Dine Magazine Winter 2022

GEORGE PAUL VINEGAR • THE PORTICO SPEZIA • DANTE • DETOX SOBER LOUNGE THE STIRRED POT • HWY 14 BREWING CO.

Elevating the Nebraska dining experience

PANCAKES: Behold the breakfast staple

WINTER 2022

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Elevating the Nebraska dining experience VOLUME 3, ISSUE 2 WINTER 2022

PUBLISHER AND OWNER Carole Sprunk (402) 587-2259 // Carole@DineNebraska.com CO-OWNER Michael Meyer (402) 517-0350 // Michael@DineNebraska.com EXECUTIVE EDITOR Kathy Rygg (402) 490-3213 // Kathy@DineNebraska.com DINE is published quarterly.

Content copyright © 2022 DINE Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, without permission in writing from the publisher, Carole Sprunk.

Although care has been taken to ensure the accuracy, completeness and reliability of the information provided, DINE assumes no responsibility therefore.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DINE Magazine, PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022

MANAGING EDITOR Gabby Hellbusch (402) 320-7080 // Gabby@DineNebraska.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Nicole Buntgen, Anna Hartman, Megan Keyser, Holly McAtee, and Michael Meyer DESIGNERS Quentin Lueninghoener and Ben Vankat, Hanscom Park Studio (402) 517-1228 // Contact@HanscomPark.com PHOTO STAFF Christopher Tierney Photography (402) 350-5699 ADVERTISING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Nicole Buntgen

CONTACT US (402) 587-2259 Carole@ DineNebraska.com PO Box 620 Elkhorn, NE 68022 2 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

(402) 367-2526 // Nicole@DineNebraska.com ADVISORY BOARD Brian O’Malley, Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts Matthew Brown, Advanced Sommelier, V. Mertz

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Table of Contents THE STIRRED POT

HWY 14 BREWING CO., DANTE, MOCKTAILS

THE PORTICO

9

10

18

Dine Around Nebraska

Purposeful dining Wine, beer beneath the Portico & spirits

EARLY BIRD, HAROLD’S KOFFEE HOUSE, JOJO’S DINER

SPEZIA

24 Stacked to perfection 4 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

GEORGE PAUL VINEGAR

42

40 Dine Expert

Crafted in tradition

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5FMM UIF LJUDIFO The Open Kitchen Podcast with Brian O’Malley shares the un-crafted narratives and hard-learned lessons from personalities (perhaps luminaries) inside today’s supportive, demanding and exciting restaurant world.

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Letter from the editor Happy New Year! In 2021, Dine Magazine was privileged to share the unique stories of the Nebraska dining community. Heading into 2022, we are excited to continue this trend—starting with a special lineup in this issue.

FIND THE FLATWARE! Hidden in this issue is the image of a fork and spoon.

Be the first to snap a photo of the flatware and share on Facebook and/ or Instagram and tag @dinenebraskamagazine.

If you are the first one, you will win a $50 gift card to Zen Coffee Co. One entry per issue, please.

Let’s share the love!

DINE SUPPLIER

Corn grown at Miller Dohrmann Farm

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44 DINE MAGAZINE

Follow along as we take on a timeless breakfast staple: pancakes. This mouthwatering story featuring Early Bird, Harold’s Koffee House, and Jojo’s Diner will keep readers feeling warm inside from the first to the last word.

We also hit up The Portico, a micro restaurant in Lincoln, to share its unique dining experience with readers. The concept is truly one-of-a-kind, taking place in the backyard of Chef/Owner Kevin Shinn.

Taking a trip out west, we take a look at George Paul Vinegar, which supplies traditionally crafted fruit and wine vinegars to various customers across the country.

In times such as this, adapting is a necessity in the restaurant scene. Executive Chef/General Manager Brian Reilly has mastered the skill of adaptability and remains committed to offering guests a classic, exceptional dining experience at Spezia. We explore Reilly’s story in our Expert section.

