Dine Magazine Summer 2020

JAMES BEARD SEMIFINALIST BEN MAIDES LAZY HORSE • FAIRSING VINE YA R D SPIRIT WORLD • DANDE LION P O P -U P

Elevating the Nebraska dining experience

Making memories with local artisan ice cream

SUMMER 2020

EDGE M A G A Z I N E

FEB RUA RY 202 0

OCTOBER 2019

M A G A Z I N E

OMAH A ENTRE 'S SAVVY PRENE UR JAMES MANS KE

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DINENE B RASKA . CO M 1

Elevating the Nebraska dining experience VOLUME 1, ISSUE 4 SUMMER 2020

PUBLISHER AND OWNER Carole Sprunk (402) 587-2259 // Carole@DineNebraska.com CO-OWNER Michael Meyer (402) 517-0350 // Michael@DineNebraska.com MANAGING EDITOR Kathy Rygg (402) 490-3213 // Kathy@DineNebraska.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Anna Hartman, Michael Meyer and Vera Lynn Petersen DINE is published quarterly.

Content copyright © 2020 DINE Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, without permission in writing from the publisher, Carole Sprunk.

Although care has been taken to ensure the accuracy, completeness and reliability of the information provided, DINE assumes no responsibility therefore.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DINE Magazine, PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022

DESIGNERS Quentin Lueninghoener and Ben Vankat, Hanscom Park Studio (402) 517-1228 // Contact@HanscomPark.com PHOTO STAFF Christopher Tierney Photography (402) 350-5699 Joshua Foo Photography (402) 905-1907 The Walman Bros (402) 621-0864 ADVERTISING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Gabby Christensen (402) 320-7080 // Gabby@DineNebraska.com Tom Patton (402) 214-5070 // Tom@DineNebraska.com

CONTACT US (402) 587-2259 Carole@ DineNebraska.com PO Box 620 Elkhorn, NE 68022 2 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

Liz Rease (402) 639-6622 // Liz@DineNebraska.com ADVISORY BOARD Brian O’Malley, Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts Matthew Brown, Advanced Sommelier, V. Mertz

Table of Contents SUSHI ETIQUETTE, DELIVERY TIPS, INGREDIENT SUBSTITUTIONS

CONEFLOWER eCREAMERY, TED & WALLY’S

6

BENJAMIN MAIDES

24

8

Dear Dine

I scream for ice cream

Quality over quantity

DANDELION POP-UP

LAZY HORSE BREWING AND WINERY

INSTITUTE FOR THE CULINARY ARTS

Delivering in a time of need

42

40

26 A great escape

Adapting to change DINENE B RASKA . CO M 3

Letter from the publisher Welcome to our summer issue of Dine Magazine! With summer in full force, ice cream is a great way to cool off! Our cover story highlights three of Omaha’s local artisan ice cream shops: Coneflower, eCreamery, and Ted and Wally’s. Learn about their techniques for crafting delicious selections, and then try your own at home with the included recipe.

FIND THE FLATWARE! Hidden in this issue is the image of a fork and spoon.

Be the first to snap a photo of the flatware and share on Facebook and/ or Instagram and tag @DineMagazine.

If you are the first one, you will win a $50 gift card to Meadowlark Management (Stirnella, Red Lion Lounge, Butterfish). One entry per issue, please. Let’s share the love!

DINE WINE

With a change in the weather, ELEVEN ELEVEN manager Jeffrey Bell suggests a few

Spring sippers It is time to shed your sweaters and full-bodied red wines and stock the fridge with aromatic, crisp, fruity spring wines. Local wine shop proprietors are eager to help you discover unique wine regions in different countries.

Jeffrey Bell, General Manager of the retail shop and wine bar Eleven Eleven in Benson, prefers to focus on unique varietals from small producers offered by boutique distributors. Decisions are made by tasting the wines and talking with the producers. “I like to work with people and family winemakers,” he said. “There is nothing on my shelves that I don’t think is a great representation of both grape and terroir.”

Featured wines are reasonably-priced and often eclectic. Bell will recommend a wine when asked, but his philosophy is to “drink what you like”. For example, if you normally enjoy rosé, try something a little fuller bodied or drier. If you like Sauvignon Blanc, try an interesting French Sancerre. Grown in the limestone hills of the Loire Valley, the grapes express zingy minerality balanced with a bit of savory smoke. This combination makes a beautiful pairing with an herbed, whipped

goat cheese spread on slices of toasted baguette.

