brunch and lunch. Local, seasonal, organic foods, Intelligentsia coffee and tea, beer, wine and signature sweets.


2933 Monte Vista NE, Albuquerque 505-433-2795, theshopbreakfastandlunch.com Come in for breakfast or lunch, creative American classics with Latin and creole influences, made from local and organic ingredients.

413 Montano NE, Albuquerque 505-803-7579, www.trifectacoffeecompany.com We roast coffee, and brew it in unique ways utilizing some of the best methods available. All of our baked goods, sweet, and savory are made in house.

Speakeasy 6855 4th NW, Albuquerque 505-341-0831, yougottapassword.com Make your reservations early and wait for the word. Cloaked behind the guise of a liquor store, the ever so popular "speakeasy" is a place where one can imbibe in their favorite alcoholic beverage while enjoying the posh atmosphere, live entertainment, and elegant food.


3423 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-255-8226, www.zacatecastacos.com Zacatecas features recipes handed down from generation to generation with flavors that are true to the history and culture of Mexico. Zacatecas is a real taqueria.


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016

3009 Central NE, Albuquerque 505-254-9462, www.zincabq.com

5 Thomas, Los Lunas 505-866-1936, www.greenhousebistro.com

A three level bistro featuring contemporary cuisine with a French flair. Dinner daily, weekend brunch, fabulous cocktails, and tasty bar bites!

Good food always puts you in a good mood! Fresh, seasonal ingredients provide the basis for a meal that promotes healthy living.


A NA SAZ I RESTAURANT 60 East San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-983-6138, www.35northcoffee.com Committed to providing conscious quality coffee from crop to cup. Fresh, superior grade, coffee beans responsibly sourced from trusted growers at peak harvest for stand-out flavor and the highest coffee experience.

622 St. Michaels, Santa Fe 505-438-1163, www.agniayurveda.com Our mission at Agni Ayurveda is to help you attain exceptional health of mind, body, and spirit through ancient Ayurvedic treatments, cooking classes, and diet & lifestyle consultation.

113 Washington, Santa Fe 505-988-3236, www.rosewoodhotels.com The recently redesigned restaurant and bar celebrates the creative spirit of Santa Fe with a new chic, sophisticated design that complements the buildings’s legendary architecture. Featuring Southwestern cuisine with regional Latin influences.

5 218 Camino La Tierra, Santa Fe 505-983-2100, www.arroyovino.com

505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe 505-469-2345, www.bangbitesf.com

604 N Guadalupe, Santa Fe 505-983-8977, www.5starburgers.com

Arroyo Vino, voted a top 100 restaurant in America by OpenTable reviewers, serves progressive american fare inspired by our on premise garden and local purveyors.

Fresh. Local. Tasty. A bunch of food enthusiasts obsessed with serving the very best crafted food we can get and delivering it the way it was meant to be enjoyed.

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrees, sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

95 W Marcy, Santa Fe 505-984-1091, www.ilpiattosantafe.com

321 W San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-986-8700, www.ilvicino.com

72 W Marcy Street, Santa Fe 505-982-3433, www.labocasf.com

A local favorite since 1996, boasting an authentic Italian farmhouse experience, sourcing its ingredients directly from local farms, dairies, and ranches. Extensive wine list.

A contemporary Italian Trattoria, offers authentic Italian wood-oven pizza, entrées, salads, sandwiches, baked lasagna, and more. Enjoy our own micro-brewed ales and home-brewed root beer.

With the feel of a lively European wine bar, La Boca offers modern Spanish tapas, unique international wine selections, and an extensive list of Spanish sherries.


125 E Palace, Santa Fe 505-988-5232, www.lacasasena.com

100 E San Francisco, Santa Fe 505-982-5511, www.lafondasantafe.com

228 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe 505-989-1904, www.mangiamopronto.com

A local favorite for over thirty years! Chef Jose Rodriguez features New American West cuisine infused with fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. We also feature an award-winning wine list.

Showcasing contemporary interpretations of old favorites with New World influences and classic New Mexican cuisine, accompanied by an awardwinning wine list.

Enjoy fresh, authentic, Italian street food; house-made gelato; Lavazza espresso; and wine and beer all day long on our beautiful sidewalk patio.