In Dine Around Nebraska, we land in Albion where a food truck, The Stirred Pot, has become a small town legend. Also in this issue, find stories about special dining experiences at Dante, Dry January mocktail ideas from the newly established Detox Sober Lounge, and fun winter brew options from HWY 14 Brewery.

Of course, we couldn’t share these spectacular tales without the support of our excellent advertising partners who believe in promoting our state’s extraordinary restaurant industry.

We hope these stories will inspire our readers to seek new dining adventures in 2022. On behalf of our team, we wish you a bright and healthy New Year!

Gabby Hellbusch Managing Editor DI N E NE BRASKA .COM 45

The flatware hid on page 44 in the Supplier section of the fall issue.

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DINE AROUND NEBRASKA

Beef slider

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THE STIRRED POT takes small town eating to a new level

Causing a stir in Albion STORY BY HOLLY McATEE PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE STIRRED POT Growing up in small-town Albion, Nebraska, Chef Curtis Luettel said a lot of family time happened around the dinner table. In fact, he said sitting down for a home cooked meal every night was the norm. From a very young age, Luettel was inspired by food — he even loved watching cooking shows in his free time — and it didn’t take long for him to realize he had a passion for the culinary arts.

After graduation, he moved to Omaha to attend The Institute for the Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College.

While in the city, he worked at The French Bulldog, Over Easy, and Ugly Duck.

He then moved back to his hometown and made plans to open his first restaurant, The Stirred Pot. Luettel’s mom, Jacque, who has been an integral part of the restaurant’s success from the beginning, named the business. Luettel said the name was chosen because, “When you stir the pot, you cause trouble. When you open a business in a small town it always causes a stir.”

The Stirred Pot opened March 2018 with the first menu consisting of four sandwiches, soups, salads, and hand cut fries. The business was going very well, until a year and a half later when the building it occupied was sold. Luettel looked for other locations to rent, with no luck. The hunt ended when the City of Albion informed him that he could set up a food truck downtown, which he opened in March 2020.

Luettel cooks from scratch and uses fresh ingredients whenever possible.

Made with bacon, lettuce, tomato, garlic aioli and tomato jam, the BLT is an especially popular menu item. The Bike Shop Burger — consisting of 80% ground

Pollo con salsa verde/chicken with salsa verde

beef and 20% ground bacon on a brioche bun from the North Fork Bread Company — pays homage to the former bike shop location on which the restaurant is now situated. The burger is topped with a fry sauce that includes mayo, ketchup, pickle relish and a few other ingredients.

In the summer, many local farmers bring buckets of produce to sell to the restaurant. “Local farmers appreciate what we do,” Luettel said. “They appreciate that

we use local produce and that nothing goes to waste. They are so supportive.”

Luettel described Albion as a growing community that hosts concerts and rodeos, while still maintaining a slower lifestyle.

For aspiring cooks, Luettel said he encourages them to follow their dream, as he did. “Go for it and don’t be afraid,” Luettel said. “It’s a passion. Get out there and try things.”

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DINE SCENE

PURPOSEFUL DINING

BENEATH THE

PORTICO N STORY BY MEGAN KEYSER PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE PORTICO

estled in the heart of Lincoln, a gentleman welcomes dinner guests into his very own backyard space for a one-of-a-kind dining experience.

The Portico owner and chef Kevin Shinn lost his wife in late 2019 after a long hospice season, battling sickness. Shifting from primary caregiver duties to full time widower, he recognized his need to start anew. He embarked on a three-month European adventure that was cut short due to the global pandemic. Shinn, with a history of restaurant assembly and management, came back to the States with a love of food creation reignited.

Restaurants were closing and work opportunities dwindled, so he decided to work on renovating his home, specifically his back yard. He repainted his home’s exterior, built a fire pit, and expanded his yard’s seating area.

In May 2020, a couple Shinn knew from his restaurant days reached out to ask if he would make a meal for their 25th wedding anniversary. Shinn cooked them a five-course meal, paired it with two wines, boxed it up, and sent it over to their house.

The couple paid handsomely for it. They posted pictures and the power of social media took over.