Pair warm patio breezes with a PouillyFuisse’ from the Burgundy region in France. Made from chardonnay grapes, the aroma and flavor are crisper, lighter, and more distinctive than California chards. Due to the different soils, wines from this region express more fruity, citrus, and acidic notes.

Eleven Eleven was designed to look like an effortlessly cool half-finished basement.

Thrifted couches, eclectic chairs, and mid-century lamps line the floor while macramé plant hangers line exposed stud walls. The effect draws you in, and before you know it you’ve ordered a glass of wine and nibbles from nearby Yoshitomo.

This season, make time to visit Eleven Eleven for a tasting, learn more about its wine club, or simply browse and enjoy a glass or two with friends in this cozy Benson spot.

The pandemic impacted many businesses and families, and Nick Bartholomew with Dandelion Pop-Up quickly recognized a need to help feed the community. Local chefs, volunteers, and suppliers came together to provide food for hundreds of families in need every week for three months.

Metro Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts had to adapt its classes quickly for quarantine. Instruction became virtual so chefs in training were still able to receive education to further develop their skills through online learning.

Our Expert interview is with James Beard Award semifinalist Benjamin Maides with Au Courant. He shares his passion for making special occasion food approachable in price and service.

Dine staff traveled to Ohiowa, Nebraska, to bring you a story on Lazy Horse Brewing and Winery. If touring breweries this summer is on your list, be sure to check it out. Each beverage story highlights some of the best places and ways to enjoy refreshing summer drinks.

I hope you enjoy this issue of Dine. Our next issue celebrates one year of bringing you great stories in the Nebraska food and beverage industry. Please don’t forget to send us your dining questions for a chance to have them highlighted in our Dear Dine section.

Loire Valley

Burgundy

FRANCE

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN

Loire Valley 34 DINE M AGA ZINE

D I N E N EBRA SKA . C OM 35

The flatware hid in wine country on page 34 of the spring issue.

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Carole Sprunk Publisher

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DEAR DINE: What is sushi

A Japanese dish consisting of small balls or rolls of vinegarflavored cold cooked rice served with a garnish of raw fish, vegetables, or egg 6 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

In an effort to help elevate the Nebraska Dining experience, we answer the questions you’ve always wanted to ask while dining out.

Dear DINE Dear Dine, “What is the proper etiquette for eating sushi? I see some people using chopsticks while others eat with their hands.”

— Ben Dear Ben, A great question for our own James Beard Nominated chef and owner of Yoshitomo, David Utterback. He shared, “Both are fine. Originally street food was created to be eaten with hands. For rolls, it doesn’t matter as much. But for nigiri, a welltrained sushi chef should notice your preference and adjust their technique, but hands are preferred so we don’t have to squeeze the nigiri as tightly to keep the rice from falling apart. Well-made nigiri should have its rice packed loosely enough that the whole thing should fall apart when it gets in your mouth. Rice squeezed too hard is chewy. Additionally, it’s technically fish side down into soy sauce, but as long as it’s not a Michael Jordan dunk into the soy sauce, I don’t think orientation matters as much. Long story short, either hands or chopsticks are fine. Go easy on the soy sauce, and don’t put wasabi in the soy sauce. Additional wasabi should be added to the piece.”

Tip a delivery driver like you would tip a server at a restaurant.

Dear Dine, “How much should I tip a delivery driver?”

— Cathy Dear Cathy, The answer to this one might be easier than you think because we already practice regular tipping with the same numbers. Kristopher Copp, owner of Copps pizza, uses his own staff for delivery service. He stated, “I would say typically delivery tip is between 15% to 20%.

Similar to a server, although the better the service the better the tip. Some drivers run to the door carrying clipboards, cheese

HAVE A RESTAURANTRELATED QUESTION? Email Dine Magazine and we’ll answer in an upcoming issue!

and pepper packets, and overall just make the experience easier and smoother for the customers. Drivers, just like servers, depend heavily on their tips to make a living and provide for their families.”

Dear Dine, How many substitutions are too many?

— Erin

Dear Erin, This question could be answered a hundred different ways by a hundred different restaurants. Jessica and Colin Duggan at Kitchen Table keep a very open perspective on this question. “Kitchen Table strives to be a place where people feel like they have choices and don’t have to settle based on dietary needs. Our focus on scratch-made makes it possible for us to easily accommodate the majority of special requests, giving people options, and in the end an enjoyable meal. Basically, our policy is if we can do it, we will.”

