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ODYSSEY T H E M A G A Z I N E O F T H E C H E V R O N A U T O C L U B • W I N T E R 2 02 3

Santa Cruz, California— Destination: Chill Sedona—Arizona At Its Classic Best A Road Trip Around the Edge of Iceland A Survey of Some of Our Most Impressive Dams

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ODYSSEY

THE MAGAZINE OF THE CHEVRON AUTO CLUB

Dear Members, The savvy travelers among us use the winter months to plan for outings in the warmer, more travel-friendly months. Of course there are plenty of great winter travel destinations, especially if you want to take advantage of snow’s recreational possibilities—or if you want to be a snowbird and escape the cold for a spell in the sunnier southern latitudes. But what if you decided to go against the grain and head for a destination almost guaranteed to be cold, and not known for skiing? In this issue we take a look at Iceland as such a destination. Packaged tours can take the risks out of traveling to an exotic destination, but a bit of sensible do-it-yourself travel planning can go a long way to making a trip more memorable in the long run. And so our emphasis on Iceland will be on a self-driving tour of the country’s famous Ring Road, a highway that circles the entire island.

Back home we showcase two destinations on our mainland that are almost guaranteed to offer a warmer, sunnier vacation experience than Iceland—one with a West Coast beach vibe (Santa Cruz, California), and one with a desert vibe (Sedona, Arizona). Santa Cruz is home to a large university, but really it’s all about the beach, where one of the country’s best surf breaks is found, along with a seaside atmosphere that anyone can enjoy. Fish tacos, Pacific sunsets, the beach boardwalk…but then there is vibrant Pacific Avenue for non-beach evenings. Sedona offers quite a different scene where Native American culture flavors your experience and the warm, relaxing tones of the desert landscape are always in view and magnificent rock formations take center stage. Sedona offers everything from spiritual awakenings, spa treatments, and first-class restaurants, to hiking, biking, and off-road adventures.

Finally we survey a selection of America’s iconic dams, the unsung, dare we say it, vacation destinations that dot our land. From their impressive engineering to their aesthetic qualities, to the recreational possibilities that surround them, dams cover a range of attributes that will make for an interesting trip.

ODYSSEY is the official publication of the Chevron Auto Club® Volume 54 Number 1 Winter 2023

On the cover: Shark Fin Cove, aka Shark Tooth Beach, is just a short drive north from Santa Cruz’s downtown. It is viewable from a parking area and short trail right along California Highway 1.

Photo: Austin Merlo/Shutterstock

ODYSSEY

President Chevron Auto Club Patrick J O’Brien

Wishing you safe, enjoyable travels, ODYSSEY

is created, edited, and designed by the editorial staff and associates of Dunham Bergquist+Associates

Patrick J O’Brien, President, Chevron Auto Club

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Winter 2023

Contents 02 Sedona—Classic Arizona Long a favorite day trip destination for Arizonans living in the Phoenix metroplex, Sedona has appeal for the long-distance traveler as well— like warmer temps and some sunshine. A favorite location for outdoors enthusiasts, as well as seekers of enlightenment, Sedona manages to attract both kinds of visitors over and over again. By Susan Neff

Crafts and events feature at Sedona’s Tlaquepaque Arts and Shopping Village.

08 Iceland Ring Road Road Trip Okay, it’s a bit out of the way. But if you seek a unique and somewhat adventurous vacation, a trip around Iceland’s Route 1 Ring Road provides the ingredients for a very memorable experience. You can tailor the degree of difficulty to your liking, from camping to staying in relatively luxe accommodations along the way. The scenery is spectacular, but expect at least some rain. By Allen Denson

20 Chillin’ Santa Cruz, California You are never far from the ocean in this admittedly beach-oriented town—and that’s not a bad thing even if you are the type to not go in the water. There is a whole lot more to do than beach activities: spending some time at the Beach Boardwalk amusement park with its classic wooden roller coaster; hiking in the redwoods that are the town’s backdrop; and of course strolling on West Cliff Drive to watch a Pacific Ocean sunset. By Hayden Riley

A sturdy 4WD vehicle is best suited to travel on Iceland’s sometimes challenging road surfaces.

26 Dams of the United States Road trip horizons are expanding. Nowadays folks head out, for example, to travel the old Route 66. Some put their best camping hats on to go “glamping.” And some are known to seek out covered bridges and colorful autumn foliage. So for a twist on the concept, we offer a selection of outstanding dams to visit. It just may spark you to tailor a dam trip of your own design. By Ben Vanderhousen Watsonville Slough, in Santa Cruz County, is home to native American White Pelicans.

Departments

16 Scenic Drives 18 Travel Bulletin 32 Travel Library

Beautiful Theodore Roosevelt Dam in Arizona was completed in 1911 and renovated in the 1990s.

PHOTOS FROM TOP: JOHN D. SIRLIN / SHUTTERSTOCK; VIVI1 / SHUTTERSTOCK; ELAKAZAL / SHUTTERSTOCK; BARRY SINGLETON / SHUTTERSTOCK

ODYSSEY Volume 54, Number 1, December 6, 2023. Copyright © 2023. Cover or contents may not be reproduced in any form without written permission. ODYSSEY is a registered trademark. Chevron Auto Club, and Chevron and Texaco logos, are the registered trademarks of Chevron Intellectual Property LLC. ODYSSEY (ISSN1073-5259) is published by the Chevron Auto Club. Address all editorial correspondence to ODYSSEY, 131 Stony Circle, Suite 500, Santa Rosa, CA 95401. • ODYSSEY and CA Bergquist & Associates, are not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, or artwork. • ODYSSEY is produced for distribution to members of the Chevron Auto Club. Individual issues are not available. • Presorted Standard A Postage paid at Liberty, Missouri. (Permit No.1215) POSTMASTER: Send change of address orders to ODYSSEY c/o Chevron Auto Club, Post Office Box 830008, Miami, FL 33283-0008. ODYSSEY provides information about lodging rates, hours of operation, ticket prices and admission fees. Readers should be aware that these are revised frequently, and although believed to be accurate at press time, they are subject to change. It is the responsibility of the individual to verify details before travel.

Printed in the U.S.A.

SEDONA A R I Z O N A AT I T S CLASSIC BEST

by Susan Neff

The hidden jewel of a Boynton Canyon Trail hike is the “secret” Subway Cave (this page).

Sinagua petroglyphs (right) are inscribed on rocks at the V Bar V site south of Sedona. A group bike tour approaches Bell Rock on their midday outing. The green of a sweet agave (opposite center) complements the natural warm earth tone typical of the Sedona landscape.

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T

he Verde Valley region of Arizona received its

years ago during the Permian Period, a stratigraphic system that deposited material for 47 million years during times of shallow seas, dry periods, and flooding.

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panoply of rich reds, oranges, and yellows millions of

The stunning hues of the erosion-exposed rock layers that appear to glow during sunrise and sunset are unique to the area surrounding the town of Sedona. Known as the Schnebly Hill Formation, it is nearly 1000 feet thick and layered with iron oxide-rich red sandstone, grey Fort Apache limestone, and topped by blonde Coconino sandstone, culminating in the striped effect on many formations.

Visitors can’t help but feel a sense of awe over the magnitude of it all as millions of years of geologic change are graphed in the rock face. Given the immenseness of it all, it’s no surprise that something as other-

purportedly found here in abundance. There are official maps with explanations that highlight the trails, and guided tours that shep-

and mystique that helped make Sedona a popular destination for travelers, spiritual seekers, healers, and artists for decades.

There are two parts to the whole of Sedona—the artsy, spiritual, spa-mecca, foodie small town, and the thousands of adjacent acres containing thrilling natural wonders accessible by foot, bike, or 4x4 vehicles. Dwarfed by the 1.8 million acres of public lands surrounding it, Sedona has a population of about 10,000, which nearly doubles on any given day during the height of the tourist season. Two types of visitors seem to dominate here—those who like to spend days hiking, biking, or driving the mapped trails, and those who come for all the other reasons.

Long before the trail system was planned out, or the CPAULFELL/SHUTTERSTOCK

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herd visitors to the four main vortices—it’s all part of the allure

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worldly as vortices, special energy forces with healing powers, are

town of Sedona even existed, the Yavapai-Apache Nation viewed the area as having great spiritual importance. One such location, Boynton Canyon, is where it is believed the

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first woman, Komwidapokuwia, gave birth to the Yavapai people after the great flood.

A ceremony is held at Boynton Canyon each spring to celebrate. Fast forward to the 1980s when new-age guides sought to lead followers on spiritual quests and to harness the healing powers of nature—needless to say, they had an abundance of Native American history preceding them.

One of the four main vortices listed on maps and guide books is located at Boynton Canyon and is considered to have a balanced energy flow, upward and inward, especially suited to healing. While the views from the rock formations seem to go on forever, caves that can be found throughout the area create picture-frame views, and

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Nevadan Abe Miller, attracted to Sedona, built the Tlaquepaque Arts and Shopping Village (right) after touring Mexico with his architect, collecting ideas and craft pieces to create this multifunction shopping center. Go solo or join a group for a sunrise yoga session (below) at one of the vortex sites. Sedona’s surrounding topography is traversed by jeep tours (bottom) as well as by 4x4 enthusiasts who drive their own.

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welcome shade. If you follow the trail instructions carefully, you can find Subway Cave (most caves in the area are named according to their shape) west of the vortex spot. There are great views of the canyon, and ancient ruins and petroglyphs can be freely explored here as well. There is easy access to both locations from the Boynton Canyon Trailhead parking lot. The cave, about one mile off a spur trail, is a bit tricky to find, so be sure to have the route mapped out before you arrive as cell service is spotty.This is a six-mile hike round trip, with an elevation gain of approximately 800 feet. There are no facilities here, except toilets, so bring your own water and supplies. The lot can fill up early, but you are allowed to park along the road (Red Rock Pass required).

Whether you believe, believe a little, or are a total skeptic, Sedona offers activities for everyone from sweat lodges to spa treatments, hiking to golfing, and chakra cleansing to wine tasting. There are two things, however, travelers always expect when visiting—the good weather (most of the year), and the incredible scenery (always).

The town of Sedona is divided into two sections, the older and smaller Uptown area, and the larger, and newer, West Sedona.

Uptown Sedona is where you will find inspired restaurants, art galleries, day spas, crystal shops, alternative healers, and spiritual guide hires. Also, the Tlaquepaque Arts Village is located at the southern end of Uptown.