The very next day Shinn got a request for a similar exchange. Shinn replied, “I will do it on one condition. I will not box it and send it to your house. Would you feel

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safe and comfortable in my backyard?” The second guest said, “yes.”

Shinn asked many questions to understand what these guests were looking for and constructed a menu around their preferences. He came up with a serving plan, breaking the meal into different parts, and giving the group a memorable experience.

Word spread of The Portico establishment and from May through November 2020, Shinn hosted 38 dinner experiences, concluding the season when

Owner/chef Kevin Shinn

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DINE SCENE

the weather was too cold to comfortably dine outside.

Booking requests for the next year continued to roll in, specifically from one pressing guest who encouraged Kevin to make this an “official business.”

By April 2021, Shinn was approved by the health department, obtained his liquor license, and was able to serve (what would become 71 groups) the following season.

Shinn provides culinary experiences that are highly specific to the preferences of his guests, keeping his groups small, typically around four to six people. The average group’s stay is four hours, giving guests the chance to slow down and truly connect with each other. Shinn prepares the atmosphere, shifting guests between the fire pit space to the seated courses in the covered portico area. He mixes and serves drinks, adjusts table arrangements between courses, educates on food origin, cooks the food, and presents the food himself.

Mindful of food restrictions and aversions, the plates are the same for each guest. If one person is vegetarian, the whole group is vegetarian for the evening.

Every group’s menu is unique and it’s 12 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Sourdough bread

Tortellini with chevre, butternut, brown butter and sage

DINENE BRASK A .COM 13

DINE SCENE

Backyard view

14 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

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built according to the season. Shinn shops at a local farmers market and sources protein and large produce orders from local farmers.

The first portion of the experience is a “cocktail hour and three quarters.” Guests have an array of drink offerings and small bites of food. From there, Shinn moves them to the table beneath the portico. The following course is served family style. He brings out a loaf of bread and complements, then a trio or quartet of vegetables prepared to the season. The guests shift away from the table as Shinn clears it to reset for the final three plated dishes. He typically serves a pasta, a protein, then a dessert.

Shinn’s daughter lived with him during the business’s early season and helped him with serving as much as she could. Today, Shinn keeps his booking list condensed, for good reason. “It’s just me and it’s manageable.” His goal is to continue to operate The Portico six to seven months out of the year and then shift his attention to his writing. He recently completed a book of poetry that was released in December, much of which has helped him process his wife’s passing.

“I love cooking and writing,” Shinn said. “Moving into my midlife years as a widower I want to make sure I’m fully focused on what I’m good at and what I need to be doing.” He also plans to mentor chefs and budding entrepreneurs. “Everything I learned was on the job and on the fly. I can help give a good start or help them weather some initial challenges.”

Shinn looks forward to providing his guests a memorable experience in 2022 and continues to connect with readers through impactful writing projects.

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HWY 14 Brewing Co.

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DINE BEER

NO BLUES,

Just winter brews The holidays have come and gone. Winter days are upon us with the early darkness. Yet, in Albion, Nebraska, the winter doldrums disappeared ever since HWY 14 Brewing Co. opened its doors back in 2018!

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MICHAEL MEYER

Greg and Mandy Luettel are the brewery owners and grew up in Albion. Their college and early career days had them on the move, but the journey back home has been a good one. Winters for the couple have always been a special time of the year being with family around the holidays.

Keeping that holiday cheer going throughout the winter months can be difficult, but HWY 14 Brewing with its twelve beers on tap provides solace beyond the ringing in of the new year.

Here are just a few of HWY 14 Brewing’s winter brews: PEACH COBBLER – a peach wheat ale with cinnamon, vanilla, and lactose that will have drinkers thinking about mom’s cobbler coming out of the oven.

ROAD HAZARD – a spiced brown ale that has the aroma of a sugar cookie. It is a craft beer version of cream soda, but not nearly as sweet.

S’MORE NOW – a porter with marshmallow, chocolate, and graham cracker notes that have folks dreaming about sitting around a campfire.

