Dine Magazine Fall 2019

BRAISING WITH UPSTREAM BREWING PROOF • BEAUJOLAIS WINE • BRICKWAY EXPERT ADVICE OF CHEF PAUL KULIK

Elevating the Nebraska dining experience

Delight in the imagination of Kano

FALL 2019

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DINENE B RASKA . CO M 1

Elevating the Nebraska dining experience VOLUME 1, ISSUE 1 FALL 2019

PUBLISHER AND OWNER Carole Sprunk (402) 587-2259 // Carole@DineNebraska.com MANAGING EDITOR Kathy Rygg (402) 490-3213 // Kathy@DineNebraska.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Anna Hartman, Michael Meyer and Vera Lynn Petersen DESIGNERS Quentin Lueninghoener and Ben Vankat, Hanscom Park Studio (402) 517-1228 // Contact@HanscomPark.com PHOTO STAFF Christopher Tierney Photography (402) 350-5699 Admiral District Photography (402) 490-3083 BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Melissa Minassian (402) 490-3799 // Melissa@DineNebraska.com

CONTACT US (402) 587-2259 Carole@ DineNebraska.com PO Box 620 Elkhorn, NE 68022

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Tom Patton (402) 214-5070 // Tom@DineNebraska.com ADVISORY BOARD Brian O’Malley, Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts Matthew Brown, Advanced Sommelier, V. Mertz

DINE is published quarterly. Content copyright © 2019 DINE Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, without permission in writing from the publisher, Carole Sprunk. Although care has been taken to ensure the accuracy, completeness and reliability of the information provided, DINE assumes no responsibility therefore.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DINE Magazine, PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022 2 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

Table of Contents AGED BEEF, RAMEN, AND VEGANS

PLUM CREEK FARMS

CHEF PAUL KULIK

6

8

20

Dear DINE

The gold standard of suppliers

The hospitable philosopher

CHEF KANE ADKISSON

BRICKWAY, RUM, AND BEAUJOLAIS

CHEF JEFF EVERROAD

22 The taste of imagination

32 Wine, spirits, and beer

38 The decadence of braising DINENE B RASKA . CO M 3

Letter from the publisher Welcome to the premier issue of Dine Magazine, Omaha’s newest food and beverage publication! Our upscale approach to the industry through print will leave you hungry for more. On a quarterly basis, you can find us “Elevating the Nebraska dining experience.” From the minute you pick up a copy of Dine, you can feel the quality of the magazine. You can also see the quality through its high-end photography within the full-color, glossy pages combined with its professionally-written, locally-inspired stories.

In each issue of Dine, readers can learn about a variety of beverages, suppliers to the industry, the food scene in Omaha, new cooking techniques, and even have their questions answered through our “Dear DINE” section. In this issue, you’ll discover the art of braising—a perfect fall dish, go behind the scenes with Plum Creek Farms, experience Chef Kane Adkisson’s pop-up dinners, find out what inspires Chef Paul Kulik, and get inside expertise from local wine, beer, and spirit enthusiasts.

Dine is the second print magazine under Edge Publishing, which also produces Edge Magazine, West Omaha’s Premier Lifestyle publication. This month, Edge Magazine is celebrating six years strong. We publish bi-monthly yet have always felt that there could be more focus on the food and beverage scene. Finally, we are bringing that idea to life through Dine Magazine.

This publication wouldn’t be possible without the amazing work of our writers, designers, photographers, staff and advertising partners. From the bottom of my heart, thank you so very much!

As always, we love to hear from our readers! Please reach out to us with ideas, questions, or thoughts.

Carole Sprunk Publisher

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DEAR DINE

DEAR DINE: What is dry-aged beef?

The meat is hung to dry in a temperature and humidity controlled cooler that promotes safe bacteria growth that isn’t harmful.

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In an effort to help elevate the Nebraska Dining experience, we answer the questions you’ve always wanted to ask while dining out.

Dear DINE Dear DINE I’m surprised at how pricey ramen is in restaurants compared to buying it from the grocery store. Why the mark up?