Modeled after a Mexican village, the complex

Grand Canyon Flagstaff Prescott

Sedona

A R I Z O N A

The reflection of glowing Cathedral Rock (below) can be seen in a section of Oak Creek near Crescent Moon picnic area. Hikers (bottom) enjoy the view from one of the area’s many trails.

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Canyon. Absent crowds but with worthy photo ops, try Hogwash, Peccary, and Pig Tail trails during a weekday (via Broken Arrow or Mystic trailheads).

Witnessing the“golden hour”around sunset, with wisps of pinks, purples, and blues in the sky combined with the heightened color saturation of the red rocks, leaves a memorable picture in your mind, more surreal than a photograph can deliver. This is a sought- after experience for most visitors. Be forewarned, if you have your heart set on Devil’s Bridge at sunset, there can be a long waiting line to get to the natural sandstone bridge. Locals blame social media posts for the long queue—a victim of the “influencer” generation. That said, a hike to Devil’s Bridge at another hour is highly recommended. This is an easy/moderate

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has courtyard fountains, lush foliage, and archways with an unmistakable Old-World feel. It is a popular spot to stop for lunch and for perusing unique pieces of jewelry, clothing, and artwork by local artisans, while the sound of live music fills the air.

Typically you will find higher priced lodging and dining in Uptown, while West Sedona has a larger variety and more choices of moderately priced accommodations. West Sedona is also where you will find the unique McDonald’s with its teal, not golden, arches, located on US Highway 89A. The best hikes and scenic spots around Sedona range from drive-up easy, such as Airport Mesa (with a vortex spot) and Chapel of the Holy Cross, to strenuous trails requiring several hours of hiking. There are so many choices, but if a trail is too long for you, and it is a location you really want to visit, check to see if a jeep tour, with guide, can get you close to the site, as is the case at Broken Arrow. (Note: a Red Rock Pass parking permit is required at certain trailheads, so check before you go to the trailhead parking lot.)

If you’re planning to stop at the Sedona Visitor Center in West Sedona to pick up a Red Rock Pass permit at the beginning of your visit, next drive a few miles to Red Rock State Park and nature preserve. Just off scenic Red Rock Loop Road, the park makes a perfect gateway experience to Red Rock Country. This is a full service park, and its mission is to preserve the diverse plant and wildlife found in this riparian habitat. Located along a 1.4-mile section of lower Oak Creek (the same waterway that flows through Slide Rock Park 16 miles away), you will see ample wildlife in the park. The caretakers of this 286-acre preserve provide a wealth of information through naturalist-led easy walks and birding tours, a visitor center with exhibits and theater presentations, as well as trail signage. Bonus—after an active day at the park, it’s perfect timing to visit Red Rock Crossing for great sunset views.

Visiting Sedona for the first time, it’s worth focusing on the most famous spots first (they are famous for a reason), but you won’t be alone out there. To experience a bit of the solitude and magic that made Sedona famous in the first place, save time to visit one of the lessor trafficked locations. So hit up the classics first: the four main vortices—Cathedral Rock, Airport Mesa, Bell Rock, and Boynton

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While Sedona’s sunrise and sunset color-fests are must-see events, you will also want to take the time for stargazing.

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level hike via the Dry Creek Vista Trailhead parking lot, so plan for a 3.6 mile hike with 564 foot elevation gain. If you are sure-footed and not afraid of heights, you are allowed to walk the length of the narrow sandstone bridge and back.

The unique beauty of Red Rock Country also holds the secrets of humans who existed here thousands of years ago. It’s worth making the effort to visit the Honanki or Palatki Heritage Sites where the Sinagua people, ancestors of the Hopi, lived from 1150 to 1350. Honanki was home to one of the largest Native American population centers in the Verde Valley at the time.

They lived and raised families in the cliff dwellings, while hunting and tending to crops nearby. The pictographs and petroglyphs visible at these sites pre-date the cliff dwellings by thousands of years and are estimated to date back to 5000 BC. Access is via an unpaved, not-car-friendly road, so renting a jeep or signing up for a tour is highly recommended.

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Native American cliff dwelling ruins (above) are viewable at the Palatki Heritage Site, a few miles northwest of Sedona.

The West Fork Trail (right) meanders through an autumnleafed Oak Creek Canyon.

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Actually, only the last two-plus miles get really rough, so if you don’t mind parking further afield and adding a four-mile roundtrip hike, an all-wheel drive vehicle will probably suffice, but no guarantees on the road upkeep. The extra effort to get to the site comes with an unparalleled red rock experience with fewer visitors.

An easy access area, just a few miles north of Uptown, is Oak Creek Canyon, with its 2000-foot-deep gorge created during millions of years of erosion. The forests here—at varied elevations and locations along the canyon—with juniper, maple, walnut, oak, willow, fir, pine, cottonwood, and sycamore trees stand as a leafy contrast to the steep canyon walls. Surprise!—leaf-peeping is actually quite popular here in the fall as the foliage along the highway and at nearby Hospital Canyon puts on quite the colorful show. And, yes, fall foliage also attracts car traffic, so plan extra time to navigate this 12-mile scenic route in the fall.

Slide Rock State Park offers more fun in Oak Creek Canyon with its 80-foot-long, algae covered, natural water chute used by locals and visitors for decades as the ultimate water slide, and a fun way to cool off in the summer. (Tip: Wear rash-guard clothing to avoid your backside matching the color of the

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Slide Rock State Park, to the north of Sedona in Oak Creek Canyon, is a popular recreational destination for Sedona residents and visitors alike.

red rocks; and add grippy water shoes to help with entering and exiting the chute; it is slippery after all.) The beauty of the canyon, and the boulder-strewn canyon floor at this location, is a worthy photo-op even if a coldwater dip is not on your itinerary.

While the sunrise and sunset color-fests in Sedona are must-see events, also take the time for stargazing. “Dark sky” tourism is on the rise, including in Sedona. The Milky Way, for instance, is getting harder and harder to discern with the naked eye across much of the country, but it shines brightly and looks huge from Sedona.

There are only a handful of official International Dark Sky Communities in the nation, but Sedona and three nearby sites have earned recognition from the IDA. All the communities and parks in the program have taken proactive steps to reduce light pollution including using low-lumen lighting, retrofitted hoods, and directed light fixtures, for instance, along with future lighting ordinances to continue to minimize light pollution for future generations.

The Sedona tourism center offers a list of best spots to stargaze, with detailed directions of where to set up.You can also sign up with a highly acclaimed tour company, Sedona Stargazing, that supplies telescopes for use, and has experienced astronomers on hand to explain everything. Also, some hotels offer stargazing nights, so check their schedules as well.

Sedona values the tourist trade that bolsters the local economy, so it is a very touristfriendly location with many inclusive events and activities offered by the city, alongside offerings by local businesses. The city council is actively planning for the future to make sure this special place does not become too

congested during high season, such as mapping out and promoting alternate trail routes.

The tourism center has a Secret 7 promotion detailing seven hiking trails, seven biking trails, seven stargazing sites, and more.

With an abundance of thrilling hiking experiences, rich in Native American history, mesmerizing archeological sites, good food and accommodations, art galleries, experienced guides of all kinds, and a colorful geologic history on full display—visitors never leave Sedona disappointed.

I N F O R M A T I O N F O R T R AV E L E R S Sedona Visitor Information Center, 331 Forest Road, Sedona, AZ 86336, Phone: 928/282-7722; online at www.visitsedona.com/trip-planning.

Download the parking map and fees brochure at www.sedonaaz.gov > SedonaMapsandParking. Free Sedona Shuttle info at www.sedonashuttle.com.

And, the Cottonwood to Sedona shuttle at www.verdeshuttle.com.

It is best to purchase a Red Rock Pass, required for parking at certain trailheads, ahead of time, online at www.recreation.gov/sitepass/74387 or in person at numerous locations around town. Daily Red Rock Pass $5; weekly pass $15, annual pass $20.

Red Rock State Park, 4050 Red Rock Loop Road, Sedona, AZ 86336. Phone: 928/282-6907;

www.azstateparks.com. Daily guided hikes, 10 a.m.; guided bird walks Wed. and Sat. 8 a.m.. Park open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day except holidays, and extended seasonal hours. Admission fees: Adults, $7; Youngsters, $4; Children 6-years-old and under, free.

Honanki Heritage Site, www.fs.usda.gov. Open 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., closed holidays. Extensive, self-guided interpretive signage.

Tours are also offered from Pink Jeep Tours: www.pinkadventuretours.com.

For detailed hiking information, visit Red Rock Ranger Station and Visitor Center, 8375 State Route 179, Sedona, AZ. Phone: 928/203-2900. Red Rock Passes sold here.

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by Allen Denson

A M O S T U N U S UA L R OA D T R I P – A R O U N D

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et your motor runnin’

Head out on the highway Looking for adventure PHOTOS FROM THE BOTTOM: WJAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK; WIRESTOCK CREATORS/SHUTTERSTOCK; RP BAIAO/SHUTTERSTOCK; ZINAIDA SOPINA/SHUTTERSTOCK; MARIDAV/SHUTTERSTOCK

In whatever comes our way” – from Steppenwolf’s 1968 hit single “Born To Be Wild.”

You may not have been born to be wild, but what about “looking for adventure”—like a road trip vacation that includes a bit, just a bit, of adventure? Okay, so maybe your wheels are of the everyday family sedan type that is comfy and practical—good for around town chores and the occasional road trip—not a setup for “adventure” per se. But if you do get the itch to look for a little adventure on the road, or slightly off it, it turns out there are quite a few roads on the travel horizon that will scratch that itch, with many of them casting themselves as a bucket list vacation experience—including, of all places, Iceland—and in Iceland you won’t even use your own car.

When it comes to traversing bumpy gravel roads, better-suited rental vehicles can be the wise choice, especially in Iceland, where the family sedan is automatically disqualified—not because it is inherently unsuitable—but because you can’t drive there from here anyway! Iceland’s iconic Route 1 Ring Road circles the outer parts of the island and driving it is an experience that is on offer through any number of companies that will supply a suitable vehicle (being anything from a sturdy 2WD

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ICELAND! econo sedan to a rugged 4WD camper), along with the needed arrangements, if desired, for insurance, lodging, etc. The route is 828 miles in length and requires a suggested 8-10 days of your vacation time. The degree of adventure is somewhat dependent on the season in which you make the trip and how far you want to venture off the main highway on gravel roads.