ACE OF SPADES – a roasty, creamy milk stout with chocolate notes that is warming on a cold day.

CINNAMON CRUNCH – a spiced brown ale that is easy drinking with just the right amount of cinnamon.

Wintertime in small towns is also about finding a place to go before or after that high school basketball game or other local activity. Greg and Mandy enjoy being able to provide food at the brewery. They have partnered with The Stirred Pot in Albion, which comes in on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings to serve items such as sliders, cheese boards, and other shareables that pair well with the beer.

In Albion, the Luettels are doing their best to turn the winter blues into winter bliss.

Cheers!

DINENE BRASK A .COM 19

tajarin pasta with butter, parmigiano reggiano and black perigord truffle

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DINE WINE

DANTE hosts Italian wine producers for exclusive dining experiences

Got Nebbiolo?

One of the best spots to try Italian wines in Omaha is Dante, where Nick Strawhecker and his sommeliers bring in unique Italian wine producers for decadent pairing dinners. Last October, Executive Chef Drew Statz paired luscious Raineri wines with regional duck from Au Bon Canard in Minnesota.

Luciano Racca of Raineri, now located in St. Louis, grew up in the bucolic Piedmont region, but his appreciation for his home has intensified over time. According to Racca, “In 1997, the Piedmont area became a UNESCO World Heritage site, which brought attention to the area and it just popped.”

In the early years, the winemakers of Raineri planted Dolcetto, a heritage grape harvested early and drunk young.

Though it does age beautifully, it’s often not around long enough. Racca said, “It’s what locals enjoy while waiting for Nebbiolo to age into Barolo.” A bit surprisingly, one of the biggest markets for Dolcetto is the Midwest.

Nebbiolo, named for the fog that descends over the Piedmont vineyards at harvest time, is the grape responsible for some of the most sought after Italian red wines. Big, beautiful Barolos, 100 percent Nebbiolo, are a delight to behold, brought to perfection by aging in French

Oak. According to Racca, the Monserra 2014 Barolo featured at the dinner was nearly ruined due to bad weather, but Raineri hedged their bets and let the fruit hang during the following sunny Indian summer, which resulted in wine with a very fruity character and perfect body.

The 2018 Raineri Langhe Snart proved lovely with traditional tajarin, prepared simply with cultured butter and a shower of truffles. Snart means steep slope in the Piedmontese dialect, an apt moniker for these grapes grown in a tiny vineyard on the single road to Mumforte, inaccessible by any motor vehicle due to steep pitch.

Though married beautifully with assertive proteins, diners do not often find Barolo paired with dessert, but it goes remarkably well with gelato. Statz and his crew reached into the coffers of genius with the final pairing of the dinner: a mascarpone cheesecake quenelle with a duck fat gelato.

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS COURTESY OF DANTE

tajarin with truffles

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DINE SPIRITS

Non-alcoholic options for DRY JANUARY and beyond

Make it a mocktail When one is not drinking for any reason, they no longer need to settle for a club soda with lime, a Shirley Temple, or fruit juice parading as a “virgin” cocktail. Mocktails, simply described as nonalcoholic mixed drinks, have burst on the scene as creative, delicious, and interesting beverages, often featuring house-made components that tantalize and please all manner of palates.

Many fine restaurants and bars in Omaha have one or two craft mocktails on the menu, and nearly all mixologists are pleased to create a special drink upon request based on customer desires.

However, there also exists an entire establishment dedicated to sober clientele who intend to keep it that way. Detox Sober Lounge, located at 7215 Blondo, was recently opened by Alexis Lawson. The celebratory spot serves craft bartender-designed mocktails and snacks on Friday and Saturday evenings, providing patrons with entertainment options like pool tables, dart boards, karaoke, drag shows, and board games. Beverages such as The Detox, a tropical-flavored treat, or the Skinny Fauxjito are both tasty and popular, providing a little something special for a night out.