– Angela S. Dear Angela, Many different types of restaurant dishes can fall into this cost confusion category. Aagya Subedi, chef & owner of Aagya’s Burmese Ramen, explained that the price of restaurant ramen reflects the labor and quality of ingredients used. I know you are thinking, “How could noodles be expensive when they are mostly made of eggs and flour?” The labor that goes into fresh noodles involves time to make the dough, let the dough rest, roll the dough, then either cut the noodles by hand or feed sheets of pasta one by one through a pasta cutter. The other side of this would be the cost of ingredients that go into each bowl, as bowls of ramen easily involve 30-40 ingredients. The depth of flavor in these dishes is much more elevated than that little seasoning packet from the store, so I urge you to go try a savory bowl at any of Omaha’s ramen shops!

Dear DINE, My sister-in-law is coming to visit me this fall and she is vegan. What suggestions do you have for restaurants?

– Christina B. Dear Christina, The perfect vegan day in Omaha should include breakfast at Omaha’s vegan coffee parlor, Amateur Coffee, which offers oat milk lattes, vegan pastries, and made-to-order gluten-free waffles or chia seed pudding. A new vegan lunch spot, Fauxmaha, serves loaded vegan hot dogs, a variety of sandwiches, and sides of tots with vegan ranch.

Dinner in the beautiful dining room of Modern Love is a breathtaking experience in itself, and its exclusively vegan menu is well-loved by vegans and meat-lovers alike. You must try the nachos molo, fried mozzarella, mac and shews, and strawberry shake. In general, Omaha’s restaurant scene has grown to include many vegan options on their regular menus, in which I would also suggest exploring Oasis Falafel, Blue Sushi, Benson Brewery’s seitan wings, or the vegan arepa from The Hunger Block.

Dear DINE, What is dry-aged beef? I see a few restaurants serving aged meats, but I don’t know what it means.

– Doug W.

The cost of restaurant ramen may be more than in grocery stores, but it’s worth it for the quality and flavor you enjoy.

Dear Doug, We reached out to Drew Statz, the Executive Chef of Monarch Prime & Bar downtown. Chef Statz explained that dry-aging meat helps enhance the natural flavor of the meat through water loss and transformation of the fat. The meat is hung to dry in a temperature and humidity controlled cooler that promotes safe bacteria growth that isn’t harmful. This process can take anywhere from a few weeks to several months, depending on the water loss goal, desired firmness, and how quickly the meat can breakdown its own collagen. While aging, the safe bacteria creates a shell on the outside of the meat, which is later discarded when preparing the meat to be served.

Monarch typically ages its beef loin used for steaks for 30-45 days until the outside of the meat turns into a dark brown, almost purple color, and the inside turns a deep maroon. Chef Statz described the aged beef as having the fragrance of beef jerky with bleu cheese. For as intimidating as this process might sound, you will never know the rich flavors of dry-aged beef until you try it!

HAVE A RESTAURANTRELATED QUESTION? Email Dine Magazine and we’ll answer in an upcoming issue!

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 7

DINE SOURCE

PLUM CREEK FARMS 60687 712 Rd., Burchard (402) 696-4535 plumcreekfarmsinc.com

O

utside the community of Burchard, Nebraska, lies the family operation of Plum Creek Farms, a local chicken distributor started by Dean and Amy Dvorak that is considered by many in the restaurant industry to be the gold standard for suppliers.

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Story by VERA LYNN PETERSEN

Photos by CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

Plum Creek Farms is where farm-to-table starts DINENE B RASKA . CO M 9

DINE SOURCE

DEAN DVORAK 10 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

Their humble farming adventure began in 2001 with a small herd of cattle and sheep. In 2003, they came across the need for a free-range egg supplier to local restaurants and grocery stores around the Omaha and Lincoln area. As their operation grew, it was apparent that their customers were in even greater need of a supplier for local free-range chicken meat. Dean pursued this need by letting go of his cattle and sheep, and began his journey of butchering 30-40 chickens a week, which was barely enough to keep up with demand.