However, we have all noticed restaurants with “No Substitutions” listed in the menu. There appears to be an overall theme, which is to remember you are a guest and to politely ask your needs while respecting the restaurant’s answer. If they are not capable of meeting your needs, they will let you know.

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 7

DINE DISCOVER

Iyou

scream, scream

Cool off in the heat of summer with Omaha’s artisan ice creams STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS BY JOSHUA FOO PHOTOGRAPHY

H

omemade ice cream evokes nostalgic childhood memories— smelling and touching the rock salt, listening to the hum of the motor while swatting bugs in the backyard, helping Dad at the grill. It took time and energy, but the result was heavenly. Nearly everyone has an ice cream memory, and this quintessential summer treat is found in delectable flavors as varied as those who enjoy it.

8 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 9

DINE DISCOVER

Ice cream is first seen in history in China, circa 3000 BC, and many countries and historical figures lay claim to its discovery. It is, simply, a semi-frozen concoction of sugar, cream, and flavoring. Later versions incorporated eggs for richness and began experimenting with variables such as flavors, textures, and freeze time.

Most ice cream products start with a cooked liquid base of dairy (or dairy substitute such a coconut or cashew milk), sugar, and flavorings. This mixture is cooled completely and then churned to both freeze and aerate the mixture.

Omaha boasts several artisan ice cream shops, and Omaha’s Blackstone Hotel is the purported home of Butter Brickle ice cream, a nostalgic favorite that takes its name and flavor profile from a candy developed by the Fenn Bros. Ice Cream and Candy company in South Dakota around 1918. We love our ice cream in the Midwest and it shows.

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In the United States, to be called ice cream, the base must have 10% milkfat minimum. In Omaha, Ted & Wally’s product is much richer. Its concoctions, made with local eggs and dairy, boast the highest butterfat in America at 20 percent. Churned in 100-year-old White Mountain freezers with rock salt and ice, there is very little overflow (amount of air incorporated into the mix during churn), resulting in a creamy product with a texture that cannot be mimicked in more modern machines. Famous for featuring local ingredients and collaborating with local creators, Ted & Wally’s menu board is updated daily with both available flavors and a list of current suppliers. The current Old Market location is housed in a former gas station and decorated with gas station paraphernalia obtained from the owners’ grandfather.

“The present is very much informed by the past here,” shared co-owner Joe Pittack.

Gelato, another frozen dessert, starts with a

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Abby Jordan, owner of eCreamery

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DINENE B RASKA . CO M 13

DINE DISCOVER

Ted & Wally’s co-owners Jeanne Ohira and Joe Pittack

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lower butterfat mix, incorporating less air during churn, resulting in a denser product typically served a slightly warmer temperature. Local ice cream shop eCreamery, serving a customer base both in parlor and online, found traditional methods proved inconsistent for freezing/ shipping. The company embarked on intensive gelato training, eventually landing on a “gelato-style” Italian ice cream and gelato machines with different paddles, each controlling the amount of incorporated air.

Operating out of the former Carl Baum

drugstore on Underwood in the Dundee neighborhood, eCreamery delights in serving customers both in the brick and mortar store and online. Clever names, custom packaging, and national shipping give customers the ability to see eCreamery’s ideas come to life. Local artist Tom Meyers creates colorful and engaging chalkboard art announcing the day’s flavors, and the spring green tile draws customers in with its modern yet kitschy appeal.

Quality ingredients are critical when making ice cream, and using those in-

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DINE DISCOVER

Katie Arant, co-owner of Coneflower Creamery 16 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

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DINE DISCOVER

18 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

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DINE DISCOVER

Ted & Wally’s churns its ice cream in 100-year-old White Mountain freezers.

20 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

gredients in both familiar and surprising ways sums up the farm-to-table approach of Coneflower Creamery, located in Omaha’s Blackstone neighborhood.

Creative, seasonal, handmade offerings are churned in small batches onsite in a tiny kitchen lovingly referred to as “cooking in a submarine” by owner Brian Langbhen. Co-owner Katie Arant shared, “We take nostalgic classics and make them as good as you can with the best possible ingredients, drawing on our past experiences for inspiration.”

During the period of social distancing,

all three shops pivoted in admirable fashion. eCreamery got creative with temporary flavor names such as “Chill Out, It’s Called Social Distancing” (Vanilla with Cookie Dough), and comfort selections such as “Life is Better with Ice Cream” (Mint Cookie Crunch with Fudge Swirls).