One Icelandic adventure that is not weather or terrain dependent is that of the native language. It turns out that English is commonly spoken, so no real problem there. But, the place names encountered on the island will be a challenge for even the linguistically savvy. As a first lesson for dealing with the place names, note that the Icelandic letter (þ) that looks like a combination of “p” and “b” is pronounced as “th” (it is sometimes written as “th”). Also note that places ending in “-foss” are waterfalls; places ending in “-fell” are mountains.

A panorama of sights and experiences awaits the Ring Road traveler—a literal feast for the lens of your smart phone or camera. To say there is a lot to see, would be an understatement.

A LITTLE ABOUT ICELAND Poking above the surface of the North Atlantic Ocean, Iceland is a volcanic mountain complex near the northern end of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, a geologic feature that has shaped the island’s geography and defines it as a region of continuing activity. Topping out at just under 7,000 feet above sea level, the island’s Hvannadalshnúkur peak on the Öræfajökull volcano is, in fact, the second highest point on the 10,000 miles of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, nearly all of which is LOUIE LEA/SHUTTERSTOCK

Opposite from top: A visitor touches an iceberg on the shore of Jubilations Lagoon; sun shines through vapor of geyser Strombus; wax figures at the Saga Museum depict the transcribing of the sagas; the Bárðar Saga monument at Arnarstapi; the Sun Voyager sculpture in Reykjavik. Eystrahorn is the backdrop for a 4x4 vehicle (above). A pair of puffins (below) are captured on film in the Westfjords region of Iceland.

Akureyri Glaumbær Farm and Museum

The Westfjords

Hverir Lake Mývatn

Egilssstaðir

The Snæfellsnes Penninsula

I C E L A N D The East Fjords

Borgarnes Höfn

Reykjavík

Jökulsárlón Lagoon and Diamond Beach Selfoss

The Ring Road Vík

underwater. Iceland’s geology has sculpted a wild range of shapes and features that include everything from active lava flows, to bubbling mud, to naturally warm pools, to black sand beaches, to soaring mountain silhouettes, natural arches, and numerous stunning waterfalls. A Ring Road trip is, if nothing else, a succession of photo ops that will 1) get you out of the vehicle often and 2) leave you with a memory card full of incredible images.

Long before the Ring Road was a tourist draw, the Vikings sailed to Iceland and established settlements; this was around 874 AD. By some accounts in Icelandic history the Norse caused the departure of the Papars, monks from Ireland who had been occupying the island in small numbers, so the Vikings may not have been the first human inhabitants of the land. By the mid900s, a community of what would become Icelanders had formed—and created what is said to be the oldest parliament in existence.

Originally independent, Iceland came under rule by Norway during the 1300s AD. The

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domains of Scandinavia, including Iceland at this point, consolidated in the Kalmar Union (1397-1523), but upon the union’s dissolution Iceland came under Danish rule—a dark period in Icelandic history. An independence movement took shape in the mid-nineteenth century, resulting finally in Icelandic sovereignty in December 1918.

Through it all, the Icelanders maintained their national identity, helped in no small way, by their rich folkloric history, mainly in the form of the sagas. The Icelandic sagas are

identity, helped largely by their rich folkloric history, preserved in large part in the Icelandic sagas.

with the Vikings. And the present-day Vikings, I mean Icelanders, are doing right by undertaking multiple reforestation projects on the island.

Iceland’s unusual landscape has not gone unnoticed by TV and film directors. The barren and dramatic rocky settings and ice fields—not to mention the ever-changing weather—have played a part in many a media production, with a supporting role played by the unusual seasonal light that occurs at Iceland’s high latitude. The fictional James Bond has plied his trade in Iceland on two cinematic occasions; Game of Thrones was filmed at many locations, as were parts

The northern lights (top) are best viewed away from city lights and during the colder months from September to April. Mounted riders approach the Skógafoss, just north of the Ring Road west of Vík.The Reynisdrangar sea stacks (below) sit adjacent to a notable black sand beach and the mountain Reynisfjall.

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stories told in both poetry and prose, mostly factual, but mythical in places, about Icelandic families, culture, and society, from the time of Iceland’s settlement by the Norse to the early eleventh century. The stories endured orally until written down in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries as a collection of hand-scribed and illustrated manuscripts. The stories are published currently in various forms for public consumption, including translations into English. The Árni Magnússon Institute for Icelandic Studies in Reykjavik conducts ongoing research on the Icelandic sagas, and the Saga Museum, also in Reykjavik and open to the public, features waxwork recreations of a number of events described in the sagas.

Visitors quickly and happily note that, despite the name, not all of Iceland is covered in ice. Neither is it, unhappily, covered with trees. The lack of trees certainly helps in the creation of otherworldly images for your photo collection, but—why no trees?

Was it always like that? Quick answer: No, it was not always like that and there are trees if you look in the right places. Iceland is not alone in having landscapes that are the result of deforestation, a practice that has for millennia, in places around the world, provided timber for building and heat, and land for crops and grazing. As lands were populated (by Vikings in the case of Iceland), the trees had to make way.

But some parts of Iceland have volcanic overlay that is not broken down enough to support trees, so not all the blame rests

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The Icelanders have maintained their national

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The Skógafoss might look just a bit familiar, having appeared in many media productions, but is nonetheless worthy of a trip up the 527 steps for a view from the top.

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Ice cave tours in the Vatnajökull glacier are conducted from the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon.

of the Star Wars movies. The characters Lara Croft, Batman, and Joseph Cooper (of Interstellar), among others, also found themselves being filmed in Iceland.

Hardly otherworldly themselves, today’s Icelanders are a warm and welcoming people. With Reykjavik as your welcome mat you will find a land of modern conveniences, the latest technology, and an appreciation for the tourists who are responsible for a significant portion, some 33 percent, of Iceland’s gross domestic product. Though tourism declined during COVID, it is strongly rebounding.

As for the customs you are likely to encounter, expect the Icelanders to be brightening up the dark winter months with the nationally celebrated holiday Þorrablót.

With origins in the old pagan calendar,

The Jökulsárlón Lagoon transports icebergs from the Breiðamerkursandur Glacier, depositing some of them (above) on the dark sands of Diamond Beach.

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Þorrablót begins on the first Friday after January 19 when families gather for traditional food and drink and merrymaking. There is food and drink aplenty again as Icelanders hold a three-day foodcentric celebration ending on Ash Wednesday, February 14th in 2024. The final day includes an Icelandic form of trick-or-treating for kids.

A RING ROAD ROAD TRIP Your Iceland Ring Road adventure begins at the Keflavik International Airport, some 30 miles from Reykjavik. Rental cars are available for pickup at the airport or in Reykjavik. If picking up in Reykjavik, use any of several options to transfer from the airport to the city or directly to your hotel.

Whether your visit to Iceland includes time in the capital city or not, your Ring Road road trip will be all about exploring the country’s rural and natural wonders.

So off you go on Iceland Route 1, the Ring Road, but wait—you may want to include a swing onto the Golden Circle route, not officially part of the Ring Road, but very popular as a one-day excursion from Reykjavik. Head northeast for Thingvellir (þingvellir) National Park first, then visit Geysir and the magnificent Gullfoss. After stopping at the Skálholt Cathedral and the crater lake at Kerid, head south and onto Route 1 to Selfoss to start your counterclockwise voyage on the Ring Road. In your Iceland trip planning you will discover that there are hundreds of scenic and interesting spots along the Ring Road worthy of a stop. We can’t list all of them here, but hopefully enough to whet your appetite.

Starting on the Ring Road from Reykjavík (if you are skipping the Golden Circle option) your first stop should be Hveragerði, where you’ll find the Reykjafoss and a geothermal park. To the north of town is the Reykjadalur Valley with its relatively laconic Djúpagilsfoss, in a setting that includes a river with warm pools of differing temperatures.

On your way to the south coast you will pass the Lava Center, a big, modern, interactive, lava-experience museum. If you are an IMAX type of person, you will want to stop. Further along you’ll encounter one of Iceland’s must-see falls, the Seljalandfoss.

This is because you can view the 200-foot falls from a mossy cavern that goes behind the falls. Don your rain gear! Continuing on Route 1, and stopping just before Vík, you will view the thundering Skógafoss. It

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well. Another side trip, north from Egilsstaðir, takes you to seaside Borgarfjörður eystri, where boardwalks help you to view nesting puffins and where you’ll view the dramatically stark Dyrfjöll peak.

Continuing west across the top of the island on the Ring Road, the lineup of Icelandic wonders you’ll encounter starts with the powerful Dettifoss. Your approach over a longish washboard road at the upper level yields your first clue to the fall’s presence—a cloud of mist rising, apparently, from the ground. Following on, the Ring Road will take you to the geothermal area of Hverir, a must stop for those wishing to stare at bubbling mud and breathe in sulphuric scented wisps from the fumeroles—as well as enjoy the otherworldly colors and textures of the site. On May 25, 2024, runners will circle the nearby Lake Mývatn, running possibly to keep the abundant midges (for which the lake is named!) from alighting. It’s the annual Mývatn Marathon. Just off the Ring Road, 20 or so miles from Mývatn, the 111-mile long Skjálfandafljót River plunges over the broad shoulders of the Goðafoss, looking to my eyes a bit like a miniature Niagara Falls.

Akureyri is Iceland’s second city—the

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might look just a bit familiar, having appeared in many media productions, but is nonetheless worthy of a trip up the 527 steps for a view from the top.

Above the village of Vík, a glacier on the slopes of the Katla volcano has made churchgoers out of the town’s population.

To pray? Well, maybe. But should Katla suddenly heat up and melt the glacier, the townsfolk will receive a warning to head for the church—the highest nearby point and above the predicted flood level of the glacial melt. Make Vík your home base for viewing the legend-cloaked Reynisdragnar sea stacks, the black sand beach, and, in summer, the local puffin population.

Favored by Iceland’s earliest inhabitants, the coastal part of present-day Vatnajökull National Park is home to dramatic glacial-carved landscapes and the Svartifoss, framed by majestic black basaltic columns. (I can hear that shutter clicking!) The nearby Jökulsárlón Lagoon is filled with small icebergs from the Breiðamerkursandur glacier, which itself, in colder months, is the place for popular ice cave tours. Diamond-like bergs rest photogenically on the lagoon’s black sand shore near the sea.