The butchering operation far exceeded egg production needs, resulting in a remodel of the farm in 2005 to allow for more room for the free-range broilers. As the years went by and the Dvorak children grew up, Dean and Amy were able to hire their son-in-law, Logan Barr, in 2011. Soon after, they also hired their daughter, Cara Jasa, and son, Patrick Dvorak, to keep up with the expanding duties of the farm.

In 2018, Dean and Amy converted Plum Creek Farms into a distribution company. They moved out of their house on the farm property and turned more of the day-to-day operations over to their hired family. This decision gave Barr and his wife, Olivia, the opportunity to move into the house on the farm and take over the egg distribution while further helping with production of the poultry.

From day-old chicks to broilers waiting for butchery, Plum Creek Farms currently raises close to 10,000 birds at one time. A majority of the chickens are Cornish Cross Broilers. Unlike many larger operations that limit their chickens to living belly to belly, Plum Creek Farms’ mission is to give its chickens as much light and space to run around as needed. With this freedom of space, Plum Creek Farms found its chickens need an additional 11 days to finish growing before they are ready to be butchered at 53-days-old. Even at processing time, the chickens are lighter weight than many of the national producers.

Dean’s week usually begins at 4:30 a.m. each Monday when it is time to catch the chickens for that week’s orders. The birds are then prepared and hung overnight in an air cooler held at 33 degrees. Tuesday is their packaging day where the birds are fabricated into the exact pieces as ordered.

Wednesday is reserved for making all of their deliveries in Omaha and Lincoln, while the rest of the week is used for

Plum Creek Farms believes in the necessity of providing its poultry with a grain-based vegetarian diet, free of antibiotics and hormones. This highquality feed and the access to the outdoors creates the perfect environment for its chickens to produce the meat that sets Plum Creek Farms apart.

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 11

DINE SOURCE

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“I am very thankful for everything Omaha has done for us.

People have been very kind, staying with us and giving us a chance.”

DEAN DVORAK

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DINE SOURCE

“Most of all, I want to focus on slowly expanding, but not too much more as I want to continue keeping a good reputation.”

DEAN DVORAK

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cleaning out buildings and taking the following week’s orders.

Customers of Plum Creek Farms include about 50 restaurants and grocery stores, and another couple hundred individual accounts. One of the largest accounts is The Institute for Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College. The school teaches its students the significance in working with such fine product.

Plum Creek Farms believes in the necessity of providing its poultry with a grain-based vegetarian diet, free of antibiotics and hormones. This highquality feed and the access to the outdoors creates the perfect environment for its chickens to produce the meat that sets Plum Creek Farms apart.

In contemplating the farm’s future, Dean wants to be able to offer more grassfed beef along with rabbits and ducks in the next year. He imagines someday soon they will be able to hatch their own chicks rather than ordering day-old chicks. “Most of all, I want to focus on slowly expanding, but not too much more

as I want to continue keeping a good reputation,” he said. “I don’t want to hold on to everything myself, and I am willing to work with my children, as ownership is good for them and their families.”

Dean also has a pure love for the country. “I love living out of town and how quiet it is compared to the hum of the city,” he said. “The farm smells better than the city, except for the cow pasture on rainy days. I am very thankful for everything Omaha has done for us.

People have been very kind, staying with us and giving us a chance. The birds are not always consistent, so we can’t always supply our customers perfectly when certain cuts of meat are unavailable.”

This flexibility has created high respect for both their customers and their farm to continue working together, bringing the fulfillment of community full circle.

Dean’s customers choose to work with him, because they trust him and love his product, and Dean has the pleasure to work with his family, doing exactly what he loves.

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DINE SOURCE

“The farm smells better than the city.”

DEAN DVORAK

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Logan Barr

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 19

DINE EXPERT

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With an increasingly sophisticated and experienced dining public, CHEF PAUL KULIK says it’s all about passion

The hospitable philosopher At Le Boullion’s beautiful dark wood bar on a Friday afternoon, I sat down with Chef Paul Kulik to discover what was piquing his interest as of late. He had just returned from a family visit to his birthplace of Berlin. When I casually asked about the food scene there, Kulik replied, “Everybody everywhere is curious about food. It’s no longer extraneous, just something we do to nourish our bodies.” This statement proved an excellent meta question for our greater conversation: what takes a meal from animalistic satiation to a harmonious conversation between creator and consumer that feeds and expands both bodies and minds?