Ted & Wally’s opened to take out and delivery, and Coneflower scooped up hundreds of pints for online ordering/ curbside pickup.

While some prefer their ice cream served au naturel in a dish, cone lovers can choose from a variety of handmade

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K E Y E S

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DINE DISCOVER

Coneflower Creamery co-owners Katie Arant and Brian Langbehn

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cones and toppings. Cookies and ice cream are a perfect pair, and if you are lucky, you might come across the eCreamery/Carson’s Cookie food truck when out running errands. The two companies recently merged, making a match made in heaven.

With the advent of today’s ice cream machines, churning your own at home is easy and delicious.

Jeanne Ohira of Ted & Wally’s offers sage advice. “Use heavy cream and real eggs! Don’t be afraid to try new flavors and take inspiration from what’s around you.

If it’s a food, it can be ice cream.” It can take several iterations to get a recipe just right, so don’t be afraid

to fail (even the rejects taste pretty good).

Coneflower has recently been experimenting with judicious use of fire in its flavors, such as burnt toast and charred berry. When asked about flavor development, Arant replied, “If I can see myself wanting a scoop of it, I’ll try any combination—make what you want to eat!”

Get inspired by foods, flavors, and experiences and try your own. You will find a flavor to love on hot summer days, just like Warren Buffet (mint chip) and Sir Paul McCartney (vanilla bean) did in that famous photo op on the Dundee bench outside eCreamery.

F E E L I N G I N S P I R E D ? T R Y T H I S R E C I P E AT H O M E .

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream INGREDIENTS

1. STEEP VANILLA BEAN

5. STRAIN AND FLAVOR

2 cups heavy cream

In a deep, heavy-bottomed saucepan, add heavy cream, half-and-half, and vanilla bean, and heat to boiling over medium heat. Remove from heat.

Through a fine mesh strainer, pour custard into a clean metal bowl. Add salt and extract (if using). Whisk to combine and adjust seasoning if needed.

1 cup half-andhalf ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 each vanilla bean, split and scraped (or sub 2 teaspoons vanilla extract) 6 each large egg yolks ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon extract (optional)

2. PREPARE YOLKS In a medium bowl, add egg yolks and sugar. Use a whisk to combine until pale and thick (ribbon stage). You know you are there when you lift the whisk out of the bowl, and the mixture falls like ribbons into the bowl.

3. TEMPER EGG MIXTURE Slowly pour a small amount of the warm dairy mixture into the egg mixture, whisking continuously. Add about half of the remaining dairy, whisking until well-combined.

4. COOK CUSTARD Add the tempered egg mixture into the cream left in the pan and return to heat. Continue whisking constantly until mixture reaches 165°F (just steaming—do not boil). Remove from heat.

6. CHILL Cover custard with plastic wrap touching the surface (to prevent skin forming). Place custard bowl over an ice bath and chill thoroughly. You can also place the custard bowl in the refrigerator.

7. CHURN Following ice cream maker directions, churn the custard. Upon completion, it will still be a bit soft, but if that’s how you like it, scoop, serve, and enjoy. Or remove from ice cream canister and place into separate container, then freeze at least 4 hours until firm.

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 23

DINE EXPERT

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James Beard Semifinalist CHEF BENJAMIN MAIDES comes full circle

Quality over quantity There is a certain type of magic found when someone’s life brings them full circle. Benjamin Maides was 16 years old when his mother drove him to a job interview at Espana Tapas restaurant in Benson. A week after his interview, he received a call that Espana’s dishwasher left, and he was offered the job. While washing dishes, Maides became interested in learning cooking techniques from the chefs in the kitchen.

“That’s where it all started,” he recalled.

“Carlos Mendez was a server at the time.

It went full circle when he bought the restaurant years later.” Both Maides and Mendez opened Au Courant Regional Kitchen in 2016, bringing Maides back to work as the head chef in the same kitchen where he started as a dishwasher.

In the years between Espana and Au Courant, Maides continued his education by earning a culinary degree and traveling the world. He felt a pivot in his career when he spent time working at Bouchon in California. “Bouchon gave me a good structure of how to work in a kitchen and how a restaurant was run. And obviously my time in Italy left an impact on my pasta program here.”