Route 1 going east traces the dramatic shore of the region known as the East Fjords where mountains claw at the sea, creating a memorable landscape of rocky slopes, grassy lowlands, and, of course, water. Arriving in Egilsstaðir, you will find plenty of lodging possibilities. A side trip to the south takes you to a notable Icelandic forest, the Hallormsstaðaskógur, along the shore of the wide Lagarfljót River. Similar in some ways to Loch Ness in appearance, the waters hide their own legendary Icelandic creature as

Hverir (left) is a hotbed of geothermal activity. Visitors will view bubbling mud and steam clouds and smell the sulphuric fumeroles while taking in the surreal landscape. Ample signs of arboreal life (below) are found at the Hallormsstaðaskógur forest along the Lagarfljot River.

A rainbow floats above the cascading waters of the Goðafoss (bottom).

Winter 2023 ODYSSEY 13

HOSPITAL INDEMNITY

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Provided for Chevron Auto Club Members.

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FOR DETAILS CALL 1-800-222-0585 This policy provides limited accident-only benefits. This policy has exclusions, limitations, and terms under which the policy may be continued in force or discontinued. See the plan description for more complete details of coverage.

Chevron Auto Club Hospital Indemnity — Accident Benefit Plan is underwritten

by Life Insurance Company of North America.

GAGLIARDI PHOTOGRAPHY/ SHUTTERSTOCK

North of Reykjavík lies the town of Borgarnes.The sagathemed Settlement Center restaurant is housed in the two buildings at the lower right in the photo.

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largest outside the Reykjavík metroplex. It is the base for excursions to Grimsey Island and Game of Thrones tours. The city of nearly 20,000 is host to the Arctic Open golf tournament on the summer solstice each year. You will find a colorful assortment of museums, with the city’s eponymous museum featuring local history and heritage with collections of things from toys to maps.

There is also an aviation museum, a motor-

cycle museum, and an industry museum housing collections of tools used and products manufactured in the city’s past.

On that same general theme, the outstanding Glaumbær Farm & Museum, some 40 miles further along the Ring Road and five miles to the north, showcases Iceland’s farming heritage with traditional turf houses preserved and on display.

Accessible from the Ring Road heading south toward Reykjavík is the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. The Kirkjufellsfoss is a feature of this side trip along with the iconic, snowcapped Snæfellsjökull at the peninsula’s west end.Visit the picturesque fishing village of Stykkishólmur, dine on excellent seafood, including, if you choose, the region’s famous shark, or descend into the Vatnshellir lava tube cave. A loop through the peninsula will take you conveniently to Borgarnes, but unless you head back north at the Ring Road, you will miss the unusual double volcanic craters at Grábrókargígar.

The site is well-developed for hiking up and into the dormant crater. If you fancy a look at flowing lava, as of 2023 there is

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Traditional turf houses (left) from Iceland’s past are preserved at the Glaumbær Farm and Museum, just north of the Ring Road at Varmahlíð.

The Kirkjufell (below) dominates this view on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula with the Kirkjufellsfoss to the left.

an active volcano, Fagradalsfjall, at the southwest of Iceland, about 85 miles from Reykjavík.

Finally, a stop in the fishing village of Borgarnes will fill you in on the Icelandic sagas—at least in part. The Settlement Center there is a saga-themed restaurant housed in two of Borgarnes’s oldest buildings. Exhibits on Icelandic history and the

Egil’s Saga are featured.

There are many points of interest along Iceland’s Route 1 Ring Road, and many more elsewhere across the land. A few Ring Road highlights have been covered here.

Know that people visiting Iceland find that planning the trip is a significant part of the fun, so with this article and research of your own—let the excitement begin!

If you are planning a trip to Iceland, there are many online sources of information—some are personal accounts of travel on the island, and many are companies large and small offering services, from vehicle rentals to lodging to tours. There is no way to sort out and present all the possibilities, most of them commercial in nature, on a magazine page. But as a starting point we can recommend an online visit to the Visit Iceland website at https://visiticeland.com. The expansive site, operated by Business Iceland, is the official travel and tourism site for Iceland. It is not commercial in nature, but commercial interests are listed (such as airlines, tour companies, lodgings, etc.) in a manner that is, shall we say, reasonable and forthright.

On this site you will find headings such as “Flights to Iceland,” “Arrival in Iceland,” and “Getting Around Iceland: Transport for Independent Travelers,” the latter covering the generalities of vehicle rental, as well as public transportation. There is even a link for an app that aids in parking in Reykjavik.

General information and recommendations on what to see and do on an Iceland visit are covered in sections such as: “Geography of Iceland,” “The Northern Lights,” “Volcanic Activity,” and the best routes to take around the island.

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I N F O R M A T I O N F O R T R AV E L E R S

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“Scenic Drives” is compiled by

CHAITHANYA KRISHNAN SHUTTERSTOCK

the staff of ODYSSEY.

SCENIC DRIVES

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and Ponderosa pine of the Deschutes National Forest. Hiking, biking, and water activities can be found all along this historic route. Although closed during winter, except for Mt. Bachelor skiing, it is open generally from mid-May to late October.

Always check the opening schedule before arriving.

Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway, MA Originally part of the network of footpaths used by Native Americans as hunting and trade routes (dating back 10,000 years), the paved byway, located in northwestern Massachusetts, largely follows Route 2. The Mohawk Trail was, from the start, meant to be a scenic drive when the road was dedicated in 1914– and officially designated in 1953. As the road winds through forest land–yes, fall foliage–and

Cascades Lakes Scenic Byway, OR

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Along what is now Forest Route 46, the volcanic and glacier activities that took place here millions of years ago have left in their wake towering peaks, natural lava dams and caves, expansive

flower-filled meadows, and over a dozen crystal-clear lakes— leaving this 66-mile route with a diverse array of scenery.

Seemingly, a lake appears around every bend in the road, with each lake unique, from the shallow 10-foot-deep Devil’s Lake to the 90-foot-deep Davis Lake surrounded by rock formations 16 ODYSSEY Winter 2023

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Highway 61 follows the beautiful shoreline of Lake Superior (the largest fresh-water lake anywhere) all the way to the Canadian border. Covering 153 miles, there are no fewer than eight state parks along the route, and, of course, the fall foliage season is ripe with color. Starting at Duluth’s Maritime Visitor Center, you’ll gain an appreciation of the maritime history of the region, and watch massive cargo ships glide under the iconic Aerial Lift Bridge. Just 46 miles from Duluth, take the turnoff to see the unique Split Rock Lighthouse complex completed in 1910. Along the route there are numerous small towns and villages to explore, hiking trails and winter sports trails, mesmerizing rock formations, and waterfalls.

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North Shore Scenic Drive, MN

small towns, criss-crossing five rivers, it creates a hairpin turn like no other. The river valleys are lush and beautiful any time of year, but especially in the fall. There are a few famous overlooks, such as Whitcomb Summit, and Greylock Mountain on route 8, that you want to make sure are on your itinerary.

There are plenty of amenities along the way including restaurants, coffee shops, farmers markets, and even a well-known art museum. Mid-way on the 66-mile byway, walking the Bridge of Flowers, originally a trolley bridge over the Deerfield River in downtown Shelburne Falls, is a favorite passtime. From mountain tops and riverside valleys, farmland and forests, to hiking and river adventures, the Mohawk Trail Scenic Byway offers a range of scenic views and activities.

Scenic 30-A, FL Bracketed on the west end by Topsail Hill Preserve State Park and on the east end by Deer Lake State Park, the 18.5 miles of Scenic 30-A go beyond the famous sugary-white sand beaches

aking a scenic drive is a great way to see our vast country one road at a time.

There is an abundance of routes to choose from—something in every state. We’ve chosen a few for you to consider. The Scenic America website has a useful listing of designated scenic drives in every state at www.scenic.org > Byway Maps by State.

thousands of years. The driving route now closely follows much of that famous route. Along the way are numerous hiking trails and easy historic walks. Intentionally, there are no billboards, commercial traffic, or food services along the parkway itself—meant to preserve the scenery. However, there are hundreds of towns just off the route that offer everything desired. It is a two-lane road with well-placed turnouts that include interpretive signs that highlight the history and natural surroundings of each section. There are also three campgrounds along the way for visitors who wish to cover a larger section, or all, of the trace. The National Park Service manages the environs of this beautiful parkway, and on their website you will find general information, and fall foliage routes mapped out for each state.

on the gulf. There are thirteen charming little beach towns to explore, and several spur roads along 30-A that lead to sand dunes, rare dune lakes, wetlands, five state parks, and historic sites. The parks are home to egrets, deer, foxes, herons, tortoises, and other wildlife. The deep blue color of Deer Lake stands out against the emerald-green water of the Gulf of Mexico. On the ocean side of the road, you can observe sea turtles when they come to the gulf shore to nest in late spring and summer. Take a hike, or bike, through Point Washington State Forest, at the 395 turnoff, where trails run through a sandhill ecosystem with rare plant and animal species, and the largest stand of Curtiss’ Sandgrass in the state. Don’t miss a stroll on the beach, but leave time for the rest of the attractions and scenery.

This 33-mile byway is packed with picture-perfect scenes of

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Although the famous Natchez Trace Parkway is a whopping 444 miles long—covering almost the full diagonal length of Mississippi, a snippet of northwest Alabama, and on to the outskirts of Nashville, Tennessee—there are many smaller sections within each state that make great one-day drives. A historic travel corridor used by Native Americans, and later by settlers, the Natchez Trace has been walked for

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Natchez Trace Parkway, MS, AL, TN

Meeting of the Great Rivers National Scenic Byway, IL

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forested limestone bluffs, rolling hills, the confluences of the Mississippi River with the Missouri and the Illinois rivers, along with numerous historical sites and towns. On a ribbon of land between two bluffs along the Mississippi River, the entirety of the Village of Elsah, with its stone houses, historic buildings, and lush vegetation, appears on the National Registry of Historic Places. Near the confluence of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers is a classic riverside town, Grafton, and the Pere Marquette State Park, with great views of the river from its trails. Near the town of Alton, with its historic homes and antique shops, lies the Great Rivers Museum and the modern Melvin Price Locks and Dam system, which is open for tours.

In the town of Hartford, near the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, is the Lewis & Clark Confluence Tower for spectacular viewing of the rivers. This byway covers a lot of history along with the impressive scenery.