Given that we are at peak restaurant saturation nationwide, diners are in the driver’s seat more than ever, which puts the onus on the creators of the dining experience to delight and engage diners from entry to exit. “You have to be a ‘passionate fool’ to be in this industry,” said Kulik. “When you open the doors, you don’t know if anyone is going to come or who those people might be.” Kulik postulates that dining experiences are influenced by both a priori and posteriori knowledge—everyone comes in to an experience with inherent knowledge independent of specific experiences and leaves with enhanced knowledge based on the experience itself.

Food and food experiences are fleeting, so how can establishments make their mark with such brief moments to influence and educate a diner? By creating a feeling, a moment in time—something that cannot be recreated exactly (though consistency in preparation is important) but sparks interest in curious guests, encouraging them to return for continued conversation.

Restaurants are often an expression of a community’s culture, and the public often feels a sense of ownership over the meal that extends past the establishment to the ingredient purveyors. But the real joy of

a meal comes from surrender, in which diners trust that everyone involved in both front and back-of-house is keen to take them on an enticing journey of taste and discovery.

For example, unfamiliar words on a menu draw guests in, and servers must convey appropriately through genuine and enthusiastic description the dish that the kitchen is crafting. Chef Kulik likens an intriguing dish to trompe-l’oeil—it can at first appear pedestrian, but through visual, olfactory, and finally gustatory senses, the complexity of the creation is revealed.

Conversely, diners’ experiences are lessened when there is a gap between what the chef is trying to convey and the diner’s actual experience. It is incumbent on the staff to bridge that gap.

Trends in food and service change, but hospitality—how the delivery of a quality product makes its recipient feel—never goes out of style. The industry should endeavor to both educate and intrigue guests so they are comfortable both revisiting places they love and challenging themselves with new experiences.

Ultimately, diners are best served when restaurant communities work with each other to create destinations worthy of exploration.

PAUL’S PA S S I O N S

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DINE SCENE

The taste of

IMAGINATION

Shio koji wagyu with wasabi and an egg yolk tamari sauce

E

STORY BY VERA LYNN PETERSEN PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY 22 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

xperiencing a Kano pop-up dinner series is like taking an adventure through pure imagination. Tickets only show how many courses will be served, and the menu is a complete surprise. This tasting menu strategy forces diners to give all control over to Chef Kane Adkisson, allowing the counter space between them to be the foundation of trust for that night’s journey.

Adkisson’s culinary background began with attending The Institute for Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College and working downtown at The Boiler

Room. He later traveled the globe to gain further experience at several restaurants carrying Michelin Stars, including Maaemo in Oslo, Norway, both Saison and Coi in San Francisco, and RyuGin in Tokyo, Japan. The knowledge he gained set the tone for the concept of Kano, involving brushstrokes of French technique mixed with the influence of Japanese cuisine, all while emphasizing live fire cookery.

In 2016, he began his concept for Kano in San Francisco and soon realized the importance of his connection to Midwestern foods. For some of his first pop-ups, he shipped a few ingredients from Nebraska to California, such as

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 23

DINE SCENE

CHEF KANE ADKISSON 24 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

Shadow Brook Farm’s “Natalie in Grey” chèvre and Morgan Ranch’s reserve ribeyes. The support from his Omaha community was astounding. Even Chef Tim Nicholson donated beef in a GoFundMe fundraiser for the first Kano dinner. As support continued, Adkisson felt a tug to come back home.

His family, including his two brothers Kye and Collin, were his biggest supporters in getting their hands messy while working alongside him in the kitchen.

His experience in San Francisco was not taken for granted, as it allowed him to meet French ceramicist, Carole Neilson, who inspired and created his current plating. This pairing of plates with the elegance of each course beautifully leads each guest through Adkisson’s imagination. Another inspirational connection he made was with a coffee expert, Ian McCarthy, who helped Adkisson with campfire-style coffee at tableside during his first few pop-ups in San Francisco. This is the same coffee currently handed out as a favor at the end of each dinner service.