Maides found his inspiration for the concept of Au Courant when visiting restaurants in San Francisco and New York. “I did not want it to be unapproachable from a price point or service point. I wanted good food to not be a special occasion.”

The menu of Au Courant changes weekly to allow for the current availability of seasonal ingredients, and diners have the option of ordering the Chef ’s Tasting Menu. “My approach to food is very

ingredient driven. That’s where I derive my inspiration and what writes the menu every week. It is ever-revolving, current, new, and fresh.” Maides built a smoker for the restaurant for this purpose. Using the smoker enables him to subtly play with the flavors of his dishes.

In February, Maides was announced as a 2020 James Beard Award nominee.

“I was super surprised to get the nomination,” he said. “I received a text from one of my fellow chefs. I think I had more phone calls and texts that day than any day I can remember. It is very encouraging that what we are doing is working and the long days are paying off.”

Although Omaha has had several chefs nominated for a James Beard award, no chef in Omaha has made it past the semi-finals. Maides believes that over the past few years Omaha has become more recognized for food, and people are becoming aware of what is happening in the Midwest. “We will see what happens and keep doing what we do regardless,” said Maides. “Our motivation is happy guest after happy guest.” While he is not afraid to admit that his restaurant has had its mistakes, he believes his staff has become a well-oiled machine. He also has

STORY BY VERA LYNN PETERSEN PORTRAIT BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

MAIDES’ PA S S I O N S

AU COURANT REGIONAL KITCHEN 6064 Maple St. (402) 505-9917 www.aucourantrestaurant.com

come to understand that his restaurant is not for everybody as his focus will always be quality over quantity.

In the past year Maides began a new adventure in farming. “The farm has been a huge passion project. To do a little bit more of our own stuff turns out to be a lot of work, which makes me appreciate our farmers even more. My future goals are to do more intimate small scale farm dinners, and I always like to double down and reinvest in this restaurant. I ask myself, ‘How do we do this and what do we do to improve on the experience while trying not lose focus on the task at hand?’”

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 25

DINE SCENE STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN

HAND IN HAND Dandelion Pop-Up delivers to the community during a critical time of need

D

andelion Pop-Up is a business venture born of altruism, conceived by an entrepreneur all too familiar with adversity. A former stockbroker with a passion for creating concepts, Nick Bartholomew’s knack for reimagining makes him uniquely skilled to pivot. Just months after a fire that left his new restaurant gutted, he passed by the little shack at the corner of 13th and Howard Streets. It was then an idea began to germinate: what if someone made possible opportunities for chefs to come out from behind the pass and interact with the people enjoying the food, to experiment with foods and flavors outside the boundaries of their restaurant’s brand?

26 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

Elizabeth Wallace and Nick Bartholomew

PHOTOS BY THE WALMAN BROS

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 27

DINE SCENE

volunteer Brandy Rettele helps prepare the meals to go

28 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

This, too, was not without challenge.

Not long into its tenure, the Greater Omaha Chamber of Commerce moved, and the life that had been breathed into the little corner stand was snuffed out.

Bartholomew persevered, and in 2020 Dandelion Pop-Up was back in business with a nearly completed stellar schedule only to be then hit in early March with the Covid-19 shutdowns.

Omaha has a unique, thriving food scene with a big city feel and tight-knit community of varied cuisines, person-

alities, and circumstances. When the pandemic forced changes, some establishments pivoted to carry out, some closed entirely, and others collaborated to serve the community, starting with bags of supplies for their own staff members.

When Bartholomew started contacting chefs scheduled for the 2020 lineup, several expressed dismay, wondering what to do with unused product and cooks anxious to keep working. Glenn Wheeler, executive chef at Spencer’s for Steaks and Chops, opened his kitchens for the first

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DINENE B RASKA . CO M 29

DINE SCENE

801 Chophouse served as a prep kitchen as well as a delivery location for vendors.

30 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

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DINE SCENE

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week to serve 200 people.

It was soon clear the need was great, so each week a new social media post circulated. Through food, supply, monetary, and time donations, hundreds more were served. Menus included scratch pizza, smoked pork shops, meatloaf, and lasagna, all prepped by volunteers, organized by local chef Bryce Coulton, in either the kitchen at Spencer’s or down the street at 801 Chophouse.

“This works because everyone collabo-

rates and trusts each other,” said Coulton.

“Questions get asked, answered, and we move forward with a common goal.”