To celebrate Dry January, the Continuing Education department at Metropolitan Community College is offering a 5-course mocktail pairing studio at Sage Bistro, the student-led restaurant

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN

of The Institute for the Culinary Arts on January 21 and 22. Each course is carefully paired with complementary mocktails, and patrons will leave with a recipe or two to add to their home mocktail arsenal.

At many establishments, the mocktail list also features nonalcoholic wines, beers, and spirits, all of which are more flavorful and nuanced than in earlier iterations. A wide variety of choices, including alcohol-removed wines, beverages infused with CBD or hemp, or zero-proof spirits, are readily available to wet one’s whistle.

Finally, it’s not necessary to imbibe to enjoy locally-produced spirits: Sandhills Elixir is a zero-proof nonalcoholic spirit distilled in Valentine, Nebraska with Ogallala Aquifer water. Flavors such as Sage, Chokecherry, and Cranberry are delicious on their own, but shine bright as components in the wide range of mocktail recipes provided on their social media channels. Sandhills Elixir is available via mail order or from local shops across the state.

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DINE DISCOVER

STACKED TO PERFECTION

Harold’s Koffee House

A taste of Omaha’s uniquely crafted PANCAKES

STORY BY NICOLE BUNTGEN PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY 24 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Early Bird

Ah,

pancakes: a nostalgic, notorious breakfast item that’s quick to make, simple yet sweet, and a filling food that carries one through the day.

Smothered with butter and drowning in syrup, pancakes are a reliable meal that a person can’t go wrong with. These flat, flavorful heaps of batter have always been a main morning meal component. But what makes one pancake stand out from another?

With two locations in Omaha, one location in Iowa, and another location coming soon to the Big O, Early Bird lives

Jojo’s Diner

by its tagline of Not your everyday brunch, every day. As if chili and cinnamon rolls weren’t already a Nebraska staple, Early Bird has combined flapjacks with these sweet rolls to create the ultimate breakfast experience: cinnamon roll pancakes.

The restaurant presents this pancake in an aesthetically pleasing way by cooking batter in oblong strips and rolling them into the shape of a mouthwatering cinnamon roll.

The staff at Early Bird is always keeping busy by making batches of pancake batter fresh daily. With a variety of pancakes to choose from, Early Bird emphasizes how customizable its options are and the importance of providing an indulgent and

Pancake variety at Jojo’s Diner DINENE BRASK A .COM 25

DINE DISCOVER

Banana and peanut butter pancake at Jojo’s Diner 26 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

DINENE BRASK A .COM 27

DINE DISCOVER

Jojo’s Diner Head Chef Tim Glazeski

happy experience for guests. Ben Brigman, general manager, said the restaurant plays with nostalgia through its vibrant environment and bright splashes of color bouncing across the walls.

Early Bird strives to provide a breakfast experience filled with positive memories from start to finish. As a staple breakfast cuisine, Brigman said pancakes are a food for the people, and Early Bird’s fresh take on hotcakes leaves people coming back for more. “If there’s any meal you don’t have to feel bad about, it’s breakfast,” he said. “We want people to remember how much fun breakfast can be and have a fun time dining here.” Brigman said pancake batter is “a blank canvas” and is a way to experiment with an easy recipe and reminisce about childhood.

Keeping it old fashioned, Harold’s Koffee House in Florence focuses on delivering simple and fluffy plate-sized pancakes. Going strong since 1958, Harold Halstead and his family created the 1950s-themed diner with one goal in mind: to be the go-to neighborhood café.

With a family recipe that has been around for decades, Owner Matt Bohnenkamp has taken his grandfather’s specialty by 28 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Interior of Jojo’s Diner

DINENE BRASK A .COM 29

DINE DISCOVER

Pancakes at Early Bird

30 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Blueberry pancakes at Early Bird

Cinnamon roll pancakes at Early Bird DINENE BRASK A .COM 31

DINE DISCOVER

Early Bird General Manager Ben Brigman

Pancakes and sides at Early Bird

32 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

storm to serve the community one smile at a time.