Every Kano pop-up in Omaha has been hosted at either Yoshitomo or Archetype’s downtown location. Tickets are announced monthly on Kano’s social media sites and can then be purchased online. When purchasing tickets, there is an option to add on a wine pairing service by sommelier Jeffrey Koster, which should be highly encouraged as it perfectly enhances every course.

Dinner begins with a complimentary cocktail themed for the night, then progresses with a few small bites reflecting ingredients that are in season. The courses grow to be more substantial and showcase high quality meats and produce. One of the most beautiful courses served had a woven lattice of thinly sliced asparagus. Each flavor profile is unique as Adkisson

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DINE SCENE

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DINE SCENE

DINE Magazine and Chef Adkisson

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explained that bitter is a flavor people may find intimidating, but it is a flavor that comes with sensation. There is no need for worry as after all of the savory, there are several courses to satisfy any sweet tooth.

Most of the courses served will not make a reappearance, but there are a few that are “too good” to leave out of repetition, such as the pomme soufflé bite of puffed potato filled with smoked paddle-fish (a play on fish and chips), the beloved cornflake bite consisting of milk inside of a cornflake shell, and his mother’s savory dinner rolls.

Adkisson has been searching for a permanent home for Kano. He wants this space to have a wood oven and a hearth as this is key to providing him a variety of ways to cook with fire, such as using the coals for heating, hanging ingredients to smoke, and for use with dehydration.

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being able to personally share the story of each course, not through a wait staff, but through chef interaction at a counter that seats 20-25 people. It would be the one tasting menu-only restaurant in Omaha, but he enjoys the thought of people being asked just two questions, “Would you like the wine pairing?” and “Do you want sparkling or still water?”

It is easy for the Midwest to be known for steak and potatoes, but stepping outside of the box and trying new things allows for talent in our community to shine. For how to support Adkisson’s dream, he said, “As much as I would love to have you eat my food every single night, the other fine dining chefs are pushing the envelope too, and we thrive off of each other. Concepts like mine do not work without their concepts too.

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DINE WINE

We take a look at a special region of France with VINO MAS manager Deanna Albertson

Giving thanks for Beaujolais Next month there are two wonderful opportunities to explore and enjoy a glass or two of something new: Beaujolais Nouveau Day and Thanksgiving Day. Deanna Albertson, manager of Vino Mas, is passionate about wine.

This led her to pursue and achieve both Sommelier Level 1 and Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) certifications, but ultimately, she just wants to help people enjoy wine. We asked her to tell us all about Beaujolais.

Paris

She explained that France does not label grape varietals, it labels areas.

Burgundy, for example, is an area in which primarily chardonnay and pinot noir grapes become delightful red and white burgundies. Beaujolais is not a grape, it is a very small area in eastern France, just south of Burgundy, in which only gamay grapes are grown. Gamay grapes are thin skinned with low tannin, providing tasting notes that include pomegranate, blackberry bramble, violet, or potting soil. The Beaujolais region features three areas: one in which most of the grapes are used for Beaujolais Nouveau, another for Beaujolais Villages with granite and schist terroir increasing complexity, and the area north of the river, comprising 10 Crus, each with slightly different terroir and talented producers who work to coax unique flavors and aromas out of the single grape varietal.

Beaujolais Nouveau Day is the third Thursday of November, just a week before

Thanksgiving. The Beaujolais released on this day is fresh, fruity, and unaged, best enjoyed slightly chilled and within a year—serendipitous because it pairs beautifully with traditional Thanksgiving dishes. Menus include a variety of dishes featuring root vegetables, cranberries, and spice, which are not overwhelmed, but well-highlighted by the low tannin and acidity in a Beaujolais Nouveau. Anything you’d pair with a Pinot Noir on this day will go equally well, if not better, with this wine.

If you want to truly broaden your Beaujolais palate, explore wine from the Crus—all presenting with a more complex, dusty taste profile but remaining quite food-friendly and pairing well with light, spicy, fruity flavors.

In the world of wine, the more you learn, the less you know, so take a visit to Vino Mas soon for a class, a tasting, or just peruse the selection and try something new.