Menus were designed for efficient use of product, preparation with consideration for storage, and easy service on the part of the consumer. Several families included small children, as Bartholomew shared, “We save back the fun cereal for families with kids, hoping it will add a little joy to their days.”

Many volunteers from varying parts

Left to right: Elizabeth Wallace, Brandy Rettele, Witney Stanley, Glenn Wheeler, Emma Osentoski, Bryce Coulton, Nick Bartholomew, Michael Anderson, Ivan Dondiego. Not pictured: Deven Rieck

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 33

DINE SCENE

of the industry—executive chefs, private chefs, culinary students, and restaurant managers—returned each week. The common sentiment among them was how great it felt to be productive, feeding their own mental state while serving others.

One young culinary student was particularly excited to work with Coulton, having met him on a high school trip sponsored by her culinary academy. This situation provided an excellent opportunity for her

34 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

to both learn and give back to the local community.

Many community members and organizations benefitted from Dandelion PopUp, and dissemination of food adapted as the weeks progressed. Initially volunteers handed out bags and boxes on the corner of 13th and Howard, but later additional locations were added, and online request forms made it easy for recipients to request and pick up privately.

“We finished our 12th and final week strong, thanks to all of our amazing donors and volunteers,” Bartholomew said. A partial list of business and individuals who donated or helped include: Sysco, Jon’s Naturals, Spencer’s for Steaks and Chops, Glenn Wheeler, Ryan Mann, Dan Watts, Pat Ratigan, Meghan McLarney, Bryce Colton, Amy McGillan, Jams, Flagship, Elizabeth Wallace, Matt Frampton, Omaha Steaks, Le Quartier, Ivan Dondiego, Ika Ramen, Kristina Lee,

Kane Atkinson, Witney Stanley, Emma Ostentoski, Deven Rieck, Lindy Pearson, Omaha Food Lovers, Culprit, Stories Coffeehouse, Reinhart, Karlsberger, Morgan Ranch Wagyu beef.

As Dandelion pauses for its next chapter, Kitchen Table has graciously offered to carry on with providing meals to those in need. Donations can be directed towards its community effort.

Venmo: kitchentable1415 or email friends@kitchentableomaha.com.

DINENE B RASKA . CO M 35

Fairsing Vineyard 36 DI N E M A GA ZIN E

DINE WINE

MIKE AND MARY ANN MCNALLY journeyed from Nebraska to Oregon to start Fairsing Vineyard

Wine from the West Mike and Mary Ann McNally were born only a few blocks apart from one another in Omaha, Nebraska. Though they knew of one another in high school—Mike at Creighton Prep and Mary Ann at Duchesne—it wasn’t until their freshman psychology class at Creighton University that they began dating and later married.

After 22 years in Texas, their lives took a turn. “I found myself without a job, and Mary Ann told me she wanted to move to Oregon and plant grapes,” Mike explained. “I said ok.” Thus, Fairsing Vineyard was born west of Portland in the prestigious Willamette Valley. Mary Ann preferred pinot noir wines, and Mike preferred cabernet, but his wife converted him. “Marriage is give and take,” Mary Ann said.

Fairsing winemaker Robert Brittan, an Oregon native who studied at UC Davis, served as the winemaker for two prestigious Napa Valley producers, Far Niente and Stags’ Leap, before moving back to Oregon. At Fairsing, Brittan crafts all-estate wines that reflect the terroir of the McNally’s vineyard and the legacy they hope to leave behind—a legacy focused on family.

The “Matriarch” series of wines is intended to be a part of that rich family

legacy by honoring the women who are the eponyms of these artisan Pinot noirs.

“We name them after our mothers and grandmothers,” explained Mike. “Sullivan is named for my grandmother, Winifred, a red-haired Irish lady, very vivacious and sassy. The wine reflects her character.” The most recent Matriarch is Claire Kenney, named after Mike’s late mother and is an earthy mid-palate wine. “It’s friendly, like my mother was,” Mike said fondly.

Fairsing Vineyard produces only 3,000 cases of wine annually. There are only two states where you can purchase these wines: Oregon and Nebraska. In Omaha, Fairsing wines are available at Corkscrew Wine & Cheese, J. Coco, Old Vine Wine & Spirits, Pacific Cellars, Twisted Cork Bistro, V. Mertz, and Vino Mas. Mike and Mary Ann’s oldest son was in school at Brown University when the couple traveled to Rhode Island to meet the young lady who is now his wife. When

Willamette Valley

OREGON

STORY BY MARK GUDGEL PHOTO BY ANDREA JOHNSON

Mike and Mary Ann mentioned to her that they needed a name for the vineyard they intended to plant, she offered “Fairsing,” which is Gaelic for bountiful, plentiful, and abundance. It was perfect.