505 Cerrillos and 1098 S St. Francis, Santa Fe 505-982-9692, www.ohoriscoffee.com

58 South Federal, Santa Fe 505-986-5858, www.osteriadassisi.com

The original specialty, local micro-roasted coffee source since 1984. Along with our fresh beans, we serve espresso, pour-over, teas, pastries, donuts, burritos, chocolates, and more.

An authentic Italian restaurant in Santa Fe, assuring us all that Italy never feels too far away. Gracious service mixed with fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farms to create homemade items.

815 Early, Santa Fe 505-989-1288, www.rasajuice.com

20 Buffalo Thunder, Santa Fe 505-819-2056, www.buffalothunderresort.com

An organic juice bar and cafĂŠ committed to offering delicious plant-based foods, cold-pressed juices, and innovative cleansing and detox programs.

Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder is perfect for your next romantic night out. Fare rotates seasonally. Enjoy the extensive wine list.

548 Agua Fria Street, Santa Fe 505-930-5325, www.radishandrye.com Farm-inspired cuisine: simple yet innovative food and drinks sourced locally whenever possible. We work closely with local farmers and ranchers to build our menu.

500 Sandoval Street, Santa Fe 505-467-8237, www.statecapitalkitchen.com State Capital Kitchen, connected to local farmers, ranchers, and foragers, crafts food with love. Consisting of progressive courses, using carts to choose from and our menu as well.


Creative Casual Cuisine 304 Johnson, Santa Fe 505-989-1166, www.terracottawinebistro.com

653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505-982-4353, www.compoundrestaurant.com

221 Highway 165, Placitas 505-771-0695, www.bladesbistro.com

A smart, casual restaurant located in a charming one-hundred-year-old adobe. Seasonally changing, globally inspired cuisine and an extensive, value-priced wine list.

The Compound Restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Chef Mark Kiffin continues to preserve a landmark tradition of elegant food and service at his Canyon Road institution.

Chef and owner Kevin Bladegroen brings together fine and fresh ingredients, artistic vision, and European flair in every dish. Sunday brunch, fabulous cocktails, and an award-winning wine list.


5 125 Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-1977, www.taosinn.com Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Patio dining, fresh local foods, award-wining wines, and margaritas. Try our signature chile rellenos.

1032 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur, Taos 575-758-8484, www.5starburgers.com

100 State Highway 150, El Prado 575-776-8787, www.medleyinelprado.com

Fresh beef, free of hormones or antibiotics. Best burger in New Mexico says USA TODAY. A wide selection of entrees, sandwiches, salads, a kid’s menu, beer, and wine. Happy hour 4 - 6 every day.

A casual yet refined dining experience featuring world class wines and culinary delights inspired by regional American cuisines with a touch of international flair.


103 E Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-1994, www.parcht.com

908 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-758-2374 216 B Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-751-1989 www.taosdinner.com

103 E Taos Plaza, Taos 575-758-8866, www.thegorgebarandgrill.com

/pärCHt/= the physical condition resulting from the need to drink wine, eat good food, and shop…in Taos.

Home to New Mexican and American homemade, homegrown, and organic breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Gluten-free choices. Beer and wine.

Our menu is straightforward yet eclectic, and chock full of favorites made from scratch using as many fresh and local ingredients as possible.


by Enrique Guerrero Makes 1 drink

A favorite in Mexico, the Cantarito is a complex cousin of the Paloma. This classic highball adds lemon and orange juice to the mix of tequila, lime, and grapefruit soda. A few brands of soda fit the bill, though Squirt is most commonly used. Juices make this cocktail; it's always best fresh squeezed. 1 1/2 ounces tequila 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice 1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice 1/2 ounce fresh orange juice Grapefruit soda Orange wedges for garnish Salt for rimming (optional) Fill a shaker with ice and add the tequila and juices and shake vigorously. Rim a Collins glass with salt and add ice. Pour contents of shaker in the glass. Top off with grapefruit soda. Garnish with orange wedge. Note: For extra zing, use ice cubes made with puree of cucumber, jalapeùo, mint—or all three.


edible Santa Fe | EARLY SUMMER 2016





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