Beaujolais region Lyon

FRANCE

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN DINENE B RASKA . CO M 33

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DINE SPIRITS

Rums are on order this fall according to PROOF WHISKEY BAR’S Joel Lavelle

The spirit of cocktails What’s new in the world of craft cocktails? After enjoying wide popularity in the form of speakeasies and leather-bedecked hotel bars, there is a trend away from conspicuous consumption of expensive limited-edition spirits and toward simple, flavorful cocktails that accentuate a quality base spirit with local, fresh ingredients. Bartenders are crafting their own syrups, squeezing fresh juice, and experimenting with creative flavor combinations, presentations and showcasing unique, local brands that allow patrons to expand their horizons and promote local small business.

Joel Lavelle of Omaha’s Proof Whiskey Bar suggests the best way to ease into a new flavor profile is to sample a new spirit in a cocktail. Bourbon is versatile and easily paired with a smorgasbord of flavors, its spicy notes perfect with cozy flavors of fall.

According to Lavelle, rum is on the cusp of becoming the next big thing.

A quality Blanco rum can be produced in about a year, with complex Anejo distillations ready in as little as 3-5 years.

Proof offers classic Blanco rum cocktails, including the Mai Tai, and my personal favorite, the refreshing Hemingway Daiquiri. Both cocktails rely on a solid base highlighted by quality ingredients offered at the height of seasonality, and thus are not found on the menu yearround.

Spirits distilled in the United States are a distinctive manifestation of tradition, heritage and quality. Locally, you can find

several ambitious producers of interesting spirits. Brickway’s award-winning Libertas Colonial Rum draws you in from the first sip, needing no accompaniment, but singing when paired with smoky grilled pineapple and a splash of soda.

Both Brickway and Cut Spike distill exceptional single malt whisky, and if you want to venture a bit farther afield, Lavelle mentioned an outstanding Barrel Strength Rye produced by family-owned Union Horse in Lenexa, KS. Good cocktails do not have to break the bank. Choose quality over quantity and keep combinations simple—the best creations are approachable, delicious and feature a maximum of five simple, elegant, honest ingredients, allowing each to shine. Stop in to a local establishment and get to know the bartenders—part of the experience is watching them excel at their craft, educating and entertaining while delighting your palate.

Classic Mai Tai

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN DINENE B RASKA . CO M 35

Brickway’s Imperial IPA

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DINE BEER

Autumn weather calls for darker and boozier brews made by BRICKWAY BREWERY AND DISTILLERY president Zac Triemert

Fall in love with beer In an era where craft beer is experiencing a huge explosion, what is the key formula to success? For Zac Triemert, president, head brewer and distiller of Brickway Brewery and Distillery, it all starts with the combination of passion and science. It is about the emotion that each person experiences in the beers you create that ignites your inspirational flame.

Since 2013, Brickway has been creating beers that inspire not only the people of Omaha but throughout the heartland.

When asked about what it takes to make great beer, Triemert responded, “It is all about balance.”

If you look at the portfolio of beers that Brickway has, this is fundamental from their Pilsner to the Imperial IPA—Raja Gaj. Balance lies in making sure that our senses of sweetness, saltiness, sourness, and bitterness are cohesively engaged in the beer we are drinking. For example, Raja Gaj has a huge amount of hop flavor without an extreme amount of bitterness.

Great care goes into fine-tuning the craft beer recipes to make this happen!

One of my all-time favorites, and Brickway’s current top-seller, is the Coffee Vanilla Stout. This stout gives you the bold coffee flavor blended with the sweetness of chocolate and vanilla. The beer has a wonderful smooth finish that rounds it out.

Each style of beer can have many technical challenges in order to go from good to great. This is where Triemert’s microbiologist background is a huge advantage. So what is his favorite beer to make? Wild Olivia Sour Ale. “There was a tremendous amount of research and development for this one,” he said.

“We had made several versions using the same base of our Hef and Drone Fleur Belgian Tripel aged in whisky barrels for a year. Each barrel had different microorganisms that create the sour flavor. After evaluating many different combinations, we chose the one that now is being bottled.”