Winter 2023 ODYSSEY 17

BULLETIN

T R A V E L

New and noteworthy items and events. Check them out!

Compiled by the editorial staff of ODYSSEY

Sunbuster

A Classic Improved

Don’t let a nasty sunburn ruin a perfectly good day at the beach. Take along the LLBean popup Sunbuster Folding Shelter that sets up in seconds, with a UPF rating of 50+, flaps for privacy, and a carry bag for easy portability.

Approx. $100-140. www.llbean.com.

REI has used its exclusive x-web technology to make the classic camping chair design more comfortable—the Skyward Chair. Breathable mesh back, cup holder, cinchable pocket to hold valuables, and carrybag make it travel-ready.

Approx. $60. www.rei.com.

Quality Sounds You like the wireless AirPods or headphones you bought for a reason; now with this portable bluetooth adaptor you can use headphones on airplanes, in the gym, or anywhere you would find an audio headphone jack. AirFly from Twelve South turns any headphone jack into a bluetooth device.

Approx. $35-65. www.twelvesouth.com.

Protection x 2 It is a good idea while traveling to keep your credit cards and documents safe, but handy.

The TagsMate passport holder holds cash and cards, with RFID protection, and a pouch for an Air Tag that helps to facilitate a speedy return if lost or stolen. Approx. $36. https://tags-mate.com.

Locks in Odors

No Judgement

STNKY Bags

Eating in the car can be a choice or a necessity, but this food tray that attaches via your car’s cup holder can make food more appealing and help keep your car clean too.

Bon appétit! SodaRide Car Tray. Approx. $34.

Order online at: www.amazon.com.

trap odor from dirty clothes in the laundry bag so your clean clothes will stay smelling fresh in your suitcase.

The mesh lining allows you to just turn the bag inside out and throw the whole bag, with clothes inside, into the wash. Approx. $30. www.stnky.us.

“Paris 1874: The Impressionist Moment”

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It’s the 150th anniversary of the first impressionist exhibition in Paris. You don’t have to know much about art history to know that there was a sea change in the art world when modernism broke through to the public. In opposition to the government-sanctioned Paris Salon annual exhibit, where certain artists were not welcomed, the “Anonymous Society” mounted its first exhibition with entries from Monet, Renoir, Degas, Pissarro, Cézanne, Sisley, Morisot, and others. The current exhibit, with 130 paintings, works on paper, prints, and sculptures, recreates the atmosphere, and highlights the historical events surrounding the Impressionists’ original exhibit and its future relevance.

Musée d’Orsay, Paris, France, March 25-July 14, 2024 and National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC, Sept. 8, 2024-Jan. 19, 2025. For more information visit www.nga.gov.

18 ODYSSEY Winter 2023

Every National Park Is Here

No Pins Needed The perfect travel clothesline with a 6-foot, triplebraided, stretchy design allows wet clothes to be securely hung in all manner of locations while traveling—just find two attachable points. Approx. $15 at Rick Steves’ Europe. www.ricksteves.com > shop.

Light Blocker Manta contoured sleep masks are designed to block 100% of light, be comfortable, and eliminate eye pressure with adjustable eye socket pads. Various configurations include a weighted mask, a side-sleeper mask, and bluetooth compatible mask. From $35 to $140. www.mantasleep.com.

Blanket Protection No more refills of bulky fire extinguishers that many people don’t know how to use anyway. The Prepared Hero fire blanket puts out grill or camp fires in two easy steps that are intuitive. It never expires, so leave it in your

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Nightjet Trains

Smart phones at the ready—over 400 national parks with maps, tours, accessibility info and more, are at your fingertips. Everything you need to plan a trip, or check-up on vital info while visiting any of these national parks, can be found using the app. No cell signal? You can download info in advance to use while in the park. The curated information includes substantial input from park Rangers and staff who know the parks well.

The app is free and can be found at the Apple Store and Google Play. www.nps.gov.

car for easy access. Approx. $30. For more information visit: www.preparedhero.com.

Puffy Warmth The comfy warmth of a sleeping bag in the convenience of a wrap-around blanket.

Artist-designed, in a multitude of colors, the blankets are not only water resistant, but come with a Cape Clip® to keep the blanket in place while sitting or standing. Also included is a stuff sack for packing.

Starting at $85. Puffy Blanket by Rumpl®.To order, visit website at www.rumpl.com.

Portable Inflation Battery-powered tire inflators are great, but to be truly portable look for a unit with two power supply modes. This one has a 20V rechargeable battery, and a 12V adaptor that can operate from the vehicle’s 12V supply.

The Avid Power Cordless Tire Inflator has a battery, auto shutoff, valve adapters, and a carry case included.

Approx. $70 w/battery.

Unit can be ordered online from www.amazon.com.

Sounds exiting, and it is.

Along with the ever-popular Eurail Pass, you can get a discount on certain night trains such as the OBB Nightjet, (which travels between cities in Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Switzerland, and more) while you sleep in your private sleeping pod.

There are still many overnight trains that have the standard overnight sleeping couchetes, many handsomely upgraded, but the latest iteration has gone truly upscale.

Sleeping pods can be booked for two or three people, and for the first time, solo travelers. No more curtains—these comparments have walls, and a locking door. The newest compartments even include a bathroom with shower.

Hotel touches such as welcome drink, fully made beds, call system for attendants, wake-up calls, and an à la carte breakfast have been added to deluxe reservations.

Reservations are required and the extra fees are in addition to your Eurail Pass. You can book travel through Eurail, or directly with OBB and still receive the discounted rate.

Depending on your itinerary, European night train travel has always been a great way to accommodate multiple destinations while saving an extra hotel stay. The train system in Europe has always been good, and now the train companies and municipalities have upgraded and reinvented the standard night train—to wow!

For more information visit www.eurail.com.

SIMLINGER/SHUTTERSTOCK

Winter 2023 ODYSSEY 19

DESTINATION: CHILL

by Hayden Riley

PATRICK LYNCH/ SHUTTERSTOCK

A wetsuit-clad surfer (above) rides a wave in the waters off Santa Cruz.The wooden roller coaster, Giant Dipper, at Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk (above right) has thrilled park-goers since 1924. Lifeguard stations (below) dot the beaches of Santa Cruz County.

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eparated by mountains from bustling San Jose and tech-central

Silicon Valley, Santa Cruz has encapsulated its small-town agrarian feel and beach town bonafides. Nature lovers are drawn to Santa Cruz, not only by the sea, but by the towering old-growth redwoods and hikes in dense forest—just a short distance from the beach zones of downtown Santa Cruz and the famous family-friendly boardwalk.

Santa Cruz County boasts 29 miles of gorgeous coastline (with almost as many gorgeous beaches), and countless miles of hiking and biking trails spread throughout the nine state parks in the county. Farmers markets, family farms, and mountain vineyards, open to the public, draw foodies beyond the beach for a little something extra. Countywide fairs, festivals, and sporting events are plentiful and well attended, as are programs offered at the University of California, Santa Cruz campus just a short sprint from downtown. A true vacation destination for almost anyone, this is a touristfriendly town—pick a date, pick a venue, and dive right in.

Mission Santa Cruz, the twelfth in the chain of

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California missions, was dedicated in 1791. The territory, however, had been inhabited for over 12,000 years, and tribes of the Ohlone Native American people lived here for

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CA

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millennia before the Spaniards arrived. Though the ill-fated Mission Santa Cruz did not prosper, the town eventually attracted enough residents to this hospitable and stunning section of the California coastline that it became one of the original twenty-seven counties of California in 1850. Toughing it out through social upheavals, natural disasters, and an ever changing shoreline, Santa Cruz remains a unique calling for residents and tourists who enjoy the chill vibe in this laid-back community.

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Laid-back, but with a history of activism that helped shape the 276 miles of the magnificent Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary.

Where the downtown area meets the sea, the colorful, boisterous Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk is a popular attraction, and has

entrepreneurs began building public bathhouses (salt water swimming complexes) near the mouth of the San Lorenzo River, which weaves through the city on its way to the ocean. The bathhouses immediately started attracting vacationers who believed in the bene-

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been since the day it opened in 1907. As early as the 1860s, local

fits of swimming and relaxing in salt water. As lodging, restaurants, and shops sprang up around the bathhouses, it didn’t take too much imagination on the part of local promoter extraordinaire Fred Swanton to envision a “Coney Island of the West,” in Santa Cruz.

Swanton’s Neptune Casino opened in 1906, lasting only two years before a devastating fire razed the building—but with the help of generous financing, and a determined attitude, the casino and

Lighthouse Point (top left), adjacent to Steamer Lane surf break, is the premier surf break off West Cliff Drive. A steam train (top right) takes passengers on a trip through the redwoods from Roaring Camp. Monarch butterflies (above center) congregate at Monarch Grove near the Natural Bridges park. Fresh, organic fare can be found at farmers markets throughout Santa Cruz County.

Winter 2023 ODYSSEY 21

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swimming facilities were quickly rebuilt by Swanton and opened within a year. The stage was set, and the boardwalk took shape, with new attractions being added every year. The first roller coaster, the L.A. Thompson Scenic Railway ride, started rolling in 1908. The elaborately carved figures of the Looff Carousel were put into service in 1911, and the Giant Dipper wooden roller coaster attracted thrill seekers as early as 1924.

Today, the boardwalk offers over 40 rides and attractions, all manner of carnival and arcade games, miniature golf, laser tag, a museum of the boardwalk’s history, a conference center,

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Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf (top) stretches an impressive half mile into the ocean.

A great place to catch the sunset or a glimpse of whales passing by. Surfers (above) of all ages are drawn to the waves off Santa Cruz. From special viewing portals, sea lions (right) can be viewed resting on the lower timbers of the Santa Cruz wharf.

22 ODYSSEY Winter 2023

and, of course, saltwater taffy made on site. The Giant Dipper, having hosted over 60 million riders, and the Looff Carousel are still in service today and are listed on the National Historic Landmarks registry.

Roller coaster aficionados include the Giant Dipper on their bucket list!

Don’t call it a pier, it’s a wharf. The Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf, aka Santa Cruz Wharf, extends a half mile out into the sea.