“We feel that’s what our lives are,” said Mike.

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Spirit World’s Quarantini cocktail

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DINE SPIRITS

Ingredients have changed, but Laurie Hellbusch with SPIRIT WORLD says to-go cocktails kits are here to stay

Quarantine cocktails Years ago, my husband gifted to me a monthly do-it-yourself cocktail subscription. Each month, a sleek cardboard box appeared on the doorstep containing tiny bottles of unique spirits and ingredients, along with clear instructions for crafting two delicious libations. Most recipes used just a fraction of the provided spirits, so we ended up with a mini bar that looked as though it had been pillaged by an indecisive ogre.

Fast forward to early March 2020, where the world seemingly stopped due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The trip my husband and I had planned to Scotland for distillery tours was cancelled, and grocery store trips were severely limited, so I resolved to make the best of it and get creative with the spirit remnants cluttering up the shelves. Leftover grapefruit and lime juices shaken up with rum, brandy, and Chai liqueur resulted in a cocktail reminiscent of a spicier Hemingway Daiquiri, and a little smoked salt livened up the rim of a grapefruit-forward Paloma made with the last of the mezcal and tequila.

Within days, restaurants and bars closed, and within weeks, local laws loosened to allow cocktails to come to customers through carryout/curbside pickup or delivery. Patrons were able to browse online and place orders for entire bottles, premixed drinks, or cocktail kits like the one I received via snail mail.

Laurie Hellbusch, owner of Spirit

World in Aksarben, has seen this trend take off in a big way. “As the weather warms, customers’ tastes are veering away from the cozy Old Fashioned toward Moscow Mules, Margaritas, and Atelie Aperitivo Spritzes,” she said. Each package Spirit World offers makes 8-12 cocktails, perfect for enjoying at home.

For those missing the camaraderie and variety of a tasting, local shops have found creative ways to bring the tasting to you through delivery or pickup of sample-sized wines or spirits to be enjoyed with others through guided online sessions. In lieu of branded events and happy hours, customers can order packages that feature flavor varieties and gear (think tees, hats, cups), just as you might receive by stopping in.

Where there is a will, there is a way, and you needn’t let a pandemic stop you from enjoying light, satisfying summer cocktails crafted by local bartenders and shop owners. Place your order, pour, and head outside to enjoy.

Ingredients for the Quarantini

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

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Jim Stutzman

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DINE BEER

This summer, take a road trip to LAZY HORSE BREWING AND WINERY for unique summer flavors

A great escape All it takes is a day in the country and you will understand the appeal of Lazy Horse Brewing and Winery. Just a few miles off the highway outside of Ohiowa, Nebraska, is one of the state’s most cherished breweries. You will arrive to a beautiful drive with flowing pastures, grapevines, and a tasting room with immense country charm.

Prior to opening in 2015, owners Jim and Julie Stutzman were ranchers. They decided to try something new by growing grapes on their land to sell to wineries. In a short period of time, they ventured into making their own wine.

The plans for winemaking were well underway when the couple added craft beer. The goal for the first year of brewing was just to produce enough to have in the tasting room. Jim produced 35 kegs of beer with the thought it would get him through the summer. Within three weeks there were only 5 kegs left.

Within no time, people were finding their way out to the tasting room to enjoy both wine and craft beer. When asked what he enjoys most about running a brewery and winery, Jim replied, “It’s the people. We want them to enjoy the

experience of being here as much as the beer, wine, and wood-fired pizza. I also have a great wife, Julie, who has built a staff second to none who will take care of you like family.”

Lazy Horse covers a wide spectrum of beer styles, including Lager, Kolsch, IPA, Porter, and Stout. This summer you can enjoy so many crisp refreshing beers like the County Line Lager and the Salted Caramel Blonde. Since they opened, more than 140 different beers have been created.

There is no better time to get out and enjoy a day in the country at Lazy Horse Brewing and Winery. You deserve an escape from all of life’s stresses to unwind with a great Nebraska craft beer.

Cheers!