This time of year, beyond the normal lineup of beers, Brickway has its Marzenstyled Oktoberfest and Drone Fleur Belgin Tripel. There is never a better time than now to check out Brickway Brewery and Distillery in Omaha’s Old Market.

Cheers!

Brickway’s Sour Ale

STORY BY MICHAEL MEYER DINENE B RASKA . CO M 37

DINE DISCOVER

With a chill in the air, fall is the perfect time to brush up on the comforts of braising

B

raising is the epitome of cozy decadence—all it takes is one pot, a main ingredient, aromatics, liquid, and a little patience to get amazing depth of flavor. This cooking method starts hot but then mellows with a low-and-slow shallow bath in flavorful liquid, which conducts heat better than the dry air of roasting, resulting in a delicious meal fit for any night of the week.

Tough cuts of meat from well-exercised parts of an animal, or those with lots of connective tissue, are well-suited to a braise, with bonus points awarded for bone-in.

Time and heat break down collagen, which both tenderizes the meat and creates a rich, hearty broth with a silky texture. You can also braise delicious fish, chicken, and vegetables by simply reducing the cooking time. Mirepoix is a fancy French word for an aromatic combo of onions, carrots, and celery in a 2:1:1 ratio, but you can use anything including peppers, celery root, fennel, leek, garlic, or peppercorns. Beer and wine make excellent braising liquid, but again you can use any liquid including stock, fruit and vegetable juice, or milk.

Once you have chosen a main ingredient, dry it thoroughly on all sides (moist ingredients do not sear well) and salt heavily.

Grab a heavy, lidded pot such as a Dutch oven, place over medium-high heat, and swirl in a small amount of fat that has a 38 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

UPSTREAM BREWING 514 S 11th St., Omaha (402) 344-0200 upstreambrewing.com

Story by ANNA HARTMAN Photos by ADMIRAL DISTRICT

THE DECADENCE OF BRAISING DINENE B RASKA . CO M 39

DINE DISCOVER

CHEF JEFF EVERROAD 40 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

Upsteam creates its pot roast using the bottom flat cut from a beef round.

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 41

DINE DISCOVER

Roasts are seared fat-side down, turning to ensure a solid crust on all sides, and finally returning to the fat side.

42 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

Upstream’s braising liquid made with Dundee Scotch Ale and beef stock.

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 43

DINE DISCOVER

44 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

Upstream’s braised beef cheeks with Spanish rice, corn tortillas, braised kale, and a tomatillo crema.

MIDWEST FOOD STORIES

high smoke point (extra virgin olive oil is not your friend here). When that fat is shimmering but not smoking, use a pair of long-handled tongs to sear the meat or hearty vegetable on all sides in batches to avoid steaming. Be patient with this step and curtail the urge to check and flip. Your eyes, nose, and ears will tell you when it is ready to turn—well-seared ingredients release easily from the pan.

Remove the seared meat and toss in your aromatics of choice to sweat in the fat rendered from the meat. Keeping the heat medium-high, add a small amount of braising liquid to deglaze the pan (deglazing simply uses liquid to easily detach the tasty bits from the bottom of the pan, ensuring retention of flavor).

Return the main item to the pot and add additional liquid, leaving about onefourth of the meat or vegetable uncovered (this is a braise, not a stew). Pop the pot into a low heat oven and let time do its magic, checking periodically for doneness or need for additional liquid.

When the meat is fork tender, remove and admire your handiwork. Braised

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DINE DISCOVER

Upstream’s pot roast with gravy and sautéed vegetables.

46 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

DINE DISCOVER

The great thing about braising is that you can use different cuts and flavor profiles to create a completely different dish based on seasonal changes.

items taste even better the next day, so it is absolutely fine to braise the day before, cool right in the pot, skim off excess fat after it solidifies at the top, and reheat before serving. To take the braising liquid to another level before serving, remove meat and aromatics, reduce if needed and defat.

For the ultimate in decadence, finish last minute with butter, fresh herbs, and a splash of heavy cream.