Originally built for vessels to load, and unload, goods and disembark passengers, the wharf has been in use since 1914. Today, the wharf is a popular tourist destination and hosts all kinds of activities and services. What better way to enjoy fresh seafood than on the wharf at Stagnaro Bros. Restaurant or seafood market that has been offering fresh seafood since 1937. As one of seven restaurants on the wharf, you have a choice of menus and great views. There are gift shops, boat and kayak rentals, and the lifeguard headquarters, all on the planks. Towards the end of the wharf are the sea lion viewing areas, fenced off portals, that let you view the sea lions below perched on the cross beams. Look back towards the Boardwalk for a lasting impression of just how extensive and colorful the Boardwalk really is, and look out to sea to maybe catch a migrating whale passing by.

The Wharf hosts a variety of events, but one that makes me smile is the “Woodies on the Wharf ” event, the fourth Saturday in June, where woody-lovers from hither and yon display their classic beach cars. Like the cars, the crowd is showing their age a little, but seeing these toy-model cars come to life

West Cliff Drive is home to the small, but informative Surfing Museum located next to the popular Steamer Lane surf spot, about halfway to Natural Bridges State Park.

of November, you can catch the O’Neill Cold Water Classic surfing series as it takes over Steamer Lane for the event. Nearby Cowell Beach, where the waves and terrain are gentler, plays host to surfing schools for those new to the sport—all ages are welcome to give it a try.

Legend has it that surfing got its start on the U.S. mainland in 1885 when three Hawaiian princes, studying at a military academy in San Mateo, had redwood planks

Surfers (below) head for the waves at Steamer Lane, a popular break located seaward from West Cliff Drive. Nearby, also on West Cliff Drive, is the Surf Museum (bottom), featuring items documenting the history of surfing activity at Santa Cruz.

shaped for surfing and hit the waves at Santa Cruz. However, Olympic swimmer, Duke Kahanamoku, is generally credited with truly popularizing the sport by promoting surfing exhibitions on both coasts of the U.S. mainland in the early 1900s.

A pioneer of the surfing industry, Jack O’Neill (1923-2017), moved to Santa Cruz in the late 1950s and opened his second (O’Neill) Surf Shop. It may be debatable who actually invented the modern wetsuit, but there’s no debate that O’Neill developed and refined the wetsuit for surfing while growing the O’Neill product line into an international surf brand. The house, where local icon O’Neill lived, is perched

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is fun for all age groups.

A stroll or bike ride on the three-mile paved path (six miles roundtrip) that runs along West Cliff Drive offers great views of the waves crashing against the rocks, experienced surfers testing their skill, sea birds, Seal Rock (with the requisite seals), and a view of stately Victorian homes, colorful beach bungalows, and other abodes across the street where lucky locals get to call home. The path extends from the wharf to Natural Bridges State Beach where you will have a good view of the iconic natural sandstone bridge carved out by eons of waves; where once there were several arches, only one remains. This is also a great destination for tide-pooling as park rangers lead informational tours of the sea life-filled holes in the sandstone ledges—look, but don’t touch! If you drive to the park, there is a picnic area and a visitors center. At the Natural Bridges State Beach Visitor Center, you can sign up for docent-led tours, or self-guided tours, of the annual monarch butterfly over-wintering site, where the butterflies’ colorful wings fill the eucalyptus trees in Monarch Grove (October-February).

Just north of the Natural Bridges State Beach area, via Delaware Avenue, is the recently opened Seymour Marine Discovery Center, the public-facing part of the Long Marine Laboratory that conducts marine research led by professors and students of the University of California, Santa Cruz.

The Center, on a bluff overlooking the bay, offers exhibits, special events and programs, up-to-date research information, a gift shop, touch tanks for the kids and, for the older crowd, in-depth information on the Monterey Bay Sanctuary and its inhabitants.

West Cliff Drive is also home to the small but informative Surfing Museum.

Located next to the popular Steamer Lane surf spot, about halfway on the path to Natural Bridges, the museum traces the history of surfing, surfboards, wetsuits, surfing styles, and the local super stars who contributed to the sport. During the month

Winter 2023 ODYSSEY 23

CHINTLA / SHUTTERSTOCK SCOTTYJ3785/ SHUTTERSTOCK

LEGO19861111/SHUTTERSTOCK

A natural sandstone arch (top) is the main feature of Natural Bridges State Park at the west end of West Cliff Drive. Park rangers assist visitors curious to view the marine life (above) that thrives in the park’s tidepools. Whale watching is a popular activity in Santa Cruz from land (Lighthouse Point and Wilder Ranch Park are good), or tour boat. Gray whales show up DecemberApril, humpback whales AprilNovember, and orcas (right) are usually seen April-May.

on a low oceanside cliff at Pleasure Point, a favorite surfing spot of locals. Definitely worth a visit to watch the action at this location. While the surfers may be very territorial of this surf break while in the water, on land we found them to be super friendly.

Just south of Pleasure Point is the inviting, beachy little resort town of Capitola, known as the oldest beach resort on the West Coast. Take a pleasant stroll along the narrow streets of Capitola Village and Esplanade, where inviting boutique shops ply beach wear and artsy crafts that make perfect souvenirs of your seaside vacation. Time your stroll to pick up delicious pastries and coffee to take to the beach, or head to Zelda’s on the Beach restaurant for a hearty breakfast. The Capitola beach is one of twenty-three inviting beaches along the Santa Cruz coast to choose for an extended beach walk. And, if you like to collect odds and ends on your travels, feel free to pick out a few nice pieces of driftwood to take home—it’s legal.

The Capitola Pier was a long-time fan favorite for taking walks, fishing, or watching the various sea creatures. Lasting over 100 years, the pier was cut in two in January 2023 when a ‘bomb cyclone’ atmospheric river storm hit at high tide, causing punishing waves and flooding throughout the Santa Cruz

24 ODYSSEY Winter 2023

area but especially at Capitola. The town and beach are back in shape, but the beloved pier will not be finished before 2024.

Not to be missed on any trip to Santa Cruz is an excursion into the Santa Cruz Mountains. The Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, close to downtown and mostly spared from the devastating CZU Lightning Complex Fire of 2020, offers numerous hiking and biking trails in the park’s 4,500+ acres and will bring you up close to old- and second-growth coastal redwoods hundreds of years old, and lush fern-lined river banks.

The tallest tree in the park currently is “The Giant” or Fremont’s tree, standing approximately 282 feet tall, 17 feet wide, and 1,500 years old, and is located along the easily accessible Redwood Grove Trail. This is a full-service park with a visitor center, dayuse areas, accessible sites, and camping sites operated by the park.

An all-ages, family-friendly venue next to Cowell Park is a narrow-gauge train ride pulled by one of the antique steam-powered engines that leave from Roaring Camp and Big Trees Railroad station (a re-created logging camp). Train lovers and nature lovers come together here to choose a train that weaves through the redwoods heading up a steep incline to Bear Mountain, or a route that follows the scenic river gorge through Cowell Park down to the Boardwalk. In the 1800s these tracks allowed loggers to transport their lumber out of the mountains; today sightseers get to enjoy the train ride through the forest from a very different perspective. Roaring Camp also hosts a variety of events, from

one featuring Thomas the Tank Engine® to the Brewgrass festival, so check the calendar.

While wildlife viewing, especially whalewatching expeditions, are a big part of the Santa Cruz experience, bird watchers often head to the south end of Santa Cruz county to visit the Watsonville Sloughs, one of the largest remaining wetlands in the state.

Year-round home of the white pelican and others, the marshlands also attract seasonal migratory birds, hosting over 200 species throughout the year. Another bird haven, the UCSC Arboretum and Botanical Garden is a hummingbird paradise where they are attracted by the year-round blossoms in the gardens. But, really, the whole of Santa Cruz County offers numerous birding opportunities, from the mountains to the seashore.

Make no mistake, we found Santa Cruz to be a wallet-friendly destination as it truly does offer a wide array of lodging and food choices for every budget, partly due to its college town roots and laid-back ethos.

You’ll be able to choose your splurge— hotel, food, or sightseeing adventures, or no splurge at all—for your beachside vacation.

Remember, surfing here is a year-round wetsuit-needed type of deal, but it’s all good, as rentals are readily available.

An accessible path (above), takes visitors on a trip through the magnificent redwoods of the Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park. A canyon towhee (right) poses for the camera in the UC Santa Cruz Arboretum and Botanical Garden.

BENJAMIN JACOBS-SCHWARTZ/ SHUTTERSTOCK

Big Basin Redwoods State Park, with some of the tallest and oldest redwoods anywhere, suffered a catastrophic fire in 2020 destroying the park and its 75 miles of trails. While the lush park, including its irreplaceable historic buildings, and nearby small towns were heartbreakingly destroyed in the CZU Lightning Complex wildfire, ninety percent of the old-growth giant redwoods survived. Due to their unique genetic makeup and super thick bark, blackened and scarred, the trees still stand. They are slowly showing signs of new growth and recovery.

To witness a rare forest regeneration in the making, parts of the park trails have reopened for visitors thanks to the tireless hard work of forestry crews and volunteers.

ZACK FRANK/ SHUTTERSTOCK

The CZU Lightning Complex fire

I N F O R M A T I O N F O R T R AV E L E R S Santa Cruz County Visitor Center, 303 Water Street, Santa Cruz 95060. Phone: 800/833-3494.

Visit www.santacruz.org to view online, or request a free print copy, of “Symmetry: Traveler’s Guide” and the “Wildlife Watch Guide,” both well-produced guides.

Roaring Camp and Tall Trees Railroad, 5401 Graham Hill Road, Felton, CA. Online at: www.roaringcamp.com. Open year round, check for times.

Phone: 831/335-4484; Seymour Marine Discovery Center,100 McAllister Way, Santa Cruz, CA 95060. Phone: 831/ 459-3800. Online: www.seymour

center.ucsc.edu. Open year-round, except holidays, from 10 a.m.4 p.m., Tuesday-Sunday. Admission fees: Adults: $12, Seniors $11, Youth (3–17 yrs.) $9, Under 3 free.

Watsonville Wetlands Watch, for birding information, visit: www.wetlandswatch.org.

University of California, Santa Cruz Arboretum & Botanic Garden, half a mile up High Street past the main campus entrance at 115 High Street.

Online: www.arboretum.ucsc.edu.

Open daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m., except holidays. Admission fee: $10 Adults, $8 Seniors, $5 Youth, free for kids under 6. For up-to-date birding, view eBird.org.