Before Bohnenkamp was owner, he felt pancakes weren’t being treated as a priority at the Koffee House. Knowing pancakes have a “wow” factor, Bohnenkamp began experimenting in the kitchen to create large, fluffy pancakes. Instead of creating a highly decorated breakfast dessert, Harold’s Koffee House specializes in its homemade buttermilk “fluffy cakes.” With a recipe centered around taste and smell, the restaurant’s thick pancake mix makes for a classic breakfast filled with fluffiness.

For pancake-loving people, Bohnenkamp said Harold’s Koffee House is a traditional breakfast spot with a homey, neighborhood vibe. Alongside a staff that has been with the restaurant for over 40 years, Harold’s Koffee House promotes a culture centered around community, sharing, and creating authentic relationships.

“It’s the syrup on the pancake!” Bohnenkamp said. “You’re a name, not a number. That’s what we’re about.”

How does one find their mojo? Easy – take a trip down to Jojo’s. Nestled in the heart of Benson, Jojo’s Diner is far from your average eating establishment. With a modern take on a traditional diner, Jojo’s dishes up anything from horchata pancakes and hippie toast to chicken sandies and barbacoa grilled cheese. Combined with bananas, brown sugar, and made-fromscratch horchata, this concoction takes the place of syrup, coating cinnamon caramelized bananas atop three colossal cakes with a syrupy horchata glaze.

With an attention-grabbing creation as unmatched as this, Jojo’s strives for uniqueness and offers plenty of specialty

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DINE DISCOVER

Specials at Early Bird

On the griddle

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Cereal killer pancakes at Early Bird DINENE BRASK A .COM 35

Sweet cream pecan pancakes at Harold’s Koffee House

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Fluffy cakes at Harold’s Koffee House

Serving guests at Harold’s Koffee House

DINENE BRASK A .COM 37

DINE DISCOVER

Interior of Harold’s Koffee House

pancakes in place of desserts. Because these are a high-selling menu item, Head Chef Tim Glazeski wanted to go beyond serving basic breakfast foods such as waffles and French toast. Glazeski develops all recipes and finds inspiration through trial and error. Offering up exclusive menu items, Jojo’s Diner strives to dish up both staple diner items and homemade Latin American-influenced food.

Since 2019, Jojo’s has received nothing but support from local businesses and has continued to create new friendships and build its diner. Jojo’s plans to open a second location and add more offerings to its current menu. “We’re not trying to be a mediocre kind of place; we want to be a place you can be impressed with,” Glazeski said. “It’s worth coming back to try all the different things we offer.”

Whether pairing with a salty slab of ham, an early morning coffee, or a simple side of scrambled eggs, it’s safe to say that breakfast would be incomplete without a stack of these iconic griddle cakes. While some may see pancakes as an essential early morning meal item, others view these flat cakes as a work of art and enjoy experimenting with various patterns on the griddle. Pancakes continue to play a vital role as part of breakfast and carry nostalgia from the batter being poured to the very first bite of sweetness that hits the tongue.

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Harold’s Koffee House Owner Matt Bohnenkamp DINENE BRASK A .COM 39

Executive Chef/ General Manager Brian Reilly

40 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

DINE EXPERT

BRIAN REILLY, Executive Chef/General Manager at Spezia, pursues excellence

Adjusting to change and raising the bar Executive Chef and General Manager Brian Reilly began working at Spezia in Omaha in 2003. He took the culinary knowledge he began in a high school work study program, and later culinary education, to eventually lead multiple business locations. He returned to the 72nd Street establishment where he leads today.

“I want to put out the best thing I can,” Reilly said. “If you get a filet here, I want it to be the best filet that I know how to make. The grade that we do is top-tier of choice so when you pair it with our wood-fired grill, the results are outstanding. I feel like we’ve met a lot of standards and raised the bar.”

Spezia offers customers traditional Italian cuisine, from steak to fresh seafood, salmon, scallops, chicken, pasta, libations, and a timeless ambience.

Service expectations are high. Wait staff learns the food and drink menus, provides wine-to-food pairings, and is mindful of a prime experience.