At Upstream Brewing Company, Executive Chef Jeff Everroad creates a mouth-watering, comforting pot roast using the bottom flat cut from a beef round. To develop maximum flavor, he sears the roasts fat-side down, turning to ensure a solid crust on all sides, and finally returning to the fat side (most of the fat renders out and melds with the liquid to create that velvety texture during the long braise). The meat is removed, and mirepoix, black peppercorn, smashed garlic cloves, parsley stems, and tomato scraps are added for a brief sweat in the rendered fat. Next the pan is deglazed further with red wine (less for flavor and more for color and body) and finished with Dundee Scotch Ale and beef stock. At Upstream, the braising liquid is recycled for subsequent batches, because it just gets better and better.

The meat (typically four roasts per batch) is placed back in and then cooks low and slow at 250 degrees Fahrenheit until fork tender (lower temps are even better if you are afforded the space and time).

The pot roast at Upstream is plated with blanched and sautĂŠed vegetables and covered in gravy created from the amazing braising liquid. It is the ultimate cozy Fall dish; warming, flavorful, and satisfying. Braised meat that does not make it to the plate is often used on pizza or as part of family meal for the kitchen.

According to Everroad, the great thing about braising is that you can use different cuts and flavor profiles to create a completely different dish based on seasonal changes.

Upstream is doing just that by introducing a new Fall dish: a play on Barbacoa. Instead of traditional aromatic mirepoix, beef cheeks are braised in an aromatic blend of different chiles with the resultant braising liquid providing a base for a traditional mole sauce.

The meat is then served with Spanish rice, corn tortillas, braised kale, and a tomatillo crema.

Along with cozy sweaters, raking leaves, and listening to football on the radio, make time to try a braised dish this fall—you will not regret it.

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DINENE B RASKA . CO M 47

BRAISING RECIPE FOR

Bone-in English Style Short Ribs English-style is the name for the cut: ribs are cut parallel to the bone, with one bone per piece.

4 each 2 each 1 tablespoon 6 cloves 2 cups 1 cup 4 each 4 each 1 each as needed as needed 1.

beef short ribs, bone-in, English style large onions, julienned tomato paste garlic full-bodied, delicious red wine beef or veal stock carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces sprigs fresh thyme bay leaf salt and fresh ground black pepper vegetable oil or other high smoke-point fat

Heat oven to 275 degrees Fahrenheit, and adjust rack to middle-low position.

2. Use paper towels to pat beef dry and season liberally with salt and pepper.

3. Over medium-high heat place a large, heavy bottomed pot (Dutch oven). Add about 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and heat until shimmering (not quite smoking).

4. Add beef in batches and sear all sides, fat side down first and last, until well-browned.

If fat begins to smoke, reduce heat as needed.

5. Transfer beef to rimmed platter or large bowl and repeat searing process until all beef is seared.

6. Reduce heat to medium, add onions and carrots, and cook until softened and beginning to brown, about 10 – 15 minutes.

If the vegetables are browning too quickly, add a 1 – 2 tablespoons of water to the pan.

7. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until brown, about 2 minutes.

8. Add garlic and cook briefly until aromatic, about 30 seconds.

9. Increase heat to medium-high and deglaze with a small amount of wine. Once bits are loosened from the pan, add the remaining wine and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, about 10 minutes.

48 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

10. Add thyme, bay leaf, and beef, including any accumulated juices. Cover about threefourths with the stock (you may need more or less depending on your pan size.

11. Cover and bring to a simmer.

12. Transfer pot to oven and cook, using tongs to check meat and turn at least twice during cooking, until fork tender. Check about every 30 – 45 minutes to ensure braising liquid is not boiling, if so, reduce heat by 10 degrees. Add additional liquid as needed to keep level at around two-thirds to threefourths during cooking.

13. Once meat is fork tender, remove pot from oven. Remove meat and keep warm.

14. Strain cooking liquid and skim fat.

15. Pour liquid into a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat until reduced according to your preference. Remove from heat, check seasoning, and swirl in 1 – 2 tablespoons butter. Optionally, add a splash of cream and fresh chopped herbs.

16. Pour sauce over meat and serve with mashed potatoes, pasta, or rice.

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