Winter 2023 ODYSSEY 25

DAMS MIKKI LANGELIER/SHUTTERSTOCK

B

ridges, skyscrapers, the Statue of Liberty, Mount Rushmore,

the Alamo—they seem to get all the attention. But you know what? Dams are cool, too. “Really,” you say, “dams?” Well, yes, dams. In addition to their obvious utilitarian qualities, the best of America’s most spectacular dams, with their strong yet graceful sweeps of concrete, providing at times impressive white cascades of water, create reservoirs that provide a range of outdoor recreational opportunities. How about fishing, power boating, water skiing, camping, canoeing and kayaking, paddle boarding, and even wind surfing? Or just relaxing at a cabin near the shore. Several of our famous dams provide tours Mist shrouds the Diablo Dam (above) that impounds the Skagit River in Washington, 95 miles north of Seattle. Supplying hydroelectric power to the city, the dam was completed in 1936.

The Quabbin Reservoir (below) in Massachusetts is viewed from the Enfield Lookout. Fishing (below right) is a popular recreational activity at many of the dam-created reservoirs.

DOUG M/SHUTTERSTOCK

26 ODYSSEY Winter 2023

along with an informational visitor center, although 9/11 has impacted dam tours at many facilities. A good number of our dams are situated in scenic locations with other sightseeing and recreational opportunities nearby. The design and construction of our varied dams appeal to engineer-types and curious folks of all walks. So for a little vacation variety, what’s not to like about a trip to one or more of this country’s impressive dams? And if you have a STEM-inclined youngster in the family, that’s another reason to make a “learning-vacay” family trip to one or more dams.

MACHO COFFEE/SHUTTERSTOCK

ENGINEERING MARVELS OR WORKS OF ART?

by Ben Vanderhousen AQUEELA_IMAGE/SHUTTERSTOCK

Dateline: Boston, Massachusetts, the early 1800s. Water is needed for the growing city. An aqueduct is built to supply the city with gravity-fed water from a lake some 20 miles from town. Soon, it is not enough. Fast forward all the way to 1939—after several intermediate water sources are employed, the Winsor Dam is completed in central Massachusetts, allowing the Quabbin Reservoir to fill, giving Boston an adequate water supply. Today the Winsor Dam, at 170-feet tall, creates a reservoir that allows, among other recreational activities, fishing in its northern reaches—where a 25-pound, 7-ounce trout set the record in 2016, along with an 11-pound walleye back in 1973. Hiking is popular around the reservoir, with main parking at the south end where a visitor center is located.

Northeast of the visitor center, the Quabbin Observation Tower gives visitors the opportunity to view the Quabbin Reservoir from on high.

Batteries are one way to store electricity, but are not feasible on a large (read power-grid) scale. The Richard B. Russell Dam east of Atlanta on the Georgia-South Carolina state line plays a role in storing electricity. During off-peak hours when power is cheap the dam’s turbines use electricity to run in reverse, pumping water up into the Savannah River’s Richard B.

NIKOLAS VINHAES/SHUTTERSTOCK CHRIS LAWRENCE TRAVEL SHUTTERSTOCK

The Wolf Creek Dam (above) on the Cumberland River in southern Kentucky was completed in 1951. For the Hoover Dam project many artists, designers, and architects were employed. Aesthetic touches apply even to the intake towers (below left). Among the workers employed on the project were the “scalers,” memorialized in a bronze statue (below) at the dam’s site on the Arizona-Nevada border.

The Kentucky Dam and the Barkley Dam team up, so to speak, to create the mega-popular National Recreation Area that is the Land Between the Lakes.

Russell Lake above the dam. When demand for electricity is high, water is released back down, allowing the turbines to spin in power-generating mode. Clever. The milelong earthen dam (with a 2,000-foot concrete center section) was completed in 1985.

The dam rises 210 feet above the downstream Savannah River.

Not all dams are concrete—in fact, the tallest dam in the U.S. is an earthen dam.

More on that later. But at 445 feet in height the earthen Carters Dam in the Blue Ridge Mountains, a bit more than an hour north

GESTALT IMAGERY/ SHUTTERSTOCK

CHRIS DAVIDSON PHOTOGRAPHY/ SHUTTERSTOCK

Beaver Dam (below) in northwest Arkansas is viewed here from the dam’s south overlook. Bison (bottom) reside in the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area bounded by the impoundment of the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers.

28 ODYSSEY Winter 2023

of Atlanta, is impressive. The adjacent generating station operates as does the Richard B. Russell Dam in that it pumps water up during off-peak hours, then reverses and generates power during peak demand hours. Camping, boating, and fishing are popular at Carters Lake, but be careful, the lake is 450 feet deep!

Two hours northeast of Nashville and just over an hour east of Mammoth Caves National Park lies the handsome Wolf Creek Dam. Completed in 1951, the dam rises 258 feet above the downstream Cumberland River and creates Lake Cumberland. Fishing, boating, camping, and a beautiful setting in forested undulating hills make Lake Cumberland

a popular destination for recreation.

Bass fishing, anyone? Bass tournaments, several of them, are a feature of Beaver Lake, the impound behind the Beaver Dam in northwest Arkansas. The Army Corps of Engineers built not only the 228-foot high Beaver Dam (a bit larger than your average beaver’s construct) across the White River, but also infrastructure that provides access to twelve recreation areas with 677 campsites (with electricity), boat launch ramps, and marina facilities. If fishing is not your thing, know that you can visit the lovely and popular Ozarks town of Eureka Springs just nine miles away.

A pair of dams, the Kentucky Dam and the Barkley Dam, team up, so to speak, to create the mega-popular National Recreation Area in Kentucky and Tennessee that is the Land Between the Lakes. The Kentucky Dam and its impounded Kentucky Lake date to 1944. The newer Barkley Dam was completed in 1966, creating Lake Barkley and resulting in the name change from Land Between the Rivers to its present designation.

The Trace, aka the Woodlands Trace, formerly State Route 49, threads north-south the length of the area, giving access to a range of recreational opportunities. There is the Homeplace, an 1850s living history project with periodcostumed docents, a bison range, the Nature Station where native wildlife can be observed, and a planetarium and observatory where you’ll find the central visitor center as well.

Exit the east-west US 68 at the Trace for the visitor center. Another visitor center is at the north end of the park. Many other recreation opportunities are to be found at the park, such as vehicular off-roading, shooting, archery, canoeing, power boating, fishing, hiking, and camping.

From Land Between the Lakes to Rock Island, Illinois is a short six-hour cross-country drive. Why Rock Island? There you will find the Mississippi River’s Lock and Dam 15 and the information and visitor center for all of the 27 locks and dams on the upper Mississippi. The succession of locks and dams transformed commerce on the great river by

Midway to the third of our three Missouri River Winsor Dam dams is the Garrison Dam at Riverdale-Pick City, North Dakota. This earthen dam, completed in 1953, is Wolf Oroville Creek Dam two miles in length and 210 Dam feet high, creating the huge Hoover Lake Sakakawea, 178 miles Dam Richard B. in length. From fishing, to Russell Dam AshforkBainbridge Dam testing your luck at a shoreTheodore line or floating casino, to Carters Roosevelt Dam Dam Kentucky and boating, to canoeing and Beaver Dam Barkley dams kayaking, the lake is a wonderland of recreational opening up sections that were marginally possibilities. Anglers take smallmouth bass, northern pike, chinook salmon, walleye and navigable prior to the construction of the more from the lake. Hikers note that the dams. The dams effectively raised the water lake is at the western end of the North level to safe depths for river traffic. The dams Country Scenic Trail that extends east all the across the river are not spectacular in height way to Vermont—a mere 4,800-mile trek. but earn their stripes as vital utilitarian eleStanding tall on the plains of South ments aiding navigation, controlling flood Dakota, the surge tank towers of the Oahe waters, and supplying hydroelectric power.

Dam, topping 200 feet above the ground, The Army Corps of Engineers operates the strike a commanding profile. To keep the Mississippi River Visitors Center, where lock inflow to the hydroelectric turbines safe and activity can be viewed up close. There also stable, the surge towers collect and release is a museum and gift shop, and tours of the facility are conducted by park rangers. water as required. Many dams employ surge Because the Rock Island Arsenal occupies tanks but at Oahe Dam you can’t miss them! most of the island, security screening is Lake Oahe extends some 230 miles upstream required for visitors. Many of the dams from the 245-foot high earthen dam across on the river have their own visitor facility for viewing the barge traffic in the accompanying lock.

If the dams on the Mississippi River were built mostly to serve commerce, the dams on the Missouri River were built primarily for flood control and hydroelectric power. The Fort Peck, the Garrison, and the Oahe dams, all on the upper Missouri River, average about 230 feet in height. A visit to all three would entail about eight hours on the road.

Closest to the Missouri’s headwaters is the Fort Peck Dam in eastern Montana.

Completed in 1940, the earthen dam remains the largest in the United States. At only 250 feet in height, the dam stretches for over four miles in length, creating Fort Peck Lake with over 1,500 miles of shoreline on the Montana high prairie. Fishing is popular at the lake around which the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge preserves the area’s natural environment. The dam’s colorful history is the subject of several fiction and non-fiction literary works.

Fort Peck Dam Garrison Dam Oahe Dam

Lock and Dam #15

Reconstructed earthen lodges (below) are featured at On-A-Slant Village within the Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park about an hour south of the Garrison Dam in North Dakota.

The lodges were typical of the constructs of the indigenous Mandan tribe.The Oahe Dam (bottom) near Pierre, South Dakota creates the 231-mile long Oahe Reservoir on the Missouri River.

GOOSETERRAIN2/ WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

Grand Coulee Dam Dworshak Dam

NIKONBRONCO/SHUTTERSTOCK

Diablo Dam

SUZANNA PRATT/ SHUTTERSTOCK CRACKERCLIPS STOCK MEDIA/ SHUTERSTOCK

the Missouri River. A visitor center, accessed from a highway that crosses the Missouri River atop the dam, presents information on the dam as well as regional history—a history that is rich in Native American content, and highlights the account of the passage over what now is Lake Oahe by Lewis and Clark in 1804, aided by Sakagawea. All the usual recreational facilities of a large lake are enjoyed by some two million annual visitors.

Traveling west to Orofino, Idaho, visitors will encounter the impressively tall Dworshak Dam on the North Fork of the Clearwater River. At 717 feet in height, the dam is unusual also in that it is a straight rather than curved concrete design. Fish migration issues during the planning stage were solved with the establishment of a $21M fish hatchery above the dam supplying the beautiful and remote Dworshak Reservoir with generous angling possibilities.