STORY BY MICHAEL MEYER PORTRAIT BY THE WALMAN BROS

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ADAPTING TO CHANGE INSTITUTE FOR THE CULINARY ARTS moves to online STORY BY VERA LYNN PETERSEN PHOTOS BY JOSHUA FOO PHOTOGRAPHY

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T

he question of how to navigate a culinary program through a pandemic was not one the staff of The Institute for the Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College had ever expected to encounter. As the question forced itself upon them this spring, they proved themselves adaptable in transitioning from in-person lectures and demonstrations to operating classes online.

“The people that have transitioned the best were the faculty,” said Brian O’Malley, Associate Dean of Culinary Hospitality and Horticulture. “Now they are putting it on their backs and running. Metro is not afraid of online, but the hands-on folks, us and the trades, have avoided it because it seems harder to deliver and less valuable. We have been proven wrong on both fronts. It has not been any more difficult than normal and students are able to learn a great deal.”

James Davis, Faculty Instructor for the Institute for the Culinary Arts

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Metropolitan Utilities District Culinary Theatre at the Institute for the Culinary Arts

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The new online lessons are completed in a video format where students watch their instructors in real time and can ask the instructor questions during the demonstration while receiving immediate live feedback. The instructors can also better understand the perspective of the students through their video feedback monitors. This perspective shift has helped instructors see through the student’s lens and adjust their teaching methods to include more helpful visuals for the students.

Some values can be difficult for the faculty to assess online, such as the smell of how quickly butter is melting, so the faculty reduced its lessons to the more critical components and will continue completing practicum tests in-person with only 2-3 students in the kitchen at a time. The school will continue to monitor students’ progress and re-evaluate what continuing online classes will look like in the future.

Several instructors have changed the way they run their classes to include more time for students to ask questions and work together. “In our World Cuisine class, the instructor has curated a playlist rather than him lecturing,” said O’Malley.

“He is able to share a video to watch instead of a 2-hour lecture. This is a chance for everyone to watch the same content and look at it together.”

There will always be things students miss about meeting in person. “One of the things that students get out of being here is we [faculty] are here.” O’Malley explained how those “water cooler moments” have always given students an opportunity to collaborate with others and grow together. The instructors will have virtual office hours where students can pop in and ask questions. These office hours work similar to how instructors already had time for students to visit their desks for questions about lessons and homework.

An additional resource for students is the online weekly Town Hall. This space is for non-classroom conversation about what is happening with anything from financial aid to fall schedules. This resource allows students to save their personal issues for time outside of the classroom where their specific concerns can be fully heard.

One of the biggest solutions in helping each student have a successful semester was to create a supply pick-up program.

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This program makes sure students are supplied with the same products for consistency throughout their classes.

O’Malley stated, “It is like having a subscription CSA (community supported agriculture). You show up at your time every week and all of the stuff you need for the next week’s classes are in your materials box. If you are in three different classes, you pick them all up at one time.”

Pick up is simple as students pull up to the loading dock outside the school and call for a staff member to deliver their box to their vehicle.

The school has also adapted its non-credit classes to online classes in which students can pick-up their ingredient boxes at the school as well as interact with the professor and students online during a lecture and demonstration.

As for what the typical person in Omaha can do to better support the school, O’Malley suggested taking the time to seek out restaurants that host the college’s culinary interns as well as encouraging the restaurant community to

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take on interns. These values of supporting interns will give students more experience and will also feed more money into the restaurant community, which is a win-win for all.

Community is such a big part of the school’s mission, and there have been some concerns with what community would look like online. “One thing people love about coming to culinary school is the camaraderie that you develop with your classmates, so I don’t know yet what the outcome of this will be on that,” O’Malley said. “I know going through an intense situation like this will form bonds.

The students who left class together are going to share a common experience that will bind them together.” O’Malley has already seen students who were previously enrolled in classes together start working together through transitioning to online.

“They do change their permanence in each other’s lives. I hope the remote learning environment will create a really cool tidal wave as the restaurants work together.”

M A G A Z I N E PO Box 620 Elkhorn, NE 68022

this field bears fruit

Horticulture, land systems and management programs prepare you for a variety of earth-touching, sustainability-advancing, fruit-bearing careers.

To learn more, visit mccneb.edu/horticulture Metropolitan Community College

HORTICULTURE, LAND SYSTEMS AND MANAGEMENT Metropolitan Community College affirms a policy of equal education, employment opportunities and nondiscrimination in providing services to the public.To read our full policy statement, visit mccneb.edu/nondiscrimination.