NEWS / TRENDS
Challenges of a Japanese whisky distillery starting production at a new distillery while celebrating its 100th anniversary -Whisky brand released with unique flavors characteristic of the local climate of Yamagata prefecture-
日本産ウイスキー 100 年目の新たなウイスキー蒸留所の挑戦 ー庄内の風土と時を世界に届けるウイスキーブランドの誕生ー
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amazaki Distillery, Japan’s first whisky distillery, was founded a century ago in 1923. The distillery released various unique flavors over the past century. Currently renowned as “Japanese whisky” worldwide, the export value of whisky released by Yamazaki Distillery reached 56 billion JPY in 2023, a tenfold increase over the past ten years. This report introduces the various challenges Yamazaki Distillery overcame to start whisky production at a new distillery in Yamagata prefecture during a milestone year that celebrated its centennial anniversary. One hundred years after the first whisky distillery in Japan opened, GAKKOGAWA DISTILLERY, Inc. started whisky production at a newly constructed distillery in Yuzamachi city, Yamagata prefecture in 2023. Jumpei Sato, President of GAKKOGAWA DISTILLERY, Inc., commented enthusiastically, “We look forward to releasing whisky that reflects our 100 years of history.” Sato is also the sixth owner of Tatenokawa Brewery, a longestablished sake brewery dating back to the Edo period (1603-1868). As sake consumption continued to decline domestically, Sato felt anxious about the future of the sake industry and decided his expertise in sake production would be applicable to whisky production. Next, he shifted his attention to the selection of water to be used to produce whisky. Groundwater from Mt. Chokai, one of Japan’s 100 most famous mountains, is pure, thus the distillery was built near the source. Soft water contains no iron or manganese, thus suitable to produce whisky with a mild flavor, like sake. “The area is very fertile with a water source suitable for delicate whisky flavor produced by a Japanese distillery,” Sato continued. Sake production techniques passed down
© GAKKOGAWA DISTILLERY, Inc.
from brewery workers since the Edo period are also utilized. Distillery workers must analyze the whisky flavor during the fermentation process that mixes barley with water sourced from Mt. Chokai, etc., to raise the alcohol content. “The odor is similar to egg, proof that lactic acid is fermenting. A visual inspection and the sniffing test are conducted to see the bubbles generated and to detect any issues by smell. We capitalize on our experience in sake production,” said one distillery worker. The temperature is managed thoroughly. A change in temperature of 0.1 degrees can change
18 February 2024 • www.alljapannews.com
the whisky flavor while fermenting. Therefore, a distillery worker observes the distillation process closely to assess the conditions. The ideal flavor is pursued during the fermentation period that differs between whisky and sake. The natural bounty of Yamagata prefecture and sake production techniques of distillery workers are packed into the whisky and aged gradually over three years. “I look forward to producing Japanese whisky with a refined, pure, and elegant flavor that attracts whisky fans worldwide,” commented Sato when asked about his aspirations. Sato
Junpei Sato © GAKKOGAWA DISTILLERY, Inc.