A wall of water, namely a portion of the Columbia River, cascades over a large dam in central Washington. As the summer night sky darkens the vertical wall of water becomes the backdrop for “One River, Many Voices,” the laser light show at the Grand Coulee Dam, viewed from an outdoor gallery at the JOSEPH SOHM/ SHUTTERSTOCK

The Columbia River is impounded by a massive amount of concrete comprising the Grand Coulee Dam (top) in central Washington. Enough power is generated by the dam to meet the needs of two million households. Another visitor-friendly facility is the Hoover Dam on the ArizonaNevada border. Visitors can access various parts of the dam complex including the visitor center (above) and the roadway across the top of the dam (right).

30 ODYSSEY Winter 2023

visitor center. Inside the admission-free visitor center, exhibits and displays recount the dam’s colorful history and speak to its engineering and technology. Grand Coulee is one visitor-friendly dam. As you’ll discover, the 550-foot high dam, completed in 1942, is massive—containing enough concrete to build a four-foot wide, four-inch thick sidewalk around the equator—twice! It is the largest hydroelectric producer in the United States, sending electricity to eight states and Canada. Go there. You will be impressed!

It is a bit surprising that the tallest dam in the United States is not a graceful, arched-concrete gravity dam that soars majestically above its downstream channel. The crown goes to the huge, earthen Oroville Dam in the Sierra Nevada foothills of Northern California at 770 feet high. The Feather River fills the dam’s reservoir that then feeds the California Aqueduct, supplying water to southern California.

Completed in 1968, the dam garnered national news coverage when in 2017 unusually heavy “atmospheric river” rains raised the reservoir level to maximum. A damaged main overflow spillway required the emergency spillway to be employed. A growing threat of spillway failure resulted in the precautionary evacuation of towns from Oroville to Marysville some 30 miles below the dam. Water levels subsided in due time.

Needless to say, comprehensive repairs and reinforcements have been made! And the knowledge gained is no doubt useful to dam operators across the nation.

We have only hinted at covering the dams of the U.S., as there are over 90,000 of them in total—of various sizes, of course. So pick a local dam to investigate and enjoy—or head out on the road to one of the “majors!”

STATE OF CALIFORNIA / WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

A very scenic 190-mile drive northwest of Grand Coulee is the picturesque Diablo Dam, sited in a deep canyon on the Skagit River. Completed in 1930, it was, at 389 feet high, the tallest dam in the world at the time. The dam is on the National Register of Historic Places.

Arizona’s Theodore Roosevelt Dam is a product of the 1902 Reclamation Act, passed during Theodore Roosevelt’s presidency. It was built as a showcase component of the government’s commitment to irrigate arid, otherwise arable, lands for agriculture.

Started in 1903 and competed in 1911, the 280-foot high dam was the largest masonry dam in the world. Originally named the Salt River Dam on account of its location, it was renamed in 1959. The government officially entered into the business of selling electricity in 1906, with the Salt River Dam being the first producer. Once listed as a National Historic Landmark, the designation was removed as a result of a 1989-96 renovation.

Concrete now covers the original masonry, and the height of the dam is increased to 357 feet.

In distinct contrast to the Grand Coulee and Roosevelt dams, Arizona’s AshforkBainbridge Steel Dam stands just 42 feet from top to bottom and uses no concrete.

The 1898 dam, now on the National Register of Historic Places, was built by the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe RR using experimental dam engineering. The impounded water was used to top up steam locomotives. The dam is mentioned here for its historical significance—its remote location makes easy access questionable.

Not the tallest, nor the most massive, nor the widest, but arguably the most popular (with seven million visitors per year)—and maybe the most beautiful to boot—is the Hoover Dam on the Colorado River at the Arizona-Nevada border. Built between 1931 and 1936, the dam was the largest concrete structure in the world at the time. Planning, design, and construction were very complicated processes, yet the dam was completed two years ahead of schedule. Tourists are well served at the dam with a visitor center, original exhibit building, and concessions. Tours of the dam and power stations are on offer and there are parking lots on either side of the dam. Viewing opportunities abound from on and around the dam—a walk on the dam is an unforgettable experience!

The nation’s tallest dam, at 770 feet in height, is the Oroville Dam, north of Sacramento, California.The dam’s prominent overflow spillway is visible in the foreground. The Feather River is dammed to create Lake Oroville behind.

I N F O R M A T I O N F O R T R AV E L E R S To help with the locations of dams near you or along a trip route, visit the webpage of the Water Desk (an initiative of the Center for Environmental Journalism at the University of Colorado Boulder). The site publishes an online interactive map that allows readers to search by location for the nearest dam/reservoir. Reservoir size is denoted on the map by the size of the circle on the map. Hovering over the circle gives the name of the dam/reservoir and related statistics. Go to: https://waterdesk.org/multimedia/data/us-reservoirs-ecowest/.

The United States Society on Dams (USSD) is a membership organization for those interested in dams, professionally or otherwise. USSD is the US affiliate to ICOLD, the International Commission on Large Dams.

Some general dam information is accessible free online such as in the site’s “Learning Center > Types of dams” at https://www.ussdams.org/dam-levee-education/overview/typesof-dams/. Valuable information to have before you head out on a dam trip!

Winter 2023 ODYSSEY 31

The Travel Library is compiled by the staff

t h e

o d y s s e y

t r a v e l

of ODYSSEY.

50 States 5000 Ideas National Geographic Partners, 2017, Washington, D.C., 288 pages, softcover, full color, $24.95 ISBN 978-1-4262-1690-9

The tiny house concept is getting a lot of attention these days. You see it covered in numerous magazines, on TV shows, and at the home expos that take place in most cities. So maybe the connection between tiny houses and 50 States 5000 Ideas is not so, so far fetched.

That is to say that this book, with an exceptional number of travel ideas packed between its covers, is in some ways the perfect, single, compact, travel idea resource for the tiny home— arguably eliminating the need for numerous travel books, DVDs, and those old video cassettes. Of course, most of us don’t live in tiny houses. Apartments and typical houses have room for more than a single travel idea book. But why not one book that is a convenient, go-to item when a free long weekend looms on the schedule and you are considering the travel possibilities? And because the ideas are presented by state, you can look for, and consider, trips that are within weekend driving range.

To gauge the potential of the book I first went to sections that covered areas that I am familiar with—trying to wear the hat of a potential visitor. Are the areas covered in a way that gives a good idea of what is on hand? The answer is, yes, but in a slightly qualified way. The “ideas” are definitely there, but the details that you might need to plan an actual visit will require, in most cases, some additional work on your part. Addresses, times of operation, accessibility, etc., are beyond the scope of this book—and understandably so. It is an ‘idea’ book. And it is very good at achieving that intended purpose.

32 ODYSSEY Winter 2023

Classic Car Museums & Attractions

by Michael Milne, 2020, Changes In Longitude Press, 408 pages, softcover, b&w photos, $24.95 ISBN 978-0-9975333-1-6

We love our coffee-table books. Whatever your motor-driven interests are (cars, motorcycles, boats, planes), you probably have one or more glossy, large-format, colorful books that transport you into another world, for a few moments at least. Well, Classic Car Museums & Attractions is, in some ways the opposite of a coffee table book— visually speaking. It’s a serious, exhaustive, black and white compendium of auto-related museums across the U.S. that, nonetheless, is capable of helping to take you into that other (automotive) world—in real time and real space! Just survey the over 300 establishments listed, with descriptions, and plan your trip.

Most every state is represented, grouped into eight sections. Checking out the possibilities in your region is made easy.

The descriptions are subjective, but aptly convey the essence of each museum. The book is a worthwhile tool for the roadtripper with an interest in cars.

Iceland Adventure Travel Map National Geographic Maps, 2022 (data 2019), Evergreen, Colorado, 38” 25” on synthetic paper. $14.95 ISBN 978-1-566-95534-8

Iceland is dense with things to see and places to visit. The country is laced with a network of roads varying in quality from well-maintained paved highways to rutted, washboard, potholed gravel tracks.

They all seem to lead somewhere worth seeing—even if only for their remote, isolated beauty. That is what makes Iceland an attractive destination, especially to the

LIBRARY

traveler who is willing and able to undertake a bit of adventure. Cell phone-based navigation is possible generally but the situation is complicated and constantly evolving. You’ll want to investigate the possible limitations before assuming full use of your smart phone in Iceland.

In any case, it is highly recommended that you have an offline navigation source available, such as a paper map. National Geographic’s Iceland Adventure Travel Map is highly recommended as a foldout “paper” map for several reasons. It is waterproof. (It’s not on real paper, though it acts and feels like it.) You can draw on it with a dri-marker and then erase if you must (Sanford’s Vis-à-vis pens work great). Post-it notes stick well. It does not tear. And last but not least, the map is big, accommodating a great deal of information. Topography is shown in the form of contour lines with light shading. Even with half of Iceland on each side of the sheet, because of the amount of information, the printed elements are small. For example, the map indicates seven levels of road surface, from paved highways to mere tracks. This is great for planning your routes, but can be a challenge to read. A magnifier is a good idea, preferably lighted. So with that, a dri-marker, a pad of sticky notes, and a compass—you will not only be ready to go, but just might find it very hard to get lost!

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**Awarded Awarded as 1,000 Chevron or Texaco Texaco App User each remaining remaining 1,000 1,000 points points after after each each subsequent subsequent purchase purchase at a 1,000 points points in 3 increments increments as follows: follows: first first 1,000 1,000 points points after after creating creating a new new Chevron User Account Account and each participating User Account Account after after earning earning and a maximum of of 25 25 gallons with one vehicle par ticipating station. station. Points Points are arre redeemed redeemed for for discounts discounts on fuel purchases. purchases. Allow Allow up to to 72 72 hours hours for for each each 1,000 1,000 points points to to appear appear in your your User vehicle please per transaction. transaction. Other restrictions restrictions apply.

For more more information, information, o please visit https://www.chevrontexacorewards.com/ https:///www w w.chevrontexacorewards.com/ applyy. For Chevron. rightss rreserved.

REWARDS aree registered trademarks Chevron Intellectual Intellectual Pr Property operty LLC. LLC. ARDS LLockups ockups ar registered tr ademarks ooff Chevron © 22023 023 Che vron. All right eserved. CHEVRON, CHEVRON, TEXACO, TEXACO, and the rrespective espective Logos Logos and REW

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