The restaurant serves a variety of customers. “If you want to come in and have a bowl of soup and a spaghetti dinner that’s great,” Reilly said. “And if you want to spend $100 on a bottle of wine and a $50 filet, you can do that, too.

It’s what you want to make it.”

The location can accommodate various patrons and groups, from business professionals, to travelers passing through Omaha, to groups celebrating special occasion experiences (like Reilly’s own rehearsal dinner). There is even a “romance booth” that can be made private with a close of its curtains.

The menu has stayed generally the same for decades, with the exception of seasonal menus that are run as features.

Reilly pays close attention to patrons’ food allergies and what people are returning for, like his weekly regulars. Servers know their order and table of choice by heart.

Recognizing that people are looking for a different dining experience than they were two years ago, Spezia offers meals togo with advice on bringing the technique home.

“A lot of stuff we have travels really well,” Reilly said. “Risotto, pasta, and noodle dishes hold up. What surprises me is how many steaks go out in boxes.

If you usually order medium go medium rare and by the time you get home it will be right where you want it. We like to lower our lights a little bit and light a few candles. It sets a little ambience. Replate at home. You don’t have to eat it out of the box.”

The restaurant faced hardship in 2020, closing for two months. Reilly spent a lot of time hoping for the reopening and educating himself and staff on safe practices, ensuring guests’ safety, and remaining classic.

He cared for, and still does care for, his staff and his community. When the first wave of the pandemic hit, he sent his workers and neighbors to the restaurant to clear out food that would spoil without being used.

Reilly understands the importance of staying organized and values consistency

STORY BY MEGAN KEYSER PHOTO BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY BRIAN REILLY’S

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SPEZIA 3125 S 72nd St. (402) 391-2950 speziarestaurant.com/spezia/omaha as he leads the operations amidst distribution obstacles, an example being lengthy delivery windows.

Today, Reilly welcomes the idea of new staff additions, encouraging high school students seeking a part time job to apply.

He also prides his team on having a mix of professional servers who work and will work in the industry as their career of choice.

Reilly is setting an example of adjusting to market changes. “We’re paying a little bit more to our workers and for our products and we’re definitely working harder and producing a lot more products.”

Reilly and the team at Spezia face challenges every day and continue to serve patrons through what is the most business they’ve seen in a long time. He reminds people, “We have to adapt. We’re doing the best we can with everything that’s been thrown at us. Be kind to your service people.”

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CRAFTED IN TRADITION Small batch vinegary GEORGE PAUL VINEGAR relies on art and science STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS BY DANA DAMEWOOD & PHIL MAYHEW

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S

ome wouldn’t expect to find incredible artisanal, aged balsamic vinegar in a tiny town in Western Nebraska, but in the Cherry County village of Cody (pop. 200), George Paul Vinegar (GPV) stands, unassuming and delightful.

From the moment visitors arrive, they are treated to the kind of hospitality found only in a small town.

In 1999, former cattle rancher George Johnson and his wife Karen decided to grow grapes in his yard in hopes of making wine. After tasting a bit of surplus wine, a family friend wondered aloud if it would make excellent balsamic vinegar (turns out the unique Sandhills climate is ideal for eking the essential fruit flavor out of grapes), which led the family to try their hand at vinegar making.

Johnson honed his technique over the years, but knew immediately that he wanted to explore traditional, time-tested techniques. All vinegars start by

fermenting fruit juice, which converts natural sugars into alcohol (in other words…wine). Natural acetobacters feed on this alcohol, resulting in acetic acid, and bits of cellulose start to appear.

This is often referred to as “the mother.”

Letting this process unfold naturally takes time—between two and eight years for Johnson’s vinegars—but that patience pays off in clean, pure flavors sans the usual sour notes found in mass-produced vinegars.

Eventually, Johnson decided to turn his hobby into a business, but lacked

Owner George Johnson and daughter Emily Johnson DINENE BRASK A .COM 43

DINE SUPPLIER sufficient space and equipment to produce quality vinegar on a larger scale. Rather than erect a metal building, he decided to employ a centuries-old tradition of energy-efficient straw bale construction.

During the second half of 2007, friends and family helped build the structure, often working solely for the experience and a couple of beers. The vinegary is beautiful, glowing in stunning Western Nebraska sunsets surrounded by Master Gardener Karen’s lush gardens.

The company has never advertised, relying solely on word of mouth and good old-fashioned salesmanship. In the early days, Johnson hand-carried vinegar around the state, meeting with chefs and introducing them to his wares. Culinary professionals began to take notice, and on more than one occasion the extended Johnson family hosted groups at their own homes for tours, tastings, and small-town kindness.

One such visit involved a group of chef instructors from The Institute for the Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College. Johnson fondly recalled the group arriving in a full-blown snowstorm, carefully navigating the snowpacked road in two vans. Karen whipped up a home-cooked meal, and the group spent a famously enjoyable evening eating, learning, and swapping tall tales.

In 2018, the vinegary’s stellar Apple Cider vinegar offering caught the eye of high-end haircare company dpHUE, who today commissions gallons of it for use in their wildly popular ACV Hair Rinse.

Recently the company has also requested a consumable beverage comprising unfiltered apple cider vinegar, lemon, and cayenne, all sourced, blended and packaged by GPV. Since opening, Johnson has counted notable Omaha eateries V. Mertz, Sage Student Bistro, La Buvette Wine & Grocery, and Dolce as regular customers, but during the pandemic, the Johnson’s wholesale business dipped as many restaurants closed or switched to more casual carry-out menus.

Retail business was the silver lining in the pandemic, as home cooks went in search of different or unique items to stave off boredom in their own kitchens.

Today, George Paul Vinegars line shelves at Whole Foods and Hy-Vee stores, as well as myriad boutiques and delis across all 50 states.

The most famous of the vinegars 44 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Emily Johnson at vintage letterpress

American Oak barrels

Wa r m u p t h i s wi n t e r at M a h o g a n y P r i m e S t e a k h o u s e wi t h o u r

New Seasonal Cocktails C r a f t e d t o pa i r p e r f e c t ly wi t h o u r prime steaks an d seafood

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made at GPV is the Modena-style aged Balsamic, which takes up to eight years to fully mature. The precious liquid is first aged in American Oak barrels, then mingled with various wooden staves in stainless steel tanks, concentrating both flavor and aroma. It is the namesake of Johnson’s daughter Emily, who is also responsible for the gorgeous labels that are carefully created on a vintage letterpress.

Small batch Apple Cider vinegar is made from Nebraska apples, presenting as crisp, sweet, and abundantly clean. The Johnsons like to recommend its use in everything from pie crusts to vinaigrettes.

The white wine vinegars are named after their grapes: Prairie White, Edelweiss, and Brianna. Prairie Red and Temparia grapes provide extra depth to the red wine vinegars, and the limited quantity raspberry vinegar is incredible over vanilla ice cream. Every offering is made from local fruit, and just like in Willy Wonka, the apples taste like apples, and the berries like berries.

Peruse GPV’s website or follow their social media channels for heartwarming stories and delicious recipe ideas. With a bit of advance notice, Johnson is thrilled to accept visitors for a tour and tasting, regaling them with amusing anecdotes alongside fascinating information about the vinegary and process. When most folks his age would be reveling in retirement, he finds himself working more than ever, “Getting to meet people is why I love this business.”

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Johnson working with vinegars

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1022 Howard St. Omaha, NE 68102 (402) 345-8980 www.vmertz.com

restaurant and wine bar Tuesday - Sunday, open for dinner at 5:30 p.m.

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Open Kitchen Workshops deliver hands-on culinary instruction from chefs to cooks from all walks.

To learn more, visit mccneb.edu/openkitchen.

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INSTITUTE FOR THE CULINARY ARTS Metropolitan Community College affirms a policy of equal education, employment opportunities and nondiscrimination in providing services to the public. We are committed to ensuring our websites and facilities are accessible and usable to everyone. To read our full policy statement, visit mccneb.edu/nondiscrimination.

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